A focus on
Marbella’s sibling has finally had her glowup – and she’s now strutting down the Costa del Sol catwalk with the confidence of a supermodel
By Dilip Kuner
SAN Pedro Alcantara was once little more than a dusty stop-off on the way to Estepona or Gibraltar. But it has slowly but surely transformed, into the place everyone wants to be. Even the locals are turning their noses up at being called Marbellis . “No,
HEY LITTLE SISTER
no – we’re Sanpedreños ,” they say with a grin. And they’ve got plenty to be smug about.
“It’s the best part of Marbella to live in,” declares 52-year-old homemaker Elsa Romero, who knows a thing or two about moving around after decades in Germany and England before settling here.
“You’ve got everything – wonderful beaches, international schools, fantastic dining,” explains the mother-of-three who works in a lawyer’s office. “But none of the traffic chaos of Banus or Marbella centre. And the parking! You can always find a space. Honestly, that’s half the reason I stayed.”
Not long ago, that sort of statement would have had people rolling their eyes.
For years, San Pedro’s claim to fame was the N-340 traffic jam, a rolling car park
where tempers flared and exhaust fumes choked the town. Drivers could wait for more than an hour just to crawl past the dreaded Ronda junction. If your air-con packed up, you were doomed. The salvation came in the form of a tunnel burrowed under the town. Above it Marbella Town Hall splashed the cash on a gleaming new boulevard.
Out went the honking horns and endless queues, in came fountains, gardens, play areas and teenagers showing off their skateboarding tricks. It was like Cinderella swapping her rags for a ballgown. Suddenly, San Pedro had a heart, and it was beating to a far more glamorous rhythm.
But while the shiny newness grabs attention, scratch the surface and you’ll find plenty of history clinging on. Stroll along the boulevard and at either end you stumble across relics of a very different time. The Trapiche de Guadaiza sugar mill and the hamlet of El Ingenio, with its protected cottages and old distillery, tell the story of San Pedro’s origins as Spain’s most modern agricultural colony.
Back in 1860, the Marques del Duero and his formidable wife, the Marquess of Revilla, turned 5,000 hectares into a sugar empire. Nearly two dozen mills dotted the coast, with two of them right here. Workers streamed in from Valen-
Continues on next page
TRADITION: The Virgen del Carmen is carried to the sea in San Pedro
The beaches proudly fly blue flags, the global seal of excellence, while chiringuitos like Macaao and Playa Nini have become hotspots for the bronzed and beautiful. Order a cocktail and you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve stumbled into an Ibiza beach club.
cia, Murcia and Almeria, lured by the promise of jobs and prosperity. For decades, San Pedro’s lifeblood was sugar (see Sweetest barrio , p16) –sweet by name, sweet by nature. Fast forward to 2025 and sugar has been replaced by something equally addictive: lifestyle.
The palm-lined seafront promenade now connects seamlessly to Banus and Marbella, and it’s packed every morning with joggers in neon Lycra, cyclists who look Tour de Franceready, and dog walkers pulling double espressos.
What used to be a barren strip between the town and the sea is now wall-to-wall with shops, restaurants and sleek new apartment blocks. Fitness fanatics flock to the NAC Nueva Alcantara paddle and tennis club, while San Pedro now boasts something Marbella itself doesn’t – its very own flashy indoor sports stadium.
The Pabellon Sergio Scariolo, named after Spain’s legendary basketball coach, has already opened its doors, hosting matches, community events and enough slam dunks to make the NBA blush.
For newcomers, the appeal is obvious. “I came here for a month and
Hughes, a 34-year-old tech consultant from London who now works remotely from his apartment near the promenade.
“The internet’s fast, the cafes are full of laptops, and when I finish work I can go for a swim or a bike ride. My mates back home think I’ve retired early. I just tell them I’m working on my tan.”
