2010 Winter

Feature

Feature

Feature

Feature

Hollywood Artistry

Reality TV

An Even Newer Image

with Greg Taylor

Behind theScenes with Erwin Kupitz

Calling So. Cap. USA

Tony Sciara on the importance of education

pg. 7

pg. 8

pg. 10

pg. 6

Sharing TheTransitions Way

The National Hair Journal VOLUME 14 NO. 56

THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR FITNESS , HAIR REPLACEMENT AND RESTORATION

Confidence Rises For thethird straight month economic confidence among the nation’s small business owners continued to improve in November, according to the Discover Small Business Watch. The monthly index rose to 87.2 in November, up 3 points from 84.2 in October – the third consecutive monthly gain, and nearly 11 points higher than a year ago.

Cash-flow concerns were at their lowest level in 17 months: 43 percent of small business owners experienced cash flow issues in the past 90 days, down from 46 percent in October. The highest this percentage has ever reached was 53 percent in August 2010 and July 2009; the lowest it has ever been was 32 percent in January 2007.

The subset direct-to-consumer segment of small business owners registered a confidence index of 89.6 in November, up from 83.6 in October, and 65.6 in August. The November

World Economy Depends on Hair?

Coming Soon Vidal Sassoon The Movie Los Angeles, 11/10 – ‘Vidal Sassoon The Movie’ is the revealing and inspirational story of how one man changed the world with a pair of scissors.

The feature documentary is a rags-to-riches tale, tracing Sassoon’s path from a London orphanage to international success and celebrity. Producer Michael Gordon, founder of hair care company Bumble and Bumble, first set out to document Vidal’s life in a book about icons in the world of hairdressing. What started as an 80th birthday tribute to Sassoon became a movie when Gordon brought on director Craig Teper. ‘Vidal Sassoon The Movie’ shows how Sassoon revolutionized the world of hair with his pioneering, geometric, Bauhaus-inspired styles and “wash and wear” philosophy, literally changing the way women look and cut their hair today. Phase 4 Films will release ‘Vidal Sassoon The Movie’ in New York on February 11th, 2011 and in Los Angeles on February 18th, 2011.

index for this segment is the second highest recorded since October 2007.

25 percent of small business owners reported they will increase spending on business development in the next six months, up from 22 percent in October; 40 percent will decrease business development spending in the next six months, down from 46 percent in October; and 28 percent don’t plan any changes.

33 percent believe the economy is getting better, up from 31 percent in October and the highest since May; while 46 percent believe the economy is getting worse, down from 48 percent in October; 17 percent believe it’s staying the same, equal to last month; and 4 percent are not sure.

59 percent rate the current economy as poor, 30 percent rate it fair, 6 percent rate it as good and 4 percent rate it excellent.

Expectations Rise for the Holiday Season The number of small business owners expecting more business over last year was 19 percent in November, up from 11 percent in 2009 and doubling from 9 percent in 2008. On the flip side, 32 percent of small business owners expect less business this holiday season, a drop from 2009 when 46 percent expected less holiday business. Forty-five percent of business owners expect business to be about the same as last year.

Fewer Extended Credit Customers Asking to Delay Payments than in 2009 24 percent of small business owners extend credit to their customers, according to the Watch. When asked whether in the past three months, any customers have delayed a payment or asked if they could delay a payment, 66 percent said yes, down from 73 percent in 2009.

Oil Shortage

London, ON, Canada, 11/10 - Israeli-Canadian researcher, Dr. Gideon Koren, has found that cortisol, a hormone released in response to stress, can be measured in hair. While hair itself consists of dead cells, the hair follicle itself is a living organ, receiving nutrients and oxygen from the bloodstream. As a result, substances like cortisol enter the follicle from blood vessels in the scalp and as the hair grows, the cortisol moves up the strand. Since hair grows one centimeter per month on average, a sixcentimeter-long hair sample can show cortisol levels over six months. “It gives us, for the first time, a biological marker for chronic stress,” Koren said.

In a study in 2008 and 2009, at Meir Hospital in Kfar Saba, Dr. Koren took hair samples from 120 men with a history of either heart attacks or chest pain. The research team analyzed the 1.2 inches of hair closest to the scalp, and using the cortisone level measurements they built a “stress record” covering the previous three months for the subjects in the study. The study confirmed Koren’s theories.

Subjects who had experienced a heart attack showed significantly higher levels of cortisol in their hair.

They concluded that after taking known risk factors into account, hair cortisol levels were the strongest predicator of heart attack. The professor intends to continue studying the connection between stress and hair. After all, he says, it could save lives.

Murrieta, CA. 11/10 – On November 10, Dr. Oz returned to the subject of female hairloss, explaining that shedding up to 150 hairs a day was normal, but anything above that needed professional analysis and corrective treatment. His solution, Minoxidil 2%, together with dietary supplements, primrose oil and black currant oil.

Using evening primrose oil for hair loss is believed to be effective because of the gammalinolenic acids (GLA) it contains. Gammalinolenic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid, which is one of the essential fatty acids necessary for healthy development and human growth.

Primrose oil is already popular in other countries. People in India are using it to heal asthma, suppress coughs and reduce high blood pressure.

Several studies are being conducted in United States to study these and other benefits.

Puerile!

Murrieta, CA. 11/10 - Hair loss is not funny.

Hair restoration surgery is not funny. But the frat boys at Saturday Night Live don’t know that. It seems they’re still at that stage of development where they believe things like burping and flatulence are hilarious. So perhaps it shouldn’t be surprising that they thought it would be amusing on October 2nd to mock Bosley advertising by

Murrieta, CA. 12/10 - Virtual Reality will be providing the hair for Mrs., Nebraska at the Mrs. America Beauty Pageant in Las Vegas in January.

She will be wearing Contessa hair from American Hairlines, styled by the equally beautiful Bobbi Russell. The Mrs. America Pageant, with the Mrs. World Pageant, is the largest beauty pageant system of its kind in the world. With a record number of applicants seeking to participate in the Mrs. America Pageant, it is now projected that this is the fastest growing pageant program in the United States.

Crowning Glory?

Media claims prince is going bald before his wedding day Murrieta, CA. 12/10 - The world’s most watched bachelor is going bald according to gossip magazines. In its “Celebrity News” section,

US Magazine shows a before-and-after photo of the 28 year old price under the heading “Surprise! I’m Going Bald.” Famewatcher.com comments. “In our book, the Prince’s hotness rating dropped by 50% when he started losing his crowning glory,” adding, “If you are looking for examples of how hair loss affects the hotness of a man, you need not look further than these photos of future British king.”

Britain’s MailOnline website urged readers to, “Spare a thought for poor Prince William whose receding and patchy hairline was only too obvious under the flashbulbs.” Prince William and Kate Middleton are to marry at Westminster Abbey on April 29, 2011, in what is predicted to be the wedding of the century. An April wedding sees Prince William marrying in the same month as his father, the Prince of Wales, whose second marriage to the Duchess of Cornwall took place in Windsor on April 9, 2005.

I’m Also a Website (PRWEB) August 17, 2010 - National hair restoration company Hair Club, has launched its new full-service website. Hair Club and Hair Club Medical Group listened to its clients and patients who have been asking for more information about hair loss and created an online destination where visitors can become more informed about hair loss and the different solutions available today. The website features new information on the company and its services, answers to many common questions regarding hair loss treatments and offers an expanded photo and video library of client and patients.

HairMax Expands in Eastern Europe

Website Joins with Charity Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 12/10 - LatestHairLoss.com, the largest and most comprehensive website dedicated to solving hairloss, has partnered with Children With Hair Loss to provide the charity with hair replacement wigs to meet the organization’s increasing demand in their mission to provide hair to children suffering from hair loss.

WINTER 2010

The Discover Small Business Watch is a monthly index of the economic confidence of the nation’s 22 million businesses with 5 or fewer employees.

Uptight Hair

Virtual Mrs. Nebraska

™

pretending the transplanted hair was pubic hair.

Bosley’s response? On their ‘BattleAgainstBald” blogsite, Seth Garon commented, “The reason we’ve been seeing stuff like this for years and years is that we’ve been around for a long time and have tons of satisfied customers... Getting roasted on SNL is proof of that. Lucky for NBC, we have a sense of humor... as do our lawyers.”

Very cool and maybe good marketing, but in this newspaper’s opinion the frat boys got off too easily. This attempt at humor was puerile and oafish – come on Saturday Night Live, grow up!

Boca Raton, FL. 11/10 - Lexington International, developer and manufacturer of the HairMax LaserComb, has entered into agreement with a distributor in Serbia that distributes medical devices to consumers in Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Macedonia. The agreement will facilitate the introduction of the HairMax LaserComb into the growing hair care market in these five south-eastern European countries. According to Research and Markets, the cosmetics and hair care market in south-eastern Europe, hair loss treatments segment, grew over 10% between 2006 and 2010. Presently, the hair growth products segment consists of shampoos and other miscellaneous treatments. The introduction of the HairMax LaserComb will provide a new, non-drug treatment choice in these markets.

27 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

26 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

On Rite Company - Certainly 2010 had its challenges due to consumers being out of jobs.

But with consumers being out of hair as well as jobs has made this a year that showed many positives for the hair replacement industry.

View from the Bridge How do industry leaders see the future? What can we learn form 2010? And what lies over the horizon? The National Hair Journal invited the captains of the hair-management industry to reflect on the last twelve months and share their goals for 2011. The following is an extract from some of the early responders.

American Hairlines – Customers are begging to be remarkable. Make it happen!

Lance Centofanti What does it mean that the economy is still slow? It means there’s more opportunity than ever. If 9% are unemployed, 91% are still working! If there are more people looking for jobs, they have to look their best! If you believe in this country, you believe things are going to get better. Our job is to emerge as the best option out there, and we’ll continue to grow with the economy.

How do we succeed? The time-tested way: by recognizing that average is over, and that best is the only option. That’s the product, marketing and vision American Hairlines stands by. The economy is ruthlessly punishing the fearful and rewarding those insightful enough to differentiate themselves.

Here’s the signpost to the future: • Fashion-based branding, positive p.r. and new high-fashion imagery to leverage and lower costs of advertising • Differentiated, value-added offerings • New women’s business, based on expertise, sensitivity, and special training • Become more multi-gender, multi-cultural, multi-therapeutic • Consistency and greatness at every customer touch point • Enhance social networking to attract new clients • Use the HairUWear website to drive more qualified leads Our religion: inspirational hair is the ultimate anti-aging product.

Our market: explosive, with baby boomers and other factors creating a bigger base.

Our challenge: enhance the products we have and expand into new areas.

The reluctance of the hair industry to share ideas and resources is crippling it. We must provide leadership on changing our image, therapies and solutions with style appeal, and value-added benefits that stir up new

demand. It’s time for the entire industry to create a new spirit of cooperation that comes from a shared vision.

Lance Centofanti VP American Hairlines, Virtual Reality/Virtuesse/Natural Advantage innovator Follea - 2010 Marked a Dramatic Acceleration of the Dominant Trends in the Hair Replacement Industry.

The Industry is not just “going through difficult times”; it is fighting to survive. In order to do that it must reinvent itself. That means each industry participant must do the same. Look at some of the new realities that dominated 2010: A miserable global economy with high unemployment and tight credit.

A rapidly increasing influx of new cheap wigs from China and India, confusing customers and lowering overall quality.

The increasing ability for an unhappy customer to “yelp” their complaints far and wide in minutes instead of months (regardless of whether they are right or wrong).

The increasing penetration of online wig sales at the low end.

The increasing transparency of pricing brought about by hair-wearers blogging on the Internet.

Some of these can also be good things that help to end price-gouging and unfair practices, long an end-user complaint about our industry. It is the ethical, knowledgeable, sympathetic, professional hair practitioners that have the best chance of being successful in tough times. But they also need to add new-age marketing and business skills to survive and prosper.

We believe that the Hair Replacement professional cannot and should not compete in the low end of the market with low-overhead online stores and wig shops full of cheap Asian wigs.

It is a bloodbath. It is time to specialize only in the highest quality synthetic wigs and finer human hair wigs and topettes, not found in wig shops or online. The focus must be on quality products, service, delivery, and the right “personal experience” for each and every customer.

There has never been a more important time to forge ahead with lasting relationships with your hair vendors and rely on them to help you win this fight.

On behalf of all the Follea Team, I would like to take this opportunity to wish all our extended Follea Family worldwide, a healthy, happy & prosperous Holiday Season.

Michael Leigh President, Follea USA Lexington International - Self-Treatment of Hair Loss Becomes an Imperative: In these times of economic uncertainty, discretionary spending has decreased and consumers are much more selective in what they purchase. A trend has emerged showing that self-treatment of hair loss has become an imperative and not simply an option. They now consider treatment of their hair loss as something they must do.

As part of this trend, people have become more careful to study the options available and have become much more selective in their treatment choices. Because of this trend, we seen an increased level of sales in 2010, since our product is the only device of its kind backed by proof of efficacy.

We anticipate that this trend will continue and accelerate in 2011.

David Michaels, President, CEO

Obviously, any downturn in the economy a ff e c t s almost every industry a d v e r s e l y.

And our industry is no exception.

But what this downtur n has done, on a positive note, is to Andy Wright hair force replacement studios to offer expanded services to different target segments. The women’s market is the largest beneficiary in this regard. But there’s also the medical women’s market which studios are looking at as an added profit center.

Multi-therapeutic, utilizing lasers, minoxidil, etc. has also gotten increased focus and attention. But I think the greatest opportunity lies, once again, with the men’s business. They’re the largest market for our services and the most reliable repeat clients (seven years average) however many studios have struggled with this sector in the past several years because of the popularity of scalp shaving. With this fad nearing its end–and the younger man not wanting to look like his scalp-shaved father, there’s a pentup demand for hair again.

We believe that studios that invest their resources today in the men’s hair replacement sector are sure to see growth in 2011 and beyond.

Andy Wright OnRite Professional Hair Labs - Good news for Europe!

Professional Hair Labs will be opening an E.U. location. Marketing efforts are beginning now to increase E.U. clients, and we will have a fully operational facility for manufacturing, bottling and distribution by April 2011. Ryan Margolin who resided in the Southeast of Ireland for many years, has been in the US for the past year and a half, training to step in and run the new facility. We look forward to being able to lower the shipping costs and tax problems of international distribution. Safety, quality and customer care will be of the same excellence we currently provide in the USA. Howard Margolin President Spencer Forrest - In 2010 we felt a gratifying increase in the recognition and credibility of cosmetic hair treatments, particularly our Toppik line.

Like much of the industry, we seek to earn widespread credibility not just for our products but also for entire category. We’ve felt this improvement in numerous ways, including a recent rave review in Time Magazine.

For the New Year we’re focusing on new product development and on validating the efficacy of our X5 Hair L a s e r through continued clinical trials.

We’re also developing new marketMark Kress ing initiatives to increase the pace of new customer acquisition while maintaining loyalty and continuity from our existing customer base. To this end we’ve launched both an online continuity program as well as enhanced customer loyalty efforts.

Mark Kress Founder/CEO Spencer Forrest

THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL The National Hair Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Legal Advisor Joel Morgenthau

Technical Advisors Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin Maryla Fraser

Contributing Correspondents James Toscano Bobbi Russel Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni Marilyn Wayne

European Director Hans Diks

Editorial Policy The National Hair Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry.

These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers.

Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising.

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The views expressed in The National Hair Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peerreviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials.

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25 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Hairloss.com Celebrates First Anniversary NEW YORK–The website dedicated to all things about hair loss in men and women recently celebrated its first anniversary without hoopla or fanfare. Not surprisingly, Hairloss.com (aka HLDC) was launched a year ago with little forward publicity and an uncharacteristic (for new websites, generally speaking), lack of hype.

Yet, in that short period of time, HLDC has generated nearly 120,000 visitors and over 360,000 page views. Nearly 90% of its traffic was in the form of new visitors.

Most surprising of all, none of HLDC’s traffic was driven by off-line advertising or promotion.

Instead, the site relied solely on SEO (organic search engine optimization) and a very limited SEM (pay per word) budget.

“That the site has been so successful in attracting new visitors is testament to the desire of hair loss sufferers to seek new and unbiased sources of information”, according to HLDC spokesperson Michael Garcia.

And while HLDC is a site very much focused on providing information, it also is a social networking platform, with close to 2,000 members interacting on message boards, blogs and community forums.

What makes HLDC so different, and credible, is that it isn’t selling anything, including a particular point of view. For example, while every type of hair loss solution and alternative is covered, from non-surgical to transplants to drugs, the “solution” of doing nothing at all and living with hair loss is also espoused and covered.

There are literally hundreds of stories and feature articles located on HDLC, with new ones appearing on a regular basis to generate repeat visits.

Some of the topics covered—such as the causes of hair loss, and various solutions and alternatives—are fairly basic. But others are decidedly not, such as a complete section on hair loss prevention.

In addition to the “nuts and bolts” one would expect from a site about hair loss, HLDC delves much deeper with a lifestyle section that covers health and fitness, travel, nutrition, relationships, and fashion and beauty, to name but a few. There’s also a section devoted to the latest hair loss news and treatment advances, videos produced by members of the HLDC community, and even an advice columnist who answers questions that have more to do with what’s in people’s heads than what’s on their heads. HLDC was the brainchild of On Rite CEO Andrew Wright and COO David Schwartz.

Wright said that, “…it was time for a website like this, one the whole industry could benefit from.

Rather than try to get a group of companies together to sponsor this, we decided, as an industry leader in non-surgical hair replacement, to do it ourselves.

If it helps our competitors, whether they are in the transplant business or in the same non-surgical hair business that we’re in, so be it.”

Schwartz echoed Wright’s comments by saying, “We believe very much that a rising tide lifts all boats. What’s good for the hair industry in general, even including prescription drugs, etc., is good for us all.”

HLDC plans to expand its editorial coverage and social networking opportunities during the coming year.

24 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

New Image 2010 Annual Conference

Hollywood, FL - New Image Labs held its 2010 Annual Conference at The Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa in Hollywood, Florida. Domestic and International customers experienced two days of non-stop education and fun with some of the most talented and dynamic experts in the hair replacement industry.

The focus of this year’s conference was “Getting Fit for Business” and New Image tackled today’s most prominent challenges. The New Image Education team proposed solutions to counter increasing costs, client retention, product support and upgrading skill levels. The team included: Ed Gawerecki of Hans Wiemann in Creve Coeur, Missouri Gilberto Febles of Gilberto’s Hair Center in Miami, Florida Isabel Nuria Friis of Global Hair International in Copenhagen Jay Benjamin of New Image Labs in West Palm Beach, Florida Keith Zimmerman of Keith’s Hair Replacement in Green Bay, Wisconsin Kelly Landy of Media Genius in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Nick Conforti of Images International in Oakbrook, California Pat Julkowski of Creative Hair Solutions in Allison, Pennsylvania Ricky Knowles of Ricky Knowles Hair and Wellness in Houston, Texas Robert Voza of Salon Dejan in New Port Richie, Florida Terri Lynn of Superstars Public Relations in Ft Lauderdale, Florida Tom Scotti of Keystone HRC Inc in Bensalem, Pennsylvania Toni Santos of Capel-lo Hair Group from Barcelona, Spain The event kicked off with an interview of Mr. Leslie Martin, CEO, and Mr. Tony Sciara, President, of New Image Labs. They recapped the inception of New Image and outlined the contributions and innovations the company has brought to the industry over the past years. The state of industry address by Tony Sciara was particularly informative and intriguing.

