2011 Fall

Marketing

Medical

Men’s Hair Replacement Will Revive

Robot Assisted Surgery Lead researcher outlines the benefits

pg. 16

News Makers

Industry

MicroCurrent is Here

Planning a Revolution

Steve Dimanni explains why

Anti-Aging technology that could double your profits

HairUWear’s new CMO has big plans

pg. 7

pg. 4

pg. 6

The National Hair Journal VOLUME 15 NO. 59

THE PROFESSIONAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR AND SKIN REJUVENATION

Can Fat Cells Fix Thin Hair?

Fat cells may play a role in regulating hair growth New Haven, CT. 09/11 - Yale researchers have discovered the source of signals that trigger hair growth, an insight that may lead to new treatments for baldness. The researchers identified stem cells within the skin's fatty layer and showed that molecular signals from these cells were necessary to spur hair growth in mice, according to research published in the Sept. 2 issue of the journal Cell. "If we can get these fat cells in the skin to talk to the dormant stem cells at the base of hair follicles, we might be able to get hair to grow again," said Valerie Horsley, assistant professor of

Recession? What Recession?

London, U.K. 07/11 - World cup soccer player and top scorer for English team, Manchester United, Wayne Rooney, spent £30,000 on hair transplant surgery the Harley Street Hair Clinic in London. After leaving the

Rooney just after transplant

David Beckham

clinic after two days of surgery he tweeted, "I've had a hair transplant. I'm delighted." He then flew to Barbados to recover. Back in the US, David Beckham also admitted during a comedy sketch, “I’m losing it a bit there.” It seems hairloss is affecting more and more soccer superstars. Could it be the soccer, could it be the genes... or could it be the money?

AND THE WINNER IS...

Gil Mennetrey Wins Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award The prestigious Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award was presented to Gil Mennetrey during ICRAH 2011 (International Congress Research Against Hair Loss) in France. The Randy Martin Award recognizes individuals who have made outstanding contributions to the hair replacement industry and share the drive and passion that Randy personified.

Mennetrey co-founded the respected NORGIL Hair Care Institute, as well as the world’s first children’s hair dressing salon, VERT TENDRE, and a number of other hair loss institutes around the world. He has worked with top hair transplant surgeons to create new techniques to treat hair loss and is widely admired for his branding and marketing skills. His advertising trademark is Alain Robert, also known as "The French Spiderman,” who has promoted several new clinic openings by climbing the building and hanging a banner with the center’s email address in front of TV cameras filming his stunt.

molecular, cellular and developmental biology and senior author of the paper. Men with male pattern baldness still have stem cells in follicle roots but these stem cells lose the ability to jump-start hair regeneration. Scientists have known that these follicle stem cells need signals from within the skin to grow hair, but the source of those signals has been unclear.

regeneration in mice. They also found these cells produce molecules called PDGF (platelet derived growth factors), which are necessary to produce hair growth. Horsley's lab is trying to identify other signals produced by adipose precursor stem cells that may play a role in regulating hair growth.

She also wants to know whether these same signals are required for human hair growth.

Horsley's team observed that when hair dies, the layer of fat in the scalp that comprises most of the skin's thickness shrinks.

When hair growth begins, the fat layer expands in a process called adipogenesis.

Researchers found that a type of stem cell involved in creation of new fat cells — adipose precursor cells — was required for hair

Other authors from Yale are lead author Eric Festa, Jackie Fretz, Ryan Berry, Barbara Schmidt, Matthew Rodeheffer and Mark Horowitz.The work was funded by the National Institutes of Health and the Connecticut Stem Cell Research Program.

Source: Yale Office of Public Affairs & Communications

FIRST ROBOT-ASSISTED TRANSPLANT Mountain View, CA. 08/11 – Restoration Robotics, Inc. a privately-held medical device company, today announced the treatment of the first commercial patient using the groundbreaking ARTAS™ System, the first and only FDA cleared, physician controlled, interactive, computer assisted technology that allows safe and effective follicular unit extraction (FUE).

The ARTAS System was developed in close collaboration with several leading hair restoration physicians to enable minimally invasive harvesting of hair follicles. The patient Vincent DeLany, was treated by James Harris, MD, of the Hair Sciences Center of Colorado (Denver, CO). Dr. Harris, a world-renowned hair surgeon, was a key principal investigator in the

clinical studies. “Surgeons will now be able to shorten the learning curve required to master FUE technique, deliver consistent and quality results, and meet the growing demand by patients seeking less invasive hair restoration options” commented Dr. Harris.

HEADS UP!

Jimmy Kimmel Live TV show.

The transition from totally bald to a thick head of dark hair was dramatic, but not even commented on by his host.

Howie had made a styling change, he was ready for something different, he was having fun, and for many viewers he looked great. What better role model could our industry have in a world where hair is no longer a necessity... but remains the ultimate styling accessory?

Way to go Howie…

Hollywood, CA. 08/11 - Everybody complains that no celebrity has the courage to demonstrate the dramatic difference a hair addition can make.

Most figures in the public eye are too vain, too scared or too arrogant to admit that they’ve had help with their hair.

Not Howie Mandel!

Over 16 million viewers saw Howie sport a casually styled hair addition when he guested on the

STAR TO PRINCE Just let it happen London, UK, 09/11 - Actress Jennifer Aniston gave Prince William some advice about his thinning hair on a local talk show while she was visiti n g London.

“I think he should just let whatever’s happening happen. Don’t you?” she told her interviewer. But hair-loss professionals disagree, pointing out that the balding prince could benefit from a number of procedures including hair restoration surgery. Aniston thinks other-

Jim McCollum, Chief Executive Officer, Restoration Robotics added, “We are focused on a controlled rollout to core specialty physicians, an effort that will be accompanied by educational support and technical training to ensure the highest standard of patient care.

This is just the beginning for Restoration Robotics and we are excited about bringing the ARTAS System to physicians globally.”

wise, “If we see him with a hair transplant, we’re going to be like, ‘Oh, he had a hair transplant,’ ” she said. However, cosmetic surgeons point out that today’s techniques are so advanced that the results are totally natural. Even if surgery was not an option, they still recommend that Prince William should slow his hair loss by using hair-regrowth drugs like Propecia and Rogaine.

New Dates for the ISSE Midwest Show Phoenix, AZ – The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) has announced that the ISSE Midwest event will now be held November 4 – 5, 2012 at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Illinois. The decision is the result of post-event research that indicated a market need for a large-scale beauty event, such as ISSE Midwest, in the Fall season.

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FALL 2011

Regis Urged to Sell Hair Club Minneapolis, MN, 09/11 - Starboard Value LP, the ninth largest shareholder in Regis Corporation, is telling the company to slim down. In a letter to CEO Paul Finkelstein, the New York hedge fund urged Regis to cut $100 million in costs. The fund wants Regis to pare its workforce, reorganize its North American business units, sell off Hair Club for Men and Women hair replacement centers as well as its international operations.

Starboard called Hair Club, "an attractive asset to a number of potential acquirers." In addition, Paul Finkelstein Starboard proposed that Regis should divest the 400 salons it operates in the United Kingdom and the minority stakes it holds in Provalliance, a chain of 2,760 salons in Europe, and Empire Education Group, a chain of 102 cosmetology schools in the United States. Regis is a global leader in beauty salons, hair restoration centers and cosmetology education. The Company owns, franchises or holds ownership interests in approximately 12,700 worldwide locations. Regis' corporate and franchise locations operate under concepts such as Supercuts, Sassoon Salon, Regis Salons, MasterCuts, SmartStyle and Hair Club for Men and Women.

ON RITE AT GLOBAL TRADE FORUM Washington, D.C. - Earlier this year, UPS conducted its annual forum on global trade at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Palm Beach, Florida and for the first time ever; a hair replacement manufacturer/importer was invited to participate. As one of UPS’s top 300 rev-

enue-generating accounts, the On Rite Company, represented by its president, Andy Wright, was among the companies sharing their views on the future of global trade. The forum leader was Michael Rogers, a noted futurist. Also presiding as guest of honor was former United States Secretary of State, Condoleeza Rice.

After Mr. Rogers’ keynote presentation, each table was given 30 minutes to discuss whether it thought his predictions would come true by the year 2020. Mr. Wright commented, “I was honored to be included in a panel of such notable and accomplished individuals; Mr. Rogers’ presentation was riveting, but when it came to predicting the future, we were all at a loss.

I’m certainly glad I don’t do that for a living.”

Revivogen Recognizes Hair Loss Awareness Month Los Angeles, 09/11 - Revivogen has launched a social media campaign to raise the awareness of hair loss, which affects 80 million American men and women. For every man or woman who creates a short video sharing his or her experience with hair loss, Revivogen will extend a 50 percent discount their all-natural hair loss solution. Video links will be posted to Revivogen’s Facebook page (www.Facebook.com/Revivogen) in order to build a community that can share personal stories and engage in a dialogue about the prevention and treatment of hair loss. The video with the most views on YouTube will receive a one-year supply of Revivogen products. The campaign concludes on December 1, 2011.

3 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

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Technology Rules - At a time when Apple computer has become the richest company in the United States, displacing Exxon oil, it is hardly surprising that technology should also dominate the beauty and antiaging marketplace. In our last issue, we profiled some of the new laser companies. In this issue, we look at two other technologies, robotics and microcurrent facial rejuvenation.

When we refer to “robotics,” we mean robot-assisted hair transplant surgery. This project has been in development for several years but in June 2011 the Artas Robotic Device received FDA clearance, signaling that it was safe and effective in identifying and harvesting follicular units for transplantation. Once again, we go right to the top to interview Dr. Harris, one of the lead researchers on this project and the first physician to integrate the Artas device into his own practice. Dr. Harris talks about the painstaking research... and the rewards his patients are now discovering.

We also talk with Tony Picciano founder and president of Neurotris, a groundbreaking microcurrent company. Mr. Picciano is both a doctor and a research physicist and his company combines those skills in the Neurotris skin rejuvenation device which Mr. Picciano describes in a remarkable interview on page 4. We make no secret of the fact that we believe anti-aging therapies are key to our future as an industry, and you will understand the possibilities when you read this interview.

Finally, we revisit low-level laser light therapy and Dr. Michael Hamblin, one of the world’s top laser experts, talks about the way in which light works at the cellular level and postulates that all red light of a certain frequency and energy level may be equally effective. You may need to go to medical school to fully understand Dr. Hamblin’s paper, but one thing is certain; you will put down this article knowing light therapy has serious science behind it.

The voice of the industry - that’s how we describe ourselves in our Media Kit and we work hard to live up to this promise. If there is a new product, or new research, we bring it to you so you can make better decisions. And we give manufacturers the opportunity to tell the market what makes them different. Do some companies get more exposure than others? Of course. The people who make news, by definition, are the shakers and movers. And that tends to favor the major players. The Media Kit makes it clear that there is no relationship between advertising and editorial. That said, if a new product bursts onto the scene and readers want to know who’s behind it, we’re going to find and interview the top executives for you. The Hair Journal is a level playing field and we invite everyone to participate in our pages and share their products, comments and news with readers around the world.

The invisible part of the iceberg - The Journal is also active below the waterline.

What you see in the pages of the newspaper is only the tip of the iceberg. Behindthe-scenes, we quietly put out fires, resolve disputes and take action to stop local problems from damaging everyone.

Rogue employees have learned it’s probably better to return the mailing list than risk exposure. And late-night talk show hosts have come to understand that hairloss is not funny. We are all much stronger when we pull together.

Great slogans - Perhaps because I have an advertising and marketing background, I am always memorizing powerful slogans.

Recently I was struck by the following headline from a Bosley wet goods ad, “It all begins with the hair.” Great line!

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Reminds me of another, this time from the Virtual Reality group, “Hair, The Ultimate Accessory.”

Brilliant! Another one, which we plan to use ourselves, is, “Take your face to the gym”. We will be using this headline in our skin rejuvenation campaign to tell the public that microcurrent is a better way keep faces healthy and vital. I cannot think of a better way of saying this either.

International edition? We are constantly asked to produce foreign-language editions of The National Hair Journal. It’s a logical question, but the numbers unfortunately do not make economic sense. So with apologies to our European friends, the economies of scale force us to continue to publish only an English language edition.

China, however, may be a different case.

The rapidly growing, and fashion-conscious, middle-class is creating a vibrant personal care market and this week The National Hair Journal sent an emissary to China to explore the possibilities. This is good news of course for our advertisers wanting to expand overseas, but closer links with Asia will also mean better and faster information from the Asian manufacturers who are playing an increasingly important role in the US. It’s getting faster all the time - As I write this editorial, a technician is busy upgrading our fiber-optic Internet access to provide The Journal with even faster upload and download service. What used to be fast is no longer fast enough. And so it is with the hairloss market. We have gone from a male-dominated market to a unisex, multiethnic market in the blink of an eye. We have embraced light therapy and in this issue we go one step further and talk with the scientists behind robot-assisted hair transplant surgery. And this is just the beginning. Sometimes it seems no matter how fast you run, you can never keep up.

The rate of change is accelerating, but thanks to people like Steve Dimanni you have a roadmap. Steve brings new insights in his latest article, “Five Reasons The Men’s Hair Replacement Business Will Revive In The Coming Years.” If you are a doctor offering hair transplants, you might also be concerned about the arrival of robots. If robot assisted surgery streamlines procedures and frees you up to do other things, what will you do with that extra time? Technology is impacting everyone and the question is, where do we go from here? The answer lies in the changing expectations of an aging population. The investment that baby boomers are making in antiaging products and therapies is huge and growing. Hairloss is only one sign of aging. There are others. Most notably, skin.

New phone numbers - Out with the copper, in with the bits. The Hair Journal has gone digital and with the transition, come new phone numbers. Please note our new number for general inquiries and news sharing 626-709-6397. Subscriptions and Hair Society inquiries should call 619-9289750. The number for creative services and advertising remains 626-440-1100.

Coming next issue: More cutting edge technology. To date, we’ve covered advances in laser therapy and microcurrent.

Next issue we will tell you what’s new in the hair addition and attachment technology. The alternative hair market has not been standing still - you need to know about these developments before you make any plans for 2012!

Chris Webb

Editor-in-Chief

4 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

Skin Rejuvenation The next step in anti-aging for your clients en and women today are increasingly turning to science to maintain their health and their vitality.

One of the most exciting areas is the use of electrical energy to stimulate cells or tissue in the human body. Readers of the National Hair Journal are already familiar with the benefits of low level laser light therapy to promote hair growth, but great hair with tired skin is not a complete anti-aging solution.

Today, we bring you news about a parallel technology that offers dramatic skin rejuvenation results. It is based upon new understandings of the minute electrical signals called “Microcurrents” that pass between individual cells in the body to regulate their activity.

Researchers at Neurotris in Orange County, California have analyzed these electrical signatures and developed a Microcurrent device that will revive and enhance tired or aging facial tissue. In this interview, we talk with Anthony Picciano, the founder and chief officer of Neurotris, a company on the cutting edge of natural skin rejuvenation.

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National Hair Journal (NHJ): Tony, you have a medical degree, how did you get into the field of Microcurrent technology?

Tony Picciano (TP): Microcurrent is where medicine and engineering meet... or to put it another way, where today’s discriminating client can take advantage of the latest science. We are a bio-engineering firm. That’s our business.

NHJ: Sounds almost too good to be true. What would you tell someone who asked you to prove it?

TP: Have a treatment... the best way to see what this can do for you, is to have a treatment yourself.

NHJ: When will they see results?

TP: Almost right away. A typical therapy lasts 45 to 60 min., but the results can be already be seen during the procedure as the cosmetologist or technician moves from one area of the face to another.

NHJ: If one of our readers were witnessing a demonstration, what would they see?

TP: This is a sculpting device, so we are actually sculpting the face. As the procedure progresses, they will notice a number of benefits; wrinkle reduction, face lifting, toning and tightening.

At the end of the session, the skin would be visibly brighter and healthier looking.

NHJ: These are the words that every man and woman wants to hear. As I, said earlier it sounds almost too good to be true. Is this hype or is it science?

TP: Science. I have sent you a history of Microcurrent development (see attachment at end of this interview) so your readers can follow the evolution of this important technology over the years and see how it is being used in medicine and for cosmetic purposes today.

NHJ: Are there any negative side effects?

TP: There have been no reported negative side effects with Microcurrent.

NHJ: Is this technology equally beneficial to men and women?

TP: Everybody can benefit.

NHJ: Are there any age limitations?

