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Did you know the smallest details can make a world of difference? We did! Accuracy is the air we live and breath
HRD Antwerp India 2nd Floor, D Quadrant, The IL&FS Financial Centre, G Block, Plot C - 22, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East), Mumbai – 400051. Tel: +91 22 4256 8000 Mail: sales.india@hrdantwerp.com CERTIFICATION | EDUCATION | EQUIPMENT Discover more at www.hrdantwerp.com
An HRD Antwerp Jewellery Report is an official document in which a jewellery item is authenticated for different purposes, such as insurance, inheritance or purchase. It can also be used to determine the market value of a jewel. These reports provide a general description of the jewel, the diamonds it contains and the precious metals of which it is made.
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EDITORIAL
“A Pearl is Oyster’s Autobiography”
Pearls have always captivated people for centuries with its classic lustre and beauty. Ropes of pearls, be it short, long or layers of strings, they have always been fabulous. They are one of the oldest gems representing royalty, elegance and glamour. The most interesting thing about pearls is that they are the only gems produced by a living animal which requires no cutting or polishing, and this makes them unique and near-universal appeal. Pearls blend with any metals and enhance perfection and have an eccentric sense of fashion. From centuries-old jewellery to more modern glorious displays belonging to royalty, movie stars and other rich and famous, pearl drenched jewellery has created a niche for itself. It is beyond a gem, represents a wide range of virtues, from knowledge and experience to strength and integrity. Our Pearl Jewellery edition offers a plethora of interesting stuff that will grab your attention. Celebrities love for the pearls, the famous Mikimoto pearls and strings of pearl-studded jewellery, all of it in this edition of The J Mag. So, ‘If you need a pearl then dive for it’ Happy Diving!!!
Divya Vijayan CH I E F E DI TO R
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CONTENTS SEP 2019
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Cover page courtesy:Mihai Stef Cluj-Napoca, Romania, mih www.mihaistefanphotography
IN THIS IS
Content Partne
Symphony f
PEARL
Abaran-Timeless Je Bhima Jewellers, Foreve Antwerp, PGI, Swarovsk
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Symphonyof
The Pearl of City
PEARL 21
PEARLS Queen of GEMS
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Tale of Legendary Pearls
Opposites Attract
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PearL Jewellery: A symbol of Royalty and Sophistication 6
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The Nativity of Pearl
In the pursuit o beauty
fan Photography haistefann y.weebly.com
CONTENTS
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Strings of PRIDE
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PEARLS The Living Legends
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ewellery, ermark, HRD ki Gemstones
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Man of Few Pearls
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Pearls Precious & Perfect 44
From Grit to Pearls 45
Forevermark festive collection 46
E-stores
Did you Know?
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OFFE jewellery
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Jewellery Offers 7
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FEATURE
Strings of
The ďŹ ve s nostalgia t glamour is pleasure for exquisite earrings an quite a atte
Since time immemo exotic beauty. To thin is turned into such a upon layer itself is a
It is important respec which complete your drape the elegant bri jewellery of the land
Abaran Timeless Jewe with other gem the charm of Pearl jeweller temple jewel place in eve
We stand u and follows of creating mystique love for th made our beautifully o
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string of the Paach Lada is a fragrant taking you back to the Nizam’s era. The s all in full show and is a perfect trip of r the golden ladies. Match that with our designs of Chandbalis, the Chandelier nd the Mayura inspired pearl earringsering effect on the beauty of the wearer.
orial, pearls have been prized as a badge of purity and nk that a small piece of unwanted dust entering the oyster a piece of beauty simply as a result of nacre building layer a miracle.
ct extraordinary feat of nature by creating radiant classics r sophistication. The journey we started with a mission to ide and the glamorous modern-day woman with the finest d has brought us to this pinnacle of craftsmanship.
ellery takes this tradition further by exploring combinations ms. Our designers have linked the shine of the gems with the pearls and brought out masterpieces for all to enjoy. ry can range from strings of pearls to drops and from llery to modern day minimalist. Pearl jewellery demands a ery lady’s jewel box with pride.
upto its name in providing the best and excusive designs s up with excellent service. Priding ourselves with a legacy g celestial designs and winning laurels, we offer you the of pearls settled in masterpieces crafted out of pure he gleaming bud of an oyster. And we are proud to have customers not just happy and satisfied but also the most ornamented. That’s our Timeless service pledge.
By Abaran Timeless Jewellery
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COVERSTORY
Pearl goes with every dress and every style. Chandrani Pearls and Kundan set are my choices as it gives an indo-western and classy look. Preeti Sood, Actress
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Knot it or wear it long and loose or stud th promises to look gorgeous at any occasio necklace or choker or bangle or earrin
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honyof
ARL
hem, pearl jewellery is always classic that on. Stylish, graceful pearl jewellery, be it a ngs, it never fails to grab the attention.
