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TH E G LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

ISSUE FOUR SPRING 2018 £5 WHERE SOLD

The

A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E

“If you find someone you love in your life, then hang on to that love” – Diana, Princess of Wales

T H E R OYA L W E D D I N G

C U LT U R E

Essential events STYLE

e runway report MEMBERS' CLUB

Inside the new Annabel’s

RULE BRITANNIA

A MODERN ROMANCE: The guest list, the dress, the ceremony

FRAGRANCE

THE MEGHAN EFFECT: A new style icon is born

BEAUTY

DIAMONDS AND TIARAS: Jewels fit for a princess

e latest scents Spring looks SHOPPING

e new collections HOMES

Style updates FOOD

Dining in season

THE NEW

I S S U E FO U R

TRENDS All that’s fresh in fashion, beauty and interiors

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Featuring: Martin Brudnizki on DESIGN, Simone Rocha on FASHION Layo & Zoë Paskin on FOOD, Bethan Laura Wood on INTERIORS Calgary Avansino on WELLBEING, Lorraine Pascale’s LONDON COVER.indd 3

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RENEWED RENEWED BYBY THE THE SEA SEA A Daily A Daily Transformation Transformation The iconic The iconic CrèmeCrème de la Mer de la renews Mer renews and restores, and restores, immersing immersing your your skin inskin moisture in moisture and the and renewing the renewing energies energies of ourof Miracle our Miracle Broth™. Broth™. Glowing Glowing with hydrated with hydrated radiance. radiance. #MyLaMerStory #MyLaMerStory

cremedelamer.co.uk cremedelamer.co.uk


CON I S S U E

F O U R

Arts & Culture 13 AGENDA

Dates for your diary this season

20 MEMBERS ONLY Fabled Mayfair club Annabel’s opens its doors at a new address

26 A NEW BEGINNING Charles Rae reflects on how this year’s royal wedding is set to modernise the monarchy

30 THOROUGHLY MODERN MEGHAN How the future duchess is shaping the fashion world, one British designer at a time

Style

34 FASHION NOTES The designers and trends on our radar

36 SIMONE THE STORYTELLER Simone Rocha talks childhood, china dolls and the narrative behind her SS18 collection

40 TREND REPORT: THE NEW SEASON The lowdown from this season’s politically charged catwalks

48 THE NEW COLLECTIONS We pick the standout pieces from some of spring’s key designers

61 THE CROWN JEWELS Dazzling diamonds and pearls fit for a Princess

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N TENTS Spring 2018

Beauty & Wellness 64  BEAUTY NOTES

The latest news and products

66 GET GLOSSY

New season, new beauty trends – from wet-look locks to high-shine lips

72 SPRING SCENTS

Update your scent wardrobe with the season’s freshest fragrance releases

74 NATURAL SELECTION

Wellness guru Calgary Avansino tells us how to make healthy living easy

Food & Drink 78 TASTING NOTES

Where to eat and what to drink

80 SIBLING REVELRY

Home & Interiors 98 DESIGN NOTES

Inspirations from the world of interiors

100 TRUE COLOURS Inside the kaleidoscopic world of designer Bethan Laura Wood

104 DESIGN HEROES Discover this season’s most important new interiors trends

Last Word

112 MY GLOSSARY Lorraine Pascale’s little black book

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Inside The Blue Posts – Layo and Zoë Paskin’s new fine-dining pub in Chinatown

84 RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Food writer Hilary Armstrong finds the best tables in the city

104

Travel

90 TRAVEL NOTES

36

Global destinations

92 A GRAND AFFAIR

Redefining style in Mauritius at the Kelly Hoppen-designed LUX* Grand Gaube resort

