2012 Fall

1 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Education

Hair Replacement

Hair Replacement

Medical

The New World of Attachments

Are You Getting Enough Fiber?

Meet the GhostMaker

An Update from Darla Smith

Nick Dimakos has the answer

Howard Margolin

New Solutions from Dr. Lin

Page 6

Page 20

Page 16

Page 10

Volume 16 No 63

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Are You Mobile?

The world shipped 500 million smart phones last year and is on track to ship even more in 2012. And with mobile web traffic up 162% worldwide, we’re just getting started. In the United States, 1 in 2 mobile users carry a smart phone. 4 out of 5 smart phone owners use their phone to help them shop. Venture capitalists invested $592 million in mobile marketing and advertising companies in 2011 (up from $128 million). 70% of college grads aged 18-49 own smart phones. Consumers aren’t just using their phones to take artsy photographs and share them on Facebook.

The consumer is going mobile, but many organizations aren’t prepared to take advantage of this new opportunity. Mobility can help salon owners communicate with clients and prospects in real time.

It offers convenience and efficiency.

Clients can receive “push” notification of upcoming appointments or the arrival of a new product. Men and women researching hair loss solutions can exchange confidential information wherever and whenever they choose. Where better to consider a cosmetic procedure than relaxing at Starbucks? Mobility is the new advertorial.

Are you mobile yet?

Smile if you think you look better with hair!

Philadelphia, 08/12 - Movie legend, Harris goes bald for his next movie, “Paranoia,” scheduled for release in October 2013. In this high-stakes thriller, rival corporate chieftains spy on each other and resort to extreme measures to succeed. Ford, who is 70 years

Female Hair Loss

Fall 2012

Follea Triumphs Over Mud

Follea is well known for its sensuous, European wigs. In fact, it often said that Follea “owns the boudoir.” So it was a surprise, and a challenge, when Ronda, a Follea “Gripper” wig wearer, recently participated in the Dirty Donkey 5K Mud Run to benefit the Multiple Sclerosis Society - and completed the mud run with her wig still in place. “I love a challenge and this event intrigued me! I had no idea what to expect, except MUD!” says Ronda, who switched to the Gripper after wearing a vacuum wig for 28 years. She wondered if her wig would stay on as she jumped over hurdles and crawled and slid through the mud. “To the cheers of my family, I exited the course with mud dripping down my face and body and caked in my hair. I was elated! I did have

to wash my hair six times to get that silky feel back, but I would do the Mud Run again in a heartbeat!” “Hearing stories like Ronda’s makes us proud of what we do here at Follea,” says President, Michael Leigh. The company is a fervent supporter of the Alopecia community and helps to raise awareness of a disease that affects over five million people in the United States. In August, Follea announced they were giving away 10,000 free Alopecia bracelets in honor of September’s Alopecia Awareness Month. The bracelets bearing the phrase, “Someone I love has Alopecia” received an overwhelming response, with requests for the bracelets coming from as far away as the Middle East & Australia.

old, actually still has his own growing hair, but he shaved it off for this role set in the corridors of power. Even though he still looks good with a bald head, you have to admit he looked even more terrific with a full head of hair and that rakish smile!

“Glam Fairy” Stars Get Extensions

Pink Hair For Hope™ SHE by SO.CAP.USA Supports Research Against Breast Cancer For 7th Consecutive Year

Mahopac Falls, NY. - SHE by SO.CAP.USA, a leading provider of hair extensions, hosted its 7th Annual Pink Hair For Hope™ campaign this fall. Clients, who donated $10 or more to Pink Hair For Hope™ in participating salons received a 100% natural, pink SHE by SO.CAP.USA hair extension. Proceeds went to The American Cancer Society™. “Since the inception of Pink Hair for Hope™, SHE

by SO.CAP.USA’s goal has been twofold: to raise money and awareness for breast cancer research and give back to women who have been through chemo and are now in remission,” said company president, Ron Cardillo, Sr. “Throughout the past seven years, the campaign has grown significantly and we are thrilled to be able to help fight this disease, while making women feel beautiful.”

To date, the Pink Hair For Hope™ campaign has brought together thousands of salons nationwide and has raised over $2.3 million.

Entrepreneur Launches MondoBaldo Lifestyle Brand “For the Bald and Proud” Atlanta, GA, 05/12 - Atlanta entrepreneur and bald guy Andrew Turpen has launched a new company, MondoBaldo, offering hip apparel ‘For the Bald and Proud.’ “For me, this is a way to set myself free, laugh aloud and say, ‘to hell with my thinning hair!’ For others, it is about a serious struggle. For all of us, it is about being proud of who we are and overcoming these outdated stigmas about baldness. And, that’s what MondoBaldo is; Part hip, part humor, and part heroic.” Despite the economy, the cosmetics, shaving and grooming industries have shown explosive growth and Turpen spotted an important niche opportunity at the intersection of the graphic t-shirt, shaving & grooming markets. MondoBaldo’s initial offering features t-shirts with Turpen’s trademarked “Solar-Powered Love Machine” to give the bald consumer a “superhero” persona.

New York, 10/12 - Reality TV has become a powerful platform for hairstylists; salon owners and professional hair care companies to showcase their services right in the living rooms of American families across the country.

So it was an exciting day for Di Biase Hair Extensions when they got an invitation to create new hair designs for three cast members of the “Glam Fairy” TV show. The show’s stars

wanted to update their hair designs before the new season went into production and then maintain that image during the taping of new episodes. Vikki Parman, the company’s CEO, traveled to New York City to personally create fashion-forward designs for Sharie Manon, Briella Calafiore and Jessica Romano.

Trichotillomania on MTV West Palm Beach, FL. 10/12 - Industry veteran and New Image University Instructor, Ricky Knowles recently appeared in the documentary series,” True Life” on MTV. Ricky was featured assisting one of his teen clients who suffers from Trichotillomania. Classified as an impulse control disorder, Trichotillomania is the compulsive urge to pull out one’s own hair, leading to noticeable hair loss, distress and social or functional impairment. Often chronic and difficult to treat, 2.5 million people in the USA may have Trichotillomania at some point during their lifetime. The disorder is diagnosed in all age groups; though onset is more common between nine and thirteen years. Most of Ricky’s clients are in their middle and high school years with low self-esteem and little confidence. Ricky helps them with his professional services, which may include the right hair cut, color treatment or hair addition to cover up the affected areas.

“Most hair loss professionals have never heard of Trichotillomania,” states Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs Corporation. “However, this is one area where our industry can really help. Working with this type of medical client is very rewarding and the services of a trained hair loss professional can make a real difference in the lives of these individuals.”

Pro Hair Labs Sues To Protect Clients

Professional Hair Labs (PHL) has started legal proceedings in the 6th Judicial Circuit, Pasco County, FL against former employee Lawrence Morris. Morris, who left PHL in May 2012, was restricted from soliciting PHL clients by a non-compete clause in his contract. However, PHL claims that clients have been notifying the company about sales calls they have received, forcing PHL to take legal action. PHL’s president Howard Margolin stated, “I regret having to take this

step but it is necessary to protect the privacy and professional interests of my clients. PHL works hard to provide the highest standards of customer support and I am asking everyone of my clients to contact me directly if Larry Morris attempts to contact them regarding hair care products.” Professional Hair Labs is the manufacturer of hair care and attachment products including Ghost Classic and Ghost Supreme cosmetic bonds.

2  The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

3 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

F R O M

T H E

Conference Season is Upon Us: The entertainment business has its Oscars and Emmys.

The financial community has executive retreats in Switzerland. And the hair industry has its workshops and seminars. We have seen a flurry of activity in the last couple of months as OnRite hosted a workshop in Las Vegas and New Image invited over 300 guests to Miami. Just across the water, The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) organized its Twentieth Annual Scientific Conference in the Bahamas. Yes, the hair management market is flexing its muscles. Looking further forward, International Hair Goods (IHI) has already scheduled its 2013 CyberHair conference in Atlanta and we hear that The Russia Collection plans a blue ribbon event to promote its premium product line. So the next 12 months promise to be exciting and we hope, prosperous! If you are not able to attend these events, look out for full reports and pictures in our special‘Seen n Heard’ section in the next issue.

Just Plain Dumb: The personal care market seems to be made up of two kinds of people; forward-looking entrepreneurs who wish to build skills and provide better customer service, and bottom feeders who are always looking to cut corners and get a “special deal.” The following story illustrates why bottom feeding is not a smart strategy. The names and locations have been changed to avoid causing the people involved even more embarrassment. John (not his real name) owns a hair replacement salon that is slowly losing clients. He learns about anti-aging and the new profit opportunities from adding skin rejuvenation. He gets prices, researches the technology and plans training and certification through the official distributor, The National Hair & Skin Society. The week before he is scheduled to complete the transaction, he decides to see if he could get a better deal on the web and discovers someone who is selling something which he claims has more features.

He tells John that instead of paying $17,000 for a facial rejuvenation device, he can pay $25,000 for something that will do bodies as well as faces. To make this bargain even more attractive, he adds that his “superior” device would ordinarily cost over $40,000. o John, convinced he has the deal of the S century, buys the $40,000 “bargain” and feels like a stud. And that’s where the problems start. It turns out that the seller had not actually paid the manufacturer for the device and was not the legal owner. Furthermore, the device no longer met the manufacturer’s current safety standards and was out of warranty. Finally, without proper training and certification, John would not be authorized by the manufacturer to use the device and present himself as an authorized dealer. Bottom line; John was $25,000 out-of-pocket, in possession of stolen property, not certified to offer skin rejuvenation therapy and unable to bring the equipment in line with the manufacturers safety requirements. hy am I taking space in this column to tell W the story? Because John is one of many people every year that try to cut corners and get a killer deal. It never works. The purpose of this

E D I T O R

newspaper is to tell readers where to find authentic, quality products and how to build the skills to use them correctly. There are no shortcuts. The companies and products you see displayed in our pages come from serious companies.

They pay serious money to display these products and to host workshops and seminars to show you how to use them. Take advantage of these resources. Buy serious products from serious people and you won’t regret it!

Say What You Mean: – As we enter the final stages of the presidential campaign, we see candidates seizing every word an opponent utters and twisting it to get a competitive advantage. Some words are so ‘loaded’ that candidates try to avoid them altogether. So if our nation’s leaders, who are not exactly known for subtlety, are walking on eggshells, how are we doing in the delicate world of personal image management? Not so well.

Hair people don’t yet get it. Dentists do. If you fix your teeth you are offered a “crown” or “veneers.” I’ve never heard of a bad crown.

A crown implies privilege and social rank.

Who wouldn’t want to be crowned? And a “veneer” is always an enhancement. Veneers add luster and finish to something precious like a work of art. So with great language like this, cosmetic dentists don’t have a hard time persuading their patients to pony up with $1000 for better looking teeth. And when you get your veneer or crown, it becomes part of you. It isn’t an add-on or accessory. So why does the hair market insist on doing the opposite? Why do we talk about “hairpieces” or “units?” Why are the people who design and create terrific styles called “technicians?”

If I were told my technician would have my piece ready in a few minutes, I would think I had entered a car dealership by mistake. And what about hair loss? I remember from the time when I gave consultations that every client thinks he or she has some hair left. No one is ever bald. Even a Benedictine monk is just “thinning.” That’s why we use language like “hair management” at The Journal, not “replacement.” “Management” means making better use of what you have, not admitting you’ve messed up and have to start over by “replacing.” And when you add more density, it becomes part of you. It’s your “new hair” not a “piece” stuck on your head. And what about the attachment itself, what would make you feel more comfortable - knowing your stylist was about to apply an “adhesive” or “cosmetic bonding?” Words bring empathy and meaning to your client relationships. Use them wisely. A market research company was recently conducting a study on teen morality and asked at what age they first “made love.”

They had to revise the questionnaire and substitute “have sex” before the teens could understand the question! Don’t let the love disappear in your salon!

