LIGHTWELL HOTEL
A historic Hood River landmark shines again
CARSON ART GARAGE
Creating community on a quiet corner
GANDER & GOOSE
Foraging for the perfect pour
Maui Meyer principal broker or/wa 541-490-3051 maui@copperwest.com
Melissa Alvarado broker, or 541-980-8977 melissa@copperwest.com
Vicki Brennan broker or 541-399-3678 vicki@copperwest.com
Hunter Lowery broker or/wa 541-490-5917 hunter@copperwest.com
Rita Ketler managing principal broker 541-400-0449 rita@copperwest.com
Sean Aiken principal broker, or/wa 541-490-8277 seanaiken@copperwest.com
Phineas England broker or/wa 541-490-9666 phineas@copperwest.com
Judy Dutcher broker or/wa 541-490-6327 judy@copperwest.com
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Paul Thompson principal broker, or/wa 541-490-1044 paul@copperwest.com
Anne McAllister broker or 541-705-7890 anne@copperwest.com
Cyndee Kurahara broker, or/wa 541-490-1396 cyndee@copperwest.com
Dennis Morgan principal broker or/wa 541-980-3669 dennis@copperwest.com
Candice Richards principal broker or/wa 541-912-5999 candice@copperwest.com
Anne Medenbach commercial broker or/wa 541-645-0646 annem@copperwest.com
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Julie Gilbert pc broker or/wa 541-490-4433 julie@copperwest.com
Sonya Rubio broker, or/wa 509-637-6445 sonya@copperwest.com
Heather Bremer broker or/wa 541-980-5182 heather@copperwest.com
Bill Irving principal broker or/wa 503-816-9251 bill@copperwest.com
Cody Cornett broker, or/wa 219-916-0451 cody@copperwest.com
Erin V Pollard broker or/wa 541-705-7798 erin@copperwest.com
By Don Campbell
Janet Cook
Courtesy of Steve Kowats
Jana
DURING MY FIRST SUMMERS in Hood River in the early 1990s, the River City Saloon was the place to hang out after a day on the water. The most memorable nights were when Moe Dixon played late, and the crowd spilled out the door to dance in the street. Sunburned and windblown, we didn’t pay much attention to the abandoned building above. I didn’t know then that there were once 100 hotel guest rooms up there and a fourth-floor deck, or that in the building’s core was the city’s first elevator.
In the early 2000s, after Bob Carnahan bought the building, he gave me a tour of the abandoned upper floors. They were a mess of peeling wallpaper, broken glass and dingy clawfoot bathtubs. Bob’s dream of restoring the hotel was never realized, but he did get the River City Saloon opened up again after a years-long closure that began in the late ‘90s.
In November, more than 50 years after the building’s upper floors were condemned in 1973, the Lightwell Hotel & Spa opened its doors. A community open house was packed with people excited to see this long-neglected building reborn, and curious about how it all looked after three years of renovation. It did not disappoint. With lots of historic features incorporated into the design, the development team honored the building’s past while creating a modern, tasteful and welcoming space. Kudos to them for breathing new life into this historic landmark, and doing it so beautifully. Our story about the Lightwell starts on page 28.
Another Gorge destination recently resurrected is Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa. The site’s mineral springs have always been a draw, known to Native Americans long before settler Thomas Moffett built a guest lodge there in the late 1800s. Over the next century, lodgings came and went. After a years-long closure of the most recent resort, the property was bought, renovated and opened earlier this year even as upgrades continue. Molly Allen’s story about the resort begins on page 18.
Renewal seems to be a theme in this issue, and you’ll find it in Don Campbell’s story about the Carson Art Garage, a gallery and community gathering space imagined and crafted by metal artist Steve Kowats in a former car dealership (page 46). It’s also in Jana Shepherd’s piece on the new Surf Mill in Bingen, built on the site of a 1920s-era Moose Lodge and serving as the North American hub for water sports company Forward Maui (page 10).
Along with these and other stories, you’ll find our Health + Wellness special advertising section starting on page 38. Whether renewing your commitment to your wellness journey or looking to augment your current routine, check out this resource guide to learn more about a variety of local providers.
We hope you find lots to like in this issue. Have a great winter!
About the Cover
— Janet Cook, Editor
BLAINE FRANGER, a Hood River artist and photographer, collaborated with the team at Lightwell Hotel to capture photography throughout the project — from early on during construction to marketing photos prior to opening and events such as the Community Open House, when he took our cover photo. Blaine’s artwork is featured in the Lightwell Spa, and his photography gallery is located across the street from the Lightwell at 111 2nd Street, Suite 300. BlaineBethanyGallery.com.
When you have read this issue please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. Together we can make a difference in preserving and conserving our resources.
EDITOR
Janet Cook
CREATIVE DIRECTOR & GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Renata Kosina
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Jody Thompson
ADVERTISING SALES
Kim Horton, Chelsea Marr
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Molly Allen, Don Campbell, Kacie McMackin, Jana Shepherd
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER
Blaine Franger at Blaine + Bethany Gallery
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Molly Allen, Blaine Franger, Kacie McMackin, Jana Shepherd
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Michael Peterson
at Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa
Molly Allen
Forward Maui’s North American Hub Takes Root in Bingen
THE SURF MILL TRANSFORMS A HISTORIC BUILDING INTO A LAUNCHPAD FOR WIND SPORTS INNOVATION
CENTRALLY LOCATED between Hood River and White Salmon sits the small town of Bingen. Locals sometimes refer to as “the core of the Gorge.” For decades, the Columbia River Gorge has been a mecca for adventure seekers, especially those drawn to wind sports.
e Gorge attracts visitors from around the world, lured not only by its powerful winds, but its breathtaking landscapes. Today, that spirit of innovation has found a home inside one of Bingen’s most recognizable landmarks, the new Surf Mill.
If you’ve passed through Bingen recently, you’ve surely noticed the Surf Mill. e building’s story stretches back a century. Once home to a 1920s-era Moose Lodge, the nearly
8,000-square-foot building has been transformed into a vibrant operations hub for Forward Maui, an international surf and foil company with roots in Maui, Spain and now the Gorge. At the helm is Francisco Goya, a former world windsur ng champion, who has reimagined the space into a center for creativity, craftsmanship and wind-driven exploration.
story by JANA SHEPHERD • photos by JANA SHEPHERD & ovided
The Surf Mill in Bingen rose on the site of a former Moose Lodge dating to the 1920s.
Andrew Sayre
Forward Maui’s Gorge story began in 2016. e team then operated out of a small barn across the Columbia in Hood River which served as their rst makeshift warehouse. “We were playing a serious game of Tetris trying to store shipments of surfboards,” says Markie Beck, who has been the company’s warehouse manager since early 2023. “ at’s when we knew we needed a much bigger space, and the Surf Mill became that space.”
Today, the Surf Mill serves as Forward Maui’s North American distribution hub, where a crew manages shipping for the entire U.S. dealer network. “If you buy a board from a shop on the East Coast,” Beck notes, “there’s a good chance it shipped from right here in Bingen, Washington.”
e team includes sales manager Tyson Poore, alongside designers and engineers who regularly y in from Maui and Spain to collaborate and test new gear in the Gorge’s legendary wind. Forward Maui’s hydrofoil designer Kane DeWilde is part of this global unit, splitting time between Maui and the Gorge in order to re ne performance gear in di erent conditions.
e remodeled Surf Mill on Bingen’s main drag carries echoes of its past. “We’re not sure how many incarnations this building has had since the 1920s,” Beck says. “But we’re proud to be part of its story now.” During renovations, the crew discovered an old piece of wood tucked inside a wall, likely inscribed by the builder and noting the original construction in October and November of 1926 — a link to the structure’s century-old history.
e project took more than three years, including the herculean task of lifting the entire building to pour a new foundation. “People were so curious about what it would become,” Beck says. “I’ve overheard everything from a potential brewery to a surf convention center and event site. We still have locals stopping by almost daily to peek inside and ask questions.”
Although the Surf Mill isn’t open to the public, its impact is already making waves.
Each month, several 20- to 40-foot shipping containers of gear arrive from overseas factories through the Port of Seattle before making their way to Bingen.
“If you’ve ever tried to get into the Post O ce parking lot and found it blocked o with caution tape,” Beck jokes, “you probably ran into one of our container days.” Housed inside, boards, foils and accessories for Goya Windsur ng, Quattro and KT Sur ng are unloaded, checked and distributed across North America. ese three brands represent decades of innovation across windsur ng, SUP, foiling and surf, rooted in Forward Maui’s
Opposite top, warehouse manager Markie Beck, right, and sales manager Tyson Poore. At right, Francisco Goya cuts the ribbon at the Surf Mill’s grand opening in September.
