The Intrepid Explorer - Issue 19

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • 3rd Edition 2017 R29.90 Incl. VAT

INTO THE HEART OF THE AMAZON From night walks and bush braais to Amazon River dolphins

A VOLCANO CALLED REUNION

THE LONGEST DAY

We visit the hotspot French island

Running the length of the historical D-day landing site

HOW TO MOUNT A CAMEL

An incredible journey through the great Australian Outback

running

running champions for the hills Trail and friends, AJ Calitz

together This magazine is

The official Cape Union Mart magazine

and Bernard Rukadza tackle the elements as a team

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› SUN AND FUN IN THE SUN – Cape Union Mart’s new gear and garb for the summer season › NATURE UNCUT – Gaven Sinclair and his latest African challenge › LIFE THROUGH THE LENS – Featuring award-winning world photographer, Brian Skerry › RHINO MISSION – Wildlife presenter, Bonne de Bon on saving the Rhino from extinction › THE LAST WORD – Carte Blanche’s Derek Watts shares some of his intrepid travels

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CONTENTS

3 RD ED IT IO N 2017

16 08 FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne, Cape Union Mart CEO

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Live life to the fullest

RUNNING FOR THE HILLS TOGETHER Miriam Mannak chats with trail-running champions and friends, AJ Calitz and Bernie Rukadza

TRISTAN ROBERTS Angus Begg caught up with this highly talented bodyboarder, with a wonderful career ahead of him

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40 A FRIENDSHIP TURNED GOLD Two athletes from vastly different worlds talk to Simon Capstick-Dale about how they came to win Gold in the Dusi Canoe Marathon

IN THE HEART OF THE AMAZON Laurianne Claase explores Otorongo Lodge and surrounds and even encounters the Amazon River dolphins

46 A VOLCANO CALLED REUNION

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34 HOW(E) TO MOUNT A CAMEL Graham Howe takes us on an incredible journey through the great Australian Outback

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Sarah Kingdom visits the ‘hotspot’ French island in the middle of the vast ocean

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RHINO MISSION

Wildlife presenter, Bonne de Bon is determined to save the Rhino from extinction

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CONTENTS

3 RD ED IT IO N 2017

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78

THE LONGEST DAY atthew Holt revisits the D-day M landing site to run a 70km run through the historical setting

SUN AND FUN IN THE SUN

60 64

We feature Cape Union Mart’s new gear and garb for the summer season

68 LIFE THROUGH THE LENS In this edition we feature awardwinning photographer, Brian Skerry

HIT THE ROAD. JACK The Big 5 – catch a sighting of the latest motor vehicles

74 ON THE WILD SIDE The latest news from the outdoors

82 CAPE UNION MART STORE LISTINGS

83 THE LAST LAUGH Graham Howe downs a few One Fift Lashes and visits Mad Max

NATURE UNCUT Simon Capstick-Dale talks to Gaven Sinclair about his latest African challenge

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84 THE LAST WORD Carte Blanche’s Derek Watts shares some of his own intepid travels

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FO R E WO RD

Greetings, Intrepid Explorers!

A

s we find ourselves hastily approaching the end of 2017, we also find ourselves in the most beautiful and colourful season of all – Spring! With Spring’s inauguration, one’s mind quickly wanders to the festive season and making Summer memories.

Whether you are spending it with family and friends at home, travelling abroad or exploring our local landscape – we can all agree that as South African’s, we have an insatiable hunger to invest in experiences and creating memories.

With that said, we are extremely excited to have launched our Summer campaign – which is all about creating epic experiences, and Cape Union Mart has the apparel, footwear and gear to make these experiences richer!

We are also working hard on preparing for the festive season and ensuring our stores are stocked to the brim with gifts and gadgets for the whole family. Get all the shopping out of the way so that you have more time for adventuring and creating those memorable experiences!

In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we look at some of those great experiences. From visiting the Reunion Island, exploring the Amazon to bodyboarding!

We are also proud to see our trailblazing ambassador, AJ Calitz and his running partner Bernard gracing the cover of this edition.

We are also proud to be celebrating the 1 year anniversary of the youngest brand in our stable, Keedo. It has been 12 months since our acquisition of this iconic local chain and we are excited at the new opportunities that this chain provides. This brings our total store tally to 260+ stores!

So, as we close off 2017 and herald in 2018 – I wish you a prosperous and memorable journey ahead!

Yours in adventure,

Andre Labuschaigne Chief Executive Officer Cape Union Mart

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 19

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E D ITO R ’ S N O TE

LIVE LIFE TO THE

FULLEST

I

know that perhaps starting an editor’s note with this rather depressing introduction might seem rather dispiriting but bear with me please as there is positive message at the end.

In the past two months, I have a number of close friends who have suddenly and shockingly lost a loved one, another dear friend had a heart attack in his early thirties and yet another special friend’s daughter had a stroke two weeks after her 21st birthday bash.

All the above traumatic events happened without the slightest provocations’, they were all extremely healthy and active people. I am happy to report that the heart attack and the stroke victim are out of the woods but alas it was not to be the same for the other two, who left our earthly plain too early.

The reason I bring up these rather melancholic examples is to emphasise the profound effect it had on me. It made all the small stuff we sweat about during our daily grind suddenly seem really un-important in the bigger scheme of things. That one day we could be here complaining about bad traffic or phone signals, worrying about how we are going to pay the bills at the end of the month and the next minute we could be whisked away to the ‘never again’. It really puts things into perspective.

So, the point I am making, is put down the cellular phone (do you know the average person spends four years of their life looking at their phone?) and get out there and live life to the fullest. We never really know when our ticket might be up. Treasure your loved ones and enjoy every minute. Spend time with the important people in your life; jump out that plane or go and do that shark-cage dive; book that holiday you have been talking about for years but never ‘found the time’ to commit to.

Cherish the laugh of your young child; enjoy the sweet smell of the grass after you have mowed the lawn; look up and embrace

the rain falling on your face; marvel at the sound of the fish eagle overhead. It all goes by so quickly and we all need to revere the people and things that matter most.

Summer is finally upon us so get out there, ride a bike, take a hike and be with those you love dearly.

Thanks, as always for being such loyal readers, we appreciate all the positive feedback and please keep it coming. If there is something/somewhere/someone in particular that you would like to see us cover in The Intrepid Explorer please let me know at robbie@intrepidexplorer.co.za Until next time, enjoy this edition and keep living the life of adventure!

Robbie Stammers Publishing Editor RIP: Cheryl Taylor – You were very loved PS: Don’t forget to like us on Facebook to get access to loads of fresh content, and download the full digital version of this edition with many extras FOR FREE via Google Play and Apple’s App Store.

Congratulations to the winner of our last edition’s competition!

George Mkwanazi of Wynberg, Cape Town! Enjoy your trip for two to Mabula Game Lodge.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 19

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C ONT R IB U TO RS › Simon CapstickDale’s love for adventure was born in a mokoro, paddling down the narrow arteries of Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

Having documented his adventures in publications ever since, his incurable itch for experiential travel has not abated—along with his obsession for collecting passport stamps.

When not boarding the next flight out of Cape Town, Simon prefers to spend his time reading non-fiction, watching hours of sport, and researching prospective travel destinations. Next stop: Vietnam. › Graham Howe is one of South Africa’s most experienced lifestyle journalists; he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications for more than 25 years. When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent, and for the weekly travel show on SAfm. › Laurianne Claase made Cape Town her home base after travelling around the world, working on a dive boat in the Red Sea, on a ferry between the Greek Islands, in a Scottish country hotel, and teaching English in Taiwan. She’s the author of Caught Out: Cricket Matchfixing Investigated (long-listed for the Alan Paton Award in 2008), as well as several guidebooks and coffee-table publications on Cape Town and Robben Island. › Miriam Mannak is a journalist and photographer​based in Cape Town.

She ​covers a range of​topics including travel and tourism in southern Africa and related issues such as the environment and sustainable social development.

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Explorer The Intrepid

› Matthew Holt is a self-confessed list-ticker.

He’s climbed the seven continental summits, skied the last degree to both Poles and, so far, climbed more than 30 of the world’s 50 most prominent peaks.

He’s also chanced his luck at bog snorkelling, cheese rolling, wife carrying and bull running. A freelance writer based in Cape Town, Matthew is the author of two books: The Miles High Club and Life’s Rich Tapestry. › Angus Begg likes to giggle, but he’s serious about his craft. A CNN awardwinning television producer, he was the first South African broadcast journalist to report from the chaos of Somalia in 1992. It was these episodes in Somalia and Rwanda that took him the roundabout route to the fields of travel and environment, in which he now writes, produces and photographs. Angus has gone on to cover every aspect of travel— whether rural communities clashing with wildlife, tracking the Serengeti migration, hiking Table Mountain, or searching for that perfect Sauvignon Blanc. › Sarah Kingdom is an Indian Mountaineering Federation–recognised mountain guide. Born and brought up in Sydney, Australia, she climbed her first peak when she was 10 years old. Keen to keep up the ‘family tradition’ of climbing a notable peak at a young age with her own children, but now living in Africa, she took her eldest son up Mt Kilimanjaro when he was also 10.

She regularly guides on Kilimanjaro, and has climbed and guided expeditions in Nepal, India, Tibet, Russia and Turkey. Sarah owns an 8 000-acre cattle ranch in Central Zambia, where she currently resides when she’s not climbing.

Live the life of Adventure

Publishing Editor ROBBIE STAMMERS robbie.stammers@anapublishing.com Art Director STACEY STORBECK NEL stacey.nel@anapublishing.com Head of Advertising Sales KEITH HILL keith.hill@anapublishing.com Advertising Sales Executive PETER SAVAGE-REID, JACKY VILLET Office Manager SUSAN BALL susan.ball@anapublishing.com Financial Manager LISA DE VILLIERS lisa.devilliers@africannewsagency.com Social Media Platforms TACITA McEVOY from SocialMediaNow tacita@socialmedianow.com Editorial Contributors Graham Howe, Simon Capstick-Dale, Angus Begg, Matthew Holt, Laurianne Claase, Sarah Kingdom, Derek Watts, Miriam Mannak Photography Cover: Richard Hughes Graham Howe, Sarah Kingdom, Laurianne Claase, Matthew Holt, Angus Begg, Jeff Ayliffe, Brian Skerry, Josh Tabone Cape Union Mart www.capeunionmart.co.za Marketing Manager: Odile Hufkie Printer RSA Litho Distribution Cape Union Mart stores MDA Distribution Media Support Services PUBLISHED BY

CEO, African News Agency (ANA): Grant Fredericks Physical address: 176 Main Road, Claremont, 7700, Cape Town Postal address: PO Box 23692, Claremont, 7735 Telephone: +27 (0) 21 683 0005 Website: www.anapublishing.com

No article or any part of any article may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. The information provided and opinions expressed in this publication are provided in good faith, but do not necessarily represent the opinions of Cape Union Mart (PTY) Ltd, Insights Publishing or the editor. Neither this magazine, the publisher or Cape Union Mart can be held legally liable in any way for damages of any kind whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from any facts or information provided or omitted in these pages, or from any statements made or withheld by this publication.

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AJ C AL IT Z A N D B E RN A RD RU KADZ A

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AJ C AL IT Z AN D BERN ARD RUKADZA

Running together FOR THE HILLS

Trail running champions AJ Calitz and Bernard Rukadza had been competing against each other for a few years when they teamed up in 2014 for the AfricanX Trailrun, one of South Africa’s most iconic stage races. They won the threeday event with over a minute and a half to spare. Various team victories have followed since, paving the way for an everlasting friendship, writes Miriam Mannak

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AJ C AL IT Z A N D B E RN A RD RU KADZ A

B

orn in 1981 in the eastern part of Zimbabwe, Rukadza picked up running when he was a young boy. He continued running after completing high school, whilst staying with his brother. “He told me to keep running,” explains Rukadza, who left his home country in 2008 for a new life in South Africa. He currently lives near Gugulethu, in Cape Town, with his wife and young child.

“After arriving in Cape Town, I started working for a landscaping business in Tyger Valley. When I got that job, I mentioned to my boss that what I wanted most in life was to be able to keep running,” he recalls, adding that his employer understood and gave him the day off when there was a race. Meeting his sponsor, Tim Clifton, during the RCS Southern Cross (SOX) some five years ago, however, changed everything. “Tim gave me the opportunity to become a professional athlete, which has been my dream,” he says.

The rest is history, as they say. Over the past few years, Rukadza managed to rack up victory upon victory, from becoming the first runner ever to score a hat-trick during the 2012 Cape Winter Trail Series Championships, a sequence of three positive feats in a row, to winning the 2015 inaugural Old Mutual Two Oceans Beast Trail Run. Whilst Rukadza was working on his professional trail running career, Calitz – born and raised in Stellenbosch – was doing the same. The two often found themselves at the start of the same trail races. The 2013 AfricanX Trailrun was no exception.

“Bernie was always super fast, and he has a beautiful running style. After that race, I decided that I wanted to run with Bernie the following year,” Calitz remembers. He reckoned the two of them could do very well together – not despite

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BERNARD RUKADZA IN A NUTSHELL

but because of their differences.

“Bernie is tall and lanky, and I am more strongly built. He is made for speed, I am made for endurance. His skill is to run fast, my skill is to run uphill. We couldn’t be more different, but it works well during our trail races. That is because we play to each other’s strengths and weaknesses.”

In 2013, the pair teamed up and after three gruelling days encompassing 89km,

Born in: Nyanga, Zimbabwe, 1981 Big solo wins and records: 2015 Old Mutual Two Oceans Beast Trail Run, 2015 & 2016 Jonkershoek Mountain Challenge, the 2014 Richtersveld Run (record all-males, 13:30:36 hours), West Coast Marathon (half marathon record holder for men at 1:06 hour), 2015 Marloth Mountain Challenge (7:22:38), and 2012 Cape Winter Trail Series Championships (first runner to secure a hat-trick, an achievement of three positive feats in a row).

Race fuel: I need something in my stomach, but not a lot. I like bananas or toast with honey. After the race, I eat a bit more. During trail races, I eat Racefood, who are one of my sponsors.

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AJ C AL IT Z AN D BERN ARD RUKADZA AJ CALITZ IN A NUTSHELL Born in: Stellenbosch, 1983 Big solo wins and records: Fish River Canyon Ultra (2016), Red Bull Lion Heart (2014), Platteklip Charity Challenge (fastest and the record for most ascents, 11), 2012 Three Peaks Challenge (he took 17 minutes off the record he set in the previous year, completing the race in 4:50:21 hours), Otter African Trail Run (he came second in 4:29:19).

Race fuel: I eat eggs before a race, and I like a Bos Ice tea after I cross the finish. I usually don’t hang around for too long after finishing. Family time is important.

team Contego K-Way crossed the 2014 AfricanX finish in a combined time of 6 hours 32 minutes and 4 seconds. Other team wins followed suit, including the 2015 edition of AfricanX, the 2014 SOX between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay and last year’s Marloth Trail in Swellendam.

Besides winning the above-mentioned races, which helped both runners strengthen their respective running

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careers, the collaboration resulted in a strong friendship, built on mutual respect.

“When I picked up Bernie for our first team race in 2014, I didn’t know him that well. However, when you do events like these, you become good friends,” Calitz says, explaining that Rukadza and himself have more in common than meets the eye.

“We share the same personal values and we both love running on the

mountains. Bernie is such a classy runner.

He loves his family, the outdoors, and the mountains, and he loves to push us to the limit. We have all of that in common, despite our different backgrounds. We come from different cultures and different spheres of society. However, in terms of the things that really matter, we are very, very similar. We even have the same sponsors, including New Balance and Racefood.

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AJ C AL IT Z A N D B E RN A RD RU KADZ A FAVOURITE RACES ›W hilst Rukadza has fond memories of most of his races, AfricanX stands out.

“I have done it over four times. I love that race. The nature, the vibe, the people – everything is amazing.

Whilst I also run on tar, I prefer trail.

On trail, things are always different. Tar is the same every time.” ›C alitz loves the Otter African Trail Run. “It is probably one of the most extraordinary races. The route is incredibly beautiful, and we don’t get access to it easily. I have done this one three times. The Verdon Canyon Challenge in France is also a great race. It is 100km long and goes around Lake Verdon. The Fish River Canyon race is amazing too.”

Running, in my opinion, is the great equaliser.”

But there is more that connects both runners, besides their passion for running and nature: their love for their families. “My family members are my biggest supporters. They are always there for me,” Rukadza says. “My son is three years old. I took him to this year’s Two Oceans Marathon fun run and the nappy run. I took him there, and he did run.”

Like Rukadza, Calitz is also exposing his daughter, who is two years old, to sports and the outdoors. “I am a trail runner but I am also a dad. Taking my daughter to races

and up the mountain is more important to me than any race result. I try to spend as much time on the mountain with her (as possible). Over weekends, I will take her hiking, for instance. I put her in a backpack, which is good exercise for me. Being a good dad and cultivating a love for sports and running in her is very important.”

Having been able to turn their passion for running into their livelihoods, Rukadza and Calitz have some solid advice for anyone who wants to do the same: “Running is not a one-day job. You need to look at your goals,” Rukadza says. A big heart and a strong mindset are crucial ingredients too. “You also need to be focused, and discipline is essential.”

Calitz adds that passion is important, whether it is a passion for running or for something else. “The more you do something, the more you will like it, and the more you like something, the more you will want to do it and the better you will get at it,” he says, noting that rejection should be the fuel to achieve your goals. “I applied for a couple of teams that I didn’t get in. In the words of Dory from Finding Nemo: ‘Just keep swimming.’”