Guests had the opportunity to attend classes, which included Keith Zimmerman’s, “Next Generation Hair Icon and Hair XTS” presentations covering the latest bonding techniques using the very latest base design technologies. Toni Santos and Isabel N. Friss presented “European Technology- the Science of Lace,” which demonstrated multiple application and design techniques using all types of lace construction materials. Ricky Knowles and Pat Julkowski presented “Club-W” featuring Biolon,” a new and exclusive tech-

nology that delivers an all-new approach to the Women’s market. Mr. Gilberto Febles presented “Volumizing Secrets” and ‘Keratin Therapy,” demonstrating fashion alternatives and hair revitalizing concepts for increasing traffic for non-hairloss services. Successful business entrepreneur, Nick Conforti, presented “Recession Strategy,” giving a by-the-numbers presentation on finding ways to trim operations to keep a healthy bottom line. Second generation owner, Tom Scotti, taught attendees how to “Survive and Thrive in a Slow Economy” by exhibiting ways to control expenses and cash-flow while generating leads and catering to the client with top notch service. With more than 40 years in the business, there isn’t anyone better than Robert Voza to learn “Perfecting Perms and Colors.” “Get on Board with Technology Train” with Ed Gawewcki was an eye opener on the revenue generating opportunities that are out there and how to capitalize on them. Marketing presentations by Terri Lynn and Kelly Landy outlined ways to capitalize on new marketing opportunities via the Internet and how to build sound public relations in your local media market. New Image’s own Jay Benjamin packed the house with his presentation on “The Anatomy of the Sale.” His fast-paced approach and comical delivery had the class enchanted and erupting in laughter.

The prestigious ‘Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award’ was presented to Mike Mahoney at the Sunday evening Gala. Mike has inspired many of us with his passion and unselfish dedication to the hairloss Industry. Co-founding well respected institutions in our industry such as the American Hair Loss Council and The Transitions Group has established him as an Icon in the hair replacement arena.

The Launch of New Image University, the industry’s first educational web portal, was enthusiastically received. This new approach to in-salon training covers all aspects of the retailer’s needs, from technical and sales tutorials to proven management techniques and marketing concepts. In addition, the site will host guest presenters on live webcasts, sharing trade related content to enhance business practices. This innovation will enhance the skills for any level of salon. New Image University has been developed to ensure the advancement of the hair replacement industry and elevate our profession to the next level.

The event was best summarized by Ed Gawerecki of HANS WIEMANN COMPANY. “As the General Manager of a fairly large hair restoration studio, we are continually looking for new ways to learn and improve our operations. I recently attended the New Image Conference in Ft Lauderdale and was bowled over by its professionalism and content. After attending many conferences and seminars these past 25 years, I can truly say that this was one of the very best I have attended. I came back to our studio with so many ideas that I can‘t wait to start implementing them. Whether your studio is small, medium or large you will, without a doubt, come away from these conferences with a lot of innovative ways to build your salon.”

Congratulations to Mr. Mike Mahoney, Recipient of the Annual Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award The prestigious Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award was presented to Mike Mahoney during New Image’s Annual Conference at Hollywood, FL in October, 2010. Mike has inspired many of us over the years with his passion and unselfish dedication to the hair loss Industry. Co-founding well respected institutions in our industry such as the American Hair Loss Council and The Transitions Group has NHJ established him to be one of the great Icons in the hair replacement arena.

23 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

New Kid on the Block European Hair Imports

Transitions Members learning state-of-the-art marketing and sales techniques.

See You in St. Louis!

Transitions Group Meets for Fall Conference

Transitions was hosted at the new 14,000 sq. ft. Hans Wiemann Studio in St. Charles, Mo., just outside of St. Louis.

ST. LOUIS, November 8th, 2010 Transitions International Group have just completed their Fall 2010 marketing and sales meeting. Hosted by Transition’s member, Hans Wiemann Hair Replacements, the conference offered more than 80 Members and staff a truly memorable experience.

From the beautiful and exciting Ameristar Conference Center to a special “Red Carpet” welcome at Wiemann’s all-new 14,000 sq. ft. hair loss center, the meeting was a business

All the Marketing Meetings were held in the fantastic Ameristar Convention Center.

us, “We brought in the latest information regarding the Internet, client com-

Transitions donation of toys and gift certificates to “Friends of Kids with Cancer”.

and social success. The marketing meeting started with a heartwarming presentation of more than $1500 in toys and gift certificates to, “Friends of Kids with Cancer” from the Transitions Members. “We are honored to make this donation to my favorite charity,” said Ed Gawerecki, general manager and clinic director of Hans Wiemann.

“All the business meetings were really informational and exciting,” proclaimed new member Flora Cipriano of MHN in Manhattan, N.Y. Alicia Stevens, President of Transitions, told

munications, lead generation, laser developments and expanding market penetration.” “But the biggest learning experience is the interaction of the Members. Free and open exchanges of ideas abound…. it’s a wonderful thing and only Transitions offers it.”

Greg Taylor, Transitions Administrator reports that “Our next Marketing and Sales Meeting will be hosted by Jackie Yu, our Member in Los Angeles, this coming May, 2011. It’s already shaping up to be our best Meeting yet, with close to 100 people in attendance.”

E u ro p e a n Hair Imports is a distributor of wigs, hairpieces, hair extensions and custom hair systems.

Rene Meier, the company’s founder and president, started Yvonne Solomon his career in his native Germany and after extensive training as cosmetologist and wigmaker, opened his own hair replacement and hair recovery center in Florida. In 2009, he stepped out from behind the chair to found European Hair Imports and became the distributor of the Gisela Mayer Hair Collection in North America. René is also proud of his own hair collection, Pure by Nature, offering quality hair for women. The company offers education to its customers through seminars and conferences and Yvonne Solomon, faculty member of The National Hair Society, met with Rene Meier at one of these seminars held in Atlanta, Georgia and asked him what led him to make the momentous decision to expand into hair distribution and production.

Yvonne Solomon - This is a personal experience for me because some of my early training was with Rene while he was the educational instructor for one of the major hair companies.

Since then, Rene has started his own distribution company, so the obvious first question has to be, why?

Rene Meier - My background was in wig making in Germany. I’ve always crafted and put wigs together from scratch, so almost everything I do for my clients is either customized or is tailor made. In the past I wasn’t always able to get the product specifications I was looking for, so I did some extensive research and developed my own solutions.

After making sure these features worked well for my own clients, I am now ready to share my success with other salon owners.

Yvonne - I hear many of my colleges say that despite all the designs out there, they are still not getting what they really want. You talked about your own research; where and how did you go about this?

Rene - I did a great deal of research in Asia and I spent a lot of time getting to know a company that’s been established in Europe for many years. I also explored different companies that process hair... people who don’t over-process the hair. For the most part, the products that many of the companies are producing simply don’t work for me.

Yvonne – Do you have any special requirements?

Rene - Working with cancer patients is different; you have to be able to deliver their hair right away. This limits our ability to customize.

Yvonne – Starting your own design and distribution company is a bold step. What other needs did you see that made you believe there was a real marketing opportunity?

Rene - The void was finding high-end, good quality hair. The processed hair from Asia worked well for many years, but there has always been a need for better quality. People have heard that there is better quality available, but they haven t been able to find it.

Yvonne - The name of your company is European Hair Imports, does that mean you’re using only European hair?

Rene – No it does not. I represent companies from Europe and offer their products over here. They’re European designed products, but that does not mean exclusively European

hair. The original product we brought in was the Gisela Mayer Hair collection, which is a synthetic wig collection.

Yvonne – How has the US market responded?

Rene - People who have been in the business for many years have not Rene Meier responded as well as those who are newcomers to the business.

Maybe the more established businesses don’t recognize me as a company yet, or don’t have enough information about the product.

Newcomers are hungry for information and education.

Yvonne - Do you think your background as an educator has helped you to get your point across?

Rene – Absolutely. I understand how difficult it is to learn this business and how hard it is when you go back home alone and have no one to bounce your ideas off. It is very motivating to me to help people get started who are new to the business Yvonne – Do you offer any kind of support system?

Rene - I’m still behind the chair. I am not in some ivory tower. Anyone can call me if they need help.

Yvonne - Where do you see yourself in five years?

Rene - I want to fill the needs of cancer patients and give them the best product there is. I will also use my best efforts to protect the product from Internet sales. In order to protect our industry, one of our goals is to keep the product in a professional environment. Our vision for the company is to have a select group of customers who appreciate the uniqueness of our products. I see us as a boutique manufacturer that can give special attention to custom orders.

Yvonne - Being that you represent a European manufacturer, have you addressed the needs of the Ethnic market?

Rene – It’s a custom option that’s always available. The Gisela Mayer collection was created by a German company for the local market, so the need was not there, but they have the skill to create any style or texture.

Yvonne - If someone wanted to get into the manufacturing business, what advice would you give them?

Rene – It takes years of research and development. Sometimes you are convinced you have something, then you realize its not as good as you thought. Don’t be misled by manufacturers and factories. In our industry, hair has become a mass-market item and quality has suffered.

The craft of wig making has been lost over the years. I’m trying to bring it back to where it was. To put all these elements together is very difficult. You need knowledge of manufacturing, hair sources and design. This takes years of research. To have more control, we select and buy our hair in bulk and then we have it processed and put in our designs. That’s the way wig making used to be. That’s the only way I can have quality control over my product.

Yvonne – How can people learn more about your production procedures and products?

Rene – Just give us a call, I would be happy to give them all the information they are looking for.

We cannot fill the needs of large studios that look for volume. That’s not what we are about but we can give personal attention to special needs and people who value custom work.

Yvonne - They say the success of any business is seeing a need and filling it. You look like you are well on your way.

22 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010 After lunch, Rhonda Murphy of John Amico shared her professional “Secrets,” using JA Hair Color. She was followed by Andrea Busse, CEO/President of InterNext Technologies, who demonstrated the power of mobile phone marketing. Betty Bugden and Peggy Thornhill then outlined the benefits of belonging to the American Hair Loss council before the exhibit area was reopened to allow attendees to examine the products they had just learned about.

European Hair Imports Hosts Women’s Hair Replacement Conference The Women’s Hair Replacement Conference sponsored by European Hair Imports, took place at the Embassy Suites in Atlanta, Georgia, September 25th - 28th featuring Gisela Mayer and Belle Madame wigs, as well as Premium Human Hair Wigs featuring virgin European and Russian European hair.

Classes began with Lynda Collier of Collier Consulting, Leesburg, FL and Rene Meier explaining how

On Sunday, Rene’ Meier presented his “Pure by Nature” collection and demonstrated the different ways to take a mold, including taped templates, and plaster of Paris, explaining when one is more appropriate than the other. He then applied a custom hair system on a live female model, demonstrating advanced cutting techniques and attachment methods. Rhonda Murphy of John Amico then demonstrated the latest highlighting and coloring trends introduced at the annual Chicago Beauty Show and explained which JA products work best with processed hair. Toni Love was next onstage and she demonstrated her innovative Interlocking Technique. Toni imparted a wealth of knowledge and illustrated why she has become the well-respected educator she is today. After a short break, Rene Meier returned to the stage to describe the characteristics of good hair and how to identify it. He compared different types of hair and explained which type is most appropriate for a given application and how to place a custom order,

to expand into the Medical Hair Loss Market. They were followed by a presentation by Rene showing how to prepare and deliver a synthetic wig. He also demonstrated how to alter and reshape a wig, including working with the latest Techno Hair, a high-heat fiber. Jennifer Dunphy, V.P. of Sales and Marketing of Vayu Media, then reviewed Internet Marketing and explained how to position yourself for maximum visibility and impact on the Internet.

including the selection of base materials, types of hair, and proper hair samples.

Tuesday, September 28th, was dedicated exclusively to Bellargo and Microbellargo Certification. This is an advanced attachment technique that is much kinder and gentler on the hair, using no adhesive or metals. An intricate knotting technique is used, along with special shrink tubes that, when heated, shrink around the knot creating a sealed and secure attachment. Certification covers a full studio, not the individual; so multiple employees can be certified for one flat fee.

Presenters included: Toni Love of Toni Love’s Training Center, Holly Springs, GA Lynda Collier of Collier Consulting, Leesburg, FL Rhonda Murphy of John Amico Jennifer Dunphy of Vayu Media Andrea Busse of InterNext Technologies, Alpharetta, GA

NHJ

21 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Straight Talk from Gloria (Gigi) Ford For many years, the African-American community has struggled through multiple trial-and-error methods of hair enhancement and more than a few clients have lost their hair due to a lack of technical knowledge.

To get a better perspective on how we got to where we are; we must become more knowledgeable about where we came from.

In the 1920’s, hair straighteners, now referred to as hair relaxers, were first introduced to the market. At that time, only men used them and much of the processing was performed in barbershops and salons. Sometimes it was done at home by non-professionals, or ‘practitioners’ who had no licenses or adequate knowledge.

This practice continued until the 1940’s when women of African descent began to use hairstraighteners also.

These early hair-straighteners created havoc; severe scalp burns and extreme hair loss were common, mostly due to strength of the chemicals and over-processing. In fact, the problem was so bad that the manufacturers had to pull the product off the shelves and start over. After a lot of research, conditioner was added to the hair-straighteners, which were then renamed, “relaxers.” I should point out that back then the average person didn’t go to the beauty shop every week. This was reserved for the doctors, lawyers and Indian chiefs. However, the new “relaxers” slowly began to pick up momentum and in time it became acceptable to use this chemical process once again.

By the 1950’s, cosmetologists were becoming more comfortable and more skilled using ‘chemical reformation.’ But there was still no such thing as dividing the hair into four sections and only touching up the new growth.

The chemical was just slapped on the head, combed through and shampooed out with regular alkaline shampoo. Then the hair was rinsed, set on rollers and placed under the dryer for an hour and a half. Nevertheless, most

women of color had long, beautiful and luxurious hair back in the 50’s and 60’s.

Then came the revolution and many AfricanAmerican women put down the straightening combs and the chemicals and became “Black and Proud.” They wore their hair “natural” in the 60’s, much to the detriment of the salons.

But during this period, another styling technique was quietly being introduced - the blowdry and hot-curling technique. As the 60’s began to fade along with the Afro, things began to change rapidly for women of color.

Business opportunities were opening like never before. Mothers, who had stayed at home, were now entering the workplace at an astonishing rate. Women were becoming an important part of the workforce and their appearance had to follow suit.

So they went back to the salon. The revolution was over. But these professional women demanded faster service to keep up with the rapid-paced society. And as their demands increased, stylists had to find new techniques to meet the new “chemical needs” of their clients.

Blow-dry-and-curl techniques had served hairdressers well, but new procedures were now called for. Enter Mr. Jerri Redding. Redding had dedicated his life to educating cosmetologists and had been observing the changing market trends. He was uncomfortable with what he saw and he made a profound statement, “In twenty years, there will be more bald-head women than ever before.” Perhaps Mr. Redding had a crystal ball, but twenty years later; here we are with almost as many bald women as there are bald-headed men. Mr. Redding foresaw the devastating effect of the “misuse,” let me say it again so I will not be misquoted, “the misuse” of chemicals on our hair and scalp. The chemicals used in perms, also referred to as the ‘cold wave,’ can cause inflammation and swelling of the follicle, resulting in scarring and hair loss. But chemicals are not the only challenge. The practice of attaching hair extensions and hair additions brings new risks. Let’s examine hair weaving, lace frontal and full lace wigs and some of the bonding or fusion techniques.

Hair Weaves Hair Weeve vs. Hair Weave - This awesome technique was invented and developed by Christina M. Jenkins for the purpose of permanently attaching commercial human hair to live, growing hair; hereinafter referred to as

Consumers Prefer Booking Appointments After Business Hours Brazilian

9AM-5PM work hours.

- As many as 20% of people who book appointments online are doing so between 1AM and 9AM - The least popular time for consumers to book online during daytime hours is 9AM-10AM. - The most popular hour of the day to book online is between 5PM-6PM, when most businesses are closing for the day.

Bozeman, MT. 09/10 - New research in the online appointment-scheduling category highlights the importance for businesses to have after-hours appointment booking capability. New data shows that most clients are booking their appointments when their service professional is typically closed. For a small business that relies on keeping a full calendar, online appointment booking can effectively triple the appointment-taking hours from 8 to 24, allowing them to leverage convenience instead of deep discounting to promote and grow their business and provide better client service.

By studying the request time on hundreds of thousands of appointments booked on the web and mobile phones, Schedulicity, an online scheduling service, found that only 31% of consumers actually book their appointments during daytime hours and that the vast majority, 69% of clients, booked online during the hours after 5PM and before 9AM; the exact opposite of the traditional work day. Further, the research cited that the least popular time of day for consumers to book a personal appointment online is between 9-10AM, precisely when most businesses are open and available to answer the phone.

The analysis of nearly 250,000 appointments made recently by consumers via Schedulicity, shows that: - 69% of people prefer to book their appointments online outside of traditional

Blowout Under Fire

Dallas, TX. 12/10 - Hair Restoration expert, Dr. Bernardino Arocha, is spreading the word about the potential dangers of using Keratin-based treatments to straighten hair. Such treatments have recently come under scrutiny following reports of rapid hair loss and the discovery that formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, is an ingredient in at least some of the treatments.?

Earlier this month, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced it has received complaints from consumers and salon owners associated with the use of Brazilian Blowout and similar products. Tests conducted by Oregon’s Occupational Safety & Health Administration turned up dangerous levels of formaldehyde in Brazilian Blowout that they said were 50 times higher than levels permitted in cosmetics. The California Attorney General has filed suit against the company behind Brazilian Blowout.

“I wish more people would do some research before using chemicals on their hair because everyone should understand the potential dangers of processes that transform the basic chemical makeup of the hair strand,” said Dr. Arocha. “Misuse of hair relaxers can cause hair breakage, hair thinning, lack of hair growth, scalp irritation, scalp damage and hair loss.

The process that makes hair straighter also leaves hair weak and susceptible to breaking and further damage.”

“HairWeeve.” The “Weeve” is a patented process and is now in its 51st year. It is responsible for changing the face of the industry.

Hairweeving is the art of interweaving commercially prepared human hair to the natural growing hair on the head, for length, thickness and the covering of bald spots. In most cases 100% human hair is used, not the synthetic blends that have now flooded the marketplace.

Hairweave - This is a braiding technique unlike Hairweeving, which does not involve braiding. Using three cords and the weeving frame, commonly known as the ‘Weeving Machine,’ the group of cords considered as a base element is permanently attached onto and secured close to the scalp by interwoven live hair and weeving cords.

However, too much tension on the hair can cause a type of hair loss called, ‘traction alopecia.’

If the pulling is stopped before scarring of the scalp develops, your client’s hair will grow back normally. However, scarring can cause permanent hair loss.