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When it comes to jewellery, there are numerous choices offered in the market these days but the charm and elegance that pearl jewellery brings is unlike any other. History is evidence that pearl shells were worn as ornamental objects in Egypt in 4th millennium BC. The source of pearls has also been described in mythological and planetary terms. pearl also signified the moon and its enchanting powers to the Ancient Persians and the Egyptians treasured this gemstone so much that they were buried with them. Pearls epitomize class and royalty. Popularly known as the ‘queen of gems’ this wonderful gemstone in the form of the jewellery piece is one of the ancient old charms. It also becomes a delightful gift and is picture-perfect to wear during the day as well as sundown events. Graceful, chic, and elegance are the major reasons why pearl jewellery never goes out of style and fashion. It is said that pearl jewellery can never miss the attention and helps to express one’s personality. The right kind
of pearl-studded jewellery can add a dash of hue and appeal to the attire and accessories can immediately raise the intensity of sophistication of your outfit. Be it the traditional jewellery or contemporary jewellery, be it gold, platinum or silver, pearls have always the best gemstones that add beauty to the piece.
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INTERVIEW
PEARLS THE LIVING LEGENDS Yuvraj Singh | Actor
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Chains & Bracelets I’m a serious jewellery person. I love wearing plain gold and silver as well as diamond rings whenever I get the chance. I have been wearing gold pretty much all my life which is my all-time favourite in chains and bracelet. I lost my fav bracelet in Chandigarh which was gold and diamonds and I still miss that piece.
Powerful Gems... Yuvraj Singh who made his Bollywood debut opposite in the movie ‘Beimaan is also a producer. Just like his love for movies, he is also a great lover of jewellery. Be it diamond, gold or silver, he will not be seen without a trinket. In an exclusive interview with The J Mag, he talks about his fascination for pearls and why it is iconic jewellery.
Pearls fascinate me no doubt! I have tried to wear pearls but somehow, I never got the right quality. I used to carry two pearls in my bag, but later I realised they weren’t suiting me. They are powerful stones you must be careful with.
Glittering Brands… I have to confess I like Chopard and Cartier jewellery but our Indian makers are extremely good and I have my few dear friends who are in the trade. If you look around you find something good. Recently I got some very high-quality gold from Dubai as well.
Right Pearls Pearl looks best with silver no doubt. A nice necklace piece with the right pearls is the best or a good quality ring also is what you need at times. I think I need a pearl ring :) Pearl has so many ways to be made it’s truly a fashion Icon in male and female jewellery since generations. Pearl must be crafted neatly and because the gem is so elegant goes with pretty much anything. These days pearl earrings are getting in high demand surely. I’m always excited to get some pearls!
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INTERVIEW
The Pearl of
CITY
Raima Sen | Actress
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Raima Sen is the daughter of actress Moon Moon Sen and granddaughter
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of actress Suchitra Sen. She made her Bollywood debut with Godmother, which was a critically acclaimed success. Her breakthrough role came with Rituparno Ghosh’s film Chokher Bali. In an interview with The J Mag, she talks about her first piece of jewellery and her fascination for big jhumkas, heritage jewellery is always her first choice and about her favourite pearl set.
An earring buff I love jewellery and I am all time earring person. Am also a huge aficionado of watches and consider my Rolex watch as one of my favourite jewellery. I love my grandmom’s (Suchitra Sen) jewellery, especially her collection of earrings.
My favourite It is a piece of jewellery from my mom which is a whistle-shaped gold locket which she has preserved it for her first grandson. Mom buys all my jewellery. I inherited was a pair of diamond balis as a kid. Mom (Moon Moon Sen) gave them to me. Pearls are classically royal, and I inherited my grandmother’s pearl jewellery set which is very close to my heart.
Trending… Gold-Plated Pearl Earrings, Natural Pearl Necklaces, Pearl and Sterling Silver Necklace, Pearl Hair Clip are few popular trends in pearl jewellery
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MAN OF FEW PEAR Ranjha Vikram Singh | Actor
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Ranjha Vikram Singh is a dynamic actor and producer who has acted in Bollywood and Tollywood and Punjabi movies. Apart from being health conscious, Ranja loves to spend time with his family and close friends. His love for movies is big but his love for jewellery is something to be known about. In an exclusive interview with The J Mag, he shares about his favourites pearls.
Love Jewellery… I am a Jewellery person I love wearing Jewelleries, Mostly During functions, I wear jewellery like gold and silver, Diamond ring is my personal favourite choice.
The classic white… Akoya Pearls are the best about pearls, these pearls represent some of the best-cultured pearls Known for their metallic lustre and perfectly round shape, they are regarded as the classic white pearl. The pearl-studded jewellery has class and my favourite brand Tanishq ahs the best of the collections.
