The Indoor Gardener Magazine - Volume 2 Issue 1 - Jul-Aug 2006

July / August 2006

GOING OUTDOORS

Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors Choosing A Soil: A Few Types Of Soil

INDUSTRY

Dr. John A.A. Thomson Of The Vitamin Institute Receives Lifetime Achievement Award

PARA LUMEN PARADIGM SHIFT

High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth Side by side Trial: Satellite Fluorescent Light II vs Metal Halide Light Price: $5.95

Volume 2 — Issue 1 www.indoorgardenermagazine.com ISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly

INDOOR WATER FEATURES

Tips And Tricks To Succeed In Adding A Water Element To Your Indoor Garden

PLANT FOODS – Part 3

Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many?

Subscribe and

WIN

See page 50 for details

CREDITS

Publisher: Managing editor:

Contributing editors:

J.M.

We apologize if some of

Bruno Bredoux editor@indoorgardenermagazine.com

the products featured

Helene Jutras, Jessy Caron, Fred Leduc

by our writers in our “Shopping” section have offended our readers,

Anna Kanaras

distributors or advertizers.

Bruno Bredoux

The products’ use could

Collaborators in this issue:

Aquafood (Uruguay), Aquasculpture (Montreal), Kari Bayne, Bruno Bredoux, S.C., Martin CaldeyroStajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.), Jessy Caron, Stan Daimon, Gary G., Herb Gardner, Daniel Gingras, Dave Guillemette, Hedi Green, Vertuda Green, Grigg, Paul Henderson, Edward Jackson, Helene Jutras, Bordy Lachance, D. Lesage, R. LaBelle, Fred Leduc, Dave Michal, P. Steph (Summum), Red (Hydro-Sciences), Sols & Paysages, Frank Pohl, William Sutherland, Patrisha Thomson, Travis Thomson, vieux bandit, Charles Winslow.

Sales & advertising:

On the cover: Magnolia flowers in an eastern Montreal backyard, May 2005.

Volume 1 – Issue 6 Page 48 & pages 62-63:

Editorial coordinator:

Art Director:

Green Publications

Translation/Copy editing: Cover design:

Illustrations: Administration: Information:

be misinterpreted.

The Indoor Gardener Magazine is not responsible of the misinterpretations made through their use. The articles appearing in this magazine are the sole and exclusive responsibility of their authors.

Volume 1 – Issue 5 • In the “Plant Foods, Part 1” article, at page 28, the Arisaema Candidissimum

Stan Daimon stan@indoorgardenermagazine.com Hedi Green sales@indoorgardenermagazine.com

photograph is not by

Helene Jutras

from its image collection.

Linear Measure (imperial to metric) 1 inch 1 foot (=12 inches) 1 yard (=3 feet)

2.54 centimetres 0.3048 metre 0.9144 metre

Linear Measure (metric to imperial) Imperial 1 millimetre 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 1 metre (=100 cm)

0.0394 inch 0.3937 inch 1.0936 yards

Volume (imperial to metric) Metric 1 (imperial) fl. oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 1 (US liquid) fl. oz. (=1/16 US pint) 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl. imperial oz.)

1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl. US oz.)

1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts)

28.41 ml 29.57 ml 568.26 ml 473.18 ml 4.546 litres 3.785 litres

Volume (metric to imperial) Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 1 litre (=1000 ml)

0.176 pint 1.76 pints

Mass (imperial to metric) 1 ounce (=16 drams) 1 pound (=16 ounces) 1 stone (=14 pounds)

28.35 grams 0.45359237 kilogram 6.35 kilograms

Mass (metric to imperial) Imperial 1 milligram 1 kilogram (=1000 g)

0.015 grain 2.205 pounds

Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8.

To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.

Jessy Caron as indicated, but by the Australian Bulb Association, and comes

At page 29, the water-lily photograph is not by Jessy Caron as Anna Kanaras after a photo taken by Bruno Bredoux in Montreal, Canada.

indicated, but by an unidentified student of the Pacific Lutheran

Anna Kanaras

• In the article on ballasts, the photographs were not captioned

R. LaBelle

properly. Here are the proper captions: 1) High Yield Lighting’s

submit@indoorgardenermagazine.com

Cool-Star, 2) H&M Heat Exchangers Inc. Electronic HID-6000,

THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINE Postal Station Saint-Michel P.O. Box 183 Montreal, QC, H2A 3L9, CANADA Tel.: (514) 728-8118 Fax: (514) 728-1840 www.indoorgardenermagazine.com ISSN: 1715-0949 © 2006, Green Publications, Montreal, Qc, Canada Articles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.

Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005.

National Library of Canada.

Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.

ISSN: 1715-0949

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Photos: From the manufacturers

Published by:

Conversion Table

ERRATA

Volume 2 – Issue 1 July / August 2006

1

University in Tocama, WA.

3) Life Light Technologies’ electronic high frequency HID ballast,

8

4) Hydrotek’s Starlite ballasts, 5) Biofloral’s CSA-approved Supernova ballast, 6) Brite-Lite Econobox, 7) Hydrofarm’s Lumatek & 8) Sumaster’s convertible ballast.

We apologize to the manufacturers and assure them that this layout problem has been fixed for the publication of the French version of issue 5.

3

The Editors

6

7 4 2

5

TABLE OF CONTENTS Volume 2 — Issue 1 / July — August 2006

6

Editorial

The Farmer In The Dell

By Bruno Bredoux

7 The Eyes of a Rabbit

By Helene Jutras 8 Introduction

Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors

By Paul Henderson Choosing A Soil: A Few Types Of Soil

By Sols et Paysages

14 Notes & News

48 The Test : The Satellite Fluorescent Light II Test

By Charles Winslow

52 Plant Physiology

More Roots, More Fruits

By Red from Hydro-Sciences

54 Cooking :

Gary’s Grand-Mother’s Sourish Red Cabbage Recipe (Transmitted through oral tradition)

55 The Hydroponic World

of

North America

Dr. John A.A. Thomson Of The Vitamin Institute Receives Lifetime Achievement Award

By Travis and Patrisha Thomson

56 Book Rewiew

Adding Biology In Soil And Hydroponic Systems

The Benefits Of Consuming Local

By Hedi Green

58 HESI Products :

Preserving Nature In Panama

By Helene Jutras

19 Tips & Tricks :

Seed Germination

By Bordy Lachance

CRW Mulch

By Jessy Caron

22 Simplified Hydroponics

As An Appropriate Technology To Implement Food Security In Urban Agriculture

By Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.)

By Dave Guillemette

By Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D.

A Formula Adapted To Growth And Flowering

By V.G. and S.C.

60 Shopping :

Horticultural Novelties A Selection Of Products That Caught Our Attention For This Summer

By Kari Bayne, Vertuda Green, S.C., D. Lesage, Helene Jutras, P. Steph & Jessy Caron

65

Q&A

One Question… Two Answers!

By Fred Leduc & Herb Gardner

Photos: Panama FFA, B.B., Bibion & Parigramme Éditeur.

28 Morphological Change, Physiological

Development Perfume, Always 30 Indoor Water Features

By Edward Jackson

With The Collaboration Of Aquasculpture, Montreal

32 Gallery

38 Plant Foods – Part 3

Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many?

By B.B. & William S.

18

38

44 An Ecological Solution Against Fly Problems

By Daniel Gingras

46 Para Lumen Paradigm Shift

High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth T5 and TT105

By Charles Winslow

44

54

EDITORIAL

“The farmer in the dell The farmer in the dell Hi-ho, The derry-o The farmer in the dell The farmer takes a wife The farmer takes a wife Hi-ho, The derry-o The farmer takes a wife ...” ____________________ Traditional – 18th Century

After an entire season of indoor gardening, we might be tempted to stay under the neon, metal halide lamps, high pressure sodium lamps and what else... all these new lighting products offered by the hydroponic industry to shed some light on our indoor crops are once again to be found in the pages of this new issue of The Indoor Gardener. But, see – a ray of sunshine, a long Memorial Day weekend, and I end up spending my days with my hands in dirt, perfecting my urban flower beds. There is no better pleasure than manipulating dirt, putting my hands in the tepidness that announces the renewal of all things...

Our farmer in the dell will not be alone! In the woods he will meet adventurous gardeners, wanderers looking for wild species for their small gardens, looking for strange botanical adventures. A day of rain, and here I am in the woods, looking for species of ferns to plant under my lilac. A cloudy day, and there I go to greenhouses and nurseries to compare perfumes and colours, to associate perennials and annuals...

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

The Farmer In The Dell

A sunny day that predicts many more and you’ll see me bringing out my rosebay, my geraniums and my begonias out on the terrace – but in the shade, for a progressive adaptation to the outside world.

In this issue, The Indoor Gardener takes to the woods. We will compare the fertility of soils, analyze their content, discuss their characteristics – we will dare to leave our almost brand new hydroponic equipment in the basement, even though last fall it seemed to us the best toy ever, an absolute musthave... Germination, perfume, lithosol, soil pH, root mass ready for transplant... those are some of the words and themes that you will find throughout this issue, an issue that begins a new season, a second year for the magazine. Yes, dear readers, The Indoor Gardener is... coming out!

Bruno Bredoux The Indoor Gardener June 2006

Nephrolepis “Sword Fern”

Photos: Modes & Travaux Archives, Jandigo & Nan Hai Plant Ltd

Editorial

The Eyes Of A Rabbit

By Helene Jutras

I could not tell you how this so-called piece of information reached his brain, but when he was about four years old, my stepson would repeat, meal after meal, that carrots were good for his eyes and would, if he ate enough of them, give him “night vision”. Now no parent wishes to take away any piece of information – true or not – that makes a child eat his vegetables, but his father and I were somewhat puzzled. And for cause! Our child’s brain had been infected by a powerful myth that stems... from the British Army!

In August 1940, during the battle of Britain, fighter pilot John Cunningham became the first person to shoot down a German plane with the help of the radar – which was being used on a widespread scale for the very first time. Cunningham was the Royal Air Force’s best pilot during World War II, with a total of 20 kills. His night vision was legendary, and he was nicknamed “Cats’ Eyes”.

Since the Germans had not yet developed radar to the same level as the British (nor had any other nation until then), they did not understand why they were losing so many aircrafts and had no clue that it was the use of radar that permitted the British to locate Luftwaffe bombers in the dark – and the RAF, obviously, wanted to keep its secret as long as was possible. So it put a story in the British newspapers, claiming that John Cunningham and his fellow night pilots owed their exceptional night vision to an unusually large consumption of, you guessed it, carrots.

Some even claimed that the RAF had developed a carotene-enhanced carrot for its pilots. Citizens, upon reading these reports, started cultivating and eating more carrots – they figured it would help them navigate the streets during the frequent blackouts and attacks.

So do carrots have any effect on vision? You bet. Carrots are rich in beta-carotene, which the body converts to vitamin A, and vitamin A is crucial to maintain normal vision. In fact, a severe vitamin A deficiency can lead to blindness: there are currently 118 countries struggling with a preventable blindness epidemic, affecting mostly children, that is due to a vitamin A deficiency (which also leads to skin problems and stunted growth). UNICEF and the World Health Organization, among others, are fighting back.

Photos: news.bbc.co.uk

In North America and Europe, however, a healthy diet does not carry any risk of vitamin A deficiency – our food is vitamin-enriched to begin with, and we are more, though not very likely to suffer the consequences of an excess of vitamin A – ranging from birth defects, to headaches, vomiting, double vision, hair loss, bone abnormalities and liver damage.

In the meantime, where do I start to debunk this myth for the resident child here? A long long time ago on a continent not so far away...?

INTRODUCTION Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors

By Paul Henderson

Photo: Bruno Bredoux

CHOOSING A SOIL A Few Types Of Soil

By Sols et Paysages, © UMR LISAH Montpellier

A) FERTILE SOIL

Red calcic clayey-loamy soil. The silt on the clay offers good potential. In depth (over one meter), we find good water drainage, a high exchange capacity and good water reserves.

Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.

Clayish grey soil with pseudogley (characteristic of prolonged water saturation or periodic waterlogging areas), too sandy. The heavy texture is visible on this picture: the dirt seems “cut” by the knife.

Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.

Naples, Florida, December 2005

The key to success in an outdoor plantation rests mainly on the choice of its location.

When moving from hydroponics to soil outdoors, one needs to take many factors into account in order to preserve the benefits, qualities and characteristics that the plant has accumulated during its growth in a hydroponic system. Aside from these, it is important to ensure that the three elements essential to a good outdoor crop be available to the plants and accessible from the chosen site. Those three essential elements are water, light, and the type of soil.

Water Water, of course, in the source of plant life.

It must be near the site. Its composition must then be tested with a pH meter and a PPM meter. If the water is too acidic, too alkaline or too saline, difficulties will quickly arise for your crop.

Stagnant water, usually found in swamps, is very often acidic, and should be avoided. The aquatic life of a lake, river or brook always indicates its water quality. If there are many frogs, fish and plants, it is an obvious sign

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

that the water is good. Trout are sensitive to pollutants such as metals and chemical products, so their presence is a good omen.

Trout do not adapt to a pH level that is too high or too low – the same is true for the indoor plants we transplant outdoors in broad daylight.

Light Light is directly linked to the final yield of an outdoor crop. More light leads to a higher yield. Light is the first link in the chain: a lack of light will prevent nutrient absorption because the plant will not transpire enough.

The plant will then decrease its CO2 intake and its growth will be stunted.

If the plant lacks sufficient light, the yield will likely be disappointing, no matter what other care you have provided.

Light also gives plants the flowering signal.

It is thus very important that the plant get as much light as possible. We recommend a minimum of six daily hours of direct sunlight.

INTRODUCTION To provide your plants with as much sunlight as possible, use a minimum treeless surface that is 15 meters wide and 30 meters long.

Choose a location such as a clearing with a length-wise east/west orientation and a width-wise north/south orientation, and plant on the length, on the north side.

The south slope of a mountain (the adret) is also an excellent location to look for a wellpositioned clearing. Since the mountain is to the north, your plants will receive as much light from the south as possible.

The spacing between the plants is often neglected, and only a few centimetres are left between plants. This reduces the production potential of the lower branches, since plants will create shade for one another. A good solution is to plant using a zigzag shape, leaving one meter between the plants.

The tying technique consists of tying the plant’s apex to curve the plant in the shape of a bow. It is a valuable trick, and redistributes the growth hormones (cytokinin, gibberellin and auxin) to all the branches. It is an excellent technique to use to maximize light penetration while increasing the yield of lateral branches, that get substantially more sunlight.

A – Soil: The Most Complex Element Different types of soil exist: sandy, muddy, clayish, silty, loamy...

A fistful of dirt is, actually, made up of different types of matter, such as clay, sand, organic matter, etc. The soil’s properties determine how it will interact with the plant. As with water, it is crucial to know the composition of soil. For outdoor cultivation, the best soil has the following properties: it drains well, is rich in nutrients, and has a pH that nears neutrality (7).

