Angus Larder - Third Edition by List Publishing Ltd

Angus

Larder THIRD EDITION

52 GREAT FOODS FROM ANGUS

52 Great Foods from Angus

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Discover your own taste of Angus at the many local restaurants, cafĂŠs, farm shops and markets. From summer berries to the freshest seafood and the finest beef, you can savour the taste of good food the way it should be. For details of where to eat, where to buy and how to cook the fantastic local produce, plus much more, visit www.atasteofangus.com 2â&#x20AC;&#x2C6;Angus Larder

@tasteofangus

Introduction The Angus Larder Part of The Larder series of food and drink publications thelarder.net

Editor Donald Reid, eat@list.co.uk Editorial assistance Jay Thundercliffe, Megan Welford Writing & research Hannah Ewan, Louise Gray, Sarah Milne, David Pollock, Maud Sampson, Jay Thundercliffe Design & Production Carys Tennant Map Angus Council Cover Angus Strawberries and Karacka Blackberries by Dr. Jillian McEwan of Fresh Food Express Publishers Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain Larder Project Director Peter Brown ©2017 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of The List Ltd.

The List Ltd 14 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TE Tel: 0131 550 3050 list.co.uk Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication, however the publishers can accept no responsibility for any errors it may contain.

ngus food and drink is on the move. In recent years this fertile patch of farmland, hill and coastline in northeast Scotland has found its voice in celebrating the produce it can call its own, from recipes and production methods handed down through generations to exciting new innovations and dynamic food enterprises. This brand new third edition of the Angus Larder showcases the pride of the region’s produce and culinary scene, introducing 52 representatives of the best local food and drink (one for each week of the year) embracing the old and new, familiar and niche, personal and universal, as well as some inspiring ways to use local produce provided by local chefs, cooks, and food champions. Just as importantly, the Angus Larder helps you to find these riches, with practical listings both in print and online to the shops, markets, festivals, cafés, stalls and restaurants where food and drink from Angus is being served.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The Angus Larder has been developed by The List working with Angus Council and A Taste of Angus. The editor would like to thank all those who have supported its publication and provided valuable assistance, encouragement and resources, in particular Jillian McEwan and The Food Life partnership. EDITORIAL SELECTION: The editorial content of all guides in The Larder series including the Angus Larder is independently researched, written and produced by The List. As consumer-oriented guides to local food and drink, all the businesses and organisations covered are selected by The List on the basis of their editorial merit and relevance. No entry in The Larder’s national and regional guides pays to be included, none is obliged to advertise and none is given sight of its coverage before publication. The Angus Larder is available in digital formal, accessible on all devices including tablets and smartphones, at list.co.uk/angus-larder Angus Larder 3

Contents

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What’s in the Angus Larder? 52 Great Foods from Angus, and plenty more besides

Meat and More

Profiles of local foods from page 6

Where to Eat

Food Festivals & Events

Find out about food and drink events across Angus on pages 44-45

Listings of cafés, takeaways and restaurants promoting local food begin on page 38 4 Angus Larder

Very Berry

Find all sorts of local fruits showcased in our list of 52 Great Foods from Angus, starting from page 9

Contents

Gin Things

Learn a bit about different spirits made in Angus on pages 15, 18 and 20

Local Dishes

Dotted around the selection of 52 Great Foods from Angus are favourite dishes from local food champions. From page 7.

Where to Buy

Find the best shops and outlets to pick up local food, from page 32.

Sweet Treats

Chocolate and other confectionary are among the array of favourite local foods. See entries from page 11.

Cocktails

Drink the landscape too. See page 23.

Introduction

52 Great Foods from Angus

Map

Where to Buy

Where to Eat

Farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Markets & Food Festivals

Index

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52 Great Foods from Angus

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ABERDEEN ANGUS BEEF How the ‘doddies’ of Angus took over the world beef market, by Maud Sampson

he Aberdeen Angus breed of cattle traces its origins to three dedicated and innovative Scottish farmers in the 19th century. In 1808 tenant farmer Hugh Watson took on Keillor farm, not far from Dundee, and began sourcing and breeding pure breed ‘doddies’: black and polled cattle native to the north east of Scotland. In 1824 William McCombie took over Tillyfour farm in Aberdeenshire and used the bloodline of the Keillor cattle to establish a pure-bred herd. From 1861 Sir George Macpherson-Grant took up the refining of the breed, now named for the two counties of its origin, which he continued to do on Speyside for the next 50 years. Aberdeen Angus beef has an enduring appeal. The hardy but gentle nature of the animals ensures they are relatively easy to keep, and their excellent conversion of grass to meat makes certain a delicious combination of red flesh marbled with succulent fat. In 2006 the fast food giant McDonalds began blind testing Aberdeen Angus 6 Angus Larder

burgers across the US. They found the customer response so positive they created ‘The Angus’ burger, still on the menu today, further widening the breed’s immense influence on the beef market and exposing it to a whole new consumer market. Today there are Aberdeen Angus beef societies dedicated to representing and protecting the breed in countries as far away as Australia, America, New Zealand, Uruguay and Canada. While cross-breeding is a reality in much of cattle-rearing, in theory every Aberdeen Angus steak can trace its origins back to the north east of Scotland. For those really looking for a beefkick, an Aberdeen Angus Trail was recently established, mapping a route through Angus and Aberdeenshire that takes you past some local landmarks to family-run businesses where you can sample the delicious meat. Find local butchers in listings from page 32

52 Great Foods from Angus

ASPARAGUS The crowning glory of the local vegetable crop

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nce-exotic asparagus is now shipped year-round into the UK from climates far removed from northeast Scotland: the reclaimed Peruvian desert, typically, or the reliable warmth of New Zealand. It was Sandy Pattullo’s Kiwi farming cousins who inspired him to plant it in the suitably sandy soils of Eassie Farm by Glamis 30 years ago, and in spite of unreliable weather, Angus has cultivated a loyal market for this delicate crop which is harvested in late spring and early summer. The Pattullos have built up ten acres of asparagus crowns over three decades, while at Charleton Farm near Montrose it has been grown for over ten years, with other local farms also now producing a crop. As well as the obvious difference in food miles, both growers say the primary benefit of buying local asparagus is the freshness. ‘It’s definitely better cut and eaten straight away,’ says Karin McQuisten of Charleton. ‘We keep it in water once it’s picked, but after even a day or two it tastes different.’ The deterioration that all vegetables begin once picked is particularly noticeable with asparagus, agrees Pattullo. ‘Freshness adds to the sweetness. There’s no substitute for getting it as near to cutting as possible.’ (Hannah Ewan)

Scotch Lamb with Bouvrage marinade A local dish by Anne Thomson of Ella Drinks

‘T

his dish has been a family favourite for many years,’ explains Anne Thomson of Ella Drinks, fruit growers and juice makers based near Brechin. ‘It came about from sharing recipes and ideas with the other sellers and livestock owners at farmers’ markets. Perthshire’s Highland Drovers sell native breed lamb reared in the Grampian Hills, which we marinade overnight in our Bouvrage raspberry drink, mixed with balsamic vinegar, garlic, cloves and cumin. The marinade also works well with pork or venison. Bouvrage is proving a versatile ingredient in cooking and drink-making as it has a pure, sharp raspberry taste.’

BARRY BANNOCKS An oatcake with (local) history

M Bakery in Carnoustie, known locally as ‘The JM’, is well known in the town and beyond (with branches in Monifieth and Arbroath) and as well as traditional sausage rolls, pies and sandwiches, one of their specialities is the Barry Bannock. This handmade oatcake, produced to a 50-year-old recipe, is named after nearby Barry Mill, a Category A-listed oat mill now owned and operated by the National Trust for Scotland as an educational tourist attraction. The rustic oatcakes are made with locally sourced ingredients, and have a crumbly short texture that makes them great with cheese, or just on their own. (Sarah Milne) Angus Larder 7

52 Great Foods from Angus

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BUTTER

Smokie and salmon parcel

Spreading the love, locally

A local dish by Gerry Mcmenemy of Dundee and Angus College

athering milk from farms within a ten-mile radius of their Forfar base, North Street Dairy is now in the hands of the fourth generation of the founding family, and is a rarity in still offering a doorstep delivery service in the surrounding areas. From the dairy, using cream from those grass-fed Friesian herds, the family make North Street Dairy Butter, both salted and unsalted. Ingredients are cream and salt if required, nothing else. The butter is handmade using traditional wooden butter paddles, giving the finished product its distinctive criss-cross finished pattern across its pale golden face. (Sarah Milne)

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his dish was created as a student project using locally sourced ingredients,’ explains Gerry Mcmenemy, chef-lecturer at Dundee and Angus College. ‘It turns the versatile Arbroath Smokie into a bistro-style dish, which is ever popular at our restaurant 56 in the Arbroath campus. A smokieinfused red pepper essence adds a hot shot to the plate and gives the dish a warming sensation. Asparagus is in abundance from May until late June at Eassie Farm near Glamis and we griddle it to add sweetness and colour.’

FORFAR BRIDIES The savoury snack that’s neither pie nor pasty

ome things about a Forfar Bridie are firm fact. Others are not. Real Forfar Bridies, as sold by the town’s two bakers, Saddler’s and McLarens, are made using shortcrust (or, less traditionally, flaky) pastry, with a filling of steak mince, secret seasonings and sometimes onions. As a helpful guide, bridies with one hole on top have onions, but two-holed bridies are onion-free. Both bakers have been involved in a recent application for protected food name status from the EU. However, things get a little murkier when you delve into the origins. One interpretation suggests the bridie was invented in the 1800s as part of a wedding meal (for the bride), with the iconic horseshoe shape signifying luck for married life ahead. The alternative says it was the original speciality of a baker called Margaret Bridie of Glamis, who sold them at market in Forfar to farm workers, the sturdy pastry casing keeping the filling from dirty hands. Rivalries are put aside, however, at Station Park, home of local football team Forfar Athletic. The current club mascot is Baxter the Bridie (baxter being an old Scots word for baker), and the hot snacks are, of course, served up to spectators at half-time. (Sarah Milne)

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52 Great Foods from Angus

APPLES The sweet yet humble fruit will Iive appley ever after in Angus, writes Louise Gray

otted across Angus are walled gardens built in the days of the British Empire when a family relied on a retinue of domestic servants to supply fruit and vegetables all year round. Nowadays the empire and the servants are long gone, but the apple trees remain. Many had been forgotten until recently when Anne Thomson stumbled into one orchard, like a character from the children’s book The Secret Garden, to find delicious apples ripe for the picking. As Managing Director of Ella Drinks, Anne saw an opportunity. The company now picks apples from 25 orchards around Angus for its Angus Apples juice range. The exciting thing for Thomson is how radically different each bottle tastes. Every batch is a unique combination of varieties grown in different orchards in varying conditions. ‘It has more of a tart flavour, too,’ she adds. Angus may be better known for soft fruits, and Ella Drinks also produces the Bouvrage brand, but now Thomson has planted 150 juicing apples such as Fiesta, Bramley and Golden Delicious, and they are thriving. Libby Adam of smaller Downiemill Farm planted 120 trees five years ago, and is already producing a mixture of heritage and commercial varieties for her Appley Ever After brand. She agrees that consumers increasingly like hand-

pressed apple juice that reflects the environment and weather. ‘It has a totally different flavour,’ she says. Around Angus, more than 350 trees have been planted in schools, old people’s homes and community orchards as part of the Angus Orchards Project. Heirloom varieties such as Hoods Supreme, Oslin and the Arbroath Pippin have been saved from possible

extinction. Although the orchards are too small to be commercial, children and community groups are making their own juice. It no longer takes an empire or domestic servants to get the best juice from Angus apples. See also Anne Thomson’s local dish on page 7 Angus Larder 9