Even young Spaniards are switching allegiance. “Before, people my age only wanted Banus,” says 28-yearold architect Maria Delgado, who moved from Malaga last year. “Now everyone wants San Pedro. It feels authentic, but still modern. And you can actually get some sleep.”
And then there’s Guadalmina, San Pedro’s leafy satellite suburb that looks like it’s been lifted straight out of Beverly Hills.
Guadalmina Baja is dripping with multi-million-euro mansions,
shaded by palm-lined avenues where former Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar is often spotted jogging – flanked by bodyguards struggling to keep up.
Across the A7, Guadalmina Alta has an 18-hole golf course and the coast’s only cable-ski lake, where thrill-seekers zip round on wakeboards. It’s Marbella, but with fewer paparazzi and a lot more privacy.
Irish retiree Debbie O’Connor,71, who’s lived in Guadalmina for over a decade, reckons it’s unbeatable. “I adore it here. You’re close to Marbella and Estepona, but without the madness of Banus. It’s perfect,” she says. Her only gripe? “The bodyguards never smile back.”
Despite more than €100 million of investment, San Pedro hasn’t lost its soul. Pensioners still gather on benches around St Peter’s statue outside the parish church, trading gossip in the shade.
Families still pack the ice cream parlours on Sunday evenings, and you can still hear the clang of church bells cutting through the summer air. Beneath the shiny boulevards and glamorous beach clubs, San Pedro remains, at heart, the same unpretentious town it was in its sugar cane days. That’s the magic of San Pedro: it has managed to reinvent itself without losing what made it special. It’s stylish, yes, but also welcoming. It’s modern, but steeped in history. And while Marbella continues to hog the headlines, San Pedro is quietly winning hearts. So don’t call it Marbella’s little sister anymore. She’s grown up, got herself a flashy new wardrobe, a shiny stadium, and a whole lot of confidence. And the locals? They’ll happily tell you:
“I’m not Marbelli. I’m Sanpedreño.”
SCENIC: in the town centre and historic sites by the beach
Ancient awesome
A Roman bathhouse and one of Spain’s oldest churches lie next to San Pedro’s beach, writes Jon Clarke
AS the lineup of SUVs edges slowly closer to the entrance of popular Calpe primary school each morning, one hopes the parents get a lift from the view off to the south.
For right there in plain sight is one of the true hidden gems of the Costa del Sol - the sixth century Basilica de Vega del Mar.
The remains of this Visigothic church - one of the oldest churches in Andalucia - is just a stone’s throw from the end of the popular promenade.
this is an intriguing doorway into pre-Islamic Spain.
The remains in Lindavista - along with the nearby Roman baths of Las Bovedas (below) - are on the site of the Roman settlement of Cilniana
While its exact location and size is lost in the mists of time, every year the coastal area gives up more clues, such as the beachside ovens appearing after a storm in November 2021.
The basilica was first discovered in 1915 by a farmer planting trees, but extensive excavations only began in 1929, led by archaeologist Jose Perez de Barradas.
He and his team mapped out the basilica and initially unearthed 148 tombs, though later excavations have found a total of over 200.
The most significant is that of ‘Constantine Crimson’, named
after the Holy Roman Emperor Constantine, which may be the oldest Christian tombstone yet to be discovered in Spain.
Protection
While the adjacent necropolis dates back to Roman rule in the fourth century, archaeologists disagree over the construction of the basilica.
Perez de Barradas initially believed it was built around then, although today historians insist it was built by the Visigoths from the north in the sixth century.
The significant features are its rectangular plan and the presence of three naves, along with its apses. Unlike most churches of the time, it has two apses, which are the semicircular terminations or recesses of an ecclesiastical building. And most unusually,
its western apse is its main one.
The basilica is usually open from 11.15 am to 2pm but it’s best to call Marbella’s Delegacion Municipal de Cultura on 952 825 035 to check.
Nearby, just across the stream by Macaao restaurant you will find
the remarkable Las Bovedas Roman bathhouse. Sitting on private land in someone’s garden, it is not often open to the public and you will need to ask when to visit. But it is a remarkable construction, in urgent need of protection and repair.
