Olive Press Andalucia Issue 474

THE LIGHT FANTASTIC

Hooray for Hannah

er, 23, who spent much of her childhood living in Spain, pulled off two massive saves in a heart-stopping penalty shootout victory over Spain on Sunday. It allowed the Lionesses to secure back-to-back European Championship titles and earned revenge after Spain beat us in the World Cup two years ago. And if that wasn’t enough, the Birmingham-born

star stunned reporters by giving her post-match interviews in fluent Spanish. Her linguistic skills garnered cheers from fans on both sides of the pitch and went viral online.

With Spanish fans left speechless and English expats swelling with pride, Hampton is being hailed as the ‘bilingual brick wall’ who shut down Spain’s Euro dreams.

The Brummie spent five formative years in Spain, moving there with her teacher parents at age five.

While living in Castellon province, her Continues on Page 3

ON THE RUN

BRITAIN’S most notorious far-right agitator, Tommy Robinson, is on the run – and likely headed back to Spain, the Olive Press can reveal.

The ex-English Defence League (EDL) boss allegedly fled the UK yesterday morning after being filmed (see right) ranting beside an unconscious man at London’s St Pancras station.

The man had been knocked out, with shocking footage later showing blood on the floor and medics trying to resuscitate him.

Robinson, real name Stephen Yaxley Lennon, was heard saying: “You saw him come at me, bruv,” before fleeing.

British Transport Police confirmed the assault and revealed the victim re-

EXCLUSIVE

By Dilip Kuner & Adam Husicka

mains in hospital with serious injuries.

Now, Olive Press sources say Robinson, 42, boarded a flight just hours later and is ‘likely’ returning to Spain, where he’s been based for months.

“Realistically he’s likely to be heading for Alicante where he will start to desperately cobble together his defence,” said the source, who knows him well.

“He could be flying via somewhere else, but he is a creature of habit and he’s got a lot of pals on the Costa Blanca, who protect him.”

He continued: “He’s probably

dumped his phone to throw the authorities off his trail.”

We can reveal Robinson recently stayed in Finestrat, near Benidorm, where he ‘rented’ properties in the Campana Gardens development.

The project is mysteriously linked to Russian investors and promoted by fellow far-right UK watch dealer-turned-influencer Paul Thorpe.

Robinson also spent time in Tenerife, where he ‘stayed in a €1.5 million villa’ near Adeje and later at the exclusive Quinta do Lago resort in Portugal, where he was also based last Christmas.

In fact, Robinson – despite being bankrupt – has used dozens of luxury properties across the Iberian Peninsula as boltholes.

The serial fugitive has repeatedly used Spain and Portugal to escape British legal troubles.

As we reported last year he stayed at a luxury villa in Albir, where he filmed a string of podcasts before socialising

KNOCKOUT: Robinson (in blue) tells fellow traveller ‘He came at me’

with German neo-Nazi Lutz Bachmann in Tenerife.

In another Olive Press expose, we revealed that the stunning €1.5 million property was owned by British fashion mogul Philip Day – the billion-

British far-right thug vanishes after UK assault – and is ‘likely’ coming to Spain

aire behind Edinburgh Woollen Mill and Peacocks.

The Olive Press revealed he used the property as a studio for far-right podcasts, including collaborations with American far-right Proud Boys founder Gavin McInnes. After knocking on the villa, Robinson threatened Olive Press reporters, saying: “See if you like it when I knock on your mum’s door.”

Robinson meanwhile has also lived in Marbella, where he posted from the exclusive Manolo Santana Racquets Club.

He also spent time in Gibraltar, where he was considering living for a while.

The latest incident – and his rapid disappearance – raises fears among locals and officials of yet another round of drama on Spanish soil.

Though the Guardia Civil has not commented, pressure is likely to mount if Robinson attempts to return and use Spain once more as his safe haven. If UK police find sufficient grounds, an Interpol Red Notice could follow.

Pregnant assault

A DRUNK man has been arrested in Gauro for punching his seven-months-pregnant partner and her 12-yearold son during a brutal domestic assault.

Costa shootout

A MAN was injured in a shootout between rival Turkish mafia groups outside an Aldi supermarket near Estepona. The innocent bystander was hit in the arm as 27 shots rang out.

Arrests made

POLICE seized 1.6 tonnes of cocaine from a sailboat near the Azores, dismantling a Torremolinos-based gang that trafficked drugs via Caribbean-Europe sailing routes. Four arrests were made.

Cocaine cargo

SPANISH police seized

1.3 tonnes of cocaine hidden aboard a Malaga-bound cargo ship after narco stowaways tried to offload it mid-voyage. The vessel was intercepted off the Cadiz coast.

WIKI-WAVE

British drug kingpin Brian Charrington - aka the ‘Wikipedia Narco’ - dies before prison fate sealed

ONE of Britain’s most infamous drug traffickers, Brian Charrington, has died on the Costa Blanca – just as Spanish courts were deciding whether to throw him back behind bars.

The 68-year-old, whose life reads like a narco-thriller and even earned him a Wikipedia page, passed away at Marina Baixa Hospital in Villajoyosa, near Benidorm.

The notorious gangster – once worth an estimated £20 million – was awaiting a decision on whether he’d have to serve an eight-year prison sentence over

By Dilip Kuner

a 2013 cocaine haul worth £10 million.

His lawyers were fighting to keep him out of jail on health grounds.

Charrington, a former Middlesbrough car dealer turned international drug lord, rose to infamy alongside Curtis ‘Cocky’ Warren.

The duo shipped hundreds of kilos of cocaine from Venezuela into the UK during the 1990s. He dodged justice for years

Steroids seized

AN ANABOLIC steroids racket has been busted by cops on the Costa del Sol.

Two men, aged 41 and 65, were arrested after an incredible 1.7 million doses in 78,000 packs were seized during raids in Estepona, Marbella, and Ojen.

The steroids had a retail value of over €3 million.

Police stumbled on the trafficking ring when probing mail-order exports of marijuana via courier firms.

One of the shipments was intercepted by police after officers identified the person who was in charge of taking the parcels to despatch companies. He even deployed tracking devices to ensure the product reached its final destination.

DEAD: Crime boss Brian Charrington peace Dad.”

thanks to his role as a police informant, which even caused a 1992 mega-trial to collapse.

Despite being relocated to Australia under witness protection, his visa was soon torn up and he resurfaced in Spain – where he built up links with Moroccan traffickers and apparently continued laundering millions from his Calpe villa. He later moved to Altea.

He was jailed in Germany and France, but kept bouncing back.

His 2013 arrest in Spain, following a multi-agency sting involving SOCA and Ameripol, led to his eventual conviction.

But Spain’s Supreme Court quashed the original verdict, forcing a second trial, where he was again convicted.

Charrington died before the courts could rule on his lawyer’s plea to spare him prison time.

One of his three adult children posted a brief tribute: “Rest in

A family friend told the Olive Press: “He’s been on death's door for some time.

“It was a respiratory thing and he’s been having problems with it for a while.

“He was a heavy smoker, and he also came into contact with asbestos in England many years ago.

“He was quite a grafter and had quite a few jobs so that didn’t help.

“In the end, he had a car business, but clearly realized he could make more money from drugs.”

He added: “He had recently been appealing a sentence for drug smuggling again, and didn’t ever go to prison, so he was able to die at home with his family.”

His wife was living with him, and his parents lived nearby, according to the source.

DOCUMENTARY film maker

Louis Theroux has been spotted in Marbella with a controversial fitness influencer wanted by Surrey Police.

The TV journalist found fame with his highly revealing When Louis Met… series with off-the-wall celebrities, including Paul Daniels, Neil Hamilton and even Jimmy Saville.

Sources told the Olive Press he appears to be repeating the formula with Harrison Sullivan, AKA HStikkytokky, for a Netflix documentary about toxic masculinity.

Sullivan – sometimes likened to Andrew Tate – has become a rising personality thanks to his viral gym videos, bold street interviews, and his unfiltered, brash online persona. The Essex native, 23, is known for showing off his lavish lifestyle, including driving around in supercars and hanging out in mansions in Dubai and the Costa del Sol. He has also been noted for referring to women as ‘things’ and ‘it’ during his ceaseless social media streams.

texts

to

UK &

SPEAKING THE LINGO

playground kickabouts led to a trial at Villarreal FC - where she became a striker whose fluency in Spanish developed alongside her talents.

That early exposure to Spanish football philosophy - tight passing and technical skill - helped shape her style. She credits her ball-playing ability and distribution as strengths rooted in her time in Spain

The 1-1 final had already delivered 120 minutes of drama. But it was penalties where history was written.

After Beth Mead’s early miss, all eyes turned to Hampton – and she didn’t flinch.

Hannah saved back-to-back penalties from Mariona Caldentey and Ballon d’Or winner Aitana Bonmati, giving England the edge.

“Today I played against the country I still call home,” Hampton told Spanish media after the match, flashing a smile and switching seamlessly between languages.

“But my heart’s with England – and I’m so proud of what we’ve done.”

Lioness roar and Guinness galore

TEuro final against Spain could be heard from halfway up the main boulevard of San Pedro Alcantara.

As we made our way towards the echoing chants of Three Lions on a Shirt, we knew this Irish Pub was the place to watch.

Nerves were high at the rickety trestle tables outside, where most were backing England –except for one Spanish family and, of course, the Irish pub owner, who sported a bright red Spain shirt. In true form, we ordered two pints of Guinness and tried to ‘split the G’, which, combined with pre-match ban-

Olive Press reporters Josie Sharp and Olivia Idle joined football fans in San Pedro Alcantara to soak up the sun, stout and soaring drama of the Lionesses' nail-biting clash against Spain

ter, got everyone in the mood.

The pub fell silent as the whistle blew, and then came the groans when Mariona Caldentey scored for Spain in the 25th minute.

In response, we ordered more Guinness

The mood shifted, and the Spaniards, understandably, turned to teasing us with cheeky chants and smirks.

All in good spirits and, in response, we ordered more Guinness – and a mountain of nachos topped with an unexpectedly delicious chilli con carne.

When good old Alessia Russo netted the equaliser in the 57th minute, the crowd erupted. Our cheers echoed through the street. No, the town, confusing and likely

MULLINS IT OVER

THE

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LIFE IN THE UK AND LIFE IN

SPAIN, WRITES CHARLIE MULLINS

horrifying a few passing locals.

As the match wore on, tension mounted. With every pass and missed shot, we clenched our pints tighter, casting nervous glances at the screen.

Extra time meant another Guinness, of course, and as the dreaded penalties approached, fans from both sides looked on nervously.

A roar of relief went up when Salma Paralluelo sent her penalty wide. But just as Chloe Kelly stepped up to seal En gland’s 3-1 win, disaster struck – the screen cut to black. It was

PIMPS, POLITICS AND PENALTIES

Spanish PM caught in steamy slur while Women’s Euros deliver the real drama

IT must be summer in Spain when the man who’s held the country together since 2018 - often by the skin of his teeth - turns up at the Cortes Generales for a day’s hard legislating, only to be accused by the opposition of being a pimp!

Yes, really. Poor old Pedro Sanchez. Just when you thought Spanish politics couldn’t get any more theatrical, along comes a plotline worthy of Shakespeare - or at least a steamy Netflix mini-series. Spain’s Prime Minister and his wife Begoña are being accused of living off the proceeds of prostitution. The opposition claim that Begoña’s late father’s company, Sabiniano, once owned a few brothels and gay saunas.

a warm handshake ahead of the match.

There’s been an official investigation (which found nothing dodgy), but that hasn’t stopped the conspiracy mill grinding on. The couple own a couple of nice homes, so naturally, some are convinced they’re secretly raking it in from sex work. You’ve got to hand it to the opposition - if you’re going to sling mud, sling the juicy stuff. Forget the costof-living crisis, national debt, or the state of public health. No, let’s go straight in with: ‘The PM’s a sex criminal!’ Theatrics like this almost

make you wish the UK Parliament had a little more Spanish flair. At least voters might feel they’re getting their (tax) money’s worth in drama.

Speaking of high drama - what about the Women’s Euros?

Whether you’re Spanish or English, that final was a cracker. No prima donna tantrums, no Z-list celebrity behaviour - just raw talent and proper football. The skill on display would put many top-flight men’s teams to shame.

Sunday’s match wasn’t just great sport - it was played with real spirit, grit, and respect. Every player left it all on the pitch. Someone had to lose (sadly), and although I now call

Spain home, I’ll admit I was still quietly cheering on the Lionesses. And what about the head coach, Sarina Wiegman? With all the money that’s been trousered by foreign supposed super-star coaches over the years in the men’s game, what a legend!

I’m sure all the players will get medals of some kind very soon, but what about the Dutch coach who has masterminded two Euro championships, and got her team to the World Cup final? If ever there was a case for the awarding of an honorary Damehood, Sarina must be a dead-cert!

Well, that’s my deadline made for another week, so I think it’s time for a little siesta. For some reason I seem to have a bit of a headache today! But what a night! What a game!

Charlotte was accompanied by her father, Prince William, who was seen chatting with the Spanish sisters before kick-off. Leonor and Sofia, who both studied at top UK boarding schools, are fluent in English, making conversation easy. Despite Spain’s loss, the Spanish royals were all smiles. After the final, Leonor and Sofia visited the La Roja dressing room to offer their commiserations and praise the team’s performance.