52 Great Foods from Angus

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ARBROATH SMOKIES These hot smoked haddock are one of Scotland’s most distinctive regional specialities

he first Arbroath smokie was created when a fish store caught fire, destroying barrels of saltpreserved haddock. The following morning, the townsfolk found the fire had cooked the fish and that it tasted good. Or so the legend goes. The more likely story is that the traditional smoking method was handed down by generations of fishing families, many of whom had Scandinavian ancestors, and for whom preserving fish was a necessity to see them through the winter months. The Arbroath smokie was one of the first Scottish products to achieve PGI protected food status, which means that only haddock smoked using traditional methods within a five-mile radius of Arbroath can be called Arbroath smokies – a campaign spearheaded by fifth generation fish processors and master smokie makers RR Spink. The haddock (only haddock can be used) are salted then left overnight to dry. They are then hung over a special barrel or pit containing a hardwood fire. The top of the barrel is covered with a lid and sealed around 10 Angus Larder

the edges with wet sacks (often jute or hessian), helping create a very hot, humid and smoky fire. The intense heat and thick smoke is essential if the fish are to be cooked, not burned, and to help achieve the distinctively strong, smoky taste of an Arbroath smokie. The smoking time is usually around 30-40 minutes but this can vary due to the size of the fish, quality of wood and the weather conditions. An experienced smokie maker knows exactly when they are ready. Eating them hot and fresh out of the barrel is an amazing experience, and can be experienced at food fairs and farmers’ markets throughout the country, where Iain R Spink smokes the fish ‘live’ for hungry crowds to enjoy. Arbroath smokies can be bought from smokers in Arbroath, fishmongers around Angus, and online. (Sarah Milne) Iain Spink’s hot trout is featured on page 28

52 Great Foods from Angus

CHOCOLATE Cocoa treats from Angus chocolatiers

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he range of fine chocolates being made all round Scotland has been an impressive addition to the country’s thriving artisan food scene, and Angus is well represented in the sector. Carlotta’s Chocolates is run by Charlotte Benvie, who learned her craft under UK Chocolate Master Ruth Hinks. Carlotta’s dark chocolate bon bons, awarded a Great Taste Gold Star Award, are a perfect pairing with coffee, while the hand-rolled truffles are a real customer favourite. As well as her range of chocolate goodies, Charlotte also offers full or half-day chocolate making courses at her base in Brechin to anyone looking to learn the dark art of chocolate making. Over in Kirriemuir, Johanna Woodhead of 88 Degrees (named for the perfect temperature at which to serve an espresso) manages to perfectly combine the role of artisan chocolate maker and running what has become a landmark café. Her philosophy of keeping it natural and not contracting out what she can do herself has been a constant for the 13 years the business has been running. With a background in hospitality, Johanna and husband Phillip still do everything themselves, from design to chocolate production. (Sarah Milne)

Salmon with sea kale A local dish by Garry Watson of Gordon’s Restaurant

‘S

ea kale – also known as winter asparagus – is an unusual vegetable that chefs love,’ says Garry Watson, head chef at Gordon’s Restaurant in Inverkeilor. ‘Eassie Farm near Glamis is the only place in the UK that grows it. It tastes like a cross between celery and asparagus with a subtle nutty flavour and a slightly salty sweetness. After a brief boil or steam it can be matched with most seafood. It works great with oily fish: we serve it with lightly poached Scottish salmon with sauce maltaise (an orange-flavoured hollandaise), smoked mussels and pink grapefruit segments.’

OATS The East of Scotland’s cereal celebrity

he standard bearer for Angus oats is Aberfeldy Oatmeal, a business that retains the spirit of the Perthshire town’s watermill. After it ceased operation in 2000, production moved to the Scottish Borders, closer to where the majority of oats are grown in Scotland. It has continued there since Sandy Gray of Milton Haugh at Carmyllie, by Arbroath, bought the business in 2012. Grades from porridge oats to pinhead can be bought from farm shops and online. Angus institution JM Bakery uses them in Barry Bannocks, and the Grays produce their own oatcakes. (Hannah Ewan) Angus Larder 11

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SPRING WATER A journey from the source

ottled at its source at the Vale of Strathmore, less than ten miles from Forfar, Strathmore Water is drawn from an aquifer deep underground. A 50-year filtration process through natural sandstone purifies and enriches the mineral content of the spring water. It is sold still or sparkling, as well as in various versions flavoured with fruit combinations such as apple and raspberry. Acquired in 2006 for £15.5 million by Irn Bru makers, Cumbernauld-based AG Barr, the Strathmore brand is widely marketed at sports events and as part of a partnership with the youth charity Princes Trust. (Maud Sampson)

Asparagus, wild garlic and goat’s cheese frittata A local dish by Gillian Veal of Hospitalfield

‘I

am really looking forward to our new garden café opening every Wednesday from April 2017,’ says Gillian Veal, head chef at the cultural trust and arts organisation based at historic Hospitalfield House in Arbroath. ‘I’ll get to cook with lots of different produce that we grow here. I’ll be making an asparagus, wild garlic and goat’s cheese frittata – the asparagus is grown locally and is amazing, with many varieties being produced. The frittata is super versatile, and can be served hot or cold – perfect for eating in our garden.’

COFFEE Drip-feeding the speciality coffee scene

rother and sister Ian and Kathryn Baker and trained roaster Jamie Simpson set up Sacred Grounds Coffee Company in late 2015 in Arbroath, making them Angus’s sole roastery. ‘There was a huge gap in the north east, a real dearth,’ explains Kathryn, ‘even though the people of Angus are showing a real appreciation and understanding of coffee.’ Sacred Grounds is a founding member of The Food Life, an Angus collective of small-scale food businesses intent on promoting local produce, good living and social initiatives. ‘A big part of what we do and enjoy is collaborative,’ explains Baker. ‘Working with other local producers at events and festivals to showcase and enjoy what’s on our doorstep.’ There’s one more important member of the company – the 5kg Toper roaster. ‘She’s a big part of the team. People think she’s real because we call her Fatima,’ says Baker. Something of a celebrity on the Scottish coffee scene, Fatima is the very roaster that Simpson trained on about a decade ago at Artisan Roast in Glasgow. ‘She’s an iconic machine, one of the first speciality roasters in Scotland – so she kind of led the coffee revolution in this country.’ (Jay Thundercliffe)

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BEER Innovative flavours, healthy competition and a thriving community: Maud Sampson sees an exciting future for Angus craft beer

t the turn of the century Angus hadn’t seen an operational brewery for 50 years. These days, as part of a wave of craft brewing across the UK, the region has half a dozen engaged, enthusiastic brewers who are quickly establishing a local following. Based just beyond the outskirts of Dundee at Kellas, MòR Brewery currently brews six ales – three a week – with some fantastic names and interesting flavours. Tea, Vicar is a malty, fruity pale amber bitter whilst Bidly Dark! is a dark, chocolate, malty mild with a vanilla aftertaste. Kirrie Ales from Kirriemuir is firmly at the micro end of the micro-brewing scene, brewing from premises measuring just 8ft by 9ft. Lines include Red from the Shed, Fruity Wee Blonde and Thrums Best. Park Brew, based in Brechin, produces a range of beers inspired by some local history. Their flagship Townhead IPA is named in honour of three local brothers from Brechin who founded the North Port Distillery, while St Ninians, a crisp lager based on a Mexican cerveza recipe, takes its name from a square in the town dedicated to the Christian saint. Set up by Czech brewer Stephan Rychtar, Lion’s Lair brewery in Carmyllie by Arbroath opened at the end of 2015. Rychtar aims to use only local ingredients in brews

including Sonny Blonde, a smooth golden blonde ale lovingly named after his son, and Black Mamba, a cask-hopped dark IPA. The most recent arrivals on the scene are Shed 35, started (in, yes, a garden shed) by three former oil workers brewing Tomahawk IPA and Red Beard Irish ale, and

Arbroath’s Redcastle Brewery, producing Tower IPA, ruby beer Red Lady and the more exotic Gun Powder – a coconut, mango and chilli flavoured ale. Brewery details are in the listings from page 32 Angus Larder 13

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PHOTO: JILLIAN MCEWAN/FRESH FOOD EXPRESS

52 Great Foods from Angus

STRAWBERRIES Even at Wimbledon, it is agreed that the best soft fruit comes from Scotland

he strawberry season traditionally starts with Wimbledon in the first week of July. But times are changing. Strawberries are now eaten all year round, and the fruit served at Wimbledon is generally grown in Scotland rather than England. The Scottish industry provides a fifth of all berries eaten in the UK and has a reputation for quality. Some of the best fruit farmers are in Angus, where the temperate climate and long summer days provide excellent growing conditions. In the past the fertile soil also helped but nowadays most strawberries are grown on tables to make picking easier. Raspberries, too, are grown in coconut coir and compost in pots due to a UK-wide soil infection that rots the roots. Most of the fruit is grown under polytunnels or glass to minimise damage from rain and pests. In the past, the Scottish strawberry season lasted six to eight weeks between May and September. Now it 14 Angus Larder

stretches further round the calendar. The season starts under glass or in heated polytunnels in March and runs all the way through to November. John Gray, Technical Director at Angus Soft Fruits, insists that berries taste just as good outside of the traditional season. He argues that breeding has allowed growers to ensure berries are just as sweet grown early or late in the season. The development of biomass means it is cheaper to heat polytunnels and LED lights can boost production of sugars. ‘Of course fresh berries in season are wonderful,’ he explains, ‘especially if you can eat them locally. But we can now provide fruit that also tastes good out of season and with all the health benefits. And the demand is all year round.’ (Louise Gray) There’s more on raspberries on page 29

52 Great Foods from Angus

GIN Generations of farming, distilled

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hen the Stirling family set out to make gin, they wanted to distill their love for a very special place. The gin grains are grown on the family farm at Arbikie, north of Arbroath, the water is sourced from an underground lagoon and, most importantly, the botanicals used to flavour the alcohol are inspired by the natural environment. Where the distillery full of copper stills now sits used to be a cowshed at the centre of the busy farm, perched on the cliffs above the North Sea. The Stirling family has been farming at Arbikie for four generations and it was only natural to name the brand after the farm. One of the flavours, AK, made from wheat grown on the farm and flavoured with homegrown honey, black pepper mace and cardamon, is named after AK Stirling, the father of David, Iain and John, and of the brand. The first single-estate gin in Scotland, Kirsty’s Gin, is named after master distiller Kirsty Black. It is flavoured with kelp, carline thistle & blaeberry to represent the ocean, rock & land surrounding the farm. For Iain Stirling every flavour brings something of the family farm to life. ‘This place has all the ingredients required,’ he says. (Louise Gray)

Grilled haddock with bacon and kale A local dish by Hayley Wilkes of WeeCOOK Kitchen

wner of WeeCOOK, a chef services company, and resident chef at Angus farmers’ markets in Forfar, Hayley Wilkes has long championed produce from the region. In 2016 she set up the WeeCOOK Kitchen in Broughty Golf Club in Monifieth. ‘We use Arbroath Fisheries for all our seafood, including the fresh haddock for our fish and chips,’ says Wilkes. ‘There is much more to do with haddock than deep-fry it: we use it for more refined weekend specials, such as grilled haddock with caper nut butter, bacon from Puddledub Pork in Fife, kale from John Reid & Sons in Dundee and buttery herb mash.’

