Taste & Flair December 2023 by The Malta Independent

ISSUE 161 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

DECEMBER 2023

THE Christmas issue

T&F EDITORIAL Micheal Diacono’s Porcini and Apple Orzotto photo by Brian Grech. See feature starting on page 14

welcome

The Christmas issue of Taste&Flair is an annual favourite for no less reason that it fills our days with pleasant thoughts and memories of good times: the warmth of gatherings large or small, a meal shared, the anticipation of festivities and the irresistible excitement of children counting down to the arrival of Christmas Eve. We’ve included a little bit of everything that can bring you joy. Michael Diacono’s sumptuous feast, Claire Borg’s party platters, ways to use up leftovers to spread the pleasure of a culinary feast over several days, Andrew Azzopardi’s advice on the art of wine when hosting guests, Gabriela and Tippa’s magical (and practical) organic Christmas wreaths and Megan Mallia’s snapshot of a lesser known Christmas flower. In our design pages we visit two seaside homes: a centuries old house in one of Malta’s walled cities and a newly built penthouse in the heart of the island’s busy centre. We’ll be taking a break for now and will be back in February. We wish you a peaceful Christmas and may your 2024 be filled with colour and light. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director

Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant

Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888

The Adoration of the Kings (Matthew 2: 11), Jan Gossaert, c.1510-15. – Gossaert likely created the large oil on oak altarpiece for the abbey of St Adrian at Geraardsbergen in East Flanders. In 1911, it was acquired by the National Gallery in London where it has remained ever since. Gossart signed the painting on the hat worn by Balthasar (left) and on the silver collar of his attendant.

ISSUE 161 DECEMBER 2023

*The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

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T&F CONTENTS

CONTENTS pg32

pg46

Unashamedly festive Michael Diacono’s sumptuous spread

The perfect host pg24

Andrew Azzopardi on creating memorable moments

The day after

Keep the seasonal cheer going

Party time

Claire Borg’s catering for convivial gatherings

Home from home Designed for living pg16

Behind the city walls At home in Birgu

A wreath for Christmas The origins of a tradition

Blooming beautiful The Christmas Star Orchid

pg60

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pg70

The Ceramic pots & bakeware

that bring family and friends together!

Exclusively available at:

ST. PAUL'S BAY | PAOLA | VALLETTA | VICTORIA, GOZO +356 2157 7305

info@cateringcentre.com

cateringcentre.com

T&F CHRISTMAS

GIFTING

THIS SEASON

Delight your loved ones with meaningful gifts and personalized treasures that cater to their tastes and enhance their daily lives. Indulge their senses with carefully curated food and drink gifts, or bring warmth to their living spaces with thoughtful home decor.

Santa Maria Novella - The Melograno Collection. Santa Maria Novella is one of those exquisite brands that requires no introductions. Every scent, every bottle, every bar of soap, is a feast for the senses. The Melograno series of products is one of its signature scents, available as an eau de cologne, soap bars, room fragrance, bath gel and more. Products starting from: €28 (wax tablets). Available at camilleriparismode.

Vista Alegre - Herbariae Parade, Centrepiece 9 Piece Set: €3125. The Herbariae Parade is a 9-piece set, which can, however, be purchased as individual pieces or as a smaller composition. Inspired by 17th century French court table centrepieces. Individual pieces starting from: €118. Available at camilleriparismode.

Meridiana Wine Estate’s Nexus DOK Malta is a premium red wine made exclusively from hand-picked locally grown Merlot grapes. Nexus has a clear, deep, purple-red colour; intense, ripe, cherry-plum aromas; and rich, well-structured fruit flavours with soft tannins and a long finish. For more information about Meridiana’s complete range of wines, please visit www.meridiana.com.mt or you may also find us on Facebook. Trade enquiries: S. Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

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If you’re on the hunt for bespoke personalised gifts and hampers filled with extraordinary premium quality and artisan products that truly stand out, then the Dical House flagship Store in Triq San Anton Abbati, Mosta is the place to visit. The outlet is open all day, every day during the festive season including public holidays (half-days during special days such as Christmas Eve or Christmas day) and can also be easily found by means of google maps. Suggested hampers can be seen on the website www.dicalhouse. com but each one can be customised according to your taste and budget. Dical House hampers can also be delivered anywhere in Malta and Gozo. Just be sure to think ahead to avoid disappointment as certain items will be gone well before Christmas. Contact details: tel. 21424600/1 foods@dicalgroup.com

CHRISTMAS T&F

COTE NOIRE - TWELVE WHITE ROSES, IN A BLACK BOX WITH GOLD. This beautiful life-like rose arrangement has been set in gel infused with a fine fragrance. Each flower is skillfully hand crafted and uses a special, natural coating to give every petal a natural touch and appearance. Enclosed with your natural touch roses are two bottles of scented perfume, which you can spray directly onto the roses to refresh and enhance the scent. Beautifully packaged in a striking hand-made round box. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler in Labour Avenue, Naxxar. Tel: +356 2740 6407.

COTE NOIRE - CARMINE RED ROSES IN A BLACK VASE, WITH A RED BOX WITH GOLD. Taking inspiration from the idyllic Charente countryside, COTE NOIRE have created a range of full-bodied fragrances with each scent striving to capture a portrait of traditional French life. The fragrances encompass patisserie favourites, fragrant teas, succulent fruits and enticing florals. The flowers have been skillfully hand crafted using a special, natural coating to give every petal a life-like touch & appearance. The petals have been infused with fine fragrance. This Luxury Grand Bouquet is beautifully packaged in a ribboned Cote Noire box. Enclosed are two bottles of scented perfume, which you can spray directly onto the roses to refresh and enhance the scent. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler in Labour Avenue, Naxxar. Tel: +356 2740 6407.

Perfect for indoor and outdoor use, the NUDE Ilo Candle Holder (available in three different sizes) comprises a clear crystalline dome, enriched with a hand-engraved ripple pattern, resting atop a light-reflective copper base. Crafted to the highest standard from pure lead-free crystal, the sculptural dome can be used alone or combined with other pieces from the range for a captivating effect. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler in Labour Avenue, Naxxar. Tel: +356 2740 6407.

PERFUME MIST DIFFUSER - LIGHT & GOLD EDITION. The Gold & Light Edition mist diffuser creates an elegant and perfumed atmosphere. Its gilt metal finery and mysterious lighting effects bring a chic ethnic touch to your interior. Its remote control allows you to vary the light intensities and remotely control the diffusion time of your scented atmosphere (choose a diffusion alternately every 15s or non-stop streaming). Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler in Labour Avenue, Naxxar. Tel: +356 2740 6407.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

GIFTING

Florim’s latest collection, STONE LIFE, boasts a strikingly simple and contemporary aesthetic, with a palette of warm and neutral tones that are perfectly suited to both versatile and minimalist interiors. Available from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149.

Apart from a myriad of the most exclusive foods and confectionery, Dical House, of Triq San Anton Abbati Mosta, also boasts a very well stocked wine and spirits cellar with various quality labels and rare ones brought together in one precious space. One can decide to combine gifts according to taste and budgets and also have these exclusive gifts delivered in Malta or to other EU countries. Corporate clients can request a personalised meeting via email on foods@dicalgroup.com. Visit www.dicalhouse.com to gain insight to a few of the festive items available, but for the real deal a visit to the Store is a must. Tel. 2142 4600/1.

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Elevate the art of cooking with the Lagostina Sfiziosa 24-Piece Cookware Set. This masterpiece includes a range of pots and pans, designed for precise heat control and durability. Crafted with high-quality materials and ergonomic handles, it’s compatible with all stovetops, including induction. Gift the joy of exceptional culinary experiences with Lagostina - a perfect present for those who appreciate both the beauty and functionality of cookware. Visit Oxford House in-store or online to shop the range.

NEW collection from Arte - Metal X Patina. Each design has been printed on metal foil to create an artistic, distressed plaster look on walls, combining a matte look with luminescent highlights to add vibrancy. Large selection of Arte wall coverings available from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel 2149 2149.

CHRISTMAS T&F

THIS SEASON

Ta’ Betta Wines and Wine Tasting Vouchers. This Christmas, gift your loved ones a fine wine that best suits their personality. Ta’ Betta offers four wines each with its own unique character - Jean Parisot, Isabella Guasconi, Antonio Manoel, and Philippe Villiers. Ta’ Betta also offers wine tasting vouchers, perfect for anyone who would like to enjoy the full experience of their wines and the estate. Ta’ Betta wines are available to purchase directly from the winery and from leading bottle shops. www.tabetta.com

Easy system by Novamobili. Impressively versatile, impressively modular. Easy system by Novamobili can be customised to include floor benches, clothes racks, mirrors, open shelving and desks too. Available in a range of finishes. From Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel 2149 2149.