Rukadza agrees. “Don’t give up. Be positive, no matter what. I came a long way to be where I am today. I had to overcome many, many challenges. If you are prepared to do that, you can achieve whatever you want.”

TRAIL RUNNING BUCKET LISTS › RUKADZA: “I would love to run races overseas. Besides South Africa, I have only run in Namibia, the Richtersveld Wildrun in 2014.”

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› CALITZ: “I am training for a race in Austria, the Dolomite run, and at the end of the year I am looking to do the Cederberg Traverse.”

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AN G US BE G G

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AN GUS BEG G

Cresting

wave HIS OWN

Tristan Roberts has ridden some pretty extreme waves in his young life, and always comes down on the other side, so to speak. Angus Begg caught up with this highly talented bodyboarder, with a wonderful career ahead of him

Photographs by Josh Tabone and Angus Begg

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“W

hat are the waves looking like out Muizenberg way? I ask the voice on the other end of the line.

Camps Bay, Llandudno?

“Not good...maybe we just do the interview, and we send you some archive shots?”

Tristan Roberts is placed around number eight in the world bodyboarding rankings, and is a very approachable young dude.

That is judging from his email message to me when hearing that I’d like to interview him. We quickly graduated to Whatsapp, and as he would be coming from his home in Hermanus, 90 minutes out of Cape Town, we arranged to meet for a chat the next day, and hopefully a shoot as well.

His reply reflects the mind of a rising sportsman who is part of a well-oiled public relations exercise, sustained by a combination of words and action shots.

I explain my reluctance to rely on stock material, as we will need images that refer more directly to our interview, like me understanding who he is, what he’s about – “normal stuff” like that which, hopefully, captures the essence of our chat.

When we talk the next morning he says he’s left Hermanus, and staying at his girlfriend’s place in Melkbosstrand, so we agree to meet at Lagoon beach in Milnerton.

The beach is a 20 minute drive from where he won the SA Bodyboarding Champs at Big Bay. Both of us have to look it up on Google maps, where we find it behind a cluster of new office blocks and hotels, close to the harbour, with Table Mountain framed behind.

A couple of lonely freighters are at anchor in the bay, and cranes that hoist containers from eight to five loom large like sentinels at the city’s gates. It’s a work day, with not many people about.

At 30 degrees plus, it’s the hottest day since summer, on this the second day of

spring. Towel wrapped around waist, Tristan strips down into his wetsuit on the boardwalk bordering the beach while I ask him what, apart from the fact that a bodyboarder lies on his board rather than stands, distinguishes the sport from surfing.

“On a bodyboard you can ride more extreme waves, like when a wave is too

steep for surfers, often dropping on a reef... we can ride those. We can get deeper in a barrel on a bodyboard”.

Sporting the ubiquitous bronzed beach look that comes with endless days spent toes-in-the sand and riding salty water, Tristan says while the combination of fun and sun is naturally alluring, the “intensity

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AN GUS BEG G

(of bodyboarding) is addictive...the feeling of winning”. And he’s done lots of that, like taking the U15 and Men’s Pro title at the SA National Bodyboarding champs in 2012 as a 16 year-old.

Today, at 20, he is the ISA Men’s World Champ, as well as the ASB Pro Junior World Champ and finished 8th on the Men’s tour

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last year, out of 100.

“You need so much to happen for you when competing”, says Tristan, which who has come such a long way from his start as a seven year-old on the beaches around his hometown of Hermanus. He says the local Onrus community of boarders gave him the push he needed.

“It was over busy summer holidays when the beaches were packed and my brother and his friends were in the water all day. I finally found the courage to take a

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board and join them, and they were pushing me into waves in the shallows.

Once I actually rode one they were clapping and cheering . That moment is what lit the fire inside me and made me want to ride waves every time I got the chance to do so.”

He says it wasn’t about competing, but riding waves for what he calls “pure happiness.”

“There was and still is no better feeling to me than riding good waves with your friends and having everyone smiling and shouting out of pure happiness. Even the thought of this inspires me to get back out there.”

But with the happiness came a healthy dose of fear.

“Of course I was once scared, everyone will be. But soon you realise you can push limits so much more than you once thought.”

Which, he says, can be problematic, as any veteran pro would agree.

“This confidence we gain is sometimes what gets us into trouble, because you just want to ride bigger and better waves and soon you find yourself in a situation which could be life-threatening. But so we learn and we continue to push ourselves for bigger and better waves,” he says.

As demanding as riding the water became, so too did his life. An understanding school head, in what seems to have been a relationship of mutual

respect, allowed him the time off to gain the experience to win titles. “I won my junior world title while at school and left school for a month to compete overseas,” he says, yet he nevertheless met his work requirements, and still became head boy.

And just as he “found” the waves with his brothers, so the theme continued in the support he received from his mother.

“Simply Because she knew it was the best for me and my career with regards to the community and the quality beaches for me to train at, she would constantly drive up and down in the week but make sure she was home to be the supportive mother she was. She waited it out for me to qualify for the world tour after matriculating so that she could finally move down to Cape Town (from Hermanus,” he recalls.

On a sadder note, Tristan explains that his dad passed away some time back, “and, as an athlete, losing your father is tough. But my siblings and mother have been my biggest support crew, and I’m forever so grateful.”

Fast-forwarding to the present, this support has taken him to waves around the world.

After a couple of years travelling the globe as a pro-bodyboarder, Tristan is now settled on his favourite waves. “Tand (‘teeth), a reef break at Tittiesbaai, near Paternoster – now that’s a wave surfers

can’t do. It’s too steep and they haven’t the time to turn,” he says.

He also speaks about El Fonton, in the Canary Islands, and as I write he’s competing in Portugal. Wherever he is, it’s a long way from Hermanus. And he’s only 20.

Sociologists tell us that less than one percent of the population are happy in their chosen occupation. Boston Breweries, proud brewers of Naked Mexican craft beer, are stoked to say that they have found a brand ambassador who is not only ecstatic about his choice of lifestyle, he is also extremely successful at what he does.

When asked why he enjoys representing Naked Mexican Craft Beer, Tristan doesn’t miss a beat. “I will only support brands I believe in; Boston Breweries is a trendsetting company that is passionate about quality. Their open and supportive approach to marketing appeals to me; they are full of energy, and celebrate winning. My kind of guys!”

And as an accompaniment to sea food – nothing better!

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IN THE HEART OF THE

mighty Amazon Laurianne Claase explores Otorongo Lodge and surrounds, in the heart of the Amazon, with night walks, boat rides, bush braais, fishing and even upclose encounters with Amazon River dolphins all thrown into the mix

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L AURIAN N E C L A A SE

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luggish ceiling fans stir the sticky heat. A picture of Jesus jostles for wall space with tortoise heads and turtle shells, a caiman skin, a puma’s pelt and mounted head.

River turtle and alligator are on the menu. Outside, the tree-lined Malecón pulses with pedestrians, while the Itaya River meanders through the fecund floodplains below. The ubiquitous tuk-tuks are a muted roar. The Amazon River once flowed past here, slowly clawing back its banks from the swelling city, prompting human intervention to divert its destructive course a few kilometres away.

Iquitos is Peru’s northernmost city. With half-a-million inhabitants, Peru’s sixth most populous city is also the largest city in the world inaccessible by road. Other than flying, the only other way to get here is by boat. This frontier town is the gateway to the Upper Amazon River.

Peru is home to 16% of the Amazon biome. Amazon. The word alone conjures up images of hidden tribes and impenetrable jungle, flesh-eating fish, man-eating snakes and things that go

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bump in the night. The reality, however, would prove to be somewhat more prosaic – if no less exotic.

Our destination was Otorongo Lodge, 87 kilometres and a two-and-a-half-hour speedboat ride from Iquitos, on the Rio Oran, one of a thousand main tributaries.

The rustic 12-bed eco-lodge is at the start of the main branch of the Amazon River where the two largest tributaries – the Marañón and the Ucayali – empty themselves into the longest river in the world.

It was the beginning of November and the end of the low season. There is no wet or dry season in the rainforest. It is a matter of degree. Nor is there much of a difference in temperature. It’s hot. However, when the snow begins to melt in the Andes at the end of November, the floods come. The river can rise by as much as 4 metres by the time high-water season peaks in June, opening up the primary forest to canoes.

In the low season, however, one can walk in the rainforest, and fishing is at its best.

Each season has its unique attractions.

Otorongo’s greatest appeal, despite solar-powered electricity, three meals a day, a steady supply of yucca biscuits and no shortage of cold beer, is having your own personal guide.

Christian Silva, our English-speaking

guide, grew up in Nazaria village, across the river from the lodge. His uncle and grandfather were shamans. He recalled how his grandfather would serve the family anaconda for lunch.

Christopher, our local guide, was from the neighbouring village of Oran. They accompanied us on day and night walks, boat rides and bush braais, fishing and birding excursions and a visit to Christian’s cousins in his home village across the water.

In Peru, the protected areas of primary forest begin a kilometre inland from the riverbank. Remnants of the cloud-scrapers

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Rice paddy on an island in the Amazon River THIS PAGE: Communal living area, Otorongo Lodge OPPOSITE PAGE: Rusting riverboat at Iquitos, with the Itaya River in the background

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Seasonally flooded forests make arboreal adaptations a necessity, giving rise to tree frogs and treenesting termites, tree-climbing porcupines, anteaters with prehensile tails and cork-headed ants, which flatten their heads to use as parachutes should they fall from the tree canopy where they make their home. remain. Two species of ancient kapok trees are a boat ride and short walk from the lodge. Felled to use as plywood and veneer, some of these towering trees were spared the fate of the mahoganies, whose lofty crowns were identified by loggers flying over the canopy. The Peruvian mahoganies are all but gone now but the kapok trees remain, sacred to the Mayans of Mexico and the local indigenous tribe, the Yaguas, whose young women camp at the kapok tree upon their first menstruation.

Everything in the forest seems to have a story and a use. There’s the justice tree, which is protected by fire ants that feed on the flowers. They crop the grass around the tree to prevent herbivores from grazing,

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thus protecting themselves from competition. The ants’ fiery sting made them the punishment of choice of the early-20th-century rubber barons who would use them on indigenous labourers.

The riverbanks are a patchwork of secondary forest and cultivated clearings.

Along the river’s edge, in the short growing season before the floodwaters come, villagers plant yucca, bananas and pineapples and use the shifting islands as rice paddies.

Crowing roosters vie with the chatter of parrots and the call of the monkey-hunting crane hawk. In high-water season, the chickens are berthed on floating platforms and the pigs are moved to dry ground, to

which the terrestrial animals of the forest also retreat. Local hunters keep the location of these patches of terra firma a closely guarded secret, so as to profit from the knowledge come the killing season.

Seasonally flooded forests make arboreal adaptations a necessity, giving rise to tree frogs and tree-nesting termites, tree-climbing porcupines, anteaters with prehensile tails and cork-headed ants, which flatten their heads to use as parachutes should they fall from the tree canopy where they make their home. The pygmy marmoset lives in these trees.

Weighing in at just 120-150g when fully grown, it is the smallest monkey in the world. An adult pink-toed tarantula at its

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TOP: Sunset on the Amazon River LEFT TO RIGHT: Pink toe tarantula; Orange-winged parrot, Otorongo Lodge; Nararia villagers BOTTOM: Rainforest near Otorongo Lodge

full 25cm stretch is as big.

Over 200 tree species per hectare have been recorded in parts of the Upper Amazon. The river boasts 2 500 marine animals, including turtles and 27 species of catfish. In the area around the lodge there are 17 species of palm alone; 2 species of sloth – one of which can swim – who feed from 60 kinds of trees. But the star attraction on this stretch of the river is the Amazon River dolphin.

Pink dolphins are actually freshwater whales as they have a hump, not a dorsal fin. When the males get excited the capillaries pump more blood, causing the distinctive pink colour. About a thousand make their home here and are reliably seen during the low season. Local legend has it that the dolphins were once Vikings, saved from a watery death by the god of the river after the chief’s daughter fell in love with one of them. Thus the dolphins are not hunted and women don’t swim in this part of the river lest they fall pregnant. Curious creatures, they emerged when Christian

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tapped on the side of the boat with a paddle, affording us tantalising glimpses of their sleek, silvery shapes.

We trekked to Ladybug Lake, which is flooded in the high season, to flush hoatzin birds out of the palms. These prehistoric living fossils, whose 13 million-year-oldbones have been found in Europe, are not good flyers. To compensate, they emit foul-smelling pheromones to deter predators. When nervous, their grey eye masks turn blue.

Night on the river is an unforgettable experience. The waters boil with fish. They land in the boat, in your lap and on your head. The air thrums with fishing bats scooping up the minnows that teem on the surface. Nocturnal birds hunt the insects that swarm in clouds above the water and the chorus of frogs from the floating waterweed is deafening. We got up close and personal with the triangle bark tree frog, the pygmy hatched-faced frog and the schizophrenic polka-dot tree frog, which changes its colour from day to night.

In the high season, you can go by boat to Ladybug Lake. In the low season, we could only go so far before running aground. The indigenous Brazilian Tupi tribe believed that the Amazon River was formed from the moon’s tears after her doomed love affair with the sun. As we turned back, the new moon flashed a thin-lipped smile low in the sky. And the river rolled by…

GETTING THERE AND AWAY Several two-hour-long flights depart from Lima to Iquitos daily.

The three-day, two-night ferry to Iquitos departs from Yurimaguas.

If you want to move on from Peru, catch the fast boat from Iquitos at 6am for the 8-hour journey to the border with Colombia and Brazil.

Contact: www.otorongoexpeditions.com

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GRAH AM H OWE

How(e) TO MOUNT A CAMEL Graham Howe teaches us what we have all always wanted to know – how to mount a camel, out in the great Outback

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T

here’s only one way to mount a camel. Before allowing us to saddle up, Adrian, one of the skilled Ozzie cameleers who take tourists out on camel safaris around Uluru (Ayer’s Rock) gave us a practical demonstration. Pay attention at the back!

He warns us never, ever to swing a leg wildly over the saddle and risk kicking the camel from behind in the face. This makes the camel furious - and causes it to instinctively bite the camel in front, setting off a chain reaction all the way along the camel train. It’s the way to start a riot. These Afghan camels are mighty proud beasts and don’t take an insult lightly.

And always first mount the rear perch of these double-saddled camels. It’s a question of balance. Two people can ride one camel in a double saddle - or just one in the rear saddle if you’re a heavy rider, like me. Once you’re settled, you have to hang on really tight when the camel suddenly rises from a low folded-up paw position to their full height - in a sudden two-step backwards/forwards movement.

Otherwise you risk either ignominiously sliding down the long neck of the camel or falling off the rear.

All aboard! My, it’s a long way down to the ground. Some of the regular biters in the camel “string” (a line of camels) were

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already in disgrace and muzzled. Hugo, the overly affectionate camel immediately behind me, who would spit, fart, belch, chew the cud and nuzzle my shorts throughout the ride, flashed me a full row of large, crooked, un-muzzled teeth. I knew who he’d bite if anyone kicked him. Me! “Good cowgirls keep their calves together,” quips Brady Nunce, our very own cowgirl - or camel girl - who accompanied us on foot through the brush, telling us stories about camel behaviour. She jokes: “How much does Uluru weigh? One stone!”

We found out that all the camels are bulls, castrated on capture to cure male aggression - except for “One-Nut Louie” who miraculously escaped the cut, twice.

“Are these one or two hump camels?” I ask. (A dromedary is a one-humped Arabian thoroughbred camel). “They aren’t getting any humps at all,” she replies, quick as a flash.

It turns out that most camels have one hump - except for Asian Bactrian camels. These hardy beasts can go for days without water - living off the fat stored in their humps.

Once they got past the morning grumbles, the camels seemed to enjoy

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their daily walkies. My camel, Archer, the biggest bull on the farm - ignores the incredible desert landscape and enjoys a good chew on the sheep-skin padding. A jealous Hugo pads alongside, fluttering his giant eye lashes and rubbing himself amorously against my bare knees. I was glad the camel called Randy was riding further upfront.

A camel ride high in the saddle is an awesome way to see the Outback. Padding silently along a track through the red sands, white spinifex and green woolly butt grasses, we can see the mystical rock of the red centre rising from the plains in the distance. Australia was conquered by the original Afghan camel trains, which took the early explorers, pioneers and supplies across the width and breadth of this vast continent - delivering rail sleepers, mail, wool and grain to remote outposts. Over 700 000 of the feral descendants of these beasts of burden roam the interior today.

As our guide tells us: “This is an incredibly ancient landscape. Some of these sand dunes have been here for 30 000 years. This is known as Anangu land -

belonging to the aboriginal people of the western desert. The traditional land owners of Uluru - the Pitjanjatjara people - have lived here forever. They trace their roots back to the creation, or dream time, known as tjukurpa, when ancestral beings created the world.”

Uluru Camel Tours, the largest camel farm in Australia, is home to sixty working

PREVIOUS SPREAD: The Outback on Camelback: These hardy beasts of burden conquered the interior of Australia in the nineteenth century.

THIS PAGE: Camel Safari to Uluru: A ride to Ayers Rock, the mythical heart of the red centre of Australia.