BLUEBERRIES Berries on the brain

esearch at The Rowett Institute for Nutrition and Health in Scotland has found that drinking a concentrated blueberry extract could contribute to the prevention and management of type 2 diabetes. Meanwhile, in the US, the University of Cincinatti found the fruit could help prevent Alzheimer’s Disease. The findings have encouraged the Scottish Government to fund new research at the James Hutton Institute near Dundee to develop plants tailored to the Scottish climate. (Louise Gray) Angus Larder 15

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HONEY

Chocolate with local ingredients

Hives of activity in the heather

Made by Johanna Woodhead of 88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium

mportant message: the bees need love. Ranald McBay of Honeyhill Bee Farm has 320 hives stationed by grateful farmers’ oil seed rape fields until July 1, when they’re trucked to the heather-covered hills until October. After a bruising year affected by disease, McBay is building hive numbers back up to 600, the better to fulfil demand for his unrefined honey. Alongside Scarlett’s Scotland, just over the Perthshire border, these bees are responsible for everything from Mackays jams (they pollinate the fruit) to Glen Esk’s rolling heather-red landscape to, McBay swears, curing hay fever. (Hannah Ewan)

ohanna Woodhead, owner of 88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium in Kirriemuir and maker of artisan chocolates, regularly raids her own Angus garden for ultra-local ingredients that go into her range of sweet treats. ‘We grow organic mint that goes in our minty Sao Thomé thins and we use our own raspberries, dried out, in our dairy-free chocolate bar,’ explains Woodhead. ‘We keep our own bees, and their honey is used in our hand-painted bee, filled with flower honey ganache.’

FORAGED FOOD The flavour of a wild harvest on your doorstep

iona Bird’s profession and passion sees her charging around Scotland on two missions: to get children cooking, and to encourage us to eat for free by raiding the landscape (responsibly). Splitting her time between Angus and South Uist, she is particularly interested in seaweeds, scouring the shores for a host of sea vegetables including laver, dulse and carrageen. She loves Angus for its varied land and seascapes. ‘The wild larder is vast and once a forager gets his or her eye in they will see wild ingredients everywhere,’ says Bird. ‘Start with brambles, and before you know it you’ll be adding sorrel (nature’s lemon) to your bramble and apple crumble.’ Fledgling foragers should also look out for sweet cicely from March to July, with recipes in Bird’s book The Forager’s Kitchen. ‘Bruise a leaf between finger and thumb and you will smell aniseed,’ she explains. This differentiates it from its toxic cousin hemlock, which also has a blotchy red stem! Bird stresses the importance of harvesting just enough for your own use and no more; never taking more than a sixth of what’s on offer; and not pulling out any roots. (Hannah Ewan)

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TEA Susi Munro Walker is tea royalty – though she has only just realised it, explains Louise Gray

he Angus farmer’s wife discovered she was the great great great granddaughter of Charles Alexander Bruce, who established the tea industry in India, only after setting up the first micro tea estate in Scotland herself. Munro Walker planted the first tea in Scotland in her walled garden in Kinnettles Farm after reading about tea farms in Cornwall in a magazine at the dentist. She realised that with its cool wet climate Scotland had similar tea growing conditions to Cornwall or even the Himalayas. She planted the world’s most northerly commercial tea garden in 2008. Through trial and error she worked out the kind of green manures the tea plants like, established pest control and polytunnels and learned how to pluck and roll the leaves herself. She is now harvesting 2kg by hand every year: a small quantity but a highly specialised product with a subtle apple flavour that lingers in the mouth. Just like cheese and wine, tea has a unique ‘terroir’ created by the soil and the conditions that influences the flavour. Pekoe Tea in Edinburgh, who sell the black tea Kinnettles Gold, are struggling to meet demand it is so popular. At Kinnettles they’re also raising tea plants from seed, bred from Nepalese and Georgian stock, to be more suited to the Scottish environment. The seedlings will

be sold to other enthusiastic tea growers across Angus. Munro Walker says that discovering tea is in her blood has been an inspiration. She hopes Scottish tea could become as well known as Assam. ‘My great great great grandfather managed to clear

forests with elephants to grow the best tea in the world, I think I can sort out a walled garden and a few weeds to grow some great tea.’ Prefer coffee? Find the local connection on page 12 Angus Larder 17

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VODKA

Like the proverbial bus, you wait a lifetime for a potato vodka and suddenly two turn up

ack in 2014, the arrival of two premium potato vodkas, one from Ogilvy Spirits based near Glamis, and the other from Arbikie Highland Estate near Inverkeilor, put Angus firmly on the Scottish spirits map. Both distilleries are farm-to-bottle operations, using their own crops, and distilling and bottling on site. ‘We are expanding production just now,’ says Caroline Bruce-Jarron, who runs Ogilvy Spirits with husband Graeme Jarron, ‘but we’re still only using the potatoes not sold as food. We plan on using all our crop eventually — so we’ve plenty of room for growth.’ Since launch, Arbikie have added two gins and two vodka variations to their range. Their chilli version uses peppers from Chillilicious in Fife, while a strawberry variety uses Arbikie’s wheat for the spirit instead of potatoes. Fresh berries from a neighbouring farm are used, which give each season’s bottling a distinct flavour as crops vary in taste. Ogilvy, while not moving into the busy gin scene,

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recently launched their Perfect Pour range featuring their own potato vodka. Bottled at 20%ABV, these pre-mixed cocktails include apple and elderflower and raspberry and lime, topped up with your own mixer. ‘We source local, natural fruit juices, such as raspberry for our Milton Mule version,’ explains Bruce-Jarron. ‘And we’ll also be adding seasonal specials to the range in future.’ Given Scotland’s propensity for growing potatoes, it was only a matter of time before they were used for something other than tatties or chips. That both spirits come from Angus farms says as much about the region’s spud-friendly climate as the ability of the county’s farmers to diversify. And with considerable success – both have regularly won awards and plaudits since together they created a new category of Scottish spirit. (Jay Thundercliffe) Read about Arbikie’s gin on page 15

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GOATS The new kids on the meat scene

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he Boer is the only goat bred specifically for meat, as goats traditionally are a by-product of the milk and fibre industries. ‘The demand for goat meat is there,’ confirms Geof Burnett-Smith of Terraweena UK goat stud near Letham Grange, north of Arbroath. ‘We just need more breeders.’ One local farmer wants to exchange his entire sheep flock for 1500 goats, ‘as fast as I can get them to him’, says Burnett-Smith. Commercially, goats are productive. They wean more twins, can be brought to market more quickly and fetch a better price. ‘There is huge interest, not just from communities who traditionally eat goat meat but from those concerned with healthy eating and provenance.’ Goat is the leanest red meat, with low cholesterol levels, and suits the ‘low and slow’ cooking of curries and stews. At Newton of Fotheringham Farm by Inverarity, Louise Nicoll recently bought a breeding herd of 15 Boers. The first meat sold in 2016, so quickly they didn’t get to keep any themselves. Like the Burnett-Smiths, she sells directly and through Fresh Food Express, saying: ‘We’re keen to keep to the local market, we see this very much as an Angus product.’ (Hannah Ewan)

Coffee rub for barbecued meats A local dish by food blogger Kelly Bramill

sing coffee as a rub ‘helps emphasise the incredible flavour of quality beef,’ says Kelly Bramill, an Angus-based food blogger specialising in BBQ and smoking. ‘Arbroath’s Sacred Grounds Coffee Company are producing some of the best coffee I’ve tasted. When mixed with salt and pepper and massaged into steak, ribs or a joint, the rub adds a deep smokey and nutty profile to the meats. It also works well with pork and venison.’ Bramill sources meats from Watt the Butcher in Forfar, who get much of their beef from nearby Craignathro Farm.

ICE CREAM PHOTO: ANGUS COUNCIL

Classic Italian ice-cream in Kirriemuir

isocchi’s café in Kirriemuir is a local landmark famed for its homemade ice-cream, as well as fresh-egg pastas and dark, strong coffee. Run by the Visocchi family – a scion of those running Visocchi’s ice-cream café in Broughty Ferry – for 78 years until 2009, when local brothers Paul and Scott James took it on, the ice-cream is made on site from a recipe brought over from Italy in the 1930s. The myriad range of dozens of flavours includes a Peter Pan special of pineapple and marshmallows, in honour of local hero JM Barrie. (Maud Sampson) Angus Larder 19

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VENISON

Rabbie’s mussels

Red meat from the Angus Glens

A local dish by Rosie Farquhar of the Pavilion Café

enison has seen a resurgence in recent years, and butchers and restaurants in Angus source wild red deer or roe deer straight from local estates. Bruce Brymer Butchers in Brechin pick up whole deer from Glenesk, one of the Dalhousie Estates. Highland Game, based in Dundee, takes deer from all over Angus and processes the meat into burgers, sausages and steaks. With wild deer the taste and supply vary with the season. Stags killed early in the summer are fatter. By the end of the October rutting season the male deer have a more acquired taste, while hinds can be eaten over the winter and have a milder flavour. (Louise Gray)

osie Farquhar, who runs the Pavilion Café in Melville Gardens in Montrose, regularly utilises the wealth of local produce from Angus and the surrounding area. ‘In our café we’ll sometimes put on a special called Rabbie’s mussels – mixing the shellfish with ale, shallots, garlic, fennel, rapeseed oil and plenty of herbs,’ explains Farquhar. ‘Our mussels are supplied by Gourline in Gourdon just a little way north in Aberdeenshire, while the ale we use is from Redcastle Brewery, which began brewing last year on a farm in Carmyllie near Arbroath.’

INFUSED GIN A gin for all seasons

he Gin Bothy at Peel Farm in Lintrathen has tapped into the gin renaissance while concocting a range of infused gins that harmonise with the Angus seasons. ‘We get 96 per cent of our fruit within 25 miles of here – that’s the joy of freezing,’ explains Kim Cameron, the Gin Bothy’s distiller and master of infusions. ‘We freeze fruit in huge amounts to ensure each batch has consistency in taste and the same alcohol content, as different water content in fruit affects the final ABV.’ Some infusions are more at the mercy of the seasons than others. ‘Strawberry we do in June and July, Blueberry in September. We grow chillies, which are ready around October,’ explains Cameron. ‘Our Raspberry and Rhubarb versions we can do year-round thanks to polytunnels.’ After initially buying in base spirit, the Gin Bothy now produces its own full-strength gin. And despite its success, it remains as artisan as the name suggests. ‘It’s all done by hand,’ Cameron affirms. ‘The fruit syrups for the infusions I make in big pots over the hob. We did around 30,000 bottles last year – so that’s a fair bit of stirring.’ (Jay Thundercliffe) 20 Angus Larder

52 Great Foods from Angus

PIES Bel’s Butchers bring healthy, homemade food from farm to table, explains Louise Gray

reams don’t always come true the way you would imagine. Annabel Forbes always wanted to open a cake shop, but has ended up running butchers shops selling pies. She wouldn’t want it any other way. Bel’s Butchers in Edzell and Montrose are thriving businesses that not only supply nutritious food to the local community but connect consumers to the farmer. Annabel, known as Bel, always makes sure to use farmers treating animals well and can tell any customer exactly where the meat comes from. The fastest-growing seller in the shops is pies, as people look to ready-made meals to fit into their busy lives. Bel has expanded the range to include chicken and leek, mince and skirlie and chicken curry, as well as the favourite steak and gravy or macaroni pies. Every month there is a speciality, such as Mad March Pie with bangers and mash or Christmas pie with chipolatas and cranberry. But Bel’s favourite is the traditional Scotch Pie. She explains that every butchery makes it differently, but the best way is with short pastry, a mixture of beef and lamb and plenty of spice. She admits to using lots of white pepper instead of black to give the pies plenty of heat, but refuses to divulge the recipe. It’s easy to see, though, that there is no filler, little fat and the filling goes right to the top. Bel’s Butchers also sell healthy,

ready-made meals such as mince and tatties or macaroni cheese. Although she is passionate about encouraging people to buy cuts of meat to cook at home, Bel also recognises how hard it can be to feed a family. ‘I may not know all there is to know about

cutting up meat, but I know how to cook it,’ she says. ‘People come into the butchers to be inspired.’ Other butchers selling pies are listed from page 32 Angus Larder 21