HE bellows of Brits abroad waiting for the Lionesses to emerge at the

THIS is the heartwarming moment royal worlds collided at the Women’s Euro 2025 final in Switzerland, as Princess Charlotte met Spain’s Princess Leonor and Infanta Sofia.

The Spanish royals released photos showing Leonor and Sofia greeting 10-year-old Charlotte with

From front

if the screen forgot the ending.

GREAT NIGHT: Olivia (left) and Josie enjoy the craic

ROYAL APPROVAL: Prince William congratulates the team

Royal encounter

Cops on tour

HOLIDAYMAKERS on the Costa del Sol are doing double takes – as foreign cops in full uniform are spotted patrolling alongside Spain’s own officers.

Two German police from Berlin and a Dutch officer have joined forces with Policia Nacional in Malaga and Torre del Mar, areas hugely popular with their countrymen.

The visiting cops are lending a hand with everything from paperwork to patrolling festivals, beach bars and hotels – even acting as translators and tourist helpers.

It’s part of the ‘European Police Stations’ project, aimed at boosting security and helping tourists feel at home.

“People are pleasantly surprised to see familiar uniforms,” said a Spanish police spokesperson.

End of secrets

Spain to declassify ALL Franco-era documents in landmark victory for human rights campaigners

MORE secrets of the Franco dictatorship are to be brought to light as the government pushes ahead with reforms to the Official Secrets Act.

A proposed law will now lift censorship on all files labelled as ‘top secret’.

The draft bill will apply to all documents classified prior to 1981, which includes the fascist dictatorship of General Franco (1939-1975) and the transition to democracy (1975-1982).

Under the legislation, files labelled as ‘top secret’ will be made public after 45 years, ‘with the possibility of an ex-

IF you’re heading to Malaga this summer, pack more than just sunscreenyou're going to need a new mindset.

Aiming to curb disruptive behaviour, Malaga’s ‘Improve Your Stay’ campaign has just launched a 10-point list of dos and don’ts, with fines for those who don’t comply.

‘Cover up and keep quiet’ are the top instructions on the list, which is plastered across buses, billboards, and social media platforms. The aim is to ease growing tensions between visitors and locals, who claim the city is buckling under the weight of mass tourism.

‘Tips’ include keeping noise down, espe-

By Ben Pawlowski

ceptional and justified extension for a further 15 years’.

Meanwhile, ‘confidential’ texts will take up to nine years, and ‘restricted’ files up to five years.

The measure, which brings secrecy laws in line with the EU, will help shine a light on human rights abuses during the Franco era.

Under the dictatorship, Spain experienced widespread censorship and repression.

The regime tightly controlled the press, literature, film and

Behave yourself!

cially at night, with no shouting or blaring music in residential areas.

On top of that, dress respectfully. Skimpy outfits and bare skin are fine on the beach, but don't strut around town in your beachwear.

Remember that pedestrian areas are off-limits for scooters and bicycles, and use designated bins and toilets.

And locals have had enough of littering, public drunkenness, and other disrespectful behaviour, with fines of up to €750 for infractions.

education, banned dissenting views and promoted its fusion of nationalist, Catholic and fascist ideology.

Opponents were persecuted, with many imprisoned, executed or forced into exile.

Transparency over abuses was further complicated by the subsequent transition to democracy.

The country was guided by the so-called pacto del olvido (‘pact of forgetting’), a nationwide consensus that sought to put a lid on past atrocities to heal deep national wounds.

Now, the socialist-led government of Pedro Sanchez wants to reverse that process of collective amnesia, after signing an agreement with the Basque Nationalist Party (PNV) earlier this year.

Up till now, individuals wanting to unearth files had to request declassification on a case-by-case basis, accompa-

nied by detailed justification. Successive governments have also been reluctant to implement reforms, complaining that declassifying documents represents a massive bureaucratic task.

Once given the green light by the Council of Ministers, the bill will head to Congress where it will be debated before a vote is taken in Congress.

Welcoming Spain

SPAIN has become the EU’s number one destination for asylum seekers after overtaking Germany.

New figures show Spain received 12,800 asylum applications in May, compared to Germany’s 9,900. The shift follows a sharp decline in Syrian asylum claims, previously the largest group in Europe, after the fall of Bashar al-Assad in December.

Spain’s rise is largely driven by Venezuelan migrants fleeing political and economic turmoil, with some reportedly diverted by US immigration crackdowns. Small boat arrivals to the Canary Islands have dropped dramatically in 2025, though 60,000 reached Spain in 2024. Italy is now second with 12,300 applications, followed by France. Overall EU asylum claims dropped 25% year-onyear.

Working hard

SPAIN’S remarkable economic performance shows no sign of slowing down after the country hit its lowest rate of unemployment since 2008

According to the National Statistics Institute (INE), Spain’s unemployment rate has fallen to 10.29%.

It marks a dramatic recovery from 2013, when joblessness peaked at nearly 27%.

The number of people in work has hit a record 22.27 million, with over 500,000 jobs added between April and June, mostly in hospitality, manufacturing and commerce.

Airbnb agreement

AIRBNB has reached an agreement with the Spanish government to remove any tourist listings that do not have a legal registration number.

This agreement was reached after a meeting with Spain's Ministry of Housing in a bid to take more control over the short-term rental and tourism markets.

From August, the American rental giant will submit monthly data on their site's listings.

If a listing does not fulfill the requirements, Airbnb will issue the host a period of 10 working days to resolve any irregularities.

It comes after Spain created a national registry for all shortterm and tourist rentals on July 1.

All property owners marketing short-term or seasonal rentals are now required to obtain a unique registration code via the new ‘One-Stop Shop’ register.

Renters had been given six months since it was mooted.

RESIDENTS were told to stay indoors after a fire broke out at the Costa del Sol Recycling Plant in Mijas yesterday morning.

The emergency services received over 30 calls from locals between 4.30 and 5am about flames seen at Reciclados Mijas.

Residents were advised to close their doors and windows while firefighters worked to extinguish the flames.

The Andalucian emergency agency (EMA) are still working to extinguish the flames as the compost material from the plant produces heavy smoke.

Firefighters from Mijas and Malaga’s provincial brigade, the Guardia Civil and Local Police were all at the scene as we went to press.

A spokesman for the fire brigade insisted there was no risk of the fire spreading and the area had been sealed off.

Toxic fire alarm Wipe the slate clean

MARBELLA could be swapping sunbeds for servers in a bid to become Europe’s digital privacy capital.

Tech company PastWipe has announced plans to open a high-tech AI centre in the resort, focussing on online safety, data protection, and ethical AI. The firm specialises in removing unwanted online content - and now wants Marbella to be its long-term home for research, development, and education.

In hot water

A SCORCHING marine heatwave off Spain and Portugal has sent sea temperatures soaring above 30C – sparking alarm among scientists who warn it could be devastating for marine life.

Waters around Mallorca and the Algarve are up to 5C hotter than usual, making this one of the most extreme early summer heat events the western Med has ever seen.

New AI centre on the Costa del Sol to tackle online privacy and create jobs

By Dilip Kuner

“This is about more than business,” boss Ralph Ehlers told the Olive Press. “It’s about empowering people to reclaim their digital identities.”

He added that Marbella now has a ‘real chance to lead a global shift in responsible AI’.

With demand for privacy tools soaring - more than 2.8 billion people globally want personal data wiped online - the new centre will tackle everything from deepfakes to identity theft. Ehlers says the project is expected to create 20 to 30 jobs in its first year, and includes plans for student training and public

workshops like Cyber Awareness Days.

It will focus on four key areas: AI for data protection, digital literacy, ethical AI R&D, and misinformation and image manipulation detection.

The PastWipe centre will ‘serve as a multi-functional hub’ housing engineers, legal researchers, and analysts, while also offering training programs.

“What Silicon Valley was for semiconductors, Marbella can be for digital privacy,” added Ehlers.

PastWipe is seeking support from Marbella’s council, the Junta, and EU funding bodies.

The plan aligns with Spain’s Digital 2026 Agenda and the EU’s AI & Data Strategy.

THE Junta has approved construction on a key 4.2km stretch of the long-awaited Guadalhorce motorway, aiming to ease traffic chaos near Malaga. The €57 million upgrade will extend the dual carriageway from Campanillas towards Campillos and Ronda, reviving a project mothballed 16 years ago. The road upgrade will run between Cerralba and the Casapalma junction (Pizarra) – a commuter bottleneck plagued by traffic from nearby towns.

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A campaigning, community newspaper, the Olive Press represents the huge expatriate community in Spain with an estimated readership, including the websites, of more than two million people a month.

OPINION

Not wanted here

ONCE again, Tommy Robinson is in flight – and, once again, all signs point to Spain.

The far-right firebrand, whose real name is Stephen Yaxley Lennon, allegedly fled the UK just hours after being filmed next to a seriously injured man at London’s St Pancras station. Now, the Olive Press can confirm he is ‘likely’ holed up somewhere along the Costa Blanca –a region he knows well. Or he will be here soon! Let’s be clear: Robinson is no political dissident. He is a convicted criminal with a documented history of spreading hate, provoking violence and dodging accountability. His rap sheet includes fraud, assault and contempt of court. Yet time and again, he has slipped into Spain, enjoying the sun while escaping the consequences of his actions. Why? Because he knows Spain has been soft on him. From a luxury villa in Albir to rented pads in Finestrat, and podcasts filmed with neo-Nazis in Tenerife, Robinson has used the Iberian Peninsula as his personal hideaway. His connections run deep – from UK influencers to shadowy investors. Enough is enough.

Spain cannot continue to be a convenient bolthole for extremists and criminals.

While the vast majority of British expats are honest and law-abiding, Robinson is neither: He represents a dangerous ideology, one that corrodes democracy and spreads fear. If he is on Spanish soil again, authorities must act decisively. Investigate. Arrest. Deport.

Spain is better than this. We are not a haven for hate, nor a playground for fugitives.

Tommy Robinson may believe he can lie low here once again. But this time, Spain must prove him wrong – for good.

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DON’T BANK ON TEENS

SIXTEEN and seventeen-year-olds will be able to vote in the next UK general election, following a landmark decision by Sir Keir Starmer’s Labour government -marking the biggest expansion of the British electorate in decades.

But while ministers hail it as a step toward greater democratic inclusion, some critics are warning that the UK should look carefully at Spain before assuming young voters will always back the Left.

Deputy Prime Minister Angela Rayner defended the move, saying it will “get democracy back on track” and give teenagers “a stake in our country’s future.” She argued it was unjust that 16-year-olds in England and Northern Ireland are denied voting rights enjoyed by their counterparts in Scotland and Wales.

Writing in The Times, Rayner said: “There are many 16-year-olds across this country who are working, paying taxes, and even serving

By Ben Pawlowski

Labour's youth vote gamble faces stark warning from Spain’s political shift

in the armed forces. Why shouldn’t they be trusted with a vote?”

Yet while Labour appears confident the policy will translate into greater youth support at the ballot box, analysts are pointing to a cautionary tale from Spain - where the Left’s assumptions about young voters have been upended.

Spain’s far-right party Vox has become the most popular choice among voters aged 18 to 24, with over 27% of this group backing the nationalist outfit, according to polling by 40dB. That’s more than Spain’s centre-left PSOE (Labour’s sister party) and its left-wing allies

Top of the cons

MOVE over Pedro Sanchez – there’s a new sheriff in corruption town.

The various scandals engulfing the prime minister have been knocked off the top spot by a new case gripping

This dynamic is not unique to Spain. Similar patterns are emerging across Europe, where disillusioned young men are gravitating toward nationalist and populist movements. Vox’s rapid growth in Spain suggests that political identity among youth is more fluid and less predictably progressive than many on the Left might assume.

Among males aged 18 to 28, nearly onethird say they would vote for the far-right party

combined. By contrast, only 11% of voters aged over 65 support Vox, revealing a generational reversal in political trends. The appeal of Voxknown for its hardline stance on immigration and Spanish identity - is particularly strong among young men. Among males aged 18 to 28, nearly one-third say they would vote for the far-right party. It’s a sign that the populist right is not just a force among older generations but is increasingly resonating with younger voters, especially across social media platforms.

Reform UK leader Nigel Farage has accused Labour of trying to ‘rig’ future elections by expanding the franchise to an estimated 1.6 million young people.

His party, traditionally more popular among older Britons, has recently stepped up its efforts to connect with younger demographics via TikTok and Instagram - mirroring the digital strategy that has helped propel far-right movements in Spain and beyond.

“A recent YouGov poll shows Labour leading among 18-24-year-olds in the UK, with 28%, followed by the Greens (26%), Lib Dems (20%), Conservatives (9%) and Reform UK (8%).

But if Spain’s experience is any guide, those figures may not hold. As online influence and nationalist narratives gain traction with younger voters, Britain could see its own version of the Spanish youth shift - potentially turning Labour’s electoral reform into a double-edged sword. The question facing Labour now is not just whether young people will vote - but who they will vote for. And Spain’s political transformation suggests that age is no longer a reliable predictor of progressive politics.

