WINTER 2014 thegorgemagazine.com
from bean to brew Coffee Roasters Rising
Making tracks
Snowshoe Here, Now
port-style wine
It's What’s for Dessert
a complete guide to
weddings in the columbia gorge 2014 wedding booklet see insert page 56
The Tilly Jane Cabin on Mount Hood
U N IQ U E J E WELRY ◉ HOME ACCENTS ◉ CUSTOM GIFTS ◉ SINC E 1 9 9 4
305 Oak Street • Hood River (541) 386-6188 • twiggs@gorge.net
Visit Historic Downtown
TrouTdale the gateway to the gorge Take Exit 17 off I-84
Visit our many Specialty Shops, Art Galleries, Antique Shops, Fine Restaurants, and more!
Taste of Village Two floors full of: Kitchenware, Glass, Native American, Pottery, Furniture, Primitives, Toys, Artwork & more! public parking available behind antique mall
Open Daily Mon-Sat:11-5:30pm Sun: noon-5pm
(503) 674-6820 359 E. Columbia River Highway
Chinese RestauRant & Lounge { Cantonese and Mandarin Cuisine }
A rt- G l A s s J ew e l ry of f ice / studio / galler y
oRDeRs to go: (503) 666-7768 302 e. historic Columbia River hwy
149 e. Historic Columbia river Hwy (503) 328-8661 • (877) 919-1217 www.marcopolodesigns.com
sun-thur, 11-10pm • Fri & sat, 11-10:30pm
gifts HomE dECoR EspREsso
Troutdale Vision Clinic (503) 618-9394
celebratemehoameonline.com 319 E. Historic Columbia River Hwy
Eye exams, diagnosis and treatment Eyewear styling to fit your lifestyle Most insurance accepted
(503) 492-3897 • troutdalevision.com 226 E. Historic Columbia River Hwy
café • gifts • candy • souvenirs espresso • ice cream parlour
(503) 492-7912
289 E. COLUMBIA RIVER HWY
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 3
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features 21 R oasters rising From bean to brew, Gorge coffee roasters are proving their prowess by janet cook
36 A PORT IN ANY STORM Pairing port-style wines and cold winter nights by don campbell
62 SNOW A photo essay by Richard Hallman
Winter camp at Illumination Rock on Mount Hood
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 5
76 departments 10 Currents 12 Question + Answer 14 Things We Love 16 What's Happening 18 Person of Interest 56 Wedding Style 76 Partake 82 A Thousand Words
38 outside Making Tracks in Winter's Snowy Wonderland Snowshoeing offers a fun and easy way to enjoy the season by don campbell 42 Arts + Culture Dancing Isn't Just for Stars The Secret Salsa Society takes Gorge dance floors by storm
by matt werbach
by don campbell
58 home + Garden Wine Barrel Metamorphosis Artisan Rick Pauly gets creative with Stave Designs
48 wellness A Journey from Patient to Healer By changing her lifestyle, Jo Matson was able to leave her suffering from Crohn’s disease behind
72 b ounty From Hood River, With Love The Fruit Company's gourmet gifts of local fruit and treats bring joy on holidays and other special occasions
by ruth berkowitz
6 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
54 b usiness profile Working to Restore the Flow Hood River’s boutique engineering firm, Inter-Fluve, keeps waterways healthy around the country and beyond
by janet cook
by janet cook
58
Skyline Hospital Personal • Professional • Progressive
editor
Janet Cook
creative director+graphic designer
Rachel Hallett
advertising director
Micki Chapman
account executives
Kris Goodwillie, Jenna Hallett
contributing editor Adam Lapierre intern
Marcus Morrison
contributing writers Ruth Berkowitz, Don Campbell, Adam Lapierre, Kacie McMackin, Matt Werbach cover photographer
Blaine Franger
contributing photographers Tim Doty, Jeff Fothergill, Blaine Franger, Jennifer Gulizia, Richard Hallman, Jen Jones, Adam Lapierre, Peter Marbach, Maren McGowan, Kacie McMackin, Michael Peterson, Shelly Peterson, Denise Rehse-Watson
The Gorge Magazine is published by Eagle Magazines, Inc., an affiliate of Eagle Newspapers, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Eagle Magazines, Inc. Articles and photographs appearing in The Gorge Magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of The Gorge Magazine, Eagle Magazines, Inc., Eagle Newspapers, Inc., or its employees, staff or management. All RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
24/7 Emergency Room Digital Mammography Physical Therapy & Sports Medicine Cardiology, Podiatry, Orthopedics Travel Medicine Clinic Laboratory Services
(509) 493-1101 • www.skylinehospital.com 211 NE Skyline Drive • White Salmon
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 7
our gorge editor's letter
My first memories of coffee are of the aluminum percolator that lived more or less permanently on the stove in my childhood home. I remem-
Cupping at Pacific Rim Coffee Roasters
ber, at age 4 or 5, standing in my nightgown, watching the liquid gurgle and swirl in the little glass knob at the top. I loved the rich aroma and the steady rattle of the pot as the coffee boiled. Coffee also held a little bit of intrigue long before I ever tasted it because my grandmother disapproved of it, and eyed my parents with suspicion for having taken up the habit. “Kurtie-boy,” she would say sternly to my older brother, who would come of coffeedrinking age long before me. “You stay away from that stuff. It’ll stunt your growth.” By the time I landed in the Pacific Northwest for college years later, the region’s coffee culture was on the rise. But my coffee-drinking life truly began at The Coffee Spot in Hood River the summer I moved to the Gorge. Long-time locals and visitors will remember the iconic shop from the ‘80s and ‘90s, where Ground is now. To the delight of local and visiting coffee drinkers, the Gorge is now awash in the dark brew. And as we detail beginning on page 21, a growing number of micro-roasters call the Gorge home as well. For me, a visit to each one offered not only an education in the art and science of coffee roasting, but a glimpse at each roaster’s unique approach to their craft. Also, I got to drink a lot of great coffee. Grandma, may your soul rest in peace but I sure do enjoy a good cup o’ joe. In this issue, we also celebrate winter with a stunning photo essay by Hood River photographer Richard Hallman (page 62). Don Campbell explores snowshoeing opportunities in the Gorge (page 38) as well as the Secret Salsa Society (page 42). And Ruth Berkowitz writes about White Salmon resident Jo Matson and her journey from sickness to health through lifestyle changes (page 48). Also in this issue you’ll find our annual publication, A Complete Guide to Weddings in the Columbia Gorge. Grab a cup of whatever warms you up, and read on. Happy winter!
janet cook, editor
8 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
WINTER 2014 thegorgemagazine.com
from bean to brew Coffee roasters rising
making traCks
snowshoe Here, now
port-style wine
it's what’s for Dessert
a complete guide to
weddings in the columbia gorge 2014 wedding booklet see insert page 56
the tilly Jane Cabin on mount Hood
about the cover The historic Tilly Jane Cabin on the northeast flank of Mount Hood makes a cozy winter destination for snowshoers and skiers using the Tilly Jane Trail. The cabin, built in 1939, can be reserved for overnight use for up to 20 people. cover photo by Blaine Franger | beautifulhoodriver.com
The Gorge Magazine
Draw! Pen, Paper & Beyond January 10 - February 2
(541) 399-6333 // thegorgemagazine.com PO BOX 390 // Hood River, Oregon 97031 We appreciate your feedback. Please email comments to: jcook@thegorgemagazine.com The Gorge Magazine is being produced by an environmentally conscientious group. Our publication is printed with text paper that is produced by a local mill located in West Linn, Oregon. West Linn paper mill and Journal Graphics, our publication printer, both follow FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) practices in the manufacturing and the printing of our product. This publication is also produced with soy based inks. When you have read this issue please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. Together we can make a difference in preserving and conserving our resources.
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 9
our gorge currents
news+views snow park alert Oregon and Washington no longer honor each other’s Snow Park permits, required to park in winter recreation areas. The states have had a reciprocity agreement for 35 years, whereby a Snow Park pass bought in either state was good in both states. But no more, as of October 1. Oregon Snow Park passes cost $25 per season, while Washington charges $40 for theirs. Oregon Snow Park passes will still be honored in Idaho and California. Passes for both states are available at DMV offices, as well as at sporting goods and other retail outlets in the Gorge and elsewhere.
Go Local The Gorge Owned Business Network (GO!) is once again challenging holiday shoppers to put their money where their heart is by shopping locally. “When you spend your money locally, the entire community benefits,” says GO!’s Becky Brun. Studies show that locally-owned, independent businesses return 70 to 80 percent more of each dollar earned back to local economies compared to chain retailers. Plus, when you shop local, you help maintain local jobs, reduce fuel costs and carbon emissions, and build stronger connections with your community. The GO! Local Challenge: Spend at least $50 with three local businesses or nonprofits, complete an online form and get entered to win prizes. (gorgeowned.org)
New Brew Cascade Locks is home to the Gorge’s newest brewery and tasting room. Thunder Island Brewing Co. opened in October in a renovated industrial building along the Columbia River. “As the closest brewery to Multnomah Falls, visitors can now enjoy a locally brewed beer right here in Cascade Locks,” said co-owner Dave Lipps. “And with the Pacific Crest Trail, the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail and the Cascade Locks International Mountain Bike Trail in our backyard, we look forward to serving beer to those exploring the area.” Lipps and co-founder Dan Hynes brew on a two-barrel system. Current offerings include a Pale Ale, a Scotch Porter, an IPA and a Kolsch. The brewery also plans to offer seasonal and specialty beers throughout the year. (thunderislandbrewing.com)
10 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
hip sips Restaurant: Baldwin Saloon bartender: Tracy Linebarger cocktail: Spanish Coffee • 1 oz 151 Rum • 1 oz Kahlua Coffee Liquer • ½ oz Triple Sec or Grand Marnier
WAAAM Expands
• Fresh Brewed Coffee
Hood River’s Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum has just finished its second large expansion since opening in 2007. The new space will accommodate more cars and antique engines, and allow for an expanded Kids’ Zone, featuring a hand-built airplane, helicopter and submarine, as well as other “toys” for kids to explore. The existing exhibit hangars have been rearranged to better display the airplanes and autos, and to accommodate the continuing growth of the collection. The renowned museum now includes 100 airplanes from as far back as 1917, more than 120 cars starting with some built in 1899, and motorcycles dating back to 1912. (waaamuseum.org)
• Whipped Cream • Sugar and nutmeg Coat the rim of a seven ounce wine glass with lime juice and sugar. Pour 151 rum in the glass, light and flame until sugar bubbles. Add a dash of triple sec, Kahlua, and fill with hot coffee. Garnish with whipped cream and a sprinkle of nutmeg.
Winter Reading Dust Pan Girl is the first book by Hood River author Randy Fox, writing as James Fox. The adult thriller takes place in the Hood River Valley, and centers around a highly skilled con man. A host of other characters keeps the action going, as well as the suspense. The indie book, currently available only as an e-book, spent several weeks after its release on Amazon’s Top 100 Crime Thrillers list. According to Fox, a London publisher is interested in releasing the book in print. Stay tuned.
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 11
our gorge question + answer
tounding. We can’t wait to open the doors to feed everyone and celebrate this project.
Q: Why do you think it was so successful? Suzanne: I think people love being rallied to get in-
volved. We showed some vulnerability by asking for help, but it worked. Also, I think people recognize that we donate often and generously to a lot of important causes and projects in the Gorge and they wanted to reward us for that commitment. But more simply, we feel that we offered fun, engaging and generous rewards for pledges. We are still so awed by the power and support of folks who live and visit here.
Q: You put unlikely ingredients like cherries, huckleberries and fiddlehead ferns on pizza. How do you come up with these combinations—and make them taste so good? Aaron: We live in food paradise. The Gorge is any
Aaron & Suzanne baumhackl
After six years in Bingen, Aaron and Suzanne Baumhackl have moved Solstice Woodfire Café to a brand new building on the Hood River waterfront—thanks in part to funding from hundreds of fans that contributed to a Kickstarter campaign. We caught up with the couple just before their new restaurant opened to talk pizza, and other things. by janet cook
Q: Why pizza? Why wood-fire pizza? Aaron: Pizza is a super fun and versatile medium to
create with. The fun part of pizza is that I can be a chef with a dish that almost everyone enjoys and I get to be creative and push people’s traditional comfort zones. (For example, our wildly popular locally sourced Country Girl Cherry pizza with Chorizo.) I love playing with fire and I love the balance of crispy and chewiness of the wood-fire crust. When we moved here in 2006, we saw the opportunity to introduce inventive wood-fire pizza to the Gorge, so we seized it.
Q: To help fund your new restaurant in Hood River, you turned to Kickstarter. Why? Suzanne: We had to give it a try because we weren’t
eligible for conventional financing. We also needed
12 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
to raise a lot of money to build this new space and we really didn’t want to give away equity to investors. We’ve worked really hard the past seven years and decided to fund our business growth through a mix of funding options. Kickstarter was really appealing because you reward pledges with creative items, you don’t ask for donations. We also wanted to involve the community and see if they would validate our plans. Also, when the opportunity arose to relocate to the waterfront, we felt strongly that people would welcome the opportunity to cocreate the waterfront neighborhood.
Q: How much did you raise? Suzanne: Our 456 generous backers helped us meet
our goal of $50,000 in just two weeks. And they kept going—we surpassed our goal and reached $57,647 in just three weeks. This community is as-
true chef ’s dream “market” for fresh fruit, wild fish and game, and local foraging (plus great wine and beer!). The special combinations come from different inspirations including mixing sweet, spicy and savory, or from a tasty meal or a twist on a classic, or plain experimentation with ingredients that are new to me.
Q: You focus heavily on using fresh, local ingredients. Tell us more. Aaron: We love having a personal relationship with
our purveyors, whether it’s the Yakima Nation fisherman or the family-run blueberry grower. These growers are true motivators for us. Their pride in what they do inspires us to create tasty dishes using their hand-grown, pasture-raised, fresh-caught or foraged ingredient.
Q: Where did the idea for the mobile pizza oven come from? Aaron: It’s something that we wanted to do from
the get-go, but we felt like we needed to establish ourselves as brick-and-mortar first. Finally, with seeing the surge in the food-cart scene in Portland, we pulled the trigger and built our first mobile in 2011. We now bring the pizza to the people.
Q: What’s your favorite thing about the new Solstice? Aaron: The view. Suzanne: We’ve had a rare chance to fulfill our dream
and co-create this vibrant space from the ground up. We hope the success of our business and our focus on sourcing local fosters abundance for us all. Solstice Hood River is a reflection of Aaron and me, this town, and how much we love our community on both sides of the river.•
KEEP YOUR
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COLUMBIA GORGE Shop local. Create local. Play local. When you spend your money with Gorge Owned businesses, you help ensure 30% more money stays in our local economy. And that means more wealth for all. Join us in the GO! Local Challenge. Show your support and win prizes!
