Taste & Flair June 2022

ISSUE 147 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

FOOD · WINE · ARCHITECTURE · INTERIORS

JUNE 2022

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T&F EDITORIAL Mandy Mallia’s Tangy Cookies - photo by Megan Mallia. See feature on page 10.

Welcome O

ur June issue is something of culinary tour. Start the day with kahvaltı. The epic spread of sweet and savoury dishes that makes up a classic Turkish breakfast is an enticing culinary ritual. For lunch or dinner, turn to Leandro Carreira’s food from his home country, Portugal, or to Michael Diacono’s feature on Umbrian food, inspired by a family holiday in the forested hills of Umbria: “A few days in the stunning hills, a stay on a working and another couple of nights at a medieval period tower are just what we needed after the recent, bleak Covid19 years.” To satisfy a sugar-craving, try Claire Borg’s tempting red currant desserts, including the antipodean Pavlova; Louiselle Vassallo’s luscious almond and lemon cake topped with some of the last of the springtime strawberries; or Mandy Mallia’s zesty cookies with the flavour of Seville. In our regular wine feature, Andrew Azzopardi spotlights good wines from overlooked grape varieties from Portugal, France, Austria, Germany, Slovenia, and Hungary: “I’m on a mission to go out and buy a few wines that have fallen by the wayside over the years.” In our architecture and design section, we visit a contemporary interior designed around a busy lifestyle and look up at a transformed traditional stone townhouse that has been extended and reinterpreted, rather than demolished and replaced. We hope you enjoy this issue. We’ll be back in early July.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

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Cineraria is a hybrid of Pericallis cruenta and Pericallis lanata, species native to the Portuguese Azores and Madeira, and to Spain’s Canary Islands. It was first developed by the British Royal Gardens in 1777 and thrives in partial to full shade.

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T&F CONTENTS

p37

10

p46

Citrus cookies Mandy Mallia’s zesty biscuits

12

Food from the forested hills Michael Diacono’s Umbrian inspiration

28 p12

Forgotten grapes Andrew Azzopardi uncorks overlooked wines

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Sweet duo Claire Borg’s desserts

The food of Portugal Leandro Carreira recipes from his home country

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Springtime strawberry cake Louiselle Vassallo’s luscious dessert

48

The Turkish breakfast table Starting the day with a feast

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56

Room with a view Contemporary design

64

“Amor propju” Rethinking tradition

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76

Ananas The story of the pineapple

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T&F BAKING

TANGYCOOKIES Baking: Mandy Mallia • Photography: Megan Mallia

Fluffy and buttery, these tangy biscuits will work equally well with lemon zest and juice instead of those of Seville oranges. The dough may be prepared a day ahead. Although they will store well in an airtight container for a few days, the biscuits are best eaten the same day they are baked. They’re delicious both with iced tea or hot tea, or crumbled over ice cream.

Preparation: 20 minutes, plus 60 minutes’ resting time Cooking: 10-15 minutes Makes around 20 biscuits YOU WILL NEED

100g butter, at room temperature • 175g sugar zest of 1 Seville orange • juice of 1 Seville orange 1 egg • 200g plain flour • 1 or 2 pinches of salt ½ teaspoon baking powder Around 100g icing sugar (to roll the uncooked dough balls in)

1. Beat the butter and sugar

together in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Add the egg and the Seville orange zest. Beat lightly.

2. Add the Seville orange juice to the mixture, and beat again. The mixture may curdle slightly at this point.

3. Sift the flour into a separate bowl, add the baking powder and salt, and mix with a spoon.

4. Add the dry mixture to the wet ingredients bit by bit, mixing it in well each time.

Once all the flour mixture has been added to the bowl, mix the ingredients until a dough is formed. Cover the bowl and refrigerate it for an hour.

5. Meanwhile, preheat the

oven to 180°C (gas mark 4), line the baking trays with greaseproof paper, and sift the icing sugar into a plate.

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6. Once the dough has

chilled, scoop off a spoonful, roll it into a ball between your hands, then roll the dough ball lightly in the icing sugar and place it on a lined baking tray.

7. Repeat the above until all the dough has been used up, leaving around 5cm between each one on the tray, to allow for spreading as the dough balls cook.

8. Bake the biscuits in a

preheated oven for around 12 minutes until they turn lightly golden.

9. Leave the baked biscuits

on the baking tray until they have cooled down completely or they’ll break apart. They will crisp and firm up on cooling, while remaining light and fluffy inside.

BAKING T&F

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T&F CUISINE

Food from the

Inspiration from beautiful Umbria, a region known for hearty food and truffle-hunting.

Food: Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Photography: Brian Grech • Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi

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CUISINE T&F

Forested Hills

A

few days in the stunning hills, a stay on a working farm in Umbria and another couple of nights at a medieval period tower are just what we needed after the recent, bleak Covid 19 years. I have taken a few dishes from this fascinating region, which are not too complicated, to prepare at home. The porchetta might seem daunting at first but it isn’t really.

On our family trip, truffle hunting in Umbria was a highlight with Luca the “truffle man” cooking eggs al fresco,

liberally showering them with our recent truffle find while Mac, our guide, poured copious amounts of Prosecco to keep us well refreshed.

Seeing my youngest son, George, help Francesca, our hostess, prepare fresh pasta using turkey, goose and chicken eggs with so much gusto was such fun. Eating the results a few minutes later with yet more truffles was even more fun.

Thank you, Francesca, Mac, Fabiola, Luca, Zio, Dante, and Polly for a great time. A presto.

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T&F CUISINE

YOU WILL NEED:

3 kg piece of boneless pork belly, skin on • extra-virgin olive oil sea salt • 1 tablespoon fennel seeds • 4-6 cloves garlic 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1 handful parsley 1 small fennel bulb, cleaned and finely diced • salt and pepper 200g fresh pork liver, cut into very small cubes 1 small glass dry white wine • chili flakes a few fresh sprigs of rosemary, picked

Serves: 10

Preparation and cooking: approximately 4 hours, plus overnight drying

1. Ask your butcher to score

the skin on the pork belly.

Rub the skin all over with a very little extra-virgin olive oil, then season the skin very well with sea salt. Place the meat on a tray and leave it in the fridge overnight to dry.

2. The next day, heat a frying pan and toast the fennel seeds for a few seconds, then place them into a small bowl and set it aside.

3. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil n the same pan.

Fry the chopped fennel to soften it, but do not let it colour. Next, add the chopped pork liver.

Season with salt and pepper, then douse with the white wine. Let the wine evaporate, then take the pan off the heat.

4. Place the garlic on a chopping board. Add the parsley and picked rosemary leaves. Season with chili, salt and pepper, then use a sharp knife to chop everything coarsely.

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Recommended wine: A juicy and fruity Primitivo would be ideal.

Don’t be scared to chill the wine slightly on a warm summer eve 5. Remove the pork belly

from the fridge and place it skin down on a board.

Using a sharp knife, cut through the flesh at intervals being careful to not cut into the fatty layer. Rub it all over with the chopped parsley and rosemary mix, then sprinkle the toasted fennel seeds over it and, finally, add the fried fennel and pork liver.

6. Roll up the meat tightly

and secure it with kitchen twine. If using the spit in your oven, run the central rod through the rolled belly and secure the ends with the spikes. If roasting normally, place the meat on a wire rack over an oven dish half filled with water.