The Winter Glow collection from Villeroy & Boch is a tribute to the Nordic Christmas tradition. The collection is made of white porcelain with a shiny glaze reminiscent of snow and ice. The individual pieces are decorated with small golden stars and snowflakes for a festive glow. Winter Glow - the perfect collection for modern and colour-reduced Christmas concepts for table and interior. Available at JoinwellFxb this Christmas.

Toy’s Delight Collection by Villeroy & Boch. Experience the heartwarming joy of Christmas with the Toy’s Delight Collection by Villeroy & Boch, creating a festive and timeless atmosphere. This collection is the perfect choice to infuse your home with holiday magic. Available exclusively at JoinwellFxb this Christmas, celebrate in style.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

“Reflect upon your present blessings - of which every man has many - not on your past misfortunes, of which all men have some. Fill your glass again, with a merry face and contented heart. Our life on it, but your Christmas shall be merry, and your new year a happy one!” – Charles Dickens 16

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CHRISTMAS T&F

FESTIVE FEASTING

Whether you’re gathering for lunch or dinner, Michael Diacono’s fowl and game birds are a sumptuous alternative to traditional turkey. Food: Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Styling and photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82

“This collection of recipes is unashamedly festive, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Christmas is a time to gather and enjoy a convivial feast. Be it a quiet meal between two or a boisterous dinner among family and friends, let the food shine and scream “occasion”. This year, I have chosen a small selection of fowl and game birds, mixing the traditional with the unusual. At the end of 2023, I wish you all a serene and meaningful Christmas and may 2024 be a year of peace.”

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Duck Stuffed Figs “en croute” Some of my family members thought that these looked like mince pies when they came out of the oven. That is not a bad thing really, as what is more traditional than warm mince pies over Christmas. These are a sweet and savoury way to kick off a meal. I dusted them with icing sugar just before serving to give that festive finish. In Morocco, they serve their traditional Pastilla, a savoury pigeon pie, in the same way.

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SERVES 8 PREPARATION AND COOKING: 1 hour 15 minutes RECOMMENDED WINE: Seeing that both these and

the cured duck ham would probably be served as a starter, maybe together with an array of other dishes, I cannot imagine a better pairing than a Beaujolais cru such as Fleurie. If you have some decent Beaujolais Nouveau, it will pair well with these dishes. Otherwise, go for light, fresh and fruity wines such as Pinot Noir, Gamay or Grenache.

CHRISTMAS T&F

YOU WILL NEED:

8 large soft dried figs 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 small carrot, peeled and cut into very small dice 500g diced, cooked duck meat 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves finely chopped Salt and pepper 75ml port wine 50g roasted hazelnuts, chopped a handful fresh parsley, finely chopped 2 sheets puff pastry egg yolk to glaze pomegranate arils to garnish icing sugar to dust

1. Place the figs into a bowl and pour warm water over them. Soak them for about 20 minutes then drain and dry them well. Cut off the hard stem and prise them open using your fingers. Be careful to keep the fig intact. Set them aside. 2. Melt the butter in a frying pan and

sweat the shallot and garlic together, then add the cubed carrot. Cook the mixture for 2 minutes, then add the shredded duck and stir well.

3. Add the rosemary and seasoning.

Douse the mixture with the port and let it cook till it reduces. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.

4. Now, add the chopped hazelnuts and parsley and press the filling into the figs. Cut ½cm strips from the puff pastry and use this to wrap around the stuffed figs. 5. Place the pastry wrapped figs onto a baking sheet lined with non-stick paper. Cut out small star shapes from the pastry and top the pastrywrapped figs. Use a pastry brush to glaze the pastry with beaten egg yolk. 6. Heat the oven to 200°C and bake

the wrapped figs for 15-20 minutes till the pastry turns golden. Serve these with a light dusting of icing sugar and some pomegranate arils to garnish. I also served these with plain thick Greek yoghurt on the side.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Duck in two ways

When we roast a whole duck the breast invariably gets over cooked to compensate for the time needed for the legs to get done. In this recipe we cook the two parts separately, the crown and legs, giving each the time necessary for a perfect result. The end result is quite spectacular to present at table. SERVES 4 PREPARATION AND COOKING: 2 hours plus

24 hours drying in the fridge RECOMMENDED WINE: I’d take the trouble of getting hold of a premium quality French or New Zealand Pinot Noir. Such an elegant dish requires an equally elegant wine to pair with.

1. The day before serving, separate the legs from the bird. Score the breast skin using a very sharp knife, being careful to avoid cutting into the flesh. Rub both the crown of the duck and the legs with sea salt. Place all the duck pieces onto a flat tray and leave it in the fridge for 24 hours to dry.

YOU WILL NEED:

2. To prepare the legs, start by

1 whole oven-ready duck flaky sea salt FOR THE LEGS:

vegetable oil, to fry 1 medium onion, peeled and diced 1 medium carrot, peeled and diced 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 fresh bay leaves pepper and salt 500ml dry red wine 300ml chicken stock 1 teaspoon red currant jelly FOR THE CROWN OF DUCK:

2 tablespoons honey juice of 1 orange

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heating the vegetable oil in a pot. Add the duck legs and cook them till they colour, then remove them and place them on a plate.

3. Add the onion and carrot to

the pan and stir fry them for a few minutes. Add the herbs, then return the duck legs to the pan. Season with pepper and a little salt.

4. Pour in the wine and reduce it, then add the stock. Cover the pan and let it simmer gently for one and a half hours.

5. To prepare the crown of duck, first heat the oven to 200°C (fan) or 220°C. Season the cavity of the crown with salt and pepper. Mix the honey and orange juice together. 6. Place the crown onto a rack

over an oven tray to collect the fat, put it into the hot oven and let it roast for 20 minutes.

7. Brush the crown with the honey and orange mix, return it to the oven and roast it for a further 15 minutes. Baste it again with the honey and put it back in the oven for another 10 minutes. (The core temperature should read 60°C). 8. Let the duck rest for 10 minutes. Remove the legs from the pan and place them on a platter with the crown. Stir the red currant jelly into the pan sauce and serve it in a sauce boat.

T&F CHRISTMAS

Cured Duck Ham

WITH SOUR CHERRY COMPÔTE AND CRISPED PARSNIPS It’s a bit of fun to prepare our own cured meats at home. Duck breast is especially simple to prepare and gives a smart and tasty result.

CURING TIME: 4 days SERVES: 8 (each breast

serves 2 as a starter) RECOMMENDED WINE: See Duck Stuffed Figs “en croute” FOR THE DUCK HAM:

4 duck breasts zest of 2 oranges, cut into thin strips 4 pieces star anise, crushed 400g sea salt 120g brown sugar 1 teaspoon pink peppercorns 4 fresh bay leaves

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1. Score the duck breasts

using a very sharp knife, but do not to cut into the flesh.

2. Mix orange zest with crushed

star anise, sea salt, sugar and pink peppercorns. Scatter a little of the cure onto the bottom of a glass dish that would hold the 4 breasts snugly. Place the 4 bay leaves on the cure then place a duck breast onto each leaf.

3. Sprinkle the rest of the cure all

over to cover the breasts completely. Press them down gently then cover the dish with cling film and leave it in the fridge for 4 days.

4. Remove the duck breasts from the cure, rinse them well under running water then pat them dry.

CHRISTMAS T&F

Crisped parsnips YOU WILL NEED:

1 large parsnip extra-virgin olive oil salt 1. Heat the oven to 200°C. 2. Peel the parsnip then use

a peeler to cut it into strips. Place these in a single layer on baking sheets. Drizzle them lightly with extravirgin olive oil and add a light sprinkling of salt.

3. Bake for 5 minutes

before turning over and continue to cook them till they are golden brown.

4. You must stay in the kitchen while they are baking as they will burn very quickly if forgotten. (I know this through unfortunate experience). The parsnips will crisp up as they cool down.

Sour cherry compôte YOU WILL NEED:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 shallot, very finely chopped 100g sour cherries (I used frozen) 100g sugar 250ml red wine ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 sprigs fresh thyme 5. Heat a non-stick pan then sear the duck breasts on the skin side only for a couple of minutes to colour them slightly. Let them rest then cut them into thin slices. 6. I served with these with

cherry compôte, crisped parsnips and pickles on the side.

1. Melt the butter in a pot and

stir fry the shallot to soften. Add the cherries and cook down for a few minutes.

2. Add the sugar and mix it

in well, then pour in the wine. Add the cinnamon and thyme.