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GLOSSARY W E LCOM E

TO

THE

S

pring has sprung and love is in the air. Yes, the royal wedding is fast approaching and bringing with it a new chapter for the sovereign family, its image galvanised by the arrival American actor, activist and passionate feminist Meghan Markle. On page 26, we round up what we know so far, from who has made the guest list to who will be singing at the ceremony. As speculation abounds around who will design the dress, we investigate the ‘Meghan effect’ (page 30) – the impact the princessto-be can have on a brand simply by wearing one of its pieces – and the subtle message her sartorial choices convey. Inspired by this renewed sense of tradition the sense of vitality that permeates London in the spring time, this issue focuses on all that’s fresh, different and new. We pull together the key spring looks from international and British designers including Prada, Erdem, Valentino and Dior, and distil all the trends from the SS18 shows, which reveal an unexpectedly optimistic response to the political anxieties of the day (page 40). We chat to fashion designer Simone Rocha (page 36) and multi-disciplinary creative Bethan Laura Wood (page 100), two talents that are shaking up their respective industries with their distinctive style, and we visit Annabel’s, as the legendary club favoured by celebrities and aristocracy alike gets a new location and a £55 million makeover by in-demand interior architect Martin Brudnizki (page 20). Elsewhere, we round up the latest art and culture openings and events (page 13) and we scour the London restaurant scene for the best spring-time menus (page 84). We also highlight the latest beauty (page 66) and interiors trends (page 104) as well as the new perfume launches (page 72). Long may this mood reign. Enjoy the issue.

The perfect guest Make a st yle statem ent this season

PRADA Wool blend coat, £3,340; brownsfashion.com

SHRIMPS Faux-pearl bag, £450; matchesfashion.com

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Velvet and satin pumps, £670; net-a-porter.com

CHANEL Diamond earrings, POA; chanel.com

PHILIP TREACY Straw headpiece, £750; philiptreacy.co.uk

DOLCE & GABBANA Organza silk dress, £2,700; harrods.com

THE GLOSSARY

EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Gemma Ryder FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton CONTRIBUTORS: Alexandra Jones, Amy Bradford, Bethan Ryder, Charles Rae, Chris Allsop, Emma O’Kelly, Grace Cook, Harriet Quick, Hilary Armstrong, Jessica Klingelfuss, Lizzie Pook, Mollie McGuigan, Rachel Walker, Rachel Ward, Sophie Qureshi editorial@theglossarymagazine.com | advertising@theglossarymagazine.com production@theglossarymagazine.com | accounts@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited © 2018 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

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CONTRIBUTORS Spring 2018

Harriet Quick

Grace Cook

Harriet Quick is a style journalist and consultant – she is a contributing editor to British Vogue, Modern Weekly in China and also works as editor-at-large to Lane Crawford in Asia.

Grace Cook is a fashion and beauty journalist who has written for T Magazine, Monocle, Grazia, FT Magazine and The Telegraph. She formerly worked at The Business of Fashion and the Financial Times.

Springtime in London will see me… taking tennis lessons in Highbury Fields, cultivating violets, daisies and roses in my garden, and dating. I’m most looking forward to… Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier at the Design Museum, which opens in May. My SS18 purchase is… a laser-cut lace dress by Alaïa, from the new store on Bond Street.

Springtime in London will see me… making the most of the beautiful open spaces – coffees in Clissold Park, boating in Regent’s Park and barbecues in London Fields. I’m most looking forward to… RHS Chelsea Flower show; in another life I’d be a florist. It’s next level artistry – all of the different displays are so beautiful. My SS18 purchase is… a city-appropriate basket bag. Ideally from Loewe.

COVER LOOK PHOTOGRAPHER: Billie Scheepers STYLIST: Thea Lewis-Yates MODEL: Anna Chowela at Premier Model Management PREEN Veronique silk organza dress, £1,100; preenbythorntonbregazzi.com MESSIKA ‘Angel’ diamond earrings, £20,900; messika.com DE BEERS ‘Enchanted Lotus’ diamond ring, £2,400; debeers.co.uk

Sophie Qureshi

Bethan Ryder

Hilary Armstrong

Emma O'Kelly

Sophie Qureshi is an awardwinning beauty journalist. Previously beauty & style director at Marie Claire, her work has appeared in The Sunday Times’ Style, Grazia and The New York Times.

Bethan Ryder recently joined Wallpaper* as digital editor. She was formerly deputy editor of Luxury titles at The Telegraph and has written on design and travel for numerous titles.

Hilary Armstrong writes about food and restaurants for Telegraph Luxury. Previously features editor at Restaurant Magazine, she has contributed to Olive, Ultratravel and The Guardian.