My favourite… I love pearl studded gold studs earrings because they make a great combination.
Pearl Pendant, Pearl Necklace and Diamond Jackeline Pearl necklace are few popular trends in pearl jewellery
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INTERVIEW
FROM
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From oversized necklaces to single earrings, pearl jewellery has shed its dainty allusions. We will find pearls in abundance this season—from hair clips and anklets to chokers and earrings—but the one thing they have in common is that these don’t have a perfect finish. Instead of neat strings of pearls, these are freshwater-style with uneven surfaces, natural colours and varying sizes. Although these are beautiful pieces that will give our look a 2019 refresh, they are still items that feel unique and that we can treasure for years and years to come, says Dwiti Bhuwalka, founder and owner of Pretios Jewellery. Pearls are back, but these seasons are nothing like your grandmother’s pearls. From delicate pearl hoops to ear cuffs and sculptural bracelets, the classic piece is getting a modern, reimagined update this season.
From prehistoric eras to ancient cultures and modern times, humans have consistently adorned themselves with pearls. Regardless of religion, culture, class or gender, people have fashioned pearls into necklaces, bracelets and other ornaments to decorate their bodies.
Pearls Are Traditional Coming of age, graduations, weddings, anniversaries, milestone achievements and special occasions are marked with the giving and wearing of pearls. Every pearl is unique, and its shape is natural and without artificial modification.
Pearls Represent Love Bonds Pearls represent the love bond between you and your loved ones like the essential relationship between the strong, resilient, and lustrous mother of pearl of the inner shell and the pearl created within.
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Pearls Are For Good Health The same elements that make pearls iridescent and strong make pearl powder a beauty ‘superfood’. The fine, white powder of ground pearls is rich in calcium as well as magnesium, amino acids, and trace minerals.
Popular Pearl Traditions The Indian jewellery scene is replete with pearls. Though India doesn't have a pearl farm of its own and imports all its pearls, traditional jewellery, as well as contemporary ones, uses pearls of different kinds. Popular traditional ornaments that are used even today, especially during weddings, like panchlara (five strand necklace), waistband and haath-phool, see extensive use of pearls of all sizes and shapes.
Timeless Trend Pearls are not just gemstones but an iconic name in the history of jewels reborn to fame by style icons. Pearl necklaces are truly a timeless trend. Pearl necklaces are fashioned in different lengths, giving us a pearl look for any fashion or occasion. Pearls can be worn by women of all ages, and well-chosen pearl necklaces are a valuable investment because of their elegance, beauty and timeless style. The Pearl brooch trend is gaining back its popularity. Go eccentric with a statement Pearl brooch styled with a power suit. Earrings are an accessory that one can never have enough of. Earring trends for 2019 will include bold, structured, Pearl studded earrings for that chic look.
Dazzling re-entry into fashion Within the past decade, pearls have made a spectacular re-entry into the fashion scene. While making pearl jewellery, one should always be cautious as real pearls are rare, thus expensive. Real pearls should always be knotted while creating
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a jewellery done for would grazing would
piece. This should be two reasons: - i) this prevent the pearls from against each other, thus preventing abrasion ii) secure the pearls from dropping if the strand breaks.
Exclusive craftsmanship Hyderabad acquired the moniker ‘City of Pearls in India’ due to its booming pearl processing and trading industry that has been supplying the finest of pearl jewellery to India and the rest of the world for more than 400 years. Since the time of the Nizams, Hyderabad has been a hub for high-class pearls, housing the largest number of pearl drilling centres in the entire world. And even today, the city actively preserves — and excels — in this unique craftsmanship. For centuries, skilled jewellers of Hyderabad have blended exquisite pearls with gorgeous emeralds, the richness of rubies, and the glitter of gold, to craft spectacular jewellery that has made the city famous throughout the globe.
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Pearls are known to be one of the world’s oldest gems and they have charm of their own. Be it with diamonds or gold or silver, the pearls always adds beauty to any ornament. Hyderabad has promoted and marketed pearls successfully, whereby people think Hyderabad is the source of pearls, which is actually not true, says Ishu Datwani, Founder, ANMOL.
PEARLS: QUEEN
OF GEMS
The pearl Trend South sea pearls with coloured gemstones in long chains is a popular trend in pearl jewellery currently. Regarded as the highly fashionable and craved of all cultured pearl varieties, South Sea pearls are extremely high-quality pearls. They are the rarest and most extraordinary quality pearls found in fine jewellery.
It is classic People opt for pearl jewellery because pearls are classic, elegant, understated and timeless. It is a symbol of stature and sophistication, and also symbol of milestone events, the strand of pearls is synonymous with stylish women.
South pearls are best with diamonds Pearls have different applications for different jewellery settings. South pearls work best for diamond jewellery, whereas tiny pearls are used in setting for Jadtar jewellery. Keshi pearls are usually strung in jewellery to enhance the look.