VISIGOTH TO ROMAN: Basilica and (top) Las Bovedas
For lovers of ancient history,
Looking a million dollars
HE’S the most expensive men's hairdresser in Spain… yet he arrived in the country with just a few hundred euros to his name soon after both his parents died.
Colombian Edward Medina - aka Silver - is the man the big celebrities and captains of industry turn to when they need to look a million dollars in Marbella. A host of sportsmen, singers and the super-rich bust a beeline to his door at Groomers & Ballers, in San Pedro Alcantara, to get their tresses cut, at up to €110 a pop.
They often even chauffeur him up to their luxury villas and five star hotels to snip their locks, paying him €350 a time! And then keep him on standby for days on end.
How Spain’s priciest barber rose from poverty, hustle and heartache to the heady heights of the Golden Mile of Marbella
But it wasn’t always this way for Medina, 26, who landed at Malaga airport from Cali, via Madrid, with just €210 and his suitcase in 2018.
After finding the sofa of a family friend to sleep on in Fuengirola, the 18-year-old headed out to buy a pair of hair clippers and other hairdressing paraphernalia with the idea of working door to door.
“I was alone and broke and, above all, hungry,” he tells the Olive Press. “I figured by investing in a pair of clippers I could go out and make some money.
“So I literally started going round knocking on doors. Looking for anyone who needed a trim.”
It didn’t always work, though, and some weeks went by when nobody was interested.
It was then that he took a whole range of jobs, mostly cash in hand, in gardening.
“Whatever I could get I took, but I never stopped wanting to be a barber, so on Saturday I always cut hair.”
As he got better and better at cutting hair he started to become in demand.
“I’d walk long distances, cutting hair in dingy
basements, poky flats, often in the kitchen… and usually for just €5 a time.
I realised I needed to keep the price down to get enough work.
“It meant I would often set off at 7am and sometimes not get back to 2am the next morning, but at least with some cash in my pocket!”
It was finally during COVID that a Moroccan family saw the potential of employing Edward in their newly opened barber shop in Marbella.
Run by a brother and sister from Tangier, they needed someone with the talent and vision of the Colombian cutter.
Now a rapidly rising urban grooming hub, it is expanding to open a new shop and even an academy, under Edward’s tutelage.
“He’s a huge inspiration to us all,” explains owner Amira Ben Said, 28, who studied at nearby Laude school, before going to university in Holland.
“I’ve rarely met anyone as hard working as Silver and with him we are able to build for the future.”
She continues: “We saw a gap in the market here, with men also loving the pampering, particularly with good quality products.”
This includes Tea Tree oil and Paul Mitchell products and wax that costs €30 a tub.
“We also realised that in a place like Marbella customer service is amazing and the old fashioned dirty barber
shops didn’t work.
“And we soon found out a lot of men liked having their nasal hairs cut as well as getting a manicure.”
And, as Amira adds: “A client will stop coming when you stop making them
feel special. At Groomers & Ballers we always go the extra few yards to guarantee that.”
Contact Groomers
TALENT: Now Edward is a teacher and charges up to €110 a time
RISING STAR: Edward began going door to door for €5 a cut
CURL UP AND ESCAPE
THE Autumn season always brings a wave of exciting new books, from long-awaited releases by beloved authors to the hidden gems already making readers talk.
It’s the season when publishers unveil some of their biggest titles, and there’s plenty to tempt every kind of reader.
The Secret of Secrets
by Dan Brown
Brown’s best, this thriller blends ancient mythology, cutting-edge science, and relentless suspense. Robert Langdon navigates a high stakes chase across Europe and New York, uncovering hidden truths and facing deadly adversaries. Fast-paced, intelligent, and gripping.
As the autumn weather draws in it’s always time for a couple of new books, writes Alicia
Duggan
Whether you’re in the mood for a gripping thriller, an uplifting novel, a steamy romantasy, or non-fiction that sparks new ideas, these are the stories set to define the months ahead.