Tammara Tippel
belief that progression and creativity belong at every level of ability. e Mill continually rolls out new gear each year, with a new line of SUP’s slated to arrive at the end of 2025.
Francisco Goya, alongside his brother Lalo, Jason Di n and board shaper Keith Teboul started as a group of friends windsur ng together in Maui in 1994. e intention was merely to make better gear for themselves. Decades later, the team now encompasses three brands, multiple distribution centers and a global crew. Together they turned their shared experience on the water into a company built on innovation, craftsmanship and connection to the sport. Di n, who designs the company’s sails and wings, works from Hood River, further intertwining Forward Maui with the Gorge wind community.
While most people continue to associate the Gorge’s wind industry with Hood River, Forward Maui’s presence in Bingen broadens the map. “Bingen is so central to everything,” says Beck, citing several renowned wind sports locations nearby. “You’re just minutes from e Hatchery, e Wall, the Lyle Sandbar and Bob’s Beach in Stevenson — it’s the perfect launch point for testing.” Goya and the team’s decision to invest in Bingen was very intentional, she adds.
“ e Gorge is one of those dream locations for wind and water sports,” Beck says. “We could have chosen a much easier location to move into, one that didn’t involve years of construction, but we chose Bingen. Francisco really saw the vision and potential here. It wasn’t just about building a warehouse; it was about restoring something meaningful for the town of Bingen.”
Today, the Surf Mill stands as a symbolic bridge connecting Maui’s surf culture, Spain’s design innovation, and the elemental energy of the Columbia River Gorge. ough public events or tours aren’t o cially planned for the Surf Mill — the focus for now remains on warehousing and distribution — its impact is visible in the constant rhythm of freight trucks, the glimmer of new boards bound for the coasts, and the quiet pride of a small town playing a big part in the global wind sports story.
Jana Shepherd is a writer living in White Salmon. She’s a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.
The spacious building serves as the North American distribution hub for Goya Windurfing, Quattro and KT Surfing.
More than a Swim Team
COLUMBIA GORGE MASTERS SWIMMERS THRIVE ON CAMARADERIE AND COACHING
ONE NIGHT IN DECEMBER 2023, CARL BLAKESLEE of Hood River awoke with an uncomfortable feeling in his chest. A lifelong athlete who grew up ski racing and has spent his adulthood pursuing typical Gorge sports — including windsurfing, kiting, wing foiling and mountain biking — Blakeslee at first didn’t think much of it. He got out of bed and did some stretching and yoga, attributing it to muscle pain. But after a couple of hours, he wasn’t so sure and decided to go to the hospital to get checked out.
Seventy-two hours later, Blakeslee, at 60, underwent open-heart surgery to fix “extensive blockages” in four arteries, including the one commonly referred to as the widow maker.
Six months after that, he joined the Columbia Gorge Masters swim team.
“After my surgery, I was looking for a low-impact cardio exercise,” Blakeslee said. “As soon as I was cleared by my cardiologist, I literally jumped right into the pool.” He started swimming with the team every weekday morning from 6 to 7:30 a.m., five days a week. “I fell in love with it,” he said.
Blakeslee is one of about 60 masters swimmers on the team, ranging in age from early twenties to mid-eighties. The club includes people from all walks of life and varying swimming backgrounds. Some were competitive swimmers in high school or college; others had barely spent time in a pool before they joined.
When they show up at the Hood River Aquatic Center at 6 a.m., none of it matters. They all spend the next hour and a half gliding back and forth in a lane, often doubled or tripled up with fellow swimmers, following the workout that their coach, Shelly Rawding, has drawn up for them that day.
story & photos by JANET COOK
The Columbia Gorge Masters got its start nearly 24 years ago after a chance meeting on a Gorge trail. Team founder Sandi Rousseau was on a hike when she encountered Rawding on the same trail. The two struck up a conversation, and Rousseau learned that Rawding was a swim coach.
Rousseau had recently moved to the Gorge from Tualatin, where
she’d started a masters swim group years before. “I told Shelly that I’d like to swim with a masters club here,” Rousseau recalled. Rawding told her there wasn’t a masters team, but invited her to come to the pool a couple of days a week while she coached kids, and Rousseau could share a lane with a few other adults who swam then.
“I started coming to that, and it just kind of went from there,” said Rosseau, who learned to swim as a kid growing up in Indiana and never lost her love for the sport. Word spread, and within a few years the Columbia Gorge Masters grew from a handful of swimmers to dozens training up to five days a week.
As she was helping to get the fledgling masters team started, Rawding was also the head coach of the year-round Hood River Valley Swim Team — a position she still holds.
“I’m here at the pool Monday through Friday from 6 to 7:30 in the morning and again from 3 to 5:30 in the afternoon,” said Rawding. “You know where to find me.” She also coached the Hood River Valley High School swim team for seven years, but stepped away from that this year.
Having a masters swim coach and formal workouts each day is vital, said Rousseau. “If you have a coach on deck, people will come,” she said. “If someone is orchestrating the workout, that makes a lot of difference.”
Most days, about 25 swimmers arrive at the pool at 6 a.m. for the day’s workout. “Some people come close to every day, some
Carl Blakeslee, opposite top, swims with the Columbia Gorge Masters almost every day, and has recently begun competing. Swimmers check the day’s workout, opposite bottom. The team has about 60 members ranging in age from mid-twenties to mid-eighties.
come two or three days a week,” Rawding said. “It depends on people’s schedules.” Swimmers come from Hood River and White Salmon, and as far away as Trout Lake. Most days, everyone does the same workout, but sometimes Rawding puts together a sprint and a distance workout and swimmers can pick one or the other.
On a recent morning at the pool, there was some spirited discussion of the superiority of the “social lanes” versus the serious ones. Beyond a good morning workout, lighthearted fun and social interaction are central to the Columbia Gorge Masters — as is creating a welcoming environment.
Kerry Hanline joined the team in August with very little swimming experience. “I wanted something to do for longevity and injuryprevention,” she said, adding that she was nervous at first. “I was learning something new, and didn’t know how I was going to be received. I just wanted to stay out of everyone’s way, but it was such a welcoming group of people. I came to swim, and I got a community out of it.”
She’s been pleased with the progress she’s made since joining. “Any bit of advice the seasoned swimmers or the coaches give, if you work on it, it changes your stroke and in a few weeks, you’re better,” she said.
Along with Rawding, assistant coaches MJ Caswell and Keith Ebbert are also on hand many days. On Tuesdays, Ebbert uses an underwater camera connected to an iPad to work with swimmers on their stroke.
Many of the team members swim primarily for fitness. Others are triathletes working to improve their technique. A few are interested in competing in masters swimming events.
Blakeslee is one of them. Within less than a year of joining the team, he entered his first competition, in April 2025. “I learned how much more work I needed to do,” he said. “Masters competition is no joke.”
The experience made him crave more, and he competed in the U.S. Masters Swimming National Championships in Seattle in August. Now, he’s hooked. “My goal is to achieve a national record in my age class,” he said. “Not sure when, what swim or what age group that will be, but it’s achievable so I’m putting it out there!”
Blakeslee steps into the role of board president of Columbia Gorge Masters in January. “This year we saw a pretty dramatic increase in the number of new swimmers joining the team,” he said. “Our hope is that word is spreading through the community that what we have here is really special.”
Blakeslee’s open-heart surgery two years ago feels like a distant memory, although he’s reminded of it each time he looks in the mirror and sees the scar. But the experience helped “push me into the pool,” he said.
“The great group of people,” he added, “was an unexpected treasure that I’m truly grateful to be part of.”
To learn more, go to hoodriverparksandrec.org.
Assistant coach Keith Ebbert works with swimmers on their stroke using an underwater camera and an iPad, left. Above, veteran coach Shelly Rawding gives technique tips.
FIND JOY IN THE journey
Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa
A HISTORIC RETREAT , LONG DORMANT, RISES AGAIN WITH A FOCUS ON RELAXATION
A HISTORIC SITE has reopened in the Gorge, and is welcoming travelers and community members alike to take a dip. Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa opened its doors in February 2025 after an extended closure.
“A group of investors purchased the property in fall 2024 and worked on resetting it back to its resort style,” said Katie Thompson, general manager. The resort is owned by Fusion Lodging, which also operates about a dozen lodgings on the Oregon Coast. “We want to invite travelers and the local community to enjoy the space. The goal is to be a place that offers wellness, relaxation and the opportunity to get back to nature.”