Chris Webb

Editor in Chief

4 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Marketing A Franchise Group with Vision We have seen a number of high profile mergers and acquisitions in the last few months, so it is always a pleasure to introduce a new and ambitious company to the market. No industry can stay vital and exciting without fresh vision, so we welcome a new franchise group, headquartered in Canada, but with global aspirations. Say Hello to Sam Donofrio and his management team!

The Capilia Group (www.capilia.com) was founded in 2005 and now boasts 22 affiliated centres in Canada and one more in the US. The group’s mission is to offer the full range of hair loss solutions, whether preventive or corrective.

Their vision was to become the largest group of hair loss professionals in Canada, a goal that has already been achieved, and be amongst the four or five largest hair groups in the US within the next five years.

support of his three daughters and a dedicated staff, his new distribution company, NovEra International, has since become one of the largest distributors of hair replacement products in Canada. But this was just the beginning of the hair replacement passion that has engulfed the Donofrio family ever since.

The Capilia business model is based on a franchise platform, with owners being in full control of their businesses, but participating in a uniform marketing and advertising format. Ongoing training and participation in annual conventions is a core requirement. Franchisees have protected territories and benefit from a common Internet and Intranet platform (CMS) to receive and manage leads. The Capilia brand is trademarked in Canada and the US, and the company has secured the domain, www.capilia.com as their platform for online Sam Donofrio: President, CEO marketing.

Capilia centers are staffed with trained experts, supported by sophisticated software that provides in-depth scalp analysis, allowing them to recommend the proper treatment regime to treat scalp ailments and hair loss. Capilia offer a wide range of solutions, ranging from hair replacement programs to micro follicular hair transplants.

Capilia president, Sam Donofrio, a former banking executive and hair replacement client, decided to get involved in the hair loss distribution business in 1999. He was successful in negotiating an exclusive agreement with OnRite for the distribution of their products in the Canadian market. With the help and

Donofrio and his team soon realised that the hair industry was fragmented and hair loss studios needed support in the important aspects of marketing, training and sharing of best practices. So in 2005, they got together with some key players in the hair replacement industry and some major hair replacement studios in Canada and founded Capilia.

Realizing that “total hair loss solutions” included transplants and hair loss prevention in addition to traditional hair replacement; they also teamed up with two other important partners: • Regency Medical Centre in Ottawa, a medical group specializing in micro follicular hair transplants who have been in business for over 30 years. Regency has recently been accredited by the Ontario College of Physicians in this category.

company has been in business for over 35 years and offers a full range of natural products as well as the specialist knowledge and technology to make sound and professional evaluations of scalp conditions.

The Capilia business model is based on creating a strong national brand that members and consumers can rally around. Through its high standards of professionalism, it hopes to restore credibility to an industry that unfortunately is not well known or trusted.

Founder and president San Donofrio has the last word: “There is a lot happening in the hair loss replacement industry these days, including the recent purchases of Hair Club by Aderans, the same Japanese company that owns Bosley and many others. That, together with the recent acquisitions of OnRite and New Image by a Chinese conglomerate, in my opinion indicates a possible further consolidation in the marketplace. I strongly believe that our group offers a lot of opportunities for the individual studios, however I also believe that they will need to join a group to have a voice.

This positions Capilia as a go-to brand in the near future. We are approaching the US market with the utmost care and respect, and will want to join up with interested partners both at the studio and management levels to ensure our success. Dan Brummel of Madison Wisconsin has allowed us to put our foot in the water to test the model in his marketplace. We are very excited with the results”.

• Laboratoire Nature Inc. in Quebec City, a company specializing in a trichological approach to hair loss prevention. This

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I am certainly proud of all that we have achieved together at Virtual Reality/ Virtuesse and I know I leave this network in good hands. I wish all of the VR network members much love and continued success. With a new future calling, I’m very excited to explore the new opportunities in the antiaging market with particular emphasis on the skin rejuvenation, laser therapy and new breakthroughs in antiaging hair care. I believe that great hair and great skin go together and I will be working to create new programs to bring these important consumer needs together.

I am flattered to have been given the name of “the Energizer” and you will see continued energy from me as I move into this new and challenging area.

Lance Centofani

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To the dedicated professionals who worked alongside me at Virtual Reality and Virtuesse, I say a heartfelt thank you. To the salon owners, managers and beautymakers who put their trust in me, I am pleased to see the fruits of our efforts. To my special friends who said, “Go on, you can do it, Lance!” I have to reply that we have learned together that what inspires you, transforms you.

And to the market that looks to me for continued leadership and direction, I invite you to follow me as I explore the new world of antiaging premium haircare and skin rejuvenation.

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am taking this space to let you know that after 18 years helping the hair management wholesale market evolve and change direction, I have decided that the time has come to take on the new challenge of the antiaging market and other opportunities unveiling themselves in the beauty industry. Those of you who know me well are well aware that I am always looking ahead - and the personal care market needs the kind of skills we have all been nurturing for most of our professional lives.

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5 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Be Proud, Be Successful...

And Be Safe!

According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, estheticians are one of the fastest growing professions in America. In fact, they predict that esthetics employment will grow faster than the average for all other occupations through 2014. Hairdressing and cosmetology follow closely behind and are expected to grow 14 percent from 2010 to 2020.

These professionals practice a wide variety of services from facials to aromatherapy, as well as providing hair, nail and makeup services.

As the demand for these treatments increases, and as more and more professionals enter the work force, it is important that estheticians, hairdressers and cosmetologists understand and protect themselves from some of the business risks that are unique to their industry.

Taking into consideration the breadth of their service offering, along with the technological advances, it is crucial that business owners, as well as their staff, understand and prepare for the myriad of potential challenges – and consequences – that could damage their reputation, business, and ultimately, their livelihood.

There are several industry-specific challenges which can result in lawsuits - regardless of whether or not the business owner is at fault.

Many of these claims did not exist even a decade ago. Below are some examples of the more common risks that savvy business owners should be aware of, and protect themselves against: • Emotional distress: A hair restoration professional is giving a client a treatment, and unknowingly has the dryer on too high a setting, which results in scalp burns and damage to the hair itself. The client sues for emotional distress, bodily injury from the burns, and loss of wages because she could not return to work as a newscaster for several weeks. Professional liability insurance (errors and omissions insurance) protects against such claims.

• Treatment gone wrong: An esthetician applies a bonding agent or scalp treatment to the client’s skin, but the client has an allergic reaction resulting in painful and unattractive scalp sores. The client sues the esthetician. Professional liability insurance protects against such claims.

• Bodily injury: An esthetician performs a laser treatment and then sends the client home with a high-end moisturizer that gives the client a skin rash. Since the product was distributed by this esthetician, the client makes a claim for damages, blaming the esthetician for providing a faulty product.

General liability insurance protects against third-party claims for bodily injury, to the extent you are liable up to your policy limits, and related medical costs.

• Damage to client’s property: At a mobile spa party for a bridal party, the esthetician’s electrical equipment malfunctions during a makeover and starts a small fire in the bride-to-be’s home. The client sues for damages to her home and mental distress.

General liability insurance protects against third-party claims for property damage and bodily injury, to the extent you are liable, and related medical costs.

• Salon Damage: Over a long holiday weekend, there’s a short in one of a salon owner’s hairdryers, setting fire to the workstation and causing significant damage to the space. The salon owner has to close for two weeks for repairs, losing clients and revenue, as well as having to pay for the repairs and new equipment. Office insurance, which is often included in a business owner’s insurance policy, generally covers first party property damage. This coverage insures an office space against disasters, such as fire, as well as provides business interruption coverage – or coverage against lost income.

Although professional liability insurance, general liability insurance, and/or a business owners policy are not guarantees against the above issues, having either one or a combination of all, can provide the peace of mind that small business owners in the health, beauty and well-being industry need. These policies help them to operate their businesses – focusing on the ever changing technological advances and procedures that their clients are increasingly requesting – and spending less time worrying about risks.

Hiscox USA, is the first U.S. insurer to enable small businesses to purchase business insurance direct and online in real-time. In August, 2012, Hiscox announced the expansion of their professional liability and general liability policies to allied health professionals. For the first time, self-employed professionals in the health, beauty, and well-being industries can directly buy insurance tailored to the specific risks of their industry to help protect themselves against potential claims and lawsuits, even if they are unwarranted.

Coverage is currently available in 21 states, including Texas and Florida. The offering will be available in California, Illinois and New York later this summer. “Hiscox recognizes the growing allied health field and the risks associated with the industry, and we are pleased to expand our coverage to these professionals,” said Kevin Kerridge, small business insurance expert for Hiscox USA. “We understand that even the smallest claims can have a significant impact on self-employed professionals and we want to make certain that these small businesses have the resources and tools necessary to protect their business. Our offering provides affordable, direct coverage that protects them from common risks.”

Join us...

and become part oF the Fastest GrowinG networK oF hair Loss experts Capilia members’ mission is to provide a one stop solution for hairloss, from scalp health and prevention to hair loss correction, be it surgical or non surgical. currently at 22 affiliated capilia centers in canada, established hair replacement studios have grouped together to benefit from advanced training and technology, as well as develop marketing and advertising tools to grow their business.

CapiLia haS reCentLy CompLeteD itS firSt affiLiation in the uniteD StateS, anD iS LookinG for enthuSiaStiC anD paSSionate aSSoCiateS to purSue itS expanSion in ameriCa

For more inFormation

on how you can expand your business Sam Donofrio, president

1 877 838-4247 | samdonofrio@capilia.ca

Leigh Gardner, senior representative

954-661-5503 | leighgardner@novera.ca

capilia.com | capilia.ca Territories available in Canada and the United States

The Journal urges all business owners to assess their risk exposure and to take steps to protect their business. Having the right insurance can help protect you against ruinous claims and lawsuits (even if they are frivolous) that could be catastrophic, and allow you to spend time doing what is most important – running your business.

To learn more about Hiscox Small Business Insurance, visit http://www.hiscoxusa.com/small-business-insurance/ or call 888-283-7545.

Keep Your Salon Healthy New Hand Sanitizer Kills “Super Bug” & E. coli

LAS VEGAS, 06/12 – Skinvisible Pharmaceuticals, Inc. has announced the successful completion of two new studies undertaken for DermSafe®, a non-alcohol hand sanitizer, that demonstrate the product’s sustained and potent killing of both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria.

The first study tested DermSafe against “super bug,” Methicillin-Staphylococcus aureus, which is widespread in public areas including hospitals. The hand-sanitizer was shown to reduce MRSA, with a kill of 93.39% at 4 hours. The findings of the second study confirmed DermSafe’s effectivenness against Escherichia coli or E. coli.

D1696_Pub Join Us_V3.indd 1

12-10-10 16:05

6 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Education

Not Your Father’s Hair Attachment!

An Introduction to the Latest Generation of Hair Attachment Technologies

By Darla Smith Darla Smith has over 40 years experience in the hair addition market. She is one of the most talented and experienced technicians in the industry. If you have not had the privilege of meeting Darla, or attending one of her workshops, it is because she has devoted most of her professional career to product development and training with the Aderans group, and International Hairgoods in particular. Aderans its known for its massive investment in R&D and product innovation, and many of the industry’s latest technologies come from their research centers in Tokyo. In addition to their state-of-the-art factories and patent-protected man-made fibers, the company has also developed a number of innovative attachment products. Since hair replacement can only be successful if it leaves the client feeling secure and confident, The Journal decided it was time to take a closer look at the latest attachment technologies. And that led us to Darla’s doorstep.

You also don’t want to exert tension on weak hair. So you need to evaluate and balance your different attachment choices to suit your client’s personal situation. Is that client going to be water skiing or skydiving? If so, you’re going to need the kind of attachment that will hold up to that kind of challenge. So the first thing the stylist needs to do is analyze the total situation.

But it doesn’t stop there. As hair grows back - or doesn’t grow back - those attachment needs are going to change. So you may need to use multiple options or combinations to ensure long-lasting performance. Sometimes, on one area of the head you’ll use one attachment, and on another part of the head you’ll use a different attachment because there may not be enough hair to attach to, or perhaps the hair isn’t strong enough. So in today’s market with so many different lifestyles, you really have to understand your client and work with him or her to create a custom attachment. Another thing I’m hearing about is allergic reactions.