(left to right)Daniel Bullington, Dr. Linda Hillebrand, Anthony Picciano III, Tony Picciano, Patricia Picciano

Several years ago, a number of individuals who were really passionate about Microcurrent came to us and wanted to build what they called a “miracle machine.” We did the research and developed the science and technology to create a device that was far superior to anything that had come before. The public has been crying out for a better choice and now we can provide it.

NHJ: What actually is Microcurrent and how does it work?

TP: Microcurrent refers to bioelectric signatures that mimic the normal body’s processes of electrical energy. If we can simulate the body’s natural processes, then we are able to communicate at the cellular level and create cellular changes. When we apply specific bioelectric signatures that resonate with somatic cells of the body, we cause a perfect acoustic tune, preventing premature cellular segregation, in turn, promoting cellular pro-maturation.

NHJ: You are able to explain this technology because you combine a medical degree with your experience as a research physicist. But for us laymen, could you describe Microcurrent in simpler language?

TP: Microcurrent is today’s way of causing aesthetic rejuvenation, face lifting and wrinkle removal. It’s a new way to rejuvenate the cells.

NHJ: Does it really work?

TP: Absolutely. Research and experience in numerous domains have demonstrated its effectiveness. Better yet, the benefits increase with repeated treatments.

TP: No. But from a practical point of view, it probably does not make sense to start until you are 18 years or older.

NHJ: What about the elderly? Is there a point beyond which it no longer has any benefit?

TP: No. The results may not be so dramatic, but you will always look better, irrespective of your age.

NHJ: Is this a new technology or a new chapter in Microcurrent usage?

TP: It is a second-generation device, incorporating new science.

NHJ: How is it better?

TP: The early Microcurrent devices used a different delivery system that could only provide facial muscle toning. What we’re doing today, is total facial “re-sculpting.” There’s a significant difference.

NHJ: Many technologies used today for cosmetic procedures started out as medical solutions.

This is certainly true of hair regrowth drugs and lasers. Is it also true of Microcurrent?

TP: Yes. The history of Microcurrent document that I sent you illustrates this very well.

NHJ: Has the FDA reviewed Microcurrent technology?

TP: The FDA has actually approved a handful of small personal devices, some of which include the signatures we use in our own devices. They cannot offer the full signature package however, because that is proprietary to us and it is patent protected.

NHJ: Some of the early applications of

Microcurrent were shown to accelerate wound operator be trained and certified by us to ensure healing and help pain management. that every client and patient gets the very best TP: That’s right. Early devices were engineered results.

NHJ: Several salons are already offering for therapeutic purposes.

Neurotris Microcurrent therapy. What are they NHJ: And the lessons learned in that medical arena are now being applied to cosmetic procetypically charging for a procedure? dures?

TP: Yes. Microcurrent remains valuable in medicine, but we have discovered that it has remarkable cosmetic benefits also.

NHJ: How are dermatologists and plastic surgeons reacting to Microcurrent and its ability to enhance the aesthetics of their patients?

TP: More and more physicians are adopting Microcurrent. There are dermatologists who use our device with great results, but as with all new technologies, there are others still sitting on the fence. Doctors are always hesitant about changing the dynamics of their practices.

Typically, it is the spas and beauty shops that are the early adopters.

NHJ: So it’s a technology that’s just being discovered?

Anthony Picciano, Founder and CEO, Neurotris TP: It’s already been discovered... it’s now starting to explode.

TP: It depends on the procedure itself and to some degree the geographical location. Here in NHJ: You mentioned earlier that there are severSouthern California, we charge $195 per sesal Microcurrent devices on the market. Are all sion, but there are people who offer treatments at Microcurrent devices created equal, or do some $250. They might be adding something extra or deliver superior results? creating a special program or package. It’s difTP: They are far from equal. You get what you ferent everywhere you go. pay for.

NHJ: What differentiates a superior device from NHJ: Of course there are other skin rejuvenaan average one? tion choices. We talked about some of these earlier and you described them as “aggressive” and TP: The technology. Our device incorporates the “invasive.” latest science. It is based on serious research and medical information. Our researchers developed TP: I do not see the need for invasive procea Constant Waveform Morphology, a breakdures; not today. I put skin rejuvenation into two through in the way bio-signatures are delivered. categories; ‘trauma-based’ and ‘natural.’ Our We patented this technology in 2007. Rather machine is natural. We bring about facial rejuvethan try and explain it here, I would refer readnation in a totally natural way, whereas other ers to the last paragraph of the History of procedures like laser resurfacing and dermabraMicrocurrent. sion damage and destruct the cells with the hope that the body will generate collagen and elastin NHJ: What would you tell a cosmetologist or as part of the healing process. Our machine aesthetician who is considering adding facial doesn’t stimulate collagen and elastin through rejuvenation to their business? trauma; Neurotris machines use bioelectric enerTP: I would tell them that if they are interested gy to stimulate the body’s processes to increase in true facial sculpting, then Neurotris is the collagen and elastin naturally. only device that can do that. The other machines are not sculpting machines. We are different NHJ: You haven’t mentioned cosmetic surgery. because we are a true sculpting machine and TP: This is an invasive procedure. It is expenthey are not. sive, can be uncomfortable, and there is usually NHJ: What is your definition of a true sculpting an extended recovery time. A lot of people simmachine? ply do not want to subject themselves to surTP: It’s a machine that delivers all the signatures gery... and, unfortunately, some of the people necessary to give clients the full spectrum of a who do, wish they had not. The results can be facial treatment; toning, tightening, wrinkle unpredictable, and if you are not happy, they are reduction and lifting. That’s the spectrum of irreversible. results they should be looking to achieve. Other NHJ: Consumer Reports has recently pubmachines may provide one or more of these benlished a study indicating that creams and efits, but not all of them. lotions that promise to turn back the hands of NHJ: You talked earlier about “cellular signatime, simply do not work no matter how much tures.” What is a cellular signature, and how do you pay. you go about mapping it?

TP: It would be nice to think the anti-aging TP: Our bodies have unique bioelectric enersolution is sitting in a tube on your dressing gies. When a cell emits electrical energy on a table, but it’s not like that. They don’t work. specific wavelength, it can be mapped by scienYou won’t find clinical studies on lotions and tists. Every cell has a unique signature and it potions, but there is a mass of clinical, scientifwill respond to specific electrical stimuli. ic data on bioelectric energy.

NHJ: So your “map” of these cellular signatures NHJ: Is it possible to customize Microcurrent is patent protected and available only to therapy to suit the special needs of individual Neurotris? clients?

TP: That’s right. This gives us a significant comTP: Absolutely. That is one of its strengths.

NHJ: So, to summarize, Microcurrent therapy petitive advantage.

NHJ: Can anyone perform Microcurrent therais non-invasive. It does not destroy tissue. py?

There is no waiting time for the face to heal or TP: If you are going to work on a client or recover and you do not have to worry about patient, you need to be formally licensed either making a mistake that cannot be reversed. as a cosmetologist/aesthetician or a medical TP: That’s it in a nutshell. Microcurrent is the assistant/practitioner. We also have quality cononly totally natural solution. We are on the NHJ trols of our own. We require that every Neurotris verge of a revolution in skin care.

5 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

History of Microcurrent

salamander tails. He discovers that Microcurrent is generated from the stumps of the missing tails during the regeneration of new tails, suggesting that Microcurrent is essential to the process. The range of micro amps would later be measured with great similarity in the stumps of amputated fingers by researchers C.M. Illingworth and A.T. Barker two year later. Dr. Borgens would continue to become a pioneer researcher in paralysis and spinal cord injury.

1943 Japanese physicians discover that Microcurrent demonstrates a near 100% success rate in the fusing of non-healing bone fractures. The technology is tested on soldiers during WWII and would remain a standard in medicine to this day.

Dr. Valerie Hunt, author of The Infinite Mind, conducts studies at UCLA to see what would happen to someone completely removed from all ambient electro-magnetic energy.

Subjects were put into the Mu room and within minutes lost basic motor skills, began to cry for no reason, and lost their ability to make simple decisions. Given the amazing results of this study, she decided to see what would happen if the levels of naturally occurring electro-magnetic frequencies were increased. Subjects were able to lean at amazing angles, solve complicated puzzles, and perform challenging coordination skills. Her continued research would support the hypothesis that every cell contains a measurable voltage (the trans-membrane potential) and that life has an energetic facet that has prevented it from being explained, understood, or healed by biochemical or mechanical means alone. Dr. Hunt believed the role of the body’s Microcurrent electrical system could be influenced by electromagnetism.

1953 Reinhold Voll, M.D. invents an instrument to perform acupuncture without needles using Microcurrent. His device proves that acupuncture points have different electrical measurements than the adjacent tissue. His finding is now generally accepted in modern medicine.

1960 Reinhold Voll, M.D. releases the Dermatron, the first commercially available Microcurrent device to be used on human tissue. Dr. Voll dedicates his life to the study of the correlation between disease states and the body’s electrical system.

1961 Research by Peter D. Mitchell, Ph.D. showed that Microcurrent with positively charged hydrogen particles was responsible for the production of ATP in living cells. He received the Nobel Prize in 1978 for his contribution to the understanding of biological energy transfer through the formulation of the chemiosmotic theory - in recent years referred as ‘bioenergetics’, which is the study of those chemical processes responsible for the energy supply of living cells.

1962 Dr. Francis Crick, English molecular biologist, physicist, and neuroscientist, most noted for being one of the co- discoverers of the structure of the DNA molecule in 1953, is awarded the Nobel Prize for Physiology or Medicine for discoveries concerning the molecular structure of nucleic acids and its significance for information transfer in living material.

Dr. Crick discovered that cells replicate 50 times before dying. After this discovery, Dr. Crick used Microcurrent to improve this process. Under Microcurrent stimulation, cells would continue to replicate indefinitely beyond the normal 50 times, thus improving the longevity of cells altogether.

1975 Dr. Thomas Wing introduces the Accu-0-Matic, the first non-needle Microcurrent acupuncture instrument to be made in the United States. American physicians clamoring to learn about this new method were so impressed with the results; they quickly incorporated them in their practices. In the months and years to come, countless reports of anti-aging effects by physicians using Dr. Wing’s Accu-0-Matic would begin to surface, despite the device’s intended use to be therapeutic and not cosmetic.

1978 Richard Borgens, Ph.D., Director of the Center for Paralysis Research, Purdue University, publishes Bioelectricity and Regeneration after studying the regenerative properties of

1980 The My-0 -Matic becomes the first Microcurrent device approved by the FDA. Under advice of the FDA to reapply under the Medical Device and Cosmetology Act of 1976 and not refer to his previous device as “electrical acupuncture”, Dr. Thomas Wing releases his new model, the My-0-Matic.

It is approved by the FDA as a muscle stimulator for therapeutic purposes. The My-0 -Matic also finds life in the cosmetic industry due to its facial toning and wrinkle reduction.

—C.M. Illingworth and AT. Barker conduct studies on I 0 children with finger amputations and find that all ten wounds generated Microcurrents of I 0-30 microamps per square centimeter. The currents recorded a remarkable similarity to those obtained by Borgens et al. (1977) on salamanders, rising to a peak average current density of 22 mu A cm·2 after an average of 8 days. This becomes a landmark finding for the credibility of Microcurrent’s healing properties in modern medicine and its momentum would carry to the present day, as Microcurrent finds great promise in treating over 30 different ailments.

1982 Dr. Ngok Cheng’s research showed that a controlled Microcurrent stimulation increased Adenosine TriPhosphate (ATP) generation by almost 500% and that increasing the level of current actually decreased the results.

It was also shown to enhance amino acid transport and protein synthesis. (Cheng et al 1982). Cheng noted other changes, such as increases in collagen, elastin strength, protein synthesis, blood circulation, formation of new blood vessels, and an increase in gluconeogenesis.

1983 Oscar M. Alvarez. Ph.D. and his colleagues published a paper entitled The Healing of Superficial Skin Wounds is Stimulated by External Electrical Current.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1983; Vol. 81, Pgs. 144-148.

Reported in this paper were the effects of Microcurrent supplied by an energized silver-coated electrode on dermal and epidermal wound healing. Eleven young “Yorkshire” pigs

were wounded, and a Microcurrent was delivered by a silvercoated electrode directly over each wound through a wet dressing with the return electrode situated on another portion of the pig’s body. A self-contained, battery-operated generator was a source of “constant current.” The Microcurrent was applied as steady state direct current for 24 hours at a time over a seven-day term. During each 24-hour period, “the current intensity decreased linearly from 300 microamperes upon initial connection to 50 microamperes at the end of a 24 hour treatment period.” A large increase in “labeled collagen” was noticed but not until four and five days after wounding.

1985 Robert 0. Becker, M.D. releases his groundbreaking book, The Body Electric. In it he challenges the established understanding of the body in the medical community and points out clues to its healing process in the long-discarded theories of the 18th century that electricity is vital to the life process. The book would ignite a re-examination of bioelectrical methodology that had previously been dismissed, and, in turn, open the door to the present day explosive growth. A graduate of New York University’s College of Medicine and an orthopedic surgeon, Becker spent thirty years as Director of Orthopedic Surgery at the Veterans Hospital in Syracuse, as well as Professor of Medicine at New York University’s Upstate Medical Center.

Dr. Becker, often called “the Father of Electromedical and Cellular Regeneration Technology”, pioneered modern research regenerating injured bone and muscle using Microcurrent, a concept first developed by Japanese physicians during WWII. He proposed that Microcurrent was the life force behind all healing, growth, and regeneration. Twice Dr. Becker has been nominated for a Nobel Prize in Medicine.

—Nester and Mass in their study Nessler,). P. and Mass, D. P. “Direct-current electrical stimulation of tendon healing in vitro” Clin Orthoped, 21 7, 1985:303 used seven microamperes of direct current to speed tissue repair and regeneration of excised rabid tendon. Their stimulated group showed a 255% increase in hydroxyproline uptake compared to the baseline controls. Histologic examination confirmed the tenoblastic repair had been enhanced by electrical stimulation.

1989 Several scientists discover that by enhancing the endogenous electrical activity of the damaged tissues, the growth and/or healing processes can be stimulated or enhanced. They publish their findings in a paper called “Regeneration with purifying Rome, silver, nutrients, immune colloids “Brighton et al. 1981, Brown et al. 1988, Carley and Wainapel 1985, Kincaid 1989, Kloth and Feedar 1988, Reed 1988, Rowley et al. 1974, Wheeler et al. 1969).

1991 Erwin Neher and Bert Sakmann receive the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for their discovery concerning the function of single ion channels in cells. They developed a technique to detect picoampere electrical currents in cell membranes, which allow positive or negatively charged ions into and out of the cells through 20 to 40 types of ion channels. Their research revolutionized modern biotechnology and confirmed that electrical activity is not limited to nerve and muscle tissue, as previously thought, but belongs to the essential nature of all kinds of other cells.

1995 Branching from the study began by Neher and Sakmann (1995), Joseph M. Mercola and Daniel L. Kirsch coined the

term “Microcurrent Electrical Therapy” (MET) to define a new form of electromedical intervention using less than one milliampere of current delivered in biocompatible waveforms. MET devices have become widely used by Chiropractors and in sport’s medicine related to professional athletes worldwide.

1997 Prof. Paul D. Boyer and Dr. John E. Walker of the Medical Research Council Laboratory of Molecular Biology in Cambridge, U.K. win the Nobel Prize for Chemistry, receiving half the prize for their work on how the enzyme ATP synthase catalysis the formation of ATP. Their research indicated that a controlled modified Microcurrent stimulates the production of Adenosine Tri-Phosphate (ATP), restores the intra/extra-cellular sodium, potassium and calcium balance and increases the production of hydroxyprolin (important in collagen synthesis) which, in turn, triggers significant biochemical reactions on a cellular level, literally initiating cellular regeneration. They also confirmed that Microcurrent caused a drastic increase in the uptake of amino-isobutyric acid, which is essential for protein synthesis and trans-membrane transport. It has also been found that the recovery of the cell wall prevents leakage of pain-causing substances (histamine, bradykinine, lactic acid) - leading to a significant reduction of pain. These processes have an analgesic, antiinflammatory and healing effect on the treated tissue.

2000 Dr. Edward C. Kondrot. M.D. releases his book The Miracle Eye Cure which chronicles the reversal of Macular Degeneration with Microcurrent and a nutritional protocol of 18-25 mg. of Lutein, a good multivitamin and mineral Supplement, and bilberry twice daily. Dr. Kondrot states that vision can be improved by this protocol with evident results on the first day. Dr. Kondrot joins a current community of over I 000 medical doctors worldwide who are researching the use of Microcurrent for Macular Degeneration and reporting great success.