1 – Light Sandy Soil Sand drains well... too well, even, and for this reason it cannot retain moisture. The nutriments are thus easily washed off with a heavy rain or simple watering.

This type of soil, however, can easily be prepared for cultivation. To increase the soil’s water retention capacity, simply add manure, humus or peat moss. This will also provide nitrogen, which is required since sandy soil usually lacks nitrogen. It is, however, rich in phosphorous (P), potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg).

Soil made up of sedimentary rocks at the surface, but rich in stability and nutrients (on the picture, a few carnations flower on a rocky and rugged mountain slope.)

Photo: Robbez-Masson.

2 – Loamy Soil 20% clay, 40% sand and 40% silt. Loamy soil offers excellent conditions for plants transplanted outdoors. The soil is usually fertile and, because of its composition, it also drains well while retaining enough moisture.

3 – Silty Soil Made of minerals and fine organic particles, silty soil is actually the result of floods: it is Rendosol (is said of a soil that is hypercalcareous, calcaric, from soft chalk) on green and blue plates of limestone.

Note the very visible biological activity around the roots.

Photo: Bruno Bredoux

Photo: Robbez-Masson.

Naples, Florida, December 2005

VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

INTRODUCTION Photo: Bruno Bredoux

B) LESS FERTILE SOIL

Clayey-loamy soil where the deep level is more hydromorphic and therefore limits rooting. It is identifiable by its grey color.

Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.

Questembert, France, July 2005

made up of the deposits of the surrounding seabeds. Good silt drains well and retains moisture. It is very fertile – it is perhaps the most fertile type of soil – although it is sometimes slightly low in nitrogen. It can very well handle the intensive cultivation of plants transplanted outdoors.

Soil mainly made up of red soil. The slow dissolution of limestone has freed the terra rossa, and a reddish soil has developed, along with a surface decarbonation, an alkaline saturation above 65% and an alteration of primary minerals, resulting in a rocky fersialsol (a soil with the previously listed characteristics). Low fertility potential.

Photo: Robbez-Masson.

4 – Muddy Soil Mud is to be avoided: it retains too much water and does not drain well. Mud is very fertile, but often very acidic. Dig a 60-centimetre hole in the ground. If you find no water, it is possible to cultivate it if you correct the soil with perlite or sand to improve drainage.

5 – Clayish Soil Clay is hard to work with, does not drain well and retains much water. Like mud, however, clay is very fertile. A clayish soil, given an application of perlite or sand, can become an excellent cultivation site for plants transplanted outdoors. Red clay is best; blue or green clay requires more care before the transplantation.

Most soils in Québec can be suitable to the cultivation of plants transplanted outdoors with minimal work. At first glance, the immediate flora will indicate to you how fertile the soil is. If the plants are pale,

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THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

yellow or stunted, the soil is clearly lacking nutrients.

Preparing the soil is usually simple, but it is an important step. To evaluate the soil’s quality, all you need do is to dig a 60 to 90 centimetres-deep hole and to observe the dirt’s texture at various depths. Press the soil in your hand. If it crumbles well, it is sandy or loamy. If it stays compact or is sticky, it is clayish or muddy and you will have no choice but to prepare it.

Fill the hole with water. Wait for it to drain completely and fill it again to verify the soil’s drainage capacity. If the water has not drained 24 hours later, you have a severe drainage problem. You can rectify the problem with perlite or sand, but it would be wiser to simply pick another spot.

B – pH Most soils in Québec are acidic or very slightly alkaline, with a pH under 7.5, a level that is still adequate for plants transplanted outdoors.

The optimal pH is around 6 or 7. A simple way of testing the soil’s average pH is to take a soil sample and to put it in tepid water for half an hour. Then test the mixture’s pH with pH paper or a pH meter.

Photos:

INTRODUCTION Photos: Bruno Bredoux & Arrosoirs Brio

1 – Acidic Soil Conifer needles are very acidic. The soil in areas where conifers are found is likely to be relatively acidic.

Soil can be deacidified with lime. Fine lime is released faster than others, and thus acts more quickly. To bring an acidic soil’s pH closer to neutrality, use 500 millilitres of lime for every 20 litres of soil.

Common Lithosol Photo: Barthès

2 – Alkaline Soil It is rare, but it does exist. An alkaline soil’s pH is usually under 7.5. To adjust its pH, you can use gypsum, among others.

Tucson, Arizona, April 2005

C – Holes When you prepare holes to transplant the plants into, remember to dig holes that are wider than deep, in order for surface roots to have an air supply. Peat moss will fill these holes wonderfully. Mix pure peat moss with perlite to improve drainage and with manure or compost for the nutrients they bring. The top layer of prepared soil should be at least 15 centimetres deep and 30 centimetres wide.

Lithosol (crude non evolved mineral soil) on fissured limestone. Its fertility is low.

Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.

Source: www.sol.ensam.inra.fr – Sols et Paysages © UMR LISAH Montpellier

D – Watering You should water your plants one a week (if there has been no rain, of course). If you add fertilizers in your waterings, I suggest you check the weather forecast for the week beforehand: nothing is more disappointing than to fertilize before a cloudy week. With its feet in water and fertilizer, without heat or sunlight, the plant will not perspire enough to absorb the water and nutrients. This could lead to burns or rot due to stagnant water.

Fertilize after the rain and before the sun comes back – the nutrients will spread with more ease in a moist soil.

To be continued in the next issue…

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THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Questembert, France, July 2005

Los Angeles, CA, April 2005

Photos:

NOTES & NEWS

Last January, manufacturing biochemist Dr. John A.A. Thomson received the Lifetime Achievement Award, the highest honour given by the Lawn and Garden Marketing and Distribution Association. Dr. Thomson is the first chemist to receive this award.

For the curious, here are the main ways in which SUPERthrive was used by the US government to help to win World War II: 1. T he US Army Corps of Engineers were enabled by SUPERthrive to camouflage large new defence installation buildings with transplanted large trees, without the trees wilting and dying. This seemed necessary when enemy aircraft carriers’ positions were unknown and were considered a threat.

Dr. Thomson, 94, is best known as the inventor of SUPERthrive™ multiple vitamin-hormones, the unique formula used worldwide as a universal improvement for over 50 forms of horticulture.

2. T he US Forest Service found that SUPERthrive Dr. Thomson first developed produced more latex rubber in larger whole SUPERthrive in early 1940. Since Guayule rubber plants. Real natural latex rubber then, SUPERthrive has been was required for some defence purposes, while famous for its unchallenged imports were severely restricted by enemy monetary reward guarantee warships. ($5,000) of superior efficacy.

3. T he US Army Air Corps used SUPERthrive to Although Dr. Thomson has rapidly establish well-rooted turf flying fields, to created hundreds of products control dust. for the Vitamin Institute, of Presenter and Conference Marketing Chairman Jim Kaminskas of the Espoma Co., which he is founder, president Millville, N.J. with John A.A. Thomson, Ph.D., 4. T he US Navy found that SUPERthrive enabled and owner, only SUPERthrive D.A. President-Founder-Owner, Vitamin Institute Manufacturing biochemist. successful planting and development of seeds survived. and plants at naval bases, regardless of saltwater contamination.

The LGMDA lifetime achievement award citation outlined biographical notes. It stated: 5. SUPERthrive helped the US Department of Agriculture produce an agriculture project to enable the USA to “Dr. John has been recognized in 28 differently-titled become independent of foreign sources of drug and oilWho’s Who directories, including 52 lines in Who’s Who in bearing plants. The USDA accomplished this cooperatively America, much for the product and the information that he with the State of California through the California State brought about.

Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo, where 3,000 “Dr. John worked his way through college during depression acres were used in crops. times by digging ditches, by winning national and other essay and speaking contests and working as a paymaster The only previous lifetime achievement award by the for the U.S. Treasury, paying F.D.R.’s emergency alphabet Association was made to Horace Hagedorn, now deceased. agencies people.

“During World War II, all of his SUPERthrive and other production were either for ‘high priorities’ or ‘high end use.’

He had five US government departments use his SUPERthrive product to help win World War II. “He was a senior in the School of Government at the University of Southern California when he switched to biochemistry. He has pioneered most of the known uses of vitamins and hormones for plants and he also had a “first” in the field of vitamins for humans. He has led the national laws to protect the availability of each. He has had a number of civic service and other awards.”

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THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

This year, however, a total of four pillars of the industry were honoured. Three wholesale distributors were given this award: • Bob J. Bunch, founder and head of BWI Companies, Inc., Texarkana, Texas.

• Aaron Lessans, top official of Commerce Corporation, Inc., Baltimore, Maryland.

• Bernard J. Mollema, former chairman of J. Mollema and Son, Grand Rapids, Michigan.

Source: Travis Thomson and Patrisha Thomson — The Vitamin Institute™

Photos: LGMDA (by permission)

Dr. John A.A. Thomson of the Vitamin Institute and three other pillars of the industry received Lifetime Achievement Awards from the Lawn and Garden Marketing and Distribution Association (LGMDA)

Photos:

NOTES & NEWS T HE BENEFITS OF CONSUMING LOC AL

were concerned about the burning of fossil fuels and the toxic fumes being released from the trucks which transport fruits and vegetables. Their experiment was tricky and not that easy. Deciding that every single ingredient had to come from the earth in their 160 kilometre circle, they were unable to find any locally grown grains, pasta, bread or rice. The only starch they could find was potatoes. After a few weeks, they had to loosen their rules to include locally milled flour.

Food grown locally is fresher, tastier and more nutritious than produce that travels for a week and then sits on supermarket shelves for another week. Fruits and vegetables lose nutrients quickly. Food that is canned just after harvest is actually more nutritious than produce that has gone through the import cycle.

Preparing for winter, Smith and MacKinnon froze and canned vegetables in the fall. Faced with making strawberry jam during strawberry season, they were unable to use sugar because it is shipped from thousands of kilometres away.

Using local honey instead, they found it quite expensive because of the quantities needed to preserve the summer fruit…

Vancouver writers Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon decided to challenge themselves for one year and eat only food produced within a 160-kilometre radius of their home. They THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

North American environmentalists are encouraging people to make a conscious effort to eat locally. As well as protecting the environment, you are supporting the local economy.

Purchasing products from local farmers helps keep them in business and guarantees that you are receiving the freshest possible produce. Also, local farmers don’t have access to genetically modified seeds, so you can be assured that fruits and vegetables are grown the old fashioned way. By helping the farms stay financially active, the beauty of the landscape is preserved, as well. The crop fields, meadows, woods and ponds are also home to many species of wildlife. Thriving in a constant state of life, this ecosystem also captures carbon emissions and helps offset 12 to 14% of the carbon emitted by vehicles and industry.

By supporting local farmers today, you can help ensure that there will be a farming community tomorrow and that future generations will have access to nutritious fresh fruits and vegetables.

Sources: Monique Beaudin, The Montreal Gazette, Tuesday, November 22, 2005, CanWestMediaWorks Publications Inc., &, www.macrobiotics.co.uk/mbprinciples.htm, www.greensgrow. org, www.thetyee.ca, thetyee.ca/Life/2005/06/28/ HundredMileDiet.

Photos: La Chaîne de l’Espoir & Hedimag

According to the U.S. environmental research group World Watch Institute, imported food travels between 2,500 and 4,000 kilometres from farm to plate. Four times the energy is used and four times the greenhouse gas emissions are generated compared to local food. Approximately 8 tonnes of CO2 emissions are created each year in the production, packaging, transportation and distribution of imported food for a family of four. The average meal uses up to 17 times more petroleum products and increases carbon dioxide emissions by the same amount compared to an entirely local meal. Buying local decreases transportation, which means less fossil fuel is being burned, thus the environment is being protected from ozone depleting substances in harmful exhaust fumes such as nitrous oxide.

Listening to our body’s needs should also encourage us to buy locally. Our body energy is maximized if we eat according to seasonal harvests. A large percentage of the food we import is grown in climates more suitable to its nutrition. In warmer climates, the cooling effects of raw foods and tropical fruits are essential.

Foods that are higher in sugar content are more popular than whole grains and animal protein. In harsher climates, we have a need for foods that provide warmth and energy such as salt, grains, vegetable stews and for some people, animal protein. These foods provide warmth and energy.

We should eat in harmony with our weather. It is more difficult to adapt to colder temperatures if our blood is filled with sugar, making it more summery. It is harder to tolerate the cold without alkaline substances in the blood…

Imported foods should be enjoyed, on occasion, for variety and specialty dishes, not for everyday fare.

16

B y H e d i G r een

I love rotten fruit!

Is it provocation? An actual taste for rot? Alimentary decadence? It is hard to pass judgment on the love French author Amélie Nothomb devotes to eating rotten fruit.

It started off as a simple declaration made to a women’s magazine, but it has become the most note-worthy trait of Nothomb’s persona – she is still explaining herself in television studios, which leads us to believe she may have done better to think before she spoke. Again recently on the set of the show “On a tout essayé” (“We’ve tried everything” – and it’s not true: no one on the set but Amélie agreed to eat the rotting fruit!), she devoured, in front of the camera, peaches that were more than rotten, overripe pears and strawberries that had long ago see better days.

It’s a question of taste, she says. These seemingly disgusting fruit have flavours unknown to the common man. Perhaps she is right in the end – supermarket stands are filled with fruits whose ripening process has been stalled by any possible means just so they look shiny under supermarket neon lamps... Shiny, yes, but often tasteless and bland! In any case, it seems that rotten fruit is good for the skin (see the picture)!

– B.B.

In Seneca Falls, Renewal Happens With Methane Gas

Photos: D.R. & GL Video

It was recently announced that a 200-acres industrial complex will be built along route 414 in Seneca Falls, New York. The complex’s power supply will be done exclusively with methane gas, a by-product of the area’s numerous garbage decomposition sites and public dumps. Using this by-product of decomposition is a nice way of saving energy, but it is also an ecological stand. Seneca county officials have said they are thrilled with the project. The five production sites will produce enough power to also supply 20,000 to 25,000 homes and will create jobs.

The first tenant of the new industrial complex will be none other than H2Gro, a hydroponic tomato production company that was based, until now, in Lewinston, in Niagara County.

During the ground breaking ceremony held on May 5th, Peter Zeliff, CEO of H2Gro, said that the company would move to its new location at the very beginning of 2007. Its hydroponic greenhouse will be powered only by methane and will allow for the creation of nearly 100 jobs in the Seneca Falls community. The energetic exploitation and the maintenance of the main generator will create 340 more jobs in this sector of “clean” energy.

– B.B. (following a report in The Finger Lakes Times)

NOTES & NEWS

Preserving Nature In Panama

City, at the tip of a causeway on the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal, the museum will be the first and only dedicated to presenting the diversity and complexity of life on Earth. The project is being developed in cooperation with the Smithsonian Institute, the Universidad of Panama, and the ARI (Interoceanic Region Authority).