A lot of clients are allergic to different metals, so some of the clips that are commonly used cannot be placed next to the scalp. So in addition to everything else, we need to remember to ask about allergies and other medical conditions that the client may be going through. And always, when formulating an attachment, it’s not about what’s the biggest money maker; it’s about what’s best for the client!

Journal: Attachment technology has come a long way from the early days of vacuum molds, foundations and hair braiding. Could you give us a short history of the different methods of attachment and how they have evolved over the years?

Darla Smith: The industry started out with very basic attachments like adhesive tape, and then we moved into clips. There were the ubiquitous French clips, but I also remember the guillotine clips and the flexi clips. Weaves came into play about this time, then fusion point snaps and Velcro. Then came micropoint type attachments, perimeter bonds and so-called, “grafting.” As you say, we’ve certainly come a long way since those days when all we really had to rely on was hairpiece tape.

Journal: Hair Club for Men as it used to be known, made its reputation with a hair braiding process that they called a “foundation”, but this was uncomfortable and could cause traction alopecia. Today, there are a whole array of choices, which range from adhesives to tape, to clips, to micro-point, and of course braids themselves. Describe the pros and cons of these different categories of attachment?

Performaxx Ad Quick Grip Gentle little grips that hold on to fine thin hair. Ideal for clients with new growth of hair after Chemo treatments, or fine thin hair, no adhesive on scalp, and no metal. For daily use.

Journal: Is there a checklist or a special procedure that people can follow so they take all these

things into account when they are in a consultation?

Darla: No, there isn’t an actual checklist, but I’ve seen a lot of consultation scripts and client profile sheets that different salons have prepared. People today are gathering much more information. It’s not enough to record just the clients name and address and how they first heard about the studio. I’m now seeing people ask about skin conditions, allergies and if there’s any medical condition that the technician should be aware of. This is more than good business; it’s essential for client service and even legal protection.

Journal: The next question really isn’t a question at all because we know the answer. The subject is safety. When choosing a product for your client, it isn’t about price is it? It’s about choosing something that is a safe and professional.

Darla: Definitely. It’s all about safety. Not only do you have to understand your client’s situation, you also have to work closely with your attachment suppliers. Be sure you know what’s in every product before you expose your clients or technicians to it. Make sure that the products you use are medical grade and safe before you put them on. Like I said, it’s not about the dollars. Some studios get too wrapped up in seeing how many clients they can get Performaxx Ad Matte Tape in and out the door, which can lead to shortcuts. But it’s not about getting a quick turnover; Matted 3M tape created in Japan, for daily use or extended wear. Hair systems can be removed for showering or sleeping and can be re-adhered using the same tape. it’s about the client’s health as well as the way they look.

Journal: We’ve talked a lot about lifestyle. Let’s take a closer look at different lifestyles and Darla: Let’s start with the tapes. Everybody knows about tape, which comes in strips, rolls see what’s appropriate. Let’s start with men. An active man who engages in weekend sports. and specialized contours. Some of these tapes are made with liners and some come without What would be an appropriate attachment for him? liners. Different types of adhesives can be applied to each side of the liner depending on Darla: We probably would look at a bonding solution that is close to the scalp and is nonthe product and the client’s needs. Some of the removable. If it fits tight against his head, there will tapes out there now are designed for daily wear be no movement. If he has an aggressive lifestyle Aderans Finger Flex Clips and then there are the new semi-permanent tapes and likes to swim, water ski or skydive a bonding Finally a clip that does not need sewing, a time saving clip with, Flexible fingers, for extended wear. There is also a new line of attachment like this will give him that extra that hold fine thin hair. Attach to system with Red Liner tape. Easy to rotate for customers, so traction alopecia does not occur. tapes used specifically for perimeter bonds and security. then there are lace tapes that are designed to Journal: What about a professional who works be used just for delicate lace attachments. So in an office and doesn’t engage in physical that’s just tape; just one category. activity?

Journal: Let’s move on to clips.

Darla: Bonding would still work well for them, Darla: As I mentioned before, we started out but perhaps he is looking for something that with the French clip and the comb clip and is more flexible and a more removable. So for the guillotine clip. These were usually made of this client, you might want to recommend unfinished metal, but now, many of these are something that is not actually adhered to the specially coated to protect the hair. Originally, head, something like Ad-Attach or cylinders. these were sewn on by the stylist or technician, but now There are many choices and ways to hold his hair we’re coming into the new age where they can be attached with tape. Within the securely in place but perhaps not holding it quite so tightly. Tightness isn’t always clip category, there are all kinds of sizes and shapes, each one designed for a specific purpose. the best. It can produce traction alopecia and result in further thinning. Sometimes a more That brings us to the micropoint type of attachments where stylists use fusion points, snap relaxed fit can produce a healthier condition. attachments, and cylinders to secure the hair. These are no longer as popular, but they are still Journal: What about a man who just wants to look good for a special occasion? being used today. Then there are the weave types of attachments. As you pointed out, they Darla: All of the above. I can put people in tape or I can put people in a very nice clip were used extensively in the past but often used incorrectly. As a result, they caused a lot of attachment if they want a semi-permanent attachment. damage to growing hair. But now there are new types of attachments that are coming back Journal: How would you change those recommendations for a woman’s lifestyle? Let’s take a that allow you to put less tension on the hair. For example, there are micro braids where you professional woman going to work in an office each day who needs to look good, but doesn’t twist the hair into very small sections and do a lot less damage. These kinds of applications want to permanently wear a wig or hair addition. fall into the “no adhesives” category and we’re probably going to see these kinds of techniques Darla: Of course every woman wants to look good during the day, but she doesn’t want coming back as well. something extra to have to worry about. She needs to feel secure throughout the day without Journal: The further we delve into the world of attachments, the more complex it becomes. having to fuss with her hair, but in the evening she wants to be able to relax and keep things Categories subdivide into sub categories; and even within them there are lots of choices. How simple or even remove her hair. So she wants something she can quickly remove and redoes a cosmetologist decide what is the best method for her client? attach easily herself. The good news is there are a number of different clips and small gripper Darla: It totally depends on the client. Start by understanding your client’s lifestyle. Then attachments that work very well and that she can use at home. It used to be that studios would examine the client’s existing hair. The two go together. You cannot propose any solution put the client into a permanent or semi-permanent attachment that they would have to come without understanding how your client’s hair has to fit into the way they live. It’s also important back to get professional help. But today, clients want the ability to remove systems themselves. to look at their scalp condition. You don’t want to apply adhesives to open sores or lesions. Responsible studios will help clients enjoy this kind of freedom.

Continued on Page 7 ›

7 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Education in the Hair Loss Industry Pushing the Frontiers of Technology

By Elvira Amankwa, CMP The Internet, or “the Net” in short, is a huge, global network of computers, with which we browse the World Wide Web. It has become our most powerful information, communication, entertainment and business resource.

Many existing communication platforms, such is being softly, but surely nudged into the 21st as telephone, music, film and television have century. “Lectures came about several hundred been redefined by the Net. In order to survive years ago when there was one copy of the and preserve meaning in the 21st century, book, and the only person who had it was the the print publishing industry (newspapers, professor. The only way to convey the content magazines, books) have adapted to website was for the professor to stand at the front of technology and morphed into web news feeds, the room and read the book. One would hope blogs and t h a t we e-book It is estimated that more than 2.2 billion had better readers. people – nearly a third of the Earth’s The Net also added population – use the services of the Net. new facets to human interaction. Internet forums and online capabilities these days.” [Daphne Koller, discussion groups now lend support and give Co‑Founder of Coursera, Stanford’s revolutionary advice for just about any life scenario. Social online education initiative] networking takes human relationship building online. E-mailing and instant messaging And we surely do! Consider this: “The costs increases efficiency in communication. From of getting a college degree have been rising shopping for deals to checking the weather, faster than those of health care, so the need from paying bills to investing in stocks, to provide low-cost, quality higher education from cheering on our favorite sports team to is more acute than ever. At the same time, watching the world news unfold - we resort to in a knowledge economy, getting a higherthe Net and it’s sheer unlimited resources for education degree is more vital than ever. many of our daily activities. Even some of life’s And thanks to the spread of high-speed most complex decisions, such as finding a soul wireless technology, high-speed Internet, mate, are nowadays facilitated, yes, you guessed smartphones, Facebook, the cloud and it, by the Net, with 21st century matchmaking tablet computers, the world has gone from (aka online dating) now being a multi-billion connected to hyper-connected in just seven Dollar industry. years. Finally, a generation that has grown up on these technologies is increasingly The most fascinating aspect of the Net is comfortable learning and interacting with probably its lack of central administration, professors through online platforms”. [Thomas which allows for organic growth. It is estimated L. Friedman, Journalist, Author, Columnist, The that more than 2.2 billion people – nearly New York Times] a third of the Earth’s population – use the services of the Net. And as global connectivity So how does this relate to our industry, the increases, so does Internet growth. hair loss industry, you might ask? Well, many of our industry veterans ended up behind the It’s no surprise therefore, that the world of chair more by chance than by pursuit. Quite a education is also embracing the Net. Some of number took the route into the business via a the country’s leading learning institutions such cosmetology license and developed their skills as Stanford, Harvard and MIT, are creating to become a hair loss professional more or less learning environments that mirror today’s on their own. Others grew up in the business life – individuals and communities connected and followed the natural line of succession, through the World Wide Web – and now offer taking over the business from a parent. Some online learning solutions. Traditional (or saw a valuable investment opportunity and residential) learning, often anchored in ancient acquired a hair loss studio as a profitable traditions that date back to the middle ages, addition to their portfolio.

‹ Continued from Page 6

Not Your Father’s Hair Attachment!

Journal: Because of the different nature of female hair loss, which is a diffuse kind of thinning, it’s difficult to create a localized hair loss solution. So we see integrations, Micropoint Link, extensions and a much broader selection of female hair loss solutions. Could you describe some of these choices and what’s appropriate for whom?

Darla: What we are seeing with women today is that they do not want cover-ups. Even women with advanced thinning are not ready to shave the top of the head to wear a hair system like a man. Women really want to utilize their existing hair. They simply want more of it. That explains the popularity of Micropoint Links by CyberHair, which can add two, four or even six new hairs to one growing hair to give the appearance of greater density. Or they can go into an integration type hair addition which integrates their own thinning hair into a hair system or matrix that volumizes their hair. Then there are small fillers or fill-in pieces. I’m starting to see a lot of these. They can be very small, and this is what women are looking for. Something that’s small and undetectable and still utilizes their own hair. Now with all of these fillers, you also need to have an attachment that works with the woman’s hair. Sometimes just a little finger grip will do it. Sometimes a tiny clip or a loose kind of weave. There are all kinds of attachments on the market at the moment so you have to take the time to look at things like the length, the density and the condition of her hair.

Journal: You mentioned MicroPoint Links by CyberHair. This is a patented technology, available from Aderans. How does it work?

Darla: MicroPoint Links by CyberHair is a hair volumizing product that is manufactured by Aderans. CyberHair is nylon-based hair and actually has the cuticle imprinted on it. It looks

Whatever the case might be, to really be successful in this very unique industry of ours, specialized skills and knowledge are needed more than ever. Industry-specific, quality education has not been easily accessible in the past. A lot of “looking someone over the shoulder” and “learning by trial and error”. Regional manufacturer conferences here and there, and face-to-face training classes on a more local level filled a void and helped to educate the industry. But what about an industry-wide standard and comprehensive classes, ranging from basic technical skills (bonding, blending, cutting, perming, coloring, styling) to more advanced techniques? How about working with innovative, heat-resistant fibers, such as Biolon®? What about teaching modules, providing real business insights and sharp sales skills for the busy studio owner who is looking for concrete answers to pressing questions? What about the owner/manager who cannot afford to be away from his/her studio for several days in a row? How about those with tight travel and expense budgets? And let’s not forget the technician who would like to better him/herself after hours and learn more about a specific problem area where they are lacking.