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the sun…the gorge…the dalles
imagine…300 days of blissful sunshine
plus world-class fishing, cycling, hiking, wineries, and an authentic historic town surrounded by amazing landscape
stay connected: 541/296-2231 • visitthedalles.com facebook.com/TheDallesAreaChamber
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 13
our gorge things we love
3 5
4
Local baristas dress for the season in winter fashions from area retail shops photos by denise rehse-watson, styled by robin allen, make-up by amy goheen
14 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
1. Phebe/Dog River Coffee: Tokyo Bay purse/Out on a Limb ($72), L.A.M.B. parka/Doug's Sports ($329.95), Shirt with thumb holes/Dakine*, Shiraleah "Dakota" scarf/ Out on a Limb ($30), Fleece leggings/Dakine*, Paper Street Jewelery ring/Isabel & Eden ($18), BOGS red boots/Footwise ($100). 2. Justin/Dog River Coffee: Union Coulee camo hoody/The Ruddy Duck ($46), TANKFARM jacket/The Ruddy Duck ($100), Matix gripper denim/The Ruddy Duck ($71),
Backpack/Dakine*, Old West boots/Tony's Town & Country ($140). 3. Kimberly/Dog River Coffee: "Gianna" hat/Pistil ($34), MO & CO. fringe purse/ Out on a Limb ($75), Pure & Co. sweater/ A Boutique ($121.95), Pure Amici blouse/Lily Atelier ($32), Luv4Anouka athletic pants/Out on a Limb ($37), Paper Street Jewelery ring/ Isabel & Eden ($18), Free People ruffle socks/ Parts+Labour ($15), Roxy "Alexa" wedges/ Doug's Sports ($59).
4. Lynette/Dog River Coffee: Grace Hats felt fedora/Parts+Labour ($52), Tano black clutch/ Parts+Labour ($119), Wooden Ships fingerless gloves/ Isabel & Eden ($32), Wool blend tights/Plenty ($40), Timo Weiland cheetah sweatshirt ($365) and quilted skirt ($365)/ Plenty, Frye "Regina" wedge/Plenty ($288). 5. Ben/10 Speed Coffee: Burton landing jacket/Doug's Sports ($189.95), Ezekiel "Bonanza" shirt/The Ruddy Duck ($55), French Connection sweater/The Ruddy Duck
($200), Matix gripper denim/The Ruddy Duck ($71), "Norton" hat/Pistil ($32), Sorel boots/ Footwise ($110). 6. J ess/10 Speed Coffee: Shiraleah mustard cloche/Out on a Limb ($40), Ilse Jacobsen camo jacket/Lily Atelier ($338), Nick & Mo sweater dress/Out on a Limb ($75), Paper Street Jewelery ring/Isabel & Eden ($18), Wool blend tights/Plenty ($40), Eric Michael "Lena" wedge boots/Zellas ($168).
7. Dylan/Ground Espresso Bar+CafĂŠ: "Station" satchel/Dakine*, B.I.N.S. chambray shirt/The Ruddy Duck ($65), Wood Thumb tie/ The Ruddy Duck ($41), Marmot "Ajax" jacket/ Doug's Sports ($165), Matix gripper selvedge denim/The Ruddy Duck ($108), Dingo Boots/ Tony's Town & Country ($130). 8. Laurel/10 Speed Coffee: "Darby" backpack/Dakine*, Yest "Asja" cardigan tunic sweater/A Boutique ($85.95), Nick & Mo military jacket/Out on a Limb ($115), Paper Street
Jewelery ring/Isabel & Eden ($18), Socksmith trouser socks/Isabel & Eden ($8), Toms "Desert Wedge"/Doug's Sports ($89). 9. Travis/Doppio Coffee + Lounge: Corduroy cap/Dakine*, Solid Threads t-shirt/ The Ruddy Duck ($26), Ezekiel plaid shirt/The Ruddy Duck ($59), Alternative Earth sweater/ The Ruddy Duck ($53), Matrix gripper cord pants/The Ruddy Duck ($72), "Buck" fingerless gloves/Pistil ($36), Redwing boots/Tony's Town & Country ($200).
10. Jess/Doppio Coffee + Lounge: Iris Corky snakeskin purse/Dakine*, Luv4Anouka long sleeve shirt/Out on a Limb ($45), Vi Vi designs
mustard shrug/Out on a Limb ($30), Nick & Mo reversible skirt/Out on a Limb ($67), Little Boot Peeps/A Boutique ($19.95), Ilse Jacobsen rubber boots/Lily Atelier ($198). *Dakine items: see local retail stores for price.
A Boutique: Stevenson, WA/aboutique.us dakine: Hood River, OR/dakine.com Dougs Sports: Hood River, OR/dougshoodriver.com footwise: Hood River, OR/footwise.com isabel & eden: Hood River, OR/isabelandeden.com Lily Atelier: Camas, WA/lilyatelier.com Out on a Limb: Stevenson, WA/Find us on facebook Parts+Labour: Hood River, OR/parts-labour.com Pistil: Hood River, OR/pistildesigns.com Plenty: Hood River, OR/plentyhoodriver.com Tony's Town & Country: The Dalles, OR/Find us on facebook The Ruddy Duck: Hood River, OR/ruddyduckstore.com
the gorge magazine // fall 2013 15
our gorge events calendar
Holiday Open House Columbia Gorge Discovery Center gorgediscovery.org
1. Scenes from the Nutcracker, December 14-15 (photo by Adam Lapierre). 2. Standing on the summit of Kala Patthar at 18,500 feet, a peak that rises high above Everest base camp where you can look down and see hundreds of red and yellow dots that mark the the tent city that emerges every spring. Nepal Photo Presentation, a benefit for the Kumari Medical Center, December 18 (photo by Peter Marbach). 3. Randy Kiyokawa: A Farmer’s Struggles To Succeed in the Hood River Valley, Columbia Center for the Arts February 5.
second saturdays at WAAAM waaamuseum.org
december
November 1- December 1 Abstract Expressions Columbia Center for the Arts columbiaarts.org December 4 Sense of Place Lecture Series Eric Gleason: The History and Archaeology of The Dalles Chinatown Columbia Center for the Arts gorgeowned.org December 4-7 Festival of Trees The Dalles Civic Auditorium donate.mcmc.net
16 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
December 5 AniChe Cellars Holiday Vino & Vendors anichecellars.com December 6 Hood River Holiday Kickoff Downtown Hood River hoodriver.org First Friday: Hometown Holidays and Tree Lighting Downtown Camas downtowncamas.com Christmas Tree lighting Downtown Troutdale westcolumbiagorgechamber.com First Friday Art Walk Downtown Troutdale westcolumbiagorgechamber.com December 7 Brew Fest Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort skihood.com
january
December 7-8 Mosier Country Christmas Fair Mosier Community School (541) 478-3312 December 8 Benefit Concert for United Way Hood River Best Western unitedwaycolumbiagorge.org
January 2-4 3-Day Holiday Kids Camp Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort skihood.com
December 12-15, 19-21 The Best Christmas Pageant Ever Columbia Center for the Arts columbiaarts.org December 14 Dufur Hometown Christmas thedalleschamber.com
January 8 Sense of Place Lecture Series Arthur Babitz: The Ghosts in Our Backyard Springhouse Cellar gorgeowned.org
December 14-15 Scenes from the Nutcracker Hood River Middle School columbiagorgedanceacademy.com Last Chance Holiday Bazaar Hood River County Fairgrounds hoodriver.org December 15 Meadows Winter Demo Day skihood.com December 18 Peter Marbach Photography Nepal Presentation Benefit for Kumari Medical Center Columbia Center for the Arts columbiaarts.org
january 3 First Friday Downtown Camas downtowncamas.com
January 12 Chef ’s Table dinner series St. Mark’s Episcopal Church RSVP to (541) 386-2077 January 20 REI Nordic Day Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort skihood.com
february
February 5 Sense of Place Lecture Series Randy Kiyokawa: A Farmer’s Struggles To Succeed in the Hood River Valley Columbia Center for the Arts gorgeowned.org
December 21-23 3-Day Holiday Kids Camp Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort skihood.com
February 7 First Friday Art Walk Downtown Troutdale westcolumbiagorgechamber.com
December 22 Holiday High Tea columbiagorgehotel.com
First Friday: A Chocolate Affair to Remember Downtown Camas downtowncamas.com
December 29 Hood River Christmas Bird Count hoodriverhobbies.com
special advertising section
Live Here.
GIVE HERE.
Find your your piece Find piece of The Gorge! of Gorge!
The “Season of Giving” is here.
In addition to holiday cards and gifts, mailboxes are filled with requests from charitable organizations who understand that the vast majority of charitable giving is made during the last month of the year. According to the National Philanthropic Trust, 88% of households in the country donate to one or more charities. But even seasoned donors report that they are frequently overwhelmed by the number of worthy causes. “People are generous by nature,” reports Lynn Everroad, Executive Director of the Gorge Community Foundation. “But they want to make sure that their charitable donations are aligned with their values, and that their gift will matter.”
Portland Portland hashas discovered discovered thethe gorge Gorge option option for for a second a second home. home. The ah-ha moment has come! Whether looking for a second or primary home, rental or commercial property, The Peggy Hoag Group provides local knowledge and a local presence. Susan Lestock, full time real estate professional, licensed in Oregon and and Washington Washington and and longtime longtime Gorge gorge resident bridges the gap between the out of town buyer and local connections.
“I am passionate about the organizations I’ve supported for years, or even decades. I still give to those, but I really love learning of new efforts in the community through the Gorge Community Foundation, and granting to them.” Lisa Neuburger, White Salmon, WA
The Peggy Hoag Group has real estate connections that could change your life.
Giving locally is one way to bring focus to giving, and it is one of the key tenets of a community foundation. There are more than 700 community foundations in the country, each one committed to improving the quality of life in their own community. The Gorge Community Foundation is no exception, serving communities on both sides of the Columbia River from Cascade Locks to Goldendale, and all points in-between. Community foundations share other characteristics, too, such as helping donors find projects that resonate with their interests. Once a year, philanthropist Lisa Neuburger reviews proposals submitted to GCF, and she generally finds several that interest her. She also likes the fact that by joining with other like-minded donors, her individual gift has more impact. Last year, the Gorge Community Foundation granted $125,000 to local charitable causes. By putting philanthropy in the hands of many, a wide range of needs can be addressed, from providing food and shelter, to encouraging seniors to practice Tai Chi.
Three Ways to Give
www.gorgecf.org 541-354-2009
1. Contribute to the Gorge Community Foundation and help us grow. With your help, we will continue to improve the quality of life in the Gorge communities. 2. If you prefer to donate to a specific cause here in the Columbia Gorge, you can find a designated fund that interests you— getting kids outside, helping animals, honoring history, or more than twenty other worthy causes. 3. Create your own endowment fund with the Gorge Community Foundation, and extend your charitable giving to future generations. Endowment funds are our speciality and you can establish one with us in a matter of minutes.
Peggy Hoag | Principal Broker Licensed in Oregon & Washington
M: 541.490.9292 | D: 503.906.1370 peggy@peggyhoag.com www.peggyhoag.com www.gorgepropertysearch.com
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 17
our gorge person of interest
TEMIRA WAGONFELD
Weather forecaster helps Gorge sports junkies get the goods Like many compulsive adventure addicts who call the Gorge home, Temira Wagonfeld has a fiendishly good time choosing her poison from one day to the next. Her motto—and the title of her popular website/blog/weather forecasting service—is “The Gorge is My Gym,” and the 38-year-old with the energy of a hyperactive teenager exemplifies that mantra to the letter. Whether it’s sailing a classic big wind day at Arlington, kayaking down the White Salmon River, mountain biking the Syncline, road biking the rolling hills of The Dalles wheat country, or skiing the slopes of Mt. Hood Meadows, the Gorge provides an abundance of world-class recreation any day of the year. Wagonfeld finds great satisfaction in doing all of the above, helping inform others about the recreational joys of the Gorge, and in living a lifestyle very few places in the world can afford. “I don’t think we humans are meant to be indoors as much as we are,” says Wagonfeld, who moved to Hood River in the late 1990s to follow her dream of being a professional windsurfer. “I
18 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
by adam lapierre
think it’s really important for people to get out and be active and take advantage of outdoor opportunities. In the Gorge we are fortunate to have worldclass outdoor recreation year-round. This really is an amazing place to call home, and I feel so lucky to live here.” Although she moved to the Gorge to pursue professional windsurfing, Wagonfeld ultimately realized the on-the-go lifestyle and the uncertainty of the industry wasn’t all it was cracked up to be. “I spent six years going from Hood River in the summers to Maui in the winters,” she says. “But it was a hard life.” There wasn’t any money or even free gear in the sport, she says—at least not for women. “I was constantly moving around, working overtime as a cook and trying to make things work in the windsurfing world. After a while I realized I would have to figure something else out.” These days, Wagonfeld still jumps, jibes and slashes Columbia River swells like a pro, but like many who move to the Gorge for recreation, she has settled into the community and is making a
modest living doing something she loves. “Basically, I tell other people to go out and play, and I get paid for it,” she says. Through her website, blog and subscription service, Wagonfeld has become a popular (and reliable) source for precise recreation weather forecasting for the Gorge and Mount Hood region. She also works as a Mt. Hood Meadows snow reporter in the winter and does weather and event reports for the radio stations of BiCoastal Media. “If I can help or encourage people to get outside and recreate and be healthy and enjoy the amazing trails and resources we have here, I feel like I’ve done something for the community,” Wagonfeld says. “I love helping others make the most of their day. It gives me a lot of satisfaction knowing that people rely on my forecasts to plan their fun.” She says it also “means the world” to her when a local orchardist, fisherman or pilot tells her they use her forecast. Wagonfeld says she just “fell into” the role she now holds as expert weather prognosticator. It started as a few windsurfer friends e-mailing each other with their best guesses on where the good conditions would be for the day. “First there were six people on the list, then there were 10, then 120, then hundreds,” she says. “It’s funny, I had never intended on doing this and I didn’t think of myself as an expert.” She started researching and trying to put out a better forecast that she and her friends could use. “I have this tendency to want to be really good at whatever I’m involved with, so I started digging deeper into the different models that were out there,” she says. “I learned as much as I could, read a couple of meteorological books and started getting better at it.” She says it took years to figure out the nuances of local weather. “I get it right most of the time now,” she says. “Once in a while I blow it, and if I do I always look back at what happened during the day to see what factors I missed.” Wagonfeld's website had more than 250,000 visits in 2013. “It means a lot to me that I am able to help people get out and do something positive,” she says. She moved here to windsurf, but then she started meeting more and more people outside of the windsurfing community. “This is a really, really supportive place and I feel really lucky people have embraced me coming here as an outsider,” she says. “This is my small way of giving back to the community.”• For more, go to thegorgeismygym.com.
Stay, Play, & Ski in Hood River County!