OPPOSITE PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): Red Aura: The trail to the ancient aboriginal rock art at the Mutitjulu waterhole at Uluru (Ayer’s rock); Changing Colour: The weathered iron oxides and minerals exude an unearthly red glow at sunrise and sunset; Graham Howe (centre) rides again: in the saddle of Archer, the biggest bull at Uluru Camel tours; Big Reds: The largest (two metres tall) and fastest (60 kilometres per hour) on the hop which can leap eight metres in a hop.

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GRAH AM H OWE

camels known as the rock stars of Uluru.

Each camel has its own customised, handmade saddle at the farm saddlery engraved with names like Archer, Trigger, Lazy, Dazy, Dozy, Murphy, Stumpy, Ned Kelly, Darcy, Randy and Spinifex. Up to seven thousand spectators attend the annual Uluru Camel Cup held at the camel race track here - and gamble on the camel sweepstakes. These 400 kilogram beasts can hit forty to sixty kilometres in short bursts. I wouldn’t want to be in the saddle at speed.

A fascinating museum depicts the 160 year history of the intrepid explorers on camel-back who opened up the Outback in the 1800s. Old Tom’s Waterhole is a tin shack bush bar with funny Outback road signs pointing to places like Denial Bay, old stock crossing signs and warnings like “Beware of flying beer bottles” and “Winchester shotgun shells sold here”! The camel farm is straight out of the Wild West - with its replica bright-red Cobb & Co royal mail stage coach, wind pumps and “Wanted: dead or alive” posters. The cute camel calf is a big hit - so not all the bulls are eunuchs.

Getting to the heart of the red centre by

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land on “the track” which links Adelaide and Darwin to Uluru is one of the world’s great road and rail-trips on the Ghan railway named after the early camel route from north to south. The first time I came to Uluru in the red centre was via road in 1993 when my wife and I backpacked around Australia on a year-long trip. This time I flew directly from Sydney into the new Ayers Rock Resort airport, enjoying spectacular aerial views of Uluru on the way.

These days you can see Uluru, one of the top ten tourist attractions in Australia, by helicopter, scenic flights, skydive, segway, bicycle, Harley Davidson, bus, on foot - or by camel. Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park (a vast 1325 square kilometre area) - was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1987 - as a place of outstanding natural beauty and as a living cultural landscape. One of the most sacred places in aboriginal culture, this 348 metre high rock (as high as the Eiffel Tower) is an incredible sight at sunrise and sunset. The weathered iron oxides and minerals exude an unearthly red glow.

While staying at Sails in the Desert, the

luxury hotel at Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, I experienced a wonderful activity called Desert Awakenings. We made a pre-dawn start in the desert cold, climbed a sand dune to see sunrise - and enjoyed a warming Aussie bush breakfast of billy tea, damper (bread baked in a fire) with golden syrup, bacon and eggs. We also did a few of the short trails around the base of Uluru and deep into a canyon to see the ancient aboriginal rock art at the Mutitjulu waterhole.

All of the caves and canyons come alive with aboriginal creation, lore and legend.

The Anangu rangers, the traditional owners, tell magical stories about the creation of Uluru by ancestral beings as they journeyed across the landscape. Every cave and fissure reveal the remnants of epic battles between kuniya (the python woman), liru (the snake man), mala (rufous-hare wallaby) and lungkata (the blue-tongued lizard man).

Formed 500 million years ago, Uluru has a mystical, spiritual energy. Visitors fall instantly under the spell of this ancient place, and this vast monolith has so many different faces. The light changes its aura

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Bush Bar: A watering hole for a frosty in the shade of a tin shack; Graham Howe (centre) with a troupe of aboriginal dancers at Ayers Rock Resort.

constantly. Coming across it at a distance, it seems like an apparition in the desert. The closer you get, the more detail it takes on from the flaky red skin, ribs and ridges - and its honeycombed, wave-shaped caves.

Uluru slowly comes alive with the light, like a face dimpled with scars, gashes, hollows and pits, potholes and pools - the result of water, mineral and wind erosion.

Walking around its base, it takes on so many shapes and colours.

The desert is full of life, with weird and wonderful creatures like the thorny lizard with its sharp spines, the perentie (the second largest lizard in the world) and the mulga snake - a very venomous viper. I liked the dingoes, the spinifex hopping mouse and the red kangaroo, the largest (two metres tall) and fastest, which hits 60 kilometres per hour and can leap eight metres in a hop. Talk about marvellous magical marsupials!

The shape of the park’s new cultural centre represents Kuniya, the python woman and Liru, the poisonous snake man whose battle led to the creation of Uluru.

The traditional custodians of Uluru ask visitors not to climb the sacred rock for cultural, safety and environmental reasons.

Few visitors do these days - and it will be closed to climbers by 2020. Climbing the steep, slippery slopes via chains is dangerous – to date, 35 visitors have fallen to their deaths or died of heart attacks while on the climb.

Most tourists respect the cultural wishes of the Anangu. The climb is often closed because of high winds, or if it is too hot or too wet. The aboriginal guides say they mourn for the families of the victims

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whose souls cannot rest. They have put up polite signs asking visitors to respect the rock - and not to photograph sensitive sites where aboriginal women and children are still initiated into the rites of birth and procreation. Some call climbers “minga” (ants) - as they resemble a column of tiny ants on the rock.

The main base walk around Uluru is almost eleven kilometres on the full circuit, which takes around four hours to complete, with a variety of shorter walks to the main sites also available. Anangu rangers offer free guided walks - and all sites have in-depth signs explaining the cultural significance and geological origins of the landscape. The two big rocks are made from different types of stone - Uluru from sedimentary sandstone rock; Kata Tjuta (meaning “many heads” - the 36 purple domes) from conglomerate rock.

The steep, rocky trail through the Valley of the Winds offers breathtaking views.

At dinner under the stars atop Tali Wiru (meaning “beautiful dune”) overlooking Uluru at sunset, we listen to the evocative sounds of the didgeridoo played by Tyler Baira, a master player. We tuck into what is known as “bush tucker”, feasting on smoked kangaroo, crocodile and desert lime salad, and pressed wallaby with fermented quandong (a wild desert peach). Many of the dishes are garnished with traditional herbs, leaves and berries harvested in the desert. Afterwards, we take an outback sky journey with an amateur astronomer who points out aboriginal landmarks in the southern sky like the manta ray and the possum (what we call the Southern Cross).

Ayers Rock Resort - an entire village in the desert - is operated by Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia under the Indigenous Land Corporation. The design of this complex of hotels, self-catering apartments, campsites, restaurants, shops, museum, galleries, bush gardens and theatre, is earthy and environmentally friendly. A major employer of aboriginal people in Australia, it offers a wide range of authentic indigenous experiences to tourists, with many interactive workshops.

Set outside the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park - managed by its traditional Anangu custodians in collaboration with Parks Australia - it is a global model for indigenous tourism.

The annual Uluru “Feastival” - a celebration of indigenous food and culture at Ayers Rock Resort - is one of many tourist drawcards. Renowned aboriginal chef Mark Olive, the king of traditional bush tucker, prepares delicacies like native thyme-braised kangaroo with paperbark smoked parsnip, smoked wallaby with wattleseed crumble and emu prosciutto with saltbush. One of the most unusual dishes is desert lime cake garnished with peppery green dried ants - and witchety grubs. The bush tucker journey dinners are a unique Australian experience. Many of the dishes are based on traditional wild foods, fish and meat foraged from the land.

Graham Howe attended the Australia Tourism Exchange 2017 as a guest of Tourism Australia and Voyages Ayers Rock Resort. See www.australia.com, www.voyages.com.au and www.ayersrockresort.com.au

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S IM O N C AP S T IC K-DA LE

gold

A FRIENDSHIP TURNED TO

Siseko and Piers are two athletes from vastly different worlds, who were brought together – against all odds – by their determination to win gold in the 2014 Dusi Canoe Marathon. The team’s inspiring story of courage, friendship and perseverance was made into a feature film, Beyond the River, which screened in South African cinemas last April.

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“I

want to be an inspiration and motivate people to get whatever it is that they want. As soon as people realise that nothing is impossible if you work hard enough, they can be set free from their circumstances and succeed.”

These are the rousing words of 2014 Dusi gold medallist Siseko Ntondini, who, together with partner Piers Cruickshanks, went after what he wanted most and overcame adversity.

In 2013, Piers, an English teacher at Kingsmead College, had his mind set on completing his 15th Dusi and earning a 10th gold medal. At the age of 39, he was already considerably older than most of the top competitors and aware that time might be running out. Piers had a terrible race that year: After irreparably damaging his canoe halfway through the final day, he carried his wreckage for four hours on foot, finally arriving at the finish as the sun set over Blue Lagoon in Durban.

Twenty-two-year-old Siseko Ntondini – the only competitor left waiting to greet him – proposed to a disheartened Piers

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that they partner up for the 2014 Dusi.

Piers knew Siseko as a promising young paddler who rowed at the Soweto Canoe and Recreation Club (SCARC), with which he was involved.

The biggest event of its kind in Africa, each year the Dusi sees up to 2000 paddlers traverse KwaZulu-Natal’s east coast between Durban and Pietermaritzburg. Over three days, racing pairs have to negotiate rocky rivers, weirs and rapids along the unmarked 120km route – and the onus is on paddlers to take safe lines down some extremely demanding sections.

Portages through thick bush on undulating terrain require competitors to run, boat-on-shoulder, from one river section to the next. Teams continually need to think strategically about whether to paddle or run certain sections – going on foot, though, is gruelling too, but can avoid boat-capsizing rapids and circumvent long loops in the river.

“The Dusi is a rough-and-tough event about as far from a manicured lawn as you can get. It’s a real African experience – there are plenty of rocks, bushes and mud

to contend with,” says Piers.

Aside from the physical and emotional exertion of a three-day canoe race such as the Dusi, Piers says what many people may not realise is the incredible focus and concentration it demands of competitors.

“During the race, you’re constantly having to make short and long-term decisions. As the event wears on, fatigue makes it harder to concentrate. You’re only

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Siseko and Piers skilfully negotiate a precipitous weir near the start of the 2014 Dusi THIS PAGE: Siseko leads the gold-winning team through a grueling rapid OPPOSITE PAGE: From left to right: Piers Cruickshanks and Siseko Ntondini alongside actors Lemogang Tsipa (Duma) and Grant Swanby (Steve), who play the athletes in the Beyond the River movie

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THE THREE RACE STAGES OF THE DUSI

Success in life should never be determined by where you live or how much money you have – we can all overcome our situation once we put our minds to it. racing for a few hours each day, but the psychological burden of the stage-race hangs over you for three full days.”

Once Piers had made peace with his 2013 disappointment, he began to more seriously consider Siseko’s proposal to partner with him – and they began training soon after Piers decided to give the less experienced young man a chance.

Teaming up with someone from such conflicting socio-economic circumstances came with its own unique set of challenges for both athletes.

“I believe our toughest obstacle was the language barrier between us. Although Siseko’s English is good, when we were both exhausted in training sessions, it could became difficult.”

For the first couple of weeks that the ambitious pair trained together, Siseko was

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residing in an informal settlement, where he faced the same challenges faced by many South Africans who live without the basic necessities which many others take for granted. Thankfully, SCARC arranged alternative accommodation, which made their intense training schedule far easier to co-ordinate.

The significant divide of age, race, experience and socio-economic situation between Siseko and Piers did not discourage the two athletes from competing in the Dusi as a team and they learned a great deal from one another though the experience.

“Our differences and where we came from were irrelevant to our success – it only mattered that we both wanted to win gold,” says Siseko.

Siseko says it was a privilege and

Stage 1 (42km): The first stage takes paddlers from Camps Drift in Pietermaritzburg to Dusi Bridge, a remote area outside Cato Ridge close to Nagle dam.

Stage 2 (46km): From Dusi Bridge to Msinsi Resort outside Hillcrest, this is the longest and hardest section of the race, which ends with 11km of flat water on the Inanda Dam. Stage 3 (36km): Starting with 4km of flatwater on Inanda Dam, paddlers make their way to Blue Lagoon in Durban. The final stage ends with 10km of flatwater on the tidal estuary to the finish.

honour to partner with an accomplished athlete such as Piers, with many years of experience and knowledge to share.

“Although it wasn’t my first Dusi, Piers taught me how better to prepare for every aspect of the race.”

But the team’s socio-economic differences meant that compromise was an integral part of the learning process.

Siseko would occasionally arrive late for their training sessions, and Piers would be at Emmarentia Dam, in Johannesburg, waiting for his younger partner and getting annoyed when Siseko wouldn’t arrive on time.

“But then I realised that Siseko had got out of bed at least an hour before me,

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SIMON C A P S T I CK - D A LE BEYOND THE RIVER – THE MOVIE Beyond the River is a film written and directed by Craig Freimond and produced by Robbie Thorpe, Harriet Gavshon and Ronnie Apteker. In association with Heartlines, Quizzical Pictures and the National Lotteries Commission, the inspirational story is about two courageous men – and the triumph of the human spirit. The script has been adapted into two books; Confluence, which tells the heroic story from the perspective of Piers Cruickshanks, and a condensed version of the film script in the form of a children’s book.

SOWETO CANOE AND RECREATION CLUB The Soweto Canoe and Recreation Club (SCARC) is a social development initiative founded in 2003 by AdReach CEO Brad Fisher.

The organisation aims to uplift impoverished Soweto communities through sport, mentorship and developing crucial life skills in young adults. The Club’s shadow employment programme leverages the skills of its member companies to improve the chances of these individuals making a success of themselves.

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taken two taxis and jogged the last stretch with a paddle under his arm to get there,” says Piers.

At first, it wasn’t all plain sailing in the water either. The natural order in canoeing is for the more experienced paddler to sit at the front and steer the boat. The leader’s role also requires him to make tactical decisions and choose which line to take on the river.

It was an unprecedented decision that transformed the team from complete no-hopers into a well-oiled machine working in unison: “When I was up front in the boat the two of us didn’t combine well at all. Siseko then suggested that we swop positions and, when I agreed – rather reluctantly – to take the rear, everything

just fell into place!” says Piers.

Piers explains how this revelation was a turning-point for the team both logistically and psychologically as, despite his age and experience, he was left with no choice but to put complete faith in his junior.

In the build-up to the 2014 Dusi Siseko developed a stress fracture in his fibula and was forced to undergo rehabilitation. While Siseko exercised on the anti-gravity treadmill at Morningside Sports Clinic as part of their training regime, Piers ran the streets of the suburb.

“Doctor Jonathan Patricios was kind enough to give Siseko consultations, treatment and use of their equipment all free of charge,” says Piers.

Siseko recovered just in time for the race but his injury meant they had already missed most of the qualifying races and their poor seeding jeopardised their chances of winning a gold medal.

On Day 1 of the big race, the pair lost about five minutes to the field when Siseko broke a paddle and they fell way back to 57th position. But with sheer grit and determination the two made a miraculous comeback to finish in 7th place and win the gold medal they had both worked so hard towards.

Reflecting on their success and the subsequent making of Beyond the River, a film based on their uniquely South African story, Siseko says: “Success in life should never be determined by where you live or how much money you have – we can all overcome our situation once we put our minds to it.”

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SA R AH KIN G D O M

A VOLCANO CALLED

Réunion

S ARAH KIN GD OM

I The “hotspot” (literally) that is Réunion Island is a little piece of France with many sides to it – from fascinating culture to a rich history, an array of gastronomical delights and, of course, enchanting scenery. Sarah Kingdom took in some of its many attractions

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t was dark when our plane descended through the clouds and landed on Réunion Island.

It was slightly disconcerting arriving after dark. I couldn’t see the beaches, the mountains or anything that looked remotely tropical.

Instead, aside from the humidity, I could very well have arrived in Europe which, technically, I had. Réunion is a tiny little piece of France in the Indian Ocean!

I somehow made my way through immigration, customs, bag collection and finding my taxi, all without speaking a word of English. My taxi driver’s English language repertoire consisted of two words and they were “no alcohol”, as he blew in to the breath testing device affixed to the taxi’s ignition system. Having established he was sober, we set off, for what was to me, destination unknown.

Réunion Island is what geophysicists refer to as a “hotspot”; basically the island is part of a gigantic volcano rising out of the ocean floor. The Réunion hotspot is believed to have been active for over 66 million years and about 3 million years ago, the accumulation of lava rose above sea level and Réunion Island was “born”.

There are many sides to Réunion Island… culture, history and gastronomy, as well as some truly spectacular scenery.

As I had come to the island specifically for the outdoor side of life, the many other facets would have to wait for another visit.

Possibly the most daunting experience of my whole Réunion visit was collecting my hire car on day one! Unaccustomed to driving on the “wrong” side of the road and in the “wrong” side of the car, I was quite nervous as I took temporary possession of the little white Peugeot that was supposed to get me around for the next few days. I have a bit of a “reputation” with my family for “certain aspects” of my driving skills, and whilst I think these are either totally unfounded or vastly exaggerated, I was still quite apprehensive when it came to getting behind the wheel. Usually it takes me at least a week to get used to a new car – to stop switching on the windscreen wipers every time I want the indicators, for instance, – so mastering changing gears with the “wrong” hand and remembering which way to enter all the roundabouts

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really had my heart rate elevated.

First on the agenda the next morning, after consuming copious quantities of delicious pastries for breakfast, was Réunion XTERRA ’17. This is what I had come to write about. Over 500 athletes (11 pro athletes, including 6 from South Africa) from all over the world were taking part in this epic race. My first day on the island coincided with their last minute training and preparations for the “main event” the next day. I got to sample the course and meet up with the athletes.