Native American tribes had long known about the mineral hot springs on the site by the time Thomas Moffett built a lodge there in the late 1800s and named it Moffett’s Hot Springs. The lodge operated as Cascade Hotel for years before being destroyed by fire in the 1930s. It was rebuilt as Bilba Hot Springs, featuring cabins and a 38-acre campground that welcomed visitors for more than 40 years. By the 1970s, it had fallen into disrepair and in the 1980s, it was purchased and transformed into Bonneville Hot Springs, establishing the grounds that look very similar to how they appear today.
The main building featured a towering fireplace in the lobby constructed from local stone, with a large pool room offering respite to those hoping to soak in the mineral waters. The popular resort operated throughout the early 2000s, then was sold to a private rehabilitation facility operator in 2016 whose intention was to open a high-end rehabilitation center there the next year. But it never happened. Many renovations were made to the building, but it sat unoccupied for years.
story & photos by MOLLY ALLEN
Now, the resort has been brought back to life, blending history and tradition with a sense of rejuvenation.
e resort includes amenities such as on-site dining, a newly renovated bar, a co ee shop with espresso and pastries, and a spacious lobby with seating next to the original double-sided replace. A variety of accommodations are available, including both king and double-queen options, and one- or two-bedroom suites as well as pet-friendly rooms. Of those, many rooms include access to a balcony with a private hot tub lled with mineral water — the same water that serves as the highlight of the property, lling multiple pools in the soaking and spa area.
Mineral Pool
“ e spa is newly remodeled, including the bath and wrap area and area for facials and massages,” ompson said. e spa area includes individual tubs allowing for private soaking. e public pool room is the gem of the property, with its preserved original cedar
The main pool room at Bonneville Hot Springs features a warm lap pool, opposite top, a hot tub, above, and a kids’ wading pool, below. The towering fireplace in the resort’s lobby was built in the 1980s from local stone, opposite bottom.
construction and oor-to-ceiling windows that allow light ltering through the surrounding trees to shine in. at large, wood-paneled space creates a calming environment, with a warm lap pool in the main
pool room, a cooler kids’ wading pool, an indoor hot tub, sauna and cold plunge.
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Adult-only swim hours are from 8 to 10 p.m. Make your way outside just o the main pool room into the courtyard, where you can soak in a stone hot tub and make use of an outdoor cold plunge tub. “ e pool room was preserved, and all the original pools are still there and up and running with mineral hot springs water,” ompson said.
e water to ll all of these pools, along with balcony-room hot tubs and water fountains, is sourced from multiple areas around the property. Pump houses bring the natural hot springs water to the resort building. e water is enriched with sulfates, calcium, carbonate, silica, sodium, magnesium, iron and potassium, all of which are known to have bene cial properties.
Overnight guests are welcome to utilize any of the pools and tubs throughout the day, while day visitors can book hourly passes in either one-hour or two-hour increments.
While the mineral waters are the key draw for Bonneville Hot Springs Resort, ompson says there are plans for additional amenities in the works. “We have a mini putt-putt golf course and just introduced e-bike rentals, and we have a vision for expanding,” she said.
A house on the property is going to be renovated and transformed into a hostel, with bunks and common areas, making an excellent stop for Paci c Crest Trail hikers. ere are plans for glamping pods to provide more secluded lodging, along with a large greenhouse and tranquil butter y garden. Weddings are being hosted on-site currently, with the goal of expanding ceremony and reception location options.
With the re-opening of the resort also came restored access to a few popular Gorge trails. One connects to the Paci c Crest Trail, or you can take on the challenge of Heartbreak Ridge Trail on Table Mountain. According to ompson, another favorite trail is a bit atter, meandering where an old train track used to be. Access to these trails is open to anyone, whether staying on-site or not, but there is a charge for parking in this speci c area of the resort.
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“Everyone is excited to be a part of this and its potential and what’s being o ered so far,” ompson said. “We’re making it ours while still honoring the past. We want to invite travelers and the local community to enjoy the space.”
To learn more, go to bonnevilleresorts.com
Molly Allen is a food, beverage and travel writer based in Hood River. She’s a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.
A sauna and an outdoor hot tub with a cold plunge, located in a courtyard just outside the main pool room, round out the public pool spaces at the resort.
Gander & Goose
A BAR WHERE BOTANICALS, COMMUNITY AND CREATIVITY MEET
SITUATED ON HISTORIC
JEWETT
BOULEVARD IN WHITE SALMON, Gander & Goose is a botanically inspired cocktail bar bringing the flavors of the Columbia River Gorge to life. Since opening in October 2023, owner and veteran bartender Sam Schauer, along with his team, have been crafting cocktails that highlight the diverse flora of our region. Guests can also explore curated amaro flights — a nod to Schauer’s deep passion for complex, herbal spirits.
Beyond cocktails, Gander & Goose offers thoughtfully sourced food options that showcase local ingredients and pair beautifully with the stunning setting. The bar often features fresh oysters alongside inventive small bites and drink specials, and it’s fast become a go-to gathering spot to unwind.
The vibe inside Gander & Goose is equal parts glamorous and inviting. Showcasing rich, forest-green leather seating, deep red velvet curtains, and a custom black walnut bar top crafted from a tree harvested on Eugene Street in Hood River, this dramatic backdrop, with vintage booths, Douglas Fir shelves, and hand-hung wallpaper, adds layers of character,
thanks to the craftsmanship of Schauer’s close friends. With low, moody lighting and a steady buzz of locals and visitors, the space feels like it’s been a fixture for decades.
For Schauer, Gander & Goose is not just a bar, it’s a family project. His mother played a pivotal role in making the dream possible. “I couldn’t have done this without her energy and support,” he said. Proceeds from the sale of her home helped fund the start-up, and she continues to leave her mark. From the hand-sewn velvet curtains to future planned contributions that bring warmth and personal history into the space, she is an integral part of the business.
Others in the community also played a role in the bar’s genesis. Schauer recalls sitting at Soča, White Salmon’s local wine shop, with owner and friend Bethany Kimmel and his pal Jerica Beckman. “Soča became the creative hub for the whole project — the place that inspired me to take the leap,” he said. “Bethany not only helped name the bar, but was also a steady sounding board through the entire process.”
Jotting down names and bouncing ideas off his friends for feedback, he told himself that one thing he would never do was follow the cliché naming convention of “Something & Something”— think Salt & Straw or Grain & Gristle — which is exactly when “Goose & Gander” popped into his head. Despite his initial misgivings,
story & photos by JANA SHEPHERD
Schauer wrote it down and ran it by Kimmel, who felt that “Gander & Goose” had a better ring to it. After re ning the vision and aesthetic a bit more, it was clear that Gander & Goose was the winner.
Schauer’s fascination with plants began long ago with yarrow, an aromatic owering herb traditionally used for wound healing, reducing in ammation and digestive issues. But it wasn’t until the pandemic took hold that his passion truly came alive.
“All that free time meant actual free time,” he explained. “I could nally stop just reading and start foraging — going into the woods, making things, tasting things. It was the moment when book knowledge became hands-on practice.”
at spirit of curiosity and creativity now infuses every cocktail at Gander & Goose.
If one ingredient de nes Schauer’s artistry, it’s amaro. “Amaro means ‘bitter’ in Italian,” he said. “It’s an herbal liqueur made by macerating botanicals — roots, herbs, spices — in spirit, wine or brandy, then sweetened and aged.”
For Schauer, amaro is both history and innovation. “It’s herbalism turned into pleasure,” he said. “We focus on creative, original cocktails here. Amaro adds complexity, uniqueness and this little spark of creativity in a bottle.”
Looking ahead, Schauer sees Gander & Goose as a cornerstone for collaboration. “In the long term, I’d love for Gander & Goose
Sam Schauer, opposite bottom, crafts botanically-infused cocktails at his White Salmon bar Gander & Goose. Opposite top is the Saturn, a seasonal summer cocktail.
to keep supporting others here in the Gorge,” he said. “We’ve got opportunities in this region to collaborate in ways that aren’t possible in bigger cities. I’m proud to be a part of that.”
Kicking off in December, Gander & Goose will once again host cocktail classes. Each two-hour session highlights a single spirit, to include whiskey, agave, amaro or gin, while guests craft and taste three half-size cocktails.
“What separates a good cocktail from a great one is technique,” Schauer says. “That’s what I want to share. You’ll taste, learn and hopefully go home with new knowledge — and maybe some new friends, too.”
The menu at Gander & Goose features crisped rice waffles, left. One of Sam Schauer’s specialties is an herbal liqueur called amaro, made by macerating roots, herbs and spices in spirit, wine or brandy; he calls it “creativity in a bottle.”