3. Cook on moderate heat

for about 15 minutes. Leave to cool before serving with the duck ham.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Guinea Fowl Cappelletti

These are the recipes that are great to prepare with the help of family or friends, filling the pasta over a glass of wine and a natter. The dough we are using here is super rich and fine. SERVES: 4 PREPARATION AND COOKING: 2 hours, including pasta resting time RECOMMENDED WINE: When having a plate of pasta, I love

going for something Italian. A medium-bodied, somewhat earthy Barbera d’Alba would be a fantastic choice. FOR THE STOCK:

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 2 sticks celery 1 fresh bay leaf 1 teaspoon salt

500g sifted ‘00’ flour 150g semolina salt 1 whole egg 13 egg yolks

FOR THE FILLING:

1 tablespoon butter 1 apple, cut into wedges a few sage leaves

TO SERVE:

extra-virgin olive oil 1 guinea fowl, jointed into 4 salt and pepper • 1 egg 2 onions, peeled and chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 175ml dry white wine 250g fresh spinach, blanched, drained well and cooled 1 teaspoon fresh marjoram leaves 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 60g grated parmesan

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CHRISTMAS T&F

1. Start by making the stock. Place

the onion, carrot, and celery into a pot with the bay leaf and salt and cover the ingredients with water. Bring the pot to the boil and let it simmer for 30 minutes, then strain and reserve the liquid.

2. Heat some extra-virgin olive oil in a

heavy bottomed pot. Season the jointed bird with salt and pepper. Fry it for a few minutes to colour it on all sides, then add the chopped onion and garlic. Stir fry for a couple of minutes before pouring in the white wine. Reduce the liquid, then add the stock. Cover the pan and let it cook gently for one hour till the meat is tender and falls off the bone. Set the pot aside to cool.

3. Meanwhile, make the dough. Place the

flour, semolina and 1 teaspoon salt in a food mixer with the dough hook attached. On low speed, add the whole egg and yolks. Work the dough till it is smooth and elastic, then wrap it well in cling film and let it rest in the fridge for 1 hour.

4. When the guinea fowl has cooled enough, remove it from the pot and separate the meat from the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces. Chop the well-drained spinach and add it to the meat in a bowl. Add the marjoram, parsley, egg, and grated cheese. Mix everything well and check the seasoning. 5. If the cooking liquid of the guinea fowl is too loose, reduce it to a sauce consistency. 6. Use a pasta machine to roll out your

dough into thin sheets. To prevent it sticking, use semolina while rolling it out. Cut out 4cm rounds and place a teaspoon of the filling on each one. Brush the edges of the pasta with egg wash. Cut out larger rounds of pasta to cover the filling, say about 6cm, and press down over the edges to create a dome, making sure to not trap any air in. Fold the pasta around to create a hat shape and use egg wash to press the joint. Place the prepared cappelletti on semolina-dusted trays till needed.

7. Melt the butter in a pan and fry the apple slices for a couple of minutes on each side with some sage leaves. 8. Boil the cappelletti in salted water for 2 minutes, then dry them on a clean cloth before serving at once with the hot, reduced sauce and garnished with the fried apple slices.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Stuffed Poussin

Cooking during the holiday season should not always be for crowds of people. Sometimes a quiet dinner ‘a deux’ at home is what we need to zone out from all the mayhem this period brings along. The following is a perfect dish to prepare. Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 2 hours Recommended wine: An un-complicated, good-quality, oaked Chardonnay would not only pair perfectly with the poussin and spices, but also offers a nice break from all the red wine we tend to drink around Christmastime. YOU WILL NEED:

180g medium bulgur wheat 700ml stock salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 30g butter 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 65g chopped walnuts 80g dried cranberries 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 2 tablespoons freshly chopped mint juice of ½ a lemon salt and pepper 1 boneless poussin extra-virgin olive oil, to fry

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1. Place the bulgur wheat into a

pot and add the hot stock and salt. Cook the wheat for about 4 minutes, then turn the heat off. Cover the pot and set it aside to cool. Use a fork to fluff up and separate the grains.

2. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil with

the butter. Stir fry the onion to soften it, then add the chopped walnuts. Cook these together till they’re browned and then add them to the bulgar wheat.

3. Mix in the dried cranberries,

spices, mint, and lemon juice. Check and adjust the seasoning.

4. Lay the poussin on a board. Season the bird and then then press down some of the filling on it. You will have extra filling which will be served later beneath the bird.

5. Roll the bird up tightly (the stuffing is not dense, so it does tend to escape) and tie it with kitchen twine. Season the bird from the outside now and turn the oven on to 190°C. 6. Heat some extra-virgin olive

oil in a pan that is oven-proof. Fry the bird to colour it all around then transfer the pan to the oven and bake it for 20 minutes.

7. Remove the twine. Rest the cooked poussin for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the remaining stuffing and place it on a warmed serving dish. Use a sharp serrated knife to slice the poussin and place the slices on the warmed stuffing.

THE ALL-IN-ONE SIMPLE TO USE GRILL The idea behind the Big Green Egg Kamado Grill goes back more than 3000 years ago in East Asia, where it was discovered by the Japanese who referred to it as ‘kamado’ meaning oven or fireplace. At the beginning of the previous century, American soldiers came across the kamado in Japan taking it home where the ancient model was further refined in Atlanta Georgia USA using innovative materials. The secret of unparalleled great taste is a combination of heat reflection from the ceramic body shell, generating a perfect air flow that cooks the ingredients evenly at just the right temperature which can be controlled from 70-350 deg. C. to the finest degree. Results are exceptionally tender dishes.

CHL Ltd, Nigret Rd, Rabat RBT4601. Tel 2145 4861, 9942 8515. Email: info@chlmalta.com

T&F CHRISTMAS

Pot Roast Squab Pigeon

Pigeon has a dark meat with a slightly gamey flavour. The brining before makes all the difference, keeping the flesh moist and juicy. SERVES: 2 BRINING AND COOKING: 10hrs 30minutes RECOMMENDED WINE: I would start decanting a bottle of good quality

red Bordeaux, 30 minutes before putting the bird in the oven so that its perfectly ready to drink upon serving.

YOU WILL NEED:

a handful of fresh thyme and rosemary salt and pepper • 4 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 30g butter 2 thick squares of day-old Maltese bread, without crust 160ml port wine or a rich dark red wine FOR THE BRINE:

¼ cup sea salt • 4 cups water 2 fresh bay leaves • 8 pepper corns 2 squab pigeons

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1. Place all the ingredients in a pot and bring to the boil. Cook for 1 minute then let it cool to room temperature. Place the pigeons into a rigid plastic box that contains them snugly then pour the cooled brine over to cover them. Seal the box and keep it in the fridge for 10 hours. 2. Remove the birds from the

brine and pat them dry. Season the cavity with most of the herbs and salt and pepper. Place a clove of garlic in each one.

3. Heat the oven to 200°C. 4. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil and butter in an ovenproof dish. Fry the pigeons for 5 minutes to brown them well all over, then remove them from the pot. Add the bread and fry it on one side till it colours and crisps. Add more butter, if needed. 5. Flip the bread over and place a bird on each piece. Add the remaining herbs and garlic and pour the Port all over. Transfer these to the oven and let them roast for 20 to 25 minutes. Serve the birds on the bread with the pan juices.

T&F ENTERTAINING

THE PERFECT HOST Andrew Azzopardi on the art of wine and how to create a memorable experience for your guests.

ith Christmas just around the corner, many of us will be inviting guests to dinner over the coming weeks. Entertaining can be fun. I was brought up in a place where my parents entertained guests on a regular basis. They had people over every Sunday in summer and to this date the barbeques and evenings well spent are fondly remembered by their guests. I eventually realised that it was exactly because they were so genuinely happy to have their guests at home that their dinners and impromptu barbeques were so successful. Wine was always an integral part of their dinners and one way of elevating any dinner party into a memorable evening is mastering the art of wine and its service. Wine is all too often either feared or overlooked. Putting a little bit of effort into choosing and serving wine will enhance your guests’ enjoyment and make the evening even more memorable.

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Know your guests’ preferences The first step in being the perfect host is understanding your guests’ preferences. Take the time to inquire about their favorite varietals and styles. Whether your guests are enthusiasts who appreciate a robust red or prefer the elegance of a crisp white, tailoring the wine selection to their tastes demonstrates thoughtful consideration and sets the tone for a tailor-made experience. Prepare a diverse selection of wines Oftentimes your guests will have different tastes, so a well-curated wine selection will add depth and character to the whole experience for everyone involved. Serve a range of options to cater to different palates and complement various dishes. It’s always fun to start off with a sparkling wine as a delightful aperitif and then move onto versatile whites and bold reds that pair seamlessly with the main course, ensuring that every guest finds a wine that resonates with their taste preferences.

