2010 Summer

Education

Features

Are You Getting Enough Fiber?

Medical

News Makers

A world of change

One Woman’s Life Mission

A vision for the future

By Linda Dresser

By Jonalee Schmidt

President and CEO, Aderans International

pg. 20

pg. 16

pg. 4

An Interview with Mr. Tadao Otsuki

An Interview with Mr. Mark Kress

pg. 6

The National Hair Journal VOLUME 14 NO. 54

THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR FITNESS , HAIR REPLACEMENT AND RESTORATION

TROJAN HORSES Cairns, Australia, 06/2010 - Personal care companies continued their penetration of the hair loss market with presentations at the 6th World Congress for Hair Research in Australia. Procter & Gamble, makers of Pantene, Wella and Herbal Essence talked about “Innovation In Hair Research,” (Measuring Hair Structure by Protein Loss and Understanding the Role of Protein Integrity on Hair Damage / New

Innovations in Anti-Dandruff Technology: Proteomics Applications), while Johnson & Johnson, famous for its baby shampoo, explained why Rogaine in it's new foam formulation is the right way to go (“Foam vs. Solution” / “New Perspective for Treating Female Pattern Hair Loss” / “Myths & Facts about Hair Loss Treatments”). Both companies bring substantial war chests to these medical con-

Follea Expands

ity, full range, lightweight, European hair product line that complements their premium “LifeStyle Collection” and the ultra-premium “Luxury Collection.”

Follea offers their hair through a global network of hair professionals. Their human hair product line includes wigs, topettes, hairpieces, volumizers and fringes all bearing the promise, “Nature’s Most Beautiful Hair.”

Beverly Hills, CA. 06/2010 – Follea, the company that brought a new level of sophistication to the women’s wig market is launching a new mid-price line for women who are first time wearers or in the early stages of diffuse hair loss. The all-new “Aéro Collection” is a high qual-

Thin to Fat Irvine, CA, 06/2010 – On January 2008, a new California biotech company announced the commercial release of HairDX.com, a consumer-friendly test using a simple cheek swab that provided a genetic analysis of a man’s likelihood of developing male pattern baldness (Androgenetic Alopecia). Originally offered to the public via the Internet, it is now available only through physician's offices. The HairDX test gives men and women the possibility of learning about the risk of hair loss at a time when treatments are most effective - before the loss of hair is noticeable.

Just in time for Summer 2010, HairDX parent company, DermaGenoma Inc., is now releasing the CelluliteDX Genetic Test for moderate to severe cellulite (gynoid lipodystrophy). The $249 test helps doctors predict if a patient is at a high risk for developing Nurnberger-Muller grade 2 (or greater) cellulite. The information allows a doctor to develop a plan, which may include therapy, and/or lifestyle changes that may reduce the risk of developing moderate to severe cellulite.

As the company’s literature states, the test, “Helps determine the likelihood of cellulite - before the swimsuit makes you look fat.”

5 Stars for Effort Transitions Donates Hair for Gulf Coast Cleanup Millbrae, CA. 06/2010 - Transitions International Group, a non-profit hair loss replacement organization, donated hundreds of pounds of human hair to help with oil spill cleanup efforts along the beaches of the Gulf Coast. When enclosed in a simple nylon stocking, “the cuticle on the hair literally grabs on to the oil and contains it within the stocking", said Greg Taylor, Transitions Administrator. Rather

Stylist: Nicholas French Photographer: Roberto Ligresti Matrix, Westhampton, NY

After HairDX… CelluliteDX

Hairstyles that Turn Heads Las Vegas, 07/10 - The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) is the most prestigious photographic beauty competition in North America, celebrating the haute fashion and inspired design of the professional salon industry.

See a poster-size preview from the “Avant Garde” section in the center spread, courtesy of PBA. than adding waste to landfills, the hair is assembled into protective mats and booms. When stitched together, they can be used to clean up almost any type of oil spill. The pads can be cleaned and re-used up to 100 times, after which they can be safely used as a biodegradable natural plant fertilizer.

However, after a technical evaluation, BP announced that it would not be able to use hair booms in their oil spill cleanup efforts after field tests indicated that commercial booms absorbed more oil and less water than hair booms. There was another concern also, "We foresee a risk that widespread deployment of the hair boom could exacerbate the debris problem," said Coast Guard spokesman Petty Officer Shawn Eggert.

ferences, which allows them to mingle with the world's top medical authorities and hairloss researchers.

P&G is adept at leveraging it's medical connections and has quietly repositioned several of its cosmetic products as quasimedical brands. Olay skin care products for example, have morphed into “Olay Professional Pro X” at a commensurately professional price. Head and Shoulders has launched “Head and Shoulders Hair Endurance for Men” which "Restores a fuller look" to thinning hair.

The Other Shoe Drops

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Murrieta, CA. 07/2010 - Anyone who studies military campaigns will recognize the classic pincer movement. From one side, the cosmetic industry is sneaking up on the thinning hair market as a new profit opportunity driven by aging baby boomers with money to spend. And from the other side, comes the medical cavalry with new technologies, ever-cheaper procedures and deep pockets. Down in the valley, sitting by the campfire, lies the traditional hair replacement market. From time to time, it sends out scouts to check the landscape. Sometimes they return, often they do not.

Procter&Gamble has announced the introduction of a new hair thickening shampoo. It was always just a question of time before this happened, but with the impetus of their recent Nioxin acquisition, it is a marketing decision that is sure to lead the company further into hair loss terrain. And have you seen the teaser ads from American Crew? This staple of

the consumer marketplace has used modern media and modern techniques to arouse awareness of thinning hair.

Our predictions for the future? Look for Gillette to launch a men’s' hair thickening

Laser Warning!

Dallas, 06/10 - Owners of cosmetic lasers who promise to ‘grow’ hair must stop their illegal marketing or face the consequences.

Authorities in the State of Texas have been visiting hair salons and laser centers and ordering them to cease light therapy operations if their websites, brochures or other sales materials promote a medical benefit.

“Medical” in this case means the device or product “changes the structure” of something on or in the body. “Makes hair fuller,” “promotes hair growth,” “stimulates the hair folli-

™

SUMMER 2010

Aderans Regroups Beverly Hills, 06/01/2010 - Aderans celebrated its new centralized US organization at a special Universe of the Stars reception in Beverly Hills. Mr. Tadao Otsuki, President and CEO, welcomed company executives and guests from Aderans Hair Goods, Aderans Research Institute and Bosley and announced the company’s goal of becoming the nation’s top total hairloss solutions provider. Prior to 2010, Aderans US subsidiaries, New Concepts, Renee of Paris, International Hairgoods, TressAllure and Bosley operated as autonomous units with offices located in Florida, Minneapolis and California.

Effective June 1st however, Aderan’s US headquarters moved to available space in Bosley’s Beverly Hills offices. Mr. Otsuki assumed the position of president and chief operating officer at Aderans Holdings on December 1, 2009 and moved promptly to complete a major restructuring of the company’s US retail operations.

Read Our Exclusive interview on page 4. line based on a combination of Head and Shoulders research and Nioxin marketing savvy. And keep an eye on American Crew whose Trichology Hair Recovery System is being aggressively promoted in men’s magazines and on the web. Don't be surprised to see a Minoxidil-enriched line extension, after all Paul Mitchell tried this a couple of years back before the market was fully educated. L'Oreal will not be sitting on the sidelines either. Marketing execs in Paris can read demographic trends as well as anyone else and they recognize that the aging population represents a needy and prosperous target market.

Anything else? Absolutely. The convergence of cosmetic and medical hairloss solutions will accelerate with hair salons offering "professional" products and medical clinics leveraging their credentials to support personal care regimens. As evidence of this, look no further than Aderans consolidation of it's medical, hair system and wig business in California with the goal of becoming the world's number one total hair loss solution provider. The company claims its Bosley Professional Strength collection is, “The industry's first comprehensive program for fuller, thickerlooking hair.” cle” – these are all considered medical benefits and can only be offered by a medical doctor or in conjunction with a medical device cleared by the FDA specifically for this purpose. The FDA and State authorities look at the “intent” behind the laser services. If a client is led to believe that a laser will grow hair, this becomes a medical relationship. So if the laser in your center has not completed the clinical trials necessary to secure FDA clearance for the promotion of hair growth, you own and operate a “cosmetic” device and you are only authorized to make cosmetic benefit claims. “Cosmetic” means what the hair looks and feels like.

3 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

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“The times they are a changing” - The big news this issue is the relocation and consolidation of Aderans US businesses to one location in Southern California.

Effective June 1st, all Aderans US operations will be controlled and directed by a new management team located in Beverly Hills. As their president stated at a special reception to launch UniHair, the name of the new group, their goal is to utilize their considerable assets to become the world’s the top total hairloss solutions company. Aderans is already the biggest producer of hair goods in the world, the owner of the biggest medical hair restoration group in the world, owns the leading hair growth bio-engineering laboratory and controls many of the top wig and hair system brands in the US. Learn more by reading our exclusive interview with Mr. Tadao Otsuki on page 4.

Silicon Qingdao? I am writing this editorial from Palo Alto in the heart of Silicon Valley and perhaps the center of half of the important business and lifestyle innovations of the last ten years. Just down the road is the headquarters of Tesla, the allelectric sport car, and a mile further on is Stanford University, the campus that spawned Google among many other innovations. Last week I read that Nokia had moved its research center to Silicon Valley because this is where important things happen. Even mighty Microsoft has set up a development center here. So if information technology has a nerve center, where is the heart of the hair management industry?

Where do our new technologies come from? Do we have a forum for the free exchange of ideas and the encouragement of risk taking? If there is one, it has been well hidden these last twenty years. And the hair market has paid the price. The reluctance of the hair market to share resources is crippling it. Demographic trends, the focus on health, and the importance of good looks and vitality are creating a perfect environment for hair enhancements of all kinds - and yet the men's market is shrinking. How can that be? Simple.

We are out of touch with the consumer. We do not walk in our client's shoes; or share their dreams or career goals. What used to work in the past is no longer relevant. In today's fast-paced, flexible world, the average person entering the workforce today is expected to have at least thirteen career changes. They will move home twenty times. They will no longer work fixed hours, wear a tie or be part of a rigid hierarchy. So how is the hair industry responding? By running the same old advertising, promising romantic success and restored self-confidence. This is great fodder for late night comedy shows, but has little relevance to the way men live today. Steve DiManni has often written about this disconnect in these pages and returns to the subject again in this issue.

It’s the Hair Dude! – It may not have been the most elegant advertising slogan, but Medical Hair Restoration (MHR) was on the right track when it pointed its marketing machine at the youth market. It’s the easiest market to understand because their lifestyle is on display very day. Just look at the surge in tattooing and body piercing.

Young people are hungry to express themselves and to make a personal statement; often to shock or provoke the "establishment." So we have a potent opportunity to give kids the chance to be outspoken through their hair. And once young people start playing with their hair, the middleaged will follow. Then before you know it, provocative hair will be all the rage all over the retirement homes in Boca Raton. And where’s that "special occasion" hair? If you put on a different outfit for special occasions, why not special hair? How about wisps of color for anniversaries or public

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holidays? Too big a job you say?

Well, how come the tobacco industry convinced men that cigars smoking was cool when public health authorities everywhere were pouring millions into campaigns that said the opposite? The answer is excruciatingly simple; people are constantly looking for ways to make a personal statement. We have some of the best tools to help them do just that! There's a world out there waiting to hear from us.

Let Your Imagination Do the Walking!

We have a unique format. Our pages measure a full nineteen inches high and our center spread is poster sized. So why not publish posters that our readers can display to excite and stimulate clients and technicians? Starting this issue, that’s exactly what we’re going to do. The photos are taken from the Avant Garde collection finalists for the NAHA(North American Hair Styling) awards that will be announced at the North American Cosmoprof conference July 18th-20th in Las Vegas at the Mandalay Bay. We will proudly publish the names of the stylists and photographers who captured these remarkable images. Enjoy!

H2Oh! It’s the most valuable stuff on the planet. Life cannot exist without it. It’s fresh water and we’re running out of it.

The mighty Colorado River barely reaches the ocean. Water tables in the US and many other countries are drying up. Already NASA satellites can detect changes in the earth’s gravitational field. The supply of water is finite; there is no way to create more. So what is your salon doing about it?

Not an hour goes by without one of your employees getting his or her hands wet.

We’ve even got a special marketing term for the products we use, “Wet Goods.”

Read how The Michael Angelo Hair Studio is going green in this issue, then write and tell us how you are saving water and we’ll pass on your tips and suggestions.

In the next issue – Andy Wright, President of OnRite, reflects on a life in hairgoods and explains why selling the company he created to a Chinese group was the best thing for his clients and employees. Don’t miss it!

Chris Webb

Editor-in-Chief

Letters to the

Editor Dear Editor, I'm extremely concerned about safety in my salon, especially when using chemicals. I have used just about every solvent on the market. They have strong odors and irritate my skin. I also worry about the fumes and how they are affecting me and my girls.

Now, finally there is something that works well and is safe to use. It's called GhostBuster. There are certain bonds that are so difficult to remove that people stop using them. This one is not like that.

GhostBuster breaks the bond down, and does it fast. We work with so many chemicals in our business that when something is manufactured that works well and is safe to use too, I have to tell everyone about it.

Cathy Montefusco Technical Manager Virtual Reality Educator & Trainer

A VISION FOR THE FUTURE

4 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

An Interview with Mr. Tadao Otsuki, President and CEO, Aderans International

Effective June 1, 2010, Aderans consolidated its holdings in the US under Aderans America Holdings. These holdings consist of: • The newly merged Bosley and Medical Hair Restoration under the name Bosley.

• The newly consolidated hair systems business under the name, Aderans Hair Goods.

• The bio-engineering research company, Aderans Research Institute.

To celebrate the launch of the new US program, Aderans hosted “Aderans Universe of the Stars” at the Intercontinental Hotel in Century City, Los Angeles on the evening of June 1st, 2010.

The National Hair Journal met with Mr. Otsuki and his management team to learn more about Aderans strategic planning and its vision for the future.

Mr. Tadao Otsuki, President and CEO, Aderans International

NHJ: Aderans is the largest distributor of hair addition products in the world.

What global trends does Aderans see in the hair replacement market?

Aderans: Aderans sees promising global trends and opportunities in three key areas: 1.The women’s fashion wig market.

Women are accessorizing their looks now more than ever before. With celebrities glamorizing hair extensions over the past five years, women are looking more and more to enhance their own hairstyles looks through alternative means. We at Aderans see a big opportunity in creating, developing and perfecting the female hair systems market.

2.The medical field for cancer and other alopecia related patients. It is very unfortunate that the population of cancer sufferers continues to grow globally at this time.