For the uninitiated, XTERRA races are an extreme form of triathlon, conceived in the US in 1996, with events all over the world, though Réunion Island is surely one of the most picturesque locations for an XTERRA on the planet.

Those who may think the relatively tame sounding distances of a 1.5km swim, 30km mountain bike and 10km trail run are like a “walk in the park”, are very much mistaken!

The XTERRA ’17 course would include a swim in the crystal clear waters of Saline les Bains (Trou d’eau) lagoon; a lagoon so full of fish and coral that it was like swimming in an aquarium (I even saw a sea snake while I was trying out the course).

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Pounding along the ridgeline, I feel the privilege of running in this majestic environment surrounded by lofty peaks. “The world’s most scenic race” is living up to its billing.

Following the swim, things would really heat up with the mountain bike course combining single track, dirt road and a highly technical section that finished down the famous Ravine Tabac. The race would then culminate in a run that would be a challenging mix of boulder hopping, a waist-deep river crossing, a dash through the forest and a steep climb up the volcanic hills before ending with a run along the beach to the finish line.

Race day dawned with a 6am start down at the beach. I was introduced to a jovial Reunionais guy who had been roped in to chauffeur me around the various vantage points of the race on the back of

his scooter. Hair pin bends, combined with high speed driving was certainly an exhilarating way to see the island!

Starting down at the beach we saw the race begin with the swim, before dashing off to three different points along the cycle leg, the athletes looking progressively bruised, battered and in many cases blood-smeared as the race went on. Finally we watched a section of the run where it intersected with the steepest downhill portion of the cycle race, before scooting off back down to the beach in time to witness the exhausted athletes staggering across the finish line, with Ruben Ruzafa from Spain and Carina Wasle of Austria the winners of the male and female

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S ARAH KIN GD OM

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT: Approaching the volcano across the Plaine des Sables Right: TOP: Piton de la Fournaise, usually just referred to as 'le Volcan', errupting; BOTTOM: Aerial view of Piton de la Fournaise which translates to 'the Peak of the Furnace OPPOSITE PAGE: Trekking inside the volcanic amphitheatre that is the Cirque de Mafate THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: South Africa's Vicky van der Merwe on the mountain bike; Fellow South African, Adriann Myburgh, on the trail run; Spain's Ruben Ruzafa, winner of Xterra Reunion '17, in the swim leg of the race

titles respectively.

Having watched all the activity the day before, I woke the next morning feeling motivated to get out and get active myself.

A trip to a volcano was on the agenda.

Piton de la Fournaise, at 530 000 years old, is one of the most active and productive volcanoes in the world. Its name basically translates from French into “The Peak of the Furnace” and it is known locally as “le Volcan” (The Volcano). The volcano is one of Réunion Island’s most popular tourist attractions, with about 400 000 people visiting it each year, though many of those visitors merely drive to the rim of the crater and gaze at the peak in the distance.

Despite its sulphurous and active reputation, Piton de la Fournaise is pretty accessible to all. Clearly, though, the fitter and more surefooted you are, the more of an up-close and personal experience you are going to get. If you have the time, you can climb it from head to toe, starting from the waves lapping at its base in the Indian Ocean, and ultimately reaching the summit, which is often shrouded in the clouds.

It was the Easter weekend and there were tourists of all ages, shapes, sizes and nationalities who had come to marvel at

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the volcano – Parisians tiptoeing around puddles in such bright white trainers I wondered how they would keep them clean; parents with small children in tow, who kept asking “are we there yet”; serious trekkers with the walking sticks to prove it; and even a collection of trendy teens with their “surround sound” music system blaring. We left most of these tourists behind at the viewing point. Only the more intrepid ventured down the five hundred or so steps of the outer crater (Enclos Foucque) to the caldera floor.

A seemingly endless lava plateau surrounded the central crater (Dolomieu), which loomed 350m above the caldera floor some distance away. As far as the eye could see were kilometers of black and oxidized lava, forming amazing shapes and giving the landscape an extraterrestrial, frozen-in-time look.

Once we reached the external crater floor we had two options; to the right was the shortest and steepest route to the top, which would take us directly to the summit”, Crater Bory. To the left was the less strenuous, but longer and far more popular route to the top. My local Reunionese guide, Nico, informed me that

the left route could take about five hours, “longer if you talk a lot!” and as I do talk, a LOT, we opted for the shorter, steeper approach to the right. The path had mostly been obliterated by eruptions the previous year, so we were charting a new route.

Scrambling over the razor sharp and brittle lava, we made it to the top in pretty fast time and had the luxury of the place to ourselves. Sitting on the lip of the crater with our feet dangling over the abyss, we could just make out the people who had used the “slow” left route, 1km away, on the other side of the 300m deep crater. Sheer cliffs fell away to the still smoldering crater below and steam rose through vents in the earth, rising up to meet the clouds that tumbled down over the crater rim from above.

We sat for at least an hour, silently marveling at the dramatic, barren landscape and thinking of the raw power of the volcano that had created this entire island. I had seen photos of “le Volcon”, but nothing had prepared me for the reality of this other-worldly experience. Finally we hiked back through the massive, barren landscape, over frozen waves of solidified lava and crushed volcanic rocks. I realised how apt the name “furnace” was for this

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LEFT: Piton de la Fournaise errupting RIGHT: The author sitting on the rim of the volcano's inner crater

volcano that had produced the landscape of melted rocks and glass that surrounded us in every direction.

Sunset at the black volcanic sand beach of Etang-Salé on the way back to the hotel was a fitting end to a “volcanic” day.

Whilst Réunion is certainly a place to enjoy a relaxing beach holiday, a huge part of the island’s appeal is found high above sea level, inside the towering volcanic calderas left behind by the island’s violent volcanic history. Piton de Neiges, or “snow peak”, pre dates Piton de la Fournaise. Now deeply eroded and inactive for the last 20 000 years, it is surrounded by three massive crater valleys, or cirques, Mafate, Cilaos and Salazie. In 2010, UNESCO designated these cirques as part of a World Heritage site and they offer amazing hiking opportunities and between them have more than 1 000 kilometers of hiking trails.

Having spent the day before with an active volcano, when the next day dawned we headed away from the beach and into the island’s interior, for a day of hiking inside the extinct volcano. Cirque de Mafate, our hiking destination, was formed when the magna chamber of Piton de Neiges collapsed. The entire 10 000 hectares is surrounded by unbelievably sheer cliffs and dotted with colourful tin roofed houses in tiny Creole villages called îlets, a local Creole word meaning “islands of greenery”, as the villages perch on the few and far between “islands” of flattish land.

The name “Mafate” comes from the Malagasy word “Mahafaty”, which means “lethal” or “the one who kills “, and is a reference to the difficulty of actually getting into the Cirque. The first settlers arrived in the 18th Century and were escaped slaves who hid in this inaccessible location. Later came impoverished French farmers whose plantations had failed following the abolition of slavery. For generations, these settlers and their descendants were all but

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cut off from the outside world.

Almost all of Mafate’s roughly 800 current residents are descendants of these original settlers. There is no electricity or water grid in the entire valley. Doctors, police officers, teachers etc, if or when needed, either have to hike in or be brought in by helicopter and the same goes for the residents’ supplies. You could spend days or weeks hiking the network of trails, while camping out or staying with local villagers in mountain gites” (small cabins); but we were time challenged, so our only option was a day hike down into Mafate.

The hiking trails of Mafate are definitely not for those suffering from vertigo and shouldn’t be hiked alone. Fortunately my guide, Nico, was with me again and he not only knew the way, but conveniently carried a backpack of snacks! We descended through the gathering clouds and headed off into the wilderness. The amphitheatreshaped valley is accessible from half a dozen trail heads, which lead to the network of narrow hiking trails that connect the hamlets. We planned a steep, sharp decent to Roche Plate, which was somewhere far below us, tucked out of sight.

The sun slipped in and out from behind the clouds, and the temperature alternated from pleasantly cool to hot and humid. We were overtaken by a group of young, highly enthusiastic, rucksack laden hikers who quite literally ran down the mountainside.

We were only intending a day hike and had no intention of emulating their frightening, breakneck speed, so we moved over to let them race past.

On our descent we rounded a bend and quite literally bumped into a couple of the South African XTERRA athletes; they had clearly recovered sufficiently from the race to tackle a hike in Mafate. As we descended further we met red faced, breathless hikers making their ascent back up the rugged, steep valley walls.

We had planned to eat at one of the local “gites” when we reached Roche Plate, but the view was just too good to contemplate eating indoors. Stopping at a vantage point just above the village we ate the traditional sweet potato cakes and pain au chocolat Nico had carried down. The view was mesmerising and we spent an hour contemplating the vast expanse of green volcanic crater in front of us. Finally dragging ourselves away, we made the steep ascent back the way we had come, fortunately arriving at the top a lot less red faced than the trekkers we had seen in the morning!

The cirque was surrounded by clouds and rain was beginning to fall when we got back to the car. We set off back down to the coast, in the hopes of some sunshine, stopping en route for a traditional Reunionais lunch… a delicious prawn curry accompanied by rougail (a rather spicy mix of onion, chili and garlic).

We finished off our lunch with some rhum arrange, several varieties of which the patron happily foisted on us. Rhum arrange is a rather strong local rum infused with flavours like citrus, pineapple, orchid, vanilla, coffee or ginger; after sampling a few I decided my favourite was lychee.

Apart from being rather delicious the rum is pretty strong … perhaps it was fortunate that Nico was driving!

Leaving rhum and rain behind, we reached Trou d’eau lagoon just in time for sunset and a final swim in the warm, clear water. A perfect end to a perfect day, and a perfect stay on Reunion.

Sarah Kingdom's trip to Reunion was arranged by The Reunion Tourism Board.

Their website has a great deal of helpful information about the many aspects of this destination. www.reunion.fr/en Xterra Reunion is a sporting event to add to your calendar www.xterrareunion.com

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BONNE D E B O D

BO N N E DE BOD

BonnÉ de Bod’s

rhino mission Wildlife television presenter Bonné de Bod has a love and passion for rhinos, which she refers to very aptly as “beasts of a bygone era” – and she is determined to save them from extinction

A

s everyone knows, the world’s rhinos are in trouble, and Bonné de Bod is on a quest to find out why – and what is being done to save these magnificent beasts.

Ten years ago De Bod changed her life to follow her childhood passion and left a successful career as a model to find and tell stories on wildlife in Africa.

Many know De Bod from her seven seasons as a 50/50 presenter on SABC2, where she informed viewers about pressing environmental issues, winning a number of awards along the way, including the 2015 SANParks Kudu Award for Best Journalist, 2015 SANParks Kudu Award for Best Programme - the Rhino Blog series – and 2016 ATKV Media-veertjie Award for Best Educational Programme.

Now, focusing on her passion for rhinos, De Bod is heavily involved in the highly anticipated, forthcoming documentary film STROOP, and currently appears in her Rhino Blog, broadcast daily on People’s Weather (DStv 180). She’s also SABC’s special correspondent reporting on any breaking news involving rhinos and can be seen monthly on DStv Channel 404, with rhino updates, as well as on kykNET (DStv channel 144) with Grootplaas on Die Groot Ontbyt. She can also be heard on Groot FM, Radio Today and RSG.

competing between the different hostels, and I loved it! I became very involved with theatre and, while I was performing in a production, I was scouted by a modeling agency who offered me a contract in Cape Town. So after completing my studies I packed my bags and started my modeling career. I also studied drama, so my days were very full. Being a model was a lifestyle so completely different to the one I had grown up in. I had always considered myself a bit of a tomboy and a real nature lover. So walking down catwalks in tight fitting dresses and five-inch heels was a strange world for me, but I stayed in it for three years. By that time I had finished my drama course and I started landing parts in soapies such as Villa Rosa, Egoli and 7de Laan. I enjoyed playing characters but it was at this time that I started to realise that if I wanted to be on TV, I wanted to be myself. I was offered a modeling contract with a very prestigious agency in London and, at the same time, I was also offered the field presenting role on SABC 2’s environmental show 50/50. For me it really was a no-brainer! I had spent my childhood watching 50/50 every Sunday night and couldn’t believe that I would possibly be on the show. So I turned London down and over the next decade I spent seven wonderful seasons on 50/50, and I have never looked back!

Tell us a bit about your background?

BdB: After finishing school I studied BCom Industrial Psychology at the University of Pretoria. While at Tukkies, part of hostel life was doing stage productions and

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Have you always been passionate about wildlife?

BdB: Yes, and I owe it to my grandparents.

My best memories are of my grandparents

taking me and my sisters on trips to the Kruger National Park. We would go twice a year during school holidays, and it became my most favourite place on earth and, needless to say, it still is. Besides the fact that I was introduced to all the big and small creatures by very passionate wildlife lovers, it was the famous “animal sounds” tape being played in the car that really stuck with me. By the end of each visit I would know the tape so well that there was no need for it as I could recite it out loud. We were treated to my oupa’s extensive knowledge – from animals to trees. Stopping, talking and observing… my passion and love for the natural world was born then, and, you know, even now when I come back from a shoot in the Kruger, my oupa will grill me on what I saw and l pull out his Kruger maps wanting to know exactly what roads I was on and how the park is looking.

Why the fascination with rhinos?

BdB: They are beautiful. They are iconic.

They are beasts of a bygone era. When you look at a rhino, you immediately see that defining feature, its horn. And yet as we know, this distinctive and unique feature is what humans kill them for. And there is just something so special about seeing that massive animal out in the bush. I spent a lot of time with my parents and grandparents in Kruger, and what always stuck out for me was the reverence they had whenever they saw a wild rhino. In China, India and Vietnam, the places where they are gone from, they are viewed as very spiritual animals where the horn

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BONNE D E B O D

Bonne meets HRH Prince Harry during a recent rhino conservation trip in Kwa-Zulu Natal

private rhino owners. We follow the journey of little orphans who have lost their mothers to poaching and the rehabilitators who try everything to get them back into the wild. We look at the controversial topic of legal trade in rhino horn and then we take the viewer to the dark underground backrooms of Vietnamese and Chinese smugglers and directly to the rhino horn users. We are making this film so that no one can say they didn’t know. We are now busy with the editing of the film as well as some last minute shooting we have to do but we have to finish it later this year for an early 2018 release.

Tell us about Rhino Blog points to heaven and provides a link from earth to the spiritual realm. I get asked all the time why we must save them, and I always say that we, as humans, have a moral responsibility to protect them, to protect all living species; it is simply the right thing to do. And something desperately needs to change or we will lose our wild rhinos. I’ve had many ups and downs over the last three years investigating this world of greed. The most difficult part is witnessing what we, as humans, are capable of. I’ve attended the scenes of many murdered rhino; I’ve seen rhinos still alive with half hacked off faces…what unbelievable pain. It shocks you to your core to see that, to witness that. The cruelty is totally beyond anything I can think up. Pure evil and human greed.

And I do sometimes wonder when, if ever, we will defeat it. Seeing a little orphan calf crying while standing next to his mother’s dead carcass is probably the worst scene I’ve had to witness in this poaching war.

How did the documentary film STROOP come about?

BdB: It was during a 50/50 story I did on the rhino poaching crisis when I realised that I needed to do something more. We were filming a story in the Kruger and we were taken to a double carcass. When we got to the crime scene, Susan Scott, the producer, told me to sit in between these two carcasses and deliver my lines to camera. At that moment I was confronted with so many emotions and questions…

How can humanity be so unbelievably

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cruel? And how can we as South Africans allow this? It was then that I knew that I had to do something to slow the slaughter and the eradication of this beautiful animal. That’s where the idea for a documentary feature film on the rhino poaching crisis was born. An independent film with no censorship or broadcast sensitivities, a publicly owned film where we can show all the aspects surrounding this very complex situation. STROOP was initially a six month project, but I think when director Susan Scott and I started filming we had no idea just how many layers the rhino situation really has. So, three years later, quitting our jobs, selling our homes, cashing in our investments and moving in with our mothers… well, it has certainly become a passion project!

Tell us more about the film itself.

BdB: STROOP is an in-depth look at the world of rhino poaching and everything in between. From the battlegrounds in the Kruger National Park and Hluluwe iMfolozi in Kwa-Zulu Natal, the two hardest hit areas in South Africa, where we have been given unprecedented access to the rangers, forensic teams and crime scenes, to the dingy court rooms in the bush towns bordering Kruger as well as the high courts of Pretoria and Kempton Park, where we follow the work of state prosecutors working against well-paid defence teams inside a justice system that is slow at the best of times. We follow the police on busts and spend time with

BdB: Something we realised while filming STROOP was that so many aspects of the rhino poaching crisis are security sensitive or must remain classified because it involves organised crime. So while filming, Susan and I recognised that we were seeing so many aspects of the rhino poaching crisis that wouldn’t necessarily be put into the film and decided to make an accompanying TV series that highlights the positive work being done on the ground. Each episode is a positive, uplifting look at a hero on the front lines of the rhino war. From the rangers in our national and provincial parks, to the use of the latest technology to fight this war, to our courts, where the state prosecutors are battling to get the criminals behind bars, to the little rhino orphans who have lost their mothers and how orphanages are handling this flood of babies into their facilities, to the forensic investigations of crime scenes ... we even cover the work being done by sportsmen like Mark Boucher and Kevin Pietersen and high profile names like Prince Harry and world conservation icons like Dr Jane Goodall and Dr Ian Player. There are people who deeply care and have given up their lives of safety and comfort to save our rhinos. These are the true heroes in this crisis, and showing their work is what Rhino Blog is about.