Wigs - Frontal lace and full lace wigs have become extremely popular within society and the entertainment world and many women now wear them on a daily basis. They were originally designed for women with hairloss and were not intended to be attached to growing hair. I recommend women wearing a wig to apply a skin protector to prevent irritation or damage to the scalp. They should also use a solvent remover to remove the lace hairpiece. They should not to wear this type of wig for long periods of time without treating the hair and scalp. If the client has hair under the lace hairpiece, she shouldn’t get it completely wet or leave it damp as this could create an environment for germs and bacteria.

Attachment Methods Once your client has picked a hair type, it is your professional duty to help your client select an attachment application method that will be secure without damaging the scalp.

Attachment methods that can cause scalp damage and hair loss include: The Braided Attachment- Your client’s hair is braided along her scalp, in tiny corn rows.

Sea Turtles And Hair Replacement?

Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 12/10 - This qualifies as more of a hoary story than a hairy story, but it is absolutely true. A team of marine

biologists has been trying to tag sea turtles in order to follow their breeding and migration habits. These are leather back, not hard shell sea turtles, so there is no shell to affix a tag. Heretofore, they have used a Velcro system to hold the tags, but that has proven to be less than effective. The Velcro works fine, but attaching it to the backs of these ocean-going creatures was problematic. All kinds of adhesives were tried, including Crazy Glue, and others, but they performed poorly. Then, one of the oceanographers got a hold of Perma-Rite, an adhesive made by the On Rite company. (How this happened, no one will own up to, so perhaps it was a non-surgical hair replacement oceanographer?). In any event, the Perma-Rite worked.

The Bonded Attachment Method – In this process, the client’s hair is first divided into small sections and a bonding adhesive is used to attach the weave to the natural hair near the scalp. The bond should be used sparingly and you should avoid getting it on the client’s scalp.

This method can be tricky and may cause reactions to the bonding solution so always test the adhesive on a small patch of skin before applying it to the entire head. Bonding usually lasts between one and two months before it begins to loosen. It is advisable that your client returns to you for removal, otherwise she is at risk of pulling out her natural hair by not being aware of the proper removal process.

Fusion Attachment The Method - The client’s natural hair is divided into small sections and then the extensions are attached to the natural hair, using hot wax. The Fusion method tends to last longer (2-3 months) and is also a bit more expensive. As with the bonded method, there are no tracks to hide, so the hair appears to be growing from the scalp and it appears full.

A woman’s hair is a symbol of her beauty and personality. For generations, women have been using wigs, hair additions and weaves to enhance their appearance. You have the privilege of using your skills and expertise to provide them with the best solutions. It is your duty to master the most upto-date techniques that will safely enhance your client’s image without damaging her hair or scalp. Without a passion for your work, you most definitely lack compassion for your clients. That’s when you will be in danger of becoming part of the problem.

About Gigi Ford – Gloria (Gigi) Ford lectures globally and is widely published in hair and beauty magazines. Gigi offers workshops and seminars on hair replacement and has amassed a vast collection of DVDs and recently published books on hair addition and replacement. She also offers a mentoring program for stylists who are interested in building their hair addition skills. Gigi has traveled extensively in Asia and maintains solid relationships with hair vendors/designers and manufacturers.

After six months, the tags were still in place and the marine biologists were able to continue to track the turtles. Due to the data gathering success by the Florida Atlantic University researchers, On Rite has agreed to donate Perma-Rite to further advance their research. It just goes to show that in this crazy, mixed-up business of ours, that things get crazier and more mixed-up all the time.

What?s next? Track bonding for penguins?

Redefining the Pie

Beverly Hills, CA. 12/10 - It’s common practice to complain that competitors are taking too big a slice of the pie. But a cosmetic surgery team in Beverly Hills has responded by redefining the pie. It’s no longer “Hair Restoration” surgery for women, it’s “Hairline Lowering.” As women strive for a hairstyle that embodies beauty and charisma, it is often hard to achieve the desired look when they have a congenitally high hairline. At any age, a high hairline or large forehead can give women a balding or even masculine appearance. The hairline lowering procedure developed by Beverly Hills plastic surgeons Dr. Richard Fleming and Dr. Toby Mayer, brings the proportions of the face and hairline into balance and can be performed alone or at the same time as their “Hairline Forehead Lift.”

CLASSIFIED FREE Hair Extension & Replacement Training with Ongoing Support in exchange partnership. with nonprofit Visit:TheSecretManeUniversity.com

20 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

National Hair Centers Founder Turns 80 Years YOUNG!

High-energy dancing was paired with an elegant sit-down Italian dinner at tables filled with fun goodies like M&M’s imprinted with Arnold’s

Arnold’s family, friends and hair industry colleagues including Andy Wright, Mel Laudolff, and Sharon and Travis Johnson came from all over the country, to wish him a “Happy Birthday.”

The night of music and fun brought out the musician in everyone, including Arnold who played drums with Lisa’s rock band “Down and Dirty.”

The family affair rocked the house and kept face, party top hats, bubbles and shakers. The playful scene had everyone giggling, taking funny photos and creating new memories. The night of excitement was the ideal birthday scene for everyone, including Arnold, surrounded by loved ones, who rang in another year of success.

Hair replacement industry icon and National Hair Centers’ founder, Arnold Zimmerman, turned 80years-‘young’ in September as staff, family and friends gathered to celebrate in a birthday blowout daughter, Lisa Zimmerman had been planning secretly for months. For a man who has given so much to the industry, this was his night to receive well wishes and love from family and friends in bounty.

Arnold, the godfather of the hair restoration industry, was told he was going to a wedding and instead was surprised by well over one hundred guests who gathered for the spectacular celebration. Guests came fashionably dressed with their own unique flair to surprise Arnold, including his grandson Jay, who donned Arnold’s Armani Green dinner Jacket.

In addition to National Hair Centers employees,

everyone up on their feet and grooving the whole night through. The evening’s entertainment also included an appearance by the “Blues Brothers” with the third “Brother” Arnold as the Guest of honor. Hilarious antics kept everyone howling and hopping through the night!

Profile

South Coast Hair Options

William Collier Design

Gets an Educational Face Lift

ment business in for 32 years, but they knew it was time to learn how to give their growing female clientele even better service. “More women want to keep their own hair and not have to shave it down. We needed more options with attachments,” they observed.

Dennis and Yvette Hammond, owners of South Coast Hair Options, New Bedford MA, wanted to provide advanced technical training for their

staff, so they invited Female Hair Additions Specialist, Bobbi Russell, to help them. Dennis and Yvette have run a successful hair replace-

Bobbi Russell and her husband Brian spent two days with Dennis and his staff. They developed a training schedule especially for South Coast Hair Options and Bobbi worked with the technical staff while Brian worked with the administrative team. Bobbi demonstrated new attachment techniques and shared new ideas on alterations, hair extensions, and ordering custom hair. Brian focused on the business side of the studio, sharing ideas on computerization, getting more website traffic, company handbooks and organization skills.

When the staff was asked how they felt, Jessica Wilder commented, “It helped open my eyes to more hair loss solutions, the Bobbi Tape Method and the Bobbi Bond are great for a woman who has had problems with adhesives or just doesn’t want to lose any more of her own hair. Learning to combine hair replacement with extensions was also great.” Andrea Page added, “The Bobbi Tape method is going to make a world of difference in our customer’s lives. This was a great boost to us all.” Bobbi Russell was delighted also. “After years of educating, in-studio training is still my favorite.

I can discover the needs of the technicians and customize a training schedule just for them.”

For further information, e-mail bobbi@hairtheraNHJ pyforwomen.com.

William Collier Design is located in Seattle’s Belltown neighborhood, an area just outside midtown that has been developing over the past 15 years; attracting condominiums, upscale restaurants, boutiques, as well as unique specialty shops.

Its proximity to the Pike Place Market and the Space Needle, along with the old-world charm of a landmark building, gives the location its unique identity.

William Collier has been involved in the art of hair design in Seattle for over forty years. He opened Salon 1500 in 1968 and quickly attracted the attention of some of the most notable designers in the city for his technical excellence and innovative designs. Collier was trained at the Vidal Sassoon Academy and became part of the wave of young hair designers pioneering a new form of expression. After completing his training, he continued to attend design symposiums, studying in England, France and Germany.

William Collier Design has been providing thinning hair solutions for 25 years, but has now chosen to focus exclusively on hair loss. Coming from a design background with a holistic application of hair cutting skills, Collier and his staff continue to raise the creative bar, fashioning beautiful styles and natural behavior from a man-made product.

This commitment has not been without its frustrations. There are many elements that have restricted the progress of the hair replacement industry Collier notes, but the most critical has been “hair quality.”

After much research, the salon decided to introduce the Follea line of products three years ago.

Collier, never a person to hide his feelings, writes, “In all my years in this business, Follea has made the single most important contribution to my success - excellent hair! Follea has been willing to reach out and produce a product line that includes a wide variety of options allowing our clients more choices. The quality of the hair is consistent at every price point. The overall success we have enjoyed with the products is reflected in the ease of coloring, styling, and designing, as well as the joy expressed by our clients.” William Collier Design is now recognized as a premier Follea Certified Atelier.

Collier recognizes that success is always a team effort and adds the following remarks, “I would like to offer a personal acknowledgement to hair replacement specialists everywhere and a special thanks to an outstanding contribution by the industry professionals. Collectively we share a common goal - honoring personal dignity.”

Adapted from a contribution from Judi Wygant-Collier.

19 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Hair Society News

“Hair Loss Confidential” secures Beverly Hills Agent to spread inspirational stories

www.nationalhairsociety.org

by Lisa D. Zimmerman, Executive Producer With reality shows covering every subject from obsessivecompulsive disorder to families of multiples, one niche that has been untouched is the tragic, yet inspiring stories of those suffering from hair loss.

Bobbi Russell

The 8 Steps to Super Service

By Bobbi and Brian Russell

In this extremely competitive industry, we need to stand out and be different from our competition.

We spend a lot of time and money educating ourselves on the technical aspect of our business, but we need to remember it’s the little things that keep people coming back. So even if you have heard it all before, take a minute and give yourself a check-up. Better yet, make sure your staff is doing all the things necessary to keep your guests coming back.

1. The Prep Work - Most hair replacement centers have a checks and balance system to make sure everyone has all the hair in house AND prepped for every guest for the upcoming week. Usually these systems are initiated because of a bad experience.

Everyone has at least one horror story…

Prep work for new guests is a little different. We need to have all the necessary paperwork ready to go for them in a nice professional manner. When we hand it to them, we politely tell them why each form is so important.

2.The Greeting - You would be surprised how many people stand at the door, say the client’s name, and then say something like, “Momback.”

The greeting must be pleasant and enjoyable for our guests. As the saying goes, “You never get a second chance for a good first impression.”

We teach all our technicians to walk to our new guest, shake their hand, have direct eye contact, smile, and welcome them to our studio. Of course we offer them water, tea, or coffee, (in nice glasses) then we ask them to follow us on a tour of our studio so they can feel comfortable with the surroundings. While on the tour, we make sure to introduce them to our staff. We also point out the many diplomas and certificates hanging on the wall and explain the amount of time and money involved in advanced education and how important it is to stay current on all the latest techniques in hair additions. Just think how much more enjoyable a trip to a doctor’s office or a dentist’s office would be if we were treated this way?

When people form a first impression it is based on 40% verbal, and 60% nonverbal. Therefore, our body language, how we say things, and how we look are even more important than what we say! So small things like lighting, the smell, music, the cups we serve drinks in, the studio being clean, our appearance, name tags, etc…should never be overlooked.

I believe that when we work in the same environment for a long time we forget to have the “eyes of the customer.” So ask a close friend, or hire a secret shopper to check out your place and your competition and have them give you suggestions on how you can improve in all these areas.

3. The PRE Consultation - This is the most important step in establishing exactly what we are mutually agreeing to do. We need to ask open-ended questions to find out what their hair challenges are. It is also important to review the forms that they filled out.

While our guests are telling us what they don’t like about their hair, we need to be actively listening and giving reassuring head nods. If our new guest talks negatively about a previous hair service or about our competitor, it is very important for us to remain professional. I know it is difficult sometimes, but we must always take the high road and remain positive.

We never say anything negative about our competitors. We also need to let the guest know what the cost of their services will be today.

This crucial time spent with your client will set the

Brian Russell

mood for the rest of their visit. Trust is built, decisions are made and confidence is instilled.

4. The Shampoo / Massage - You hate it, they love it! This is the chance for the client to relax.

Remember to ask comfort questions (water temp, neck, etc). This is also the best time to talk about shampoo and conditioner. Remember to educate them while you relax them. Then shut up! This is our opportunity to have our guests WANT to come back!

Inspired by the success of reality shows that solve outward appearance issues, Michael has already begun the process of shopping “HLC” with the goal of finding a network. “These days What a remarkable journey it is to all the TV show buyers and be a part of the only reality TV the public are looking for show focused on raising awareshows that have substance,” ness about hair loss. With five says Michael. “‘HLC’ delivepisodes already completed, ers a compelling message of “HLC” recently took another big hope and a real solution to the step toward sharing the heartheart-breaking ordeal real peoZimmerman Lisa warming stories of the individuple go through everyday. als and families featured on the show by hiring People can relate to this because we’ve all been an agent to represent the show. through hard times. You watch the show and feel for With the help of highly regarded entertainment these people and then you can’t wait to see how it attorney, Michael Golland of law firm Rosen, works out for them.”

Feig and Golland of Beverly Hills representing With a concept like “HLC” that delivers a heartHair Loss Confidential as our Agent, “HLC” is warming message to viewers, Michael expects that sure to be on the TV sets of millions of

5. The Service (The Solution) - During the service is the time to give your guest a prescription on the hair care products they will need. People do not like to be sold and told what they should buy.

Remember not only to style your clients hair but also to teach them so they can reproduce the look you have given them. They will love you for it.

Show them what products you are using. Explain why you like each product and “how to use it.”

This includes blow dryers, brushes and irons too.

Always give them a how-to-care-for-their-hair instruction leaflet. People forget what you say when they are excited about their new hair.

6. The Post Consultation - The Post Consultation is to re-cap the services you have performed. This is also the best time to discuss future goals for their hair.

Discuss their future appointment before they get out of your chair. Discuss their hair care prescription.

Once a guest is up and out of your chair you start to lose them. Ask them if they “love” their hair. Now is the time to find out if they don’t. Then tell them, “Now let’s go up front and schedule your next appointment.”

7. The Close (The Check Out) - The goal at check out is to make sure your guest schedules their next appointment and leaves with the products and tools you recommended for them. Pull all of the products and tools you’ve prescribed and put them on the checkout counter, giving them the chance to choose what they want.

Thank them with a handshake or a touch.

Americans soon. The firm represents a variety of writers, actors, directors, producers, production companies, distributors, and journalists in film, television and theater. Michael has extensive experience representing entertainment clients in television in every aspect of the process from development and production, to acquisitions and distribution.

New guests need to be called 2-8 days after their first service.

Current Guests who did not PreBook at the time of their last appointment need to be called 1-2 weeks before they are supposed to come back and reminded that they are due for their next appointment.

If someone is a guest referral, we need to contact the guest who referred them and let them know we have a credit already posted on their account to thank them for believing in us!

To view episodes of “HLC” before they go on air and learn more about the TV series, visit NHJ www.hairlossconfidential.tv.

Toni Love Hair Loss &Business Conference

8. The Follow Up - Now that our guest is gone, we need to make sure we have systems and procedures in place to do the following: If a new consultation did not make a follow up appointment when they completed their service, we need to call them in 1-2 weeks to see if we still have the opportunity to help them.

a cable network will likely pick it up to dramatize the overwhelming emotional, psychological and physical drawbacks of hair loss. We are hopeful that “Hair Loss Confidential” will be airing on your favorite cable network soon. Stay tuned!

Atlanta, Atlanta, Business Marriott.

10/10-11, 2010 - Toni Love of Georgia held a Hair Loss and Conference at the Atlanta Airport Speakers on the first day included: Phillips of Element Funding who spoke about Credit/Business, Dr. Willie Bailey of Dudley Products who presented ‘Building a Business During a Recession’ and Lynda Collier of Collier Consulting. Lastly, the audience was surprised by a visit from Mr. Joe L. Dudley,

If someone is a business referral, we need to contact the business and/or person who referred them to us.

We need to send a thank you card and a small gift to them to thank them for believing in us.

Lost Guests need to be identified. Find out which guests have NOT been here in the last 75 days.

Research your records to find out why, then call them to find out how they are doing and remind them it’s time to have their hair serviced. If they are no longer planning on coming back we need to know why.

Knowing why is important so we can fix the problem. Knowing how many we lose is important because if we gain 40 new clients a quarter and lose 40 clients a quarter we are not growing our business.

I hope this information is helpful. It has been priceless to our business. This concept was first taught to us years ago by Paul Mitchell Systems, so I want to make sure they get the credit. My administrator Brian Russell has changed some of the concepts to fit our studio and type of business and has been in charge of teaching these principals to our staff. This NHJ has been priceless.

Toni Love, who taught a class on Interlocking and Hair Replacement, Sandra Martin of OnRite, Yvonne Solomon from The National Hair Society, who taught a class on Laser Therapy, Jennifer Dunphy of Vayu Media, Dr. Stacy Haynes, a dermatologist, and Rene’ Meier of European Hair Imports.

On Monday, the speakers included: Pam Ashman of the American Cancer Society, Brad

founder of Dudley Products of Kernersville, NC. On Sunday night, OnRite sponsored a special reception for the attendees. On Tuesday, October 12th, some attendees stayed over for a Hair Replacement Certification Class. For the 2011 class schedule, please visit www.tonilove.com and/or call 770-704-765. NHJ

18 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

The National Hair Journal PROMOTING

Medical Section

COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION

Gift of Hair after The National Bout with Cancer Alopecia Areata Wethersfield, CT. 10/10 - Scott Boden, M.D., a board certified hair transplant surgeon with the Hair Restoration and Aesthetic Medicine Center of Connecticut, recently gave cancer survivor, Genevieve Proto, the gift of hair by performing a pro bono hair transplant on her scalp.

In 2006, at the age of 50, Genevieve Proto was diagnosed with Lymphoma. She had surgery to excise the malignant tumor and then received 22 bouts of radiation therapy. Though she has been cancer-free for nearly three years, the emotional and physical scars of her experience are still with her. Treatment of the malignant tumor left a prominent bald patch on her scalp. She feared that she would have to endure this constant reminder of her illness for the rest of her life.

Dr. Boden is a participating physician with the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons Operation Restore program, which helps people who have lost hair as a result of disease or trauma and lack the financial resources to have corrective hair restoration surgery. Through Operation Restore, Dr. Boden met with Genevieve and determined her to be a good candidate for hair transplantation. “Genevieve is a fighter and came through the battle of her life,” said Dr. Boden. “The opportunity to restore her confidence and selfesteem through hair transplantation was a gratifying experience for me. It’s for this reason that I enjoy being involved with Operation Restore.”

About Operation Restore - The Operation Restore program matches prospective hair loss patients with volunteer ISHRS physicians to obtain hair restoration services to help restore the physical and emotional wellness of the individual. The foundation will provide financial, travel, lodging, and medical assistance to eligible patients. For more NHJ information visit www.ISHRS.org

Foundation Needs Your Support!