The museum will be hard to miss – its pavilions will have bright colourful roofs, visible from afar, to create “a jagged and twisting silhouette that will be a clear representation of the forces of nature that shape our world.”

The museum will sit within a botanical park – one designed by Edwina von Gal, a self-taught gardener/landscape designer who boasts clients such as Calvin Klein and who fell in love with Panama’s natural beauty. In the public plaza at the end of the planned frog pond reflecting pool, Ms. von Gal sees a corutu, a great canopy tree that will provide shade. “We’re not trying to put in a rain forest”, she told the New York Times, “The whole idea of the park is that it’s a bridge to the real thing. Out here, people will be able to touch and smell plants most suitable to urban gardens.” Most of the plants will be native.

Panama Baro Colorado Islands (Photo: Panama forest flora and fauna association)

Deforestation, erosion, desertification – Panama is looking for and finding solutions. With the help of a few friends, the country is attempting to save its fragile and rich ecosystems.

Its rain forests harbour a diversity that is second only to that of the Amazon.

Panama has only just begun to focus on attracting ecotourists since the 1999 transfer of control over the Panama Canal from the United States. Panama’s nature, it is said, is comparable to that of neighbouring Costa Rica, but it is less crowded with tourists. In and near the capital, Panama City, many nature reserves and attractions allow one to discover the natural flora of the region: visitors can choose between the large Parque Natural Metropolitano, the Centro de Exhibiciones Marinas, located on the causeway or the Parque Nacional Soberania, on the western side of the Canal, where birdwatchers gather (Panama sustains over 80% of North American shore birds that winter in its mangrove swamps). One advantage of having the Canal is that it requires nature along its sides as a water catchment system (although erosion and lack of water are important and rising environmental issues in Panama as everywhere else).

In 2007, a new museum should add to Panama City’s natural attractions. The Museum of Biodiversity, also known as the Bridge of Life Building, has been designed by none other than Frank Gehry. Located in the Amador area of Panama

In fact, Ms. von Gal and other well-todo Americans have started buying land – and building eco-friendly homes away from home using local materials and labor – in Panama, planting native trees on eroded hill sides and bringing nature back to what it once was. They work Rubén Blades, with the locals, proving to them that some Panama’s Tourism Minister (Photo: cash crops – vanilla, for example – can EPASA Archives) grow in its native land again, but only in forested areas! The group is “pooling their funds to buy up old cattle ranches before developers buy the land for highrise resorts, casinos and golf courses.” It very well may be that we will look at Panama, years from now, as an example of human intervention to save what was almost destroyed.

– H.J. Sources: New York Times, wikipedia.com

Photo: Crea

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TIPS & TRICKS

Seed Germination Germination is a period where life starts again, a crucial step in the development of your indoor and outdoor plants – that is why it is so important to provide the seeds with the proper nutritive elements so they can successfully germinate.

The Technique

First, you must choose a good, well-drained soil with a neutral pH (7.0). I suggest you use a commercial soil mix such as Pro-Mix – it is sterilized and has a balanced pH. Mix three parts of Pro-Mix‚ to one part worm casting compost and one part perlite or vermiculite. Pour the soil into tencentimetre diameter pots and mix in five millilitres of Mycorise‚ an agent that contains an endomycorrhizal fungi which lives in total symbiosis with plant roots.

Photos: System D (Laurent), S.D. Song / University Of Hong Kong

You must then make a nutritive solution with which to wet and enrich the soil. If your water is strongly chlorinated, I suggest you fill your water containers and let them rest for a 24-hour period, in order to allow the chlorine to evaporate.

Natural water springs are ideal. Mix five millilitres of liquid marine algae per litre of water.

I always advise people to “start” the plant seeds three days before the full moon: the moon’s attractive effect greatly improves the success rate, and it accelerates the germination period. It takes most seeds between two and seven days to crack their shell. The roots grow in the 14 days following germination.

To start the germination cycle, pour some nutritive solution into a pot and soak the seeds in that water for 12 hours. At the same time, wet your clay pots and place them under a lamp in what will become their new environment. The pots will thus be ready to welcome the plantlets.

Place the seeds on this dirt. Carefully observe the seed’s shape. It must not be pushed in too deep – only enough for it to be covered, pointing up (its shape resembles a falling drop of water). When the seeds crack, their natural tendency is to shoot a first root down to send the seed’s head upwards (see illustration).

B y Bordy L achance

Lighting

Moderate lighting is ideal for germination. Full spectrum fluorescent tubes are excellent.

A window sill can also do, but you must ensure that the temperature remains between 20 and 25°C and that the surface is not cold.

To increase your chances of success, use small plastic domes to create a greenhouse effect – this will increase the humidity rate to 60 to 80%.

Wipe the excess condensation once a day to allow as much light in as possible. If you have opted for fluorescent lighting, the tubes can safely be put right in contact with the domes. If you are using a high intensity discharge lamp, however, place it 1.2 meters above the plantlets.

If you have no domes, make sure the top layer of soil stays moist (a light daily spraying should suffice). As soon as the shoots are above the soil, remove the domes to re-establish a normal humidity level (40 to 50%).

If you want to plant your seeds outdoors, start by well turning the soil, and plant them the same way. You should, however, plant more seeds than you want plants, because some of the seeds will be eaten by birds and small animals.

The early June full moon period is an ideal starting point for this endeavour.

Cuttings and plantlets well started indoors will give you bigger yields.

Happy germination!

VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

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TIPS & TRICKS

CRW Mulch

By Jessy Caron

A few decades ago, researchers at Université Laval have demonstrated that ramial chipped wood (RCW) is the ideal amendment. Numerous experiments done in forested and agricultural areas and in landscaping have allowed the experts to see a regeneration of the soil, the return of its natural fertility and melanization (the soil becomes darker) caused by the transformation of lignin into humus.

This lignin creates high quality humus. Humus is essential: it improves the physical, chemical and biological properties of soil. It stores the minerals naturally found in the soil, and those minerals can then be made available to the plants via microorganisms.

CRW is made up of hardwood tree branches of less than seven centimetres in diameter, made into chips. Branches of a larger diameter and trunks should not be used, because they can lead to a nitrogen deficiency in the soil. They also contain very few nutrients and the tree-protection products contained in the trunk could be harmful to the soil. If you want to use conifer branches, they cannot form over 20% of the whole. That is because conifers produce substances (tannins and phenols) that can hinder the growth of herbaceous plants. The lignin of conifers is also different from that of hardwoods, and it produces a humus that is specifically intended for organisms that prefer an acidic environment.

According to researchers, CRW is the mulch that produces the most stable humus because small diameter branches are very rich in young lignin and in proteins. The smaller the branches, the highest their nutriment concentration is.

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Branches also contain other elements, such as cellulose, sugars, starches, hemicellulose, amino acids, enzymes and mineral salts.

Some fungi (basidiomycetes or white mould) transform lignin into humus; they are the only living organisms that can perform such a transformation. To help the organisms perform their task, the CRW mulch must be incorporated into the soil – because fungi need moisture – but not too deeply – because they also need air. Once that is done, other useful organisms, such as springtails and mites, will be attracted by the fungi, which they eat. Springtails and mites will in turn allow some bacteria that feed on their waste to multiply.

These bacteria then feed protozoa, the earth worm’s favourite dish.

Earth worms, it has been demonstrated, are much more attracted to CRW than they are to compost.

The presence of all these micro-organisms creates diversity and makes the soil a stable habitat where each organism and each plant benefits.

The spectacular results observed on soil during experiments demonstrate the many advantages of using CRW: • All soil structures have been remarkably improved.

• The humus formed retains 15 times its weight in water; it thus allows for better draught resistance.

• Parasites are less virulent because of the increased biodiversity.

• Product quality has improved: more dry matter and improved flavour.

• Yield increases have been noted, notably the second year after the CRW application (up to 300% for strawberries).

• In strawberries, an exceptional root development was observed, as well as the natural appearance of mycorhiza with beneficial effects on the available level of phosphorous.

• The pH of acidic soils increased.

Photo: Jessy Caron

Horticulturists and plant lovers know that putting mulch on the ground offers many advantages. Much retains the soil’s water, which means fewer waterings. Mulch improves the structure of soil and protects it against temperature variations. Mulch prevents weeds and feeds the soil by decomposing. Of all available mulches, however, which one should you pick?

In landscaping, CRW mulch can be beneficial for all shrub, perennial or annual plant beds, but it is mostly used around trees and shrubs and on garden aisles. A 10-centimetre layer can be put down around trees and shrubs and a five centimetre layer around herbaceous plants, depending of the plant’s development. You should nonetheless avoid placing CRW directly on trunks to avoid trunk mould. You will then only need to add some CRW each year, because it decomposes slowly. Ideally, the chips should not be too coarse (two to four centimetres in diameter) to increase the contact surfaces for soil micro-organisms, which ensures that the material is well digested. The CRW must not be too finely shredded, however, to prevent it from forming a water-proof layer. To preserve adequate aeration, the thicker the layer, the coarser the chips should be.

Photo: Jessy Caron

CRW is obviously one of the best mulches and amendments available, given its high nutrient content and the presence of lignin which forms a very stable humus, which in turn is beneficial to the organisms living in the soil and hence for the plants.

The only problem with CRW is its availability. The only companies that sell it are pruning companies and municipalities, and we cannot be sure that all the branches used had a diameter of less than seven centimetres. Another way to get CRW would be to rent or buy a wood chipper, but in this case you must make sure that the investment can be made profitable, i.e., the quantity of branches to be chipped must be worth the effort.

INDUSTRY

Urban Agriculture

By Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.)

1) Urban Agriculture Planting in cities is becoming increasingly popular as a result of demographic growth and because it is a source of food and of jobs, providing city dwellers with an income. This situation, however, gives rise to much concern. Despite the fact that urban agriculture is a suitable solution for dwellers of urban areas and the urban periphery, these people live in places where facilities, community infrastructure and other services that ensure a proper quality of life are usually absent.

purposes are the main source of disease, this gives rise to a major flaw in the food safety of the end product.

Organic soil agriculture, when used in a rural environment, presents significant advantages and a relatively low pollution risk when planting takes place in conformity with certain standards. However, if it is transferred to an urban environment, the situation changes considerably due to the conditions under which the crops are produced.

Conventional crops sown on soil require the proper Cultivation techniques applied in these cases include the environment, so one must take into account the quality of the soil and water on which growing of fruits and vegetables based on they rely, as plants absorb any the traditional model existing pollution. The main soil and water disorders observed in of soil agriculture (organic), where it is most cities are the following: possible to make the most of household Soils waste as well as The soils of urban areas and of the urban periphery are of the manure of contaminated to a large domestically raised degree, especially in those areas animals. This apparent where the population is socioadvantage of organic economically disadvantaged. crops, stemming from the use of household Once the soil has been contaminated, it shall remain waste and the resulting polluted for many years. decrease in its volume, Figure 1. View of a settlement in the urban periphery in Latin America, adjacent to contaminated water sources. is nevertheless one Wastewaters from cesspools, of the main health which overflow or have hazards for the people who consume this produce, and overflowed in the past, leave their microbial load in the soil constitutes the greatest double-edged sword of the model. and can even contaminate the crops grown there.

Since urban soil and the inputs applied for fertilization

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Photo: Aquafood

Simplified Hydroponics as an Appropriate Technology to Implement Food Security in

Soils containing heavy metals (lead, chromium, cadmium, etc.) are most common in the presence of polluting industries that use these metals. In the case of lead, it can also be the residue of car batteries laid to waste on the spot for several years. There are other contaminants which are easily overlooked, such as emissions from motor vehicles burning gasoline with lead and flaking paint from the walls of houses, which peels off and falls to the ground where it stays for many years. That is why some environmental scientists advise against planting adjacent to homes, highways and roads, since the plants absorb these toxic elements and transfer them to the crops that the family consumes, with serious health consequences, especially in the case of children (Raloff, Janet 2003).

Landfill soils, where garbage or materials of unknown history have been dumped, on which people later settle, with their dwellings and crops, remain unsafe if untreated.

Water This is another constraint of the urban milieu, since the areas where these low-income dwellers are located do not have easy access to drinking water and sewerage (Figure 1). The ground and surface water sources there may be considered low quality because of the high contamination levels of the following: • Bacteria, protozoa and viruses, because the water sources are near cesspools or sanitary landfills. They are increasingly present when the absence of a sewerage network is coupled with high population density.

• Excess of nitrates: as a result of the over-fertilization of farmland which reaches the urban environment through the water tables and impinges on the ground water.

Additionally, there are fertilizers used in residential gardens, etc.

• Pesticides: as a result of their use in farming.

• T oxic chemicals: as a result of industrial residue (fats, soaps, detergents, solvents, tanning chemicals, heavy metals, etc.) and farming wastes (pesticides).

Ideally, programs implemented by international and governmental agencies and non-governmental organizations should take into account Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) when contemplating planting in soil in cities. Several tests should be carried out on the soil and water sources, and appropriate pollution management practices should be applied.

INDUSTRY

2) Food Security According to the “Rome Declaration on World Food Security and World Food Summit Plan of Action” (Rome, FAO 1996), food security “exists when all people, at all times, have physical and affordable access to sufficient, safe and nutritious food to meet their dietary needs enabling them to lead a healthy and active life.”

Even when a country has sufficient food at the national level, foodstuffs must be equitably distributed, they must be of good nutritional quality and people must be able to afford them. Foodstuffs must also be safe. According to the Pan American Health Organization (PAHO), safe foodstuffs are those which are fit for human consumption, nutritional and pleasant and that do not harm consumers.

At the World Food Summit held in Rome (in 1996), governments promised to strive to cut by half the number of people who did not have access to food security conditions by 2015. Before 1996, there were 817 million people in developing countries. In the beginning, national policies were successful, and the malnourished population initially dropped to 778 million in 1997 but it then rose to 798 million in 1999-2001 (FAO – The State of Food Insecurity in the World, SOFI 2003).

2.1) F ood Security And Its Relationship With Water Quality, Disease And Malnutrition Apart from the quality of water for irrigation purposes, in the context of water quality, disease and malnutrition, it is important to consider the water used to wash fruit and vegetables for personal consumption. The poor quality of water used by urban populations without basic utilities in place contributes to the likelihood of a high degree of contamination being present in the produce grown and washed under such conditions, i.e. it is not safe for human consumption (Guide to Reduce Microbial Hazard in Food to A Minimum, in the Case of Fresh Fruit And Vegetables. Food and Drug Administration, USA, 1998).