Emma O’Kelly is editor-at-large at Wallpaper*, and writes for How To Spend It, Telegraph Luxury, Christie’s and Condé Nast Traveler US.

Springtime in London will see me… emerging from hibernation to enjoy the lighter evenings and having an excuse to sip pale Provençal rosé. I’m most looking forward to… the Loewe Craft Prize – the pieces will go on show at the Design Museum from 4 May as part of London Craft Week. My SS18 purchase is… Jardin d’osier wallpaper by Hermès for Dedar to go in my downstairs powder room.

Springtime in London will see me… at the Towpath Cafe on Regent’s Canal, drinking rosé and eating grilled cheese sandwiches in the sun. I’m most looking forward to… London Original Print Fair at the Royal Academy. It’s my annual excuse to purchase something lovely from Tokyo’s Gallery Jin. My SS18 purchase is… an Acne Studios cardigan for those days when the weather refuses to cooperate with my al fresco dining plans.

Springtime in London will see me…enjoying lazy Sundays in the sun walking along the canal. I’m most looking forward to… the Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018 exhibition at The Design Museum. My SS18 purchase is… Rejina Pyo’s Bonnie ruched denim midi skirt - it’s such a standout style for the summer.

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Springtime in London will see me… walking the dog on Hampstead Heath and soaking up magnolia trees in bloom and the riotous colours of the rhododendron bushes outside Kenwood House. I’m most looking forward to… Christo’s The Mastaba floating sculpture on the lake at the Serpentine Gallery. My SS18 purchase is… a kaftan for a beach party by Lake Maggiore – I’m looking at Etro, Tabitha and Camilla.

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ARTS & CULTURE

Somewhere in Between WELLCOME COLLECTION

Under, 2015. © Martina Amati.

UNTIL 27 AUGUST

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Four contemporary artists – Martina Amati, Daria Martin, Maria McKinney and John Walter – worked with scientists to explore what it means to be human in the 21st century. Delving into physiology, neuroscience, immunology and genetics, they each created an immersive installation that contributes to scientific understanding and encourages visitors think in a new way. wellcomecollection.org

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Agenda

WHAT'S ON & WHERE The Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize 2018 THE PHOTOGRAPHERS’ GALLERY UNTIL 3 JUNE

Exhibition

FASHIONED FROM NATURE V&A

21 April-27 January 2019; vam.ac.uk

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Art Capital: Art For The Elizabeth Line WHITECHAPEL GALLERY

Charting the link between fashion and nature from 1600 to the current day is long-running exhibition ‘Fashioned From Nature’. By bringing together 300 pieces of clothing and natural history specimens, it presents an in-depth survey of sustainability and fashion. Star pieces include ethically made designs by Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood, and a Calvin Klein dress formed from recycled plastic bottles that was worn by Emma Watson to the 2016 Met Gala.

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Chantal Joffe, A Sunday Afternoon in Whitechapel, 2017, Collage on paper, 50.5 × 35 cm, © Chantal Joffe. Courtesy the artist and Victoria Miro, London / Venice

Here’s your chance to see the prize’s shortlist before it goes on tour to Europe. The four names competing are Mathieu Asselin, Rafal Milach (whose work is pictured above), Batia Suter and Luke Willis Thompson, and the winner will be announced in May. thephotographersgallery.org.uk

UNTIL 6 MAY

This December, the Elizabeth Line will open and with it, a series of specially commissioned artworks from British and international artists as part of The Crossrail Art Programme. Whitechapel Gallery will unveil the commissions, with behind-the-scenes access showing how the public art initiative came about. whitechapelgallery.org

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

VICTORIAN GIANTS: THE BIRTH OF ART PHOTOGRAPHY

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY UNTIL 20 MAY

The National Portrait Gallery’s latest show explores the life and influence of four revolutionary photographers from the Victorian era: Julia Margaret Cameron, Lewis Carroll, Lady Clementina Hawarden and Oscar Rejlander. Kate Middleton has added some star power by curating part of the exhibition.

