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Pastilla paradise

VARIETY: C’an Pastilla has so much to offer from stylish beach clubs to watersports and great restaurants

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The thriving again resort of C’an Pastilla has come a long way from its humble origins, writes Joe Duggan and Gillian Keller

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T’S been one of Spain’s most popular tourist destinations for decades. And it’s easy to see why. The golden, gentle curl of its main beach, its nearby coves and its superb links to Palma and its airport make C’an Pastilla the ideal holiday spot.

In fact, with the airport just a five-minute drive away, sun-seeking tourists can maximise every minute of a long weekend break away.

But there is something else going on in this once sleepy fishing village.

With large-scale investment pouring into the Playa de Palma area, the place is becoming trendy again.

“We have something incredible here,” said Engel & Völkers director Terence Panton. “We are close to the airport, a golf course, the beach and close to the capital of the Balearic Islands.”

Where it once had its legendary Cockroach alley, now it has trendy new tapas bars and restaurants like Fins and Rumbo Fiso, with new hotels sprouting up by the month.

Mass tourism first arrived here in the 1960s, when the first waves of British travellers began arriving at the resort.

Becoming one of the island’s most popular resorts in the 1970s and 1980s, it was later overtaken by nearby S’Arenal and Magaluf, which were more specifically purpose-built for modern mass tourism.

Metamorphosis It then went through something of a crisis of confidence a decade or two ago, but is now very much back and kicking, as locals and tourists alike realise what an interesting mix of buildings and residents it has.

Walking around its streets today is like a journey around the world, hearing different accents every 20 paces. No nationality dominates and there are equal numbers of Germans and English, with plenty of Scandinavian, Italian, as well as French and even Eastern Europeans.

Few places better typify this than the legendary El Ancla bar, whose waitresses herald from Colombia, Romania, Morocco and good old Blighty, where owner Sue originally heralds.

C’an Pastilla’s metamorphosis into a family-friendly tourist town mirrors the extraordinary changes tourism brought to Spain. The arrival of wealth being the main one.

In 1918, local businessman Bartolome Riutort built the Hotel C’an Pastilla, which the town takes its name from.

Aiming to develop the area, the tiny town began to take shape be-

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COASTAL GEM From Page 13 tween 1920 and 1925.

Riutort - after whom the town’s main street is named - persuaded local landowners the Ripoll brothers - who ran the nearby Sa Torre Rodona finca - to give land to the Catholic Church to build a new place of worship.

A 30-metres by 12-metres plot, situated where the town’s main square is, was earmarked. The land was then exchanged for a larger plot, measuring some 970 square metres, ample enough for a church and a rector’s house.

On the feast of St. Anthony of Padua in 1927, Bishop Gabriel Llompart blessed and laid the foundation stone of the new church, San Antonio de la Playa.

Although the main drag Avenida Bartolomé Riutort is bustling now, it wasn’t always like that, as local bar owner Lorenzo Bover says.

“Sixty or seventy years ago there was nothing here. Maybe only two or three houses on this street,” says Bover, who has run the family-owned Maracaibo restaurant for 44 years.

“There was a lot of poverty. People worked in orchards. One of my grandfathers left for Cuba in the 1920s and the other for Argentina.”

Things started to improve. Following the laying of the first stone, donations from local parishioners and the canon allowed the building to grow. And as the church grew, so too did the town.

Poverty remained a problem during the lean post-Civil War years, with many locals taking to smuggling contraband tobacco from Morocco, according to Bover.

One of Playa de Palma’s oldest hotels, the San Francisco, was built in the 1950s as local tourism began to grow.

But Riutort’s foundations really began to take shape during the 1960s, when the area boomed. Hotels like the Alexandra, built in 1967, shot up bringing thousands of sun-seeking British holidaymakers to the resort.

C’an Pastila’s proximity to the airport made it the ideal location for tourists landing in Palma, but as transport and road links around the island improved, visitors started venturing further afield.

However, such is the area’s enduring popularity that the same visitors are seen year after year, as The Manchester Pub’s owners, the Hankes, know well.

“We’ve been here 34 years and you see the same people coming back year after year,” explains Tracey, who runs the pub with brother Darren and dad Ray. “It’s definitely going more upmarket now. A lot of hotels have been renovated. It’s also a very international resort.”