52 Great Foods from Angus

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GROUSE Wild food is winging its way from hill to plate, writes Louise Gray

he Angus glens in full bloom hum with life. Bees buzz over the heather, mountain hares lollop to cover and the grouse rise in a covey shouting their famous call, ‘Get back! Get back!’ It is one of the most beautiful and well known scenes in Scotland, yet it is not entirely natural. The moors, with their mosaic of purple and green, look like this because they are managed for the grouse. More than 20 estates in Angus harvest grouse over the season that runs from the Glorious 12th on 12 August to early December. The birds are notorious for their fast, jinking flight, and keen shots come from around the world to shoot a brace. Thousands of grouse are then delivered into the food chain via local restaurants, game dealers and butchers. It is this journey ‘from hill to plate’ that members of the Angus Glens Moorland Group want to celebrate. Lianne MacLennan, wife of the Head Keeper at Invermark, explains how the regular burning of heather 22 Angus Larder

to provide fresh shoots and the legal control of predators not only encourages grouse but also birds such as curlew, lapwing and golden plover. Primary school children have visited Glenprosen Estate to see the birdlife and learn how the grouse are harvested. Members of the public are invited to go on wildlife tours and see for themselves the multiple benefits of managing the land for grouse, including wildlife, the boost to tourism from shooting, the employment opportunities for those working on the estates and the community created in remote areas. MacLennan also points out that it is makes a delicious meal. ‘People are afraid to try grouse but once they have tried it cooked properly – simply roasted and pink in the middle – and realise how easy it is to cook, their opinion changes.’ Try Sinclair’s Larder in Edzell for game dishes

52 Great Foods from Angus

JAM A copper bottomed local favourite

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his is not only the scene at the Mackays factory near Arbroath – the only major jam manufacturer to still use all copper pans – but in small kitchens across Angus. Whether a cottage industry or a major player, when it comes to jam, traditional methods still prevail. Rochelle Grant, Marketing Manager at Mackays, says copper pans are best because the metal conducts heat well, meaning the jam can easily be brought to a rolling boil and therefore set better. ‘It’s how jam has always been made and what gives the best flavour,’ she says. Mackays have also kept the same recipes for their favourite jams and use local ingredients wherever they can, especially the famous Angus soft fruits. However, there are also some more exotic recipes livening up the range, such as blueberry and pomegranate preserves and banana curd. Their Mrs Bridges range in particular mixes flavours including ginger malt whisky in preserves, or strawberry and champagne. The smaller players in the area can compete in unusual flavours such as the strawberry and pink champagne made by Isabella’s Preserves, based in Edzell, and Norma’s Homemade Preserves, available at local farmers’ markets. (Louise Gray)

Chin Chilli Cocktail A local drink by Samantha Lockhart-Mure and Colin Fleming of Tipple in a Tuk Tuk

‘T

here isn’t much space in a Tuk Tuk so we’re focusing on gin and prosecco,’ says Samantha Lockhart-Mure who, along with Colin Fleming, runs Tipple in a Tuk Tuk, a (slowly) roving mobile bar popping up at events, dishing out fizz and locally inspired cocktails. ‘Our Chin Chilli Cocktail came about as a collaboration with the Gin Bothy. We use their Chilli Gin, with Hint o’ Mint Lemonade from Aberdeenshire’s Summerhouse Drinks, and Angus raspberries.’

MARSHMALLOWS Mmmmmm, marshmallows

arshmallows are making a comeback thanks to Angus’s answer to Willy Wonka. White Rose Confectionary in Arbroath is making strawberry and bramble mallows out of local Scottish berries, alongside other tempting flavours such as butterscotch with white chocolate, and rose. Conventional pink and white marshmallows can be a little bland and boring. But homemade marshmallows are fluffy and sweet with a satisfying bite, and these colourful treats have been going down a storm in farmers’ markets, farm shops and local delicatessens. (Louise Gray) Angus Larder 23

52 Great Foods from Angus

PHOTO: ANGUS COUNCIL

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WHISKY

Roast venison loin with butter bean casserole

From dereliction to a fine single malt

ngus’s sole distillery, Glencadam in Brechin, was rescued from mothballs by Angus Dundee Distillers in 2003, who soon began production of their well-regarded single malt. Originating in 1875, closed by Allied Domeq in 2000, the distillery is one of the oldest in the country that still uses the original building to produce a range of expressions of their single malt. Versions include ten, 15 and 21 years, plus editions finished in sherry and bourbon casks, as well as rare single cask editions between 25 and 35 years old. All Glencadam whiskies are bottled at 46%, unchill-filtered and have no added colourings. (Jay Thundercliffe)

A local dish by Eden Sinclair

t Sinclair’s, we pride ourselves on using the finest local produce,’ says Eden Sinclair, chefproprietor of the stylish café-bistro Sinclair’s Larder and associated catering company in Edzell – a new venture for the chef. ‘We use local estates such as Invermark to source our game, and our local vegetable supplier, Paul Hodge-Neil at Nature’s Delight walled garden, works exclusively for us. It is hugely important for us to use local producers – we believe that food from Angus is the best there is.’

HONEYBERRIES A newcomer to Scotland, the honeyberry looks set for success

ts name in Japanese translates as ‘little present at the end of the branch’, and the honeyberry could certainly be a present to Angus. These elongated blue berries are currently grown in Japan and North America, where they are a popular fruit. Some say they taste like a cross between a raspberry, blueberry and blackberry. Others insist they are more like elderflower. Yet others maintain they have a flavour all their own. One thing is for sure: honeyberries are good for you, with plenty of antioxidants, more vitamin C than an orange and more potassium than a banana. And the seedless fruits, blue all the way through, make colourful juices, ice-creams, sauces and even gin. Stewart Arbuckle planted Scotland’s first orchard of honeyberries on his family’s Star Inn Farm in Invergowrie in 2016 after realising the berries would grow well in the cool climate under polytunnels. He is now growing plants to sell to gardeners. And he was confident the trend for healthy eating and demand for exotic foods would mean the berry would sell. ‘I was looking for the next exciting berry!’ he says. (Louise Gray)

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52 Great Foods from Angus

POTATOES Red, white and Blue spuds from Scotland

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ngus, along with neighbouring regions Perthshire, Aberdeenshire and Fife, is at the heart of Scotland’s best potato-growing area. The Scottish climate is ideal for seed potatoes as the cool temperatures and wind patterns make it more difficult for pests and diseases to take hold. Worldwide there are 4000 varieties of potatoes available, most of which are grown in South America. But there are also hundreds grown in the UK and, as popular demand for heirloom vegetables and exciting new varieties picks up, Angus has contributions to make. The striking Edzell Blue, with its vibrant purple skin, was developed at Edzell Castle in 1915. It is white in the centre and makes a fantastic mash. Golden Wonder, with its russet brown skin and white flesh, was developed in Arbroath in 1906. It is one of the driest of all potatoes and therefore makes excellent chips – although the well-known crisps of the same name no longer use the variety. Skea Organics at Auchterhouse is seeing orders for their seed potatoes increase as gardeners, chefs and retailers want to try different varieties. As well as Edzell Blue and Golden Wonder, Skea is growing Arran Victory, Highland Burgundy Red, Salad Blue and Shetland Black. (Louise Gray)

Arbroath hot smoked salmon and pea purée A local dish by Jillian McEwan of Fresh Food Express

‘I

n Angus, we have a rare combination of culinary heritage and modern food and drink innovation,’ explains Jillian McEwan, who runs Fresh Food Express, an online food retailer sourcing directly from over 200 small-scale Scottish producers. ‘Our dish highlights Angus’s exceptional natural larder, mainly due to our unique land and sea environment and the fishing and farming communities that are guardians of it. The salmon is from E&O Fish in Arbroath, nearby Milton Haugh Farm provides the potatoes, while the peas are from Charleton Farm at Montrose.’

BLACKBERRIES Tall, dark and handsome

he climate in Angus isn’t comparable to that of New Zealand, but Kate Porter of East Scryne Farm still manages to make a success of her Karaka Black blackberries, half a world away from their point of origin. ‘They’re big berries, very long and narrow,’ she says, ‘and they have no husks, so you can put the whole thing in your mouth. They’re very popular and very different – tart but sweet at the same time, but it’s the texture which sets them apart: they have a lovely consistency.’ She supplies to supermarkets and sells them in her own farm shop, where customers can also sample Karaka jam and ice cream. (David Pollock) Angus Larder 25

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STAR ROCK

TURKEY

A favourite sweetie with a long history

Keeping the Christmas centrepiece local

ucked into a narrow back street in the heart of Kirriemuir, the Star Rock Shop was established in 1833 by Brechin man David Fergusson as a way of making money after he lost his sight. These days the shop sells all sorts of sweeties and confectionary both new and old. What it’s named for, however, is a very particular old-fashioned hard boiling still made in the shop. Lemon flavoured, golden-hued and faintly stripey, the sweet is called Star Rock for the star patterns that appear when the long, thin strands are cut or broken. It’s sold in bunches of half a dozen fingers in simple, paper-wrapped packages. (Donald Reid)

he Pate family have been farming on the hills above Dundee at South Powrie Farm – right on the southern boundary of Angus – for four generations. While predominantly arable, in recent years they have made a business from rearing turkeys for the local market at Christmas. They specialise in the KellyBronze breed, raising them outdoors to full maturity and then ensuring they’re hung for up to 14 days to maximise on taste. Pre-ordering is essential, and the turkeys are collected from their farm shed just before Christmas, when they’ve also got some festive trimmings and locally farmed vegetables on sale. (Donald Reid)

HOT SMOKED TROUT A fishy treat that proves there’s more than a smokie you can cook over a barrel

f there’s a market or festival happening in the Northeast of Scotland and you get a whiff of smoke – smokie smoke from a beech and oak wood fire – you know you’re in luck. Iain Spink, a fifth generation maker of Arbroath smokies and author of The Arbroath Smokie Bible, has been instrumental in raising the profile of the traditional delicacy with his compelling smoking roadshow which sees him cooking fish in the time-honoured manner laid over a hardwood fire in wooden barrels and draped in swaths of hessian sacking. While it’s haddock you need to make Arbroath smokies, Spink also brings along a box or two of trout and cooks them in the same way – and as the snaking queues of folk get to his stall to buy their fish, still warm, wrapped in greaseproof paper, there are plenty who ask specifically for the moister, richer pink flesh of the trout imbued with that intense, fresh smoke flavour. It may not have the heritage, or the fame, but freshly smoked hot trout has the taste to rank right alongside the smokie as among the very finest street food to be found in Scotland. (Donald Reid)

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PORK A simple nose to tail food chain

hen long-standing Arbroath butcher Flemings was sold in 2014 after a nearly 90-year history under family ownership, it was bought by new proprietors with a keen understanding of what it is to be in the Angus meat trade. Father and son team Mark and Guthrie Batchelor have been farming pigs on the east coast since 1990, and a lowering in supermarket demand inspired their move into operating a local outlet. Their pigs are Durocs – a hardy breed with a winter coat which they shed in the summer – crossed with the popular Large White. The Batchelor’s farm maintains a strong focus on animal welfare, so their pigs are free to roam and grow. They are then bedded down on straw and fed barley which is all naturally grown on the farm. The SSPCA regularly visit and Quality Meat Scotland have given their seal of approval, meaning the quality of Fleming’s pork products is up there with that of their locally renowned steak and gravy pie. The Batchelors also supply Hamish’s Hogs, a local travelling hog roast business which caters to local festivals and food shows, as well as events such as the recent Seniors Golf Open at Carnoustie. (David Pollock)

EGGS Bring on the egg dispenser

he risk of the honesty box at the end of the lane could be over. For John Watson, farmer at Tillygloom Farm near Brechin, the solution is The Egg Box: an automated vending machine that dispenses eggs from his brood of 4000 free-range hens. Made in Germany and bought from a company near Blairgowrie, the machine can also be filled with potatoes, jam or seasonal fruit like strawberries. Another local pioneer is Grewar’s Farm Shop, with three machines around Angus and Tayside, including their base at Dronley Farm, and two in Dundee and Perth. (David Pollock)