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PEARL
A SYMBO ROYALTY JEWELLERY SOPHIST
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Abhishek Kajaria, Founder & Owner of Avama Jewellers talks about how pearl has always been a precious oceanic gem and has its own charm. It has been in trend forever and adorned by all jewellers in their beautiful creations. This precious gem never loses its charisma and has been used in different formats in this industry of changing trends. Earlier pearl was worn by kings and queens as the symbol of tradition. He says,
“People used to prefer heavy neckpieces and chokers, long pearl necklaces, bangles, danglers, made completely from pearl. Slowly the trend changed, and pearl was used along with precious stones like diamonds and rubies in heavy traditional pieces. Till now pearl drops in traditional pieces are in trend. However, in their busy lives, tastes have changed, and people prefer lighter jewellery�. Pearl has leapt from traditional to fashion jewellery these days. Usage of pearl in hoops, fashion bracelets, stylish neckpieces can be seen as the latest trends. Coloured pearls are also in trend and go along with traditional as well as a modern collection of today. However, the traditional chokers and long necklaces never go out of fashion.
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Always appropriate In recent trends, Pearl is a representation of polish, class, balance and pride. Pearls are always appropriate in any kind of occasions, be it a wedding or a seminar or sports, pearls can never go wrong. People go with the trends and most of the western fashion designers use pearl jewellery while showcasing their garments. In India, Pearl is also associated with spiritual values and a lot of people adorn pearl jewellery for spiritual or astrological reasons as well. Moreover, Pearl looks beautiful when emended into any jewellery item. And due to its dynamic usage, people opt for pearl jewellery.
Pearls represent Indian heritage and royalty and are a symbol of pride. People in India value their culture and heritage and have converted the traditional symbol into a contemporary and modern look and adorning pearl with pride. Also, the spiritual associations with pearl are highly considered in India and mostly recommended by astrologers, making the demand high.
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Represents Indian heritage Pearl is an extremely beautiful oceanic gemstone that is associated with feminine elegance and beauty. In India, the demand for pearl is very high but mostly it has to be imported from China and Japan since pearl production is less in India. To cope up, Pearl farming is introduced in our country by many farmers. Government is supporting and subsidy is also available for the pearl farmers.
INTERVIEW
Hues of pearls Pearls are made by living creatures and thus are not hard gems like diamonds and rubies. These aquatic gems are available in various colours, shapes and sizes and can be used for making various kinds of jewellery like pearl necklaces, bangles, rings, and earrings. However, some specific kinds of jewellery designs fit well with pearls namely Chand bali earrings, chokers, long beaded necklaces, lined bracelets and single pearl rings.
Part of Hyderabad’s culture It is a well-known fact that Hyderabad is called the city of Pearls. Earlier it was known as a pearl and diamond trading centre. There is a traditional reason for this. The Nizams who ruled Hyderabad for over two centuries had a great fondness for pearls and pearl jewellery. They used to collect exotic pearls and gift their Queens expensive and exquisite pearl jewellery. Thus, craftsmen and merchants from all over the world flocked to the city for better prospects and thus pearl business bloomed and has been flourishing. Pearl became an integral part of Hyderabad’s culture since then and the city became the pearl destination of the country. Pearl business has now grown in leaps and bounds in the city and the designs have also evolved and some of the designs are unique to Hyderabad only.
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While making pearl jewellery, one should always be careful as real pearls are very expensive. Real pearls should always be knotted while creating a jewellery piece. This means that there should be a knot between two individual pearls. This should be done for two reasons: - i) this would prevent the pearls from rubbing against each other ii) would protect the pearl from falling if the strand breaks.
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Tale of
Pearls have always been around, and every famous pearl will have a tale to tell. A journey through history in the possession of affluent and influential people, the pearls have witnessed much. Speaking about the most extraordinary, most unusual, and most legendary examples of pearls in the world today, here are some of the most popular pearls of all time. 26
Christie’s
Legendary Pearls
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The Abernathy Pearl The Abernathy Pearl is a freshwater pearl that was found in Scotland’s River Tay in 1967. It is named after the diver who found it, Bill Abernathy. This pearl is one of very few that had been graded as “perfect.” Being found in Scotland makes it especially unusual. There have never been many pearls produced in those waters, but since the Industrial Revolution, the river has become extremely polluted. Pearls typically need pristine water to form, so that makes the Abernathy even more unique. It was displayed in a jewellery store in Cairncross for almost 30 years and then was sold in 1992. Nobody knows who currently owns the Abernathy Pearl.
The Huerfana This pearl was once part of the Spanish crown jewels. It was once owned by Doña Isabel de Bobadilla, the first female governor of Cuba. Sadly, the pearl is thought to have been destroyed during a palace fire in Cuba in the 18th century.