Cancer patients who lose their hair currently don’t readily have well-known and available resources to restore their looks and confidence. Most hospitals and medical providers do not have competently structured resources for these patients to turn to in regards to hair systems. We at Aderans Group see this as a big opportunity to help. Creating structured programs with medical professionals will undoubtedly decrease patient frustrations, increase patient confidence to live normal lives, and lastly, if done efficiently, strengthen the bond between the patient and the health care provider. This is especially true with children suffering from cancer.

Aderans has been working closely and diligently with charitable groups in Japan who work with these younger cancer patients. I would very much like to expand this critical initiative to the U.S. 3.Total hair loss solutions provider.

Currently and historically, the hair restoration market has been very fragmented.

Individuals currently interested in dealing with their hair loss, must do their own research before they go down one of many different paths to restoring their hair.

Each one of the hair restoration paths typically leads them to a different company or provider. Why not create centers of excellence for hair loss that allow the customer to enter a facility that has done the research for them and at the same time houses all state-of-the-art hair restoration options? It makes total sense if you approach it from the consumer demand mindset. Whether it be wigs, hair transplantation, laser therapy, medical therapy, etc, they are all viable options that can help satisfy the needs of the hair loss consumer. Aderans currently owns the largest manufacturing facilities for hair systems, the largest medical practice for surgical hair restoration and the largest research facility for hair restoration research. Our focus moving forward will be to leverage our expertise in creating total hair loss solution centers.

Not all trends or opportunities are on the above-mentioned growth path. The male hair systems market has definitely matured, if not declined, in the last five years. This area of the hair restoration industry will require much attention and creativity over the next 5 years to re-introduce and re-invigorate.

In addition to marketing opportunities, there are also global market opportunities/trends. Outside of Japan and the United States, there are many emerging global markets such as China, that have matured to become fertile ground for premium quality branded hair restoration services. Aderans is aggressively positioning itself to establish growth in these markets and in all of the above-mentioned opportunities.

NHJ: How is North America different from other markets?

Aderans: North America is different from other markets in two key areas; hair transplantation and advertising opportunities. Compared with the other hair restora-

tion markets of the world, Aderans owns the most well-known and well-established brand in surgical hair restoration in this country and in fact, the world -- BOSLEY. While hair transplantation is not even close to saturation point in the US, it is even less so or practically nonexistent in many other developed countries. One of the main reasons for this is advertising. In the United States, medical service providers can advertise at will if they can substantiate the results they can achieve.

This is not the case in many other countries. Much of the time, medical service advertising is either prohibited or limited to specific marketing media such as yellow pages, referral or the Internet. The Internet, and its ability to advertise and communicate through social media and search engines, will quickly change the playing field for hair transplantation in other countries.

NHJ: For many years, Aderans subsidiaries in Europe and North America maintained distinct identities and operated autonomously.

Is this policy in the process of changing?

Aderans: Good question. It is absolutely changing. On September 1st, Aderans will be launching UNIHAIR. UNIHAIR will be the holding company that will manage all Asian, US and European global operations. The U.S. headquarters for this new consolidated UNIHAIR company will be in Beverly Hills, CA and will be involved with all marketing and financial strategy decisions for the US. It is important to mention though that, while UNIHAIR will bring together and synergize all the companies, we will continue to respect and honor the business and marketing strategies and methodologies that made these companies successful.

NHJ: Will all the companies retain their independence and individual brands, or do you plan to combine some of them?

Aderans: From a marketing and financial

5 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

strategy point of view, there will be change. There is a need to reorganize and evolve the Aderans brand(s) according to market place conditions and corporate strategies. The details of the scale of such a joint organization are currently confidential, but will be forthcoming.

“Aderans currently owns the largest manufacturing facilities for hair systems, the largest medical practice for surgical hair restoration and the largest hair restoration research facility.”

NHJ: The medical and nonmedical sides of the Aderans Empire have been kept apart until now. Is this going to change?

Aderans: We do foresee this dynamic changing. There is promising growth potential as a provider for total hair loss solutions in the current marketplace.

Ultimately, Aderans’ goal is to provide the hair loss consumer the best experience possible. We want an individual dealing with hair loss to be able to go to a state-of-the-art center of excellence where they can educate themselves on their options and then be able to choose from the latest services, therapies and/or treatments to solve his or her problem.

As I mentioned before, Aderans has what we feel are the top companies in the hair restoration industry and it makes all the sense in the world to bring them together to provide a better experience for our customer/patient.

NHJ: What consumer benefits will stem from the closer integration of previously?independent hair replacement solutions?

Aderans: The consumer benefits of a

“We want an individual dealing with hair loss to be able to go to a state-of-the-art center of excellence where they can educate themselves on all their options and then be able to choose from the latest services, therapies and treatments.” closer integration will unfold in many ways. Aderans is the premiere expert in hair loss fashions and solutions. We feel that with a more focused and consolidated effort, Aderans will be able to more efficiently and effectively create the consumer experience that our customers demand. One of the most important benefits will be access. By consolidating operations and training, Aderans will be able to reach more consumers by having each of our businesses offer more than one hair loss solution. The consumer’s demands vary from person

to person. Some consumers know exactly what they want and others know that they just have a challenge that they want to solve. With the re-organization, we will be more readily capable of creating a better user experience no matter what stage of hair exploration they are in.

NHJ: The Aderans board of Directors was substantially restructured in 2009.

Does the new board have a different vision for the future?

Aderans: In the past, Aderans was satisfied with providing hair loss solutions in a very fragmented operational fashion. Businesses were left to manage and create their own strategies to address individual business needs. The new board is focused on unifying the strategy of the entire organization to better provide cohesive operations that will ultimately provide the consumer what they demand from a total hair loss solutions provider.

NHJ: With the exception of International Hairgoods, all of the Aderans companies in North America will be headquartered in Beverly Hills. Is that because Beverly Hills is the entertainment and PR capital of America, or simply because you had available office space?

Aderans: Beverly Hills will provide the headquarters for UNIHAIR in the U.S. because there is a great opportunity to have both hair systems management and Bosley under one roof. Additionally, this consolidated location in one of the largest metro areas of the US will provide many opportunities in efficiencies of advertising, finance, IT, etc., and function as a more efficient springboard to the rest of North America.

NHJ: Who are the people in the new management team running Aderans in this country?

Aderans: The new management team consists of myself as President, Mr. Shigeru Ishiko, Chief Financial Officer, Mr. Hiroaki Matsubara, Executive Officer in charge of Corporate Planning and Group Management Office, Mr. Yuji Hirahara, Executive Officer in charge of Marketing, Mr. Mutsuo Minowa, Executive Officer in charge of U.S. Project. For Bosley, it is Mr. Armen Markarian, Chief Operating Officer, Ken Washenik, MD, PhD, Medical Director and Mr. Rob Spurrell, VP of Sales and Marketing. For Aderans Hair Goods, it is Ms. Onkyo Sthair, Vice President of the Revlon Division, Mr. Kosei Tanaguchi, Vice President of the Rene of Paris Division, and Mr. Peter Gensler, Vice President of International Hair Goods (Medical Division).

NHJ: Is it possible to manage a personal care product from the other side of the world?

Aderans: It is very possible to manage all aspects of this business with the management organization strategy that we are building as a foundation for operations.

NHJ: “Hair cloning” suffered a setback when InterCytex pulled out of cell multiplication research. Is Aderans committed to continuing this research alone?

Aderans: Absolutely, our commitment is as strong as ever. As far as we are concerned, there has been no setback.

Although we feel that a greater number of participants in the field makes the field stronger, we were nonetheless excited to be able to acquire Intercytex’s important hair related assets. This strategic acquisition helped strengthen our field leading position in the area of cellbased hair regeneration.

The research that we are doing with Aderans Research Institute is continuing as planned. We are currently well past an

enrollment of 100 subjects in our Phase II clinical study in the United States.

This work is invaluable to our group.

The potential of future medical and scientific breakthroughs that can augment our currently available options to help people with hair loss is a big part of our future growth strategy.

NHJ: Aderans flagship product, CyberHair, is coming under attack from a new generation of synthetics. What steps is Aderans taking to stay ahead?

Aderans: Yes, it is true that a lot of new fibers are starting to show up in the marketplace, to compete with Cyberhair.

With Cyberhair being the first made of nylon, and the original, it is to be expected that other manufacturers would want to duplicate it and its special properties. However, Aderans has also made another fiber called Vitalhair; it works as another solution for thinning hair.

NHJ: There has been much talk about the growing scarcity of high quality human hair. As the biggest distributor of hair products, how do you see this problem, and what steps are you taking to confront it?

Aderans: Aderans was aware that this would be a problem years ago and that is why we started to develop fibers such as Cyberhair and Vitalhair, so there was a solution for this growing problem.

NHJ: Do you see the hair replacement industry continuing to consolidate or will it be driven by fashion-forward boutiques?

“The potential of future medical and scientific breakthroughs is a big part of our future growth strategy.”

Aderans: Yes, the industry will both consolidate and have the fashion boutiques. This is already being practiced

by Aderans in limited locations.

NHJ: As populations in most industrialized nations continue to age, the need for hair replacement products should be increasing. However, consumer demand among men is going in the other direction. Where did we go wrong?

Aderans: Yes, it is true as men mature; they want life to be easier and more carefree, so this market is therefore on the decline. This market can be brought back if there are total hair loss solutions centers that offer a full range of available options for clients including transplantation, scalp treatments, non-surgical hair thickening procedures that can be applied to their own growing hair, and ultra light hair systems with many different types of hair options for each client’s lifestyle.

NHJ: What needs to be done to fix it?

Aderans: We need to let customers be aware that there are many different types of options for thinning hair that can fit their lifestyle and at the same time greatly enhance their appearance with very little effort. Ultimately, we need to do a better job to educate and increase consumer awareness of all of these options NHJ: The hair replacement industry has, historically, remained a fragmented, distrustful and uncoordinated market.

As a result, it has failed to promote itself successfully with the public, it has no standards, certification process or coordinated public relations program. Isn’t it time to change this?

Aderans: Yes, it is time to change the hair replacement industry, and give honest answers to thinning hair options. It is time to educate the clients about exceptional quality and let them experience

“A supplier of hair loss solutions needs to offer all types of solutions, surgical and non-surgical, and to do this you need to have all the solutions available from your own manufacturing facilities.” many different solutions for hair loss (surgical and non-surgical). And it is time to better coordinate these efforts.

NHJ: Looking at the Aderans Empire, is it bigger and better? And, if so, why?

Aderans: I think a supplier of hair loss solutions, needs to offer all types of solutions - surgical and non-surgical, and to do this you need to have all the solutions available from your own manufacturing facilities, as Aderans has.

NHJ: Is there anything you would like to share with readers of The National Hair Journal that we have not thought to ask you?

Aderans: Products and services, produced as solutions for hair loss, need to vary according to the customers’ needs.

Sometimes we don’t do a good enough job of listening to our customers.

Everyone wants their own growing hair whenever possible and therefore, we need to educate customers how to take care of their own growing hair before it starts to thin.

We then need to have qualified people who can evaluate their thinning hair situation and recommend the best options for the customer and his or her lifestyle. Many customers, or should I say patients, are perfect candidates for medical or surgical procedures and are not aware of all that can be done in a clinical setting to help with the thinning issue at Bosley. Some do not qual-

“We see a big opportunity creating, developing and perfecting the female hair system market.” ify for medical procedures and they need to be educated on options that are available for them to thicken their hair with only 4 hairs attached to one hair with lightweight Cyberhair. Some people need to have both – hair transplantation and the non-medical option applied to thicken their hair. Some need to have non-medical applications applied. Universally, they all need to be educated on what technologies are available and what will work with their lifestyle, so they are comfortable living their lives. We need to make things as easy as possible for them.

Potential consumers need to be educated and we as an industry need to make the public more aware of what is available to them.

NHJ

6 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Are You Getting Enough Fiber?

In the summer of 2007, The National Hair Journal interviewed Mark Kress, founder and president of Spencer Forrest Inc., the company that almost single-handedly created the category of cosmetic solutions for thinning-hair.

Since that time a number of other companies have been drawn to this expanding and lucrative market. To help readers stay up to date, we invited Mark to describe the changes in the hair fiber market. As a matter of policy and business etiquette, he declined to comment on other products, but he did discuss important industry trends and cross-marketing opportunities.

Spencer Forrest manufactures and distributes Toppik hair building fibers, Toppik Hair Fattener shampoo & conditioner, COUVre coloring lotion, Fullmore aerosol hair thickener and the X5 handheld laser.

Mark Kress easily and blend with the hair so somebody with a thinning area could see themselves with a full head of hair in 30 seconds or less.

Mark Kress: Toppik is made of pure keratin fibers, just like your hair. It comes in a variety of colors to match any hair color, and it is charged with static electricity so it bonds tightly with your hair. You apply it on a daily basis to overcome the appearance of hair loss. It’s as if you’re applying tiny little hairs from your very own head to the area. Within 30 seconds you have the appearance of fuller hair.

NHJ: Was Toppik the first product made to conceal hair loss?

MK: The first product in this category was called Top Coverage back in the 70’s. This was a colored spray paint product and it was the forerunner of the Good Looking Hair Color Spray (GLH) that came out in the 90’s. However, the first serious product in my opinion was the one

NHJ: In the medical field, doctors are cautioning patients about rushing too quickly into invasive procedures like hair restoration surgery.

Hair systems can also be invasive since they often involve shaving the scalp and applying bonding agents. Toppik however, is cosmetic and requires no surgery, shaving or physical changes. If the result is not satisfactory, nothing is lost.

MK: Cosmetic products should be the first line of defense. First of all, they’re simple. With the first application you can see what works for you. They have instant results. They’re inexpensive. They’re non-invasive – virtually any treatment for hair loss has some degree of invasiveness whether it’s the attachment of a system or a drug or surgery. So these products are the easiest thing you can do to give yourself a better look. And if you don’t like them, that’s the end of it. If you do like them, then you are free to apply Toppik every day or just use it when you want to look your best.

NHJ: If it’s the first step, why do so many hair loss professionals leapfrog straight into the second or third steps?

MK: More and more professionals aren’t.

There are a lot of doctors who advise patients,

we developed in 1981 called COUVRe. It’s like a tinted moisturizer and has coloring from iron oxides. It also contains special materials that dull the scalp’s shine. Our thinking was, if you darken your scalp to the color of your hair, and reduce its shine, then comb your hair back into the thinning area, your eye would see a fuller, thicker head of hair. And it worked. COUVRe was quite successful for us being that we were a start-up company. It’s still around today and represents a significant portion of our business.

NHJ: When did Toppik hit the market?

Toppik didn’t come out until 1995. There was a prior product that used the same principal called, “Super Million” from Japan. The problem was that it was made of colored rayon, which frankly looked awful in the hair. There was an obvious could detect the difference in luster and color between hair and a synthetic material. So we developed Toppik using natural keratin fibers. We saw hair fibers as the next step in our business, moving from coloring the scalp to actually enhancing the hair itself. Our goal was to create a product that would apply

particularly younger patients in the early stages of hair loss, to take a more cautious approach and to use products like Toppik until their hair loss progresses and a clear pattern develops.