PICK-YOUR-OWN RASPBERRIES PHOTO: STEPHEN ROBINSON

Where berry picking is more treat than chore

oft fruit is an important agricultural crop in Angus, as the many acres of polytunnel testify, and the soil and climate of Northeast Scotland has long been acknowledged as offering excellent growing conditions for raspberries, strawberries and, now, cherries, blackberries and blueberries. Still, there are surprisingly few places to get into the field (or polytunnel) and pick your own, long-held as a classic family outing. One place you can still do it is Charleton Fruit Farm, just north of Montrose, where seasonal PYO is available alongside a children’s adventure playground, coffee shop and farm shop. (Donald Reid) Angus Larder 29

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SAUSAGES Traditional butchers who can still provide a bit of bang for your banger buck

utcher James Pirie and Sons has been a fixture in the village of Newtyle since 1960, and the man who gave it his name was once the oldest working butcher in Britain: still going strong at the age of 87. His son Alan now runs the business and, although the base recipe dates back to the store’s opening, his sausages have changed with the times. ‘Pork and Dundee marmalade is a very popular one,’ he says, outlining some of the nearly 40 sausage recipes he and his staff have developed (around half a dozen are on sale at any one time) over the

years. ‘Sweet chilli and Irn-Bru is another, also pork, mustard and ginger, then there’s pork, caramelised red onion and sage.’ Across its more traditional lines, the business has won 176 awards in total, including Scottish trade awards for best beef and pork sausages, and best haggis. ‘We like to try out new innovations as we go,’ says Alan, who sources all of his pork and beef from local farms. ‘Our younger customers like the hot and spicy sausages, which goes to show how eating habits have changed over the years.’ (David Pollock)

Companies highlighted in bold are listed in the Where to Buy and Where to Eat sections that follow on pages 32 to 43. Further information on outlets and producer can be found online at food.list.co.uk, where information including opening hours, individual locator maps and links to home websites and social media can be found.

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52 Great Foods from Angus

SEA KALE The lesser-known sea kale is as much of a seasonal treat as asparagus

ea kale is a brassica grown commercially by one Scottish grower, Sandy Pattullo at Eassie Farm in Angus, better known for his asparagus crop. Like forced rhubarb, the sea kale plants are grown in a dark, heated room in late winter, from January to March, so that early, tender shoots are forced upwards searching for light. These pale shoots are then harvested and sent to chefs around the UK who seek out its unique nutty flavour. Sea kale used to be quite common, traditionally grown by fishermen’s wives, who buried the plant as it grew so shoots were forced to come up to the light. In the 19th century it was grown in the same way in walled garden pits. It then went out of fashion as more exotic vegetables became widely available during the winter months. But as the tide turns back towards seasonal, home-grown vegetables, Sandy Patullo says its popularity is returning. ‘People are becoming more selective in their tastes and they appreciate a special, local flavour,’ he says. He began growing sea kale in the 1980s, and he expects demand to continue to grow. (Louise Gray)

CHERRIES Ripe for the picking

tarted in 2012 as an experiment in growing, Stead Nicolle’s small-scale cherry-farming business has continued searching for the holy grail: a consistent product for sale locally. Based at Rosehill Farm by Inverkeilor, he uses a method developed in Washington, USA. Grown under cover, his cherries benefit from high light levels in the summer and the farm’s proximity to the sea, which cuts down on frost levels. Sold through Fresh Food Express, the size of the cherry depends on the variety, but he notices a firmer texture and says the freshness of just-picked cherries is hard to beat. (David Pollock)

Marmalade

Bittersweet: a citrus marriage

arried duo Sarah and Sandy Gray of Aberfeldy Oatmeal inherited their 40-year-old recipe for marmalade from a company they took over in 2001. Its attraction, says Sandy, is the particular bitterness of the Seville oranges coupled with enough sugar to offer a very balanced flavour. Under Sarah Gray’s name, they produce a marmalade infused with an eight-year-old malt whisky, offering a subtle flavour, and a new three-fruit marmalade: extremely refreshing. They have since moved into an extensive range of popular jams as well. (David Pollock) Angus Larder 31

Where to Buy

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WHERE TO BUY

JM Bakery

In addition to the shops listed below, Angus produce can be found at local farmers’ markets (see p.44–45) or obtained directly from producers featured elsewhere in the guide. Entries are grouped into four geographical areas running roughly north to south in Angus. Within each area entries are sorted alphabetically.

MONTROSE, BRECHIN & AROUND A Portuguesa

32 Angus Larder

CHOCOLATIER

Wardhill, Brechin DD9 7PE | 01356 626768, niallbenvie.com/carlottas-chocolates

Handmade chocolates and cake-pops sold online, plus workshops and courses on the making of both.

Charleton Fruit Farm FRUIT FARM AND CAFÉ

Hillside, Montrose DD10 9EW | 01674 830226, charleton-farm.co.uk

Farm-based café, gift and produce shop, children’s play zone and seasonal pick-your-own fruit operation.

Ella Drinks Ltd

17 St David Street, Brechin DD9 6EG | 07936 125392

JUICE MAKER

J Barclay Butcher

For extended writeups of venues, with individual location maps, opening details and links, go to food.list.co.uk Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, food.list.co.uk features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

Carlotta’s Chocolates

GROCERY AND DELI

Specialist grocery and deli supplying Portuguese food and drink, including prepared dishes, cheeses and wines.

ONLINE LISTINGS

meat with a speciality in dry cured gammon and bacon.

Wandershiell, Aldbar, Brechin DD9 6SY | 01356 623115, bouvrage.com

Producers of Bouvrage raspberry juice, Angus Apples juice and Berried diluted fruit drinks.

HIGH STREET BUTCHER

Glencadam Distillery

90 High Street, Montrose DD10 8JE | 01674 672429

WHISKY DISTILLERY

Traditional butchers with locally sourced meat, as well as homemade steak pies and their own-recipe haggis.

Bel’s Butchers BUTCHER

Angus Dundee Distillers PLC, Brechin DD9 7PA | 01356 622217, glencadamdistillery.co.uk

Angus’s only distillery, using water from the North Esk and producing 15, 12 and 10-year-old single malts.

• 25A High Street, Edzell DD9 7TE | 01356 648409 • 39-41 Murray Street, Montrose DD10 8LH | 01674 672 777, belsbutchers.co.uk

Gourmet Grocery Ltd

Bruce Brymer Family Butcher

Honeyhill Bee Farm

BUTCHER

St Cyrus, Montrose DD10 0LG | 01674 850282, honeyhillbeefarm.com

Butcher specialising in homemade pies, pâtés, meats and healthy ready meals.

9 St David Street, Brechin DD9 6EG | 01356 624645, brucebrymerbutcher.co.uk

Family butchers selling locally sourced

GROCERY AND DELI

29 St David Street, Brechin DD9 6EG | 01356 622307, gourmetgrocery.co.uk

Grocery shop, trading since 1931, supplying goods from meats, cheese and whisky to fruit and veg, local beer and ground-to-order coffee. BEEKEEPERS AND BEE FARMERS

Beekeepers and producers of unrefined local clover, blossom and heather honeys.

Where to Buy

Isabella’s Preserves JAM AND RELISH MAKER

The Galley Kitchen, Edzell Base DD9 7XH | 01356 648500, isabellaspreserves.co.uk

A regular at festivals and markets, with a web-ordering service, Louise Myles makes award-winning jams, marmalades, chutneys and relishes.

Nature’s Garden GREENGROCER

38-40 Murray Street, Montrose DD10 8LB | 01674 671060

Shop selling local fruit and veg, eggs and bread and delivering veg boxes. Only local stockist of Burdall’s gravy salt.

Norma’s Homemade JAM AND PRESERVE MAKER

Cairndrum Lodge, Chapleton of Menmuir, By Brechin DD9 7QN | 01356 648144

Selling at the Forfar famers’ market, Norma Mitchell makes jams and marmalades at home using local fruits.

Park Brew MICRO-BREWERY

The Shed, Park View, Brechin DD9 7AT | 07905 998740, parkbrew.com

Two brewers making a range of craft beers sold locally and further afield.

Tillygloom Farm FARM STALL

by Brechin DD9 7PE

Egg supplier to many local businesses, with an unmanned farm shop including a vending machine.

FORFAR, KIRRIEMUIR & THE GLENS Bertram’s Quality Butchers BUTCHER

13 Bank Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4BE | 01575 572116, bertramsbutchers.co.uk

Butcher stocking locally sourced meat

and game, producing a wide range of sausages, burgers and steak pies as well as haggis and cured meats.

Where to Eat listings start on page 38

Eassie Farm ASPARAGUS GROWER

by Glamis DD8 1SG | 01307 840303, eassiefarm.co.uk

Sandy and Heather Pattullo are longestablished growers of asparagus and sea kale, with a simple farm shop open in the season.

Ewarts of Tayside BUTCHER

10-12 Castle Street, Forfar DD8 3AD | 01307 462118, ewartsbutchers.co.uk

Alan Kennedy’s group of high-street butchers carries Q Guild accreditation and presents an impressive selection of fresh, locally sourced beef, lamb, pork and game. Branches in Monifieth, Carnoustie, Alyth and Blairgowrie.

Gin Bothy INFUSED GIN PRODUCER

Peel Farm, Lintrathen, Kirriemuir DD8 5JJ | 01575 560718, ginbothy.co.uk

Small-batch infused gin maker using macerated local fruit and other ingredients.

IC Fruit Company FRUIT AND VEGETABLE STREET TRADER

11 Church Street, Newtyle PH12 8TY | 07599 500222

Market trader selling local fruit and vegetables in various Angus towns.

James McLaren and Son BAKERY

• 22/26 Market Street, Forfar DD8 3EW | 01307 463315 • 8 The Cross, Forfar DD8 1BX | 01307 462762 • 9 High Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4EY | 01575 572964, mclarenbakers.co.uk

Long-established baker specialising in Forfar bridies, using only steak according to an old family recipe.

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Where to Buy

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James Pirie & Son

North Street Dairy

BUTCHER

DAIRY

39 Church Street, Newtyle PH12 8TZ | 01828 650301, pirieandson.co.uk

22 North Street, Forfar DD8 3BJ | 01307 463796, northstreetdairy.co.uk

Family-owned butcher’s famous for sausage and haggis. Bacon dry-cured on site.

Keptie Bakery Eassie Farm

BAKER AND CONFECTIONER

Ogilvy Spirits

16 The Square, Letham DD8 2PZ | 01307 818936, keptiebakery.com

VODKA PRODUCER

Baker and confectioner adding to traditional rolls, scones and pies with hand-crafted occasion cakes.

Kinnettles Tea

Rennie’s the Butcher BUTCHER

MICRO-BREWERY

Bon Scott Brewery,, 8 Bon Scott Place, Kirriemuir DD8 4LD | 07855 808975, kirrie-ales.co.uk

About as small as micro-breweries come, this enterprise sells through local pubs, farmers’ markets and music events.

34 Angus Larder

Farm-based distillers of Scotland’s first potato vodka, also used to make Perfect Pour ready-mixed cocktails.

Forfar DD8 1TR

Kirrie Ales

Hatton of Ogilvy Farm, Glamis, Forfar DD8 1UH | ogilvyspirits.com

TEA PRODUCER

Single estate tea grower and handroller operating from her walled garden.

ONLINE LISTINGS

Longstanding family business selling and delivering milk and eggs from local farms and making cream and butter on site.

Myreside Organics

8 East High Street, Forfar DD8 2EG | 01307 466614

Traditional butcher specialising in locally-sourced meat, including from its own farm, and Aberdeen Angus beef. Also sells Saddler’s bridies.