7. Set oven to 160°C (fanoperated). If using the spit, place an oven dish with water at the bottom of the oven. I also lined the drip tray with baking paper as it makes cleaning afterwards much easier.

8. Roast the meat, uncovered, for 3 hours, then raise the oven temperature to 200°C and cook it for a further 30 minutes for the skin to crisp up.

Porchetta To prepare a whole roast pig at home is no easy feat but to not include this recipe would be a great disservice to Umbrian cuisine. I find that using pork belly is a more than acceptable alternative for home cooks. It’s true that a debate exists as to which region is the true father to porchetta, but for the sake of this article, it’s definitely Umbria.

CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

Lentil Soup

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CUISINE T&F

Another of Umbria’s bounty is their lentils. Castelluccio lentils are famed for their flavour. They are also great as they keep their shape so well in cooking and do not turn into mush if forgotten on the fire for a minute too long. Although lentil soup is essentially a wintry recipe, I think it’s equally delicious served just warm on a balmy spring evening.

Serves: 4

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

Recommended wine: A refreshing Chianti Classico would pair with the earthiness of the dish. If you prefer a cool white wine for a warm summer evening, consider a wine with weight such as a Vouvray.

YOU WILL NEED

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 2 carrots, peeled and diced 1 stick celery or 2 thickish stalks of karfus, diced 2 fresh bay leaves 400g brown lentils, rinsed 1 glass dry white wine 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1.5 litres (approximately) water or stock salt and pepper

1. Put the extra-virgin olive oil into

a deep pot and heat it. Add the onion and garlic and stir fry them until they just start to colour.

2. Add the carrots, celery and bay leaves. Stir well and let the mixture cook for a minute or two.

3. Pour in the lentils and stir them till they are coated with the cooking juices. Next, pour in the white wine and reduce the liquid on high heat 4. Add the tomato paste and let it cook for a minute. Add the stock and season. Cover the pot and let it simmer gently for about 35 minutes. Add more liquid, if you prefer a thinner soup.

5. Serve drizzled with extra-

virgin olive oil.

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T&F CUISINE

Truffle, Mushroom and Anchovy Crostini

Sitting in the sun in the Piazza del Duomo of Orvieto for a bite to eat is a true joy. Sipping on aperitivos and munching on these tasty bites in front of that majestic building is all that one could wish for while on holiday.

Serves: 8-10 as nibbles

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

Recommended wine: Enjoying these crostini in a sunny Piazza del Duomo, requires nothing less than a top-quality Franciacorta from Lombardia.

YOU WILL NEED:

1 baguette 400g Chestnut or Portobello mushrooms 40ml extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and very finely chopped 80g fresh black Umbrian truffles, grated salt and pepper Anchovy fillets in extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Slice the

baguette on the diagonal and place the slices on baking sheets. Bake them till they turn golden brown, turning them once during cooking.

2. Run the mushrooms through a food processor to chop them finely but do not let them turn into mush. Set them aside.

3. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a pan. Add the garlic and cook it for a few seconds, then add the chopped mushrooms. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes to soften.

4. When they’re done, add the grated truffle and mix them in well.

Remove the pan from the heat at once as you should not leave truffle on the heat for long. Season well.

5. Spread the toasted baguette with

the paste while it still warm and top with an anchovy fillet. Serve at once.

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T&F CUISINE

Pasta alla Norcina

Norcia is the home of Umbrian truffles and cured meats. This famous pasta dish celebrates all this.

Serves: 5 as a starter

Preparation and cooking: 15 minutes

Recommended wine: Both aged Barolo and Barbaresco are two of the best-known truffle pairings. Either of these should finish this dish perfectly.

YOU WILL NEED

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 onion, peeled and chopped 400g Italian sausage, skin removed 1 glass dry white wine salt and pepper 100g fresh sheep’s milk ricotta 200ml fresh cream 400g rigatoni 60g or a bit more grated Pecorino fresh black truffle

1. Prepare a pot of salted water and

bring it to the boil. Add the pasta.

2. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil

in a saucepan. Add the garlic and onion and stir fry them till they soften, but do not let them colour.

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3. Add the sausage and use a wooden spoon to break up the meat. Cook it for a few minutes before adding the white wine.

4. Reduce the liquid on high heat, then season lightly with salt and freshly cracked pepper. Add the ricotta and cream and just heat through.

5. Meanwhile the pasta should be

cooking. Drain when very al dente and reserve some of the cooking water.

6. Add the pasta to the sauce

and use some of the cooking water to loosen it. Cook for just one minute while stirring.

7. Serve at once topped with lots of Pecorino and grated black truffle.

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T&F CUISINE

For dinner on Pasquetta, our hostess Francesca prepared this delicately flavoured lasagne using fresh spring asparagus with pork and fennel sausages.

No tomatoes or mozzarella - just Pecorino and a light white sauce. This is my take on that dish.

Serves: 6

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

Recommended wine: A good quality, aged Riesling would be my first choice, but I’d be equally happy with a premium quality Pinot Grigio or Grüner Veltliner

YOU WILL NEED:

a good glug of extra-virgin olive oil 400g Italian sausage scented with fennel seeds, skin removed 1 glass dry white wine some fresh parsley, finely chopped a few sage leaves, chopped 1 bunch fresh Gozo asparagus 150g grated Pecorino about 12 sheets lasagne FOR THE WHITE SAUCE

75g butter 150g flour 1.5 litres whole milk salt and pepper freshly grated nutmeg

1. Heat a good glug of extra-virgin olive oil in a pot. Add

the sausage and break it up using a wooden spoon as you fry it. Stir fry for about 5 minutes before dousing with the white wine. Let the wine evaporate, then remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the chopped parsley and sage.

Check and adjust the seasoning, and set the pan aside.

2. Make the white sauce in the usual manner by melting the butter, then stirring in the flour with a wooden spoon. Cook the mixture till a ball forms, then add the milk gradually while stirring all the time. Season with salt, pepper and freshly grated nutmeg.

3. Trim the asparagus by snapping away the tough bottoms. Use a sharp knife to chop them into small pieces. Set them aside.

4. Now, build your lasagne. Start by buttering a baking dish. Spread a little of the white sauce on the bottom, then cover this with lasagne sheets. Layer with white sauce, some cooked sausage, chopped asparagus and Pecorino. Repeat to use up all the ingredients, finishing with a top layer of white sauce and grated Pecorino.

5. Bake the lasagne in a preheated oven at 190°C

for 30 minutes until golden and bubbling. Let it stand for 10 minutes before serving.

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Francesca’s Asparagus and Sausage Lasagne

CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

“Luca’s” Eggs and Truffles

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CUISINE T&F

Very few ingredients make for this great dish served in so many trattorie. I learnt so much about truffles while in Umbria, and how grating the black truffle is better than shaving them as it brings out the flavour so much more. The horror that is “truffle” oil was also nowhere to be seen anywhere

Serves: 2 as a starter

Preparation and cooking: 5 minutes

Recommended wine: Quality truffles need quality wine, so seek out a premium-quality Burgundy Chardonnay.

YOU WILL NEED

extra-virgin olive oil 4 very fresh free-range eggs salt and pepper 1 black truffle

1. Heat a glug of extra-virgin olive oil

in a large frying pan on medium heat.