Of course, there are different philosophies.

Doctors look for medical solutions to problems. We, as the cosmetics marketers, look for cosmetic solutions to these problems. These two approaches work well together. If a doctor offers a patient Toppik in the early stages of his hair loss, he builds loyalty with the patient and eventually may do a better job surgically. If the doctor does surgery on a patient, as I discovered during my own first hair transplant, there’s often an awkward period after surgery when there’s a diminished coverage. Toppik is able to negate that problem by creating the appearance of extra density during the awkward period when you’re waiting for hair growth. We all know that hair transplantation is limited by the amount of donor hair. Often crowns can’t be effectively treated. Toppik comes into play when surgery cannot be the full answer.

NHJ: Let’s dispel some of the misunderstandings

7 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010 about hair fibers. Number one, “It doesn’t stay on the head,” “If the wind blows or your hair gets wet, it’s going to be messy.” Are these facts or folklore?

MK: The last thing we’d want with a product like this is to be embarrassed by it in any way.

Assuming the customer has sufficient existing hair, Toppik will stay in their hair through just about anything. Obviously if a customer has really fine, diffused hair, hair of a very short length, or if there is not sufficient surface for the fibers to adhere to, they might not hold as well.

But with an adequate amount of hair, you can be confident that the products will not budge.

There is no possible way that Toppik can embarrass you. If you were hit by a deluge while wearing Toppik, the product would just go out of your hair. If you went swimming in the ocean wearing Toppik, most of it would just go out of your hair. What it cannot do, which is, I think, the image in people’s minds is form a brown puddle that runs down your face and makes you look like an idiot. These are colorfast fibers. If they get on your clothes they just – you can just blow them off. There’s no transferral of color.

If you put them in water there’s no change in the color of the solution. So the worst thing can that happen is that you can lose some of the fibers.

But with a reasonable amount of remaining hair on your head, using the fibers as directed, using our fiber hold spray in some cases which helps increase the bond between the hair and the fibers, customers report that the Toppik is almost blown or dislodged from their hair. And certainly, it never embarrasses them.

NHJ: Misunderstanding number two. Toppik

maintain customer loyalty. If a hair replacement center is visibly offering Toppik, people will come in and buy it because it’s available on a very limited basis at retail. So they will establish more leads. Just as with lasers, salon managers should not look at Toppik as a competitive product that will send the customer on his way without needing a system because you’re looking at two entirely different results. Toppik cannot restore a hairline that’s completely gone. It cannot make somebody who’s bald look like they have a full head of hair. It cannot solve all of the issues of giving somebody exactly what they want in terms of hair. It only works with the existing outline of your hair. So if your hairline has receded three inches, you only can get that restored by surgery or a hair system.

NHJ: You mentioned light therapy. Do you see lasers and Toppik as synergistic partners?

MK: A significant percentage of the sales of our X5 laser are to Toppik customers.

Conversely, Toppik users trust us to offer meaningful companion products. If products are safe and effective, based on real science, then they can and should support each other. Light therapy and hair fibers like Toppik are both legitimate hair loss solutions that work together, but in different ways.

NHJ: You market direct to the consumer, so you have your finger on the consumer’s pulse.

Is hair loss becoming a greater problem and are people seeking more solutions today than in the past?

MK: Certainly, people are recognizing that there are multiple solutions. They have now come to realize also that seeking answers to

is something to be worn temporarily, for example, a special occasion or an appearance on television. Not an everyday product.

their hair problems is not something that they should be ashamed of. Interestingly, we have seen an increasing problem in the female population. We also manufacture a similar product called XFusion, and since it is sold exclusively in salons, we get a lot more feedback. We’re finding that more than half of our XFusion sales are to women with thinning hair problems.

NHJ: Looking ahead, are there any new products on the horizon?

MK: Toppik is an outstanding product for what it does, but one of its limitations has always been the problem of filling out a front hairline so it looks completely natural. The long-standing way of applying Toppik was to hold your hand against your forehead at the hairline and shake the fibers in there. That was an imperfect process and it prompted us to create a new spray applicator. It is similar to an atomizer and it screws onto the Toppik bottle or to the XFusion bottle and allows you to spray a perfectly controlled stream of fibers in exactly the area you want. The fibers go on more evenly and with minimal wastage. It’s also ideal for targeting specific areas, for example, for women who have localized areas of baldness. Another companion product is the Toppik Hairline Optimizer, which is something we developed in tandem with the spray applicator. It’s a template that is designed to give a deliberately uneven, natural-looking front hairline. Obviously, anything that gives the appearance of a straight line in the front is going to look unnatural, but by using the spray applicator and the hairline optimizer together, you can get a perfect front hairline every time. Both these devices are patent protected and are not available on any competitive product.

NHJ: Are there any cliffhangers you want to tease the market with?

MK: Both the Toppik and XFusion lines are coming out with a wet goods line extension that include a specialized shampoo, a conditioner and what we call a “Hair Fattener” that will help enhance the look of thinning hair.

NHJ: And now the question that you cannot answer, but I will tell our readers whether you smiled or not - Was Italian Prime Minister, Mr. Berlusconi, wearing Toppik when his hair suddenly got thicker for his press conference?

MK: That certainly is one of the choices for a user. Many of our customers are in show business. They might choose to use it only on stage.

Some customers just use the product when they want to look espcially good, but don’t use it when they’re less concerned with their appearance. Many make it part of their daily appearance and would never be seen without it. We don’t say that there’s one way that you must wear it. Toppik is simply the most valuable grooming product for the majority of its users.

NHJ: Are there any other misunderstandings that you would like to take this opportunity to clear up?

MK: People who have not used Toppik do not appreciate how natural the result is. Many doctors tell us that once the product is in the hair it is virtually impossible, even to a trained eye, to differentiate Toppik from real hair. That’s how natural it looks.

NHJ: The Hair Journal is read by people providing hair loss solutions. Should they integrate Toppik into their professional lives?

MK: They should offer it as an option to customers who are deferring a purchase decision.

By doing so, they will keep a connection with the customer. Mostly likely the customer will continue to lose more hair and at some point look for a more permanent solution.

NHJ: Do you see Toppik as a solution in its own right or as a recruitment tool to populate the consultation room?

MK: Clearly the greatest profits for the hair professional are in the products that they’re in the business to sell. But they also need a wide range of products to attract new business and

MK: I’m sworn to secrecy. But he would not be the first head of state to get some help from our NHJ products.

8 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Double Your New Business In The Next Six Months

Sure, there’s 10% unemployment. And yes, consumers have been cutting back in their spending. And that means that companies have been cutting back in their marketing spending.

There are people waiting to give you their money. Will you take it?

There’s another factor, too. Many companies have been lulled into the fallacy of the “new media”. If you read my last column in this publication, Digital Delusions”, I outlined how this has hurt those who have thought they could profit from the new media by spending less money.

By Steven DiManni Steven DiManni is a 28-year veteran of Madison Avenue, serving as Creative Director of many of New York’s top agencies for clients ranging from Coca-Cola to Hitachi to General Cigar, and having won almost every major creative award the industry has to offer. He is also Executive Vice President/Creative of the John Caples International Awards for whom he creates the advertising that promotes the direct response industry’s preeminent awards show. A 27-year veteran of the hair replacement industry, Steven is a longtime contributor to The National Hair Journal and a consultant to the On Rite Company.

Hopefully, the sun will be warm when you read this, even if you live north of my part of the country. And hopefully, the economy will be improving, too.

So there’s been a leveling of the playing field going on, so to speak. No matter what industry you’re in, whether you sell hair or laundry detergent or pest control services, the fact is that your competitors have been cutting back as much as you have.

That means you’ve never had a better opportunity to unleash the pent-up demand that occurs during any downturn in the economy.

I’ll condense this into a few short paragraphs, and if you read no further in my column today, these new few paragraphs will be worth a significant amount to you in savings, if not in profits. A very significant amount.

Now, the new media DOES work. But to make it work, you have to spend money.

Maybe even more than with traditional media.

For example, you just can’t put up a website and have some 20 year old “optimize it” organically for you. Even if it’s a 50 year old, this person is going to have to continue his optimization techniques and utilize complex metrics to constantly improve them. Even then, the search engines know what you’re up to. They have counter measures to organic optimization. They want you to “pay for word”, meaning, to charge you money for key words that people will type in when they’re in search mode.

millions of dollars in social media and are complaining that they’re not getting any results. You think that you’ll give that 20-year old a few thousand dollars and make out far better?

Let me give you an idea of the cost for “pay for word”. In Manhattan, if you have two gyms whose websites you want to come up high in the search engines, you’ll spend $4,000 for an effective “pay for word” program. It will last four days. At that point, your money has run out.

Cheap only goes so far; nothing will get you nowhere

Are you getting the picture? OK, it gets worse.

And there are other companies who have done nothing at all. They’ve drastically cut their traditional ad budgets or eliminated them entirely. And they’ve put not a cent into new media.

How to get a luxury car at a compact price

You also have the cost of paying a person to work hours a week on your website to upgrade it organically. And then, even when you do all that, you have no guarantee that you’ll get a lead from your website. Because it has to be creatively produced, and sophisticated to appeal to savvy new media users.

It can’t be done. Everyone knows that you can’t buy a new Mercedes for the price of a Hyundai. Or that you can’t buy prime aged beef for the price of ground chuck. You get what you pay for. And sometimes, you get very little.

That’s been the case, unfortunately, for many of those who’ve turned to the new media as a low cost alternative in marketing.

Then there’s social media. Facebook, Twitter, My Space, You Tube, and the like.

You just can’t put up a page in Facebook.

You need to get fans. How do you do that?

With a “viral” video you create? One that’s interesting enough to have people want to send it to their friends, to have bloggers write about it, to have people “fan you.”

Many national advertisers are spending

Steven DiManni

You think you can buy a Mercedes for the price of a Hyundai?

Do you think I’m trying to tell you something?

So many companies, whether they sell hair or printing services, have gone on the cheap by trying to trade in a traditional advertising budget for some “free” new media.

They’re out of the public’s eye. They can rely on current customers for referrals. Or if they have a storefront, hope that someone drives by and stops to ask if they can buy something.

I’m not making fun of these enterprises.

I’m just saying that they have no hope of getting new business. And if you’re so successful that you don’t need new business, there’s nothing wrong with this strategy.

Few businesses, even national package goods advertisers or fast food chains, fall into this category.

9 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Demand doesn’t go away in a bad economy Demand may decrease.

People have less money to spend and are less willing to spend what they have. That’s a no brainer.

But people are still spending money. On one level, there are necessities like food and shelter. Electricity, gas, phone service, and the like.

How about personal toiletries?

Toothpaste, deodorant, etc.? Clothing?

Well, sure, you can put off buying a new coat for yourself, but can your ten-year old boy fit into the same shoes he did when he was eight?

Then there are life’s little niceties. A trip to see Mom and Dad in Florida, a new mattress to replace that old sagging one, a snow blower because you just can’t take shoveling anymore.

I’m not even going to get into extravagances. How does one explain the fact that Audi’s share is going up at the expense of other car companies’ when Audi is a luxury carmaker?

And then there are perceived needs.

Things that aren’t necessarily necessities but seem so to certain people at certain times. Like ballet lessons for your daughter, because let’s face it, she’s got talent? How about a new cell phones because your old one drops too many calls and it’s important to stay in touch with your family?

How about a tooth whitening system because you hate the way your teeth have yellowed? How about hair because you’re losing yours and hate the way you look?

Even in a bad economy, people will make sacrifices in certain areas if they feel that spending money in other areas is a greater need.

How about a guy who thinks he’d have a better chance of competing with younger job seekers if he wasn’t bald.

How about a woman who’d rather put more money into having nicer looking hair than fancy face creams?

If they don’t know you’re there, they can’t respond It’s hard to buy something from you if someone doesn’t know you exist.

It’s even harder for someone to buy something from you if they don’t know that they need or want it.

The biggest criticism of websites is that people have to know what they’re looking for in order to search for it.

So websites can’t drive demand that isn’t already there.

And while social media can drive demand, it can only do so if you spend enough money on it so that it reaches enough people to make it worth what you’re spending.

Kind of makes sense, doesn’t it.

Pent-up demand The great thing about traditional media is that it can reach a lot of people who aren’t actively looking for something and make them believe that they need what you’re selling.

In other words, it actively goes out and delivers a message to someone who is just “sitting there”, not even in a buying mode.

How much hair advertising has there been in your market, of late? Probably very little. How many men have started losing their hair in your market in the last five years? How many women?

How many know that you exist and that you offer solutions to their problems?

Beyond that, how many people even know that these solutions are “out there”?

There’s something you can do Instead of sitting idly by and just saying that men aren’t interested in hair anymore (and that women aren’t either), there are a myriad of solutions for you to pursue.

Here are a few: Get back on TV. Find a commercial from a manufacturer that has a good track record with producing successful TV commercials. Ask around; make phone calls, even to studio owners that you barely know. Believe me, they’ll be very happy to take your calls.

Find a real media buying service. Trying to buy media yourself is like trying to do your own root canal. Not a good idea.

Plus, the media buying service can direct how you best spend your dollars. Some markets are great for outdoor billboards, others are good for radio, and some are more ideal for TV. Take a good look at your website. Is it optimized? If not, ok, you can drive traffic there through traditional media.

But if you are not optimized, and if you are not running traditional media, it’s worthless, no matter how good it is.

How good is your website? Is it something that only someone in the business could understand? Does it communicate clearly? Does it command attention and interest? Is it easy to navigate?

If TV, radio, newspaper, outdoor and other types of traditional media don’t appeal to you, that’s ok, too. How about some “guerilla marketing”? On Rite has a program called “Out of the Box Marketing” that lets you pick and choose components that allow you to customize a strategy for your marketplace. If you don’t like On Rite, see what your manufacturer has in the way of guerilla marketing materials. If you don’t understand what guerilla marketing is, search it out on Google, or visit a bookstore or a library and educate yourself.

Only you can do it In the end result, the only one who cares about your business is you, the studio owner, and your valued employees. But as the studio owner or manager, you have to take the lead.

Being passive not only hurts your business, it sends a bad message to your employees.

Beyond that, being passive in a time when media is cheap and opportunity is right just doesn’t make sense, particularly concerning the current marketing environment in the hair business.

There are many studios right now that are experiencing tremendous growth at the expense of their competition. I wish for you the former, rather than the latter.

If you have any questions or any comments, contact me at The National Hair Journal. I’d be most welcome to hear from you-and to respond.

NHJ

Summer & Fall Hair fashion Trends

10 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

any clip out photographs that a client brings in.

It helps creates a totally customized look for your clients and will boost your demand and income in the end.

Clients like to pull their hair up and create upstyles for summer evenings. This requires less length than most people realize. Adding 12 to 14 inch hair extensions can be a great advantage for those that have a shorter style during the day and still want to be able to create an evening updo. Show your clients how to pull the sides back and twisting the neckline hair up and off the neck will create a beautiful look that appears to be done with long hair.