Saddler’s of Forfar BAKER

35 East High Street, Forfar DD8 2EL | 01307 463282

One of two bakers in the town making the Forfar bridie, using meat from Rennie’s the butcher.

MARKET GARDEN

Silla Keyser Cakes

West Myreside, South West Fullarton Farm, Meigle PH12 8SN | 07872 057985, myreside-organics.co.uk

CAKE MAKER

Organic smallholding growing house salads and summer veg for local shops, restaurants and farmers’ markets.

Newton Farm Holidays

Drumleys House, Airlie, Kirriemuir DD8 5NU | 01575 530421, sillakeysercakes.com

Made-to-order cake specialist, not open to the public, specialising in theatrical, elaborate cakes.

AGROTOURISM FARM

Skea Organics

Newton of Fothringham Farm, Inverarity, Forfar DD8 2JU | 01307 820229, newtonfarmholidays.co.uk/farm

POTATO GROWER

Family-run working farm rearing cattle, sheep and goats, also offering farm tours and B&B.

East Mains Farm, Auchterhouse DD3 0QN | 01382 320453, skea.eu

Seed potato grower specialising in organic, specialist and heritage varieties.

Where to Buy

Small’s Confectionary SWEET SHOP

82 Castle Street, Forfar DD8 3AA | 01307 462404

Old-fashioned confectioner specialising in tablet, also producing its own fudge and ice, macaroons and traditional crispets.

The Star Rock Shop SWEET SHOP

27-29 The Roods, Kirriemuir DD8 4EZ | 01575 572579

Traditional sweet shop boiling its own star rock and selling a wide range of homemade goodies.

Storm Cakes BAKER

2 Damside, Aberlemno DD8 3PS | 07788 923787, storm-etal.com

Baker, not open to the public, specialising in homebaked bread and cakes without preservatives, sold mainly through farmers’ markets.

ARBROATH & AROUND Aberfeldy Oatmeal OATMEAL SUPPLIER

Milton Haugh, Carmyllie, by Arbroath DD11 2QS | 01241 860579, aberfeldyoatmeal.co.uk

Angus-based supplier of oats and oatmeal as well as flour, biscuits and oatcakes.

Alex Spink and Sons FISHMONGER

24 Seagate, Arbroath DD11 1BJ | 01241 879056, arbroathsmokiesonline.co.uk

Family business producing oaksmoked smokies for sale, wholesale and online. Also sells hot smoked salmon and trout.

Angus Soft Fruits

angussoftfruits.co.uk

Berry growers and plant breeders, as well as suppliers through the Good Natured Fruit range.

For info on farmers’ markets, see pages 44–45

Arbikie Distilling Ltd DISTILLERY

Inverkeilor, Arbroath DD11 4UZ | 01241 830770, arbikie.com

Craft distillery producing vodka and gin, with whisky to come.

Arbroath Fisheries FISHMONGER

5 Seagate, Arbroath DD11 5BJ | 01241 872331, arbroath-smokie.co.uk

Arbroath smokie specialists with a good selection of other fish on sale in their shop, online, at market stalls and fish vans.

Arbroath Smokies Direct FISHMONGER

Ladybridge House, 46 Ladybridge St, Arbroath DD11 1AX | 01241 876254, arbroathsmokiesdirect.co.uk

Small fishmonger also selling Arbroath smokies online. Shop sells fresh fish and shellfish, homemade pâtés and cooked fish dishes.

D Spink and Sons Fishmerchants FISHMONGER

51-53 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1AN | 01241 875732, derekspinkandsons.co.uk

Family fishmonger with on-site smokery producing traditional smokies. Also sells fresh fish and shellfish.

E&O Fish FISHMONGER

East Grimsby, Arbroath DD11 1NX | 01241 873574

Late-opening fishmonger selling a wide range of fresh and smoked fish and seafood.

BERRY AND FRUIT GROWER

East Seaton Farm, Arbroath DD11 5SD | 01241 879989, Angus Larder 35

Where to Buy

list.co.uk

Falconers Family Butcher BUTCHER

193 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1DY | 01241 873696

Traditional family butchers specialising in quality lamb, beef and pork cuts with sausages and baked goods produced on site. Shed 35

Fleming Butchers BUTCHER

27 West Port, Arbroath DD11 1RF | 01241 879119, flemingbutchers.co.uk

Traditional butchers, with pork from their own farm, famed for steak and gravy pies, home-cured bacon and homemade haggis and puddings.

Fresh Food Express ONLINE FOOD RETAILER

Myreside Farm, Inverkeilor, Arbroath DD11 5RL | 01241 830693, freshfoodexpress.co.uk

Online retailer of a wide range of Scottish food and drink, mostly sourced from small-scale artisan producers, including many from Angus.

HOPE Organic Garden & Shop SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

ONLINE LISTINGS For extended writeups of venues, with individual location maps, opening details and links, go to food.list.co.uk Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, food.list.co.uk features additional listings within Angus and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

Hope Garden, Hospitalfield House, Westway, Arbroath DD11 2NH | 07963 322457, hopeorganicgarden.org.uk

Kitchen garden shop selling fruit and vegetables grown on site by trainees. Open during the week, closed in winter.

Iain R Spink Original Smokies from Arbroath FISH SMOKER

Arbroath | 01241 860303, arbroathsmokies.net

Iain Spink’s Arbroath smokies and hot smoked trout are legendary and can be found at festivals and farmers’ markets. Not sold on site.

JM Bakery BAKER AND CAKE MAKER

180 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1HW | 36 Angus Larder

01241 871802, jmbakery.co.uk

A family-run craft bakery and wedding cake specialist with three branches in Angus; also in Carnoustie and Monifieth

Keptie Bakery BAKER AND CONFECTIONER

52 Keptie Street, Arbroath DD11 3AG | 01241 873484, keptiebakery.com

Baker and confectioner adding to traditional rolls, scones and pies with hand-crafted occasion cakes.

Lion’s Lair MICRO-BREWERY

2 Lochlair Farm Cottage, Arbroath DD11 2RF | 07924 2828624, lionslairbrewery.co

Mini micro-brewery specialising in cask ales, sold in pubs and restaurants in Angus and beyond.

Mackays Ltd PRESERVE PRODUCER

James Chalmers Road, Arbroath DD11 3LR | 01241 432500, mackays.com

Commercial jam and marmalade producer. Factory shop sells entire range including Mrs Bridges products and discounted lines.

Milton Haugh Farm Shop / The Corn Kist Coffee House FARM SHOP AND CAFÉ

Milton Haugh Farm, Carmyllie, by Arbroath DD11 2QS | 01241 860579, miltonhaugh.com

Farm shop that is also home to the Corn Kist café and Carmyllie Collectables antiques.

Redcastle Brewery MICRO-BREWERY

Drummygar Mains, Carmyllie, by Arbroath DD11 2RA | 01241 860516, redcastlebrewery.co.uk

Farm-based micro-brewery specialising in small-batch craft ales.

Where to Buy

DH Robertson

Terraweena UK

BUTCHER

GOAT STUD FARM

7 Fisheracre, Arbroath DD11 1LE | 01241 873519

West Mains of Kinblethmont, by Arbroath DD11 4RW | 07753 621567, terraweenaboers.co.uk

Small but smartly run local butchers with a knack for picking up awards for pies, sausages and service.

Sacred Grounds Coffee Company

A goat stud farm raising Boer goats for meat, sold direct and through Fresh Food Express.

Tipple in a Tuk Tuk

COFFEE ROASTERY

MOBILE GIN AND PROSECCO BAR

Unit 15, Arbroath Business Centre, 31 Dens Road, Arbroath DD11 1RS | sacredgroundscoffeecompany.co.uk

Leys of Boysack, Arbroath DD11 4RP | 07935 010978, tippleinatuktuk.com

Angus’s only specialist coffee roastery, sourcing ethically and sustainably, and offering retail and wholesale online ordering.

Sarah Gray’s JAM AND PRESERVE MAKER

Tiny bar serving prosecco and locally inspired cocktails at events and festivals; available for private hire.

White Rose Confectionary MARSHMALLOW MAKER

25 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1BE | 07901 851191

Milton Haugh, Carmyllie, by Arbroath DD11 2QS | sarahgrays.co.uk

Marshmallows made by hand and flavoured with local fruits.

M&M Smith

CARNOUSTIE, MONIFIETH & AROUND

Hand-made jams, marmalades, curds and jellies using plenty of local fruit sold through Scottish farm shops. FISHMONGER

22 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1BD | 01241 877836, mandmsmithfishmongers.co.uk

Hidden away fishmonger and smokery selling high quality Arbroath smokies, fresh haddock and other fresh fish.

Smithies Deli

Balhungie Berry Farm FARM SHOP

Balhungie Farm, Monifieth DD5 4HY | 01382 532502

Seasonal farm shop selling its own berries and vegetables, and serving cream teas.

DELI AND CAFÉ

East Scryne Fruit

16 Keptie Street, Arbroath DD11 1RG | 01241 873344, smithiesdeli.co.uk

BERRY FARM SHOP AND CAFÉ

Well established deli and café with an excellent array of cheese, dry goods as well as a line in craft gin.

M&M Spink

East Scryne Farm, Carnoustie, Carnoustie DD7 6LL | 07759 068791

Farm shop selling its own berries and jams, with on-site café specialising in home-made cakes and desserts.

FISHMONGER

Gather

10 Marketgate, Arbroath DD11 1AY | 01241 875287, arbroathsmokies.co.uk

GROCER

Fishmonger where customers can watch smokies being prepared from a backyard shed. Shop also sells wet fish, smokie pâté and fish cakes.

Find opening hours and links at food.list.co.uk

49 High Street, Carnoustie DD7 6AD | 01241 853493, fb.com/ gathercarnoustie

Small greengrocer and general store stocking local, seasonal produce and delivering veg boxes. Angus Larder 37

Where to Buy

list.co.uk

Grewar’s Farm Shop FARM SHOP

Dronley Farm, Muirhead, Dundee DD3 0QJ | 01382 580799, grewarsfarmshop.co.uk

88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium

Farm shop offering a range of local produce. Also selling fresh eggs, fruit and vegetables from innovative vending machines in different locations.

Ewarts of Tayside BUTCHER

• 72 High Street, Carnoustie DD7 6AH | 01241 855162 • 14-16 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AE | 01382 532029, ewartsbutchers. co.uk

Alan Kennedy’s group of high-street butchers carries Q Guild accreditation and presents an impressive selection of fresh, locally sourced beef, lamb, pork and game.

Turkey farm producing the high quality KellyBronze variety and selling to the public at Christmas.

The Speckled Hen FARM SHOP AND CAFÉ

Newbigging Farm, Tealing DD4 0QX | 01382 380255, tealingvillage.org/ thespeckledhen.html

Farm shop selling the farm’s own berries, vegetables and eggs. Café serves bacon rolls, homemade bridies, burgers and sandwiches.

WHERE TO EAT

Listings of Angus’ best options for eating out, including daytime cafés, takeaways, casual bistros and formal restaurants. Entries are grouped into four geographical areas running roughly north to south in Angus. Within each area entries are sorted alphabetically

JM Bakery BAKER AND CAKE MAKER

• 27 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AA | 01382 539021, jmbakery.co.uk • 118 High Street, Carnoustie DD7 7EB | 01241 859530, jmbakery.co.uk

Family-run craft bakery and wedding cake specialist with three branches in Angus.

MòR Brewing MICRO-BREWERY

Old Mill, Kellas DD5 3PD | 07593 245000, morbrewing.com

Micro-brewery, closed to the public, producing a range of real ales for supply to local bars.

Shed 35 Brewery MICRO-BREWERY

Chapman Drive, Carnoustie DD7 6DX | 01241 410261, shed35brewery.co.uk

Microbrewery producing a range of craft ales.