In a given social and environmental context, urban pollution, coupled with the scarce availability of safe foodstuffs, is directly linked to the existence of the so-called water-borne gastro-intestinal diseases (hepatitis, diarrheas, parasitic mites and pinworms, leptospirosis), which are a recurrent problem in populations where basic needs are unfulfilled, especially among children. “Diarrhea, for instance, is one of the five leading causes of death worldwide in children under 5 years of age” (Stineke Oenema, FAO/RLC 2001).

Gastro-intestinal diseases reduce the nutrient absorption efficiency in humans, causing malnutrition, which in turn minimizes a person’s immune defences, facilitating re-infection or diminishing personal development.

3) Simplified Hydroponics (SH) Simplified Hydroponics, which was developed in Latin America, is a suitable technological package that can be easily adapted to the conditions of urban areas and the urban periphery, in the following ways.

This stated goal will be very difficult to achieve unless food security in cities is given the priority it deserves. The perception in the early 21st century is that urbanization will continue and increase.

According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), on average 50% of the world’s population lives in cities, ranging from 22% in China to 72% in Latin America.

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Figure 2. Safe watercress and lettuce

Firstly, the production system is isolated from the soil. Planting takes place at a convenient height, where soil pollution has no impact. It allows for vegetables to be produced “without soil” and in small physical spaces. Plants are grown in water containers or in low-cost natural substrates (sand, rice husk, pumice, etc.).

With this system, it is possible to grow a vast range of vegetables, for example lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, celery, watercress (Figure 2), eggplants, beans, parsley, wild radish, leek, strawberries, melons, aromatic and medicinal plants, etc.

Photo: Aquafood

Manure and solid organic wastes are harmless and they are an effective fertilizer, but only when properly treated (Guide To Reduce Microbial Hazard In Food To A Minimum, In The Case Of Fresh Fruit And Vegetables, Food and Drug Administration, USA, 1998). Such programs should also include other measures, such as educating the population on how to achieve a safe end product. Nevertheless, as a result of the dizzying development pace of cities, soil and especially water are subject to environmental factors which are extremely dynamic – they facilitate pollution, dispersion and, over time, compromise the continuity of efforts geared to controlling factors that guarantee food safety.

Use of limited space. One of the main advantages of Simplified Hydroponics is the possibility of using urban spaces which until now had not been considered adequate for growing food (patios, small gardens, party walls, balconies, rooftops) (Figure 4).

Use of hanging pipes – as an option, fruits and vegetables can be grown in these, thus optimizing space, passing from using m2 to m3 (Figure 3).

High efficiency in the use of irrigation water, where water is recycled and does not pollute the environment (Figure 3).

Pest, disease and weed control.

Simplified Hydroponics facilitates the adoption of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) programs. There is also a significant reduction in the use of chemicals once used Figure 3. Strawberries grown to control pests and weeds. upright in plastic boxes, plastic and Moreover, neither the produce PVC pipes, at a home-made connor the environment are venient height above the ground contaminated by chemicals irrigation system which recycles the water and nutrients.

(Figure 4).

Higher yields and shorter times between harvests. Hence, the total output is greater than in conventional soil systems.

Easy to learn – the technique is easy to understand, it does not require prior knowledge and concrete results are achieved quickly.

Simplified Hydroponics is not highly technological and requires only household labour, generally supplied by women (Figures 4 and 5).

Use of recycled materials – it is possible to use recycled materials to build growing systems.

Subsequently, growers can use materials they already have on hand, e.g. wood, disposable packaging materials, etc.

(Figures 4 and 5).

Photo: Aquafood

Simplified Hydroponics is a source of income from direct sales, for family or community owned micro-enterprises.

In simple terms, it is possible to grow high quality, safe foodstuffs using Simplified Hydroponics techniques. Fruit and vegetables have a high biological and dietary value.

Crops for household consumption are harvested when they are ready to be used. Hence, the produce is fresh and

INDUSTRY Fortunately, successful experiences with Simplified Hydroponics are available, applied to urban locales with low income populations. These programs started as a result of private and governmental initiatives, including international programs. These organizations have found that Simplified Hydroponics is a good alternative for producing safer urban crops and they have committed themselves to long-term results.

In order to achieve maximum quality, the availability of good onclusion potable water is essential. This Low-cost Simplified Hydroponics drinking water may come from should be encouraged as one of the municipal tap water system, 2 Figure 4. Small family greenhouse (10 m ) the basic tools for urban agriculture it may be clean rainwater, or it worldwide, where it can be adapted may be filtered and chlorinated. to conditions in urban and peri-urban areas to enhance food To a large extent, this is made easier because of the low security. water volume needed for Simplified Hydroponics.

C

Currently, the use of Simplified Hydroponics technology is not widespread. Among the factors that account for this are the following: • Scarce dissemination of information concerning the benefits of the technology.

• Constraints regarding the availability of trained technicians with a working knowledge of Simplified Hydroponics and who produce the nutrient solution locally and at a low cost.

• Prevalence of the organic agriculture paradigm, where fertilizers are seen as toxic. It would be valuable for Simplified Hydroponics programs of this nature to be implemented by governments, municipalities, non-governmental organizations and international agencies. Such programs could train more technicians to teach Simplified Hydroponics and provide easier access to nutrient solutions.

About the author: Martin Caldeyro-Stajano is the President of the Uruguayan Hydroponics Society (ASUDHI), an international consultant and a regular contributor to Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses.

Sources: • Juan Izquierdo-Cesar Marulanda, “Popular Hydroponics Gardens”, FAO/RLC, 1994.

• FAO, “Rome Declaration on World Food Security and World Food Summit Plan of Action”, November 1996, Rome.

• Food and Drug Administration (FDA), US Department of Agriculture Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Final Guidance: Guide to Minimize Microbial Food Safety Hazards for Fresh Fruits and Vegetables”, 1998.

• Stineke

Oenema.

“Home

Food

Security”, FAO/RLC, 2001.

• FAO, “The State of Food Insecurity in the World”, SOFI, 2003.

• Raloff Janet, “Leaden gardens”,

To ensure food safety to the end Science News; vol. 164, Nº 23, Figure 5. View of a family hydroponic system in the consumer, there needs to be a Dec 6, 2003. backyard of a house, using SH techniques, made of simple materials.

This garden is making the most of the plan from seed to plate. Such a party wall under the leadership of a woman. Yellow plan needs to look at familiar costtraps catch insects (IPM). effective rainwater catchment Email: aquafood@chasque.net systems and/or water purification using chlorine and simple Website: www.chasque.net/aquafood filters. It is also necessary to continue researching more This article was previously published in Australia by the magazine Practical options that can be adapted to the urban environment. Hydroponics and Greenhouses

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Photos: Aquafood

retains its nutritional and medicinal properties (vitamins, minerals, phyto-nutrients, etc.). As a result of these benefits, the technique is being promoted by FAO/RLC as part of its Urban Agriculture strategy for the production of vegetables in limited spaces in urban and peri-urban areas (Popular Hydroponics Gardens

by J. Izquierdo – FAO/RLC, 1994 and PH&G No. 71).

Ing. Agr. (M. Sc.) Martin Caldeyro Stajano Consultor Internacional International Consultant

AQUAFOOD is a consultant company, which dedicates to : • Develop and execute social hydroponic projects.

• Develop and execute commercial hydroponic projects.

• Teach hydroponics, through courses and lectures.

• Promote vegetable hydroponic production as urban agriculture.

• Promote the use of aromatic plants.

www.chasque.net/aquafood AQUAFOOD - Cno. Servando Gómez 2491- Montevideo - Uruguay Telefax: +598 2 6002299 - E-mail: aquafood@chasque.net

www.chasque.net/asudhi Available in English and Spanish

BOTANY

By Dave Guillemette

Perfume, Always

Perhaps during a recent walk you have noticed that where there are flowers there are always insects? Since plants cannot move, they have had to learn to exploit their environment – it is a question of survival of the species. Flower production is one method to take advantage of pollinating insects that go from male to female flowers. Once flowers were created, nature gave them different techniques to attract insects; perfume is one of those. Whether it smells like a rose or like rotten meat, each plant’s odour has its own use – and that is what we shall explore.

Plants Emit Perfumes To… -Attract Pollinating Insects Some plants emit perfumes to attract insects. Foraging insects bring pollen along and deposit it without intent on a neighbouring flower, now fertilized. Flowers have varied odours, and for a reason: each type of insect has particular olfactive sensibilities and flowers do not all wish to attract the same type of insect. Some plants, such as orchids, emit little or no perfume – in that case, it is their shape which will attract insects.

-Repel Herbivores Some plants, such as patchouli, emit odours that can repel come animals and insects that would otherwise take a bite out of the plant. This principle is at the basis of companion gardening, where one repulsive plant is coupled to a cultivated plant and keeps the insects at bay.

-Eliminate Competition Plants secrete some substances that can prevent the germination of seeds from other varieties up to a certain distance. Some trees, such as the beech, secrete toxic substances through their roots and thus limit the root progression of other varieties of trees that are looking for the same minerals. It is thus not surprising that beeches tend to slowly eliminate other tree varieties to create a monoculture.

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-Warn Of A Danger When an animal eats a large quantity of leaves, some tree species become toxic and send a signal to other trees of the same species growing nearby, for them to also become toxic. A study was done in 1979 with potted willows.

Caterpillar-infected and non infected plants were placed in the same room. Two weeks later, the defence mechanism of all the plants, infected or not, was active. That is to say that plants communicate…

How Does It Work?

Plants are able to emit odours because they can produce a volatile compound called phenol. Phenols are benzene-based and can travel long distances in the air or the wind. In many cases, these gases are chemical signals aiming to generate a physiological reaction within the plant, insect or animal that perceives them. Some phenols, called flavonoids, are responsible for the colouring and the smells used by plants to attract pollinating insects. Phenols can even be released in the air to attract an insect that feeds on the pest insect!

Phenolic compounds are at the core of allelopathy, the plant’s capacity to inhibit the growth of other plants within the same ecosystem. These volatile gases can be emitted by all parts of the plant, and they form, more or less, a tree’s alphabet!

Victim Or Attacker?

Plants have found many ways to protect themselves against predator organisms, and the roles are now reversed.

Herbivores are being manipulated by the many plants in their environment and plants are no longer the victim. Insects and mammals pollinate the flowers, spread the seeds and eat plants – but not just any one of them, and not in too large a quantity, or they could spread the word and react in great number!

Photos: Dave Guillemette

Morphological Change, Physiological Development

GARDEN DESIGN

For those who enjoy sitting by a fountain in the park, or by a mountain stream to relax with the soothing sound of running water, I am here to tell you how you may bring that experience into your home by creating an indoor water feature that is both relaxing and easy to maintain. Whether you call it a fountain, a water garden or an indoor stream, most water features are composed of the same basic parts: • A reservoir to hold the water • A small water pump to move the water • A structure for the water to flow over (rocks, wood, or a sheet of glass) Once you have the basic elements you may add items to personalise your feature. Many people like to incorporate ambient lighting and plants into their fountains to add a natural look that complements the sound of running water.

This may easily be done and does not make maintenance any more difficult. Some may wish to adapt the feature to be a water fountain for pets. If you decide to make a feature for animals, be sure to think about what plants, if any, you incorporate into the feature, because a thirsty cat may also decide to snack on your bamboo if it is accessible.

Indoor water features have become very popular and are often available at home and garden centers all year round. Whether you want a pre-fabricated one that sits on a shelf or want to try your hand at making your own, the materials needed are usually easy to obtain.

I will tell you about some of the styles of water features

by

Edward Jackson

available and how to start your own.

The quickest and easiest way to have an indoor water feature is to go to a home and garden center to look at what is available. Most stores that carry them have a selection of styles and sizes. Some specialty garden centers will tend to have a larger selection ranging from 15 centimetres high to 1.8 meters high, all ready to receive water and be plugged in, so do a bit of looking around before you buy and you will have a better chance of finding one that fits well in your home.

The more ambitious may decide to make their own. Here are some hints on how to go about doing just that and what is required as far as planning and materials.

Planning your design is the most important part of the process: it will determine the lifespan, efficiency and look of the final product and will also give an indication of how long it will take to complete and how much it is going to cost.

I like to start by finding where I want the water feature to be. Knowing how much sunlight and how much household traffic that area gets are major factors in placing the water feature, especially if you plan to add plants. Think about the people and pets in your home and the likelihood of the water feature getting bumped or knocked over. Always keep in mind the water aspect of your feature – an overflow could mean water damage in your home or someone else’s if you live in an apartment. Water is heavy (1 gallon weighs 8.35 lbs, i.e. 1 litre weighs 1 kilogram); if you do not support the weight of a water feature properly, it could collapse, and cleaning up a collapsed water feature is not relaxing.

So armed with the possible setbacks in mind, pick a safe and accessible spot, and remember that you still want to be able to see it as well as hear it. With any fountain or trickling water feature, there is a chance that some water may splash a bit, so be careful around furniture and electricity and do your best to build a structure that will deter splashing. The area chosen will then help dictate how large or small you want to build your feature.

Another option is to set up an aquarium with aquatic plants.

It is less maintenance than one with fish and may be just as beautiful and rewarding. For this you will need an aquarium with a water pump, water heater, gravel or stones to hold the plants in place and aquatic plants, all of which are available at pet shops, usually as an aquarium start-up kit (not including the aquatic plants). Aquarium sizes and plant species vary a great deal and aquarium stones and gravel come in many

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Photo: Aquasculpture

Indoor Water Features,

GARDEN DESIGN colours, so it is fairly easy to find something that suits your home. Setting up is quite easy. Place the aquarium in your chosen location on a solid surface – because once an aquarium is full of water, it may be too heavy to move and might collapse a shelf or small table. Be aware that direct sunlight will affect water temperature and may encourage algae growth on the inside walls of the aquarium, which may block light thus affecting plant growth, so select your plants and the location of the aquarium accordingly.

Once you have chosen a location, fill the aquarium halfway with water. Without plugging it in, place the water pump where it will be when the aquarium is running – some are mounted on the side of the aquarium and others are submerged in the aquarium itself. Then place the water heater in a similar manner – heaters are also either sidemounted or submerged. Both the heater and the pump will be plugged in later.

Photo: Spirit Elements

Now you are ready to add the gravel or stones you have selected to hold the plants in place. Most stones and gravel need to be rinsed under running water before they are added to the aquarium, as dust on them may clog your water pump. I recommend placing them in a strainer and running warm water over them while gently stirring with your hand to help loosen any dirt on the gravel or stones.

Now that they have been rinsed you may place them in the aquarium. It is best to add them slowly rather than dumping them in all at once, not just because you could crack the aquarium but because of the displacement of the water created by adding the stones or gravel. It is the same principle as filling a bath tub to its full capacity then climbing in: water will be displaced and overflow. With the pump and heater in place, slowly add water to the half-filled aquarium to raise the water level. If you want the sound of trickling water, simply leave a 2-centimetre gap between the water surface and the return spout of the water pump. For a louder water running sounds, lower the water level in the aquarium, but be sure that it is not too low for the water pump or heater to work; if it is too low the pump will be “running dry” and eventually it will burn out the motor and stop working and heaters may explode if they are run dry.