There’s a new chart topper in Spain’s all time corruption scandals - a €2.2 billion whopper in one year alone… set up by a former treasury chief

By Walter Finch

Spain.

Roll over ERE and Gurtel (ED: some of you will need to look these up), this is a monster

case, which is already taking the attention away from Spain’s beleaguered leader.

The claims centre on former PP finance minister, Cristobal Montoro, who headed the Treasury from 2000 to 2004 and from 2011 to 2018 under former leader Mariano Rajoy. Montoro allegedly exploited his position to helm a network that re -

wrote tax laws to benefit gas companies in exchange for cash in the form of ‘consulting fees’.

Prosecutors estimate his schemes delivered a fiscal windfall – and deprived the Treasury (aka Hacienda) – of roughly €2.2 billion in 2012 alone, while five large conglomerates saved at least €51 million.

Later, from 2014 to 2018, a firm owned by Montoro allegedly acted as a well paid go-between for a string of petroleum giants and pals of his at the Treasury. The parties colluded to reform the tax rules and in return these companies paid out around €50 million timed to coincide with each successive legislative tweak.

phones were tapped for 42 days back in 2021.

The investigation spans the former minister’s two terms in office, first under Jose Maria Aznar and later with Mariano Rajoy, and reaches deep into the heart of the Treasury.

Exploited his position to helm a network that rewrote tax laws

A judge has now indicted Montoro alongside 27 co-conspirators for ‘influence-peddling’ with the aim of lining their own pockets. It comes after judge Ruben Rus ordered that four tele -

Among those charged are eight senior ministry officials accused of drafting or approving the legislation, three successive director generals of taxes, and several ex-partners of Montoro’s firm, Equipo Económico who once held government posts. Prosecutors allege that the petroleum giants channelled payments through Montoro’s consultancy, with some sums coinciding exactly with the years in which favourable reforms were passed. Further down the list are construction and renewables firms that also sought faster payments or lighter levies. The scandal even ensnares

IN THE FRAME: Diego Martin-Abril (above left), Alberto Garcia (above right), while (left) JoseMaria Aznar and Mariano Rajoy

RIGHT LEANING: Youngsters in Spain at a Vox demo

The village that stole the spotlight

THE quiet mountain village of Gaucin has found itself in the spotlight this summer as it becomes the unlikely setting for an international feature film.

The whitewashed streets of the Andalucian pueblo, known more for its artists and writers than film crews, are now at the heart of Magdalena’s Land – a movie that explores themes of authenticity, transformation, and cultural connection.

The multinational cast and crew from Latvia, Gibraltar, the UK and America have descended to not just shoot a movie, but also bring in elements of the pueblo and its people, weaving themselves into the fabric of the local community.

“We all have different accents and I feel this mirrors society and life here in Spain because nowadays families are connected with people from everywhere,” said supporting actress Leilla Satie, praising

The Olive Press went behind the scenes of Magdalena’s Land as an international crew turns a sleepy Gaucin into a cinematic gem

By Olivia Idle

the diversity on set. “It’s a truly organic real-life story.”

Magdalena’s Land is a story of connection between people, places and the paths they have chosen and with eight Gibraltarian actors and leading Latvian star, Rezija Kalnina, playing Magdalena, the diversity on set is the film’s strength.

“The most interesting part of an international team is that all the nationalities have something different – their own way of acting and speaking and that has brought all the nationalities together,” explained producer Guna Stahovska, 51.

After two months of scouting across Andalucia, Latvian-born director, Uldis Cipsts, 51, found his answer in Gaucin describing it as ‘the true Spain with the best scenery and atmosphere in the world’.

From winding mountain roads to centuries-old homes, the village has provided more than just a backdrop for the film.

“Before coming here, everybody said if you shoot in Spain, especially as internationals, the police will come to stop the filming and ask for documents, but this hasn’t been true. Everyone has helped us,” explained Cipsts.

“People even offered to let us shoot in their homes or take their cars! Nowhere else has been as supportive and as easy to make movies.”

A transformational role

Actress, Kalnina, 54, with over 95 roles to her name and a lifetime of theatre behind her, describes her role as ‘nothing short of authentic’.

She said: “It’s a transformational role – it shows how human beings go through life and how we make decisions.”

And she told the Olive Press how fond she is of Gaucin. “You don’t have to hurry here. I love the freedom and you really have time to prepare and get ready for the next scene.”

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While nearly 80,000 people have now registered an account at theolivepress.es, an incredible 2,500 are now paying for our service, with 200 alone signing up over the last month.

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Last issue we handed out two pairs of much sought after tickets for a Robert Plant concert in Granada this week.

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Hacienda itself: Two former bosses, Diego Martin-Abril and Jose Alberto Garcia, face charges for their ‘decisive’ roles, while two senior figures in finance and the state lotteries have been removed from office amid allegations of ‘grave abuse’ of their positions. If it proves to be true, the Montoro case will likely eclipse most others in Spain’s downright disgraceful history of corruption scandals.

SETTING: Gaucin is the set for the filming of Magdelena’s Land (top), with leading actress Rezija Kalnina (top right)

SCANDAL: Montoro is accused of taking cash for ‘consulting fees’

CABLE PLAN

US internet giant Google has announced plans to deploy a massive new cable under the Atlantic ocean linking Spain directly with the United States.

It comes as the tech giant scrambles to meet surging demand from the new, all-conquering tech of artificial intelligence.

The cable, dubbed ‘Sol’, will land in Santander and marks only the second direct telecommunications link between Spain and America.

The project comes with backing from Spain’s Telefonica through its infrastructure arm Telxius, partly owned by Zara founder Amancio Ortega Sol will stretch across the Atlantic from Palm Coast in Florida to connect Spain, the US, Bermuda and the Azores, creating what Google describes as key connectivity hubs that will boost local economies whilst delivering AI benefits to businesses and consumers worldwide.

Jenn Foster | Sales Agent +44 754 796 2069

Jennifer@ERA-Costadelsol.com

Avenida Andalucia 21, 29679, Benahavis, Spain

SPAIN is facing a backlash after awarding Chinese tech giant Huawei a €12.3 million contract to store sensitive judicial wiretaps.

The deal has sparked outrage in both the US and EU, with Washington reportedly reconsidering intelligence-sharing ties

SPYWARE FEAR

with Madrid. US lawmakers fear Huawei’s ties to the Chinese Communist Party could compromise shared secrets, while cybersecurity experts

warn Spain has made a ‘huge mistake’.

Brussels is also alarmed, with MEPs calling the decision risky and irresponsible.

Despite Spain’s Interior Ministry insisting the contract meets national cybersecurity standards, rights group ARTICLE 19 is demanding an urgent review. Critics say Huawei's involvement in EU security undermines years of efforts to limit foreign influence in critical infrastructure.

TAX BACKLASH

SPAIN’S former tax boss has launched a blistering attack on the country’s revenue agency, accusing it of abusing power and targeting wealthy foreigners. Ignacio Ruiz-Jarabo, who led Spain’s tax office (AEAT) from 1998 to 2001, has branded the system 'broken, abusive and dangerously authoritarian'. Writing in Vozpópuli, he said the Hacienda now views citizens 'as prey' and likened it to a 'modern-day feudal power'.

His comments come amid growing backlash over Spain’s treatment of high-earn-

THE nationwide power cut that hit Spain has cost energy giant an estimated €170 million in lost revenues from its refineries and chemical plants.

The April 28 blackout, which plunged much of Spain and parts of France and Portugal into darkness, led to an estimated €100 million in losses across

Ex-tax chief slams Spanish taxman for 'robbing' wealthy Brits and expats

By Ben Pawlowski

ing expats under the so-called Beckham Law – a tax break aimed at attracting foreign professionals. A damning white paper by international law firm Amsterdam & Partners has accused the Hacienda of 'systematic and ongoing violations'

Cash cut

five Repsol refineries. The company also faced a €40 million hit at three chemical plants, insiders said, with smaller power disruptions over the period contributing an additional €30 million in costs.

The blackout affected more than 50 million people and severely disrupted industrial operations across the Iberian Peninsula. While the full financial impact has yet to be calculated, energy sector experts estimate the total losses across industries could reach between €2 billion and €4 billion.

and 'malicious audits' that demand huge penalties from residents years after arrival.

The report, backed by over 100 expats, says victims are hit with sudden reassessments and pressured into paying large sums or settling without recourse. Ruiz-Jarabo added that inspectors target the wealthy, regardless of nationality, because 'they’re bound to have more assets'.

He also slammed a €125 million staff bonus scheme rewarding inspectors who collect the most tax – claiming it fuels 'invented cases'.

Robert Amsterdam, the white paper’s co-author, told the Olive Press the Hacienda must 'reinstate the presumption of innocence' and reform its broken appeal process. Backing the campaign, Supreme Court judge Jose Antonio Montero warned tax fines were now being used as a 'pressure mechanism'.

Despite official claims that less than 1% of assessments are disputed, new data shows 60% of appeals succeed.

STOCKS, BONDS AND YOUR MORTGAGE

WE’VE all heard of stocks and bonds, and most of us have a basic understanding of what they are. Stocks represent ownership in a company, while bonds are essentially loans to a company or a government.

It’s widely recognised that it’s wise to hold both in your investment portfolio. Why? Because putting all your financial eggs in one basket is rarely a good idea – diversification helps manage risk. Even better, stocks and bonds are often negatively correlated. When stock markets dip, investors tend to seek the relative safety of bonds – which pushes up bond prices. By holding both, you can reduce volatility, aim for the same returns with less risk, and avoid emotional investing pitfalls like panic selling. But how much of each should you hold? That’s where opinions differ.

The big question in investing –known as the asset allocation decision – has many answers. Strategies include:

● Ti me horizon-based: The longer you have until retirement or needing the money, the more stocks you can hold. Shorter time frames favour bonds or cash.

● Go al-based investing: Allocate different stock/bond mixes to different goals. For example, a child’s university fund might be 50/50, while a short-term house deposit could lean 20/80.

● Target-date funds: These adjust your portfolio based on when you plan to retire, gradually shifting from stocks to bonds over time.

● A ge-based: A classic rule says subtract your age from 100 (or 120) to determine the percentage to hold in stocks, with the rest in bonds.

At BISSAN Wealth Management, where I work, we take a goalbased approach. First, we learn about your financial objectives – retirement, children’s education, a property purchase – and then quantify these using our optimisation model. We calculate expected future cash needs and place those funds in bonds to shield them from market swings. The remaining capital is then invested in stocks.

You might say: “Goal-based investing has arrived in Spain.” But there’s another wrinkle – your mortgage.

If you still owe on your home, your asset mix might not be as balanced as you think. A mortgage is essentially a

bond in reverse – instead of receiving interest, you’re paying it. Let’s say you own €200,000 in bonds and €200,000 in stocks. On paper, that looks balanced. But if you owe €150,000 on your mortgage, then the interest from a large chunk of your bonds is simply going to cover that debt. Your net bond position is only €50,000 – meaning you’re more

heavily invested in stocks than you might realise. Some may take this as a sign to buy a cheaper home in Spain and avoid a mortgage altogether. My view? Find a trusted financial advisor in Spain who can help guide you through these decisions, so

you don’t have to navigate it all alone. Same facts. Smarter conclusions.

All about

Costa de la luz

WHILE it’s blowing a hoolie outside and well over 35 degrees in the sun, I’m sitting in deep shade and wondering what amazing culinary creation is going to appear next on my table.

This is La Traina, in Zahora, one of the true dining secrets of Andalucia.

Tucked away down a scruffy potholed lane somewhere between Vejer de la Frontera and Zahara de los Atunes you are not going to find it by accident.

THE LIGHTNESS OF BEING

Southern Spain’s most evocative coastline is bright, breezy and brilliant for walking, eating and watersports, writes Jon Clarke

Recipe for success

THE Costa de la Luz’s celibrated culinary prowess is down to the local surroundings, which produce some of the best quality in- gredients in the world.

The obvious examples are sherry, fish and the wonderful beef from the classic brown ‘retinto cows, which you often see wandering around in the hills and even on the beaches.

By Jon Clarke

And don’t expect silver service and menus in English or German…This is, after all, the Costa de la Luz - the Coast of Light - and a million miles away from its nearby cousin the Costa del Sol. Indeed the costas in general. This is a coastline of castles and carpaccios, calas and corvina (one of its

best local fish)... the perfect blend of nature and its best ingredients. This is a coastline of gems; histor ic Tarifa, the bridgehead for the Moors in Spain, and a crossing point for centuries and beautiful Vejer, with its cobbled streets and dynamic restaurant scene. This is a coastline of laid

Of course the amazing ‘almadraba’ bluefin tuna (top), caught nearby (above), is spectac- ularly good and the vegetables available are also of a high quality, particularly from Conil. Another reason is the type of tourists who visit the coast, which has seen a distinctly more refined crowd than its nearby rivals on the Costa del Sol. They demand quality and are pre- pared to spend to get it.

of Vejer to the extraordinary dishes at La Traina and (right) an inlet on the journey between Zahara and Barbate

Costa de la luz QUIRKY AND LAID BACK

back, low rise resorts; Roman Bolonia and the biggest sand dune in the world, entertaining El Palmar, with its party

crowd and surf, and alternative Canos de Meca, with its quirky, laid back feel. But what best sums up this long stretch

of coastline for me is restaurants like La Traina, or other hidden spots like Patria, Castelleria or Punta Sur.