Recommend Salon Products: The care of hair extensions cannot be overlooked. Take the time to teach your clients how to maintain their hair between salon visits. Remind your clients to

Expert Advice From Nicholas French & Kathy Williams

By Hannah Mayo It is common knowledge that most celebrities usually inspire our fashion and hairstyle trends.

Nicholas French, international award winning hairstylist and National Creative Director for SHE Hair Extensions by SO.CAP. USA is happy to share his hair fashion trend predictions for summer and fall, while Kathy Williams, National Educator for SHE Hair Extensions by SO.CAP. USA offers her personal advice and tips on how to achieve these great summer hairstyles.

The newest and most exciting trend will be the use of temporary hair extensions for length, volume, body, texture and even haircolor accents. In times of recession, salon clients tend to be more adventurous with hair and makeup because they want a distraction from the current economic downturn. Escapism is something a lot of people need, even if it is subconscious. People will thus tend to be a bit more extreme, even if only on a temporary basis.

Variable Lengths: Years ago, most every woman had a similar hairstyle with the same three or four popular looks. With the availability of hair extensions and accessories, today it is more about individuality. Thanks to professional salon hair extensions, we can now change hair length on a daily, weekly or monthly basis. Generally speaking, mid-length to long tousled hair will be popular this summer and fall.

New Texture & Style: Full hair, big hair, shiny hair and fresh looking styles are what people have on their wish list. Movement will likely be the most noticeable trend. A surprising new trend will be crimped hair. Many women will start to wear sectional crimps again, yet this year it will look more like embossed hair rather than the 1980s ironed hair. Strong fringes and bangs are also going to be popular again. Salon clients will want them thicker rather than finer, thus creating a heavier bang. When your client wants bangs, style the rest of the hair so it is cut up and choppy, keeping the bangs heavier. Remember to keep the rest of the hair really loose and disheveled looking.

A great hairstyle that your clients will likely request is that ‘straight from the beach’ look. To help them achieve this look, add some wavy hair extensions to straight hair to help add texture and encourage the hair to fall into some beautiful tousled waves. To do this, place two or three rows of extensions around the head just above the ears. If their hair already has wave, wavy extensions will still add volume and create more dimension in the hair, while also adding a softer color and highlights for the desired summer sun-kissed look. For added volume and haircolor, place a row at the occipital area, then one across the back

HAIR DESIGNED BY: NICHOLAS FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHER: BABAK MAKE-UP: DAVID MADERICH CLOTHES STYLIST: MONTGOMERY FRAZIER

Summer brings with it a new challenge for your clients. They must decide whether they want to have short hair in order to stay cool, or have hair long enough to pull up for evenings. With hair extensions, you can provide both. Try using a longer clip-in extension about 5” or 6” long to go across the back of head from ear to ear. Then place two clip-ins, each starting from above the ear and meeting at the center back. Clip-ins will provide the length on short styles so hair can be swept up and look fresh and elegant for evening affairs. Make sure you are using 100% human hair. For a nice daytime look, suggest that your client wind them around their natural hair for a ponytail. from ear to ear and then the last one above the ears.

Creative Haircolor: Color will be a huge aspect of the newest seasonal hairstyle trends. As hairstylists, we can really make a difference in our clients’ lives with haircolor. A new request this year will be the option of haircolor without the use of chemicals. Semi-permanent and temporary hair extensions are your top choice for haircolor and highlights without the use of any chemicals. SHE Hair Extensions by SO.CAP. USA currently offers 85 exciting haircolor shades, providing your client with endless possibilities in just a matter of minutes if desired! Fantasy haircolor shades have become a bigger trend in the past couple of years for fashionable women of all ages. This year, we will see a lot of cool greens, blues and purples, besides the traditional warm tones. Instead of using the harsh tones of these haircolor shades, we will use the soft shades. It will not look like the “punk-rock” style but instead a more elegant and thought out haircolor choice.

Haircolor is a fun fashion accent for you and your clients to play with seasonally, especially during the summer and fall. If your client plans on going light, yet wants to avoid traditional chemical services, hair extensions are definitely the way to go. To keep highlights looking natural do not go more than two or three shades lighter than their

natural haircolor. When going darker, be careful to keep haircolor shades on the warm side to avoid ashing out a very light blonde. In order to keep the look soft and natural, use no more than two or three shades darker. It is also important to remember that hair always lightens more on the top of the head. So, an easy way to remember placement is to place darker low lights LOWER on the head and the high lights HIGHER on the head. For this type of look it is less fuss for your client to have you strategically place the colors with hair extensions for a permanent look rather than using clip-ins. Your clients will enjoy and benefit from your knowledgeable placement of hair extensions to save them time and keep a consistent look to her color design.

Upstyle Hair Designs: Upstyle hair designs are perfect for weddings, proms, special occasions and any fun night out on the town. Many hairstylists use clip-ins, wefts and adhesive extensions to fatten up the hair and add haircolor accents for any upstyle. For example, skinny bangs can have new substance with hair extensions. Also remember that most celebrity upstyles are created with hair extensions, hairpieces, topettes and makeshift hair. As a professional hair extensionist, you should know how to do this so you can easily achieve looks from

keep the scalp area brushed. Provide them with a special loop brush to avoid tangles at the scalp. During the summer, it is most important to keep the hair conditioned and protected from the sun, just like they would their own hair.

Suggest that they use a specially formulated daily conditioner and a deep conditioner that will safely work with their hair extensions once a week, to protect and balance the moisture in their hair. Whenever using heat implements and appliances on the hair, always use a heat protector first. Recommend hats as a great protection, if your clients are taking a trip to the beach or if they frequent the pool.

With each new season approaching, remember that complete haircare consultations are the key to any successful client visit, with or without seasonal makeover and updates. To create personalized results, you will need to develop a consultation system and step-by-step questions to cover with the client. This should include a ‘new hair pitch’ with unlimited options. Clients are going to ask questions and you need to be able to provide every answer!

Hannah Mayo is a Marketing Director at Marketing Solutions, headquartered in Fairfax, VA.

11 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

12 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE MEP-90 Laser consultant, Jerod Prindable talks with Dr. Grant Koher, the lead researcher behind the clinical study that secured FDA clearance for the new MEP-90 medical laser.

In the last issue, The National Hair Journal reported that a laser system called the MEP-90 received FDA clearance for, “The treatment of androgenic alopecia in females by promoting hair growth of females with androgenetic alopecia who have Ludwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale classifications of I to II and who have been determined to have a Fitzpatrick Skin Typing of I to IV.” Once The Journal hit doorsteps, I was inundated with calls and emails regarding the level of effectiveness of this new medical device, its availability and what it took to secure the FDA clearance that has proven so elusive to some of the biggest names in the industry.

I could spend a lot of time outlining the multi-year process the proponents endured to prepare this study, but then I wouldn’t be keeping my promise to Journal readers. If you remember, I promised at the end of my last article to spend time this month going over the results of this landmark study, so this month’s article will fulfill that promise and take it one step further by bringing it to you directly from the physician that made it all possible, Dr. Grant Koher of the Koher Center for Hair Restoration.

In advance, I would like to thank Dr. Koher and his assistant Natasha Achterberg for their willingness to take the time to answer my questions and to provide an insight into what has to be one of the most eagerly anticipated studies in our industry. Dr. Koher’s practice is one of the busiest in the country, yet he never fails to dedicate time to help further the existing body of knowledge in the field of Hair Restoration. If you will recall, I mentioned in the last article that Dr. Koher received no monetary compensation for his management of this study. In the same way, his interview with me was offered freely in the hopes of expanding awareness of the benefit of medically supervised Laser Hair Therapy.

Jerod Prindable: Dr. Koher, how did you become involved in the research study?

Dr. Koher: My surgical coordinator, Natasha Achterberg, and I had been discussing research projects for a number of years. Then one day, following a medical conference in Nashville, Natasha approached me with the opportunity to conduct a study on the MEP-90. With the lack of research material available on lasers, especially when dealing with women, we were both eager to provide more science to this emerging technology.”

JP: Had you had any previous experience with Laser Hair Therapy?

Dr. K: I have had lasers in my Raleigh office offering LLLT treatments for a

number of years. I have always been impressed by the feedback I have received from my patients, but have been frustrated by the lack of any Jerod Prindable scientific information available to offer them.”

JP: Did you have doubts regarding the effectiveness of low-level laser light therapy?

Dr. K: After seeing the effectiveness over the years, I did believe in the technology, but I was always dismayed by the inability to quantify the results.

JP: Are you still using lasers in your practice as of today?

Dr. K: Since concluding the study last year, I have continued to use lasers with great results.

JP: Can you give us an overview of the steps and stages of the study?

Dr. K: It was a long process to set up a formal clinical study. We first had to design a protocol and have it approved through the Institutional Review Board (IRB). After this, we had to recruit and interview over 160 women in order to find enough qualified candidates. After finalizing our study subjects, we went right to work. All patients were marked at certain intervals and had their hairs counted in the designated areas at the end of every phase.

The first pictures were taken on day one for each patient before beginning treatment. Phase two was to begin at 10 weeks, phase three at 18 weeks and the study would reach completion at 26 weeks. This was a long and timely study for all involved; every patient received two treatments a week for 26 weeks.

JP: How did you screen the patients?

Dr. K: All patients were brought in the office and were required to sign an informed consent. Next, every patient would go through a 45-minute interview process in which any medical conditions that could mimic female pattern hair loss (androgenic alopecia) were determined, pictures were taken, and other medically relevant information was recorded. After this, I would review every patient’s application and determine who was eligible according to the guidelines approved by the IRB. JP: How were you able to track results?

Dr. K: All patients were marked and photographed by a special high magnification camera at predetermined phases. All photographs were then examined and a hair count was recorded.

JP: Was participating in the study difficult for the subjects?

Dr. K: The vast majority of the patients were able to easily fit the treatments into their normal routine, although a few of the participants with hectic travel schedules found making it in twice a week difficult.

My staff did their best to accommodate everyone involved by remaining open on Saturdays.

JP: Did you experience any roadblocks during the course of the study?

Dr. K: When first beginning, I had one patient have a surprise pregnancy.

JP: Were there any periods where the women became frustrated because they were not noticing results, and if so, how did this change over the course of further treatments?

Dr. K: I did not hear much frustration from the patients. The most common question I had from the majority of the women during the first few weeks was ‘when will my hair start to regrow?’ As the weeks progressed, this changed to gratitude for the opportunity to regrow their hair.

JP:Would you say that the level of response to the treatment was significantly different amongst the subjects?

Dr. K: The vast majority of the women all expressed their gratitude to me.

JP: Was it difficult for the women to talk about their hair loss? In other words, did speaking with a physician about their problem help them open up?

Dr. K: I found that patients often came to me asking questions that required a doctor’s expertise. I also found that many patients seemed to be more comfortable speaking to me about their hair loss as it is viewed as a medical condition in my eyes.

JP: Did you get the sense that women were more anxious about their hair loss than the men you have treated at your practice?

Dr. K: Over the years, I have found women to express a much more emotional response to the loss of their hair than men.

JP: Did you notice any change in this level of anxiety as they completed their treatment protocol?

Dr. K: I found most of the women to be much more comfortable with their current hair density.

JP: Do you think that Laser Hair Therapy should be considered a medical treatment and handled strictly by physicians?

Dr. K: I do feel that Laser Hair Therapy should be considered a medical treatment handled by physicians. While Laser Hair Therapy is a valuable treatment for women with female pattern hair loss, I do believe that it requires the accurate medical diagnosis of a physician. Many people are not aware of the other medical conditions that can mimic female pattern hair loss.

JP: Did you find that the women were happy with their overall experience with the laser? Did the treatments meet or exceed their expectations in the majority of cases?

Dr. K: The women expressed overwhelming satisfaction with the results they received.

JP: Can you summarize the results you obtained from the study?

Dr. K: After 20 treatments (Phase 1), 92% of the subjects presented an increased hair count of >10% with 60% having an increase of >30%. After 36 treatments (Phase 2), 96% of the subjects presented an increased hair count of >20% with 88% having an increase of >30%. After 52 treatments (Phase 3), 97% of the subjects presented an increased hair count of >20% with 77% having an increase of >51%.

JP: Those numbers are pretty eye opening. Were there any patients that did not receive benefit from the machine?

Dr. K: All patients showed benefit from the treatment. Not all treatment gave the same growth rates though. The lowest growth rates were two subjects presenting increased hair counts of 16% and 18% respectively.

JP: I imagine the readers are probably as astonished at the actual level of the results as I am. Were you surprised at the effectiveness of the results?

Dr. K: While expecting to see great results they did in fact surpass my expectations.

JP: How do you see lasers fitting in to the hair replacement industry for women?

Dr. K: I see lasers having an important role in treating female pattern baldness. I feel it is an excellent treatment especially for women who are not interested in a surgical intervention and don't want to wear a hairpiece.There are a large number of women out there with minimal hair loss who don't want an invasive intervention but still want to do something about it.

JP:Thanks again for your time Dr. Koher, and to you as well, Journal readers, for your ongoing interest in Low level light therapy.

Jerod Prindable is a laser consultant and IT professional. He is president of Prevail Technologies and advisor to Life Physics Inc., a company specializing in phototherapy solutions. Jerod serves on the laser advisory board of The National Hair Society and is a contributing editor to The National Hair Journal.

Is Your Salon Ready For An Eco Makeover?

Michael Angelo Offers Tips to Salon Owners on “Thinking Green” The Michael Angelo Hair Studio is owned and operated by Redken certified haircolorist Michael Angelo Rizzi. Over the years, Michael has been going green, “We are approaching a point where we will not be able to turn back easily” he states. “The big question is how do salon owners go about implementing eco-friendly routines?” In this article Michael Angelo offers -other salon owners some ideas for thinking green.

Be Green & Become Informed: Take note of any potential waste at your salon and prioritize your actions. You will not be able to change everything at once, so it is important to set priorities and to stay focused. A great way to kick-start your eco-routine is to start simple. If you have scrap paper, junk mail or a printing job that went wrong, cut the paper into sections, staple and use the blank back side as a note pad. Instead of using post-it’s, this fun and easy to do eco-tip will save you money and recycle paper at the same time.

Get Your Staff On Board: Hold a staff meeting and make sure everyone is on board with your eco makeover. Think of it as an opportunity for team building. Have your staff share ideas, brainstorm solutions and plan for improvement. A lot of people have already taken steps towards adapting to personal eco routines. Have them share their ideas and allow the action to transcend into the salon environment.

Save Your Energy: This can be as simple as using hairstyling appliances that cut down on drying time or turning off appliances when they are not in use. You can go one step further and unplug your electrical equipment as well – a lot of salon appliances waste energy even when they are not on.