South Powrie Farm KELLYBRONZE TURKEY FARM

By Dundee DD4 0QG | 01382 504637, southpowrie.co.uk

MONTROSE, BRECHIN & AROUND Brechin Castle Garden Centre Coffee Shop GARDEN CENTRE CAFÉ

Haughmuir, Brechin DD9 6RL | 01356 626813, brechincastlecentre.co.uk

Family-friendly self-service café off the A90 overlooking a lake and parkland. Encompasses breakfast to afternoon bakes.

Edzell Tweed Warehouse CAFÉ AND GIFT SHOP

1 Dunlappie Road, Edzell DD9 7UB | 01356 648348

‘The Tweedie’ commands a loyal customer base for homemade soups, baking and the food and gift shop.

Glenesk Retreat CAFÉ AND MUSEUM

Tarfside, Glenesk DD9 7YT | 01356 648070, gleneskretreat.scot

Much-loved café and folk museum

Where to Eat

serving a freshly cooked menu of familiar classics. Closed during winter.

Sinclair’s Larder

Links Hotel

Chef Eden Sinclair’s breakfasts, lunches and cakes use local, seasonal produce.

HOTEL AND CONFERENCE CENTRE

Mid Links, Montrose DD10 8RL | 01674 671000, linkshotel.com

Choose between the restaurant, with highly-rated menu plus Sunday carvery, and lunch in the coffee shop.

Madisons CAFÉ AND TAKEAWAY

79 High Street, Montrose DD10 8QY | 01674 678432, madisonscafe.co.uk

Café specialising in slap-up breakfasts and baking; one of five outlets..

Nature’s Garden Café CAFÉ AND TEA SPECIALIST

1-4 Wharf Street, Montrose DD10 8BD | 01674 678411

Daytime café linked to Nature’s Garden greengrocer along the street.

Northern Hotel HOTEL AND BAR-RESTAURANT

2 Clerk Street, Brechin DD9 6AE | 01356 625400, northern-hotel.co.uk

CAFÉ

63 High Street, Edzell DD9 7TA | 01356 648285, sinclairslarder.co.uk

Stroma Bistro & Bar RESTAURANT

1-4 Wharf Street, Montrose DD10 8BD | 01674 678411

Waterside bistro sporting a British/ Indian mash-up menu.

Tea Rooms at Mum’s of Montrose CAFÉ

17 & 19 Castle Place, Montrose DD10 8AL | 07954 266458

Proudly traditional, old-fashioned, family-friendly tearoom strong on baking and soups.

The Tuck Inn CAFÉ AND TAKEAWAY

44 High Street, Edzell DD9 7TA | 01356 648262, tuckinnedzell.co.uk

Café with takeaway fish and chip bar, focused on traditional favourites.

The Baillie Restaurant inside the hotel serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner from a contemporary Scottish menu.

FORFAR, KIRRIEMUIR & THE GLENS

Paula’s at the House of Farnell

Armstrong’s Bar & Restaurant

CAFÉ AND GIFT SHOP

RESTAURANT

The Old School, Farnell, Brechin DD9 6UH | 01674 820717, houseoffarnell.co.uk

Roundyhill, Glamis DD8 1QT | 01575 575503, armstrongs-restaurant.com

Cosy, Danish-style café and treasure trove gift shop, popular for sandwiches, soups and Danish pastries.

Pavilion Café CAFÉ

Melville Gardens, Montrose DD10 8HG | 01674 958188

Restored bowling pavilion offers home baking, a creative menu and Sunday brunch once a month.

Where to Buy listings start on page 32

Family-friendly restaurant offering a cosy setting for drinks, lunches or high tea and dinner, with lots of Scottish favourites.

Artisana MOBILE PATISSERIE

Brooklands, Shielhall Road, Kirriemuir DD8 4PA | 07710 516920, artisanabakes.com

Mobile for-hire patisserie based in an old Citroen van, delivering homemade cakes and brownies vintage vibes at events and festivals. Angus Larder 39

Where to Eat

The Drovers Inn

list.co.uk

Chapelbank Hotel

Peel Farm

HOTEL AND RESTAURANT

FARM SHOP AND CAFÉ

69 East High Street, Forfar DD8 2EP | 01307 463151, chapelbankhotel. co.uk

Lintrathen, by Kirriemuir DD8 5JJ | 01575 560205, peelfarm.com

Boutique hotel with restaurant offering contemporary fusion and traditional Scottish dishes.

A collection of farm outbuildings with a coffee shop serving lunches, tea and treats, with an adjacent gift, craft and farm shop.

The Drovers Inn

Queen Street Tavern

PUB AND RESTAURANT

PUB RESTAURANT

Memus, By Forfar DD8 3TY | 01307 860322, the-drovers.com

45-53 Queen Street, Forfar DD8 3AL | 01307 462722, queenstreettavern.co.uk

Excellent pub restaurant in a beautiful setting turning fresh local ingredients into fine, meaty fayre.

88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium

The Stag

DELI AND CAFÉ

142-144 Castle Street, Forfar DD8 3HX | 01307 468564, thestagforfar.co.uk

17 High Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4BA | 07449 345089

Café serving excellent lunches, with a range of artisanal chocolates and bars.

Finavon Hotel and Café HOTEL AND CAFÉ-RESTAURANT

Finavon, Forfar DD8 3QD | 01307 850234, finavonhotel.co.uk

Hotel, restaurant, bar and café using fruit and vegetables from its own walled garden and local Angus products.

Popular pub serving what locals say is the best steak pie in town.

Glen Clova Hotel HOTEL AND RESTAURANT

Glen Clova, by Kirriemuir DD8 4QS | 01575 550350, clova.com

Hotel and restaurant offering Angus beef and venison from the owner’s farm, providing homemade food for families and climbers alike.

Murton Farm Tearoom FARM CAFÉ

Arbroath Road, Forfar DD8 2RZ | 01307 466041, murtonwildlife.org.uk

Farm tearoom in a pretty spot powered by its own wind turbines and offering meet-the-animals opportunities for children.

BAR AND CAFÉ

Pub, restaurant and café housed in a historic shooting lodge with a formerfarmer owner who still grows his own ingredients.

10 Cafe Bar BAR AND CAFÉ

The Cross, Forfar DD8 3AD | 01307 463004

Fun bar with a faithfully executed 10 Downing Street theme, taking drinks seriously and serving coffee and cake during the day.

Trumperton Forge Tearoom CAFÉ

Letham, Forfar DD8 2PA | 01307 818325

Child-friendly café serving simple, homecooked food with a play area, outdoor seating and farm animals to visit.

Visocchi’s Café CAFÉ AND ICE-CREAM MAKER

37 High Street, Kirriemuir DD8 4EG | 01575 572115, visocchiscoffeeshop. co.uk

Modernised version of the town’s long-established Italian café and icecream parlour.

Where to Eat

Artisana

Wee Bear Café CAFÉ

Lodge at Lochside, Bridgend of Lintrathen, Kirriemuir DD8 5JH | 01575 560427, lodgeatlochside.co.uk

Attached to the Lodge at Lochside, this rustic and cosy café specialises in breakfasts, soups and sandwiches plus homemade cakes.

ARBROATH & AROUND The Bellrock

Arbroath DD11 5SQ | 01241 877223, thebutnben.com

Popular, family-run, cliff-top restaurant serving fresh seafood, beef and game with a well-stocked sweet trolley.

The Cairnie Chip Shop TAKE AWAY

20 Cairnie Street, Arbroath DD11 3BJ | 01241 873203, cairniechipshop.co.uk

Traditional, family-run chippie serving fresh-tasting fish cooked in beef dripping.

RESTAURANT AND TAKEAWAY

33 Ladyloan, Arbroath DD11 1PW | 01241 873656, thebellrock.com

CAFÉ-BAR AND TRAINING RESTAURANT

Chippie and restaurant breaking new ground with battered and breaded Arbroath smokies and spicy fish.

Bon Bon SWEET SHOP AND CAFÉ

9-13 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1BE | 01241 437500/238895 fb.com/ Bonbonarbroath

Licensed traditional tearooms and confectioners serving lunch and afternoon teas.

But ‘n’ Ben RESTAURANT

Ethie Street, Auchmithie, by

For info on food festivals, see pages 44–45

Esk Building, Dundee and Angus College, Keptie Road, Arbroath DD11 3AE | 01241 432612, dundeeandangus.ac.uk

Training restaurant and café of Dundee and Angus College serving weekday lunches and evening meals on Wednesdays.

The Food Life FOOD AND DRINK COLLECTIVE

Myreside Farm, Inverkeilor, Arbroath DD11 5RL | 01241 830693

Angus-based food and drink collective, mixing pop-up vendors, established producers and other food businesses for festivals, events and education. Angus Larder 41

Where to Eat

list.co.uk

Gordon’s Restaurant RESTAURANT AND HOTEL

Main Street, Inverkeilor, by Arbroath DD11 5RN | 01241 830364, gordonsrestaurant.co.uk

Small but accomplished fine dining restaurant serving Modern British dishes. Pavillion Café

Hamish’s Hogs MOBILE HOG ROAST SPECIALIST

5 & 6 Peasiehill Road, Arbroath DD11 2NB |

Mobile food operation popping up at events or for hire, dishing out premium hog roasts from its smart custom-built trailer.

Harbourside Grill RESTAURANT

61 Ladybridge Street, Arbroath DD11 1AX | 01241 878104, harboursidegrill.co.uk

Restaurant with a seaside feel, specialising in seafood and steaks, offering lunch deals, light bites and more substantial dishes.

Hospitalfield CULTURAL ORGANISATION AND CAFÉ

Hospitalfield House, Arbroath DD11 2NH | 01241 656124, hospitalfield.org.uk

Historic house and gardens running artist residencies and events, with a garden café utilising local and homegrown ingredients.

Lunan Bay Diner CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT

Lunan Farm, Lunan Bay, Arbroath DD11 5ST | 01241 830600, lunanfarms.co.uk

Café with a surf-shack feel serving breakfasts and hot food on the edge of Lunan Bay sands and campsite.

The Muckle Backit Oven MOBILE WOOD-FIRED OVEN

61 Auchmithie, Arbroath DD11 5SQ | 01241 550758

Wood-fired specialists on wheels dishing out gourmet pizzas and more

at events and hires across Angus and beyond.

Old Bean Coffee House BAR AND CAFÉ

1B Millgate, Arbroath DD11 1NN | 07969 767200, oldbeancoffeehousearbroath. epageuk.com

Independent café serving locally roasted coffee, loose leaf tea and cake, with creative cocktails thrown into the mix.

The Old Boatyard RESTAURANT

Fishmarket Quay, Arbroath DD11 1PS | 01241 879995, oldboatyard. co.uk

Relaxed contemporary restaurant right by the harbourside with a seafooddominated menu.

T-Potters Café CAFÉ WITH POTTERY

2 West Port, Arbroath DD11 1RE | 01241 238045

Family-run creative café offering the chance to paint ceramics while enjoying light lunches, healthy juices and smoothies.

Vin-Tealicious CAFÉ AND SHOP

20 West Port, Arbroath DD11 1RE | 07968 005806

Popular tearoom and vintage shop rolled into one, with plenty of cakes and light lunches, with options for special dieters.

Webmor’s RESTAURANT AND BAR

66 High Street, Arbroath DD11 1AW | 01241 873987, webmors.co.uk

Smart, upbeat local restaurant popular for its contemporary approach and freshly prepared bistro-style dishes as well as Sunday roast and high tea.

Where to Eat

CARNOUSTIE, MONIFIETH & AROUND Café Byzantium CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT

Monikie Country Park, Monikie DD5 3QB | 01382 370970, byzantiumcafe.co.uk

Café restaurant in the park cooking up Mediterranean-inspired food and pizzas.