These are right at the top of their game and all sit in leafy gardens, often high in the hills and sometimes with views to die for.

But even better they are surrounded by southern Spain’s most evocative stretch of coast, a canvas of contours and colours, a backdrop of Africa, and all illuminated by the most extraordinary changing light.

It’s everything you could want for a beach holiday: Long, unspoilt (and often empty) beaches, windswept sand dunes and a smell of mimosa and rosemary, alongside shady umbrella pines. Practically unique to Spain these days, and sadly busier and busier each summer, what you really need to do is ex-

One of my favourite drives is the 15 minute journey from Zahara to Barbate. I actually walked it this Spring, but you’ll need a couple of hours.

A genuine tardis between two worlds, Zahara is the quintessential home of affluence; a golden magnet for stylish restaurants and a flotilla of Range Rovers and Teslas come peak holiday season.

In contrast, Barbate is a new town created by dictator Francisco Franco, a pockmarked working class place with high unemployment and ugly 1960s tower blocks. What they share though, is privilege. A surrounding patchwork of greenery and long, unspoilt beaches, only broken up by inlets from the sea and a forest of pines. This is what much of Andalucia’s coastline

From

BEAUTY:

the coast near Tarifa to the bustling main square in Vejer, while (top left) kite surfing is huge here

would have looked like half a century ago, with only the Cabo de Gata in Almeria coming near to match its beauty.

What this stretch of coastline has in particular though is a

variety of ancient and historic towns and villages.

Laid back and unshowy, its friendly, unfussy locals complement the breathtaking scenery and distinctive vibe.

Vejer, in particular, has an incredible mix of stylish boutique hotels and one of the best selection of high quality eateries in all of Andalucia (see overleaf).

Tarifa has an altogether different feel. This is a town for watersports lovers and a place to party, especially in summer, when it is heaving with buzzing nightspots open until the early hours.

But it also has a melting pot of worldly Spaniards and expats, who make for a distinct Tarifa scene, also with its fair share of restaurants and shops.

It is also one of the few towns in southern Spain – thanks in large to its wind – that still has a bit of life in the winter.

It also has a fair share of history with the Moors first arriving

in Tarifa in 710AD making it their main bridgehead into southern Spain.

The Moors ruled this land for nearly 800 years and its historic ramparts are littered with references to the stirring catholic heroes who battled them, some with statues, including Sancho El Bravo and Guzman el Bueno.

There’s a kind of untouched purity to the place

You’ll love its ancient old town gateways, and the narrow cobbled streets of its old town, which still include an ancient fish market and plenty of fascinating buildings.

Heading up the coast from Tarifa, history lovers must seek out the famous Trafalgar lighthouse – off which the key naval battle once took place as well as the

ancient fishing village of Sancti Petri, near Chiclana. Chiclana’s eight kilometres of golden beach meanwhile remain refreshingly uncrowded - populated mostly by Spanish families from inland cities like Sevilla. There’s a kind

of untouched purity to the place. The town centre offers a maze of Moorish-era alleys and historic buildings, like the clock-tower gate of Arco Torre del Reloj. Next door Conil meanwhile is an attractive place that hugs its own beach.

Renowned for the local seafood it was crowned the 2024 Gastronomic Town of Spain and also has a vibrant nightlife scene.

Look out for the Torre de Guzman, an old military fortification dating back to the 14th century.

SECRET SPOTS

One of my favourite must visits on the Costa de la Luz are the Roman ruins at Bolonia.

This well preserved museum showcases the success Roman merchants had on this stretch of Cadiz coastline and the nearby beach and its giant sand dune warrant a half day at least.

Best of all, is the half an hour walk from Bolonia to secret El Canuelo beach, where you will find just cows, the celebrated brown retinto kind of the region. I also love the amazing walk through umbrella pines to the Torre del Tajo,

nia. And, if you are still looking for more, how about San Fernando?

This is where Camaron de la Isla, the legendary flamenco singer, hails from. His childhood home now functions as a somewhat sanitised museum and this is a little-visited town with plenty of in-

THE COAST WITH THE MOST

THE Costa de la Luz officially stretches for around 200kms all the way from Tarifa up into Huelva and to the border with Portugal.

whitewashed homes sit beside an imposing American naval base - one of the largest in Europe.

And let’s not forget the grand old city of Cadiz, said to be Spain’s most ancient and big back in Phoenician time. Oh the incredible lightness of being! teresting nooks and crannies. Further west, Rota offers an unexpected blend of beach life and military might. Here,

Split in two by the stunning Donana national park, the coastline also includes the so-called 'sherry triangle' or 'Cadiz coast' towns of Sanlucar de Barrameda, Rota, Chipiona and El Puerto de Santa Maria. It also includes the cities of Cadiz and Huelva.

FORTIFICATIONS: Tarifa and its statue of Guzman el Bueno, while (left) El Palmar beach

MOORISH

INSPIRATION: The entry into Tarifa old town RECORD-BREAKING:

The dune in Bolonia and Roman ruins (behind)

HERE LIES HERCULES!

The Romans later replaced the structure with a temple dedicated to Hercules, who they believed was buried

Deemed strategically significant, the castle became a military fortress until its decommission in 1918.

The historic site can be reached by ferry from Sancti-Petri marina or by kayak if you’re feeling adventurous and once there you will find a bar with panoramic sea views.

Into the depths

UNDER the sun-kissed sea there lies an alien world, teeming with colourful life that makes Tarifa’s crowded beaches and bars seem a million miles away.

Scuba diving, a thrilling yet serene sport, abounds all around the Straits, and in particular near Tarifa.

Whether you are an experienced diver or a novice, you will be struck by two underwater wow factors: the clarity of the water and the infinite variety of fish.

A number of companies oper-

ate out of Tarifa harbour taking punters of all experience levels on dives and offer official PADI courses.

After a thorough land-based briefing on safety, science and equipment from my dive manager, at Yellow Sub, one of the longest running firms in business, we kitted up and made our way to the boat.

Given that my previous introduction to scuba diving was a university swimming pool, I was blown away by the vivid underwater landscape and clear visibility. The sheer number of aquatic species of all

sizes and colours of the spectrum is astounding. We chugged around Tarifa’s mini island, Isla de la Palomas, investigating every nook and cranny, marvelling at the magnificent orange anemones clinging to the rocks.

Sassy sea cucumbers, evil-looking moray eels with their malevolent mouths agape, fish that camouflage themselves in the sand… even Sir David Attenborough would wax lyrical!

At one point we came upon a pair of octopuses entwined in a passionate embrace, and, feeling like a third wheel, I edged away, but soon realised they were fighting over the best hiding place under the rocks. It was fascinating to watch and, as the victor took up residence, the loser powered off to regroup.

Whether you’re a rookie or an expert seeking fresh challenges, Yellow Sub, will show you a breathtaking underwater world you’d never imagine existed.

Visit www.divingtarifa.com

DIVING IN: Boss Enrique cools off at Yellow Sub after a dive

Whale of a time

WE are about equidistance between Spain and Morocco in the deepest part of the Straits of Gibraltar.

Flying fish, turtles and two types of whale are basking around, feeding and luxuriating in this food-rich marine paradise, some 15 minutes offshore from Tarifa.

And that’s not to mention the dolphins, including a pair of Bottlenose, who are shepherding their calf, that is apparently no

more than a week old.

Soon we have found a school of dolphins swimming around the boat and, being so calm, we can see them clearly under the water.

It’s an almost religious experience for the boat-load of tourists, as the stunning mammals clearly swim over to take a closer look at us.

“These two are particularly inquisitive,” pipes up a voice from the cockpit above, as one particular pair come sniffing up to the boat, then swim underneath

at an amazing speed.

The words come from Dr Katharina Heyer, a remarkable woman of 83 years of age, who has become, without a doubt, one of the world’s authorities on sea life off the tip of southern Spain. It’s her 27th year working with her company Firmm, which was set up after she was guided to Tarifa to see whales and dolphins by a ‘spiritual man’ in 1998.

Then running her own fashion company in Switzerland, she visited the area to find nobody

organising trips to see the mam mals and almost no research on them.

“I arrived on a really rainy, awful day to find no whale boats, just fishermen, and had to rent a diving boat to take me out,” she explains.

Flying fish, dolphins and giant turtles pay a visit on a trip into the Straits

and many other fish.

It is one of the best places in the world to see them, with the currents bringing a lot of food from both directions, explains Katharina.

moved out to set up her ‘respectful whale watching’ company in Tarifa and has never looked back.

It may not have been perfect weather conditions, but what she saw completely changed her for good.

While she had long enjoyed diving holidays with her teenage sons in the Caribbean and the Maldives, seeing a group of Pilot whales and Bottle-

Indeed, so respected has been her research into the mammals over the last two decades - in particular her sensitization work for them – that in 2017 she was awarded an honorary doctorate from the University of Basel.

There are now a handful of companies taking visitors out to see the mammals from Tarifa, and on most days they can expect to see Sperm whales, Pilot whales and even Orcas, not to mention various types of dolphins

However, this brings in itself severe risks, as they are entering one of the busiest waterways in the world with more than 300 freighters and other sea traffic passing every day. Indeed, as you look out into the Straits you are witnessing a battle for survival.

“The lives of dolphins and whales are at risk from ferries getting faster and faster, the noise from shipping traffic and more,” she explains.

“We are trying our best to monitor their numbers and do our best to minimise the issues they face.”

Visit www.firmm.org

EYE-OPENING: The sighting of whales and dolphins often has visitors in tears

Costa de la luz

Nervecentre for dining

THERE isn’t much Alberto Reyes doesn’t know about food…so it’s appropriate he’s at the frontline of fine dining in Vejer.

His restaurant, 4 Estaciones, is at the epicenter of one of Andaulcia’s nervecentres to eat.

Open since 2017, it’s impossible to dine badly in his joint which is as attractive on the eye as it is tasty on the stomach.

Much of this is thanks to his careful selection of chefs, with his latest signing, Esperanza Macias, having trained at Andalucia’s top restaurant, Aponiente, which counts on three Michelin stars, at nearby El Puerto de Santa Maria.

“You need to continually up your game here and keep trying new things,” ex-

Jon Clarke explores why Vejer de la Frontera has become the food capital of Cadiz drawing in culinary tourists from around the world

ucts and change them by the season and always hire talented chefs in the kitchen.”

But even then, there is no guarantee you will survive, with the town continually evolving and refining its range of restaurants.

plains Reyes, who grew up locally and previously ran the highly-rated Arohaz, in nearby Canos de Meca.

“You need to understand how to use local prod-

“In fact, they should be doing a university course on the success of Vejer’s food revolution,” continues Reyes, who is speaking at an interior table of his charming joint surrounded by books on cuisine from all corners of the globe.

jer, which counts on around a dozen of entries in the latest Repsol dining guide for Spain.

While many are in its nearby environs (or greater Vejer) including Canos de Meca and El Palmar, the centre of Vejer is the place to start.

It says a lot about his mindset, which might be local in terms of produce but is clearly extremely global in terms of ambition.

He is one of many success stories in Ve-

is crammed with statues and old buildings

Take recent arrivals Jaime and Alejandra, whose restaurant Narea landed a much sought after Repsol Sol in under a year.

A charming spot on the prestigious Corredera street with the most breathtaking views helped, but what sets it aside is the amazing drive and industry of this young culinary pair. They have three-star pedigree all the way, having met at one of Spain’s best restaurants, El Celler de Can Roca, before honing their skills at Madrid’s top restaurant Diverxo. With six Michelin stars between the two joints, what they learnt was invaluable, before launching into their first place together.

Coming from Malaga and Cadiz, they were fully aware of the quality of restaurants in Vejer, and it is a real honour they overlooked Andalucia’s famous cities to land in the town.

“We knew about the famous quality here and we knew many of the restaurants as well as many of the local farmers.

“We figured we had something new and unique to offer and it is a real honour for Repsol to give us this award so quickly,” Jaime told me.

As Jaime explains, so much of the quality here is due to the local seafood, vegetables and meat.

But Vejer’s extraordinary location, charming architecture and remarkable views also help. You need, however, to get out into the countryside nearby to seek out other gems.

I spent a long time travelling around the nearby area for my book Dining Secrets of Andalucia a decade ago and was shocked to discover so many amazing places to eat.

One of the best is Patria, a ten minute drive inland, through a genuine backwater of Cadiz province that almost no tourists venture.

Danish couple Ase and Thomas have the most amazing taste and are continually changing their menu, and even concept.

“I’m forever experimenting and trying new things,” explains chef Thomas, who also runs a natural juice business and has recently opened a new joint, Hierbas, in the centre of Vejer (see

HISTORIC: Vejer

ELEGANCE: Vejer old town, while (above) the team at Narea and (middle) Alberto at 4 Estaciones

review further on).

“The opportunity came up and we thought we might try a typical Danish sandwich business and so far so good,” he adds.

CULINARY HISTORY

I first found this culinary heaven when I landed at seminal restaurant Trafalgar (named after the nearby naval battle) on a side trip into the town centre, en route to Cadiz, nearly 20 years ago.

It stood out, appropriately, like a lighthouse in what was then something of a culinary desert.