By Lucinda D. Beaty Because of my commitment to NAAF I want to alert you to the most exciting news about NAAF funded genetics to date! Led by a NAAF Scientific Advisory Council Member Dr. Angela Christiano, and using cases from the NAAF Registry, a team of investigators from Columbia University Medical Center has found EIGHT genes that contribute to Alopecia Areata, One of which has a possible role in the onset of the disease. Which is affecting over 5 MILLION Americans.

Alopecia currently has no cure and no treatment that works across the board. Part of the significance of this recent finding is that many of the genes found to be associated with Alopecia Areata are also associated with other Auto Immune Diseases, including: Rheumatoid Arthritis, Type One Diabetes, Celiac Disease and Lupus. This discovery therefore, is expected to lead to effective clinical treatments. “Finally we have the possibility of drugs that specifically target the mechanism behind the disease” says Dr. Christiano.

Dr. Christiano’s (Acclaimed Geneticist) study compared the DNA of 1,054 Alopecia Areata patients with 3,200 control subjects and identified EIGHT suspect gene mutations. Some are known to regulate the white blood cells that fight infections in our bodies while others fight against our body. Dr. Christiano also created a genetic test that will indicate the severity of the disease. For your clients this means that you will be able to determine if their bald spots will progress into total body hair loss. Dr, Christiano

wants to now look at a larger sample of up to 10,000 patients to see whether any other undiscovered genes are involved.

So what I’m asking you as a Hair Replacement Specialist to INFORM your Alopecia clients to REGISTER with The National Alopecia Areata Registry. The registry is designed to answer questions. The more people who participate in the registry, the more questions will be answered and the more resources they can provide for researchers and pharmaceutical companies to advance more studies like Dr. Christiano’s and possibly find a treatment for this disease. “This research is very exciting as alopecia Areata affects a huge number of people worldwide, and there are currently few treatment for it, resulting in an enormous unmet medical need,” said Vicki Kalabokes, president and CEO of NAAF, which has funded Dr. Christiano for the past 13 consecutive years.

The registration process is simple. Your client would have to complete a screening questionnaire (Short Form), which provides the registry with both epidemiological and statistical informational about Alopecia Areata. They can find this form online at www.NAAF.org or call Clinical Coordinator, Joyce S. Osei at (713) 794-1442. Your clients may also choose to complete a second part of the registry, which involves completing a longer questionnaire (Long Form), traveling to participating sites for a brief skin exam, donating blood for genetic and other research. There is no charge for going to one these sites to complete the second part of the registry.

Federal funding for the registry ended on September 30th of 2010 but NAAF is continuing to maintain the registry at its own expense.

The registry has created an enormous opportunity to advance basic, clinical and transitional studies in Alopecia Areata. So please ask your clients to register and take advantage of this opportunity that will not only help them but NHJ there fellow Alopecians.

FULL CIRCLE Back in 2002, Hairogenics offered to store samples of hair for men and women as an insurance against future thinning. For $49, clients were told their hair would be stored in a secure environment and that the DNA contained in each strand would be available in the future for extraction and cell multiplication or organ development when scientific research was more advanced. Their advertising claim was compelling, “Until there is a safe, proven and attractive alternative to baldness, deposit and preserve your hair in the Hairogenics temperature-controlled and desiccated underground storage facility." Notwithstanding the fact that DNA can be extracted from multiple sites on the body, many unsuspecting people got out their scissors… and checkbooks… to enroll in the program.

Fast-forward to April 2010 and a new company, NeoStem announces the official launch of the “NeoStem Cambridge Research & Development and Adult Stem Cell Collection Center." The 8000 ft.Ç facility at the Riverside Center in Cambridge, Massachusetts offers clients the opportunity to have their own stem cells collected for future therapeutic use. NeoStem's promise is neatly summed up in their corporate slogan, slogan, "Your Cells - Your Use - Your Life." According to the company’s website, NeoStem, Inc. is engaged in the development of stem cell-based therapies, pursuit of anti-aging initiatives and building of a network of adult stem cell collection centers in the U.S. and China that are focused on enabling people to donate and store their own (autologous) stem cells for their personal use in times of future medical need.

Fast-forward again to November 2010 and NeoStem proudly announces the closing of stock offerings for $19 Million. "These funds will give NeoStem the ability to proceed with its acquisition of Progenitor Cell Therapy LLC, and focus on growing the cord blood and adult stem cell banking, cellular manufacturing and therapeutic business, as well as expand our businesses in Asia and other countries," said Dr. Robin Smith, Chief Executive Officer of NHJ NeoStem, Inc."

17 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

16 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Madison Avenue (continued from pg .4) social media, digital communications, etc. As for branding, it has moved far beyond what people originally thought it meant. It’s not just about a logo, or a TV commercial, or a public relations effort. Every consumer touch point is part of the brand. I mean, everything, from the way the studio answers its phone, to the way it handles complaints from its clients. Even little things like having current magazines in the lobby, is part of the studio’s brand.

NHJ: With so many media choices, how do you evaluate new leads? Is a website inquiry as valuable as a phone call? Is a lead still a lead?

SD: Sure it is. As for the quality of the lead, there’s no way to tell until you “prospect” it. A lot of studios will say, well, I got a lot of leads but they were really low quality leads. Well, what makes you say that? The studio owner might respond, “Well, no one came in and bought anything.” So then, you’ll follow up with the obvious questions, such as, “Did you telemarket them?

Did you send them a brochure? Did you send a follow-up letter? Are you planning to contact the lead again in the next several months?” And a lot of times you find out they did none of those things. I worked my way through college selling advertising space in the college newspaper. A lot of times, I’d see some sleepy little storefront selling antiques or whatever and tell myself, “They’re not going buy an ad from me, I mean, this is a college newspaper.” But sometimes I’d walk in just for a lark and they’d give me an ad. And they’d tell me, “A lot of our customers are faculty” and here I was passing them by! As for conventional and new media working together, well, I could take the whole Hair Journal issue on that one. So let me put it as succinctly as I can: the consumer doesn’t differentiate between new media and conventional media; neither should we.

NHJ: How has the consumer changed?

SD: I don’t think that today’s consumers are really better educated or more discerning. I think that they’ve always been a lot smarter than people in marketing gave them credit for. Sixty years ago, David Ogilvy said, “The consumer is NOT a moron, the consumer is your wife.” In other words, people all want the same thing: to be treated with respect and to be spoken to in a language that they understand. If the consumer thinks you understand their problem, he/she is far more likely to believe that you can offer a solution.

NHJ: Is hair replacement still a good career choice?

SD: I think the hair industry has a vibrant future, unless someone comes up with a pill tomorrow that will instantly grow a person’s hair back.

Failing that, and I don’t think it’s going to happen anytime soon, the hair industry provides a valuable service. A lot of people just don’t want to be bald. How we appeal to these people will always evolve; so too, will how we market ourselves.

The market for our services isn’t going away any time soon.

NHJ: You have pointed out that consumers reject the notion of hair equals “confidence.” So what business are we in, vanity, anti-aging...?

SD: People replace their hair for different reasons. I’m not sure it’s an anti-aging thing; rather, an attempt to look one’s real age. Is it vanity or personal enhancement? Well, one could say the same thing about wearing nice clothing or driving a nice car. As for the “confidence” thing, that’s always been lost on me. I would just say that hair means different things to different people. I mean, the reason a 35-year-old man replaces his hair is unlikely to be the same as a 50-year-old woman who adds or extends her hair. That’s what makes the advertising business so interesting, and so challenging.

NHJ: Any final comments?

SD: A lot of people don’t know this, but Andy Wright has always wanted to be a matador.

Although instead of fighting bulls, I think he wants to fight sheep. Or perhaps small goats— with Andy it’s hard to tell. But I will say this, Andy has great legs; I think he’d look terrific in those matador knickers, particularly the gold sparkly ones. Seriously, I think Andy will always stay involved in some way in the hair business.

He’s been a great client to me, and a great friend as well. I’ve learned a helluva lot from him, believe me.

NHJ: Anything else?

SD: Well, let me just conclude, if anyone is still reading at this point, by saying what I never really get a chance to say, at least not often enough.

And that is, it’s been a real privilege for me to be associated with this industry for these many, many years. I’ve met some terrific people and have made a lot of very good friends…gee, I sound like I’m writing my epitaph here, don’t I? Nah, far from it. I’m very much looking forward to the future. There are a lot of opportunities and challenges left in the hair business and I plan to NHJ be part of them.

An Even Newer Image

(cont. from pg.6) NHJ: You have explored other production centers. At the time, you didn’t want that information published, but is there anything over the horizon that you are free to talk about?

TS: Over the past five to seven years we’ve been very proactive with our chain of supply.

We’ve invested in other countries outside of China. We’ve invested in Vietnam, and Vietnam is now becoming a factor for us.

We’re also looking at some neighboring countries. To build a hair factory is a very expensive and time-consuming process. It takes a long time to train people, so these decisions are not entered into lightly.

NHJ: The consumer marketplace is increasingly driven by images of attractive personalities, celebrities, and the world of fashion.

Your company name is New Image - How do you help your customers build a glamorous and attractive new image?

TS: Basically our role is to provide the tools to our customers so they can market their brands. Because we’re in such a niche environment, it’s very difficult to brand a new image outside of the retail environment.

NHJ: I would be a very poor reporter, Tony, if I didn’t try to get some kind of news scoop. Is there anything that you can share with readers of the National Hair Journal about events or new products that you are going to introduce?

TS: Well, we have a number of products in our lab that we’ve been working on for the last couple of years. We are definitely going to promote our Biolon program, not only in the United States, but also globally. As with many other industries over the past ten years, our business is now becoming more global.

Even though we’ve been selling hair all over the world for many years, we see the international market as a strong point for New Image.

NHJ: Is the United States still a world leader in hair additions?

TS: Definitely. The biggest players are right here in the U.S. It’s people like New Image who are spending money to develop new materials and new technology. So most of the innovation is coming from the U.S.; we’re still the leaders.

NHJ: If there has been one theme in our discussion this morning it’s been the fact that you are constantly looking forward. Do you see technology as the driving force in the hair addition world today?

TS: Yes, of course. Biolon is a perfect example of this. Biolon is all technology and science.

NHJ: Is hair replacement still a good career path?

TS: Absolutely. This is a business that has done very well for many people. And now you’re seeing the second generation come in, made up of younger, more educated operators. This may be a niche industry, but it’s a very viable industry. It’s not cosmetics, but it’s definitely a worthwhile, lucrative business.

NHJ: If you were talking to one of those youngsters, what skills would you tell them to acquire?

TS: Many of them already have advanced skills. They’ve had a college education; some of them are even coming in with business degrees. They’re comfortable with Internet marketing. So they’re coming with tools they need to be able to challenge the future.

NHJ: What is your own role?

TS: I’m a very low-key guy. I don’t have a big ego. I have a very strong team around me. I analyze everything I tell other businesses. Everything we recommend to others we actually do ourselves. It’s the skills that you’ve developed around you that make you strong.

NHJ: Any final comments?

TS: We’ve covered a lot of ground, but I think the future is all about knowing your strengths and your weaknesses; building on your strengths and strengthening your weaknesses. The next biggest challenge for the industry is going to be chain of supply.

That’s going to be the big factor over the next five to ten years. With the initiatives New Image has taken, we’re still ahead of the game and we plan to continue to help our retailers be successful in their businesses.

NHJ: We know you’re on your way to China and fighting the clock. Thank you for taking 60 minutes out of a busy morning to talk with us.

TS: My pleasure. I’m very happy to share our thoughts with the rest of the industry. NHJ

15 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Reality TV Calling SO.CAP. USA! Up and coming models and actresses are always looking for ways to look more glamorous, and many of them are finding it with hair extensions. One company, SHE Hair Extensions by SO.CAP. USA has been featured on a number of popular TV shows, including Bravo TV’s Shear Genius, The Bachelor and Bachelor Pad. The following article describes how two young women made a name for themselves on reality TV. Gwen Gioia is best known for her appearances on ABC’s hit television show The Bachelor and most recently The Bachelor Pad. Her love of the limelight stemmed from her love of dance and theater throughout her childhood and college years. This led her to join a modeling agency, which she’s been with for over 10 years. Gioia notes, “I’m very spontaneous and adventurous when it comes to new and exciting opportunities, which is actually how I got involved with modeling in the first place.”

With upcoming television appearances and spokesmodel opportunities, Gioia decided that professional hair extensions would be the perfect way to update her look. “My hair is very thin so I’ve always admired the full hair look of celebrities on the covers of magazines. I love hair!” Her fear, like many other people, was that hair extensions might damage her already fragile hair. “After doing a lot of research, I was drawn to SHE Hair Extensions by SO.CAP. USA. I read comments from other people that had used them

Ashley Elmore also appeared on ABC’s hit television shows The Bachelor and Bachelor Pad. When the possibility of participating in the reality TV shows came up, Elmore decided that professional hair extensions were something she wanted to invest in. “I am lucky to have long, pretty, brown hair but I’ve always wanted more length, body and volume. I’ve worn clip-in extensions before, but I wanted a more permanent solution.” Her fear however, like many others, was that hair extensions wouldn’t look natural, would fall out, or might even damage her healthy hair. So just like Gwen Gioa, Ashley began to research all her options before deciding to try SHE Hair Extensions. She was pleased to find that the extensions were made from 100% Remy hair for a natural look that were keratin-bonded to her own hair to prevent slippage and would not damage her own hair. Beforehand, Elmore was worried the hair extensions would be obvious and feel strange to the touch, “I really thought it would feel weird, but it definitely doesn’t.” After requesting a makeover and seeing her new extensions, Elmore proclaims, “I absolutely NHJ love it. I’m going to keep looking in the mirror all day long!” and I was happy to find the reviews were extremely positive.” Gioia recently received a makeover with a full head of 100% human hair extensions from Kathy Williams using SHE Hair Extensions. Kathy is a member of SO.CAP’s National Education Team.

Gwen’s exposure to the modeling world allowed her to break into television. “It’s all about aligning yourself with the right people because there are certain opportunities you can only gain with the right person or the right agent.” That is what led her to The Bachelor. “I didn’t even apply to be on it, it kind of just fell into my lap. I would have never done it if I had the time to really think about it. In the end, The Bachelor was such a positive experience it was worth taking that risk again with Bachelor Pad.” Gwen Gioa’s experiences on TV opened up many doors for her. Subsequent to The Bachelor and Bachelor Pad, she appeared on shows such as Good Morning America, The View and the E! True Hollywood Story: The Bachelor. After The Bachelor she went on to co-write a book titled “Nobody’s Perfect” based on her dating experiences. She’s also had the opportunity to be affiliated with the Philadelphia Eagles, Phillies and Flyers. Currently she’s working on the QVC Network as a special program host.

In addition to her modeling and spokesmodel work, Gwen Gioa maintains full-time employment as a human resource professional in the pharmaceutical industry. She hires and interviews nurses, doctors and medical writers or anyone involved in clinical trials. Gwen double majored in Psychology and Interdisciplinary Social Sciences from State University of NY at Buffalo and also earned her Masters in Industrial Organizational Psychology from West Chester University.

Gwen proclaims, “I love my hair extensions! For me, the ability to try new styles, even though I wasn’t born with the length or volume is amazing. I’ve finally got the glamorous look that I’ve always wanted.”

14 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Laser Hair Therapy: Playing By the Rules

By Jerod Prindable

Shortly after the National Hair Journal article announced the FDA clearance of the MEP Hair Growth Stimulation System, the phone calls began rolling in. Most callers requested information on the MEP-90 itself, but many salon and clinic owners were concerned about the implications the FDA clearance had for cosmetic lasers. Prior to the MEP-90’s approval, there were no clear guidelines outlining the correct usage of these devices. We knew for example, that if local regulations allowed, cosmetic lasers were legal to use without any special oversight. We also knew that advertising for “cosmetic” laser therapy couldn’t include any medical claims. But what did that really mean? Was the line drawn at claims of hair “regrowth?” Would we be crossing that invisible line by describing laser therapy as a ‘hairloss treatment?” If you asked the prominent figures in the industry what the legal bounds for advertising were, you would likely get a handful of different answers. The truth is, most of our knowledge came from the trials and tribulations of companies that had pushed the boundaries and learned the limits the hard way. When a laser service provider was in trouble, the supposed reasons passed through the industry like ripples on a pond. Unfortunately, this was about as reliable the games we played as children where someone would whisper a secret on one side of the room and by the time it was passed through the class it was entirely different.

Enter the MEP-90; the first device cleared and classified for hair growth in women experiencing androgenetic alopecia. While the Hairmax LaserComb’s clearance predates it, the MEP-90 added a new wrinkle, as it was the first Class-II medical laser for hairloss available by prescription only. This begged the question, was the FDA directing the future of laser hair therapy towards medical oversight? It turns out that the answer is both Yes and No, but I’ll get to that in a minute. The advent of the MEP-90 also brought out the worst in a lot of companies.

How many ads have popped up in the last few months for lasers featuring, “FDA approved technology” and how many distributors now claim that, ”Laser Therapy is a medically tested and approved treatment,” insinuating that their own lasers are part of that elite group? These companies may believe what they are saying is basically true... even if it doesn’t strictly apply to their machines. However, based on my dialogue with the FDA, they may be in for a nasty surprise sooner rather than later.

As a laser consultant at Prevail Technologies and a contributing editor to the National Hair Journal, I felt a personal responsibility to inform and educate hairloss professionals on this complicated topic. To provide the clearest possible guidelines, I went straight to the top and spoke with Dick Thompson, media director for the FDA Center for Devices & Radiological Health. I want to thank Mr. Thompson for taking the time to research the issues and talk with his colleagues to find the answers we so desperately need. Due to space limitations, we are listing only the questions and answers most directly applicable to this article. Please feel free to contact us at PrevailTechnologies.com for the entire unedited transcript.

Dick Thompson (DT): As I’ve learned, the situation is quite complicated and I can understand the confusion. Before I get to your questions, let’s begin with this fundamental understanding, and call it “Rule One.” Any device marketed to treat a medical condition (and hairloss, from FDA’s viewpoint, is a medical condition) must be cleared by the FDA. If the same device is used for cosmetic purposes, it does not cross

a regulatory threshold and FDA would generally have no interest in it.

The next circle of confusion involves the particular devices themselves. The manufacturers of some lasers have applied to the FDA for clearance to sell these lasers to treat hairloss. They have provided supporting evidence - randomized, double blinded, (and) and control trials - and with that supporting data, their devices have been cleared. COMPLICATION: These same devices, marketed for cosmetic purposes, would not need FDA clearance (see Rule One).

Next, let’s assume another company builds an exact duplicate of the device FDA has cleared for hairloss. Again, if they market it for cosmetic purposes, they do not need FDA’s clearance. But if they want to sell it for treating hairloss, a medical condition, then they would need to apply to FDA for clearance (Rule One). This is the case even though the device is a clone of another manufacturer’s FDA cleared device.