Here’s my pick of the most popular and anticipated books this autumn, the ones you’ll want to add to your ever-growing ‘TBR’ pile.
This collection offers an unprecedented glimpse into Harper Lee’s evolution as a writer, combining early short fiction with later essays. Spanning Alabama schoolyards to mid-century Manhattan, it illuminates her voice, her reflections on politics, art, love, and the American South, and invites readers to rediscover the enduring creativity behind her classics.
A gripping new instalment in the beloved Strike and Ellacott series. Intricate, suspenseful, and richly atmospheric, it combines a twisting mystery with deep character drama, showcasing Galbraith’s (aka JK Rowling) masterful storytelling. Fans of the series will be enthralled from the first page to the last.
Always
Remember: The Boy, the Mole, the Fox, the Horse and the Storm by Charlie Mackesy
A heartfelt new adventure in the world of The Boy, the Mole, the Fox and the Horse. Featuring his beautiful, evocative illustrations, this much-anticipated follow-up combines warmth, wisdom, and gentle humour, celebrating friendship, resilience, and the small joys that help us navigate life’s storms.
Eat Yourself Healthy by Jamie
Oliver
A joyful, vibrant guide to better long-term health. With 120 mouthwatering recipes, a two-week meal plan, and 50 practical health hacks, Jamie shows that improving your wellbeing can be delicious, satisfying, and full of energy, a positive, achievable approach to long-term vitality.
Captivating readers of all ages with astonishing feats, quirky achievements, and record-breaking moments. A perennial favourite, this edition celebrates human ingenuity, endurance, and imagination, offering hours of fascination, inspiration, and jaw-dropping facts for curious minds.
The fourth instalment in the Woven Kingdom series brims with fiery romance, breathtaking magic, and high-stakes intrigue. Devastating choices, perilous journeys, and shattering secrets collide as love and loyalty are tested, delivering heart-stopping storytelling that fans of Sarah J. Maas, Leigh Bardugo, and Carissa Broadbent will adore.
The Thursday Murder Club is back in this unmissable new mystery. With weddings to plan, family troubles, and grief to navigate, Joyce, Elizabeth, Ron, and Ibrahim are drawn into their most explosive investigation yet. Full of wit, humour, suspense, and clever twists.
A masterful legal thriller blending high-stakes suspense, sharp courtroom drama, and unforgettable characters. Fans of Grisham’s signature style will find themselves riv-
eted from first page to last, as he delivers another compelling story of deception, danger, and the pursuit of justice.
The Hallmarked Man by Robert Galbraith
Guinness World Records 2026
The Widow by John Grisham
The Impossible Fortune by Richard Osman
Every Spiral of Fate by Tahereh Mafi
The Land of Sweet Forever by Harper Lee
SWEETEST BARRIO
IT is in the heat of the summer, in mid July, when she finally makes an appearance.
That is the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of fishermen in Spain. The beautiful wooden figurine is brought out from one of the oldest buildings in San Pedro, the celebrated Alcoholera, in the barrio of El Ingenio.
Atop the shoulders of two dozen local
By
An important Virgin and a historic link to rum-making from sugar cane make El Ingenio well worth a visit, writes Jon Clarke men and
Jon Clarke
A VERY RUM PAST: the Alcoholera once made Barcelo rum, while (below) snapshots from around 1900
opened in 1871 in San Pedro.
Heavily protected for its industrial significance, it is most striking for its 15.5 metre tower and eclectic Neo-Mudejar architecture. The former mill used to be one of 50 in Malaga province and was principally used
to make rum out of sugar cane.
Back then the land was owned by the Marques del Duero who had properties and estates all the way up the coast to Motril, in Granada. With the land not seen as productive for farming, it was mostly given up to growing sugar cane that ended up making liquor for companies, some that still survive to this day including Barcelo. An interesting display of photos and
plans from centuries past, plus one of the original sugar cane harvesting machines sits next to the nearby boulevard roundabout.