2. Crack the eggs into a bowl and season them with salt. Use a fork to beat them lightly then pour them into the pan.

3. Let the eggs sit for a few seconds before using a wooden spatula to start bringing them in from the edges to the middle, as in pulling the egg to the centre. Do not stir them and do not cook them through but leave them slightly loose.

4. Transfer the eggs to 2 warm plates. Grate the truffle all over and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Serve at once with bread.

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T&F CUISINE

Torta al Testo

A fixture on so many roadsides are the takeaway trucks selling porchetta, sliced and served in this traditional Umbrian flat bread. Umbria is also rightly famous for its numerous cured meats and salamis which are also served in torta al testo.

Makes: about 4 flat breads

Preparation, resting and cooking:30 minutes

YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour • ¼ tsp salt ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 20ml extra-virgin olive oil 250ml lukewarm water

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Recommended wine: The spiciness of an old-vines, Australian Grenache should pair perfectly with the cured meats

1. Sift the flour into a large bowl together with

the salt and bicarbonate of soda. Add the extravirgin olive oil and then pour in the water.

2. Mix the ingredients and bring them together into a dough. Knead it lightly on a floured surface, but do not overwork it. Transfer it to a plastic bag and leave to rest for 10 minutes.

3. Cut the dough into 4 equal portions. Use a rolling pin to roll out each piece on a floured surface. The rolledout rounds shoud be approximately 28cm in diameter.

4. Heat a large non-stick frying pan, then cook the “breads” one at a time for about 3 minutes on each side.

5. Serve these split open with cured meats, pecorino

and some salad leaves or thinly sliced porchetta.

T&F WINE

FORGO TEN

GRAPE VAR ETIES Some overlooked grape varieties are surprisingly good.

Andrew Azzopardi uncorks wines that have fallen out of fashion.

I

t was a random Monday morning and I was invited to a wine-tasting masterclass by a sommelier friend of mine who would never waste time introducing me to run-of-the-mill wines. I sat down to a brief introduction of an Austrian producer who specialised in Rieslings and Grüner Veltliner. I immediately disregarded the “boring” Grüner Veltliner which I stereotypically decided would be that high acid, simple wine,that, although fine most of the time, hasn’t really excited me enough recently.

But boy, was I wrong. This biodynamically-grown, 9-year-old Grüner Veltliner was sublime - aromatic notes of baked apple, enveloped in a zesty citrus acidity and a touch of complex earthiness. I was incredibly impressed with the freshness and youth of this aged Grüner Veltiner. How could I have forgotten that this grape can produce such quality wines?

I’m on a mission to go out and buy a few wines that have fallen by the wayside over the years. Those grapes that we tend to overlook because there are other grapes that have become more exciting and fashionable or because we weren’t tempted to try them in the first place. I have chosen four grapes that are way too often forgotten or overlooked simply because they’re perceived as un-exciting or just not stylish anymore.

If you want another good reason to try these wines, their quality-price ratio is often phenomenal.

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Grüner Veltiner

Viognier

I have to start with the grape that inspired me for this article – the Grüner Veltiner. Primarily grown in Austria, Germany, Slovenia, and Hungary, we usually expect it to produce fresh, light and very quaffable wines with a searing acidity. However, the best sites make wines that are almost Burgundian in style with white pepper, citrus and mineral, often chalky, notes when aged.

Grüner Veltiner literally means ‘green grape from the village of Veltlin in the Tirol’ and unsurprisingly Austrian Grüner is still one of the better examples.

Unfortunately, too many producers overcropped their vines resulting in simple wines with little character that are best drunk young. The finest Grüner Veltiner wines, often found on the Wachau’s famous south-facing terraces on the bank of the Danube, produce rich, dry and complex wines, some of which are aged in second-hand oak.

Thanks to quality-conscious producers these wines have become serious enough to compete with some of the biggest wines on the world stage.

In 2002, international critic Jancis Robinson was invited to a blind tasting of top Grüner Veltiner with an array of some of the world’s best Burgundian Chardonnays including Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne where she admittedly could not believe the results seven of the top ten placings were taken

by Grüner Veltiner.

I really cannot understand why Rhône Valley wines have lost so much of their popularity. Besides Châteauneufdu-Pape, Crozes-Hermitage, and the generic Côte du Rhône, we seem to forget there are nine other Crus from the Rhône valley, each with their own distinctive terroir. One of these is Condrieu – home to the forgotten Viognier grape.

Somewhat similar to Chardonnay, Viognier can produce some powerful and full-bodied wines with a rich and round character. The very best examples showcase beautiful fruity aromas of apricot, pears, peach, and honeysuckle, backed by a searing acidity and a fresh, mineral backbone.

Some great Viogniers also exhibit aromas of gingerbread, nutmeg, and a dash of vanilla. These structured wines are often aged in oak and left on their lees (dead yeast sediment) which add to the complexity and personality of the wine.

I find that Viognier is particularly food-friendly due to their rich and complex flavours and would be perfectly paired with richer dishes such as Monkfish, shellfish, creamy chicken, or even veal. I also find that the premium examples of new world viogniers from California, Australia or New Zealand are a great pairing with spicy Asian dishes. In the Rhône valley, Condrieu is considered the king of Viognier, but make sure to also check out Château-Grillet, which is an area close to Condrieu, but with its own Appellation d’origine contrôlée, and owned by one single producer.

WINE T&F

Gamay Just north of the Rhône valley, there is another region that is probably even more forgotten – Beaujolais. I can already hear your disapproval, but please hear me out on this. I understand that the last time you tried Gamay was probably in the style of Beaujolais Nouveau at a Christmas do, and the result was almost certainly pretty awful. I’m not a fan of the Nouveau-style either. I can just about stomach Beaujolais Nouveau if it’s slightly chilled and the atmosphere is great enough to make up for the lack of complexity or structure. However, it’s meant to be an easy-drinking, fun and fruity wine, with a slight bubble-gum or banana twist to it – and that’s fine.

If you’re after something more complex and appealing, Gamay has the potential to excite. All Beaujolais Villages wines are made with Gamay, and some of the best cru examples can give Burgundy a pretty good run for its money, and at a fraction of the cost.

Burgundy prices have risen so much they are quickly becoming out of reach to most of us and I’m quite sure that some Cru Beaujolais examples can fill in some of the gaps with ease.

There are 10 different Crus of Beaujolais, ranging from the light and floral Brouilly to the more structured and tannic Moulin-à-Vent. Each Cru is bottled and labelled with its Cru

Thanks to qualityconscious producers these wines have become serious enough to compete with some of the biggest wines on the world stage

so, rather than “Beaujolais”, it will be named “Fleurie” or “Morgon”, where each area has its own distinctive style, personality, and character. I strongly suggest you work your way through them to discover your style.

Though they are all quite different in style, Gamay produces lighter style wines with red fruit flavours similar to Pinot Noir, such as strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Moulin-à-Vent wines offer much complexity including earthy truffles, meaty flavours and spice. However, the more floral Fleurie exudes an unsurprisingly floral and feminine elegance. The second largest cru of Morgon offers a range of different styles thanks to its six different Climats, but the unifying schist soils are said to contribute to the cherry flavours often found in this wine.