npg.org.uk

AZZEDINE ALAÏA: THE COURTURIER DESIGN MUSEUM 10 MAY-7 OCTOBER

Inimitable, rebellious and endlessly innovative, the life and legacy of Azzedine Alaïa is celebrated in a landmark solo exhibition at the Design Museum, co-curated by the artist before his tragic death last November. More than 60 handpicked, handmade garments sit alongside newly-commissioned architectural pieces in a show that's as extraordinary as the man himself.

designmuseum.org

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: The Evening Sun (Iphigenia) by Oscar Rejlander; Lewis Carroll by Oscar Rejlander; Ophelia (Mary Pinnock) by Julia Margaret Cameron

THEATRE

Don’t miss

Book ahead

Book ahead

FROZEN

KING LEAR

UNTIL 5 MAY

12 JULY– 3 NOVEMBER

MY NAME IS LUCY BARTON

Jonathan Munby works his magic again in Bryony Lavery’s chilling story of the disappearance of a young girl. Suranne Jones gives a riveting, powerful performance as the anguished mother, while Nina Sosanya plays the American psychiatrist attempting to explore the killer’s motives. trh.co.uk

Ian McKellen takes to the stage once again as tormented King Lear in Jonathan Munby’s modern retelling of Shakespeare’s greatest tragedy. Get your tickets, quick - it’s debut run at Chichester Festival Theatre in 2017 was a sell out and it’s set to do the same in London. atgtickets.com

THEATRE ROYAL HAYMARKET

DUKE OF YORK

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BRIDGE THEATRE 2–23 JUNE

A woman awakes in hospital following an operation and finds her estranged mother sitting next to her bed. So begins Elizabeth Strout’s moving, gut-punching novel My Name Is Lucy Barton, now adapted for the stage by Rona Munro and starring Laura Linney as the titular character. bridgetheatre.co.uk

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Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018 THE DESIGN MUSEUM UNTIL 12 AUGUST

From adoption of the Je Suis Charlie slogan to the ‘CorbyNike’ T-shirt that incorporated support for the Labour leader with the Nike logo, ‘Hope to Nope’ takes a fascinating look at how graphic design in the form of memes, posters and placards has reacted to major political moments of our time, including Occupy Wall Street, Brexit and Trump. designmuseum.org

Monet & Architecture NATIONAL GALLERY UNTIL 29 JULY

It’s the UK’s first Monet retrospective in nearly 20 years, but this one will take a different approach from previous shows. Instead of waterlilies and idyllic natural scenes, ‘Monet & Architecture’ plots the artist’s career via the buildings, bridges and cathedrals he painted. nationalgallery.org.uk 16

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Chelsea in Bloom

Chelsea Flower Show

ROYAL HOSPITAL CHELSEA 22-26 MAY

The world’s most prestigious flower show returns this May. Alongside 10 show gardens and exhibits by some of the best nurseries in the world in the Great Pavilion, extended opening times will accommodate Chelsea at Twilight, a vibrant evening with bands, a food market and wandering artists, as well as a chance to enjoy the Artisan Gardens after sunset. rhs.org.uk

Bruce Oldfield in Conversation CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN 18 APRIL

In the grounds of Chelsea Physic Garden, accompanied by fizz and canapés, fashion designer Bruce Oldfield and horticulturalist James Alexander-Sinclair will discuss how gardening and flowers have influenced Oldfield’s work, as well as his inspirations for the garden at his home in West Sussex. chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

JOAN JONAS TATE MODERN UNTIL 5 AUGUST

Pioneering video and performance artist Joan Jonas gets the attention she deserves in Tate Modern’s comprehensive survey of the American artist. The exhibition will be complemented by a series of talks and events, including performances by Jonas, who has reimagined her work for specific spaces in The Tanks.

tate.org.uk

MARK DION:

Theatre of the Natural World WHITECHAPEL GALLERY UNTIL 13 MAY An aviary of 22 real-life zebra finches marks the start of Mark Dion’s lively and captivating exhibition. The American artist has travelled all over the world, returning to create real and replicated scenes that tell the story of natural history. The birds are a highlight, but close second is the Wonder Workshop, a room of glowing synthetic creatures and objects based on 17th-century illustrations.