With increased accessibility, increased connectivity and increased technology all over the world, New Image Labs Corporation developed New Image University (NIU) in 2010, the industry’s only online educational resource. “We saw an emerging trend in online education years ago, and decided to launch NIU to provide affordable quality education to members of the hair loss industry. Today, with budget and travel restraints, this trend is an established fact and the demand for convenient online training for professional advancement is ever increasing,” states Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs Corporation.

Currently, the NIU library of tutorials geared towards hair loss specialists encompasses over twenty class titles and New Image recently solidified its commitment to industry education by expanding its online educational efforts.

Significant resources have been allocated to produce more cutting-edge tutorials to help studio owners and hair loss technicians all over the world to simply be the best at what they do. No less than eleven new easy-to-follow classes will be available at NIU in October 2012. With direct email access to Resident Hair Experts plus a dedicated Facebook page, NIU is a vibrant community of hair loss professionals who are interested in taking their skills up a notch. “It’s this growing demand for great online industry education which encouraged us to invest in the production of additional cutting-edge class titles. We are excited to make them available very soon to hair loss professionals everywhere to help them have a leg up, boost their skills and increase their business,” shares Tony Sciara.

Elvira Amankwa, Marketing Manager

But for New Image pioneering the industry’s online technology wave, does not stop here. A completely redesigned NIU website will enhance the online learning experience. An enlarged course will offer Biolon® Online Certification and the corporate website is being completely revamped not only to accommodate 21st century technology, but also the growing demand from busy managers and owners to place their orders online in a convenient and secure environment, which translates into significant cost and time savings for them. There also will be a new blog “HairChatter”, slated to launch in October 2012. Hair matters here, with a focus on “hairy” topics, such as hair disorders, successfully living with hair loss, women with hair loss, late breaking hair loss solutions, etc.

So how about all those aspiring, enterprising, motivated hair loss professionals out there?

Those of you who have “grown up on technology and are increasingly comfortable learning and interacting with professors through online platforms”? How about you, the hair loss professional who knows that a degree equals opportunity and that education is not only the great equalizer, but also the great distinguisher and crucial for success? “YAFIYGI” - You Asked For It You Got It. Soon you will be “SICL” – Sitting In Chair Laughing! A “New Image Certified Hair Loss Specialist” or a degree in “Hair Loss Solutions” might not be light years away, but right at your fingertips, as we continue to push the frontiers of the online industry technology revolution. So stay tuned! Right now, you might be :-/ (skeptical). But those who know how to ride the technology wave, will benefit from it and will be – at the end of the day - happy, very happy :-))) New Image Laboratories is a leading hair products distributor located in West Palm Beach Florida. For more information, call 1-800-359-4247.

and behaves just like human hair, but is lighter and more durable. We take a single strand of the client’s existing hair and attach additional CyberHairs to it. We can attach two new hairs, four hairs, or even six new hairs at a time. Since the CyberHair and the client’s growing hair both have cuticle, they grip together and form a secure and virtually invisible connection. So, we can dramatically increase a client’s hair density in one simple procedure. It’s amazing. For women wearing attachments or small fillers who’ve been wondering about high winds, bad weather, or going swimming, this is a great solution. They can do whatever they want to do with complete confidence because there’s no foundation or clip that might come loose. This lets them live their life the way they want to.

Journal: When you say you work “one hair at the time,” it sounds very time-consuming. Is this a lengthy process?

Darla: We are looking at about one hour, or an hour and 15 minutes. Our technicians are trained to do between 600 and 1100 hairs in an hour. Just adding 600 hairs makes a significant difference and often that’s enough. If you really want to fully volumize the top, the front and the crown, you’d probably need 1200 hairs. For an experienced technician, this would take one hour. The new hair stays in place and just grows out with your normal growing hair. We would typically recommend that a client rotates her application visits, so if her first application took 1200 hairs, the second application would take 600 hairs. And we’d schedule these visits every 4 to 6 weeks, depending on her hair growth. It’s like tanning sessions or nail fills, to keep looking good, you need to stay with the program. If you do this, you will always have volumized hair without surgery. That’s why we call it a “nonsurgical transplant.”

Journal: Is this technology available to all studios across the country?

Continued on Page 8 ›

8 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

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‹ Continued from Page 7

Darla: It’s available to all studios that are in an “open territories.” It is an exclusive product so there are limitations. Anyone who is interested should contact International Hair Goods and we will look up their area to see if there is an opening. If all goes well, they will have to submit a formal application and come in for a one-day training session so they understand the CyberHair technology. We also have 100 hair applications and 800 hair applications, so we’re expanding all the time. Right now I’m working on a new textured hair project and I look forward to bringing that to market also for MicroPoint Solutions.

Journal: Clips have come a long way since the early days. What is the latest generation of clips?

Darla: The latest product is a Finger Flex clip.

They’ve got fine prongs, like long fingers, that can grab thinner hair. The fingers are flexible and have a silicone sleeve that protects the hair when the clip is pinched. The metal surfaces on the clips are now being coated too. The old clips were rough on the hair, but now they’re being coated to give extra protection to delicate hair. The other new thing is the fact that clips don’t have to be sewn on anymore.

Sewing onto a foundation or hair system can damage the foundation, so we now have a special polyurethane strip on the clip, which allows you to use redliner tape and attach the clip anywhere on the hairpiece where it has a matching polyurethane area. This allows the clips to be moved constantly so we don’t get the traction baldness that we used to see on so many clients. In the past, a technician with a tight schedule never had the time to remove the clips and then reattach them in a different position. As a result, you’d see bald spots where the hair had been stressed. But now, moving the clips is as simple as moving a piece of tape.

Journal: At a recent conference, you exhibited something that looked like a small Velcro hinge. Do you know the device we are referring to?

Darla: Yes, that was the Performax Ad Quick Grip attachment from Aderans. It looks like Velcro, but the inside surface has little flexible hooks that attach to the roots of the client’s scalp hair. The device has an adhesive backing on the outside so it can be easily affixed anywhere where an attachment point is required. Once in place, you can wiggle the little hooks or fingers into the scalp hair.

This is great for women with top pieces who want an attachment that really grips. They come in one size, but I can trim them down as necessary. They are very flexible and feel soft against the skin. Compare them to cylinders or a metal clip which are hard on the head, especially when you lay down or if you sleep on the side of your head. At our Cyberworld conference I wore this new attachment and it was so comfortable that I completely forgot that it was on my head.

Journal: Are these clips available on the open market or are they for just for Aderans clients?

Darla: All our attachments are available for every studio.

Journal: What’s new in the world of tape?

Darla: We are seeing more specialized tapes.

There are heavy-duty tapes and then there are newer tapes formulated specially for sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is becoming an issue for many people because they may have been using tape for a number of years and their skin is now reacting to it. Our scalp is like our face; it needs to be treated with the same respect.

That’s why Aderans has created a tape called AdMatte tape. It was developed in Tokyo in collaboration with 3M. It is a matte, no-shine tape with a flexible strong liner. It has amazing staying power and can hold up to swimming and vigorous activity. It is snug and firm and can be worn daily. But the beauty of it is that the client can reattach it after wearing their hair system, and can use the same tape for days. The client can take it off and jump in the

shower, scrub their scalp really well then put their hair system back on with the same tape.

The other great thing is that it can also be used as a perimeter bond or an overall bonding. It comes in tape form, not a liquid bond, but it can be used around the perimeter for 4 weeks.

It is a unique product.

Journal: Is this is a client-controlled attachment indicative of a new trend?

Darla: Yes. Removable technology is growing.

It is part of a general trend towards safer attachments that are kinder to the skin. Many of the solvents and removers used in the past were harsh. There are new products available today that are effective and safe. Look at the labels and choose carefully. If you are attaching with a bond or adhesive, use a solvent from the same company. When you’ve done your research, stick with the same line of products.

Journal: As a researcher and educator you have seen a lot of new products cross your desk? What are the new breakthroughs we can look forward to?

Darla: There are lots of things that come across my desk, some good and some not so good. Some of them are really strange. For confidentiality reasons, I have to be careful when talking about them. There are certainly exciting things on the horizon. From a strictly personal point of view, I am pleased to see the growing concern for the health of technicians as well as the clients who use our products.

Journal: Are there two product features on your personal wish list you would like to deliver today?

Darla: Anti-aging hair. Everybody needs anti-aging help, from their skin to their hair and everything else. We all need hair that is age appropriate. It has to be very simple but comfortable and non invasive. Age appropriate for our lifestyle. Nobody needs more stress in their life.

Journal: Finally, looking into the future, where do you see the hair addition market in 5 years time? There is a shortage of high quality human hair, so might we be looking at the synthetic hair market, a luxury goods market, or do you think cosmetic surgery could become the preferred choice?

Darla: Men’s hair systems are moving more into created hair and blends with human hair.

We should see many new fibers coming to the market. Cosmetic surgery will continue to grow as it has for the last five years, but I expect to see the non-surgical market split into new segments to keep pace with the changing market. There will be continued advances in hair additions for women and I am happy to see the efforts manufacturers are putting into creating fillers and add-ons for women. It is because of the women’s market that our industry continues to grow. High quality human hair is still out there and clients want that and seem ready to pay for it. Luxury human hair is what our clients have been taught to want.

About Darla Smith… in her own words: I attended cosmetology school and had a great teacher who taught me a lot about wigs. The owner of the school wore wigs all the time and always styled her wigs. I knew from that point on, that I wanted to work in the wig business. I worked in a regular hair salon for one year for experience, and then went to work for Strafford wigs in Minneapolis. After four months (1970), I was approached by the owner of Alan Arthur Company (a men’s hairpiece tape company) to come and help them start a hair replacement manufacturing company. I was 20 years old and very fortunate to be given such an opportunity. They sent me to Los Angeles for training and then to a hair replacement factory in Korea. Allen Arthur later became International Hair Goods (IHI).

International Hair Goods was purchased by Aderans in 1987, and I came along with the purchase. I worked in the retail part of IHI (DK international) for 10 years while I was raising my family of two children. Michelle Schumm, the DK technician and IHI educator is my daughter. So she was born into this business and has followed in her mother’s footsteps. I am a grandmother of three, with one more on the way. I have been married for 42 years and my family is my life. Besides acting as technical director of IHI, I am involved in R&D, product development and education. I have been affiliated with IHI/Aderans since 1970 and have never done anything else - or would think of doing anything else. I am still as excited by this business as I was the day I started. When you see the tears of happiness because you changed someone’s life with hair, it is worth it. I say we change lives one hair at the time!

9 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

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Interview Bloopers

The best part about Journal interviews isn’t always the part we publish. In this short summary, we share some of the great lines that got left “on the cutting room floor.” We invite you to smile along with us.

Matthew Parker – about Vern Shears, Winter 2011: “The shear is in your hand for a lot less longer period of time.”

Chris Prior, OnRite, Winter 2011:

Marketing Solutions, Winter 2011 in response to following request: “The report should be factual and only feature significant new developments... all Matthew Parker – about Vern Shears, commentary should be strictly objective, no Winter 2011: hyperbole or advertising claims.”

“To answer your question, ‘When are prices going to go down?’ I don’t have that answer.”

“You may use those tools intermittently at different times to actually blend the hair...”

“The Hair Loss Control Clinic’s effective multi-therapeutic approach provides the best odds for the best possible results.”

10 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Medical

FEMALE HAIR LOSS Why

By Susan Lin, M.D.

it matters more than ever

she also wants a product that will make her hair appear younger, thicker and fuller. The product has to meet all her anti-aging needs.

It’s important to understand the difference between male and female hair loss. Female hair loss is more diffuse and the hair becomes progressively thinner, more brittle and lacking in luster. This process can be accelerated as the result of environmental and hormonal changes or dieting, childbirth, menopause and stress. It is a fallacy to think that one product can work equally well for men and women. Female hair loss is more complicated and more difficult to address. Most importantly, the psychological

and emotional impact of hair loss for women is particularly acute.