BEING THE PERFECT HOST INVOLVES A DELICATE BALANCE OF HOSPITALITY, ATTENTION TO DETAIL, AND A GENUINE PASSION FOR CREATING MEMORABLE MOMENTS. The perfect pairing Some of your guests may want to stick to one type of wine throughout the dinner, but I find that mastering the art of wine pairing can elevate the dining experience to new heights. While food pairing sounds rather complicated and scary, it need not be. Think of the wine as an added flavour component to the dish. Consider the flavour profiles of your chosen dishes and select wines that enhance, rather than overpower, the flavours. A delicate Pinot Noir may be the ideal companion for roasted poultry such as chicken or turkey, while a rich Cabernet Sauvignon would complement a hearty beef dish. The synergy between food and wine creates a harmonious culinary experience that your guests will savour.

ENTERTAINING T&F

A WELL-CURATED WINE SELECTION WILL ADD DEPTH AND CHARACTER TO THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE.

Temperature matters We’ve learnt that we should serve red wine at room temperature, though it is assumed that room temperature is around 15–20°C, so do be careful especially during warmer weather. The temperature at which wine is served significantly impacts its taste. Ensure that light whites are appropriately chilled to fridge temperature and heavier whites a little warmer than that (you could take them out of the fridge 15 minutes before serving), while lighter reds are usually served on the colder side of room temperature at around 15°C. Richer and bolder reds could be served slightly warmer, closer to the 20°C allowing their full and complex flavours to unfold. Investing in a reliable wine fridge or employing simple cooling techniques can make a significant difference in the overall enjoyment of the wine. The cooler you serve wine, the lighter it’s perceived. This is true for both red and white wines. This gives you some element of control, such that if you are serving a rich, high alcohol wine it may be worth chilling it slightly so that it will be easier to drink.

Presentation is key The aesthetics of wine presentation contribute to the overall ambiance of your dinner party. Invest in quality glassware that complements the wine varietals. Wine glasses are important tools to enjoy wine. The “Paris wine goblet” is not only unfashionable, it doesn’t do much to enhance the flavours of a wine. Don’t serve wine to your guests in plastic receptacles, of whichever shape of form. Decanters are optional. They can be extremely useful for certain red wines to enhance aeration and presentation, but don’t worry if you don’t have one at hand. It may also be fun to create a visually appealing wine station that beckons guests to explore and discover the carefully selected treasures within. This is especially useful when hosting guests without serving a meal. Engage Transform your dinner party into an engaging experience by sharing anecdotes about the wines you’ve chosen. A little bit of research can take you a long way. Briefly introduce each wine, sharing information about its origin and unique characteristics. This not only increases the guests’ appreciation for the wine but also creates an atmosphere of camaraderie and shared enjoyment.

Sip, savour, and enjoy the moment Just like my parents used to do, make sure you enjoy the moment. As the host, your demeanor sets the tone for the entire evening. Sip, savour, and enjoy the moment with your guests. Encourage them to share their thoughts on the wines, fostering a convivial atmosphere where everyone feels comfortable and engaged. Remember, the perfect host is not just a provider of food and wine, but a curator of experiences and memories. Being the perfect host involves a delicate balance of hospitality, attention to detail, and a genuine passion for creating memorable moments. By incorporating these wine-focused tips into your hosting repertoire, you’ll not only elevate the dining experience for your guests but also establish yourself as a master of the art of hospitality. Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wines and Spirit Education Trust.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Boxing Day Special A large gathering around a table laden with sumptuous food is one of the joys of Christmastime. Leftovers can be enjoyed later, spreading the pleasure of a culinary feast over several meals. Photography: Corinne Vella

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CHRISTMAS T&F

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Pear, Stilton and Walnut Galette

For homemade, buttery shortcrust pastry, rub 120g butter into 280g plain flour and knead it until smooth. Let the pastry rest in the fridge for 30 minutes before rolling it out. YOU WILL NEED:

400g shortcrust pastry 90g cream cheese (full fat) Full fat cream cheese, softened - 3 ounces 2 large pears, cored, unpeeled and thinly sliced 1 black fig, sliced 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons chopped roasted walnuts honey • 50g stilton • 1 egg 1 tablespoon rough sea salt crystals

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1. Preheat the oven to 200°C and set

3. Fold the pastry edge inwards, tucking

2. Arrange the pear slices in a circle

4. Put the galette onto a baking tray lined with non-stick paper and bake it till the pastry turns golden and the fig starts to caramelise (around 20-25 minutes). When the galette is done, turn off the heat and open the oven door, leaving the galette inside for a few minutes before serving it topped with chopped walnuts and crumbled stilton.

all the ingredients aside until they reach room temperature. Then, roll out the pasty on a floured surface into a circle and spread the it with the cream cheese, leaving a 5cm border all round. Crumble the stilton and sprinkle it and the chopped walnuts over the cream cheese layer, reserving some of both for the topping. over the cheese layer. The slices should overlap slightly. Press them down lightly to even the surface. Brush the pears with melted butter.

in the excess and lightly press it into place. Brush the pastry edges with beaten egg and sprinkle them with salt crystals. Place the fig slices in the centre over the pears and drizzle them with honey.

ELEVATE YOUR DREAMS SLEEP IN STYLE

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

T&F CHRISTMAS

Christmas

leftovers Pie This recipe uses turkey meat and cooked ham, but can be adapted to use up any leftover meats. Serves 4 YOU WILL NEED:

500g shortcrust pastry 250g turkey meat, shredded 250g cooked ham, shredded 2 carrots, scraped and cut into thick rounds a few stems of celery, finely chopped 1 bunch of parsley, finely chopped 2 leeks, sliced into thick rounds (white parts only) 2 medium red onions, finely chopped extra-virgin olive oil 55g unsalted butter 55g cornflour 300ml turkey or chicken stock 3 tablespoons double cream salt flakes crushed black pepper 150g petit pois, defrosted 1 egg

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1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Rub the inside a deep pie tin with butter and coat it with plain flour. Roll out the pastry into a large circle, then roll it up in non-stick paper and chill it in the fridge for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the pie filling. 2. Warm the olive oil in a large

pan and add the carrots. Let them cook for a few minutes, then add the leeks, onion, and celery. Cook for a few more minutes and then add the butter. Once it begins to bubble, add the cornflour and stir the mixture steadily for two minutes.

3. Pour in half the stock and stir.

Next, stir in the cream and add the turkey meat and ham. Pour the remaining stock in a little at a time, ensuring that the liquid evaporates before you add more. Stir in the peas and herbs, then remove the pan from the heat. Let the mixture cool slightly.

4. Remove the pastry from the fridge. Gently unroll it over the pie tin and ease it in, tucking and folding it to fit. Trim off the excess pastry and knead it together till it’s smooth. Wet the edges of the pie rim using a pastry brush. Next, roll out the remaining pastry into a circle and place it on top of the pie. Lightly press the edges of the pastry together to seal it. Cut star shapes out of the pastry trimmings and press them around the edge. Use a sharp knife to cut a cross shape in the centre of the pie top to allow steam to escape while it cooks. Brush the surface of the pastry generously with beaten egg. 5. Bake the pie in a hot oven until golden (approximately 35 minutes). Remove the pie from the oven and set it aside to cool down until you can comfortably remove it from its tin. Serve immediately. Alternatively, let the pie cool down completely, then wrap it in foil and cling film and freeze it until needed.

T&F CHRISTMAS

Christollen When stollen was created in medieval Saxony, it was made with simple, readily available ingredients but bakers ran into problems when there was a ban on the use of butter during Advent. The only alternative – oil – was difficult to make and very expensive, prompting a letter to the Pope to change the law. The version of Christollen made today first became popular at the Dresden Christmas market in the late 15th century. Filled with nuts and fruit, the jewelled version of the humble first Stollen is now made in a variety of forms, besides the more traditional loaf. This recipe includes marzipan but it can be omitted, if you prefer a plainer loaf. All ingredients should be at room temperature before mixing or the dough will not rise properly.

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CHRISTMAS T&F

YOU WILL NEED:

200g raisins 75g candied orange peel 45g candied lemon peel 60g ground almonds 65ml rum 120ml milk 1 ½ teaspoons instant yeast, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 300t all-purpose flour, approximately 1 large egg, at room temperature 75g butter, at room temperature 50g granulated sugar zest from 1 organic lemon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ¼ teaspoon cardamom, optional 75g marzipan TO FINISH:

56g butter icing sugar

1. Chop the candied peel into small pieces and combine this in a bowl with the raisins, ground almonds, and rum. Stir the mixture well, cover the bowl and set it aside to infuse overnight.

comfortably warm, then add the dry yeast and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Whisk the mixture until both the yeast and sugar dissolve. Set this aside.