Water pumps need to be submerged or have water running through them at all times and heaters need to be in water to work properly. Now that the water is at the level you want, plug in and turn the pump and heater on to let the water circulate. This will give you an idea of how quiet or loud your water sounds are.

plants to the aquarium. I prefer to leave the aquarium running without plants for at least a week once the water and gravel are in place, just to let the water quality stabilize as far as temperature and pH. You may also add aquatic plant food to prepare the water for when the plants arrive.

This step is not completely necessary, but if you are able to be patient it will provide a stable environment for the new plants. Remember that no matter where you acquire your aquatic plants, they are coming from a healthy, stable environment (or else they wouldn’t be growing) and throwing them into an aquarium of cold, unstable, nutrient-free water could be enough to kill them, so try to be patient during the set up process. It will save you return trips to buy new plants. When selecting your plants, talk to the salespeople about what you hope to achieve with your aquarium and let them know that there will be no fish to provide the plants with natural nutrients. They should be able to guide your selection and tell you of appropriate plant nutrients. When you are ready to add the plants, there are a few things to keep in mind while arranging them in the aquarium. Water pumps have an intake where water is drawn into the pump – there is a suction current created, which can pull plants into the pump if they are too close, so try to keep plants away from the intake area of your water pump. Another thing to consider is the spacing between plants, because as they grow they will spread out in all directions, even under the gravel and stones, so don’t place them too close together or they may compete for space and choke one another out.

After about a week you will notice better growth because the plants do need time to adjust to their new environment.

Over all, it is about a two week process to set everything up and have a healthy, stable aquatic garden. It may of course be done in an hour if you must, but my experience with all plants is that patience yields better harvests.

In the second part of this article, we will discuss other types of indoor water features.

Once everything is running to your satisfaction and all the gravel and stones are in place, the next step is introducing

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GALLERY

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Photos: Aquasculpture, Montreal

Aquasculpture…

GALLERY

Photos: Aquasculpture, Montreal

Aquasculpture…

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THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

plant health Photos: Bruno Bredoux & SADEF

Plant Foods – Part 3 Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many? by, William S. Burns on Begonia Rex caused by too much sun exposure.

Inset: Burns on a strawberry plant, caused by nutritive deficiencies.

When you need to give plants – especially valuable plants, heirlooms, rare species, friends’ plants that you are responsible for while they are away – an adequate nutritive solution that is neither too strong nor too weak, questions arise: which brand should you use and, within the available brands, should you make a horizontal choice, using one line of products, or a vertical association of specific products from different brands? There are many possibilities, an infinite quantity of associations and opinions all over the spectrum.

I – A Question Of Personal Choice And Of Experience! (B.B.) Trusting one brand over others starts with the preparation of soil. Some gardeners prefer to mix their own soil using their favourite products, as this gardener states on his personal web site (http://perso.club-internet.fr/kills/pages/nutri.html): “If you buy soil, you will probably not need to give nitrogen to the plants, but I prefer mixing my own soil because I do not have faith in commercial soil mixes. I know at least one large brand of soil that made a great quantity of potting soil using pondage water that contained too much boron, and nothing could grow in it. With extremely valuable exotic plants, I cannot allow myself to believe the opinion of strangers to make my soil. To be sure that it is well made, you must make it yourself.”

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plant health

Photos: Bio Nova & Bruno Bredoux

As for nutrients, whether we use the same product line or we alternate, the most important thing is not to use a heavy hand. Some indoor gardeners have acquired with the years the necessary experience to combine and associate brands: one product for cuttings, one for growth, another for flowering, etc. It works because they have tested their brand associations throughout the years. A beginner or an uncertain gardener will rather use a complete product line.

Some gardeners think it is better to alternate; others, after costly experiments, prefer to use only one product line, which allows them not to question everything. A gardener burnt by a destroyed crop due to over-fertilization caused by the successive application of several nutrient brands exclaims (as reported on his discussion forum): “Now I use all the nutrients from the same brand and I feel more at ease. I only add the BN-Zym bio-catalyst [Bio-Nova-brand enzymes, editor’s note], because it gives me good results. I rinse the substrate once every two weeks with BN-Zym. Other than that, I only use nutrients from the same brand.

No more mixing products from two companies!”

Manufacturers, of course, recommend that we use their entire product line. It is sometimes good, however, to listen to the advice of your hydroponic products salesperson. If you hesitate, ask the salesperson for his or her professional advice – it is based on foolproof experience. Public quality labels can also be interesting, if not an unavoidable point in favour of certain brands. A plant requires the perfect association of at least 17 nutritive elements to grow well – you are thus justified to hesitate and think things over before finding the products that will help it the most. The 17 essential elements are the following: light, carbon dioxide, hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, sulphide, molybdenum, iron, manganese, magnesium, boron, copper, zinc and chlorine. This list, however, is not exhaustive. Depending on the plant varieties grown, all kind of other macronutrients and micronutrients are required, from trace minerals to fresh ashes to granite dust!

A nutritive deficit is easily identifiable through the burns that can appear on your plant’s leaves. Some companies have specialized in the diagnosis of nutritional deficiencies from a photograph or a scan of the affected leaves! Most of those companies offer a complete analysis and recommend product lines from companies they are affiliated with.

Once again, your gullibility and your confidence will be put to the test. Each gardener must weigh the evidence and decide whom to trust. The SADEF is a French company (SARL) with 33 employees, based in Alsace (Aspach-leBas, Upper Rhine) that specializes in environmental and agronomic analysis and expertise. The company has an analysis lab to answer the international requests for analysis related to plant nutrition (www.sadef.fr). According to its motto, “Agriculture – whether French, European, even international – is more and more contractualized, both on a production level (food safety requirements, maintenance of soil production potential, etc.) and on an environmental constraint level (respect of directives on nitrate, phosphorous follow-up, livestock waste, spreading of garbage plans, etc.)

Analysis performed by laboratories officially recognized for their competence and impartiality will allow us to meet the agro-environmental world’s expectations as well as those of citizen consumers.”

All this mostly tends to confirm how plant nutrition is a serious, regulated and sensitive field. In this issue, William S. from Growing Edge Technologies (G.E.T.) gives us the best method to follow to use his company’s complete product line.

The products, collectively, are called “G.E.T. The Power”.

Freshly fertilized dahlia shoots.

II – A Family Of Nutriments: Get The Best Out Of The Growing Edge Technologies (G.E.T. The Power) Products! (William S.) It involves a bit of extra work, but as with any project that I have ever worked on, I found that a little extra care made for many years’ worth of fine enjoyment! Each of our B & B Hydroponic Gardens store managers has been taught this plant feeding method: feel free to ask any of them more specific questions regarding your specific applications.

As a plant goes through its natural stages of development, its needs for certain mineral elements increase. Using G.E.T.’s Power Products charged elements is recommended for the overall health of the plant. These products are designed to deliver that extra mineral element, which a plant requires VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

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plant health

You can use this family of products with any nutrient solution, soil or hydroponics.

1) The Chart Prepping soil:

add all dry ingredients, mix thoroughly together (Soil-less soil 107 l, Bat Power 250 ml, Kelp Power 250 ml, Gel Power 250 ml, Coal Power, lime (use a fine grit lime) 750 ml).

The Aroma Formula : Start building the nutrient solution using 12 ml of the Aroma Formula VA & VB concentrates (for vegetative growth) and 20 ml of the MB (Micro Base) concentrate per 10 litres of water for hydroponics and 15 litres of water for soilless soil. Change the nutrient solution every four days. Monitor the leaf colour to see if you need to increase or decrease the amount of VA & VB concentrates.

When the leaves are light green, it usually requires an increase of one ml of concentrate or more. When the leaves are dark green, hold or lower the amount of A& B concentrates. Always use 20 ml of the MB concentrate. For herbs, flowers and vegetables, use VA & VB with MB from seedling to the beginning of flowering or fruit production; at this time, switch to FA & FB with MB. Start mixing the Aroma Formula FA & FB solutions, 1 ml over the level that you were at during the vegetation stage. Keep increasing or decreasing based on the colouring of the leaves. Always use 20 ml of the MB concentrate. There are growers who only use 19 to 22 ml of the A& B concentrates, staying with a normal growth rate, which is highly recommended.

Cuttings : use Power Thrive at the rate of 4 ml per litre of water. Use nutrient solution at 3 strength.

Transplanting : use Power Thrive at the rate of 4 ml per litre of water and use Power Transplant.

Vegetation first 8 days : a) use Power Thrive at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water. b) use Power Start at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water.

Vegetation : use Power Start at the rate of 3 ml per litre of water.

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Vegetation last week : use Power PreFlowers at the rate of 3 ml per litre of water.

Flowering : use Power Preflowers at the rate of 3 ml per litre of water.

Flowering boost : use Power To Bloom at the rate of 1 ml (1 gram) per 10 litres of water. Four days later use Umph Power.

Flowering boost 4 days later: mist Umph Power at the rate of 4 ml per litre of water.

Last 4 weeks flowering : use Power Fruit Set at the rate of 3 ml per litre of water for the last four weeks of flowering.

(Power Start, Power PreFlowers, Power Fruit Set can be used as a growing medium drench, but also can be used as a foliar mist at the rate of 10 ml per litre of water).

Last week of flowering : use the Rinse Solution at the rate of 1 ml per liter of water. Depending on the shade of green you have, will take between – light green, 3 days, – dark green, observe 8 days, – of the Rinse Solution.

Hydroponics or plants planted in soilless soi l: use Sea Power at the rate of 5-10 ml per litre of water.

Humic fertilization: Humic Power a) soil: soak at 15 ml per 4 litres of water. b) hydroponics: 15 ml per 10 litres of water. c) soil to hydroponics: use at least three times per crop.

(May be used every time you water plants).

Fulvic fertilization : Fulvic Power at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water; mist plants once every two weeks. a) soil: soak at the rate of 5 ml per 10 litres of water. b) hydroponics: mix 1 ml per litre of water.

Warning : When trying something new, always test it on a few leaves or branches to make sure the product is compatible with your nutrient formula program. We are always trying our products at different stages and strengths. This allows us to find out what way works best, but you as the gardener will be monitoring your plants with a daily visit. And as the gardener, you will find out what will work best for you. So follow our instructions and then experiment.

Photo: Burns on Begonia Rex caused by too much sun exposure (Bruno Bredoux).

for development. Timing is everything! When applied at the proper time, the plants can benefit greatly. Do not use more than the recommended amounts until you are familiar with the product. Experiment with a few plants and see the results; try the product at different strengths and different times. We use very pure, high-grade mineral elements.

plant health 2) The “G.E.T. The Power” Products

Photos: B & B Hydroponic Gardens — Illustration: Anna Kanaras

• The Aroma Formula

so profusely that you will notice significant changes in three to four days. And wait until you see the results of the second application!

Garden plants don’t just thrive on the Aroma Formula but exceed their normal growth potential, with dynamic flowers and better overall health. G.E.T. has separated the various components and trace elements necessary for growth into five concentrated nutrient solutions, two for vegetative growth (VA & VB), two for flowering (FA & FB) and a chelated trace element compound {MB) used throughout the entire growth cycle. Adding the micro base separately ensures that these trace elements are not damaged by unfavourable pH levels. The Aroma Formula’s unique properties also enhance the aromatic oils produced by most herbs, resulting in a dense rich fragrance, which lends itself to any meal.

Power To Bloom should be used once plants are starting to bloom heavily, at about the third week of flowering. You will notice flowers starting to be reproduced like crazy; at this time, add Power To Bloom. Allow plants to utilize the fertilizer for two weeks before the next application.

• Power Thrive

• Rocket Power

Power Thrive is not a plant food. Power Thrive is a carefully formulated blend of vitamins and natural plant hormones derived from kelp, for use during all phases of plant development. Our chemist has discovered a unique way of extracting the valuable growth potential from kelp, one of the world’s fastest growing plants.

Power Thrive helps your plants survive during stressful periods of growth, especially when starting seeds, transplanting, or taking cuttings. Power Thrive also ensures a stronger, more vigorous vegetation growth.

When used during flowering, blooms become more vibrant and the fruit quality is enhanced.

Upward fluctuations in your nutrient solution’s pH is a sign that your plants are feeding heavily and are in great health.

A continual drop in pH indicates that the plant is fighting off a virus or bacterial infection in the root zone. Using fertilizer programs that have pH buffers is not an option, and it’s not as easy to continually monitor soil or soilless mediums. Rocket Power is designed to increase the health of a plant by giving it pure mineral elements and a kick-start of growth so that it can get a head start and fend off its disease. Use also if the surface of the leaves is dull – healthy leaves have a vibrant shine to them. Note: Apply to the root zone only!

• Power To Bloom Typical vegetation stage to flowering stage of plants.

Just a powder fertilizer?

No! It’s a proven flower enhancer!

Power to Bloom’s unique chemistry makes it work. When applied at the right time, it provides your plants with plenty of flower power. Plants will flower

• Umph Power When a plant is growing at a very rapid rate, some or all of the elements will be utilized at a very fast pace. We recommend misting your garden with Umph Power. Umph Power is formulated to provide key mineral elements that, when applied as a foliar mist onto the leaves, will bring out the oils.

• The Rinse Solution Most gardeners use water to flush the excess fertilizer salts from their plant roots, so that the remaining nutrients are utilized.

This ensures that the harvested plant contains fewer nitrates but it restricts the production of sugars and starches and slows the plant’s development.

The Rinse Solution provides fast acting sugars and starches that fuel growth

VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

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Indo

plant health

• Power Start This Power formula produces fast results on young plants.

Power Start helps to build stronger, larger, and healthier plant stock and roots, which are needed to achieve high yields of fruit and vegetables.

Apply Power Start at the first stage of foliage growth and continue every five to seven days.

• Power PreFlower This unique formula is for blossom set.

We formulated Power PreFlowers to be high in phosphate to stimulate the setting of blossoms on garden plants. Power PreFlowers is recommended at the first signs of blossoms. Always spray in the early moming, apply every five to seven days.

• Power Fruit Set This formula is designed to increase the setting of fruits, pods, tubers, etc. Apply Power Fruit Set when the plants are at about 70% bloom and 30% fruit. Always spray early in the morning. Apply Power Fruit Set every five to seven days.

• Transplant Power Give your transplants an added boost of growth during this critical time in their life – remember getting kicked out of the womb and those first few minutes of life when you cried? You wanted back in there! Well, think about the poor plant you just ripped out of the incubation tray and shoved under a harsher, much stronger light. Now you need to use Transplant Power with its vitaminenriched gel. Transplant Power sticks to the root ball and doesn’t easily wash away like most watersoluble fertilizers. It provides the roots with the mineral elements that the plant needs for a healthy start. The growth potential of Transplant Power is enhanced when mixed with plant hormones – such as Power Thrive – before use.