The Coffee Pot CAFÉ

27 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AA | 01382 533134

Sister café to the Laird’s Larder, popular with parents, serving sandwiches, soups and cakes.

The Craigton Coach Inn PUB AND RESTAURANT

Craigton of Monikie, Broughty Ferry DD5 3QN | 01382 370223, craigtoncoachinn.co.uk

Traditional pub grub served down by the reservoir.

Ganges RESTAURANT

11 Park Avenue, Carnoustie DD7 7JA | 01241 853336, gangescarnoustie.co.uk

Popular Indian offering typical fayre with some surprise, fusion dishes.

The Granary DELI AND OUTSIDE CATERER

8 Queen Street, Carnoustie DD7 7AB | 01241 855272, thegranarycarnoustie.com

Well-loved family business selling hearty hot food and sandwiches over the counter.

The Laird’s Larder CAFÉ

79 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AA | 01382 534092

Cheery traditional tearoom serving filled rolls, toasties and hot specials plus an array of homemade bakes.

The Milton Inn PUB AND HOTEL

Grange Road, Monifieth DD5 4LU | 01382 532620, themiltoninn.co.uk

Find opening hours and links at food.list.co.uk

Warm and friendly contemporary pub serving homemade classics plus daily specials with locally-sourced ingredients.

The Pear Tree Tea Room & Larder RESTAURANT

Burnhead Farm, Auchterhouse DD3 0QN | 01382 320266, peartreeauchterhouse.co.uk

Simple, country restaurant using local ingredients and boasting a notable pear crumble.

The Room with a View RESTAURANT AND BAR

Piperdam Golf and Leisure Resort, Piperdam, Fowlis DD2 5LP | 01382 581374, piperdam.com

Family restaurant with outdoor seating focusing on local ingredients.

Two Sisters Café CAFÉ

28 High Street, Carnoustie DD7 6AQ | 01241 410057

Family-run café delivering fresh, homemade soups, lunches and cakes.

The Waterside Restaurant RESTAURANT

Forbes of Kingennie, Broughty Ferry, Dundee DD5 3RD | 01382 350777, forbesofkingennie.com

Contemporary restaurant in the resort complex, delivering bistro classics with some innovations.

The WeeCOOK Kitchen CAFÉ-RESTAURANT

Broughty Golf Club, 6 Princes Street, Monifieth DD5 4AW | 01382 532147, weecookkitchen.com

Family café and bistro, part of Hayley Wilkes’ chef services. Offers locally sourced food in a casual environment.

Angus Larder 43

Food Festivals & Events

list.co.uk

Angus food festivals and events ■■Arbroath

Seafest

Various venues around Arbroath, arbroathseafest.co.uk

An annual festival of maritime heritage, including the star of the show, the Smokie Trail – around 70 stalls packed with fresh seafood along Arbroath harbour. Takes place over a weekend at the beginning of August. ■■Taste

Angus

Glamis Castle, Angus, 01307 840393 tasteangus.co.uk

Taking place in mid-August, Taste Angus brings together the best in local produce and culinary talent from around the region for a day of food-focussed delights. Sample signature dishes from top Angus chefs, chat to the local producers, try before you buy from the market and enjoy live music. There are also activities for kids. 44 Angus Larder

■■The

Angus Show

Brechin Castle, Brechin, 07739 378221, theangusshow.com

An early October agricultural show with cattle, sheep, goats, show horses, vintage stalls, trade stands and tractor pulling. ■■Angus

Brewfest

Strathmore Hall, Forfar, 07941 721829, angusbrewfest.co.uk

A one-day indoor food and drink festival taking place in mid October with local beers and ales, ciders, wines, gins, cocktails and more from local Scottish producers and brewers.

Keep up to date with details of other events at visitangus.com and @thefoodlifeangus on Facebook

Farmers’ Markets

Angus farmers’ markets FIRST SATURDAY OF EACH MONTH Montrose Montrose High Street

SECOND SATURDAY OF EACH MONTH Forfar Strathmore Hall, John Street

Markets run 9am–1pm; for information see angusfarmersmarket.co.uk and @AngusFarmersMarkets on Facebook

Angus Larder 45

Index

list.co.uk

Index

Breweries Brewfest

A Portuguesa

13 see Angus Brewfest

Bridies

see Forfar Bridies

Forbes, Annabel

Forfar Bridies

Aberdeen Angus Trail

Bruce Brymer Butcher

Aberdeen-Angus

But ‘n’ Ben

Ganges

Butter

Gather

Aberfeldy Oatmeal

11, 31, 35

Ale

13, 20

Alex Spink and Sons Angus Brewfest

Café Byzantium

11, 32

Chapelbank Hotel Charleton Fruit

44 14, 35

Apples Arbikie Distilling Ltd

Arbroath Fisheries Arbroath Smokies

Glen Clova Hotel

Glencadam Distillery 7, 25, 29, 32

Cherries

Chocolate

11, 16

Cocktails

24, 32

Glenesk Retreat

Goat

Golden Wonder potato

Gourmet Grocery Ltd

The Granary

The Corn Kist Coffee House

Grewar’s Farm Shop

The Craigton Coach Inn

Grouse

D Spink and Sons

Haddock

Deer

Hamish’s Hogs

Harbourside Grill

Highland Game

Arbuckle, Stewart

20, 23, 33

Gin, Infused

Gordon’s Restaurant

8, 10, 28

Arbroath Smokies Direct

37 15, 20

45 15, 35

Arbroath Seafest

Farm

12, 19

15, 18, 35

Arbroath Farmers’ Market

Gin Bothy

Carlotta’s Chocolates

Angus Soft Fruits

Gin

The Cairnie Chip Shop

Angus Orchards Project

Fresh Food Express 19, 25, 31, 36

Angus Glens Moorland Group 22 Angus Show

20, 32

Foraged Food

Coffee The Coffee Pot

Armstrong’s Bar & Restaurant 39

The Drovers Inn

Artisana

29, 38 22 15 29, 42

E&O Fish

Asparagus

Eassie Farm

Balhungie Berry Farm

East Scryne Fruit

Edzell Blue potato

Honeyhill Bee Farm

Edzell Tweed Warehouse

HOPE Organic Garden & Shop 36

Eggs

Hospitalfield

Bannocks J Barclay Butcher Barry Bannocks Barry Mill

32 7, 11 7

25, 35

11, 42

7, 8, 11, 31, 33 25, 37

88 Degrees Fine Food Emporium

Honey

Honeyberries

11, 16, 40

from Arbroath

6, 19

Beer

Ella Drinks Ltd

7, 8, 32

IC Fruit Company

The Bellrock

Events

44, 45

Ice-cream

21, 32

12, 42

Iain R Spink Original Smokies

Beef

Bel’s Butchers

16, 32

Ewarts of Tayside, Forfar

Infused Gin

10, 28, 36 33 19 see Gin, Infused

Bertram’s Quality Butchers

Ewarts of Tayside, Monifieth 38

Isabella’s Preserves

Bird, Fi

Falconers Family Butcher

Jam

Blackberries

Farmers’ Markets

James Hutton Institute

Blueberries

Farquhar, Rosie

James McLaren and Son

Bon Bon

Festivals

James Pirie & Son

Bouvrage

56 Restaurant

Bramble

Finavon Hotel and Café

Bramill, Kelly

Fleming Butchers

Brechin Castle Garden Centre 38 46 Angus Larder

The Food Life

8, 41 40

JM Bakery Kale

23, 33 23 15 8, 33 30, 34 7, 11, 36 15

29, 36

Keptie Bakery

34, 36

12, 41, 44

Kinnettles Tea

17, 34

Index Kirrie Ales 13, 34 Kirsty’s Gin 15 The Laird’s Larder 43 Lamb 7 Links Hotel 39 Lion’s Lair 13, 36 Lunan Bay Diner 42 Mackays Ltd 16, 23, 36 Macmenemey, Gordon 8 Madisons 39 Marmalade 31 Marshmallows 23 McEwan, Jillian 25 Milton Haugh Farm Shop 1 1, 25, 36 The Milton Inn 43 Montrose Farmers’ Market 45 MôR Brewing 13, 38 Mrs Bridges 36 The Muckle Backit Oven 42 Munro Walker, Susi 17 Murton Farm Tearoom 40 Mussels 20 Myreside Organics 34 National Trust for Scotland 7 Nature’s Garden 33 Nature’s Garden Café 39 Newton Farm Holidays 19, 34 Norma’s Homemade 23, 33 North Street Dairy 8, 34 Northern Hotel 39 Oatmeal 11 Oats 11 Ogilvy Spirits 18, 34 Old Bean Coffee House 42 The Old Boatyard 42 Park Brew 13, 33 Pattullo, Sandy 7, 31 Paula’s at the House of Farnell 39 Pavilion Café 20, 39 The Pear Tree Tea Room & Larder 43 Peas 25 Peel Farm 20, 40

Pick-your-own 29 Pies 21 Pigs 29 Pork 29 Potatoes 25 Queen Street Tavern 40 Raspberries 29 Redcastle Brewery 13, 20, 36 Rennie’s the Butcher 34 DH Robertson 37 The Room with a View Restaurant & Bar 43 Rosehill Farm 31 Rowett Institute 15 Sacred Grounds Coffee Company 12, 19, 37 Saddler’s of Forfar 8, 34 Salmon 8, 11, 25 Sarah Gray’s 31, 37 Sausages 30 Scarlett’s Scotland 16 Sea Kale 11, 31 Seafest see Arbroath Seafest Seaweed 16 Shed 35 Brewery 13, 38 Silla Keyser Cakes 34 Sinclair, Eden 24 Sinclair’s Larder 24, 39 Skea Organics 25, 34 Small’s Confectionary 35 M&M Smith 37 Smithies Deli 37 Smoked Trout see Trout, Smoked South Powrie Farm 28, 38 The Speckled Hen 38 M&M Spink 37 Spring Water see Water The Stag 40 Star Rock 28 The Star Rock Shop 28, 35 Storm Cakes 35 Strathmore Water 12 Strawberries 14, 20

Stroma Bistro & Bar 39 Sweet cicely 16 T-Potters Café 42 Taste Angus Festival 44 Tea 17 Tea Rooms at Mum’s of Montrose 39 10 Cafe Bar 40 Terraweena UK 19, 37 Thomson, Anne 7, 8 Tillygloom Farm 29, 33 Tipple in a Tuk Tuk 23, 37 Trout, Smoked 28 Trumperton Forge Tearoom 40 The Tuck Inn 39 Turkey 28 Two Sisters Café 43 Veal, Gillian 12 Venison 20, 24 Vin-Tealicious 42 Visocchi’s Café 19, 40 Vodka 18 Water 12 The Waterside Restaurant 43 Watson, Garry 11 Webmor’s 42 Wee Bear Café 41 The WeeCOOK Kitchen 15, 43 Whisky 24, 31 White Rose Confectionary 23, 37 Wilkes, Hayley 15 Woodhead, Johanna 11, 16

Angus Larder 47

Angus

52 Great Foods from Angus

list.co.uk

Larder THIRD EDITION

52 GREAT FOODS FROM ANGUS

This new edition of the Angus Larder showcases 52 great examples of the diverse and exciting local food and drink to be found in Angus. From beer to bannocks and smokies to sweeties, you’ll find an enticing selection of delicious, different and distinctive foods to try out, all of them with a story to tell about the place they come from. Included in the mix are favourite dishes incorporating local specialities described by Angus cooks, chefs and producers, along with useful listings of the best places to buy, sample and eat good local food and drink. The fully revised third edition of the Angus Larder includes: n 52 great foods: one for each week of the year n suggestions of local dishes from local chefs n useful listings of local shops and food producers n a guide to the best local cafés and restaurants n details of local markets and food festivals

48 Angus Larder

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