Unplugging appliances during off hours will keep your energy bill down. You can also wash towels in cold water rather than hot water which will help reduce energy and your water bill.

Reuse and Recycle: Stop using clear plastic water bottles and cups. You should provide your staff with reusable eco-friendly containers that are good for the earth or consider a special self-serve water purifying unit.

Add your salon logo to the front of the bottles as an added marketing and branding benefit. For you clients, offer them water in chilled glasses reducing the energy to create ice. You can also look into participating in national recycling efforts. Organizations such as www.matteroftrust.org are dedicated to collecting hair from salons to create hair mats used to absorb oil spills all over the world. There is estimated to be over 337,000 salons in the US, with each on average producing 1 lb. of hair a day.

Go Organic: Offer organic and natural products as an option for your salon clients.

Organic and all-natural product lines have become increasingly popular. Having products like these available for sale in your retail section will also help increase your salon profits. You should also offer your clients organic snacks like locally grown fruits, vegetables, coffees and teas that help support the environment and local growers.

Talk to Your Clients about Environmental Tactics: Discussing your green ways with your salon clients is more than just good marketing. This can help inspire others to travel down the green road. A great way to let your clients know you are going green is to put up signs about your initiatives. Also, you can involve your clients by starting a recycling program and offering them rewards for participating.

The Michael Angelo Hair Studio design team has been honored as one of the ‘Top Salons in America’ featured in Haircut & Style Magazine.

13 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

16 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

The National Hair Journal PROMOTING

Medical Section

COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION

Medical Hair Restoration One Woman’s Life Mission Jonalee Schmidt is a breast cancer survivor and she is committed to helping men, women and children suffering from medical hair loss. After 49 years as a cosmetologist, she uses Jonalee Schmidt her accumulated skills to work with local hospitals, clinics and professional groups to bring hope and comfort to people in need. The Journal was privileged to attend one of her presentations and was so impressed by her breadth of knowledge and her commitment that it asked her to repeat the presentation for the benefit of Hair Journal Readers. Not only was Jonalee happy to share her knowledge, she also volunteered to share the custom forms and procedures she uses every day in her business. The following is an extract from our conversation.

When I started in the industry, there really wasn’t a medical hair restoration industry I’m originally from Chicago. We moved to Lima, Ohio 35 years ago because of my husband’s job. I am a survivor, which pretty much explains my commitment to helping others. Who would have ever dreamed that when I went through that trauma 23

Things happen for a reason – A year later, I was offered the possibility of buying a store just across from the hospital that sold mastectomy bras and breast forms. This was totally unexpected. It was like, I don’t do that; I do hair. But I did it. My daughter now manages that business, so I have a medical hair replacement business at HRJ Hair Solutions, plus a niche business with the breast prosthesis store. We’re only four blocks apart.

will develop cancer at some point in their life. The cancer treatments will result in hair loss in many cases. Add to these statistics the thousands of men and women who experience alopecia, disfiguring burns, trichotillomania and surgeries, and the medical hair loss market is huge. These are the clients I help. The psychological effect of hair loss and/or disfigurement is devastating. There’s a loss of self-esteem and quality of life. It hinders the very medical treatment that is designed to help them. The vast majority of these victims don’t know there are solutions and options available to help them overcome the stigma of hair loss.

They don’t know where to turn. Wig shops? No! The empathy and expertise is rarely found in a regular wig shop. They need to turn to professionals who have designed hair all their lives and now devote themselves to medical hair loss clients. We don’t sell hair in a box. We work with people. We discuss cosmetic solutions and insurance coverage. Our goal is to educate the medical caregivers, their patients and the local community about all the specialized services and options. We learn how to network with medical professionals and create public awareness through the media.

Doctors are catching cancers sooner because of tests like mammograms and PSA. Years ago nobody did these tests.

Now they do them routinely. I’ve been on the board of the American Cancer Society for 16 years. I helped introduce the “Look Good, Feel Better” program in the state of Ohio. I’ve seen things change drastically since that time.

It’s projected that 76 million Americans

Insurance is a can of worms - Most people simply don’t want to deal with the paperwork. Many physicians have a person who only does insurance; but how many hair centers can afford someone like that? We do provide guidance however.

I do it for the hugs. If you want to think of the business end, yes, it may increase the price point when clients know their insurance will reimburse part of their expenses.

years ago it would lead me to a career in medical hair replacement?

I was in the right place at the right time The American Hair Loss Council held their first conference at the Cleveland Clinic; I don’t know if you remember back that far, but it was like, “Okay stylists, put your good suit on, forget the hairdresser thing, we’re going to market hair to doctors and women’s centers.” That was my introduction to cancer centers and physicians. So when I became a survivor myself, I was already prepared. My brush with cancer gave me new insights into the psyche and emotional needs of hair loss patients and this became a passion and my reason for wanting to help others.

However, our overhead is substantial when you think of the networking expenses, the special education and the extended consultations. When you get all those smiles and hugs, it makes it all worth the effort We don’t sell hair to these people, we sell dreams; that’s how I look at it. I think the hair restoration centers in our country do a wonderful job, but I don’t think any of us could really talk to these people and understand their emotional state and insecurities without proper training. Without empathy, you cannot propose the right hair replacement solutions.

Most of the companies that sell hair prostheses offer training. It’s not just about going into a wig shop and popping a wig on your client’s head. The medical client needs the very best of your professional skills. Most major manufacturers run special workshops that explain the pros and cons of their products; I used to host workshops and offer private tuition myself, but now I mostly work with the big hair distribution companies.

Remember, your job doesn’t stop with the styling; there’s also a lot of paperwork.

It’s extra work, yes, and it’s not always easy, but this is a huge market that has been ignored for many years.

Don’t say, “Wig.” It’s a dirty word.

Insurance doesn’t recognize that word. It’s “Full-cranial hair prosthesis.” Insurance companies may reply, “You mean a wig?” and your answer is, “If you lose an arm or a leg, you replace it with a “prosthesis.”

If you lose your hair for medical reasons, it’s also a body part. (continued on pg. 18)

17 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

18 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Medical Hair Restoration (cont. from pg.16) So you replace it with a, “Custom, full-cranial hair prosthesis!”

Hair loss stops being a cosmetic problem and becomes a medical issue when it interferes with your life. When people stay in their homes and are afraid to go outside, it’s stops being a cosmetic issue.

Oh my gosh! She’s had chemo. The world sees a woman without hair and immediately says, “She’s had chemo.” That really hurts. People lose hair for all sorts of reasons. We work with burn victims and trauma victims. These are world-changing events and the psychological problems that go with it are horrendous. Then there are the trichotillomania addicts, the hair pullers. I have seven clients like that. They can’t help what they’re doing. It’s an obsessive/compulsive problem. But when they have their hair on, you know what, they can go out and work and look normal. People aren’t looking at them. We can’t solve everything, but we can fix their hair loss.

Number one, look like a professional. I go to hospitals. I bring brown bag lunches. I have four displays in two hospitals. I have them in cancer centers too. I can’t emphasize strongly enough how important it is not to go to these places to try and sell hair. You go to educate the oncology nurses. I do the “Look Good Feel Better” program. Who are we talking about?

Survivors. Some of them have hair and some don’t. So be involved. Explain solutions and choices. You have to give your time, but believe me; you will get it back double.

They say cosmetologists and bartenders should have psychology degrees. Make a point of visiting women’s groups and service clubs. I talk; I’m a Rotarian. I present at beauty shows and beauty schools right here in town. I want the students to know some of the things that can happen and what to do about them. They say bartenders and cosmetologists should have psychology degrees because those are the people that individuals seem to dump all their problems on. They’re probably right. We need to understand our clients’ vulnerabilities and know how to handle them.

Just because you’re old doesn’t mean it’s okay to not have enough hair. Spend time at senior citizen housing centers. You’ll be surprised how many elderly women there are who want your help. You need to have these connections.

Because I’m out there being involved and giving back, doctors and nurses know who I am before I call on them. We build relationships with doctors’ offices. We send them letters and set up appointments. Is the doctor always going to meet with you personally? Probably not. But it could be the head nurse or the office manager. Once in a while, you’ll find a caring doctor who will sit and talk with you because someone in his family suffers from medical hair loss, or perhaps it’s because he is a plastic surgeon and personally treats these patients.

Spas typically don’t want to get involved, but they need to know about us because their clients have issues and they need somebody to send them to.

Talk to plastic surgeons. Hook up with psychologists and breast prosthetic stores. The customer who loses her breast is also going to lose her hair because of the medication. There are two drugs that cause total hair loss, Adriamycin and Taxol and there are about two hundred others that cause thinning hair. So the breast prosthesis stores are places you definitely want a connection with, as well as drug stores and medical supply stores. They want to help their customers and they’ll let you put your brochures in their stores. Don’t overlook other professional groups like home healthcare agencies, churches, women’s groups, ethnic groups and local newspapers. Whenever I come back from a conference, I prepare a series of press releases. You want exposure anywhere and everywhere people talk about their health and their appearance. Cosmetic counters in Macy’s and Elder-Beerman and Sears - they all know what I do. If somebody has a problem, guess where they send them?

Libraries, hospices, endocrinologists, women’s leagues, pediatric centers; they are all valuable resources. What about fitness centers like “Curves?” People who care about exercising regularly also care about their looks.

Pediatrics is a huge area to open up. If you are in an area where there’s a children’s hospital,

offer your services. We do not have a children’s hospital here, but I still get visits from child hair pullers and alopecia victims. It requires a special kind of training to work with six or seven-year-olds. If you are in an area where there’s a children’s hospital, make yourself accessible, maybe donate hair prostheses to people who can’t afford them. Pediatrics is a huge area.

Rest in Peace. We have four funeral homes that call us all the time. Often families want their loved ones to be buried looking their best. And that means with hair. We don’t charge big amounts. We sometimes use our used wig bank.

It is a huge commitment, but once your professional connections are established, you’re on solid ground. I get back with everyone about once a year, but most of them call me regularly to ask for more brochures. When you hand out brochures, always make sure they’re in a plastic stand. If the clinic lays them down somewhere on their desk or on a table in the waiting area, they’ll fall in the cracks or other magazines will be laid on top of them and they’ll get lost. You’ve got to stand them up in those little plastic stands so people will see them.

This isn’t for everybody. There are people who enjoy helping and don’t get turned off by the personal stories and distress. My first burn victim, oh my Lord. I could barely work the rest of the day I was so upset. But they were counting on me and I knew I could help them.

My professionalism was being put to the test.

Later, I got a beautiful letter and a picture of an angel to put on my wall. I felt very humble. We become very special to people like this because we are giving them back their life. But again, it’s not for everybody.

Guidelines for filing insurance claims. Every state is different. That’s the tough part. But I can share a few generalities for filing insurance for a full-cranial hair prosthesis. When somebody comes to my salon, I have printed guidelines that I give them, like a script. So when they call the 800 number for their insurance they can say, “I am going to get a custom, fullcranial hair prosthesis. I have a prescription from my physician. Does my policy cover it?”

So everybody does it right up front. The insurance company can only answer “Yes” or “No.” If they say yes, it’ll normally cover up to $175.00, but don’t hold me to that. There’s a benefit booklet all insured patients have; they can look under “prosthetic devices” to check their individual coverage and then call their insurance company to get a claim form and have it signed by their physician. They need a prescription from their doctor. The doctors know exactly what to do. The prescription is written up for a “cranial prosthesis” on a standard prescription form. I actually had prescription pads put together and printed up. We fill out everything and my client simply takes it to her medical provider. All the physician has to do is sign his name. To get reimbursed, your client also needs a paid sales receipt. We have special receipt pads with triplicate copies. They give our corporate name and the nature of our business. I keep one file copy and the other two are for the client. She can keep one for taxes and send the other to her insurance. I also have a letter of necessity that explains why the prosthesis is necessary. My letter takes a whole page. Everybody does things differently. So, to summarize, you will be sending four items to the insurance company: your letter of necessity, your prescription, a paid receipt and an HICFA 1500 Form.

Other things that could help a claim. There are companies that help people with their insurance.

Look in your phone book and you’ll find them.

Other things that could facilitate your claim… a letter from your employer stating the importance of wearing a prosthesis to work. Take a picture of yourself without your hair. That will immediately show your claim is not for cosmetic purposes.

Insurance claims agents are better educated now, but they still can’t visualize someone without hair. A personal, handwritten letter describing your emotional feelings can also help, as could a letter about different kinds of hair loss from the National Alopecia Foundation. There are so many areas to touch on. Keep a copy of the prescription and paid bill for tax purposes. You can write that off if you itemize your taxes. Medicare in Ohio does not pay for hair, so if somebody has an insurance company that only pays what Medicare pays, it’s not going to pay for your hair.

If your claim is denied, you can ask for an appeal if they say it’s a not-covered benefit.

19 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010 10 people working in the same company may all have different coverage. Five of those people will have coverage for their hair, the other five won’t.

Depends on what level you are with the company.

They all have different levels of insurance. You can ask for a review by a medical review board.

You can ask for a written explanation as to why it was denied. Most insurance companies want the provider to send an official appeal. We are providers, just like a physician or massage therapist. We have CPT codes for hair. A custom, fullcranial hair prosthesis in the U.S. is E1399 code.

Non-Taxable. The cost of a wig is a medical, deductible expense. You never charge tax for a

thetic prosthesis to tide them over until their own hair has reached three or four inches. No, I don’t sell them $3,000.00 human hair. A lot of companies do that, but for something that’s going to be used for under a year, I have a hard time proposing that. When my client’s hair reaches threeinches, I’d recommend a neat haircut that she can style and use a semi-permanent hair color, if necessary. If I had somebody with permanent hair

best for you. I try to promote always hand-tied tops. I seldom promote machine made. Like all cosmetologists in this industry you learn to read people. Most of the time when they come in you know who you’re talking to, what their pocketbooks can handle, and what’s going to work for them. If they hand you a Medicaid card, you know what not to do, and might even have some freebies that you can offer. Every salon has hair that they don’t plan to use, it might be a cancelled order or a custom piece that didn’t fit or a return because someone is deceased. We don’t give them to everybody, but again, when someone has a Medicaid card or if doctors send someone when they know they can’t afford hair, we try to find a way to help them. We clean and restore used wigs and hairpieces and put them in Baggies. We share them with the oncology offices. They have a basket of these refurbished wigs and yes, they’re taking money away from me, but we’re helping someone in need. God bless. I don’t care. It all comes out in the end. You have to give to get back.

medical prosthesis if you have a prescription.

Don’t include hats or hair accessories on your medical billing. You don’t want to push the insurance companies so don’t include headwear and hats, even if you do sell them to medical clients.

I also work through established charities. We also are doing two children right now with free hair systems. There’s a lot of time involved getting approvals with charities and usually the kids have to be 18-years and under. That doesn’t help the adults though. Once in a great while if I have someone with a special need and I have I’ve had something on my shelf for awhile, maybe I’ll do a very mild markup send them home for half the normal price. It’s something personal. You don’t want to make a habit of it. You run a business and you have to pay the rent, the mortgage, etc. But there are people we do that for. My reward is being able to help people. That’s why I’m here.