5. When the dough is properly risen, line a baking tray with non-stick paper and knead the dough on a floured worktop. Shape the dough into a loaf and use the side of your hand to create a hollow running the full length. Use both hands to roll out the marzipan into a sausage shape and place this in the centre of the dough hollow. Next, lift the side of the dough and fold it over the marzipan and press lightly along the edge of the fold to seal the dough.

3. Combine the flour, spices,

6. Transfer the filled dough to the

2. Heat the milk till it is

vanilla, lemon zest, sugar, and butter in a large bowl. Add the egg and mix it in well. Using the dough hook on an electric mixer, knead the dough while slowly adding the milk and yeast mixture. Let the mixer run until the dough forms into a ball.

4. Tip in the fruit and nut mixture and knead them into the dough. Add a bit more flour if the mixture is too sticky. Use your hands to form the dough into a ball, sprinkle it with flour and put it back into the bowl. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and set it in a draft-free warm spot for the dough to rise. This should take about an hour and a half.

lined baking tray and cover it with a dry dishcloth. Let the tray stand in a warm place for around 45 minutes for the dough to rise again.

7. Heat the oven to 170°C and bake

the Christollen in the pre-heated oven till it’s done (around 40-45 minutes). Around 24 minutes into the baking time, cover the Stollen with foil to prevent it over-browning. Once it’s done, remove the Stollen from the oven and brush it generously with melted butter and sprinkle it liberally with icing sugar. Set it aside to cool down.

8. Once it’s cooled down, wrap it in foil and store it in a cool, dry place until needed.

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T&F CHRISTMAS

Pears poached in Port YOU WILL NEED:

100g caster sugar • 300ml Port • 150ml water 2 small sticks of cinnamon • 2 pieces star anise 1 large piece fresh orange peel 1 loose handful pitted cherries 4 cloves • 6 medium-sized pears 1. Use a pan large enough to hold all 6 pears. Place all

the ingredients (bar the pears) in the pan and bring it to a simmer. Stir the liquid until the sugar dissolves and let it simmer for a minute or two. Strain the liquid to remove the cherry pulp and return the strained liquid to the pan with the orange peel and cinnamon.

2. While the mixture simmers, peel the pears retaining

their stalks. Lower the peeled pear gently into the simmering liquid and poach them over a low heat for around 25 minutes. Turn them every few minutes to ensure they poach evenly. Turn off the heat and set the pan aside, allowing the pears to steep in the poaching liquid until they cool down.

3. Refridgerate the pears in their poaching liquid in an

airtight container until needed. Just before serving, remove the pears from the liquid and place them on a serving plate.

Red Cabbage Salad After several heavy meals, a crunchy, raw salad might be just what you need. This can be served as a side with the leftovers pie, or served alone. Top it with crumbled stilton for extra taste. YOU WILL NEED:

1 small red cabbage • 100g walnut halves 1 red apple, unpeeled • 1 small bunch fresh dill 3 black figs FOR THE DRESSING:

extra-virgin olive oil • 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon honey • salt and pepper 1. Toast the walnut halves and set them aside to cool

down. Finely shred the cabbage, removing any large white parts. Quarter, core and slice the apple, leaving the peel on. Trim and slice the fig. Pluck the dill fronds off the thick stems and chop them roughly. Put all the ingredients into a mixing bowl and toss them together.

2. Put the oil, orange juice, and honey in a small

bowl and whisk them well. Season the dressing with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss it well. Transfer the salad to a platter and serve with extra dressing on the side.

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4. Transfer the liquid to a small pan and let it simmer until it reduces to a syrup. To serve, pour a little syrup onto a serving plate and place the pears on top.

T&F CHRISTMAS

Stuffed Dates

An annual tradtion in many homes, stuffed dates are delicious served with strong black coffee.

YOU WILL NEED:

1 punnet dates granulated sugar FO R T H E M A R Z I PA N :

250g ground almonds 1 egg white 125g icing sugar ½ teaspoon lemon juice a dash of brandy

1. Whisk the egg whites lightly and add the sugar. Keep

whisking until the sugar dissolves. Add the ground almonds and stir them in very well. Add the lemon juice and a dash of brandy. Knead the mixture until it forms a thick paste.

2. Slice open the dates and remove the pits. Take a

small piece of marzipan, roll it into a small sausage shape and press a pitted date around it. Roll the date in granulated sugar and place it on a tray. Repeat until all the marzipan and dates are used up.

3. Allow the sugared dates to dry slightly then

stored them in an airtight tin until needed.

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T&F PROMOTION

SEASONAL BLISS

Memories AT

PALAZZO PARISIO For us at the palace, there is a reflective summertime sadness around the time when the garden ushers us indoors. Beautiful as it may be, flourishing under autumn showers, the early morning and evening chill descends, no longer beckoning for iced orange juice and sundowners, but hot chocolates and crumbles.

e occasionally enjoy that rare event where the autumn seems to escape us entirely and we skip past the season right into Christmas. Such is the weather we are enjoying this year. Every week we look at our crisp winter uniforms, eagerly awaiting their grand entrance - this year especially, what with them being brand new to coincide with the decadent redesign of our restaurant.

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Helping us past this momentary m e l a n c h o l y, th e re s tau ra nt , ex p e rtl y reimagined by our friend and internationallyrenowned Neapolitan architect Antonio Girardi, feels very much like a garden. There is foliage everywhere - the hand-painted murals, our large potted parlour palms, even the tables themselves are topped with green marbled glass.

PROMOTION T&F

Our dishes too, hearty and comforting, are there to welcome us back into the cocooning embrace of winter, a time for togetherness and warmth. David Giacomelli, our Head Chef, has brought back the seasonal favourites while adding a dash of his own expertise to the menu. Our crunchy octopus starter is as much a work of art as it is delicious. Paired with a squid ink cracker and ginger foam atop a smoked carrot purée, you’ll want to order a second for your main course. That is, if you can resist what else Chef has prepared for you. We would have a riot on our hands if the Wiener schnitzel failed to make an appearance come autumn. Fear not. It is very much here and still the wonder many have fallen in love with. Its only downside is that it often makes people bemoan their perceived lack of spontaneity, opting for the same with every visit. It is hard to go into all of the details of the sweets section, but we’ll simply let the list do the talking: Hazelnut Millefoglie, Chocolate & Gingerbread Mousse, White Truffle Parfait, Pineapple & Coconut Crumble and Lemon Brulée Tart. We dare you to not salivate. With the warmth and heartiness of our menus ready for visitors, we invite you to join us for your festive gatherings, whether you are catching up with friends who are visiting for the season or wanting to celebrate with a sumptuous meal which none of you should lift a finger to prepare. For all of you forward planners, it’s also a good time to book ahead for the new year. With it being quieter all round, we are offering 25% off event bookings for those wishing to party in January and February, so do get in touch.

One welcome aspect of the season is that the sunshine is no longer oppressive, but joyous. Bring a book, pick a bench in our botanical gardens, and forget the madness out there, if only for a few hours. Our two gigantic silk floss trees have recently graced us with their bright pink flowers in an explosion of colour. They are always an interesting juxtaposition: delicate blooms floating above a trunk of spikes. As in any other season, we welcome you to join us. As the Baroness herself often says, we hope you’ll leave feeling at least a little better than when you walked in.

For more information do give us a call on 21412461 or visit our website palazzoparisio.com

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T&F CELEBRATION

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CELEBRATION T&F

PARTY

TIME Grazing boards and platters are perfect for intimate meals or larger parties, leaving the host free to join the party rather than lurk in the kitchen. Food and photography by Claire Borg

I recently bought a long serving board to use at home. Filled with good things organised around a particular food theme, it brings people together and creates a convivial atmosphere. Large platters work just as well. Load one or more with freshly cooked nibbles, crunchy vegetables, and store-cupboard or shop-bought items and you can have a party in an instant.

BUTTERMILK CHICKEN Marinating the chicken overnight will improve the flavour. Serves 8 YOU WILL NEED:

8 boneless and skinned chicken thighs 4 large tablespoons Greek yoghurt 2 teaspoons sweet paprika 6 cloves of garlic, minced salt and pepper • juice of half a lemon ½ teaspoon ground cumin plain flour

1. Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Add

the chicken and stir well till the meat is well coated.

2. Place the bowl in the fridge and let the meat marinate

overnight for the flavours to be absorbed.

3. Just before serving time, bring the marinaded chicken out of the

fridge and let it warm up to room temperature. Shake some plain flour into a deep sided container and season it with salt and pepper. Heat a pot of oil until a piece of bread dropped into it sizzles immediately.

4. Dip the chicken pieces into the seasoned flour and deep fry them in the hot oil until golden brown. Place the cooked chicken onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to remove the excess oil and cover it to keep it warm while you finish cooking. Serve immediately.