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THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

• Fulvic Power Fulvic Power is a gold-coloured liquid that, when applied as a foliar spray, will give plants a growth spurt or more flowering power. When applied to the soil, it will cause the roots to expand rapidly, looking to fuel their growth. More roots means healthier plants. (Fulvic Power is a by-product of the manufacturing of Humic Power.)

• Humic Power Humic acid helps the plant with its cationic and anionic exchange and results in more mineral elements flowing through the vascular system. Humic Power releases many minerals, vitamins, amino acids and growth enhancing compounds, for faster vegetation growth and increased flower formation.

Humic Power also has buffering capabilities for pH and high salt content and promotes better germination rates among seeds.

• Kelp Power and Sea Power For hundreds of years, island farmers have gathered kelp, washed out the sea salt and spread the dried kelp out on their fields before planting. With Sea Power, your plants can continue to benefit from the power of kelp during all stages of their growth development. Sea Power is a liquefied kelp concentrate that, like Kelp Power, contains many growth regulators and mineral elements. Sea Power is processed with fresh water to minimize any alteration in growth potential due to harsh chemicals.

• Gel Power Powerful Gel Power is a synthetic polyacrylamide with a potassium salt base. It is a safe, non toxic polymer used in all horticultural applications. When used according to the application rates, Gel Power can reduce irrigation frequency by 50% and last three to five years. Gel Power is specifically designed for the horticultural and agricultural industry to reduce the transplanting shock, reduce the stress from drought and to increase the aeration of the soil. Gel Power holds a lot of water; 5 ml of Gel Power will retain 500 to 750 ml of water.

Photos: B & B Hydroponic Gardens

while still allowing the plant to deplete the remains of certain mineral elements in its system. More growth, more fruit, better taste!

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plant health

A n Ecological Solution Against Fly Problems Par Daniel Gingras

There finally is an ecological and natural solution for fly control. The solution? Using microscopic beneficial worms called threadworms or nematodes.

To Each Insect Its Nematode There are many species of nematodes.

Each species attacks specifically a limited number of harmful pests.

Some nematodes attack beetles, some attack lepidoptera, others attack diptrous insects, and some species attack more than one group of pests. The most efficient nematodes to use against fly larvae are called Steinernema feltiae.

The most common flies controlled by S. feltiae are, among others, sciarid flies, small fruit flies and houseflies

When To Apply Nematodes It is advised to apply nematodes as soon as you observe adult flies or find larvae or pupae. For use outdoors, apply nematodes at dusk or under cloudy conditions.

Where To Apply Nematodes Nematodes must be applied on organic substrate, soil, coco fibre or on rock wool. They can also be introduced in a dripirrigation system or in other types of irrigation systems. Keep in mind, however, that these small beneficial worms are not fish: they can only survive in water for a few hours. Never apply nematodes directly to the plant or its leaves.

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Nematodes can also be used outdoors. You can use them, for example, in compost, manure or in a vegetable garden to control onion maggots, carrot flies or cabbage flies.

Why Use Nematodes?

Nematodes are useful because adult flies often are disease carriers and because fly larvae can affect the growth of plants.

S. feltiae efficiently control the larvae of many fly species and diptrous insects that develop in organic matter. When they find larvae, the small worms penetrate them through natural orifices such as the mouth, anus or others. Once in the blood stream, the nematodes release symbiotic bacteria that proliferate and cause the larvae’s death. The nematodes then develop by feeding off of the insect’s carcass. A few days later, thousands of tiny worms leave the carcass, bringing along the symbiotic bacteria. They are ready to infect other live larvae. Because of this mode of reproduction, the gardener will see the largest quantity of dead larvae a few days after the treatment, and not immediately after it. The nematode-infested larvae are usually brown, grey or black

Are They Dangerous For Plants A nd Humans?

Nematodes present no danger for plant health or human health. They do not affect plant growth.

Photos: Guy Bélair, Bibion & AEF Global Inc.

Where Can I Get Nematodes?

At AEF Global inc., a Québec-based company that is specialized in the research, development and commercialization of ecological solutions for the control of pests, diseases and weeds. The company can be reached at 1 866 622-3222, extension 114. For more information, see its web site: www.aefglobal.com.

INDUSTRY

Para Lumen Paradigm Shift

High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth – T5 and TT105

By Charles Winslow Photo: Charles Winslow

Pioneer light above peppers

Pioneer light above peppers

Through time, humanity on occasion has come up with quantum leaps in technology.

Hydroponics, the printing press, electricity, the light bulb, the radio, the TV, HID lighting, the Internet, and, yes, high intensity fluorescent indoor grow lights. They are a complete paradigm shift, a new way of looking at things.

Stephen R. Covey has said, “If you want to make small changes in your life, change your attitude and change your behavior. If you want to make quantum leap changes, then change your paradigm!” Indoor growing with high intensity fluorescent systems is just that: a quantum leap in indoor gardening. It means less heat and more production at less than half the energy consumption. It also means plants that are happier, healthier, and produce a greater yield.

Roots of peppers grown under a Pioneer light

In multiple controlled tests, we have documented a 25% increase in production with half the wattage for vegetative growth. We have seen 210 to 220 watts outperforming 400 watts metal halide lamps and 420 to 440 watts outperforming 1000 watt metal halide lamps. Not only did the plants produce more – they were healthier, with tighter internodal spacing and a hardier stem wall. The hardier plants also acclimated much better to being transplanted outdoors.

For some of us who have been indoor gardeners for over 30 years, this was unbelievable. I thought I was very wise when I said “Fluorescents are good for the first inch of growth – if that. Spindly, low production, weak plants, etc.” And yet! At no time in my life have I enjoyed eating my words more.

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Compared peppers under a HID light THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

High intensity fluorescents offer many advantages. Because the units consume half the energy, you can gang more units on a 15 amp system. The units can be hung vertically or horizontally for additional lower canopy plant lighting.

With less heat emitted, more units can be run with less ventilation, closer to the plants. The lamps have a much longer life than metal halides. Finally, their light spectrum is closer to daylight.

Most gardeners know that a plant’s canopy is very good at preventing light from reaching the lower parts of the plants.

With vertical lighting, this is no longer a problem. When the plants go into flowering, additional T5 or TT105’s can be hung on the sides of the plants or a sodium fixture can be placed over the canopy and the T5/TT105 can be moved to the sides for an increased production.

In the last month, we have done several transfers of hydroponic plants from indoor gardens to outdoors. The basil under T5’s performed beautifully with no loss. The peppers grown under a 1000-watt sodium lamp took a 60% loss. The new fluorescent lights drastically add new value and production for indoor gardening.

Vertical Pioneer light

INDUSTRY The Satellite Fluorescent Light II Test

By Charles Winslow It appears that in a side-by-side trial, the Satellite II fluorescent light surpasses metal halide lights.

In a three-month, side-by-side test, habañero pepper plants growing under a 210-watt Sunleaves Satellite II fixture exhibited healthier, more compact growth than habañero peppers grown under a standard 400-watt metal halide lamp. Aside from the spacing and the type of light offered, the growing conditions of the pepper plants were identical: hydroponic system, type and amount of nutrients, substrate and light cycle duration.

All plants were grown in continuous aeration hydroponic systems. In each system, a submersible pump suctioned to the bottom of the nutrient reservoir continually splashed Technaflora’s Recipe for Success vegetative growth formula onto the roots. The pepper plants were started in horticultural grow plugs and then placed in plastic net cups containing expanded clay pellets.

With regard to light intensity, the Satellite II, equipped with two full-spectrums TT-105 fluorescent “grow” bulbs, emitted a total of 21,000 lumens and the metal halide lamp put out 30,000 lumens. The pepper plants were positioned as near each light as possible without scorching – 46 centimetres from the metal halide lamp and 10 centimetres from the fluorescent fixture. Despite the marked difference in total lumen output, light meter readings taken at the plant canopy level registered higher for plants growing under the Satellite II. Plants received 18 hours of light daily.

Figure 1 – On the left, habañero pepper seedlings grow under the metal halide lamp while seedlings on the right grow under a fluorescent light.

Note: metal halide and fluorescent lights are contained on each side with the help of a hanging Mylar divider.

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Figure 2 – Pepper plants growing under the metal halide lamp on the left appear slightly taller and paler than plants growing under fluorescents on the right.

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Peppers under Pioneer light

Figure 3 – In addition to setting some early blooms, the plants growing under fluorescents exhibit more compact growth with visibly shorter inter-nodal spacing.

Figure 4 – The pepper plants on the left have now set some blooms, but, overall, the vegetative growth looks “leggy” with very long inter-nodal spacing. The plants on the right have larger leaves and denser growth.

Photo: Charles Winslow, Agriculture & Agro-Food Canada & Howard Resh

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Value: 4 x 111.98$, i.e. 447.92$ on the whole.

Distributed by: www.megawatthydro.com or 1-800-575-2515 or Jurassic Products: 1-888-381-5252 Prizes will be awarded by draw among the subscribers (all subscription slips received by Green Publications as of August 31, 2006). We will contact the winners and put them in touch with the companies, who will then tell them how to claim their prize. By participating in this context, the winners accept that their name and city of residence be published in the magazine. This draw is only available for subscribers residing in Canada or the United States.

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plant PHYSIOLOGY

By Red from Hydro-Sciences

To understand what the root mass or the root system is, we

zone where cells are constantly dividing. Above is the cellular

must first answer a few questions:

elongation zone, where the cells elongate and differentiate

• What is its function and what does it do?

• It must then be defined, as there are many types of root masses, and each takes a different form.

• Finally, we must know where the roots come from and how they differ from the mass.

The root is the underground part of the plant, and it has two functions: to fixate the plant in soil, and to feed the entire plant through the absorption of water and of the nutritive substances required for its development – the root’s extension allows the plant to get water from further and further layers. It is important to note that the soil’s drainage

under the influence of the auxin. Then comes the maturing zone, where the cells take on their final shape. The exterior layer of cells in the maturing zone, the epidermis, bears the root hair. The root hair are the root’s main absorption agent – the sap (water and minerals) is first diffused through the root hair’s cell wall, then travels through the root’s conductive vessels and, finally, through those of the stem, to finally reach the leaves.

The water and mineral salts that the hair pumps go through the bark to reach the root core and the conductive tissues. The xylem allows the xylem sap to go up to the leaves (photosynthesis) and the phloem allows elaborated sap to go back down to the roots (storage).

and irrigation play an important role in the

Elaborated sap contains glucose (C6H12O6), a monosaccharide ∞,

quality and quantity of the root mass and of

an energy source for plants, which will be transformed into

the nutritive exchanges.

The plant’s root system can take on many different shapes and forms. There are, among others, primary roots, secondary, capillary and tap roots. The root system can be made up of a single large root (taproot) on which lateral or secondary roots develop, as is the case for oaks, radishes, carrots, etc.

The root system can be made up of equally important roots (fasciculated roots), each bearing many lateral roots, as in apple trees and grains. Adventitious roots (roots of the strawberry runners, of ivy shoots, etc.) are roots that come from a stem or a rhizome.

Depending on the environment and the conditions, the roots

cellulose or starch during one of the plant’s three mains metabolisms,

the

carbohydrate

metabolism, or glycogenesis. The sugars are stored in the roots in that form, starch or cellulose.

Starch and cellulose are glucose polymers or polyosides, complex sugars

following

a

(C6H10O5)n

formula. Cellulose is responsible for the branches and stem’s rigidity and gives plants their fibrous structure. Starch and cellulose are the plant’s energy reserves.

The plant uses these carbohydrates in different ways:

can sustain remarkable changes: there are buttress roots, that

• as an immediate source of energy (because of respiration) to

seem to prop up entire trees (fig tree) or that seem to hold

function, grow, reproduce, absorb nutritive elements, etc.

it above the soil and water (as in many equatorial species), creeping roots, sucker roots (as in the vanilla tree), etc.

• to store energy reserves: for example, before winter, the plant stores sugars as starch. These reserves allow it to survive winter and to start growing again early in the spring.

When the cutting or the clone first starts, the cell that will become a root cell is like all others. Under the influence of a hormone – the auxin – contained in the rooting gel or

• to form plant tissue: sugars can be transformed (proteins, lipids or complex sugars) into leaves, wood, flowers, fruit,

synthesized by the plant itself in smaller quantities, however,

roots, etc.

the cell elongates to become a draft root, which will then develop just like the seed’s radicle (see below), and the whole

The bigger the root mass, the most water and nutrients it

of the roots will form the root system.

can grab, and the most energy reserves it can set aside. More

The first root to develop from a seed is the radicle. It comes from the embryo contained in the seed and in a few days it

energy means a more abundant yield, which brings us back to the beginning: more roots, more fruits!

will shoot out ramifications that become the first secondary roots. At the end of the primary root, we find the rootcap. It is

52

∞

Simple sugars always contain C, O and H. To be more precise, they always

a kind of shield that protects the radicle and allows it to forage

contain the same number of C and O and twice as much H, so a simple

through the substrate. Just behind the rootcap is the growth

sugar always follows the general formula (CnH2nOn)x times.

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Photos: D.R.

More Roots, More Fruits

RECIPE

Cooking

Gary’s Grand-Mother’s Red Cabbage Recipe

(Transmitted through oral tradition)

Red cabbage is the tenderest and the softest of all cabbages and is too often reserved for raw salads. A member of the headed cabbage family, red cabbage is not only different by its pigmentation but also because it is the headed cabbage with the firmest head. Beware: if the red cabbage is too dark, if its color resembles that of purple ink, it is no longer good to eat.

In any case, to avoid bloating, we recommend combining red cabbage to carminative herbs (cumin, caraway) or to condiments like fennel seeds. Here then is a traditional German recipe that is gustatory, digestible, amusing and very nutritious.

You will need: • 1 large red cabbage (approximately 600 gr) • 30 ml brown sugar • 250 ml shortening (or cooking oil) • 250 ml beef fat (or duck fat) • 1 big onion, chopped • 2 or 3 untreated tart apples • 30 ml cider vinegar • 1 large dash of crushed caraway seeds • 1 bay leaf • 2 cloves • 1 thyme cluster (or wild thyme) • salt • pepper • nutmeg (optional) • beef broth (or cider) In a cast iron terrine that can be used on a stovetop, melt the brown sugar in the shortening (or cooking oil) and the fat. When the sugar has melted in the fat, brown the coarsely chopped onion. While the onion slowly becomes golden, carefully chop the red cabbage to obtain thin slices, as you would for cole slaw. When the onion is done, add

54

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Sourish

the chopped red cabbage and the tart apples, coarsely chopped (they will taste better with the skin on, which is why I suggest trying to get untreated apples).