Let’s assume a salon operator has one of these uncleared lasers and is advertising it to customers. If the advertisement is for cosmetic purposes, Rule One says there is no problem. But in a virtual twist of the law, if the operator advertises it as a hairloss treatment, then the law views the operator the same as if he or she were a manufacturer and an FDA clearance would be required.

Finally, it’s important to keep in mind that FDA has regulatory authority over manufacturers alone (and “operators” when they make medical claims). It is (each) states responsibility to determine who can use medical devices.

Our interpretation: Hairloss, by FDA definition, is a medical condition and as such only cleared medical devices can advertise the treatment of hairloss. Further, even as a service provider, advertising that claims to treat hairloss will bring you under the purview of the FDA the same as if you were a manufacturer. Also, just because one laser was approved for treating hairloss, other lasers - even those that use the same number of diodes, same wavelength, or appear identical - could be liable to the FDA for fraudulent advertising if they suggest their device performs similarly to the cleared device.

Jerod Prindable (JP): As I am sure the FDA is aware, cosmetic lasers have long been used by non-medical practitioners to provide the appearance of ‘thicker, fuller hair.” I assume, as reasonable people, we can all also agree that this is a veiled reference to treating hairloss. Therein lies the first basic question, is the act of using class IIIa cosmetic lasers to treat hairloss itself inherently prohibited? Or is it simply the manner in which it is advertised that must be monitored? In other words, can a cosmetic class IIIa laser be legally used, for commercial purposes on clients experiencing hairloss?

DT: First complexity. The FDA doesn’t use the term, “Cosmetic.” I’ve used it above to explain the difference between medical and aesthetic uses of a device. So “thicker, fuller hair” would fall outside Rule One. We don’t assume this is a veiled reference to treating hairloss. But a specific claim to treat the medical condition of hairloss would subject the device, and perhaps the operator, to FDA authority. And second complexity: Class IIIa is a designation of how dangerous the laser is, that is how likely is it to cause eye or skin damage. This Class III is not related to FDA’s medical device classification. I hope you are beginning to see the distinction now that FDA makes between “appearance” and “treatment.”

Our interpretation: Mr. Thompson high-

lights the difference between fraudulent advertising and the correct “aesthetic use” advertising. Providing the appearance of thicker, fuller hair is a cosmetic claim, while the treatment of hairloss is a medical claim and contrary to cosmetic use of the device.

Jerod Prindable (JP): Cosmetic Class IIIa lasers typically utilize the same 650(+/-) nm wavelength as the newly cleared MEP-90, which was cleared as a class II medical device. Does the clearance of the MEP-90 as a physician-only device suggest that the FDA feels the treatment of Androgenic Alopecia with lasers should strictly fall within the province of physicians? Also, several cosmetic laser manufacturers are starting to draw parallels from their cosmetic machines to the MEP-90 in their marketing in order to take advantage of the positive results the MEP-90 obtained in its clinical trials. Is this practice allowable? Should our readers be wary when they are told that a cosmetic machine, “works the same?”

DT: FDA regulates manufacturers, but States determine who can use these devices.

But simply because one device has been cleared doesn’t mean that another manufacturer’s device meeting the same standards is automatically cleared.

It is not.

Manufacturers must apply to FDA for clearance for every device used to treat a medical condition.

Our interpretation: Anyone claiming that their laser is a “cleared technology,” or that lasers in general are “FDA cleared” should not be surprised if their advertising garners the attention of the FDA center for compliance. As the MEP-90 finds more traction in physicians’ offices around the country, there will be less tolerance for cosmetic laser centers making unwarranted medical claims. In fact, I predict that owners of the MEP-90 will take steps to stop them piggybacking off the MEP-90’s FDA clearance.

JP: Many of our readers have experienced frustration with competitors who do not comply with the law to gain an unfair advantage. This has discouraged many parties from entering the laser market for fear that they would also have to work in an illegitimate fashion in order to compete. The Journal has been adamant that all laser operators should respect the regulatory guidelines. What is the best way to report professional misconduct?

DT: Complaints should be sent to the Device Center’s Office of Compliance, together with examples of the misleading advertising or marketing material.

Our Interpretation: If you are aware of someone in your area who isn’t playing by the rules, the first step is to inform them of the infraction and provide them an opportunity to rectify the situation. Most of the time, you will find that they are unaware of the regulations. If they continue to mislead their clients and make fraudulent claims, they should be held accountable. Regardless of which side of the street you operate on, medical or cosmetic, it is in our client’s best interests to honest, open and transparent about the services we are providing them. It is only in this way that laser therapy will attain the credibility it deserves.

In Conclusion: While I think that the guidelines the FDA has provided impose clear limits on cosmetic laser advertising, I see some light at the end of the tunnel.

Cosmetic (or “aesthetic”) laser usage is not in and of itself illegal. Also, as long as providers toe the line and keep their advertising limited to cosmetic benefits such as the “appearance of thicker, fuller looking hair,” the FDA does not try to read any more into than that. As Mr. Thompson mentioned, when evaluating cosmetic claims, the FDA does not, assume this is a veiled reference to treating hairloss. However, if providers choose to ignore these strictures, it is only a matter of time before they will be held accountable. If your facility relies on such terms as, “Treatment of hairloss,” “FDA approved technology” or “Hair regrowth,” then it is likely that your long-term goals would be better served by working with a physician and purchasing a genuine FDAcleared device, rather than waiting for that knock at your door…

Chemotherapy & Custom Made Wigs: The Right Way To Go?

by Michael Leigh

When a woman receives the devastating news that she has been diagnosed with cancer, she is quickly enrolled in a program of chemo or radiation therapy. And as she learns about the side effects of this treatment, her thoughts turn to maintaining her normal lifestyle and adjusting to the probability that she will lose her hair, the very symbol of her femininity.

One of the most successful practitioners in the hair replacement business today is Barry Hendrickson. His famous Bitz-n-Pieces Salon is located in New York City. I recommend reading Barry's new book, "Looking Like You" which is dedicated to medical hair replacement. Buy a copy and show it to your chemotherapy clients. It is an authoritative and sympathetic guide to the journey your client is about to go through. It can be ordered through Amazon.com, or directly from his web site LookingLikeYou.com. Barry's recipe for helping his chemotherapy clients is simple: offer them great service from expert, sympathetic staff; a full range of products at all price points; and always, the ability to leave looking and feeling beautiful, wearing a perfectly fitted and styled hairpiece. He does all of this in a highend salon that he designed personally and which he changes every season: “Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall, puts you in the mood to look your best in them all” (Barry).

99 times out of 100, Barry's chooses not to go for a custom-made wig, but to give his client a “Customized Experience.” He selects one of their On-The-Shelf products from the fully stocked stockroom and skillfully customizes it. Through creative styling, color work and cap resizing, his Bitz-nPieces team can do whatever is necessary to achieve a perfect look. Barry's clients frequently select a Follea wig, which they find easy to style, color and cut. The modifications take a maximum of a couple days to complete. This brings me to an important point: we discourage you from placing orders for a custom-made wig for your chemotherapy client if she is about to start treatment. It won’t be ready in time. Every day, we receive custom orders, with a mold, multiple color swatches, and a complex custom cap construction specification, together with special density or texture requirements.

They are typically accompanied by a “Rush for Medical Client” request. At our factory, special hair and color artistes do this one-ofa-kind work and that takes extra time. It cannot be rushed. So ordering a custom wig for a chemotherapy client is really a disservice; she will likely start to lose her hair within 714 days from the start of treatment and well before that custom wig is completed.

Remember, dealing with cancer is not just about the treatments; it is also about dignity and confidence and that means maintaining your usual hairstyle and beauty. When a woman looks in the mirror and sees that she looks good, it can relieve her anxieties and help with her recovery.

Bottom line, none of us should expose a client to the risk of looking in the mirror and seeing that she is losing her hair and has nothing to wear because her custom-made wig is not ready. Take a tip from Barry and offer your chemotherapy clients a “custom experience” with a customized on-the-shelf product. If you do not have the in-house staff to make these adjustments or don’t have access to freelance sub-contractors, Follea can offer you these “customizing” resources in California with fast turn-around. Which ever option you select, don’t put you clients at risk when they need you most.

Michael Leigh is president of Follea, USA, headquartered in Beverly Hills, CA. Michael welcomes reader comments: Michael@Follea.com +1 310 858 0100.

13 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

12 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Sharing The Transition Way

(continued from pg.7)

become huge because you have a lower concentration of people. Open markets today include Seattle, Portland, Reno, Albuquerque, Santa Fe, San Antonio, Minneapolis / St. Paul, Oklahoma City and Kansas City, just to name a few.

Unfortunately, I occasionally get calls from people who would like to participate in Transitions who are quality hair replacement specialists, but they are located in an existing Transitions member’s territory and we have to say no.

NHJ: Does it force you to be very discriminating when you evaluate new applicants knowing that once a DMA is assigned, it’s gone for good?

GT: Yes. As the years have gone by our Membership requirements have gotten more discriminating, but that doesn’t mean it’s a ring of fire that you have to leap through. There’s a form on the Transitions website, www.transitionshair.com, designed just for potential members. It gives them a good insight into the world of Transitions and what it can offer them. If they want to proceed, they can fill out the application and the associated documents that go with it then send them to me. I share this data, confidentially, with our membership who evaluates the application. Ninety percent of the time we have members who know the applicant or studio and this can facilitate the process. Probably the largest percent of Transitions applicants come through referrals within the membership. They know people…they met someone at a wholesaler’s meeting…. they may have had a contact with someone because they had to refer a client to an open territory and this led to a working relationship. Referrals carry a lot of weight with Transitions members.

NHJ: Do you have overseas members?

GT: We’ve built a substantial group of international members. For obvious logistical reasons, it’s difficult for them to participate as fully as our North American members, but we have members in the Philippines, Australia, India, France, Germany, England, Mexico and we currently have four or five members in Canada.

NHJ: As Transitions grows and becomes more muscular; do you become a business prospect or a threat to the established wholesalers?

GT: I won’t say that either one of those describes the relationships we are maintaining with the wholesalers. First of all, most of our members work very closely with their favorite wholesalers.

We don’t want to jeopardize any of those relationships. The wholesalers are very good at what they do and we want their best products at the best prices we can negotiate. We want to have a very friendly co-existing relationship with all wholesalers because they are an integral part of this hair replacement society.

NHJ: Are your members optimistic about the future of the hair replacement market?

GT: We’re lucky to have access to a wide range of business experience within the Transitions group. Since there’s so much sharing among our members, we get a good feeling for what’s going

Transitions. So the bottom line is we offer a smorgasbord for them. We lay it out there and it’s up to them. When we feel certain programs are important, we may emphasize them with repeated presentations, but we go no further.

NHJ: You have a meeting coming up shortly.

What are some of the highlights of the meeting?

GT: (Speaking rapidly...) A large portion of the first day is going to be spent sharing “what’s working” in each Studio and we’ll be looking at generating leads from all sources including social media, Facebook and others, and finding ways to lower lead costs. We’re also going to be discussing ways to send creative and timely responses to their leads so they look professional right from the beginning and how to improving ongoing communications with existing clients. We will also be introducing a newsletter that the members can use…

NHJ: Do you want to pause and get your breath back...?

GT: (Pause) Thanks... These are just some of the things that are going to come up in the first three hours of the meeting. We’re not bringing in many outside experts, we’ve got so much experience in the group that we can develop tremendous ideas from within. But later in the meeting we have invited an outside company to talk to us about the latest search engine marketing platforms, telephone lead tracking and other sophisticated products. And we will be giving members a free DVD that has their customized letterhead on it, together with preprinted form letters that respond to a number of typical queries from potential clients.

Our members simply have to download this letter and send it back to the client.

NHJ: Any other guest speakers?

GT: The sales manager for HairMax is coming to talk to us about their newest product, the cordless handheld laser. We actually had the developer and creator of HairMax come to our last meeting to give us all the technical information. Now this gentleman is coming to explain how to market it and promote it using the correct language. We also have a professional coming in to talk about preparing to sell or transfer your business. We’re having a class on AfricanAmerican client service, presenting the development of a new 30-second laser commercial and a telephone lead contact program that helps analyze your customer database to determine what leads are of value and what action you should take. We’re also having a session on blogging, how to maintain your blog, how to set up your online marketing strategy and lead generation.

And last, we close out the meeting with a discussion on dhtSENSOR, which is our exclusive hair-loss reduction program. So that is a brief overview (laughs) of what will have happened by the time Hair Journal readers see this!

NHJ: You’re going to fit all this into two days?

GT: We keep busy. Our marketing meetings are held every six months, in May and November.

The membership picks the days and locations.

on in the marketplace. Those members who offer a wide range of products and programs are doing very well. They are the ones developing a sound, solid business in their territory. We have not seen any Transitions members we feel are fragile or losing ground in their marketplace, IF they are expanding their capabilities, offerings and interconnectivity with the modern marketplace.

Obviously, what Transitions is trying to do is to bring all of these components together at each meeting so members can take information back and implement what’s needed into their businesses. I should make it clear that our members are not franchisees, so there are no contracts other than their membership agreement, which implies, “I want to be a sharing member of Transitions.”

We don’t force members to participate in, or implement anything. They don’t have to accept any ideas or buy any programs. And they don’t have to purchase anything that’s created by

When we pick a location, it is typically in a city where we have an existing member. Our upcoming meeting is in St. Louis where our local member, the Hans Wiemann Company, will be our guest host. We set things up so there is ample time, not only for business, but for socializing as well. We go out to dinner as a group and then drop by the local member’s studio for dessert. It’s a lovely evening out, and yet it is all educationally based and we all learn from the experience.

NHJ: Have a great meeting and give our best regards to all everyone.

GT: We’ve covered a lot of ground. The key elements I hope readers will remember are; Transitions is nonprofit, it is owned and run by the membership, we’re able to generate marketing materials of all kinds, which keeps our costs down, and we are constantly bringing in new education for the membership. But, above all else, as I said before, the key to everything is sharing. NHJ

11 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

10 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

About

Leaders and Followers with Pierre Amelotte It is exactly one year since we last spoke with Pierre Amelotte, founder and President of PAI Medical Group. PAI firmly embraces the concept of cross marketing so it was no surprise that Pierre promptly talked about new technologies like light therapy and the benefits of medical/non-surgical relationships.

But the main thrust of this interview came in the closing moments when Pierre talked passionately about the importance of believing in yourself and the role of motivational CDs and videos in building confidence and vision; *we have included a short selection of titles Pierre recommends to Hair Journal readers at the end of this article.

N. Hair Journal: A lot has changed since we last met in Montreal. Bosley and MHR have merged.

P&G has bought Nioxin, OnRite has been sold to an overseas manufacturer and Unilever has just acquired Alberto Culver for US$3.7 billion. The personal care market is truly on the move. How are these changes affecting PAI? PierreAmelotte: Every change brings a new opportunity. We welcome change. For example, the introduction of lasers has been a great influence on the industry. It is a perfect companion to any hair addition or restoration program. Hairloss professionals today understand that they cannot offer only one product if they want their business to grow; they have to combine complementary services. I have just come back from Saint Louis where I met with Tim Pfeiffer, the owner of the Hans Wiemann center and PAI St. Louis. These people have put together an amazing operation. I believe they have something like 57 employees. It’s a brand new facility offering medical services, non-medical hair replacement and hair additions as well as laser light therapy.

In fact, the day that I was there I believe they were doing 141 laser patients that one day alone. So when I hear people say, “The industry is a little slow right now,” well yes it is for the old-timers, who do not want to change, but people who are innovative are reaping serious profits.

NHJ: You flagged several important trends. Firstly, if you stand still in today’s fast-changing environment, you’re going backwards. Secondly, technology is now shaping the market and light therapy is an example of a something that can provide a new profit opportunity.

PA: I’ve seen many new products and technologies over the past 25 years and some of the best ones were actually offshoots from another consumer need. A prime example is Propecia. It was originally made to shrink prostate glands, but a new opportunity arose when they discovered that an unexpected side effect was hair growth. And what did it do for us?

Propecia was not a competitor, it actually raised the awareness of hairloss and everyone benefited. Now look at lasers. They were originally used for wound healing and tissue repair. It took many years before clinical studies demonstrated that they also promoted hair growth. Today laser light therapy is an accepted modality that should be part of every hair clinic. If you want to be part of the future, you have to follow opportunities like these.

NHJ: You’ve talked about two different technologies; pharmacological hair-loss solutions and lowlevel laser light therapy. Each of these requires specialist expertise. Is it possible for an individual salon owner today to research and master these new technologies and still go about his usual business?

PA: Well, yes and no. There are a lot of salon owners who think they have that ability, but in reality are not ready to see the business through. They tell themselves, “I’d like to add laser” or “I’d like to add hair transplantation... I’d like to add hair additions,” but if they don’t do it properly right from the beginning, they’re only going to hurt themselves. They must have the expertise and the resources to follow though. It’s like the hair transplant business. It’s not an easy business; to succeed you need a game plan.

Take Bosley, they put years of study and hard work to build it up to where it is today. They’ve got a formula and they’ve got a strategy. Their success did not happen by accident. Even if you are a small operator, you’ve got to have a strategy.

NHJ: How about sharing the burden through some kind of marketing partnership?

PA: Makes sense, but there’s a big risk of getting

into the wrong relationships. It is easy to start associating yourself with people that sound impressive but do mediocre work, especially in the hair transplant field. Unfortunately, you won’t know until you either have unhappy clients or you have spent a lot of money.

NHJ: What makes a successful business leader?

PA: It’s not about the industry, it’s about the owner’s vision and commitment to progress. Take Follea, a company I admire very much. Michael Leigh is putting out phenomenal work today in the female hair loss market, and raising the image of this industry. The first thing I see when I open The Hair Journal is another glamorous Follea image. Who could fail to be impressed? Then there’s Jane Genesi, of J.A. Alternatives. She’s affiliated herself with Erwin Kupitz... and there’s a guy that’s got talent coming out of his ears. These people took the time to build a brand. Our responsibility is to raise the awareness of the hair industry and you do that by a quality product and quality communications.

When you bring the quality to the point where people don’t know if it is a hair transplant or a hair system; that’s when you know you’ve done a good job.

That’s how we grow our business.

NHJ: Your have given examples at the wholesale and manufacturing level. How does an individual retailer enhance her operation?

PA: First of all, she needs to do a simple market analysis. It is important to know what drives clients to you today, because that’s what defines your core values. Concentrate on what you are already doing well before you take on something new. Then look for superior products that fit your skill set. Know what’s working for others; talk to your colleagues in the industry, and read the National Hair Journal; it’s one of your best sources of information. I learned years ago, if you really want to know how to go to the top, find out who’s at the top today and emulate what they did. But be prepared to put in the time and effort. Success doesn’t come overnight. Take the Hans Wiemann Clinic, it’s easy to say, “This place is amazing, it’s over 10,000-square-feet and really humming!” But it didn’t happen overnight; over 40 years of dedication went into building it.

NHJ: Where is PAI headed in 2011?

PA: PAI is forward-looking. Our mindset is that change is good, change is invigorating and change makes the pulse quicken. However, it also costs money to change things so our development is closely analyzed every step of the way. PAI’s mission has been two-pronged for many years. Firstly, we perform the micro-level improvements that define the way we meet and exceed patient expectations. The second prong is strategic growth. We engage in discussions with independent clinics that are already performing hair transplant services and want to build on the success they currently enjoy.