These wines are food-friendly and are one of my go-to Christmas lunch wines. Their light body, fruity forward yet serious complexity, work wonders with the different foods on the table.

Fruit chutneys, poultry, pâtés, terrines, salmon and cheeses or charcuterie of different styles are not easy to pair, but Fleurie or Brouilly seem to hit the sweet spot. If I’m looking for something with a tad more weight, structure, and pose to stand up to duck or grilled pork or lamb, then I’d probably opt for the more structured Moulin-à-Vent, Morgon or Julineas.

Touriga Nacional Indigenous to Portugal, Touriga Nacional is one of the main blending grapes in Port wine that has only recently exploded on the scene as a dry wine. This low-yielding grape produces full bodied, fruity and tannic wines at an obscenely good value for money. I would say it’s more of a “new” undiscovered grape – rather than a forgotten one – with a lush and powerful character that has been likened to Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, and has since been gaining in popularity.

This grape variety thrives in the heat and is naturally big and deep, with teeth-staining richness of plum, blackberry, blueberry, cocoa, liquorice, and oftentimes a minty flavour. On the palate it frequently opens with a violet nuance backed by a rich plummy core.

These opulent wines are regularly aged in oak to soften the tannins.

The better examples are earthy and elegant and can age for quite some time. Their amazing quality-to-price ratio often make these wines a fantastic introduction to creating a wine cellar without breaking the bank, and a fantastic choice for your next lamb stew or barbecue. It’s also a great wine for larger numbers, where you don’t want to spend a fortune without sacrificing quality.

I’ll leave you with an interesting titbit of information. Touriga National has recently been introduced as one of the six new grape varieties chosen to help Bordeaux wine producers adapt to climate change. These new varieties have been approved by France’s national appellation body, and the first plantings took place last year.

Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, and the director of Vintage82.

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DESSERT T&F

SWEET

SURRENDER Red currants pair well with a sweet base. Their juicy tartness contrasts pleasantly with the sweetness of the dessert. If you find the Pavlova too sweet, try the red currant cake served with chilled yoghurt.

Baking and photography: Claire Borg

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T&F DESSERT

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DESSERT T&F

Red Currant Cake Half-way between a cheesecake and a yoghurt cake, this richly flavoured cake is alternately sweet and tart. Serve it cut into thick slices topped with a dollop of cold Greek yoghurt.

YOU WILL NEED:

150g cream cheese 150g Greek yoghurt 100g soft butter 200g sugar 4 egg yolks 10g baking powder 190g plain 00 flour zest of 1 lemon a few drops vanilla essence 4 punnets of red currants TO SERVE (OPTIONAL):

Greek yoghurt, chilled

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C. Line a 10”

baking tin with non-stick paper.

2. Put the softened butter and sugar in a bowl and use an electric mixer to beat them together at high speed for around three minutes.

3. Add the egg yolks and beat the mixture for another minute. Then add the zest, vanilla, cream cheese and yoghurt and whisk the mixture until it is very well combined.

4. Now, sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl and fold them in gently until the mixture is evenly combined.

5. Pour the cake batter into the lined baking tin. Use the

back of a wet spoon to smooth and flatten the mixture, then scatter the red currants over the top of the cake.

6. Bake in the preheated oven for around 40 minutes

or until an inserted skewer comes out clean. Let the cake cool down in the tin for approximately 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack and let it cool down completely before serving.

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T&F DESSERT

Pavlova Opinions differ over where the sweet, meringue-based dessert originated but there’s no dispute about its texture. Properly made, a pavlova should be crispy on the outside and soft and light on the inside.

YOU WILL NEED:

225g egg whites 410g sugar 1½ teaspoons vinegar TO SERVE:

whipped cream berries or red currants

1. Preheat the oven to

120°C and line a baking tray with non-stick paper.

2. Place the egg whites in an electric mixer and whisk them at a high speed until stiff peaks form.

3. Add the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking it in for 30 seconds before adding another tablespoonful.

Once all the sugar has been added, whisk the mixtures for a further 4 to 5 minutes or until it is stiff and glossy.

4. Add the vinegar and whisk the mixture until it is well combined and glossy.

5. Pile the meringue

mixture onto the lined baking tray and use the back of a spoon to spread it out evenly into a circle.

6. Place the tray in the

preheated oven and bake the meringue for 1 hour 30 minutes. Turn the oven off and allow the pavlova to cool completely in the oven.

7. To serve, scoop the whipped cream roughly over the top of the meringue and top it with berries or red currants.

The tart fruit goes especially well with the sweetness of the meringue.

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DELICATE DESIGN, POWERFUL FEATURES GROHE ESSENCE

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

FLAVOURS FROM THE

Very Italian

WORLD

Pizza

from Monday 6TH June

400g pack

frozen

Italiamo

Pizza “Arrabbiata”

Big on Quality, Lidl on Price

2.99

1kg = € 7.48

CUISINE T&F

THE FOOD OF

Portugal: The Cookbook, by Leandro Carreira, is published by Phaidon

PORTUGAL

“The richness and diversity of Portugal’s regional cuisines spring from a symbiosis of livelihood systems, of farmers and fishermen, of monastic and aristocratic traditions, and of influences and ingredients from faraway lands.” Leandro Carreira Food: Leando Carreira Food photography: Mário Ambrózio and Rafael Rodrigues at Raw Studio

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T&F CUISINE

Gaspacho Alentejo Style Gaspacho Alentejano Region: Alentejo This ice-cold soup is the ideal refreshment for the boiling hot summer days in Alentejo, requiring no stove heat in its preparation since all the ingredients are used raw. Gaspacho varies depending on the region of Alentejo — finely sliced ham is one of the toppings in Mértola, but olives are added in Sobral da Adiça. It is served in some Alentejo restaurants alongside a tray of fish (tiny fried sardines, normalsized grilled sardines, or fried horse mackerel). This same recipe is called arjamolho in the Algarve region, where it is usually eaten with grilled sardines.

Preparation: 25 minutes Serves: 6 YOU WILL NEED:

2 garlic cloves, peeled 3 ripe bull’s heart tomatoes (or beefsteak tomatoes), de-seeded and cut i0nto strips 1½ large white onions, very thinly sliced 1 green (bell) pepper, cored, de-seeded and cut into strips 1 red bell pepper, cored, de-seeded and cut into strips ½ tablespoon fresh or dried oregano 150 ml extra virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar 250g bread, preferably sourdough, cut into small cubes sea salt TO GARNISH (OPTIONAL)

85g ham, very thinly sliced 60g chorizo, very thinly sliced

1. Put the garlic and a pinch of salt into a mortar

and, using a pestle, mash it to a smooth paste.

2. Transfer the garlic paste to a large bowl

and add the tomatoes, onions, both bell peppers, oregano, olive oil and vinegar.

3. Pour in 1.6 litres cold water and mix together.

Season with salt, then add the bread cubes.

4. Place the bowl in the fridge and leave

to chill until ready to serve.

5. Serve the chilled soup when very cold. Garnish

with the sliced meats before serving, if using.