I was drawn into hair loss research because, like millions of woman, I also have thinning hair. Extensions were beautiful, but it was embarrassing when the plastic attachment was exposed. I tried topical scalp products, but they were messy and irritating and interfered with my hair styling. And if I was frustrated, it’s an even bigger problem for women with oily scalps. They already have to shampoo every day and they certainly don’t need to add another procedure to their routine. Anything that leaves a residue only makes the matter

worse. These women need a product that will save time by eliminating the need to shampoo and style every day - in other words something that addresses hair loss AND reduces scalp oil. There are other factors too, things that are important to women that men might not even think of. For example, is the product color safe? Is the packaging discreet? In short, the market needed a woman’s touch.

Because of my experience in anti-aging medicine and woman’s health, I wanted to develop a simple solution for today’s modern lifestyle. I could see the need for busy women Continued on Page 21 ›

More and more women are holding professional positions and becoming breadwinners. Today, millions of woman enjoy significant intellectual and economic power. They represent one of the key growth engines of the future... and one of the largest marketing opportunities.

Women have always led the way in style, fashion and personal care. But some segments of the market have struggled to keep up with this dynamic demographic. The hair care market is a good example. As the average woman’s life expectancy continues to exceed that of men, demand for female hair loss solution continues to rise. But there few products that address both female hair loss and the related issue of anti-aging. Today’s woman is not just looking for a hair addition, Before

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11 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Women

and

Beauty

Why I Got Into Skin Rejuvenation

By Kobsa Fennell Since Cathie Kobsa Fennell started skin rejuvenation in her salon six months ago, she has had little spare time. It was Lori Preston in a recent issue of The Hair & Skin Journal who warned, “When it comes to building an antiaging program, be careful what you wish for,” and Cathie is living proof that once you start offering skin rejuvenation therapy, you routine will never be the same.

Ordinarily, The Journal likes to sit down with the people it interviews, but this time it was simply not possible. We had sent a questionnaire to Cathie ahead of time so she could think about her answers, but she could never stop the clock long enough to get across a table with us. So we asked Cathie to reply in writing a little at a time, and this is a summary of her response, written between client skin rejuvenation sessions.

to come and demo their machines, I talked to friends that were doctors and I must have Googled just about everything online.

Since then our salon has had three microcurrent machines. I’ve also hired another aesthetician who is into skin care as much as I am. She also loves the concept of microcurrent for facial rejuvenation.

Micro-current in general helps tone facial muscles, just as exercise tones muscles of the body. The problem with our other Microcurrent machines I tried before Neurotris was the fact that they were • Not powerful enough to tone larger facial muscles.

• Not regulated, so the current reaching the facial muscles wasn’t delivering a constant signature.

• They took too long to produce visible results.

Journal: Cathie, as background to this That’s when my husband contacted The Hair conversation, could you describe who you are and give a brief summary of your experience in the beauty industry.

Cathie: My name is Cathie Kobsa Fennell; I am a Master Cosmetologists & Aesthetician since 1989 and the owner of Salon Greco in Suwanee, GA. I am a service provider in the salon, performing both hair and skin services.

For over 10 years I was the only esthetician in the salon. We built our business on European techniques and products, offering clients alternatives to services they could find at every other salon in town. I always look for products and services that give “instant gratification” or can provide visible results that the clients can feel either on their hair or skin.

Our salon/spa offers all hair services including hair extensions and treatments for thinning hair, skin care, massage, nail services, hydrotherapy and airbrush tanning. Over the last 20 years I have had the privilege of working with some of the industry’s top companies in both hair and skin care. Our salon is known for offering the latest in products and techniques, our ‘open house specials’ and our ‘intro’ deals.’ We put a lot of emphasis on social networks such as Facebook.

We e-mail regular newsletters and create our own in-house flyers and marketing materials.

We also do text-messaging and recently created our own iPhone App. I believe that in today’s fast-paced world it is important to have instant communication with your clients and keep them anticipating the next new thing you are going to introduce them to.

Journal: What led you to introduce microcurrent anti-aging therapy?

Cathie: Micro-current is a “natural” way to facial rejuvenation. It tones the facial muscles and is an ideal facial treatment for women over 50. By “natural” I mean there is no surgery involved, no stitches, no down time, no harsh chemicals, no damage to the skin. Also, I wanted our spa to offer more than other spas provided in their treatment rooms. I wanted to give clients more options than just regular facials and chemical peels.

Journal: How did you first learn about micro-current?

Cathie: I studied micro-current briefly while I was in cosmetology school. I got the first micro-current machine for our salon in 2006 after watching a Suzanne Sommers infomercial. She was selling her own microcurrent machine for home use, but the information she shared got me to investigate the subject. I read everything there was to read on facial micro-current, I got companies

Society (now The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation) and found out they had discovered THE Miracle Machine – The Neurotris. SX-3500. The minute I read the brochure and learned that it can give visible results within an hour… I was impatient to find out more.

Journal: As with any new technology, salon owners need to be convinced that this really works. What steps did you take to research this technology?

Cathie: Micro-current is routinely used in other fields such as Chiropractic medicine, Physical Therapy, and other medical specialties, so I knew this was a powerful technology. But I needed to know more. Today, you can research just about anything online and that’s what I did. I learned about Micro-current in general and read reviews on treatments within our industry and related fields. I constantly go to the Web as my source of knowledge - I recently read an article on Metabolic Cardiology that explains ATP (cell energy) and bioenergetics of the body. This information re-enforces the use of Micro-current in the medical field. It’s good reading. AHEEEHAPJHEMHAKGKAMFPLOGBDMLDGAABLPIGPAHEEEHA Check it out: Metabolic BNFFFNBPNDACIHBKIGILAHFHADMOAKIPJGEHEPBNFFFNB LCEAPFFPNBGECPAKEDGIBBEHAHPDFMIKIGNLCJOJPKHEI NMEIBNFOJCKOHOBIDAJDCKIGCIJMMHFIOJONPAIIOMICH Cardiology is “the New FEOPKEFAEFPDBCDELIKDFBOGJPEFJLPFHEAGGDEDMHFJC DOJPAHFHAMGFKNFDBKCGAHFHANNIHAJNMMNLAHFHAMHJJ Cardiology.” http://www. OECLFFFAGBAIDOELCDJAAHFEENODICMDODGECDCDFCMGH DLPFPLFLJHNDHHNDOBNCEDOOCKFBKBOEBJJFEEDKANHIL HKCKIDFOPCKCBCPKKGCMEPILINHCHLBKMPMIKAIOOKDPB ENNFFNEHCGANDCGOJDPGAHFHACJIMHMBIDOMAHFHAGKGP heartmdinstitute.com/ APBBBPAPIKBNFBEANKNNHEGAENDGMJGAHDBMBDGDHCBFG HHHHHHHPPPHPPPPPHHPPHPPPHPPHHPHPPHPHPPHHHHHPP index.php/metaboliccardiology/basics?tmpl=component Journal: And now, the key question–does it really work? Is this a gimmick or the real thing?

Cathie: The benefits of Micro-current are not a gimmick. Micro-current therapy is pure science and is being used in the medical field.

The data is there for anyone (esthetician and client alike ) to research. Neurotris combines the science of micro-current with advanced engineering to allow an esthetician, like me, (who is not a medical doctor) to give instant results to a client who is not ready for cosmetic surgery. The proof is in the before and after pictures we get from our clients.

Journal: Do your clients see meaningful results?

Cathie: Most clients are amazed at the results.

The ones who do not see a difference are the clients who have unrealistic expectations.

Journal: How are your clients reacting to this new therapy? Are they as excited as you are?

Cathie: We made sure we got the client excited by talking about the treatment a lot.

Women today are searching for ways to look younger, but most of them do not want to consider surgery. And to tell you the truth, there is no “Miracle Cream” out there that Continued on Page 15 ›

The Russia 12 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

It’s all about the hair

For more information call 855-378-7742, email: info@TheRusiaCollection.com or visit www.Th

a Collection 13 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

ut Great hair doesn’t just happen

Remember when European hair really came form Europe?

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Why Russian hair is best

The best way to match your client’s own hair is with premium European hair that has not been exposed to harsh chemicals. And the best remy hair today comes from Russia. It’s the best match for the average American or European client. It has the right thickness (denier). It does not require harsh chemicals to change its color, and it comes with its protective cuticle intact. In other words, it’s the closest thing you can get to your client’s own living, growing hair.

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14 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

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15 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

‹ Continued from Page 11

could give you a facelift. There are a lot of creams that work on specific skincare issues, but not one that does it all. So clients are looking for alternatives.

Journal: Is skin rejuvenation something that you add to existing services, or does it replace them?

Cathie: We already had a service under micro-current, so when we brought in the Neurotis SX-3500 we decided to give the service a new name, “Face Lift Sculpting” and extend the service time from 60 minutes to 75 minutes. We still kept our old services, the ‘Ultra Sound Facial’ and the ‘Radio Frequency,’ but we now advise clients to book the “Face Lift Sculpting” since it combines all the other treatments and gives better results.

Journal: Describe a typical therapy session.

Cathie: We pre-screen clients when they make their appointment to make sure they do not have a pacemaker or metal implants that would interfere with the treatment. When they arrive, the receptionist asks them to fill out a questionnaire that will be used during the consultation.

The client is escorted to the facial room where the aesthetician performs the face to face consultation. Taking the time to consult with the client is important. The esthetician needs to gather as much information from the client as possible to determine the time it would take for the treatment to give them long lasting results and so that the client has realistic expectations.

This is also a good time to review their skin care products and introduce them to what you would recommend for after-treatment use.

I have my estheticians take notes on their clients’ skin care and skin history. Then a mirror is handed to the client so both the client and the esthetician can look at details of the face and agree on what needs attention. That is followed by ‘before’ pictures that the esthetician takes on a digital camera.

The aesthetician then shows the Neurotris machine to the client and reviews all 6 functions and what each was designed for. Then, the client reclines on the facial bed. A headband is used to hold their hair back and a blanket is placed on their lower body to keep them comfortable.

I also like to place a small rolled up towel behind their neck to elevate their chin and keep their position steady.

Conducting gel needs to be applied to the face before the treatment starts. I suggest that the esthetician checks the client’s comfort by asking if the aptitude applied is ok. If the client is not comfortable the aptitude is brought down.

I finish the treatment by applying a hydrophilic (water soluble/friendly) serum to the entire face and using the LIFT signature on the Neurotris. If I want to introduce the client to my skin care line I will add Firming/Lifting cream. When the treatment is finished I ask the client how they feel. We look at the face in the mirror and I point out areas where we got visible results. I take their ‘after’ picture and ask them if they want me to e-mail them their before & after for their records.

Before the client leaves the room, I hand them a flyer outlining all the packages we offer and go over what I feel they need in order to achieve the results they want. I bring all products I recommend for their home use to the front desk and ask the receptionist to book their next appointment.

Journal: How long do the benefits last?

Cathie: The benefits depend a lot on the client, how old they are, how well they care for their skin and how hydrated they are. One of our clients saw the results for over 2 weeks and she does not use any moisturizer or serum. The results are cumulative and last longer with a series of treatments.

Journal: Is this something you have to keep doing, or is one time enough?

Cathie: Micro-current can increase ATP (cell energy) up to 500%. Unfortunately, as our cells use the energy, they need to be re-charged. When we are working on lifting jowls or diminishing nasal folds, we are toning larger areas and creating muscle memory. It’s like exercise. The more you do it the better results you will see. I like to remind clients that we do not age overnight. Wrinkles, droopy eyes, loose jowls and necks develop over time. So it will take some time to rejuvenate them.

Some clients see a visible difference with just one treatment. The treatment can be done one time for special occasions, but it’s meant to be done as a series.

Journal: Do you need a medical license or medical supervision to perform Micro-current therapy?

Cathie: There are no restrictions on Micro-current use in aesthetics. Anyone with a Cosmetologist or Aesthetics license can perform the service. There is no need for medical supervision.

Journal: What training is required? Where can I go for training?