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T&F CELEBRATION

CHICKEN LIVER AND WHISKEY PÂTÉ Makes 4 servings – can serve up to 20 with crackers

The pâté can be prepared a day ahead or frozen for up to two months. Thaw it out in the fridge overnight and let it warm up to room temperature before serving. YOU WILL NEED:

1 kg chicken livers 2 leeks 200 g good quality butter 150ml whiskey 150 ml white wine 1 small tin of anchovies black pepper to taste 1. Melt a spoonful of the

butter together with the oil from the anchovies. Over high heat, cook the chicken livers until they change colour, then add the whiskey and cook until the liquid almost completely evaporates.

2. Add the leeks and

sauté them together. When the leeks start to soften, add the white wine and pepper and bring the pan to a simmer. Reduce the heat, cover the pan and let it simmer for 20 minutes. Then, turn off the heat and let the pan cool for ten minutes.

3. Add the remaining

butter and blend the mixture until it is very smooth. For an extra smooth pâté, press the mixture through a fine metal sieve. Transfer it to serving bowls, cover them and let them cool down completely.

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T&F CELEBRATION

NIGELLA SEED MILK BUNS Makes about 30 YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour • 11g dried active yeast 1 tablespoon sugar • 1 teaspoon salt 300ml warm milk • 30g soft butter 3 tablespoons nigella seeds and more to sprinkle on top 1. Mix all the ingredients together and

knead the dough for ten minutes. Cover the dough and set it aside to double in size.

2. Knock back the dough and divide

it into 25g portions. Roll each portion into a bun and place it on a large baking tray (or two). Cover the raw dough buns and let them stand for 20 minutes.

3. Heat the oven to 190°C. Gently brush

the buns with water and sprinkle them with nigella seeds. Transfer them immediately to the oven and bake them until golden brown (about 15-20 minutes).

CORONATION CHICKEN This is a good way to use up any leftover chicken. I adjust the ingredients depending on the amount of leftovers. Use it to fill sandwiches or small buns. It’s delicious too as a jacket potato filling. YOU WILL NEED:

cooked chicken (grilled or roasted) green apple raisins mango chutney a sprinkle of curry powder mayonnaise

Finely chop some green apple and put it in a bowl. Mix in the raisins, a few tablespoons of mango chutney and some curry powder. Mix in the cooked chicken and then add the mayonnaise. Store the mixture in the fridge until needed. 50

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T&F CELEBRATION

SALMON PATTIES Serves 6 YOU WILL NEED:

500g of oven-roasted boneless, skinless salmon 3 cloves of minced garlic 1 large tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon lemon zest ½ teaspoon of smoked paprika 1 tablespoon fresh Dill 1 or 2 eggs breadcrumbs 1. Gently cook the garlic in

butter for a minute. Flake the salmon and add the garlic butter to it. Add one egg, the lemon, and the dill and paprika and mix well. If the mixture is dry, add the second egg and mix it well.

2. Add enough breadcrumbs

to bring the mixture together into a firm consistency. Take a spoonful of the mixture and roll between your palms to form a ball. Wetting your hands beforehand will help prevent the mixture sticking.

3. Chill the patties so that they

firm up. Just before baking, roll each one into a mixture of breadcrumbs seasoned with sesame seeds and some dried herbs. I used dried parsley, some lemon pepper seasoning, and some paprika coated sesame seeds I had bought on a trip abroad. At this point, you can freeze the patties and bake them when needed without thawing them out first.

4. Heat the oven to 180°C. Put the patties on a baking tray, drizzle them with oil and bake them until they are golden brown. Keep them warm until serving time.

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T&F CELEBRATION

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CELEBRATION T&F

SALMON CREAM CHEESE DIP This is delicious spread can be prepared the day before serving. I used smoked salmon, but it can also be made with hot smoked salmon or roasted flaked salmon. YOU WILL NEED:

200g smoked salmon – finely chopped 300g cream cheese 2 tablespoon Greek yoghurt 2 tablespoon finely chopped dill black pepper 1 teaspoon lemon zest, finely grated

Mix all the ingredients together until smooth. Serve it as a dip with fresh bread or crackers, or use it to fill sandwiches or to fill devilled eggs.

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T&F CELEBRATION

HONEY GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS You can make this ahead and store it in the fridge until needed, or freeze it, including the marinade, to serve at a later date. I usually double this recipe and freeze half the amount for another mealtime. Serves 6 YOU WILL NEED:

12 chicken wings 200ml of white wine 3 pieces star anise 1 onion cut in half 2 tablespoons Worchester sauce 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar salt and pepper water 1. Place the chicken wings

and all the ingredients into a large pot and mix them well.

2. Add enough water to just

cover the wings. Bring to a boil and simmer for 40 minutes.

3. Heat the oven to 200°C. 4. Mix two tablespoons of honey with two tablespoons of soy sauce. Remove the wings from the marinade. Toss them in the sauce, sprinkle them with sesame seeds, and transfer them to a roasting tin. Roast the wings until golden brown and keep them warm until serving time.

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T&F PROMOTION

LAGOSTINA’S CULINARY MAGIC

A Perfect Roast Turkey Recipe At Oxford House, we believe that the heart of every home is the kitchen, and the soul of the kitchen is the appliance that transforms your culinary dreams into mouthwatering reality. In this special publication, we’re thrilled to showcase our beautiful Lagostina collection. Prepare to be inspired, and let’s dive into the world of Lagostina, where innovation meets tradition and Roast Turkey is just the beginning.

Ingredients TURKEY

4 kg turkey, fresh or completely thawed 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon thyme leaves, chopped zest of 1 lemon 50ml light olive oil salt and pepper TURKEY STUFFING

100g slivered almonds 100g panko breadcrumbs 100g plain breadcrumbs 100ml milk 2 eggs 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ bunch basil, roughly chopped ¼ bunch mint, roughly chopped 1 lemon, zest and juice salt and pepper to taste TURKEY JUS

1l chicken stock 750ml good quality beef stock 250ml red wine 2 cloves garlic, bruised ½ bunch thyme 100ml honey 2 tablespoon Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons cornflour 3 tablespoons water

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PROMOTION T&F

Turkey

Turkey Stuffing

Turkey Jus

1. To begin making your roast

1. Preheat the oven at 160⁰C.

1. Place the chicken stock, beef

turkey, remove the wish bone then separate the skin from the flesh by running your fingers in between them both. Clean out the cavity and pat it dry with paper towel.

2. Mix the garlic, thyme, zest, and

oil together and place it between the skin and flesh of the turkey. Fill the cavity with stuffing. Ensure that the oven is set at the on the right heat and if you have a meat probe, this is even better. Place the stuffed turkey on a wire rack, on top of the universal tray lined with baking paper.

3. Place trays in the oven on level

2 of a full-sized oven or level 1 of a compact appliance. Set the oven at 160⁰C and a high level of steam and, if available, connect the meat probe, set the core temperature to 75⁰C and press start.

4. Once the turkey is cooked,

remove it from the oven. Select Keep Warm function at 60⁰C with a high level of steam. Let the turkey rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour before serving.

Place almonds on the universal tray and cook them for 5-10 minutes or until lightly toasted.

2. Place the roasted almonds in a

mixing bowl with the remaining ingredients and mix them until well combined. Use the mixture to stuff the turkey before trussing it.

3. If you are cooking the stuffing

separately, shape it into a log, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it overnight.

4. To cook the stuffing, remove the plastic wrap and place it on the universal tray lined with baking paper. Preheat the oven on 160⁰C with a high level of steam and cook the stuffing for 30-40 minutes. Serve it sliced.

stock, and red wine in a medium to large saucepan. Place the pan on high heat and bring it to the boil. Add the garlic, thyme, honey, and mustard then let it simmer on level 5-6 and reduce the mixture by half.

2. Mix the cornflour and water

together and whisk them into the jus. Simmer the pan for a further 10 minutes and then strain the liquid through a fine sieve. If you have pan juices from your roast turkey add them just before the cornflour mixture.

If you love to cook, Lagostina cookware will surely make your life easier. Bring a touch of style to your kitchen with induction compatible pots & pans, for exceptional cooking results. Should you wish to know more about these delightful cooking companions and their incomparable features, visit www.oxfordhouse.com.mt or Oxford House, Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara CBD 2010 between 09:00hrs and 19:00hrs, from Monday to Friday or on Saturday from 09:00hrs until 13:00hrs.

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T&F INTERIORS

HOME FROM HOME A newly built penthouse plays on traditional design elements with a modernist twist Interior design: studio NICHE by Martina Fenech Adami Photography: Ramon Portelli

In the main living area patterned tiles paired with larger monochromatic tiles supplied by Vella Falzon create a visually appealing and balanced design. The classic looking patterns add warmth, character, and a touch of tradition to the space, and the blend adds interest and depth, making the area feel more dynamic.