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Even the food program at Gander & Goose has a story. Originally designed with a collaborator, the menu had to be reimagined in just six days to meet liquor licensing requirements. e solution? Rice wa es.
Inspired by a viral TikTok video and a closed Japanese restaurant, Schauer built a fully gluten-free menu around crisped rice wa es by “happy accident.” Aside from its savory wa es, the menu includes a handful of starters that rotate, depending on the season.
“Gander is cozy, safe, beautiful and aesthetically pleasing,” Schauer said. “We focus on creative, original cocktails — but if you want a perfect martini or daiquiri, we’ve got you covered too.”
For Schauer, cocktails are inseparable from creativity. A lifelong musician and songwriter, he sees drinks, food and foraging through the same lens — discipline, artistry and respect for nature. His harvests from the Gorge often inspire dishes and drinks at Gander, tying the space back to the land and the community it serves.
At Gander & Goose, every pour is more than just a drink. It’s an experience and a taste of the Gorge and the community it celebrates. To learn more, go to ganderandgoose.bar
Jana Shepherd is a writer living in White Salmon. She’s a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.
Experience Skamania County, Washington!
BRIDGESIDE
Fast, friendly family dining for breakfast and lunch, plus spectacular views of the Gorge and Bridge of the Gods.
Burgers • Sandwiches • Salads • Soups
Baskets • Specials • Desserts Gi Shop • Historic Artifacts
541-374-8477 • bridgesidedining.com
745 NW Wa Na Pa St. • Cascade Locks
STROIKA STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING
Your structural experts for e Gorge! From new construction to remodels, we do it all. Contact us today for drawings to be used for permitting and construction!
541-716-1381 • stroikaengineering.com
390 Evergreen Dr., Ste C-5 • N. Bonneville
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Stunning views, spacious guestrooms on the Columbia River at the Bridge of the Gods. Close to waterfalls and outdoor activities. Complimentary hot breakfast, pool, spa, tness room.
541-374-8777 • 800-595-7108
bwcolumbiariverinn.com
735 WaNaPa St. • Cascade Locks
COLUMBIA GORGE MUSEUM
Embark on a journey from the Gorge’s rich past to its vibrant present. Logging, culture, art, and people—explore the stories that shape the Gorge.
columbiagorgemuseum.org
509-427-8211
990 SW Rock Creek Dr. • Stevenson
SKAMANIA LODGE
Your base camp for adventure: zip lines, aerial park, axe throwing, Gorge 9 Golf Course, Little Eagle 18 Putting Course, and disc golf. Take a dip in the pool, soak in the hot tub, and unwind with a rejuvenating massage.
844-432-4748 • skamania.com 1131 SW Skamania Lodge Way Stevenson
CEDAR DESIGNS
Custom Home Kits: Conventional, Post & Beam, Timber or Log hybrids. Over 600+ plans and designs on website. Free dra ing and no charge for modi cations or custom plans. Panelized exterior walls. Price guarantees. Model home by appointment. 800-728-4474 • cedardesigns.com info@cedardesigns.com • Carson
BRINGING BACK
A Hood River landmark shines once again as the Lightwell Hotel & Spa
THE LIGHT
HISTORICAL PHOTO courtesy of History Museum of Hood River County
STORY by Janet Cook PHOTOS by Blaine Franger at Blaine + Bethany Gallery
If walls could talk, those inside the Lightwell Hotel would have stories to tell. Newly opened at Hood River’s doorstep, the Lightwell is a reincarnation of sorts of the original hotel built at the corner of Second and Cascade streets in 1904. Known rst as the Waucoma Hotel, later as Hotel Oregon, and for a time as the Hotel Waukoma (yes, with a “k”), it was one of the rst brick buildings in town — and only the second hotel.
When the upper oors of the building were closed and condemned in 1973, those walls had stood for six decades — through two world wars, the Great Depression, the advent of car travel and the construction of the Columbia River Highway, the damming of the Columbia and the Flood of 1948.
ey stood, accommodating visitors in trickles and waves, as Hood River grew from a town of 760 in 1900 to more than 4,000 in 1973.
If walls could talk.
Carrington
“Ceb” Barrs has had his hands on every one of those walls over the past three years. Some were removed and replaced, the oors shored up and leveled, the basement dug out and enlarged. Barrs, a member of the development team that turned the historic building into the Lightwell Hotel, was in charge of construction. From structural and design challenges to the unwelcome surprises that invariably arise, the project took engineering, construction and craftsmanship savvy, dogged perseverance — and often think-outside-the-box solutions. But day in and day out, Barrs never lost sight of the building’s past.
“I feel like we’re more stewards of this building,” he said. “It has a lot of history, and it means a lot to so many people in town.” After the upper oors closed in the 1970s, the ground oor remained
The Hotel Oregon, circa 1910, and the new Rooftop Bar at the Lightwell Hotel.
Blaine Franger/BlaineBethanyGallery.com
BRINGING BACK THE LIGHT
home to a bar known as the Wauna Room. In the early 1980s, the bar’s name was changed to the River City Saloon, and it became a rowdy gathering place for the rst wave of windsurfers in town. It closed in the late ‘90s when the building was put up for sale.
Bob Carnahan bought the building in 2000 with a vision for restoring the hotel. As a rst act, he re-opened the River City Saloon in 2001. He also rejuvenated the other ground-
Gabe Genauer, Ceb Barrs and Lach Litwer cut the ribbon at the Lightwell Hotel’s uno icial opening in October, a community open house that drew hundreds.
oor space, eventually leasing it to Naked Winery. But his dreams for the condemned oors above never materialized. During the last few years he owned it, Carnahan tended to 76 buckets situated throughout the upper oors to catch seasonal rain that dripped steadily through the leaky roof. is was the state of the building when Barrs came for his second look in 2021. He and some development partners had toured it a few years earlier, but ultimately set their sights on the old Bingen schoolhouse which they transformed into the Society Hotel.
In 2021, with that project behind him, Barrs and his longtime business partner Gabe Genauer were looking for one last big project. It so happened that local workforce housing developer Lach Litwer had the building under contract to repurpose as apartments. He was having trouble making it pencil out and asked Barrs for advice.
Stay Winter Ready
Litwer’s project didn’t pencil out, but the three of them teamed up. “It turned out that the three of us together was the magic sauce that made this happen,” Barrs said. ey later added VIP Hospitality as a fourth partner managing operations. To make it work, they “cut out every layer of fat and mark-up,” said Barrs. “We were the developer, the contractor, and for the most part the designer.” As for construction, Barrs and his crew “took on so many things that normally you would just sub out and pay the mark-up.” It took longer, but doing it that way made it nancially feasible.
From early demolition work to the nishing touches, Barrs drew on his 30 years in commercial and residential construction. “It was like my daily 3D puzzle,” he said. “Every day I’d think about it on my way to work — okay, what are we going to get into today, what do I have to gure out? It was super fun.” e rst task was digging out more space in the basement and shoring up the building, which was collapsing from the inside. e original basement comprised about 2,500 square feet of dank, low-ceilinged storage space. “Bob had told us it was ‘solid basalt’ and would be impossible to dig out,” Barrs said. It turned out that what lay beneath
Blaine Franger/BlaineBethanyGallery.com, here and opposite
the building is what’s under most of Hood River’s downtown infrastructure: river bottom dating to the Missoula Floods and their aftermath. “Sand, gravel and boulders — some of them the size of cars, some of them the size of pool balls — were packed so tight it was like concrete,” he said.
Barrs’s crew cut a hole in the sidewalk, above what was once a tunnel of unknown origin, and lowered a mini excavator below ground. “Then we just started digging,” he said. A half-dozen guys on his crew spent four months with the excavator, drills, pickaxes and shovels. “It was old-school,” he said. Barrs set up a system of conveyor belts to transport dirt, rocks and debris out a basement window and into a dumpster. By the end of it, they’d more than doubled the space and dug down far enough to create eight-foot ceilings.
Next came structural work, replacing rotting joists, and columns and footings that were failing. Barrs brought out house-moving companies from Portland to look at jacking up the building. The quotes he got were exorbitant, so he decided they could do it themselves. He rented six 30-ton house jacks, and for a time, the five-story building was jacked up and supported on temporary walls as new footings were poured.
“The engineer tells you what it needs to look like when you’re done, but I had to figure out how to get there,” Barrs said. “None of it was out of my wheelhouse. But it was all the things I’ve learned in a 30-year career — in one project.” Barrs credits “a fantastic crew of people” who worked on the project, which at times numbered more than two dozen.