What kind of hair system or wigs should you offer to a medical client? Do you go for a premium product, or, if it’s going to be worn temporarily, do you go with something that is cheap that they can throw away when the medical experience is behind them? It all depends on the client.

I had a consultation yesterday with someone who will have four treatments of Taxol. When it’s all over, her hair will start returning after one month and it will continue to grow a half inch a month.

So if you start counting on your calendar, within a year this person will have a decent amount of hair back and be very happy. For someone in this situation I would suggest a reasonably priced syn-

Jonalee Schmidt is a certified hair restoration consultant, cosmetologist and business owner (with her husband) of Jonalee’s “The Image Center,” HRJ Hair Solutions and “The Ritz…Intimately Yours” (post mastectomy boutique). For over 35 years, she has committed herself to enhancing the image of her clients with professionalism and teaching her staff to do the same. Jonalee is an accomplished educator and has lectured and taught for Cosmetology schools and prominent hair replacement companies. She was instrumental in developing the Look Good ~ Feel Better

loss, I recommend a top quality product.

I hate to say it, but today many more young women are going through chemotherapy. It is sad, but true. I see almost as many in their late 20’s, early 30’s as I do women in their 50’s and 60’s.

They tend to have longer hair and I choose not to promote long synthetic hair. So I’ll be very honest and explain if you really want your long flowing hair back and you want to feel like you’re 29 again, then high quality human hair is going to be

Program in Ohio and was presented the “Sunrise Award” from the State of Ohio.

Jonalee is on the American Cancer Society Board of Directors, Mercy Hospital Foundation board and is a past board member of Transitions International. She and her husband have received Chamber of Commerce “Entrepreneur of the Year Award.” Her goal is to touch the lives of people and give them back their dignity and self-esteem.

John Ohanesian says farewell to Bosley After twenty years at Bosley and nearly nine years at Aderans Research Institute (ARI) John Ohanesian bid farewell to the company he had grown to the world’s most experienced hair transplant group.

John is seen here at his farewell dinner at

John Ohanesian(ctr.)Ken Washenik(left) & Armen Markarian

The Pacific Design Center in Los Angeles with top executives Ken Washenik, M.D., Ph.D., Medical Director and Armen Markarian, COO. Ohanesian first joined Bosley in October 1990 as its President, working closely with founder Dr. Bosley.

After eleven years of sustained growth, Bosley became a part of the Aderans family in August of 2001. John Ohanesian was also the founding President and Chief Executive Officer of Aderans Research Institute; the most recognized and advanced follicular regenerative medicine biotech company in the field today.

NHJ

20 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

A WORL D OF CHANGE

By Lisa Dresser We live in an age where everything is constantly changing; from phones to computers to the cars we drive. We now

want my style to be current and different every day. As I stated earlier, I have become a hair addict and have collected many different hair additions and addons, so I am able to get ready in a matter of minutes versus hours, which accommodates my busy schedule.

My clients look forward to my everchanging hair and many of them have copied me by investing in hair additions of their own. Over the years, we have explored lots of different looks together using hairpieces or add ons to quickly change their mood or appearance. They love how quick and easy it is to look good and usually end up buying more than one piece. I am fortunate to have

even have 3-D TV! But it’s not just the hi-tech industry that’s on the move; I have seen a huge change in the beauty industry as well. Men and women are showing a desire to constantly modify their own looks to keep up with the modern times and trends.

And as hair specialists, we have the tools and the talent to help them do just that.

My first love as a hair stylist is to help people who don’t have hair, or may have “bad hair.” I understand how they feel and know that some type of makeover can be life changing for them.

Though this is important and rewarding, we also have to address the client who simply wants a temporary fix or simply a change of pace. I've been wearing different hairpieces for the last 20 years and have become somewhat of a “hair addict”. I wasn't born with the hair I wanted, but then again, how many of us were. My hair has a tendency to be thin and lifeless, so I've creating pieces for myself that are custom colored and cut to match my own hair perfectly.

been able to use a personal passion to help so many people solve their hair issues using hair extensions and hair integrations. In fact, this now consumes most of my free time.

My “addiction” is fun and gives me great pleasure. So you can I imagine

by got2b hair products and US weekly Magazine. In fact, I actually won the grand prize - a trip for two to a Hot Hollywood Red Carpet Event which included airline tickets, hotel accommodation at W Hollywood Hotel, a $500 shopping spree, and the opportunity to attend the after party at the Drai’s night club put on by US Weekly Magazine.

This was a wonderful experience but I couldn’t have done this without the help of On-Rite who supplied the hair for the photo shoot.

The moral of my story? Follow your passion. Welcome change. I encourage you to express yourself by trying new things. If you have any down time, utilize it to come up with something that’s artistic and creative. You never know what might happen!

As a working mother, I don't have a lot of time to do my own hair, but I still want to look as good as I can. I also

how excited I was to learn that I had won an online styling contest, “Hot Hollywood Hair-Do Rescue,” sponsored

About Lisa Dresser - I wasn't supposed to be a hairstylist; my long-term goal was to have a career in nutrition or exercise physiology. As a backup plan I thought that cosmetology might be a fun and interesting career so in 1984 I decided to go to cosmetology school in Ogden, Utah. I enjoyed it so much I ultimately settled on hairstyling and never looked back. In fact, I enjoy it so much that you will usually find me at work even on my days off. I continue to attend classes educating myself and bringing back new ideas for my clients. I recently won an online hairstyle contest with Got2be products (the OnRite Company graciously donated the hair). My main focus is making the average woman look a little more beautiful or change a person’s look as often as she changes her mind.

Anyone who knows me knows I have a different look for all my different occasions. My husband and I have been married for 16 years and we have 2 wonderful children, our son Dayton who is 15 and a daughter Braydn who is 11.

NHJ

ODE TO A HAIR LEGEND Scalps Tingle at Nino’s poetry reading Anthony Provenzano is the owner or Anthony’s Hair Salon on fashionable 5th Avenue in New York City. He is also a distinguished writer and poet.

On May 19th Anthony recited his Sicilian Poetry at the Club, Player's Gramercy Park South with English translations read

by Emmy Award winner, actor Michael Badalucco, and playwriter David Risk.

Nino, as his close friends call him, is Vice President of Arba Sicula, an international organization that promotes Sicilian culture in the world. His passion for poetry, which blossomed early in his childhood in Sicily, has accompanied him throughout his life.

He has recited his poetry at universities such as St. John’s, Hofstra, Stonybrook, Fordham, Westchester Community College, Montclair College in NJ, and at the World Congress of Poets for Poetry Research and Recitation, among other places. For his poetical activity he has received numerous awards in Italy, Canada and the USA. Anthony is the author of two published collections, “Vinissi” (“I would Love to Come”), and his newly published book “Tornu” (“The Return”). He has also done translations from English to Sicilian for the movie “Mac,” directed

by John Turturro, and worked with Spike Lee in the movie “Summer of Sam” by training the actor John Leguizamo for his role as a hairstylist.

Anthony also trained Emmy Award winning actor Michael Badalucco for his role as a barber in the movie “The Man Who Wasn’t There,” directed by the Coen brothers.

Nino works in his hair salon on Park Avenue and 57th Street in Manhattan and is a member of The National Hair Society. He lives in Long Island with his wife Josephine. He counts many famous names from the world of opera and the performNHJ ing arts among his clientele.

21 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

FLASH REPORT New PR Book for Medical Hairloss Professionals - “The Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon's Guide to Obtaining Priceless TV, Magazine, and Other Media Exposure.”

Tired of seeing doctors less qualified than you on TV? Then this book is for you! It will guide you through the media maze and teach you how to position your practice and prepare yourself for media attention. Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeons around the world are all clamoring for the same thing... the elective patient. Media savvy doctors know that the best way to capture that elective patient is through appearances on TV and articles placed in newspapers and magazines.

Available at Amazon.com, Borders.com and BarnesandNobel.com or call: (949) 768-1522 or email pr@theprofessionalimage.com

Thermal Power Protect Your Clients’ Hair From The Heat With Paul Brown Hawaii Honolulu, Hawaii- Paul Brown Hawaii puts the power of heat control in your hands with Thermal Power, a professional haircare product that protects the hair from harmful UV rays and harsh thermal heat.

This humidity-resistant hair color and thermal protector adds a protective layer to the hair shaft, enveloping it with kukui nut lipids and a special blend of silicones to prevent damage from heated styling tools.

A powerful protector, Paul Brown Hawaii Thermal Power also shields the hair from UV rays to prevent hair color fading. This is a great product for people who live active lifestyles and are looking for a thermal protector that is easy to use and provides amazing results. Thermal Power conditions the hair, leaving it silky smooth, shiny and easy to style. The highly unsaturated oils of the kukui nut help to maintain the precious moisture balance necessary in creating radiant, healthy hair.

For more information on Paul Brown Hawaii and Thermal Power, call 800-338-0033 or visit www.PaulBrownHawaii.com.

Fresh! Volumizing Dry Shampoo A Fast Fix for Hair on the Go! Pravana announces Fresh! Volumizing Dry Shampoo which works by ‘dry’ cleaning the hair with natural anti-bacterial ingredients that target, attack and eliminate odor causing germs. Natural absorbents trap and remove oils, leaving hair fresh and replete with volume. The dual-action formula is dry, weightless and works without the use of water on those days when there isn’t the time or place to wash, dry and style.

Pravana President Steve Goddard contends, “With the jam packed schedules and the breakneck pace of our lives – sometimes there isn’t enough time for the conventional shampoo and styling regimen. For those days, we’ve come up with Fresh!”

Portable and convenient, Fresh! can be used anywhere at any time to keep hair fresh, luminous and voluminous in between washes. Simply spray it on, brush it through - and hair is gently and beautifully restored. Fresh! Dry Shampoo uses the power of nature and science to ‘dry’ clean hair – leaving it refreshed, revived and rejuvenated PRAVANA, from the ancient Sanskrit, means the source of all things. The company is headquartered in Woodland Hills, California.

NHJ

The Fascinating Fickle Follicle

By James Britt We cut it, color it, curl it, straighten it, bleach it, perm it and burn it and in many other ways abuse it, but do we really understand it?

Hair, and the basic process of cell communication, which causes our hair to grow and then self destruct, is one of the most complicated and fascinating biological systems in our bodies. “It’s also an excellent model for how cells throughout the body differentiate,” says Dr. Elaine V. Fuchs, a molecular geneticist at the University of Chicago. “If you can really understand the developing hair follicle and how it communicates with the matrix of cells around it, you can understand cell interactions throughout the body.”

If the hair follicle is fascinating, it is also frustrating. It generates hair in abundance in places where we want it the least, while completely disdaining those places where we desire it the most.

It has a tendency to zig when we want it to zag, lay flat when we want it to “poof,” turn gray almost overnight and

stand on end one day, only to be seduced by gravity the next. All in all, the average person has approximately 100,000 hair follicles on their head, most of which seem to remain in a constant state of rebellion. The problem is so much a part of our culture that we’ve even ascribed a follicular term to those days on which we seem to be losing the battle to manage our hair.

To better understand the hair follicle, we must first understand the hair growth cycle and realize that at any given time, all 100,000 of our hairs are in a different stage of their programmed cycle. The active growing, or anagen phase, lasts 4 to 6 years, after which, over a threeweek period, the follicle begins to wither and is separated from its blood supply. This is the catagen phase. It is at this point that the hair follicle begins a 90 day “resting” period called the telogen phase before it begins to renew itself; (the hair follicle is the only body part that degenerates and renews itself throughout life).

The regeneration process begins as derma papilla cells at the base of the new follicle divide and begin to move upward to create a sheath inside the follicle. The sheath protects the follicular channel and shapes the new hair cells, which are compressed into a hair shaft of structural proteins known as keratins.

These keratins harden as they migrate to

the surface through the follicular channel where they emerge at the surface of the scalp as a new hair. It is interesting to note that Caucasians, as a general rule, have oval shaped hair shafts, while Blacks have flat ribbon shaped shafts, and Asians have round tubular hair shafts.

On average, the new hair shafts, which are essentially dead tissue, grow at a rate of one half inch per month. Whatever the shape of their shafts, very few people seem to be happy with the hair that nature gave them. Individuals with straight hair…want curly hair, people with curly hair want straight hair, and people with red hair want blonde hair.... and so on. Hmmm…., maybe it’s not our follicles that are fickle after all.

NHJ

HAIR RESTORATION PRACTICE FOR SALE Long established hair transplantation physician retiring in So. Calif. A chance to be a total hair loss solution provider and expand into the medical field. Add Hair Transplants to your cosmetic surgical practice. TURNKEY: Physician will teach.

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22 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Hair Society News www.nationalhairsociety.org

Website The Society website is finally released.

Visit www.NationalHairSociety.org to share your news and views with other members. The site will grow and expand as we receive your suggestions and feedback. Use it to join The Society or learn more about what it has to offer. The Society also offers its website to Hair Journal readers who want to renew their subscriptions online.

Headlines It has been a busy time for members of The National Hair Society.

Board Director, Lucinda Beaty flew to Germany to attend the BVZ conference, while Lisa Zimmernan travelled to L. Beaty Canada for the Transitions annual meeting. All this in addition to the regular workshops and conferences organized back here at home.

Our Educational Faculty was busy also as you will see from the articles you will find in this issue of The National Hair Journal.

Look for great how-to tips from Jimmy (“The G e n e r a l ” ) J. Toscano Toscano, marketing insights from Lisa Zimmerman and a L. Zimmerman technical commentary from Lucinda Beaty.

Giving Back

By Gigi Ford Bishop Ernestine Reems is founder and senior pastor of Center of Hope Community Church in Oakland, CA. She’s been a pastor for more than 39 years and is known G.Ford for developing ministries that feed, clothe and shelter people in her local community and around the world. Last summer, Bishop Reems celebrated her 80th birthday, but you wouldn’t know it. One reason is that her hairstyles make her look years For younger. more than 30 years I have Bishop Ernestine Reems designed hairpieces and prostheses for Bishop Reems that are undetectable in photos, TV interviews, in the pulpit or when she greets and hugs her church family members. Since 1996, Bishop Reems has worn a special Series Alteration I designed to take the place of a weave. We were spending five to six hours doing a hair weave, where the alteration now only takes an hour. I chose a full head alteration with a lace front and light golden brown base color, alternating light golden blonde and light reddish brown for the highlights. The light golden blonde around the face and the combination of highlights make Ernestine look younger.

Gloria (Gigi) Ford lectures globally and is published in Hair & Beauty magazines. She offers workshops and seminars on hair replacement and a mentoring program. She has amassed a vast collection of DVDs and recently published books. Gigi advises stylists to “Invest in yourself and become an expert in client satisfaction.”