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CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

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CUISINE T&F

Fried Baby Horse Mackerel with Verjus Sauce Joaquinzinhos de Agraço / Chicharros de Agraço Region: Açores Preparation: 20 minutes, plus 20 minutes standing time Cooking: 20 minutes Serves 4 YOU WILL NEED:

1.2 kg baby horse mackerel cornflour (cornstarch), for coating 2 onions, peeled and finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1 pimenta da terra or a red long pepper, de-seeded and finely chopped 150 ml white wine vinegar 1/3 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 220 ml olive oil sea salt

1. Clean the mackerel, removing the scales. Cut off the heads and set them aside. Using a sharp knife, make an incision in the belly and remove the guts, then rinse the fish under cold running water and leave them to drip on a perforated tray or in a colander. Season them with salt.

2. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place a clay baking

tray or a baking sheet in the oven to heat up.

3. Dust the mackerel with cornflour, shaking off any excess. Place the fish on the hot baking tray or sheet and cook them for 20–25 minutes, or until lightly golden.

4. Remove the mackerel from the baking tray and set them aside.

5. Meanwhile, combine the onions, garlic and pepper

together in a large bowl, then season with salt and add the vinegar. Set this aside for 10 minutes.

6. Add the chopped parsley and olive oil to the

bowl, then stir thoroughly to combine.

7. Arrange the fish on a serving plate and pour the sauce over

the top. Leave to stand for 10 minutes before serving.

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T&F CUISINE

Corn Porridge with Wedge Shell Clams Xerém de Conquilhas Region: Algarve Xerém is the Arab name for this papas de milho (corn porridge) that is still cooked in many villages of the Algarve, especially during winter. Similar to the Middle Eastern hares, a dish of boiled, cracked or coarsely-ground wheat, xerém calls for fine-ground corn instead of wheat. This is another recipe that perfectly represents the Islamic influence on the Algarve, a region once known as Garb Al-Andalus. Xerém is usually served with clams, but some recipes include cockles, prawns, or even chouriço.

Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 12 hours soaking Cooking time: 45 minutes Serves: 4 YOU WILL NEED:

1.8kg conquilhas or wedge shell clams or palourde clams, surf clams or even cockles 120g smoked bacon, thinly sliced 150g chorizo, thinly sliced 100g Serrano ham, thinly sliced 280 ml white wine 180g corn flour or 180g fine semolina, sifted sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. The day before preparing this dish, scrub the shells of the clams to remove

any dirt. Discard any that don’t close when their shells are tapped. Rinse the clams several times under cold running water to remove any sand and grit, then put them into a large bowl and pour in enough water to cover.

2. Add enough fine sea salt to make a brine with 1% salt and stir well.

Do not add too much salt this may kill the clams. Leave to stand in the fridge for 12 hours. This will help to expel any sand inside the clams.

3. The next day, drain the clams and put them into a large saucepan. Add 150ml water, cover with a lid and cook gently over a low heat for 5 minutes, or until they open. Strain the clams through a sieve into a large bowl and set the cooking liquid aside. Remove the clams from their shells and set them aside.

4. Fill a small saucepan with hot water (or other shellfish

stock if you have any) and set the pan on a low heat.

5. Put the meat into a large saucepan and cook it over a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the clams cooking liquid and the wine and bring it to the boil.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the corn flour or semolina and mix well.

6. Put the pan over a low heat and cook, stirring continuously, for 10 minutes, or until the mixture thickens. It should be creamy and moist. If it is becoming too dry during cooking, add some of the hot water or stock.

7. Add half the clams, mix well and taste and adjust the seasoning with pepper,

if necessary. Finish the dish with the remaining clams and meat on top.

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CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

Limpets with Pink Peppercorns Lapas com Molho Afonso Region: Açores

The longer you cook limpets, the worse they become. They are one of those shellfish that lose their natural juices and turn rubbery when overcooked, so make sure that you keep it brief.

Preparation and cooking: 40 minutes Serves 6 YOU WILL NEED:

2.5 kg limpets 150 ml extra virgin olive oil 2 onions, peeled and chopped into small pieces 6 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 12 pink peppercorns ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Wash the limpets twice in

cold water, scrubbing the shells with a small brush to remove any remaining dirt.

2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a low heat.

Add the onions and garlic and cook for 10 minutes without colouring them.

3. Add the peppercorns and cook gently for a further 5 minutes, then add the parsley and season with black pepper.

4. Add the limpets to the pan and mix well. Increase the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring the pan at least twice. Be careful not to overcook the limpets otherwise they will become rubbery.

5. Taste and adjust the

seasoning, if necessary, before serving.

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T&F BAKING

STRAWBERRY ALMOND CAKE Soaked in lemon syrup and topped with springtime strawberries and almonds, this moreish cake is refreshing served with yogurt and mint.

Baking: Louiselle Vassallo

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BAKING T&F

YOU WILL NEED:

130g all-purpose flour 70g almond flour 2 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 113g unsalted butter, softened 200g sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 lemons, take the zest 3 large eggs, room temperature 125g sour cream, room temperature 2 tablespoons lemon juice TOPPING:

25g almond slivers a handful of strawberries FOR THE SYRUP:

70g sugar 3 tablespoons lemon juice TO SERVE:

Greek yogurt Fresh mint leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350°C and line

until an inserted skewer comes out clean. This will take around 35 minutes.

2. Put all the dry ingredients in a bowl and stir them together.

Set the bowl aside.

7. Just before the cake is done, put the lemon juice in a small pan, add the sugar and place the pan over a very low heat. Stir the mixture until the sugar dissolves completely.

a 23cm tin with non-stick paper.

3. Put the butter and sugar in a bowl and whisk them until they are pale and fluffy (around ten minutes).

4. Add the lemon zest and vanilla

and stir. Next, add the eggs one at a time, beating the mixture for around a minute after you add each one.

5. Add half of the dry ingredients to

the mixture and stir them in well. Add the lemon juice and sour cream and mix again. Now, add the remaining dry ingredients and stir them in.

6. Pour the cake batter into the lined

baking tin and sprinkle the almond slivers over the top. Bake the cake

8. Remove the cake from the oven,

once you’re sure that it’s properly cooked. Quickly prick the top all over using a skewer and then drizzle the cake with the lemon syrup.

9. Let the cake cool down in the

baking tin for around ten minutes and then remove it from the tin to let it cool down completely.

10. Once the cake is cool, wash

and halve the strawberries and arrange them on the top.

Serve with a dollop of chilled yogurt topped with fresh mint leaves.

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T&F CUISINE

Turkish Kahvalt Traditional Turkish breakfast is a feast for the senses and a satisfying culinary ritual.

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T

he Turkish breakfast table is a sight to behold, laden with eggs that are boiled, fried, or scrambled with tomatoes, pepper and onions to make menemen, or murtuğa, a thick, crumbly dish made of eggs, butter and flour, and a variety of cheeses, including feta and kasseri;. In Van, the breakfast capital of Turkey, the kahvaltı table includes otlu peynir, a slightly crumbly cheese spiked with sirmo (wild garlic) harvested from the nearby mountains, and cacığı, which is similar to tzatziki but with green pepper, parsley and onion added to the garlic and cucumber in the yoghurt base.