Photo by Darlisa Black
Explore More... on the northshore of the Columbia River Gorge in sunny Klickitat County
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BELL DESIGN C o.
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MARYHILL WINERY
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Once the building was structurally sound, attention turned to the main oor, with a lobby, bar, restaurant and co ee shop, and the oors above with a total of 69 rooms. e original 1904 Waucoma Hotel was three stories tall. When it changed hands a few years later and became the Hotel Oregon, a fourth story was added, as well as an expansion to the south. Between the original building and the new addition, a light well was created so that interior rooms could get daylight and fresh air. e light well was open to the sky from the bottom of the second oor up.
e developers knew they wanted to keep the light well, so one of the rst things Barrs did was to build a skylight for it at roof level — so that light could come in but not the weather. e original ceiling on the ground oor remained through the early phases of construction, so that the light well was visible only from interior rooms on the upper oors. During that time, the partners struggled to come up with a name for the hotel. en one day, Barrs and his crew pulled o the plywood that covered the original base of the light well.
“All of these light rays came down into what used to be the dance oor of the River City,” Barrs recalled. “Anyone who’d ever been in there knew it was like a cave, even during the daytime. Suddenly, all this light came in.” As he looked up into the light well, he called Genauer and then conferenced in Litwer. “I said, ‘Guys, the building just named itself. It’s the Lightwell.’”
Another prominent feature of the Hotel Oregon was the fourth- oor terrace — commonly referred to as the “roof garden” — with its wood trellis. In order to maintain the building’s status on the National Register of Historic Places, the trellis needed to be rebuilt to match the original. Barrs studied old photographs from the Historic Hood River archive at the History Museum of Hood River County. “Some had negatives, so we could zoom in and measure the scale and dimensions,” Barrs said.
e columns and beams were custom built in a shop, with mortis and tenon joints,
The Rooftop Bar o ers expansive views of the Gorge, left. It sits on the footprint of the original fourth-floor terrace, added when the building became the Hotel Oregon around 1910. The wood trellis was built to match the original, re-created using historic photographs. At right, the light well opens above the main-floor restaurant.
Janet Cook
Blaine Franger/BlaineBethanyGallery.com
then hoisted from the street by crane and assembled. “We built it to the fraction of an inch of what it was in 1911,” he said. e rooftop bar is equipped with overhead glass, screens and heaters so the space can be used year-round.
e 69 rooms on the upper three oors are all unique, with many featuring the original exposed brick walls. Local art can be found throughout the hotel, including paintings by Michelle Yamamoto and Sally Bailey, and photos by Blaine Franger. Acoustic panels in the restaurant, designed to absorb noise, are made of indigo-dyed wool by Trout Lake artist Julie Beeler. In the basement, where a spa with a hot tub, sauna and massage rooms occupies space once packed with boulders and river bottom, bathrooms feature custom
paint jobs by local artists.
“ e more people that we could have be a part of this building, who could feel a sense of ownership — that’s what we wanted,” Barrs said. “So many people have put themselves or their craft into this place. at means a lot to me.”
e Mediterranean-style restaurant on the main oor, called Alia, will open later
BRINGING BACK THE LIGHT
this winter, with seating for just under 100 guests. For now, the Lobby Bar — nicknamed e Bob in tribute to Bob Carnahan — serves food and is open to the public, as is the Basecamp Café serving co ee and light snacks.
Wander around the hotel’s main oor and you can see the melding of old and new that de nes the Lightwell. e chandelier over the lobby desk is the lid from the original elevator (which happened to be the very rst elevator installed in Hood River County). e frames on historic photos across from the new elevators are made from old door jambs. Re nished ooring in the restaurant is original
from the 1904 Waucoma Hotel; if you were ever in the River City Saloon, you walked on those same oors.
If Barrs gets his wish, lots of people will walk on those oors once again — not only hotel guests but Gorge locals, too. “We want this to be the living room of Hood River,” he said.
Meanwhile, the walls of the Lightwell Hotel are set to witness new generations of life and the inevitable change that comes with it. anks to Barrs and his team, there’s a lot of history in this storied building coming along for the ride.
To learn more, go to lightwellhotel.com.
The Lobby Bar, nicknamed The Bob in honor of former building owner Bob Carnahan, o ers a bar menu and plenty of seating. Alia, the hotel’s main restaurant with seating for just under 100 guests, will open this winter.
Courtesy of Lightwell Hotel
Blaine Franger/BlaineBethanyGallery.com
Health & Wellness
RESOURCE GUIDE TO THE GORGE
Living an active, healthy lifestyle comes naturally in the Columbia River Gorge. In fact, it’s the reason why many people gravitate here to begin with. We’re surrounded by breathtaking landscapes and seemingly endless opportunities for outdoor recreation and exercise, from heart-pumping adrenaline sports to family-friendly activities. Studies have shown that simply living amid green spaces lowers the risk of depression and anxiety, and we’ve got plenty of that all around us. Another important part of maintaining optimal health is taking care of your healthcare needs. That, too, is easy to do thanks to top-notch healthcare providers in every field. From preventive and specialty care to emergency services, you can find solutions to all of your healthcare needs right here in the Gorge. May you and your loved ones have a healthy, happy and vibrant new year!
EXPERIENCE NEXT-LEVEL SPORTS MEDICINE A MESSAGE FROM RYAN PETERING, M.D.
Dr. Petering o ers comprehensive advanced sports medicine, including ultrasound-guided procedures and PRP (platelet-rich plasma) therapy. “Sports medicine isn’t just for athletes,” he says. “It’s for anyone who wants to move without pain and get back to what they love.”
HELPING THE GORGE STAY ACTIVE AND HEALTHY
I’m excited to join SKYLINE HEALTH MEDICAL CLINIC and the Columbia River Gorge community as a Primary Care Sports Medicine physician. For me, medicine isn’t just about treating symptoms—it’s about building real connections, listening, and working alongside patients to help them live their healthiest, most active lives.
At Skyline, our Sports Medicine services will meet patients where they need help. Whether you have an injury preventing participation in exercise, a chronic joint condition, or want to discuss non-surgical ways to manage your condition— I am here to help. I have spent the last twenty years at Oregon Health & Science University and have worked with Olympic athletes, multiple Nike running teams, University of Oregon Track and Field, and non-athletes who are looking to get back to activities and move past pain conditions. My experiences shape the way I care for patients right here in the Gorge—with the same tools, expertise, and dedication I’ve given to athletes at every level. Now, I bring that same expertise to care for people of all ages and activity levels—whether you’re competing, working, or just staying active for fun.
A unique line of service we will be o ering are diagnosis and treatment with musculoskeletal ultrasound. is is an area of focus of mine—and I am involved nationally in teaching ultrasound to other medical providers. e technology is used in clinic to make real-time diagnosis as well as for ultrasound guided injections— including platelet-rich plasma and other injection techniques.
Why Sports Medicine Matters
Sports medicine isn’t just for athletes. It’s for anyone who wants to stay active and live without pain. From weekend hikers and gardeners to busy parents and retirees, musculoskeletal health a ects
nearly every part of daily life. When movement becomes di cult, it impacts your body, con dence, independence, and emotional well-being. Sports medicine helps prevent injuries, speeds up recovery, and provides solutions that keep you doing what you love—for the long term.
Family Medicine also remains part of my practice—supporting everyday health needs like chronic condition management and preventive care. But what excites me most is the ability to blend these skills so patients receive care that’s both comprehensive and movement-focused.
My goal is simple: to help you thrive—whether that means walking pain-free, staying strong and active, or bouncing back after an injury.
I’m grateful to call the Gorge home now and to be part of Skyline Health, where high-quality care and strong community connections go hand in hand.
Ryan Petering, M.D.
Sports & Family Medicine Physician
Skyline Health Medical Clinic
Dr. Petering is accepting new patients. For more information or to schedule an appointment, call 509-637-2810 or visit myskylinehealth.org.
Dr. Brennan earned her M.D. with honors from the University of Michigan Medical School before completing residency training in Otolaryngology – Head and Neck Surgery at Vanderbilt University Medical Center. Afterwards, she completed a fellowship in Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery at Northwestern University in Chicago. is advanced training allowed her to re ne her skills in both reconstructive and cosmetic procedures under global leaders in the eld.
She brings expertise in broad spectrum ENT and subspecialty facial plastic surgery. She is particularly excited to join the Columbia River Gorge medical community in providing residents improved access to specialized care here locally.
In addition to general ENT, speci c areas of interest include:
• Advanced skin cancer reconstruction techniques
• Inspire surgery for sleep apnea
• Rhinoplasty and other functional breathing surgeries
• Cosmetic and aging face surgeries
• In-o ce procedures including injectables and resurfacing
Outside of the o ce, she can be found exploring the local all-season fun–be it hiking, biking, or cross-country/downhill–with her husband, Patrick, and their Australian Shephard, Goose.
RESTORE
RECOVER
Jessica Sanderson PA-C, Aaron Loyd MD, Luke Sloan MD, Melissa Arndt PA-C, Victoria Hopkins PA-C, Melinda Riter MD PhD
HEALTHY CONNECTIONS
What if your doctor’s o ce:
• Took time to listen to your whole health story?
• Focused on getting to the root-cause of your issues?
• Was available on your schedule?
At Healthy Connections, building real relationships with our patients is at the heart of everything we do. at’s why we’ve expanded our team — adding Amber Cardinalli, DO to join Je Horacek, MD and Laura Whiting, PA-C — giving you three dedicated providers who take the time to listen, help, and o er quicker access to appointments, and more time with your provider.
Our personalized, functional medicine approach focuses on uncovering the root causes of imbalance, helping you create lasting habits for optimal health and longevity. With over 40 years of combined experience, our team partners with you to restore and promote wellness through thoughtful, individualized care.
Our approach is built on:
• Belief in your body’s innate ability to heal.
• A holistic view of mind, body, and spirit.
• A commitment to personalized, non-toxic therapies.
• Collaborative partnerships that put you at the center of your health journey.
• Medical practice guided by core values of connection, curiosity and compassion.
We operate through a Hybrid Insurance + Membership Model, working with most major insurance providers while o ering the exibility and support of our membership care. We also o er Cash Memberships when needed.
Je Horacek, MD
Heather Nielsen Clinic Director
Laura Whiting, PA-C
Amber Cardinalli - DO
Knowing you means helping you reach everything you were made for
Your well-being is our highest priority. The more we get to know you, your health concerns, and your goals, the more we can provide the right expertise to help you along the way. Whether it’s getting you the right referrals to our wide range of specialists, or offering support along the way, we’re here with everything you need to reach everything you were made for.
Learn
With over 18 years in practice, Danielle Melanson brings deep experience, compassion, and curiosity to every patient she works with. A progressive acupuncturist and herbalist, she is committed to treating the whole person—recognizing that each individual is constitutionally unique and that healing must be personalized, not standardized.
At the heart of Danielle’s practice is her rare ability to truly listen. She creates space to hear the full scope of her patients’ stories— physical symptoms, emotional patterns, life stressors, and history— because she believes real healing begins with being seen and understood. Her patients often describe her as a “health detective,” someone who follows subtle clues that others might overlook to uncover the deeper root of imbalance.
When answers aren’t immediately clear, Danielle continues digging. She researches thoroughly, explores all possibilities, and reaches out to a trusted network of colleagues in the natural medicine and western medical worlds. Her commitment to ongoing learning and collaboration re ects her belief that healing is rarely linear—and that two heads are often better than one.
Danielle’s approach blends the ancient wisdom of Chinese medicine with a modern mindset rooted in inquiry, integration, and care. rough her practice, Heart in Hand Acupuncture, she o ers not just treatment—but partnership. Danielle meets each patient with reverence knowing every body holds their wisdom to heal.
hello to Dr. Joanne Smith—now seeing kids in White Salmon & Stevenson!
(509) 427-4212
Scan below to learn more
FIND CALM & RELIEF WITH MASSAGE
For over 10 years, we have proudly served the hardworking people of the Columbia River Gorge. Our dedicated team focuses on helping you heal, move better, and restore your body.
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We also bill Motor Vehicle Accident claims to ensure you get the care you need after an injury.
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Our highly skilled massage therapists o er a wide range of treatments to target pain, stress, and chronic issues:
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We o er professional skincare services to promote balance and radiance:
PERSONALIZED FACIALS • CHEMICAL PEELS • TEEN FACIALS
story by DON CAMPBELL
Crafting Community in Carson
STEVE KOWATS HAS TRANSFORMED A QUIET ROADSIDE CORNER INTO A HUB OF CREATIVITY
ART IS ALL THINGS.
It is kinetic, pensive, joyous, reverent and irreverent. It is melancholic, inquisitive and both urgent and serene. In sum, it is the expressive capture of the human spirit.
In a truly serendipitous Gorge sweet spot — at the con uence of hot springs and resorts, outdoor recreation, golf, wine, exquisite pizza and handcrafted beer — sits emergingly vibrant Carson, Washington. It is here that former shipyard and railroad metal fabricator and instructor Steve Kowats chose, after retiring from a 45-year career, to devote himself to art — his own and some 30 other Gorge artists spanning from Camas to Goldendale. e former Portlander relocated to the Gorge 15 years ago, landing in Hood River. In a search to nd his own creative space, a realtor showed him an uncommon corner location — whimsically at belly-of-the-universe four-way stop in this close-knit community, population 2,553, where Wind River Road, Hot Springs Avenue and Glur Road meet. In a former life, it was an auto dealership and gas station dating to the 1930s.
It wasn’t his initial intent to create the Carson Art Garage and subsequently the Two Fish Wine Bar, but that’s how his mind works. “I bought the building next door to suit my own needs, that being working on my own art,” says Kowats, who creates repurposed metal sculpture. After buying the whole building, he re nished it, rented the corner o ce to NW Performance Heating & Cooling and had a space to serve as his workshop. “ en I had the space in between,” he says. It was the perfect spot for a gallery.
Realizing he didn’t have the necessary inventory from his own Kovach Metal Smith studio to stock and ll a gallery showroom, he called upon his experiences with the springtime Gorge Artists Open Studios tours, studied the booklet that accompanies those tours, and started cold-calling artists. “It’s kind of an if-you-built-it-they-will-come thing,” he says with a smile. “Artists want to display their art, duh. Now there are 30 Columbia River artists here. So that happened. Oops!”
• photos ovided
STEVE KOWATS
e gallery has a hip-meets-homespun interior and exterior design that Kowats created using found materials and the help of his Carson neighbors over the course of three years. High ceilings, rough-hewn beams, old corrugated metal sheeting, brick and an inviting storefront window come together to house a rambunctious visual feast
of art — all manner and style of painting and drawing, ceramics, metal work, wood carving, textiles, and so much more.
As well, several members of his art coalition help out around the gallery almost simply because of the shop’s creative and collaborative vibe. It’s never been about the money. “It’s not really a business to me,” he says. “If I can make enough money with that building to keep
The Carson Art Garage, in a building that was once an auto garage and dealership, features the work of 30 artists from around the Gorge — including that of founder and metal artist Steve Kowats.
the utilities paid, it’s a beautiful thing. It met my immediate needs.”
And as if that weren’t enough for this creative whirling dervish, he and business partner Abigail Rice recently launched Two Fish Wine Bar immediately adjacent to the gallery and Kowats’s shop (which is a paean to superior mancaves and she-sheds everywhere — replete with equipment he inherited after the death of his father, who was a street rod builder, tasty stereo equipment that can blast everything from Roy Orbison to Rage Against the Machine and Motown, a microwave, coffeemaker, and a place to park his RV).
With his builder hands and right-brained vision and inspiration, Kowats intuited that Carson needed a local wine bar. He’d gotten tired of looking at the rundown space next door, a one-time ‘20s-era Mason lodge and chainsaw shop.
“It was falling down, and this space,” he says motioning around the new room, “was my intention. I purpose-built this as a wine bar. And then I went looking for a winery. My first thought was, I’ll go looking for wineries and surely they’ll want to put an employee in the upstairs two-bedroom apartment that I refinished, and then they’ll run their wines through here. That was naïve.”
Scrambling to find an entrepreneurially minded soul to fulfill this part of his vision led him to a Hood River wine festival, where he went table to table handing out flyers. Then a woman from Phelps Creek Winery pointedly said to him, “No, you don’t want one winery. You want a collaboration, many wineries to occupy your space.” An a-ha moment.
Enter Abigail Rice, a 23year-old wine enthusiast he met at the Cork Wine Shop
in the Heights in Hood River. A chat ensued, he left, and she called him a month later inquiring if he was still enthusiastic about starting a wine bar. A business deal was struck.
“I made it easy for her,” Kowats says. He hung art on the walls, he suggested live music once a week, and furnished her with a galley to prep small bites to accompany the wine. “We just made it happen. Total serendipity.”
Rice, who now occupies the upstairs flat, is from Hood River, and has worked in wineries most of her adult life, including a stint in Eugene, and most recently at Hedges Family Estates winery in Benton City, Washington. “If you look at every place in the world that grows wine grapes,” she says, “they’re all beautiful.” This place, she says, will ripple out through the greater Gorge, from Cascade Locks and Stevenson up to Goldendale. “Something about wine grabs people.”