Go to: Facebook: @BonnedeBodOfficial Twitter: @Bonne_de_Bod Instagram: @bonnedebod

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Seychelles...

the call of the islands

SeeSeychellesSA SeeSeychellesSA seychellestourismsa

www.seychelles.travel

MAT T HE W H O LT

longest THE

DAY

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M AT T H EW H OLT

Matthew Holt revisits the scene of one of the most famous events in military history, the D-Day landings of June 1944 – and accepts the gruelling challenge of a 70km commemorative run Photographs by Matthew Holt and Fiona McIntosh

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D

arkness gave way to a squally dawn and brooding sky.

Facing a 70km cross-country run along the Normandy coast, I felt a pang of angst in my bowels.

Then again, 73 years earlier, I’d have been facing far worse.

Fiona and I had rashly signed up for the D-Day Challenge, a 44 mile (70 km) run to commemorate the Allied landings on 6th June, 1944, precipitating Europe’s liberation from Nazi Germany in the Second World War. Originally the brainchild of armysurgeon Lt-Col Mike McErlain – who died of a heart attack while running it in 2013 – the event has been resuscitated by David Fox-Pitt, a Scottish adventurer with an officer’s bearing and gung-ho glint.

At the previous day’s briefing, we found his command centre in a state of flux. With the weather forecast predicting an incoming tempest, there were even suggestions to shorten the route. This was just like the real thing, with storms forcing the Allies to postpone D-Day from 5th to 6th June, despite concern that news of the invasion would leak. Fortunately, some concerted web-trawling procured a more propitious forecast and we decided to proceed.

Mission back on, David jabbed with his trekking pole at a large map, duct-taped to the wall. Our objective was to set off from Pointe du Hoc and hug the coast, traversing four of the five Allied landing beaches (respectively codenamed Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword), before cutting inland up the Caen Canal to Pegasus Bridge. “Keep the sea on your left and you should be alright,” advised David, “but we’ll issue radios just in case.”

While the Allied Supreme Commander, “Ike” Eisenhower, mobilised 126 000 troops for his invasion, our event was less heavily manned, with a mere dozen of us planning to complete the entire route. And whereas the Allied soldiers were supported by a range of specially-designed floating and

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flame-throwing tanks known as “Donald Ducks” and “Hobart’s Funnies”, we had a car carrying provisions to meet us at preagreed spots. “We’ve got cheese and port,” announced David. “Does anybody want anything else?” He looked quite bemused when someone suggested energy bars and gels.

The next morning, pre-dawn, we headed to Pointe du Hoc, a rocky promontory which in 1944 housed a formidable German gun battery. The task of neutralising it on D-Day was assigned to 225 US Army Rangers, who landed on the small beach below and scaled the 30m-high cliffs using grappling irons, ladders and knives. Successfully seizing the battery, they then spent two days fighting off German counter attacks, out of ammunition, using captured weapons and losing over half their men in the process.

Just to rub salt into their wounds, when a relief force finally arrived, it mistook them for Germans and shot four more of them dead.

Our arrival was less daunting, however, and we drove up to the battery

unopposed. Before starting out, we were addressed by the granddaughter of the confrontational American WW2 general, George Patton, who believed himself a reincarnation of a Roman warrior. As we shivered in the breeze, Helen Patton read out the prayer composed by an army chaplain on Patton’s command, requesting God to hold off the rain while the Americans crushed the Nazis. She diplomatically ignored his famous pre-D-Day address, considered one of the most stirring motivational speeches ever, if also one of the filthiest.

PREVIOUS SPREADCLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Heading towards Arromanches; On Sword Beach; The American memorial on Omaha Beach; Fighting through the fields above Omaha THIS PAGE: On the way to Gold Beach OPPOSITE PAGE: The British war cemetery at Tilly-sur-Seulles

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M AT T H EW H OLT

Those who made it to the sea wall were driven relentlessly on by their commanding officers, Norman Cota and Charles ‘Hatchet Face’ Canham (who beforehand had told his men two-thirds of them would die), till they’d cleared the German defenders from the bluff and secured the beachhead.

Then, at 06h40, somewhat after the designated H-Hour, we tentatively set off along the cliff top, with a stiff southwesterly helpfully blowing from our rear.

Our first wave was eight-strong, comprising those who’d rashly claimed to be runners; while our reinforcements consisted of four hikers, led by David, who were planning to march the entire

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route. It was the German commander, Field Marshal Erwin Rommel who predicted D-Day would prove to be “the longest day” - though ironically, having sneaked home to attend his wife’s birthday, he spent it frantically driving across France to man the barricades.

An hour later, we dropped down onto Omaha Beach. On our right, grassy dunes

reared up to a bluff from where German guns had commanded the bay. On our left, the incoming tide lapped at the base of a stainless steel memorial to the American soldiers who had the misfortune to land here.

Dispatched 16km offshore in small landing crafts, they endured an hour’s journey through heavy seas, which had most of them retching and sank 27 of the 29 tanks dispatched on inflatables.

Beaching on a sandbar, they then had to wade through chest-deep water, raked by machine gun fire, sheltering behind anti-landing obstacles. Those who made it to the sea wall were driven relentlessly on by their commanding officers, Norman Cota and Charles “Hatchet Face” Canham (who beforehand had told his men two-thirds of them would die), till they’d cleared the German defenders from the bluff and secured the beachhead. If it sounds like a Boy’s Own adventure, watch the opening scenes of “Saving Private Ryan”.

I would have turned around and swum back across the Channel for England.

Climbing up from Omaha, we were confronted with chest-high stinging nettles, slippery mud-chutes and minefields of cowpats. Lacking Bangalore torpedoes to clear them, we relied instead on a couple of trekking poles, plus the indefatigable Max Carnegie, a 21-year-old Scot training for the Royal Marines.

Seemingly impervious to cold, mud and nettle-rash – in a T-shirt and shorts – he assisted each of us through the barbed wire fences, before dashing back up front.

We were all quite shocked when he later pulled out with a fractured foot.

Notwithstanding meticulous planning, the Allied soldiers were told to expect confusion on the day – and we encountered much the same. At the first two planned rendezvous spots, our support vehicle was nowhere to be seen and our radios elicited only crackles.

Fittingly, it was at Port-en-Bessin, where the Allies landed a fuel pipeline from England, that we finally encountered our catering corps, though it still seemed quite early for stilton and port.

Well before Arromanches, we could see the famous Mulberry Harbour, with heavy waves slapping against the concrete

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ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT: Jogging into Arromanches, Being piped over the the finishing line at Pegasus Bridge

breakwaters positioned offshore.

Prefabricated and towed over from England, construction of the floating harbour started on D-Day afternoon and was completed within a week, allowing some 2 ½ million troops to be landed over the next three months. There was a memorial service being held in town and the streets were crowded with uniformed soldiers and war buffs in ill-fitting khaki costumes. The few actual veterans were easy to spot: bedecked in medals, frail but erect, with glinting, rheumy eyes.

Another unwelcome climb took us over to Juno Beach, where we padded along the drying sand, with the tide in retreat.

We were appreciating first-hand the scale of the Normandy landings and ruing Field Marshal Montgomery’s decision to expand the area of attack from three to five beaches.

By the time we reached the promenade running from Lion-sur-Mer towards Ouistreham, the sun was shining and the wind had dropped, tempting out holidaymakers. It was hard to imagine the beach pinging with bullets and erupting with shells, the only clues being the monuments dotted intermittently along the front. By now, historical curiosity had given way to sore feet and I just inspected those directly obstructing my path, but one which did was a bronze statue of a soldier in a swirling kilt, playing the bagpipes.

On D-Day, British commandos landed on Sword Beach, led by the dashing, if dangerously eccentric Lord Lovat, who favoured a deer-stalking rifle, was nicknamed “Mad Bastard” and ordered his personal bagpiper, Bill Millin, to march up and down the beach piping the troops ashore, under enemy fire. Captured German snipers said they hadn’t targeted Millin because they presumed he’d gone mad.

At Ouistreham, Fiona and I turned inland on a towpath beside the Caen Canal. It was

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now a hobble, not a run, but we were cheered by the sight of several runners on the opposite bank, who’d taken a wrong turn, plus a Meccano-like bridge ahead.

Our finishing line, Pegasus Bridge, was where D-Day kicked-off, when six wooden gliders containing 168 men from Sixth Airborne Division deliberately crash-landed here at 00h16. Tasked with seizing and holding two small, but essential, bridges, they quickly over-powered the unprepared German guards, but then faced increasingly determined counter attacks from tanks, gunboats and scuba divers. In the early afternoon, to the wail of Millin’s bagpipes, they were gratefully relieved by Lord Lovat’s commandos, who – ignoring warnings – brazenly marched across the bridge in their green berets, losing a dozen men shot through the head.

At 7.30pm, making an easy target for any snipers, Fiona and I limped across Pegasus Bridge, serenaded by our own piper, Max’s father, Jocelyn. Though we weren’t the first in, we’d made it – and that was what counted on D-Day. There was a small café on the canal bank, which in 1944 was owned by Georges and Theresa Gondrée, who supplied coffee and schnapps to the occupying soldiers and information on German troop movements to the French Resistance. On becoming the first French family to be liberated on D-Day, they promptly dug up 98 champagne bottles they’d hidden in their garden and, while the fighting was still going on, served it to the Allied soldiers (who sensibly ignored warnings that local drinks might be poisoned). Now run by the Gondrée’s daughter and a pilgrimage site for D-Day enthusiasts, I hobbled into the bar, half-hoping to be kissed by a pretty French barmaid and offered free champagne. After a lengthy wait, a grumpy battle-axe served me expensive beers in plastic cups, with Gallic disdain.

Before catching the ferry back to

Portsmouth, we took a taxi out to Tilly-sur-Seulles, 40km inland, amidst gently swaying wheat fields. Though the D-Day landings had succeeded, the going thereafter got far harder, as the Germans committed more experienced troops to the front. Whereas the Allies suffered some 10 000 casualties on D-Day itself, this rose to 220 000 in the next three months.

It was only in May 1945 that Germany finally surrendered.

Alighting at the British war cemetery at Tilly, we were confronted by over 1 200 almost-identical, white marble headstones in neat, orderly rows. With the taxi meter clicking expensively over, we stumbled through the graves with an increasing sense of panic, till we eventually found one belonging to Private Les Jones. Having been evacuated from Dunkirk in 1940, my great-uncle Les fought in North Africa and Sicily, snatching a few moments between campaigns to marry great-auntie Barbara and conceive cousin Leslie. Just over a month after he’d landed at Gold Beach on D-Day, she received a long handwritten letter from him, requesting cigarettes and a comb, plus a typed War Office note informing her of his death. He’d been killed on 7th July, aged 29, never having seen his son. It put my sore knee and blisters into perspective.

DO IT The D-Day 44 Challenge takes place on 6th June and is organised by WildFox Events. www.wildfoxevents.co.uk.

The focal point for the event is Pegasus Bridge near Ouistreham.

You can get here by ferry from Portsmouth (England) or by train/ bus from Paris.

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T R AVEL G E A R

sun and

fun in the outdoors The days are finally getting warmer, and South Africans are rousing from our annual slumber and getting back into the Great Outdoors. With Summer almost upon us, it is time for everyone to lose that extra winter weight and hit the trail runs, hikes, mountain bikes and get fit once again, whilst enjoying the natural beauty of our beautiful country. Cape Union Mart has your covered in all these arenas and is your one-stop destination store for all your needs. Better still, if you shop online, you’ll enjoy free delivery – nationwide!

So get out there and enjoy the life of adventure Compiled by Sonwabo Macingwana

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T RAVEL GEA R

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T R AVEL G E A R R1 599

R899

HI-TEC MEN’S TORTOLA ESCAPE SHOES

Hi-Tec’s Tortola Escape Shoe with its superior V-Lite technology and ergonomic design moulds to your foot for the most perfect and comfortable fit. It’s perfect for long walks on the beach, in the park or just enjoying the summer sun. This combination sandal/ shoe has a high performance upper for support, durability and performance coupled with an easy to use toggle to create the perfect customised fit. The removable footbed adds to the ultimate comfort while the MDT outsole ensures you have great grip whether you are at the beach or in the park.

KEEN MEN’S NEWPORT H2 SANDAL The Newport H2’s hybrid shoe/sandal design is more comfortable than a full shoe and protects your foot better than a sandal. The unique anatomical outsole gives superb traction and support on sea and land, and an antibacterial footbed controls moisture and makes sure your feet stay dry and fresh for longer.

R499 K-WAY MEN’S CRUISER SANDAL The K-Way Cruiser sandal provides comfort and functionality with fully adjustable upper straps as well as a heel strap for the perfect fit. Ideal for watersports and everyday use, the Cruiser sandal is the perfect sandal for the warmer days.

K-WAY TALUS FLOPPY HAT

R299

The K-Way Explorer Talus Floppy is a wide brimmed that features a towling sweat band and an adjustable chin strap.

Made from quick dry, wickable nylon and adjustable chin strap.

R499 K-WAY WOMEN’S EXHALE SANDAL The K-Way Women’s Exhale Sandal is a durable, every day wear sandal designed with comfort and grip as its main priority.

K-WAY EXPLORER SHIRT ADDO Packing light takes on the true meaning of the phrase when you pack in the K-Way Explorer Addo l/s shirt.

Weighing just over one hundred and sixty-five grams, you are going to appreciate the reduced weight of your baggage. Quick drying fabrication is designed to keep you dry and cool. The shirt provides excellent sun protection with the long sleeve option and a UV Block of 40 plus. If you demand wrinkle resistance and easy maintenance, the travel shirt hangs out to dry overnight and the few temporary wrinkles you may have in the morning soften when worn.

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COLEMAN 50QT EXTREME COOLER

R550

The Coleman 50QT Extreme Cooler is the guy you want to take along the next time you head out camping. Ideal for long road trips, going camping or even just a day trip to the beach, the Coleman 50QT Extreme Cooler, with its 47L capacity, will keep your goodies perfectly cold for up to five days on ice.

R1 799

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T RAVEL GEA R K-WAY ALPINE COWL SLEEPING BAG

R899

The Alpine Cowl is a three season bag, it does its best work when the temperature drops. It features a contoured hood for even better heat insulation; and the cowl helps to keep your neck and head warm and raise your overall body temperature. The insulation will work in even the coldest conditions, but if you find that you are getting too hot, you can open the full-length YKK zipper at both ends as it has a double slider. This means you can control just how much ventilation you need. It weighs 1.8kg, has a hard-wearing, abrasion resistant Ripstop Nylon outer and a moisture-wicking Microfibre Polyester inner with an internal accessories pocket.

R160 (L) R120 (S)

LED LENSER SEO HEADLAMP The LED Lenser SEO 5 is especially great for performance oriented outdoor enthusiasts, featuring a 180-lumen output that covers about 120 m. Lightweight and comfortable, the headlamp features a stageless dimming function and a dim memory that will revert the lamp to the last dimming setting used after switching it off.

R650

K-WAY EVO GEAR BAG This K-Way Evo ‘12 Gearbag is an awesome carry-all to store anything you might need on a weekend away. With a volume of 35 litres, K-way’s Evo small gearbag is certainly a must have.

R140 (M)

K-WAY PACKAGING CELLS The K-Way packing cells are perfect for keeping dirty clothes separate from clean ones and keeps clothes organized when travelling. They are made from a durable 190D Ripstop Polyester material and are available in 3 different sizes, Small (24x17x8cm), Medium (29x21x8cm) and Large (36x26x8cm).

R550 (S)

R699 (XL)

R599 (M)

R650 (L)

GOPRO HERO 5 BLACK HERO5 Black is the most powerful and easy-to-use GoPro ever, thanks to its 4K video, voice control, one-button simplicity, touch display and waterproof design. Smooth stabilized video, crystal-clear audio and pro-quality photo capture combine with GPS to make HERO5 Black simply the best GoPro. And when it’s time to edit and share, HERO5 Black automatically uploadsfootage to your GoPro Plus cloud account to provide easy access on your phone. Then, you can create amazing videos automatically with Quik, the GoPro editing app.

R7 999

R1 899

RED-E RS40 POWER BANK

R199 K-WAY INSULATED WATER BOTTLE The K-Way 24oz insulated waterbottle has a double wall, enveloped in a foil-type material that insulates its contents, keeping your water ice-cold.

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The Red-E RS40 LED Solar Powerbank is a high powered, portable power source with a 4000mAh capacity. It features a 1A/5V output, 1A/5V USB port (for recharging your powerbank) and solar output and can charge two devices simultaneously.

LEATHERMAN WAVE MULTITOOL

R399

*All prices in this feature were correct at the time of going to print.

The most popular full-size Leatherman tool is now better than ever. Larger knives, stronger pliers, longer wire cutters and all-locking blades make the new Wave an essential piece of equipment.

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SIMON C A P S T I CK - D A LE

nature

uncut On 23 May 2016, solo adventurer Gaven Sinclair was greeted by the ancient pyramids in Cairo, having cycled more than 10 038km unsupported from Cape Town. Now he’s at it again, this time on foot through five African countries – and again for a cause we should all get behind. Writes Simon Capstick-Dale

A

fter relocating from Johannesburg to Cape Town at the age of 30, Gaven – inspired by nature – came to realise that we all have within us an inherent desire to explore. In early 2014 the endurance athlete was frustrated, caught behind red tape while trying to found his sports-kit development NGO. The kick-start required for his first

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‘charity challenge’ came when he watched the documentary, Long Way Down starring Ewan McGregor, who motorcycles south from Scotland, through eighteen countries, to Cape Town.