A great mix of local and national dishes, lots with twists, led me back here a few months later when I stayed at the charming local hotel, Califa, literally right across the square. And that’s when I got the surprise of my life, it had an amazing hidden restaurant in its courtyard garden, focusing on local cuisine, as well as Moroccan fare from over the Straits.

It also turned out to have a British owner, James Stuart, a former travel guide and cycling pro, who decided he wanted to up the ante and take on his near neighbour.

future.

“Apart from Trafalgar the food was so boring back in the early noughties,” explains the hard-working Scotsman, who now has 10 restaurants and hotels in the area. “There was no Chinese, no Indian, no Japanese, and so we hoped to do something different.

“It didn’t take long to work out that we had to open a Moroccan restaurant, particularly as all the ingredients were literally on our doorstep, with the exception perhaps of couscous.”

He continues: “The two restaurants ended up setting the standard for the

SURVIVING: An old printers still creates leaflets, magazines and cards in

restaurant Castilleria, Campero and Antonio.

And there were still some amazingly authentic places to still eat as well.

“We knew we had to match Trafalgar for service and we tried to create our own niche,” continues the father-of-two, who came to Spain to open a cycling business in the 1990s.

“From then on anyone who opened a restaurant in Vejer had to be at our level…and from about 2010 as the recession ended things started to take off.”

Within the next few years the town could count on perhaps a dozen new places to eat, including el Muro, Judería and Casa Varo, while outside town emerged meat

They included the charming, Venta el Toro, in Santa Maria, gloriously unpretentious and little wonder celebrity American/Spanish chef Jose Andres, brought his daughters here for a recent food programme.

Little changed in decades, it is one of the last genuine redoubts of quintessential Andalucia, and the food, while simple, is absolutely delicious.

But, of course, it has to be in a town that nowadays has at least a dozen amazing places to eat, the genuine melting pot of the best of Andalucia!

STILL

the old town

EVOCATIVE: Charms of Vejer old town and (top) dining at Califa Tapas on the famous Corredera street

Costa de la luz

KIick back and relax

T’S sundowner time and a solitary kitesurfer is entertaining half the crowd assembled at the Hurricane hotel’s iconic beachside bar.

But while he’s showing off with jumps that stretch a good way towards Morocco, another more cultured half are sitting in a glade listening to flamenco.

Spread out on sofas under a stand of umbrella pines, they, like me, are being transported a long way further by a hypnotic repertoire mixed with Arabic sounds and African claps and rhythms.

A regular weekly event, the flamenco duo, a guitarist and singer, hold court with stunning aplomb.

As the sun begins to set there is a sense among the assembled throng that few places in the world offer such an atmospheric setting for music.

One of southern Spain’s most evocative hotels, the Hurricane is still doing well what it has been doing for decades.

A seminal enclave and something of a hideout for the privileged few since the 1980s, it is easy to feel like you are on a film set.

Hugging the coastline with spectacular gardens and two lovely pools, it is no wonder that guests have been coming back for years.

And they are not here for five-star polished service, but instead the charm-

Jon Clarke luxuriates at the Hurricane group of hotels near Tarifa, which have maintained their understated charm for decades

ing laidback vibe, you rarely find these days on the Spanish coastline.

The truth is, little has changed in decades and that is how they like it:

Most will simply saunter around in the morning before heading for the

with plenty of meat and fish, particularly with tuna from the nearby area. Of course a few are looking to do some exercise and it helps that there is a proper gym and spa and you can also hire bikes, go horse riding or take a hike right from the door.

famous buffet lunch, which is heavily but not entirely vegetarian and all cooked on the premises.

In the evening they stroll out onto the main terrace, dressing up to the nines and enjoying a more formal menu

POINTING TO PUNTA

Without a doubt more appropriate to families and for those wanting space, the Punta Sur hotel half a mile up the coast is a great alternative.

Its giant circular swimming pool sits in a spectacular setting and is properly cut off from the wind, which is great on the days when the wind is really blowing as it often does around these parts. Close to Valdevaqueros beach, its

leafy grounds hide fountains, duck ponds, peacocks and even a tennis court.

There is a massage centre and recently updated gym, not to mention its pool table in the big reception area, where doz ens of amazing photos and paintings are always on display.

But best of all is its charming El Jardin restaurant, which is the classic hidden escape for a long, languid lunch or a romantic eve ning under candlelight.

Sitting in the leafy garden, just behind the main hotel, its climbing plants and roses drape a pergola which is nicely lit at night.

Even better, the menu is local and seasonal with plenty of special touches.

The local tomatoes, with fresh basil

and mozzarella are excellent, while the tuna sashimi - in a homemade ponzu sauce was the perfect starter. So so fresh.

Ivan the chef has been here a long time now and to keep up his interest he makes sure there are plenty of specials every week.

On this visit I tried his ‘marine secretos’

which was beautifully sliced bluefin tuna - half lomo and half ventresca - so tasty and succulent.

Another day I tried the Pargo, a rock fish from the area and it couldn’t have been better cooked.

My suite at the top of the garden looked out over the grounds towards the sea, with Africa in the distance behind.

I watched huge tankers steaming by and the occasional bob of a kitesurf. From here it is the most amazing walk or jog up the coast to the Hurricane hotel.

You simply hop over the main road and walk through scrub and sand dunes until you hit the beach, then take a left.

One of the most hauntingly beautiful stretches of coastline in Spain, you will likely meet nobody and the only buildings are the odd shack and a few demolished military pill boxes installed during dictator Franco’s reign.

TRANSCENDENTAL: A duo feels their ‘duende’ during a flamenco show, while (left) watching a kitesurfer

SERVICE WITH A SMILE: Serving a cava at the Hurricane, while (left) reception at Punta Sur

BEAUTY: The verdant El Jardin restaurant at Punta Sur

ELEGANCE: Dining at the Hurricane and its famous buffet lunch

COSTA DE LA ‘HOOF’

LOOKING for a great horseback adven ture on the Costa de la Luz?

Tarifa’s Hurricane Hipica, run by world-class equestrian Klaartje Muijser from Holland, offers breath-tak ing beach and mountain rides. The horses are well looked-after, living shoe-free in the open fields at night.

A brilliant teacher and guide Klaart je is a genuine horse-whisperer who can often be found herding half a dozen horses around the area on her own.

In particular, a fan of the moun tain rides, she recommends a half day out, with a ‘secret’ stop ping off place where she and her team will set up a picnic table for lunch.

“The views up on the Penon are amazing, perhaps some of the best in Europe,” she insists. For information, check out www.tarifahip.com

ARTISTRY AND ATUN

Take a pinch of great local ingredients, a barrel-load of talent and stir in some dream settings. Jon Clarke winkles out the best places to eat on the Costa de la Luz

WITH a Napoli scarf and pho-

tos of Maradona on the wall

you would hope the pizzas at Tarifa’s Trattoria would be good.

But owner Luciano Fabricio is taking

no chances.

The Neopolitan cuts no corners when it comes to offering the best pizzas and pasta in town…and possibly the whole Costa de la Luz.

Having won the Best Independent Pizza award - one of only three in Andalucia - he makes sure to employ the best Italian chefs and doesn’t scrimp and save on ingredients.

“It is a real artform and it takes many years to become the best pizza chef,” explains Fabricio, who can often serve up to 750 pizzas a day and over 20,000 in the summer.

“Trainees start at 14 years old in Italy and they often hardly touch the dough for two years.

“In fact, it is often not until they hit 19 or 20 that they are allowed to make the first pizzas.”

So watching his pizza chef Aldo Dapra go about his business making the dough at 10am for the FOLLOWING day’s menu is a true joy.

“Look, this is a serious business and if you want to make a really good Napolitana pizza, it has to be very hydrated. You use very little yeast and allow the dough to ferment over 24 hours.

“Most people make it in just two hours

and so the quality is poor.”

He continues: “You also need the best tomatoes and, of course, mozzarella.

The one we buy at Trattoria costs €10 a kilo, some €7 or €8 more than anywhere else. I think most people can taste the difference.”

There is no doubt you can taste the quality here and, best of all, these pizzas are among the most original I’ve eaten in Spain.

Aside from the delicious Black Angus, one of the best is Li Mortazzi Tua, which had pistachios, basil, mortadella as well as an entire buffalo mozza-

rella on top. To say I was full would be an understatement. And if you happen to be Scottish (and can prove it) you can have the brand new McTominay half price at €8.50. And best of all it doesn’t include haggis.

TASTY TARIFA

Generally Tarifa has much improved its range of restaurants over recent years. Thanks to new places like Merkado 27 MicMoc and Almacen %, there is a bit of jostling for position, particularly at lunch time when people are getting on or off of

ATTITUDE: Waitress at Jarana in Barbate

NAPOLTAN DREAM: Trattoria in Tarifa

boats from Morocco.

It is also exciting that a Basque restaurant, Atxa, won a Bib Gourmand award from the Michelin guide last year.

This hidden spot, based in a 19th century townhouse, is run by chefs Laura Garcia and Arturo Perea, who met while working at three Michelin star Martin Berasategui restaurant in the Basque region.

Things bode well having won a Sol award from the Repsol guide just after opening in 2022 and looks to be heading for a star. Some of the best places to eat in Tarifa are on the way out of town.

I always like Chringuito Carbones 13, while the Hurricane hotel (see separate article) serves a legendary buffet lunch, popular with the locals and tourists alike.

Also track down Pacha Mama, which is an institution that can feed up to 1,000 people a day in the heart of summer.

Linked to the Slow Food Movement, it counts on the very best free range meats, from top breeds, including Simental and Galician Blonde, and with each cow needing to be at least five years old, and having been fed naturally in fields of grass.

“This is the only way to impregnate the fat with that characteristic aroma of grass and milk,” explains its maitre D.

Take note, when it is blowing a gale in Tarifa, Pacha Mama really comes into its own as it is brilliantly sheltered with a charming garden featuring a pool for the kids to play in.

Also very much worthy of note is the charming sheltered garden restaurant, El Jardin, at the Punta Sur hotel, near Valdevaqueros beach.

Again, it is brilliant for windy days, it being so sheltered, what it is best known for is its fresh, original dishes

courtesy of head chef Ivan. He is a huge fan of the coast’s best local ingredients, such as tuna and retinto steak, but he always comes up with plenty of specials by the day.

The local tomatoes, with fresh basil and mozzarella are excellent, while the tuna sashimi - in a home-made ponzu sauce is a highly rated starter and very fresh.

COASTAL TRAWL

For foodies moving west out of Tarifa is one of the most exciting culinary journeys in Spain. It was two decades ago when I

first visited the Costa de la Luz for a travel article for the Daily Mail.

I had heard a lot about the beauty and beaches of the coast, but one thing for sure, I was not expecting great restaurants. This was,

after all, Cadiz, one of Spain’s true backwaters and - statistically - the poorest province in the country.

However, thanks to a series of locals - including the late hotelier James Whaley, who set up the Hurricane hotel and businessman James Stewart in Vejer - I was given the knowledge to help me root out a string of secret spots.

In particular, I was guided to the heart of Barbate and its cathedral of tuna, El Campero, which has since become one of my favourite fish restaurants in Spain.

I was also sent out into the hills, to places like Santa Maria and Patria, where a series of charming places like Patria itself and Castilleria were found.

Next, I was nudged into El Palmar and Zahora, where today you will find the brilliant La Traina.

Then I found the most charming hotel, Antonio, in Zahara de los Atunes, and even better it also had a restaurant.

I was soon returning frequently, particularly after launching the Olive Press in 2006, loving the difference from the Costa del Sol or inland around Ronda.

The real success story - indeed, the biggest change over the last two decades - has been the way that Vejer became the definitive Dining Capital of Cadiz and one of the best in Andalucia.

I’ve written about the reasons for this many times for the Olive Press and reviewed up to a dozen places in the town (see Nervecentre for Dining, on page 14).

But, two places I will always love eating at are at Califa and 4 Estaciones

These two joints typify the quality on offer in Vejer.

The Jardin de Califa has rightly become a genuine foodie pilgrimage with many travelling from

HIDEOUT: Pacha Mama has amazing organic meat and burgers

AMBIENCE: The leafy garden at El Jardin and a tuna sashimi

HARKING BACK

abroad and all over Spain to eat here.

You will need to book for this charming palm courtyard reached through the labyrinthine corridors of the 16th century Califa hotel.

Enclosed by ancient walls harking back to the days of al-Andaluz, it is

appropriately lit up with Moroccan lamps and counts on the smell of the jasmine, dama de noche and incense to add to the Middle Eastern mystique.

The menu is a wonderful trawl of Spain and north Africa, put together by a very skilled multicultural kitchen.

If I had to plump for one dish go for the ‘pas-

tela’ filled with chicken, almonds and cinnamon, baba ganoush and shish taouk.

It’s no surprise that the group has opened a string of other restaurants in town, including the simple, yet charming Fez, which sits in the heart of town.

A step up is the brilliantly sited Califa Tapas, on the famous Calle Corredera, with views to match the food. Forget the name ‘tapas’ it has a much bigger mix of dishes and the service is always second to none.

Just a stone’s throw away is 4 Estaciones where Alberto Reyes has been cooking up a storm for a decade now.