The Angel sugar factory, later known as the San Pedro Sugar Mill, continued to function until at least 1934 and is now a theatre and cultural centre.
This wonderful building anchors the centre of El Ingenio, a buzzing working class barrio, that was once full of fishermen and those that worked in the mill.
It is now home to the Olive Press newspaper, as well as a string of other well known companies, including Simply Shuttles and Immersion language school.
There is also a pottery studio, a boutique and various other shops including a bakery and ferreteria that’s been open for decades. There is also a wellstocked Spar.
The area’s beloved family-run restaurants, El Churrero and Bar Anon, have expanded their outdoor seating areas, where patrons can now dine surrounded by lush flower boxes and greenery. A
giant pepper tree provides natural shade, making the street a comfortable place to stroll and socialise.
Next to the sugar mill is a basketball and football pitch, plus a beach volleyball court.
Just a short 800 m walk to the
GROWTH: But in the 1960s, El Ingenio was well established
nearby Linda Vista beach, it has become one of the hippest areas to look for property in San Pedro and when homes become available they normally sell in days.
“It’s the most typically Spanish area and it keeps its roots,” explains Ana Troyano, boss of local agency iHome Property, that has covered San Pedro for decades.
“Even better, it’s nicely hidden away and little known.”
BURDEN: The Virgen del Carmen is carried around town and down to the sea, while (above right) the Marques del Duero who founded the agricultural colony
Wine Time
San Pedro has a great new wine bar where you can also eat well… and all day, discovers Jon Clarke
IT’S rare to find a wine bar where you can actually eat properly.
La Tizona in San Pedro Alcan tara is one such rarity.
Drinks-wise it is certainly hard to go wrong when the restaurant is owned by a wine importer and distribu tion company.
And El Cid has been providing Andalucia and further afield with
a range of top quality plonk since the early 1980s. At La Tizona you’ll find a few hundred references of what’s available from the nearby bodegas of Ronda to the faraway chestnuts of Mendoza, in Argentina. Even better, there are over two dozen available by the glass including a Sauvignon from Italy (Saude) and a Pinot Noir (Domaine de l’Aigle) from Valle de l’Aude in France. And the wine list also changes every few weeks, while it counts on one of Spain's best beers by the glass, Ambar, one of only two independent breweries left, owner Agustin tells me.
all-day kitchen and an adventurous menu that matches its wine.
It also has one of the nicest terraces in town, a superb place to watch the world go by.
Keep an eye out for Agustin, a well known padel player, who knows a lot about the local
But that’s not my favourite thing about La Tizona, which has been open in the heart of San Pedro for a few years now. This strategic spot has an culinary scene.
“We know how important it is to serve up quality dishes and ingredients as San Pedro keeps going further and further upmarket,” he explains.
Menu-wise it has a big range of things: great Iberian ham, superb local cheeses and a good mix of starters including a cold salmorejo soup from Cordoba and a guacamole with garlic octopus and smoked chili sauce.
I really liked the Gildas with an olive, pepper and anchovy and truffled Iberian burrata, tomato, oysters, with an avocado and smoked fish salad.
There was a decent range of specials of the day including poached leeks in olives with chives in lime juice cooked in a wood oven very slowly. Another special was the rabo de toro (oxtail), nicely braised and served with puree potato. Next up we had the avocado and smoked fish salad, which was salmon, cod and trout and should have been a disaster but actually somehow worked really well.
To finish I tried the lovely blue cheese Stilton soaked in a Pedro Ximenez from Huelva for 90 days. Talk about punch. I was still tasting it the following day. Lucky I like strong cheeses! For more information visit www.latizona.com
CHEESE AND WINE: and plenty more at La Tizona
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100 POINT HEAVEN
Turn your head and a new restaurant has opened in San Pedro Alcantara, writes Jon Clarke
By Jon Clarke
years now, I’m a huge fan of the rapidly developing food scene here: A new joint opens every month, with La Barquita fish restaurant, Tafi, an Argentinian ‘parilla’ and Degusto three of my favourite newbies.