With the groundwork for his first expedition complete by mid-2015, the then 42-year-old set his August departure date for a 13 000km Cape-to-Cairo

unsupported cycle in aid of Missing Children South Africa and the Red Cross Society’s Psychosocial Support Programme.

Gaven, 261 days after leaving the Mother City, arrived in the Egyptian capital of Cairo, where he reached the end of his epic journey.

It wasn’t long after completing his ride that plans were underway for a second

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S IM O N C AP S T IC K-DA LE

©Lindy Duffield

Gaven takes some time out of the saddle to enjoy a boat cruise on Lake St. Lucia, the largest estuarine lake in Southern Africa.

challenge – an African trail run of about 5 528km over an estimated 210 days. On 1 September 2017 Gaven left St. Lucia in KwaZulu-Natal, headed for Cape Town – and he’s certainly not taking any short cuts.

Gaven is running up South Africa’s east coast in a loop, through Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia, before his final stretch back down the west coast of South Africa, covering an average of

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40km each day.

While Gaven’s run is vastly different to his first adventure in terms of speed and distance covered, he will only have with him the essential lightweight gear he can squeeze into a backpack. As he was on his ride between Cape Town and Cairo, Gaven is heavily reliant for the success of his second expedition on the knowledge, guidance and kindness of people en route.

“On my ride there was a strong sense of Ubuntu. People of all kinds welcomed me into their homes, offering food and a place – not always a bed – to sleep. The kindness and support I received was positively overwhelming,” says Gaven.

From hotels and villas, to campsites, garages and rural villages, Gaven stayed in them all. Sometimes though, he explains how his only prerogative was to stay out of

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SIMON C A P S T I CK - D A LE

harm’s way. One night there was no option but to rest (he was too anxious to sleep) on the side of the highway, so he hid himself and his bike from passers-by under a shelter made from banana-tree leaves.

For Gaven, the most rewarding aspects of his 261 days spent in the saddle were the unique energy and cultures he discovered in each of the countries he visited, as well as the special bonds he made with people he met.

The terrain Gaven cycled between Cape Town and Cairo was as beautiful as it was diverse. One stretch he remembers particularly fondly was the Wild Coast, where he cycled on the beach for a week, crossing many river mouths and continually in a race against the tides.

The further north Gaven travelled into Africa, the more difficult, he says, the logistics of the trip became, and the ability to rely on support networks he was accustomed to in countries like South Africa and Mozambique.

“You can plan a trip like this all you like, but you still won’t know what to expect half of the time. There can be extreme weather like torrential rain, frustrating delays at border crossings, long unexpected detours – or you might even get ill and have to rest for a while.

Remember, Africa is often very underdeveloped.”

One of the most fundamental challenges Gaven faced on his ride was the anxiety and apprehension associated with bicycle travel, which, he says, is momentous on its own. He recalls

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nervously arriving at border posts, where volatile political relationships between countries meant he could never be certain of entry – or even of the specific visa requirements for each state.

Gaven was also unfortunate enough to contract Malaria in the Gorongosa district of Mozambique, which put him out of action for two weeks.

“But Africa is also as amusing as it can be frightening: You might arrive at a border, only to find a broken boom and not a soul in sight. Sometimes corrupt officials tried to extort more money than I had on me. You have to deal with so many variables daily and soon learn to expect the unexpected,” he says.

Another unexpected turn of events came at the Kenyan border of Ethiopia where Gaven was denied entry and forced – if not to give up on his expedition entirely – to take a 900km detour to Marsabit. From there, he rode west to Lake Turkana in the Rift Valley of northern Kenya, which is the world’s largest permanent desert lake.

“By this time I had run out of both food and water. I pitched my tent with a group of Turkana nomads who live in pockets along the lake. I was very grateful that they taught me how to dig for water. I was in proper survival mode and there was no communication between us aside from basic hand gestures. I nearly lost it completely there.”

Perhaps the most disappointing setback for Gaven was right near the end of his 10 038km journey when a group of

GAVEN SINCLAIR Between fund-raising expeditions Gaven works as a life coach, assisting mainly executives to achieve holistic wellness through health and wellness practices. His methodologies incorporate diet, nutrition, exercise, psychology and the integration of lifestyle habits with proven success.

men tried to attack him in the Sudanese town of Narus. He reported the incident to the police who, out of concern for his safety and possibly negative publicity, prohibited Gaven from cycling through South Sudan into Cairo the way he had originally planned.

Gaven was escorted in an armed vehicle back to Juba in South Sudan and told that his only option was to fly into Cairo. He was glad for the opportunity to at least ride a short section through the majestic city and humbled to receive the hero’s welcome he so much deserved upon his arrival. The 44-year-old can be sure of yet another warm reception at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront where he expects to complete his 5 528km African trail run in April 2018.

SMS MCSA to 41006 and donate R25 to Missing Children South Africa in support of Gaven’s run.

On social media you can follow Gaven every step of the way: Facebook: www.facebook.com/pg/gavenruns Instagram: gaven.sinclair73

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©Jacques Marais

Gaven runs along the western shore of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, a World Heritage Site where he traversed mountains, forests, wetlands and sand dunes.

CALVARY Latin word meaning “place of the skulls�

This is my craft ~ It represents honoring the animal after its dead, seeing the beauty in its remains and maintaining respect for the life that has been... and giving it "new life". Its also a reminder that we only live once.

My skulls will be appreciated by the interior decorator, hunter, collector and animal lover alike.

All my skulls are unique, because it is hand carved with the utmost love and care - not one design will be the same.

The complete finished product can be purchased or send me one of your skulls to be carved. It will get packaged and couriered to you anywhere in South Africa.

Please send an email if interested or contact me on my cellphone.

I trust that as an owner of one of my skulls, you will appreciate this ancient art of bone carving, as much as I did making it.

Artist: -Yolandi Diesel-

Email: calvaryskulls@gmail.com Cell: 072 665 7041 Facebook: Calvary Skulls Instagram: Calvary Skulls

Great White Sharks (Carcharodon charcharias) in the waters off the South Neptune Islands, Australia.

LIFE

THROUGH THE

In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer we showcase worldrenown photographer, Brian Skerry, specializing in marine wildlife and underwater environments.

LENS

L IFE T H RO UGH T H E L ENS

B

rian Skerry is a photojournalist specializing in marine wildlife and underwater environments.

Since 1998 he has been a contract photographer for National Geographic Magazine covering a wide range of subjects and stories. In 2014 he was one of five photographers named as a National Geographic Photography Fellow. In 2015 he was named a Nikon Ambassador and in June 2017 he was awarded the title of Rolex National Geographic Explorer of the Year.

For NGM, Brian has covered a wide range of stories, from the harp seal’s struggle to survive in frozen waters to the alarming decrease in the world’s fisheries to dolphin intelligence, all cover stories. During 2016 NGM published three consecutive feature stories by Brian about predatory sharks. His cover story in the February 2017 issue of NGM, focuses on protecting special underwater ecosystems in US waters. During his coverage for this story Brian produced the first images of a US President underwater. He is currently at work on his 28th story for NGM. Brian work has also been featured in publications such as Sports Illustrated, The New York Times, BBC Wildlife, Paris Match, GEO, The Washington Post, The Wall Street Journal, Smithsonian, Esquire, Audubon and Men’s Journal. He is the author of 10 books including the acclaimed monograph Ocean Soul. National Geographic Books released his latest book, entitled SHARK, in June 2017.

Brian is an 11-time award winner in the prestigious Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition. He has also been recognized with awards from Pictures of the Year International, Nature’s Best, Communication Arts and is the only photographer to win the coveted Peter Benchley Ward for Excellence in Media. In 2010 National Geographic magazine named one of Brian’s images among their 50 Greatest Photographs Of All Time and was awarded the 2016 National Geographic Photographer’s Photographer Award, an honor bestowed by his colleagues.

He has had solo photographer exhibits at Visa Pour l’Image in Perpignan, France as well as cities such as Geneva, Barcelona, Lisbon and Shanghai and at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. Brian frequently lectures on photography, exploration and conservation issues having presented at venues such as the United Nations General Assembly, The World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland, TED Talks, The National Press Club in Washington, DC, The Royal Geographical Society in London and the Sydney Opera House in Australia. He’s a frequent guest on television programs including NBC’s TODAY Show and CBS’s This Morning.

Brian is the Explorer-In-Residence and a Trustee at the New England Aquarium, a founding member of the International League of Conservation Photographers, Director of The New England Ocean Odyssey for The Conservation Law Foundation and a Fellow National of The Explorers Club. He also serves as a Marine Fellow with Conservation International, serves on the World Wildlife Fund’s National Council and the WWF’s Marine Leadership Council and on the Board of Directors of the Atlantic White Shark Conservancy.

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L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

Spotted Dolphins (Stenella frontal) socialize in the waters around Bimini in the Bahamas.

A Harp Seal pup makes its first swim in the icy waters of Canada’s Gulf of St. Lawrence

An adult Southern Right Whale, (Eubalaena australis) encounters a diver on the sandy sea bottom at a depth of 22-meters off the Auckland Islands, New Zealand (sub Antarctic islands)

L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

Sea Pens and Blue Cod underwater in New Zealand’s Fiordland region Thresher shark dead in gill net in Mexico’s Gulf of California

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At Tiger Beach in the Bahamas, tiger sharks have acclimated to the presence of humans (and know that many will have food for them) A Yellow Gobi makes its home inside an abandoned aluminum can on the volcanic sandy bottom on Suruga Bay, Osezaki, Japan. Izu Peninsula.

O UT AN D A B O U T

on the

wild side

Here’s the inside scoop on the outside world! We look at some of the astounding feats accomplished by intrepid explorers young and old; the latest developments and products; as well as events and causes in which you, The Intrepid Explorer reader, can become involved. So get out there and make the most of the outdoors!

Compiled by Robbie Stammers

THE ADVENTURE THE YEAR ARE HERE!

FILMS

OF

Attention all outdoor enthusiasts and adventure addicts: Be sure to book your seats for the eagerly anticipated annual Banff International Mountain Film Festival, taking place between 3 and 12 November 2017. Tickets will be on sale both from 1 October from the Ster-Kinekor website.

Cape Union Mart will be bringing the festival to South Africa for the twelfth year. Once again, audiences will get the chance to explore and experience some of the world’s most epic adventure locations - from Iceland’s frosty surf spots and Utah’s canyon country, to Siberia’s snowy slopes and the plains of Patagonia – all from the comfort (and safety) of their cinema seats.

The 11 films, which form part of the world tour, will be shown at Ster Kinekor cinema’s in Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth and Pretoria. Featuring the best mountain films and exceptional filmmaking talent from around the globe, the festival offers something for everyone with a mix of topics and cinematic styles that will both inspire and entertain.

All types of outdoor adventure such as surfing and skiing, base-jumping and bouldering, rowing and trail running, are beautifully captured in the films. They also range in duration from the heart-warming and humorous 9-minute Ace and the Desert Dog and 5-minute art piece that is Metronomic, to the 27-minute inspirational documentary Young guns, which will keep audiences of all ages motivated to gear up and get out.

What’s more, attendees will get to see this year’s winning submission from the annual Cape Union Mart Adventure Film Challenge - One Fly at a Time by Dewald Brand. The competition gets local filmmakers, adventurers and athletes to capture and celebrate South Africa’s outdoors culture as well as the spirit of adventure.

Tickets are available for purchase from October and can be bought directly through Ster-Kinekor. Book online at www. sterkinekor.com or call Ster-Kinekor Ticketline on 082 16789. Ticket prices are the same as a standard Ster-Kinekor ticket.

The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is hosted by Cape Union Mart, in proud partnership with leading outdoor brands K-Way, LED Lenser, Deuter and GoPro. Visit https://www.capeunionmart.co.za for more information.

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O UT AN D ABOU T

crazy for walking How do you tackle a walk from Pretoria to Cape Town? The obvious answer is “One step at a time”, but you’re probably asking the question “Why walk from Pretoria to Cape Town when there are far easier options to cover the distance?” Crazy for Walking is an initiative which will see several walkers depart Pretoria on 1 September and arrive in Cape Town on 10 October which is World Mental Health Day. They’re walking to highlight and de-stigmatize Mental Illness.

Taking “ownership” of the word “Crazy” is key to the campaign. “Our aim is to educate people about mental illness, particularly depression and anxiety,” says Francois Louw, CEO of Vista Clinic, one of 30 psychiatric hospitals in the National Health Network (NHN) group of hospitals and the principal sponsor of the initiative. “We’ll be making stops in various towns along the way to hold educational talks about mental illness. At these talks, we will assist people with guidelines on where to seek help, as well as give them some coping mechanisms, focusing around our HAPPINESS HELPS programme.”

Walkers will walk from Monday to Friday every week, walking around 12 hours per day in relay shifts. This means that each walker will walk between 4 and 6 hours per day. The walkers are sponsored by their companies and come from all around the country with most walking in the regions near to their workplaces.

And, if you notice that the walkers are all wearing very funky,

colourful, crazy socks, this is a key element of the campaign. On 10 October, to highlight World Mental Health Day, Crazy for Walking is encouraging everyone to wear their “craziest” socks and to take photographs of this and share the pics on the social media feeds as part of “Crazy Socks Day”. The ultimate aim of this is to promote awareness of mental illness and to have some fun and remove the sting out of the word “crazy”.

You can follow the progress of the walk (and post your photographs) on the following social media feeds: Facebook: @CrazyforWalking Twitter: @CrazyforWalking #crazyforwalking #crazysocksday Instagram: @crazyforwalking Website: www.crazyforwalking.co.za

cycling across s america for the dot challenge Brent Hazell and Jason Smit are two South African brothers from another mother, as they described their deep relationship. The two men have decided to cycle across the length of South America, covering 11, 000km taking 7 months, which would be average 60kms cycled per day.

The purpose behind it is to raise awareness for the DOT Challenge and inspire many other to Do One Thing for the planet, this is the initiative that Braam Malherbe, extreme adventurer, motivational speaker and conservationist conceptualized and started a few years back.

On September 3rd Brent and Jason departed from South Africa and started their journey in Ushuaia, on the southern tip of Argentina. From there they will head north with the intension of reaching northern Colombia 7 months later.

Their tour will take them through some of the highlights of South America, including the ice caps of Patagonia, the

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beautiful ancient ruins of Machu Pichu and Charles Darwin’s Galapagous Islands. It will give them the opportunity to experience a wide variety of different climates and environments in Spanish speaking countries.

Brent has recently quit his job to undertake this journey of self exploration and Jason is an aspiring development activist who wants to understand the world.

Both want to become greater assets to this finite planet, our only home. Originally they planned to embark on this journey primarily for self discovery, but after they attended Braam Malherbe’s motivational talk and heard about the DOT Challenge, they decided that this is their purpose and that the last piece of the puzzle was found.

Climate change is a topic that both of them feel strongly about and they are going to help to reach the goal of getting

as many people as they can to Do One Thing every day for the planet. They have taken a drone, a GoPro and a camera along with them in order to document the challenges. All of them will be posted on the DOT Challenge’s social media platforms.

To support this global initiative and contribute to the wellbeing of the planet please visit the www.thedotfoundation.org and www.2brotherstouring.com.

You can also be part of the journey by following the campaign on social media: #DOTChallenge #DOT2BrothersTouring

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O UT AN D A B O U T

win

big with the intrepid explorer

Our big prize of this edition comes compliments of Zion wetsuits and Boston Breweries cap.

One lucky reader will walk away with a Zion Yeti Zipperless 4/3 Steamer wetsuit valued at R1500 plus a Boston Breweries pack of Naked Mexican craft beer and a Boston Breweries peak cap. The Zion Yeti Zipperless 4/3mm Wetsuit offers the warmth of the Yeti with the freedom of the Cortez - this badass hybrid is a game changer! Taking the 100% pure Yeti woollen lining from the Yeti range of Zion wetsuits, and the ultra flex and comfort of the Cortez Zipperless range, they stewed the two together to release the best wetsuit money can buy. Pure warmth, pure comfort, pure style!

The Zion Yeti Zipperless 4/3mm features: › Ergonomic cut › 100% S-Seal external liquid taped › 1 00% superstretch Japanese limestone

win

› ›

› › › ›

›

based neoprene. Warmer and kinder to the environment than regular neoprene Silk Touch External Jersey B amboo Charcoal Internal Jersey on shoulders and arms, 100% pure Yeti wool lined from the chest down Zipperless entry Glideskin neck 3 D ink logos that won’t fade, peel or crack I nterior wrist and ankle grips to prevent the awkward slide Leg keystash

QUESTION: what is the name of the craft beer from Boston Breweries that is part of the prize above, along with the Zion wetsuit?

To be in it to win it please send an email and your contact details with the answer to this question below with the subject line ZION WETSUIT to; susan.ball@anapublishing.com

big again

Another lucky reader will walk away with these three new books that have just been published by RandomHouse Struik.

All you have to do to stand a chance of winning them is to send an email and your contact details with the answer to this question below with the subject line INTREPID EXPLORER BOOKS to susan.ball@anapublishing.com QUESTION: What is the name of the White Shark in the title of the one book up for grabs?

KINGDOM OF DAYLIGHT: MEMORIES OF A BIRDWATCHER In this autobiographical account of a lifetime spent observing, researching and photographing birds, Peter Steyn shares experiences that span some 70 years.

