EDUCATION Jared Reynolds
Hair Visions Education Center
Cosmo Prof Las Vegas 2018
Hair Club It’s All About People
The International Hair Authority
Volume 22 No 77
The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation
Hope for Alopecia
New York, 09/18--Pfizer Inc. has announced results from its Phase 2a study of an oral Janus kinase inhibitor, and a tyrosine kinase inhibitor in patients with moderate to severe alopecia areata. When tested against a placebo, both inhibitors met the primary efficacy endpoint in improving hair regrowth on the scalp relative to baseline at week 24. “People living with alopecia areata face a difficult journey as there are currently no approved treatments,” said study investigator Rodney Sinclair, MD. “The results seen with these JAK inhibitors are very encouraging for me as a clinician as they signal a potential new way to think about the treatment of alopecia, which may bring hope for patients with this distressing condition. “The findings were presented at the 27th European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV) Congress.
California Bans Animal Testing on Cosmetics
James V. Toscano August 5, 1949 - August 23, 2018
Jimmy, “The General” Toscano passed away on Thursday, August 23, 2018. He had been unwell for several months. Jimmy was an industry icon, famous for his technical and design skills which he shared freely at trade shows and conferences worldwide. A Funeral Mass was celebrated at Holy Family Church, West Newton, followed by military honors in West Newton Cemetery. Condolences may be left at http://www.mccauleyfuneralhomes.com.
California has banned the animal testing on cosmetics and the ingredients used in cosmetics. It is the first state to do so. Although hailed as a breakthrough, the US lags most other countries when it comes to animal rights. Already 40 other countries have banned animal testing on personal care prodiucs and China is expected to join them soon. The lack on anti-cruelty legislation in the US comes as a surprise given that a 2013 poll found that 73 percent of American voters would favor Congress passing legislation to phase out cosmetics testing.
Bosley Pulls Out All the Stops Beverly Hills, 08/18 - Bosley is holding nothing back. The company that bills itself as “The World’s Most Experienced Hair Restoration Expert” is putting all its muscle behind a Fall campaign that offers “More of a Good Thing” with “New, Non-Surgical Solutions.” These are described as “Trigen+ with Power Matrix PRP,” which translates to Platelet Rich Plasma, Bosley Professional Strength Strength Products and low-level laser light therapy. Hair transplants are not neglected either and are offered at 50% off. And for good measure, the company also offers Scalp Micropigmentation to “Help get the look of real hair.”
My name’s Bald, James Bald
The Sun, a News UK company, recently ran a front-page article titled ‘Bald Over’ which asked, “ Ever wondered what male celebs would look like if they shaved off their trademark locks?” They then showed artists impressions of what famous figures like David Beckam, Prince Harry and Daniel Craig would look like bald. 007’s caption was “Shaven and Stirred.” We like him better with hair! HairMax Enter s Laser Cap Mar ket Boca Raton, FL. 08/18 - Lexington Int’l has entered a new category in their laser device range with the introduction of its first cap device. The Laser 272 featuring BioLight Comfort Design, is marketed under the name ‘RegrowMD by HairMax’ (MD stands for Medical Device). This new addition to the HairMax® family expands the company’s laser portfolio and provides a wider array of treatment experiences. The RegrowMD Laser 272 is offered at $1499, half the price of many other cap devices.
China Hair Loss Market Exploding Hair treatment product sales are growing rapidly in China. Figures from JD.com, China’s biggest online platform, show that the sale of shampoos that help hair growth increased by 136 percent in the first quarter of 2018 compared with the same period a year ago. IHA
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
INNOVATION TO ADMIRE American Hairlines offers the ultimate solution in high-quality, non-surgical hair replacement for men and women where the latest technology meets unsurpassed style and versatility.
Open Fusion™ Technology Women’s bondless top of head system introduces our patent-pending Open Fusion technology, which places no stress on the hair and does not stunt hair growth.
Open Fusion™ Technology
Nano Knot ™ Technology
Offering more coverage than Integration Plus, this new, fine mono, top-of-head system features our patent-pending Open Fusion technology, or can be attached with clips or tape.
Men’s extended wear top of head system featuring exclusive Nano Knot technology that uses the smallest hand-tied knots possible.
Superbly crafted with fine lace knots, this top of head system for men is designed for extended wear. A perfect fit for your active clients.
Faster, easier, and more convenient with V-looped hair vented at a shorter length giving him amazing style in less time.
HAIRUWEAR.COM/AMERICAN-HAIRLINES | 888-766-6832 ©2018 HairUWear Inc. / AHL53706/06092018
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Editorial Celebrating the General – There will never be another “General.” Jimmy Toscano was a one-of-a-kind. Ebullient, talented, generous, he blazed a trail through the hair replacement market and his passing leaves a void that will be hard to fill. He was a close personal friend, and a frequent contributor to this newspaper. This was just one of the many ways he shared his talent with the industry. Jimmy lived for his clients who lined up (literally) outside his studio every day for the privilege of having him care for their hair. He was a no-nonsense, say it like it is, perfectionist. His life, talent and achievements are to be celebrated, not mourned. If he caught readers of this column moping around, he would tell us to get back behind the chair, there’s a client waiting! Jimmy, thank you for a lifetime of giving, talent and companionship. Boardroom Cooperation, Finally – We have just completed a tour of several of the top hair management companies in the United States and it was very different. For the first time, CEOs were talking about cooperation, setting industry standards and cross marketing. Never once was a competitor criticized. The industry has matured from a collection of family businesses trying to outmaneuver each other into serious corporations backed by substantial financial, marketing and research expertise. This bodes well for a niche market that for too long has lived on its laurels. Hair replacement now finds itself under attack from three powerful sources, medical innovations that are becoming more affordable, a cosmetic industry that is targeting an aging population, and new technologies that may prevent or reverse hair loss. It’s time to pull together. Qualifications That Sell – We have frequently taken space in this column to emphasize just how disturbing hair loss can be. We have quoted statistics that indicate it is as emotionally disturbing as a death in the family or loss of a job. So, it goes without saying that helping turn lives around is a hugely satisfying, but high-risk enterprise. As with all deeply personal procedures, ours is a zero-tolerance business. You cannot get hair replacement half right, or even 95% right. We’re in a zero-tolerance business. That’s why this publication is concerned that beauticians and cosmetologists without serious and extensive training are now being encouraged to think about adding hair replacement to their spas and salons. History tells us that it only takes one or two well-publicized disasters for the entire industry to get tarnished. Readers may remember the embarrassment of the earlier Budweiser campaign or the not so funny jokes on the late-night Letterman show. Luckily, our improved standards and commitment to education has put that cheap humor behind us, but we are under threat again. So how do we separate the true professionals from the wannabes? By creating a deeply respected professional standard of performance and ethics. To bring this about, The World Trichology Society
and the International Hair Authority have joined forces to create a certification program that will direct the public to committed professionals. David Kingsley PhD explains this program in the Trichology Page elsewhere in this paper. We support this program and believe it is a powerful way to separate professionals who have committed time, money and many years to develop their skills and who deserve special recognition. Are Your Products Safe? There is continued concern in the personal-care market about the safety of ingredients that have been used for years, but are now coming under the microscope. The website “Cosmetics Design – Asia” recently ran two lead articles, “Why Are We Finding Lead in Cosmetics?” and “How Safe Are Cosmetics?” In the second article, Belinda Carli, Dir., Institute of Personal-Care Science comments, “Consumers want to feel safe! There is too much misinformation on the Internet, and this quickly convinces them that they need to avoid certain chemicals.” She goes on to point out that some companies use “fear” campaigns to sell their products and disparage their competitors. She urges operators to close down campaigns that run on misinformation and fear and promote education. She urges the industry to create consumer-friendly websites that provide full information and links to other informative sources. This concern about chemical ingredients runs parallel to the growing desire for sustainable products and all-natural ingredients. A quick review of recent hair care products underscores this trend. The Authority became aware of this at the recent CosmoProf show in Las Vegas and readers can expect to see more “safe” and “earth friendly” products in our pages in the months ahead. Where the Action Is – The laser segment of the market continues to be very active with huge advertising and marketing efforts by Capillus, a new laser cap device from HairMax and the launch of a hip social media campaign from the same company. Bosley has included light therapy in an aggressive cross-marketing promotion featuring PRP and TriGen+, its collection of private label professional strength products. At the same time, the Bosley offered hair transplants at 50% off for a limited time, while continuing to pitch its new micro-pigmentation service. Meanwhile, Hair Visions is completing the build out of its new education center which we feature in this issue. We are also bringing you an update from Hair Club, the locomotive that for many years has been pulling the hair replacement train. Hair Club is on the move and we’ll tell you what that means shortly. The Hair Authority has also recently reconnected with New Image Labs and we hope to bring you an update from West Palm Beach in our next issue. In summary, this is a dynamic time that is bringing new energy and vision to the hair-management market.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
A New Level of Customer Support In our last issue, The International Hair Authority introduced readers to HairVisions new international headquarters. Today, we go behind-the-scenes to show you those new offices and, in particular, the training center that is being built out to provide a new level of educational support.
Hair Visions’ new offices
As you might expect, everything is crisp, modern and efficient looking. We were greeted by Brenda and waited on the black leather sofa to be escorted down the corridor to David Schwartz’s corner office which looks onto the landscaped grounds outside. It is a calm, purposeful office, much like the CEO himself. David explained that his priority was to struc-
The offices themselves are located on a pleasant tree-lined Avenue approximately 5 mile from the original On Rite/Hair Visions facility on NW 33rd Ave. It may be only less than one mile away, but it is a different world. You enter the modern building through two glass swing doors and then turn left into Hair Visions’ reception. Reception
ture the office space so as to facilitate teamwork and staff interaction. This is part of the company’s philosophy of flattening the management structure and empowering staff members from every discipline to contribute to business development and customer service. Focus on Education - The new Education Center is on the second floor and occupies 3,500 ft. There is a lounge area where participants can take a break, exchange information and socialize. And then there is the training center itself which has different zones, each dedicated to a specific function. For example, there is one area that mimics a typical studio with styling chairs, sinks and all the facilities a technician would expect. It is here that the hands-on demonstrations will take place. Then there is a classroom area, built to accommodate a large audience and this “zone” is equipped with audiovisual tools and everything necessary to make presentations, host guest speakers and instructors or even organize special events.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Fully equipped classroom
Finally, Hair Visions has constructed a special “creative” studio area where models can pose for photographs in a professional setting or for videos that can be filmed both for the company and even for customers websites or blogs. The size of the educational Center illustrates the importance Hair Visions attaches to customer support. In today’s increasingly sophisticated market, it is more important than ever to acquire, and maintain, advanced technical skills. And just as importantly, those skills have to be photographed or filmed and shared with the public. Hair Vision’s, has a history of providing sales and marketing materials, but this investment in a brand-new Learning Center takes customer support to a whole new level.