Cathie: I wanted to be trained by the creator of the machine, so I did not mind making the trip to California and paying the expenses to train. The machine is very easy to use once you understand the basics of how micro-current works and have some knowledge of the facial muscles.

I love working with the machine so much I have asked to be a trainer. So right now you can fly to California or come to Georgia to learn at our Spa. Journal: What about the economics? How long will it take to recover the cost of this equipment?

Cathie: We charge $200 for a 75 minute session. The package deals can be as low as $125.

With that being said, it is up to the spa owner to determine what they would price the service at. Phil would be able to figure that out. However I am interested in keeping my estheticians busy (in this slow economy) doing something new and exciting and keeping the clients coming back on a regular basis. That’s how you make the money in the long run.

Journal: How did you go about introducing your clients to this new anti-aging therapy?

Cathie: It is the rule of thumb in our company to keep clients guessing about the next New and Exciting product or service. That being said, we try to build anticipation.

Once I learned as much about the Neurotris as I could, I created a flyer with enough information on it along with a picture of a before & after (that I got from Lori & Tony), printed them out and had them ready to pass out to clients, over a month before we started doing the treatment.

Then I had a meeting with all of my staff where I gave them as much info as they needed to start talking about the service and sound excited about it. Excitement is contagious, so before we knew it the clients were asking about the treatment, how I got into it, etc. I told them enough to keep them interested and left it at that. By the time I came back from California, clients were calling to find out more about the machine and when we would be offering the treatment.

We took a month after the Neurotris arrived at the salon, to train the other two estheticians, practice and create our own case studies with before and after pictures. By that time, we had a list of clients interested in the treatment. We held a two day Open House Special trying to Continued on Page 21 ›

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16 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Hair Replacement

Meet the Ghostmaker!

The Ultimate Cosmetic Bond The world’s most precious hair demands the most sophisticated cosmetic bond.

So Professional Hair Labs was flattered to be approached by The Russia Collection to develop a new‑generation bond for its world‑class hair systems.

Utterly Undetectable– The Russia Collection is famous for its invisible knots and that meant the new Ghost Bond had to be high-performance, yet utterly undetectable. We took this challenge to our research chemists in Europe who are experts in advanced cosmetic and medical adhesives.

State of the Art– After months of laboratory research and clinical trials, we are proud to announce Ghost Supreme, which as its name implies, is in a league of its own. This state of the art cosmetic bond is not for everyone. In fact, it is probably not for you. But if you or your clients demand the ultimate in cosmetic bonding, and are prepared to pay a premium for this kind of performance, then this is your only choice.

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Why Howard Margolin made a personal commitment to product safety.

f you have attended hair conferences and workshops over the years, chances are you saw a quiet figure sitting at the back of the room, saying little, but absorbing everything. He would be wearing a suit and usually sitting alone. That was Howard Margolin, founder and CEO of Professional Hair Labs. His company is based on the feedback he gets from meetings like these.

Since opening its doors in 1994, Professional Hair Labs has been committed to developing the safest and best performing line of adhesives, removers, scalp treatments and shampoos.

Margolin was a successful music executive when he was asked to make a small investment in a struggling hair replacement company. Although he didn’t know it at the time, this was to be the beginning of a lifelong commitment to the hair industry. His career found new purpose when his wife became seriously ill after working with the chemicals that were commonplace in the hair industry at the time. Shocked and saddened by this turn of events, Margolin pledged himself to developing the first collection of totally safe, yet high performing, professional products. The rest is history. Professional Hair Labs today proudly states that it is the “world leader in cosmetic bonding.” In this interview, Howard Margolin shares his poignant story.

Journal: This is an important conversation because it will give readers of the Hair and Skin Journal an insight into your professional career and how you came to be obsessed with product safety. Let’s go right back to the beginning. Unlike most of the people we talk to, your career did not start in the hair business, or even with your own hair loss. In fact, even today, you sport a head of hair that could put a man in his 30s to shame!

So share with us those early years and tell us how it all began.

Howard Margolin: When I was a teenager, I attended the Christopher Columbus high school in the Bronx. In my sophomore year, I put together a vocal group... and two years later, after I had graduated, we had the number one record in the country!

Journal: With money now invested in a hair business, we imagine you got involved in the management and marketing. How did this compare with the energy and excitement of the music business?

Howard: If music was fast-paced and glamorous, my first contact with the hair market was a nightmare. It turned out that Journal: What was the person I tried to the name of the record? help was his own worst enemy. After four weeks, Howard: “ O v e r I discovered he was a drug the Rainbow”, sung addict and any money by a group called The that came in got burned Demensions. up the same night. He used to disappear for three Journal: So there days at the time, and I was you were, a young man left to manage the studio. barely out of high school, But it wasn’t all negative, with a huge success on because that’s where I met his hands. How did you Mary, my wife. She was handle it? the head technician at the Top Selling Hit “Over the Rainbow” time.

Howard: I handled it pretty well. Success may have come quickly, but the music business Journal: Is there a light at the end of is by no means easy and like many other this tunnel? people in that industry, I learned the hard way.

We started with a small label, but the company Howard: Yes, but not immediately. After ran into financial problems and we had to put several weeks of this kind of mismanagement, up some of our own money to make sure all the sheriff was ready to come and put a lock the records got distributed. So on the next go on the door, so I did some research, found a around, I forced the label to sell our contract new location in New York and within three to Music Corporation of America, which is hours I had the whole studio moved to Fifth the parent company for Decca Records, Coral Avenue. The new place was called “Mr. Alberts” Records and Brunswick. and it was right in the center of Manhattan.

Journal: Did you become part owner of this new center?

Email: info@prohairlabs.com USA: 1 800 778 4247 Germany: +49 (0)30 2089 6831 UK: +44 (0)20 3286 0094 Ireland: +353. (0)1 442 8808

Margolin with recording mementoes

“Often Imitated. Never Duplicated.”

Howard: It didn’t actually come onto my scene; it came onto my brother’s scene.

He began to lose his hair at the age of 21 and started wearing a hair system. But the people he was going to got into financial difficulty and, since I was doing so well, he asked me to help out. I didn’t know it at the time, but that was to be the beginning of a series of investments in the hair industry.

Journal: Sounds great. You were now in the big time. So how and why did hair come onto the scene?

Howard: I was supposed to become a 50% partner, but once again, the hair market proved to be a tricky place. One day, I caught this person Charlie talking with Albert about promises given to him and his role and participation. So I asked, “What’s going on?” And he answered, “Don’t worry, I’ll give you half of my 50%.” And I said, “It doesn’t work that way! I will not be back tomorrow morning, but you will know that what you just did is going to cost you dearly.” So I bought a small beauty shop in New Jersey, fixed it up and opened up my own place of business...

17 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

and, of course, my future wife went with me as head technician!

Howard: Surprisingly well. The industry was ready for safety.

Journal: You had a tough introduction to the hair business. But you decided to stick with it.

Journal: Since then, the company has prospered. It has taken on a new identity, Professional Hair Labs, and today it’s not only manufacturing a selection of safe products, but an advanced cosmetic bonding collection.

Tell us about that.

Howard: I’m not a quitter. We developed the studio in North Bergen, NJ and within a

Howard: Three years ago, we came out with a product called “Ghost Bond.” This was a high-performance cosmetic adhesive and it became an instant hit. Next came “Ghost Bond XL” and “Ghost Mist.” All of these products are state-of-the-art and can be used with complete confidence. My commitment to product quality is absolute. You will not find harmful ingredients in anything with my name on it.

Howard Margolin

Journal: How do people know what’s in your products?

year and a half, I had built a brand-new place in Fort Lee. In spite of everything, I was now a Howard: If you go to my website and successful hair replacement owner and operator. look up each of the products, you will see About this time, I began collaborating with right next to each item a button that says Jules Bornstein from Monte Carlo Hair, which “Direction Sheets.” Click on the button, and was the biggest hair replacement company it will take you to a list of all the ingredients. in the country. This relationship led to the When you examine that list, you know it’s a creation of HRS, Hair Replacement Systems, safe product. the first hair replacement network.

Journal: If you go shopping in the Journal: When was all this taking place? supermarket, you know the ingredients to avoid – things like saturated fats. But what Howard: About 1976. should cosmetologists look for on a product label?

Journal: We have traveled with you from your record producer origins to your role as I list all my ingredients on a detailed MSDS sheet and I tell a hair replacement my clients that if other companies don’t do the same thing, manager. But there they should be cautious about buying that product. was another change yet to come; how did you move from client service into product development?

Howard: It’s not always easy to do your homework. If there is an ingredient in a Howard: We had been buying adhesives cosmetic product and it’s less than 1%, the and removers, everything we needed, from manufacturer does not have to disclose it different suppliers without really giving much on the label. I list all my ingredients on a thought to the products. We just placed the detailed MSDS sheet and I tell my clients orders and they delivered the goods. But the that if other companies don’t do the same manufacturers and distributors had no idea thing, they should be cautious about buying what was in those products, or if they did, that product. they didn’t care. People weren’t as concerned about ingredients and safety as they are today. Journal: If somebody reading this Over the years, my wife started getting very interview says, “I don’t know if the products sick and we traced it back to the fact that she I’m using are safe or not,” what should they was inhaling the fumes from the products she do? was putting on her clients 8½ hours every day.

Without knowing it, she had become a victim Howard: Tell them to get the MSDS sheet, of toxic poisoning. This was back in 1992 and send it to me, and I’ll let them know.

I made a commitment at that time that this would not happen to other cosmetologists. Journal: You mentioned earlier that My family was paying a terrible price and this you work with some of the top chemists and could not continue. So I put together a team researchers. But you also work with some of of biochemists, and in 1994, we released our the industries top designers. first “safety” product.

Howard: It is important to get feedback Journal: What was it called? from people who work with my products every day. One of the most respected experts in this Howard: Flex-a-Bond. business is Jimmy, “The General,” Toscano.

Jimmy has been my international educator for Journal: How did the industry respond? the last 14 years. All my products are tested Continued on Page 18 ›

Reseach lab

18 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

‹ Continued from Page 17

for at least six months prior to release. If the results come back and they are not 100% satisfactory, that product does not get released.

Journal: We understand there is a new generation of Ghost products about to be released that is designed to work with the new “Russia Collection” of hair additions.

Howard: The Russia Collection is famous for its “Invisible Hairline” and this posed a new challenge for us. When the knots and the skin are that undetectable, the bond has to be exceptional. We began working on new formulations several months ago and we have now created a premium line that promises new levels of invisibility.

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Journal: A number of companies wants to give back to the community they live in or to the environment. They may plant a tree, cut carbon emissions or support a charity. How does Professional Hair Labs plan give back?

H o w a r d : We believe charity begins at home. My clients have supported me over the years and gotten me to where I am today. They are my community. If Journal: So Russia the industry is suffering Collection clients because of the soft now have their own economy, these are premium bonding agent, the people I want to and clients who stick support. So I plan to with their existing hair announce in the next replacement product edition of The National can continue with what Hair and Skin Journal we call “Ghost Classic?” that I will take five dollars off the cost of a Mixing Vat Howard: That’s bottle of Ghost Bond right. Regular clients can continue to use and give it back to my customers.

Ghost Bond or Ghost XL. Russia Collection clients can upgrade to “Ghost Supreme.”

Journal: Professional Hair Labs is a family business. Would you like to introduce the Journal: You talked earlier about your people behind the products? commitment to product safety and it now seems that the beauty industry in general is waking up to the importance of safer cosmetics.

Howard: That’s right. It’s very gratifying.

I see a greater awareness of product safety right across the marketplace today. Take Johnson & Johnson. J&J has made a commitment to clean up their act and take all bad ingredients out of their products within 3½ years. That makes me feel good. I started my campaign in 1994 and here we are in 2012. It took this long to get this message across, but I’m delighted to see that major companies are now picking up on it.

The Competition

Daryl Margolin

Howard: Absolutely. I am fortunate that I don’t have to worry who’s going to carry on my commitment to the hair replacement industry, because my two boys are already on board and making important contributions to the business. Darryl, who is 27, works with me here in Florida and Ryan, my eldest son, is based in Europe and works in our International Division.