The African-American Chapter wasn’t sitting on the sidelines either. Edmarie Masters was a featured educator at the 8th Annual Spectrum International Beauty Expo in Los Angeles. Edmarie, a certified master hair replacement specialist teamed up with World Olympic Winner in Hair Design, Brenda Knox to teach New Techniques in Hair Design, How to Customize a Stock System and How to

I Didn’t Know That!

u In ancient Rome, men sometimes painted hair on their bald heads?

uEach individual hair survives for an average of 4-1/2 years uWash hair with Pellegrino after stepping out of the ocean to refresh sandy tresses. The bubbles in sparkling water work even faster than shampoo and remove salt water quicker than plain water.

uThe thinnest skin in the human body is in the upper eyelid

uThe only place in the human body where skin is stuck to skin without any fat or other tissue between them, is in the nostril. uThere is a secondary sexual organ in the nose between the nostrils. uThe human liver can regenerate itself if a piece is taken, like a lizard's tail. uThe second highest concentration of nerves, after the brain, is located in your gut. uBright lights can make your nose swell, and so can sexual activity. uThe first rhinoplasty was performed in 500 B.C., in India. uEvery person has a unique "tongue print" just like fingerprints. uThe average human sheds 105 pounds of skin by the time they reach 70 years old.

Save Money and Repair a Hair System.

Edmarie recently released a new educational DVD. It’s available for sale to licensed professionals.

Read also how Gigi Ford changed a life in her candid article.

uThe human nose can recognize 50,000 different scents. uWhen you sneeze, the droplets can travel speeds of up to 100 miles/hour.

Our thanks to Dr. Ashkan Ghavami a rhinoplasty expert for some of the more obscure factoids.

K is for Keratin Wanda Patterson is the founder and owner of the Wanda Patterson Beauty Studio. She is a hair designer, make-up artist, eyelash and brows specialist, a motivator and an educator. She specializes in all phases of progressive hair extensions, non-surgical hair replacement for men, women, and children and customizes haircuts, styles, and designs for the client’s facial structure and lifestyle.

She practices all phases of hair coloring, hair maintenance and hair growth treatment for all hair textures and ethnicities. She recently became a Keratin fan.

National Hair Journal: Wanda, you offer an extensive range of hair styling and maintenance services. How did you come across keratin treatments?

Wanda Patterson: I have a diverse clientele with many different hair textures. I had been experimenting with different straighteners and deep conditioners with great success for some time, but my hair addition clients began asking if the new keratin procedures could be used on their extensions also.

I use the best hair supplier on the market, but I still pre-treat all my systems to make them look and feels as good as possible. It doesn’t matter if it’s a hair unit or a hair extension; I always go that extra mile and do intense treatments, color enhancements and clear shines to make the hair look and feel natural. When my clients leave, their hair looks amazing. Unfortunately, most of them cannot keep it that way however, even when you give them a complimentary session on how to maintain their hair system and send them home with a maintenance line. I go to most of the major hair shows so you can imagine how excited I was to come across Silkening Technologies Pro Collagen Rx Keratin Treatment by Biage. They promised healthy, silky, shiny, smooth hair - even on hair systems - so I decided to check it out.

NHJ: Everyone promise silky hair; what happened back home?

WP: Several benefits. The work and time I used

to put into the units is now cut in half. These products deliver smoother hair systems without the fumes and smoke I used to inhale from some of the other products. You are able to customize the treatment according to how you want the hair to be. You don’t get a “wiggy” shine; it’s a natural healthy shine. The hair artist customizes the treatment to their liking to smooth the hair and eliminate frizz.

It’s a reconditioning treatment that can transform both new and old hair systems, wigs and extensions. It is also color friendly. Clients love this treatment. Their systems stay looking fresh and alive until they return for their next visit.

NHJ:Obviously, this is a benefit to the client, but what does it mean at the salon level?

WP: There is less maintenance for the clients. My biggest benefit is cutting the time in half that I used to spend reconditioning tired hair systems. Clients get a reconditioning treatment that transforms damaged hair and stylists get a new profit center; everyone is happy.

NHJ: Let’s pretend I’m your client. I’m a man wearing a hair replacement system and I don’t take care of it. When I come in, my hair is damaged because of the salt water at the beach. What can you do for me?

WP: In my consultation I would definitely suggest a Pro Collagen Rx Keratin treatment. You would be the perfect candidate. This product will recondition and transform your system. The more you treat your hair system with this product, the healthier it will look. The results are immediately visible after the keratin treatment. At a recent convention, I performed a demo on a six-year-old unit. I took the worst beat-up unit I could find to demonstrate to hair artists how they can restore their client’s hair systems. It doesn't matter what the hair texture is like or whether it’s growing out of your scalp, or if you bought it. I can show clients how to take better care of their investment.

NHJ: So clients now have a choice. They can do it the slow, old-fashioned way or they can do it the Keratin way.

WP: Right. Except it’s not really a choice. In the past, I would keep the client’s system to condition

and reconstruct the hair and perhaps add a color shine or a clear shine. For a tightly coiled or an overly curly system, I would have to soften the system with a relaxer before proceeding with the conditioning treatment. This is still an option, but the keratin treatment is faster, looks better and lets the customer keep that fresh salon look for months at a time. Like I said, it’s not really a choice.

NHJ: Walk us through the process of a Keratin treatment. You have just taken off my hair system and I am reading the newspaper. What is happening in the back room?

WP: First, I use the Pro Collagen Rx clarifying Shampoo. Depending on how damaged your system is, I would treat your system with the Porosity Control Hair Mask and Balancer, which is rinsed out after 10 minutes. Next, I would lightly blow dry your system and section the hair. I would then apply the Keratin treatment. After the treatment has been applied, I would blow-dry the hair with a vent or metal round brush until it is 100% dry.

Depending on your hair texture, color and desired hairstyle, I would style the system with a roller brush or use a flat iron at 450 degrees.

NHJ: How do you apply the Keratin treatment?

Are you spraying it in, brushing it in or washing it in?

WP: We apply the Keratin treatment with an applicator brush to the sections I have created.

NHJ: How long does this take?

WP: It should take about an hour for a regular hair system if it’s already cut. It may vary depending on the length and texture.

NHJ: When you bring the hair back what will your client notice?

WP: His or her hair system will be revitalized.

They will find it feels different and looks smooth and shiny.

NHJ: How much does a client typically pay for this?

WP: That depends on the salon policy and its physical location. Typically, hair artists charge between $250 and $300, but some salons charge more.

NHJ: So this is a new profit center for every salon - hair replacement and beauty salons?

WP: Absolutely, not only is your revenue definitely going to increase, but your clients will be happy too.

NHJ: Now you mentioned earlier that not all Keratin treatments are created equal. What sets them apart?

WP: First of all the formaldehyde.

When you use the Pro Collagen Rx Treatment there are no fumes. You don’t smell anything and there is no smoke. At the show, many people were surprised that there were no fumes or odor. They were allowed to do some blow-drying and flat ironing themselves so they could see first hand that they would not be inhaling any chemicals.

NHJ: Who created this product?

WP: What I love about this product line is it was designed by hairdressers for hairdressers. They can relate to what we are looking for in the market place. Their education is impressive also. The company will come into your salon to train and certify you. They also have amazing DVDs. Sharon Gibson is the artist on the DVD and she walks you through the treatment step by step.

NHJ: To summarize, keratin treatments are the modern way to restore the natural texture and appearance to damaged hair. There are several keratin products out there, but you recommend finding one that does not give off fumes or chemical byproducts.

WP: This product is designed for all hair types. It can be successfully used on curly, frizzy, wavy, straight, and tightly coiled hair. These textures are found all around the world, in every culture and race. It works great on chemically relaxed, thermo styling; color treated and of course, damaged hair.

The treatment does not grow out or wear off. I’m NHJ a huge keratin fan!

23 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Universe of the Stars Beverly Hills, 06/01/2010 – Executives from Aderans US subsidiaries gathered in Beverly Hills to celebrate a major restructuring and the launch of a new, centralized marketing program.

Mr. Tadao Otsuki, President and CEO as he welcomes company guests from Aderans Hair Goods, Aderans Research Institute and Bosley and announces the company’s goal of becoming the nation’s top total hairloss solutions provider.

Ready for Prime Time Virtual Reality Reveals the Power of PR What do you do when the economy goes soft on you? Or when the cost of TV advertising goes through the roof? If you’re Lance Centofanti, you rev up your PR machine. Always an optimist, and never one to hold back on his marketing, Lance bought an airline ticket and headed to New York City to meet with some of the top editors of men’s and women’s magazines and look for microphones. His message? Virtual

Mr. Masahiro Otani, Chief Financial Officer for Aderans America Holdings, Mr. Norihiko Ishiodori, Executive Officer in charge of Supply Chain Management Office Aderans America Holdings, Mr. Vern Liebmann, Vice President, Operations Aderans Research Institute, Mr. Misaki Shimada, Executive Officer in charge of Internal Audit Office Aderans, Mr. Mutsuo Minowa, Executive Officer in Charge of U.S. Project Aderans

Reality/Virtuesse is a fashionable, non-surgical hair loss solution that is demanded by celebrities, celebrity stylists, and movie directors. And the media ate it up… with a little help from PR agency, Tractenberg & Co. Mr. Misaki Shimada, Executive Officer in charge of Internal Audit Office Aderans, Mr. Mutsuo Minowa, Executive Officer in Charge of U.S. Project Aderans, Mr. Christopher Webb, Publisher National Hair Journal, and Mr. Rob Spurrell, VP of Sales and Marketing Bosley

Mr. Masahiro Otani, Chief Financial Officer for Aderans America Holdings, Mr. Mutsuo Minowa, Executive Officer in Charge of U.S. Project Aderans, and Mr. Tadao Otsuki, President and CEO, Aderans

Virtual Reality/Virtuesse has now been featured on the news and in makeover shows from coast to coast. Good Morning America, Movie and a Makeover, the Montel Williams Show, NBC, ABC, and Fox local news have done over forty segments featuring the brand. Modern Salon, Details Magazine, even the stately New Yorker, have featured articles on Virtual Reality in their pages. It has also been editorialized in American Salon and Good Housekeeping.

To quote Centofanti, “We have choices to make. Wow or wuss? Extraordinary or extinct? Different or dead?

Consumer attention is the most coveted commodity. Without attention nothing else happens.” Centofanti is aware that the leading brand in every market segment enjoys a huge advantage. Branded products make up 13 out of every 16 major purchases and charge 30 percent more than store brands on average. That’s why he is committed to expanding consumer awareness of the VR/Virtuesse brand and differentiating it from its competitors. He understands that a key part of that effort will also require raising the overall perception of the hairloss industry. In his own words, “Success is never an accident. It is always the result of higher intention and skillful execution, driven by a uniting purpose.”

They don’t call Lance Centofanti, “The Energizer” for nothing. “Taking the path less traveled is never without some risk and never easy; but its always the difference maker” he says.

Mr. Armen Markarian, Chief Operating Officer, Bosley and Ken Washenik, MD PhD, Chief Medical Officer, Bosley and Aderans Research Institute

Ms. Onkyo Sthair, VP of the Revlon Division and Mr. Kosei Tanaguchi, VP of the Rene of Paris Division

Cyber-Summer CyberHair dealers gathered in Las Vegas to celebrate Cyberhair’s 15th Anniversary and discover

no drag and dries just like natural hair. For clients seeking a tan, CyberHair resists sun damage

HairUWear divisions Virtual Reality® and Virtuesse® have retained Tractenberg & Co., a full service public relations firm based in New York City. Tractenberg also works with HairUWear’s Hairdo Collection by Jessica Simpson and Ken Paves, Great Lengths Extensions, Raquel Welch Wigs, and Put on Pieces.

the medical market is expanding and needs the professional expertise and understanding of cosmetologists as well as doctors. Other presenters included Michelle Schumm, O'Neal Carson, Patricia Julkowski, Dick Hegener and Erik Heneka, from Cologne, Germany who discussed the latest attachments that are being used in Europe.

After the formal dinner on Saturday night, Peter Gensler and Darla Smith recognized top Cyberhair dealers and presented them with special achievement awards. Also seen in these pictures is Daryl Grecian receiving his Salon of the Year trophy from National Hair Journal publisher, Chris Webb.

Peter and Darla at Awards Dinner

Awards Dinner

new products and marketing opportunities.

Special guests from Aderans included Mr. Mutsuo Minowa, Executive Officer in charge of U.S. Projects and Mr. Misaka Shimada.

With summer approaching, International Hair Goods vice president, Darla Smith, pointed out that CyberHair loves water; salt water, rain chlorine and humidity do not affect its body, color or texture. CyberHair also floats through water with

IHI Staff

while it protects the scalp from burning and UV radiation. In fact, after 15 years of improvement, Darla claims, “CyberHair is made for summer!”

She also noted that the “Amy's Presence” collection has been superseded by “Private Issue,” with a new range of styles and designs.

A key presentation was made by Jonalee Schmidt, who talked about “Understanding the medical hair loss client.” Jonalee explained that

Jane Genesi’s Jim McGowan Award Winner

Meeting Speaker Garrison Wynn

Daryl Grecian, Salon of the Year Award Winner

Micro Point Solutions hands on class

24 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Which Hair is the “Best “Hair?

By Lucinda Beaty Choosing the right hair type for your clients will keep them happy and coming

Lucinda Beaty

back looking for more choices. But remember, it is not only about choosing the correct color; it is about texture and style as well. And once all those aspects are considered, you must also factor in your client’s daily routine, seasonal activities and what they expect their “hair” to do for them. What makes these decisions difficult is the scarcity of quality hair on the market today. The availability of human hair has dropped drastically over the years; which means the cost has risen dramatically. I was warned to expect this over ten years ago and that prediction has now

come true. That’s why I began seeking new sources and other types of hair.

The harvesting of hair in most countries is becoming more and more difficult. This is especially true in India where the religious ceremony of “sacrificing hair to the God’s” is diminishing. Furthermore, due to changing lifestyles, the quality of the hair is not as good as in past years. Much of the longer length hair is being used for extensions. You need to exercise due-diligence while working with different manufacturers because the less professional suppliers do not always tell you how they process their hair, what other treatments they apply and if they use textile dye for color.

Using chemicals to de-cuticalize human hair is a standard process used by most manufacturing companies. How much cuticle is left on the hair determines the integrity of the strands. The more cuticle remaining intact on the shaft, the more labor intensive the ventilation process will be - which raises the cost. Cuticle Hair has to be ventilated in the same direction or it will tangle and knot. The extra time spent making sure all aspects of this procedure are perfect is the reason for the price. It is so detail oriented that it is important not to rush the process.

This is extremely important: being informed, educated and honest allows you to present responsible hair addition alternatives to your clients. I have gone on many factory tours including Japan, Thailand and have just recently returned from the BVZ conference in Germany where we gathered information about the latest technology and new products. These insights allow my staff to create ideas for marketing and choose the correct solutions for our clients. Your business is no different; “You need to have many tools in your toolbox.”