Here is the team that is putting it all together: Top: left to right: David Schwartz, Renny Nava, Darryl Graham, Lance Centofanti, Brian Freedman, Steve Levy, Bob Rogers Bottom: Michelle Perez, Christine Graham, Bettina Shukat, Dana Sailsman IHA
Stay informed – Subscribe to The Hair Authority Get vital industry news delivered to your doorstep. Don’t miss an issue, subscribe today. Email: email@example.com and tell us how to contact you… Call 626-709-6397… Or cut out and return this form to the address below:
Please bill me for my subscription to The International Hair Authority:
Subscriber’s Name: ________________________________________ Business Name: ________________________________________________________________ Address: ______________________________________________________________ City: ___________________________ State: ________Zip: __________ Ph: ( ) _____- ______ Fax:( ) _____ - ________ Email: ______________________________ The International Hair Authority 39252 Winchester Rd., # 307-383, Murrieta, CA 92563
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Passion, Technology and Attention to Detail Inside Capillus‘ New Headquarters
ow far we have come! The laser market is now well established and even the most skeptical professionals accept that light therapy can grow hair, as demonstrated by a series of clinical trials. And when the top cosmetic surgery group and the top franchise group in the country offer lasers, it’s time to admit that laser therapy not only works but is also a logical companion to most other therapies and procedures. The laser market has been particularly active in the last 12 months, but some brands have been more active than others! In fact, one brand has been marketing so aggressively it’s hard NOT to see it, whether you’re reading an airline magazine at 30,000 feet, browsing the web or walking down the aisle at Costco. That brand is Capillus and the Hair Authority was recently invited to visit their new facility in Miami to meet the team behind all this activity.
The cavalry charges in Carlos Pina’s office
The man behind the dream- Capillus was founded by Carlos Pina, a dynamic CEO whom we have interviewed before in these pages. But we have never met him on home turf. So, we were interested to see if the man we had met at trade shows around the world had the same energy and enthusiasm when the suitcases were unpacked, and he was back behind his desk. The answer was obvious when he bounded to the door, greeted us with a vigorous handshake and marched us back to his Carlos gives guided tour
office and announced that he had briefed a photographer to accompany us as we walked around his offices, so we would have photographs of everything. And that’s exactly what happened. Every time we stopped or turned to look at something more closely, the photographer captured the moment. Passion - There is no hiding the passion Carlos brings to his business. He is anxious to show and share everything. He is proud of what the company has achieved and wants everyone to know about it. Perhaps this is because he came to the
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
The photo studio
United States as a refugee from Cuba and had to work twice as hard to get ahead. And perhaps it’s just the power of his personality, but Carlos is one of those people who believes in handshakes, slaps on the back Better than a standard green screen and bear hugs. Enjoy - if you’re going to work this hard, you’d better enjoy it, and marketing at Capillus is more of an adventure than a job. This is reflected not only in the offices which Carlos designed himself and which reflect his perAdvertising wall of fame sonality, but also in a picture hanging on the wall which shows a cavalry unit fearlessly charging into battle. The offices themselves are modern, stylish and equipped with state-of-the-art technology. There is even a design studio with digital printing equipment that would not be out of place at a dedicated printer. Then there is the stockroom with an aqua floor to match the company logo. Not to mention custom artwork in all the public areas that was designed in house. Stockroom floor in Capillus blue
Custom artwork in conference room
Involve everyone - If we talk a lot about Carlos it is because he is such a dominant personality. But it would be wrong to give the impression that this is a one-man show. Far from it. Capillus is very much a team effort and the company goes to great lengths to make sure that everyone is recognized and known to be important. Every office and every section in the building has an individual title or name posted outside. If you work in customer service, there is a sign flagging your specialty. And the same is true of research, production, quality control, you name it. Company business cards are personal too; they not only show your name and title, but they show your individual photo too. All manufacturing is carried out in Miami and it is clear that this is very much a team effort with each person de-
Special areas – special names
pendent upon and trusting the one who went before. Importance of branding - Readers of this column who have an MBA or who read any marketing materials would have been bombarded with articles stressing the importance of branding, and this is something Capillus has turned into a fine art. The mission statement, brand slogan, colors, font and typeface – all the intellectual properties are carefully catalogued and respected in everything from the packaging to the website, even to the company’s interior design. And, get this, the Cont’d Pg 8
you are reading a magazine, surfing the web, checking your text messages, browsing Facebook or other social media, it is impossible not to come face-to-face with Capillus. We don’t know, and were too polite to ask, the actual sum being invested, but we did see a dynamic company that is growing by leaps and bounds and exhibiting all the signs of commercial success.
color of the floor in the stockroom! This all stems from the fact that Carlos not only has a strong business profile, but was also trained as an architect and is passionate about design. In fact, at one point in our interview he picked up a copy of the Hair Authority and began making suggestions about our page layout!
Invest what’s needed - it is fine to be passionate about your product, and even finer to have good marketing skills, but none of that means anything unless you have the resources to take that product to market. Capillus is investing millions of dollars in promotion and advertising and has achieved remarkable brand awareness in a short period of time. Whether
Not just money – time too – It’s not just about the media investment. Capillus is commited to educating the world on the benifits of laser therapy. Every company has to have a physical presence and Carlos Pina is in a plane almost as much as he is at his desk. In just the last six months, The Hair Authority has met with him at a Dermatology Conference in San Diego, CosmoProf in Las Vegas and exchanged photos from Hong Kong. Growing a new business is as much a physical effort as it is mental. We thank Capillus for inviting us to visit their new Miami offices, meet their staff and admire their stamina! IHA
AVAILABLE FOR SALONS & PHYSICIAN CENTERS
H E L P H A I R LOSS C L I E N TS
G E N E R AT E R E V E N U E •
A revolutionary introduction to the market for those who offer in-office low-level laser treatments to hair loss clients. It features more lasers than any other FDA-Cleared clinical device - 352 laser diodes - for an incomparable price
Provides an affordable method of treating thinning hair. It also provides clients an opportunity to experience the benefits of laser therapy. After a few weeks of treatment, the initial results of LLLT stimulation from the OfficePro clinical unit may be seen and an easy transition to the home-use laser therapy caps can be made for more convenience.
Simple procedure where the user sits comfortably under the device, similar to the process of a salon hood dryer. Patients can generally be treated in a few weekly sessions. The treatment can be used in conjunction with the portable home-use device and other therapies. Clients simply need to frequent their clinics as they would for a manicure appointment.
FDA Clearance Statement: The Capillus OfficePro™ is intended for the promotion of hair growth in females with androgenic alopecia who have Ludwig-Savin Classifications I-II, and in males with androgenic alopecia who have Norwood Hamilton Classifications IIa-V; and both genders having Fitzpatrick Classification of Skin Phototypes I to IV.
Clinical Treatment Device
Administered by Professionals
Most Coverage of any Clinical Laser Hair Regrowth
• Clinical Use • 352 5mW Laser Diodes • 1760mW Total Output (Continuous Wave) • 2.3 mW/cm2 Fluence
HOME-USE LASER CAPS ALSO AVAILABLE FROM CAPILLUS
The Capillus OfficePro™, as well as all our home-use laser therapy caps, now feature our new flexible fitting comfort.
LEARN MORE OR GET STARTED WITH CAPILLUS + 1 (786) 800-3366 • WWW.CAPILLUS.COM CAPILLUS, LLC - 1715 NW 82 AVE, MIAMI, FL 33126, USA +1 786 888-6249 - THE CAPILLUS NAME & LOGO ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF CAPILLUS, LLC. PATENT PENDING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. * CAPILLUS LASER THERAPY DEVICES ARE INTENDED FOR THE PROMOTION OF HAIR GROWTH IN FEMALES WITH ANDROGENIC ALOPECIA WHO HAVE LUDWIG-SAVIN CLASSIFICATIONS I – II, AND IN MALES WITH ANDROGENETIC ALOPECIA WHO HAVE NORWOOD HAMILTON CLASSIFICATIONS IIA-V; AND BOTH GENDERS HAVING FITZPATRICK CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN PHOTOTYPES I TO IV. EFFICACY DEMONSTRATED IN CAPILLUS CLINICAL TRIAL. SEE CLINICALTRIALS.GOV FOR MORE INFORMATION. ALL CAPILLUS LASER DEVICES ARE MANUFACTURED IN THE USA FROM FOREIGN SOURCED RAW MATERIALS. *ISO13485:2003: CANADA : MEDICAL DEVICES REGULATIONS – PART 1- SOR 98/282 AND UNITED STATES : 21 CFR 820, 21 CFR 803, 21 CFR 806, 21 CFR 807 (SUBPARTS A TO D). THE SCOPE OF THE AUDIT ENCOMPASSES THE DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT, MANUFACTURE, SERVICE, AND SUPPORT OF DEVICES UTILIZING LASER DIODES FOR HAIR (RE)GROWTH PROMOTION.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Hair Club 2018
Future Home of Hair Club Headquarters
It’s All About People
Since Hair Club was first launched by Sy Sperling in 1976, the company has helped more than 600,000 people restore their hair. Hair Club now boasts nearly 120 locations throughout the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. In 2013, the company was acquired by Tokyo-based Aderans Co. Ltd, which also owns Bosley, allowing the group to offer a suite of surgical and non-surgical hair loss solutions. As it celebrates its 42nd anniversary, the company is expanding its corporate headquarters and will be relocating to the former Interstate Plaza office building in Boca Raton, Florida, where it plans to create a modern and collaborative environment for its more than 120 local corporate staff members, including more than 60 contact center agents. Hair Authority has interviewed every incoming Hair Club president and our meeting with President and COO Mike Nassar was overdue. To our surprise and delight, we were invited to join his management team at a special luncheon the company organizes regularly to recognize staff contributions and important achievements. The team spirit was palpable and when we did our own research back home, we were not surprised to see it reflected in comments and reviews online at glassdoor.com. The following is just one example of an employee review, “They truly care about their employees. The perks of the job are amazing and there is always so much to celebrate. This company promotes a team culture and the best Hair Club’s Reception part is that we change lives daily by helping others regain their hair!” Hair Authority: Mike, thank you for inviting us to join you at clients. We made a huge investment in providing what we call your staff luncheon today. It told us more about the company the ultimate employee experience(UEE) and we see the benethan we would have discovered in a regular interview. The old fits now in staff loyalty and level of commitment. When you Hair Club was founded on a powerful personality, and that one have a dedicated staff, you have happy customers. personality drove the business. But that’s not what we saw today. Hair Authority: After lunch, we heard everybody recite a Hair Tell us about the new Hair Club. Club chant or mantra. What Interviewing Hair Club’s President and COO, Mike Nassar Mike Nassar: The first thing I was that?? want everyone to know is that MN: They were saying, “We are we’ve simplified the name. InHair Club, We represent Hair stead of Hair Club for Men Club.” It’s part of our culture. and later, Hair Club for Men & In this day and age, employee Women, we’re now Hair Club, engagement can be a challenge. and we’re here for anyone dealOur employees feel like they’re ing with hair loss. The other part of something bigger than change you touched on is our just themselves. They’re part of the whole Hair Club organizafocus on our staff. Our employtion, so we get a high level of ees make things happen for our
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