No doubt Riutort would rub his eyes in delight at the modern pastimes taking place in his beloved C’an Pastilla.

Wind and kite-surfing are popular pastimes here, with the beach’s geometry making it perfect for watersports, as Bona ona worker Toni Rosabel explains.

“The break points here are good for waves,” he said, predicting good surf conditions for the coming weekend.

“We have surfers coming all year round and the island is a great spot for surfers

BUZZING: At night the place comes alive with musicians in the streets and interesting locals

C’AN PASTILLA CONVENIENCE

One of the best things about living in C’an Pastilla is the incredibly short commute to the airport; nothing beats flopping on the couch minutes after landing.

It is also the perfect place to come and wait, have supper, or a drink while you wait for your loved ones to arrive at the airport, just a five minute drive away.

Plenty of the local bars regularly see residents stopping off to kill time on their way to the airport, while its range of new and exciting bars and restaurants opening means its a great spot to come for supper or lunch after picking people up.

The second advantage of Can Pastilla is the convenience of the bus line to both the airport and into Palma, with plenty of people parking nearby and taking the bus.

SUN AND SAND: The beaches in C’an Pastilla are fabulous with (inset) a serious sand castle and (above) its train

in general.”

The spectacular beach which connects onto Playa de Palma draws sunseekers from all over Europe, with British, German and Scandinavian holidaymakers.

These days it is certainly a long way

from fifty years previously, when locals would take intrepid tourists for a Lawrence of Arabia-style camel ride across the golden sands.

Next to it, the modern-day marina at Club Nautico San Antonio de la Playa,

with its rows of sleek yachts bobbing in the harbour, nestles in between Cala Estancia and Playa de Palma.

Although not quite on big brother Palma’s impressive scale, the boats on display, many of them locally owned,

are - with the Club Maritimo bar offering hearty fare for intrepid seafarers.

For weary landlubbers, the mini train that runs along the promenade from C’an Pastilla to Arenal is the perfect way to spare aching joints.

And for the more active, the superb cycle track that reaches down from C’an Pastilla to Palma attracts lycra-clad riders and day tourists out for a simple ride.

A short walk from the port, you will find Palma Aquarium, the ideal day trip for all the family. Its Shark Vision Boat is not for the fainthearted. The seethrough-bottom vessel allows groups to admire the 11 sharks that swim in one of the aquarium’s pools.

On terra firma, you can get a better look of the sand tiger and sandbar sharks.

And if that’s not close enough, you can watch one of the aquarium experts share interesting information about their fish while feeding them.

If it’s more visceral water thrills you are after, nearby Arenal’s Aqualand is a water park where the kids will have a great time.

So whether it’s on land or water, there is something for everyone at this everpopular coastal gem.

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OFFSHORE CEREMONIAL SITE

THE tiny island of na Galera, off C’an Pastilla, is a remarkable piece of undisturbed history slowly being understood.

In 2012, local archaeologists began excavating after a human skeleton (left) was found.

A lot has been found since including items dating back to the Punic era, as long ago as 400 BC. Experts now believe the inlet was a ceremonial site where ships travelling from Ibiza made offerings for a safe journey.

In the Can

AFTER 17 years in the C’an Pastilla property market, estate agent Cristobal Grosjean is as well placed as anyone to gauge the local market.

His company, Inmo Can Pastilla, one of the longest-running local real estate agents, specialises in properties around Can Pastilla, Cala Estancia and parts of Playa de Palma.

Fluent in German, French, Spanish, English and with some Catalan, Cristobal’s expertise has allowed him to know the market as well as anyone.

“We have seen a lot of changes, seen the market go up and down,” he said.

The huge surge in demand for property across the island has recently seen prices rise around Can Pastilla.

And with strong interest from British, Scandinavian and German buyers, the area’s easy access to the airport and Palma makes it one of the island’s property hotspots.

“Normally clients are looking to buy somewhere for around €100,000 to €150,000,” he said.

“Right now, there are not many of those but maybe in the future things will change.

“But you can see why people want to be here. Can Pastilla has something special.

“There is life throughout the year, and it’s big enough that you don’t have that feeling of a village. I think prices will continue to go up.”

Contact: cristobal@inmocanpastilla.com or call 0034 971 26 27 02

As well as numerous pieces of pottery, an urn was found with human remains dating back to the third century BC. The team has also uncovered the base of two temples.