2005 Implementing a unique and patented form of electro-medicine, the Elexoma TM Medic TM is released to the general market for therapeutic use, applying a first of its kind “Controlled Smartcard Modulation Technique” (C.S.M.T) Microcurrent of low intensity into the body, preventing cells and the body from becoming immune to long-term treatment and guarding against obsolescence with internal flash updates. It is thought to be the most advanced Microcurrent device used for therapeutic medicine.

2007 A-1 Engineering, manufacture of the Neurotris SX Series machines, discovers a breakthrough in Microcurrent technology and patents “Constant Waveform Morphology” (C.W.M.). Constant waveform morphology was developed through the discoveries of an English scientist Michael Faraday, who invented the “Faraday shield” in 1836. The Faraday shield is simply an electromagnetic force field that blocks all external electromagnetic disturbances allowing for a PURE internal conductive medium. C.W.M. allows for bioelectric signatures to be delivered through and ULTRA PURE medium maximizing efficiency at low nano / pico currents. This is a breakthrough and sets a new standard for the delivery system for micro, nano and pico signatures.

C.W.M. will soon be the standard protocol to deliver bioelecNHJ tric energy for esthetic and cosmetic uses.

6 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

says HairUWear’s new Marketing Chief David Trocker is Chief Marketing Officer at HairUWear, a world leader in the category of ‘alternative hair’ accessories, extensions and systems for women and men. HairUWear has many well known subsidiaries in both the men’s and women’s markets.

Famous brand names include “Great Lengths,” “Hairdo,” featuring Ken Paves and Jessica Simpson, legendary heartthrob and star of 45 films, “Raquel Welch,” “Eva Gabor,” “POP” hair pieces and clip-in extensions which have recently added ‘Dancing with the Stars” contestants to their roster of glamorous women, and “American Hairlines” that offers Virtual Reality and Virtuesse collections.

In 1992, Great Lengths International developed and patented the first pre-tipped, synthesized keratin bond polymer, designed to mimic the molecular structure of human hair. The result is a bond with ability to expand and contract with human hair.

HairUWear declares its mission on the company website: “Our passion: to inspire women and men throughout the world to see all the possibilities of alternative hair. Our challenge: to continue to bring together the best minds and artistic talent to innovate and create the styles of tomorrow. David Trocker joined HairUWear four months ago and enthusiastically endorses these statements. The National Hair Journal met with him to learn where HairUWear is headed and the personal goals he has set for himself.

NHJ: David, unlike most of our corporate chieftains, you did not grow up in the alternative hair marketplace? What brought you to the world of hair additions and hair loss?

DT: My involvement with hair started approximately 28 years ago when I was a Group Product Manager in the Hair Care division of Alberto Culver. So I have actually been involved with hair for almost three decades. I had not worked in the alternative and hair replacement segment until four months ago, but I’ve always been attracted to the beauty proposition that great hair offers people.

DT: We utilize social media aggressively, but I still don’t believe we do enough - nor do most other companies. Social media is a moving target and as it continues to progress and morph, it’s important for companies such as ours to grow with it. Social media lets us talk directly to our consumers and hear back from them in an unfiltered environment.

NHJ: Let’s return to your Men’s Division. Virtual Reality ran a campaign with the theme. “Hair the Ultimate Accessory.” Do you believe that the men’s hair marketplace has evolved and that hair can be positioned as an accessory rather than a cover-up?

DT: It’s important that men learn to view alternative hair as an extension of themselves - an integral part of their persona. It should represent who they are and how they want to project themselves. We have to get away from the cover-up stigma.

NHJ: Recently, Howie Mandel, who is famous for being bald, appeared on Jimmy Kimmel Live, with a thick head of dark hair. Jimmy Kimmel didn’t comment on it; everyone was comfortable. It was simply a styling decision. Six million viewers saw Howie Mandel wear an accessory for the evening.

How do you feel about that?

DT: I hope we see more of that. The more public figures that are willing to show that it’s not only accepted but even fashionable, the better life will be for everyone.

NHJ: With your privileged contacts in the entertainment media, could American Hairlines play a pioneering role and bring more Howie Mandels to the screen?

DT: All I can answer is I would love to make that happen, and would love to have American Hairlines be the catalyst.

NHJ: The industry sometimes asks questions about HairUWear’s commitment to the men’s market.

What would you like to tell them?

DT: We’re committed to satisfying everyone’s

Photo: Marketing Solutions

“We’re Looking To Revolutionize How The New Generation Perceives Hair”

conditioners that promise thicker looking hair. But these products can only do so much. In time, these consumers will need a more effective solution and they will need alternative hair that companies like HairUWear offer.

Another factor also comes into play.

Twelve years ago, before the market crashed, everybody was planning to retire at 55. Today that reality has David Trocker, CMO at HairUWear changed. The paraAfter working on the retail side early in my career, I digm has shifted. Today one expects to be working moved to the professional side where I worked at to 68, 70 and 72 years old. And the longer one stays Matrix and Joico. After my stint at Joico as Vice in the workforce, the more one needs to communiPresident for Marketing, I went to OPI Products, cate a youthful, vibrant persona. It’s a competitive which is a professional nail company. This experimarketplace and these conditions make me confience taught me that the beauty industry isn’t just dent about the growth and continuing importance of about “creams and liquids”. The concept of profeshair replacement and alternative hair. sional beauty stretches way beyond the traditional liquids marketing companies. So when I was NHJ: You’ve just talked about the aging population, approached by HairUWear and given the opportunibut you also work with glamorous celebrities, prety to become involved in another facet of professumably to appeal to a different clientele. sional beauty industry, I thought I could help change DT: I am working hard at HairUWear to strengththe way people think about this category. After all, en the position of each of our brands so they are I’d already seen it done with nails and nail care. focused on a specific need and or aspiration in the marketplace. Younger consumers see hair as a NHJ: We have seen a restructuring of the hair styling or wardrobe accessory. They want to be part replacement industry. The sales people who foundof today’s trends. We do this by offering the Put On ed the market were replaced by financial controllers, Pieces brand that satisfies this need. Put On Pieces and now executives with consumer marketing focus on clip-in hair accents, something you can clip expertise. on in the morning, then change during the day, DT: The change in corporate structure is providing depending on what you’re doing or where you are some exciting opportunities. Where the professiongoing. However, as an ethical company, we will not al beauty industry was seen as a niche market 30 partake in morally questionable trends, such as roosyears ago, today it is mainstream and culturally sigter feather extension but will seek to offer cruelty nificant. That’s why I see a great trajectory not only free alternatives. for HairUWear but also for the entire hair replaceWe are also redefining our top selling, celebrity ment and alternative hair market. endorsed Hairdo brand and our alternative hairpieces, which allow consumers to wear styles that NHJ: What is the biggest challenge? might not be possible with their own hair. Recently, DT: Entrepreneurs who started behind the chair no while I was attending a trade show, I saw a woman longer run many of the professional beauty compawith a 14” ponytail. It was her own, natural hair, but nies. Many compaunfortunately, there were split ends and her hair was nies forgot how to severely damaged. So even if you have natural hair, speak to today’s proit may not look the way you want it to. With Hairdo, fessional, how to we’re giving women the ability to wear any hairmake them feel valustyle, even though they may lack the grooming skills able and part of the or genetics to achieve it on their own. effort. marketing That is something NHJ: How does the Celebrity Signatures that used to be unique Collection fit within this strategy? to our industry and DT: Celebrity Signatures is, in fact, our Hairdo something that and POP collections. It includes the Dancing HairUWear wants to with the Stars Hair Extension collection, where bring back and foster. most of the dancers in the show actually wear the Dancing with the Stars hair pieces. Nothing NHJ: We talked eardrives trends and styles more than Hollywood. lier about unpreceWe work with the most talented Hollywood hair dented consolidation stylists who create the glamorous red carpet and rationalization in looks, and we bring that glamour straight to the the alternative hair consumers. It brings a little glitz and glamour market. Is this someinto their lives without making them go through thing we will see at the commitment that these looks usually take to HairUWear also? attain.

DT: I don’t think so.

The industry consoliNHJ: A lot of brands would like to associate with dation actually creHollywood, but you seem to have mastered the ates opportunities for art. What is the secret? companies like DT: There is a genuine partnership between the HairUWear.

It stars and HairUWear. Other companies try to makes it easier for us make the claim, but nothing more. In some ways to take our message it is similar to the retail hair industry. For years, and belief system retail hair companiesy called themselves, “Salon” into new parts of the or “Professional” but they weren’t. And today professional industry. anybody can claim they are “Hollywood” but We want to demonthey’re not and it shows. People now realize that strate that whether it unless you’re actually in the green room, backis a hair-replacement stage or in the dressing room while the celebrities studio, a wig shop or prepare for appearances and the wide screen, you a salon that there’s a don’t have a real connection. But in our case, the company that understars are in fact wearing our pieces and this is stands their needs what makes it real. There is a true partnership that hears them and fashioned as opposed to a contrived marketing will provide them positioning. with the resources that they need.

NHJ: I’m sure strong public relationships are a key part of this program.

NHJ: Your backDT: I cannot overstate the importance of public ground is in cosumer relations, not only for a company like marketing. Looking at the consumer marketplace, HairUWear, but also for our entire industry. tastes and styles are changing very rapidly. What Much of what the public sees is created at the new trends and marketing opportunities do you see? grassroots level. It takes months, if not years, of DT: I see two major trends - the continued graying preparation. Our PR companies work closely with of the population and the aging of the workforce. the stars and their stylists to make sure that what Thirty years ago there was a shift in the professionwe’re doing is genuine and organic and not conal market away from perms and towards hair colortrived or forced. This is an important part of what ing. The reason was the “aging”, or should I say, makes it work. “graying,” of the population. Looking forward, it only makes sense that the graying consumers will NHJ: You also make aggressive use of social experience hair thinning and hair loss. We’ve seen media. How important is this to your marketing this trend create a huge category in shampoos and planning?

Booth at CosmoProf 2011

needs – men’s and women’s. We all have similar thoughts and insecurities and it’s important for companies like ours to address the concerns of all people. So to give you a direct answer, absolutely - not only are we committed to the men’s market, we see a great future in the men’s market too.

NHJ: In your earlier marketing role, the products you were responsible for came from the laboratory or factory. But today’s market is different; it’s organic and unpredictable. Human hair is in short supply and the quality is less and less controllable. Is this a challenge for you?

DT: It’s a tough market but we are very fortunate to have stable sources for human hair.

NHJ: What distinguishes HairUWear from your competition?

DT: We’re deeply committed to the promotion of hair across all categories; whether it’s a 12-year-old girl who wants a clip-in color piece, or a 70-yearold grandmother who is concerned about thinning hair. Another thing: unlike some other companies; we have our own designers who are the best in the world and we’re looking to revolutionize how the new generation perceives hair. For example, our Put On Pieces are an easier styling/change alternative than nail lacquer, which can take up to15 minutes or more to change one’s nail color. However, with our Put On Pieces extensions, girls can totally change their look and be out the door in 15 seconds! Hair is the first thing their friends will see, so what could be better?

NHJ: David, you have been with the company 4 months. When you look back in (2 months time?), what achievement would make you most proud?

DT: I would love to be able to look back and say that each and every HairUWear brand has a distinct positioning and is well known respected and recognized not only by consumers but by all proNHJ fessionals.

7 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011 if for no other reason is that there is none.

FIVE REASONS THE MEN’S HAIR REPLACEMENT BUSINESS WILL REVIVE IN THE COMING YEARS Steven DiManni

By Steven Di Manni Most of you who are reading this article have made a substantial living in the hair replacement business. Or should I say, parenthetically, the (men’s) hair replacement business.

To this day, most of you are still making the majority of your living from replacing men’s hair.

Not women’s hair. Not men’s or women’s transplants.

Not laser therapy or head rubbing, or the combination of the two, for either gender. Though most studios are engaging in targeting most, if not all, of these lesser, thought still important, markets.

These are the facts. And though I make my living as a creative director/copywriter, and not as a finance guy, I still use numbers, facts, empirical evidence, and, shall we say, reality, in shaping what I do, and how I direct my clients’ efforts.

As you are also well aware, I am a long-time consultant to the On Rite Company, and I am very proud of that relationship. However, for the sake of this article, I would like with your kind permission, to consider all of you my clients and to offer each and every one of you the advice that I will pen here.

My previous article Back in the summer issue of the NHJ, I asked you a variety of questions surrounding the men’s hair replacement business. Let me go over a few of them, as I rephrase them in more provocative terms.

First, how is it that leading men like John Travolta and Nicholas Cage who have been proven to have had nonsurgical hair replacement (the photos of them with and without their grafts have appeared in many publications), yet no one calls them “the toupee wearing” so and so.

At the same time, Donald Trump, who has a comb over, is always accused of wearing hair when he

definitely does not.

Similarly, Elton John, who has clearly worn hair for the past two to three decades, has never had this reality attached to him. When mentioned about his full of head of hair today versus being nearly totally bald in the late 70’s, it is said he had a hair transplant, but never in derogatory terms.

Meanwhile, Vice President, Joe Biden, who had a hair transplant many years ago, has his transplant constantly mentioned and derided in the trade press.

Finally, there’s William Shatner, yes, “Captain Kirk”, who has been “wearing hair” since the 1960s, and in my mind, looks like a million bucks, yet is always pointed out at “the toupee clad” Shatner.

What’s the reason for these disparities?

What do they mean for the men’s hair replacement business today?

Look at the commonalities First, you can’t attribute it all to age. Elton John is about the same age as Donald Trump, and both are only a few years younger than the Vice-President.

Now, Shatner, yes, at 80, is older than all of them. But other older actors, “back in the day”, who wore hair— John Wayne, Charlton Heston, Sean Connery, et.al. – were rarely called out for having had their hair replaced.

But just like John Wayne, Heston and Connery years ago, people like Travolta, Cage, and Elton John have a “cool factor” about them. Shatner, Vice-President Biden, and Donald Trump clearly do not. In fact, these are all controversial figures that are the butt of jokes of the late night

great Minimizing your risk in The “Catch-22” of advertising the men’s hair I treat my clients’ money as if it were my own. at the beginning of this article when I asked replacement Remember your permission for just a few minutes to allow you, the reader, to be regarded as my client? business

know of any Hollywood actor who has permanently shaved his head in order to “disguise” his baldness.

I keep mentioning these celebrities for a reason. In our society, celebrities drive popular culture. And popular culture is what influences trends, especially those that have to do with style, fashion and beauty.

I assume that all of you have either read (or seen the movie about) Joesph Heller’s great novel, “Catch22”. Its premise is so outstanding that the title of the book/movie has become part of the English vernacular.

The story takes place during the Korean war. A pilot in a fighter squadron believes that he is crazy and is therefore unqualified to fly. However, a section of the service’s manual says that all fighter pilots must be a bit crazy. In other words, even though being crazy is a detriment to acting as a fighter pilot, you have to be crazy to be a fighter pilot in the first place.

Very few men aspire to look like a “dork”, a “geek”, or an “outcast”. And even if the guys don’t care, the women in their lives do, whether the woman are their wives, their girlfriends, or just women they are dating.

It’s just like, “in order to get this job you have to have experience”. Then, the job applicant responds, “how can I get experience if you won’t let me have a job in which I can get experience?”

And by the way, while you’re thinking about the shaved head thing, forget about ex-athletes like Michael Jordan, Lawrence Taylor, Bernie Williams, and Emmit Smith. First, athletes are in a different class of celebrities. For another, though all of these guys are in their forties and fifties, an athlete’s age is considered to be consistent with his playing career. When you’re finished playing, you’re considered old, no matter how young you are.

In the men’s hair replacement business, the assumption is that advertising doesn’t work. Because of this, studios don’t run men’s hair replacement advertising. So where’s the proof that it doesn’t work? Well, there is none since no one will run the advertising that would prove otherwise since “they know” it won’t work.

or “There’s a reason why we call it the (men’s) hair replace- The shaved head phenomenon ment business.”

Aside from Bruce Willis, and I guess Vin Diesel, I don’t talk shows for more than just their hair alone.