engagement and huge progoing somewhere else. ductivity. And we all benefit Hair Authority: Why is this Management Philosophy from it. still a fragmented industry Hair Authority: That reflects that never created a coorOur greatest mission as the Aderans Group is to dinated campaign to create Aderans’ philosophy. promote overall wellness through our hair-related, broad consumer awareness MN: Yes, it’s Sampo Yoshi beauty and health business. We aim to help clients and grow the market? and it means a commitment worldwide attain physical and emotional wellbeing. MN: I’m not sure. I have to employees, a commitment We also aim to bring smiles to faces, so they can been talking to competitors to clients and a commitment fulfill their dreams and live full, happy lives. since I first started with the to community. We had been company, and I’ve continued thinking that way for a numthe dialogue now as the presber of years prior to our acident. The good news is my phone seems to ring more often, quisition by Aderans, but when we became part of Aderans, and I’m finding we do have a lot of common ground. These it really emphasized and bolstered our idea of helping others shouldn’t be negative relationships. We can all have a friendly, and giving back to the community. These commitments have competitive relationship and still succeed in the marketplace. become even more of a focus for us over the last two or three Competitors can colyears. laborate and make Hair Authority: The formula appears to be working because improvements togethHair Club is doing very well at a time when the industry overer, whether it’s in a all is consolidating. Is there another marketing secret? market, a certain geMN: We’ve been in growth mode since I’ve been here, which ography or even counis a little over 13 years now. I know Hair Club has always try-wide. The problem had a growth mentality, so it’s not something I brought to the today is one of fragcompany. In fact, we’ve only closed two locations in the last 13 mentation among the Hair Club’s National Contact Center years. The company has grown every single year for a number smaller competitors. of years now. We’ve even opened 19 centers in just the last four It’s sort of an ‘every man or woman for himself or herself ’ years alone. environment. I think we can change that if we talk about it openly. “The public is looking for hair loss experts Hair Authority: In other product categories there are standards and measurements for performance. To take a parallel inbut have no way to identify who is dustry like dentistry, the American Dental Association grants qualified to help them.” an official seal of approval to brands that can demonstrate superior performance. That’s how Crest became the market leader. But the hair replacement industry has no standards of any kind. Do you think that leaves us vulnerable? Hair Authority: It used to be that the best thing that could MN: Cosmetology standards are mostly governed by states, happen to a local hair replacement studio was to have a Hair but I do think the hair replacement category could hold itself Club open on the other side of the road. Things are different more accountable. It’s done well on the surgical side through now. Those crumbs from the rich man’s table are not so plenthe ISHRS and I’m sure most dermatologists that people see tiful. What changed? for hair loss belong to a professional, accredited group. HowMN: There’s always going be competition in every industry. ever, we don’t do that on the hair replacement side. We’re comBut I think we can have friendly competition that makes evpletely separate from salons that don’t do hair replacement, eryone better because with more than 90 million people in and we don’t talk enough about our specialists’ skills. It’s a North America experiencing hair loss, there’s enough business GIVE is part of Hair Club’s Culture, supporting the Ultimate Employee for all of us. We are a prominent advertiser for the entire inExperience as well as the Ultimate Client Experience dustry, whether our competition wants to believe that or not. When we advertise Hair Club or promote other hair loss and restoration search terms, the whole industry benefits. By us simply being on the internet or TV and telling people to look for hair replacement or hair restoration—or any number of hair therapies—we end up building the market for everyone. Our high volume of advertising is feeding the entire industry, not just Hair Club. Out of the 90+ million people experiencing hair loss, we may get 200,000 leads per year… the rest are Cont’d Pg 12
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
bridge we need to build because the pubthat has changed completely. Once upon lic is looking for hair loss experts but have a time, even hair extensions used to be a no way to identify who is qualified to help private affair; women who wore hair exthem. tensions didn’t tell other people about Hair Authority: The medical field sufthem. Now you can go on any social mefers from a similar problem. Hair transdia platform and see pictures of women plantation is seeing people entering the flaunting their extensions all the time. So, field who have little or no surgical trainI think we can go that same route. At Hair ing. They may have come from a trauma Club, we’re trying to make it more about background or even be a dentist. Worse your “after” look than your “before” yet, the arrival of computer assisted delook. Whatever your “before” situation vices like the ARTAS system allows docwas really shouldn’t matter. It’s all about tors to offload critical surgery to assistants your life after restoring your hair. We without specialized training. In response, Rich Narcisi, Hair Club’s Senior Vice President of provide solutions to help you get there. Franchise Operations & Corporate Development ISHRS has established itself as THE eduWhether it’s preventative, adding hair or cational authority on surgical hair restoration. Their mission is even complete restoration, we offer something for everyone. providing education, setting standards and accrediting doctors We customize solutions to give you the best hair you can poswith specialized hair restoration skills. Which prompts the sibly have. question, isn’t it time that we did the same thing for the hair Hair Authority: We flippantly asked at lunch today, if the replacement market? hair fairy granted you one wish, what would it be? MN: Many companies, including Hair Club, have talked MN: Simple. It’s getting what we do to be more mainstream about trichology and some of them have already jumped into and better received by the public. We want people of every age it. In North America, trichology isn’t as big of a deal as it is in and demographic to feel comfortable contacting us—because Europe—yet. Many of our European competitors will tell you we have solutions for everyone. It could be an 18-year-old that every single one of their employees is a certified tricholwho has just started to thin and sees his dad losing almost all ogist, and we could probably learn from them. This could be his hair. We’d like to help that young person early on instead a smart way for our industry to step up operations, increase of them waiting until they lose professionalism and be more of an authority on hair loss. their hair. The whole concept of Hair Authority: Subscribers to The Hair Authority include personal care and overall wellhair replacement studios, hair restoration clinics, even drug ness needs to come into play. companies like Merck. What would you would like them to Clients who come in for hair reknow about Hair Club? placement aren’t just concerned MN: Hair Club is a company that’s shown steady and conabout their hair. They’re going sistent growth for the last 42 years. Nowadays, we’ve made it to a plastic surgeon, they’re goour mission behind the scenes to start working on ways to ining to weight loss centers, they’re novate for the business and the industry. There are still people going to gyms. We need to be With Frank DeCarlo, Hair Club’s Vice President of Production and who look down on what we do. They call us “just a toupee part of that universe. It all has to Research company”. I use the word “just” because that’s how they refer come together so people can be to us. They don’t understand how much we impact people’s the best versions of themselves. lives. We do that every day, and whether it’s Hair Club or any Hair Authority: So, you believe hair replacement is not just one of our competitors, we are making a difference in the lives a thinning hair solution, it’s part of a lifestyle. of others. It’s about more than just hair. It’s about changing MN: Absolutely. We sometimes get a bad rap because peothe way our clients experience life. I think it’s about time that ple think we “force” our clients into programs or memberwe as an industry step out into the open and share this inforships, but we’re actually making it easier for our clients. For mation with the public. We all need to come together to do a monthly fee, they can get anything and everything they that. want in terms of their style, the number of visits or services Hair Authority: Part of our problem might be that we are they want and the number of new hair systems they want per still victims of the old language and the old imagery. At The year. That’s the beauty of it. Nobody is ever forced into a serHair Authority, we flinch when we hear somebody talk about vice plan. When a client chooses Hair Club, we become their a “piece”. Is it time to reinvent ourselves, come up with new full-service salon and part of their overall lifestyle. Visiting imagery, more attractive language, create a new vocabulary? Hair Club becomes like going to the gym. We’re now part of MN: Absolutely, and there are ways to do that. We’ve got to their self-care routine. speak in the customer’s language. There was a time when plasHair Authority: As one of the biggest purchasers of hair, we tic surgery wasn’t something you talked about openly. Now, have to ask, is the industry running out of hair?
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018 MN: I visited all our factories in March. It was a seven-country tour and I can tell you they have plenty of inventory. They’re getting calls all the time from hair wholesalers and brokers and they assure me that we’re not running out of hair. What they couldn’t assure me of is the quality of the hair and whether that’s going to decline or improve. Unfortunately, I suspect hair quality will decline as more people copy western fashions by coloring and processing their hair before donating it.
“Hair Club is a company that’s shown steady and consistent growth for the last 42 years.” Hair Authority: What is the biggest challenge facing Hair Club today? MN: Our biggest challenge is getting people to come through the door. We need to find new ways to communicate with today’s consumers. Gen X, Gen Y and Gen Z have different motivations compared to the clients we’ve had on board for the last 40+ years. How do we motivate a new generation to come in, so we can help them with their hair loss? Obviously, the increasing cost of hair, the cost of facilities and the rising cost of labor aren’t helping, but we can offset that with better marketing that makes it less scary for people to come in. The first time somebody visits us, they don’t know what they’re getting into because we don’t explain the hair application process in our advertising. It may not be glamorous to do that, but the world is changing. There are personal products being sold openly today that people would have been embarrassed to be seen with five or ten years ago. We have to move in that same direction in order to capture a wider audience. Hair Authority: Any final comments? MN: There’s plenty of opportunity for expansion in the industry. A cure for hair loss doesn’t really exist yet and more and more people are going to need our help. We have to position ourselves as a caring industry that can help people…and we should give back to society. Hair Authority: It’s a very fertile market. Our challenge has been we’ve never known how to connect with it. MN: Absolutely, and I think that’s key. We’ve got to connect to the consumer, but we’re not seeing it yet. The person who needs our services isn’t coming into Hair Club. We have to figure out how to get them to come in, so we can show them everything we can do for them. Hair Authority: The walled garden which protected hair replacement for so many years no longer exists. It was good while it was there. But now the walls are down, and the medical/cosmetic/pharmaceutical companies are eyeing an aging population that used to be our home base. MN: I believe we need to cultivate a bigger garden. IHA
Letter to the Editor Dear Editor, I am writing to share memories of my partner, my mentor, my friend - Jimmy Toscano. I went for a walk today. The world felt different. Changed. There was a huge missing piece of my life’s puzzle. A friend of the highest order with a heart as big as all outdoors. No one came to Jimmy without leaving better. It’s a reminder that the measure of someone’s life is not it’s duration but it’s donation. There are really no words to convey the height of his talents and the beauty of his heart. Jimmy was the one who gave you the credit for what he did and inspired us all through his example. He had a clarity of purpose that was contagious. As friends Jimmy never let distance diminish our bond; we talked daily. Two fast-track career-oriented guys became intertwined in a friendship that would alter our destinies. Professional Hair labs would not be the company it is today without the dedication to education at its core and the incredible talents Jimmy owned as an educator and was willing to demonstrate through his teaching. Yes, my friend Jimmy was a one-of-a-kind. He has left a lasting mark in the lives of so many in our industry. His legacy will forever burn bright at the new Jimmy the General Toscano Professional Hair Labs Learning Center. Rest in Peace Marine! Howard Margolin Founder, CEO, Professional Hair Labs.