Spend the perfect winter vacation in spectacular Hood River County, Oregon. Enjoy: • Snow sports at Mt. Hood Meadows • Hiking, biking, stand-up paddleboarding, horseback riding, and other outdoor recreation
$99*
Receive these great Mt. Hood Meadows Lift Pass prices from November, 2013-April, 2014 when you stay with one of these participating hotels, motels, B&Bs, and vacation rentals: 3-out-of-5 Day Adult Lift Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $99* Single-day Adult Lift Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $49* Best Western Plus Hood River Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (800) 828-7873 Brookside B&B. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (541) 387-6589
• Great food, wine, and craft beers
Columbia Cliff Villas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (866) 912-8366
• Unique shopping
Cooper Spur Mountain Resort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (541) 352-6692
• Arts and culture
Gorge Central Vacation Rentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (877) 386-6109
• Relaxing in one of the most beautiful places in the world
Hood River BnB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (541) 387-2997 Hood River Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (800) 386-1859 Hood River Vacation Rentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (877) 260-2519 Inn of the White Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (800) 972-5226 Mt. Hood View Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (541) 490-5138 Oak Street Hotel & Vacation Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (866) 386-3845 Old Parkdale Inn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (541) 352-5551 Panorama Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (541) 387-2687 Wy’East Retreat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (503) 577-4162
istock.com
Michael Peterson
Vagabond Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (877) 386-2992 * Offer good when you stay at one of the participating lodging facilities. No black-out or restricted dates. November, 2013-April, 2014.
This offer brought to you by:
For more information visit hoodriver.org/stay-play-ski
the gorge magazine // FALL 2013 19
Top Photos: Left to Right—Michael Peterson, Adam LaPierre, Richard Hallman.
3-out-of-5 Day Adult Lift Pass
Ask for us by name!
Enjoy our coffee at many fine restaurants, bakeries and espresso bars
• Available at all grocery stores throughout the Columbia River area, including Government Camp • Online ordering at www.hoodrivercoffeeco.com (5 pounds or more/Free Shipping) Established 1990 (541) 386-3908 // hoodrivercoffeeco.com 1310 Tucker Rd, Hood River, OR 97031
• Office Coffee Service to area businesses. (Coffee equipment available)
Roasting coffee FRESH
and getting it to you FAST!
Your friendly neighborhood café…enjoy delicious, locally roasted, fair trade, organic coffee, and fresh pastries. For lunch try one of our savory paninis or wraps and a fresh organic green salad paired with a glass of local wine or a NW micro brew. Dine inside or on our private patio. (509) 281-3100 • Text order (206) 486-6080 mugsco.com • 120 W. Steuben Street • Bingen CaTering availaBle
20 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Available at
Allen’s Food Center 516 W 9th Street, The Dalles 541-969-7671 or 541-296-6123
www.hometowncoffeeroasters.com
12 Oak Street Hood River 386-4442
By JANET COOK • Photos by JEFF FOTHERGILL, MAREN McGOWAN & MICHAEL PETERSON
From bean to brew, Gorge coffee roasters are proving their prowess
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 21
22 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Of all the creation stories of coffee, my favorite is the one where an Ethiopian goatherder named Kaldi, who lived in about the 9th century or so, noticed his flock becoming frisky after eating bright red berries from a certain tree. He took some of the berries to a local monastery, but the monk in charge disapproved and threw them into the fire. The aroma rising from the burning berries brought other monks out to investigate. The berries had split, revealing a bean inside. The curious monks raked the beans from the embers, ground them up and dissolved the powder in hot water, creating the world’s first cup of coffee.
W
hether it happened just that way or not, people have been roasting coffee beans for centuries. Today, roasting green coffee is done at temperatures ranging from 460 to 530 degrees. The characteristics of the bean, the temperature and the time combine to determine how each batch comes out. In these variables lie the great variations in coffee. Attention to these details has given rise to micro-roasters, generally defined as those who produce less than 100,000 pounds of coffee annually. What it also means is that they focus intensely on creating relatively small batches of really good coffee. Which brings us to the Gorge, where several micro-roasters have emerged in recent years. All of them have an interesting “creation” story of their own, as well as a unique approach to the craft of roasting coffee.
Mark and Peggy Hudon
Hood River Coffee Co. Hood River Coffee Co. started it all back in 1990. Mark and Peggy Hudon, then recent transplants from San Francisco, started roasting for a few wholesale customers from their house on Wasco Street in Hood River. They had to reinforce the floor in their roasting room (aka the enclosed back porch) to accommodate their 1,000-pound drum roaster, and they ate their meals on a folding card table in the bagging and blending room (aka the dining room). Both initially kept their day jobs, but demand for their quality roasts grew and soon it was a full-time job for the couple. Over time, they gained some big clients—Multnomah Falls Lodge and Skamania Lodge were two early adopters—and counted many
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 23
Gorge restaurants among those brewing and selling their coffee. They kept the business in house, literally, until 2002 when they moved it into a custom-built roastery on the south end of town, where they remain. Over more than two decades, Mark has honed his roasting technique to a precise science. He uses an altimeter mounted near his roaster to help determine the air’s pressure density on any given day. “Today, the altimeter shows 300 feet,” he says during my visit. The actual elevation at his roastery is about 700 feet. Noting the nearby thermometer hovering at 19 degrees Celsius, he gets out a chart and quickly scans it. “Today our pressure density feels like 1,000 feet,” he says. Another chart tells him how many pounds of beans to load into the roaster, given the pressure density. “Today I can roast 25½ pounds, not the usual 26,” he says. “I have to lighten my load.” Still another chart specifies how many minutes to roast each type of bean given the other factors. “We roast coffee very objectively,” Mark says. This precision has come to be what Hood River Coffee Co. is known for—it’s extreme consistency over the dozens of roasts the company offers, ranging from the newer, lighter roasts that many coffee drinkers are favoring to darker roasts and even custom blends. All this scientific precision, however, is born out of artistry, trial and error and endless cupping of each roast to determine exactly how the Hudons think each one should taste. In a sign of the times, the Hudons are changing the name of the company to Hood River Coffee Roasters, more accurately reflecting what they do. The company, which roasts about 50,000 pounds of coffee a year, recently landed Insitu as a client, and has been supplying Google’s operation in The Dalles for some time. But it also sells to small customers—some who buy only a few three-quarterpound bags every month. For customers big and small throughout the Gorge, the Hudons deliver fresh roasted beans twice a week— one of Mark’s favorite jobs. “I walk in and they say, ‘It’s the coffee guy!’” he says. “They’re always happy to see me.”
Coffee Trivia: Originally, coffee was eaten by tribal people in Africa, who mixed coffee berries with fat to make energy balls.
Favorite Gorge Coffee Houses & Drive-Thrus
Hood River Dog River Coffee Co. 411 Oak Street (541) 386-4502 dogrivercoffee.net
24 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Doppio Coffee & Lounge 310 Oak Street (541) 386-3000 doppiohoodriver.com
Drifty’s Coffee Shop 108 Highway 35 (541) 436-0026 driftys.com
Dutch Bros. 1629 12th Street dutchbros.com
Ground 12 Oak Street (541) 386-4442 groundhoodriver.com
Real Estate Sales and Service
Photo: BeautifulHoodRiver.com
Brian Graves
Pacific Rim Coffee Roasters Brian Graves has been immersed in the world of coffee since he graduated from Kansas State University 20 years ago. Armed with a degree in hotel and restaurant management, he took a job with Starbucks right out of the gate. He was first hired to manage a Starbucks store in Portland, back when there were a paltry 180 Starbucks coffee shops around the country (compared with more than 12,000 today in the U.S. alone). After a couple of years, Graves moved to Starbucks’ Seattle headquarters and worked in the company’s finance and planning department. But he and his wife, a teacher, were looking
f
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Specializing in residential, vacation, commercial and investment real estate. Coffee Trivia: Coffee is the second most traded commodity in the world after oil. 10 Speed Coffee Bar 1412 12th Street (541) 386-3165 10speedcoffee.com
10 Speed Coffee Roastery 1235 State Street (541) 436-0016 10speedcoffee.com
Starbucks by Bridge 1040 E. Marina Road (541) 386-4691
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Starbucks in Safeway 2249 Cascade Avenue (541) 386-1841
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Hood River • The Dalles www.copperwest.com 14 Oak Street Hood River, OR 541-386-2330
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 25
for a slower pace. They moved to Hood River in 1996 and Graves began commuting to Portland when he took a job as sales manager for K&F Coffee Roasters, one of the area’s first micro-roasters. But commuting got old. He wanted to work where he lived, so in 1998, Graves launched Pacific Rim Coffee Roasters. “It’s funny, like anything else, you think you know a lot,” he says. “But looking back, I knew nothing.” He had a lot of “backbone” knowledge, he says, but running his own roastery had a steep learning curve. He initially set out with aims to be a large wholesaler. “But I realized, it’s not realistic to be real big and keep the quality control,” he says. He has several wholesale clients in Hood River and the Gorge—including Doppio and the Hood River Hotel—and ships beans beyond that “all over,” he says. Graves roasts on a fluid bed roaster, which uses hot air to roast and move the beans. “The beans are just floating—they’re constantly moving,” Graves says. “It accentuates the coffee’s characteristics. It doesn’t mask anything.” He likes the “clean” coffee it produces, he says. Graves roasts several single origin coffees as well as a few blends, and some organic coffees. As for the life-long (so far, at least) career he’s made of coffee? “I love coffee itself,” Graves says. “I like the social aspect of it. And I like the roasting process. It’s really fun to see the beans when they come out of the roaster each time. That doesn’t get old.”
Coffee Trivia: All coffee is grown in the “Bean Belt,” between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. It is grown in 65 countries around the world. Szeremi’s 76 Drive Thru Espresso 3450 Cascade Avenue (541) 386-5676
26 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
BINGEN Mojava Drive Thru 705 W Steuben Street (509) 493-5349 Find us on Facebook
Mugs Coffee 120 W. Steuben Street (509) 281-3100 mugsco.com
white salmon North Shore Cafe 166 E. Jewett Boulevard (509) 493-0237 Find us on Facebook
Bubba’s Brew Espresso 60 N.E. Wauna Avenue (541) 490-4145 Find us on Facebook
10 Speed Coffee “I’ve always done coffee,” says Bryan McGeeney, owner and roaster at 10 Speed Coffee in Hood River. He got his first job, as a barista, when he was 14 in his hometown of Ames, Iowa. After college, he moved to Portland—a city he’d visited a few times and liked. From there, he began spending weekends in Hood River and eventually moved to the Gorge. A bicyclist, McGeeney combined his two passions when he opened 10 Speed Coffee on the Heights in 2005. He roasted his own beans for use in his shop, and began selling them to a few wholesale customers. His wholesale business grew, and in 2012, McGeeney opened the 10 Speed Roastery on State Street—a coffee shop and roastery. He still co-owns the 10 Speed shop in the Heights with Ben Saur, who also shares roasting duties. “We don’t use any automation per
se,” McGeeney says of his roasting technique. “It’s all sensory-based—paying attention with our eyes and ears.” He seeks out single-origin beans from a variety of regions, and does little blending. “We try and find the best approach to
Bryan McGeeney
Coffee Trivia: The U.S. is the largest coffee consuming country in the world. The Dalles Grinders Coffee 502 W. 3rd Street (541) 296-3553 grindersdrive.com
Dutch Bros. 1342 W. 6th Street dutchbros.com
Holstein’s Coffee Co. 811 E. 3rd Street (541) 298-2326 Find us on Facebook
Starbucks in Safeway 520 Mt. Hood Street (541) 298-9488
starbucks.com
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 27
roasting each coffee, as opposed to using a formula for light, medium or dark,” he says. His roasting technique has served him well; he provides 3,000 pounds of roasted coffee every year to the Tour of California bicycle stage race. Last year, his presence in California grew when he partnered with some friends to open a 10 Speed coffee shop in Calabasas, Calif. In addition to shipping “a lot” of coffee to California, McGeeney has several wholesale customers in the Gorge and surrounding region. “We like the smaller grocery stores because it’s easier for us to maintain quality control,” he says. In all, he roasts about 3,000 pounds of coffee a month in his drum roaster which occupies a prominent spot in the front of his coffee shop. “I love spending time in the café, I love spending time with the customers, and I love the direct connection with the product,” McGeeney says. “Hood River is really a great place to be part of something like this.”
Coffee Trivia: The King of England banned coffee shops in 1675, paranoid that people were meeting in them to conspire against him. Starbucks in Fred Meyer 1215 W. 6th Street (541) 296-1700
starbucks.com
28 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Dufur We 3 Coffee & Deli 576 N.E. Fifth Street (541) 467-2330 Find us on Facebook
Stevenson A Boutique Café 256 SW Second Street (509) 427-2244 aboutique.us
Gotta Hava Java 371 Highway 14 (509) 427-5112 Find us on Facebook
Robbie’s Coffee House 77 S.W. Russell Avenue (509) 427-0154 Find us on Facebook
COLUMBIA GORGE REAL ESTATE
www.thedallesrealty.com Ground When Carin Agren bought Ground from its previous owners five years ago, she didn’t plan on becoming a roaster, too. But a year or so into her new business venture, she and her boyfriend were traveling north of the border, in Washington, when they stopped at a small coffee shop. “They had a little roaster there where they roasted their own beans,” Carin recalls. She checked it out and became intrigued with the idea. Within a few months, she’d retrofitted a room in the back of the coffee shop and purchased her own small fluid bed roaster capable of roasting two pounds of coffee at a time. She’s been roasting Ground’s coffee ever since, and is even
Carin Agren
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Coffee Trivia: Coffee trees can live to be 100 years old. The Cabin Drive Thru 210 Lutheran Church Road (509) 427-0095 Find us on Facebook
Whistle Stop Espresso & Deli 50341 Highway 14 (near Home Valley) (509) 427-0155 Find us on Facebook
Carson Hot Shot Espresso 1162 Wind River Road (509) 427-7084
Goldendale Simcoe Mountain Coffee Co. 320 S. Columbia Avenue (509) 250-2959
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 29
gaining a few wholesale customers. Agren always has three different roasts plus a decaf and an espresso blend on hand at Ground. “I usually have one coffee from Africa, one from Indonesia, and one from the Americas,” she says. She tends to create mostly medium roasts. “I don’t do anything super dark,” she says. “People are going for lighter roasts.” Lighter roasts have more caffeine, she notes, and better highlight the bean’s characteristics. Agren would like to get a larger roaster so she could roast for more wholesale customers. With the two-pound roaster, she can sometimes barely keep up with what she needs for the shop. “Most customers don’t know we roast our own,” she says. When they find out, some want to know if they can purchase Ground’s beans. A few tourists from outside the area have even called her after they return home asking if they can order beans for shipment. She calls buying her own roaster the best thing she's done for her business. “I’ve learned so much,” she says. “And it’s really fun.”
Coffee Trivia: Espresso has just one-third of the caffeine content of a cup of regular coffee. Little Grace Espresso 630 E. Simcoe Drive (509) 773-1987
30 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Goldendale Grind 714 E. Simcoe Drive (509) 261-1515
Trout Lake Heavenly Grounds Espresso 2374 Highway 141 (509) 395-2211 Find us on Facebook
camas Café Piccolo Paradiso
309 NE Birch Street (360) 834-7044 Find us on Facebook
Starbucks
9215 SE 34th Street (360) 253-8317 starbucks.com
Home Town coffee Roasters Tami Williamson remembers the first time she ever had “real” coffee. She was 19 and her boyfriend brought her some coffee beans, which they ground and brewed in a French press. She was blown away. “Until then, I thought you just got coffee in a can,” she says. “That was my first experience with the real thing, and I thought it was fabulous.” A native of the Northwest, she lived for a while in Seattle, immersing herself in the coffee culture there. Coffee held her interest even after she moved, and while living in several other Northwest locales, including McMinnville and Pendleton, before landing in Arlington. “I always followed what was going on in the coffee industry,” she says. She worked in the employment department for the State of Oregon, but daydreamed about becoming a coffee roaster. A couple of years ago when she sold a house she’d owned, she started thinking seriously about it. “I had some money and I figured, it’s now or never,” she said. Williamson quit her job, invested in a roaster and never looked back. She officially launched Home Town Coffee Roasters a yearand-a-half ago, and is now supplying coffee to several customers in
The Dalles, Biggs, Arlington, Heppner and Boardman. She also has retail display space at a supermarket in Hermiston. She roasts single-origin coffee and makes three custom blends in her drum roaster, tending toward lighter roasts. “You can take any bean and roast the heck out of it,” Williamson says. “But I like lighter roasts. It brings out the uniqueness of the bean.” She’s having the time of her life in her newfound career. “I just love it,” she says. “I think it’s my thing.”
Coffee Trivia: Coffee beans come from a bright red berry, which are hand-picked, soaked in water and de-shelled, revealing the green bean inside. Squeeze & Grind 537 NE Cedar Street (360) 833-2404 Find us on Facebook
washougal
Starbucks 291 C Street (360) 835-5205 starbucks.com
Starbucks 3307 Evergreen Way (360) 335-2000 starbucks.com
troutdale Celebrate Me Home
319 E. Historic Columbia River Highway (503) 618-9394 celebratemehomeonline.com
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 31
Father Michael Dunaway
Father Michael’s Roastery Father Michael Dunaway cuts an unlikely figure in his traditional black cassock and Salomon sneakers. A Greek Orthodox priest serving the nuns at St. John the Forerunner Greek Orthodox Monastery outside Goldendale, Wash., Father Michael spends his days conducting liturgies, hearing confessions—and roasting coffee. A self-proclaimed coffee fanatic, Father Michael learned how to roast coffee a few years ago and decided to pursue it as a means to provide for his family while he provides spiritual guidance to the nuns at St. John. He turned his garage into a roastery, and enlists the help of his wife, Joanna, and son, Seraphim, in the business. Father Michael produces seven different roasts, some singleorigin and some blends. Lately, he’s been developing relationships
32 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
with coffee farmers in El Salvador, so he can get coffee directly from the source. “To me, that’s a notch above fair trade,” he says. “And it’s some of our best coffee.” His coffee is available in the gift shop at St. John the Forerunner, as well as in other locations around the eastern Gorge. People can also order on his website, and judging from a map on the wall in the roastery with pushpins showing where he’s shipped his coffee, a lot of people do. “It’s in monasteries across the country,” he says. There are also pushpins in England, Ireland, China, Malaysia and Australia. Father Michael would like to grow his roastery business, but slowly. “We want to keep it artisan, keep our attention on the details,” he says. As for coffee being a vice? Father Michael smiles. “It’s a heavenly addiction,” he says. “It’s one of the good ones.”
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Dog River Coffee For the second year in a row, Nate DeVol has showed the Northwest that Dog River Coffee is among the best when it comes to quality coffee shops. DeVol and his staff claimed second place in the 2013 America’s Best Coffeehouse competition sponsored by Coffeefest Seattle, besting their third place finish last year. The competition was for coffee shops in California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho and Alaska. After pre-qualifying rounds based on secret shopper visits and fan voting, Dog River battled it out over a weekend of competition in October that judged DeVol and his staff on opening, operating and closing the mini-café built at Coffeefest for the competition, as well as on sensory criteria and the creation of a “daily special.” “That’s what showcases the creativity of each café,” DeVol said of the special coffee drink he and his baristas created for the competition. Named #delicious, the drink featured lemon and lavenderinfused simple syrup, Hairbender espresso, ice, Seltzer water, dry ice and a twist of lemon. “Every one of our staff had something to do with how that drink came together,” DeVol said. “I think we really knocked it out of the park.” The competition takes a lot of preparation and effort, DeVol said, but it provides great “takeaways” about how to improve flow and other things at Dog River Coffee. “It’s a great team-building exercise,” he said. And, it comes with perks. Dog River is one of 10 cafes around the country featured in a USA Today article about the competition, due out in January.
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McMenamins McMenamins has been roasting its own coffee in small batches to serve at all of its pubs, restaurants and hotels—including McMenamins Edgefield—since 2001. McMenamins Coffee Roasters, located in Northeast Portland, roasts more than 40,000 pounds of beans a year, in small batches for weekly delivery. The McMenamins roastmasters create single origin as well as blended coffees, which can be bought at most McMenamins locations, or online. (shopmcmenamins.com)
Proud Participants in InfantSEE & VisionUSA Public Health Programs
(541) 386-1700 • www.icfec.com • Find us on Facebook 1700 12th Street, Suite A • Hood River, Oregon Prescriptive Eyewear, Sunglasses, Contact Lenses I Pediatric Exams for Children Diabetic Eye Care I Amblyopia I Strabismus I Conjunctivitis I Dry Eye Disease I Glaucoma Hypertensive Retinopathy I Cataracts I Macular Degeneration I Spots & Floaters Treatment of Eye Diseases I Emergency Services I Surgical Co-Management
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 33
Oregon Winery of the Year
Professional bartending services for special events server wait staff, linens, glassware, tables + Chairs are available
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Enjoy wine tasting this winter‌
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34 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
gorge magazine // fall 2014 2013 35 33 thethe gorge magazine // winter
porto is one of the things that makes life worth living. And it turns out, winemakers in the Gorge are pretty good at it.
A Port in Any Storm Pairing Port-Style Wines and Cold Winter Nights By Don Campbell
Fog, like dewy gauze, drapes over the hilltop at Joel Goodwillie’s Wind River Cellars near Husum, Wash. The weight of an impending winter is starting to bring temperatures down. The sky drips. Snow is not far off. And the belly needs warming.
G
oodwillie sneaks off and thieves a taste of his Solera, a delectable port-style wine in the tawny tradition. He dribbles some into the glass. On the palette, it is nutty, slightly sweet, satisfying. The soul of this offering goes back to a barrel begun in 1997. A little bit
36 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
of that original barrel has been added to each successive bottling. It is old, wise, and very, very tasty. In the course of a couple of days, I would sample three Gorge winemakers’ port-style offerings. It’s an education, and a bit of a heady excursion through a winemaking process that dates back many centuries. This is fortified wine, a process whereby a rich fruity varietal is mixed with a fortifying agent, such as brandy, to create something so sublime as to be nearly indescribable. Post-dinner, instead of dessert, or with sharp cheese, nuts or chocolate,
Muchas Gracias Let us first pay props to Portugal, which lays claim to the invention of Vinho do Porto. The Portugese capitalized on the fact that wine goes bad when shipped for long distances, which they discovered was the case in the early 1700s, when England was deprived of French wines brought on by one of the nasty little wars that cropped up between them. Apparently, long trips to the U.K. made Portuguese wine go skunky. Hence they introduced fortification to nip that little spoilage problem and significantly improve the shelf-life for the trip. The English, rumor has it, were grateful. An industry was born. The process that has emerged from Portugal is time-tested, traditional and disciplined. Though there are a few winemakers who test limits and push boundaries, the three who talked me through the process are nearly religious in their adherence to Portuguese methods. Second, an important clarification: Just as you may not, by penalty of law, call sparkling wine not made in the Champagne region of France champagne, you may not call dessert wines not made in the Douro region of Portugal port. You may dance around those designations with clever nomenclature, but what I drank at Wind River Cellars, Jacob Williams Winery and Mt. Hood Winery was not, legally, port, but port-style dessert wines. Call them what you will, they were delicious and a stiff shot of courage against the impending season of nasty weather. A Good Find Snugged up against the eastern basalt cliffs on the Washington side of the Columbia River, Jacob Williams Winery serves up
some of the Gorge’s best wines. Winemaker John Haw, who has a handshake that could crush steel car parts, explains to me that the addition of a fortified spirit at just the right moment stops the fermentation process (hence the safe passage to England back in the day). It is, however, much more subtle and deft than simply adding cheap brandy to cheap wine. Haw cut his port-style teeth when he initiated a program at the Maryhill Winery. “I left there before I got a chance to taste it,” he says. In 2006 he custom-made a vintage for another winery client. The owner died, and the barrels sat. “I found the original barrels,” he recalls with glee. “I brokered a deal and got them back.” The result was the stunning 2006 Syrah Porto de Avery that has only recently emerged in wax-capped bottles. With 900 more gallons in barrels, there is more to come. What to Look For For Haw, and those looking to experiment with port-style dessert wines, he looks for a solid color. “You don’t want to see through it,” he says, “or see brown around the edges. And a purple color means it’s pretty young.” The nose is the dead giveaway. “You only want a whiff of alcohol. You’re looking for integration. There’s fruit on one hand and alcohol on the other. Those need to come together.” When does Haw prefer port? “Anytime!” he says, but especially on Sunday afternoons with a big fire and some bread and cheese and good dark chocolate. “It’s
More Port-Style, Gorge Style
Several wineries in the Columbia Gorge make port-style wines:
great after dinner and before bed,” he says. “You’ll sleep like a baby.” It all, he says, “Takes time spent in the bottle,” as in about the number of years it takes to get through grade school. The trick for Haw, and most port-style makers, is knowing the precise moment to add the fortification to the fermentation process. Following Tradition Joel Goodwillie has been doing port-style wines since 1997, after an auspicious pilgrimage to Porto, Portugal. Upon his return, Goodwillie realized that few winemakers in Oregon or Washington were making anything resembling port, and wanted it for his portfolio. Since Portuguese varietals aren’t grown here, generally, he used a Lemberger and created his first Port of Celilo (clever-nomenclatureto-skirt-legalities alert). As with John Haw, Goodwillie relies on using wine from his own grapes to make a high-quality brandy, which he contracts from Portland’s Clear Creek Distillery. “Better brandy, better port,” he says. Goodwillie has been known to sleep near his port-style wine barrels. “Could be the middle of the night, when it’s ready,” he says. “You might have a window of an hour, maybe two, to press off the grapes, when the sugar’s perfect, to add the brandy and shut off fermentation.” Goodwillie currently offers his very traditional Port of Celilo, made from sumptuous and peppery Lemberger grapes and the offbeat (but no less tasty) Harriet’s, made from Chardonnay grapes. Soon to
come, the aforementioned Solera. Mountain Port Steve Bickford walks me out to the vintage Formica dining table in the processing warehouse at Mt. Hood Winery. The 155acre expanse of orchards, vineyards and winery he and his brother Don own have roots going back to 1909. Winemaking entered the scene in 2000, with their first planting. Their first vintage came in 2002. The winery’s first foray into port-style dessert wines was in 2005, a venture using Pinot Noir grapes. That led to three current offerings: the 2005 Nocturne (made from Muscat Canelli white grapes), the 2005 Touriga that uses the actual Portuguese varietal, and the 2009 (wordplay nomenclature alert) Puerto Montagna. Winemaker Rich Cushman offers a dramatic display of how balanced a dessert wine should be. He takes a taste of what he calls a “raw baby port” sent to the barrel in 2013 for comparison. “I want subtleties,” Cushman says. This is rough, and has none. “You don’t want the alcohol to stick out.” This does. It clearly needs to sit. I quickly understand what balance means in a port. For a good port, says Cushman, you want “nice body, depth of flavor, and that lingering deliciousness,” which I find in the Puerto Montagna. “It simply takes patience. You invest time in it.” Port-style dessert wines are, simply, a labor of love. “We’re working with Mother Nature here,” concludes Cushman. And doing it intimately well. Let her bring on winter.
Garnier Vineyards garniervineyards.com
Maison de Glace maisondeglacewinery.com
The Pines Vineyard and Winery thepinesvineyard.com
Hood River Vineyards hoodrivervineyardsandwinery.com
Maryhill Winery maryhillwinery.com
Wind River Cellars windrivercellars.com
Jacob Williams Winery jacobwilliamswinery.com
Mt. Hood Winery mthoodwinery.com
McMenamins Edgefield mcmenamins.com/edgefield
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 37
outside For many of us who’ve had to forgo our wild winter ways zizzing down double black diamonds at breakneck speeds, but who don’t want to lose touch with the outdoors this time of year, clambering over snow-covered hills and trails atop these contraptions has opened up a new world of enjoyment. For the beginners among you, you can rent snowshoes from a reputable outdoor store. They can help you get the proper fit, style and size, and even give you a few pointers along the way. If you like it, you can purchase your own pair later. One quick piece of etiquette: Avoid trekking through cross-country ski tracks. Skinny-skiers hate that. And remember: It’s winter out there and gets dark by 4 p.m. Conditions can change quickly. Layer up, take extra outer shells, gloves and socks. Drink plenty of water and eat highcalorie snacks. Wear sunglasses and sunscreen. Know your physical limits. Plan your trip. Don’t travel alone. And don’t ignore the warning signs of hypothermia.
Making Tracks in Winter’s Snowy Wonderland
If you’re ready to hit it, here are three options for some Gorge winter fun, all within an easy drive. Cooper Spur Mountain Resort For those who want to test the snowshoe waters, just 23 miles from Hood River, off Highway 35, Cooper Spur Mountain Resort offers its own Nordic Center with affordable snowshoe rent-
Snowshoeing offers a fun and easy way to enjoy the season
als for adults and juniors and the chance to trek
by don campbell // photos by blaine franger
al Forest trails.
some beautiful back-country Mt. Hood NationThe resort offers a 6.7-kilometer loop just be-
Baby Boomers of a certain age may remember
to make the trek. You may have seen a pair over
hind the resort to the north, that can ultimately
the stylish figure cut by television’s most revered
any fireplace in a rustic ski lodge.
loop you up to the Cooper Spur Ski Area, and
Canadian Mountie, Sergeant Preston of the
The modern sport of snowshoeing has come
for the adventurous, it can connect you with
Yukon. On patrol in the Great North, Preston’s
a long way. Lightweight aluminum frames and
the Polallie Ridge and Tilly Jane trails which can
horse, Rex, and his faithful dog, Yukon King, had
binding attachments, and steel toe crampons
take you all the way up to the famed Cloud Cap
little trouble navigating the perilous snows in
for digging in uphill and down would have
area. The resort has also recently added some
the hunt for nefarious criminals. Preston, more
served our dear sergeant well. The evolution
mountain bike trails that are accessible for
often than not, had to strap on two giant tennis
has put the sport in reach for all age groups. If
snowshoers.
rackets of bent wood and laced beaver sinew
you can walk, you can snowshoe.
38 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
“I’ve snowshoed up there,” says Cooper Spur
COLUMBIA GORGE live where you play!
For many of us who've had to forgo our wild winter ways of zizzing down double black diamonds at breakneck speeds, but who don't want to lose touch with the outdoors this time of year, clambering over snow-covered hills and trails atop these contraptions has opened up a new world of enjoyment. general manager Cynthia Steele, of the trip
REID MARTIN
to Cloud Cap. “It’s beautiful.” Trekkers will hike
Because home matters.
through heavy forest and open space, with
503-704-7343
views on a good day of Mount Hood, Mount
w w w. g o r g e v e n t u r e . c o m reid@windermere.com
Adams, Mount Rainier and down into the rugged Polallie Creek drainage. “All of a sudden, Mount Hood comes into view,” she says
pack in everything else—including a warm
with a wistful sigh.
sleeping bag, as the cabin’s upper floor can
If done correctly, all trails lead back to Coo-
get cold at night.
per Spur’s new Crooked Tree Tavern. For those seeking an extended adventure,
Gifford Pinchot National Forest
head up the 2.9-mile Tilly Jane Ski Trail for
For those looking for the road less traveled,
an overnight at the historic Tilly Jane cabin.
Mount Adams, across the Columbia River
Built in 1939, the cabin offers rustic but cozy
from Hood River some 25 miles away near
accommodations for up to 20 people. Fire-
the town of Trout Lake, offers some easily ac-
wood and pots for melting snow and boil-
cessible snowshoeing and cross-country ski
ing water are available, but trekkers need to
trails and far less road congestion than the
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 39
outside For those seeking an extended adventure, head up the 2.9-mile Tilly Jane Ski Trail for an overnight at the historic Tilly Jane Cabin. Built in 1939, the cabin offers rustic but cozy accommodations for up to 20 people. Firewood and pots for melting snow and boiling water are available, but trekkers need to pack in everything else. highways around Mount Hood. Within the Gifford Pinchot National For-
Resources » cooper spur mountain resort Equipment rentals and trails 10755 Cooper Spur Road Mt. Hood, OR (541) 352-6692 cooperspur.com
est, Mount Adams offers three areas: Atkisson
Stop at the Trout Lake Ranger Station in Trout Lake for maps and advice. Ranger Crystal and the other staff will treat you well.
SnoPark, the Old Man Pass Ski Trails, accessible from the Koshko SnoPark, and the Eastside Ski
To the Hut!
Trails at the SnowKing SnoPark. Parking permits
Ten years ago, Don Bain and some high school
are required beginning December 1.
buddies took a trip to Colorado. He brought
Atkisson, at roughly 3,000 feet of elevation,
back more than memories.
provides an easy 4.1-mile round-trip loop that
While in the Rockies, Bain and company did
accesses the Trout Lake Ice Caves. More difficult
» hood river ranger district Snow passes and information 6780 Highway 35 Parkdale, OR (541) 352-6002 fs.usda.gov/detail/mthood
a hut trip: trekking by mountain bike to a desti-
is the Peterson Ridge Trail at 10.6 miles round-
nation hut that was equipped with heat, lights,
trip, but there are chances to see elk, Mount
beds and kitchenware. When he returned, he
Adams and Mount Hood.
discovered that Oregon, and Mount Hood in
» mt. adams ranger district Snow passes and information 2455 Washington 141 Trout Lake, WA (509) 395-3400 fs.usda.gov/giffordpinchot
for beginners), up to the truly difficult 1.7-mile
» cascade huts Six destination huts (503) 564-8116 cascadehuts.com » tilly jane cabin Cabin and day shelter (541) 352-6002 recreation.gov/camping » doug’s sports Snowshoe, pole rental and advice 101 Oak Street Hood River, OR (541) 386-5787 dougshoodriver.com » 2nd wind sports Snowshoe, pole rental and advice 210 Oak Street Hood River, OR (541) 386-4464 2ndwind-sports.com
40 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Old Man combines some groomed and ungroomed trails, with an easy one-mile trek (good OK Loop that’s entirely ungroomed.
particular, had nothing similar available. He came home with a great idea. The epiphany helped launch Cascade Huts, the eight-year-old company he founded with
There are seven accessible loops within the
business partner James Koski that now offers
Eastside Trails area, from the easiest Princess
six destination huts around the Mount Hood
Loop at one mile and the Big Tree Loop at 5.1
area. Three are dedicated to summer mountain
miles, to the difficult Pipeline Loop often filled
biking, and three are set up for winter trekking.
with deep ungroomed snow.
On the southeast side of Hood is the White
River Hut, a nearly 260-square foot hut that sleeps eight. It’s accessible by trekking down the historic Barlow Road from the Barlow Pass SnoPark. For the more experienced among you (and that means knowledge of maps, compasses and GPS) you can navigate from the White River West SnoPark down the White River Valley. With a nearby creek and old-growth forest, the hut is a great 6.5-mile destination trek. The Barlow Butte Hut, at just over 4,000 feet elevation and 160 square feet of space
huts set up. But the process was well worth it.
that sleeps five, is the easiest and short-
“There’s an abundance of wildlife,” Bain says.
est trek. Weather permitting, you can catch
“I’ve seen bear, two mid-sized cougars, and
views of Mount Hood and the valley.
of course elk herds, deer, grouse and wild
The Barlow Ridge Hut is at 4,500 feet and
turkeys.”
sleeps five. It’s accessible via the Barlow
Bain urges trekkers to start slow and allow
Ridge Road, and affords jaw-dropping views
plenty of time to get to your destination. He
of Mount Hood and the White River valley.
highly recommends acquiring a GPS unit
All the huts provide bunks with sleeping
and learning how to use it. “Just remember
bags and pads, an outhouse, propane heat
where you are,” he says. “We’ve seen the huts
and lights, a few useful tools like shovels, and
totally covered in snow. Know your snow
full kitchen gear. All you bring is the food and
conditions.”
the fun. Bain and Koski had an arduous task working with the U.S. Forest Service to get their
Many people book weekends based on full moons, for obvious reasons. And feel free, he says, to bring your dog.❉
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 41
arts + culture
Dancing Isn’t Just for Stars
The Secret Salsa Society takes Gorge dance floors by storm by don campbell // photos adam lapierre
On a dance floor, I am two left feet in oversized clown shoes, with gum stuck to the bottom of one. At least that’s how it feels. As a musician, I have spent considerably more time on bandstands than on dance floors. Much to my wife’s disappointment, I have yet to learn the rudiments of even basic dance steps. This occurs to me as Lynn Mason finds the beat of a peppery salsa tune that fills the Mt. Adams Grange Hall on a fairly typical Wednesday night, letting it carry her and her partner effortlessly into salsa heaven. They embody the very groove of the Latin song, dancing soulfully, joyfully, to this ancient beat, working beautifully and lyrically together to capture its essence in eloquent dance moves.
42 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
The Secret Salsa Society was founded 10 years ago in Bingen businesswoman Nancy White's office space. It started with two couples who loved the music and the dance, and quickly spread. Mason is an active volunteer in the Gorge’s
There’s a nominal sliding scale donation on
Secret Salsa Society, a loose, no-formal-mem-
Wednesdays “to keep the doors open and the
bership social group that convenes solely to
lights on” in the grange hall, Mason says. Several
practice salsa dancing, along with its cousins
attendees bring noshes and treats, giving the
cumbia, bachata, cha cha and merengue. The
weekly event a potluck-social feel. Attendance
group, which numbers perhaps near 100—give
ranges anywhere from 15 to 50 on any given
or take—has found a perfect antidote to the
Wednesday. There’s a half hour of instruction by
onset of winter and its dark days, cold nights
a rotating cadre of instructors, then it’s dance
and lack of things to do. With a standing social
time. On this Wednesday DJ Diablo, aka Ubaldo
dance and instruction night every Wednesday
Hernandez, spins a mix of old-school and con-
on the hill in White Salmon, a monthly second-
temporary Latin music. It’s a heady, rhythmic
Friday dance with visiting deejays, and several
rush of brass, complex, insistent and hypnotic
special-occasion events throughout the year
percussion, bass and vocals.
at The Dalles Civic Auditorium with its float-
For Mason, who’s originally from Vancouver,
ing dance floor (which occasionally feature live
B.C., and who has danced all her life, the draw
music), Secret Salsa is splintering up area dance
was organic. “I heard the music,” she says. “The
floors with a passion that you don’t find with
rhythms are complex and that’s what drew me
American popular music.
to it. I just love the music.”
Founded nearly 10 years ago in Bingen busi-
Lettie (who declined to give a last name) is a
nesswoman Nancy White’s office space, the
bundle of enthusiasm as she straps on dancing
group meets religiously every week—“unless
shoes. Salsa dancing, for her, “is like sunshine”
there’s an ice storm,” says Mason. It started with
she says. “It could be cold and rainy outside, but
two couples who loved the music and the
not in here!”
dance, and quickly spread. It was, in its begin-
And perhaps the most telling side of this
ning stages, by invitation only, hence the “se-
group is the total acceptance of everyone who
cret society” moniker.
shows up. “People will dance with you here,”
“It was a place to dance salsa and other Latin dances,” Mason says. “But we quickly outgrew that space, got more organized, and formed a committee.”
says Billie Davis Shank, “even if you suck. People are really nice to beginners.” Truth be told, it is easy to suck. While the music is amazingly infectious and instantly at-
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 43
arts + culture
trumpet and trombone parts, and mesmerizing lyrics. That’s salsa, if oversimplified. And we haven’t even spoken of cumbia, bachata, cha cha, or merengue! It can be difficult for the beginner to even find the correct beat on which to begin, and that comes with practice. Beginners are encouraged to learn what are called shines, or footwork patterns done solo. Some are simple, some not so much. But apparently even two left feet in gummed-up clown shoes can learn to count the salsa beat and find a pattern or two that work. For Ubalto Hernandez, finding the Secret Salsa Society has given him a chance to reconnect with his heritage and share it with the Gorge community. Hernandez grew up in Mexico City and has spent the past 18 years in White Salmon. “I like the rhythm,” he says, “and the connection to my Latin American culture. These are the rhythms of the Caribbean. They became staples for Latinos. It’s nice to dance to and be happy.” The group, he says, is evolving. “We invite everybody in the community,” he says. The age range and cultural mix are testament to that. Teens have a safe and accepting place to learn these dances, he says. “All ages can share a
Perhaps the most telling side of the group is the total acceptance of everyone who shows up. “People will dance with you here,” says Billie Davis Shank, “even if you suck. People are really nice to beginners.”
beautiful night,” he says. “This fulfills what we’re trying to do.” Levi Beckman tells me as we watch the dancing on the floor that it was Secret Salsa that provided something that had been missing for
tractive, its component polyrhythms are lay-
keeps a simple beat that, if you know anything
him and his wife, Alicia. “This is something we
ered in complexity and can confuse even the
about rhythm at all, falls during a typical eight-
could do together,” he says. “The atmosphere is
math majors among us. In a nutshell, these are
bar measure on the downbeats of 2, 3 and 8,
very inviting. There’s no pretense. It’s a unique
ancient beats transported from Africa to the
and on the upbeats of 5 and 6.
opportunity to create a moment, to make your
Caribbean. This music, melodic as it is, is more
Having said that, this beat pattern (and there
about the rhythm than the melody. In basic
are four clave beats in salsa) is often merely im-
salsa, the clave rhythm (often played on the
plied in the music, and not played directly. To
percussion instrument of the same name—the
add some confusion, the tumbao rhythm, of-
two heavy sticks that are struck together creat-
ten played on the conga, is a series of up-beats
ing a heavy “click” sound—but also played on
that give salsa its rambunctious syncopation,
a variety of common salsa-band instruments)
along with off-beat loping bass lines, punchy
partner feel cherished. It’s a blessing you can give someone.”
For more information, go to secretsalsasociety.weebly.com.
44 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Or to put it another way: ¡Vaya a bailar!❉
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 45
marketpl ace: ho od river heights
Shop in the Gorge and support local businesses… good news gardening
WAAAM museum
The Garden Cafe...serving delicious homemade soup served with homemade cornbread or biscuits.
Visit the Western Antique Aeroplane & Automobile Museum (WAAAM) and see one of the largest collections of still flying antique airplanes, and still driving antique vehicles in the country…there is something for everyone to enjoy. See living transportation history at its best, learn about and be intrigued by over 300 cars, planes, motorcycles, military vehicles, and more. Open daily from 9am-5pm, located on the Hood River Airport.
Salads • Sandwiches & Paninis Espresso Drinks • Fresh Baked Goodies Visit our website for daily menus. Lunch served from 11am-3pm. Breakfast served daily at 7am. 1086 Tucker Road goodnewsgardening.com
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At Rosauers Supermarket you will find: a floral, deli, bakery, and meat department as well as Huckleberry's Natural Foods section. We offer you one-stop shopping for a broad array of natural and organic products that are viable and wonderful alternatives to the conventional supermarket world. We bake everything from scratch using only the finest, fresh ingredients… let us help you create the perfect wedding or special event cake!
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WINTER 2014 thegorgemagazine.com
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making traCks
snowshoe Here, now
port-style wine
it's what’s for Dessert
your business here Want an affordable and easy way to let readers know where to shop in the Hood River area? Contact us to find out how you can get an ad in the marketplace section. The Gorge Magazine is a quarterly publication that can be found in print or in a digital format online. Micki Chapman, advertising director (541) 380-0971 • thegorgemagazine.com
a complete guide to
weddings
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the tilly Jane Cabin on mount Hood
46 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 47
wellness gestive tract. It varies in severity but generally causes abdominal pain and cramping, diarrhea and other related symptoms—and can even lead to malnutrition. Matson, who lives in White Salmon, was diagnosed at age 19 during her sophomore year in college. The cause of Crohn’s—named after the gastroenterologist who first described the disease in 1932—isn’t known but the disease seems to have a genetic component and Matson’s father, a trial lawyer living in Atlanta, also has Crohn’s. After her diagnosis, Matson was put on a high dose of Prednisone combined with another potent drug that ended up causing a severe allergic reaction. Doctors tried various drug cocktails to curtail her symptoms—including several immunosuppressant drugs, as Crohn’s is an auto-immune disease whereby the body’s immune system mistakenly attacks healthy tissue. Despite the drugs, Matson usually felt sick. She frequently had severe cramps, abdominal pain, nausea, depression and was often malnourished. Doctors told her that she would have to live with the disease for the rest of her life. “I felt like I was dying,” she says. She recalls the years from 1998-2004 as her sickest years. None of the drugs seemed to work so she underwent chemotherapy treatment for
A Journey from Patient to Healer By changing her lifestyle, Jo Matson was able to leave her suffering from Crohn’s disease behind
ing and again in The Dalles when she moved to the Gorge in 2002. “ I realized how sick I really was when I would sit in the cancer ward with so many other suffering people,” Matson says. “My chemo treatments were a constant reminder that my body was weak, and I felt like I was losing my mind.” In January of 2004, Matson’s pain became so intense that her doctor at OHSU recom-
by ruth berkowitz // photos by tim doty
mended immediate surgery to remove part of
Jo Matson remembers the day she picked up
quit, that she was cutting her pharmaceutical
her $2,000 bottle of Zofran pills prescribed to
umbilical cord.
treat nausea related to Crohn’s disease and said,
It had been 13 years since Matson was di-
“Enough is enough!” It was August 15, 2004.
agnosed with Crohn’s, a serious disease that
That was the day she told her doctor that she
causes inflammation of the lining of the di-
48 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
five years, first in Kentucky where she was liv-
her small intestine. However, because she had taken such high levels of immunosuppressant drugs, she would need to wait a few months for her immune system to strengthen. She looked forward to surgery because she hoped it would begin the process of healing and end her pain.
ClassiCal Chinese MediCine GonGfu, ayurveda, yoGa
"I realized how sick I really was when I would sit in the cancer ward with so many other suffering people," says Matson, who underwent chemotherapy for five years in an attempt to treat her symptoms of Crohn's disease. "My chemo treatments were a constant reminder that my body was weak, and I felt like I was losing my mind." On March 11, 2004, surgeons removed the
So she turned to alternative medicine. She
diseased section of her small intestine, a
had seen a Chinese acupuncturist in Port-
small part of her colon and her appendix.
land and had practiced yoga for many years.
Unfortunately, this wasn’t the end of the
Now, she felt it was time to exclusively follow
drugs. Matson needed another powerful
the protocol of Eastern medicine. She decid-
chemo drug, Methotrexate, to prevent a
ed to take her yoga practice to a higher level
resurgence of the disease. “As I injected the
by becoming a certified Raja yoga teacher.
bright yellow liquid into my belly, I started
Then in 2007, while living in San Diego,
wondering whether this would ever end,”
Matson met several renowned doctors of
Matson recalls. “I took one shot and it looked
Ayurvedic medicine, including Dr. Depak
radioactive and made me feel even more
Chopra, founder of the American Associa-
sick. I went from having a positive outlook on
tion of Ayurvedic Medicine. Ayurveda liter-
my health to lying in bed for days between
ally means “wisdom of life” and the practice,
treatments with extreme nausea, vertigo and
founded in India thousands of years ago, is
migraines.”
one of the world’s oldest holistic healthcare
To counteract the side effects, her doc-
systems. Based on the belief that health and
tor put her on Zofran. (Fortunately, the
wellness depend on a balance between en-
$2,000-per-bottle drug was covered by
vironment, mind, body and spirit, and how
health insurance.) But Matson was fed up. “I
they relate to each person’s individual con-
couldn’t keep doing this,” she says. “I had tried
stitution, Ayurveda provides guidelines for
Western medicine for 13 years and I knew I
one’s diet, lifestyle and behavior.
needed a radically different approach.”
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Through Ayurvedic medicine, Matson
f u l l s er v i c e w a x i ng sp e c i a l o c c a si on m a ke - up brow & l a sh t i nt i ng l a sh ex tensi ons
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 49
wellness and does a self massage with oil to stimulate her blood flow. She drinks warm water with lemon to drain the toxins from her body. She uses a tongue scraper to cleanse and stimulate digestion and she has a daily practice of yoga and gratitude. Matson, now 42, is completely free of any symptoms associated with Crohn’s disease. She recently teamed up with Dave Martin, a board certified herbalist and licensed acupuncturist, to expand the offerings at Trinity Natural Medicine, a healing center with a new office in Hood River. Patients come to the center for a variety alternative modalities ranging from Chinese herbal medicine and acupuncture to Matson’s Ayurvedic counseling and treatments, along with meditation, Reiki and yoga. “During the worst of my disease, I couldn’t do a downward facing dog because of my body’s inherent weakness,” she says. Today, she not only practices Hatha yoga, but also teaches yoga. Tossing ginger and turmeric into a stir-fry one recent day, Matson shared some of the nutritional lessons she’s learned on her journey. “Did you know mung bean sprouts with basmati rice is extremely easy to digest?” she asks. “Certain spices, like fennel, cumin and turmeric, help stimulate digestion.” Fresh ginger, she adds, is extremely effective for stoking the body’s internal digestive fire, or agni. “So much of our ability to heal is connected to food as medicine,” Matson says. In her Hood River office, Tibetan flags, canlearned that of the three fundamental energies,
“There is no exact answer as to what each per-
or “doshas”—vata (wind), pitta (fire) and kapha
son needs to eat,” she says. “You have to pay at-
(earth)—her most dominant one is vata. She
tention to how you feel and how it affects you.”
explains how each dosha controls a different
As Matson practiced yoga daily and adjusted
body function and how your chance of getting
her diet, she looked and felt better. She felt so
sick increases when your doshas are out of bal-
strongly that the Ayurvedic approach to her
ance. Matson looked closely at her diet and ex-
health was working that she became a certi-
perimented with eating different kinds of food.
fied Ayurvedic Wellness Counselor. Following
She learned that her body digests cooked food
the Ayurvedic principle of dinacharya, or daily
better than raw food. In Ayurvedic medicine,
routine, every morning she wakes up at 6 a.m.
dles and incense bring calmness to the space. Yoga mats, meditation cushions and Eastern medicine books fill the room. Clients come not for prescription drugs, but massage oils, digestive teas, spice blends and herbs. It’s a world away from the medical offices where she spent so much time in her past life with Crohn’s. It’s been a journey, but one that’s taken her from patient to healer, and she wouldn’t have it any other way.❉
For more information, go to joannematsonyoga.com and trinitynaturalmedicine.org.
50 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
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business profile
Josh Epstein performs topographic surveying on Colorado’s White River.
Working to Restore the Flow Hood River’s boutique engineering firm, Inter-Fluve, keeps waterways healthy around the country and beyond by matt werbach
Amid the instantly recognizable companies on the Hood River waterfront like Dakine, Tofurky and Pfriem, a quieter, but no less impressive, business has found a fitting new home here. Inter-Fluve is an engineering firm that has done no less than pioneer the field of aquatic ecosystem restoration, working to restore waterways and enhance riparian habitats across the United States and on four continents over the past 30 years.
52 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Former dam site on Trout Creek, Wash.
A helicopter transports wood with root balls to be used as fish shelter at the Horsetail Creek Floodplain Restoration, just south of Rooster Rock State Park.
From the north-facing windows of the
and independent, yet Koonce has found a
brand new building Inter-Fluve occupies,
way to encourage frequent, open, unstruc-
Greg Koonce, the founding principal of the
tured—and successful—teamwork.
company, can watch the great river in its
Inter-Fluve was born in 1983 in Colorado.
ceaseless push west. He can see the cleave
Koonce and the other founders were work-
east of Underwood where the river he
ing with real estate companies and devel-
worked with many others to help free, the
opers to create blue ribbon trout streams in
White Salmon, meets the Columbia. He can
the new housing developments that were
count the small fishing boats gathered at the
replacing run-down ranches and farms.
confluence. It’s a fitting view for a fisherman
“There was a lot of national interest in fly-
and scientist who has dedicated his profes-
fishing,” Koonce said of the time. That interest
sional life to restoring streams and rivers
translated into recreational potential and in-
around the world.
creased property values for homes abutting
Koonce can see the results of his labor
streams. For decades before, agricultural in-
inside as well. The space was designed with
terests had led to the degradation of streams
Inter-Fluve’s unique operations, objectives
throughout the Rockies. Koonce used his
and personalities in mind. Open-door offices
expertise in fisheries, biology, and hydrol-
surround large meeting areas where engi-
ogy to find workable, sustainable solutions
neers, hydrologists, botanists, and landscape
in these communities. Ultimately, by return-
architects gather to find cures for the ails
ing rivers and streams to their original state,
of America’s riparian system. Schedules are
Inter-Fluve created drainage and watershed
hand-scrawled on employees’ fogged glass
solutions while fostering fish-friendly envi-
windows. Dry-erase paint on walls lends to
ronments.
creative collaboration during meetings. The
In 1988, Koonce moved Inter-Fluve’s head-
peer-to-peer structure of the company is vis-
quarters to Hood River. At that time, the com-
ible; it is literally written on the walls. Inter-
pany had three employees. “The people who
Fluve’s employees are intelligent, disciplined
worked here wanted to live here,” Koonce
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 53
business profile with 1,200 river restorations and more than 70 dam removals on its resume was the timeliness of America’s slowly growing environmental concerns. “In the early ‘90s, things changed,” Koonce said. The City of Portland was struggling to sustain a healthy salmon population while managing water runoff and drainage issues. Inter-Fluve’s proximity to Portland, combined with its decade-old track record in restoring and creating healthy rivers, positioned the company perfectly. While the need for sustainable water systems was driving business in progressive cities nationwide, the dams that once supported the factories dotting the East Coast were no longer in use. It all meant a lot of work for the InterFluve teams restoring and managing water systems around the country. Koonce and his fellow Inter-Fluve-ians still find themselves in the middle of this interesting work, rather than out in front of it. There was no blueprint for bringing trout back to Colorado Inter-Fluve’s office, which features natural wood and river rock, was designed to enhance collaboration among staff.
ranch land, or for restoring a river after removing a dam that once powered a Massachusetts
said of the move. Portland seemed like a good
also maintains offices in Bozeman, Mont., Cam-
textile plant. The company has always had to
large city to be near, given its many waterways
bridge, Mass., and Madison, Wis.
find solutions on the fly. It has had to invent
and environmentally progressive mores. In the
The twist of fate that helped take Inter-Fluve
the methods and technologies that make its
25 years since then, Inter-Fluve’s Hood River of-
from an esoteric company working to create
work possible. Through it all, the company has
fice has grown to 23 employees; the company
trout streams in the Rockies to a company
remained true to its core values when it comes
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54 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
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Inter-Fluve still finds itself in the middle of this interesting work, rather than out in front of it. The company has always had to find solutions on the fly. It has had to invent the methods and technologies that make its work possible.
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to the environment. “It’s not about money,” Koonce said. “It’s about what’s right.” Getting to what’s right takes a balanced team effort, with input from a variety of scientists with varying expertise. The end result is greater than the sum of its parts. “We’re very interdisciplinary,” said Gardner Johnston, a watershed hydrologist who’s been with the company since 2005. Koonce said that he has worked to create an environment where a new employee on day one has as much voice as the seasoned veteran of 15 years. It’s the way the company started, and it’s the way he believes it best operates. “We’re pretty flat,” Johnston said of the company’s structure. “There is a lot of freedom. In some ways, we act like a group of independent scientists that are housed in the same office and can collaborate together on projects.” In one of the conference rooms, Koonce flips on the lights to re-
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veal the manifestation of Inter-Fluve’s collaborative structure. Photos and maps lie on the large table. On the walls, a dozen hands have scribbled a few dozen ideas in dry-erase marker. Questions and concerns regarding the restoration of one of America’s rivers have been posed, and while none of the handwritten ideas peppering the walls answers the problems in whole, the sum of the many expert ideas will lead to another healthy, restored river.❉
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Team Inter-Fluve. Seated from left are principals David Reeves, Greg Koonce and Jonathon Kusa.
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 55
our gorge wedding style
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56 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Gray Cable Tuxedo Rental ($125), Pocket Square Rental ($5) Comes with vest, tie or bowtie in assorted colors The Dalles Wedding Place: 316 E. 2nd Street, The Dalles, Find us on Facebook
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 57
home + garden "I'm so left-brained it's ridiculous," says Rick Pauly, who's become so busy with Stave Designs that he's considering hiring an assistant to help prep staves. "I see something and then I think, 'I can do that, only I'll do it my way.'" “I’m constantly generating ideas. I have notepads all over to jot them down.” There are more than 100 items on his sale list this year, and he estimates he’s made more than 250 pieces in the last couple of years. Every one of them is dreamed up, designed and hand-made by him. Pauly is a sort of accidental artisan, having arrived here by way of a very different career, in what seems like a different lifetime. After graduating from the University of Colorado with a degree in finance in the late 1990s, he went to work for Charles Schwab in Denver as a broker. He lost his job during a massive company-wide layoff just before Sept. 11, 2001, then worked for a time in the mortgage business. Pauly began feeling the pull West, so he headed to Portland, landing a job with corporate giant Aon selling property and casualty insurance. “I had a corner office, wore my Armani suits and had a corporate American Express
Wine Barrel Metamorphosis Artisan Rick Pauly gets creative with Stave Designs by janet cook // photos by jennifer gulizia
card,” he says. He racked up frequent-flyer miles, logging more than 100,000 air miles a year zigzagging across the country trying to close deals. But he always had a nagging feeling that this wasn’t the life he wanted. Finally, after a couple of years, he admitted that he wasn’t happy. “It just wasn’t my cup of tea,” Pauly says. His brother had moved to Hood River a few years earlier, and Pauly had been escaping to the Gorge on weekends for some time. In the spring of 2006 he quit his job, bought a work
To walk through Rick Pauly’s house in White
planters—even a fire pit with a table attached.
trailer, and moved to Hood River to work as a
Salmon and into his adjacent workshop is to
The sheer variety of items he makes belies their
landscaper. He had plenty of work from spring
take a tour through a gallery of his projects from
single source: reclaimed wine barrels.
through fall, but things slowed down in the
the past four years. There are candleholders and
“I don’t sleep much,” says Pauly, whose busi-
winter. He found other jobs to fill the gap,
benches, wine racks, tables and chairs, bread
ness is called Stave Designs, after the curved
eventually working as the operations manager
bowls, coat racks, ice chests, porch swings,
vertical strips of wood that make up a barrel.
at the Columbia Gorge Hotel after it was pur-
58 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
chased and re-opened in 2009 following a nearly yearlong closure. Around the same time, a friend of Pauly’s was dismantling a couple of old whiskey barrels. Pauly asked if he could have a few of the staves. With them, he crafted some tea light holders, most of which he gave to family and
Carol@DonNunamaker.com RealEstateinTheGorge.com HoodRiverProperties.com
friends. The gift shop at the Columbia Gorge Hotel was empty, so Pauly offered to help stock it with his candleholders and a few other small items he’d begun making with wine barrel staves. His products were soon selling as quickly as he could restock them. Pauly had never considered himself an artisan, although he always liked woodworking. But crafting objects from reclaimed wine barrels appealed to his analytical side, and
the Arts in Hood River as part of its exhibit
the more things he made, the more things
entitled “The Crush: A Celebration of Colum-
he thought of to make. As sales of his one-of-
bia Gorge Wines and Fine Art.”
a-kind products increased, he began taking
Pauly has become so busy with Stave De-
it more seriously. Two years ago he attended
signs that he’s considering hiring an assistant
his first show with Stave Designs, an arts fes-
to help prep staves. Because of their curved
tival in Lake Oswego. Since then, he’s done
shape, each stave must be sanded by hand.
several shows — including the popular sum-
He’ll still do the rest of the work himself. “I’m
mertime Art & Wine Fusion in White Salmon.
so left-brained it’s ridiculous,” Pauly says. “I see
His products also are on display at wineries
something and then think, ‘I can do that, only
in the Gorge and in Portland, and this fall he
I’ll do it my way.’”
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When he dismantles a wine barrel and
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 59
home + garden
"I try to develop relationships with the local winery owners," says Pauly, who gets most of his barrels from Gorge wineries, and some from Portland. The barrels he gets are anywhere from three to nine years old, and each has its own markings and characteristics from the barrel-making process as well as from its years of aging wine. begins working with the curved staves, which
Occasionally, Pauly stumbles on a new design
stores in Portland—Hippo Hardware being a fa-
all differ in size, it requires logic and calculation
by mistake. He created his multi-tier planter box
vorite. “Almost everything I get is reclaimed and
to design and then assemble them into some-
after a barrel he was working on for something
re-used,” Pauly says.
thing else. His wine racks, which are among his
else caved in. “I thought, ‘What can I do with this
There’s a certain symmetry to Stave Designs
best sellers, are made with dozens of staves of
now?’” he says. He donated the first one to the
that counterbalances the inherent irregularity
different lengths—more than 50 in his 47-bot-
Hood River Hotel and has made several more.
of Pauly’s products. Making wine after all, is all
tle rack. Each piece has to be cut and finished
Pauly gets most of his barrels from Gorge
about the process of taking one product and
to fit precisely with the curve of the adjoining
wineries, and some from Portland. “ I try to de-
turning it into another, just as Pauly is doing
pieces. “No two items are ever the same,” Pauly
velop relationships with the local winery own-
with the wine barrels themselves. But whether
says. “Even two bar stools designed to go to-
ers,” he says. The barrels he gets are anywhere
or not there’s any logic to it doesn’t really matter
gether.” Along with the variations in staves, each
from three to nine years old. He crafts most of
to Pauly. He seems content in this life. “It’s fun to
barrel has its own markings and characteristics
his products using only the wood and steel
share what you do, and gratifying to see that
from the barrel-making process as well as from
from the original wine barrel. When he does
the things you make are liked and being used.”
its years of aging wine that become part of the
need extra hardware, he sources items from the
Pauly says. “I traded my Armani suits for Carharts
finished piece.
Gorge Rebuild-It Center, or from used hardware
and I’m not trading back.”❉
For more information, go to stavedesigns.com
60 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
rene w a b l e e n e rg y s y s te m s, weather ization + h o m e p e r fo r m a n c e resid e nt i a l + co m m e rc i a l
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 61
A photo essay by Richard Hallman
“Images like this are full reruns of priceless ‘epic’ days. There are hundreds of images that could have fit this spot, but none work quite as well as watching Rachelle McEwen slice a line off the summit of Mount Hood into the clouds below.”
62 the gorge magazine // winter fall 20132014
Snow: that magical random mix of ice crystals high in the atmosphere. They clump together and their accumulated weight starts them on a gravitational crash course with, well, with any luck, you. Snow is one of the crazier phenomena on this planet. I smile when I see the first snow fly for the new season, even though it means the days are short and the nights are cold. I smile because I know our landscape, our canvas, is about to be completely transformed. Snow gets into, onto, and in between everything. We say it “blankets” all. When it does, it dampens sound, making even a busy city seem eerily quiet. It has no real discerning taste—unless it’s yellow of course, in which case it should be summarily avoided. It has a unique feel as it melts in your hand. On those days when there is little wind and the snowflakes are big, you can examine a few of the infinite shapes and sizes. Like tiny architects have been building the tiniest cathedrals, at 0 degrees Celsius. Growing up in the Midwest I didn’t have any mountains surrounding me, but we had plenty of snow in the winter. After college, I expanded my snow world to the mountains of Colorado. Then, about 20 years ago, I drove around a curve on I-84 and saw Mount Hood for the first time. I haven’t looked back. Snow has been such a great friend to me over the years despite almost taking my life a couple of times. In the end, it’s an easier thing to experience than it is to describe. So get out, enjoy, and let it snow, let it snow, let it snow…
thethe gorge magazine // winter gorge magazine // fall 2014 2013 63
Mark Cartier/Mount Hood, OR
Matthias Giraud/Mount Hood, OR
Erik Boomer/Outlet Falls, WA
Michael Ellingson/Mount Hood, OR
64 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
“I was already on my way down from the summit when I turned and saw this beautiful flight— so beautiful, I almost forgot to take pictures of it.”
Spence Bisley/Mount Hood, OR
Ken Lucas/Columbia River Gorge, OR
Aaron Sales/Mount Hood, OR
John Pew/Mount Hood, OR
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 65
Mount St. Helens Summit/Spirit Lake/Mount Rainier, WA
Asit Rathod/Mount Hood, OR
SW Side of Mount Hood, OR
66 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Sierra Quitiquit/Mount Hood, OR
“Spring days are usually best for getting up high on the mountain. Forrest Shearer drops a high speed line down ‘Old Climbers’ chute on the south side of Mount Hood, OR.”
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 67
Mount Hood Summit sunrise, the highest point in Oregon at 11,246 feet…“never fails to deliver.”
Tommy Ellingson/Mount Hood, OR
64 the gorge magazine // winter 68 fall 20132014
Winter Camp/Illumination Rock/ Mount Hood, OR
Jay Bowen/Mount Hood, OR
gorge magazine // fall 2014 2013 69 65 thethe gorge magazine // winter
“Long time home-grown ripper Tommy Ellingson has great vision for big beautiful lines deep into places no one would think to ski, while defying gravity in a creative way has helped define his passion in ways that are quite palpable. This was a magical day, one I know will continue to inspire us all. Be safe and enjoy the snow!�
70 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
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the gorge magazine // winter 2014 71
bounty
From Hood River, with Love The Fruit Company’s gourmet gifts of local fruit and treats bring joy on holidays and other special occasions by janet cook
At a time when many Gorge businesses hunker down for the slow season, The Fruit Company ramps up. At its headquarters in Pine Grove, five miles south of Hood River, the company’s 40 full-time employees are joined by more than 150 temporary hires who work in two daily shifts from the beginning of November until the end of the year assembling the company’s gourmet gift baskets. In addition to the multiple gift packing lines set up in the company’s warehouse, a phone bank springs up across the street in the former grange hall, where an additional 20 employees field calls on the 24-hour customer service line. In other words, it’s go-time for one of the leading gift basket companies in the nation, which assembles most of its gourmet gifts with Hood River Valley fruit as the centerpiece. “We do 50 percent of our business between November 1 and the end of the year,” said The Fruit Com-
72 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Scott Webster, on a packing line at The Fruit Company.
Celilo Restaurant and Bar
pany’s owner, Scott Webster, who prefers the company to be referred to as thefruitcompany.com. The company was launched 14 years ago by Webster and his brother, Addison (who later moved out of the state and sold his share of the business to Scott). But Webster’s roots—and that of the business—go much deeper. His grandfather, Roy Webster, moved to the Hood River Valley in 1942 and bought some prime orchard land in the rolling hills north of Odell. Roy fell in love with the Comice pear and was soon producing more Comice than any other grower in the area. “Grandpa thought there was a grand future in the Comice,” Webster said. The Comice is a finicky pear—“it’s hard to grow with a good finish,” Webster said—but it’s one of the sweetest and juiciest of pears, with an almost creamy flesh. Roy Webster was so enthusiastic about getting the Comice pear, and other Hood River Valley fruit, out into the world that he
“Grandpa thought there was a grand future in the Comice,” said Scott Webster, of the premium pear. He was soon producing more Comice pears than any other grower in the area, and today Webster Orchards continues to be one of the largest producers of Comice.
started one of the first mail-order businesses,
Good food is at the heart of any celebration. Open Daily Lunch 11:30-3, Dinner from 5pm Open Christmas Eve + New Year’s Eve
Serving
sending Webster Orchards Comice pears
That’s when Scott Webster returned home,
and other fruit around the region for $7.50
after graduating from college and work-
a bushel. Unfortunately, lack of a good ship-
ing for a few years in the software world. At
ping infrastructure, among other problems,
the time, competition from foreign fruit was
Catering
made it a tough sell. But the orchards were
hitting orchardists hard. Webster knew that
Weddings • Private parties • On/Offsite
solid and Scott Webster’s dad, Wayne, joined
simply taking over the family business and
the family business when he grew up, run-
running it as his father had wasn’t going to
ning Webster Orchards until the late 1990s.
cut it. He knew he had to come up with a
Pacific Northwest cuisine with an emphasis on locally grown products, extensive wine menu and full bar
To:
cards Celilo gift t Holiday are perfec presents!
From:
541-386-5710 16 Oak Street, Hood River, OR www.celilorestaurant.com
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 73
bounty A fruit history exhibit at The Fruit Company
way to sell his orchard fruit—or at least some
Although the company’s offerings have
of it—for a premium price. So he channeled his
steadily increased from a handful of options to
In keeping with The Fruit Company’s focus
grandfather’s mail-order idea, and brought it
dozens of categories of gifts, the focus remains
on customer service and satisfaction, Webster
into the age of value-added products and the
on fruit. The majority of it comes from Webster
and his team recently launched a redesigned
Internet.
shelves rather than only in gift baskets.
Family Orchards—which has also grown since
website aimed to make browsing and ordering
Using premium fruit from his orchards, hand-
1999 when it totaled 180 acres to its current
gift baskets online even easier. With more plac-
picked for perfection, he began packing gour-
420 acres. To help supply The Fruit Company’s
es for text—including a blog and recipes—he
met gift baskets of fruit. He added other items
gift baskets, Webster grows blueberries and
hopes the new site will continue to further the
to some baskets—hazelnuts, chocolate cov-
cherries as well as pears and apples. “We always
branding of The Fruit Company.
ered blueberries, cheese and crackers—and
source from Webster Orchards first, unless we
The Fruit Company ships its gift baskets all
presented them in beautiful gift packs. Through
can get a cleaner piece of fruit from some-
over the country, but it remains true to its roots
his website, he made the gift baskets available
where else,” Webster said.
in the Gorge community. The company do-
for two-day shipping, so the fruit would arrive fresh and ready-to-eat.
After weathering the recession—which
nates fruit that doesn’t make it into gift baskets
forced drastic layoffs and cutbacks Webster de-
to the FISH Food Bank, which serves Hood River
The first year, 1999, Webster ran the business
scribes as among the most painful things he’s
County and Mosier. In addition, the company’s
from his parents’ basement. He sold 525 gift
endured as a business owner—Webster has
“Fruit Friday,” held weekly year-round, is a day
baskets. The next year, sales increased to 1,800
changed a lot of things about the way he runs
when locals and anyone visiting the area can
gift baskets and Webster moved the business
The Fruit Company. “We’re focused on building
buy discounted fruit at the company’s ware-
into the former Diamond Fruit cold storage fa-
capital and we’re really big into diversification,”
house, as well as other gourmet food items,
cility in Pine Grove, where it remains. With the
he said. Not only has he diversified his orchards,
baskets and gift boxes. In that regard, Webster
exception of 2008, the height of the recession,
but he’s working to get some of his products—
offered a timely tip. “The best time to come,” he
sales have increased every year. “We’ll ship close
one of them a dried Comice pear covered in
said, “is right after a holiday.” Take note.❉
to 350,000 gift baskets this year,” Webster said.
chocolate—available for sale on grocery store For more information, go to thefruitcompany.com.
74 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
A subscription to the area’s premier lifestyle publication SPRING 2013 thegorgemagazine.com
SUMMER 2013 thegorgemagazine.com
Farm to table
CSas bring Food Home
Canoe journey
renewing native tradition
rIP CaSwell
Sculptor Seeks the Soul
In this issue TIlly Jane TraIl Earn your spring turns DIrT Hugger Playing in the soil with the compost kings CasCaDe loCks Explore the gems in the heart of the Gorge HuMBle rooTs Gardening gone native
Look inside for the
gorge winery+ brewery guide
Clockwise from top left: Ophelia Fury, Bad Abbott, Pinkalicious, Lady 180, Pistol Pants
a special advertising booklet
the deschutes
Fly-Fishing secrets
sunshine mill
more than a Winery
AbrAzo style
Fashion With a mission
WINTER 2014 thegorgemagazine.com
FALL 2013 thegorgemagazine.com
» Partake: The Dining + Drinking guide for the gorge, page 76
from bean to brew Coffee roasters rising
making traCks
snowshoe Here, now
port-style wine
it's what’s for Dessert
a complete guide to
weddings in the columbia gorge 2014 wedding booklet see insert page 56
the tilly Jane Cabin on mount Hood
Subscribe now for only $19.99 (4 issues) or $29.99 (8 issues)…541.399.6333 // thegorgemagazine.com for more information The Gorge Magazine is published quarterly, new subscribers will receive the next available issue. If the post office alerts you that your magazine is undeliverable we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 75
our gorge partake
A resource for the best places to eat and drink in the Gorge: restaurants, cafés, breweries and wineries
French Onion Soup by Kacie McMackin Ingredients • 6 Tbsp. butter, (¾ stick) • 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil • 5 Large yellow onions, trimmed, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced pole to pole • 2 Cloves garlic, minced • 1 Cup red wine •2 Tbsp. Dijon Mustard • 3 Tbsp. flour • 6 Sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 Bay leaves • 2 Quarts low sodium beef broth (or sub. a rich vegetable broth to make it vegetarian) • Kosher salt • Freshly ground black pepper • 1 Baguette*, thinly sliced • ½ Cup grated Grana Padano** or Parmesan • 1 Cup grated Emmental or Gruyere** • Chives, thinly sliced
directions • In a large dutch oven, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, thyme, one bay leaf, a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook the onions, stirring often, for about 2 hours, until the onions are caramelized (a dark, rich brown color). • Discard the bay leaf and thyme stems. • Add in the wine and Dijon. Stir continuously until the wine has reduced and the onions are “dry” again. Reduce the heat. Dust the onions with the flour and stir continuously for five minutes. • Add in the broth and the second bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered for 30-45 minutes, until the broth has reduced, and the soup has thickened. • Preheat your broiler. Toss the two grated cheeses together in a small bowl. Transfer the soup into oven-proof bowls, top with a layer of bread, sprinkle with a bit of the cheeses. Place them under the broiler, on a cookie sheet, until the cheese is bubbly and golden. Sprinkle with chives and serve immediately. *My favorite is from Knead Bakery. **Available at Ovino Market
76 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
try pairing with these local wine selections
Recipes + Photos by Kacie McMackin
For more recipes, online cooking demos and a food guide for the Gorge visit gorgeinthegorge.com
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 77
andrew's pizza & bakery
(541) 386-1448 • andrewspizza.com 107 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River 310 SW 2nd Street • Downtown Stevenson Since 1991 Andrew's Pizza has been serving New York-style, hand-tossed pizza. Topping selections from basic to gourmet. Feel like a movie? Step through the Hood River restaurant and enter the Skylight Theatre…sit back and enjoy a firstrun movie while sipping on a pint of beer or a glass of wine. dine-in, take-out or delivery.
backwoods brewing company
aniche cellars
APPLE VALLEY BBQ
(360) 624-6531 • anichecellars.com 71 Little Buck Creek Road • Underwood
(541) 352-3554 • applevalleybbq.com 4956 Baseline Drive • Downtown Parkdale
We are a small family owned and operated winery located in the heart of the Columbia Gorge. We make wine with an eye to European tradition and a particularly Washington sense of terroir and style. Our wines are almost entirely varietal blends which creates an eclectic mix of characteristics and complexity. The fruit we use comes from Washington’s plethora of renowned AVAs, including our very own Columbia Gorge AVA.