Five Reasons Why the Men’s Hair Replacement Business will Revive First, is the current acceptance of hair replacement by the fans of the popular actors and personalities I alluded to at the beginning of this article. If you’re a “cool” individual, no one really cares what improvements you make in your appearance, provided it does not look ridiculous or make the man look like a parody of himself.

Second, visit a college campus. Take a look at the styles the young men are wearing today. Gone are the shaved heads and even the buzz cuts. Most of the “kids” are wearing their hair long, and no, not long as in the “hippie” days, but rather, more like an un-styled “Justin Bieber” cut. Yes, hair is back. Unruly, to be sure, but long and flowing.

Third, our target audience is what is known as Generation X. Back in the heyday, when most of the studios made all their money in the ‘80s and ‘90’s, “Baby Boomers”

were the targets. (For definition, the Baby Boomers were born between 1946 to 1964. Generation X filled out the next twenty years, making them 26-46 today, prime candidates for hair replacement.)

Most of the Generation X group, particularly those under 40, have little memory of the “hair systems” of the 1980s and 1990s. In other words, they have no prejudice or bad taste in their mouths from the atrocities of the advertising, claims, and testimonials that were made in that era, which literally, turned off far more men than the parodies of hair commercials done in the early 2000s by Geico and Bud Light.

Which brings me to my fourth point. Because of the dearth of hair replacement advertising in the past decade, many of the men who are in the greatest need of hair have no knowledge of what we have to offer.

Let’s face it, “out of sight, out of mind” is truly the order of the day. Naturally, if some of these men live in the vicinity of a Hair Club studio, yes, they have seen hair replacement advertising. But then, we know from many sources that Hair Club’s men’s business has been growing for the past few years. (More on this later.)

Finally, my fifth and final point as to why the men’s business is on the verge of taking off again: the bloom is off the rose as far as Rogaine and Propecia is concerned. Minoxidil can now be purchased in drugstores for as little as $25 a bottle under its generic name: Rogaine advertising has relegated itself to its new foam formulation. As for Propecia, all I’ve heard about it on TV is from the legal firms promoting their litigation services to people who have suffered from “continued sexual dysfunction” from the drug.

In other words, people by now have either tried Rogaine/minoxidil and/or Propecia, or they haven’t— and won’t. No one is waiting for the “next great thing”,

ing it prosper, quite frankly.

Playing it safe is not playing it smart, necessarily.

Crazy? You tell me.

Proof that advertising works Hair Club. They keep running men’s advertising. If it didn’t work, why would they do so?

Pent-up demand. Go back to the whole Gen X market that started losing its hair right around the same time that men’s hair replacement advertising “disappeared”.

There’s pent-up demand for this group of men. Just like there was pent-up demand for the Baby Boomers in the mid-80s through mid-90s who had never been exposed to men’s hair replacement advertising.

Finally, men’s hair transplants. Advertising abounds.

Yes, it’s a different process, and in a way, a different market from the non-surgical business. But not that different. It’s still about men of a certain age who don’t want to be bald and are seeking out an alternative that suits them.

Believe me, hair transplantation surgery is not for everyone. It costs a lot of money. Its results are not guaranteed. And because it’s surgery, it hurts and involves recovery time. All quite different from the non-surgical method of hair replacement.

But there’s a more compelling argument to advertise Quite simply, men’s hair replacement offers you the greatest opportunity to profitability.

First, more men lose their hair than women.

Second, unlike multi-therapeutic remedies, such as “head rubbing” and/or laser treatments, the hair replacement client is a “captive client”. He can conceivably be around for years and years, and if he is on a service contract, can generate regular income that you can take to the bank.

Most multi-therapeutic clients are “here today, gone tomorrow”. They have a short shelf-life. Moreover, converting a multi-therapeutic client to a hair replacement client is not easy. In most cases, it’s impossible, if for no other reason that the person who wants to grow his own hair back will accept nothing less; second, if you fail at growing his hair back, which in most cases you will, it will be hard to gain back the credibility and trust that will convince him that you can realistically replace his hair non-surgically.

There’s risk involved in any business If you just wanted a steady paycheck, you’d have gone to work for the postal service or the department of motor vehicles. But you own a business, you’re an entrepreneur, you meet a payroll, you put yourself on the line each and every day as a small business owner.

That’s what you do. And you’re to be commended for it. But when it comes to the biggest part of your business, you’re NOT to be commended for falling into a Catch-22 by not taking a chance on reviving it and see-

OK, here’s what I would do to minimize my risk and ensure my success in returning to advertising men’s nonsurgical hair replacement.

Start by doing your homework. See what else is going on in your marketplace. Do you have a Hair Club in your vicinity? Are they advertising on TV? Are men their primary target? If so, chances are there’s money to be had.

Don’t have a Hair Club? Find out what your competitors are doing. You don’t have to stay up late all night watching every TV station. Call in your cable TV companies’ advertising sales people and ask them. They’ll be happy to tell you.

If your competitors are NOT advertising, this could be a very good thing. It doesn’t mean that advertising doesn’t work. It just means that they’ve fallen into the Catch-22 that permeates the business today.

Don’t want to run TV? Ok, think about large print ads in the newspaper—again it has been said that newspaper advertising doesn’t work; yet I have been in contact with more than a few studios that have started running big newspaper ads again, with significant sales results.

Radio is something I keep talking about. But do not do “home made” radio. See if any of the manufacturers you buy from have anything available. For example, I know that the On Rite Company is coming out with a few new radio commercials specifically targeting the men’s market that have already been tested with great success.

Outdoor advertising is great for “drive markets”. Don’t discount putting up a compelling outdoor board near a competitor either, in hopes of gaining a disgruntled client.

Finally, back to TV, which has proven time and again, to be the major influencer among all media for Generation X, and even the group that succeeds it, Generation Y. Find out what your favorite manufacturer has to offer.

Again, I speak for On Rite when I say that this fall they are producing what might be one of the most successful men’s hair replacement spots of all time. There are also other resources across the country from which you to procure TV commercials.

One final word…

This might be the most important of all. When evaluating creative to attract new men’s customers, whether it’s TV, radio, outdoor, print, etc., don’t select it based on

what you like…. or what worked in the past.

Generation X is very different from the Baby Boomer group. If you’re a Baby Boomer yourself, you certainly can’t use your tastes to evaluate what motivates a different generation. Their “intent to purchase” and “motivation” factors are quite different from those that motivated men thirty or twenty years ago.

I suggest that you pick up a Maxim magazine, or ESPN magazine, and look at the ads within them. I also suggest you spend a few nights watching cable channels such as the “adult swim” series on Nickelodeon, Spike TV, Sundance Channel, and of course, ESPN and other networks that target younger men.

In other words, start thinking like your potential new clients, not a hair replacement studio owner. Yes, this represents change and change is always uncomfortable.

But if you want to change the fortunes of your studio, you have to change as well.

Have a great fall and holiday season. I hope that when I next write to you that your sales will be going up as the thermometer goes down.

Steven Di Manni is a Madison Avenue Creative Director who has won nearly every industry award-while progressing to Senior Vice-President/ Creative Director, of some of New York’s preeminent agencies including LINTAS, FCB and Hakuhodo.

He has been honored for his TV, print and online work for CocaCola, The Economist, Canon, Hitachi, Lipton, Cover Girl, Barbara K! and others with Clios, Andys, Addys, Echoes, ad:techs, Obies and more. Steven is also Executive/VicePresident/Creative of the John Caples International Awards. A 28-year veteran of the hair replacement industry, Steven is a long-time consultant to the On Rite Company. He currently operates his own creative consultancy group, and is a resident of New York City and Westhampton Beach.

8 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

The Unbearable Lightness of Shampooing Tom Magliaro explains why he created a premium wet-goods collection.

Tom Magliaro has never settled for second best.

He believes hair is important to self esteem and that it is his duty to make it look as good as his 40 years of experience as a hairloss professional will allow. He has always been ready to invest his own time and money to improve hairloss solutions for everybody, and this is what he is here to talk about in this interview. Tom Magliaro and his team spent over a year developing a new wet goods line, Welker rePHreshed that was launched in the Fall of 2011.

products? Do you start with client requests then go to a lab with a checklist?

TM: The project began because our team saw a need for a specialist product for hair additions. We have a very experienced team; even our image consultants have been with us for seven to twenty years. Every day these experienced professionals were seeing lackluster hair, split ends and color fading problems. So we decided to pool our talent and experience to see if we could improve some of these deficiencies.

Tom Magliaro NHJ: Why is a successful hair loss professional launching a wet-goods line?

TM: Initially we launched the line just for our own clients. Our goal was to extend the life of their hair grafts and protect the color and manageability. Having experimented with so many different products, we felt we could probably do better than a non-specialized manufacturer.

NHJ: What makes the Welker rePHreshed collection different from other wet-goods lines?

TM: Welker rePHreshed is geared for growth and non-growth hair. Most of the other hair care lines we’ve dealt with in the past have been primarily geared toward one or the other; usually growing hair. We, on the other hand, have designed our collection to satisfy the extra special needs of hair additions, which, of course, makes them very pampering for growing hair.

So our collection is made up of sulfate-free and alcohol-free products. We only allow things in our formulation that promote a healthy environment for the client’s own hair, hair grafts, and/or extensions.

NHJ: Welker rePHreshed has a distinctive logo and name. What does it mean?

TM: This is a project my daughter, Victoria, pushed and pushed. She worked closely with the lab for over a year to achieve these results and we wanted to recognize her efforts. Her married name is Welker, so we called the collection “Welker rePHreshed.”

NHJ: What was the first product she worked on?

TM: It was a sulfate-free shampoo. Then came the conditioner and a leave-in conditioner. We tested all our products on clients without telling them about it in advance so we could gauge their reactions. We see about 55 clients a day, so this was a substantial database.

NHJ: What was their response?

TM: They immediately noticed that the shampoo and conditioners were leaving their hair feeling “lighter.” In the past, a lot of clients... particularly the guys... did not want to use conditioners on their hair because they had a tendency to weigh it down. Now they don’t have to worry. They can keep the sheen and moisture in their hair without it becoming heavy.

The other thing our clients liked was the way the products work in combination. They can use a shampoo, a conditioner, a mousse, and a spray and their hair is not violated by the buildup of chemicals.

NHJ: How did you go about formulating these

NHJ: If I was one of your clients coming in today for a service visit, would I notice a difference?

TM: You would be shocked by the difference.

As I told you earlier, when we blind tested our products with certain clients, they reacted like, “What did you put on my hair,” or, “Gosh, my hair looks incredibly different.” I’m not going to overstate it and say it made the hair look as it did when we first put in the graft, but it definitely sealed the split ends, corrected some of the dullness of the hair and made it look revitalized.

NHJ: You could have kept these results to yourself, but instead you decided to make the products available to other hairloss professionals in the industry.

TM: Yes. What happened is clients who loved the products we used in the salon began to buy them to use at home. Then their spouses and children started putting orders in through the client when they came back. That’s when we knew we had a winner.

NHJ: A lot of people know you and respect your judgment. What is your message to them?

TM: Well, I guess my message would be something that you once told me years ago that we are really in the hair-management business, and that requires a total approach. It’s a total regimen, not a single product or a single graft. It takes a combination of products and skills to improve the health of a client’s hair and their appearance.

NHJ: That philosophy has led you to go beyond shampoos and conditioners into a number of other support products.

TM: That’s right. Once we realized that the first product was exceptional, we knew we needed to do a complete regime. I didn’t want people to just buy a shampoo and a conditioner. I felt, if we’re going to go up to this level, everything had to be commensurate; everything had to meet to the same standards. And that forced us to think a little further out of our box.

My team really takes the credit for this; they’re the ones who pushed me to come up with a mousse and styling products.

NHJ: Do you see the Welker’s Rephreshed line as a professional product only, or will you make it available to the public?

TM: It is something that should be available to both markets. We’re making efforts to do that right now. We’ve established tentative connections with some major distributors, and we’ve

developed a webpage and brochures. We’re officially announcing the launch of Welker RePHreshed right here in The National Hair Journal.

NHJ: A lot of companies would like to bring their sons and daughters into the business, but have trouble attracting them into the hairloss industry. But your daughter, Victoria is working alongside you and spearheading an exciting new project. How did you bring this about?

TM: Yes. [Laughs] I have to give her the credit. When she graduated the University of Texas six years ago, she mentioned to me that she would like to work for us full time. My wife, Randi and I said, “We sent you to college to get an education. You need to go out in the world, get beat up a little bit, come back in a year and then we can discuss whether or not there’s a fit in our business.” She replied, “I would rather get good habits from you. You’ve established good habits. I’ll be the person to tell you in a year, after working with you, whether there’s a fit in your business for me.” And when I heard that, I said, “Sold!”

NHJ: What does that young vision and energy bring to the business?

TM: It takes me out of my box. It’s amazing the energy and passion I get from my team.

The have a commitment to our clients, not to dollars. I have not had a single person, ever; over the close to 40-years ask me for a raise.

They are so concerned about delivering the best possible experience to our clients, and they realize when they do great work, the money will find them.

NHJ: What you’re describing is what every manager wants, but rarely gets. What’s the secret?

TM: My whole aim is to make sure the staff has all the tools that they need and a great working environment in which to greet their clients. I want them to enjoy coming to work every day. And I want to make sure that they and their families are making an adequate living so that they can enjoy some of the benefits their hard work brings to them. By me focusing on them, and them focusing on my clients, it’s just – it sounds like a fairy tale, and I don’t mean to say that it is - but they transform people’s lives. I just love helping people and touching people’s lives.

NHJ: We have talked about your clients’ needs, but of course, you are a client yourself.

How did you get into this industry?

TM: I was a great candidate for hair restoration. I lost my hair when I was 19, and by the time I graduated college at 21, I could barely comb over just to give the illusion of some hair. I was a schoolteacher at the time and I loved working with children, but the hair thing was always on my mind. My wife’s uncle and her dad had a wig and hairpiece story in Florida. Using hair systems, and having tried some of the best in New York, where all the actors went, and having spent nearly half my annual earnings as a teacher on growth hair, I still wasn’t satisfied. I found myself listening to what was going on in their salons in Miami, Florida and I realized that this was a calling.

This was perfect for me. I knew that there were ways of improving the product. I knew that there were ways of looking good and feeling good. This was the early ‘70s, and I’m telling you it has been such a passionate and rewarding journey. I love what we do and how we can affect people. I love the feedback, particularly today. It seems people are more emancipated in their feelings and they’re talking more freely and we get thanked. We shouldn’t be getting thanked, in fact we should be thanking them, but we get thanked for changing their lives, or at least being there to help transform part of their life.

NHJ: What is the biggest challenge facing our industry today?

TM: I think our biggest challenge has become a little less of a challenge, but it’s still there. It

is the fact that good work goes unnoticed! The industry has improved its ability to put out wonderful products that look natural and healthy. However, I don’t think the public knows just how great our technology really is.

Our best work goes unnoticed.

NHJ: Now you have created a new wet goods line, do you have any other projects in the works?

TM: I would love to start a mentoring program. As a former educator and teacher, this would give me great satisfaction. I’d also like to continue my efforts helping kids with medical needs. There’s no way they should ever pay for hair.

NHJ: Are there any further additions or enhancements to Welker rePHreshed in the pipeline?

TM: We’re learning as we go.

At this time, we’re more than satisfied with the product. It has a friendly appearance. It looks great in the shower and on the shelf. Our sprays have adjustable nozzles so you can get a fine mist or more of a thick mist. We’ve built in every feature our technicians and clients tell is important. But I do know this: there’s always room for improvement. There’s always going to be something new.

NHJ: Where can Journal readers go for more information?

TM: They can call us at 855-668-2712 or go to www.welkerrephreshed.com. We will be happy

Victoria Welker to answer any questions they may have. I want people to experience the product for themselves before they make a commitment, so I have made up some free samples. They just need to call and let us know their business name and mailing address.

NHJ: Is there anything you wanted to talk about that we haven’t covered?

TM: I left out the fact that a lot of our product has sun filters. That’s important for men and women with growth and non-growth hair. So along with the fact that I mentioned, that there’s alcohol-free and sulfate-free, having, I believe, sun filters is going to help a great deal with color retention and the health of everyone’s hair.

NHJ: Thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule to talk with us.

Tom Magliaro’s Hair Additions has served Houston, Texas for over 25 years. The salon services an average of 55 clients a day, many of them Houston notables. Having begun his professional life as a teacher, Magliaro continues to share his teaching skills and business experience by conducting seminars on hair-replacement techniques and trends for cosmetology students at local universities. He also serves as a consultant to plastic surgeons to augment their expertise in hair replacement procedures. When custom-designed hair replacements are not an option for the less fortunate, Magliaro has been known to donate his time and product. He designs custom-made hair replacements for children and adult patients at Texas Children’s Hospital, M.D. Anderson Cancer Center, Methodist Hospital and St. Luke’s Episcopal Hospital, and many other hospital centers. His talents and generosity have led to his becoming one of ABC’s “Marvin Zindler’s Angels.”

9 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

10 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

LOW LEVEL LASER LIGHT THERAPY How it works... and is all light created equal?

The jury returned its verdict a long time ago. Light therapy is safe, effective and, when used correctly, can promote hair growth in men and women. Like all good juries, the decision was not based on personal opinion but on the evidence. In this case, rigorous clinical trials. However, not all lasers are equally effective and the way in which the light energy reaches the skin, the actual amount of energy involved, and the duration of application all play a part. And what about the light itself? Is all light created equal? Or are some wavelengths and dosages better than others?

To help answer these questions we are publishing an article written by one of the top phototherapy experts in the world today, Dr. Michael Hamblin. In it, Dr. Hamblin describes how laser biostimulation works and discusses the effectiveness of different wavelengths. The language of Dr. Hamblin’s commentary is admittedly technical, but the conclusion is clear. Phototherapy is an effective tool that can deliver significant benefits to your clients. If you are considering introducing low level laser light therapy in your business, this is must reading!

Wavelength Equivalence Of Red Light Between 595-Nm and 695-Nm For LaserInduced Hair Regrowth

By Michael R Hamblin, PhD, Abstract Low-level laser or light therapy is used for hair regrowth in cases of male pattern baldness or androgenetic alopecia. Red light delivered by a laser or LED is absorbed in the mitochondria of cells in the hair follicle and activates transcription factors leading to stimulation of the anagen phase of the hair cycle.

This review examines the work that has been published on comparing the relative effectiveness of different wavelengths of red light (between 595 and 695-nm) on biological endpoints relevant to stimulation of hair regrowth.

1. Introduction Male androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most frequent type of thinning or loss of hair in males. The condition, also known as male pattern baldness, causes hair loss as early as late adolescence. The therapies that have been developed for AGA include Minoxidil, Propecia and laser therapy.

2. Low -Level Laser (Light) Therapy (LLLT) In 1967 a few years after the first working laser was invented, Endre Mester in Semmelweis University, Budapest, Hungary decided to test if laser radiation might cause cancer in mice [1]. He shaved the hair off their backs, divided them into two groups and gave a laser treatment with a low powered ruby laser

(694-nm) to one group. They did not get cancer and to his surprise the hair on the treated group grew back more quickly than the untreated group. This was the first demonstration of “laser biostimulation”.

Since then, the use of red light whether delivered by a laser or by a non-coherent light source such as light-emitting diodes has become widely used in medicine and physical therapy. There are many approved and generally accepted applications for indications such as wound healing, relief of pain and inflammation, and stimulation of tissue repair.

3. LLLT for Hair Regrowth A Spanish group has reported [2, 3] on the use of HeNe laser for both androgenic alopecia and alopecia areata. A report from Finland [4] compared three different light sources used for male-pattern baldness (HeNe laser, InGaAl diode laser at 670-nm and non-coherent 635-nm LED and measured blood flow in the scalp.

4. Molecular Basis for LLLT The first law of photobiology states that for low power visible light to have any effect on a living biological system, the photons must be absorbed by electronic absorption bands belonging to some molecular chromophore or photoacceptor [5]. One approach to finding the identity of this chromophore is to carry out action spectra. This is a graph representing biological photoresponse as a function of wavelength, wave number, frequency, or photon energy and should resemble the absorption spectrum of the photoacceptor molecule. The existence of a structured action spectrum is strong evidence that the phenomenon under study is a photobiological one (i.e., cellular photoacceptors and signaling pathways exist).

The second important consideration involves the optical properties of tissue. Both the absorption and scattering of light in tissue are wavelength dependent (both much higher in the blue region of the spectrum than the red) and the principle tissue chromophores (hemoglobin and melanin) have high absorption bands at wavelengths shorter than 600-nm. Water begins to absorb significantly at wavelengths greater than 1150-nm. For these reasons there is a so-called “optical window” in tissue covering the red and near-infrared wavelengths, where the effective tissue penetration of light is maximized (Figure 1).

Therefore although blue, green and yellow light may have significant effects on cells growing in optically transparent culture medium, the use of LLLT in animals and patients almost exclusively involves red and near-infrared light (595-950-nm).

It was suggested in 1989 that the mechanism of LLLT at the cellular level was based on the absorption of monochromatic visible and NIR radiation by components of the cellular respiratory chain [6].

Respiration occurs in subcellular organelles called mitochondria. The inner mitochondrial membrane contains 5 complexes of integral membrane proteins: NADH dehydrogenase (Complex I), succinate dehydrogenase (Complex II), cytochrome c reductase (Complex III), cytochrome c oxidase (Complex IV), ATP synthase (Complex V) and two freely-diffusible molecules ubiquinone and cytochrome c that shuttle electrons from one complex to the next. In 1995, an analysis of five action spectra suggested that the primary photoacceptor for the red-NIR range in mammalian cells is cytochrome c oxidase [7]. It is remarkable that the action spectra that were analyzed had very close (within the confidence limits) peak positions in spite of the fact that these are seemingly different processes. The enzyme contains two iron centers, haem a and haem a3 (also referred to as cytochromes a and a3), and two copper centers, CuA and CuB [8]. Fully oxidized cytochrome c oxidase has both iron atoms in the Fe(III) oxidation state and both copper atoms in the Cu(II) oxidation state, while fully reduced cytochrome c oxidase has the iron in Fe(II) and copper in Cu(I) oxidation states. All the many individual oxidation states of the enzyme have different absorption spectra [9], thus probably accounting for slight differences in action spectra of LLLT that have been reported.

5. Wavelength Equivalence Between 595-695-Nm. There have been a few studies that have compared the relative effectiveness of different wavelengths in the red region of the visible spectrum on some photobiomodulation (continued on pg. 22)

11 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

12 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

The National Hair Journal PROMOTING

Medical Section

COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION

Everything You Always Wanted to Know About ROGAINE®

and published in peer review journals. In addition to her role at J&JCCI, Rita is Chair on the Board of Directors for the Cicatricial Alopecia Research Foundation.

Advice from people who really know

NHJ:When is the best time to start using ROGAINE® solution and foam?

Start using RW&CQ: Don’t wait.

ROGAINE® solution and foam when you notice gradually thinning hair or gradual hair loss on the top of the scalp.

In our last article about hair regrowth drugs, Dr. Robert Leonard discussed Rogaine therapy from the perspective of a clinic or salon owner. He made the point that every man and woman entering a hair restoration clinic or a hair replacement salon is a candidate for one of the FDA approved hair regrowth drugs, whether on not they choose to go forward with another procedure. In this follow up feature, we dig a little deeper into the clinical research and medical information behind Rogaine. As is our custom, we went to the top to bring you the most accurate information.

Rita Wanser is a Director in the Global Scientific and Professional Affairs group at Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products World Wide Division of Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. (“J&JCCI”), where she supports brand names such as ROGAINE®. She has over ten years of experience working with the brand and has presented at numerous scientific meetings

Carlos Quiza, M.D. is the Associate Director of the Personal Care/Technology Platforms group at J&JCCI. His current responsibilities include the independent planning, implementation and supervision of clinical trials and medical affairs activities in the Hair Regrowth and Topical Health franchises, supporting the ROGAINE® brand.

NHJ: Do ROGAINE® solution and foam merely halt further hair loss or restore hair that has stopped growing?

RW&CQ: ROGAINE® solution and foam help reverse the progression of hereditary hair loss by reversing the miniaturization of the hair follicle. In clinical trial, Men’s ROGAINE® Foam re-grew hair in 85% of men after four months when used twice daily.

For people contemplating NHJ: ROGAINE® therapy, could you give us a checklist of do’s and don’ts?

RW&CQ: Do: Create a routine. Apply to the scalp, twice a day, every day.

Do: Apply properly and massage directly into scalp. ROGAINE® solution and foam work on the follicle, not the hair.

Do: Be patient - It took time to lose your hair.

It takes time to grow back.

ROGAINE® solution and foam need time to reactivate your normal hair cycle.

Don’t: Worry if you see more hair shedding after a short time of using ROGAINE® solution and foam. That means you are pushing out the old hair, preparing for Soon the new hair. after, the new hair starts to grow in the follicle.

While you may not see it, by 8 weeks, the new hair works its way to the scalp.

Don’t: Give up. By Week 16, 85% of men re-grew hair after four months of twice-daily use of Men’s ROGAINE® Foam (5% minoxidil).

NHJ: Are all minoxidil products created equal?

What makes some better than others?

RW&CQ: Not all minoxidil products are created equally - for example, many men find the easy-to-use Men’s ROGAINE® Foam has greatly improved the application process. Although the active ingredient is the same as Men’s ROGAINE® Solution (5% minoxidil) men can now enjoy the benefit of an overall improved application method that fits easily into their morning and evening grooming routines.

Additionally, we would only recommend using an FDA-approved minoxidil product.

ROGAINE® is the first FDA- approved topical treatment to re-grow hair, and with

more than 20 years in market, it has established itself as a well-known and respected hair re-growth brand by consumers and professionals.

NHJ: What are the benefits of the foam formulation?

RW&CQ: Not only is Men’s ROGAINE® Foam the f irst foam FDA-approved to regrow hair, it’s easy-to-use, takes just seconds to apply, is less messy, non greasy and dries quickly. It is also now fragrance free, as data from our valuable consumer insight showed that 57 percent of current ROGAINE® users preferred an unscented product. Consumer studies also showed that 79% of men were more likely to use the foam form compared to 31% noting they would use solution. However, both forms remain available for individual preference.

NHJ: A lot of people think they have to choose between ROGAINE® and Propecia. Is this true?

RW&CQ: ROGAINE® and Propecia work by different mechanisms, so consumers do not necessarily need to choose between them.

Factors such as form, cost and ease of use all have an effect on which hair loss method works best for a consumer — and what works well for one person may not be the best option for another. As with any prescription medication, we do recommend consulting a physician before combining a prescription medicine such as Propecia with other hair-loss treatments.

NHJ: ROGAINE® and Propecia work differently. Is one modality better than another?

RW&CQ: They do work differently, so what works best can vary from person to person.

ROGAINE® solution and foam are FDAapproved topical treatments that help regrow hair in men and women with hereditary hair loss.

13 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

does not feel the need to see a physician, as it is available over-the-counter without a prescription. Some consumers may simply have a preference for a product with a topical application versus a pill form - it’s a personal decision.

NHJ: ROGAINE® products may be used by men and women. Propecia is for men only.

Why is this?

RW&CQ: Women’s ROGAINE® Topical solution is FDA-approved for women with hereditary hair loss. Finasteride, the active ingredient in Propecia, is FDA-approved for use in men only.

The active ingredient minoxidil promotes and prolongs the hair growth phase of the hair cycle, slowing the progression of hair loss.It acts directly to enlarge miniaturized follicles to produce longer and thicker hairs. With more follicles in the growth phase, it is possible to see improved coverage of the scalp.

Propecia is an FDA-approved oral medication proven to treat male pattern hair loss on the vertexand anterior mid-scalp area in men.

The active ingredient finasteride is a competitive inhibitor of type II 5-alpha-reductase, an enzyme that converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). It works on hormones in the follicle that are associated with hair loss.

NHJ: Is one drug better than the other for someone who is just beginning to lose their hair?

RW&CQ: At any stage of hair loss, it’s important to take into account which treatment the consumer is actually going to use after all, the more properly and regularly a hair loss treatment is used, the more effective it can be. ROGAINE® may be a good option for a consumer who wants to take action but

NHJ: Why are there different formulations of ROGAINE® for men and women?

RW&CQ: ROGAINE® was developed as a solution form in the early 1980’s. Through new innovation, the 5% minoxidil foam formulation was developed and launched in 2006 for use in men, and is currently only Women’s FDA-approved for men.

ROGAINE® Topical Solution (2% Minoxidil) is the only ROGAINE® product FDA-approved for use by women.

NHJ: Can a woman choose to use the stronger formulation if she wishes?

RW&CQ: Currently, 2% Minoxidil topical solution is the only FDA-approved drug for women’s pattern hair loss. For any medication concerns, women should seek the advice of their health care professional.

NHJ: Would she see any added benefits from this stronger formulation?

RW&CQ: There is not a stronger formulation available for women in the US. NHJ: Why do you need a prescription for Propecia but not for ROGAINE®? Does this mean it’s safer?

RW&CQ: The FDA makes all decisions regarding whether a product requires a prescription or is available over-the-counter.

NHJ: Should I change my hair washing and conditioning routine when I use ROGAINE® solution and foam?

RW&CQ: You may follow your normal hair care routine when using ROGAINE® solution and foam. We do recommend a mild shampoo that cleanses your scalp well and a conditioner that is light and won’t weigh down hair. However, it’s important to note that shampoos, conditioners and vitamins cannot re-grow hair - minoxidil, the active in ROGAINE® is the only FDA-approved topical ingredient that is clinically proven to help regrow hair.

NHJ: Are there any side effects from ROGAINE® solution and foam?

RW&CQ: Some consumers may experience itching and skin irritation of the treated area of the scalp.

NHJ: What happens on vacation if I swim in the ocean or dive frequently into a chlorinated pool? Will ROGAINE® products still work?

RW&CQ: It is recommended that you wait 4 hours after application before you go swimming. To avoid washing off ROGAINE(r) products, you can apply ROGAINE(r) products to a towel-dried scalp after swimming.

NHJ: It is hard for me to judge the progress of my hair loss. Would it be beneficial to have a hair loss professional monitor the results of ROGAINE® therapy?

RW&CQ: There are a few signs that let you know ROGAINE® solution and foam is at work on your hair follicles. For example, during the first few weeks of use, there may be a temporary increase in hair shedding.

While this may seem confusing, it is actually a good sign. It means that the new growth cycle is beginning, and the smaller, velluslike hairs are shedding, making way for the new healthy ones. This is encouraging and means that ROGAINE® is actually stimulating regrowth-and reversing the progression of hair loss.

NHJ: Finally, are there any important new developments or breakthroughs we can anticipate from the ROGAINE® brand?

RW&CQ: Stay tuned! The ROGAINE® scientists continue to look into new innoNHJ vations.

Follow the Money!

Anti-aging is where the dollars are. Baby boomers who refuse to grow old are spending record sums to maintain their youthful looks and vitality.

Great hair needs great skin and The National hair Society has developed a special program that will place a skin rejuvenation device in qualifying salons and clinics free of charge.

Your clients will be delighted - results are visible after one session - and the benefits accumulate with repeated treatments.

Here’s what you get: - Free state-of-the-art microcurrent skin rejuvenation device.

- Free advertising material.

Here’s what you need to qualify: - Private room or area for skin therapy.

- Strong female clientele.

- Licensed technician or cosmetologist.

- Technical training and accreditation.

Here’s how you’ll benefit: - No out of pocket.

- Substantial new income.

- Attract new clients for hair and skin.

- Reward and retain current clients.

For more information email: info@nationalhairjournal.com, visit www.nationalhairsociety.org or call

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For Sale: Laser Therapy Device Revage 670 with rotational distribution of laser energy in excellent condition for $10,500 or best offer. Call Ralph Foss at (608) 754-2197 or email: sfoss214@gmail.com for more details.

14 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

Feathers, Not Just For The Birds Anymore…

slide the feather in the link and close.

6. Add another feather to the shaft a little lower on the extension for a longer more dramatic effect.

7. Apply the your feather hair extension as desired and enjoy.

(Special thanks to Ashley Mankin for her assistance with the making of the feathers)

3

By Bobbi Russell While attending the major hair shows this year, I discovered the biggest trend was Feathers Hair Extensions. With celebrities like Steven Tyler, Selena Gomez and Miley Cyrus showing off their new hair extension feathers, it’s not a surprise that it has become so popular. Rooster tail feathers, also called “Hackels”, have been used for fly-fishing for years. Lately however, fishing shops have had a difficult time filling their orders. Hair Salons and Hairdressers have caused a surge in sales and the demand of the tail feathers has caused the price of the feathers to soar! Some manufactures have begun to create synthetic feathers - a more affordable less durable option.

4

Feather hair extensions take only minutes to apply. They are completely safe and free from chemicals. The feathers can be attached with a micro-link bead, a comb clip or as a bonded extension. They are available in single feathers or clusters of many feathers. And because they are available in such a wide variety of colors, there is no limit to the imagination... or the desired result. The feathers can be shampooed, blow dried, curled and flat ironed, just like your natural hair. They can add a little pop of color or a lot of pizzazz to any style or texture. When cared for well, they can last for months.

5

The first day I put my feathers in, I went to the mall. I was asked so many times where I got my feathers I ran out of business cards in less than an hour. I had about 20 with me. I can’t remember the last time I was able to give out 20 cards to complete strangers in one hour. We charge $35-$75 for our feather hair extensions at our studio in Tampa. Prices range depending on how complex the design is and how many feathers you use. I found that the natural extensions were the most popular for all ages.

Below I have demonstrated how we make custom feather extensions in our studio. Keep in mind that you can be as simple or as extreme as you dream to be. Fads are usually short lived.

This is a fun one. So enjoy it while it lasts... and earn a little extra income.

1. Supplies you will need include, pre-bonded hair extension strands, micro-links, feathers (individual or clusters), Linking tool, scissors, comb clips, tinsel, fusion hot tool.

2. Add a couple pieces of the hair tinsel to the extension hair and fuse together. For added color, you can use slithers of different color hair then fuse together.

3 If you want to add the extension to a clip, I found the easiest way is to just attach to link directly to the clip, slide in your feather and close the link.

4. Braid the hair with the tinsel.

5. Add a link on the shaft of the extension and 1

2

6

15 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

16 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

Robot-Assisted FUE May Be The Future of Hair Transplantation James Harris, M.D., F.A.C.S., principal investigator for Restoration Robotics, explains why For years, robots have been the stuff of comic books, fantasy toys and science fiction movies. But today, they are very much a part of modern medicine. In spring 2011, a robot developed by Restoration Robotics in Palo Alto, California was cleared by the FDA for hair transplantation.

Men and women may be aware of other medical robotic systems such as the da Vinci and Sensei Robotic Catheter System, but this is the first time a robot has been applied to the delicate and painstaking task of identifying and extracting individual follicular units for hair restoration surgery. The research took over 5 years and required the talent of computer scientists, mechanical engineers and hair restoration surgeons, not to mention some very deep pockets. In a recent article published in Hair Transplant Forum, doctors Miguel Canales and David Berman estimated that over 45% of all prostate cancer surgeries in the United States are performed using the robotic da Vinci surgical system. Could the hair transplant industry embrace robotics with the same enthusiasm? To find out, The National Hair Journal talked with James Harris, MD, one of the lead researchers in the development of the ARTAS hair restoration system and himself a distinguished hair transplant surgeon.

NHJ: Dr. Harris, every day our lives are being influenced by automated devices and technologies we could not have even imagined only a few years ago. Most of us are aware of computer-assisted surgery, and robotically-assisted surgery, but we probably did not realize just how far this technology has progressed. As the new robots have become more sophisticated, they have even been given human names. There is the famous “da Vinci product,” the “Acrobot” that shapes bone, and, reflecting the importance of women in medicine, a “Sofie” robot developed by the Eindhoven University of Technology in Europe. Just to keep in tune with Hollywood, there’s even a “Robodoc” for orthopedics.

Your robot doesn’t have a nickname yet, but is part of the “ARTAS System.” Did you help select this name?

JH: I was not involved in naming the robot, but the company wanted to create an identity that had multiple meanings or significance. They wanted something that would communicate artistry and technique along with advanced technology.

NHJ: Since we’re giving the robot an identity, I have to ask what it looks like? Does it have a human form or is it simply a device?

JH: That’s a good question. It does not have a human form, per se, but it does have some human characteristics. For instance, there is an arm that sits upon a controlling box. The arm is maybe twice the size of a human arm, and the working part of the apparatus, the actual part that does the dissection, is a little bit smaller than a shoebox. The control unit itself the size of two small refrigerators put together. The place where the patient sits looks like a technologically advanced massage chair and is designed to align the patient in the correct position for the robotic application. It’s also keeps them comfortable for the duration of the procedure.

NHJ: What was the driving force behind the development of ARTAS SYSTEM? JH: There were several forces. The first one was patient-driven. There was a new hair transplant technology, follicular unit extraction (FUE) that was becoming popular. More and more patients were requesting this procedure, but it was time consuming and required tremendous precision and dexterity. This conundrum provided an impetus, or at least an opening, for someone to ask, “Can fill a need here?” The second factor was the lack of technology in the hair restoration field. Follicular unit extraction is not complex, but it is a procedure that requires a high degree of eye-hand coordination. To become adept at this procedure a physician must spend a significant amount of time practicing to become proficient. The FUE procedure doesn’t lend itself to being easily adopted into a lot of physicians’ practices. So these two forces – people wanting this procedure, but a lack of physicians being able to provide it – created an opening for a new technology that would allow an average physician to perform follicular unit extraction in an efficient, safe manner and meet patient demand.

NHJ: Restoration Robotics is located in Palo Alto in the heart of Silicon Valley. Is that because that is where technology comes from, or because that’s where the venture capitalists live?

JH: Its just happenstance. The chief technological officer, Mohan Bodduluri, was there in Silicon Valley, and he is one of the founders of this company. It’s an area known for its great thinkers and its scientific expertise, so I think it seemed to make sense to keep it there.

NHJ: What precisely is the ARTAS System robot able to do?

JH: It is extremely adept at assisting the physician identify, target and perform the dissection of follicular units from a patient’s scalp.

NHJ: Let’s pretend I’m a medical assistant assisting with hair transplantation. Should I be applying for another job, or is my career safe?

JH: Your career is safe. The ARTAS System may actually help you broaden your horizons. Medical assistants have been confined to certain aspects of hair restoration – the implantation and dissection of grafts, and so forth – but this adds a whole new level of expertise. I rely heavily on my assistants to help me, and they’re now being trained in robotic control, manipulation of the hardware to change out the disposable equipment, removing grafts and assisting in logging the numbers of hairs per graft. So the ARTAS System is actually dependent on the medical assistant and it is broadening their role in the practice.

NHJ: Do you see it as a complementary device or a replacement device in your surgery?

JH: Definitely complementary. I’ve been doing follicular unit extraction for over eight years and I find it is actually helping me perform that surgery better. It’s

been built on the experience I’ve accumulated over eight years in terms of analyzing a patient’s donor area, making decisions about angles and directions, and using eye-hand coordination to apply the dissecting tool to the scalp. ARTAS SYSTEM assistive technology is very accurate and precise and that allows me to use my skills and judgment in other areas. It’s freed up a lot of time as well as mental and physical energy.

Doing three or four hours of extractions by hand is physically demanding.

NHJ: So, the patient gets the best of artistry and precision, while you stay fresh and alert.

JH: That’s absolutely correct. That’s certainly one of the major advantages of using this type of assistive technology. But remember, the robot is not making decisions on its’ own. It’s drawing on our experience, then using its technology – its vision systems, its algorithms and the computers – to make accurate assessments of the hair follicles and their emergent angles very quickly and then apply a dissection tip to dissect the grafts out.

NHJ: This is not an easy technology. How did you go about testing each step along the way?

JH: It went through cycles. The basic robot was put together in California. Initially, we used models, dummy heads with implanted fibers that the robot would track. Once we got to the point where we were authorized by an institutional review board to conduct human studies, we had a prototypical robot made and brought to my clinic in Denver. There were two test sites, one here and another in California. Every time the team came to Denver there was a plan for what was to be tested or reviewed; we were very focused on what we wanted to accomplish. If we had a certain type of tip, or dissection protocol, we closely examined them during each patient session and made detailed notes about how the robot responded. We asked questions like were there any problems or technological enhancements we could make for the next cycle? We would usually do three or four patients procedures during the week, and then we’d have a session to talk about how everything went. Then, we would devise a plan of what needed to be changed in terms of hardware or software or patient comfort. We would always try to implement those changes before the next visit, which was usually a month later. The technical research conducted by Restoration Robotics has been going on for about five years now and we’ve been doing clinical testing for three and a half years. During that time, we have been conducting transplant procedures every three to four weeks. The evolution over those three and a half years of patient testing has brought us to the level we’re at now. When I stand back and look at it, I still find the capabilities of the ARTAS System amazing!

NHJ: When you were doing the early testing on model heads they remained static. But patients move. What happens if a patient sneezes?

JH: That’s a great question. The best way to answer it is with a short background story. When they were testing the robot on a dummy head, it was obviously motionless and the robot worked very well. But when the first patient sat in the chair and the robot started to look at it, even the smallest movement sent it into halt mode. It couldn’t track the target follicular units because of subtle motions, like breathing. So, the robotics team actually modeled how a patient moves and then they created a dummy system that made the dummy head move like it was a human breathing. After they had analyzed the movements, they developed software so the robot could track the targeted follicular unit and move with the patient. Now the robot has the capability of tracking an individual follicular unit in the real world, and if the motion becomes too great, the robot just says, “Hey, I’m not seeing what I’m supposed to” and pulls back and waits until everything settles down or waits for a command that it can commence again.

So, if a patient sneezes, the robot will just pull back and wait for everything to settle down. One of the things we built into the system was this safety net. Safety for the patient and safety for the follicular unit. As an added precaution, we also have a soft, rubber safety strap that we put on the back of the patient’s head to remind them that there’s something going on behind them. If they fall asleep, which most patients do, and they become startled – they’re not sure where they are for a second or so – and if they lift their head, the safety strap helps them remain in position.

NHJ: All this meticulous research led to a happy conclusion in spring of this year when the FDA cleared the device. What does it mean when they “clear” a device?

JH: We had to prove that there was a sufficient degree of safety so patients undergoing these procedures would not have any adverse outcomes. Safety is always the FDA’s top concern. We’d done over 300 patients during the testing process and not seen any adverse events as a result of being operated on by the ARTAS System, so we were confident about this requirement. The second thing was efficacy. Could the ARTAS System deliver to patients the same results that physicians were achieving manually? To answer this, we conducted handheld follicular unit extractions in parallel throughout the trials and compared them to the robotic procedures. We were able to demonstrate that the robot was producing at least as good or better results than doing it by hand.

NHJ: When a patient visits your clinic for robot-assisted surgery, what is different about the procedure?

JH: Everything starts the same way for every patient.

James Harris, M.D., F.A.C.S. We sit down and discuss the surgical plan - what the patient’s desires are, and how we plan to meet them. We confirm the number of grafts we hope to produce that day. The difference starts when I tell them about the new technology we will be using and the seating arrangement. For follicular unit extractions, I typically have the patient lie facedown in a prone position. They are probably not accustomed to this. I explain that we have a special chair that allows many adjustments and they will be in a seated position, leaning forward, with their head face down on a small pillow like one of the massage chairs they might have seen at a spa or massage facility. I also explain that they may be in this chair for several hours. Then I tell them where the robot is located and explain that when we bring it into position, it will be behind their head. They also need to be told in advance what they might feel and hear during the procedure. The actual prepping of the donor area is the same as for a standard follicular unit extraction. We have to trim the hair short, down to a millimeter and a half and numb up the area just like we would normally do and I explain this is because the robot has to see what it’s working on and be guided to the donor area. To do this, we have something we call a skin tension device, or “tensioner.” It is a small, plastic, spring-loaded apparatus that we apply to the back of the scalp. It creates slight tension that keeps the skin stable in the target area. This area is a small square and on its outer margins there are what we call “fiducial markings,” which are black and white markings that the robot has been taught, through computer programming, to recognize as the target area. Attached to the skin tensioner are the rubber reminder straps I mentioned earlier that in turn hook onto the chair, so not only does the skin remain stable, the patient is also reminded that we’re working back there. After the skin tension device is placed on the back of the patient’s head, I will explain that they’re going hear me request my assistant to issue commands to the robot about its position or inputting certain settings regarding depths, speeds and angles. Then, I’ll bring the robot arm into a position where it can see the skin tension device and those fiducial markings, and I’ll instruct it through a remote control to look for those fiducials. The robot will then look at the tensioner through a wide-angle camera, and start to read the fiducial markings around the identified area. Once that is completed, it will analyze the data of every single hair and follicular unit and start assessing angles and directions. When I give the command to proceed, the robot will start the dissection process. The patient will hear some mechanical noises and pneumatic sounds which are simply the mechanism itself doing what it needs to do to get the punches to the scalp and complete the dissection. Other than those sounds, the only other sensation the patient is likely to experience is a slight pushing sensation against the scalp and I usually tell them that they’ll probably get bored after the first three or four of those and fall asleep. Once we’re done with the first donor area, we move the skin tension device to another position and repeat the process. We usually get between 90 and 120 grafts at each application. We continue to move the tensioner along different areas of the scalp to get the number of dissections needed. After that, we remove the graft and prepare the patient for placement.

From the patient’s perspective, it’s a benign experience. They’re just sitting in a massage chair, hanging out for most of the day.

NHJ: What about the placement of the follicular units? Does the robot design and place the hair?

JH: Those are things for the future. Right now, our goal is accurate dissection of the follicular units.

This is the major impediment for physicians wanting to provide follicular unit extractions. We’ve intentionally focused our attention on this portion of the procedure. But now that we’ve done this, I can tell you that further endeavors are underway to develop the robot’s ability to create recipient sites and implant the grafts. Meanwhile, the profession must rely on the physician and his or her artistic abilities to create hairlines and gauge density.

NHJ: How do your patients feel psychologically when you tell them that you are going to be assisted by a robot?

JH: They fall into two groups. One of them embraces technology; they already have their iPods and their iPhones. As you mentioned earlier, robots are becoming commonplace in industry and in the medical fields, so they’re aware of the da Vinci system, Lasik eye surgery and micro-current wound healing. This group welcomes technology and is confident it will help them get the cosmetic results (cont. on pg. 21) they want.

17 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

18 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

Hair Society News www.nationalhairsociety.org

Marketing Checklists: A Simple Way to Coordinate Promotions

By Lisa Zimmerman Today, it’s more important than ever to make sure you utilize every possible marketing opportunity available. But, with the almost overwhelming number of message platforms available to you, both on the web and through traditional marketing vehicles, how do you keep it all straight? How do you make sure a lead-generating opportunity doesn’t fall through the cracks?

At our company, National Hair Centers, we’ve found that a marketing checklist is a simple and effective way to maximize the potential of each promotion. With the dozens of marketing sources, especially on the web, we have found it’s important not to rely on our memories alone to remember everything at the exact right moment.

A marketing checklist allows us to coordinate our promotional message throughout the various media.

For example, when we run a new marketing campaign, we utilize a marketing checklist during the planning stages. Is this promotion something we want to promote through a posting on Facebook?

Check. Craig’s List? Check. Promote on website? Check. A building banner? Check. And so on, throughout the list. Of course, not every item on the checklist will be applicable every time.

The purpose of the checklist is to make sure every opportunity is considered and evaluated so that nothing is left out that might generate leads.

Each business needs to create a custom marketing checklist. It should consist of every medium and every vehicle you use to promote your salon. The

list should include online marketing like: Facebook and Twitter postings, online directory coupons, free classified sites like Craig’s List, industry websites, email blasts…. I could go on.

Traditional marketing items might include: direct mailers, fliers, newsletter mentions, print ads, press releasLisa Zimmerman es and other opportunities Board Director, NHS for getting the word out on your promotion. As you implement new marketing vehicles, you simply add them to the list.

We have found that a marketing checklist has streamlined and simplified our promotional planning. And, this greater efficiency can make all the difference between a successful promotion and one that fails. And, really, that’s what it’s all about!

Quick Groupon Update I promised in my article in the last issue of The National Hair Journal issue to keep you updated on the progress of our Groupon campaign. As I mentioned in the article, we sold 87 Laser packages on Groupon. These buyers have 12 months to use their coupon. Now, 8 weeks into the promotion, 48 people have come in to redeem their coupons and start treatment. Of those, we have converted 9 into purchasing either a hair transplant, a non-surgical solution or an extended 12month laser program. Keep watching this Hair Society page - as I receive more data on the campaign I will pass it along.

Lisa Zimmerman virtually "grew up" in the hair restoration industry. She started working for her father's hair restoration company, National Hair Centers, while still a teenager. Now, nearly 35 years later, Lisa is the president and chief operating officer of NHC. She is also the creator and executive producer of Hair Loss Confidential, a reality television show that documents the emotional toll of hair loss for men, women, and children. Lisa has served on the executive board for national and international industry organizations. She has written dozens of articles regarding the Hair Restoration Industry for a variety publications and is a sought after speaker on the subject.

ASK JODI - THE SOLUTIONOLOGIST®

their journey. Meeting with you can be an experience that your customer may never forget. Try to lighten the mood if possible and have a little fun.

The National Hair Journal interviews and consults with leading authorities in every part of the hair care industry. If you have a question about hair loss or hair maintenance, email us at info@nationalhairjournal.com and we will publish an expert’s advice in the next issue.

Jodi is a Clinical Therapist, award winning author, inventor, motivational speaker, and the world’s leading Solutionologist®. (A person that teaches others how to take challenges and turn them into opportunities.) She obtained her Master’s degree, in New York and began working on her PhD at Ferkauf School of Medicine. She is an active advocate and volunteer for the cancer society, Angle on My Shoulder, and many alopecia groups. Jodi is the Inventor/President of HEADLINE IT! ® .

Q: I am a male salon owner with a growing female clientele. I want to be sympathetic to my clients who are losing their hair, but I am not sure what I should say and if my attempts may actually be making them more uncomfortable. Do you have any advice?

A: When dealing with women that are losing their hair, it is very important to first and foremost treat them like you would a good friend.

Be polite and honest but not placating. When people feel sorry for you, it’s an unsettling feeling. You need to be careful not to give psychological advice. They are there for your help with their hair, and will often use you as a sounding board, someone to bounce their feelings off of. Treat each person you meet with total respect and despite their mood, be positive, friendly and professional at all times.

Often a person going through hair loss issues may be embarrassed or shy about coming to see you. When you take control and speak about your products and services and keep the focus on your work at hand, this will make the person feel most comfortable. A gentle hand on the shoulder and kind words are priceless in these situations. No matter what your mood is for the day, park your problems at the door and don’t talk about yourself or your issues with your clients. Tell a lot of “movie picture stories” to your customers (these are real life accounts of other customers that you’ve had success with.) If you have a script, make sure to follow it.

Try not to use the word WIG if possible. I really like to call my wigs my “HAIR”. After all, I bought the hair and I own it, so technically, it is my “hair”, right? Remember you are one of the components in their healing process and you are a very important part of

At the age of thirteen, Jodi was stricken with a rare disorder that affects less than 200,000 people in the US, Alopecia Universalis, rendering her totally hairless. Jodi has been featured on Lifetime TV’s Health Corner, ABC’S American Inventor TV show as a top finalist.

CBS, NBC, ABC, FOX news, Entrepreneur, Forbes, M Magazine and other publications internationally.

BUSINESS FOR SALE Well established Hair Replacement Salon in the western suburbs of Chicago is available for an individual interested in owning and operating a really good business.

Fully equipped facility, with State of the Art technology and equipment; fully trained technicians–a true TurnKey operation. Excellent gross margins with very controllable expenses; well suited for an owner/operator situation.

Asking price $250,000; qualified individuals should reply to Bill Coscioni at Keystone Associates

803-644-0701

19 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

New Image International Symposium 2011 Tenerife, Canary Islands - New Image Labs held its 6th Annual International Symposium at the magnificent Mare Nostrum Resort in Tenerife, Canary Islands. Guests from all over the world traveled to learn from industry experts and hear first hand

demonstrated the latest application techniques using New Image’s exclusive skin designs and the new eXTreme Pro Series application kit.

Melinda Dominguez presented “Advanced Techniques with Skin Weft Extensions” to show how hair extensions can be fun, fast, and fruitful. Melinda demonstrated the company’s latest and safest hair extensions and explained how to attach, cut, and style

Throughout the day guests attended classes, which included Orsel C.M. Reenis, “Introducing the XT3 – Hybrid Hair

about new products New Image introduced this year.Tenerife was a perfect locale. It’s one of the hottest destinations in Europe, offering year round sunshine, non-stop entertainment and blissful, vast beaches. Tenerife is also the largest and most populous of the seven Canary Islands, located just off the northwest coast of mainland Africa.

Angelique Spiekerman, Monique Leeman & Brenda Valenti-jn Mr. Les Martin, Adam Fables, Toni Santos, Gilberto Febles & Tony Sciara

Technology”, showing how to master the new XT3 and build enthusiastic clients through trendy cuts, bonds that will hold, and quick clean-up techniques.

The educational team consisted of: Mr. Keith Zimmerman of Keith’s Hair Replacement, Green Bay, WI; Miss. Melinda Dominquez of Melinda’s Hair Studio, Boca Raton, FL; Mr. Orsel C.M. Reenis of Holland Hair, Amsterdam; Mr. Ricky Knowles of Ricky Knowles Hair and Wellness, Houston, TX; Mr. Thomas Hoyer of A.S. Hoyer, Oslo, Norway; Mr. Toni Santos, Training Director at Capel-lo, Barcelona, Spain Guests were welcomed on Saturday with a cocktail reception Faisal & Melinda Dominguez

Adam Febles, Oscar Urzola, & Tony Sciara

Tony Santos presented “The Science of Lace” and demonstrated the techniques of successfully working with French Lace to achieve the most natural results.

Gilberto Febles, Claudia Lercher, Katica Ilisevic, Gerda Khan, Melinda Dominguez, Rosmery Estevez

with local food and drinks in the beautiful grounds of the hotel.

Everyone had the opportunity to mingle and meet the staff and presenters in a relaxed and fun environment The following day, New Image Labs president, Tony Sciara, and Director of International Sales & Product Development, Oscar Urzola, welcomed guests and outlined the agenda for the next two days. Then on the main stage ‘Elite Applications’ was presented by Thomas Hoyer, Ricky Knowles & Orsel Reenis who

The Band by Secret Strands for a show-stopping look. Keith Zimmerman and Thomas Hoyer presented “Delivering Top of the Line Hair Replacements and Upgrading your Custom Ordering” to help identify opportunities within your own local market for increasing revenues and maintaining a healthy bottom line.

Lastly, to demonstrate New Image’s commitment to bringing new and advanced technology to the hair replacement industry, Ricky Knowles presented “Mastering Biolon Featuring Club W”, a new and exclusive material that delivers a new approach to the Women’s market.

New Image wanted guests to experience the local activities and traditions of Tenerife, so a Spanish Carnival themed dinner was held on Saturday evening. Carnivals are one of the most well known features of Tenerife. All the islanders gather together at these annual festivities in a demonstration of collective gaiety. To replicate this exciting event, New Image threw a vibrant and bustling celebration with Spanish music, singers, dancers, and local food. Everyone danced the night away and had a great time.

On the last day, guests learned from hands-on technical workshops.

New Image looks forward to seeing everyone again in 2012!

20 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA 2011

Las Vegas, NV. 08/11 - Encompassing all sectors of the industry under one venue, Cosmoprof North America remains the single

top trade publications, including Lucky, Marie Claire, Celebrity Style,Women’s Wear Daily and The National Hair Journal, joined leading

So Did Smartphone Technology - Staying connected during Cosmoprof North America this year was made easier by utilizing Foursquare. Prior to and during the event, attendees and exhibitors shared where they were on the show floor and took advantage of show specials which were only available to users by "checking in" on their phones or hand-held devices.

Attendees also gained quick access to the show floor map, found preferred exhibitors and located products based on category, courtesy of chirpe.com/cosmoprof2011.

This interactive map feature, created for smart phone devices, was a first-time feature debuting at this year’s event.

The return of another successful tool, One-2-One Beauty Matchmaking software, also delivered outstanding results, facilitating one-on-one introductions between manufacturers and distributors; more than 900 appointments were generated.

International Support - Cosmoprof North America dedicated special sections on the show floor to distinct International Country Pavilions which allowed small and medium-sized companies to obtain “face time” with distributors and retailers to secure U.S. distribution.

most important forum for the beauty industry in the United States.

beauty industry professionals to seek out the newest emerging trends.

Sold Out Show Floor - Attendance and participation at this year’s event proved that the beauty industry is resilient and poised for renewed growth. The show, held at Mandalay Bay Convention Center, brought over 760 exhibiting companies to a sold out floor, along with 25,000 quality attendees that included importers, distributors, manufacturers and global beauty leaders. Representatives from

Social Networking Helped - Four students from the Fashion Institute of Technology 2011 B.S. graduating participated in this year’s Trend Scout Program. Granted unrestricted access to the show floor, the Trend Scouts toured the show and spoke with exhibitors to discover new product launches. They reported on their findings via Twitter and Facebook posts, giving the entire industry access to their beauty discoveries.

Cosmprof ’s exclusive International Buyer Program united buyers and sellers around the world with resources, contacts, and data to build business partnerships. Beauty and cosmetic companies were able to pre-schedule appointments with selected importers and distributors. Overall, 560 meetings were held as part of the International Buyer Program involving more than 200 exhibiting companies and 134 qualified international buyers.

Discover Beauty - Another Cosmoprof North America exclusive, assists emerging brands in

finding the proper market and highlights the newest trends. One-on-one meetings between prestigious retailers like Bergdorf Goodman, C.O. Bigelow, Cosbar, Duane Reade, Henri Bendel, HSN, Nordstrom, Skins 6|2 and Zappos, aimed to give Discover Beauty brands critiques and feedback.

Discover Beauty Award - Returned this year with 17 brands participating. Brands were judged on creativity, innovation and market

readiness. The 2011 award winner was Snowberry from New Zealand with a natural anti-aging skin care line full of peptides, antioxidants, super fruits, and the finest herbal oils, including extracts from New Zealand rain forest plants cultivated on Snowberry’s plantation.

The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) - Held in conjunction with Cosmoprof North America, this is the professional hair care industry’s single most important award event of the year. The NAHA Awards Ceremony took place on Sunday, July 31st and was attended by a record number of 2,800 guests. The event was also seen worldwide via live online steaming broadcast by an additional 22,000.

Cosmoprof North America 2012 will take place July 22-24 at the Mandalay Bay NHJ Convention Center in Las Vegas.

21 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

ROBOT - continued from pg. 16 Probably 70 to 75 percent of my patients feel that way. The other 20% to 25% are more comfortable trusting the hand of the surgeon. I always outline the two options to everyone and let them decide. I

should only be put into the hands of physicians who are trained in hair restoration. The last thing we want to do is provide sophisticated technology to untrained individuals because we know that even though we can produce high quality grafts, only the expertise of someone trained in hair restoration can

explain that robot-assisted surgery is not experimental technology anymore. It’s out of clinical trials and achieving great results, but I don’t try to sway them from choosing me doing the surgery alone or having the robot assist me.

NHJ: Do you have a sense of how many ISHRS members currently offer FUE? JH: I don’t think I’ve seen any hard data on this, but going by what people tell me when they call from around the world trying to find someone to do this surgery, I’d have to say less than 10 percent of the ISHRS members offer FUE. And of that 10 percent, probably only half of them feel really comfortable performing the procedure. So, it’s a very small number. This alone has dealt a blow to FUE, because when patients call looking for physicians doing FUE, they run into a roadblock. That means the few of us who do offer FUE are inundated with patients from outside our geographic regions and we’re having a hard time meeting the demand.

NHJ: Does ARTAS System now open the door wider to FUE? JH: Absolutely. I’ve trained a lot of doctors to perform FUE, but because of the amount of effort and time it takes to become proficient, many physicians are still reluctant to do this. With the ARTAS System however, I can show a doctor how to perform the surgery using this new technology in about 20 minutes, and they can become relatively proficient in less than an hour. It’s an amazingly simple system to use, and it gives consistently reliable results in terms of graft production and great graft quality. When doctors around the world see this, I think they are going to realize this could be their entree into hair transplantation.

NHJ: Does robotics lead to significant economies for the clinic... and its patients?

JH: That’s one of the reasons I purchased an ARTAS System myself. I see it as a great way to achieve new efficiencies and leverage my 7resources. If I have members of my team who aren’t actively assisting me in surgery, I can now have them work with the ARTAS System in a second operating room. I’m also finding that the technology is drawing new patients into the clinic who were hesitant before. It was for all those very reasons that I acquired the first ARTAS System in the world.

NHJ: You have invested a huge amount of time perfecting your surgical skills. Are these now going to be put at risk as the ARTAS System makes hair restoration surgery available to physicians without that specialist training?

JH: Both Restoration Robotics and I feel that this

deliver the results that patients really want. So, the target market for the ARTAS System is physicians experienced in hair restoration that have a track record of results that are pleasing to their patients.

Those are the physicians that we want the system to go to. Now, you asked earlier about the advances in robotics and what we hope to be able to do in the future. While the technology today is designed to support experienced physicians, tomorrow’s technology may be able to offer harvesting and placement assistance. This could open up the field to new hair transplant physicians by creating perfect hairlines for them and making the angles of the recipient sites correctly, and so forth. We’re hoping that this assistive technology, the ARTAS System, will help all of us become better hair restoration surgeons.

NHJ: Do you envisage an ARTAS certification program?

JH: There will certainly be training programs. As for an official diploma or something like that, I don’t know if we’re headed in that direction today.

However, as we evolve this technology, we will have to develop some very specific instruction and education programs and that could lead to some kind of recognition that would indicate that a physician is now certified to provide robotic or assistive ARTAS System technology to hair transplant patients.

NHJ: How many locations are currently using the ARTAS System?

JH: One. I’m the one and only physician to have the ARTAS System in the world. As a member of the team that developed this, if ARTAS System wasn’t a technology I could confidently integrate into my practice, I would not be involved in its marketing and I wouldn’t be talking to you or any other news providers. I’m not paid by Restoration Robotics to say anything about the ARTAS System. I do this as a way to advance the field of hair restoration.

NHJ: If I was a physician reading this interview and wanted to bring robotics into my clinic, what should I do next?

JH: Contact Restoration Robotics. They will provide some basic information about the system and invite you to visit my office to observe a surgery being performed. Already, right through September, I have visiting physicians scheduled for every one of my surgeries.

NHJ: Without giving away any privileged information, how much should a medical director budget to acquire an ARTAS System?

JH: I don’t think Restoration Robotics has any secrets about the cost of the system. They charge $200,000.00 for the device. The system also requires

LASER UPDATE

• It causes an increase in protein synthesis, which changes cell membrane permeability. Permeability is the cell’s ability to accept food and O2. Obviously, the more food and O2 the cell can receive, the stronger and faster the growth. Since DHT, the major cause of hair loss reduces this, bringing it back is a key to regrowth.

• It causes increased blood circulation by 54% after only one treatment; this provides a supply of nutrients to the hair follicle. The more blood, the more food and O2 the follicle will get.

• It is clinically proven to increase the size of the capillaries beneath the hair follicle. The resulting blood flow increase provides a greater flow of nutrients to the follicle as well encouraging better growth.

Looking For A Laser?

We are continuing our series on important considerations before purchasing a Low Level Laser Therapy device for your salon, spa, medical spa, hair replacement center or hair loss clinic. First, a brief overview of how laser therapy works: Laser Therapy Origins Low Level light Laser Therapy has been used for over 30 years in Europe. Laser Therapy has been safely and effectively used in the medical field for years in dermatology, orthopedics, optometry and wound treatment. It was first used to regrow bone and tissue and to heal the wounds of diabetics. A scientist studying the effect of low level light laser on cancerous mice accidentally stumbled across its amazing ability to regrow hair when he saw that the light laser regrew the hair on shaven mice much more quickly than those who were not exposed to the light. A number of laser devices have recently been cleared by the FDA as a safe and effective treatment for hair loss and thinning.

Laser Therapy Effects: Laser therapy works in five clinically proven and significant ways to promote growth: • It causes an increase in ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate) and protein synthesis – causing an increase in osmotic cellular function. Simply put, this means it causes dead cells to fall off and other cells to reproduce more rapidly.

• It causes improved cell proliferation, or growth. These cells act like super cells! They grow faster, stronger and reproduce more frequently.

Which Model?

There are many models of professional clinic lasers to choose from. The first thing to consider may be your budget! Low Level Laser Therapy devices range greatly in price, generally from $2,999 to $80,000. Most entry-level professional hooded models range from $5,999 to $16,999, while paneled lasers range from $15,999 to $29,999. Very high-end hooded or paneled models range from $29,999 to $80,000 or over.

Laser devices come in either hooded or paneled models.

Hooded lasers look similar to salon hair dryers and are often used by salons, spas or medical spas. Paneled lasers have a more clinical, medical feel with the laser diodes being visible on drop down panels. Look for paneled lasers with five panels, including one panel in the front, which is common in newer models. As the front of the head is typically the hardest place to grow hair, this panel position will give more effective results for clients. Some laser models have a more high-tech appeal with touch screen controls and will track hours used etc. Sizes and shapes vary widely, with some mod-

a per-graft, or graft attempt, payment to Restoration Robotics. When you purchase a certain number of graft attempts, you also get disposable kits, which include dissecting tips, the tubing for suction, plus the skin tension device. It is not cheap, but if clinics look at the number of patients they’ve turned away because they couldn’t offer FUE, they could easily pay for the system. If an average procedure comprised 1,000 grafts, this could easily cover a monthly lease payment. If they do two patients a month, they’ve paid for the system, plus started to reap a profit from it.

NHJ: Looking over the horizon, where do you think we will be in 24 or 60 months?

JH: Within that timeframe, several things are going to happen. Patients’ awareness of this technology is going to increase and you will see an increase in patient demand. When this happens, you are going to find an ARTAS System in every major city. You’ll also begin to see some price reductions. Today, doctors doing manual FUE are putting a high premium on the procedure because of the complexity and the cost of their time. But as people achieve efficiencies with the robotic system, we’ll see those cost benefits passed on to their patients.

NHJ: Is FUE going to become the hair transplant procedure of choice?

JH: FUE offers something that many physicians are having trouble providing - surgery that is less invasive than the strip and heals quicker. Within about two days, my patients feel like nothing ever happened to their donor area. The mild to moderate postoperative pain that patients experience with strip surgery is basically eliminated. The FUE procedure produces mild soreness for a day or two, and that’s about it. Most of my patients will just take a Tylenol or Motrin for one night and don’t need anything after that. The numbness and tightness that people experience with the strip has also been eliminated. I’m not going to say it’s scarless, because it’s not, but the small, dot-like scars are easily camouflaged with hair that’s an eighth of an inch long. As more clinical results come out and men and women see the quality of hair transplants created by FUE, many of them are going to take a second look and conclude that this may be the way to go. In terms of product development, within 24 to 60 months, I think we’re going to see the ARTAS System making recipient sites and possibly even starting to do some implantation of the grafts themselves.

NHJ: On a more trivial note, and with apologies to Stanley Kubrick, have you ever woken up from a nightmare where your ARTAS machine is leaning towards you saying, “I’m sorry, Jim, I can’t do that”?

JH: There’s a big, red button on the machine, another one on the remote my hand and one for my medical assistant on the control panel. If the robot “says” anything unexpected we hit the big, red button and everything stops.

NHJ: So the humans are still firmly in control...

JH: This system requires specific input from the physician and staff to function. But what I’ve told patients jokingly is that the worst thing that could happen is that they’ll get more hair!

James Harris, MD has been performing hair restoration for over 14 years. He is the medical director of the Hair Sciences Center of Colorado, and a clinical instructor at the University of Colorado Medical School in the Department of Otolaryngology and head and neck surgery.

He was the principal investigator for Restoration Robotics and the development of the ARTAS System. Dr Harris designed and developed the Safe System for follicular unit extraction, which is the technological platform that the ARTAS System uses for its dissection.

About the Company - Restoration Robotics, Inc., a privately held medical device company, is dedicated to revolutionizing the field of hair transplantation by developing and commercializing a state-of-the-art image-guided system (ARTAS™ System) that enables follicular unit extraction.

els being smaller and more portable with a rolling stand.

The number and quality of diodes is also very important to consider. Laser diodes should be 650nm and 5mw. With the number of diodes, more is better! Many home-use laser models now have 75 to 100 diodes, with prices ranging from $1,500 to $4,000. To be competitive, your in-clinic laser should have 120 or more diodes if you are charging in the range of $2,500 to $4,000 for a year’s worth of laser treatments with products. Also review the manufacturer’s maintenance plan and warranty, considering if they offer specialized service options like emergency overnight replacement.

Finally, before choosing a model, consider how much room you have in your salon or spa for your laser therapy clients? Some clinic lasers can be quite large, taking up precious floor space in your business. Ensure you have a dedicated space for your laser clinic away from the flow of salon traffic. You’ll also want to provide privacy for your laser treatment clients by screening off the area from your other services if you do not have a separate room for your laser.

FACTOID Laser Therapy works through the process of Photobiostimulation. This is a biochemical, non-thermal effect that results from the exposure of living tissue to various dosage of energy at varying wavelengths emitted from low level lasers. Think the human equivalent of a plant Photosynthesis.

Hair Loss Control Clinic

THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL The National Hair Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Legal Advisor Joel Morgenthau

Technical Advisors Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin Maryla Fraser

Contributing Correspondents James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni Marilyn Wayne

European Director Hans Diks

Editorial Policy The National Hair Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry.

These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers.

Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising.

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22 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

LLLLT – continued from page 10 endpoint. These studies have almost all been carried out in vitro. The reason for this preponderance of in vitro experiments is the following. The amount of work needed to compare different wavelengths in vivo in an animal study (or even more so if it were done in a clinical study in human patients) is overwhelming. Moreover the task of comparing the relative effectiveness of different wavelengths is much more complicated than it appears at first sight. This is because of the biphasic nature of the dose response curve. Actually there is not even clear agreement of what measurements should be used in constructing the dose response curve in the first place. Although delivered fluence or energy density (J/cm2) is the most widely employed measurement of light dose, some investigators will use irradiance or power density (measured in mW/cm2).

These latter workers would maintain that LLLT should be delivered at a low irradiance and that this value is more important than the total energy density delivered (in other words the length of time light is on for). It has been realized for many years since the birth of LLLT that there exists an optimum dose of light for any particular application. In other words, doses smaller or more importantly lager than this optimum value will have less effect. Doses very much larger than this optimum may not only have lost all positive biological effects, but may actually have an overall negative effect. This observation is sometimes termed the Arndt-Schulz law, in which low doses are said to be stimulatory while large doses are said to be inhibitory.

the fluence was 0.01 J/cm2 delivered at an irradidance of 1 mW/cm2 for an exposure time of 10 seconds. and the biological endpoints were different and included proliferation, DNA synthesis, RNA synthesis, and adhesion to a glass substrate all measured in the human cervical carcinoma cell line known as HeLa cells. In some cases comparisons were made between actively proliferating (log-phase) and confluent (plateau phase) cultures [20]. Karu also investigated the Gram-negative bacterium Escherichia coli, in order to demostrate the broad applicability of her findings [21]. Figure 3 shows the action spectra obtained. Karu’s analysis of the data [14] gave the following wavelength ranges for four peaks in the LLLT action spectrum: 1) 613.5 - 623.5 nm, 2) 667.5 - 683.7 nm, 3) 750.7 - 772.3 nm, 4) 812.5 - 846.0 nm.

INSIGHT FROM TRANSITIONS

Scott McCarty

Making the Transition

By Scott McCarty My Esteemed Colleagues,

Figure 1. Graphical representation of biphasic dose response known as the Arndt-Schultz curve (taken from [10]).

A graphical representation of the Arndt-Schulz dose response curve is shown in Figure 1 [10]. It must be said however that it would seem unlikely that the peak should be so sharp. It is almost a certainty that the exact position of the maximum effect on the Arndt-Schulz dose curve will be different for different wavelengths and for different biological applications. Therefore we can deduce from these comments that a rigorous investigation of the relative effectiveness of different wavelengths should include construction of a dose response curve broad enough to determine the position of the maximum effect. Not surprisingly this level of experimental detail has seldom if ever been performed.

The studies that have been reported have basically taken a single light dose and compared the biological effects for a range of wavelengths.

Although many practitioners of LLLT maintain that a laser is better than a non-coherent light source for producing biostimulation effects, it is also difficult to compare many wavelengths using laser light simply because a range of different lasers with different wavelengths is not available in many laboratories. There are two basic approaches to generating the different wavelengths of light that have been reported. Karu’s group in Russia has used a broadband lamp and a monochromator that can be adjusted to produce band pass filtering effects (typically the light beam will have a full width half maximum of about 14-nm. It also possible to use a tunable pumped dye laser that can produce monochromatic light with a moderate degree of coherence such as the study reported by Moore et al [11].

Moore et al carried out an in vitro study that looked at the proliferation of two primary cultures of mouse cells (skin fibroblasts and aortic endothelial cells) when illuminated with laser light at an energy density of 10 J/cm2.delivered at an irradiance of 5 mW/cm2 over a time period of 30 minutes. The results shown in Figure 2 show a positive growth stimulating effect for both cells at all tested wavelengths in the red (although interestingly not at the NIR wavewlength of 810-nm). 675, 665, were the best 655-nm and 645-nm somewhat less good and 635 and 625-nm were least effective but still showed positive stimulation effects. It should be emphasized that this order of effectiveness of these wavelengths only applies at this specific fluence value and the order of effectiveness may be completely different at another fluence value (for instance at the popular fluence of 4J/cm2).

Karu has published many papers containing comparisons of different wavelengths [12-19]. The light was generated by a monochromator and

Figure 3. Action spectra in the region of 580-860 nm carried out on HeLa cells for (A) stimulation of DNA synthesis rate in log-phase and (B) plateau-phase cultures; (C) stimulation of RNA synthesis rate in logphase and (D) plateau-phase cultures; (E) increase of cell attachment to a glass matrix. Experimental curves adapted from [11], curve fittings (solid line), and Lorentzian fittings (dashed line) are shown. Dose 100 J/m2 (A-D) or 52 J/m2 (E).

6. Conclusion The studies summarized in this report taken together suggest that all tested wavelengths of light between 595-nm and 695-nm are capable of having a biological stimulating effect in vitro when delivered at the appropriate fluence. Since it has been well established that certain red wavelengths can stimulate the growth of hair in men suffering from AGA, the logical conclusion is that all the red wavelengths would be capable of stimulating hair growth in men with AGA when the fluence, irradiance and treatment repetition schedule for each particular wavelength has been optimized.

Michael R. Hamblin, PhD is Associate Professor of Dermatology at Harvard Medical School, Principal Investigator at the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital and a member of Harvard-MIT Division of Health Sciences and Technology.

References E. Mester, B. Szende and P. Gartner, The effect of laser beams on the growth of hair in mice, Radiobiol Radiother (Berl) 9 (1968) 621-6.

J.L. Cisneros-Vela and M. Marti-Roses, Estudio compartivo del tratamiento de las alopecias androgenicas y alopecias totales y universales con laser, PUVA y Minoxadil, Invest Clin Laser 4 (1987) 12-16.

M. Trelles, E. Mayayo and J.L. Cisneros, Tratemento de la alopecia areata con laser He/Ne, Invest Clin Laser 1 (1984) 15-17.

P.J. Pontinen, T. Aaltokallio and P.J. Kolari, Compative effects of exposure to different light sources (heNe laser, InGaAl diode laser, a specific type of noncoherent LED) on skin blood flow of the head, Acupuncture Electro-Ther Res Int 21 (1996) 105-118.

J.C. Sutherland, Biological effects of polychromatic light, Photochem Photobiol 76 (2002) 164-70.

T. Karu, Laser biostimulation: a photobiological phenomenon, J Photochem Photobiol B 3 (1989) 638-40.

T.I. Karu and N.I. Afanas’eva, Cytochrome c oxidase as the primary photoacceptor upon laser exposure of cultured cells to visible and near IR-range light, Dokl Akad Nauk 342 (1995) 693-5.

R.A. Capaldi, F. Malatesta and V.M. Darley-Usmar, Structure of cytochrome c oxidase, Biochim Biophys Acta 726 (1983) 135-48.

I. Szundi, G.L. Liao and O. Einarsdottir, Near-infrared time-resolved optical absorption studies of the reaction of fully reduced cytochrome c oxidase with dioxygen, Biochemistry 40 (2001) 2332-9.

A.P. Sommer, A.L. Pinheiro, A.R. Mester, R.P. Franke and H.T. Whelan, Biostimulatory windows in low-intensity laser activation: lasers, scanners, and NASA’s light-emitting diode array system, J Clin Laser Med Surg 19 (2001) 29-33.

P. Moore, T.D. Ridgway, R.G. Higbee, E.W. Howard and M.D. Lucroy, Effect of wavelength on low-intensity laser irradiation-stimulated cell proliferation in vitro, Lasers Surg Med 36 (2005) 8-12.

T. Karu, Photobiology of low-power laser effects, Health Phys 56 (1989) 691-704.

T.I. Karu, Mitochondrial signaling in mammalian cells activated by red and near-IR radiation, Photochem Photobiol 84 (2008) 1091-9.

T.I. Karu and S.F. Kolyakov, Exact action spectra for cellular responses relevant to phototherapy, Photomed Laser Surg 23 (2005) 355-61.

T.I. Karu, L.V. Piatibrat and R.O. Esenaliev, [The effect of monochromatic light in the red and near infrared ends of the spectrum on adhesive properties of the cell membrane: dependence on wavelength], Biull Eksp Biol Med 117 (1994) 670-2.

T.I. Karu, L.V. Pyatibrat and N.I. Afanasyeva, A novel mitochondrial signaling pathway activated by visible-to-near infrared radiation, Photochem Photobiol 80 (2004) 366-72.

T.I. Karu, L.V. Pyatibrat and G.S. Kalendo, Photobiological modulation of cell attachment via cytochrome c oxidase, Photochem Photobiol Sci 3 (2004) 211-6.

T.I. Karu, L.V. Pyatibrat, G.S. Kalendo and R.O. Esenaliev, Effects of monochromatic low-intensity light and laser irradiation on adhesion of HeLa cells in vitro, Lasers Surg Med 18 (1996) 171-7.

T.I. Karu, L.V. Pyatibrat, S.F. Kolyakov and N.I. Afanasyeva, Absorption measurements of a cell monolayer relevant to phototherapy: Reduction of cytochrome c oxidase under near IR radiation, J Photochem Photobiol B 81 (2005) 98-106.

T.I. Karu, G.S. Kalendo, V.V. Lobko and L.V. Piatibrat, Growth kinetics of HeLa tumor cells during subculturing after irradiation with low-intensity red light in the stationary growth phase, Eksp Onkol 6 (1984) 60-2.

O. Tiphlova and T. Karu, Stimulation of Escherichia coli division by low-intensity NHJ monochromatic visible light, Photochem Photobiol 48 (1988) 467-71.

Being an NHJ reader, I will assume you are at the top of your field. Being at the top of your field, you already know how important it is to stay on the cutting edge of new technology as well as provide options to your current and potential guests. This not only solidifies you as the highest-ranking company in your market, but also adds additional revenue streams to improve your bottom line. That being said, I will assume you are already offering transplants, laser and scalp treatments to augment your hair system business. That’s hair replacement 101.

The next step is hair replacement 102.

Currently laser is dominating our efforts and advertising budgets. But what’s going to happen when the laser bubble bursts? Right now your target market is purchasing lasers from ads on the Internet, in papers and magazines as well as taxicabs, buses and park benches.

They are purchasing treatments from you and your competition. What will you do when your potential and existing guests start purchasing lasers and laser treatments from their doctors and hair salons? If you think this is too farfetched; think again, it’s already begun.

So let the quest begin, or for some of us continue, to find the next great treatment, product or technique to help those suffering with hair loss.

People come to us because they are not satisfied with their appearance. If we improve the quality of people’s lives by improving their appearance, why are we limiting ourselves to only helping those with hair loss?

Zig Ziglar said, “You can get everything in life you want if you just help enough people get what they want.” Studies show that 80% of women are not happy with their appearance. While that number is lower for men, it’s still a bigger target than the one we are currently aiming for. I am not telling you to stop helping those with hair loss. I am asking you what treatment; product or technique can be added to your business that will help more people? At the last Transitions International meeting, Avco Worldwide presented their high frequency machine that helps with fine lines and wrinkles (we also discussed various methods of online marketing, laser legalities and reviewed our technical tips contest winners). Change can be difficult. Skin care may or may not be the direction you wish to proceed. The goal of this article is to help open your eyes to new treatments, products and techniques that will allow you to help improve the quality of more people’s lives. Please be sure to read the next article in this series. It will be written by a friend of mine Ed Gawerecki of Hans Wiemann and will clarify the importance of entering the African American market.

My best regards, Scott W. McCarty Scott is a Board Member of Transitions International and President Shear Pointe, Inc., Birmingham, MI. More information about ski-rejuvenation can be found at www.nationalhairsociety.com or by contacting The National Hair Society.

23 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011

24 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011