$$ Business for Sale $$
Hair Enhancement, PRP Treatment & Hair Transplantation Business for Sale. This is a well staffed business with impeccable reputation established over several decades. This Ohio business has revenues close to a million dollars. Asking $650K. Please Email: Elias.Ladon@EnterpriseDR.com or Call/Text: 216-295-1136
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
COSMOPROF North America & NAHA Celebrate Beauty Week! By Larry Oskin
Beauty Week remains an annual celebration of new global salon services, products, education, honors and awards. With over 40,000 attendees and 1,415 exhibitors at the Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas, with international representatives from 56 countries outside of the United States this year. Sharing the new rebound for the professional beautycare industry, this is a refreshing healthy growth of over 10% from 2017. This is the big event to be at, especially for manufacturers, distributors, salon chains and every award-winning hair designer! Whether you are strategically focused into hair, skin, nails, spa, hair loss, hair restoration, wigs and hair extensions, this unique B2B event offers you the opportunity to look at whatâ€™s new Mandaley Bay Hotel in every beautycare category. For three plus days, participants fully immersed themselves in all things beauty and walked away with unparalleled new business building education, tools, products, services and connections. Even Paris Hilton was personally on hand to launch her new Paris Hilton Skincare System with help from the Harlan Kirshner Group. Peter Shehan
Ask The Experts: Exhibitors and attendees had the unique opportunity to gain valuable insight from leading industry executives as part of their new Ask the Expert series. Pre-selected industry experts answered pressing questions related to merchandising, product stability and claims, exporting, SEO and much more. Attendees who were look-
ing for a deeper subject dive experienced another impressive conference lineup which included speakers from Pinterest, Facebook, Barnes & Noble, Aveda, Nordstrom, IPSY and others. The EntrepreParis Hilton Skin Care neur Academy returned, offering a fresh series of workshops focused on everything one needs to know to run a successful beauty business. Beauty Pitch: Those looking to accelerate their businesses were offered new initiatives created to help brands scale up. Beauty
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
The Keranique Team
Hair Art Invisi-Toppers
Pitch: Angels, is one program that kicked off this year to allow smaller to medium sized companies a chance to meet face-toface with leading angel investors and secure potential funding. London-based Founders Factory had a lounge dedicated in the Interactive Technology area.
Many other exciting upcoming and new company brands were on the show floor inclusive of Groh, Keranique, 18.21 Man Made Grooming, Ricardo Rojas, American Wave by Nick Arrojo and Royal Kis Haircare from the Netherlands. Gina and Jason Rivera of Phenix Salon Suites launched her elegant new By Gina Haircare System. Networking & Education: Beauty Week in Las Vegas is the perfect summation of what the Professional Beauty Association aims to offer members and the professional beauty industry with first rate educational opportunities, senior level business networking and special events that celebrate the accomplishments of our industry leaders.
New Presentations, Products & Press Previews: Peter Sheahan of the Karrikins Group was this year’s keynote speaker, who addressed how to successfully achieve accelerated growth. Steve Sleeper, PBA’s Executive Director also addressed the audience with association and industry updates. Twenty- Nine companies made new company and new product launches at a special press luncheon event, where you could personally meet with the owners. Bijoux de Pele, Biovene Barcelona, Cirem, Mending Moon, YouthBoost, HCR, DabaHair, Eyra Cosmetics, Fay Brush, For Beloved One, Fromm Inter-
“Hair extensions are still an extremely important and growing salon service category!” national, Generation 9, Hey Honey, KocoStar, Linda Paradis Group, Little Green, Lumisque, Macbeth Collection, Ms. W, MY Haircare, O’O, OMM Collection, Pili Ani, Purvari, Razor Edge, Rejuvenate & Andmetics, Rezke, Reviv3 ,ProCare and Rocco Donna Professional all celebrated with great success.
Hairdo Draws Traffic
Exciting Focus & Trends ~ Hair Extensions, Wigs, Hair Pieces & Eyelash Extensions: The Cosmoprof show floor was once again robust with exciting new trends, hair loss / hair restoration services and product innovations. Hair extensions are still an Vivienne Mackinder extremely important and growing salon service category! There were more than 20 hair extension companies represented, showing this trend is here to stay with beautiful hair enhancement and hair replacement solutions Cont’d Pg 16
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018 be innovatively invented and re-invented for salon professionals to use and share with salon clients for use between salon visits.
Dramatic Platform Displays
– including these hair extension companies: Amazing Hair, Beauty Farmer’s, CosmoHair, EBIN New York, Eve Hair, Hair Art, HairUWear, Jixi Golden, Joya Mia, Juancheng Guanwei Hair, Kirshner Group, Platinum Seamless, Gingdao Chanz International, Gingdao Jifa Group, Red Cherry, Seamless, Sutra Beauty, Tish & Snooky’s Manic Panic and Wuxi Joyray International. Hair extensions are not disappearing! This important hair fashion trend will be around for a while, so there is still time to take advantage of this fashion phenomena while it is still hot! The show floor was definitely filled with more dozens of professional wigs, hair replacement, hair fiber and hair bonding companies as well as many diverse new professional hair loss, hair graft, hair piece and eyelash extension products. This market is still expected to remain explosive over the next years with both Millennials and Baby Boomers and many other factors that are bringing hair loss clients to the forefront, while they desire new solutions from salon professionals.
Deborah Carver Honored at City of Hope Gala: This formal black-tie event was celebrated during PBA Beauty Week in support of the City of Hope Hospital and Research Center with their mission to fight cancer, diabetes, HIV/AIDS and other life-threatening diseases. Deborah Carver, Publisher and CEO of all Creative Age Publications was honored with the City of Hope -- Spirit of Life Award. Carver was recognized for her successful publications, business contributions as well as her extensive charitable efforts and community outreach. City of Hope is an independent biomedical research, treatment and educational institution dedicated to the prevention and cure of diabetes, cancer and life-threatening diseases.
Seaberry Launches Obliphica
Natural haircolor, airEric Zorn brush makeup, specialty oil-based products, organic and naturally based products are quickly rising in popularity while environmentally friendly new devices like hair brushes, appliances and salon tools continue to
PBA Beacon: The best and brightest cosmetology students from across North America are accepted into the PBA Beacon program each year. This is designed to offer them the opportunity to network with and learn from some of the most successful salon/spa owners in the industry. PBA Beacon students had the special opportunity to be inspired at NAHA 2018.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
2018 Annual NAHA Awards: NAHA – The North American Hairstylist’s Awards celebrated this 29th year as part of PBA Beauty Week at Cosmoprof 2018 in Las Vegas, Nevada. Still considered the Academy Awards of the professional beauty business, this really is the biggest trade show designed expressly for manufacturers, distributors, beauty sales reps and top hair designers! In addition to the presentation Steven Sleeper Award Given To Ruben Carranza of the awards, the high-energy event featured artistic presentations. Finalists and attendees mixed and mingled with other guests and celebrities at the red-carpet cocktail party reception event with NAHA 2018 with celebrity TV host Tabatha Coffey. This year’s event featured amazing artistic presentations by Mio Sota of Goldwell, the KMS California Team, Ulta Beauty’s Pro Team, Living Proof and Team Aveda with special guests and endless inspirations. Silas Tsang – Avant Garde, Blushes | Ottawa, ON Mandy MacFadden – Editorial Session / Hairstylist Of TheYear, Salon Decorum | Newmarket, ON Lori Zabel – Haircolor, San Diego, CA Rodrigo Araneda – Haircutting, Olab Coiffeurs Salon | Montreal, QC Danielle Keasling – Hairstylist Of The Year, Salon Karma | Bluffton, SC Silas Tsang – Master Hairstylist Of The Year, Blushes | Ottawa, ON Jamie DiGrazia – Men’s Hairstylist Of The Year, Logan Parlor | Chicago, IL Lori Zabel – People’s Choice Award, San Diego, CA Studio So Lara – Salon / School Design Of The Year, Guelph, ON Frank Cini – Hairstyling & Finishing, TAZ HAIR CO | Toronto, ON Beauty Underground – Salon Team Of The Year, Littleton, CO Michelle O’Connor – Texture Hair Designer Of The Year, The Salon By InStyle JCP | North Miami, FL Sarah Nguyen – Nail Professional of The Year, Ammon Carver Studio | New York, NY David Maderich – Makeup Artist of The Year, David Maderich Makeup | New York, NY Reno Prezio – Newcomer Hairstylist of The Year, Bellus Academy | Valley Center, CA Ali Haller – Student Hairstylist of The Year, Aveda Institute Denver | Highlands Ranch, CO Cont’d Pg 20
Nothing simulates human hair like
CYBERHAIR • • • • • •
Super lightweight Heat-resistant Colorfast Style memory, never needs re-curling European, Asian & Textured deniers Maintenance free
Cyberhair has been the preferred solution for hair replacement experts for over 17 years. Custom and stock hair systems and wigs for men, women and children. Don’t wait any longer! Limited exclusive territories are still available. Cyberhair, the original solution for your human hair needs and still the best. In order to be fully appreciated, Cyberhair needs to be touched. Compare for yourself. Call us today to see a sample! m i c ro p o i n t l i n k . c o m • c y b e r h a i r 1 . c o m p r i va te i s s u e by c y b e r h a i r. c o m internationalhairgoods.com | 1.800.328.6182 At International Hairgoods, we continually strive to offer you, the professional, the highest quality and newest solutions in hair restoration.
FIND US ON Facebook.com/Cyberhair Twitter.com/Inthair
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
When Technology & Beauty Merge... ..to Create Hair Art
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
A division of Hairart
THE REVOLUTION HAS JUST BEGUN... The First Luxurious Tapeless-Glueless Wig Made with 100% Virgin European Hair for Active Lifestyles.