Journal: Looking ahead into 2013, what can we expect to see from Professional Hair Labs?

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Journal: We understand that you are back pioneering once again because, not only are you producing safe products, you’re also concerned about the environment.

Howard: I have been asked by my clients to develop a high-end tape. I’m also considering developing an all-natural line of shampoos and conditioners which will be sulfate free.

Howard: I do not want to poison people, Journal: Professional Hair Labs is owned nor do I want to poison the environment. So, and operated by Biomedical Research and in addition to safer product formulations, Development Incorporated. The name of this we have also been taking a closer look at company implies that you will be expanding our bottles and packaging. Most bottles in into other personal care opportunities. common use today will not disintegrate when they are empty. These bottles are put into a Howard: That is correct. Hair replacement landfill after use and remain intact for many is just one part of personal care and antiyears. My company is now looking into bottles aging. Our industry is changing rapidly and that will break down and recycle in the ground we have to change with it. Just look at the within one year. In 2012, it’s not enough to demographics. You see an aging population look out for the safety of clients and their that refuses to grow old. These are people technicians, it’s also our responsibility to look who need our help and our products. My job out for the safety of the world that we live in. is to make sure that those products work as promised and, as Google says, “Do no harm.”

19 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

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20 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Are You Getting Enough Fiber?

The Journal talks with Nick Dimakos, founder and CEO of SureThik Inc., a leading supplier of cosmetic hair fibers.

Hair fibers are a profitable and growing product category that has been largely ignored by hair

replacement owners. However, powerhouses like Bosley, Hair Club and Lexington International, makers of the HairMax LaserComb, were quick to see the marketing opportunity and now distribute custom fibers of their own. Nick has over twenty years experience in hair replacement. The Journal first met him when he was a consultant at Hair Club for Men in Toronto, one of Hair Club’s earliest and most successful franchise centers. Today, Nick Dimakos owns three hair replacement centers of his own as well as the expanding SureThik company. We invited Nick to tell readers how he discovered keratin hair fibers and how to add them to your client service program.

Hair & Skin Journal: Nick, you have

ND: Absolutely. In the early days, there weren’t

made a lifetime commitment to the hair replacement industry. How did it all begin?

Nick Dimakos: We have to go back to 1985. I was a young man in my 20’s and just finishing university. I had begun to work for two companies here in Canada, one was a small local company, the other a US national chain called Hair Club for Men. At Hair Club I got a remarkable business education.

I got to know the business, the clients and the technology. Most of all, I came to understand the powerful emotions behind losing your hair and from that point on, there was no looking back.

Journal: Has that knowledge served you well throughout your career?

a lot of good hair loss options. Rogaine and Propecia were not yet available, and surgery was still scary and expensive. Hair systems, as they came to be known, were archaic by today’s standards… although at the time, we thought they were fantastic! In spite of these shortcomings, hair systems still sold well and a lot of people were making a lot of money. The hair replacement market was just taking off!

Journal: How did hair fibers come onto the scene?

ND: There was a commercial on TV at some point that showed a man spraying some kind of dye or coloring agent on people’s heads. It created some excitement because it showed people getting an instant solution. That got people thinking, and shortly after, some other

companies started making an even more realistic product, hair fibers. They used a coarser product, made with a heavier material, but when it was shaken onto somebody’s head it would stick. With a bit of hairspray these first generation hair fibers could be made more secure and they actually looked pretty good from a distance.

Journal: At this point, were you wearing your entrepreneurial hat and saying, “This is a serious profit opportunity,” or were you looking at it through your hair consultant’s eyes and saying, “I wish I could offer a better solution”?

ND: Well, we actually used to offer these products ourselves. We didn’t make them at the time, but we offered these products to people who were thinking about a hair transplant, or people who’d just had a hair transplant and wanted a temporary cover up solution.

As time went on, we discovered new needs and opportunities. For example, how about someone who has a wedding on Sunday and doesn’t want to show a bald spot in the photos.

Journal: So you used it as a temporary measure until something more permanent became available?

ND: That’s right. But we quickly noticed that clients were becoming very dependent on these products and kept coming back for more.

However, there were some user limitations.

Firstly, you had to have a lot of hair for the

fibers to work since this was still a fairly heavy product. And the colors weren’t as natural as they are today so you couldn’t always guarantee a perfect match. Then there was the matter of consumer acceptance. People were still embarrassed to use these kinds of products, especially men. Today, the opposite is true.

Men are shying away from hair transplants because they’re discovering that fibers can buy them three or four more years of having a full looking head of hair. And women love this product because they don’t have to go around with noticeable thinning. We gear a lot of our business towards women now.

Journal: Let’s go back to basics. What exactly is a hair fiber?

ND: A hair fiber is a sophisticated cosmetic product that creates the appearance of a fuller head of hair. It is made from keratin, just like actual strands of hair. We happen to use wool, baby wool, rather than peoples’ own hair because is much finer and has a natural static property so when you cut each strand into little pieces it sticks to the customer’s hair and scalp. It is sold in a special jar or custom shaker cap that has about 150 little holes punched in it, so when you shake it, fibers are sprinkled evenly into the client’s hair.

Journal: When you worked at Hair Club, you were trained to use special words to describe their products. What is the language that people should use with hair fibers?

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21 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

ND: Stylists see it as a “hair powder” or simply, “little hairs.” They talk about adding “little our monthly hair cutting business as a result of people using our fiber products. Now we’re hairs” or “hair thickening fibers.” Those are the buzzwords.

Journal: Are these little hairs or new fibers secure? Will they become detached if I go out in a high wind?

ND: The hair fibers stay in the hair because, unlike the earlier formulations, they’re very fine and cling to your hair. It’s really hard to dislodge them unless you wash with soap and water.

In fact, if you’re caught in a high wind, or even if you’re blow-drying your hair, we typically find that our fibers get even more secure because they get driven deeper into the hair and scalp.

It’s really hard to get this stuff out once it’s applied to your hair.

Journal: I’m going on a hot date tonight. Do I need to keep her fingers out of my hair?

ND: No, but just to be safe you can put a bit of spray on your hair after applying the fibers.

We have a thickening spray called “Boost” and you can give your hair a quick shot to kind of lock everything in place if you want that extra security.

Journal: When I go to bed, will I find fibers on my pillowcase?

ND: No, especially if you don’t use excessive amounts. If you use the recommended amount and perhaps a thickening spray such as Boost, you won’t have any problems.

Journal: When it comes time to remove the fibers, what is the procedure?

ND: Just shampoo your hair in the normal way. The shampoo loosens the static bond from the fibers and dislodges them from your hair. If you just wet your hair, some fibers will still remain, so you should use shampoo.

Journal: Who is the ideal client?

ND: Anyone who’s in the early stages of thinning. Someone who has been losing their hair for a few years only, or women who are hitting that age where their hair naturally begins to thin out.

Journal: You commented earlier that fibers are particularly valuable for women because the way they thin is different from male pattern hair loss. Could you elaborate?

ND: Women experience a diffused kind of thinning. It’s not as localized as men. Women’s hair tends to thin all over. They often like to focus on certain areas too; whether for styling reasons or because of traction alopecia caused by tight braids or extensions. Some women only want to thicken the part area while others might want to build up the sides if their temples are thinning. We also run into women who want to thicken up the parts where extensions couldn’t work because there wasn’t enough hair to grab onto. Women like this product. They’re used to using cosmetics and for them this is just one more cosmetic option.

Journal: How do the fibers look up close?

ND: You can’t spot them. You can’t see them.

Journal: Is this a therapy that you use in combination with other hair loss solutions?

ND: Strange as it may seem, we often use fibers on hair replacement systems. If a client needs a hair addition done to a hair system and it’s not available, or if they have a spot in their hair system that they want to thicken, then this will do the job and instantly minimize any risk of embarrassment. It can also be used right after a hair transplant to camouflage the redness, or while a person is waiting for a transplant to grow out. But the most common application is when the transplant is completed but the client wants even more density.

Journal: So whether you’re a physician doing transplant surgery, a hair replacement specialist offering hair systems, or simply a consultant trying to give somebody time to make a decision, fibers have a role to play?

ND: Absolutely. In our own hair centers, we often use fibers as a “call back” marketing tool for people who haven’t made a decision on their hair loss solution yet. If they’re thinking about a hair transplant, or a hair system, we’ll call them back after a week or two and say, “By the way, we have this method we can offer you to give you thicker hair in seconds. Can I get you to come by for a free demonstration?” They usually come just to see what it is and they end up purchasing the product almost every single time. Then they become regular clients and start buying from us every month. This gives us a chance to talk about their hair again and offer them a haircut or get them into a hair replacement center. We’ve actually been increasing

‹ Continued from Page 10

to have a once-a-day solution that produced fast results, after all I was one of them. I also understood that not every woman wants to use a prescription medication, even though we all want thicker, fuller looking hair. These were the needs that inspired my clinical research and ultimately led to the creation of the “MD” collection. My products are designed to complement existing beauty and hair care regimens. After years of research, I am confident that beauty professionals and their clients will be delighted how quickly they see results and this will encourage them to adhere to their hair care regimen.

My formulation takes advantages of recent advances in plant tissue culturing. We are able to selectively harvest cells from certain plants and generate cultures rich in plant stem cells and complex compounds that can act as natural liposome to deliver powerful antioxidants and factors needed to protect and fortify “anti-aging” skin cells. The botanical extract is eco-­friendly and produces an exceptionally high purity with up to 1000-x active concentration. One of the key botanicals is Lilac. The medicinal properties of Lilac are well documented throughout N. America and Europe. The phenylpropanoid extracts in Lilac protect the plant from physical and environmental harm and in humans have been shown to have a beneficial effect in regulating sebum as well as anti-­inflammatory control and protection against oxidative stress by scavenging harmful free radicals. In fact, the

introducing laser into our centers and that’s another great way to expand our product offering.

Journal: Clients can buy fibers online. Why should they buy them from a hair loss professional?

ND: We find that people are more comfortable buying from stores than online, especially if they’re already visiting those stores. They can be sure they’re getting the right color and a quality brand and knowing that a professional stands behind the brand is very reassuring.

And, of course, buying from a local store or salon eliminates the cost of shipping and the embarrassment of having the deliveryman show up at your door with a hair product.

Journal: You mentioned getting the “right brand.” Are there many different products out there and are the differences in quality?

ND: In any growing market you will find competition. We welcome that. It is important however; that customers understand that product quality is not always the same. There are a few Asian manufacturers that sell fibers that do not match the natural fibers we insist on.

They are usually made from some sort of Rayon or a synthetic blend created with a lot of chemicals. Most serious salons wouldn’t carry products like this, so that’s another reason for the consumer to buy locally from someone he or she knows and trusts.

Journal: Are there warnings or specific ingredients listed on fiber labels that people should look for?

ND: As with most things, if you can’t pronounce or don’t understand what it is, don’t put it on your head. Be cautious. We chose a one hundred percent natural approach. We think that’s the right way to go.

Journal: To summarize, what makes your fibers special and different?

ND: We believe we offer most natural hair fiber. There’s no other way to make it more natural than we’ve made it. It’s 99 and three quarters percent natural keratin or 100 percent organic wool. We just add color to that wool. We sterilize it through natural means. We dissect the fibers into little tiny pieces and we just add color. That’s it. The second feature is our product’s extremely fine texture. That makes it clings to the client’s hair and look more natural.

Journal: How can a salon manager get started with fibers?

ND: Just contact our office and we can have one of our educators walk them through the best approach for them. We have a couple of different starter kits that have all the colors preselected based on popularity. There’s also an instructional video. We’ve got people who work for us full time as educators, so a salon can call at any time and ask questions about how to use the product.

Journal: Could you help a hair replacement consultant integrate fibers into his normal consultation script?

ND: We actually have brochures that are designed specifically for this. So that’s a non-issue.

Journal: Anything else readers need to know if they are considering offering hair fibers to their clients?