The first was built in the fourth century BC and destroyed in the first Punic war, and the second built to replace it.

There has also been an unusual amount of bird bones found, but with no real hypothesis for the strange find.

Anyone interested can head out to the island most Saturdays with a donation of €10.

Playa de Palma paradise

The area is coming up fast, explains leading agent Terence Panton

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T is fast becoming one of the most sought-after areas in Mallorca.

The stunning transformation of Playa de Palma is predicted to cause a property boom, as this scenic coastal spot continues to flourish.

With huge investment com-

HAPPY: Panton (in light suit) at launch party

ing in, Engel & Völkers director Terence Panton believes these are exciting times for the fivekm-long stretch of the coast, which goes from C’an Pastilla to S’Arenal.

He believes the changes could see the area becoming Palma’s answer to South Beach,

in Miami. city centre.

Internationally renowned real The consistent upgrading of estate agency Engel & Völkers hotels to four and five stars has has just opened its first office in given the area a stylish makethe area - its seventh in Mallorover. ca - and Panton believes Playa And with a fine selection of de Palma is already enjoying quality, reasonably priced resreal ‘momentum’. taurants and outdoor leisure “The area will develop within activities, such as cycling, windthe next five years,” Panton told surfing and kite-surfing, this is the Olive Press. the ideal loca“The question is tion for a family not ‘if’ anymore. apartment.

Absolutely not.

With prices in This is a place The question is Palma out of where you can ‘when’. some people’s “This is a place budgets, now still get value for where you can is the ideal money still get value for time to snap money and in up a property terms of prices in Playa de hitting their Palma, says peak, three to five years is the Panton, with buyers’ investbest case, with the worst case ments only increasing in value five to ten years.” over time. “It is still Palma and With government and local the beach here is the city’s best business owners working tobeach,” said Panton, adding: gether to improve the area, “Let’s face it: you don’t have a property prices have been risbeach right next to you in Santa ing over the past three years.

Catalina or the Old Town.” You Leading the charge has been can get a first-line apartment Palma Beach Consortium, from €250,000 with a fantastic which has helped to inject milview of the sea. “If you buy now, lions of euros into the Playa de you will reap the rewards within Palma area, situated a short a few years,” he insists. Call the ten-minute drive from Palma office on 971 412 925.

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Riding the wave!

The surf school that made C’an Pastilla cool again, writes Gillian Keller

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OU can’t spend a day in C’an Pastilla without seeing a group of paddleboarders or windsurfers heading into the briny.

All year round watersports lovers, including surfers and kitesurfers, head out to play around in the waves near the San Antonio Marina.

You’re bound to spot under fives and adults well into their eighties riding out on a board… and even the occasional dog can be spotted going for a ride.

Much of this is thanks to Cristina Rozalen who launched the island’s coolest surfer bar and surf school, Bona Ona, after spending a number of years in California.

Bona Ona has brought a unique slice of chilled-out, laid-back, surfer vibes to Can Pastilla, especially now it has been joined by a number of other rival businesses.

Since opening seven years ago, Bona Ona has become a hangout for surfers, stand-up paddle boarders (SUP) and windsurfers.

Locals and tourists alike stop by to rent boards and book lessons, or just to hang out in this stylish spot.

“Nothing is as easy as it looks,” says the mother-of-two, whose two brothers, Victor and Fran, help run the business. “But it is definitely worth the effort and I love the waves.”

Herself a surfer, pictured riding a wave on the company brochure, she knows all the best surf breaks on the island and is available to offer tours and lessons.

The school has a 12-person stand-up paddle board for rent, paddle tours through caves or sunset tours, summer camps, and stand-up

WATER WINGS: Paddleboarders enjoy an outing, while (top right) Bona Ona paddle yoga.

The company has also just expanded over the road to Samoa Beach cafe, which helps when the bar throws one of their big neighbourhood parties.

This Thursday (June 8) is their full moon party which will begin with a party at the bars during the afternoon followed by a paddle around Can Pastilla under the full moon.

Bona Ona supports many charities around the world, raising money through the bar and the events they throw. They currently sell bracelets supporting Red School Uganda, a charity funding a much needed school, and Thursday’s party with raise money for the cause.

Visit www.surfschoolmallorca.com for more information

Pedal power CYCLING has become synonymous with Mallorca.