NHJ: How many corporate and associate offices are there in the PAI network?

PA: We currently have 14 associates and own two of them.

NHJ: Do all of these facilities share your philosophy of offering multiple services?

PA: Yes, they do. They all offer a medical and nonmedical approach.

NHJ: How do you identify and evaluate candidates

who apply to be part of your group.

PA: The first step is to examine the market that they’re currently in, the demographics and population trends. This will determine whether they have the basis for a facility offering the full range of services we promote.

NHJ: Is your prime prospect a non-surgical center that knows it has to offer medical services or a doctor who’s saying, “I was not taught marketing at medical school. I need professional marketing resources?”

PA: I’m glad you’re asking me that question. Nonmedical people who are looking to add hair transplantation recognize the value of bringing in a group like PAI Medical Group. Over the last three years I’ve met with a lot of hair transplant physicians who have been operating clinics but now want marketing help to grow their business. I admire these doctors because it has taken them years to complete their medical training and also acquire hair transplant skills, however many of them don’t have the business acumen to sustain on-going growth in the long term.

The model we provide is to let physicians do what they do best, and that’s the actual physical hair transplantation work, while we provide the mechanism or the mechanics of generating new business.

NHJ: You’ve talked about the importance of cross marketing, but so far we’ve only talked about hair.

Do you think our market actually goes beyond hair into the other cosmetic procedures?

PA: I want to say yes, but each state has different state laws on what can be done and what can’t be done. That said, I still believe the hair business itself has a lot of growth potential. It’s a major image definer for every person.

NHJ: Looking at a few new technologies, tell us if these are logical candidates for expansion. Let’s start with eyelash extensions...

PA: For eyelashes, a prescription treatment called Latisse seems to offer promising results. We already offer eyebrow hair transplantation, but it’s a lot of specialized work for modest returns. We don’t see a lot of growth potential, at least in the short term.

NHJ: What about hair extensions? It’s surprising how few salons offer them.

PA: Not every salon can do this because it is time consuming and requires special skills, but the demand is there, let’s face it.

NHJ: What has your experience been with laser therapy?

PA: I can’t say enough positive things about it. For our hair transplant clients, we have noticed that their hair grows in twice as fast after laser light therapy.

The other thing I’ve noticed is people on a good laser program experience a reduction in hair loss. Is it bio-photostimulation that’s creating this or the placebo effect? I anecdotally believe the laser itself stimulates hair growth, primarily in the crown areas. It works for males and females. We’ve seen the benefits in all the PAI Medical facilities that offer laser.

NHJ: If we were having this conversation at the end of 2011 what would have changed?

PA: I’m seeing changes every time I flip through the pages of the Hair Journal. Fashion and styling is more important than ever as the women’s market continues to grow. Follea and EFT have raised the quality bar in non-medical hair restoration. I do

believe that we have to start looking beyond our borders to new and emerging economies where we can extend our experience and knowledge for seeking new and significant opportunities.

NHJ: Will the consumer be different in 12 month’s time?

PA: I don’t think so. Better informed perhaps, but the fundamental needs are not going to change.

Never have.

NHJ: We would like to finish the interview on an upbeat note, what words of encouragement would you like to share with Hair Journal readers?

PA: This has been my motto from day one; the most important thing any business owner can do, is to improve his and her way of thinking. I don’t care what business it is, there are always going to be the leaders and followers. If you look closely at the leaders, they’re really no different from the followers, but they’ve got an innate belief in what they do and bring energy and positiveness to the business that drives it forward. So my message is don’t work harder on your business, work harder on your thinking. How do you do this? Start reading the books on successful people; start listening to educational CDs in your car on a daily basis. There’s so much information that’s out there that’s going to create positive energy in that person’s mind that’s going to attract the business. Because you don’t build business, you attract business. And you attract it by who you are and what you think... and this is defined by what you read and whom you associate with.

Become the best you can be by learning from and associating with the most successful people out there today.

NHJ: Last time we met was the evening we discovered Sambuca Dark in the Cigar Lounge in Beverly Hills. Will you be coming to California again soon so we can do it again?

PA: There is nothing I would love better. I’m going to be in Europe for the next two weeks on business, but I promise to call as soon as I get back. Keep up the Spirit!

PAI, which is the abbreviation of Pierre Amelotte International, was founded by Pierre in 1985. After 8 years in the non-medical hair loss business, Pierre realized that there could be significant potential for success from merging hair transplantation with hair systems.

Today, PAI Medical Group is a leading North American and internationally recognized medical management company specializing in hair transplantation procedures. It currently has fourteen licensed locations in the US and Canada, performing Multi-Unit Hair Grafting™, with plans to expand to new locations.

Pierre’s reading suggestions: Good to Great by Jim Collins Winning by Jack Welch Four Seasons: The Story of a Business Philosophy by Isadore Sharp The Missing Secret by Joe Vitale Success is Your Own Damn Fault by Larry Winget How To Have Your Best Year Ever by Jim Rohn When I Stop, You’ll Know I’m Dead by Jerry Weintraub Outliers by Malcom Gladwell Call Me Ted by Ted Turner NHJ Think Like a Champ by Donald Trump.

9 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010 EK: I’ve worked with John Voigt on many movies and one day, he asked me to make wigs for his daughter, Angelina Jolie. She was 18 or 19 at the time and already a rising star. Angelina used them in the movies “Gia” and “Girl Interrupted.” Later, I created another wig for “Gone in Sixty Seconds” that I was really proud of. It was a challenge because the directors wanted a pale blonde look and her natural color is dark brown. But if you’ve seen the movie, I think you’ll agree it came out great. I did many movies with Angelina Jolie and I worked with many other wonderful female actresses as well, like Katherine Zeta Jones, Sarah Michelle Gellar, and Shirley McLaine, to name a few.

NHJ: You have talked about all the great stuff. Do you have any horror stories to prove you are human like the rest of us?

EK: Stuff always happens! Take Gene Hackman for example. In the old movie days it was common to make at least one or maybe a two backup wigs to avoid last minute emergencies.

A leading actor or actress could have as many as 4 or 5 wigs depending on the number of shooting days and how he had to look in the movie. On this occasion, Gene Hackman was the second leading man and we would need two hairpieces for him, but the second one wasn’t required right away. We had a couple of weeks to make it. On the second day of shooting, I got a phone call asking how far along I was on the second piece. One of the lamps had exploded on the set and a spark had struck the top of Gene’s hairpiece and it now had a hole the size of a quarter! Could I fix it? I immediately replied, “No, not on the top! We’ll have to switch pieces.” So they revised the shooting schedule and we worked day and night to get the second wig ready. We were all exhausted, but filming went ahead and Gene looked fine.

NHJ: Erwin you had the privilege of perfecting your craft under the guidance of masters like Ziggy. Do you feel a responsibility to pass on your own skills to the next generation?

EK: One generous deed deserves another. There are several people I have helped to get into the movie industry. One of them is a young guy in Los Angeles whose name I will keep private. He is a makeup artist and he ventilated for me for a while. I told him that he should try and build his skills as a makeup artist with a view to becoming a wig specialist. He told me later that following this advice was the smartest thing he ever did. He said that if he had just relied on make up, he would still be standing in line looking for work like everyone else.

There are 2,000 people in the union and not enough movies to keep everyone busy. Now he makes wigs, travels widely, and has two different sources of income. He makes more money creating wigs than applying makeup. There are many young people who have the illusion that working in the entertainment industry is having coffee with some big star and living a life of glamour. This young man wasn’t like this, and he reminded me a bit of myself. He understood that it takes time to build skills and he was ready to make that commitment. I am happy to pass on my knowledge and ethics to a new generation, but even happier to be sharing a lifetime of experience with ordinary men and women seeking an artistic solution to their thinning hair problems.

EK: The procedure is very simple. Everything I do is based on the philosophy that I am not trying to cover up what is missing but to replace what was once there. The client needs to understand that. It makes no sense to give someone with fine hair a full head of thick hair.

You have to approach it artistically. You need years of training and experience to recreate something that has been lost and make it look natural. What makes us different is we take that artistic detail to the production line.

NHJ: Are there really professional secrets in the world of Hollywood that regular hair replacement technicians don’t know?

EK: These are completely different fields. You can learn technique, but if you do not have an artistic feeling you will never be a great artist. Artistic abilities cannot be taught. Artistry is the basis of everything I do. I’ve put my entire life into it and it shows in my clients’ hair.

NHJ: What is the most common mistake you see in a mass produced hair system?

EK: The wrong material, in the wrong spot, with the wrong hair and the wrong design. You may have good hair or quality material, but without vision and experience, they mean nothing. The challenge is bringing all the elements together artistically. There are few people who can ventilate as precisely as the Koreans or Chinese, but this skill is not enough without artistic vision.

NHJ: How do you feel about telling clients they need to replace their hair systems every two three or four months? It never used to be that way.

EK: Everyone today demands a more natural look. That means hair systems have to be lightweight, and that means more fragile. The heavier the base, the longer it lasts, but then you need to add more hair to cover the base. The thinner you make the base, the less hair you put in, and the more natural it looks, but the base doesn’t last as long. Compare it to a cotton shirt and a fine woven silk shirt. Wash the silk shirt in hot water and it’s history. The cotton shirt is more durable, but it will never feel the same or move like the silk shirt. Now let’s look at EHK and some lessons we learned from the movie industry. Firstly, the way we put the materials together is different. EHK has a very thin base, but our design has the ability to stretch so it keeps its shape and it is more durable. This is such a new concept I had to go to Asia to teach them how to use these materials.

NHJ: Does hair really change someone’s appearance and personality? Can you give an example from the movies?

EK: A good example is “Catch Me If You Can” with Leonardo DiCaprio. Everybody knows how Leonardo looks. In the movie we had to capture his appearance at different times in his life, the 1940’s, 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s right up to the point in the movie where he was caught and finally escaped. When the storyline changes throughout the movie like that, it is a huge challenge to evolve the character without anyone noticing. The changes we made to

Secretariat (2010) (wig maker);Jonah Hex (2010);Henri 4 (2010) (wig maker);Solomon Kane (2009) (wig maker);Brüno (2009) (wig maker);The Taking of Pelham 1 2 3 (2009) (facial hair pieces);Obsessed (2009) (wig maker);Star Trek (2009) (wig maker);Hilde - the Hildegard Knef Story (2009) (wig maker);Babylon A.D. (2008) (wig maker: principals);Tarragona - Ein Paradies in Flammen (2007) (TV) (wig maker);What Love Is (2007) (hair consultant);March of Millions (2007) (TV) (wig maker);Epic Movie (2007) (wig maker); Perfume: The Story of a Murderer (2006) (wig maker: Dustin Hoffman);Hollywoodland (2006) (wigmaker);Dresden - A City in Flames (2006) (TV) (wig maker);Find Me Guilty (2006) (wig fabrication: Mr. Diesel);The Pink Panther (2006) (wigmaker: Beyoncé Knowles);Rumor Has It... (2005) (wig maker: Shirley Mclaine);The Weather Man (2005) (wig maker);“Six Feet Under” (wig maker) (various episodes, 20012005);Sin City (2005) (wig maker);Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Unfortunate Events (2004) (wigs and beards maker) ;National Treasure (2004) (wig maker);White Chicks (2004) (wig maker);The Assassination of Richard Nixon (2004) (wig maker);Scooby Doo 2: Monsters Unleashed (2004) (wig designer);Starsky & Hutch (2004) (wig maker - facial hair );The Lion in Winter (2003) (TV) (wig designer); “One Bad Trip” (2003) TV series (wig maker);Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World (2003) (facial hair

the hair had to reflect DiCaprio at that moment in time, his age, his wardrobe, lifestyle and personality. He was always the same guy, just at different times of his life. In contrast, when you see “Austin Powers’ Gold Member,” Mike Meyers plays 3 different characters. Everybody knows it is Mike Meyers and everybody loves the fact that he plays 3 different characters because it enhances the story. But each role has its character and a distinctive hairstyle. It’s a completely different concept from “Catch Me If You Can.” NHJ: What other stars have you transformed for a movie role?

EK: I worked on “Enemy Of The State” with Gene Hackman. This was a challenging experience. He was known as the guy with the comb-over, and in the parts he played in movies this always worked. But for “Enemy of the State”, the director had different ideas and wanted Gene to wear a hair replacement. Gene hated the idea and told everyone it wasn’t going to work and he didn’t want anyone to shave his head. The director wanted him to have bleached white-blonde hair and a spiked up hairpiece. That’s when I got involved. I told the director that everybody knows how Gene Hackman looks, so if you have to change him, you have to make it subtle. I recommended a hair color close to Gene’s original hair color; that meant gray, not snow-white like a 95-year-old man. In the end I made a hair replacement for Gene that is very similar to today’s EHK line.

NHJ: If we remember correctly Erwin, you once made beard stubble for Brad Pitt for the movie “Fight Club.”

EK: This is a fairly commonly used technique. Most good makeup artists know how to do this. You chop hair very short, rolling it up in a ball in your hand. Then you pull the ball apart very quickly. Because of the friction of the pulling, the hair in the area being separated stands straight out. When you put this hair gently onto an adhesive it will stick up like a grown beard and not lie flat on the face. It will appear three dimensional on camera just like beard stubble.

NHJ: What female stars have you worked with?

maker);Beyond Borders (2003/I) (wig maker: Angelina jolie);Catch Me If You Can (2002) (wig designer: Leonardo DiCaprio);Chicago (2002) (wig maker);Gangs of New York (2002) (wig designer: Leonardo DiCaprio (Re- Shoot);Frida (2002) (wig designer);Austin Powers in Goldmember (2002) (wig & facial hair designer);Claim (2002) (wig maker: Argentina, shooting part); Scooby-Doo (2002) (wig designer); Door to Door (2002) (TV) (wig maker: William H. Macy); “Star Trek: Voyager” (wig designer) (169 episodes, 1995-2001);The Cell (2000) (wig maker);“Profiler” (wig maker) (80 episodes, 1996-2000); Gone in Sixty Seconds (2000) (wig maker: Angelina jolie);Geppetto (2000) (TV) (wig maker); The Beach Boys: An American Family (2000) (TV) (wig designer);Lover’s Prayer (2000) (wig maker);The Big Tease (1999) (makeup artist & specialty wig designer); “Cleopatra” (1999) TV mini-series (wig maker);Noah’s Ark (1999) (TV) (wigs: Mr. Voight);The Thirteenth Floor (1999) (wig designer); Ed -tv (1999) (special wigs designer); “Buffy the Vampire Slayer” (makeup artist, wig designer) (all episodes -wig designer), 1999); In Dreams (1999) (wig maker: Ms. Benning); The Mask of Zorro (1998) (wigs and facial hair: Antonio Banderas); Johnny Skidmarks (1998) (wig maker);Titanic (1997) (wig maker: Billy Zane) ;Masterminds (1997) (facial hair designer);Buddy (1997) (facial hair and hair goods);Back in Business (1997) (wig designer);City of Industry (1997) (makeup artist and facial hair);Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery (1997) (wig designer);Grace of My Heart (1996) (wig designer);Andersonville (1996) (TV) (wig and makeup master); Dracula: Dead and Loving It (1995) (wig maker); A Walk in the Clouds (1995) (wig designer);In Search of Dr. Seuss (1994) (TV) (hair stylist);Forrest Gump (1994) (facial hair maker);“Star Trek: The Next Generation” (wig maker) (40 episodes, 1993-1994); “Star Trek: Deep Space Nine” (wig maker) (28 episodes, 1993); Star Trek: Voyager (wig designer) (all episodes) ;“Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman” (1993) TV series NHJ (wig and beard designer) many Episodes.

Filmography:

8 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

Hollywood Artistry with Erwin H. Kupitz Do a Google search for “Erwin Kupitz, Wigmaker” and in less than 20 seconds you will be presented with 801 results. Dig a little deeper, and you discover that Erwin has been nominated for 2 primetime Emmy’s. Read his filmography and you’ll find that he was working behind the scenes on most of your favorite movies and with some of the most famous names in Hollywood (see footnote). Here’s what one director had to say, “We were really lucky: we had this maestro who made three miraculously good wigs... The wig issue is the kind of problem that gives producers ulcers and this <film> was a logistical nightmare. Producer Richard Keddie found his options limited to a narrow window of opportunity. There was only one morning when Dusseldorf-based wigmaker Erwin Kupitz, Oscar-winning make-up artist Paul Pattison, who’s based in Greece, and Roxburgh, then living in the Italian Alps, were all available to meet in Milan to consult about the make-up and measure the actor’s head for a plaster cast.” If film directors had known about Erwin for many years, it’s only recently that the general public has been able to benefit from his extraordinary talent.

Jane Genesi, founder and president of JA Alternatives, a hair replacement group located in the North East of the country, tracked Erwin down and asked him a simple question, “Why should movie stars and the super-wealthy be the only people to have access to this high level of work?” Erwin’s answer can be found in the sophisticated EHK (Erwin H. Kupitz) designs he created specially for J.A. Alternatives’ clients.

Erwin told The National Hair Journal that today he gets more satisfaction changing the lives of ordinary hairloss clients, than anything he has done.

NHJ: Erwin, you have worked with some of the most glamorous stars in the entertainment world.

You have a career that other people can only dream about. How did this all come about?

EK: If somebody had told me when I was 14 yrs old that one day I would become a famous wig maker; I would have told them they were crazy. Back then all I wanted was to be to be a makeup artist. In Germany where I grew up, a makeup artist was the person who made an actor optically ready for his or her performance. They were responsible for everything; body-hair, top-hair, facehair, as well as makeup and prosthetics. It took six years of intensive training to learn these skills.

In Eastern Germany it was even more demanding; my business partner had to go to university for an extra 3 years to study art just to become what we call a “Maskenbildner.” (Mask -Maker) NHJ: So you started out in the world of makeup not wig making?

EK: In Germany, you have to follow a long program that covers many techniques and procedures including hair styling. You can’t just say you want to be a makeup artist and do nothing else. It doesn’t work that way. You have to acquire a broad range of skills. For example, you have to complete a full 3-year apprenticeship before you can open a salon. You can then choose to continue with your master’s degree or pursue a different career. If you want to become a makeup artist, or mask builder, it’s an even more demanding process. You have to qualify as a hair stylist first, then learn makeup, then wigs, then prosthetics. At this point, you have to pass four more examinations, followed by two final examinations and only then are you finally an official “Maskenbildner.” This allows you to work for any opera, theatrical or entertainment company, TV or movie studio. Without that licence you could only work in the theater as a theatrical hair stylist with very little to advance your career. So as you can see this is a very serious business. It’s a completely different system to other countries.

NHJ: You said you didn’t want to be a wig maker when you were young, but that’s not how things worked out. What changed your mind?

EK: As a kid, I wanted to decorate showcases and windows in department stores. We lived in a small village, but when I traveled with my parents to Cologne and Bonn and saw the huge windows at Christmas time and how beautifully they were decorated, I was completely captivated! We didn’t have things like this in our little grocery store. From that moment on all I wanted to do was to decorate department store windows. I was about 12 years old at the time.