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La Peregrina Pearl This beautiful pearl has a long and storied past. It was discovered near Panama in the 1500s, and then given to King Phillip II of Spain, who gave it to his wife, Queen Mary. Its name, La Peregrina, translates to The Wanderer. This pear-shaped pearl is huge, weighing almost 56 carats. After Queen Mary died, the pearl passed through the hands of other queens of France and Austria, and then to Napoleon Bonaparte. In more recent times, Richard Burton bought it for Elizabeth Taylor as a Valentine’s Day gift. She loved it and wore it on a unique necklace with other gems such as diamonds and rubies, kick-starting a trend of pearl jewellery in modern times. It has been sold for nearly $11 million at a more recent auction. This pearl has been owned by some of the most powerful and fashionable women throughout history, and will surely continue to be one of the most treasured pieces of jewellery in the world for centuries to come.
The Gogibus Pearl
The Gogibus Pearl has a lo past. Discovered by a named Gogibus, the pear Philip IV. The pearl’s wherea unknown although every f lost Gogibus Pearl is rumou private collection in various
The Imperial Hong Kong Pearl A baroque pearl nearly the size of a bird’s egg, the Imperial Hong Kong Pearl earned its name through ownership by Chinese royalty. An interesting teardrop shape, this pearl is known for its amazing lustre and deep colouration.
Jomon Pearl
The Big Pink Pearl This pearl was discovered off the coast of California, the Big Pink Pearl was produced by an abalone. The diver who discovered this treasure still owns the pearl despite numerous offers to buy it. In 1991, it was valued at $4.7 million.
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At one time, the 5,000-year believed to be the oldest kno Older pearls have since been Peninsula, but the Jomon Pearl continues to be one of the most famous pearls in the world and is a national treasure in its native Japan.
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The Arco Valley Pearl The second-largest natural pearl ever discovered, the Arco Valley Pearl is reported to have once been owned by the famed explorer Marco Polo, who was given it by the Mongolian emperor Khubilai Khan. It’s the largest natural pearl outside of a museum in the world today.
Famous Pearls – The Pearl of Allah Also known as the Pearl of Lao Tzu, this interesting specimen is believed to be the largest natural pearl in existence. The pearl was found in the Philippines and given to Wilburn Cobb (an American) when he saved the life of the tribal chief’s son. Weighing in at more than 14 pounds and almost 10 inches across, it’s an enormous creation of the sea.
ong and mysterious Spanish merchant l was sold to King abouts are currently few years, the long ured to be seen in a s parts of the world.
r-old Jamun Pearl was own pearl in existence. n found in the Arabian
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The Hope Pearl Regarded as the largest saltwater natural pearl ever discovered, the Hope Pearl is an impressive specimen. It measures about two inches by four inches and weighs almost four ounces. The pearl ranges from a greenishgold colour at the bottom to a pure white at the top. This gem is in the permanent collection of the British Museum of Natural History, where any visitor to London can admire it. It also led to the popularity of baroque pearl jewellery. Henry Philip Hope once owned this pearl and the Hope Diamond, at the same time.
Regarded as natural wonders, these pearls are among the most beautiful examples of their kind. They continue to be treasured in museums, private collections, jewellery stores and “pearl history books” around the world. Courtesy: pearlsource
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CELEBRATE THE SUBTLE MAGNETISM OF PEARLS AND SWAROVSKI ZIRCONIA
Jewel O
There’s more to pearls than of pearls. The latest trend is the ultimate in subtle feminini Swarovski Zirconia, together the modern woman. The silky a timeless fashion favorite, tak when combined with the bril cut by Swarovski’s master cr make any woman shine like a shine, subtle warm radiance a mysteriously opaque and bol textures that has always been Pearls and Swarovski Zircon pure sugar and spice. Lookin
YUG by Tanvi Gold Cast
Gunjan Jewels
Gunjan Jewels
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Grandma’s old white strand s “opposites attract” - pearls, ity, and the sharp brilliance of they are the very essence of y-smooth texture of the pearl, kes on a whole new dimension lliance of Swarovski Zirconia, raftsmen, and guaranteed to a diamond. This is sheen and and exciting geometric angles, ldly transparent, a contrast of n at the very center of design. nia, a jewelry concept that is ng for an exciting contrast for
Jewel One
the coming autumn-winter season? Get ready to match tweed and sequins, leather and lace, wool and silk with jewelry created by nature, and perfected by man - pearls and Swarovski Zirconia, because opposites always attract!
Divinus Creations
Today’s world is filled with colors and latest technology allows for any color in the rainbow and beyond that can be created in Swarovski Zirconia as well as pearls. Swarovski Zirconia’s brilliance and silky-smooth texture of pearls when blended with a twist of new colors opens a totally new dimension of creativity and innovation in jewellery. Insights by Swarovski
The Swarovski Seal of Quality The Swarovski seal of quality is an independent endorsement standing for Swarovski’s enduring commitment to the highest standards of excellence since 1895. The use of the special ‘Zirconia from Swarovski’ seal is a strong symbol of identification for the products of Swarovski Partners, providing assurance that you are buying only the finest zirconia quality. All the jewelry showcased in this article are crafted with Swarovski Zirconia.
SWAROVSKI ZIRCONIA SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS
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KNOW IT ALL
The Nativity of
PEARL
Creating pearls is a fascinating process that requires much time and dedication. The oyster bed is a natural habitat that must be painstakingly nurtured before a pearl can even be conceived. The cultivation process begins with a core. In natural pearls, this is simply a fragment of shell, fishbone or sand that floats into the shell of pearl oyster. To protect itself from this irritant, the oyster secretes thousands of layers of nacre, forming a pearl.
Mikomoto
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KNOW IT ALL
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Akoya Cultured Pearls BlueNile
Prized for their brilliant lustre and rich colour, Akoya Cultured Pearls are a traditional symbol of elegance and beauty. Produced by Japan’s Akoya oysters, they are the most popular of all pearl types. Depending on the size of the mother oyster, they grow from 3-10mm. Colours range from white, cream and pink to light green, blue and silver.
Qualities of Pearls Each pearl harvested is as individual as a fingerprint, making it essential to establish quality grading standards. As the Originator of Cultured Pearls, Mikimoto maintains the strictest standards. Here are the five factors we use to assess quality keep them in mind when you are buying pearls:
Lustre The amount of light a pearl reflects from both its surface glow and the deep mirrorlike reflection of its inner light. The better the nacre quality of the pearl, the more superior its lustre. Only the highest quality pearls with the most luminous lustre carry the Mikimoto name.
Surface Perfection Subtle blemishes and tiny marks are part of a pearl’s natural texture and proof of its genuine origin. These blemishes result from sea particles that drift into the oyster and brush against the pearl as it forms. Fewer surface imperfections denote a higher quality, more valuable pearl.
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Shape Of the many shapes available, perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most valuable. With Mikimoto South Sea pearls, unique shapes like button, tear drop, oval and baroque are also favoured.
Colour Pearls vary widely in colour, based on the type of oyster that produces them. The rarer the shade, the more valuable the pearl. Colours range from cream, pink and grey to black, green and blue. White and pink rosé are among the most popular Akoya colours; peacock green and gold are among the rarest South Sea shades. While colour choice is a matter of personal preference, always look for rich colour that is evenly distributed throughout the pearl.
Size While size does not affect the quality of cultured pearls, it does affect the price. Large pearls are more difficult to cultivate because oysters often reject the large implanted nucleus; their rarity creates higher value. Pearls are measured in diameter increments of millimetres (mm). The classic Akoya Cultured Pearl generally ranges from 3mm to 10mm. South Sea pearls begin at 8mm and can grow as large as 18mm. Courtesy: Mikomoto
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PEARLS
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A common confusion amongst many is the difference between a natural and a cultured pearl. To explain in short, a cultured pearl is not a synthetic or a lab-grown pearl nor is it an imitation. Natural pearls grow in a natural water source such as saltwater or freshwater. The molluscs that live in these different water zones adapt themselves to the water temperature and are native to that particular water zone. Water zones could warm or cold water. An irritant from the seabed or a part of the mollusc’s shell can enter the mollusc making the sea creature develop a defensive mechanism. The mollusc starts coating the irritant with a layer of nacre similar to when a human has a cough. The layers of nacre can determine the quality of the pearl making it more lustrous. Usually, the pearls that are formed naturally do not have a definite shape and are often irregularly shaped or baroque. In the olden days, women divers ventured into the cold waters off the coast of Japan to retrieve the pearls from within these oysters.
Ever wondered how pearls were formed or if the myth of a falling dewdrop on a full moon night into the mouth of an oyster is true? For centuries pearls have fascinated the minds of humans. They have been regarded as the sign of royalty with royal families across the globe adorning themselves with this beautiful creation of nature.
Basra, a region in old Persia was known for its famous Basra pearls which have since the last 200 years plus become extinct due to the rising pollution in the water bed. Today, more than 95% and above of pearls found in the market are cultured pearls.
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Cultured pearls in layman’s terms are similar to a surgery-induced within an organism. A bead of a particular shape and size is inserted into the regional molluscs. These molluscs belong to a pearl farm where they are used for pearl farming. The mollusc by nature detects the bead as an irritant and starts coating it with nacre thus creating a cultured pearl.
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Depending on the species of the mollusc, the colour and size of the pearl can vary. The famous Akoya pearls which are known for being the whitest come from the area around Japan. South Sea pearls are farmed south around Australia and regions around it. Polynesia is home to the Tahitian pearls which are known for their black or grey body colour with beautiful overtones. China is known for its freshwater pearls. Although most of the pearls today are cultured, there are still many areas where natural pearls are found which includes the USA, Venezuela and Scotland. Bahrain is a famous destination for natural pearl trading. Imitation pearls, on the other hand, include glass and plastic beads which are often coated with fish scales to imitate the appearance of a pearl. Pearls can be identified for their origin and nature by gemmological laboratories where special gemmological instruments are used to determine their nature. The
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price value of a natural pearl is far higher than that of a cultured pearl. Cultured pearls can also often be subjected to various treatments to improve their colour and to remove blemishes on their surface. The grading parameters for pearls are different from the parameters used for diamonds and gemstones. These include shape, body colour, overtone, size, nacre thickness, matching and blemish-free. The more a string of pearls is similar in all the above-said parameters, the more expensive they become compared to a non-matching string of pearls.
How to take care of pearls Pearls are delicate in nature and tend to develop cracks in them. To protect pearls, it is very important that they do not come in direct contact with any harmful acids, makeup, creams or even perfume. Storage of pearls should be in breathable cloth such as a muslin cloth instead of plastic pouches. It is also very important to re-string your pearl necklace if not made in metal. Pearls should not be subjected to cleaning in ultrasonic cleaning machines or under steam cleaners. Avoid brushing pearls with a toothbrush as the bristles of the toothbrush may cause scratches. You can wipe the pearls clean with a soft cotton cloth. Moisture is one of the best ways to keep the beauty of pearls intact; hence avoid storing pearls over a long duration in enclosed boxes.
An exclusive knowledge sharing series by HRD Antwerp. To know more, reach out to: www.hrdantwerp.com
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IN THE PURSUIT OF BEAUTY Kokichi Mikimoto devoted his life to pearls and was called the Pearl King. In 1893, he etched his name in history when he successfully creating the world’s first cultured pearls. Ever since, his lifelong dream of “adorning the necks of all women around the world with pearls” has lived on through Mikimoto, a company that has dedicated itself to the pursuit of beauty for over a century.
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Having succeeded in creating the world’s first cultured pearl, the history of Mikimoto has begun. Before the development of cultured pearls, only natural pearls were available, which were mere products of chance. Less than one in a thousand oyster shells may produce a pearl during their lifetime. Relentless in the pursuit of beauty, Kokichi Mikimoto decided to try culturing pearls that are loved by people all over the world. He was a dreamer and he did not let his dream die. He became the first in the world to successfully culture a semi-spherical pearl in 1893. He continued his attempt to culture many different types of pearls, including black and white South Sea cultured pearls in addition to perfectly round pearls, hence becoming the originator of cultured pearls.
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The pioneer who laid the groundwork for modern jewellery industry in Japan through promoting beauty and culture of jewellery. Kokichi Mikimoto quickly began to broaden his scope of interest, producing jewellery using gems other than pearls. He sent skilled craftsmen to Europe to learn the very latest design techniques and styles in jewellery, including Art Deco and Art Nouveau. Using the experience and knowledge they brought back from Europe, he spent decades skilfully blending traditional Japanese metalworking craftsmanship and European manufacturing techniques to create the distinctive Mikimoto style. Going beyond being the originator of cultured pearls, he succeeded in building the foundation for modern jewellery production in Japan. We are proud that we have been instrumental in introducing beauty and culture of jewellery to Japan. Exhibited at the 1937 World Exposition in Paris, the legendary Yaguruma Sash Clip wowed the world and led the brand to worldwide recognition.
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Kokichi Mikimoto had a true talent for promoting his pearls while surprising the world with amazing creations. Apart from using newspapers and advertisements, he proactively participated in international exhibitions. He did not just show pearls as they were, but always made elaborate presentations to ensure they were extremely eye-catching. Through his efforts, Mikimoto established a strong presence as the pioneer in cultivation, processing and sales of pearls in the world. Focusing his attention overseas, he held an exhibition at the 1937 Paris International Exposition featuring the Yaguruma Sash Clip which could be used in dozens of different configurations. The unique piece of jewellery generated a great deal of admiration for its creative and innovative ideas.