From the Tour-de-France-winning Team Sky team, to amateur enthusiasts, the island has become a mecca for lovers of pedal power.

C’an Pastilla makes a fine base for riders of all ilk. With an increasing number of bike-friendly hotels, and good access to local cycle routes, riders can strike out across the island.

At local bike shop Pearl Izumi Alvaro Arizaleta has seen cycling royalty pass through the doors.

“Bradley Wiggins, Chris Froome and the Team Sky team have all been in ,” he says.

“We had one of the Sky mechanics in just a few days ago.”

Of course, the soaring Mallorca peaks scaled by Britain’s Tour De France winners aren’t for everyone. So the flat, 10-mile bike path which runs through C’an Pastilla has been a huge hit with cyclists of all abilities.

Hugging the scenic coastline, the paseo maritimo stretches

Summer Camp

Surf

CYCLE FRIENDLY: The beachfront in C’an Pastilla from S’Arenal to Palma, gliding past Palma’s cathedral and the Parque del Mar. From here, it strikes east past the former fishing village of Portixol before reaching the sandy expanse of Ciudad Jardin’s beaches.

Ride past El Molinar and on to C’an Pastilla, for a gentle journey that cyclists of all ages can

REGULAR: Sky cyclist Chris Froome

navigate. It’s quick, too.

“I live in Palma old Town and it take me just 30 minutes to cycle here to C’an Pastilla,” says Alvaro.

“If some days I have to take my car it is very frustrating as I have to spend time and money parking.”

To add to the allure, hotels around C’an Pastilla are becoming increasingly cycle friendly. AS more and more cyclists come to the island, the pedal pound has become a boon for business.

“The cycling boom has extended the holiday season,” said The Manchester Pub’s Darren Hankes.

“The cyclists start coming around March and then in September, when it is cooler.

“It’s also helped rejuvenate small villages nearby, which had died out because the motorway bypassed them, but now cyclists are riding through them.”

Windsurf

Weekend Courses – Surf & SUP

Bonaona Mallorca - Surf School & Surf Café Bar Carrer Palangres, 7 – 07610 Can Pastilla – Palma de Mallorca bonaonamallorca@gmail.com – Tel: 971 261 261 – Mob: 619 749 271

www.surfschoolmallorca.com

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WORLDLY STAFF: El Ancla barmaids from Colombia and eastern Europe

THE AUTHENTIC ANCHOR!

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’an Pastilla has come a long way from it’s village days. From just a few houses along the shore, it now boasts a wealth of fantastic restaurants and unique bars. It’s no wonder tourists and Islanders alike flock to the cool town all year around.

IT is easily one of the most unusual and original bars on the island.

Sitting overlooking the sea, beside the marina, El Ancla (The Anchor) is a late night spot busy for most of the year.

Unique for its incredible mix of nationalities and races, on any given night there are a dozen languages and cultures mixing, including many expats who travel across the island for this special bar.

Well established for 18 years, serving an array of drinks and cocktails alongside shisha pipes and international tapas.

The chilled-out vibe and welcoming atmosphere has attracted customers from all walks of life since the beginning.

Set up by a British businesswoman, its waitresses herald from around the world, including east Europe, Colombia and Morocco.

Star Fresco

Can Pastilla’s newest ice cream shop is not just delicious but more than your average summer pit stop.

The Italian artisan gelateria hand makes their own cream flavours daily, with a dozen fresh options from black chocolate to fresh mint. They also make fresh smoothies and milkshakes to make any summer day cooler.

Surf and turf TOP TUCKER: At Fins

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E’S navigated ten-foot swells as an international surfer, now restaurateur Edmond is making a splash in C’an Pastilla’s foodie scene.

Fins Tapas & Cocktails is one of the coolest eateries in the resort - and wouldn’t be out of place in Palma; its blend of tasty cuisine and hip cocktails is the perfect way to round off a day beside the Mediterranean’s swell.

For Barcelona-native Edmond, Fins has allowed him to bring together the gastronomic influences he tapped into as a globe-trotting surfer.

“I opened Fins two and a half years. The restaurant is themed around surf. Mallorca is a great place to surf,” he says.

“The food is very international, with a very creative menu. Steak tartare and

DELICIOUS: Burger and chips at Fins

plenty of dishes that I enjoyed while surfing around the world, but I have adapted them for Mallorca.”