The winery enjoyed a soft grand opening several weeks ago with 150 people attending. Two Fish is now open officially, with a steady crowd of upwards of 100 people on opening night wandering the studio, gallery and a packed wine bar to music provided by the French Twist. By all accounts Carson now has a zazzy (by the town’s homey standards) yet comfortable new neighbor and gathering place.
Kowats is in tight with the Carson community, earning street cred and respect with the locals for what he’s done with the place, putting in hundreds of hours of sweat equity in building and establishing the gallery and crafting the wine bar building. “I cut ever y piece of wood and installed it,” he says, with help from several locals. “It’s me in there.”
Art is not easy. But with a visionary like Kowats, collaborators like Abigail Rice and the artists who have found a home here, and a community like Carson, art always finds a way.
To learn more details, go to carsonartgarage.com
Don Campbell is a writer and musician. He hides out at a secret fortress on a hilltop in Mosier and is a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.
Steve Kowats renovated the building next door to the Carson Art Garage intending to locate a winery in the space. It recently opened as the Two Fish Wine Bar.
Hand-built biplane by Wally Olson
Feeding the Gorge
AS FOOD INSECURITY DEEPENS, LOCAL FOOD BANKS AND PANTRIES BECOME AN ESSENTIAL LIFELINE
THE LONGEST GOVERNMENT SHUTDOWN in U.S. history ended in November, but the stark issue of food insecurity, highlighted by the unprecedented suspension of the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) during the shutdown, endures. Even in the richest nation in the world, no place in the U.S. is immune to it. It is rampant, belying deeper and more complicated social problems yet to be solved. But hunger is simple. e war against it, said John F. Kennedy, “is truly mankind’s war of liberation.”
Some 42 million people rely on SNAP bene ts nationwide with 757,000 Oregonians on the program and 905,000 in Washington. In Oregon, one in six people use food stamps. In Washington, roughly one in eight. It's a sweeping problem daunting in its scope and reach. Locally, it is heartening to know there are tireless souls devoted to making sure there is food. e commitment runs deep here to keep our friends and neighbors fed.
On the Columbia River’s north shore, serving Klickitat and Skamania counties is the Washington Gorge Action Program’s food banks, with facilities in Goldendale, Klickitat, Stevenson and Bingen, and the WAGAP mobile food-bank truck serving outlying areas.
On the Oregon side, the Columbia Gorge Food Bank in e Dalles operates as a regional site under the Oregon Food Bank Network aegis, distributing food to its public pantry partners in Sherman, Wasco and Hood River counties — including Hood River’s long-running FISH Food Bank.
Below is a tighter focus on how we feed those in need and who is leading the charge.
CGFB
Breen Goodwin relocated from Portland to e Dalles, landing at the Columbia Gorge Food Bank as it opened the doors of its new facility in the port district in 2023. As exec-
utive director with a meager but enthusiastic sta of ve, she leads this regional hub that’s part of the greater Portland-based Oregon Food Bank Network. OFB serves 37 counties, 21 regional food banks, and over 1,200 distribution sites and public pantries. e Dalles branch is among the smallest.
“We are not a pantry or grocery store,” Goodwin explains. “As regional food banks, we are essentially the food brokers. We’re trying to get food down and out into our communities. But we’re also sourcing food and moving it up the chain if it’s more than we can use in our system.”
In addition, CGFB responds to regional emergencies like the Rowena Fire this past summer and an E. coli outbreak in the water at Shaniko.
CGFB’s 12,000-square-foot facility serves between 6,000 and 7,000 individuals regularly. at translates to 2,000 to 3,000 households. In November, the need increased dramatically. “ ere’s a pop-up
story by DON CAMPBELL • photos ovided
Paloma Ayala
pantry that functions out of our space on Tuesdays. ey normally service between 100 and 120 households. Yesterday, they were at 178,” she said on an early-November day.
For Goodwin and her sta , those numbers — small and insigni cant as they may sound — are staggering. “It’s not normal,” she said. “Our normal is already staggering, and wellabove what it was pre-pandemic.”
Resources over the last nine months have been declining for a number of reasons, Goodwin explains. e food bank relies heavily on federal commodities, donations and purchases, but
now faces shortages from program cancellations due to federal budget cuts — a recent one foreclosed on an estimated 250,000 pounds of sorely needed food.
As well, the food industry writ large has become more e cient with new systems and AI-enhanced procedures; there are simply fewer overages leading to donations.
“We’re in a challenging space,” she says. “When we see a household, a family, a senior, a veteran, whatever it might be, for a couple weeks, a couple months, or a year, something happened in their life, and we’re there to help. When we see the same family year over year over year, we are working well beyond the capacity that this system was designed to support. at is where we have been for years.”
FISH FOOD BANK
On the same property as the Spirit of Grace Lutheran-Methodist Church on Hood River’s Tucker Road, FISH Food Bank is a hands-on, dedicated food pantry that has operated for some 56 years
The Gorge Community Foundation has been
and students since 1999 by establishing and managing endowments. With recent changes in government funding and rising education costs, your support is more crucial than ever. Due to recent tax changes, 2025 could be an ideal time to establish a donor-advised fund. We invite you to join us at GCF and contribute to the support of those who support so many.
Fresh items are sorted at the Columbia Gorge Food Bank in The Dalles, opposite. Above, CGFB team member Wrayal McCourt puts together an order at the facility, which distributes to pantries and food banks in three Oregon counties.
Paloma Ayala
the community. Executive director Jacqueline Carey and longtime board member and chairperson Marianne Durkan walk me through the facility, which includes a Master Gardener-run plot that grows a portion of the food donated at the pantry.
“Yesterday was a record day,” Carey says on a mid-November afternoon. FISH served almost 100 families. “We are heading into some scary times.” Food banks, they explain, are meant to distribute at most a three-to- ve-day supply of food.
Despite being stretched, FISH aims to provide a welcoming environment, o ering a wide variety of food — canned goods, rice, bread, frozen meat, fresh produce, Hispanic and other ethnic foods, even some personal hygiene products and pet food.
“We try to create a pleasant and respectful facility,” Carey says. “We never require ID or addresses,” to protect privacy, an increasing concern for a number of pantry clients. “We’re lucky here, the community supports us.”
FISH and its small constellation of satellite pantries relies on a bevy of community partners, including enormous donations from grocery stores such as Safeway, Rosauers and Walmart, partnerships with agencies like e Next Door and the Food Security Coalition, hospitality providers like Mt. Hood Meadows for fundraising, orchardists, farmers and ranchers. And, of course, an army of volunteers who, says Durkan, “last year donated 14,000 hours of their time, which equals seven full-time employees.”
“We’re crafty around here,” Carey says as we take in depleted shelves and a not-full cooler. “To make it go a bit further, it takes a lot of hands.”
WASHINGTON GORGE ACTION PROGRAMS
On the main drag in Bingen, WAGAP, among its other social service programs, o ers food-bank aid to two counties in four brick-and-mortar facilities and one food truck. Nutrition director Janeal Booren and associate director Juan Reyes, amid the cacophony
of an o ce remodel, talk of its food banks that serve some 1,000 households a month.
Along with the recent challenges with SNAP bene ts, Booren says that the food they receive simply doesn’t stretch as far as it once did. Where she used to have weekly deliveries from several groups, they are now down to three not-necessarily full trucks; the last time a full truck arrived was during Covid, when resources were more plentiful and forthcoming.
Booren now nds herself purchasing thousands of dollars’ worth of food via a special dispensation from both Washington and Oregon entities, and relying on United Way and other groups, local fundraisers and various partners including local churches and businesses.
WAGAP relies heavily on its 50 volunteers — and could use more at its Bingen facility — to put together its food programs, including basic boxes, emergency food boxes and a senior program.
Booren is every inch a food power broker, nding ways and means to help keep people in her community fed. “I’m able to get good deals, and am able to do things,” she says. How can the community best help? “Money,” is her simple answer. Additionally, “If people want to shop,” she says, “I recommend they shop for multitudes of the same product.”
For Booren, the food bank is a Band-Aid, not meant to solve hunger. “It’s meant to help a ect hunger,” she says, “but we’re not the be-all end-all.” In a perfect world, there would be no need for food banks at all.
An older gentleman wearing a veteran’s cap with his old buddy dog beside him sit in a pickup near me in the parking lot at FISH. It’s nearly 1 p.m. He’s been there since 11:30 a.m., I learn, waiting to get in line for the opening of another afternoon distribution at 3. I want to ask him how he is and why he’s here. I don’t have the heart. I know why.