There are pastries filled with cheese or olives, sigara börek stuffed with cheese and fried to a crisp, and tray-baked börek filled with herbs. Acuka, a thick paste made from red peppers,

CUISINE T&F

Çay Spiced tea

Turkish tea is normally made in a double kettle – one to brew the tea and another for additional boiling water. Instead of a double kettle, which uses only one source of heat, you could use two stackable pans. The tea is made with black tea leaves and comes in three strengths: strong dark teas known as koyu; medium deep brownish red teas called tavşan kanı, which means “rabbit’s blood”; and weak light teas called açık. Traditionally, the tea is drunk while hot, and the serving glasses are constantly topped up from a pot bubbling away. In warm weather, chill the çay and serve it over ice.

Serves 4 Preparation: 20 minutes, plus chilling time, if preferred YOU WILL NEED

4 teaspoons black tea leaves – Assam tea is a good base 4 cupfuls water, plus more to top up 200g dried apple pieces 6 cloves 4 cinnamon sticks honey to taste

1. Put four cupfuls of water into a small pan.

tomatoes, walnuts, and garlic, and a close relation of the Arabic muhammara, is set beside green and black olives, sausages and preserved meats. You’ll also find kaymak, a version of clotted cream; pekmez, molasses made from grapes or figs; sliced tomatoes and cucumbers; and butter, honey, and jam.

The daunting array is incomplete without a bread basket that typically includes flat, unleavened bread, fried pişi, and simit, the baked sesame-encrusted bread rings that are sold by street vendors throughout the day but which take pride of place at breakfast time, and an endless supply of çay, spiced tea poured from a double boiler that bubbles away in the background to constantly top up the glass mugs in which the çay is served.

Put the rest of the water into the other pan.

Stack the pans and place them on medium heat. Bring the water to the boil.

2. Add the dried apple, cloves, and cinnamon to the top pot and let it simmer for 10-12 minutes. Top it up with water from the bottom pan, if necessary.

3. Add the black tea leaves to the top pot and turn down the heat. Let the tea leaves brew for three minutes. Remove the pans from the heat.

4. Strain the tea into glass mugs. If serving this hot, simply add honey to sweeten the tea to taste. If serving this cold, allow the liquid to cool down naturally before chilling it in the fridge.

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T&F CUISINE

Menemen Scrambled eggs with tomatoes, pepper, and onions

Menemen is a distinctly Turkish breakfast food and no breakfast spread is complete without some variation of this popular dish. It is made from eggs and tomatoes and spiced with hot peppers, occasionally, onions. It is served all year round but comes into its own in the summer months, when tomatoes are fresh from the fields and sunripened. The texture is part omelette, part scrambled eggs. It is cooked slowly and, unlike scrambled eggs, it is stirred only occasionally so the eggs don’t scramble completely.

Serve this topped with feta cheese and with warm flatbread on the side.

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YOU WILL NEED:

4 large eggs 4 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil 1 medium white onion, peeled and diced 200g heirloom tomatoes, peeled and very finely chopped 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 green pepper, deseeded and chopped ¼ teaspoon Aleppo pepper ½ teaspoon dried oregano freshly ground black pepper salt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter TO SERVE:

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley feta cheese, diced flatbread

1. Place a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Add the

olive oil and let it warm up. Add the chopped onion, Aleppo pepper and oregano, salt and freshly ground black pepper.

2. Cook until the onion becomes transluscent (around 7 minutes), then stir in the chopped green pepper and cook until it softens (around 5 minutes longer). Add the chopped tomatoes to the onion and pepper mix and stir.

3. Crack the eggs into a bowl and whisk them vigorously until they foam up.

4. Now, add the butter to the pan and stir in 4 tablespoonfuls of parsley. Turn down the heat and pour the whisked eggs into the pan.

5. Let the mixture cook and stir it occasionally until the

eggs set into soft clumps. This will take 3-4 minutes.

6. Remove the pan from the heat and

adjust the seasoning to taste.

7. Sprinkle the diced feta cheese and the remaining parsley over the top of the cooked eggs and place the pan on the breakfast table.

NEW

PEANUT BUTTER

The delicious new flavor of goodness.

T&F CUISINE

Simit

Simit vendors are a familiar sight in downtown Istanbul. The popular street food is a staple at the breakfast table and is also served at any time of day. Simit are best eaten on the day they are made but can be frozen in an airtight container for up to a month.

Makes: 8 simit Preparation: 40 minutes,

plus 60 minutes rising time Baking: 15-18 minutes YOU WILL NEED:

500g plain flour 3 teaspoons dried yeast 360ml lukewarm water 80ml water at room temperature 1½ teaspoons sea salt 1 pinch sugar 125ml grape or fig molasses 235g sesame seeds

1. Pour 60ml lukewarm water into

a mixing bowl, add the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Sprinkle in the yeast and set the bowl aside while the yeast activates. When the mixture is foamy, add 300ml lukewarm water.

2. Mix the flour and salt together in a separate bowl. Pour in the yeast mixture and stir it in steadily until a rough dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead it until it is smooth and elastic (around 6 minutes).

3. Roll the dough into a ball and put it in a lightly oiled bowl. Drape a damp cloth over the top and set the bowl aside in a warm place until the dough doubles in size.

This will take 45-60 minutes.

4. Heat the oven to 220°C and line

a large baking tray with non-stick paper. Knock back the dough and divide it evenly into eight pieces.

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5. Mix the molasses with 80ml water

in a wide bowl and scatter the sesame seeds on a large, flat plate.

6. Roll out one piece of dough into

two “ropes” around 50cm long, fold them back in half, then twist them together. Press the ends together to seal them properly to form a circle.

Repeat with the other dough pieces.

7. Dip each dough ring into the molasess mixture until it is coated all over. Hold the ring over the bowl to drain the excess liquid, then toss it in the sesame seeds until it is well coated. Put the seed covered dough ring on the lined baking tray. Repeat with the other dough rings.

Set the tray aside for around 20 minutes to allow the dough rings to puff up.

8. Bake the dough rings in the preheated

oven for 15-18 minutes until they are cooked through and the outer surface turns a dark golden colour. Remove the tray from the oven and transfer the cooked dough rings to a wire rack to let them cool down completely.

T&F PROMOTION

BROADSIDE TERRACE

Unexpected Bliss

L

iving on a tiny island gives you a false sense of confidence. We pride ourselves in knowing where the latest “in place” or trendy hangout is… where to go for the best cup of coffee, the most mouth-watering slice of cake, the cheesiest pizza, and so on. And yet, the island is full of well-kept secrets. Such as a pebbly beach, which can only be reached after a 20-minute mini-hike and a clamber down some rocks, the ironmonger tucked away in the side streets of a village, or the solitary bench on a desolate road which offers you a chance to rest your feet and enjoy the most spectacular of views.

This is why Broadside Terrace is a surprise. Housed within one of the island’s most prominent 5-star hotels - Corinthia St George’s Bay - is this little slice of paradise. A resto-lounge, with an open-air kitchen which cooks up delicious cuts of

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meat as well as beautiful fresh fish. As exquisite as the menu may be, however, the beauty and charm of Broadside extend well beyond the cuisine.

Just picture an expansive terrace with a fully-furnished bar at its centre - tables and chairs, armchairs and coffee tables dotting its circumference; soft circular floor lamps enhancing the space, complementing the candle-lit tables that overlook the breathtaking bay. The ambience is everything, especially in the warmer months, when we gravitate outdoors, and when we crave a salty, cooling sea breeze.