The food is nothing short of excellent and it is decidedly seasonal, with his ‘sorbete de gazpacho’ the real summer winner. Coming with olive oil ice cream, prawns, ham and free range egg and black pepper it is a

dish made famous at three Michelin star Diverxo, in Ma drid.

A ravioli dish of wontons filled with crab and lobster is anything but your ordinary dish for these parts and it’s handled well and with panache … rich and delicious!

surefire way to cool down.

I’ve actually had it three times now at this exact time of year, when the mercury climbs up towards 40 degrees, and I keep forgetting how cool it is.

I also love his Saam with a tail of King Prawn, guacamole, trout roe, spring onion and kimchi, a variation on a

Much of his new range of dishes is thanks to his new head chef Esperanza Macias, who picked up a range of skills working at nearby Aponiente, which with three Michelin stars is Andalucia’s best restaurant.

Another brand new spot is Hierbas by Patria, which also sits on the Corredura.

I was particularly excited to try it, given that it is the new spot of Ase and Thomas Donso, my favourite restaurateurs on the Costa de la Luz.

This is very much a diffusion place to their brilliant Patria restaurant, some ten minutes away inland from Vejer.

The focus is healthy dishes, explains Dane Thomas, and it is sensibly very different from Patria.

It is a much simpler menu to start

with including a salad section, a sandwich section, and a section of sharing dishes including cod croquettes, a so-called ‘Canadian wrinkled potatoes’ with mojo sauce and alioli.

I instead tried the lightly fried aubergine with guacamole and pico de gallo, literally ‘roosters beak’ which is actually a Mexican dish of tomato, red pepper and onion. It was delicious, as was the ‘bol de burrito’ a highly original and classic Mexican luncheon dish of refried rice, corn, carrot, cheddar, onion , chili beans, lettuce, gherkins, red peppers and more.

“The idea is you mix it all in and, bingo, you’ve got a cracker,” explains Thomas.

“Basically I always wanted to open a sandwich place. I like them as do most Scandinavians and I didn’t just want bread with a bit of ham and cheese… we are trying to do something different - quality bread from a mother doe Italian bakery.”

Another new place is Zano Smash by

From front page

STUNNING: Courtyard at Califa amd (below) Califa Tapas

CHARM: At 4 Estaciones

Kaos, one of the most intriguing names

I’ve heard for a restaurant in recent years. It has been set up by Argentinian dynamo Felipe, alongside his pal, chef Joseph from Cambridge and its USP is very much burgers and quality meat.

It’s a clever niche for this town, which has just about everything else and Joseph grew up in a family of chefs and has been cooking since the age of 16.

“I actually had my own burger van and have done a bit of time at a few Michelin restaurants, so hopefully I know what I’m doing,” he says.

The restaurant has hired two local brothers Antonio and Pablo to run the joint, as they have another in Zahara.

I was sent out a ‘Kaos burger’ chosen by Pablo which came with three patties of retin to steak, Edam cheese and a special sauce which has go chujang pasta, kimchi and black garlic, lime and mayonnaise. Bloody hell. This is one hell of a burger. It won’t disappoint.

dried tuna … Pastel de atun with asparagus and payoyo cheese - real Cadiz - was like a pastel cabracho, very light, subtle

although I’m not sure it warranted the strawberries on top

Next I had the Tarantelo bajo with spicy tomato in a sauce of chives and two root vegetables parsnips and kohlrabi pickles (google it and check the photos !)

HIDDEN ZAHORA

Tucked away in the hamlet of Zahora, some ten minutes south of Vejer is one of those places you pass in the blink of an eye, but you miss at your peril.

Set in a leafy garden behind a high wall, La Traina is the genuine dining secret.

The creation of DJ, Antonio, and his brother Alex, a talented chef, their encyclopedic knowledge of fish and seafood is tip top, hence naming the place after a type of trawler.

This is one of the best places to eat the

classic blue fin tuna on the coast, it being very near the fishing port of Barbate.

The tartare is unbelievably good although I also love the sashimi of ventresca and, in particular, the tartaki, which comes with no less than 12 generous slices of delicious tuna belly. But each year they add so many exciting new things! And not just the chairs shaped like fish heads.

The ajo blanco with blue fin was so well handled … the consistency of the almonds with a touch of sweetness and the saltiness of the small chunks of air

A pudding of pine nuts with rosemary and juniper berries called appropriately postre La Breña comes from the nearby hills … and you can actually taste what you smell on nearby hikes … even more so when a glass of local moscatel and Pedro Ximenez is proffered by young waiter Christian, a local chap who’s fascinated by the food and has worked here for 4 years … It’s from the local vineyard Bodegas Gallardo and has a tiny touch of orange zest … strange but oddly complimentary…

AWESOME ANTONIO

In Zahara de los Atunes itself is easily one of the best fish restaurants in Spain.

Not surprising in a town named after its famous fish, Antonio is its real standout place to eat and stay.

I first found it two decades ago while working for the Sawday’s Special Places to Stay travel guide and listed it in a

travel piece for the Mail.

Run by sergeant major Alejandro it is a well oiled machine and it has the swagger of a top class joint you’d find in San Sebastian or Madrid.

The tuna dishes are the best in Spain and they are served with real panache, while the ham from nearby Jabugo is spectac ular.

Grab a table and I promise you won’t forget it, but be warned it is not easy to get one and it often helps if you’ve booked a room in the hotel next door.

PERFECTION AT PATRIA

It is in a small hidden hamlet in the back of beyond that you will find the best dining secret of Cadiz.

Patria is the redoubt of zen-like expats Ase and Thomas Donso, from Denmark, who have waved their magic culinary wand at their low key restaurant for well over a decade now.

One of the most scenic spots in Andalucia, it has a fabulous wine list, a varied seasonal menu and local ingredients, including baby fennel from nearby Conil or coriander from his garden. Enjoy the romance of its candle-lit flagstone terrace, which harks to the

Alps or Pyrenees with its vine-clad veranda and expanses of oleander.

I can recommend dishes like pan brioche with beef steak marinated overnight, with gherkins, chives and dill and served on a baby lettuce. Or try the smoked beef with cabbage, tarragon, mustard and goat’s cheese foam rolls. But chances are they won’t be on the menu.

Another time I had bravas, which are sliced with a ‘mandolin’ and carefully baked, then finally deep fried and served with fresh tomato and aioli and chives. The comforting crunch gave way to a softy, succulent inside.

A carpaccio of local Barbate prawns were carefully sliced and served with salicornia and a kimchi sauce, with some cherry tomatoes.

“We don’t just source our ingredients locally, but our staff are all too, literally from the nearby hamlet,” explains mum-of-two Ase, whose kids are often helping out in the sala.

NEW BROOM: Hierbas by Patria and the ‘bol’ dish

STUNNINGL Joe and Felipe and a burger at Zone

TOP OF THE PILE: Antonio is a legend, while (right) two dishes at Patria

CREATIVE: The ajo blanco and pine nut pudding at La Traina

ROM beachside boutiques to historic houses and from expansive estates to restaurants with rooms, there are so many great places to stay on the Costa de la Luz.

Those looking for romance though will inevitably head to Vejer de la Frontera, where not only can you wine and dine your loved one, but you have oodles of history to enjoy.

The number one place to stay is historic La Casa de Califa, at the top of the town in its loveliest square. This Moorish manor house sits around a leafy central patio, where guests take breakfast and dine under candlelight each evening (but don’t forget to book).

Bit by bit its rooms have gone through a complete upgrade over the last couple of years thanks to talented Scottish designer Ellie Cormie, who has an incredible eye and uses a mixture of global influences in her work. Next door, Plaza 18, is a classic design hotel which oozes style and history, but also features sumptuous suites as rooms.

The best have roof terraces facing the wonderful white town, while the downstairs communal terrace is comfort personified.

Designed by British interior designer Nicky Dobree, it has been created out of

UPGRADE: All Califa’s rooms have been overhauled

IDYLLIC: Madreselva in Canos de Meca is a dream retreat

DREAMY Costa de la luz

hotels on the Costa de la Luz

a charming 19th. century manor house.

The sitting room downstairs offers the grandeur of an English country estate with the colours and light so classical of the Cadiz region

Meanwhile, around the corner, Las Palmeras, is the winner if you are looking for a pool to cool off after a day of sightseeing. Down on the nearby coast, at Canos de Meca, Madreselva is just 50m from the famous beach, as well as most of the local restaurants.

It has a sleepy courtyard, a small pool and the best breakfast on the coast.

In Zahara, meanwhile you have the excellent Hotel Antonio, sitting on one of Andalucia’s top beaches and with one of the best restaurants on the coast, which is practically fully booked all summer, unless you have a room.

In the heart of Zahara, you must definitely check out Hotel Pozo del Duque, which sits right on the best part of the beach and counts on two pools. Up in Tarifa, few places come better sited than Tarifa’s Hurricane Hotel and its sister Punta Sur.

The Hurricane has counted on celebrities and royals as regular guests

You have a choice of room in the older, more charming part of the hotel, or in the modern part nearer the main road. Either way, getting a room may be your best bet to get a booking in the restaurant, which is all but full until September.

Set up in the 1980s, the Hurricane has counted on celebrities and royals among its guests, no surprise given its location in stunning gardens, at the end of celebrated Los Lances beach. Its sister Punta Sur sits in an amazing leafy enclave, protected from the famous Tarifa winds, with well appointed rooms and the best pool on the coast. Oh and a tennis court and great restaurant to boot.

EXPANSIVE: The grounds at Punta Sur and (above) a suite at the Hurricane

Back home

A RARE painting by Catalan artist Joaquin Mir Trinxet has been recovered by police 16 years after it was stolen from a Barcelona gallery.

The vivid landscape piece, titled Paisaje, is valued at €21,000 and was taken in 2009 by a gang of art thieves.

Mir y Trinxet (1873–1940), a key figure in Catalan modernism and the ‘Generation of 1898’, has many works displayed at Barcelona’s MNAC. Following a joint operation with Interpol, police located and returned the painting to its rightful owner.

No arrests have been confirmed.

In a similar high-profile case, five Francis Bacon paintings worth €30 million were stolen from a Madrid flat in 2015 –with one still missing.

Beacon of culture

A GRISLY discovery in the Catalan Pyrenees has unveiled the shocking reality of prehistoric violence - with a flint arrowhead embedded in a human rib more than 4,000 years old. The remains were found

Flint arrowhead found in human remains reveals

violent conflict in ancient Spain

PREHISTORIC MURDER MYSTERY

By Dilip Kuner

at the Roc de les Orenetes burial site, and offer proof of ancient conflicts.

Dr Carlos Tornero from the Universitat Autonoma de

TO Brits the name ‘Trafalgar’ is forever linked to Admiral Nelson and the battle in which he was killed.

But now the cape has a new claim to fame.

The Trafalgar Lighthouse is on track to be declared an Asset of Cultural Interest.

Built in the late 19th century by engineer Eduardo Saavedra Morgas, the lighthouse is celebrated for both its historical significance and its role in maritime navigation.

The official declaration, published in the State Gazette, places the lighthouse under the ‘monument category’, ensuring its preservation and cultural recognition.

The Ministry of Culture will now forward the resolution to the relevant bodies including Barbate Town Council and the Port Authority of the Bay of Cadiz to continue with formal procedures.

X-ray

Now the team is turning to X-ray microtomography and biochemical analysis, which could reveal even more about the victim’s suffering and survival.

The Roc de les Orenetes site, a high-altitude cemetery used by a community

fragments.

While earlier digs at the cave - which was discovered in the 1960s - found fractures, cuts, and signs of weaponry, this arrowhead provides the first undeniable proof of a violent encounter. This is not just an ancient burial ground - it’s a snapshot of the struggles and brutal reality of early mountain life.

FILM BACKING

OSCAR-winning filmmaker Pedro Almodovar (pictured) has joined nearly 100 prominent cultural figures in defending Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez, calling recent corruption accusations an ‘orgy of fake news’.

In an open letter, artists including Ana Belen, Joan Manuel Serrat, Miguel Ríos and writers Luis Garcia Montero and Rosa Montero condemned what they describe as a ‘conservative offensive’ against the Socialist-led government. They argue the coalition’s social and economic progress is being drowned out by ‘attacks reminiscent of fascist tactics’. While acknowledging serious allegations involving senior PSOE figures, the letter insists no government should fall based on ‘a police report’ without a fair trial. The message also criticised politicised judicial actions and called out media manipulation creating an ‘unbearable political climate’.

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OP QUICK CROSSWORD

LA CULTURA

FROM Malaga they drove away from the coast across a rolling treeless plain the color of brick and yellow oxhide. The road was unsurfaced - little more than a wide track - and they stayed in third gear, bouncing through potholes and sweating profusely in the dry heat.

The azure sea with its silver waves, lost to view behind them, seemed like a fading dream from which they had now awoken to the hard reality of a desert land.

There was at most a trickle of water in the dried-out streambeds in which stunted pink and white oleander bushes clung to life alongside the ubiquitous gray-green agaves with their coarse, spiky leaves. Behind the car, a cloud of fine dust thrown up by the wheels hung in the still air like a curtain.

Sometimes they stopped to drink water and let a passing wagon drawn by a team of straining mules go by. Theo saw how the drivers shouted and cracked their whips and pitied the poor creatures anchored to their traces as they labored slowly on under the merciless hot sun.