Don Campbell is a writer and musician. He hides out at a secret fortress on a hilltop in Mosier and is a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.
Samantha Rasmussen, Rick Thurber and Patti Nichols sort items at WAGAP’s Stevenson Food Bank, above. At left, a community garden at the FISH food bank, tended by the Hood River County Master Gardeners, provides a portion of food donated at the pantry.
Courtesy of FISH Food Bank
Courtesy of WAGAP
Celery, Apple & Fennel SALAD
This salad is simple and refreshing — a beautiful side to the richer, more comforting main dishes of the winter season, while also making use of the late fall harvest. It begins with licorice-y fennel and tart apple, thinly sliced, then comes alive with the addition of crisp, tender celery, crackly celery seeds, salt-flecked Parmesan, and bright lemon zest. It’s perfect for a solo lunch, to accompany roasted chicken, and I’ve even been known to make it for breakfast — that’s the kind of craving it inspires.
INGREDIENTS
• 1 sweet apple, cored and thinly sliced
• 2-3 center ribs of celery (leaves included), thinly sliced on the bias
• 2 small bulbs fennel, trimmed, cored and thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup fennel fronds, finely chopped
• 1/2 tsp. celery seeds
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped Parmesan
• 1/4 cup roughly chopped Italian parsley
• zest of 1 lemon
• juice of 1 lemon (about 1/4 cup)
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• kosher salt
• freshly ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
In a small bowl whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil, and season it to taste with salt and pepper. Set it aside.
In a large bowl toss together the apple, celery, fennel, fennel fronds, celery seeds, Parmesan, parsley and lemon zest. Toss immediately with the dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.
Recipe & photos by KACIE MCMACKIN
Kacie McMackin is an avid cook, writer, and owner of Kings & Daughters Brewery. She’s a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.
BACKWOODS BREWING COMPANY
509-427-3412
• backwoodsbrewingcompany.com 1162 Wind River Hwy • Carson
Backwoods Brewing is family owned and located in Carson, WA. Established in 2012, we o er delicious beers, hand-made pizzas, outdoor seating, and welcome all ages. Now featuring brunch on the weekends!
Open daily: 11:30am-9pm
DOPPIO COFFEE
541-386-3000 • doppiohoodriver.com
310 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River
Relax on our beautiful patio in the heart of Hood River. Enjoy a hand crafted, in-house roasted espresso drink. Serving breakfast and lunch all day: panini sandwiches, fresh salads, smoothies and fresh baked pastries and goodies. Gluten free options available. Free Wi-Fi and our patio is dog friendly.
GROUND ESPRESSO BAR & CAFE
541-386-4442 • groundhoodriver.com
12 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River
Get your daily fuel for your Gorge sports and activities here!
A long time locals favorite coffee house and eatery, Ground features fresh in-house roasted coffee, house made pastries and cookies with lots of gluten free options. We make our soups from scratch every day and source mostly local and organic ingredients. Nitro cold brew on tap.
BETTER TOGETHER MOBILE TAP TRUCK
bettertogethertaptruck@gmail.com bettertogethertaptruck.com
Dakota and Greg Wilkins serve the Gorge bringing the bar to you with 6 beverage taps on a classic GMC pickup. They are ready to serve your favorite beverage at your event!
Reserving now for 2026
EL PUERTO DE ANGELES III
541-308-0005
1306 12th Street • Hood River, on the Heights We are open and happy to serve you. Authentic Jalisco Cuisine. We provide a safe dining experience. Enjoy good food and good times. Offering daily lunch and dinner specials, served all day. Happy Hour Mon-Fri. Outdoor dining available (weather permitting).
Open Daily 10am-9pm Dine-In or Takeout
THE LITTLE SEVEN SEVEN RANCH HIGHLAND BEEF
509-767-7130 • L77Ranch.com • Lyle, WA
Grass-Fed Highland Beef from our ranch to your home. Known for flavor and tenderness, Highland Beef is higher in protein and iron, lower in fat and cholesterol than conventional beef. The L77 Ranch Shop stocks a full variety of USDA packaged steaks, roasts, ground beef and more. Email for a Local Price List. By appointment only.
BRIDGESIDE
541-374-8477 • bridgesidedining.com
Exit 44 off I-84, Cascade Locks
Stunning views next to the Bridge of the Gods – Bridgeside serves tasty char-broiled burgers plus an extensive menu of breakfast items, sandwiches, chowders, baskets, salads & desserts. Dine-in or takeout. Serving breakfast and lunch with friendly service.
Gift shop • Special event room & terrace
EVERYBODY’S BREWING
509.637.2774 • everybodysbrewing.com
177 E. Jewett Boulevard • Downtown White Salmon
Experience the heart of the Columbia River Gorge! We o er handcrafted beers, diverse dishes, and a welcoming atmosphere. Join us for live music, community events, and a taste of the Pacific Northwest. Cheers to beer for everybody!
Open 7 days a week, 11:30 to close!
PFRIEM FAMILY BREWERS
541-321-0490 • pfriembeer.com
707 Portway Avenue, Suite 101 • Hood River Waterfront
pFriem artisanal beers are symphonies of flavor and balance, influenced by the great brewers of Europe, but unmistakably true to our homegrown roots in the Pacific Northwest. Although they are served humbly, each glass is overflowing with pride and a relentless aspiration to brew the best beer in the world. We’ll let you decide. Open Daily | 11am-9pm
RIVERSIDE RESTAURANT & BAR
541-386-4410
• riversidehoodriver.com
Exit 64 off I-84 • Waterfront Hood River
Welcome to Riverside, where you’ll find the best food, drinks and views in the Gorge. Dine indoors or outdoors on the waterfront with fresh menus changing seasonally, a wine list with the area’s best selections, and 14 taps with all your favorite local breweries. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner with the freshest ingredients grown and harvested by thoughtful, intentional local growers.
SUSHI OKALANI
541-386-7423
• sushiokalani@gorge.net
109 First Street • Downtown Hood River
Come find us in the basement of the Yasui Building, the local’s favorite spot for fresh fish, Pan-Asian Cuisine, and a rockin’ atmosphere! Lots of rotating specials, creative rolls, and a large sake selection means you’re always trying something new! Private rooms are available for groups up to 20 people. Take-out menu available online. Open for dinner Mon-Sat at 5pm, closing hours change seasonally.
YOUR PARTAKE LISTING HERE
Contact Jody Thompson for more information: 425-308-9582 • jthompson@thegorgemagazine.com
541-399-6333 • thegorgemagazine.com
The Gorge is a mecca for great food and drink: restaurants, cafés, wineries, breweries, food carts & more. Help visitors and locals decide where to dine and drink. They’ll see your ad in print and in the online digital edition of the magazine…for one affordable price!
RESERVE A PARTAKE LISTING SPACE TODAY
Artist Cindy Ives set out to paint something entirely different when she embarked on the work that became this piece, entitled Atmosphere. Frustrated when it wasn’t coming together as she envisioned, she switched gears and started imagining a beautiful, active night sky. Using alcohol ink, she began adding “lots and lots of layers” and over the course of several days, this luminous, forested night scene emerged. “Part of the reason I like the layers is, for me, it’s like the layers of my life,” she said. “With all the wonderful and the challenging aspects, it can end up being beautiful.”
the artist
Some artists actively seek out a creative path, but CINDY IVES tells people that art found her. At 50, while enrolling her son in a fledgling private art school in Portland, the director persuaded her to take some art classes, too. “I was reluctant because I had never done any kind of art before,” she said. But she quickly took to it, pursuing classes in pencil drawing, acrylics, watercolor and pastels. After she and her husband moved to White Salmon in 2016, she discovered alcohol ink while looking for creative projects to use in her kids’ art camps. “The challenge is that these inks are unpredictable because alcohol evaporates very quickly,” she said. “But that makes it fun.” The inks are translucent, she added, so each layer builds on what’s beneath it without fully obscuring it. “That’s exactly what I like about it. It’s surprising, and I can’t ever guarantee how something is going to turn out.” Find Cindy Ives Art on Facebook.
Cyndee is a NW native and has called Hood River home for over 20 years. Licensed in OR & WA, Cyndee is a top producer in The Gorge.
THINKING OF LISTING? READY TO BUY?
Cyndee can help you achieve your Real Estate goals – ask her clients!
“Cyndee was incredible to work with. She’s very knowledgeable of the market, extremely easy to communicate with, and was patient in helping us find what we were looking for. I would absolutely use her again and recommend her to anyone looking to buy in Hood River.”
– Jacob S.