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INTERIORS T&F

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T&F INTERIORS

“I

really wanted to push boundaries to explore something a bit different, to push the envelope of the functionality and aesthetics of the space,” says Martina Fenech Adami of studio NICHE.” She’s describing a recent project – a penthouse flat newly built for short-term holiday rentals – where she had a free hand in designing the interior. The first aspect she tackled was the internal layout, rethinking the way it would be used, the experience of entering, engaging with, and moving through the space, and how to translate that functionality into an attractive and liveable space. “The way people live has changed but the design of dwellings hasn’t kept up,” she says. “I like to challenge this in my designs and tackle things in a different way. There’s something of a green movement going on, as a reaction to over-construction. This inspired the design concept of this flat”. The concept involved designating a large cube-shaped chunk of the internal space as a green area, defining it visually by painting it in a warm, rusty-orange colour and creating an oversized planter at its centre for a fastgrowing montsera plant. As Martina explains, “Putting something large and green into a new building makes a poetic statement about the value of giving back. Everyone is obsessed with every square metre and I put an oversized piece in the centre. It makes sense to me, though not usually to everyone else. A large custom-made, self-irrigating planter visualy dominates the kitchen and living space. A custom-made island and bespoke cabinetry with appliances from Oxford House give the kitchen a clean modernist look.

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T&F INTERIORS

o n s te ra c reate s th e n ot unwelcome feeling of greenery taking over. When the interior was photographed, the plant was still youngish but it’s now becoming a bit of a jungle in the kitchen. You’re always around this massive box with the leaves poking out. It’s green, but you’re up in the penthouse.” Colour defines the area when you enter the heart of the building, which gives way to patterned flooring that leads out of the core. The blue and coppery coloured patterned tiles seep out into the terrace area, creating an illusion of space. The play of patterns adds intrigue, resonating with and picking up on traditional design elements but with a modernist twist. If you’re on holiday you don’t really need somewhere to watch TV. You’re either resting on your way out or on the way in, so much of the central space is taken over by the kitchen and dining areas. “I always like to create a large feeding area where holiday makers can gather,” Martina says. “I wanted to be bold with colour and pattern and in the detail. There’s the element of colour blocking – taking a tone and carrying it out throughout creates a very interesting space.” “When you travel you’re looking for experience,” she adds, “you’d want that experience to extend into the space where you stay, so it made sense to use materials that reflect the travel context.” Picking up on this design theme, the external apertures have louvered shutters with hinges in wrought iron. Tadelakt plaster – a natural lime-based finish that originated in Marrakech – was used in the bathroom, giving it a Mediterranean feel.

A warmly coloured cube-shaped space anchors the internal layout. At the centre, the custom-made kitchen island is topped with a mitrededge floating surface in Juparana Rio granite supplied by Rabat Marbles. Sleek inset kitchen appliances from Oxford House complete the look.

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FRESH T&F

Inset architectural lighting by Elektra defines the sitting and dining area. A strategically placed full length mirror visually extends the space, reflecting the subtle inset lighting that casts a gentle glow.

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T&F INTERIORS

he lighting throughout is architectural, with a playful element in the bedroom in the form of the mouse-shaped lamps. The idea is to play with design itself, including elements of surprise. “In the main area I really wanted the green at the centre,” Martina says. “There’s an architectural light fitting with a narrow angle beam right above the planter. When this is on, it creates an interesting effect as the plant’s large leaves cast shadows onto the surrounding area, giving a sense of green taking over the space. It’s a fun way of taking the green into the evening. The effect came out really nicely. There’s the play with the geometry and colour and keeping some aspects of Maltese elements.” The modernist kitchen plays on geometric shapes. A granite table top “floats” on a fluted cylindrical leg within the cube-like space. It’s a heavy and robust but lightweight structure. The geometric theme carries through to the dining table, fashioned from a glass top on a cylindrical base and surrounded by little ottoman-style stools. Most of the design elements are customised, including the back kitchen unit. “It’s where I feel I excel – creating custom pieces,” Martina says.

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The colour-blocking carries through to the bedroom and ensuite bathroom, creating a cohesive aesthetic throughout the space. Surprise elements, like the mouse-shaped lamps supplied by Elektra, create a playful holiday feel.

T&F INTERIORS

he interior design is inward looking while the social aspect is advanced thanks to a playfully modular space. You can create extra seating for dining by moving the table, for example. The flat is suited to multiple occupancy but has a consistent feel and appearance that is a fun experience for holidays The detailing and planning are meticulous. The kitchen handles’ finger grips with a half round resonate in the dining table and wardrobe detailing. “I’m very conscious of functionality and of the need to limit spaces to what you need on holiday without it being too much,” Martina says. “This flat is not meant for a long let and becoming a semi-permanent home. It’s meant for shorter stays so you need to have the right amount of space.” Glass elements reflect light and create an airy feeling and there are custom fluted glass doors so lots of natural light beams through. “We didn’t use any greys or blacks,” Martina says. There are no dark hallways so it came out beautifully. There’s a joyful feeling.”

Tadelakt plasterwork by EPM Solutions creates a waterproof surface with a textured feel in the bathroom, acting as a foil for the smooth sanitary ware and fittings supplied by Vella Falzon. The blue and copper-colour pattern of the ceramic tiles supplied by Vella Falzon channel the look of traditional cement-tile flooring. Blue painted apertures complement the Mediterranean aesthetic.

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T&F HERITAGE

AT HOME IN

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HERITAGE T&F

BIRGU

A derelict property has been transformed into a home blending old and new with natural materials. Interior design, furniture and accessories design: Studio Nomad Interiors Photography: Alessandro Tento General and finishing contractor: Establishment

he listed building lies within the so-called Collacchio quarters in Birgu. Dating back to around 1600, it was uninhabited for some five decades before it was sold to new owners who wanted a home in the historic walled city. Studio Nomad Interiors was engaged to convert the existing two-storey townhouse to modern standards while retaining the original architectural character. The owners wanted the interior design to convey a sense of heritage and also offer a feeling of openness and comfort, using a cohesive, minimal design that blended the original and new parts of the house seamlessly.

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T&F HERITAGE

tudio Nomad Interiors’ proposed design focused on reconfiguring the layout, enhancing ventilation, and maximising natural light. It retained all the existing stone walls and used predominantly natural materials such as lava stone and cement. Built-in structures have been used as seating or storage, and artisans worked on site throughout the duration of the project restoring old items, such as the original interior doors, and creating new bespoke pieces such as the vanities, doors, and tables. “Renovating this historical home was truly a team effort from the beginning,” says Eliza Costabel, the founder of Studio Nomad. “As the designer brought in to renovate the property, I immediately connected with the client over our shared background of having lived in multiple cultures and places. We both wanted to honour the home’s heritage and bring in subtle Maltese references beyond the use of patterned tiles and colourful decor.” Eliza sought inspiration in nature, in the texture of limestone, as well as more broadly from Birgu’s austere past as the seat of the Inquisition and the scene of the Ottoman siege. From the colour palette, to the tactile quality of the soft furnishings, to researching Moorish architectural elements in Birgu or ironwork designs in the streets of Valletta, this was an adventure into extrapolating design cues from everything she saw around her which she then converted into a curated design to fit the house and the client’s lifestyle. Since the property was to be used to welcome visiting family and friends, the interior design also drew inspiration from hospitality settings, prioritising a unique ambiance and experience that blended the property’s history with the clients’ love of travel.

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The rough appearance of the old limestone walls adds depth of character to the interior, enhanced by the architectural lights supplied by OK Home.

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T&F HERITAGE

n the ground level, the house originally had an entry hallway leading to a windowless back room. The design aimed to bring natural light from the front living room to the back room, which was transformed into the kitchen. The former courtyard was assimilated as an interior space to increase the usable area, and the space under the stairs was converted into a breakfast nook with a glass ceiling, allowing light from the first-floor guest bedroom to filter down. The kitchen design involved removing a row of ceiling “xorok” along the back wall, a step replicated through to all the floors above to create a lightwell. New perforated metal stairs from first to top floor were designed to allow natural light to flow from the roof skylight down to the ground floor kitchen. At the front of the house, the living room was opened up to the hallway and existing stone stairs. The interiors feature minimal furniture, with built-in elements blending with the architectural envelope to define spaces and provide seating and storage. The original stone staircase leading to the first floor was renovated, with archways introduced to flank both sides of the first ramp. Artisanal hand-stenciled lavastone floor tiles were used between the arches as a nod to the traditional carpet runners commonly used in old townhouses. The first floor layout was reconfigured to improve the way the space is used and to accommodate a spacious guest bedroom, with an ensuite bathroom, accessed through a glass bridge with bespoke wrought ironwork. To maintain consistency between old and new levels, the existing internal doors were restored, and reclaimed doors were purchased to fit each unique aperture before construction work began. On the second floor, custom metal grille stairs run along the stone wall, serving as a contemporary feature that harmonises with the original ironwork found in the house. This floor is part of the two new additional levels and the whole floor is taken up by the spacious main bedroom suite with dual vanities and a fitted closet. To the side, antique doors open into the hammam-style bathroom with a walk-in shower and a built-in tub, separated from the bedroom area by sliding louvered panels.

