FOOD | TO-GO BOX
TASTE TEST Baseball is a team sport, so when we heard through the grapevine that new foot-longs were on the menu at the ballpark, the following three Inlander writers trekked out to Avista Stadium and did a little market research.
FULL COUNT
Hot dogs don’t need to be fancy to be good. On the rare occasion I’ve gotten one from a street vendor or at a sporting event, taste is dependent upon a properly steamed dog in a soft, slightly warmed bun. That said, the faintly sweet, brioche-style bun on both the Reuben and Chicago dogs was a nice variation and sturdy enough to hold up to sloppy toppings, but the dog itself was not hot enough. Visually, the Chicago dog appealed most with its combo of red, green and white. I also liked the tangy dill spear and white onion against sweet relish, although the missing sport peppers would add the punch you’d expect from a dish named after Al Capone’s hometown. I have no problem with ham and pineapple cohabitating, e.g. on my pizza, so I’d be willing to give the Hawaiian dog a go if it reappears on the menu. In the meantime, the $4 regular dog was priced right and fulfilled my once-every-blue-moon craving, especially when slathered in ketchup, relish and mustard. (CARRIE SCOZZARO)
NOT A GAME CHANGER
The Indians’ hot dog offerings come down to a value discussion for me. While the Reuben dog is immediately forgettable (the sweet dressing is interesting, but its kraut and cheese are almost flavorless), the Chicago dog is a very good food offering for a minor league park. While not exactly a true Chicago dog (I’ve had those at Cubs and White Sox games), it’s a quality bun loaded with toppings without feeling messy, and the flavor gets fully unlocked when you add mustard. But that said, neither are worth $13.50 to me. So on return trips, I’m much more likely to get the unremarkable but half-decent concession stand hot dog, since it’s priced perfectly ($4) to be an easy ballpark snack. (SETH SOMMERFELD)
They go through a lot of hot dogs at a typical Indians game.
WINDY WINNER
Give me a standard-issue ballpark hot dog, some onions and mustard (and maybe an Altoid for later), and I’m happy. With some of their new supersize specialty dogs, the Indians are reaching for snack-game greatness. Having sampled both the Chicago dog and the Reuben dog, the Windy City wiener is the clear preference, even as it lacked the electric green relish, sliced tomatoes, tiny peppers and poppy seed bun that a Chicago native would expect. The bun was soft and pleasingly crusty, and there was a great dog-to-bun ratio. I’d add mustard if I ordered it again — and bring a friend to help finish. My first Reuben dog experience was mostly perplexing. The sauce — maybe a Russian dressing? — had a nice flavor, but the sauerkraut made the bun soggy, and the slices of cheese would be more appealing if they were melted. I’ll save my Reuben consumption for the Irish pubs going forward. (DAN NAILEN) n
Gold Standard Spokane-area wineries bring home medals, plus restaurant openings and transitions of note BY CARRIE SCOZZARO
A
s many admirers of the Craftsman style know, the moniker implies the very pinnacle in handcrafting, from the utmost attention to detail to extreme depth-of-knowledge about materials and process. That’s the philosophy behind Spokane-based CRAFTSMAN CELLARS (1194 W. Summit Pkwy.), which recently took home two double gold awards in the 2021 Seattle Wine Awards. “We’re pretty excited about this since we only submitted three wines, and two of them were awarded double golds,” says Margo Shelman, who coowns Craftsman Cellars with husband and winemaker Greg Shelman. Craftsman’s 2017 cabernet sauvignon and 2017 malbec are those award winners in the annual competition, which is open to any wine — including fruit wine — or mead produced with grapes from a Washington American Viticultural Area (AVA). Additional Spokane-area wineries recognized include Arbor Crest, Barili Cellars, Cougar Crest Estate Winery, Liberty Lake Wine Cellars, Maryhill Winery, van Loben Sels Cellars and Winescape. Awards were also presented to Sandpoint-based Pend Oreille Winery, as well as Hierophant Meadery. Visit seattlewineawards.com/ results.
Craftsman Cellars wines took double gold medals recently.
OPENINGS
TRANSITIONS
The lights are on at NEON PIZZA, Northern Quest Resort & Casino’s newest eatery located at the complex’s north family entrance. Look for New York-style pizza — cheese, pepperoni, supreme or margherita — as well as a handful of burgers and other classic American fare. The vibe is ’80s music, complete with a retro video game arcade. BOIADA BRAZILIAN GRILL (245 W. Spokane Falls Blvd.) introduces diners to what is traditionally a lengthy meal of all-you-can-eat dishes. The rodizio churrasco ($40.95/lunch; $57.95/dinner) features a rotating selection of proteins from lamb chops to filet mignon to bacon-wrapped chicken, carved and plated at your table. It also includes an all-you-can-eat assortment of vegetable and fruit salads, starches like bread and mashed potatoes, soup, and traditional Brazilian fare like feijoada (black bean and pork sausage stew). The new restaurant, located in the former home of Maracas Mexican Restaurant, offers a full bar with wine, beer, cocktails, including Brazilian drinks like the caipirinha with rum-like cachaça, lime, and passion fruit ($12.95). Visit boiadabraziliangrill. com/menu-spokane.
COURTESY PHOTO
The Pizza Co. North Spokane (9225 N. Nevada St.) has rebranded to THE MANGO TREE - NORTH SPOKANE. The new North Side eatery offers the same menu as its downtown location, featuring Indian and Pakistani cuisine and offering daily lunch specials ($15). This is the third Mango Tree restaurant in the region since 2018, when Rakesh Kaushal opened the first Mango Tree in Coeur d’Alene. Info at facebook.com/themangotreeNS. You heard correctly: STELLA’S CAFÉ (19 W. Main Ave., inside Saranac Commons) has brought back its popular McRuins menu. On Mondays, when many other places are closed, Stella’s serves up restaurateur Tony Brown’s spin on, well, whatever he’s got a mind to that day. Expect the unexpected: fishwiches ($13), Taco Bell-like soft tacos ($7), Northern Thai poutine ($12), Twix bars deep-fried in Dr. Pepper batter ($6). Visit instagram.com/_stellasrestaurant. n To-Go Box is the Inlander’s regular dining news column, offering tasty tidbits and updates on the region’s food and drink scene. Send tips and updates to food@inlander.com.
JUNE 30, 2022 INLANDER 31