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CRAFTMANSHIP: THE MIKIMOTO STYLE From the earliest days of his company, Kokichi Mikimoto recognized the importance of jewellery design. Researchers were dispatched to the U.S. and Europe to study design and manufacturing techniques. The reference materials and actual pieces they brought back to Japan were used to train jewellery designers in cutting-edge Western design and manufacturing skills, laying the foundation for modern jewellery production in Japan. Kokichi Mikimoto spent decades developing new interpretations of traditional Japanese motifs for aesthetically pleasing pearl jewellery, skillfully blending traditional Japanese metalworking craftsmanship and European manufacturing techniques to create the distinctive Mikimoto style. The Mikimoto Gold Work Factory (today’s Mikimoto Jewellery Mfg. Co., Ltd.) was established in 1907 as a dedicated manufacturing facility for the Mikimoto Pearl Store. At the time, Japanese accessories tended to be rings, sash clips and hair ornaments. Integrated facilities to manufacture a variety of items were rare and no existing factory was capable of incorporating elements of Western design. Introducing European designs and manufacturing techniques, the Mikimoto Gold Work Factory pioneered the production of innovative pearl jewellery. As the distinctive Mikimoto style evolved over the years, sophisticated techniques were developed and the number of skilled craftsmen increased. Mastering techniques such as millegrain, openwork, and Keshi pearl beadwork, Mikimoto produced jewellery to rival the best pieces from the West. These techniques and pride in craftsmanship continue to define the living heritage of Mikimoto.
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COLLECTIONS JEUX DE RUBANS Jeux de Rubans is a new collection of high jewellery portraying the timeless motif of ribbons with a touch of luxurious whimsy. The fluid beauty of chance and certainty will make your heart sing.
KOFUKU NO KI A customer told us that this brooch has always brought her good luck. Literally meaning the “Tree of Luck,” Kofuku no Ki is a very special reinterpretation of the beloved classic.
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LES PÉTALES PLACE VENDÔME This collection has been inspired by the rose petals that float in the air and then descend onto the Place Vendôme in Paris. Every piece, featuring signature petals covered in brilliant diamonds, is a reflection of this beautiful place, around which congregates the world’s top luxury brands.
THE MIKIMOTO COLLECTION This collection represents the ultimate in jewellery from Mikimoto. All our materials are carefully selected and sourced from around the world for their exceptional qualities then shaped into graceful designs that show off the beauty of precious gems to their fullest potential. Ring PR-7861CR Platinum, Conch Pearl, Diamond
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PRAISE TO NATURE Praise to Nature collection pays homage to vibrantly changing faces of nature in the form of beautiful jewellery.
ESSENCE OF MIKIMOTO Discover Essence of Mikimoto, a name synonymous with the spirit of never-ending innovation. It is a striking example of new possibilities of jewellery that breathe a wealth of imagination and creativity.
Courtesy: Mikimoto
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KNOW Pearls have been a favorite gemstone since the Vedic period
Pearl Paradise
Keshi pearls are actually bi-products within the mollusk during the cultivation process
Basra is the name of the area in old Persia (modern day Iran) where the natural pearls were found
Pearls (natural and cultured) can feel gritty when rubbed against the teeth
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Cultured pearls were introduced by Mikimoto Kokichi (Japan) in 1893
Hyderabad became famous because of pearl trading during the Nizam’s period
Pearls can occur in almost any color with some colors being extremely rare
Baroque means a pearl which has no definite shape
Bahrain (Middle East country) deals only with natural pearls
Not all mollusks can have pearls within them
EVENTS
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NATURAL DIAMONDS BRING ON THE FESTIVITIES OM Jewellers, one of the most trusted jewellers in Mumbai, launched their festive collection crafted with genuine, natural Forevermark diamonds. Film star Karisma Kapoor graced the occasion at their Borivali store today. Highlighting the exquisite brilliance of a Forevermark diamond, OM Jewellers has expertly curated 300 gorgeous pieces crafted in beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced diamonds making it ideal to gift or self-purchase during the festive season. Each of the designs highlights the unwavering perseverance towards the excellence and consistency of OM Jewellers. “We are delighted to celebrate our 7-year association with Forevermark. OM Jewellers is launching the festive collection that is opulent and quintessentially trendy this season. The Chandelier earrings, rings and elegant neckpieces are styled such that they can
be easily worn from Ganesh Puja to Diwali party or even to wedding functions. When great craftsmanship collaborates with beautiful diamonds, it results in heirloom pieces that you will wish to pass on to generations.” Said Bhavin Jakhia, Director, OM Jewellers. Speaking on the occasion, Sachin Jain, President, Forevermark India said, “Diamond jewellery holds a great significance for a modern Indian woman and when it comes to purchasing jewellery during the festive season, she looks for something that is genuine, natural and precious. Keeping this factor in mind, we are delighted to unveil the new festive collection at OM Jewellers as it blends traditionality with modernity, making it an ideal choice for today’s multitasking woman.”
Karisma Kapoor, attended the event wearing beautiful Forevermark jewellery. She stated, “A diamond is forever, it is the eternal promise that is provided by Forevermark. Each Forevermark diamond has a unique identification number, which is a mark of this promise. It is a pleasure to be present at OM Jewellers as they offer the finest diamond experience to their customers with unique designs for today’s modern women.”
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