SUSAN SIL-STAY Handmade with Skin Top. Silicone Panels for extra grip. Designed for Women with Total Hair Loss.
SUSAN SIL-ACTIVE Handmade with Skin Top. Silicone outlining for secure grip. Inspired for Women with Partial Hair Loss.
Roberto Gonzalez, Sales Director Nancy Beltran, Account Executive
www.HouseOfEuropeanHair.com / firstname.lastname@example.org Headquarters: 400 W. 157th St. Gardena, California 90248
1-888-HAIRART (888-424-7278) @houseofeuropeanhair facebook.com/houseofeuropeanhair youtube.com/hairartproducts
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
The Original Water Based Adhesive Our ﬁrst high-performance, affordable adhesive contains no harsh chemicals, no toxic ingredients, and no latex so you can feel conﬁdent that you will get a superior hold that is safe and gentle to your skin.
• • • •
Water Resistant Properties High Temperature Resistance Oil & Sweat Control 4 Week Hold
New All-Natural, GROH
2019 NAHA Awards: The celebrated North American Hairstyling Awards will be moving to January 26 to 28, 2019 as part of the PBA’s International Salon & Spa Expo in Long Beach, CA. Cosmoprof Packaging: Packaging remains a huge part of a beauty brand’s success story. CPNA brought back their successful Discover Pack Program, where innovative suppliers covering various facets of the supply chain were featured. These companies enjoyed a distinctive design and dedicated marketing along with guaranteed meetings from leading companies such as Estee Lauder Companies, L’Oréal, American Eagle and many more. To provide inspiration and recognize true creativity in packaging and contract manufacturing, Cosmoprof North America hosted Beauty Innovation and Design Awards – BIDA, with a total of 10 prizes given out to various companies including HCT Packaging and Express Tubes. Sold out educational sessions were dedicated to new packaging trends. Cosmopack North America will be launched at the 2019 CPNA show to expand the quality and scope of the packaging, contract manufacturers, private label companies, machinery and equipment providers and raw materials suppliers featured.
You can never go wrong with the original Ghost Bond Water Resistant Adhesive by Pro Hair Labs that stands the test of time. Our ﬁrst high-performance adhesive contains no harsh chemicals, no toxic ingredients, and no latex so you can feel conﬁdent that you will get a superior hold that is safe and gentle to your skin.
USA: 1.813.788.7468 | Ireland: +353.1.442.8808 UK: +44(0)20.3286.0094 | Germany: +49(0)30.2089.6831 USA OOce: 4775 Allen Road, Zephyrhills, Florida 33541 Europe OOce: Glenbeigh, Rathaspeck, Wexford, Ireland Y35 X4H1
TV Shopping Resources: With controversial professional acceptance to this competitive direct to consumer category; the TV shopping platform was of particular interest to indie companies. There were live auditions on the show floor in front of key merchants from domestic channels -- EVINE, HSN & QVC and international channels -- HSE24 Italy / Germany, QVC Global and TVSN Australia. Attendees and exhibitors alike also had a new opportunity to practice their live selling pitch with an actual on-air beauty host from QVC and HSN as part of ‘The Beauty of the Sell’ program. Another new aspect of CPNA 2018 was the trend directional areas that allowed buyers to quickly get a pulse on what is up-and-coming across different categories. Making up 15% of this year’s show, the special areas returned including the flagship Discover Beauty, Discover Beauty Spotlights and Discover Scent for specialty retail along with Tones of Beauty for multicultural beauty and Discover Green for organic beauty.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018 Unique to the show are the curated sections where key buyers participate in timed face to face meetings with selected companies; for Discover Beauty retailers included Bloomingdales, Nordstrom, Macy’s, Space NK, Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus; in Discover Green Leaf beauty brands met with key specialty retailers and chain spas focused on organic beauty such as Pharmaca, Follain, The Detox Market and Shangri-La Resorts, along with Discover Beauty Pro where Cosmoprof Relocating selected companies met with key national distributors like ULTA, JC Penney and The Sally Beauty Companies. Cosmoprof 2019: Cosmoprof North America / CPNA continues to exemplify the energy and creativity that drive the beauty industry. Mark your calendars for July 28 to 30, 2019, where Cosmoprof, Beacon and The City of Hope Awards will be celebrated again at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nevada. To continue and discover more products part of this year’s edition be sure to follow CPNA Reviews 2018 series on YouTube and view brief video presentations featuring select exhibitors who will demo their product; new videos will be published as of mid-August and will be updated on an ongoing basis. Social channels Instagram & Twitter (cosmprofna) and Facebook will also have ongoing updates with products that were featured at the past edition. The Professional Beauty Association is the largest beauty trade organization comprised of professional salons, spas, salon chains, cosmetology schools, manufacturers, distributors, associations, publications, marketing and PR agencies while being dedicated to improving their individual businesses and the industry as a whole. The PBA advances the professional beauty industry by providing our members with education, charitable outreach, government advocacy, events and more. Visit www.ProBeauty.org or call 800-468-2274 / 480-281-0424) IHA to learn more. Larry Oskin is a contributing editor to The International Hair Authority and president of Marketing Solutions, a boutique style full-service marketing, advertising, graphic design, media relations and consulting services agency specializing in the professional beauty business. Clients include manufacturers, salons, salon suites, day spas, medical clinics, manufacturers and associations from across North America. He is also president of Art Beautique. For more information contact Marketing Solutions in Clermont, VA 34711 at 703-508-6800 or via email at: LOskin@MktgSols.com. Visit: www.MktgSols. com, www.ArtBeautique.com. Larry Oskin
DISCOVER THE PLATINUM DIFFERENCE... If you demand the best for your clients and choose Ghost Bond Platinum for your studio, we guarantee....
• • • • • •
Safe Ingredients Bacteria Resistance Complete Water Resistance Powerful Hold Faster Curing High Temperature Resistance
Feel conﬁdent and secure with Pro Hair Labs new Ghost Bond Platinum hair replacement adhesive. This latest hair adhesive is specially formulated for high humidity, heavy perspiration, and oily scalps giving you the strongest hold possible for ultimate performance.
When Only The Best Will Do....
USA: 1.813.788.7468 | Ireland: +353.1.442.8808 UK: +44(0)20.3286.0094 | Germany: +49(0)30.2089.6831 USA OOce: 4775 Allen Road, Zephyrhills, Florida 33541 Europe OOce: Glenbeigh, Rathaspeck, Wexford, Ireland Y35 X4H1
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
An All-Natural Hair Loss Solution for Today’s Health-Conscious Lifestyle Zenagen Hair Care is a luxury hair care brand that pairs select nutraceutical ingredients with an advanced delivery system to provide an effective, natural and easy-to-use hair loss and repair solution.. Zenagen’s formulas are the result of years of nutraceutical research and product development. The brand is sold exclusively through hair care professionals and distributors around the world. In this interview, Zenagen founder and CEO, Jared Reynolds, tells how his early encounter with hair loss redirected his professional career and led to the creation of an award-winning professional hair care company. CEO, Jared Reynolds
Hair Authority - Before we started this interview, you told us that your Zenagen adventure really started when you were still in medical school. Jared Reynolds: That’s right. I’m a molecular biologist and when I was still studying in medical school, I became really concerned about my hair. So, given my field of study, I began to research the mechanisms of hair loss with the help of the dermatologist I was studying under. I followed all the normal recommendations at the time and was duly prescribed Propecia. I didn’t like the way finasteride made me feel so I moved on to Minoxidil and used that for a while. But this wasn’t a good fit either; the chemicals irritated my scalp and it didn’t make my hair feel good. Authority – The two FDA cleared pharmaceuticals were a logical place to start, but obviously they weren’t right for you. Where did you turn next? Jared - I started looking around but didn’t really find anything that I thought would be as strong as the first two products. That’s when I decided to switch my academic focus to hair loss research, specifically inflammation-derived hair loss. Over time, I really became an expert on the mechanism of hair loss and today our products try to target those underlying triggers and help the body return to normal function.
“We had discovered a formulation that was highly effective without chemicals or artificial ingredients - and that was just what the consumer wanted!” Authority - How did you begin to do your research? Did you go into the lab and pick up a test tube… did you hole up in the library for six months and never come out? Jared - I was originally doing cancer related research; stuff completely unrelated to hair loss. But all that changed when I began to lose my own hair. I was surrounded by doctors and researchers and I just felt there had to be a medical solution and I was determined to find it. As I began to explore the subject, I came across some interesting studies about the mechanisms of hair loss and did a deep dive into the research literature to see if there were any points in the hair loss process where I could intervene and try to develop a solution. I reviewed a lot of case studies and ex-
amined volumes of clinical research that led me to target inflammation-related hair loss. From that point forward, all my efforts focused on this inflammation cascade. I would start with really broad hypotheses and then narrow them down to find a point where I thought we could attack. As my research progressed and we began to do lab trials, I became increasingly confident that we had a good concept based on the data. Authority - When was your eureka moment when you knew you had something that was going to work? Jared - I thought the concept would work in my head before I actually created the product. This was around my second year in medical school and I knew what the formulation could do in theory, but I didn’t know exactly how effective it would be until I saw data from the trials. I’m a strict scientist so you can imagine how excited I became when I began seeing positive data with the complex. But I kept on testing different variants to see if we could create something even better. Finally, I reached the point where the formula was as strong as it could be, and it was time to conduct our final tests. They came back exactly like we thought they would and we knew we had a marketable product. Authority – It was an all-natural product, wasn’t it? Jared - Yes. Authority - Was it part of your goal to come up with all-natural compounds, or was that just how things worked out? Jared - It was just how the research worked out. I wasn’t thinking ‘natural’ at that time in terms of how I wanted the product line to develop. But, remember I‘d had a bad experience with Minoxidil, so that may have motivated me to try to find a safer or more nat-
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY TM ural way to hold the active ingredients together. I was fortunate that the technology led me down the ‘natural’ path and created a ‘perfect storm!’ We had discovered a formulation that was highly effective without chemicals or artificial ingredients - and that was just what the consumer wanted! We’ve been doing this for ten years and now the rest of the industry is playing catch up and searching for all-natural products like ours. Authority - Merck spent over $20 million to complete their clinical trials and bring Propecia to market. How could you afford to test Zenagen? Jared – Actually, I think Merck spent more than that. Either way, it’s a lot of money. Authority - As a medical student, you didn’t have $20 million in your back pocket. How were you able to finance your research? Jared – I was fortunate. I had access to all the facilities and specialist labs I needed. I designed the research studies myself and then outsourced the trials. We used small client samples. Our early studies examined the impact of our formulation on cosmetic benefits like the appearance of the hair and density. Measuring changes in hair quality and density is far less costly than a full Phase One clinical trial and other work needed to get FDA clearance for a pharmaceutical drug like Propecia. We paid for each study piece by piece. At each stage, we were looking to see what ingredients worked and what didn’t. It was time consuming, but this methodical approach allowed us to test different combinations and refine the formulation. It grew from there. I was fortunate to have so many resources available to me through the medical school, plus the use of their labs for the in-vitro stuff and later, in-vivo testing. Authority - Guide us through the regulations regarding cosmetic products. We understand that products that work subcutaneously or interfere with body biology are considered to be drugs. In fact, the FDA published a paper to outline their definition of a ‘cosmetic’ and a “drug.’ How do these regulations apply to your product? Jared - We are a cosmetic application. By targeting inflammation and using mechanisms the FDA has already approved, we can market our products as cosmetic products. But as with other non-medical brands, we cannot use language that implies a bio-
The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. The Authority was formerly known as The National Hair Journal, founded in 1977 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case email@example.com
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Larry Oskin firstname.lastname@example.org
The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.