This detailed and fascinating memoir captures the author’s great enthusiasm for birds and their role in shaping his life and experiences. The book is well illustrated and features more than 400 photographs taken during Peter’s lifelong journey with birds. Peter Steyn’s passion for birds began at an early age, and saw him develop into both an expert bird photographer and author of nine books and numerous popular and scientific articles on the subject. His published research on birds of prey, in particular, has been widely acclaimed. He has received the prestigious

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Gill Memorial Medal ‘for an outstanding lifetime contribution to the knowledge of southern African birds’; and the Steven Piper Lifetime Achievement Award for his contribution to raptor conservation and research.

HERMANUS - WHALES • WINE • FYNBOS • ART Set along the cliffs between mountain and sea, Hermanus is one of the most popular holiday and travel destinations in South Africa. The stars of the bay are undoubtedly the Southern Right Whales that migrate from Antarctica to mate and calve here during the winter months. But it is not only the wonders of the sea that draw

thousands of visitors to this picturesque village and surrounds year after year. Mountains, fynbos, culture, arts, crafts, country markets, adventure sports, scenic walks, golf courses, nature reserves, shark-cage diving, historical landmarks, and the vineyards and world-class wines of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley are richly described and illustrated in this lavish volume.

Beth Hunt is the owner of Hemingways Bookshop in Hermanus and is also a

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www.wildfrontiers.com columnist for the Hermanus-based Whale Talk. Brothers Johann and Kobus Kruger are professional photographers, specialising in nature and wilderness photography.

NICOLE - THE TRUE STORY OF A GREAT WHITE SHARK’S JOURNEY INTO HISTORY Sharks are among the most persecuted animals on Earth.

Nicole’s block-buster story highlights the shocking details of the trade in shark fins, and raises awareness of the plight of sharks in the 21st century. In November 2003 a female Great White Shark was tagged near Dyer Island in South Africa. Her tag popped up in February 2004, just south of Western Australia. The shark, later to be named Nicole (after shark enthusiast Nicole Kidman), had swum an epic 11,000 km. Scientists were even more surprised when she was identified back in South Africa in August 2004 – she had covered 22,000 km in less than nine months, using pinpoint navigation both ways. Since then, many Great Whites have been tagged and have shown a propensity for undertaking long migrations – but none has yet matched Nicole’s amazing feat. This story incorporates a blend of science, actual events and real people, along with conjecture as to what might have happened on Nicole’s momentous journey. Richard Peirce has been involved in shark conservation for over 25 years. He was chairman of both the Shark Conservation Society and the Shark Trust for more than 10 years, and has recently re-joined the Trust as a Trustee.

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2017/06/28

11:01 AM

COME BACK CHANGED SEE AFRICA THROUGH OUR EYES

CONTACT US

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TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA ETHIOPIA ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA

HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K

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A guided tour of the new, exciting vehicles that have been spotted on our roads recently

Like the Big 5 in the bush, these vehicles have unique characteristics: some may be featured for their strength and speed, and others for their comfort and size.

RAISING THE BAR – THE NEW HYUNDAI ELANTRA Hyundai’s all-new Elantra has arrived in South Africa – with its new attractive design lines and an exciting flagship derivative that boasts a 150 kW turbocharged petrol engine and a 7-speed Dual Clutch Transmission, which thoroughly earns its Sport moniker.

Building on the outstanding design and credentials of the previous model – which won the Car of the Year prize in South Africa in 2012 – the new 2017 Elantra is an impressive car that is bound to be a most successful competitor in the local compact sedan segment.

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The 2017 Elantra enters the South African market in four derivatives: The Elantra 1.6 Executive manual and Elantra 1.6 Executive automatic (both driven by a 1,6-litre naturally aspirated petrol engine); the Elantra 2.0 Elite, with a naturally aspirated 2-litre petrol engine; and the rangetopping Elantra 1.6 TGDI Elite DCT Sport, with a powerful 1,6-litre turbocharged petrol engine.

I drove the Sport model and it was very impressive, as I have found over the years with Hyundai. They deliver. First-time drivers of the new Elantra will be pleasantly

surprised to see standard features such as an 8-inch hi-resolution infotainment system, rear park assist, 6 airbags, Isofix latching points for child seats, cruise control and attractive alloy wheels on all the derivatives.

Model-exclusive front and rear fascias give the Sport crucial visual differentiation from the rest of the Elantra lineup, with subtle but immediately recognizable “tells” that hint at the car’s improved power and dynamics. Note the Sport’s black hexagonal grille with subtle “Turbo” badge; aggressive side sill extensions; horizontal LED Daytime

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Running Lights; a unique inner housing for the headlamps; a Sport-specific light signature for the standard LED taillights; and chrome dual exhaust outlets nestled in a rear-bumper diffuser insert.

The rear light cluster of the new Elantra with its bright LED display is also distinctive of the Hyundai range. For the Elantra Sport, a different bottom half of the rear bumper reiterates its sporty nature, with a unique skid plate and visible chrome-plated dual exhaust pipes.

The standard 8-inch infotainment system, which includes satellite navigation,

provides a USB Mirror Link for Android cell phones, HDMI connectivity for iPhones to view the iPhone screen on the head unit, hands-free Bluetooth telephone link with remote controls on the steering wheel, Bluetooth music streaming and AUX and USB input ports. It also features a CD player.

Electrically operated side mirrors and windows, cruise control and rear park assist are also standard convenience features across the range. The Elite derivatives have an automatic air conditioner, rain sensors for the windscreen wipers, and a smart key push-button to start the engine.

Price tag The recommended retail prices of the new Elantra range are: › Elantra 1.6 Executive (manual) R299 900 › Elantra 1.6 Executive (auto) R314 900 › Elantra 2.0 Elite (auto) R349 900 › Elantra 1.6 TGDI Elite DCT R399 900 Hyundai’s 5-year/150 000 km warranty and additional 2-year/500 powertrain warranty is part of the standard package, which also includes 5-year/150 000 km roadside assistance and a 5-year/90 000 km service plan.

IT JUST GETS BETTER WITH TIME – THE NEW TOYOTA COROLLA To celebrate 50 years of great heritage, Toyota kicks off the New Year with a sleeker model to augment the model’s iconic status One of the most difficult questions to answer in the automotive industry is, what makes a really great car? The consensus on the topic is as elusive as flying saucers. But we would put the Toyota Corolla forward as one of the best nameplates ever manufactured. There are many reasons this is a car Toyota can be proud of.

Now well into its eleventh generation, and more than 50 years since being introduced onto the market, there is no doubt that Toyota has had enough time to perfect the Corolla recipe. Not only does it remain the world’s best-selling nameplate in automotive history, it’s still one of the most popular vehicles in the Toyota line-up.

Right from the start, the Corolla was designed to have wide appeal. As a “people’s car”, it was affordable. And, as a family car, it was generous on space while also displaying higher build quality and considerable equipment features.

The new Corolla upgrades include exterior front- and rear-end refreshments and enhanced interior modifications to give it classier feel. Picking up where the current generation left off, the 2017 Corolla continues to deliver competent performance and consistently good fuel economy, all of which translates into attractive cost-of-ownership benefits.

The engine line-up remains unchanged, featuring a choice of a 1.4 litre D-4D turbodiesel and three petrol engines; a

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1.3-litre Dual VVT-i unit, a 1.6-litre Dual VVT-i engine and the 1.8-litre Dual VVT-i unit. All engines are fitted with six-speed manual transmissions.

Revised tuning of the CVT transmission delivers shifts that are quicker, crisper and smoother with better matching to engine speed. The Corolla comes in three different models – The Esteem, the Prestige and the Exclusive, which is the one I got to review.

This model is packed with luxury and comfort-enhancing specifications including auto climate control; Push Start; Smart Entry; Rain-sensing wipers; Airbags; Auto Headlamp levelling; Front fog lamps; Auto Interior Rear View Mirror; Speedometer with TFT Colour Display and Cruise Control.

All in all another job well done Toyota, I have no doubt this Corolla will also fly.

Price tag › 1.3 Esteem: R261 300 › 1.6 Esteem: R280 200 › 1.4 D Esteem: R294 400 › 1.3 Prestige: R281 300 › 1.4 D Prestige: R307 500 › 1.6 Prestige: R299 900 › 1.6 Prestige AT: R314 000 › 1.8 Prestige R313 500 › 1.8 Exclusive: R336 300 › 1.8 Exclusive AT R349 400 * All models are covered by a 5-year/ 90 000km Service Plan and a 3-year/ 100 000km

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HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K SLICK AND STYLISH – THE NEW BMW X1 The X1 was the pioneer of this highly contested segment when it was launched a number of years ago. It has since then sold around 730 000 units globally and here in South Africa it is loved by people looking for a vehicle which will complement their active lifestyle yet offer the driving feel of a medium-sized sedan. Unfortunately, the BMW X1 seemed to come across as a bit of a soccer mom’s car. Now though, BMW has redesigned it and from what we’ve seen… it looks pretty good.

The second generation, the X1 model, takes to the stage with a body design straight out of the BMW X model mould. It is definitely the offspring between the X3 and X5. It features rugged proportions, a powerful presence and dynamic lines.

These design elements give the new BMW X1 a commanding appearance and highlight its status as the youngest member of the BMW X model family.

The new model has also grown in height by about 53mm compared to its predecessor, which has helped increase the spaciousness of the interior. Its significantly raised seating position (36mm at the front and 64mm at the rear to be exact) optimises the driver’s view.

The interior has also been changed and now falls more in line with that of the other

BMW X models. The interior combines the driver-focused cockpit design with touches promoting quality, SAV-style, driving pleasure and a contemporary premium ambience. Standard equipment includes air conditioning, an audio system with USB and AUX-in sockets, and the iDrive operating system, incorporating a 6.5-inch display integrating into the instrument panel in freestanding monitor form.

Meanwhile, the Advantage, Sport Line, X Line and M Sport packages available as an alternative to standard specification, open the door for targeted individualisation.

When it comes to engines and drivetrains BMW once again decided to change a few things. One of the biggest changes is that the X1 will be available in a front-wheel-drive derivative as well. Don’t

stress though if you want an AWD version because there will still be xDrive models available. As for engines, BMW will offer the new X1 with two petrol engines and three diesel engines - all of which have four cylinders and are members of the BMW Group’s new engine family. Outputs range from 110kW to 170kW. The engines link-up with either a six-speed manual gearbox or an eight-speed Steptronic unit, both of which are new developments. I loved this vehicle when it was first launched and I loved it even more this time around. Overall, the BMW X1 is an all-around overachiever.

Price tag › BMW X1 sDrive20d › BMW X1 sDrive20d auto › BMW X1 sDrive20d auto

R546,700 R567,500 R569,900

FUN AND FUNKY – THE NEW KIA PICANTO

The all-new KIA Picanto, now in its third-generation, brings a new, more youthful and energetic character to the A-segment. Global sales of the currentgeneration Picanto have totalled more than 1,4 million since 2011, making it one of KIA’s best-selling models. Retaining the strengths of its predecessor, with a new level of dynamism and performance, enhanced safety and greater value for

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money, the all-new Picanto is now available in South Africa.

Boasting an assertive new design and a high-quality, high-tech new cabin, the latest model promises to be the most versatile car in its class thanks to its low running costs and compact dimensions.

While the new model is no larger than its predecessor, it’s ideal for city driving – yet offers more cabin and cargo space than

ever before.

The all-new Picanto benefits from a global approach to car design and has seen KIA’s design centres in Namyang, Korea and Frankfurt, Germany, collaborating to design a car that is more youthful and energetic than ever before.

Briefed to produce an innovative, bold and fun urban city car, designers have followed up on the mandate to full effect, giving the new Picanto a more assertive stance with bolder bodylines.

With the wheelbase extended to 2,400 mm (an increase of 15 mm), the wheels have been pushed further out to the corners for a 25 mm shorter front overhang, making the car look more planted on the road. Strong, straight lines run horizontally across the front of the car, emphasising the ‘tiger-nose’ grille and angular new wrap-around headlamps.

Vertical lines that encompass the side

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H IT T H E ROAD, JACK

intakes and lower grille enhance the Picanto’s more confident new ‘face’.

The all-new Picanto offers buyers greater scope to express their personalities, with a choice of 11 vibrant paint finishes designed to make the car stand out.

Among the six new colours available to buyers is ‘Lime Light’, ‘Shiny Red’, ‘Aurora Black’, ‘Pop Orange’, ‘Sparkling Silver’ and ‘Celestial Blue’ pearlescent metallic paint finishes. Depending on the model, the Picanto is fitted with either 13- or 14-inch steel wheels with stylish wheel covers, or a choice of 14- and 15-inch aluminium alloy wheel designs. High specification models of the all-new Picanto also feature new projection headlamps with LED indicators and LED daytime running lights.

Refinement has been dramatically improved in the new Picanto, with a range of modifications designed to further isolate the cabin from vibrations and noise from the road, wind and the engine. The result is

a car that offers one of the quietest cabins of any A-segment model, both at idle and at a steady cruise.

Buyers of the new KIA Picanto will have access to some of the most advanced infotainment and convenience technologies available in the A-segment, while still enjoying the same high value for money expected of a KIA vehicle.

In lower specification models, the large, ‘floating’ HMI at the centre of the dashboard houses a 3,8-inch monochrome TFT LCD audio system, with clear buttons to control the system’s functions.

High specification models feature a 7,0-inch full-colour touchscreen infotainment system offering a Bluetooth connection to smartphones to play music on the go. The 7,0-inch touchscreen HMI system also supports Apple CarPlay™ and Android Auto™ for full smartphone integration.

Despite the all-new KIA Picanto

representing a huge step forward for KIA in its quest to provide customers with a fun, funky, high-quality city car, KIA is launching the new Picanto range at price points that are virtually unchanged from the outgoing models.

Price tag › › › › ›

Picanto 1.0 START Manual Picanto 1.0 STREET Manual Picanto 1.0 STYLE Manual Picanto 1.0 STYLE Auto Picanto 1.0 SMART Manual

R134,995 R149,995 R159,995 R172,995 R179,995

A sunroof is available as an option on the SMART models for an additional R8,500.

Adding even further value to the KIA Picanto package is KIA’s class-leading 5-year / Unlimited Kilometre Warranty, inclusive of 3-years / Unlimited Kilometres Roadside Assistance, as standard. A service is available as an option through KIA Financial Services.

NOT JUST FOR SOCCER MOMS – THE NEW TOYOTA RAV4 The modern SUV has become the quintessential multi-purpose vehicle, living up to the Sports Utility Vehicle moniker.

Whether you are loading up the spacious 480-litre boot (547 litre in VX models equipped with a space saver-spare wheel) with your family’s belongings, heading out for a ‘boys’ weekend away’ or carting your surfboard to the local hotspot – the RAV4 is perfect for you.

Mom’s needn’t feel excluded as the RAV4 will serve as the perfect companion on the daily school run, loaded up with the proverbial ‘soccer team’.

With a host of comfort and convenience features, seating for five and a myriad of cup-holders and storage compartments, road trips are a cinch. Making long-distance trips even more relaxing now is the fitment of Cruise Control to all GX derivatives.

Drivers can operate the system easily from the multi-function steering mounted switchgear. Tactile feel of the ‘wheel has also been bolstered with the inclusion of leather upholstery. On the exterior front, a new metallic red hue has been added to the colour palette.

The model line-up remains untouched with a choice of three engine configurations and two spec levels (grades); GX and VX. Buyers can opt for a

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2.0 litre 4-cylinder unit producing 107 kW and 187 Nm, available in either 6-speed manual or self-shifting Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT).

Diesel fans are also accommodated with a perky 2.2 litre mill, serving up 110 kW and 340 Nm – which is offered in both GX and upscale VX trim. GX models feature a 6-speed manual transmission, whilst VX spec derivatives receive a 6-speed automatic.

Rounding out the line-up is a smooth 2.5 litre 4-cylinder petrol engine mated to a 6-speed automatic transmission, delivering 132 kW of Power and a healthy 233 Nm of

Torque. All in all, the new RAV4 is exactly what we have come to expect from Toyota – reliability and versatility.

Price tag › › › › ›

RAV4 2.0 GX 6MT RAV4 2.0 GX CVT RAV4 2.2D GX 6MT RAV4 2.2D VX 6AT RAV4 2.5 VX 6AT

R 374 500 R 387 200 R467 500 R 552 400 R 518 200

Peace of Mind All RAV4 models come standard with a 3-year/100 000 km warranty and 5-year/90 000 km service plan.