It’s a classic family affair with his girlfriend working behind the bar and her mum in the kitchen, while he even has a hardy Scot doing her bit for the expat hordes.

Beach boy Edmond spent two and a half years hitting the waves in California, before heading to the north of France - ‘Great surf, but very cold’, then in Bali.

On the walls, a photo of Edmond riding a wave sits alongside a surfer’s sleek board, its fins jutting out proudly.

As he speaks, trays of appetising food - jamon Iberico and croquettes - are ferried from the kitchen to the terrace. “We have a full cocktail list, and serve drinks until 2 am at the weekend,” said Edmond.

“Negroni, Pina Colada, Caipirinha. We play deep and chillout house, a real beach bar vibe.”

And with Edmond a regular at Mallorca’s surfing hotspots, he’s just at home in the waves as he is in the kitchen or bar.

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It’s cooking

C’an Pastilla is starting to see a culinary revolution, writes food critic Jon Clarke

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HISPER it quietly… there is something going on in C’an Pastilla.

The previously old-fashioned resort is cooking - yes, truly on fire - with new restaurants and bars opening by the week, it seems.

Best of all, these are not your average expat-run, fish and chips-style diners… there are mostly gourmet-focussed places, each with their own unique selling point.

While staying for a month, earlier this year, I was amazed to discover a mix of eateries, that offered amazing tapas, creative cuisine and even top class sushi.

Among the hundreds of places to dine was a Cuban place, a Mexican joint and the obligatory Indian, not to mention a Thai, a Chinese and an Argentinian steak house.

And then I found - what was once known as ‘Cockroach alley’ - with two amazing new places, Fins and Rumbo Fijo.

Sitting cheek by jowl, they best epitomise the change that is taking place in the resort.

Both alluring in the extreme, they have style in spades, and magicians in their kitchens.

The Rumbo Fijo team come from Madrid and include boss-

TALENTED: Team at Rombo Fijo, their foie dish and (left) Samoa Beach es Jorge Fijo and Begona Arroyo, with Juanjo and Pablo in key supporting roles.

Set around a charming patio garden, it serves up a great mix of tapas and dishes with loads of specials on the giant blackboard inside.

There are two big jamons ready to be carved on the bar and the wine list is particularly good, thanks to various members of the team, who have been sommeliers.

Apart from a good mix of Riojas and Ribera del Dueros there

BEST PIZZAS: At Italian Soul Cafe

Calle Cesar 10, Can Pastilla, 07610, Palma de Mallorca tel: +34 971 26 31 96

are plenty of Mallorca wines and a great albarino and even champagne by the glass.

I particularly liked the foie with fresh mango and a sprinkle of burnt caramel on top as well as the ‘salteado de setas’, a delicious plate of grilled mushrooms with jamon iberico.

Next door, expect to be amazed

by Fins, set up by Barcelona native Edmond, a keen surfer, who has various businesses on the island.

Stylishly-lit and well designed, with plenty of plants and attitude, this is a place you just want to dive into, and you do generally need to book.

The menu is a decent range of local and international dishes, with the steak tartare a sure fire winner, as well as the incredible chicken and pistachio croquettes, served with mustard.

Chef Maria Jose, from Albacete, does a great tartaki of tuna, as well as the best patatas bravas I have tasted outside Barcelona.

Around the corner you will find easily the best Italian restaurant in the area, the Soul Cafe.

This cool spot is one of the genuine hives and is busy from opening to closing time.

And it is no wonder with the fantastic attention to detail from its staff and great mix of pasta dishes, along with the best pizzas around. Some of them are gluten-free.

There is also a range of Spanish tapas and no less than 40 different cocktails.

And then there is more, with the recently opened Samoa Beach, next to its sister establishment Bona Ona. This is one hell of a spot to spend the evening, dining looking over the sea and it feels quite authentically Mallorcan.

With its brushed concrete floors, wooden tables and African style plates it has a cool vibe, plus its dishes, including a fabulous wok with prawns and vegetables, was excellent.

Watch this space… it will only get better.

Last but not least, look out for Finca del Mar, which sits on the front, run by an Italian Swiss called Bagnoni, which is a good spot to eat steaks or decent

fish and watch the windsurfers and kitesurfers buzz by.

Jon Clarke has written many travel and food articles for the Daily Mail and was described by Gordon Ramsay as ‘Andalucia’s leading food critic’

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