Stir every once in a while for the ingredients to mix well.

Add the cider vinegar, the dash of crushed caraway seeds, the bay leaf, the thyme or wild thyme, and the two cloves.

Salt and pepper to taste and add, if you so wish, the nutmeg (but not too much!).

Cover and allow to simmer, stirring from time to time. Wet with beef broth or cider when the cooking liquid evaporates.

The dish will be cooked when the red cabbage slices become almost neon-coloured and almost translucent.

This dish is delicious as a side-dish to white pudding (it is the traditional German Christmas meal), but also with white sausage or white meat. Serve it with a nutmeg-perfumed tart apple sauce.

Photos: Cover of the book “Cuisiner comme un chef à Paris” (Parigramme), Kahuna Burger, & La Côte de Vincent.

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ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIGHTING AND HYDROPONICS 7100 N Broadway, #3D Denver, CO 80221 Tel: (303) 428-5020 Toll free: (800) 886-5020 Fax: (303) 428-1003 www.rockymountainlightingandhydroponics.com

116 West Orangeburg Avenue Modesto, CA 95350 www.cocas-hydroponics.com Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM Saturday: 10AM-4PM

1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite G Colton, CA 92324 Tel: (909) 824-9376

Tel: (408) 866-8176 Fax: (408) 866-8187 We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN

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* Best prices (949) 348-2424 www.GotHydro.com in Orange County 27665 Forbes Rd Bld #1 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677

B E R K E L E Y INDOOR GARDEN

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PLANT’ IT EARTH 1 Dorman Ave San Francisco, CA 94124 (415) 970-2465 www.plantitearth.com

THE GROWCERY STORE 1501 Lee Hill Road, #17 Boulder, CO 80304 (303) 449-0771 www.thegrowcerystore.com

5561 South Orange Blossom Trail Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769

23529 Little Mack Ave. St.Clair Shores,MI 48080 USA Toll Free; 1-866-493-7627 www.tcs-hydroponics.com 1866-HYDRO-CS (1866-493-7627)

10051 North 2nd St. Laurel, Maryland 20723 301-490-9236 866-MD-HYDRO WWW.mdhydro.com

THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA THE GROW ROOM 8 Bridge Street Nyack, NY 10960

AHL Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd SE Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108 phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505255-7417

1555 Hurffville Rd Sewell, NJ 08080 Tel.: (856) 227-6300 Toll free: 1-888-927-6300 Fax: (856) 227-2930 www.tastyharvest.com

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Fax: (845) 348-8811

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"Our Business Is Growing" Your Indoor Outdoor Gardening Specialists 93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420 (541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754

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3839 6th Ave Tacoma, WA 714 South Central (253) 761-7478 Kent, WA www.indoorgarden.com (253) 373-9060 www.indoorgarden.com

Grow Monster Plants 394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235 Underhill, Vt 05489 Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376 www.hooked-on-ponics.com

23303 Highway 99, Suite A Edmonds, WA (425) 673-2755 www.indoorgarden.com

BOOK REVIEW

By Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D. (Nature Technologies Publisher) The new book by the team at Nature Technologies has just been released, and it is exclusively sold online (www.nature-technologies.com). Co-written by Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D. (who wrote about the use of compost tea in hydroponics in The Indoor Gardener Magazine (see Vol.1 – Issue 4, pages 40 to 45), this book mainly discusses the biological methods to use to plan the steps that will allow you to move from conventional culture to sustainable culture. The two Ph.D.-holding writers offer laymen readers clear and precise texts that tell them the steps to follow to maximise the positive results in any cultivation system, whether it is conventional, sustainable or organic. In the same way, the principles developed in the book do not only apply to indoor hydroponics in a controlled environment – the advice and techniques provided extend to soil-less methods and even to outdoor field crops! This book will show you how using appropriate biological methods will ensure the protection of your plants against disease, will reinforce nutrient absorption, will help your plants eliminate toxins, bacteria and residue for a more significant yield. The authors also explain how to develop the propagation of beneficial organisms, such as bacteria, specific fungi, protozoa and nematodes. Light is shed on the mystery of beautiful healthy plants – you will know all about basic biology and the chemistry cycle of the nutritive solution. Available online or at N.T.I., P.O. box 1603, Sonoma, CA 95476, for US$19.95 (+ shipping – $3.95 in the USA or $9.95 for international orders).

56

– B.B. THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Photo: N.T.I.

Adding Biology In Soil And Hydroponic Systems

THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA

Canada

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St-John

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1-800-489-2215

www.hydroponix.com Hydroponics, fertilizers, lighting Home of Optimum Hydroponix®

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Phone: (506) 458-9208 Facsimile: (506) 459-1377 Email: scotts@scottsnursery.nb.ca www.scottsponix.com

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bma 404 Maitland Drive #2 Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5 (613) 967-9888 www.bmacanada.com

GIVE YOUR PLANTS WHAT THEY NEED

Peterborough Hydroponic Center 347 Pido Road Unit 32 Peterborough Ontario Phone/Fax 745-6868 Toll Free 1-866-745-6868 Manufacturer of PHC Garden Products www.hydroponics.com

4-2133 Royal Windsor drive Mississauga, Ontario L5J 1K5

(905) 403-GROW (4769) 1-877-263-6287

www.secondnaturehydroponics.com

For sales and advertising, contact:

sales@indoorgardenermagazine.com

For any information, comment or request, contact submit@indoorgardenermagazine.com.

For sales and advertising, contact sales@indoorgardernermagazine.com.

Subscribe & WIN!!!

If you want to send us pictures and articles, please contact us at: submit@indoorgardenermagazine.com with “submission” in the subject line and we will get in touch with you.

GROW

COME AND WITH US!

plant health

By V.G. and S.C. Thanks to HydroTek, who owns the American continent distribution rights, the Dutch products Hesi, already wellknown in Europe, have recently landed in North America.

An Original Nutrient Line Hesi-brand plant nutrients have been designed for three different types of culture: in soil, in hydroponics and on coco fibre. With each product, Hesi gives the customer a calendar corresponding to the duration of growth and flowering cycles in each of the three substrates, as well as a schedule of the required use of each nutrient.

The originality of the new Hesi, Hesi-Hydro and Hesi-Coco nutrients is that the company has chosen to market a unique, pre-mixed product instead of splitting the nutrients in A + B parts, as is the norm. This type of nutrient, as a unique mixture, brings about many advantages for the gardener.

The product is easy to use, and also very stable. This stability is required to preserve all of the product’s qualities, from its packing to its distribution to the roots of the user’s plants. The advantages are both financial and ecological: less on-site handling, less time wasted dosing, fewer empty containers to recycle, less storage space needed, etc.

S.C.’s Recipe With Hesi Products (Reproduced From His Blog) “After spending a month gathering information on Internet forums and grow guides, I set up my small indoor garden and placed by newborn plants within. Here are the steps I followed for my first harvest, in hydroponics; I am using only Hesi products, except for Bio-Nova’s BN-Zym biocatalyst.

Supplies: • Orion Hydroponic Mini-Centre and lighting support; • Sylvania Metal Halide 400W bulb; • Aquarium air stone placed in the reservoir next to the pump; • A hygrometer thermometer; • Mylar-covered walls; • 52m3 /minute circulating fan; • 140m3 /minute air extractor placed at the top of the closet for now but that will soon be moved to the bottom of the door as an injector so that I can install an RVK 365 m3 /minute air extractor instead.

Products and nutrients: I use the full line of Hesi products: • Hesi Root Complex; • Hesi hydro growth; • Hesi Super Vit; • Hesi pH down; • and Bio Nova’s BN-Zym biocatalyst.

Other characteristics: • Hydro system: drip irrigation • Substrate: rock wool • Seeds/types of plants to germinate: to be determined.

At first I put the seeds in germination pucks for 10 days and on the eleventh day (D+11 from the beginning of germination), I inserted the plantlets into rock wool cubes that I had previously decompressed for 12 hours with an adjusted-pH solution into which I added BN-Zym.

58

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Photos: Hesi.nl and S.C.

HESI Products: A Formula Adapted To Growth And Flowering

For my first reservoir solution, I prepared a 10-litre solution with: • 5mL/L of water of Hesi Root Complex; • 1 drop/5L of Hesi Super Vit; • 1,5mL/L of water of Hesi Hydro Growth.

This gave me a 0.4 EC. The pH seems to have stabilized around 6, but I test it often and I correct it as required with Hesi’s pH Down. During the day, the temperature is at 25°C. I don’t yet know about night-time, because I have only just purchased my thermo/hygrometer. As for humidity, since I started the meter it has varied between 40 and 45%.”

(Source: S.C.’s blog – www.forum.com/sujet-36064-2).

A Few Details on Hesi-Brand’s Newest Products • Hesi Super Vit is a product made up of 25 vitamins and of trace minerals, which create a concentrated stimulant for an improved growth and flowering. This product accelerates plant metabolism while activating the hormones responsible for growth and flowering. It also reinforces the formation of heavy, luxurious, coloured and perfumed flowers. Hesi Super Vit can be used in any of the three growing environments for which Hesi products have been designed.

Photos: Hesi.nl and S.C.

• Clonfix is a rooting powder designed to perfectly adhere to the stem, hence favouring the formation of new roots on the cutting. This rooting stimulant is recommended for the propagation by cuttings in substrate destined for hydroponics, such as rock wool or coco cubes. Integrated into Clonfix is a complex mix of vitamins, minerals, trace minerals and an anti-microbial agent to ensure the protection of your new plants.

SHOPPING Cool-operating Sunleaves Pioneer fluorescent fixtures are particularly suited for supplementing high intensity light during hot summer months. Available in four-, six- and eighttube configurations, Pioneer fixtures boast distinctive widedispersion reflectors to cover a generous growing area and include either Sunleaves VitaLUME T5 grow or bloom tube types. Depending on tube quantity, the output of Pioneer Grow fixtures range between 16,800 and 33,600 lumens, while Pioneer Blooms range between 17,600 and 35,200 lumens. Great for beginners and experts alike, Pioneer fixtures are user-friendly and guaranteed by a five-year warranty. Find additional information on Sunleaves Pioneer fixtures and replacement VitaLUME tubes online at www.sunleaves.com.

Horticultural Novelties

The Fluorescent Frontier

New eLux 600-Watt Electronic Ballasts are the latest in horticultural lighting technology. Internal microprocessors have replaced the mechanical components found in common HID ballasts to give eLux ballasts increased longterm efficiency and lumen maintenance. Both of the 120and 240-volt eLux models are factory tested and guaranteed by a two-year warranty and their competitive pricing makes them as affordable as they are dependable. Wall-mountable eLux ballasts measure 38 x 15 x 14.6 cm, weigh less than three kilos each, include a detachable 2.5 metre power cord and are compatible with most HID cordsets, including the Sunleaves cordset. Stop by your local year ‘round garden center to find out more.

K.B.

Sunleaves Aurora Reflectors

Long Life Net Cups Made of reinforced black plastic, Long Life Net Cups withstand multiple uses and support most types of growing media.

Available in 7.6 and 14 cm sizes, these durable net cups are compatible with several hydroponics systems and are also great for gardeners making their own one-of-a-kind set up. Long Life Net Cups are hitting shelves nationwide – stock up with a visit to your favourite hydroponics supplier.

K.B.

Soil and hydroponics gardeners can nourish plants, increase overall yields, and sweeten the flavour of their favourite fruits and vegetables naturally with the complete new line of Hydro-Fusion nutrients. Sweet & Heavy is the three-part program with Prime (0-0-1), Grow (3-1-4) and Bloom (26-4) while Sugar Peak Vegetative (3-1-5) and Flowering (24-5) constitute the convenient two-part formulation. Each Hydro-Fusion component supplies easily-assimilated macroand micro-nutrients derived from molasses and marine-bird and bat guanos. Visit your local year ‘round garden center to find out more.

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Simplifying indoor garden expansion, Sunleaves Aurora and Aurora 6 Reflectors have been designed to work together to achieve optimal coverage and effectively control dark spots when interconnected. Measuring 45 x 33.5 x 28 cm, each Aurora features retainer tabs to secure an optional safety lens as well as a standard socket receptacle for compatibility with most remote ballasts. Every Aurora 6 also comes flanged and includes the tempered glass lens, making them perfect candidates for active ventilation, especially in gardens receiving carbon dioxide supplementation.

Point your browser to www.sunleaves. com to see the complete line of Sunleaves garden products and find out where to buy in your area.

K.B

Natural Nutrients

60

K.B.

K.B.

Grotek® Seedling Heat Mat and Heat Mat Thermostat The best temperature at the root zone is between 27–20ºC (80– 68ºF). The heat mat will warm the growing medium up. And to keep the heat mat temperature accurate, use the heat mat thermostat. It works like a min/max thermometer that ensures heat accuracy while you are away. It will even let you know temperatures in your grow room when you’re out of town!

W.S.

Photos: Worm’s Way & B & B Hydoponic Gardens

Deluxe Lighting with eLux Ballasts

SHOPPING Atami’s Root Aid Atami America is pleased to announce that its highly anticipated rooting gel has joined the B’Cuzz propagation product family.

B’Cuzz Root-Aid gel has been recently approved by the CFIA. This formulation has been designed specifically for the retail hydroponics market. B’Cuzz Root Aid Gel combines both indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) and several proprietary inert compounds which make this gel the most advanced and effective rooting product to be introduced to the retail hydroponics market. The combination of NAA and IBA will ensure your cuttings root rapidly and, most importantly, a larger number of roots will be the ultimate result.

IBA as a stand alone rooting hormone will degrade over time and is light sensitive. Hormone levels will thus vary according to when the product was manufactured and how long it has been stored at a retail outlet. The addition of NAA ensures stability so no matter when gardeners purchase B’Cuzz Root-Aid Gel, they can be assured they will get the consistent hormone levels required to achieve maximum performance. B’Cuzz Root Aid Gel is available in 2 oz, 4 oz and 8 oz. www.atami.com.

D.M.

The ARI Reactor MX120 Carbon Filter The Reactor MX120 is the ideal carbon filter and scrubber for small areas. Its main advantage is the ease with which you can replace the carbon: simply remove the two thumb-screws to release the fan. Once the fan is removed, pour out the old used carbon and replace with a new bag of ARI carbon. Then, pop the fan back into place, reinstall the thumb-screws and the filter is ready for use.

The Reactor MX120 now features an engineered MERV-8 prefilter with a tackified antimicrobial biocide tested under ASHRAE 52.25 with an average efficiency of 49%. Multiple units can be deployed in an environment, although the unit is also perfect for small closets and similar enclosures. The filter comes complete with an integrated hanging hook and a 1.8-meter power cord.

available in metal too. It is just as easy to refill, and is very similar to its wood counterpart. There are a few differences: there are no pre-filters on the metal version, and it has been powder-coated to an attractive matte black finish. The metal version has no hanging hook, and has two hasps instead of the handy thumb-screws.

Photos: Atami, A.R.I. & Green Air

Dimensions

12 x 12 cm

housing. Each synchronous motor driven time switch has 96 nondetachable 15 minute on\off trippers, a separate power cord and a duplex outlet. Function indicator lights display outlet power mode. outlet offers 10 amp switching capacity at 120 VAC. For

the

basics

in

garden

room

control,

the

24-CT-1 combines a timed duplex outlet with a thermostatically controlled duplex outlet. Ideal for

Specifications 365 g

The 24-DT-1 features two independent 24-hour clock timers in one

Use for lighting, pumps, solenoids, relays, fans, etc. Each duplex

The Reactor MX120 was always made of wood, but now it is

Carbon mass

Presenting Green Air Products’ 24-DT-1 24-Hour Dual Timer and 24-CT-1 24-Hour Timer with Cooling Thermostat

operating

equipment,

lighting,

watering

CO2

systems,

fans, etc., the 24-CT-1 provides a

simple

economical

control

solution for small greenhouses

Carbon bed width

65 mm

Internal carbon surface

419750 m2

thermostat offers a 7 degree comfort zone and

Carbon type

Coconut shell virgin activated carbon flake

the outlets operate independently – neither

Ducting

None - scrub application

Recommended air flow

105 CFM integrated fan

Weight

2.27 kg

and corrosion resistant black anodized chassis, like all Green Air

Construction

Metal / wood / cast aluminum

Products controllers, the 24-DT-1 and 24-CT-1 are built to last and

Sheet metal

24 g galvanized

Special treatments

Inside/outside with preservative / waterproof coating

and indoor gardens. The internal

defeating the other. Operates on 115 VAC with 12 amp switching.

Constructed with the same top quality components

perform for years to come.

For more information on these or other Green Air Products equipment, call (800) 669-2113 or visit www.greenair.com.

H.J.

T.I.G.

VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

61

SHOPPING An independent manufacturer who plays with the big boys!

Quality and price-wise, the products will surprise you and you will find them a place with the big brand products. The three-step Acme Series fertilizer – a mixture of three parts, easy to use, enriched with fulvic acid, pH-adjusted – is declined as follows: Acme Micro, Acme Grow and Acme Bloom.

Combined to Herb Science’s Miracle Thrive B1– a high-quality formula containing auxins, cytokinins and other necessary hormones – these three parts strengthen the plant’s immune system to increase its resistance to stress, pests and disease. They also stimulate and accelerate the growth and flowering development. Add Mag-I-Cal, also from the Acme Series, and you can use it anywhere to obtain a nutritive supplement that contains magnesium, iron and calcium, prevent burns caused by overfertilization, provide basic elements for an improved chlorophyll and a strong stem, as well as a foliar spray that is very efficient once added to the nutrient mix.

I tested this product line with the Organa-Add products (see below). The results I got were breath-taking: 45 centimetres of growth in two weeks with expanded clay pellets and using the recipes on the containers. It is also very satisfying in soil – child’s play, really.

D. Lesage

Higrocorp’s Organa-Add 2-0-0 and 0-2-0 Combiner Organa-Add replaces powder products: it is a liquid product, environmentally friendly, that leaves no residue on plants. It is even easier to measure in this liquid form. Among its many advantages, it maximizes flowering and the production of large fruit, increases the nutrient absorption rate, increases the photosynthesis process and favours an improved growth of crops, all the while increasing the quantities of essential oils produced.

Used in combination with a hydroponic, aeroponic or in soil fertilization program, the product will not clog emitters, pipes or pumps. As a foliar spray, it is efficient on cuttings

62

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

and through all the steps of growth. Organa-Add is made up of a combination of hydrolized proteins and organic vitamins and chelates – it is a heterocyclic mixture, meaning that it favours the formation of bioactive molecules. The results are surprising, especially when tested with Herb Science’s three step program.

D. Lesage

Seramis® Natural Clay Pellets Seramis® Natural Clay pellets are made from first rate natural clays. They are then baked following our orignal patented process and transformed into porous granules, capable of retaining over 100% their weight in water and of giving it back to the plant according to its needs.

T.I.G.

Dr Doom Fumigators Total Release Fumigators, the only Pyrethrumbased fumigator available in Canada. They are made with 0.40 pyrethrin and 2.0% PBO. No residue. Pyrethrum breaks down within hours for quick re-entry time. A very affordable alternative to an exterminator. High pressure fumigator. One spraying kills exposed stages of mosquitoes, ticks, fleas, cockroaches, ants, spiders, and flies. 150 grams.

G.

Brio Watering Can A classic! This 1.5 litre watering can is made of hot dip galvanized metal. It has a handle, a plastic rose head and a galvanized watering mesh.

Offered models are round or oval, with a galvanized finish – either natural or tinted green and varnished.

T.I.G.

Oxo Pot Gardening Tools These tools, stored in a big plastic basket, have a nonslip handle. In the basket, you will find, among others, pruning shears with a loop for your finger, a graduated trowel, etc. Order on www.oxo.com.

T.I.G.

Photos: Herb Science, Dr. Doom, Oxo & D.R.

Herb Science – Acme Series from 147 488 Canada Inc.

SHOPPING House And Garden Van De Zwaan Makes Its North American Debut

House and Garden Aqua Flakes A&B is a complete base nutrient designed for recirculating hydroponic systems. Because of its smart nutrient composition, the solution remains fresh and pure.

This allows for optimal nutrient uptake, feeding after feeding.

64

A&B Hydro Nutrients ( for drain to waste systems ) The smart composition of the various elements provides commercial gardeners with the ideal means of ensuring an optimal nutrition to the plants both in the growth and flowering stages.

A&B Coco Nutrient Coco requires an extremely precise composition of the various minerals, something you can safely leave to House & Garden. As soon as it was released, this excellently balanced nutrient gathered a following of commercial gardeners, making it an important player on the coco market.

1-Component Soil Nutrient Over the last few years, this top seller has generated a high degree of customer satisfaction. Because of its unique composition and easy to use formula, many customers think this nutrient is by far the best there is.

A&B Soil Nutrient Never before have nutrients and soil been so well attuned. The unique composition of the nutrient ensures that soil and nutrients are used to their full advantage, which gives the plant optimal strength during the growth and flowering periods.

Magic G reen Magic Green is a boost, administered trough foliar feeding, for mother plants, rooted and unrooted slips and growing plants.

It is absorbed directly by the leaves and brings back the plant’s dark green color and vitality. Magic Green is a gentle plant agent that works within two days.

THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

Roots Excelurator This powerful root stimulator ensures the explosive growth of the roots and rids the plant of brown roots, root disease, and mould.

Bud XL Bud XL has the unique ability to extract sugars from the leaf of the plant and to transfer them to the fruit. The fruit is thus made sweeter and its taste is improved.

Bud XL also increases the size and robustness of the flowers, resulting in an increased fruit production and a greater turnover.

Multi Enzyme Multi Enzyme is an extremely useful growth stimulator. It accelerates and simplifies the growth process and strengthens the plant’s immunity. The enzymes convert the nutrient into ready-to-use bits, making them easy to assimilate.

Photos: House and Garden Van De Zwaan

You too can now discover the nutrients and stimulants made in the Netherlands.

TopBooster Top Booster is an excellent flowering stimulator that acts on the basis of potassium, phosphorus and Eddha-Fe (iron).

These elements are crucial during flowering: potassium at the beginning of the flowering stage and phosphorus for the proper development of fructification. The Eddha-Fe additive ensures a better coloring of the leaves.

Shooting Powder This sparkling Bud Expander is the absolute best in the field of flowering stimulators. It gives visible results, can be combined with all basic nutrients, is packed in handy sachets, is simple to use and has been extensively tested.

Canadian Sales: Frank Pohl, 604716-2150 US wholesaler: Humboldt Wholesale, 707-840-9932 www.house-garden.ca F.P. & H.J.

Q&A

ONE QUESTION… TWO ANSWERS! We return to the question and answer formula which was met with enthusiasm in our first issue. Keep sending us your questions at submit@indoorgardenermagazine.com. Our experts are awaiting them impatiently!

Q

3) There are so many different Pro-Mix products Hi!

that if you choose the right product you will not

I have a decision to make this year. My supplier has recommended Heavy

need to add anything. There is a specific Pro-Mix

Harvest Spring, Summer, Fall & Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom. Which one

for every application that you can imagine. For growing indoors use Pro-Mix

do you recommend and which one is the best? Also, I am looking for

VP (Very Porous). For growing outdoors or in dry areas, use Pro-Mix H2O or

a product which will increase the root mass (Power Thrive or 10-52-10

the hanging basket mix, which has water retention crystals. There is even a

but more potent)? I only use Pro-Mix, without adding anything... I know

brand new formula, Pro-Mix SOG. But your supplier may be limited to the

I should, but what? I’m looking for quantity.

general purpose Pro-Mix BX. Do, do, do!

Thanks and happy growing to all!

Fred

Éric.

A

P.S.: Mycorrhizal fungi have occurred naturally in the soil for 400 million

Hi Éric, It sounds like your supplier is pushing Advanced Nutrients and doesn’t know

years. They form a close symbiotic relationship with plant roots. They are

what he is selling. The Heavy Harvest line is a slow release that you use

meaning roots). However, in most soils that have been disturbed by residential

outside once every 4 weeks. Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom are to be used as

construction or intensive cropping practices with applications of fertilizers

a constant feed, in every watering.

containing pesticides and other chemical products, the mycorrhizae content

If you are growing in your backyard or somewhere close, where you can

has considerably diminished, and has become insufficient to significantly

have a 100L reservoir and see your plants every day or two, I say go with

enhance plant growth. When mycorrhizal fungi colonize the plant’s root

the Sensi Grow and Bloom 2+ program! I know it’s a bit expensive but

system, they create a network that increases the plant’s capacity to absorb

take a look at the Sensi Pro kits; it’s the easiest way to use all of Advanced

more water and nutrients such as phosphorus, copper and zinc. This process

Nutrients technology.

in turn enhances growth and favors rapid development of roots and plants.

When you are growing somewhere that you can only get to once a week or

A

less, slow release is the only way to go!

Photos: D.R., Advanced Nutrients & GroTek

On every package of Advanced Nutrients there is a 1-800 number. You

called mycorrhizae (from the Greek “mukés”, meaning fungus, and “rhiza,”

Hi Éric, I don’t know if you are growing indoors or out, in soil or hydro, but here’s

should give them a call. The tech guy is really good!

what I know about the products.

2) A very long time ago I came across an article on the world’s largest living

The Spring, Summer & Fall series is commonly used in soil outdoors and the

organism. It turned out to be a fungus living on the roots of oak trees. This

Sensi Grow & Bloom are usually used with hydroponic systems. I haven’t

particular oak grove was 4 kilometres in diameter. These trees were bigger,

worked with either of those products; I use General Hydroponics’ Flora Nova

healthier and grew much faster than trees in other oak groves in the area. It

Grow and Bloom series when working with soil and Herb Science Acme

was because the microorganism had colonized the entire root mass of the

Series in hydro and am quite satisfied with the results. The one thing I add

grove. The symbiotic relationship between the fungus and the oak roots

to both is Advanced Nutrients’ Tarantula for a thick healthy root mass - it’s

is that the fungus can metabolize more of the available nutrients than the

a bit expensive but totally worth it. I noticed mild changes within three days

roots can, delivering the nutrients in a form that is available to the plant.

of applying it and mind-blowing results by the end of the second week of

These are nutrients that were never available to the plant before the fungus

vegetation. The thing to remember with Tarantula is that it is live bacteria

transformed them.

and peroxide (H2O2) will kill the bacteria, so if you use peroxide in your water

I thought, “where can I buy some”? But it was only about

you’ll have to stop.

ten years ago that I found my first beneficial fungus

Kick Start by GroTek also works very well on seedlings

product. It was “Myke” from Premier Tech. I use it on

and cuttings to develop great roots. Healthy roots

every plant: all of my house plants, all of my crop plants,

lead to a healthy plant, and thus a healthy yield.

anything I ever transplant. I won’t plant without it.

Pro-Mix has a base of mild nutrients in it and will

Advanced Nutrients has two very powerful beneficial

sustain plants for a while on its own, but if you are

fungus and bacteria products, “Piranha” and “Tarantula”,

looking for a good yield you should add some food

along with “Voodoo Juice”.

every second or third watering.

The first time you use any or all of these products you should see a 50-200% increase in root mass.

Take care and be kind to your plants.

Herb Gardner

VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

65

Is proud to present its First Growing Media Lesson Question: Why is Dutch loose fill coir considered better than domestic sold coir, such as “Just Coir®” by Sun Gro Horticulture?

Choose One Answer: 1. Costs more.

2. More expensive.

3. Cool Dutch name – English translation = soaking our naïve customers who don’t know any better.

4. Extra ocean freight from Sri Lanka to Holland and then to North America.

5. ALL OF THE ABOVE. Answer key: Answer is 5.

Sun Gro Horticulture’s “Just Coir” is the top selling bag of loose fill coir in the Western U.S. Why? Because Sun Gro Horticulture’s high quality standards require that every incoming load of coir is tested, flushed for excess salts and then re-tested to ensure that EC’s are low and then packaged in our 2.0 cu. ft bag all the while complying with our OMRI listed standards.

You want more? Sure, since you are not paying for all that freight and the fancy Dutch name, “Just Coir” is more affordable and it is OMRI listed. Our goal is to provide our customers with a great product at a fair price.

Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USA Distributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.

And if you want more, a great new product is our Black Gold Cocoblend® which is an OMRI listed blend of coir fiber, Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, earthworm castings and pumice. It is the fastest growing soil media being sold within the Emerald Triangle in California. It is a fantastic blend that provides optimum water retention plus high aeration capacity with nature’s fertilizer – earthworm castings.

Sun Gro Horticulture providing quality growing media under the Sunshine® and Black Gold® brands since 1929.

Available exclusively at an independent retailer near you.

Call Sun Gro Horticulture CRC 1-877-842-3256 for more information. www.sungro.com

B B ta

"Greatest Tall Tales Ever Told" I am not a crook - Richard Nixon

I did not have sexual relations with that woman, Ms. Lewinsky - Bill Clinton

Read my lips, No new taxes - George Bush

Black Gold® and Sunshine® growing media.

Because the only thing taller than their tales are plants grown in our soil.

?

Our soil is better than

Black Gold

- Frightened competitor

While 'better' is always a subjective term, Black Gold® and Sunshine® brands have been providing quality growing media to the Professional Grower and Garden Enthusiast since 1929. Good honest soil, providing good honest results has always been our way of doing business.

No tall tales, no bogus boasts

1-800-842-3256 www.sungro.com Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USA Distributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.