In the main bedroom, the bed and mattress from Mattress Collction are dressed in textured fabrics. Natural materials and varied textures combine with a neutral colour palette and strategically positioned light fittings from OK Lighting to create a soothing atmosphere.

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HERITAGE T&F

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T&F HERITAGE

n the recessed third floor level, natural light pours in through a full-width skylight on the landing and a large aperture in the open plan dining/ kitchenette area. This opens up to a terrace where seating, a barbecue, and a jacuzzi pool create an inviting Mediterranean feel. In place of traditional louvers, agave plant stalks collected in the countryside have been strategically placed under the skylight to diﬀuse the light and create captivating shadow patterns. Access to the guest bathroom is through a custom Moorish door. The monochromatic dark plaster highlights the stone “ħawt” repurposed as a hand wash basin. In line with the minimalist approach, most interventions maintained a simple and honest aesthetic, showcasing exposed beams and raw concrete ceilings that complement the existing stone structure. A neutral colour palette and natural materials such as cement plaster, stone, and raw wood have been used consistently throughout the space. Moorish-inspired architectural elements taken from around Birgu’s historic homes have been paired with religious decorative objects and textural materials, creating an understated sophistication. “The design celebrates both the heritage of the house as well as the diverse characteristics of Maltese culture, history, and nature,” Eliza says. Working with the contractor, Establishment, who handled the conversion works, new additions, interior finishes, custom carpentry, and restored the old doors, specialist artisans and tradesmen was key to realizing the design vision. An expert carpenter spent weeks on-site restoring the original doors and creating bespoke details. Stonemasons carefully repaired walls and architectural features on the façade and interiors bringing to light the texture and story of each chisel mark. Scouting for unique finds that blended vintage authenticity with contemporary livability was a journey in itself. The designer’s travels took her to outdoor markets and small workshops in Malta and halfway around the world. “I always approach renovation projects with a great sense of respect and the excitement of an archaeologist unearthing a precious find,” Eliza says. “This renovation truly celebrated teamwork, people passionate about their skill and bringing new life to the home in a way that honoured its past as well as the owner’s aesthetic sensibilities.”

In this bedroom, twin beds from Mattress Collection contribute to a snug space, their size allowing for more floor space in the room, creating a sense of closeness and an opportunity for a shared and comforting environment with a cozy feel. 76

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T&F TRADITION

THE ORIGIN OF

ADVENT AND CHRISTMAS WREATHS

Symbols of eternity and divine perfection, woven wreaths are a heartwarming reminder of the circle of life Wreaths woven by Tippa and Gabriela Gherghel Photography and styling by Gabriela Gherghel

“Since you cannot be my wife, you shall surely be my tree. O laurel, I shall for ever have you in my hair, on my lyre and quiver.” – Apollo, in Ovid’s Metamorphoses, after the nymph Daphne escaped him by turning into a laurel tree.

ong before the wreath became associated with Advent and Christmas, it was an emblem of earthly power and victory. In ancient Rome wreaths rewarded excellence and military success and were worn on the head like a crown. On Kalends, the New Year festival, they were exchanged as gifts. In ancient Persia, wreaths symbolised importance; in ancient Greece, they were presented to triumphal athletes. In Sweden, lit candles are incorporated in the wreaths young girls wear on their heads, marking the return of the light after the winter solstice. And somewhere in northern or Eastern Europe, on a date now lost in the mists of time, someone once created a wreath to mark the beginning of Advent, the start of the spiritual year in the Christian calendar and the anticipated coming of light into the world.

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The origin of the Advent and Christmas wreath is, oddly, the triangle. In the 7th century, the English monk Saint Boniface used the geometric shape to demonstrate the Holy Trinity of God the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. When, in the 16th century, trees were brought indoors to mark the religious season, they were trimmed into a triangular shape, in respect of the Holy Trinity. Chosen for their ability to survive the long, dark and cold winter months, the trees were evergreen, symbolising hope, resilience and long-lasting life. At a time when nothing went to waste and everything found a use, the tree trimmings were woven into circular shapes and used as decorations hung on the tree branches. The shape was practical – it was easier to hang up a circle than a loose branch – but it also represented divine perfection and eternity as a circle has no beginning and no end. A larger wreath would be placed on a tabletop, its evergreen leaves a reminder that spring would eventually return after the cold winter. The decorations

Wreaths can be made to order. Contact Tippa & Gabriela at: gtandnature@gmail.com

TRADITION T&F

The earliest record of an advent wreath adopted by the Christian church is from the early part of the 19th century.

were known as writhen, whose meaning was derived from “to writhe” or “to twist”, hence the term “wreath”. The earliest record of an advent wreath adopted by the Christian church is from the early part of the 19th century when, in 1833, the Lutheran pastor Johann Heinrich Wichern wound greenery around a cartwheel to symbolise advent as he told the nativity story to educate children about the meaning and purpose of Christmas. To help them count the weeks to Christmas, he placed four candles in the wreath – representing hope, peace, love, and new life - lighting one every Sunday. The custom spread and entered people’s homes. Later, some chose to add another candle which would be lit on Christmas day to represent the birth of Jesus Christ and the return of light to the world. As with the Christmas tree itself, the Christmas wreath became more widely known after Queen Victoria married Prince Albert, ushering in the acceptability of the Germanic

tradition and popularising it around the world. Wreaths were eventually made to hang on the front door of private homes. Known as “welcome rings”, they were usually woven from holly and ivy, and included pine cones and ribbons. The materials used in the wreath traditionally carried meaning: evergreen foliage represented long life and growth, red bows and berries symbolised blood, nuts and fruit were included to signify rebirth, pine leaves represented new life and laurel leaves victory over pain and suffering. Traditionally, Advent wreaths are laid flat, placed on a stand or tabletop, to allow lit candles to be included, while Christmas wreaths are hung up over a doorway or on the door itself, or on a indoor wall. They now serve as both symbol and décor, marking the start of Advent and Christmas celebration and bringing warmth and life into our homes. Whatever the prevailing belief or tradition, a wreath is ultimately a celebration of the circle of life. ISSUE 161 DECEMBER 2023

T&F CHRISTMAS

The Christmas Star Orchid By Megan Mallia

Everybody knows the poinsettia as ‘the Christmas flower’, but less known, perhaps, is the Christmas Star Orchid.

ngraecum sesquipedale, as it is referred to scientifically, comes from Madagascar, and like all orchids, it is epiphytic, growing off tree trunks rather than in the ground. Reaching up to one metre in height, it usually blooms between June and September in its native habitat, but between December and January in North America and Europe. Its flowering time, combined with its appearance, has lent the orchid is common name, the Christmas Star Orchid. It has dark narrow leaves around thirty centimetres in length, and large waxy white flowers whose petals are roughly nine centimetres long. Most interesting, though, is the orchid’s thirty-centimetre-long nectary. It was a feature that particularly intrigued Charles Darwin. In 1862, James Bateman, a British orchid grower, sent a series of orchids to Darwin. A Sesquipedale was among them and Darwin was utterly fascinated. He reputedly wrote to his friend Joseph Hooker, then assistant director of the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, expressing something to the effect of ‘what a proboscis the moth that sucks it must have!’ Thus formed Darwin’s prediction that a creature with a tongue long enough to reach the orchid’s nectar reserves must have developed alongside the flower itself. Darwin’s hypothesis was based purely on the length of the orchid’s nectary and his understanding of evolutionary biology. More than four decades later, it was proven right: a Malagasy subspecies of the African hawkmoth - Xanthopan morganii praedicta - was discovered in 1907. The moth has a colossal wingspan of sixteen centimetres and a proboscis that easily exceeds twenty centimetres in length, which spirals into a neat coil when the moth is not feeding. But it would be much later, in 1992 - some 130 years after Darwin first predicted its existence - that the moth would actually be observed feeding upon the nectar of the Christmas Star Orchid. True to nature, and in a sort of ode to a naturalist’s patient ponderings, the elusive hawkmoth often features beside the beautiful orchid in botanical illustrations. We will be back in February 2024 with The Malta Independent on Sunday. For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 • sellul@independent.com.mt

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