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STOR E L IS TI N G WESTERN CAPE STORES Bayside Mall, Blouberg (021) 556-3861 bayside@capeunionmart.co.za Blue Route Mall, Tokai (021) 712-5979 blueroute@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk, Century City (021) 555-2846 canalwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk Adventure Centre (021) 555-4692 cwac@capeunionmart.co.za CapeGate Shopping Centre, Brackenfell (021) 982-2000 capegate@capeunionmart.co.za Cavendish Square, Claremont (021) 674-2148 cavendish@capeunionmart.co.za Constantia Village (021) 794-0632 constantia@capeunionmart.co.za Gardens Centre (021) 461-9678 gardens@capeunionmart.co.za Mill Square, Stellenbosch (021) 886-4645 stellenbosch@capeunionmart.co.za Mountain Mill Mall, Worcester (023) 347-1484 worcester@capeunionmart.co.za Paarl Mall (021) 863-4138 paarl@capeunionmart.co.za

Vincent Park, East London (043) 726-2900 vincentpark@capeunionmart.co.za KWAZULU-NATAL STORES Ballito Junction (032) 586-1626 ballitojunction@capeunionmart.co.za Ballito Lifestyle Centre (032) 586-1464 ballitolifestylecentre@capeunionmart.co.za Boardwalk Inkwazi Centre, Richard’s Bay (035) 789-0321 boardwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Galleria Mall, Durban (031) 904-2318 galleria@capeunionmart.co.za Gateway World, Durban (031) 566-5111 gateway@capeunionmart.co.za La Lucia Mall (031) 562-0523 lalucia@capeunionmart.co.za Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg (033) 342-0152 midlands@capeunionmart.co.za The Pavilion, Westville (031) 265-1666 pavilion@capeunionmart.co.za Watercrest Mall, Durban (031) 763-1489 watercrest@capeunionmart.co.za

Somerset Mall (021) 852-7120 somersetwest@capeunionmart.co.za

NORTHERN CAPE STORES Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, Kimberley (053) 832-3846 diamondpavilion@capeunionmart.co.za

Tygervalley Shopping Centre (021) 914-1441 tygervalley@capeunionmart.co.za

Kalahari Mall, Upington (054) 331-3631 kalaharimall@capeunionmart.co.za

V&A Waterfront Quay Four (021) 425-4559 quayfour@capeunionmart.co.za

Kathu Village Mall (053) 723-2736 kathu@capeunionmart.co.za

V&A Waterfront Travel & Safari (021) 419-0019 waterfront@capeunionmart.co.za

Kuruman Mall (053) 712-0175 kuruman@capeunionmart.co.za

West Coast Mall, Vredenburg (022) 713-4113 weskus@capeunionmart.co.za

Matlosana Mall, Klerksdorp (018) 462-0711 matlosanamall@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall of Africa, Midrand (010) 592-2210 mallofafrica@capeunionmart.co.za

MooiRivier Mall, Potchefstroom (018) 293-1788 mooirivier@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall of the South, Aspen Hills (011) 682-2361 mallofthesouth@capeunionmart.co.za

Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg (014) 537-3651 waterfall@capeunionmart.co.za

Menlyn on Maine (012) 348-4421 menlynonmaine@capeunionmart.co.za

Menlyn Park LIMPOPO STORES (012) 368-1015 Lephalale Mall menlyn@capeunionmart.co.za (014) 763-1278 Nicolway Bryanston lephalale@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 706-7573 Mall of the North, Polokwane nicolway@capeunionmart.co.za (015) 265-1067 mallofthenorth@capeunionmart.co.za Tzaneen Lifestyle Centre (015) 307-1002 tzaneen@capeunionmart.co.za

Northgate Shopping Centre (011) 794-1022 northgate@capeunionmart.co.za

OR Tambo International Airport (011) 390-3245 GAUTENG STORES ortambo@capeunionmart.co.za Atterbury Value Mart, Pretoria River Square Centre, Vereeniging (012) 991-3171 (016) 454-0103 atterbury@capeunionmart.co.za riversquare@capeunionmart.co.za Bedford Centre, Johannesburg Rosebank Mall (011) 615-3097 (011) 442-1959 bedford@capeunionmart.co.za rosebank@capeunionmart.co.za Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria Sandton City (012) 460-5511 (011) 884-9771 brooklyn@capeunionmart.co.za sandton@capeunionmart.co.za Mall@Carnival, Brakpan Springs Mall (011) 915-0470 springs@capeunionmart.co.za carnivalmall@capeunionmart.co.za The Glen Shopping Centre, Oakdene Centurion Lifestyle Centre (011) 436-1300 (012) 653-1114 centurionlifestylecentre@capeunionmart.co.za theglen@capeunionmart.co.za Centurion Mall (012) 663-4111 centurion@capeunionmart.co.za Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort (011) 675-0036 clearwater@capeunionmart.co.za Cradlestone, Krugersdorp (011) 662-1530 cradlestone@capeunionmart.co.za

The Grove Mall, Pretoria (012) 807-0642 thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za Vaal Mall, Vanderbijlpark (016) 981-5186 vaalmall@capeunionmart.co.za

Wonderpark Shopping Centre, Pretoria (012) 549-4203 wonderpark@capeunionmart.co.za

FREE STATE STORES

Cresta Shopping Centre (011) 478-1913 cresta@capeunionmart.co.za

Woodlands Boulevard, Pretoria (012) 997-6960 woodlands@capeunionmart.co.za

Goldfields, Welkom (057) 352-3005 goldfields@capeunionmart.co.za

Eastgate Adventure Centre (011) 622-8788 egac@capeunionmart.co.za

Loch Logan Waterfront, Bloemfontein (051) 430-0230 lochlogan@capeunionmart.co.za

Knysna Mall (044) 382-4653 knysna@capeunionmart.co.za

East Rand Mall, Boksburg (011) 826-2408 eastrandmall@capeunionmart.co.za

BOTSWANA STORES Gallo, Pick n Pay Centre, Francistown (+267) 024-10-398 francistown@capeunionmart.co.za

Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein (051) 444-6060 mimosa@capeunionmart.co.za

Langeberg Mall, Mossel Bay (044) 695-2486 mosselbay@capeunionmart.co.za

Fourways Crossing (011) 465-0559 fourwayscrossing@capeunionmart.co.za

Dihlabeng Mall, Bethlehem (058) 303-1372 dihlabeng@capeunionmart.co.za

Fourways Mall (011) 465-9824 fourways@capeunionmart.co.za

GARDEN ROUTE Garden Route Mall, George (044) 887-0048 gardenroute@capeunionmart.co.za

The Market Square, Plettenberg Bay (044) 533-4030 marketsquare@capeunionmart.co.za

Greenstone Shopping Centre, Edenvale MPUMALANGA STORES (011) 609-0002 Hazyview Junction greenstone@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 737-3137 hazyview@capeunionmart.co.za Heidelberg Mall EASTERN CAPE STORES (016) 341-2031 Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth Highveld Mall, Emalahleni heidelberg@capeunionmart.co.za (041) 371-1416 (013) 692-4018 baywest@capeunionmart.co.za highveld@capeunionmart.co.za Hyde Park Corner (011) 325-5038 Fountains Mall, Jeffreys Bay i’langa Mall, Nelspruit hydepark@capeunionmart.co.za (042) 293-0005 (013) 742-2281 fountainsmall@capeunionmart.co.za ilanga@capeunionmart.co.za Irene Village Mall (012) 662-1133 Greenacres Shopping Centre, PE Middelburg Mall irene@capeunionmart.co.za (041) 363-1504 (013) 244-1040 greenacres@capeunionmart.co.za middelburg@capeunionmart.co.za Killarney Mall (011) 646-7745 Hemmingways Shopping Centre, Riverside Mall, Nelspruit killarney@capeunionmart.co.za East London (013) 757-0338 (043) 726-0908 nelspruit@capeunionmart.co.za Kolonnade Shopping Centre, Pretoria hemmingways@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 548-9811 Secunda Mall kolonnade@capeunionmart.co.za Pepper Grove (Grahamstown) (017) 634-7921 (046) 622-3238 secunda@capeunionmart.co.za Kyalami Corner peppergrovemall@capeunionmart.co.za 083 859 6278 NORTH WEST STORES kyalami@capeunionmart.co.za Walmer Park Shopping Centre, PE Brits Mall (041) 368-7442 Mall@Reds, Centurion (012) 250-1909 walmer@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 656-0182 brits@capeunionmart.co.za redsmall@capeunionmart.co.za

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Gamecity Lifestyle Centre, Gaborone (+267) 039-10-948 gamecity@capeunionmart.co.za Riverwalk Mall, Gaborone (+267) 037-00-040/1/2 riverwalk@capeunionmart.co.za

NAMIBIA STORES Maerua Mall, Windhoek (+264) 061-220-424 windhoek@capeunionmart.co.za Platz am Meer, Swakopmund (+264) 064-464-007 platzammeer@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall of Namibia (+264) 061-253-161 thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za

OUTLET STORES Access Park, Cape Town (021) 674-6398 accesspark@capeunionmart.co.za Forest Hill City, Centurion (012) 668-1030 foresthill@capeunionmart.co.za Woodmead Value Mart, Johannesburg (011) 656-0750 woodmead@capeunionmart.co.za

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H OW E TO T RAVEL

mad max of the outback Graham Howe downs a few One Fifty Lashes in Broken Hill, in the great Australian Outback, and visits the Mad Max Museum, to which thousands of hard core fans flock to from around the world every year

S

tanding at the old Victorian bar, I order One Fifty Lashes, a frosty pale ale with a fruity nose and flavours of passion fruit, named after a convict who stole hops to brew his own beer in the 1800s - and now has a craft Australian brewery called James Squire named after him. It seems the right stuff to drink at the Palace Hotel in Broken Hill, the thirsty gateway to the Australian Outback in New South Wales.

“Life in the Outback is never a drag,” is the motto of the hotel, which holds weekly drag bingo and drag disco sessions. Scenes from Priscilla: Queen of the Desert were shot in this iconic hotel, which also hosts the “Broken Heel” festival every year. A giant glittering silver high heel sits in the well of a grand wooden stairway which leads to the pink Priscilla suite, huge Outback murals and a boardwalk balcony overlooking the main street.

The bar tender says the Palace was the town’s first dry (alcohol-free) hotel opened by the Women’s Temperance Union of Australia in 1889. But the concept of a prohibition pub never went down well - and it soon started pouring booze. In the heyday of the mining boom in the early 1900s there were 72 hotels, pubs and brothels in “Silver City” after the world’s richest deposits of silver, lead and zinc were discovered in a line of lode which still runs right through the middle of town.

You can’t get lost in Broken Hill. “If you can see traffic lights you know you’re in the main street!” quips our guide. It feels like a frontier town out of the Wild West, with streets lined with old Victorian hotels, broekie-lace railings, widow walk balconies and striped tin awnings. I spot a shop called Outback Whips & Leather, where a whip maker still makes and repairs stock-whips and saddles. Priscilla is at home here.

We head north to the nearby ghost town of Silverton, on the way to a town called Packsaddle. We are told to count the 39 dips in the road to Silverton - the name of the first café you come to there. At the

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height of the mining boom in the late 1880s, Silverton was home to 3 000 residents - but today it is home to only 35 people, four donkeys and a handful of retired horses and goats, according to the last census.

Peter Price, the ponytailed owner of the landmark Silverton Hotel (1884), jokes: “We’re not quite a ghost town. In a community this small, no-one talks to anyone else … but we’ve got a fantastic gossip mill. We don’t have any police here either! I’m the plumber, the mayor, the town council and the owner of the Silverton Hotel and pub!”

His wife, Patsy, was Miss Silverton in 1966. And Bella, his dog, opens the swing doors to the pub with a swipe of her large paw - and ushers us inside. Dozens of pictures on the walls show all the movies (from A Town like Alice to Mad Max and Razorback) and rock videos (Midnight Oil to Inxcess) which have been shot in and around the atmospheric hotel. They even stage operas in the Outback on an outdoor stage cut out of an abandoned old truck - as well as an annual St Patrick’s Recovery Day. Thousands of hard core fans come from around the world to Silverton, to visit the Mad Max Museum. A Yorkshire couple, Adrian and Linda Bennett, emigrated from England to this desolate place in the Outback to follow their dream - and open the museum. Linda, at the ticket desk, says: “I’ve got a passion. He’s got an obsession!”

The apocalyptic mural painted on the front of the tin shack depicts a young Mel Gibson and his blue heeler DOG - while exhibits feature hundreds of behind the scenes photos, costumes, props and memorabilia from Mad Max Two (The Road Warrior) filmed around here in 1981 - based on the life of a real local stuntman, Max Aspin. The movie soundtrack and scenes from the movie play while we strolled around a junk yard of customised Mad Max ATV vehicles, motorbikes with bars of ram horns and scary props like the roo buggy, gyrocopter and the big yellow bus.

At sunset, we drive up the Mundi Mundi

Lookout on a hilltop outside Silverton, where scenes were also filmed. Crows are sitting on the signposts to Umberumberka (meaning place of water rats) and Mundi Mundi (place of red sands) - and wild horses called brumbies cross the lonely road to nowhere to graze in the shadows of giant cacti . We feel like we are in a road movie straight out of the Wild West.

The dusty streets of Silverton are decorated with brightly painted psychedelic wrecks of old VWs from Mad Max. The broad dirt streets are big enough to turn around a horse and wagon. I loved the gallery of Outback art, an old miner’s tin shack guarded by a full-size replica of Ned Kelly in a welder’s mask, wielding a shotgun.

The cowboys come from sheep farms far and wide to drink at the Silverton Hotel - and sleep overnight on the stage. When I ask where the steak comes from, the cook says: “From a bloody cow! The pies come from Broken Hill. Try the pie, gravy and chips.” The kitchen closes at 7:30 - and the hotel toilets are marked “rams” and “ewes”.

When Silverton’s old post office closed in 1979, it issued a last day cover! The old brewery has also closed, but at least the pub is still open. Silverton survives on the edge.

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T HE L AST WO RD

Carte Blanche’s Derek Watts, shares some of his own intrepid travels and secrets with our readers › Where is/are the top destination/s on ‘Your Bucket List’ of places that you would love to still travel to?

Somehow Madagascar has escaped the Carte Blanche shooting schedules. But I’m not keen to paddle around it like Riaan Manser! › Which favourite places have you already ticked off your bucket list?

Top of the list must be a totally deserted Base Camp Mount Everest. By helicopter of course. It’s hard to describe the feeling of standing beneath that towering iconic mountain, which is enshrined with so many stories of incredible courage and tragedy. A rare privilege that I would think only pioneering climbers and the leading Sherpa at the start of a new season would have experienced. › What is the weirdest food/drink that you have ever tried?

We did a story on primate hunters in the Cameroon and met one of them in the forest who, very surprisingly, gave us an interview in good English. But then the taxi driver refused to drive back to Yaounde because his lights weren’t working. We were trapped in the rain forest with nary a packet of chips or sleeping bag. He offered to make us a stew and we insisted that it only contained bush meat. But we will never know if we ate the evidence! › Are you an adrenaline junkie? Can you share your experiences of anything like shark-cage diving/bungee-jumping/ parachuting/abseiling? If you have yet to try any of these, what would appeal to you and what would not?

I have been on a number of shark cage dives and was knocked around the cage by quite a large fellow in Gansbaai a year or two ago. And I bungee-jumped off Victoria Falls bridge for a story on adrenalin junkies.

It took a lot of persuasion and a nudge from the rather military instructor! But the most nervous I have ever been was technical climbing in the Drakensberg with the legendary Sean Wisedale and Alex Harris. As I was losing my grip and about to swing into a massive valley held only by a thin rope and a shaky piton, I called out to

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Sean that I didn’t think I was going to make it. He grumbled that he was also stretched to the limit. “But you climbed Everest”, I squeaked. “Yes,” he replied, “but that’s not a technical climb!” › If you consider your own upbringing, were/are you a bush baby or a city slicker?

In Bulawayo the two are hard to separate. I love the peace of the great outdoors for a day or two but then I pine to watch the rugby Test on a big screen. So I guess I’m really a city boy! › Braai or sushi?

My rib-eye aged steaks flame grilled in olive oil are hard to beat. But authentic sushi (sashimi in particular) wins the day. › What is the most memorable experience you have had/seen with wildlife?

My up close and personal experiences have been doing a piece to camera in Mabula Reserve, when an elephant sneaked up behind me and wrapped its trunk around my chest. On another story, with Gareth Patterson’s lions, a rather frisky male jumped on to my shoulders and we performed a rather awkward and terrifying dance. I survived (just) to be told by the producer that the footage was faulty and we had to go back! Guess what? Another Tango! The most embarrassing (but hilarious for our viewers) was being perched on top of a pen containing an enormous rhino. He advanced rapidly and stuck his horn up my bum. Not very glamorous… › If you were stuck on a desert island, would you know how to make a fire without matches and how to catch dinner?

Not a chance – I’m a city slicker, remember? › What is your tried and trusted signature dish you serve your friends?

Apart from rib-eye steaks, my only other dish is cheesed eggs – a recipe passed down through generations! › Given the choice and if it were up to you, what do you think we should do to

the people running the rhino horn trade?

I can’t say politely. › Beer or wine?

I’m not huge on wine. But 10% Danish Faxe beers are magic. Well just one maybe; they are rather strong… › Camping or luxury lodge?

I used to camp a lot in my bachelor days.

Two comfort rules – double walled tent and foam mattress. But Belinda and I have become Lodge Lizards, along with the obligatory G&T on the game drive. › Where do you and your family find the time to travel and, if so, where do you like to go?

We are an island tribe. So when time and bank balance permit, the Seychelles and Maldives are idyllic. Especially if you love diving and snorkelling. › As someone many people look up to, who did you see as your inspirational role model & who do you hold in high esteem?

Two big influences – my dad, who worked his way up from a boiler maker to being Chairman of the television network in Zimbabwe and Charlie Aust (a Captain at the time) who drove me to my physical and mental limit on infantry officer’s course. But I managed to overcome a strong case of NAFI syndrome and emerged a much stronger person. › You have been on Carte Blanche for a record 28-years. Do you still get a thrill out of going LIVE on television every week?

We have just celebrated our 29th Birthday! I now present in tandem with Bongani Bingwa and Devi Sankaree Govender, but it is still a somewhat nerve-wracking thrill.

The adage goes that when you are no longer nervous, it’s time to hang up your microphone!

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