The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.
THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 39252 Winchester Road #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Emal: email@example.com Tel: 626-709-6397
Cont’d Pg 24
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
logical function like, “grows hair” or “regrows hair.” But we can talk about how your hair “looks” and “feels” which is what consumers care about most. Authority – Is the improvement in the appearance of the hair really noticeable? Jared – Our research clearly shows that it is, and we think our technology is ahead of most other companies. I was at the Premiere Orlando show in May and gave a class lecture on the impact of inflammation on hair loss. Afterwards, one of the people in the class who was part of the FDA’s hair loss division came up to me and we learned that, just as you mentioned, the FDA is having a hard time in this category. We’ve always made doubly sure that we’re above-board on all of our claims. In fact, we’re looking at helping the FDA better understand hair loss and the different kind of mechanisms that contribute to it. I hope the industry sets better compliance standards in this category because right now, if you have Minoxidil, you can claim one thing and if you don’t, you have to use different language. But I think you’re about to see some changes shortly. Authority – What about traditional natural herbs and spices that are part of folklore and have been grandfathered in? Jared – There is a class of traditional medicines and therapies that have been used for years Most of these products have never been in clinical trials, but because they have been found to be effective, they have been grandfathered in. A lot of food supplements fall into this category. However, there’s a huge difference between taking supplements versus topicals like ours. There are a lot of different FDA classifications for hair loss products, so we make doubly sure we’re always above board. Authority - The laser companies went through a similar learning curve and worked hard to stay in compliance. Jared - Yes, it’s a major commitment. Authority - Looking at you today, your own hair is thick and pigmented. It’s everything you wanted it to be. Is that your product at work? Jared – Yes it is. All our early research and technology was based on male pattern hair loss and I was the I was the guinea pig. I didn’t even know women lost their hair back then, so I saw myself the logical test subject. After we completed all the tests and finalized the formulation, I kept using the products haven’t I used anything else since. Ten years later, I’m just one of hundreds of users who are benefitting from that research. As a side note, our number one product today just happens to be for women. The target group I never knew about has become my number one customer! Authority - That’s true right across the hair loss category. Female hair loss is the fastest growing segment of the market. In fact, Hair Club, the leading hair loss group, has just opened a studio just for women. Authority - You distribute Zenagen exclusively through professional salons. What is the logic behind this? Jared - The professional salon industry is best avenue to reach people in need. We are an education-focused brand and trained professionals are the most effective way to communicate with the public. Hair loss is more complex than most people realize. There are multiple procedures and products, whether it’s a pill, a
lotion or a cream. Some products work well on their own, some work well in combination. And some only work on specific types of hair loss. We feel the salon industry is the best channel to explain these choices and work in that arena. Authority - People who read the Hair Authority are all hair loss professionals. What would you like those professionals to know about Zenagen? Jared – Zenagen is all-natural. There are no chemicals or drug-related side effects. That’s important to a lot of people. For example, we can provide a hair loss option for people who may not be able to use Minoxidil because it thins the blood. Another key factor is our focus on Zenagen as an anti-inflammatory, which positions us differently from other brands on the market. We’re proud of putting a solution out there that is good. It’s not damaging. It’s naturally developed. Authority – How does a professional studio become a Zenagen distributor? Jared - We’re already distributed in hundreds of hair replacement centers as a supplement for people who may not be candidates for finasteride or want to create a stronger regimen. Many of them found us through our website, zenagen.com which has an application form.
“Most men are reluctant to commit to a complicated routine and our products are super simple.” Authority – The hair-management market, as we call it, is always looking for unique products because so many personal care brands are now being sold on the gray market. For example, more and more women are buying salon products at their local drugstore and coloring their hair at home. But hair loss is different, it is a zero-tolerance business. You cannot get it 95 percent right. It’s 100 percent or nothing. So, studios are looking increasingly for products that are safe; and they’re looking for products that are unique. To use your own phraseology, it would seem that this is a ‘perfect storm’ for Zenagen. Jared - It is. I’ve been doing this for 10 years and it’s nice to see consumer demand finally catching up with our all-natural approach. I was hitting my head over this for the first couple years, wondering why people didn’t get this, but now the healthy lifestyle has really caught on. My holding company is called Nutraceutical Research, which is what we’re all about, but nutraceuticals weren’t a thing ten years ago. Authority - You’re smart to flag the risk from chemicals. The Hair Authority ran an article on the dangers of chlorine in the water recently. People are really concerned about that. Jared - That’s a growing problem. Chlorine at the shampoo bowl or in tap water are not great in the long run. Authority – Tell us more about inflammation. What is it and what is its significance? Jared - Inflammation is a cascade event, which means there are multiple steps along the way. This cascade effect is something
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018 I find fascinating because all aging, all diseases, start from an inflammatory cascade that’s gone awry. I happen to focus on the cascade in the skin and the hair follicle regeneration center or the dermal papilla specifically. Our research found that it doesn’t matter whether it’s a molecule of a chemotherapy drug or the byproduct of DHT, the reason why hair follicles thin and atrophy is because an inflammatory response prevents it from generating a strong and thick hair shaft. Inflammation is a process that is always going to be there on a cellular level, but we’re looking at things that can reduce it and protect the follicle from degrading. Authority - Why do men and women in the United States only begin to deal with thinning hair when it has already become a problem? In other countries, we see a prophylactic environment. In Asia, for example, people start protecting their hair from the age of 19. It’s a routine, like brushing your teeth. Jared - That’s a great question, because it is so much easier to treat disease the earlier you attack it. A prophylactic approach is obviously the strongest approach. In America, men in particular, lag on their pursuit of information on hair loss until it’s pretty far advanced. Authority – Let’s take a couple of typical hair loss situations and see how Zenagen would fit into these scenarios. We’ll start with a young person, 25 years old, who is noticing their hair is beginning to thin. What do they do? Do they start taking supplements? Do they start using a laser? Do they start using Zenagen? Do they combine these therapies? Jared - If they’re experiencing early stage hair loss, I think Zenagen is a good solution. Most men are reluctant to commit to a complicated routine and our products are super simple. They only need to be used three times a week in the shower and it takes five minutes. There are no oils and no pills. There are no daily routines or steps. It’s something that a young person can easily fit into their daily routine. Authority – So compliance is not a problem. Zenagen is not going to end up with the exercise equipment in the garage? Jared - That’s the goal. Compliance is a big thing, and we specifically designed our products to fit into a normal routine without much adjustment. That helps that goal become a reality. Authority - Now let’s take someone in their late thirties. They’ve lost thirty percent of their hair and they’re deeply concerned. They’re looking for a radical solution. Jared – If the client is female, I’d want a lot more background information before making any kind of recommendation. For example, we could be talking about her anemia levels that could be addressed with over the counter type minerals. Iron plays a key role in the oxygenation and development of the hair. Or we could be talking about stress or hormonal changes and that requires a different approach. When I hear mid-thirties, I have a lot of questions. You’ve got to figure out what’s going on before taking action, and the best person to provide that information is a medical professional or a certified trichologist. If the that someone is a male, then Zenagen is exactly what they need. They will start to see an improvement in the density, look and feel of their hair.
Even though they have lost 30% or so of their hair, not all hope is lost. Starting a routine now will help to preserve the life of the hair that they haven’t lost and improve and encourage the growth cycles of the hair that is currently struggling. Authority - Let’s fast forward mid to late forties. This client has saved up my $10,000 for a hair transplant and he has been researching PRP. How does Zenagen now fit into this scenario? Jared - We love this scenario because PRP is a process that works, but there’s still going to be some inflammation. Zenagen is prescribed in a lot of clinics that offer PRP; it’s a patient takehome maintenance solution for them. Whether you’re looking at hair transplants, or you’re looking at PRP, these are some of the more aggressive hair loss procedure and they traumatize the scalp. Zenagen is great for transplants because after surgery the follicle has a hard time growing in its new location and you want to control inflammation as much as you can as soon as it is placed. You don’t want to apply topicals like Minoxidil. A lot of doctors will prescribe Propecia for their male patients, which is fine, but you’re still going to have structural inflammation. That’s where Zenagen comes in. Authority - So it helps the survival rate? Jared - Yes. We don’t market it as a psoriasis shampoo, but the anti-inflammatory factors do wonders on a tender or sensitive scalp. Authority – “Zenagen” - how did you come up with the name? Jared - Anagen, catagen, telogen, the three stages of hair. That’s the A-G-E-N part. Then ‘Zen’ as in a Zen, the moment of enlightenment. That was my thinking. Zenagen is like the fourth cycle where hair is now growing thicker and healthier. A lot of people didn’t think I should have chosen a name that began with a “Z”, but I did, and the name has stuck and become well recognized. Authority - Google and Yahoo are both made up name and it didn’t hurt them! Jared -That’s what I was thinking, too. Plus, there was no competition. Authority - Is there anything you would like to add? Jared – Not yet. I love your publication. I think it’s a great resource. I’ve got some exciting things in the pipeline, but I’m not ready to talk about them today. When I’m ready, Hair Authority readers will be the first to know about them. Jared Reynolds, founder and creator of Zenagen, the industry leader in hair restoration technology, knows about hair loss on a personal level. The Zenagen Story began when as a medical student, Reynolds noticed his hair thinning and shedding. Unhappy with the unnatural, often harmful hair loss products on the market, it inspired him to create a better alternative for men and women struggling with hair loss. Using his background as a medical researcher and chemical biologist, he created Zenagen, an award-winning professional hair care brand that pairs a patented, advanced delivery system with high-quality nutraceutical ingredients for a natural solution to hair IHA loss.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Jeff E. | Xtrands+ Client Results may vary.
Pioneers in Total Hair Solutions,
with a Focus on the Future Learn more about why youâ€™ll love todayâ€™s Hair Club
Isabelle O. | Xtrands+ Client and Hair Club Employee Results may vary.
All images are actual Xtrands+® clients.
INDUSTRY LEADERS The world’s top hair replacement provider for men and women. 40 years’ experience and still setting the pace.
hairclub.com | 800.594.7074
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Trichology Section As hair replacement and restoration moves beyond styling and artistry and new technologies become available , it is becoming increasingly important for professionals to understand the underlying medical, genetic and lifestyle reasons for hairloss. To provide information about the latest research and developments, The Hair Authority has invited David Kingsley, PhD, founder and president of the World Trichology Society to share the latest news and links to important reports and publications. Dr Kingsley first became involved in the world of trichology over 25yrs ago. The Authority/ Journal has been publishing for 21yrs, so together we bring half a century of experience to these pages.
David Kingsley, PhD. President World Trichology Society
One of the most important new treatments that many people in the trichological field are talking about are JAK inhibitors and that’s what I want to write about today. As Dr. Brett King, MD, PhD said at the summer 2018 American Academy of Dermatology meeting in Chicago, Illinois, “JAK inhibitors will be a very important — maybe the most important — drug class in dermatology because of their broad applicability across numerous conditions that patients commonly, and uncommonly, present within our clinics.” With this in mind, I thought it fitting to devote this article explaining what a JAK is and why inhibiting it may help many of our trichological clients.
DO YOU KNOW JAK? What does ‘JAK’ stand for and what is it? JAK is short for “Janus Kinase”. There are four types of Janus Kinases. Janus Kinases are involved in the process of signaling between cells (known as the JAK-STAT pathway). Cell signaling is important in how cells function and in coordinating important actions of cells.
Examples of the role of JAK-STAT pathways in cell functions are: the regulation of the immune system, responses to infection, immune responses, and inflammation. If the regulation of the JAK-STAT pathway is disturbed, immune disorders may result. For the trichologist, immune disorder conditions include alopecia areata, cicatricial alopecia, atopic dermatitis (a form of itchy eczema) and psoriasis.
What is a JAK inhibitor? A JAK inhibitor is a substance that inhibits the JAK-STAT pathway, thus potentially reducing the immune disease. JAK inhibitors target the processes that cause these diseases and, therefore, interrupt those processes to reverse the diseases or make them better. JAK inhibitors in the news recently are Ruxolitinib and Tofac-
itinib which were approved by the FDA to treat rheumatoid arthritis and bone marrow disease. Some studies have shown the potential of these medications to also help improve moderate to severe atopic dermatitis and alopecia areata.
1) A sixteen-patient study (all with Alopecia Universalis) used two topical JAK inhibitors, 2% tofacitinib and 1% ruxolitinib, for 28 weeks. Five patients (31%) demonstrated partial hair regrowth, two patients (12%) had significant regrowth over their entire scalp and eyebrows (see reference 1). 2) A 22-year-old man presented with a history of Alopecia Universalis (AU) that progressed over 5 years. He exhibited hair loss on the scalp, eyebrows, eyelashes, face, chest, and bilateral upper and lower extremities. Skin biopsy results of the scalp were consistent with those of AU, which was previously treated with intralesional steroids with minimal improvement. Because of the lack of response of the AU, the patient was started on off-label tofacitinib (JAK inhibitor) at a dose of 5 mg orally, twice daily. After 10 months of treatment, the patient experienced hair regrowth on all of the affected body parts. After treatment, the patient reported no adverse side-effects (see reference 5). 3) There have also been promising developments in other topical JAK inhibitors studies which have been shown to help patients with alopecia areata. These are currently in Phase II and Phase III trials that are assessing the JAK inhibitors’ efficacy
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
(see reference 3).
Trichological Analysis Before recommending a JAK inhibitor, I suggest a trichologist send their client/patient to a physician to check blood levels of vitamin D, vitamin B12, ferritin, and thyroid (TSH). It is also important to discuss your client’s lifestyle and medical history such as, stress, diet, medications, family and health history. For further details on reading your client’s blood test results as a trichologist, please consider taking the World Trichology Society’s Advance online course where I discuss these in great detail (For more infomation see)
Higher Associate Trichology Diploma What is Trichology? Trichology is the para-medical science of the hair, hair loss and associated scalp problems. It encompasses the study of the diseases of the human hair and scalp, as well as the assessment of the cause(s) and treatment of these disorders. The word “trichology” comes from the Greek word, ‘Trikhos’, meaning ‘hair’, and was first conceived as a specialty branch of study in Britain in the late 19th century. It then became a specific para-medical discipline in 1902. Today, trichology is perceived as the “bridge between cosmetology and dermatology.” What is a Certified Trichologist?
A certified trichologist is a hair and scalp specialist.
A WTS trichologist is trained in the life sciences to recognize different hair conditions and learn the potential cause(s) and treatments of these conditions.
Over the years, effective treatment(s) for alopecia areata, atopic dermatitis, etc. have been limited. It is hoped that over the next few years JAK inhibitors will provide a more reliable treatment option. By working with a dermatologist or immunologist, a trichologist would be giving their clients the best possible supervision to help improve their condition. Although JAK inhibitors have the potential to help improve certain trichological conditions, further studies are needed on long term safety, best dosages, vehicles used for topical formulations for skin penetration and reduced systemic absorption, and cost. I hope that by 2020 these questions will have been successfully answered.
A WTS trichologist looks at hair loss problems in a holistic way by evaluating clients on the basis of personal history, lifestyle, genetic factors and environmental conditions. Based on this information and working with a hair loss specialist, dermatologist or physician, a trichologist is able to suggest individualized hair replacement solutions, give nutritional advice and recommend lifestyle changes to improve the health and appearance of the hair and scalp. In addition, a trichologist should be able to genuinely empathize with a client/patient and will spend time advising the person on how to best cope with his/her condition as part of the treatment regimen.
©2018 World Trichology Society
The World Trichology Society (WTS) is an internation-
ally renowned organization dedicated to educating, supporting and promoting trichologists worldwide. WTS is the only official US-based trichological institute and the premier US education resource.
Coming Soon - Associate Trichology Diploma for Hair Replacement Professionals: WTS is finalising two web-based programs specifically for cosmetologists, consultants and other professionals offering hair replacement and hair addition services. These courses will apply credits for prior education achievements and provide a gateway to official Associate Trichologist certification: Associate Trichology Diploma for Hair Replacement Professionals
1. Bokari L, et al. Treatment of alopecia universalis with topical Janus kinase inhibitors – a double blind, placebo, and active controlled pilot study. International Journal of Dermatology, Aug 2018. 2. Gotthardt D, et al. STATs in nK-Cells: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. Frontiers in Immunology, 2017; 7: 694. 3. Hosking AE, et al. Topical Janus kinase inhibitors: A review of applications in dermatology. Journal of American Academy Dermatology, 2018; 9: 535-544. 4. Iorizzo M, et al. Emerging drugs for alopecia areata: JAK inhibitors. Expert Opinions on Emerging Drugs, Mar 2018; 23(1): 77-81. 5. Morris GM, et al. Simultaneous improvement of alopecia universalis and atopic dermatitis in a patient treated with a JAK inhibitor. JAAD Case Reports, 2018; 4: 515-517. 6. Rawling JS, et al. The JAK/STAT signaling pathway. Journal of Cell Science, 2004; 117(8): 1281-1283. 7. Seif F, et al. The role of JAK-STAT signaling pathway and its regulators in the fate of T helper cells. Cell Communication and Signaling, 2017; 15: 23. IHA
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Cutting and Bonding Techniques By Jimmy Toscano
This procedure manual has been devised and refined for the hair replacement industry by James Toscano, a leader in the industry. In this article, you will find concise, step-by-step procedures for customizing a pre-custom base, custom coloring of hair systems and bases, soft-bonding, and cutting the hair system. By becoming familiar and incorporating these procedures in your salon, you will be able to deliver the “perfect” hair system every time.
Important Notice When using any soft bond adhesives, make sure that you use a co-polymer and perform a patch test 24 hours before applying adhesive to the client. Also make sure you have a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for every adhesive you use in your salon. This sheet lists all the pertinent information about the adhesive. In the case of a client reaction to the adhesive, you will be able to advise medical personnel about the adhesive components to aid in treatment.
Materials You Will Need
• Material Safety Data Sheet • Cutting Shears • 1 Hair System • Scissors • 1 Eye-liner pencil • Soft-Steel Razor
• 1 Lint Remover Brush • Sanek Neck Strips • 1 Canvas Block/ Clamp • Towels • Personna Blades • Combs
CUSTOMIZING A PRE-CUSTOM HAIR SYSTEM CUTTING THE BASE • Prepare your client’s existing hair- shampoo and haircut. Trim existing hair past the weak areas of the hairline . • Now shampoo your client’s hair and scalp twice with an alkaline-based shampoo. • Condition the client’s hair.DO NOT condition the client’s scalp. • Add exfoliant to the client ‘s head. Gently massage into the scalp for 1 - 2 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. • Apply mud pack to the scalp for 1O minutes. Rinse thoroughly with warm water for 1 - 2 minutes. • With a lint remover brush, remove any loose debris or dead skin.
CUSTOMIZING THE PRE-CUSTOM HAIR SYSTEM • Start by creating a front hairline, keeping in mind that natural front hairlines are never symmetrical. • Using an eyeliner pencil: Start behind the frontalis muscle (top of brow), draw the desired front hairline, making sure to tie the front hairline into the side/temple area 1/4”to 1/2” back into the client’s natural hair. • Apply the plastic lens that comes with the hair system onto the client’s head to make a custom template. Trace the hairline at the very edge of the client’s existing hair. Cut out the template. • Place the template back on the client’s head to make sure the fit is exact, making any adjustments that are necessary. When the perfect fit is achieved, write the client’s name, the date, front and back, and DO NOT CUT on the top of the template e. Remove the template from the client’s head. • You can also remove the line that was drawn on the client’s forehead to create the front hairline. *See Pictures at the Top of the Next Page*
• Lace SupportTape • Soft-Bond Adhesives • 1 Small ArtistsBrush • Make-up Sponges
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
CUTTING THE BASE • Shampoo and condition the hair system once.
Do Not Cut Name & Date
• Using a canvas block, drag the hair system over the back of the block, Back making sure that all of the front hair is behind the front lace or skin. Put a T-pin in the front to hold the hair system on the block, if using a lace system. If using a skin system, you must have someone hold the system on the block. Any holes in the skin will allow the adhesive to come through into the hair. • INVERT the template. Place the template on the hair system , utilizing as much of the front hairline as possible. Secure the hair system to the canvas block with T-pins, if using a lace system. Again, if using a skin system, have someone assist you in holding the template and system in place. DO NOT use T-pins on skin system . • You will need a Persona Blade to cut the base. Using only the tip of the blade, cut the base, using the template as your guide, all the way around. Make sure to use the tip only, so that you don’t create short, stubby hairs.
ATTACHING THE HAIR SYSTEM WITH SOFT BOND • Apply two small pieces of lace support tape 1/4 of the way back on the base of the hair system. This will help with the placement of the hair on the client’s head. • Align the hair system properly to make sure the system aligns exactly with the natural hairline. The hair system should not overlap the natural hair. • Once you have the hair system perfectly aligned, lift the back of the hair system toward the front. Using a make-up sponge, spread one thin coat of adhesive on the client’s scalp. Once this coat has dried clear, apply 3 more thin coats, making sure that each coat dries clear before applying the next coat. • Using a small artist’s brush, apply 4 coats of adhesive (same as above) at the edge of the client’s hair, making sure not to get the adhesive into the client’s hair. • If you are using a lace system with polyurethane on the edge, you can apply 1 coat of adhesive to the polyurethane, but NOT directly to the lace. If you are using a “skin” system, you can apply 1 thin coat directly onto the base.
• Using a small artist’s brush, apply 4 coats of adhesive (same as above) at the edge of the client’s hair, making sure not to get the adhesive into the client’s hair. • If you are using a lace system with polyurethane on the edge, you can apply 1 coat of adhesive to the polyurethane, but NOT directly to the lace. If you are using a “skin” system, you can apply 1 thin coat directly onto the base. Cont’d Pg 32
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
• Once you are sure the adhesive has turned clear, place your hands under the hair system and “walk” it back into place, making sure to align the hair system as you go. Do not push down on the hair system at this time. • Separate the hair gently with a comb to check for wrinkles. If you find a wrinkle, gently pull on the base until the wrinkle is gone. • Now move to the front of the hair system. Using an eyebrow pencil, draw a dotted line at the front edge of the hair system. Pull the system toward the back, making sure to pull the hair system past the adhesive you have already applied. Remove the lace support tape you put on in the beginning. • Apply the adhesive to the front of the scalp in the same manner as the back. Use the small artist’s brush to apply adhesive along the front hairline, making sure not to put any adhesive over the eyebrow pencil marks. Apply 4 thin coats in the front area. • When the adhesive has dried, remove the eyebrow pencil line with a Sanek Neck Strip. • Again, place your hands under the hair system and”walk” the hair into place, making sure to align the hair exactly. Do Not push down at this time. With a comb, check for wrinkles. Make any corrections that are necessary. • At this time, you should determine the hair style your client will be wearing. Gently comb the hair in the direction of the style. Now take a dry towel and place on the client’s head. Have him / her grasp the towel on both sides and start to pull down evenly. As soon as you feel the towel become taut, tell the client to hold the towel in this manner for about 5 minutes. This will”set”the bond.
CUTTING A HAIR SYSTEM • Starting l”from the edge of the base, make a horseshoe-shaped parting from temple to temple. This is the outside perimeter of the horseshoe. Pull all the excess hair up on top of the head. This is the inside perimeter of the horseshoe. • Go back to the outside perimeter. This is the area where the “trails” will be cut. Make a 1/4” parting around the head. Using a soft-steel razor, “fillet “the hair with the razor. By using this type of razor, you will create the same density in the hair system and your client’s hair. Also, it will give uneven ends, not blunt ones. • Once you have cut the first 1/4’;go back and make another 1/4” parting. Continue in this manner until you have cut the whole inch. • Now we will be working within the inside perimeter of the horseshoe. If you determine that the thickness or density of the hair system is too heavy or thick, part the hair system down the center. Make 1/4” arrow partings, starting with the front hairline.
Inside Perimeter 1/4” Partings
Edge of Base
• On the first parting, just remove the length. On the second parting, take the razor, starting 1/2” off the scalp, and remove the bulk, without removing the length. Continue back in the same manner until you reach the outside part of the horseshoe, keeping in mind not to cut the outside perimeter. Make 1/4” arrow partings, starting with the front hairline.
Part the hair system down the center. Make 1/4”arrow partings, starting with the front hairline.
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018 • Now you are ready to create the style you desire by cutting the hair in the inside perimeter of the horseshoe. This can be done with a razor or with your shears. Once you have done this step, pull the hair in the outer perimeter up to meet what you have cut on top. Cut off the long ends. • Now you can apply styling products and style your client’s hair.
CUSTOM COLORING A BASE THAT DOESN’T MATCH THE SCALP
CUSTOM COLORING HAIR SYSTEMS (colors 1-4) FOR MAXIMUM UNDETECTABILITY
• Using a hair system that is blonde, color the hair system back to match the base hair color. • Using a fan-shaped brush, color the hair system, leaving the roots blonde. Get as close to the root as possible without touching the base. Continue Process normally. Rinse color.
CUSTOM COLORING A BASE THAT DOESN’T MATCH THE SCALP • Mix 80 with 20 volume peroxide. Lightly apply to lace base, being careful not to push the color down through the base. Leave on for 2 - 5 minutes. Rinse and blot system dry. Check the match of the base with the scalp. If necessary, repeat the above process.
EXAMPLES OF INVISIBLE HAIRLINES
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
Celebrating “The General” There is a void in the hair replacement industry today that may never be filled. Jimmy Toscano was a one off a kind. A fifth-generation barber and hairstylist, “The General” as he was affectionately known, represented a unique combination of expertise, generosity and exuberance. He lived for his clients and his greatest satisfaction was seeing a customer leave his studio radiant and confident. Quite simply, there was no one like him and it will be a long time before the ache left by his passing begins to fade. Everybody has their own special memories and anecdotes. The writer of this eulogy has two to share that reveal the man behind the legend. As Jimmy fought a debilitating illness he was constantly in and out of hospital. One day when he was allowed out for a short time, he called to say, “Bet you can’t guess where I am.” He was, of course, in his studio with his clients. The following day he was back in hospital. My wife suffers from a progressive and debilitating disease. The last words I ever heard from Jimmy in the midst of his suffering were, “How’s your wife?” Says it all! If Jimmy was watching readers of this eulogy (and I’m sure he is) he would doubtless tell us to put the melancholy aside and get back behind the chair where we belong! There will never be another Jimmy!
James Toscano could teach you a lot about hair. He could teach you a lot about business. But if you really listened he could teach you a lot about life. Thank you Jimmy. I will never forget you. -
New Image Labs will always be grateful to Jimmy Toscano, as will our entire industry. We are proud that Jimmy got the nickname “The General” while working with us. Thank you for giving us the opportunity to join you in paying tribute to Jimmy. -
Michael Suba, Owner Continental Hair, Toronto.
Oscar R. Urzola, President New Image Labs.,
My friend Jimmy was a one-of-a-kind. He has left a lasting mark in the lives of so many in our industry. There are really no words to convey the height of his talents and the beauty of his heart. Professional Hair labs would not be the company it is today without Jimmy’s skills and dedication to education. -
It is with great surprise and regret to hear of Mr Jimmy Toscano’s passing. I knew Jimmy for many years and personally I always knew him as a man of principal and goals. He respected the rights of all and helped many achieve their goals in this very challenging industry. I extend my sincere sympathies to all the family. -
Howard Margolin, CEO, Professional Hair Labs
Andy Wright, Founder, On Rite
First of all, it is an honor to even be in the same conversation as Jimmy, he truly was a Master at his Craft, and always a Gentleman, he would be there in a heartbeat, to give you a helping hand! “Jimmy the General “best known for his Generalship behind the chair, and his “Magical Hands with a Scissor, Comb and a Razor. “He will be missed, but never forgotten, a True Icon in the Industry! May you Rest in Peace, my friend! Dennis H Howell, “DINO”
We will miss his smile and his talented and kind-hearted Friends !!! Definitely an icon in the hair replacement industry. Sending love and prayers to his family -
Okyo Sthair, President, New Concepts
Hair Authority Summer/Fall 2018
James Toscano 1949 - 2018 In memory of a special colleague, mentor, and friend, Jimmy the General Toscano. Last week I woke to terrible news of the passing of my friend Jimmy Toscano. It is during times of great loss that we realize how limiting our words can be and how special our friends really are. In life there are reasons why some journeys turn into legends. Jimmy made a choice in his life to stand out by sprinkling stardust on other people’s lives. As a professional Jimmy was a star, the pied piper of education. To his family and friends, he was a light bringer, a magic maker, a world shifter, who always challenged you, and uplifted you. His life’s journey was a reminder that the only real success in life is the success you share. Good friends are everything good about life and Jimmy Toscano was everything good about a friend. Jimmy will be greatly missed but never forgotten. My thoughts and prayers to Linda and the Toscano family. - Lance Centofanti, Marketing Dir., Hair Visions I met Jimmy first on 14th Feb. 2006 at a New Image hair replacement seminar in Florida. There was an immediate synergy between us and we established a strong friendship which I have valued ever since. I personally learnt a lot from Jimmy while my wife and I were staying as his guest. He taught me every skill he had on hair replacement. In life, you meet people who forget you. You forget people you meet. But sometimes you meet people you can’t forget. Those are your real friends. Jimmy was one of those rare people who are hard to find, hard to lose, and hard to forget. Amin Sheybani, Founder, Vivandi International, Partner, The International Hair Authority All of us at Hair Visions International were shocked and saddened to hear of the passing of Jimmy Toscano. Affectionately known as the General Jimmy was not just defined by his extraordinary business resume. He was defined by the quality of his character and his total devotion to the success of his family, his business associates and his students. His example of sharing and caring lives on as an inspiration for all of us. We send our thoughts and prayers to all The Toscano family David Schwartz, President, Hair Visions Jimmy Toscano was an icon in the hair replacement industry. I worked with him on a Russian hair project four years ago and it was a tremendous learning opportunity and I feel fortunate to have had that experience with him. He was an excellent educator, a true master in hair replacement. But more importantly, he was a generous person with a big heart. With his passing, we have lost a true leader and a true friend. Jackie and Doris Yu, Founders, Owners, Hair Art, CA
Our thoughts and prayers go out to Linda and to all the Toscano family
A STUNNING ALTERNATIVE FOR YOUR MOST DISCERNING MALE AND FEMALE CLIENTS VIRGIN‑SOURCED 100% HAND‑SELECTED REMY HAIR
HAIR VISIONS INTERNATIONAL • 800-327-5555