A lifetime of uncomplaining drudgery until they finally dropped dead, leaving their carcasses behind to be sold for leather and glue.

At a crossroads, a cart brightly painted with vines and flowers and laden with olives had been pulled to the side of the road under the shade of a grove of thick-leaved pop-

Across

1 Professors’ world (7)

5 Bottle for drugs (4)

7 Dr Scores turned out for humanitarian organization (3,5)

8 “Doesn’t look good” (2-2)

9 Formerly Nyasaland (6)

10 Lengthen or broaden (6)

11 Spitfire, Interceptor or Defender, perhaps (3)

12 --- Sykes (4)

14 Basic idea (4)

15 Approves (3)

17 Airfield holding areas (6)

19 Least tainted (6)

21 Need (4)

22 Danger from above (3,5)

23 Rowan Atkinson role (4)

24 Family line (7) Down

1 Place for sports (5)

2 Outdated (7)

3 Strangely different (6)

4 Most important Christian festival (6)

5 Secure compartment (5)

6 Swarms (7)

13 Supersede (7)

14 Relevant (7)

15 Old saw about Presidential murderer (6)

16 Displays (6)

18 Many times (5)

20 Assassinated Egyptian President Anwar --- (5)

Have and have nots

In the first of an Olive Press serialisation of Simon Tolkien’s The Palace at the End of the Sea we head back to Spain in the early 1930s, a time of great turbulence and suffering. A true journey of discovery, we follow young American protagonist Theo as he finds out about his wealthy landowner stepfather Andrew, who owns huge tranches of olive groves and orange farms in Andalucia

lars. The driver was asleep in a hammock slung between the high front wheels, while his mule slept, too, standing up with only its tail twitching involuntarily against the attentions of the flies.

A few yards farther on, a small wayside shrine made of peeling painted wood contained a chipped blue-and-white statue of the Virgin standing on a makeshift plinth. At Elena’s insistence, they parked and went over. A small bunch of wildflowers was lying on the ground at the Virgin’s feet, wilting now in the heat, and beside it, a handwritten notice weighed down with pebbles begged passersby to pray for the soul of a child, Maria Fuentes, killed here by a madman.

‘What do they do with all that wood? It can’t just be for themselves’

There was no date and no explanation. No answers to the obvious

questions that sprang into Theo’s mind - Why the killing? Why here? Just the hard, red plain stretching out on all sides baked dry by the sun. The child was dead. The madman had killed her. What was done was done. Elena crossed herself and prayed briefly before they returned to the car, leaving the driver and his mule fast asleep under the trees. Slowly, the road started to wind and climb toward the foothills of the distant snowcapped mountains. Men and women were working in the dusty fields, bent double as they hoed, and Theo was surprised to see teams of oxen pulling wooden plows. Nothing was mechanized except their car. It was as if they were driving backward, he thought, into a biblical world that had survived unchanged since the dawn of time. They began to pass villages that appeared like splashes of white paint against the ocher-colored hills, with short columns of smoke rising into the still air above their crimson-tiled roofs. Outside one, they were stopped by a column of sheep moving slowly across the road like an eddying river.

Below, a real stream defied the drought and trickled between the rocks where women with worn, leathery faces and hair tied up in kerchiefs were laundering sheets and shirts. They stopped their work and stood for a moment motionless, staring up at the car as if it were some alien visitor from another planet, and then as one went back to their washing.

“The peasant women are tough here,” said Sir Andrew, looking down. “They give birth

All solutions are on page 28

CONTRASTS: Between the local peasant farmers and the giant orange estates owned by Theo’s stepfather

in the morning and are back washing their husbands’ clothes in the afternoon. It’s always been the same.” Theo saw his mother shudder. There were more people on the road now as they drove on. Women with water jugs balanced on their heads as they walked and bent-over men coming down the paths from the hills with tiedup bundles of firewood and pine cones on their

backs. Some were carrying such heavy burdens that Theo couldn’t see their faces. They looked like some strange species of tree creature, he thought. Not human at all.

“What do they do with all that wood?” he asked. “It can’t just be for themselves.”

“The bakers need it to fire their ovens,” said Sir Andrew. “They give the gatherers bread in exchange. It’s not an easy life.” Such understatement! It was a terrible life, Theo thought. Not one worth living. He had never seen such work. The firewood gatherers endured worse than pack animals, who at least could stay upright under their loads. His mind reeled as he tried to imagine their wretchedness.

“Will we be there soon?” asked Elena, whose suffering in the heat made her oblivious to the misery of others.

Marmalade

“Yes. Very soon. These are my orange trees,” said Sir Andrew, pointing proudly out of the window toward carefully tended groves running down the hillside as far as the eye could see in long, even lines.

“We send them to Scotland for marmalade in the spring. It’s a small business - not like the sherry - but profitable and guaranteed. The manufacturers in Dundee have to use these oranges because without them the taste changes. They tried switching to cheaper ones from Portugal in my father’s time and lost half their customers, so I think they’ve learned their lesson.

“The British are connoisseurs when it comes to their marmalade.” Sir Andrew laughed, and Theo wondered what else his stepfather owned. It was another version of Spain that he seemed to be projecting: a network of flourishing business interests flowing plentiful profits through the rural economy and into his capacious pockets, completely at odds with the vision of grinding poverty that Theo had been witnessing with growing

disquiet outside the car window.

They passed a weathered stone calvary in a grove of silver-leafed olive trees and a sign announcing the name of the village as LOS OLIVOS.

“Half a village and half a town,” said Sir Andrew with a wry smile.

“Too big for one, too small for the other. The people have been arguing about it for years, but they can never come to a decision. So one day they are villagers and the next they are townsmen, and whatever you call them, they are insulted.”

galvanized tin troughs, where a donkey was drinking and a girl was filling an earthenware jug.

Ahead, the village-town climbed toward the silver-domed belfry and spire of the church rising above the tessellated roofs in the shimmering sunlight, and beyond and behind that in the haze, the pine-clad foothills skirting the mountains. Higher and higher, leaving the plain behind. They drove slowly up through the narrow, winding lanes. Here, in the lower quarter, the single-story houses were no more than hovels with collapsing thatch for roofs and their once-whitewashed stucco walls fading to mottled gray, matching the faces of the inhabitants whom they passed here and there, leaning back against the crumbling masonry, staring into nothingness.

Only the children were mobile, running barefoot after the car in their dirty smocks, with their hands outstretched and white dust streaking their tousled black hair. They were shouting, but Theo couldn’t hear what they were saying through the closed windows of the car.

The confining walls on either side gave way as they entered a square with a small crumbling fountain in the center, dripping water into two

Asturias was just the beginning

The problem is that Spaniards aren’t political. They’re religious.

The Left just as much as the Right. They all think they’ve got God on their side. Or Marx or Bakunin or history. It doesn’t matter. What does is that they believe the people on the other side are the Antichrist or the class enemy, not human beings but rabid dogs. And you don’t talk to diseased animals. You shoot them, particularly if you have a taste for violence like the people here do. Violence is where all this will end. Asturias was just the beginning.”

Her face was turned away from Theo as she bent down, but she had a scarlet hibiscus flower in her hair—a stab of unexpected color amid the monochrome townscape.

Sir Andrew stopped the car, unable to go on because their way was blocked by an overturned cart that had lost a wheel.

A sack or two of prickly pears had spilled out of the back onto the filthy cobblestones, and the children who had run after them into the square were busy picking the fruit up and dropping them as the thorns cut into their hands. The driver of the cart was yelling at them, but they paid him no attention.

Across the way, on the other side of the fountain, men in berets were drinking and playing cards at tables set up outside a small café, apparently indifferent to the commotion.

Sir Andrew wound down the window for a moment to shout at the driver to pull his cart out of the way, and Theo’s senses were immediately overwhelmed by the acrid smells of the barrio - animal excreta and urine and rancid oil and smoke - and raucous sounds, too - a radio somewhere playing tinny flamenco, two invisible dogs carrying on a howling duet, and, closer at hand, the

shrieks and cries of the children.

A few moments later the way was clear and they drove on, leaving behind the children and the girl whose face Theo had still not seen and now never would.

As the car turned out of the square, he just had time to notice a line of red graffiti reading VIVA LA ANARQUÍA, daubed on a wall that had previously been invisible behind the cart.

Looking back over his shoulder, Theo felt a secret excitement. The bent-over backs and the hollow stares of the peasantry were misleading. There was life here beneath the surface. Anarquía—he tasted the word silently on his lips, wondering who it was that had scrawled it so boldly on the wall with the trailing paint dripping down from the bottom of the letters like blood.

So you’re an anarchist now?

As if by mutual agreement, Andrew and Theo remained where they were, standing and sitting, saying nothing, until they heard the sound of the front door closing. Looking down, he saw that his hands were shaking again, and he felt a terrible stiffness in his neck.

“Thank you,” he said, looking up at his stepfather. “I was all over the place and you saved me.”

“From your own foolishness,” said Andrew harshly. “I assume you did throw that flashlight?” Theo nodded. It didn’t occur to him to lie. He needed his stepfather and instinctively realized that Andrew wouldn’t be able to help him if he didn’t know the truth.

“So why did you do it?” Andrew de-

manded icily. “Because you’re an Anarchist now? Is that it?”

“No.”

“No? So you told the lieutenant the truth about that, even though the rest of what you said was lies?”

“I understand why they’re so angry about the exploitation and the injustice, but I don’t agree with what they want to do about it.” Theo spoke slowly, trying to get his words right, refusing to be provoked by his stepfather’s angry sarcasm into a reflex response.

“The burning and the violence, you mean?” asked Andrew. “Is that what you don’t agree with?”

Theo nodded.

“So why did you try to help them burn down the town hall?”

JOURNEY BACK IN TIME:

Hero Theo can’t believe the poverty he is seeing as he climbs into the Malaga mountains

CONSTRUCTION

CONSTRUCTION

LIVE-IN CARE

Across: 1 Academe, 5 Vial, 7 Red Cross, 8 Uh-oh, 9 Malawi, 10 Extend, 11 Car, 12 Eric, 14 Gist, 15 OKs, 17 Aprons, 19 Purest, 21 Want, 22 Air raids, 23 Bean, 24 Descent.

Down: 1 Arena, 2 Archaic, 3 Exotic, 4 Easter, 5 Vault, 6 Abounds, 13 Replace, 14 Germane, 15 Oswald, 16 Sports, 18 Often, 20 Sadat.

FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL

‘Not our fault’

AIRPORT workers have hit back at claims they’re behind Europe’s summer travel chaos, blaming airlines for delays and cancellations.

A new report from the European Transport Workers’ Federation (ETF) accuses carriers of creating a crisis through chronic understaffing, cost-cutting, and unrealistic turnaround times.

The report says flight crews are being pushed to the limit, with 25-minute turnarounds causing knock-on delays.

ETF insists strikes are not the main problem — just 2.35 minutes of last summer’s average 21-minute delay were due to air traffic issues, according to Eurocontrol.

In Spain, disruption hit airports in Malaga, Palma and Barcelona earlier this month.

“The EU’s obsession with cost-cutting and automation has backfired,” the report concludes.

A TINY Balearic village with just 205 residents is being swamped by more than 55,000 foreign tourists every summer – making it one of the most overwhelmed destinations in Spain. Escorca in Mallorca now sees 272 visitors for every resident during peak season, with one in five tourists being Italian, according to new data from Spain’s National Statistics Institute. The figures, gathered using mobile phone data, highlight how Spain’s coastal towns and islands are under enormous strain from mass tourism.

On the Costa Brava, Lloret de Mar – home to 42,000 residents – welcomed nearly half a

AS temperatures soar across Spain, locals are dreaming of the coast – but for many families, a beach break is now simply out of reach.

The average holiday budget for two people is €1,225, according to Cetelem Observatory. Yet even a week’s bargain break to Mallorca now

WALKING past the flesh pots of Puerto Banus in the middle of summer your heart naturally sinks.

Dealing with a scrum of pasty holidaymakers, entitled Saudi teenagers and a rabble of rubberneckers immediately puts the hackles up.

November 29thDecember 12th 2023

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million foreign tourists last summer alone.

“You collect taxes for 44,000, but provide services to 1.5 million,” said Elizabeth Keegan from Lloret Tourism, who added the pressure on cleaning, security and lifeguards is immense.

The Balearics dominate the list, with Alcúdia attracting over 430,000 foreign visitors in just four months.

With infrastructure buckling under the strain, there are growing calls for authorities to act – before the very charm drawing tourists to these picture-perfect towns is lost forever.

Priced out BEING SWAMPED

By Josie Sharp

costs €736 per person for a two-star hotel and flight – or €1,472 for two.

Menorca and Ibiza are even worse, with week-long trips topping €1,000 each. Meanwhile, flights from Madrid to

Soaring holiday costs at home force Spaniards to look abroad

the Costa del Sol are now averaging €170 – just €70 less than a return to Bali, where food and accommodation is much cheaper.

“Spaniards are more likely to travel abroad because Spain has become more expensive as a destination,” said Raul Gonzalez, CEO of Barcelo Hotel Group. It comes as Spain’s booming tourism sector is predicted to grow 2.7% this year, making up 13.1% of GDP and breaking pre-pandemic records.

STAR ARRIVAL

The world’s largest cruise ship, Star of the Seas, has docked in Cadiz for final inspections ahead of its maiden voyage from Port Canaveral, Florida, on August 31. Built in Finland, the 364-metre Royal Caribbean vessel features over 2,800 cabins, a 327-ton glass

and steel AquaDome, and the largest waterpark at sea, complete with six waterslides.

The 248,633-ton ship also includes an ice rink, surfside neighbour hood, and 40 restaurants and bars. It’s the sister ship to Icon of the Seas, launched last year.

Roaring quietly

Then add in the influencers, at ten to the euro, the hen and stag nights and packs of spoilt brats finally on their hols, and no wonder most expats head for the north of Spain at this time of year.

It might seem almost impossible to imagine there is anywhere decent to eat around here.

Then you turn the corner and there is Leone.

Almost like an oasis, it stands out with its neutral colours, low-key lighting and space.

Yes, it’s the first big day of summer so naturally there is an orange Lambo and a bright sky blue Roller parked outside and you’ll need to battle your way through the line for pizza joint Picasso’s, stretching some 100m through the port. But once inside, you can breathe easily. Not crammed to the gills like most

of the restaurants in the port, this is spacious and hip design at its best.

I’d recommend going for one of the banquette seat tables at the side or in the middle. That is unless you want to hang out nearer the front, where you

SPAIN’S rice farmers are facing wipeout, as their fields are overrun with weeds and pests – thanks to a pesticide and herbicide crackdown.

Since 2023, flight prices to popular domestic destinations have jumped by up to 68%, with hotel rates rising as much as 26%.

But while the tourism surge has filled the coffers, it’s also sparked growing anger. Mayors in Malaga, Granada and Sevilla are backing a tourist tax to protect residents’ quality of life.

With 94 million interna -

Agri-food cooperatives are pleading with the Agriculture Ministry for emergency approval of AURA, a herbicide banned in Spain but allowed in Italy, Portugal and Greece. They want it authorised on just 10–15% of paddies, calling it their last hope.

Cheap

“We’re working at the limit,” said Flix Liviano, head of

beat dishes to stand out above the nearby hordes.

It also really focuses on seasonal dishes and sells itself on being market fresh.

This I’m told by Nef, the Maitre, who has been in the house since Leone’s launch three years ago and I first met nearly a decade ago at one of Marbella’s best Italian joints.

I really trust this erudite Moroc-

can, from Tetuan, who is clearly unflappable and more than capable of guiding my family to a decent summer supper.

He insists we must go, for example, for the spring rolls with duck, which turn out to be extraordinarily sumptuous being confit and with hoisin sauce to boot.

Then on my son’s request we go for the sweetcorn ribs - a trademark of the Metro Group - which are very tender, as always.

While tempted by a duck and melon salad, Nef insists we have the poached lobster and mango salad, with apple and rocket.

He was bang on with what turned out to be one of the freshest, luxury salads I’ve had this side of the Millenium.

The mains included two lobster dishes, as well as a salmon teri-

With rice acreage down 24% in southern Europe and cheap imports rising, farmers fear not just crop loss – but the end

yaki, but we tried the lamb chops which come on a bed of rocket and were nicely seasoned with rosemary and thyme.

And finally the flat-iron wagyu steak, which was exceptional and came with a choice of three sauces. It was tender and nicely braised.

A real winner all in all including a shared cheesecake with blackberries.

It’s finally worth mentioning the DJ who kicks off around 8pm and who rotates with three others through the week.

It creates a nice vibe that I too often don’t think about.

It is my second visit since it opened in 2022 and on this showing things have come along nicely. Forget about roaring,

punter is purring!

2

FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL

GREAT BIG BEAUTIFUL LIFE, Emily Henry

Henry tops the list again, with formulaic but enthralling plot lines, the American author has made a name out of her adult romance beach read hits. Her latest novel explores two writers competing for a literary prize, whilst also falling for each other. Essentially, it’s chick lit: a guilty pleasure but a hit nonetheless.

A

Queer Road-Trip Romp, follows protagonists Bernie and Leah as they set out on a cross-country road trip, Thelma and Louise style, and make plenty of self discoveries whilst strengthening their bond. HOUSEMATES, Emma Copley Eiseneberg

THE HOUSEMAID’S SECRET,

Freida McFadden

xtremely popular at the moment (and selling out fast) this sequel to The Housemaid is a thriller bound to keep you on your toes - it’s about a cleaner who uncovers a terrible secret about her employers while cleaning their house… riveting stuff! Full of twists and surprises, it has left readers in shock.

Call us to reserve your chicken!

The team at The Book

A6 7 1 W HETHER you're baking on the beach, flopped by the pool or hiding from the heat with the aircon cranked up, there’s no better time to dive into a cracking good read. And we’ve got you covered.

By Zoe Dahse

Shop in San Pedro de Alcantara has helped the Olive Press pick 10

BUTTER, Asako Yuzuki

big hit this year after being published in English, this 2017 Japanese novel which cleverly weaves themes of food with crime and trauma. Although be warned - the translated version does sometimes result in difficult reading!

THE COVENANT OF WATER,

Abraham Verghese

A700 page novel, enthusi astically recommended by the shop owner Alicia, it tells the story of a fam ily in the Indian state of Kerala, across three generations.

F

From poolside page-turners to air-con escapism, these top 10 books will keep you hooked all season long 3 5 4 DREAM COUNT, 8

THE LIFE IMPOSSIBLE, Matt Hai

ollow up to his bestseller The Midnight Library, this takes us to the beautiful island of Ibiza. Charting the journey of Grace, a retired maths

teacher who inherits a house in Ibiza and discovers her supernatural capabilities. A novel that interpolates ideas of magical realism.

GABRIEL’S MOON, William Boyd A

tale of cold war espionage, the novel centres on a young British journalist on assignment in Africa, and his ensuing travels and experiences around the world.

Asizzling summer reads guaranteed to keep you hooked. So it is time to lather on the sun cream, pour yourself an ice-cold drink, and turn the page on boredom. Here’s what to read this summer… Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie

beautifully told story about first loves, kisses, and disappointments, all told from the perspective of four Nigerian wom -

en - Adichie returns after a ten-year hiatus with a beautiful woven tale of power and love, exploring the possibilities of what could have been as life goes on.

November 29thDecember 12th 2023

HOT READS FOR A ROASTING SUMMER

ORobert Harris

ff the back of last year’s fantastic film starring Ralph Fiennes and Stanley Tucci, sales of this novel have since skyrocketed. As the recent conclave showed, the process of papal selection is a hot topic, especially all the infighting and politics behind it. A gripping read.

PAPAL: Ralph Fiennes starred in an adaptation last year

TOP OF THE WORLD

With interesting, yet unfussy, architecture and clever use of planting and water, you are in another world, a fecund paradise full of cascading

levels and subtle colours and furni-

You are also certainly a few steps closer to heaven at Cortijo 1962, a top floor restaurant with one of the most extraordinary dining terraces

Overlooking an amazing backdrop of mountains right down to the sea, from here you take in the Serrania de Ronda, Sierra Bermeja and even La Concha above Marbella. Squint and you’ll also see Africa, even on a grubby day, while you look down across the Cortijo-style roofs of the hotel.

I am firstly thrust a glass of bubbly, just €12 a pop, from Laurent Perrier and by royal appointment to the Prince of Wales, don’t you know. There’s cava by the glass, of course, as well, but champagne seems appropriate for €4 more.

Before you can blink, scallop tartare ‘eclairs’ and mussels in a Peruana tiger sauce are brought to the table, along with three types of local bread from Malaga with Cordoba olive oil. The wine list is carefully laid out over one page, unlike many of the long, complicated lists one expects of five star hotels these days. Handily, there are at least ten of them by the

ontinues to be a record breaking fantasy series, selling copies all the time in bookshops across the world.

Jon Clarke is mesmerised by the location, views and quality of the Cortijo Santa Maria 1962 restaurant in Sotogrande

glass, and it was good to some local wines, such as red from nearby Arcos de la Frontera.

The menu itself is a trawl of Andalu cian classics, things like suckling pig and grilled octopus, thankfully added to with the Conil tomato tartare, as well as an interesting sounding beef tiradito with blood orange and cucumber essence, at just €15.

able €115.

The first dish for all three is ‘Tuna

stylish food

Obviously there was Jamon Iberico ‘Belloterra’, as well as a good number of vegetarian dishes including roasted cauliflower and vegetable ravioli.

Just as I was licking my lips over the odd-sounding ‘transparent asparagus veil’ which apparently came with prawn tartare and dashi, I was entirely sold on the special summer tuna menu, with a decent number of classic blue fin tuna cuts from nearby Barbate. It is curated by France’s Michelin-star chef Nicolas Isnard, who has been overseeing the restaurant for a couple of years, alongside hotel executive chef Leandro Caballero, from Cordoba.

The Tuna Festival Asian Menu, as it’s called, is modelled on Japanese

and Takuan rose’ - a subtle starter of thin strips of tender tuna belly wrapped in an envelope of an oriental vegetable, called takuan. Coming in the shape of a rose, it sits on a bed of apple gel with dashi broth and needed a tiny touch of wasabi to really bring it to life. Next up was a tuna tartare with a citrus and kumquat sorbet and ‘kalamansi’ aroma. It rocked with flavours, but didn’t come near to the next dish, a tuna belly tartaki with a sprinkle of caviar on top and with mint pesto, sweetcorn and Thai pomelo as garnish. We were now onto the pudding courses, including the intriguing ‘Green tea, tamarind and cinnamon’ which was rather like having tea at granny’s - a real creamy treat.

There was also a rich rice pudding, but in no way did it compare to the wonderful cheese course.

Billed as ‘Andalucian cheese - a journey’, it even had its own well presented menu that explained the five cheeses from Sevilla, Cordoba, Cadiz and Malaga.

“We’ve been given a free reign to really push on,” explained chef Leandro, who comes from Pozoblanco, and one suspects can chew the cud for hours about Rabo de Toro and Salmorejo.

“Since joining a decade ago when it was the old Almenara it’s got better and better. These days I can really concentrate a lot more on quality and being experimental.”

The journey over, I got home with a big smile on the face.

956 922 911

O P LIVE RESS ANDALUCÍA

Ring and a prayer

Lucky lionesses

ACCORDING to Spanish women’s captain Peredes, the lionesses were ‘lucky throughout the Euros’. She told reporters her team was better, after losing in the penalties on Sunday.

No plonker

GORDON Ramsay has declared Spanish wine ‘in another league’ and ‘one of the hidden gems of the world’ saying for this reason the Iberian Peninsula vino has been on his menus for years.

Asian attack

THOUSANDS of tons of invasive seaweed from Asia are piling up in Gibraltar and Spain’s southern coast. In Cadiz, they’ve removed over 1,200 tons since May.

WALK THIS WAY

Ryanair draws outrage for its ‘humiliating’ tone on social media

A CHEEKY tweet from Ryanair has ignited a firestorm of criticism, with some branding the low-cost carrier’s tone as downright humiliating.

The message telling passengers to ‘walk to your destination if you don’t like our rules’ – posted with a chirpy ‘buenos días’ –has drawn sharp rebuke online. It was slammed as a brazen symbol of ‘low-cost capitalism at its crudest’ by Spanish Revolution, a grassroots activist group and content producer.

The tweet comes as no surprise to those familiar with Ryanair’s no-nonsense approach, but the sarcasm has struck a nerve.

Spanish Revolution argued it’s more than just a quip, suggesting the airline is peddling ‘humiliation as part of the product’ to people who can’t afford better, urging a general boycott.

“They transport a model of the world where everything goes if it’s cheap enough,” the account

By Walter Finch

fumed, tapping into growing frustration with hidden fees and strict baggage rules that have long irked travellers. Ryanair, a staple for Brits jetting to and from Spain’s costas, faced a €108m fine last year as part of a €179m penalty from Spanish authorities for charging for hand luggage and seat reservations – practices the airline insists keep fares low.

A 2022 European Commission study backs the discontent, revealing 68% of budget airline

A KEEN beachgoer has been caught on camera reserving his slice of paradise before the sun even had a chance to rise.

Footage from a weather cam at Playa del Cura in Torrevieja on the Costa Blanca shows the mystery man arriving at 5.36am – armed with nothing but determination and a beach umbrella. Within minutes, he was back with two sunbeds, and by 5.40am his seaside em-

passengers feel pressured into accepting extra costs.

EARLY BIRD

pire was fully established. But while his dedication is admirable (or mildly unhinged), there’s one problem – Torrevieja bans early furniture placement, with €150 fines for offenders. It seems he beat the sun... but may not outrun the town hall.

A MAN has been rescued from the Med after a bonkers attempt to cross one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes using nothing but an inflatable ring, a wetsuit and a pair of flippers.

Holidaymakers sailing off the Costa del Sol were stunned to spot what they thought was a bird or fish bobbing 20km south of Benalmadena - only to realise, through binoculars, it was a man struggling in open water.

The crew dragged him aboard and alerted Spain’s maritime rescue service. Wrapped in blankets and barely speaking, the mystery paddler had been attempting to swim from Morocco to Spain.