Then one day my father, who worked in Cologne, brought home the local newspaper. It had a special entertainment column and every day it introduced a different department of the local opera, which included things like the bal-

let, costumes, makeup and hair. One day there was a makeup column and I read about a 15 year old boy who had been transformed into an American Indian with a Mohawk using special makeup and hairstyling. I thought that was amazing and right away my goals changed. I wanted to transform people just like that.

NHJ: You were now 13 years old. What was your next step?

EK: It wasn’t easy. I found out that you have to start by learning to become a hair stylist. In Germany, there is a saying, if you are not bright enough to learn anything decent, then you work as a bartender or become a hair stylist. So this was not a career that my parents wanted me to pursue.

But I went ahead anyway. It took me about 3 years to learn the basics and get my stylist licence.

During that time, I applied to many theatres. The theatre where I finally got a job was 350 kilometers away from my hometown. I was the youngest person in training at that time. In my first examination as a certified hair stylist, I came in second out of 35 apprentices, which wasn’t bad considering I was still only 17 years old. When I took my second examination for makeup, at the age of 20, I was again the youngest student. I remember my instructor telling me, “You are the last student I trained and the first one that will not pass.” Not very encouraging words! I passed and was the third best. These early successes got me into the biggest opera company in Germany, the Munich State Opera. From there, my career took me all over Europe, the Vienna State Opera, the Munich State Theatre, TV shows, movies and I finally ended up in Hollywood. CA. NHJ: Hollywood; you make it sound like an easy step but it is extremely difficult to get into Hollywood. How did you do it?

EK: That’s a longer story. I had only worked in Europe, but I felt I needed experience in the United States. I was now 22 years old and ambitious and I felt the draw of Hollywood. Shortly after my arrival in the US, I had the good fortune to be introduced to Ziggy and his wife and they put me in contact with the right people. Ziggy was the big wig maker in the 60’s 70’s and 80’s and he worked with stars from Michael Jackson to Elizabeth Taylor to Dianna Ross. His real name is Siegfried Geike, but in America he calls himself Ziggy. I found out that in Hollywood everyone is highly specialized so I had to make up my mind whether to be a makeup artist or a wig maker. I chose wig maker. Back home, I’d received some of the best basic training in the world and people were noticing. Skills like these were rare in Hollywood and within six months I became quite well known.

NHJ: The thing that excited you as a child was the magical effect in holiday shop windows. Now you are creating a different kind of magic, transforming actors for their movie roles.

EK: It was everything I had ever dreamed of. Things have evolved of course, but it’s still a magical world. In the old days, every movie had a specialist covering every field, from costumes, to makeup, to hair, and props with everything coordinated by an art director. Wigs were made for the actors and carefully viewed and tested by the studios and producers. Nobody does that anymore.

Now they have Photoshop. The mystery of filmmaking is being lost. In the old days, the idea was to create an illusion and we did not reveal our secrets outside our inner circle.

NHJ: You have now taken your art to the consumer market and you are sharing those years of training to help regular folk. How did this come about?

EK: It was a natural development. I was approached by Jane Genesi to help her clients. The time was right for me to reach out to a broader audience. If she had contacted me six years earlier, I probably wouldn’t have been interested. But today, I am glad I did because I had no idea how life changing a really good hair replacement is for people who have an illness such as cancer or alopecia. If I can give them a quality hair replacement and help them live a normal life then that is a big thrill for me. In Hollywood, if one of my celebrity clients asks me for a blond wig to be ready in three days for example, they pay me generously for it. Then they call me back and want another one in brown because they have the financial means. But most of Jayne’s clients don’t have that financial background. They contact me, because they trust me to create something artistically perfect that will make them feel and look like they used to - and that is a huge responsibility. When I see how I can make a difference in those people’s lives, that’s my biggest thrill.

NHJ: What do you do differently compared with what those clients were getting before?

EK: I cannot go into all the details but the simple answer is artistry and an obsession for detail.

Just about everything in the mass market today is designed by a factory overseas, most likely in Asia. These people have probably never seen a Caucasian person; never had classical training and none of them have an artistic approach. They are factory people. They just think of each order as a product. I see it as a person with a life and friends and dreams.

NHJ: What steps do you follow to get the insights you need to create something this personal for your customers?

7 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010 NHJ: We were talking earlier about the marketplace becoming more complex. In the old days that you alluded to, not only were leads more affordable, but the services provided were more simple and straightforward. Are your members concerned that the marketplace now is too complex and that today you have to have medical, technical, and pharmaceutical knowledge as well as a skills as a cosmetologist?

GT: The membership is highly aware of the changes. Transitions explores all of these different possibilities and tries to get the latest information and disseminate it amongst the members so that they can understand and implement it. They recognize that evolving guarantees the long-term success of their business; they need to offer as many hair replacement options their space will allow.

So your comments are exactly right. We need to expand the base and have many different solutions available to the consumer.

NHJ: Let’s take an example; a salon that has been offering non-surgical hair replacement exclusively but is now aware that it needs to offer hair transplantation as well? How can you help them research medical hair restoration so they understand the process and the requirements? And, secondly, if they wanted to go ahead and create a medical relationship with a local clinic or even establish their own medical facility, how could Transitions help them?

GT: We have obviously built a tremendously “connected” base of retailers in the Transitions group, and these retailers have relationships with some of the best transplant doctors out there. We also have members whose business model already includes medical services. Because of these connections, our members can quickly find and develop a relationship with transplant doctors. At our upcoming group meeting, we will be presenting a proposal from a world-renowned transplant doctor who wishes to offer his services to Transitions members who don’t currently have a connection with a surgeon. I should make it clear however, that Transitions International Group was formed as a non-medical group, so we’re happy to make introductions and share information, but it’s up to individual members to create their own medical relationships.

NHJ: Do you bring other outside experts to your meetings to share their knowledge and insights?

GT: It’s something that happens at every meeting. Now Transitions has grown into the membership that it currently has, a number of experts have begun to contact us directly before they have shared the information with anyone else. This can be information for the non-surgical side, the surgical side or it can be about laser and hair treatments.

NHJ: The Journal is in the process of transcribing an interview with Steve DiManni, who is a Madison Avenue creative director. He contends that the industry does not do sufficient consumer research and its marketing programs tend to be based on what worked in the past, not on consumer attitudes today. Does Transitions conduct consumer research?

GT: Not as such. As you know, in the Hair Loss Council days, we did some consumer research studies. But Transitions has not yet done the kind of research you’re alluding to. But remember, at each meeting we have some 3,000 years of experience in the room, and we get a very strong handle on what I call modern marketing and social media.

NHJ: How do Transitions members access your creative material? Is there a pool of commercials they can dip into?

GT: When we build a product – let’s say we’re building a print product that the membership has asked for, maybe a flagship brochure – we do the initial development and show it to the membership. The membership then approves or rejects this design. They don’t have to buy it. But if they decide that they like it, they buy into it and we customize it with their logo, web address and phone numbers. It looks like it is their own marketing material. We make these materials available at cost, so you simply take the cost to develop and print the brochure, and divide it by the number of members that are buying it, and that’s the price the membership gets the product for.

NHJ: It is straightforward to estimate the cost of things like a brochure, but how do you price something like a social media campaign or a web-marketing program?

GT: Some members who have been in business for a long time are having a tough time adjusting to the new media, but we have a technical IT person who works with us and has probably generatTransitions International was founded by a group of forward looking hair replacement and restora- ed half the websites of the Transitions members. He is a great resource. One of the big benefits tion centers that came together to pool resources and jointly develop new marketing programs to Transitions members receive are links and total interconnection to our four websites, which helps grow their businesses. Each member was allocated an exclusive market area and had the sole to drive consumers to their own studio websites. Our consumer website is www.iwanthair.com. right to utilize Transitions support programs in that territory. This concept remains the foundation Then we have our men’s website, www.sensigraft.com and we’re working on a women’s website, of the group to this day. Greg Taylor is responsible for the day-to-day operation of Transitions and www.reallusions.com. We also have a website for our exclusive hair-loss prevention program called www.dhtsensor.com. All these websites have been professionally produced and are interwe asked him to explain how the group operates and what benefits it brings to its members. connected with all of our members’ websites so when a consumer searches in any of these cateNational Hair Journal: Greg, for readers who do not know about Transitions, takes us back to gories, our websites are listed high on the page rankings. And if the consumer fills out a request for more information, it is handled automatically and forwarded to the nearest Transitions membasics. How did Transitions come about, why was it formed, by whom, and to do what?

Greg Taylor: If you go back about 20 years, wholesalers were starting to develop marketing and ber. All this is included at no extra charge, it’s all part of the low Transitions membership dues. advertising programs for their customers, but you had to be affiliated with specific wholesalers to NHJ: Is there a common denominator among Transitions members - the size of their facility or access their material. So a group of hair replacement specialists in North America joined together their attitude towards growing their business? and incorporated the Transitions International Group as a way to pool resources and develop their GT: The sizes of the locations vary dramatically. Transitions includes some of the largest hair replaceown marketing materials at a very inexpensive price. That’s how Transitions started, but it’s grown ment centers in the United States, and we have some very small ones with only two or three employees. well beyond that. For the first seven or eight years, the group stayed at about 17 to 23 members. We’re not looking for the biggest studio in a market area. We’re looking for what we think is the best There was a lot of socializing and sharing of ideas and some marketing materials were created, but studio, the most involved retailer, and one who wants to grow into the future. And those people, obvithere was very little infrastructure to design and build professional materials. But they learned on the ously, are looking for us, too. Regarding their attitudes…most of our members are excited about the future and keeping up job and started getwith the all the ting better. I became changes in the mara member about six ketplace. It’s their months after attitudes that bind us was Transitions together. When we all formed, and was a get together every six member for a long months, there is this time before becomunbelievable sharing ing president of the of ideas and concepts. group, and ultimateWe have a section ly, moved into the built into every meetadministrator posiing called, “What’s tion, where I remain Working?” And the today. As the group members themselves grew, we were able to direct this session. expand our capabiliThey get up and share ties and the offerings tips and marketing to the membership. ideas with the other was Transitions members, something founded as a nonthat could not happen profit organization, at any other sort of and it continues that meeting because each way today. It is run Transitions member by the membership has their own excluthrough a board of sive market area directors, and the products and services Transition’s Board receiving recognition, on behalf of the Membership, for their toy donation to Friends of Kids with Cancer. (L to R - Dennis Murphy, Scott McCarty, Dave Barker, (DMA) so they don’t have to worry that the that we generate and Virg Christoffels, Ed Gawerecki, Alicia Stevens (President), Judy Ciapcek (Executive Director of Friends of Kids with Cancer) and Greg Taylor (Transitions Administrator) shared information is supply are directly requested by the membership and then developed and presented by the board of directors and the being passed on to their direct competitor.

NHJ: There is a page on your website labeled “Exclusive Designated Market Areas.” How does administrator.

Transitions’ DMA system work?

NHJ: What services do your members request most? What is uppermost in their minds?

GT: The thing that’s changed most over the years is the ability to generate the lead flow you GT:Transitions members occupy the shaded market areas, and the white areas are the ones that are curneed to be successful. Many of us remember the good old days when you placed an ad and rently open. We invite applicants that are willing to share their experience and knowledge with the you received lots of calls. Your lead cost was maybe $5 or $10. That obviously doesn’t exist group, want to learn and grow and who feel they offer quality products and services. anymore. We’ve also seen a flattening of the men’s market over the last eight to ten years NHJ: So there is room for growth? so our membership is looking for assistance and direction on generating new business, and, GT: There is definitely room for growth. We have several open territories. If you look at the (continued on pg. 12) Western half the United States, the DMA market areas obviously new leads are of paramount importance.

Sharing The Transitions Way An interview with Greg Taylor

6 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

An Even Newer Image It’s all about vision, says Tony Sciara

New Image is one of the top hair addition companies in the world. Located in fashionable West Palm Beach, the company traces its roots back to 1964 when Kae and Leslie Martin founded First Lady, Canada’s largest men’s and ladies’ hair replacement retailer. New Image itself was formed as a US co--mpany in 1981 and shortly thereafter relocated from New Jersey to West Palm Beach, FL where it still operates today. The company offers men’s and women’s hair replacement products, hair extensions and accessory products, as well as advanced education services through New Image University. Tony Sciara succeeded Randy Martin as president in 1999, following Randy’s untimely death in a tragic traffic accident. Randy is remembered every year through the Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award given to a professional who displays the same zeal and imagination that made Randy so admired in the industry. Tony divides his time between the company’s Florida headquarters and Hong Kong where he directs the research and production programs that are pivotal to New Image’s operations. We spoke with Tony shortly after the company’s annual Sales Conference where he announced a new online education program at New Image University.

N.H. Journal (NHJ): New Image is one of the leaders in non-surgical hair replacement. What does it take to lead in today’s market?

Tony Sciara (TS): You have to keep looking into the future. It’s not what happened; it’s what’s going to happen that’s important in a company. You must be able to envision the direction in which the company should be heading.

NHJ: We see the economy recovering at the moment. How is New Image positioning itself for 2011?

TS: We’re very positive about the future. The industry has leveled off over the last couple of years. We haven’t seen any of our customers having to close their doors, which is very positive news. Going forward over the next five years, I feel that the market outlook is strong.

NHJ: In the past, when the economy was soft, we saw customers seeking higher quality products. They were not looking for cut-price products; they just wanted the best possible value for their money. Is that what you’ve experienced with your customers?

TS: Definitely. Program selling, as you’re well aware, has taken a step back; the consumer has been looking for a better quality product; a more consistent product.

NHJ: What steps has New Image taken to improve its product quality?

TS: We’ve always been proud of our product quality over the years, but the market has become more demanding for all the reasons we’ve just discussed and because of the younger clientele coming into the shops. To meet this demand, we’ve introduced better materials, improved the processing of hair, and we’re constantly working to deliver a consistent product for our buyers.

NHJ: New Image is unique in that its top executive spends a major part of his time in Asia. In fact, you are based in Hong Kong. What competitive advantage does this give you?

TS: It allows us to control our chain of supply.

Our role in the market is to provide consistently high-quality products with the most recent technologies built into them.

NHJ: We’ve published a number of articles in the past about the shortage of quality human hair worldwide. Is this a source of concern?

TS: Yes, it continues to be. The source of supply continues to be challenged, and for that reason we have developed a new technology, a man-made hair called Biolon. We have just

introduced it on the market.

NHJ: Is man-made hair going to figure more prominently in our future?

TS: Yes. We’ve been working on this initiative for well over 12 years. At one point we abandoned it because it was very difficult to replicate the movement, softness and feel of real hair. It was quite a challenge, but we feel with Biolon we have achieved it. We’re putting a lot of effort behind the Biolon product line and you’re going to be seeing some great things coming in the future.

NHJ: What would you say to a client who says, “My customers demand human hair; they think that’s the best”?

TS: Well, in some respects they’re right. If you can get consistent quality, especially in the longer lengths, then human hair is the way to go. But long human hair for ladies is becoming very challenging. This is where the weakness of human hair starts to show, especially when you get into light colors, or chemical perming. With a product like Biolon on the other hand, the customer is guaranteed a product that’s consistent. She will know from one purchase to the next that her hair will act and feel exactly the same.

NHJ: Let’s talk about men. At what point does it make sense for a man to convert to Biolon?

TS: Biolon is a good option for men also, but it’s more suited for ladies because of the color range. There’s another thing to consider too; most men are wearing permanent attachments and human hair still has the best characteristics to withstand all that wear and tear on the hair.

So we’re combining Biolon with human hair to give men the best of both worlds.

NHJ: Let’s talk about the features of Biolon?

Obviously tensile strength is superior.

TS: Yes. NHJ: What about light reflection? It used to be that synthetic hair had that brittle light

reflection. Has that been solved?

TS: You’re correct. That’s why our first challenge with Biolon was to replicate the size of Caucasian hair. Biolon has exactly the same denier as regular Caucasian hair. The next step was to develop a color range that would satisfy the fashion demands in today’s market.

Thirdly, it had to have the tensile strength, the movement, and the feel of real hair when a woman is out dancing or on the beach. We wanted her to have the same feeling she would enjoy with human hair.

NHJ: Returning briefly to light reflection, does it still have that plastic look, or will it reflect light like cuticle hair?

TS: We’ve completely eliminated the shine you’re mentioning, but Biolon retains a subtle gloss to make it look like healthy hair.

NHJ: And what about texture and curl retention?

TS: Biolon will keep a curl for two to three weeks.

NHJ: Does it absorb moisture like human hair, or will it separate when hair is wet?

TS: It performs exactly like human hair; it will absorb water and also repel water once it dries.

NHJ: You talked about hair length a few minutes ago. Is Biolon available in a range of longer lengths?

TS: It’s available in any length you want.

NHJ: So this is the future?

TS: That’s how we see it at New Image. Biolon is the future, together with human hair for certain applications.

NHJ: Let’s talk about customer support. There are three things necessary to be successful in this business: technical skills, having the right product, and having the artistry and the talent to use the first two wisely. New Image has put a lot of effort into its New Image University.

What’s the philosophy behind that?

TS: We’ve always felt strongly about maintain-

ing a high skill level in our customers’ salons.

At our conference in our October, we launched a new initiative, NIU-Online. We believe online instruction is the most innovative way to get education to customers without them investing a lot of money and time.

NHJ: You haven’t called it a ‘training center’ or a ‘school,’ it’s a ‘university.’ That implies serious instruction. Who are the educators and what is the program behind it?

TS: Our instructors are successful business leaders themselves who share their experience online. There are a number of categories in the curriculum; it goes anywhere from technical knowledge like designing a unit, cutting hair and different application techniques, to administration, and marketing. There will be business-type seminars, together with special how-to programs on topics that visitors will be able to select themselves. We’re also going to be doing live presentations with guest speakers.

NHJ: As we talk today, the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) is holding its scientific conference in Boston.

ISHRS started off as a small, education-focused group, and grew into a national institution. Do you think the same thing could happen with New Image University?

TS: That’s what we’re heading towards. The industry does not have a trade association; there are no national resources available. You can’t go to a library or the Internet to get in-depth knowledge and information about our industry. Of course you can get some, but the only place most retailers can get support is from within the industry itself, from people like us. We can share the knowledge and resources of our customers in the field. We want to bring that out to the industry.

NHJ: Do you think the industry ready for this?

In the past we have tried to bring industry leaders together in an executive retreat to pool resources and grow the market, and they were uncomfortable about sharing information.

TS: Our theme at this year’s conference was getting your business fit to meet the new challenges.

One of the things I’ve noticed over the years is that we tend to look to the past in order to make decisions about the future, especially during difficult times. That doesn’t work any more. I don’t think the market was well prepared to deal with the situation today. When you’re talking about increasing lead costs and customers who are themselves trying to save money, it’s a tough environment. You have to learn to run your business lean and mean but still be ready to take advantage of new opportunities out there. All of these issues are important, and this is what we are going to be stressing in our online NIU. NHJ: In the past the individual retailers were very proud of their independence, but it’s difficult today to go it alone. What advice would you give a retailer who’s grappling with the problem of building new skills and facing a future he doesn’t understand?

TS: That’s exactly what we’re addressing. Salon owners are reaching out for help. They have identified their strengths and weaknesses and realized the challenges ahead of them, and they’re reaching out to people like us.

NHJ: So in your estimation it’s no longer possible, and probably not smart, for an independent to try and go it alone?

TS: Definitely not. Yes, you do have some strong businesspeople out there that are running successful operations. They have the resources; they’ve done all of the footwork and built that business.

The rest of us need to reach out.

NHJ: What is the greatest challenge facing New Image as you look into 2011?

TS: We don’t see our industry facing a major challenge because we’ve been in it for many years and we’ve seen it rise and fall, pause and accelerate. We’re very proactive about how we run our business and we have big plans for the future. One issue we will be looking at closely is supply of product. As you know, the economic situation in China is changing as we speak; people are moving to the cities and the country is fast becoming industrialized. As a result it’s becoming difficult for smaller factories to survive and have skilled labor available to them at a reasonable cost. (continued on pg.16)

5 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010 stuff like radio and we get a lot of leads. So advertising is working. My message to salon owners is you have to work with professionals.

You are doing yourself an injustice if you’re not getting marketing materials that keep up with the changing consumer. There’s always going to be attrition, you’re always going to lose clients, so you have to keep replacing them or you will go out of business.

NHJ: So no more muddling along...

SD: You get what you pay for. Studios have to address the fact that it’s a more complex marketplace out there. The appeals that worked well in the past just don’t hold water today. We have to find new ways to reach out to the consumer, and studios have to open their wallets. A lot of studios say, “I just put up a website” and think that is enough. People think that the Internet is free.

Digital media is not free. Unless you put money into a website it’s not going to work. You either have to pay per word or pay per click on the search engine. You’re also going to need your own administrator. You have to have a carefully crafted website and you’d better be using traditional media like print or television as well to drive traffic to it. You cannot just do it digitally.

People are trying to do things on the cheap and they’re getting very little back because they’re putting very little into it. You get what you pay for.

NHJ: Every “consultant” says they’re a media expert. How do you know who’s for real and what works?

SD: Talk to other studio owners. See what they are doing and then sort through that advice. Talk to a lot of people, not just your friends. I go to industry conferences. Every manufacturer has a conference. Find out what’s working for other people. A lot of studios are trying out-of-the-box marketing techniques like getting ads posted in health clubs or getting on closed circuit TV in spas and health clubs. There are all sorts of alternatives out there. See what successful people are doing and stop listening to the naysayers. All the negative people say you can’t make money. But there are a lot of people out there doing very well.

What sets them apart is the fact that they are not following what worked in the past; they are looking to the future.

NHJ: So no easy answers, no “silver bullets?”

SD: Not really. But if one day a famous Hollywood actor came out of the closet and said, “You know what... this is not my own hair. I’ve had a hair replacement for years,” then, perhaps things would change. Until then, there are always going to be jokes, stuff about Joe Biden’s hair transplant when he was running for office and so on. There’s only so much you can do about it. Of course there are actors who’ve have had a hair replacement like Nicolas Cage or John Travolta, but they don’t talk about it. Everyone used to make fun of William Shatner, but he’s almost 80 years old and he looks like a million bucks. He’s had a hair replacement for about 50 years now and I think the guy looks great. I don’t know if William Shatner would be William Shatner if he didn’t have hair.

NHJ: There’s a lot of talk these days about branding. Since the industry has traditionally relied on direct response advertising, is brand management an important factor for studios?

SD: I definitely think this is the place for studios to go. Branding is key. If the market is flat, a studio has to take share from its competitors. One of the ways you take share is by having a greater presence in the marketplace. If there are four hair studios and you are the most well known, you’re more likely to get whatever hair replacement dollars are out there. It becomes even more important for studios focusing on a particular audience like women or a therapy like laser to brand themselves and define their market positioning.

NHJ: What about the hair? Why no Calvin Klein hair, for example?

SD: Hair is still seen as a commodity product, kind of like sugar. I don’t see that hair itself has a cachet. We’re in the service business more than the product business. What we do is an art form.

Base your brand on your unique skills.

NHJ: Let’s switch to the women’s market. How important is this segment of the hair-management industry?

SD: Women’s hair loss is a taboo subject. Until recently, nobody talked about it. Men are allowed to go bald, women don’t have that right.

Society does not accept women with thinning hair. The psychological impact of losing your hair is devastating for a woman. It is hard for a man to understand how powerful these emotions can be. This is a critical and growing market and I am pleased to see how the industry is adapting to train professionals to understand the special needs and provide quality solutions.

NHJ: We’d like to conclude the interview by asking you to be provocative. You have insights

into the industry that few people have, so we’d like to give you an opportunity to sound off about things readers wouldn’t hear from anyone else.

SD: Remember you’re not a Hollywood Mogul.

Stop trying to be a copywriter, advertising agency executive or film producer, and stop trying to make your own advertising because it’s not going to work. It’s just never going to happen.

Number two; stop saying advertising doesn’t work. It does work; it’s just that your advertising might not work. Number three; don’t always believe what other studios tell you because a lot of the time not everyone is telling the truth. The biggest mistake people in our business make is thinking about what they want and what they like, not the consumer. It’s not about them. It’s the client who’s doing the buying and he or she probably has very different ideas. If you run a commercial and you don’t make money, it’s a bad commercial. This is not art. It’s not like going to the Louvre or the Met. This is an instrument of commerce. Advertising exists for no other reason than to make money. Advertising is not for the public good. Advertising is not an art form.

Advertising is not a way to gain insight into humanity. Advertising is about selling something. And therefore, if it sells, it works. That’s good. If it doesn’t sell, it doesn’t work and that’s bad. That’s the only opinion you need.

NHJ: What should a studio owner do right now to improve their business?

SD: Check with your suppliers to see what marketing materials they have available. Number two; evaluate your website, how you’re using it and what you expect from it. And number three; check into media opportunities in your area that are more than ‘standard issue.” I keep talking about ‘creative’ because that’s the discipline I work in, but media selection is just as much a part of successful advertising as the creative end.

Too many studios buy their own media. As with making commercials, buying media should be left to experts. If studios do not review how they are marketing their services and do not adapt their efforts to stay compatible with consumers’ current way of thinking, or dare I say, “future way of thinking,” then the studio will become more and more irrelevant.

NHJ: Should salons retrench and specialize or expand?

SD: Salon managers should expand their current offerings, but with one caveat: they had better be darned good at providing these expanded service offerings. In other words, if you want to expand into the women’s market, you’d better understand that particular target segment, and your techs had better be able to deliver a top quality product.

Women do not accept compromises.

NHJ: Are the new media a friend or an enemy?

SD: We are now in the post-digital age. Digital media is a reality, everyone uses it, whether we’re talking about email or websites or social media.

This means a profound change in the way we reach out to consumers and garner new clients.

Thirty years ago, you could get about 40 channels on cable. Today, you can get about 400.

Now, expand that into all the choices that digital media gives consumers. It takes a specialist to navigate this new media marketplace.

NHJ: Is there a place for the small, familyowned independent?

SD: The independent operator will always have a place. Look at the mainstream salon business.

Sure, you have a few chains, but the independent salon that does really good work still reigns supreme.

NHJ: What is the biggest threat facing the hairloss industry today?

SD: Complacency... thinking you can do the same thing time and again and still expect a different result. They teach young psychologists that that’s the first sign of psychosis. OK, so, how do you get around this? Well, start opening up your mind. Forget about what Sy did twenty-five years ago. Immerse yourself in current culture.

Look at what other businesses, in unrelated fields, are doing. Read different magazines, go to movies you ordinarily might pass by, listen to new music, and sometimes, just take a few moments to look around and study people.

NHJ: Do you see any hidden profit opportunities in the hairloss market?

SD: I don’t really know if there are secret opportunities, per se, but I do know about trends. For example, I know that men’s toiletries are selling in increasing numbers. “Skin care” is no longer the province of women alone, for example. Is it that far fetched for hair replacement studios to offer skin care regimens to their clients? How about fashion? Why shouldn’t a hair replacement studio have a referral arrangement with a men’s clothing store?

NHJ: What role will new technologies play in shaping the future of our market?

SD: The consumer has taken center stage with the advent of (continued on page 16)

LOOKING AHE D 1part two

4 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

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Madison Av e n u e Looks at H a i r An interview with S t ev e n D i M a n n i Steve DiManni has been providing marketing and advertising services to the hair replacement industry for over 25 years. He has seen the industry evolve from a wig and toupee based market to a sophisticated multi-solutions market headed by financial analysts and database managers. Steve is accustomed to rapid change; indeed his business is creating change since he works for a prominent New York advertising agency. However, no matter how much the industry restructures the fundamentals remain the same. In this interview, Steve takes us back to basics and reminds us that we are dealing with that most delicate of all emotions, a man or woman’s personal image, and that this needs to be addressed with empathy and understanding. Steve believes that strong feelings like these are best addressed through professionally crafted communications campaigns and urges companies to work with advertising and media specialists to develop strong marketing programs.

N. Hair Journal: You have been involved in the hair industry for nearly 30 years. Describe the early hair replacement market and help us understand how it evolved.

Steve DiManni: I want to take Hair Journal readers back in time to the 80s when the hair industry as we know it today was still in development.

HRS, the brainchild of Leo Benjamin, was being developed by Jules Bornstein. It was a marketing cooperative that was soon to become a franchise.

Hair Club for Men was about to move from print into its first TV commercials. Monte Carlo, who you don’t hear about today, was a leading hair manufacturer. Print advertising was delivering lead costs at $50 a lead, so if you spent $200 or $300 for an ad in a New Jersey newspaper, you’d get five leads. Then we all went on TV and, all of a sudden, we began getting leads at $20 and the phone would not stop ringing. Everybody wanted to buy hair! People wanted to know about hair replacement and barbershops and men’s hair salons started seeing their fellow haircutters make money and they wanted to be part of the business too!

NHJ: Those were the “golden years.”

SD: Yes, by the late 80s, everything had kicked into high gear. The industry was being largely driven by Hair Club, but other people were starting to copy Hair Club commercials. Even small, independent operators would try to copy a Hair Club commercial, sometimes almost word for

word. It was the Wild West, but everyone was making money.

NHJ: But the good times did not last forever.

What changed?

SD: With the passage of time, the consumer got smarter. The consumer started realizing that this hair system thing was really like a toupee or hair weave and the wonder factor left. Unfortunately, the industry did not help matters. It stayed with the same old story of building confidence. “I’m so confident now... I’m confident with all the girls... I’m on the Jet Ski… I’m on a motorcycle.”

The advertising showed people doing ridiculous stunts to show that their hair wouldn’t fly off. Why did they even raise the question?

NHJ: With customers opening their wallets and business exploding, this would ordinarily be a time when investors and marketing professionals jumped in. Why didn’t this happen?

SD: Sy Sperling got lucky in the beginning because he had a good counselor and his early commercials were believable. But too many amateurs thought the good times would last for ever and that their success was due to their creative brilliance. But when these amateurs started making commercials they came up short. The industry was losing touch with the consumer, but wasn’t ready to seek professional help. That’s why there are advertising agencies. General Electric has an advertising agency. McDonald’s has an advertising agency. They’re smart people.

E*TRADE has an ad agency. They’re smart people. But people who try to go it alone without professional help; well they’re not smart. If, you had

blocked arteries, wouldn’t you go to the best cardiac surgeon you could find? Well if your business is important to you, you want to go to the best advertising people you can find.

Unfortunately, that didn’t happen.

NHJ: What was the result of this well intended, but poorly executed marketing?

SD: The industry reached a plateau in the late 90s, and around 2000- 2001, things began to change for the worse. It was a perfect storm. Transplants were getting better and better and the transplant industry was not shy about talking about its improvements. Secondly, hair growth drugs, Minoxidil and Propecia gave people hope. People were asking, “Why put something on my head or have a transplant when I can sprinkle something on or take a pill and I’ll grow my hair back.”

Those two factors, combined with the traditional hair business not keeping pace with the times and the commercials getting more and more ridiculous, really hurt the nonsurgical hair replacement market, and it has still not fully recovered.

NHJ: How did this impact your own career?

SD: Around this time, I moved from HRS to OnRite and we were producing some very effective stuff. We made a lot of money for studios that ran our commercials, but we could see that the independent market was beginning to plateau.

Lead costs were rising and studios began to wonder if advertising still worked. What they didn’t understand was it wasn’t the medium, it was the material! Homemade commercials don’t work!

Amateurs think they are very creative but they’re not. Many local media operators don’t even hire

copywriters, they write the scripts themselves.

They’re too busy trying to be TV producers, Madison Avenue creative directors or Hollywood moguls. It’s an insult to me as a professional who makes TV commercials for living. The saddest part is when a group of people pool resources to produce their own commercial and start running it until they find it doesn’t connect with the consumer and everyone jumps ship. There was one studio owner who produced a commercial that delivered $800 leads. The guy responsible for this disaster bailed out and wouldn’t even run his own advertising.

NHJ: You’ve established that the advertising did not connect with the public. But there was more to it than that. There were new technologies that distracted and sometimes confused the consumer and you’ve pointed out that traditional hair replacement was losing its allure. But these shortcomings were compounded by the fact that, unlike the clients you work for on Madison Avenue, the hair industry has never invested in consumer research and so has limited statistical and qualitative data for forward planning.

SD: Most of the problems in the hairloss market can be traced back to a dearth of research and a poor understanding of the market. This is a big problem, but it’s also a real opportunity - if and when we do our homework. Most guys realize that Propecia and Minoxidil don’t work, or don’t produce results that are cosmetically sufficient.

As for surgery, there will always be people who will be drawn to transplants and others who will rule them out. As for shaving your head, doing the Bruce Willis thing, well, that’s kind of passé now.

So there is still this fundamental demand. If you could put your finger on what it is that men are truly looking for, there could be a renaissance of the man’s hair business.

NHJ: The women’s market may be a golden parachute for some people, but, as you point out, there are still a lot of men seeking non-invasive hairloss solutions. How do you go about revitalizing the men’s market?

SD: The male consumer has not been addressed in a meaningful way for a long time. It’s become a catch 22. Many studio owners think men don’t want to buy hair anymore and so they believe that advertising to them is useless. I don’t know how they think they are going to sustain themselves in the long-term because with this kind of thinking, because although the women’s market is a nice niche for them, fewer women lose their hair than men. It’s a nice market segment and has served the industry well, but you can only take the cream off the top for so long. At some point they will have taken all the cream, and then they’ll not be in great shape.

NHJ: Salon owners and their consultants meet and talk with customers and prospects every day.

Are their consumer insights enough or does the industry need professional research?

SD: I think priority number one is serious, professionally-conducted research. Ideally on an industry-wide basis. At OnRite, we did a series of focus groups with two groups of men and two separate groups of women that Andy Wright paid for out of his own pocket. We came up with some interesting insights. Of course, focus groups are qualitative, not quantitative, but you can see what red flags are out there. One of the flags waving prominently in three of the focus groups was, “If they talk about ‘confidence’ one more time in these commercials I’ll rip my hair off. I’m not doing this for the confidence. That doesn’t have anything to do with hairloss - it’s demeaning to say that.” So what we’ve got is the industry pushing this button called “confidence” and the consumer saying, “No! No! No!” And every time you say confidence, you drive the consumer further away. And now people are sitting back saying, advertising doesn’t work.

That’s not true. Advertising does work. You just need the right approach. We’ve tried some small

3 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010

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Heavy Hearted – It is with a heavy heart that The Journal reports that Kae Martin, wife and vivacious partner of New Image founder Les Martin, passed away on October 29. As her hometown newspaper observed, ‘Kae enjoyed life to the fullest; she was outgoing and had a huge group of loving, personal friends who will all miss her and love her forever.’ Hair Journal readers everywhere share those sentiments.

Industry Leaders Speak Out - In this issue we continue to look ahead with the captains of the hair-management industry. Once again, we invited people who drive the market to share their thoughts and predictions about the future. Tony Sciara, president of New Image Laboratories, paused en-route to China to tell us about his company’s commitment to professional education. Pierre Amelotte, founder and CEO of PAI International joined us from Ottawa to talk about the importance of cross-marketing and Greg Taylor, chief administrator at Transitions International, outlined the benefits of sharing experience and resources. We also tracked down Irwin Kupitz on location in Germany to find out what's happening in Hollywood, the entertainment capital of the world. In a society increasingly influenced by celebrities, we wanted to find out what the “beautiful people” are asking for, and how you can get it too.

Bipolar – Hair restoration gurus swing from optimism to despair with every new fashion and trend. Not long ago, it was shaved heads that were going to undermine the market and have physicians and cosmetologists seeking a second job. It took the wisdom of seasoned veteran, Andy Wright to put things in perspective. In a recent interview, Andy pointed out that a shaved head is yesterday’s bellbottoms - passé, middle-aged, uncool. When I scrutinized the pages of leading men's magazines, GQ and men's health, I found neither publication had any fashion or grooming pages featuring men with shaved heads. None. Quite the opposite. Those same pages showed models with longer hair, shaped with gel or carefully tousled into the latest “informal” style. Good looking hair is back with a vengeance and so are we!

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security is a major concern, then advertising and public relations should stress the importance of looking young and dynamic, not tired and disposable. If advertising is unaffordable, then how about leveraging your existing clients and offering referral incentives? If people are unable to afford a hair replacement or cosmetic surgery, how about promoting hair maintenance programs? And if people do not want to grow old, but won't take the risk of a hair replacement, how about a “gray out” or lowlight program?

And then there is cross marketing. The most successful businesses have developed synergistic relationships with local businesses that offer “looking good” procedures. Why not create a cross-marketing relationship with a tooth-whitening specialist or a dermatologist offering blemish correction, or your local cancer clinic? And if you are too busy to stand back from the forest to see these trees, how about joining a marketing group like Transitions or the National Hair Society to share resources and network among your peers? The businesses that are prospering have taken these steps. The ones that haven’t are the ones you will find in the classifieds.

Happy Holidays! – The staff, writers and contributors to The National Hair Journal wish readers everywhere a very special time with their families and the people close to them this holiday season. In the thirteen years that we have been publishing The Journal, we have made many close friends and we thank you for your input, advice and support.

Thanks Keith – The same research that had me turning the pages of men's magazines also led me to an article that had me rolling in the aisles. It was headed “Keith Richards Guide to Aging Gracefully.” It seemed to make about as much sense as an interview with Yul Brynner about hairstyling. But I am beginning to see things differently. It doesn't matter whether you are an aging rock star, party animal or an office worker; no one wants to grow old “ungracefully.” The heart of our business is an aging population that refuses to grow old. And that's the key.

Paradoxically, it took Keith Richards to remind me.

Divided We Fall – I spend a lot of time on the telephone talking with salon and clinic owners up and down the country.

Their first question is always, “How's the market doing?” I tell them that there is a split right down the middle between businesses that are steady and growing and those that are on the defensive and at risk. The thing that separates them is not, as they would claim, consumer spending, but vision. Vision means the ability to repackage your services to appeal to a changing consumer. If job

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Chris Webb

Editor-in-Chief

28 The National Hair Journal Winter 2010