ND: Our fibers come in eight natural colors. We use ash tones, not red tones, to make them look more natural.

Journal: Do salons pay a premium for the quality you’re talking about?

ND: I think our price point is very good. We’re a little less expensive than some brands even though our quality is equal in every respect.

Journal: Can fibers be a meaningful profit center?

ND: Absolutely. Hair replacement centers that we own and operate are selling over $2,000.00 per month at retail.

Journal: Do you have other support products that you market alongside keratin fibers?

ND: I told you earlier about Boost, a light, alcohol-free mist that you can spray in your hair to thicken it and secure the fibers. And we’re a few weeks away from completing a hair thickening foam that helps to make the strands of your own hair look thicker without actually making it feel sticky.

Journal: We’ll certainly come back to learn more about that. Meanwhile, thank you for sharing your memories, news and marketing insights.

Why I Got Into Skin Rejuvenation

FEMALE HAIR LOSS protective antioxidant power measured in ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) for plant culture derived lilac extract is 28,000 umole TE/mole, a factor of 1000X more than the value in fruits and vegetables. This superior anti-­aging and sebum control properties makes it an ideal element to target female hair loss.

I have called my hair care line, MD Nutri Hair Supplements. Consumers will discover that they need to shampoo less frequently after using it for just one week and they will see less hair on their hairbrush by weeks two to four.

MD Scalp Essential users will experience a decrease in scalp irritation after just one use.

This product is a must for wearers of wigs and extensions.

Here are some pictures form a recent case history. The first photo is of a woman who was not able to identify the reason for her hair loss and had a negative work up from her dermatologist. After using MD Follicle Energizer, there was an immediate improvement in her symptoms. Interestingly enough, she later developed hair loss on the areas of her scalp that had not been exposed to our product - you can see from the photos that she kept the hair where she had used our product, but continued to thin everywhere else. This was a learning experience for all of us and I am pleased to say that she expanded her treatments and ultimately got most of her hair back.

I talked earlier about the importance of providing a complete anti-aging solution, and loss of color or pigmentation is another obvious sign of aging. Of course, you can always color your hair, but what if you could keep or restore the original pigmentation?

Well, we have just completed researching a special leave-on product to reverse gray hair and we are very excited about the results. I look forward to share our clinical findings with readers of The National Hair & Skin Journal in the near future.

About Dr. Susan Lin. Susan Lin, MD is a board certified obstetrics-­gynecologist practicing in the San Francisco Bay area for 16 years. Dr. Susan Lin graduated from Boston University School Six Year Medical Program with a NIH Cancer Research Fellowship. She completed her postdoctoral training in Obstetrics and Gynecology at Kaiser Permanente Oakland, Felix Rutledge Oncology Fellowship at MD Anderson Cancer Center and Galloway Fellowship in Gynecologic Oncology at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. Dr. Susan Lin is a fellow of American College of Obstetrics and Gynecology, American Board of OB/GYN, American Academy of Anti Aging Medicine, American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine, American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Expert Reviewer for Medical Board of California and served as Assistant Clinical Professor of OB/GYN for UCSF School of Medicine. Dr. Lin owns and operates MD Laser & Cosmetics Center in San Mateo California and is also the president of La Canada Venture Inc. holding the patent for new cosmetic lash product as well as sitting on the Strategic Board for McGovern Institute of Brain Sciences at MIT and Community Gatepath for her special interest in autism. For more information, see www.mdlashfactor.com/nutrihair or email drlin@susanlinmd.com

‹ Continued from Page 21

introduce clients to the treatment. We had to extend the special to the entire month to accommodate the clients who wanted to try it.

Journal: What does it take to be successful in skin rejuvenation?

Cathie: Every esthetician today realizes that the world has changed. What worked years ago does not work today. Years ago, clients came in for regular facials and purchased their skincare from the spa. Today, clients shop Groupon, buy their skin care online and they rely on the web for the latest info. If you want to be successful, you have to have an edge… something they cannot get anywhere else.

Any service provider can make a success out of skin rejuvenation. If you love your clients, and are dedicated to bringing them the latest services and products, they will love you back.

Even the clients who do not try it at first, will ask to get more information on skin rejuvenation. Why?.... Because everyone is trying to look younger today!!

Journal: Are there any risks involved? Could micro current therapy harm the client?

Cathie: There are no risks involved with micro-current unless the client has metal implants on their upper body or has a pacemaker. The esthetician must conduct a thorough consultation to make sure that the treatment will not interfere with other procedures they might have done. If a client has had Botox, Restilane, or fillers, I like them to wait 30 days before they receive the Neurotris Face Lift Sculpting.

Continued on Page 23 ›

22  The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

23 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

Hair

and

Skin Society News

An Active Month for Society Board Member, Lucinda Beaty 2012 Cheshire Chamber

of

Commerce Member

of the

Year: The

first of many awards and recognitions that were to come to Lucinda Beaty, founder and CEO of Lucinda’s Hair & Boutique, Cheshire CT.

Count Me In for Women’s Economic Independence Business Competition: Lucinda was one of twenty Count Me In winners selected from 250 competitors from around the country. Count Me In is the leading national non-profit provider of resources, business education, and community support for women entrepreneurs.

Master’s Certification

in Hair Replacement: The American Hair Loss Council recognized Lucinda’s passion, dedication and success in the hair loss and beauty industry with this important certification. She has over 30 years of experience and has studied and worked with top professionals such as Vidal Sassoon, Paul Mitchell and Jerri Redding throughout her career. Lucinda continues her education and recently returned from the BVZ hair replacement conference in Germany. This spring she also toured hair industry facilities and factories throughout Europe and Asia to remain current in the latest products and techniques.

www.hairskinsociety.org

From The Boardroom

Board Members: Lisa Zimmerman, President National Hair Centers, Phoenix, AZ, Bobbi Russell, Hair Therapy For Women, FL, Lucinda Beaty – Owner Lucinda’s Hair, Jim Toscano “The General”, Toscano’s Hair Consultants, PA.

Welcome to your own Society Page right here in The Journal! In each issue, I try to flag new developments and products that could benefit your business. I also introduce new Society members and share their news and achievements. If you are an active member of The Society, you will also be receiving our regular newsletters and email blasts, and I invite you to tell me about new products and services that cross your desk also so we can pass on your comments recommendations – or warnings - to other members.

A key area of interest for us at the moment is anti-aging, and you have undoubtedly noticed that The Society is introducing more skin and health care products to alert you to new profit opportunities in your salon. We believe that great hair needs great skin and we actively promote skin rejuvenation as a logical extension of the hair replacement and restoration services you are already offering your clients.

New Skin Rejuvenation Program Owners – Congratulations to Deborah and Gary Long of Elite Solutions in Orangevale, CA, the latest salon owners to join the skin rejuvenation program featuring the latest micro-current technology using the Neurotris SX 3500 device. They were officially trained and certified at the company’s Irvine, CA center. For more information about Elite Solutions visit www.elitevrhair.com.

Cancer Walk: In October, Lucinda co-sponsored a cancer walk for a 24-year-old member

Skin Rejuvenation Program – The hair replacement and hair restoration market is

of her local, New Haven ski club as well as a fashion show later in the month. And on October 4, she gave a special seminar on hair loss solutions and alternatives for a local woman’s group.

looking for expansion opportunities and new profit centers. One company that continues to impress us is Neurotris, a bio-engineering group based in Southern California that has developed a skin rejuvenation device, the SX 3500, which delivers immediate and demonstrable skin tone benefits using Micro-current technology. Micro-current has existed since the late 70’s, but the latest generation of Micro and Pico current devices from Neurotris offers dramatically improved performance at an affordable price. Not only is the benefit visible right away, the income potential is substantial. A center servicing 100 clients could gross $225,000 a year or more. For further information, please contact me at 619-928-9750 and visit the Hair Society website at www.hairskinsociety.org. Once you have taken a look at the information, I can provide more details about how to see a live demo, how to purchase the device and get trained.

See a Live Demonstration of The Skin Rejuvenation System in Las Vegas, NV, December 12th-15th – You can see a live demonstration of the latest micro-current technology at the Neurotris booth at the A4M World Anti-Aging Conference in Las Vegas, NV from December 12th-15th at the Venetian Resort. For more information about this conference, please visit the website at www.a4m.com or please phone me at 619-928-9750 to register.

Heather Simon

Client Service Director About The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation: The Society was created at the request of forward-looking anti-aging specialists to help them find the information, products and educational resources they need to grow their business. Our goal is to provide the professional connections and support that it is difficult for an individual operator to find on his or her own. The Society brings together professionals from all parts of the personal care

Lucinda Beaty Cancer Awareness

Special Support

for

Post-Op Women: Lucinda’s Hair and Boutique Additions

& Extensions, a Board accredited facility, will have five certified fitters available at an upcoming open house to demonstrate hair loss and post mastectomy solutions and products. Participants can look forward to free fittings and profile for wigs, hair extensions, breast forms, pocketed and sports bras, balance shapers, compression garments and discussions on Insurance reimbursement.

Lucinda and her staff have continuously expanded their business and the studio now includes a boutique for one-stop shopping for the convenience of clients and patients for post-mastectomy products and compression garments. www.lucindashair.com We are proud to have Lucinda on our board!

industry to promote new relationships and cross-marketing opportunities. It also partners with The National Hair & Skin Journal to provide information and educational services. www.hairskinsociety.org * Translation of Latin motto, “Get In to Get On.”

Follicular Graveyard Not a place to start a business.

Bald Head Island is a village located on the east side of the Cape Fear River in Brunswick County, North Carolina. Bald Head is small and somewhat remote with a population of 294 brave souls (Wikipedia).

‹ Continued from Page 21

Journal: There are many electronic skincare

Cathie: Do your homework, learn as much Hair Journal and Skin Society. Was that a

devices – laser, LED, infra-red. How do I know which one is best?

Cathie: I produced a newsletter for my clients that reviews all available facial rejuvenation treatments. The newsletter was compiled with the help of my esthetician and covers what a treatment is, what it does, the average cost and the complication if any. I hand one to each client who asks questions about Neurotris.

By reading the newsletter they become more informed about the different procedures and can decide which treatment they want to commit to. I do not claim that Neurotris replaces any other treatment. However it does combine the benefits of several other treatments and it is an alternative to needles, scars and surgery.

Journal: What are the things I need to be aware of before I invest in Micro-current?

about Micro-current as possible and commit to giving your clients a safe and proven alternative to facial rejuvenation. Also make sure you have plenty of time to perform the services because you will be booked.

Journal: When you first told your clients about Micro-current, what was their initial reaction? How many wanted to try it for themselves?

Cathie: There were so many clients who wanted to try the service that we had to extend the Intro special to the entire month of May. Most clients had never heard of Neurotris, but they were familiar with micro-current.

We forget at times that our clients might know more about a subject than us because everything is accessible online.

Journal: You purchased your skin rejuvenation device through The National

positive experience?

Cathie: Absolutely! Once we filled out the paperwork it took just a few days before we had our Neurotris.

Journal: Finally, is skin rejuvenation something you would recommend a mediumsize salon owner to get into?

Cathie: It does not matter how large or how small the salon/spa is, skin rejuvenation is a subject that is on the minds of every client who walks through your doors. If you have a private area (it does not even need to be a full aesthetic room) where you can put a small bed, you can offer skin rejuvenation to your clients. The machine is not noisy, so it does not interfere with other services.

Just create a relaxing, sanitized space where your clients can feel comfortable and train one or two people to do the service.

If you offer skin care you probably have seen the numbers of visits as well as retail sales drop in the last few years. Do not wait until your skincare dies off. Today clients can do their own basic facials at home with equipment like Clarisonic brushes (It will clean their face better than an esthetician can), Neuface, Newskin, etc, and they have access to all the creams and serums on the web. Give them something they cannot get anywhere else.

Not only are you establishing yourself as a trendy salon/spa, but you build credibility with your clients by showing that you are staying up on the latest research and services.

I just wish I had another Neurotris to book two treatment rooms.

24 The National Hair Journal Fall 2012

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