Take the words of Ross Duggan, the man behind the busiest Irish pub in town, the Hogan Stand, that serves up a terrific Guiness and great grub.
“San Pedro has a completeanywhere else in town. I particularly enjoyed the simplicity of La Barquita , where you will rarely eat as good a prawn pil pil, with just the right spice, garlic and chorizo sauce. Also go for their tomatoes ‘alinados’ when in season and the razor shells that were caught fresh that morning in Malaga.
This is all about simple, fresh ingredients and with some buzzing flamenco music and friendly service it’s hard to go wrong.
Stepping up a notch is La Bodega del Cantinero on the next corner.
Aside from having the best selection of sherries in Europe (there’s only one place in Japan ly different atmosphere these days,” he explains. “Long gone are the scruffy builders and fraudsters and now it’s all about quality.” And he knows best, with his fish and chips and rack of lamb as good as
MASTERCHEF: Marina and wonderful artichokes at La Bodega del Cantinero
apparently that trumps it), the food here is also excellent. This is thanks to owner Al berto and his Ukrainian wife, Marina, who have re ally focused on the quality of the kitchen and, in particular, the in gredients over the last few years.
A real haunt of celebrities, politicians and captains of in dustry, Alberto, a sommelier by trade, stocks all of the 100/100 point sherries in the world, according to American critic Robert Parker. It is an amazing feat and many of them are
as understandably, thanks to Marina’s background, one of the best Ensaladilla Kyiv’s in Malaga. It is not always on offer but Cantinero often serves up a mean dessert of mature stilton, with a bottle of vintage Pedro Ximenez decanted into it.
“It takes 30 days to completely soak in,” explains Alberto. “And it sells out fast.”
Also in the centre of town look out for La Tizona (see separate review), which serves up the best wines of Spain of a different kind.
usually available by the glass (for a price!), as well as plenty of other chestnuts such as a 30-year-old Oloroso, from Bodegas Tradicion (earning a ‘98’ from Parker), which at €14 is a bargain.
Grab a glass of this alongside a splendid tuna tartare or a generous serving of rabo de toro oxtail, as tender as any served in Cordoba, and you’ll be close to heaven.
I also recommend the clams, as well
Effectively a wine bar, it has developed an excellent menu over the last year, which well compliments its wines, that come courtesy of one of the biggest wine distributors on the coast, El Cid.
They also own fishing boats so you will definitely eat great fish
door.
Heading down to the beach you are spoilt for choice with a string of chiringuitos, some more established than others.
El Ancla has been here for years and is run by the oldest expat family, who arrived from Scotland nearly a century ago. They also own fishing boats so you will definitely eat great fish, not to mention love the ambience of the place, an old factory right by the sea, replete with its own seawater swimming pool. It’s a bit pricey, as is my other favourite stalwart, Macaao, almost next
Run by the Dhondt family,
from Belgium, the fantastic service is only matched by the food, in particular, the black cod and hake, which is among the best fish on the coast. Their specials often include mussels, predictably perhaps being Belgians, while I am always a sucker for his crunchy Vietnamese nems, which come out on a bed of lettuce and mint.
Over in Guadalmina, you will find another great place to sip wine and watch the world go by with a few decent tapas. Nicolas is part of the centuries-old
French wine chain, with dozens available by the glass and hundreds of different bottles of Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux to boot.
There are three local shops on the Costa del Sol, owned and run by husband and wife team, Pierre-Carlos and Georgina Galvan.
Part-French, part-Mexican, they have a great taste for cheeses, plus pates and other delicacies.
“We try to find a bottle to match everyone’s taste and budget,” explains Pierre.
SERVICE WITH A SMILE: Pil Pil at La Barquita