The view is something else. Because the area is so densely packed with commercial outlets, clubs and entertainment centres, we often overlook the more relaxed areas of St Julian’s, Paceville and Pembroke. It is here, on this Terrace, that you realise how you can be close to the island’s nightlife centre and still discover a calm, tranquil and relaxing space.

PROMOTION T&F

At Broadside, it’s painfully easy to achieve and indulge in this sense of calm. All you need is a table overlooking the bay, facing the classical architecture of the Dragonara Casino and extending towards the neverending horizon. Sitting at one of the tables, perhaps with company, but perhaps also solo, with a chilled glass of wine, or an expertly-prepared cocktail by the in-house mixologist, you can feel yourself unwind.

The glorious sunsets play an important part - the gradual, yet palpable alteration of light, the plays of colour and the reflections on the surface of the water or on the window panes of distant buildings are pleasantly relaxing. n Broadside Terrace is open daily, from 5.30 pm onwards, for dinner, drinks, or bar bites.

To book a table, visit: https://www.broadsideterrace.com/ Free parking is available for patrons.

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T&F INTERIORS

ROOM

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INTERIORS T&F

WITH A VIEW

It’s not always easy to find what you want, even though you usually know it when you see it. One home owner found inspiration – and everything she needed – all in one place.

Photography: Jeremy Debattista

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T&F INTERIORS

The process was very much about presenting proposals we believe in and guiding our client

P

acking up your life and possessions to move them into a new home can be a stressful time, shot through with multiple micro-decisions of what to take with you, what to leave behind and where and how to replace it.

Shopping around for your home is fun when you have the time for it. When you’re juggling multiple commitments at once, it’s another problem added to an already long to-do list. Anything that helps shorten that list feels like a blessing, especially interior design advice that comes without any strings attached.

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The interior design process is about knowing your client. Questions about personal preferences for colour schemes and furniture styles are part of the conversation. A good designer will begin by asking about what the client does and how they live, whether they want their home to be a personal retreat or a place for entertaining family and friends. Do they like to cook? Do they work from home? How long do they plan to stay there? Are they there for the long-term or do they plan to move after a while?

The answers to those questions help to shape the way a new home is designed.

INTERIORS T&F

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T&F INTERIORS

“O

ur client came here because she wanted to purchase a sofa for a new property she was about to start furnishing as she was pleased with the previous one bought from us,” says Julian Galea at Form. “She has a busy life, raising a daughter and developing and running her own business, so we helped her plan her new home. She was moving into a seafront flat with a view of a yacht marina and wanted a stylish, contemporary interior, but she also wanted it to be a comfortable home that she could relax in at the end of a long day.”

The apartment was newly built and taken on in shell form, which meant there was plenty of scope for personalising the space. “We advised on how to organize the layout and helped our client create mood boards for the finishes, like tiling and light fittings.

This is not a service we charge for when we get a lead by the customer that they plan to use Form as their exclusive furniture supplier. The process was very much about presenting proposals we believe in and guiding our client. The end result is very much her own. We made recommendations and she took up some of our suggestions, but she had her own ideas too.”

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Our client came here because she wanted to purchase a sofa for a new property she was about to start furnishing

MAXI SLIDING PANELS, SELF BOLD CABINET. DESIGN GIUSEPPE BAVUSO

Form Ltd Valley Road, Msida T 21446000 infodesk@form.com.mt form.com.mt rimadesio.com

T&F INTERIORS

T

he existing layout didn’t really suit the client’s lifestyle, so it was reorganised to be a better “fit”. “The kitchen had been planned to be in a different area,” Julian Galea says, “Our client wanted the open-plan space rearranged so that the living area would be more prominent and enjoy better views.” The airy three-in-one space now has a sleek kitchen, adjoining dining area, and a living area that flows onto a comfortably-sized terrace with views over the marina.

“Our client chose a black matt glass kitchen which seems high maintenance but is in fact very practical,” Julian Galea says. “The cupboard fronts are scratch-resistant and really easy to clean. There is only one work surface, which means minimal daily maintenance, but there are also a wine fridge and two ovens, which makes this perfect for entertaining. The dining

table is in diecast aluminium with a sleek profile and a beautiful wood veneer top, and it’s paired with chairs in a classic Eames design. We don’t supply the chairs ourselves, but we sourced them for our client because they work well here.”

The living area is set off from the kitchen and dining spaces by a large sofa with a built-in recliner, its soft lines and slate-blue upholstery recalling the sight of the sea in the early morning.

“We took inspiration from the seaview,” Julian Galea says. Most of the materials are non-synthetic – wood veneer in the wall unit and dining table, a marbletopped desk. In contrast, the coffee table is hexagonal and in black glass, echoing the smoothness of the kitchen units. The overall effect is stylish, but practical and comfortable, and not in need of too much maintenance. Just right for a busy person. n

A good designer will begin by asking about what the client does and how they live

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

AMOR PROPJU An old Sliema townhouse has been adapted to new use, while preserving and complementing the external architecture Architecture, photography, and renders: Sammut Alessi and Aquilina.

Construction: Archimed Projects.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

“Creative architectural languages could enhance our streetscapes, retain our cultural heritage, contribute to the touristic product and still meet today’s market requirements.”

I

f you have walked down Tower Road in Sliema recently, you may have noticed an unusual façade on what was, up until not too long ago, a dilapidated old stone townhouse.

The building is in the town’s commercial heart, located at what might be termed a trade junction. But, though it is well within the planning development zone, the building is unusual in that, rather than having been totally demolished and replaced with a soulless new building, its external architecture has been retained and integrated into a new holistic design that won the Public Vote Award in the MASP awards 2021, which took place last February.

The original building consisted of two shops at ground floor level and a residence on the first and second floor levels.

The original front elevation included unusual variations of traditional features – a closed timber balcony with 10 windows at first floor level, and balconies with wrought iron panelling in a timber frame on the second floor. Both are unusual for buildings in Sliema dating from the same period, but the building had become dilapidated through years of neglect and its roofs and structural floor slabs were beyond repair, which meant total restructuring was essential.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

the extension was designed with a focus on complementing the building’s original features, creating a more elaborate architectural interplay of elements

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T

he replacement building was proposed as a highend office block, finished to a high standard, with an underlying retail shop at ground floor level. However, “the owner wanted to retain and restore the front elevation of the building, and enhance it with an architecturally articulated extension,” Kurt Sammut Alessi says. “I was given carte blanche to design the façade. In practice, I could have just copy-pasted the same design on upper floors, repeating the pattern of the original building. There are many examples of this in today’s Sliema.

“In practice, you have three options when designing an extension. You either do something completely different, which is added on the original elevation. You can copy-paste an existing design, repeating it on all the upper floors. Or you can create new architectural language that respects the old, and adds value. I wanted to create something that is visually appealing, a contemporary re-adaptation and reinterpretation of traditional language to today’s built fabric.”

T&F ARCHITECTURE

W

hen researching an appropriate design for the elevation, the architect factored in the incorporation of site-sensitive elements which complement the design of the original building façade. The features within the front elevation were retained in their entirety, and the extension was designed with a focus on complementing the building’s original features, creating a more elaborate architectural interplay of elements and integrating the old and the new parts of the façade.