• Our meats are smoked using local cherry wood • Dry rub and BBQ sauces are all made in-house • Pulled pork, chicken, ribs, burgers, salads, vegetarian items • Nightly dinner specials • Local draft beer, wine, hard cider • All desserts fresh-made by Apple Valley Country Store • Outdoor seating available • Ask about catering Open: Wed-Sun at 11am to 8pm. Closed: Mon & Tues.
(509) 427-3412 • Open Thur-Sun, 3-9pm 1162B Wind River Road • Carson
(541) 298-7388 • casaelmirador.com 1424 West 2nd Street • The Dalles
casa el mirador
celilo restaurant & bar
We, the Waters family, decided to open a new brewery in Carson, Washington. Our brewery is inspired by the finest craft breweries of the Columbia River Gorge and all around the Pacific Northwest. We are locally owned and our beer is locally brewed in the “Backwoods”. Enjoy delicious pizza, fresh salads and tasty appetizers in our family-friendly pub.
Quality Mexican food prepared with the freshest and finest ingredients. Warm, friendly service and a lively atmosphere. Indulge in generous portions of flavorful sizzling fajitas,fish tacos, savory enchilada dishes and daily specials. Happy Hour margaritas, drink specials and 1/2 off appetizers from 4-7pm, Mon-Fri. Full service bar, take-out menu, gift certificates and catering services. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week.
Celilo began with a desire to honor the bounty of this region and a commitment to a healthy and sustainable future. Our ever-changing menu reflects the seasonal highlights of the region’s growers and foragers. We offer the most innovative in fresh, local cuisine as well as an award-winning wine list, full bar, small plate menu, and happy hour daily from 5-6pm. experience the freshest foods here, today!
grace su’s china gorge
(541) 386-5331 • chinagorge.com 2680 Old Columbia River Drive • Hood River (Located of I-84 and the base of Hwy 35) While visiting the Gorge…take a trip to China. Great Szechuan-Hunan taste. No airfare. Free Parking. Very happy family. great plates for more than 30 years.
78 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
clock tower ales
(541) 386-5710 • celilorestaurant.com 16 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River
dog river coffee
(541) 705-3590 • clocktowerales.com 311 Union Street • Downtown The Dalles
(541) 386-4502 • dogrivercoffee.net 411 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River
We are located in the second Wasco Co. Courthouse built in 1883 and home to the last public hanging in 1905 (wish we had a photo of that). Join us in Historic Downtown The Dalles for fine pub grub, live entertainment and 30 plus craft beers on tap as well as cider and a local wine selection. Spacious outdoor seating, banquet and private party rooms available. open: tues-sun at 11am to close.
One of America's Best Coffeehouses Full service espresso bar featuring Stumptown coffee Breakfast burritos, pastries and more caffeinating your adventures since 2004 open: Mon-fri, 6am-6pm & Sat-Sun, 7am-6pm
everybodysbrewing.com White Salmon, WA
DIVOTS clubhOuSe ReSTAuRANT
double mountain brewery & taproom (541) 387-0042 • doublemountainbrewery.com 8 Fourth Street • Downtown Hood River
(509) 637-2774 • everybodysbrewing.com 151 Jewett Boulevard • Downtown White Salmon
A scenic choice with excellent food and personal service located in the heart of the Hood River Valley just minutes from downtown. Unwind with breathtaking views of Mt Hood and Mt Adams from our covered, wind protected patio. Relax with a beverage from our full service bar or enjoy some fabulous northwest cuisine at a reasonable price. Open Daily for lunch & Dinner. happy hour 3-6pm.
A local favorite, serving up an ever-changing variety of ales and lagers that are brewed onsite. The highly-regarded brews are complemented by a menu of sandwiches, salads and delicious thin-crust New York-style pizza that has earned rave reviews. Outdoor seating available.
See for yourself why Everybody’s Brewing is a local favorite! We brew 12 different styles of beer plus seasonal selections onsite. The menu is filled with affordable food choices made with high-quality local ingredients. The atmosphere is warm and family-friendly. Enjoy the stunning Mt. Hood view from the outdoor deck, listen to free live music on Friday nights. Open Tues-Sun: 11:30am to closing
(541) 308-0304 • indiancreekgolf.com 3605 Brookside Drive • Hood River
open 7 days a week at 11:30am
EVERYBODY’S BREWING
ket
Idlewild Mar Est. 2012
FULL SAIL TASTING ROOM & PUB
idlewild market
mcmenamins edgefield
(541) 386-2247 • fullsailbrewing.com 506 Columbia Street • Downtown Hood River
(541) 436-0040 • idlewildmarket.com 101 4th Street • Downtown Hood River
(503) 669-8610 • mcmenamins.com 2126 SW Halsey Street • Troutdale (off Exit 16)
If there is one thing a brewer loves more than great beer– it’s great food and great beer! Our northwest-inspired menu complements our award-winning brews and features seasonal, local ingredients. Swing by for a pint, grab a bite, tour the brewery or just soak up the view. Open daily at 11am serving lunch and dinner. Guided brewery tours are offered daily at 1, 2, 3 and 4pm and are free of charge.
We are conveniently located in the heart of downtown Hood River. Well-stocked with a wide variety of food items, general merchandise, carefully selected local and NW wines, microbrews, and locally crafted art and gifts. We strive to provide an outstanding micro-shopping experience.
Warm up this season with a specialty cocktail while next to a fire pit, enjoying a movie in the theater or strolling the 74-acres of the Edgefield estate. Afterwards, enjoy dinner in the Black Rabbit Restaurant or the Power Station Pub. ales, wines, and spirits are handcrafted onsite.
north shore café
ovino market & delicatessen (541) 436-0505 • ovinomarket.com 1209 13th Street • Hood River Heights
(541) 321-0490 • pfriembeer.com 707 Portway Avenue, Suite 101 • Hood River Waterfront
North Shore Café, formerly known as 10 Speed North, offers: • Fresh, quick, healthy breakfasts and snacks served all day • Locally roasted coffee from 10-Speed Coffee Roasters • Fresh juice and real fruit smoothies • Fresh fruit mimosas • Wine, beer, and hard cider • Local art and live music • Beautiful views of Mount Hood • Indoor/Outdoor seating open daily 6:30am-4pm • open later for events
• A variety of cheeses and charcutery, freshly cut to order • Balsamic vinegar, olive oil, local bread, and fresh pasta • Tapas, cheese, and meat platters for catered events • Wine and Hard Apple Cider made in house • European-style sandwiches to go or enjoy them at our sandwich bar served with wine, beer or cider open: tues-Fri, 10am-6pm; sat, 11am-5pm
Pfriem artisanal beers are symphonies of flavor and balance, influenced by the great brewers of Belgium, but unmistakably true to our homegrown roots in the Pacific Northwest. Although they are served humbly, each glass is overflowing with pride and a relentless aspiration to brew the best beer in the world. We’ll let you decide. Open: wed, Thur, sun 11:30-10pm; Fri-sat 11:30-11pm
(509) 493-1340 • Find us on Facebook 166 East Jewett Boulevard • Downtown White Salmon
mon-thur & Sun 9am-9pm • Fri & Sat, 9am-10pm
PFriem Family brewers
the gorge magazine // winter 2014 79
pietro’s pizza & Gallery of Games
pint shack
pizzicato
(541) 386-1606 • pietrospizza.com 107 2nd Street • Downtown Hood River
(541) 387-7600 • pintshack.com 105 4th Street • Downtown Hood River
(541) 387-2055 • pizzicatopizza.com 2910 Cascade Avenue • Hood River
We offer fun games for all ages and three TVs so Mom and Dad can catch the game. Our extensive menu consists of a variety of pizzas, sandwiches, pasta, and a 24 item salad bar. It also includes broasted chicken, chicken wings, and seasoned fries. Place your to go orders at pietrospizza.com. Delivery available in Hood River and White Salmon. Free delivery to local hotels.
Welcome to the sunny side, where Hood River and Baja collide! Head on in for a fun vibe and enjoy the great selection of Northwestern craft beers, ciders and wine. 12 taps rotating often and a great selection of bottles. Enjoy it here or take ‘em home. We also offer great pub food! Live Music on Wed and Fri nights
• Featuring Local Beer and Wine • Locally Sourced Produce • Delivery and Carry-Out • Selection of Gluten-Free Menu Items Available
riverside & cebu lounge
sixth street bistro & loft
SolStice wood fire café, bar & catering
open Daily 11am-9pm
(541) 386-4410 • riversidehoodriver.com Exit 64 off I-84 • Waterfront Hood River
(541) 386-5737 • sixthstreetbistro.com 509 Cascade Avenue • Downtown Hood River
Diners seek out Riverside for some of the best food in the Gorge—and Cebu for great bar food, drinks and live entertainment. With amazing panoramic river views, Riverside offers fresh menu choices that change seasonally for breakfast, lunch & dinner—plus an award-winning wine list. Check our website for current menus and our Chef’s Blog. cebu lounge: happiest hours in town, Mon-Fri 4-6 pm
A local favorite for over 20 years! We are committed to serving naturally raised, organic and local produce, meats, beer and wine. We have 12 microbrews, draft cider and a full bar. Happy hour daily from 5-6pm. Casual setting, outside seating and family friendly. Located at the corner of 6th and Cascade Streets in downtown Hood River. open 7 days a week at 11:30 for lunch and dinner.
MOVED TO HOOD RIVER! A community focused café, bar and mobile catering kitchen serving inventive pizzas with perfectly blistered crusts, Moroccan beef stew and seasonal chef's entrees. Book your Holiday Catering now! Great pizza and great cocktails make the world a little better.
sushi okalani
TAD’S CHICKEN ‘N DUMPLINS
stonehedge gardens
(541) 436-0800 • solsticewoodfirecafe.com 501 Portway Avenue • Hood River, OR
(541) 386-3940 • stonehedgeweddings.com 3405 West Cascade Avenue • Hood River
(541) 386-7423 • sushiokalani@gorge.net 109 First Street • Downtown Hood River
(503) 666-5337 • tadschicdump.com 1325 East Historic Columbia River Hwy • Troutdale
“The best outdoor dining in the Gorge.” –NW Best Places We are a favorite among locals and visitors. Our cuisine is a classic, European blend that utilizes fresh, local ingredients and pairs well with our select wines. Our gardens are the perfect setting for weddings. Full-service catering available. “Romantic setting and the best meal I had in town.” –The Los Angeles Times
Come find us in the basement of the Yasui Building, the local’s favorite spot for fresh fish, Pan-Asian Cuisine, and a rockin’ atmosphere! Lots of rotating specials, creative rolls, and a large sake selection means you’re always trying something new! Private rooms are available for groups up to 20 people. Take-out menu available online. Open for dinner nightly at 5:00, closing hours change seasonally.
Nestled on the banks of the Sandy River in Troutdale, OR. We are located halfway between Portland and Multnomah Falls. Serving exquisite American cuisine since the 1930s. The menu includes: Pacific NW seafood specialties as well as traditional steak, chicken, and pasta dishes; a full bar, and our famous chicken ‘n dumplins. Open: Mon-Fri, 5pm-10pm; Sat & Sun 4pm-10pm
80 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
the glass onion restaurant (509) 773-4928 • theglassonionrestaurant.com 604 South Columbus Avenue • Goldendale
(541) 386-2828 • thegorgewhitehouse.com 2265 Highway 35 • Hood River
the gorge white house
the restaurant at cooper spur
Join us in our cozy dining room for delicious local food made entirely from scratch by Chef, Matt McGowan. His philosophy: use fresh, quality ingredients and let the dish speak for itself, keep it simple and clean. Enjoy local wines and craft beer on tap, free WiFi, featured artist every month, special events and wine dinners. Ask about catering and private parties. open: Wed-sat, 11am-9pm
Taste local wine and microbrews, and try our own new pear cider! Take home fresh local fruit, flowers and more from our farm stand. Enjoy our spectacular mountain views, gardens and fields. Wine, fruit, flowers, art, and more in a historic home on a century old working farm! Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Pet friendly. open 10-6pm April-october
Our rustic mountain restaurant offers fresh creative food, a seasonally changing menu, local beers and wines, and wellcrafted drinks. A perfect place to dine after a day of exploring the Mt. Hood National Forest. Come celebrate with a FREE entrée on your birthday. Open daily for dinner. Breakfast and lunch served Fri, Sat and Sun. View our menus online!
THE WAUCOMA CLUB BAr & griLL
VOLCANIC BOTTLE SHOPPE
(541) 387-2583 • waucomaclub.com 207 Cascade Avenue • Downtown Hood River
(541) 436-1226 • volcanicbottleshoppe.com 1410 12th Street • Hood River Heights
For the best in gastro-pub dining, hand-made cocktails, sports and live music, The Waucoma Club has it all. Located in the historic Hotel Waucoma, the Club is open Monday through Friday from 4pm to late and Saturday and Sundays from noon to late. Children are welcome until 8pm. Happy Hour Daily from 4pm to 6pm.
We have an amazing selection of: • Craft and Import Beer (12 rotating taps, over 200 bottles) • Local and Import Wine (50 labels) • Cider and Mead • Snack Food Enjoy it all here–outside in our private beer garden or inside in our comfortable living room atmosphere–or carry it out and enjoy it anywhere! Open daily.
(541) 352-6037 • cooperspur.com 10755 Coopur Spur Road • Mt. Hood/Parkdale
Your partake listing here
Contact Micki Chapman for more information: (541) 380-0971 • mchapman@thegorgemagazine.com (541) 399-6333 • thegorgemagazine.com The Gorge is a mecca for great food and drink: restaurants, cafés, wineries, breweries, food carts, and more. Help visitors and locals decide where to dine and drink. They’ll see your ad in print and in the online digital edition of the magazine…for one affordable price! reserVe a partake listing spaCe toDaY
A local resource guide for the discerning foodie. Reviews, recipes & more: gorgeinthegorge.com the gorge magazine // winter 2014 81
our gorge a thousand words
Tamanawas Falls
Photo by Peter Marbach // petermarbach.com
82 the gorge magazine // winter 2014
Play it safe In the water, on the trail, around the Columbia Gorge. The Columbia Gorge can be the perfect playground for any season. Whatever activity brings you to the Gorge, Providence wants you to play it safe. Pick up a free copy of our brochure, Play It Safe in the Columbia Gorge. It’s available at our clinics and hospital, by calling 541-387-6342, or online at www.providence.org/hoodriver.
It’s not just health care, it’s how we care.
®