Your “Hair Wardrobe” can consist of many options. As a starting point, it is pertinent

to know all the product types available to us as professionals. When it comes to human hair, these are the types to look for:

ing high heat fibers. These high heat fibers are the latest in today’s technology. They can be straightened, or curled at various temperatures, using irons, hot rollers or

Virgin hair - hair that has never been chemically altered European hair - hair that has been slightly processed to remove the cuticle and/or color, but has full integrity. Supposed to be from Europe, but some “European” hair, commonly called “Euro Hair” MAY even be a blend of hair from different regions including China and Indian.

Remy hair - hair in which some of the cuticle has been slightly removed but still has integrity.

Processed hair - chemically processed to remove significant cuticle and color so it can be ventilated easily. Textile colored for consistency. “Wow, that’s a great price.” Most extensions and wigs are made out of this type of hair.

Other solutions to consider are man made fibers. These fibers vary in material, texture, weight, durability and cost. There are many new fibers in today’s market, includ-

even steam. These fibers feel natural, whether they are dry and wet, and are weightless, durable and fade resistant.

They are labor intensive to produce and ventilate, resulting in a higher cost.

25 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

As with manufacturers of human hair, you need to be educated and hyper aware when working with manufacturers of man created fibers. There are many fibers and choices available such as nylon, toupelon, polyester, betex, kanekelon, and modacrylic, protein hair. There is also available a blend of human and man made fibers. In a future article, I will explore and explain these fibers in more detail.

“We make a difference in peoples lives”.

By belonging to organizations such as NCA, BVZ, National Hair Society, and Hair Loss Council along with our suppliers, we will make our industry better.

Hopefully, in time, by working together with manufacturers through education we will develop a mutually beneficial relationship.

Lucinda Beaty, owner and operator of Lucinda's Hair has been working with hair additions & extensions for over 30 years.

She is a respected educator for national and international companies and a member of the Alopecia Areata Foundation as well as The National Hair Society where she sits on the board of directors. A "pioneer" in the hair and hair replacement industries, she is a member of the American Hair Loss Council, a 30 year member of the National Cosmetology Association, a 20 year member of the Connecticut Hair Fashion Committee (teaching guild for advanced cosmetology) receiving honors as a Progressive Leader in Education, member of National Organization of Women Business Owners, and a 20 year Chamber of Commerce member. In the year 2000 she was awarded the Business Consumer Education Award by the CT Better Business Bureau.

Lucinda has toured factories where the latest technology in hair replacement systems is being created, including CyberHair in Thailand and Japan.

Get It Right the First Time

By Jimmy “The General” Toscano I've been getting calls lately about some of the problems many of you are having. They concern hair systems, cleaning, bonding and other issues. In this article, I'd like to highlight some of the most common problems and how to avoid them.

Choosing the right hair system - How do you choose the correct hair system for your client? With so many options available, it can be confusing. First, make sure you know your client's lifestyle. This is crucial when choosing a hair system. If you client lives in a warm climate, likes to work out or does a lot of outside activities, you may want to choose a lace system or a thin skin. You also need to consider your client's chemical make-up. Does he/she have an oily scalp?

Does your client want to be bonded or just taped down? Many salons use one system for all their clients. Don't get stuck in the "one hair system fits all" rut!

Tape or bond - Again, know your clients and their needs. If the client is oily, a softbond may not work well. However, there are some bonds on the market that will work.

One bond is not right for everyone. Don't be afraid to try different bonds on your client. If the bonds don't work, some of the tapes will.

Be flexible and let your client know that you'll try different bonds to find the best one to accommodate their needs.

Seating the hair system - For full-head softbond or track-bonding, seating the system into the adhesive is a crucial step. Just "pushing" the hair system into the bond will not insure the proper hold. Make sure to

have your client pull the hair system down with a towel. Fold the front of the towel onto itself.

Place this on the front hairline. Gather the rest of the towel on each side and have your client pull down until Jimmy Toscano you feel the towel start to stretch (place your hand on the client's head so you can tell him how hard to pull down). Let your client hold the towel in this position for 5 minutes.

Undervented hair/Removing a lace system - One important step in removing a lace system that has been full-head bonded is to spray scalp cleaner directly through the hair onto the base. After a few minutes, you'll see that the system will release from the scalp.

Once released, you can take the system off and it can then be cleaned. If you are having trouble with underventing on your hair system, it's because you didn't spray the remover down through the hair and wait for the base to release. If the base is still attached in places and you pull the base up, the hair will pull down through the base. This is not the manufacturer’s fault - it's yours.

Soft-bonds not holding - What is the one element that will break a bond down fast?

Oil! Oil to a technician is like germs to a surgeon. So often we're sensitive to this fact, yet we forget all the places that can contaminate our hands with oils. From the doorknob to your tools, be vigilant in keeping your tools and your station free of oils. One drop can ruin a bond.

Cleaners - Hair systems - Regardless what cleaner you use on the hair system, once the adhesive has been removed, there are specific shampoos designed to remove 100% of the cleaner. These shampoos will return the hair system to "brand new". If you are not using these shampoos, you may not be removing all

the cleaner from the base. This may cause a reaction on the client's scalp. With a lace system, a lace gun is a MUST. A lace gun will remove all the adhesive and oils from a lace base so that you "can eat off of it."

Cleaners - Scalps - All scalp cleaners are not made equal. We find a lot of scalp problems are not from adhesives or the fault of the technicians. Many of these problems arise from the products being used to clean the scalp. Many of the new scalp cleaners are pricey, but they have no acid or citrus-based solvents. I don't know who came up with the idea of putting a citrus-based cleaner on the scalp, because the acid in it is too harsh. So, if you are having problems with clients' scalps, this could be the major cause.

If one or more of these issues is happening in your salon, you really need to consider continuing education. The hair replacement industry changes constantly - new products, new hair systems, new techniques and procedures. Are you staying abreast of all this information? It is vital to the success of your business to come to the continuing education seminars.

As always - perfect isn't perfect unless it's perfect.

James Toscano (“The General”), a Pennsylvania native, is an eighth-generation hair stylist. He graduated from barber school in 1968 and has been building his hair-management skills ever since. Always in high demand at industry events, he is a Technical Advisor to New Image University and Educational Development & Style Director for Spectrum Salon Systems of Nebraska. He also consults for Professional Hair Labs of Tampa, FL, assisting in the research and development of surgicalgrade adhesives for the hair replacement industry. Jim maintains a 60-hour workweek, but still finds the time to write a series of educational articles for The National Hair Journal.

Offer Your Patients The Benefits Of Laser Therapy New Pilot Program Life Physics, a leader in laser research is exploring a new program to assist medical clinics that wish to take advantage of the latest developments in low-level laser light therapy.

The pilot program will: u Place an MEP-90* class II medical device in your clinic - the only laser cleared by FDA for female pattern hairloss. u Train your laser technicians. u Provide you with educational articles and reference material. uProvide you with professional marketing materials.

To qualify, your clinic must have an established business base and provide medical oversight. Use of the MEP-90 laser is by prescription only.

For more information about this collaborative program, or to inquire about buying or leasing a MEP-90 medical laser, call 866-424-7937 or email,

info@lifephysics.com

26 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

Hot Times at the On Rite 2010 Conference Ft. Lauderdale - Nearly 300 people, representing hundreds of hair replacement studios and salons across the country, attended the On Rite 2010 Conference at the Hyatt Bonaventure in Weston, FL. Spirits were

The fact is, hair restoration for many potential clients is a very considered purchase. Our experience at National Hair Centers is that some consumers may think about hair restoration for months, even years before they purchase. That’s why at NHC we have instituted a consistent, on-going marketing program targeting our lead base.

On Rite clients check out the latest industry innovations

Grand Ballroom. The show then broke out into three simultaneous sessions, including ‘Blazing Braids and Bonds,’ ‘Hair Freedom,’ and ‘The Cascade Effect.’

Taking care of business Concurrent with the flying hair and flashing scissors, were a series of business classes geared to owners, managers and sales professionals. One of the most enlightening was presented by Rhonda McCarthy regarding On Rite’s, “Recover with Confidence,” a turn-key program that allows studios to compete successfully in the medical hair loss field.

Other business and sales focused presenters covered medical hair loss, women’s consultations, “Out of the Box Marketing”, men’s consultations, web marketing

On Rite staff and clients enjoy hand rolled cigars provided during Saturday night’s cocktail reception

high at the reception held in the Society Lounge on Saturday evening. Featured were an open bar, passed hors d’oeuvres and a master cigar roller who made over 200 cigars for the party goers.

Sunday, definitely not a day of rest On Rite COO David Schwartz opened the conference by thanking everyone for their perseverance battling airline delays and promised to make it all worthwhile

By Lisa Zimmerman When people decline to purchase from you, for one reason or another, are they saying, “no” or are they really saying, “not right now?”

A company postscript

On Rite hosted almost 300 clients during the 2010 Annual Conference at the Hyatt Bonaventure in South Florida

Consistent Marketing To Your Lead BaseA Key To Success!

On Rite clients inspect a full line of ladies wigs

Our lead base consists of people who have requested information and may or may not have been in for consultations but have not yet purchased. Right now, our base consists of over 13,000 names and addresses. We continually “purge” the list to ensure that the addresses are correct. The cornerstone to the marketing program is a quarterly direct mail campaign. We rotate the size and type of mailer each quarter.

Utilizing brochures, postcards, and direct mail letters, the content of the mailers are designed to keep the potential client informed about NHC and our current promotions. Another element of the program that has proven successful for us are e-mail blasts. We send out as many as two e-mail blasts per week. We rotate between image blasts and e-mail messages backing up our quarterly promotions.

The response of the campaign has been very gratifying. In 2009, 20 percent of our new sales came from people who were in our lead system for one year or longer. And, the percentage has been building every year since the implementation of the program. Of those who purchased in 2009, 25 percent had been in our lead base for five years or more. One new transplant client was in our lead base and had first contacted us ten years ago!

The key to the program is consistency. We have found it can’t be an occasional thing. For optimum results, the messages to the consumer have to be regular and must present a consistent image of the company. So if you’re looking for a way to maximize your profitability in 2010, take a good look at your lead base. A consistent on-going marketing campaign to your leads is what makes all the difference!

Grand prize raffle winner Libby Dibartolo from Pharaoh’s Hair Design in NY The 2010 On Rite Annual Conference opened with a high energy expo to the delight of all

A scene of packed classes was common to both days of the conference

Mario Rispoli demonstrates The Cascade Effect

with a day and a half of education, and information.

On Rite President, Andy Wright then took the stage and reminded the conference that hair replacement is a fashion-oriented business and that fashion is cyclical; he noted that the trend to shaving heads was no longer in vogue, and the men’s business was headed for a new upswing.

And on the main stage…

Keynote speaker, Robert Stevenson, the author of two motivational books, one of them a best seller, pointed out that in order for the hair industry to flourish, retail owners must focus on the “wow” factor of customer service and ride a new wave of success through strategic planning.

Let the show(s) begin A series of sizzling stage shows and hands-on demonstrations began with a high-energy hair expo in the

(from the Media Power Company), On Rite marketing programs and the ever-popular Rob Hoffman (sales, marketing and consultations).

No rest for the weary Just as things were winding down, it was time for the crowd to gear up for the evening. The night began with a cocktail reception, followed by dinner, dancing, and casino gambling. Also of note was a video montage commemorating On Rite’s 35th year in business. “I really enjoyed the video”, said Bobbi Russell. “It was great to see photos of my friends from On Rite and fellow studios… it just made me feel good about being part of this business.” Finally, the grand raffle-drawing winner for $1,000 was announced, with the lucky Libby Dibartolo from Pharaoh’s Hair Design in NY taking the prize.

Lisa Zimmerman, is the owner of National Hair Centers, one of the nation’s top full-service hair-management centers. She also sits on the Board of Directors of The National Hair Society and is an active member of the Transitions group.

Grabbed by the Short and Curlies!

Here’s a shopping bag idea that should turnheads.

The morning after David and Rhonda opened the second day to a full crowd with a lighthearted commentary on the previous night’s dancing and gaming. On a more serious note, the first morning sessions featured a demonstration of Ultratress II and UltraStrands extensions, a presentation of men’s full head bonding and precision cutting, and luxurious women’s European hair. A second group included the women’s ethnic market, medical hair loss, and woman’s long hair bonding. On Rite business consultant, Doug Spike commented, “It was gratifying to see that what we presented truly resonated with our studios.”

The long good-bye In their closing remarks, David Schwartz and Andy Wright commented that the boundaries between supplier and retailer have become blurred over the years and today the relationship is more interdependent. “On Rite goes out of their way to make their conferences special”, said David Richey, Images of Princeton, NJ. “It’s a lot of fun, sure, but they provide a level of education and information that really charges you up to get back to work. Not to say I wouldn’t have enjoyed a few more days around the pool”, Mike Bellino, Images of Cherry Hill, NJ quickly added. Andy Wright concluded by saying that one of the great values of the conference is reacquainting On Rite personnel with the clients they speak with each week, but only get to see once a year: “It reinforces our desire to increase our client’s business through innovative designs, explosive marketing ideas, NHJ and the highest level of customer service.”

THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL Mission - Mission - To provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will allow better business decision-making and facilitate superior client service.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Technical Advisors Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin

Contributing Correspondents James Britt Marilyn Dodds Steven Dimanni Dawn Harrison Phil Fennell Gloria Ford Bobbi Russell Larry Sellars James Toscano Marilyn Wayne

Society Membership Director Heather Simon hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com

NE Regional Director Catherine Ingoglia

CA Regional Director Edmarie Masters

European Director Hans Diks SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe to The National Hair Journal, send an Email to subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com or visit www.nationalhairsociety.org/store. You can also write to us at the address at the bottom of this column or call 1-951571-3209.

ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 1-951256-4385 HOW TO CONTACT US National Hair Group 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563. Telephone: 951-541-2809 news@nationalhairjournal.com subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com advertising@nationalhairjournal.com LEGAL NOTICE Notice: The National Hair Journal , Issue number 54 Copyright ©2010. All rights reserved.

The views expressed herein are those of the individual author and are not necessarily those of The National Hair Journal, its editor, directors, or staff. All authors have been asked to disclose any and all interests they have in a product, procedure or device referenced in, or otherwise potentially impacted by, an article. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee, or other representations, express or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided.

To the extent permissible under applicable laws, The National Hair Journal specifically disclaims responsibility for any injury and/or damage to persons or property as a result of an author’s statements or materials or the use or operation of any ideas, instructions, procedures, products or methods. Moreover, the publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair Journal a guaranty or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or of any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser.

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The National Hair Journal is published Quarterly, Copyright©2010 by The National Hair Journal, LLC, Single copies of most past issues of The National Hair Journal are available prepaid at $10.00 per copy.

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27 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010

28 The National Hair Journal Summer 2010