“I did extensive research, looking at facades; studying other facades, analyzing what worked and what didn’t work. The building extension wasn’t designed to mimic the underlying floors, but rather to add to the architectural language of the façade itself,” Sammut Alessi says. “I explored different ideas. The site is now a statement of what we can do as a country – re-interpret and integrate the old with the new, rather than replacing it.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

“T

he varied architectural interplay of elements between floors creates visual interest as well as verticality.

The bas-relief sculpture at the uppermost opra morta was inspired by the design of the original wrought iron railings.

I deconstructed and reconstructed the railing motif, taking the visual cues and exploring different architectural forms.

Around the windows, I reinterpreted the art deco motifs which are so typical of Sliema. Design is in the detail: The extension was subdivided into three sections to break up the mass of the building volume. The circular sculptural elements frame each section, and are vertically aligned with the elements below. Furthermore, the uppermost cornice was accentuated to end the vertical extension and create a “crown” for the building.

“The corbels beneath the uppermost closed balcony have been extended more than the ones below, accentuating the height of the building as the eye travels upwards. You can still distinguish the original building from the extension, but now the façade looks whole.”

“The success of the project is the result of a joint effort between all stakeholders,” he adds, going on to name the building’s owner, Mr Alfred Gera De Petri, his architectural practice, Sammut Alessi and Aquilina, as well as the sculptor and the various contractors. “The aesthetic design of the building was carried out by myself, while the structural design was carried out in conjunction with Perit Godwin J. Aquilina. There was good synergy among all the key players.

All stakeholders were very much aligned in creating a project which is not only a successful business venture but also adds value to our built heritage and environment.

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The bas-relief sculpture at the uppermost opra morta was inspired by the design of the original wrought iron railings.

“I

firmly believe that this type of project should be strongly encouraged. There can be a reinterpretation of traditional elements, more use of Maltese stone in development zones, which is not a planning obligation.

The beauty of stone is that it changes over time, adding to its aesthetic value. Creative architectural languages could enhance our streetscapes, retain our cultural heritage, contribute to the touristic product and still meet today’s market requirements. There is sense in creating something that can be enjoyed by future generations, just like we are able to enjoy what was created by those who came before us.

“Many people asked me why I did this. They are surprised that I took the time and care to reinterpret the façade as a whole. They want to know what my motive is. It’s amor propju. I am proud to re-interpret Maltese architectural traditional elements, to re-create visual interest, and help to create a sense of place and belonging. Many imagine that it costs a lot more than simply building an austere extension.

The overall cost of creating a holistic design wasn’t much higher than if the façade had been plain or repetitive. We need more of this sort of thing and I hope that this project will inspire others to take the same attitude.”

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T&F FOOD HISTORY

THE

P NE APPLE O

n the second voyage to the New World in 1493, Christopher Columbus and his crew encountered a fruit which they had never seen before. One of them described it as being “in the shape of a pine cone, twice as big, which fruit is excellent and it can be cut with a knife, like a turnip and it seems to be wholesome.”

Its resemblance to a pine cone gave rise to the fruit’s English name of pineapple, while its Latin name Ananas comes from the word nana, which was the indigenous Caribbean people’s name for the plant. People in the region at the time valued the fruit highly, placing it outside their homes to welcome visitors. Later, Europeans adopted this habit and began to use the pineapple motif in stone and wooden carvings on gateposts and doorways.

The presence of pineapples in the islands of the Caribbean in the 15th century was not a natural occurrence, but the result of long centuries of native migration and trade. Navigating in canoes, maritime tribes explored, raided and traded across vast expanses of tropical seas and oceans, and through river systems. The pineapple, which like the banana is a large herb, originally evolved in the area that is now Brazilian and Paraguayan territory. Its fruit was a staple of native feasts and rites.

The Europe to which Columbus returned from his exploratory travels was one largely bereft of sweets. The pineapple kept reasonably well on long sea voyages and when the fruit reached Europe, it could be chewed for its sweetness. But because of the climate in Europe, the pineapple could not be grown in its own market, until clever hoticulturalists devised the means of hot-housing them. By the late 17th century, pineapples were being grown even in cold Scotland, under cover,

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De verbelende ananas self Cornelis Markée, c. 1763.

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Charles II Presented with a Pineapple, British School, c.1675-80, Royal Collection Trust

cover, but they remained rare and very costly – so much so that King Charles II posed for an official portrait, attributed to Hendrick Danckerts, in the act then seen as symbolic of privilege: receiving a pineapple as a gift from his head gardener, John Rose. The pineapple’s rarity, expense and striking visual attractiveness made it the ultimate in exotic fruit. It was used to “crown” important feasts, held aloft on a special pedestal on the buffet table.

Up until the 20th century, ships brought to Europe pineapple flesh that had been preserved at source in the Caribbean. These expensive sweetmeats were chunks of pineapple, candied, glazed and packed in sugar. Only the speediest clippers backed by fortuitous winds could deliver ripe pineapples to the ports of Europe and North America, where a hostess’ ability to obtain a pineapple for an important party said as much about her financial status as it did about her resourcefulness. So expensive were pineapples that confectioners sometimes rented them to hostesses for the evening. The hostess would go to great lengths to conceal the fact that her pineapple was rented. n

Still Life with Pineapple, Grapes, and Orange Paul La Croix c. 1860.

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Above: Johan Nieuhof (1618-1672); Jean-Baptiste Le Carpentier (1606-ca. 1670) - Description générale de l'empire de la Chine. Below: Ananas comosus - Flora de Filipinas - Francisco Manuel Blanco (O.S.A.) c. 1860.

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T&F TRENDS

p Marc Sadler explores the infinite possibilities of Slamp’s technopolymers with Accordèon, conjuring the image of a textile plissé or an accordion’s bellows.

The newly launched battery-charged table version features a transparent shade finished in satin white, ensuring uniform lighting, and a white or matte black base and a semi-matte satin anodised aluminum stand, ensuring additional stability.

Accordèon is perfect alone to illuminate an intimate dinner, or in multiples for events. The battery lasts up to 60 hours and can be recharged in multiples using the designated station. Find SLAMP exclusively available at ESS Ltd in Imriehel. p Made exclusively from Malta-grown Vermentino grapes, Meridiana’s ASTARTE DOK has a straw-yellow colour and is characterised by intense aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with hints of flowers. Its palate is fresh with a pleasantly acidic finish. Distributed by S Rausi Trading Ltd, Gzira, T. 2133 0447, M. 7909 3197, info@srausi.com www.meridiana.com.mt

p Closet Envy - Panorama walk-in wardrobe by San Giacomo. Designing a walk-in wardrobe needs careful planning, our experienced design team is here to help you create the perfect home for your clothes. Available exclusively from Satariano, 122, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara.

p Ideal Standard Brassware that make dramatic statements. Featuring: Joy wallmounted shower mixer and Ideal rain showering accessories in brushed gold and Joy vessel mixer in brushed gold. Exclusively from Satariano, 122, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara.

The next issue will be out in July with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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t A selection of four different rocks from the four corners of the world! Stone Box

by Novabell Ceramiche is NEW collection of Porcelain stoneware developed for outdoor use. Available in various sizes to accentuate patterns and colours.

Exclusively from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara.

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt