2014 Spring

1 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

People A company called “Dimples” Bijan Todd explains…

International

Who’s Watching Whom?

Heather Simon reports from Europe.

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Technology Return of The Energizer And he’s on a mission

Insight

Giving Back John Rutter makes us all proud.

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Volume 18 No 68

Beauty on the Move Los Angeles, 04/14 - California is becoming the new health and beauty hub. x Aderans, the world’s largest hair goods company has chosen Beverly Hills as its US headquarters, coordinating Rene of Paris, International Hair Goods, Hair Club and Bosley from one central location. Then there’s Jon Renau, Hair Art, Leading Hair/Dimples to mention just a few independent hair replacement companies. In the laser market, iGrow from Apira Science calls Irvine home and the new Theradome laser was developed and manufactured in Silicon Valley. When it comes to medical research, California leads the pack. The state of California is home to two of the three largest life sciences clusters in the United States – San Diego and San Francisco. It’s no surprise that BioRegenerative Sciences developed its new Hair Serum in the shadow of UCSD. Here’s how one Biotech organization described the influence of California: An economic powerhouse – California’s biomedical industry employs 267,000 people with average annual salaries exceeding $95,000, while its industry footprint extends to 764,000 jobs in the Golden State (including 497,000 indirect and induced employment).

Investing in the future – Projections for 2013 indicate that California will receive around 45 percent of the total biopharmaceutical and medical device venture capital invested in the United States.

Academic excellence – California boasts the highest concentration of world-class research institutions in the world; it is home to 10 of the top 100 universities on the Shanghai Index.

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

New Hair Growth Drug for Pfizer?

First Minoxidil, now Xeljanz New Haven, CT. 06/14 - Researchers at Yale University have discovered that arthritis-drug, tofacitinib, made by Pfizer under the brand name Xeljanz, can stimulate hair growth.

A paper in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology reports that after two month of treatment, a 25-year-old man who suffers from alopecia universalis and plaque psoriasis grew new hair for the first time in his life.

After eight months of treatment, he had a full head of hair.

My Way or the Highway The Kim Jong-un Extreme Makeover Several years ago the North Korean government launched a patriotic campaign against the evils of long hair entitled “Let us trim our hair in accordance with the socialist lifestyle”. However, according to Radio Free Asia, it now appears the regime in Pyongyang is upping the ante. Until recently, everyone in North Korea had to choose their haircuts from a list of state-approved styles, but now, the BBC reports, all men in the ‘hermit kingdom’ will be required to sport the same hairstyle as supreme leader Kim Jong Un.

Baldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before!

Number one in federal funding – $3.33 billion in funding from the National Institutes of Health (NIH) went to California institutions, more than any other state.

In fact, even personal care giant, Procter and Gamble, historically anchored in the Mid-West, set up their P&G Salon Professional division in Woodland Hills just north of Los Angeles.

P&G Salon Professional is a service organization supporting stylists, and is home to global brands like Wella Professionals, Sebastian, Sassoon Professional, Clairol and Nioxin. When you factor California’s celebrity population, media and entertainment infrastructure you have a unique and intoxicating mix. Expect to see the Golden State’s influence continue to grow in the years ahead.

Like minoxidil before it, Xeljanz was developed to treat a different medical condition, in this case, rheumatoid arthritis. Minoxidil was originally prescribed as an oral drug (trade name ‘Loniten’) to treat high blood pressure and was only later found to increase hair growth and pigmentation. Today, minoxidil is marketed under the brand name Rogaine in the United States and Canada, and Regaine in Europe and Asia. However, the patent on minoxidil expired February 11, 1996, it is not illogical to assume that Pfizer would welcome a new hair growth medication that could replace lost minoxidil revenue.

Tokyo, 05/14 - A Tokyo pub is offering special discounts and privileges to men who are bald or losing their hair. The owner of “Otasuke,” which means “Helping Hands,” believes it is time to face up to, and even celebrate baldness. Hair loss is a particularly sensitive issue in Japan, a country which is home to Aderans, the worlds largest distributor of hair replacement products and parent company of Bosley and Hair Club, among other well known brands.

Wigging Out Patent Application Publication US20130311132 Hi-tech clothing and wearable electronics are all the rage and Sony doesn’t want to be left out. TV sales may be down, but two entrepreneurs, Hiroaki Tobita and Takuya Kuzi, think the Sony SmartWig might make up for lost income. According to their patent application, the SmartWig could incorporate a sensor, a CPU and a communications interface to a second computer. How might this technology help the wiggee? Well just like Google Glass, it could deliver shopping tips based on your location, provide navigation assistance or allow biofeedback. If you had a hard time with color correction and hair-adds, just think how you would feel about updating your SmartWig app!

Source: USPTO Patent Application Publication US20130311132

Spring 2014

Miss America Finalist at Lucinda’s Hair Loss Seminar Cheshire, CT. 05/14 – Miss America 2011 finalist, Kayla Martell, joined Lucinda Beaty and hair loss professionals, Rhonda McCarthy and Flora Fuentes on May 14th for a special educational seminar on women’s hair loss hosted by Lucinda’s Hair & Boutique in Connecticut. The event was preceded by several local TV appearances and drew so many inquiries that the organizers had to schedule two consecutive sessions. Kayla may be one of the most beautiful women in America, but she knows the devastating effects of hair loss. Kayla lost her hair at age 11 due to alopecia, but her mother supported her through the difficult teenage years and taught her how to retain her poise and selfesteem, Kayla went on to fulfill her dream of

becoming Miss Delaware and then a finalist in the Miss America Pageant. Now Kayla is touring the US to share her experience and to help women find support, share their feelings and become better educated about hair loss solutions. Kayla wants every woman to “feel feminine and look beautiful.” Lucinda Beaty is a pioneer in the hair replacement industry.

She is on the board of The National Hair Society, has been a member of the National Cosmetology Association for 30 years and participates in the Alopecia Areata Foundation Support groups. Lucinda is the recipient of a Master’s Certification from the American Hair Loss Council and was awarded the Torch Award for the highest standards in ethics and conduct by the CT Better Business Bureau.

Frivolous Lawsuit or Toxic Stew?

New York. 05/14 - Robert Prignoli, of Staten Island has filed a lawsuit claiming that chemicals in the pool at his local gym created a “toxic stew” causing him to lose hair on his head and and all over his body. Prignoli told the New York Post, “They call me Chlorine Man.” He is sueing LA Fitness for $5 million.

2  The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

3 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

From

the

Leadership – I hear a lot about the need for leadership in the hair-management market, but what exactly is this elusive quality?

Bringing the best technology to the market, you might think, or having the best brains and marketing skills. But, paradoxically, the more people I talk to, the less it has to do with products and marketing and the more it has to do with human qualities. I have been watching the PBS series “Mr. Selfridge” recently and he personifies the qualities I’m told our market needs; energy, optimism, vision, as well as some vulnerabilities that only make him more human. Randy Martin, the legendary president of New Image in its heyday, wasn’t the most sophisticated executive, his hair wasn’t the best, but he lived and played like a leader. People wanted to share his space, they wanted to be part of his success. Success breeds success. Too many companies today run their business “by the numbers.” I’m not saying that it’s wrong to analyze performance, but numbers without people don’t cut it in the hair industry. It’s time to bring back old fashioned leadership. Who will be the next General Patton, Winston Churchill, or Ronald Reagan of hair replacement?

Laser Therapy in the Spotlight – The FDA agrees that light therapy works. Industry pioneers have invested tens of thousands of dollars in clinical trials to pave the way for this important therapy. But the FDA clearance of these pioneer devices is not a ticket to a laser free for all. Each clearance is device-specific. The first priority of the FDA is safety - to ensure that the public is not at risk from new technologies. Even if a manufacturer of a previously cleared device decides to “enhance” it, the company still needs to submit the “relaunched” product for clearance. Unfortunately, there are salespeople and distributors who don’t play by the FDA’s rules and they put the entire field of light therapy at risk. It will only take one customer to initiate a lawsuit for malpractice or deceptive advertising to contaminate the entire industry. By the same token, disputes between manufacturers will only confuse the consumer. We’ve seen the results of the bad press Propecia received. Customers became insecure, class action sharks smelt blood in the water and sales stalled. It did not matter that there was little merit to the purported side effects, it was a good story and the media seized it. In today’s online world, all it takes is one

Editor

rumor for something to go viral. That’s why several organizations are discussing alternate laser education and certification programs to give serious business owners the information and guidelines to create responsible, education-based programs. At this time, I cannot reveal more since there are legal, technical and even personality issues involved, but look for updates in my next editorial or the Hair Society newsletter – meantime, please exercise due diligence in the devices you select, the promises you make and the language you use in your marketing and promotional materials.

An Event Whose Time Has Come – The American Hair Loss Council (AHLC) has just completed a successful trade show. There was good representation from manufacturers and strong attendance from retailers. They came because this was an opportunity to explore and compare products from different companies and meet the people behind them. In today’s budget-conscious economy, it makes sense to pool resources and bring everyone together under one roof.

So, is this the trend of the future? Four years ago, we collaborated with Renee Meier of European Hair, Jimmy (“The General”) Toscano, Bobbi Russell, the queen of women’s hair additions, Erwin Kupitz of Hollywood fame, and the flamboyant and very talented Gilberto Febles to host a special “Cruising with the Stars” educational event. Afterwards, we were politely reminded by some of the major manufacturers that they had invested in expensive educational facilities of their own and we were encroaching on their turf. So as a professional courtesy we backed off. But now the game has changed and we think it is to everyone’s benefit. Every other industry has a central trade show to showcase its products and services and we congratulate AHLC on reopening the door to this logical and mutually beneficial way of promoting hair replacement.

In Our Next Issue – An update on best business practices in the laser market; technical advice from market leaders in hair protection and bonding for those hot summer months… and the launch of The National Hair Journal’s new Digital Edition!

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4 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

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5 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Style and Flair from

Across the Pond

Say Hello to ‘Dimples’

HSJ: How was your first day in the hair business?

BT: I opened the shop in Manchester, England and called it “Dimples”. We opened at 9:00am and by 10:00 am nobody had come in. 11:00am, 12:00pm, same story! I was kicking myself. Everybody had told me, “Stick to the textile business,” but I didn’t listen and went into something I knew nothing about. Finally, instead of sitting in an empty shop getting depressed, I decided to go for a walk. There was a secluded spot not far away and I sat down and began to think about life and watch the trees grow and stuff like that. I was feeling sorry for myself, but I wasn’t ready to give up. When I returned at around 2:30 pm, I saw two customers trying on wigs. That was the best day of my life! My first day in business and I sold two wigs!

T

he hair industry is undergoing one of the most profound changes that we have seen in a very long time. Chinese When I returned at around 2:30 pm, investors now own the two of biggest US hair replacement I saw two customers trying on wigs. distributors and are becoming increasingly active in local marketing and sales. Meanwhile, salon owners report that uneven hair quality continues to be a problem even as prices keep rising. Managers HSJ: So there was no marketing, you simply got lucky. and owners are looking for answers. That is why The Journal interviews new and existing hair companies to bring readers BT: Nothing. I was so green in the business! I just had a huge “Dimples” sign out front on news about new products, new technologies and new business my shop. opportunities. In April 2014, we met with Dimples, a company that began in the United Kingdom and recently extended operations to North America. Dimples, formerly “Leading Hair” was founded

by Bijan Todd, and is now managed by his two sons, Michael and James. Michael oversees the company’s creative work while James focuses on marketing and production. Bijan continues to play a key role in strategic planning and coordinates his hair business with other production and distribution companies he owns overseas.

Hair & Skin Journal: Bijan, this is a family run business, but before you introduce Michael and James, we’d like to go back to the beginning and follow you down the track that will lead to the personal care group you run today.

Bijan Todd: As a young man, I was never an academic student; but I was practical. I was

always trying to make money for myself rather than asking my father for an allowance. I used to buy and sell pens and things like that to other students. I had a commercial instinct from an early age.

HSJ: This is characteristic of many entrepreneurs. Richard Branson used to have a newspaper route.

BT: Before I was ten, I was already making money selling caterpillars. We had mulberry trees

near our house and I noticed these caterpillars on them. So I pulled off some of the leaves, stuffed them in a jar and put the caterpillars in there. Then I started selling them to my friends at school. I learned to keep the larvae, so the following year I increased my inventory. Soon I was making good money because I didn’t have any expenses.

HSJ: You had a strong commercial instinct at an early age, but it’s a big step from silk worms to hair replacement. How did that come about?

BT: I started my career in the textile business, but I really wanted to go into business for myself. It didn’t take me long to learn that you needed deep pockets to compete in the textile market. They had a lot of money and I didn’t. So I began looking for something else. Well, about that time I used to go to lunch in a local café… and one day I met this girl. Do you want to hear the story…?

HSJ: … A quick word of reassurance – nothing you tell us will be printed without you seeing it first. So with that safety net, please carry on…

BT: Well, I was going out for lunch every day and I would see this girl with beautiful dimples.

Her name was Denise. She would always smile at me. One day I got the courage to ask her out.

Eventually, she told me she worked in a wig boutique. She explained how much she paid for the wigs and how much she sold them for and it didn’t take me long to realize that there was a good profit to be had. It was a great fashion business. Every woman had four or five wigs in her wardrobe and was prepared to spend a lot of money to acquire them. The more I learned, the more it appeared that this was a perfect business for me. So I asked Denise, “If I open a shop, will you come and work for me?” That was the beginning of an exciting relationship… and a not so exciting introduction to retailing.

HSJ: So a chance encounter brought you into the world of wigs and changed your life.

BT: Exactly. I went and rented a shop, painted everything and put down a carpet. I am a bit of

a handyman, so I made a nice area for trying on the wigs and Denise promised she’d join me next month. One month passed, then another and no Denise. So I decided to go to her house to see what was going on. Her mother answered the door and I explained, “I’ve invested a lot of money in the shop. Everything is ready but your daughter keeps making excuses.” That’s when I learned that Denise had started dating her boss and they were deliberately stalling so my money would run out and I would not be able to compete with them!

HSJ: But you pressed ahead anyway...

Bijan and Chris

HSJ: What happened to Denise, the dimples lady?

BT: I didn’t hear from her for many years, then one day I was sitting in my office and my receptionist told me a lady was outside and wanted to see me. So I asked her to come in and it was the lady with the dimples. She said she was sorry about what she’d done and told me she was now divorced and she needed a job. What’s past is past and I have no hard feelings, so I gave her the name of some friends in the industry and wished her well. Since then I’ve moved to Los Angeles and started a new life, but the name ‘Dimples’ lives on as a reminder of my introduction to the hair business.

HSJ: How did your wig shop fare after those first two sales?

BT: The store was in a small village. Not an ideal location, but I couldn’t afford a better area.

This was 1968. But little by little my business began to grow and six months later I opened a second shop in Altrincham. This was an exciting time. I was courting my wife and a year later she came to England and we got married. I worked hard, followed my instincts, and within one and a half years I had three shops. I opened a fourth shop in Bolton shortly after - then suddenly the market changed! It was now 1971 and people started selling wigs at deeply discounted prices. A price war erupted! I guess it was inevitable. You had a high profit item that could be mass-produced at very low cost. When wigs were expensive, they were a novelty item and women were prepared to pay a premium for the glamour and convenience. But as production ramped up, the novelty disappeared. Soon it was a free for all.

HSJ: You were now the owner of four wigs shops. How did you adapt?

BT: The first thing was to recognize that this was not going away. It was time to move on.

I closed my shops and decided to move upstream into the wholesale business. Rather than sell one customer at a time, I would supply the beauty professional. Hairdressers had a broad business base because they had service income and revenue from beauty supply products in addition to ladies wigs. This, I decided, would become my more secure clientele. To diversify further, I began focusing on people who really needed help with their hair; hospitals and studios working with cancer patients.

To diversify further, I began focusing on people who really needed help with their hair; hospitals and studios working with cancer patients.

BT: I had no choice. I was already committed. I had a lot of learning to do. I started reading HSJ: About this time, you took another big step, this time into production and distribution. all the trade papers, looking at the ads and learning about wigs and hairpieces. Then I went to London and I bought a few new wigs. I wanted some top pieces too, but I couldn’t find any.

Then I looked in the Yellow Pages and I found a guy who was working from his home and I went and knocked on his door. I said I was opening a shop but didn’t have a lot of capital. I told him if he would supply me with a few top pieces each week, I would pay for everything on Sunday. I was looking for one week’s credit to get started. He looked at me and said, “You’re a young man. You want to start a business and I trust you.” So he gave me a box of top pieces.

I took them home, interviewed a hairdresser, and on Saturday I opened the shop.

BT: That’s right. My main supplier was located in Japan and one day, they decided to close

the business and offered to sell me their inventory and customer list. I said I would buy their stock at the same price I was currently paying, but I would need time to pay. I didn’t try to discount the price because they’d been so good with me. I paid for all their stock within two years. That’s how I became a wholesaler.

Continued on Page 7 ›

6 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Remy Hair • European Hair Virgin European Hair • Eyebrows M edical Wigs • Top Pieces French Tops • Custom Made

DIMPLES USA

DIMPLES UK

info@dimplesusa.com

dimples@lincocare.com

tel • 323 651 1900 fax • 323 651 1550 www.dimpleusa.com

tel • 0161 777 9610 fax • 0161 777 9112 www.lincocare.com

7 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

‹ Style and Flair continued from Page 5

HSJ: You also manufacture skin lotions and beauty products. Were they part of the deal?

trade shows in Korea and Hong Kong and learned that he was ready to sell the hair system division. I bought it right away.

BT: No, that was a separate venture. Business was going well, but I saw an opportunity to James: We started as “Leading Man and Woman,” then we simplified the name to “Leading expand into personal care for women. It was a good decision. We now have over 100 people working in our Manchester, England factory supplying beauty products to 52 countries.

HSJ: Many hair loss professional today would like to diversify, but don’t know how to start.

What has experience taught you?

BT: Opportunity will find you if you are open minded. But you have to be ready to seize it

when it presents itself. It happened to us at a time when we knew we had to take control of our own destiny and were ready to invest to make it happen. A company approached us about the suntan market and offered to sell us their business, but we learned they’d been distorting their figures. So instead of buying their company and we started our own manufacturing business.

HSJ: Do the personal care products help support your hair business?

BT: Yes, in many ways. Production most of all. We manufacture beauty products, body

lotions and hair products like shampoo, conditioner, and fiber oil spray all at the same factory in England.

Hair.” Now we’re going back to our UK roots and using the brand name, “Dimples.”

HSJ: What sets Dimples apart?

BT: We try to be more specialized. We are not in the fashion business. We work with customers who have a real need.

We are not in the fashion business. We work with customers who have a real need.

James: The products we market here are sold to medium to high-end hair restoration and

wig boutiques. We offer three categories of human hair: ‘Bronze,’ which is remy, ‘Silver,’ which is European hair that’s colored, and ‘Gold,’ which is virgin European hair. Our focus is high quality, well-colored or virgin hair. 90% of our wigs are hand tied.

HSJ: You mentioned earlier that you had developed special products for men and women HSJ: James, when did you join the management team? suffering from medical hair loss. Are you still doing this?

JT: I’ve always been involved in the family businesses, but it wasn’t until the last couple of BT: Yes. We now supply the National Health Service in England with a contract awarded years that I have been able to commit one hundred percent to hair. I enjoy the customer side by the British Government. The National Health Service is the social program that provides medical services and prosthetics to men and women. We have developed special wigs for people who have cancer. This has become a big business and we now have agents in England, France, Germany, Italy, Holland, and other countries. We also make wigs for children suffering from alopecia or cancer. In the past, they would put women’s wigs on kids’ and they didn’t look natural. So we developed special designs just for those little patients.

HSJ: Are you considering expanding your

medical support program into North American?

most. I love talking to customers and hearing what works for them.

HSJ: Does Dimples have a distinctive culture?

JT: We are a British company. We come from a country with a proud monarchy and we try

to maintain those traditions and standards of quality and service in everything we do. We’ve been in business and growing since 1968, so we must be doing something right.

James: Absolutely.

HSJ: Looking forward, what can Journal readers expect from Dimples in the months ahead?

HSJ: There is a campaign underway to try to

JT: We’re going to focus on the ladies’ Bronze,

get insurance companies to reimburse the cost of a wig. Is this something you would support?

Silver and Gold collections, with top pieces, French tops, mono tops, and wigs with French tops. It’s all about quality.

BT: Definitely. In England and most European

countries, the government will pay if a patient cannot afford a wig.

HSJ: Could you describe the characteristics of

James: There are charities in the UK that

JT: Under the ‘Dimples’ label, we have the ladies

each collection?

provide additional support. A portion of our sales goes to support the “Marie Curie Cancer Foundation” and “Little Princesses.”

range - and this is our focus right now. We have the Dimples Bronze remy collection offering remy hair in full wigs, medical wigs and top pieces in various hair lengths and base sizes. The Remy Collection is ready to wear, out of the box, with beautiful rooted colors, highlights, and blended colors. Then there’s the Dimples Silver collection. This collection of wigs and top pieces is for those who want to custom color, root and cut. All pieces come with French tops. And for the even more discriminating, we have the Dimples European Gold collection. The pinnacle in touch, feel, and quality, for an even greater custom experience with virgin European hair. It’s never been colored or processed. It’s the best there is.

A portion of our sales goes to support the “Marie Curie Cancer Foundation” and “Little Princesses.”

HSJ: After building your business in Europe, you made the decision to relocate to the US. How did that come about?

HSJ: What about hair systems for men?

L to R; Bijan Todd and son Michael

BT: We used to come to L.A. when my children

were small. England is a nice country, but the weather isn’t the best. Because it rains a lot, people go home, watch TV and go to bed. But here, in the US, when we come home from work it’s just the beginning of the day. We go out or we invite friends over. It wasn’t a difficult choice. I decided to keep my businesses in England and to start over in the United States.

My wife wasn’t so sure however, because we had a nice home and lots of friends. So I asked her to give me one year and promised her if she didn’t like it we’d go back with everything.

That was in 1993. We’ve been here ever since.

HSJ: What about the new US business?

BT: I commented earlier that when you are ready, opportunity will find you, and that’s

exactly what happened in LA. One of my professional contacts ran Conair, a manufacturer of hair dryers and a small wig business called “Leading Man and Woman.” I had met him at

JT: ‘Leading Man,’ is our men’s line, and it comprises stock and custom hair systems. For our products to receive European certification, something we’re very proud of, we’re held to very high standards. We practice the same quality control for all our North American clients.

HSJ: Finally, as outside observers, what do you see as the biggest opportunity in North America today?

JT: Consistency and quality. Quality is going down; good hair is becoming scarce. There’s always an opportunity for the right company to offer a superior and consistent product. And don’t forget service - really being there to care for each and every customer. These are the most important attributes that Dimples brings to the U.S.A.

Death of the Comb-Over London, UK. O6/14 - Popular UK newspaper, The Daily Express, reports that the comb-over is no more. New research they published claims that modern men are shaving their heads, covering up with hats and opting for hair transplants. Here are the top ten techniques UK men use to disguise baldness:

1.

2.

3.

4.

Shaved head — 24% Wear a hat or cap — 21% Hair transplant — 20% Grow a beard — 8%

5.

6.

7.

Clinically proven hair treatment 8. Hair dye — 4% drugs Propecia or Minoxidil — 7% 9. ‘Strand by strand’ treatment — 3% 10. Hair fibers — 2% Hair weave — 6% Hairpiece — 5%

8 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

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• Hypoallergenic and antibacterial; thus healthy for the hair and scalp • Breathable and traction resistant eveto in weather extremes, allowing the client to engage in water and high impact sports activities • Allows total freedom in styling and coloring including highlights • Suitable for men and women who are not ideal candidates for hair transplants due to lack of sufficient donor hair requirements • Dermatologically tested & FDA approved (FDA 513G) • In the process for becoming the first Italian Government approved Class 1 medical device for hair loss • Dermatologically tested & FDA approved (FDA 513G) • In the process for becoming the first Italian Government approved Class 1 medical device for hair loss

PARTNERSHIP OPPORTUNITY Cesare Ragazzi Labortories plans to enter the USA market through longterm strategic partnerships with hair care and hair replacement companies. To learn more about Cesare Ragazzi Labortories opportunities call JOHN VINCENT +1 407 257 4776 (Pacific Time) or write to: johnvincent@cesareragazzi.com

Now accpeting reservations for training at the company headquarters in Bologna for owners and staff members.

Contact John Vincent for reservations or more information on our training and products.

9 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Check Your Vision!

By Marty Greenblatt Marty Greenblatt, owner of Eldorado Hair in Baltimore, believes in looking ahead. While other companies hunkered down during the ‘great recession’ Marty saw this as an opportunity to prepare and optimize his studio for the inevitable recovery. When business bounced back, Marty reasoned there would not be much time for redecorating or overhauling office procedures and information systems, so like the optimist and visionary he is, he launched into the salon update he shares in this article.

Reception - before

D

O

Coffee bar - before

Coffee bar - after

ur location is at the junction of two major highways. Our building was recently sold to another large REIT. There were some vacant office suites and the availability of small commercial buildings for sale was minimal. The new lease terms were favorable. It made sense to stay put and redesign our space to better scale. If I didn’t need a large desk, I could have two, not one visitor chairs in my office. I could improve staff efficiency by centralizing molds and files. Disposing of shelving housing unused equipment would open floor space.

Increasing the office manager’s space with better shelving would make for a more ergo-dynamic workspace. Trashing old hair, unused styling equipment, old styling books, and old templates and miscellaneous obsolete items would give more space for current inventory, cutting edge supplies, and be more visually pleasing to client, stylist and owner.

Reception - after

ecember 2013. Recession. Client attrition. Impending price increases. Obamacare.

What to do?

Renovate the Studio!

W

e have been in business since 1968 and every three years we paint and recarpet. But the studio looked old to me. It was clean, well organized and dated. EVERYTHING needed to go. It has been a great ride for the last 20 years in this location. We have many clients that have been with us for over 40 years and we needed to “give back” to all of them.

A complete renovation would rejuvenate the staff, excite the clientele and give me a project to do in the winter. It was an opportunity to reinvest in the business and position ourselves for future growth. With prospects coming in from our competitors and fresh leads coming in off advertising, our visual presentation is as important as what we talk about in the consultation room. You only get one opportunity to make a good first impression.

Retail display - before

Retaill display - after

W

e have seen an uptick in business. The staff takes more pride in cleaning their workspace.

Clients compliment us on our metamorphosis every day. Workflow seems more efficient. The entire studio feels cleaner. All of the detail work makes the place appear well organized and projects a more professional appearance to a first time visitor. We have increased advertising and our closing rate has also increased. What better way to make an investment in yourself, your business and your staff. This also lets your customers know you care about them and that you plan on being in business for years to come. It also makes your business more saleable if you decide to go that route. Besides, who wants to go into a dated doctor’s office, lawyer’s office or hospital for that matter? The hair replacement market is no different.

I

could have subcontracted my plumbing, electric, painting, carpentry and drywall work.

Or I could work with one contractor I knew who could do it all. This was also a test of what skills I still had and what my stamina was. It made sense to work with one contractor, rather than four, so that’s what I did. I did much of the “destruction” myself and then did flooring, painting, finishing work and much of the furniture staging. Short days were 12 hours, long days were 18 hours and we worked for 27 days straight. My landlord was decent enough (new lease year) to give us use of a vacant adjacent suite so we had a staging area for the new furniture as well as storage for the old equipment. We worked through multiple snowstorms and late into the night. On February 26th we were done - with the exception of the back workroom. As of this writing, that is underway!

O

ur challenges lay in overly optimistic delivery dates of furniture, insufficient flooring supplies, an unpredictable electrical panel and plumbing from hell! Manufacturing delays, inclement weather, incorrect equipment billing, and undersized elevator access only compounded the difficulty of completing this renovation. I also made the decision to stay open for business during the whole process. We staged the new furniture in the other office suite and exchanged the new equipment for the old equipment, completing one styling room at a time. Each night, we would tear the place apart only to put it back together for the next day’s business. By getting rid of all the old furniture, moving walls, and changing the entire theme of the business, we wanted to reinvent ourselves and go after a broader based clientele.

Besides no one asked me about the certificates or awards on the wall. Most clients weren’t interested in before and after shots of other people. They wanted to see what we would do for them. It was clear to me what they wanted, not what I thought they should see.

Styling room - before

Styling room - after

10 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

BRICKS TO CLICKS

By Richard Srery

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Before

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• Why is this? There are several reasons, but one remains a consistent theme. Many of the most successful businesses in this vertical are family owned and operated and most of them achieved success through referrals and word of mouth. While this may very well continue to be a revenue stream, the fact remains that more and more consumers are taking to the web when making buying decisions. In fact, according to the International Telecommunications Union, roughly 81% of the U.S. population was online in 2013; a number that is only forecast to climb. These Internet users take to the web for everything from banking to shopping. If you aim to maintain your competitive edge, today and for years to come, now is the time to make the switch from “bricks to clicks.”

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Competitor

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• Though entering the online marketing arena may sound like a daunting task, it’s actually quite manageable. There are several components to a comprehensive digital marketing strategy, each of which complements the other. If implemented properly, you can take advantage of a virtually untapped area of opportunity.

Before you’re ready to dive in however, it’s important to first understand the major components of an online marketing strategy: • Web Design - Just as you go to painstaking efforts to maintain a facility that makes your clients feel at home, it’s important to maintain a website that sets you apart.

Your site should be both visually appealing and educational. It’s important to provide detailed information on all the products and services you offer, enabling prospective customers to complete research on their own and contact you for more details.

• SEO - SEO is an acronym for search engine optimization, which is the practice of making improvements to a website in order to increase visibility within the leading search engines. With a properly implemented SEO strategy, you will begin to attract visitors to your site as they actively pursue information on hair restoration services.

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• When leveraged simultaneously, each of these digital marketing strategies can effectively: increase brand awareness, establish customer loyalty and launch your business into the 21st century.

• Having been in the digital marketing space since its infancy, I have seen the online landscape grow and evolve over the years.

Today, more than ever, the online space is teeming with engaged consumers who are actively seeking information with intent to buy; a marketer’s dream. Unlike traditional advertising media that share information in hopes of capturing the attention of a select few, digital advertising targets consumers who are “leaning in” and actively perusing information.

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If you’re apprehensively considering a move into the digital marketing space you’re not alone. I speak to professionals in the hair restoration space each and every day that are reluctantly exploring their online marketing options. While some industries entered the online space years ago, the hair restoration industry is a bit different.

also gives you the opportunity to establish yourself as an authority.

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• SEM - SEM stands for search engine marketing. This is the practice of running ad campaigns in the leading search engines and can also effectively drive highly targeted traffic to your website.

• Social Media - Maintaining a social media presence is not only important for connecting with your target audience, it plays a crucial role in SEO. The leading search engines are now taking social signals into account, making social media an integral piece of your larger marketing strategy.

• Content Marketing - Publishing fresh, quality content is an extremely important element of SEO. Not only does it provide more content for search engines to share, it

Richard Srery

Digital Marketing & Your Business • If you’re looking for a marketing opportunity that will give you an advantage in the hair restoration space, digital is the answer. With the help of an experienced professional, you can launch a program that will produce a steady stream of qualified leads each and every month. The sheer nature of digital marketing means that tactics and strategies are ever changing.

There is however, one consistent rule of thumb: get in the game and stay in. Google, and other leading search engines, have been rewarding sites with history for years; a trend which I assure you will continue. In addition, having access to historical analytics can help you to make strategic decisions for both your on and offline marketing strategies. Don’t delay the inevitable any longer. Rather than sitting idly by while your competitors embrace digital, why not show them how it’s done?

• Richard Srery is CEO of Thatsmine Media Group; a multi-media consultancy serving the digital and traditional marketing needs of hair restoration professionals. Thatsmine is a Google Platinum Partner and is certified with Google, Bing and Yahoo for SEO and SEM. Richard has received countless industry awards for strategic planning, and interactive designs.

With 25 years experience, he has worked on such prestigious accounts as General Motors, Coca Cola, Nike and Symantec Corporation (Norton Anti-Virus) and worked alongside industry leaders in marketing from iCrossing to Agency.com as well as MRM and Sapient Nitr. Richard’s thought leadership helped clients improve brand awareness and revenues exceeding $200 million during his tenure.

In the hair-management market he provides support to industry leaders including several members of the Transitions International Group. Thatsmine Media Group is offering Hair Journal readers a free evaluation when they call: 1-480-748-8887.

11 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

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12 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Yes,The Energizer is Back! … and he has a vision After sitting impatiently on the sidelines for 18 months while his non-compete counted down,The Energizer is back with passion! Lance Centofanti needs no introduction to anyone in the hair replacement business. He has owned his own studio, worked as National Sales Manager for On Rite, and most recently managed American Hairlines, where he pioneered the Virtual Reality program that continues to this day. Lance is now back in the ring and anxious to help people understand where the opportunities lie as the hair market evolves. As for the famous energizer drive, nothing has changed. We know that because we had a hard time persuading him to go to bed at 1:30am after we completed this interview!

National Hair Journal: Lance, bring us up to date.

moment?

What are you up to at the

Lance Centofanti:

For the last 18 months, I’ve been sitting on the sidelines, but this has given me time to do some research and to try to decipher the new challenges. I’m hearing that the market is experiencing a leadership gap. And people tell me that products are not working as well as they used to even as costs continue to escalate. In short, there’s a need for some new direction. I still believe the marketplace is begging to be remarkable and has wonderful potential, but only if we all pull together. Success is not an entitlement. To excel, we must constantly fine-tune our approaches. Despite the quality of our ideas, the impact we make depends on our ability to constantly optimize, build on our success and grow into something greater. The future is not something we walk into… it’s something we create!

your staff, your leadership overtures, your website and marketing differentiation – all these are part of your brand narrative. Great brands offer their customers a name to trust, always deliver on their promises, offer unique value-added products and services and create consistency at every customer touch point. Today people don’t just by coffee, they buy coffee at Starbucks.

People don’t buy iPhones or iPads, they buy them at Apple. People don’t buy hairpieces, they are looking for total hair solutions from a trichology-backed hair management clinic.

I have always been a believer in the power of branding. That is the reason I am consulting with Sam Donofrio and Leigh Gardner to help them to bring the Capilia brand to the US.

NHJ:

“Centofanti” is an Italian name and you’ve been back to Italy recently. We know it wasn’t all family business; what’s going on?

LC:

Your instincts are right; it wasn’t tourism. I got an invitation to visit Cesare Ragazzi, a company I knew nothing about, that was telling people they had a different kind of hair product. I also learned they owned and managed thirty or so retail stores, but what really spiked my interest was their claim to have this incredible hair. Naturally I was curious, so I contacted John Vincent since he’d described some of their proprietary techniques in the Hair Journal.

NHJ:

Did you get the answers you were looking for?

LC:

Better than that. John invited me to Bologna to see for myself. So several weeks later I found myself at 35,000 feet and on my way to Italy. I was impressed immediately with the company’s science and expertise. It was something I haven’t seen before in my fifty years in this industry. The quality of the hair, the way the bases are constructed, the built-in antibacterial properties, even the way the hair is implanted are very special.

They call it the “CNC” system.

NHJ:

What do you mean by the marketplace is “begging to be remarkable”?

NHJ: How does CNC work?

LC:

The Hair Management market is estimated to be worth over three billion dollars. Over 130 million men and women will need a solution for their scalp and hair issues. If we convince just 5% more people to take action, we make an additional 600 million dollars as an industry.

LC:

NHJ:

Cast production – Create cast using specialized computer imaging, cloning the contours of the head.

It is a series of tightly controlled phases. Let me take you through it step by step.

Scalp mapping – Computer mapping of the scalp and alopecic area.

Where do see the most potential?

LC:

The market for a standout product is better than ever. Because of the new economy and the hyper competitive environment, baby boomers are spending more than ever to stop the aging process.

In a society increasingly driven by communication and image hair is more important than ever.

NHJ:

You are providing consulting services to the “Headfirst Trichology” program” from Capilia. How does this work?

Lance “The Energizer” Centofanti

LC:

I refer to trichology as, “The power of proof.” More money than ever is being spent on hair and scalp fitness. Healthy hair and a healthy scalp are hot! I believe it’s imperative that hair management clinics bring together cosmetology and dermatology concepts to identify scalp disorders and offer comprehensive solutions. That’s called trichology. The Headfirst Trichology program offered by Capilia will certify your studio as an expert in scalp health and the prevention and correction of hair loss. This qualification will help you differentiate your studio from the competition and add authority to your website and marketing messages whether you are discussing laser therapy, hair transplants or hair systems. Not only do I recommend this program, I am taking the training myself for the second time. What marketing message sounds better? “We offer a free hair and scalp analysis” or “We offer a personal and complete scalp and hair fitness assessment by a certified Trichology specialist and verified by a unique scientific software program.”

NHJ:

You mentioned laser therapy; how does this fit into your marketing thinking?

LC:

As the Hair Journal rightly pointed out, laser therapy is gaining traction and acceptance as a credible device both by the FDA and the general public. Simply stated, the evidence continues to mount that LLT is a very effective hair maintenance therapy. After years of skepticism on the part of the medical community and a lot of confused marketing, LLT has finally reached maturity and great new lasers for clinic or home use are reaching the market.

The FDA this year has offered more clearances than ever and each month brings new trials. If you are not, or have stopped offering laser therapy in your studio, now is the time to rethink that strategy. Remember consumers are reading the same positive research reports that you are, and they expect you to offer all hair loss solutions.

NHJ:

As the innovator of the successful “VR/Virtuesse” brand, how do you feel about the importance of branding in our marketplace.

LC: Today, branding is key to success and you need to be one! Here are some simple facts:

store and generic brands own only 25% of the market, name brands own 75%. Name brands are able to charge up to 40% more on average for their products. Familiar brands are viewed by consumers as a warranty. Everything your company does is part of your brand. From your logo, to the products and services you choose to offer, your pricing strategy, the performance of

Cloning and Pantone matching – Clone membrane created by robotic technology, replicating exact shape, lines and Pantones of client’s scalp.

Selection of highest – grade human hair - to replicate color and texture.

Implanting – Hairs implanted individually into membrane, mirroring original direction of growth.

Non-surgical ‘grafting” – Membrane applied with special bonding product that requires no hair to be removed.

NHJ: Lance, you obviously received many job offers during the time you were riding out your non compete, but after your trip to Italy you decided to consult with Cesare Ragazzi in addition to Capilia. Was this the breakthrough product you’ve been looking for?

LC:

Seeing a product perform at this level excites me. I think it can be offered as a highend option for demanding clients.

NHJ: You were well known for your VR Live programs where you would travel to individual salons and do demonstrations not just to business owners, but also to the client himself. How do you plan to introduce the Cesare Ragazzi hair to the industry?

LC:

Cesare Ragazzi is new in the US so our first need is to build product awareness and explain the added value it can bring to studios. They have begun to advertise in the National Hair Journal and the company has already organized a few studio visits, but our next step must be to bring people together and let them explore the product for themselves. The way we have chosen to do this is through regional presentations and workshops. The first one is scheduled on the third weekend in July at the Aria Hotel in Las Vegas. VR Live worked well because we personalized the experience and had the studio closed for a few days while we demonstrated the products. That’s how we were able to get the complete attention and participation from the studio staff. So we are going to learn from that experience and introduce CRL products in the same way. The seminar will be a launchpad for the studio’s success. We will bring in company staff from Italy as well as US trainers to introduce the product and demonstrate each step in the creative process, from design, to production to cutting and styling. As with “VR Live,” we will set up dates to have our team come in to help upgrade clients and conduct a complete training protocol.

13 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

NHJ: How long will a premium CNC hair system last?

LC:

you pay a high price. Does CNC hair come at a premium price?

I’ve done a lot of reflecting over the last eighteen months and I’m very happy where I am right now. First of all, I haven’t lost one drop of enthusiasm for this great industry or I wouldn’t have come back. I’ve been lucky over the years to work with wonderful companies and creative people to develop ideas that added value to people’s lives. I still love the challenge.

I like searching for the next best thing and then providing an intelligent way to bring it into their business. It takes trust, it takes time and it takes a phenomenal amount of energy.

That’s why I’m excited about working with the new “Insight Group” at the Hair Society to do just that.

LC:

NHJ: What is this consulting group looking to accomplish?

LC:

While I was in Italy I was able to ask some clients that question and I found that a typical woman owns and rotates three hair additions, extending their active life to two or even three years.

NHJ: We talked earlier about the engineering that goes into a Ferrari, but for that performance It does. But after watching what goes into the production process, it would be impossible not to charge for that technology. It’s on the expensive end of the market, but as we will demonstrate at the conference, it is actually a remarkably cost effective solution. For one thing, you don’t need multitudes of products all ordered at different times. So it takes a lot of risk away for the studio and the customer. As we all know, when you make things at different times, something usually goes wrong and needs to be remade at someone’s expense.

Then there’s the customers’ fear, “Will my next system be like the last one?” With the CNC program, every order is completed at the factory at the same time, in the same system, by the same people. For the client, that means peace of mind.

NHJ:

How will service-plan clients react when they are told they no longer have to switch their hair every couple of months?

LC:

It will be a tough transition because we’ve done such a great job enforcing the concept of renewable hair. Many clients now believe that they need frequent switches to look good.

By the way, that was not a bad premise. It worked for a long time and served a huge market need. But it’s time to look for a more economical and, yes, ecological solution. It’s going to take some time and specialized training for the owner and stylists to come aboard and be able to communicate the benefits of this approach.

NHJ: Who will this product appeal to most?

LC:

Anyone who wants to bring added-value to their customer relationships. As an image consultant, you are really the purchasing agent for your customers, so it’s your job to always find the next best option. You must help your clients by challenging them to move forward.

Holding patterns are for air traffic, not hair loss professionals.

NHJ: Are there any downsides or risks?

LC:

I don’t think there is any big risk except the challenge of change. The downside, if there is one, is that you have to learn how to work with a more expensive and sophisticated product. You will also need to decide what to charge so it makes economic sense for both you and your customer. You may need to offer creative financing options since clients will be purchasing two or three hair systems at one time as opposed to over a period of years.

LC:

The specialized segments of the hair industry now recognize that they are complementary parts of a broader market and are beginning to work together. But this won’t happen without strategic planning and coordination. Similarly, independent studios recognize that their traditional market is changing fast, but if you are spending most of the day behind the chair, there is much time for strategic planning. That’s where the Insight Group comes in. The Insight Group brings together the industry’s top minds to pool their skills and experience to provide marketing assistance and, as the name says, “insights.” I see the Insight Group as a powerful think-tank that can facilitate the following.

- Provide objective, accurate and up to date information.

- Consult with professionals to provide strategic insights and marketing support.

- Identify and help bring innovative ideas to market.

- Direct professionals to breakthrough products, services and marketing.

- Develop prestigious events, and attractive role models to drive public relations interest and create a positive environment for hair loss solutions.

- Help establish respectability and consumer trust.

Unlike the last twenty years, I’m not going align myself with just one manufacturer. I am part of a consulting group that supports and serves the entire industry. I’m going to find the best hair and the best way to introduce new products and services into the industry. I want to be able to call my friends on the phone and say, “Hey, guys, you need to take a look at this!”

NHJ: We’ve been talking about new products, but what about Lance himself? Where do you go from here?

FREE Cosmeceutical Product Test APPLICANTS INVITED

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The Treatment is formulated using BRS’s core S2RM Technology™. For the millions of women who struggle with hair loss, consumer trials indicate the potential for a highly effective treatment.

BioRegenerative Sciences is seeking feedback from hair-loss professionals and their clients in order to refine its marketing program and build a testimonial database.

• Reward your top clients with cutting edge science.

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BioRegenerative Sciences is a company that believes in social value: Do no harm; Improve the quality of life of those who use our products and services and, apply our skill and knowledge to make our company different from and better than other companies offering stem cell therapeutics.

14 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Hair Replacement in Hamburg The a-Haargenau, KG Story

the Ultimate

Bonding Agent

for clients who demand, and can afford

By Heather Simon – In April 2014, I had the privilege of representing The National Hair Society at BVZ” Die Zweithaar” in Fulda, Germany, the premier hair loss conference in Europe. I was anxious to meet business leaders and compare their products and strategies with the way we do business back home in the US.

Ute Geers, a specialist who provides personal support to cancer clients. a-Haargenau’s clientele includes both men and women. Female clients like the Dening Company’s wigs and hairpieces and products from Ellen Wille line, and the GFH collection is for the men. Westermann does carry some of On Rite’s products, but he mostly works with German suppliers. He reports that young German men are increasingly attracted to bonding as their preferred attachment method.

His new clients are frequently referred to the salon by word of mouth, something facilitated by his time in the theatre, but he also has a strong Internet presence and good search engine optimization.

The Best !

Herr Westerman & Staff

After the show, I had the opportunity to spend some time with Herr Westermann who owns a.Haargenau KG, a successful hair replacement salon in the center of Hamburg, the second largest city in Germany. It is a beautiful town and has more bridges inside its city limits than any other city in the world. a.Haargenau itself is situated in a quaint part of town with nice cafes, organic grocery stores and boutique shops. It is conveniently located a short walk from the Hauptbahnhof Nord station. The salon is tucked back away from the main street and you pass under a small awning festooned with flowers before entering reception.

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I met with Herr Westermann and Kerstin Friedrich, an administrative assistant, and together they explained how Herr Westermann came to open up his hair replacement studio.

For the first 15 years of his career, Westermann worked in the theatre as a makeup artist and special effects person. During that period, he contributed to many musicals, including “Phantom of the Opera.” Herr Westermann proudly showed me photos of his work and I could see he is a true artist.

As his reputation grew, people outside the theatre began to ask Herr Westermann for help with their hair, particularly men and women concerned about hair loss. In fact, even doctors inquired whether he could help their patients. So Herr Westermann did the logical thing: he opened his own salon.

Once opened however, he continued with his theatrical work, making wigs, etc. But as the hair replacement continued to grow, Herr Westermann realized he was going to have to make some difficult choices.

Today, Westermann’s studio only offers hair replacement services. It continues to expand and now has private rooms for consultations, a training room, a repair room, three styling rooms, an office upstairs and a reception area.

As you would expect in Germany, the salon has a modern décor with architecture that has been refined for efficiency and functionality. There are six staff members who help run the business and I was introduced to Katja Haas, one of several hair replacement specialists, Kerstin Friedrich, the administrative assistant, and

a-Haargenau offers a wide range of services.

The most popular are bonding and weaving.

The studio also supports women who suffer from cancer and offers a wide selection of human and synthetic wigs. Employees like

Front lobby

Consultation & styling room

Ute help clients understand and manage their hair loss as they undergo chemotherapy. In special cases, the company refers clients to a local plastic surgeon.

Herr Westermann no longer works in the theatre and he readily admits that he misses the excitement and the glamour of the stage.

However, he still makes a beard or hairpiece for an actor when time permits.

I want to thank Herr Westermann and his staff for inviting me up to his salon and giving me the opportunity to find out how a hair replacement studio in Germany operates. Feel free to check out their website at www.ahaargenau.de. It is in German, but you can view their videos.

Robert Benishek Remembers Whatever Happened to ‘New Man?

Robert Benishek, owner of Wisconsin Hair Goods, a full service hair replacement studio for men and women, has been actively involved in hair replacement since 1963, in Antigo, Wisconsin.

In 1968 Benishek was nominated Barber of the Year. In 1969, he became a distributor/educator for the Allen Arthur Company, and in 1987 became a distributor/educator for International Hair Goods Inc., covering Wisconsin and upper Michigan, providing education for over 1700 stylists in hair replacement. At present Benishek is associated with Aderans International Hair Goods with a worldwide group of retailers with exclusive hair-related products and hair management systems. Robert Benishek, a noted speaker and platform artist, is recognized for his extensive experience in hair loss management; his technical and design expertise and his experience in hair replacement marketing. In this article, Bob remembers the early days of hair replacement, how Kanekelon was the fiber of choice and how it could scrub sinks and still look good. Or what passed for good in the 60’s.

It was probably about 1968-69, the year I was nominated barber of the year. I went to a barber show in Marimette, Wisconsin and I come across this booth selling synthetic hairpieces. I think they were the first ones that ever came out. They were made from Kanekalon.

The man running the booth was Art Lazeer and I told him I was interested in his product because the person that I worked for did some hair replacement. I said, “I don’t know anything about synthetics” and he replied, “Why don’t you come over to Minneapolis and I’ll tell you all about them.”

So I did. I went over there and I sat in his office and he says, “You know, you can’t just be a barber anymore.” He says, “You’re going to have to learn how to sell.” And I cannot believe it. He takes a used book off of his desk and proceeds to sell it to me for $6.00! [laughter] Then he tells me, “Here read this book. It’s going to teach you how to sell.”

Before I left Minneapolis, I’d bought a book… and I’d bought a program. It was called “New Man” and it cost me $1,300.00. Art set me up as a distributor. I didn’t know it at the time, but I was one of the first ones.

The New Man program was interesting. We had this synthetic hairpiece and we’d go around talking to barbers. To show them how good it was, we’d scrub their sinks out with it! This was in the late 60’s. Our selling technique was simple; just demonstrate how tough the hair was.

Well, the New Man program started to grow and we added new dealers and started having dealer meetings. But an interesting thing happened. Art Lazeer and Al Schwab, the owners of the company, found they were actually learning from us. We were the ones talking with customers and getting client feedback. So they refined their sales techniques and began doing roundtables. We’d sit at these roundtables and exchange tips and discuss how we were all doing.

Kanekelon was made in Japan and that’s where most of the research was done. Aderans was another major player in the Japanese market and they wanted to expand into North America, so they decided to acquire New Man. Aderans sent over a senior executive from Tokyo to supervise the transition of New Man into the new company, International Hair Goods (IHI). But the hair replacement industry is not an easy market to understand,

15 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

even for an American, so this was a difficult time for Aderans. But when Koichi Hirama was appointed president of IHI, he jumped right into that scene and through his personality and imagination, the company took off. He was a catalyst. We all liked Ko, that’s what we called him. His predecessor was a hard man to get close to, but Ko; he understood American ways.

So we passed on everything we’d learned at New Man. We pioneered almost everything that they’re still doing today, all the order forms, color rings. If it didn’t exist, we invented it.

They weren’t selling franchises or memberships in those days, we were simple distributors. We went out and worked with the barbers. We probably trained 1,700 people in Wisconsin alone. I would drive around two or three times a week doing education programs and we built up one of the larger distributorships.

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Because our hair was indestructible, there was no program selling or anything like that. One of our hair systems could last over a year. Some guys made them last longer. The question of course is how long did they look good, not how long they would last…

The original fiber, Kanekalon is still around.

When we first started, we used the razor to cut them down. Then we went to the 4420s and thinning shears and those kinds of techniques.

It was challenging. We used a lot of steam, curling irons. We’d curl and re-curl them and they wouldn’t last.

Bob Benishek

When Aderans took over New Man, they got rid of all of us distributors. So we went out on our own. Then about four or five years later I got a phone call from a New Man guy and he says, “I’m over in Minneapolis here and they’ve got something new, you need to see it” So I call up and ask for a sample and they send me a box. When I open it up and I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. It was the first time I’d seen the new nylon based synthetic called, “CyberHair.”

I was impressed, so I signed up for a class to learn all about it. I was in the second wave of New Man dealers. Ko was bringing us all back together, most of us anyway. From that point on, the group kept growing and growing and the program got more detailed and more sophisticated.

Today, the CyberHair group is the oldest marketing group in the US. We have a different approach to the market. We market the opposite to what everybody else is doing in our selling and in our product. And then of course there are new twists coming all the time. So that’s how we got here today.

I sometimes wonder about the New Man name. It’s a good name. I talked to Peter Gensler (current President of IHI) about this.

I said, “Peter you have a great brand name out there; there are things you can do with it.” But he told me the company philosophy is that this is old technology, it’s time to move on.

He added, “You don’t keep looking over your shoulder in a fast moving market.”

It’s been a good ride!

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16 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

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GIVING BACK Raelynn’s Story

Over the last few years, our industry has responded to the devastating effects of hair loss by creating a number of charitable organizations and programs to help children who have lost their hair, women suffering from hair loss during chemotherapy and even men who cannot maintain their hair as a result economic misfortune. And as more and more people recognize that hair is not simply a cosmetic embellishment but a critical part of who they are, so the vocabulary of hair loss has changed to reflect this perception. Increasingly, hair loss professionals will be heard talking about “hair restoration” not “hair additions”.

The Journal recently had the privilege of attending a presentation given by John Rutter who described how he had helped a lovely five-year-old girl dealing with cancer and chemotherapy. The passion with which he described how he and his team turned her young life around left everyone in the room with tears in their eyes. We wanted to share this special story with you as a way of recognizing John’s contribution and thanking everyone like him who gives back to people with special needs.

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John Rutter: It’s sad that there are lots of options for adults with hair loss, but when a child has issues, especially during chemotherapy or as a result of alopecia, the parents spend most of their time and money taking care of the illness and don’t have the emotional insights or financial resources to take care of the wigs and hairpieces that are so important to help that vulnerable child maintain his or her confidence and dignity.

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Raelynn before makeover

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Hair Journal: Kids often tease anyone who looks or behaves differently from them. They don’t realize the psychological harm they may be doing. Losing your hair is a tragedy for a kid isn’t it?

John: You are absolutely right. Giving a child her dignity back is a wonderful thing to do. If they can simply walk a little taller and be more positive because they still have a nice head of hair like everyone else around them, that can mean so much. They don’t look sick anymore, even when they are.

Journal: In your presentation, you showed some photographs that captured how one girl was transformed by getting her hair back again.

John: That was a very special experience.

But the way it all came about was really serendipitous. I had been talking to Jen Brooks at IHI about creating a program to help kids with hair loss and right after I hung up and went back to the salon, one of my clients happened to mention, “I have a niece who is losing her hair because she is going through chemotherapy.” And as she talked, her face lit up as she described the courage of this little girls and why she was so special. It turned out she was a beauty pageant girl and her aunt added, “even her name sparkles!” Her name, by the way, is Raelynn.

Giving a child her dignity back is a wonderful thing to do.

Journal: So just as you were exploring ways to help kids, out of the blue here comes someone who really needs you. Maybe this was more than a coincidence.

John: That’s exactly how I felt. When I heard about Raelynn, I knew “This is it!” There was no question. I literally picked up the phone while I was still working on Raelynn’s aunt and put things in motion. I arranged to meet Raelynn as soon as possible and when she and her mom came in we talked about her different options and together we chose a nice style and color. Raelynn was pumped! Everyone was so excited. It was just unbelievable.

Raelynn being transformed

17 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Journal: If she got that excited planning her new hair, she must’ve been over the moon the day it arrived!

When she looked in the mirror with her new hair, she didn’t see herself as a sick

little girl anymore; she saw herself they way she wanted to look!

John: We scheduled Raelynn’s appointment to come back and get her cut-in as quickly as possible… but she didn’t show up! We were devastated! It really deflated my staff and me.

We called her home the next day to check up on her and her mom told us that she had been held back at the hospital for more medical procedures. So we quickly rescheduled her and got excited all over again. I told my wife about Raelynn that evening. She’s a photographer, and she arranged a sitter take care of our kids so she could get some shots of the whole experience.

Journal: Obviously, this time everything went well because we have seen the photos!

John: We blocked out a couple of hours in the I want to be appointment book and Raelynn came in and my wife able to help took pictures the whole time. None of the photos were staged or posed. She just took lots of pictures people from the and captured all the excitement and emotion. We took inside out. the mirrors down while I was doing the cut-in because we wanted Raelynn to have a “reveal” moment. Raelynn was excited and nervous both at the same time. There was laughter and tears. When we applied tape, she got scared, so we took it off. She didn’t want any tape. After that, when we put her wig back on and did the reveal, we were blown away by her reaction! When she looked in the mirror with her new hair, she didn’t see herself as a sick little girl anymore; she saw herself they way she wanted to look!

Journal: We often talk about how we can change lives, but I don’t think we’ve ever seen someone as proud as you. That’s why we were so keen to talk with you today and share this story. It has to give you tremendous professional satisfaction.

Seconds away from the final “Reveal!”

John: It really does. That’s the whole reason I got into the hair replacement business in the first place. I want to be able to help people from the inside out. Often our profession is misconstrued as being from the outside in. People think it’s just about the image, but it really isn’t. If you make someone feel better on the inside, then that outward appearance looks even better because they are confident and they glow.

Journal: Looking forward, how will Raelynn maintain her hair? Will she be able to style and care for it herself?

John: Kids are always on the go and in a hurry. We chose to give Raelynn CyberHair because it’s very easy to take care of. You can swim, play sports, drag it through the mud – it’ll take anything you can throw at it. So maintenance is going to be very easy for her. We did give Raelynn some simple lessons however. We showed her how to shampoo her hair, and she knows that every 4 to 6 weeks she’ll need a deep conditioning treatment. But, other than that, her hair will pretty much take care of itself. It’s more forgiving than human hair. It’s a heat resistant fiber and I think it’s going to be perfect for her.

Journal: Will you be seeing Raelynn again?

John: Definitely. Hopefully, about every three weeks just to keep up with her style. She loves her hair… and she is such a joy to be around!

Journal: So many people in this industry got started because a friend or relative had suffered from hair loss. Wouldn’t it be nice if Raelynn chose to make a career in the hair business?

John: That would be awesome! I’d be glad to mentor her when that day comes!

John Rutter is owner of John Rutter Hair Design in Uniontown, Pennsylvania and John Rutter Hair Solutions in Morgantown, West Virginia.

Wow! Is that really me?

18 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Seen

and

Heard S

Cesare Ragazzi Roadtrip For the last twelve months, Italian hair company, Cesare Ragazzi has travelled the length and breadth of North America to introduce studio owners to its unique products and marketing program. And in April 2014, they were on the road again, starting in California, pausing for the 20th Live Surgery Workshop in Orlando, and then moving on to visit other businesses up and down the East Coast.

Cesare Ragazzi CEO, Stefano Ospilali was accompanied in his travels by stylist, Eliana Bottiglierri from Milan and US consultants, John Vincent and Lance Centofanti. In S. California, the team visited Transitions affiliate, ‘Natural Look.’ Sima Hilde (2nd from L) and Arnold Hilde (3rd from R) Dermatex in San Diego to deliver new hair systems, and Bette Graff’s in Riverside where Eliana and Evan Stears took measurements (they call it “Parameters”) for systems for two women. One will be a featured full-cap model with 20” long hair at the CRL Conference, July 19-21. On the journey between San Diego and the Inland Empire, Lance and John paid a courtesy visit to The National Hair Journal.

The team then travelled north to take parameters on 4 new systems at Arnold and Sima Hilde’s

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L to R: Lance Centofanti, Bette Graff, John Vincent.

Stefano Ospitali (center) with ‘Natural Solutions’ in San Jose, followed by ‘Hair by CNC model, Nicole Maples.

Janet’ in San Carlos, Tom & Kim Norman at Hansen Fontano in San Francisco and Gary and Debra Long’s upscale studio in Sacramento.

The road trip to Florida brought the team to HCI Hair Solutions in Orlando, Shannon Sobora’s (of Undercover Boss fame) Hair Solutions of Tampa, Dan and Andrea Green’s elegant West Palm Beach studio and finally to Dennis Howell a.k.a. ‘Dino’ and his daughter Gia. The accompanying photograph where Dino and Gia are seen exchanging a dollar bill needs some explanation… it just happened that the very day Cesare Ragazzi delivered the CNC hair system Gia is pictured wearing, Dino sold his business of some 40 years to Gia and her husband! The photo documents the deal!

L to R: John Vincent, Gia Howell, Lance Centofanti and Dennis Howell.

All in all, the Cesare Ragazzi team visited six studios in California and four in Florida - and if that were not enough, they are already planning an invitation-only conference and workshop in Las Vegas!

A Family Business Gets Personal Walker Tape is a family business, and like most families it is proud of its neighbors and friends. But instead of BBQ’s and block parties, Walker has built a new video studio where it creates short film clips to help customers get to know its products and share technical advice and tips. To date, Walker Tape has posted over 60 of these userfriendly videos on ‘YouTube.’ Shane Stott, CEO Walker Tape comments, “We are not like the big corporations where one size has to fit all; we can adapt new technologies to suit the special needs of the hair replacement industry. We may be a niche market, but that doesn’t mean our customers have to live with generic products.” As Walker claims on its website, “We offer new products with your business in mind.”

A partial listing of Walker’s 60 ‘YouTube’ videos.

19 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Seen

and

Heard

“BVZ, “Die Zweithaar” Conference in Fulda Germany Record Turnout The BVZ, “Die Zweithaar” conference took place earlier this year at the Esperanto Hotel in Fulda, Germany and I was there to represent The National Hair & Skin Journal. BVZ is the leading hair loss conference in Europe and attendance continues to increase. 2014 had a record turnout, including some familiar guests from North America - Lucinda Beaty from Lucinda’s Hair, Rene Meier from Florida (both accompanied by their pet dogs!), Ryan Margolin from Professional Hair Labs and Michael Leigh, from Follea. Emeritus Hair Society “Ambassadors” Ane Rasch from Hamburg and Anke Becker from Flensburg also came by to say hello.

I was introduced to several of the German companies and their staff. Herr Dening, from the Dening Hair Company, Herr Aksoy from Ellen Wille and Monika Wagner from Camaflex Vertriebs and many others. Rene Meier gave a bonding workshop for the Dening Company and I was able to attend many of the other demonstrations that the German manufacturers provided such as Ellen Wille, Camaflex Vertriebs, (Aderans) Gisela Mayer, and Gfh Gesellschaft.

BVZ, Die Zweithaar

This was the 10-year anniversary of the BVZ and it was Peter Volk’s last year as President of the BVZ. At the gala dinner, they presented Peter Volk with a special award in recognition of his many years of service.

If you have not been to the “Die Zweithaar” conference before, check out their website at www.die-zweithaar.de and the BVZ website at www.bvz-info.de.

Lucinda Beaty and Rene Meier at BVZ

Guests explore new products at BVZ

YOU BELIEVE - YOU ACHIEVE On Rite 2014 Annual Conference

By Barbara Goldstein

Ft Lauderdale, FL. 02/14 - Food, entertainment

and unbelievably beautiful hair were flowing for days at the On Rite Conference in Ft Lauderdale. Four hundred hair loss specialists from all over the world attended technical and business classes, networked, shared ideas and ran their fingers through the hair of so many new and exciting designs of wigs, extensions and top of the head.

Direct from France was three time world hair-styling champion Raphael Perrier, who put on three magnificent demonstrations, followed by the best fashion show ever!

TressAllure synthetic fashion wigs were presented by designer Noriko Suzuki with all her energy and enthusiasm. Noriko introduced 23 new unique styles for today’s fashionable women. Everyone was lined up trying on the wigs and choosing their favorites!

At the conference Andy Wright announced the promotion of Rhonda McCarthy to VP of Strategy and Business Development and introduced the new VP of Sales and Marketing, Ashlee Halbe.

For the business owners and managers, the educational classes were full of valuable information.

Classes included medical billing and business planning, breaking down the art of the women’s and men’s consultations, laser consultations, successful marketing strategies on any budget, social media, and the secrets of a business owner.

Rhonda McCarthy with $1000 check for a good cause.

Kayla Martell, 2010 Miss Delaware, was radiant in her new, sassy hairstyle by Raphael! She was the perfect ‘big sister’ to the GemKids. It was standing room only as Rhonda McCarthy shared the details and success stories of the national tour of the Women’s Hair Loss Seminar with Kayla. Already studios have booked dates through the end of the year.

Hair-styling champion, Raphael Perrier.

Noriko Suzuki styles TressAllure fashion wig.

Yes, you too can dance with Kayla Martell!

The fashion show.

There’s always time for music!

20 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Guten Morgen Herr Dening

German Precision And Quality If Italy is the land of flair and passion, and France the country of romance, Germany conjures up images of Oktoberfest, quality engineering and organization. Heather Simon travelled to Germany to attend BVZ, Europe’s premier hair replacement show and to meet the continent’s major manufacturers and distributors. In this interview, Heather talks with Alexander Dening who, together with his mother, owns and manages a top hair wholesale company. The Dening Company began as a family business located in northern Germany and grew to become a major wholesaler with customers throughout Europe.

crashed. Most of the importers disappeared, but luckily we managed to survive because we had focused on medical wigs.

Over the years, our wigs have developed from whole caps to capless wigs, from net to monofilament, and from PU-front to our new ‘Super Front.’ We have specialized more and more on the needs of chemotherapy and alopecia patients. We sell only to our own retail customers. There are about 1,200, located mainly in Europe. We do not sell to the public.

Heather: Do you provide educational and sales materials?

Alexander: Our customers know they can count on our support for all their business needs. They value the fact that our products will never be sold on the Internet, so they can show our catalogues in a consultation without fearing that the customer will note the name and then order the wig over the Internet at a cheaper price. When a woman buys a wig for the first time, she needs a lot of help. It could easily take one or two hours of consultation to help her find the right wig. It is important to have a professional advisor there to provide that support.

Heather: Who manages the company today?

Herr Dening

Heather Simon: Good morning, Herr Dening, or should I say, “Guten Morgen” since we’re in Germany. Thank you for inviting me to visit your headquarters here in Hamburg. I have been working with The National Hair and Skin Journal for seven years and I’ve met manufacturers and hair stylists from the US, Canada, and Asia, but this is my first opportunity to find out how a successful European distributor operates.

Alexander Dening: It was great to see you at the BVZ show in Fulda and thank you for coming to Hamburg.

Heather: The Dening Hair Company has been in business for over 49 years as an importer and wholesale trader of wigs, extensions, and hairpieces. How did your family get started?

Alexander: My father, Karsten Dening and his friend Diether Zarm, started the business back in 1965. They lived in Spain for two years, learning the language and earning their living by exporting raw hair to New York. But to encourage local industry, the authorities introduced new regulations that prohibited the shipment of raw hair from Spain so only ready-made hairpieces could be exported.

Back in Hamburg they started importing hair-pieces from Japan and then opened up a new company called Zarm & Dening GmbH. Soon production moved to Hong Kong and from there they started to export their machine made wigs under the brand, “Belle Madame.” Several years later, “Manager Top” our men’s brand was introduced.

Both names date back to the late ‘60s and today they are well established in every European country. In the late ‘60s and beginning of the ‘70s, the wig business was booming. Not only did celebrities like Jacqueline Kennedy wear wigs, but almost every woman had at least one wig at home. After the boom, the wig business

Alexander: Mr. Zarm died in 1996, and in 2000, sadly my father passed away. Since then, my mother and I have been running the business. We bought out the other family and we are now the sole owners. When this was completed, we changed the name of the company from “Zarm and Dening GmbH” to “Dening Hair Company GmbH.” The company continues to grow and our brands are well known all over Europe. Our quality, reliable service and our focus on specialized retailers are the keys of our success.

Heather: You mentioned earlier your commitment to product quality and your company had a strong presence at the BVZ Conference in Fulda. When people think of Germany, they think of quality, precision, and being organized. How does the Dening Company express this in their products?

Alexander: First of all, we have a wide selection of styles and colors, which is necessary if you want to be a full-service supplier. Our core competence is choosing the right wig for different markets. As I said, we deliver all over Europe, so we have to keep in mind that a lady in Scandinavia will have different tastes and needs compared with someone in the south of Europe. Colors, sizes and fashions are different. Germans are known for quality, so our customers rely on our high standards.

We focus on high-end wigs, mainly hand-made styles, often fashioned with monofilament. To get a light and natural wig we try to use as little hair as possible. We also concentrate on the fitting and size of the wigs. We believe that if a wig really fits well, it can make a significant difference in how natural it looks as well as in comfort.

Heather: Do attachment methods vary from one region of Europe to another?

Alexander: Yes, this is really important. You need different kinds of adhesive for warm and cold areas. But the first thing to think about, of course, is the color of the hair. A lady in Scandinavia will probably prefer blond hair, while someone in Italy is likely to ask for darker colors. But there are many other important aspects to consider. Hair density and volume may also change according to the color, so there are many variables to consider. We have to take account of all these factors when planning what product to offer in different markets and what production techniques to use. This is our core competence, fitting the wig to the individual market.

Heather: Your website states that the Dening Company has a competitive advantage in quality, selection of products, and timely delivery.

Alexander: Yes, it comes down to the same thing I spoke about earlier. We offer a wide selection of products, but it needs to be the ‘right’ selection. You will not be a successful wig seller if you have 400 different kinds of wigs in 30 colors and the customer doesn’t know what to choose. This is our main advantage; we have the right style, the right production techniques, and the right sizes for each market. Friendly service and fast and reliable deliveries are also very important since most of our customers are receiving chemotherapy. When they visit their specialized retailer, they do not have time to wait two or three weeks. They need the wig immediately. Our mailing department will send out the wig on the same day if it is ordered by 3:00 pm. The customer can

Heather: Tell me about the ladies’ collection.

Alexander: Our biggest collection is “Belle Madame.” We have two lines under this label, “Belle Madame Hair Collection” and “Belle Madame Natural Hair Line.”

Belle Madame Hair Collection comprises about 100 wigs and 20 hairpieces, which are made from synthetic hair. Belle Madame Natural Hair Line is a special human hair collection offering 10 readyto-wear styles and 12 styles that you have to style and customize to the customer’s needs.

Heather: What do you offer to men?

Alexander: “Manager Top” is our men’s line and it focuses on toupees, wigs and partial wigs.

Heather: You offer a “fringeless hairline” for men and women. How does this work?

Alexander: We call it “Super Front - SF.” Lace fronts have been around for a long time, but in the last four or five years we have been using a new production technique.

The material is so thin that it actually sinks into the skin and you can hardly see it. This “Super Front” enables us to produce wigs with fringeless hairstyles. This was not possible 10 years ago. The new lace-front technique is so popular that we now feature it on 50-60% of our women’s wigs and most of the men’s styles. Obviously men have always wanted an undetectable hairline, but this development was also a big milestone for ladies because it allowed them to style their hair away from their face for the first time.

Anastasia Long RH Chocolate

expect to receive that parcel within one day; depending on how far away they are from us, and the kind of delivery service they chose.

Heather: Do you have other offices in other locations?

Alexander: Our main focus is Europe. Our 1,200 customers come from Scandinavia in the north down to Italy, Spain, and Croatia.

We do not own these customers. They are distributors who are closely tied to our organization and sell our products exclusively.

We also have General Agents who distribute our products. In some overseas countries we may deliver directly to specialized retailers. We have one center in America that wholesales our products, mainly “Belle Madame” wigs. Our products are different from most American products, especially the head sizes. Many customers tell us our head sizes are smaller and tend to fit better. They usually have less volume too, which from our point of view makes the wig look more natural. Our collections feature mostly hand tied styles and thin lace fronts. Our focus is mainly on high quality wigs.

Heather: Is the factory based in Germany or in Asia?

Alexander: Our factories are all based in Asia. Nowadays there is no production in Europe, except for theater wigs. Most of the raw materials come from Asia, though we may deliver some raw materials to Asia from time to time.

Heather: I recently had the opportunity to speak with Herr Westermann, owner of a-Haargenau here in Hamburg. Like many hair care professionals, he started his career in the theatre. Are actors and celebrities here in Germany willing to endorse your products?

Alexander: Our products are often used by celebrities. Even celebrities suffer from cancer and chemotherapy. However they do not want to put themselves in the spotlight when their medical situation requires them to wear a wig or hairpiece. There was a very successful movie however, called “The Lady with the Nine Wigs” about a young woman from The Netherlands who had cancer. She wrote a book about her experience and how she was re-organizing her life with wigs. I think she had nine wigs. Many of the wigs used in this movie came from our company, in particular our bestselling human hair wig, the “Anastasia Long.” It looked really natural.

We were very proud.

Heather: Is there anything else that you would like to add?

Alexander: Thank you very much for giving us the opportunity to present the German hair market to the US. The US hair market is the biggest in the world; we know that, so we are always looking for things we can learn from that market. We just had Rene Meier over who did a great seminar on how to bond a toupee to a client’s scalp. It’s great to be able to exchange knowledge and to share our view of the market with our American peers. I hope this interview will be interesting to them.

21 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

MEDICAL I S H R S Awarded Accreditation With Commendation Geneva, IL – March 31, 2014. - The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS), the largest international medical association of hair restoration surgeons, has been awarded the ‘ISHRS Accreditation with Commendation’ for six years by the Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education (ACCME) as a provider of continuing medical education for physicians.

‘Accreditation with Commendation’ is the highest level a provider can achieve.

hand to provide physicians with unmatched educational offerings in the ever-evolving field of hair restoration,” said Vincenzo Gambino, MD (Milan, Italy), president of the ISHRS. “Ultimately, our commitment to education means patients can expect high-quality patient care and enhanced treatment outcomes.”

About the ISHRS: - Founded in 1993, the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) is a non-profit medical association with a membership of over 1,000 physicians worldwide dedicated to the advancement of the art and science of hair restoration.

This decision from the ACCME was based on the ISHRS’s recent re-accreditation, a rigorous, multilevel process employed by the ACCME for evaluating institutions’ continuing medical education programs according to the high accreditation standards by all seven ACCME member organizations. These organizations of medicine in the U.S. are the American Board of Medical Specialties, the American Hospital Association, the American Medical Association, the Association for Hospital Medical Education, the Association of American Medical Colleges, the Council of Medical Specialty Societies, and the Federation of State Medical Boards of the U.S., Inc. “An achievement of this magnitude would not be possible without the steadfast dedication of ISHRS staff and members who work hand in

Protecting Your Hair From The Sun’s Harmful Rays.

Expert tips from NY expert Gregorie Guillaume

conditioning treatment should be brought into the mix and done weekly.

Just when we got used to the idea of lathering on the sunscreen from our faces down to maybe our ankles, there’s one area we don’t readily include - our hair. As the weather heats up, our precious strands are exposed to the same Ultra Violet Aging and Ultra Violet burning sun rays as our skin, wreaking all sorts of havoc like depleting it of moisture eventually breaking them. Head off the summer dry hair assault by applying sunscreen protection like Alterna Hair Care CC Cream or Rene Furterer Paris Protective Summer Oil with sunscreen - easy-to-use and off to the beach you go.

Treatments For Different Hair Types

Beware of Heating Hair Tools Limit the use of hair tools like blow driers, flat irons and curlers as much as possible. As with the sun, it can exacerbate dryness and if done in excess, can make hair weak and break. Search for heat-alternative styles like roller-setting for volume, styles that involve the use of pomades, gels and mousses and hair accessories - anything that puts the emphasis on using traditional tools like a comb, brush and your own fingers to create an awesome summer style.

Incorporate Deep Conditioning Treatments

Dr. Greg Maguire, CEO BioRegenerative Sciences.

Moisturizing is nothing new, but during the summer months especially, a deep

If your hair is on the dry/frizzy end of the spectrum and may even be color-treated let your strands get the most out of a deep conditioning treatment - one that contains shea butter, preferably, by sitting beneath a conditioning heat cap for at least 15 minutes.

Done on a routine basis will encourage elasticity and reduce breakage. The use of a heavy conditioner would be counter-intuitive for other types of hair; fine, normal, oily because it would weigh the hair down, so err on the side of caution.

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22 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

Insurance Coverage Needed for Wigs enhancement; we suffer from a recognized medical condition and need help.

While there are many ineffective products that fail to deliver successful results, Laser Hair Therapy is being hailed as a life-changing female hair loss treatment.

HairConsultant.com has produced this “infographic” to illustrate the available options to women suffering from hair loss.

The following article was submitted as a Letter to the Editor, but we wanted to print it in full, so we moved it from its usual pace under the editorial to this spot where we could include photos and more information about how to support this important cause.

Acceptance/Coping - Support groups, community chapters, online forums and counseling may serve as a reassuring outlet for women who are seeking support.

So far, I have gotten three major health insurance companies; Tufts, Blue Cross/ Blue Shield and Harvard-Pilgrim to cover the cost of wigs for people with alopecia areata without a legislative mandate. I have received six awards from the State House and one from the Wellspring/Cape Ann Families in recognition of my efforts to raise awareness of the need for health insurance support, but I won’t rest until we get legislative support.

Alternative Treatments - Currently, there are three hair loss supplements approved by the FDA. 7% of patients reportedly suffered a negative reaction when receiving one or more of these treatments.

Camouflage - Within the U.S. 75% of all faux-hair products are sold to women.

Hair Transplantation - There are some rather frightening risks associated with this method including scarring, postoperative infection, excessive bleeding, delayed healing and damaged hair follicles.

Laser Hair Therapy - An effective women’s hair loss treatment option has emerged in recent years and is quickly gaining attention with it’s estimated 94.4% success rate!

To View the Full Infographic Please Visit:

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I have tried every avenue to get similar bills approved in the past, but they have been either vetoed by former governors, Weld and Cellucci, or simply ignored. It seems this devastating disease is not important enough to get their support.

Heidi Blatt addresses NAAF conference in Washington, DC. 1998.

Dear editor: I am an advocate on State Senate Bill 430, a vital bill that I have been fighting to get passed in Massachusetts for over 10 years.

If it becomes law, it will require health insurance companies to pay for hair prostheses, something they are reluctant to do today.

I’ve had alopecia areata for over 30 years, and it is not an easy thing to deal with. It is not right that millions of men, women and children suffering from medical hair loss should have to have to pay for wigs they are forced to use every day of their lives through no fault of their own. We are not looking for a free cosmetic

A finance services committee meeting was held at the end of March the Boston State House and about 8 members of the local Alopecia Areata support group testified in support of Senate Bill 430, co-sponsored by Senator Joan Lovely. A decision whether to advance the bill to the health care finance committee is expected by July 31st, 2014.

In 2007 Gov. Deval Patrick proclaimed a resolution declaring the third week of September to be Alopecia Awareness Week in Massachusetts, but we now need to get support to get this bill passed so that all who deal with this disease can get the coverage they deserve.

I hope you will consider contacting your own lawmakers to gain full support for this bill.

Sincerely, Heidi Bratt Part-time advocate and member NAAF / BSG. Website: http://www.heidibrattssenatebill.com

2015 World Trichology Conference San Antonio. 05/14 - Hair replacement specialists from the USA, Canada, England, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, India, Australia, Israel and Mexico met in San Antonio, Texas for a two-day conference that addressed the latest Keynote speaker, David Salinger (R) research and medical innovations as well as hands-on technical demonstrations and indepth lectures. Featured guest speakers included trichologist David Salinger from Australia (Hormones and Hair Loss), Dr. Kirleen Neely, PhD (Trichotillomania), Dr. Candy Lewis, Naturopathic doctor, Karla Hurtado from OnRite/ Gemtress, Bill Blatter, laser distributor, Bill Hoffman, president of STR Microscopes, San Francisco, Dr. Keisha Loftin OB/Gyn., Trichologist, Michelle Eggins from Australia (Case Studies Involving Digestion) and William Gaunitz (The Influence and Effectiveness of Demodex Suppression with pattern hair loss). Other reviews included: ‘Scarring Alopecia,’ ‘Oncology Drugs and the Effect on Hairloss’ and ‘Traction Alopecia.’

David Salinger presented his “Hair Loss Handbook,” developed for hairloss professionals. Following the conference, Salinger and US Director, Andrea Hayden of The Hair Management Group, organized a series free hair loss screenings. Hayden noted that African American women are spending 9 times the national average on hair care/loss products. * The 2015 World Trichology Conference will be held in Washington, DC. Andrea Hayden (R) with Guest

23 The National Hair Journal Spring 2014

THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL

Hair

and

Skin Society News

From The Boardroom President: Lisa Zimmerman

Client Services Manager: Heather Simon

Advisory Board: Bobbi Russell, Jimmy “The General” Toscano, Darla Smith, Howard Margolin, Lucinda Beaty. Ambassadors: Gigi Ford, Gilberto Febles, Hans Diks, Lonnie Gilbert,Yvonne Solomon.

Hello

society members, prospective members, and

visitors who just enjoy reading this column!

Over the last three months, we have been focussing our attention on the future. As the economy emerges from a prolonged recession,we are less concerned with what was, or what we should have done, and more excited about what the future holds and how to be part of it!

Last month, Heather traveled to Germany to attend BVZ, the largest hair show in Europe. Afterwards, she visited to industry leaders in Hamburg to learn about their products and how they run their business.

You can read her interviews in this issue.

We are also following the impact technology is having on hair replacement, notably cosmeceutical’s and the new generation of low level laser light therapy devices. Just as the arrival of robots in the operating room disrupted hair transplantation, so the new portable lasers offering “clinical” performance previously only available in a professional studio or clinic is redefining light therapy. Look for regular updates on these developments in our monthly Society newsletter and in these pages.

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY! LIONEL’S HAIR SYSTEMS IS LOOKING FOR A NEW OWNER

Lionel and Maria Rodriguez

Lionel Rodriguez would like to retire and take it easy. He says it is difficult to walk away from a successful business especially when you have a passion for what you do, but he is ready to put his razor, comb and shears to one side and enjoy some golf and travel.

Lionel has been in the hair business since 1957. While attending barber school, his

In parallel with these developments, we are working behind the scenes to digitize The National Hair Journal so you can read it on your iPad or smart phone. Hair Society members will get this digital content free of charge, plus a number of other online features exclusive to them.

Feel free to contact us with suggestions and requests and we will be sure to pass them on to our programmers.

Finally, it uses special pleasure to welcome Lance Centofanti to our advisory board. Lance joins Jimmy Toscano and Lucinda Beaty. They stand ready to share their experience and advice and to discuss individual consulting arrangements if you have special needs.

Here’s wishing you a prosperous and enjoyable summer – and don’t forget the sunscreen!

The National Hair & Skin Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb @nationalhairjournal.com LEGAL ADVISOR Joel Morgenthau TECHNICAL ADVISORS Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin/ Maryla Fraser CONTRIBUTING CORRESPONDENTS James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni, Editor Emeritus Marilyn Wayne EUROPEAN DIRECTOR Hans Diks

T he S ociety W elcomes I ts Latest Member Welcome Danielle Grillo! Danielle Grillo has been in the hair replacement industry for 20 years. Her hair replacement center, Transitions Hair Solutions, New Jersey specializes in non- surgical hair loss solutions for women, men and children.

Continuing education is very important to her and she constantly strives to stay informed and on top of what is new in the industry. Danielle is excited to be a part of the Society and looks forward to working with other Society members.

class went on an outing to a hair factory in Miami. At that time, hair units were still being manufactured in the State of Florida.

After receiving his licence, Lionel continued his education by attending classes at Joe Carlow’s Salon. Mr. Carlow was a professional hair designer and Lionel saw the magic in hair replacement and set about acquiring all the “hands on” experience he could from hair distributors and companies like “House of Fedur” and Mr. Albert of Fifth Avenue.

Lionel was highly motivated and attended hair conferences, visiting all the booths and networking as much as possible.

Lionel purchased Colonial Plaza Men’s Hair in 1959 and promptly changed the name to Lionel’s Hair Systems. He has proudly owned and managed this business for 55 years. For maximum flexibility, Lionel operates on a chair rental basis, rather than hiring permanent staff. There are 4 stylists, one of them being his wife Maria. He is the sole hair replacement specialist. There are a total of 8 workstations all with their own wet stations. Each booth offers clients full privacy and has a full front mirror. There is a reception area, retail display and 2 restrooms. There is also an office area with a separate entrance should a new prospect request additional privacy.

The business offers haircutting and hair replacement services. Some clients who have been with him for years still come in just for hair cuts and styling. The hair replacement part of the business offers bonding, tapeon, fusion, hair coloring (temporary and permanent), hair coloring for units, perms, designing, molding and fitting of the hair units. His offers stock and custom units. The clientele comprises approximately, 98% men and 2% women.

The salon occupies 1200 square feet and sits on a 13,00 square foot lot with parking and easy access to the salon. It is located on a corner lot at a 3-point intersection next to a city executive airport and only two miles from downtown Orlando. There are two busy shopping centers and a business park close by.

Lionel Rodriguez would like to sell his business to someone that sees the future potential his business has to offer. He is currently working three days a week and is not advertising aggressively on the Internet because he would not be able to service the influx of new clients. Please contact Lionel for more information by phoning 407-894-4431 or by email at lrodrig963@aol.com.

EDITORIAL POLICY The National Hair & Skin Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair & Skin Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous.

It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair & Skin Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry.

These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers.

Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising.

ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 626-709-6397 SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit www.nhjsubs.com or write subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com.

LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The National Hair & Skin Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair & Skin Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair & Skin Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided.

The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair & Skin Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair & Skin Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair & Skin Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair & Skin Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair & Skin Journal Media Kit. COPYRIGHT The material published in The National Hair & Skin Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL 39252 Winchester Road, #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Tel: 626-709-6397 Info@NationalHairJournal.com

Lionel’s Front Reception

Lionel’s Styling Room

Printed in USA

24  The National Hair Journal Spring 2014