whitechapelgallery.org

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NUDE IN A BLACK ARMCHAIR (NU AU FAUTEUIL NOIR),1932, Oil paint on canvas, 1613 x 1295 mm, Private Collection, USA, © Succession Picasso/DACS London, 2017

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PABLO PICASSO, RUE LA BOÉTIE, 1933, Paris, © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby's

A R T S & C U LT U R E

THE MIRROR (LE MIROIR), 1932, Oil paint on canvas, 1300 x 970 mm, Private Collection, © Succession Picasso/DACS London, 2017

The EY Exhibition:

PICASSO 1932 Love, Fame, Tragedy TAT E M O D E R N For the first time in its history, Tate Modern will host a solo exhibition of Pablo Picasso’s work. Taking visitors month by month through the period known as his ‘year of wonders’, the exhilarating show will present more than 100 of Piccasso’s paintings, sculptures and drawings from 1932. This was a particularly pivotal time for the 20th century’s most influential artist, who embarked on a love affair that led to 12 months of frenzied creativity. Aged 50, he enjoyed his first large-scale retrospective at the venerable Galeries Georges Petit in the heart of Paris, his 1905/06 painting ‘La Coiffure’ (The Hairstyle) set an auction record and he created the now-famous series of paintings of his much younger mistress, Marie-Thérèse Walter. Three of those paintings will be on show together for the first time since their creation, as will his masterpiece ‘Le Reve’ (The Dream), a libidinous portrait of sexual desire that has never been shown in the UK before.

Until 9 September, tate.org.uk THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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GIRL BEFORE A MIRROR (JEUNE FILLE DEVANT UN MIROIR), 1932, Oil paint on canvas, 1623 x 1302 mm, The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Gift of Mrs. Simon Guggenheim 1937, © Succession Picasso/DACS London, 2017

RECLINING NUDE (FEMME NUE COUCHÉE), 1932, Oil paint on canvas, 1300 x 1610 mm, Private Collection, © Succession Picasso/DACS London, 2017

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Spotlight

Members

ONLY As Annabel’s opens its new doors for the first time, can the fabled club recapture the glamour of its heyday?

F

Words EMMA O’KELLY

or decades, the spot near the golden Buddha at Annabel’s was the epicentre of London nightlife. A certain type of nightlife anyway. The club’s inner circle would congregate there to flirt and drink, to recount misadventures with sharks on their private Caribbean islands and memories of picking up their trust funds with nannies in tow. A few martinis down, they would hit the dance floor, with its light-up panels, and boogie til 4am. With its no phone rule and strict door policy, Annabel’s encouraged naughtiness in all its forms. Oh, if only that Buddha could talk. Times have changed, however, and a new incarnation of the famous club, opening this month two doors down from the original, allows phones and computers (on the top floor only), is open from 7am to 4am, to cater to the 24/7 pace of its members, and thanks to its creator, Swedish interior architect Martin Brudnizki, offers Instagram opportunities in abundance although the rulebook comes with the edict that ‘Annabel’s discourages its patrons from committing their antics to a public forum.’ Antics may be kept under wraps, but Brudnizki’s interiors will undoubtedly provide eye candy for social media. The entrance is marked by an onyx floor that lights up, two huge candelabra featured in the 1964 film Paris When It Sizzles, pleated silk walls and a 1937 Picasso entitled ‘Femme au beret rouge a pompon’ which is in the same spot as in the old Annabel’s next door. The cloakroom is a ‘pagoda’ under the grand Grade-I listed Georgian staircase that sweeps around a giant winged unicorn floating in the atrium. Before you have even taken a seat in one of its four new restaurants, or ordered a Negroni at one of its seven bars, its aesthetics will have sparked sensory overload. ‘You might not want this at home,’ concedes Brudnizki, ‘but it’s fun to have dinner here.’

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

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The designer has been collaborating with the club’s owner Richard Caring for more than a decade. Their hotspots include London’s Ivy, Sexy Fish and 34 Mayfair but Annabel’s is, Brudnizki says, their most ambitious yet, and ‘the most maximalist project that I’ll ever be allowed to do’. His starting point was Caring himself: ‘Richard loves Labradors and gardens. In that way, he’s quintessentially British, so I decided Annabel’s should be about animals and gardens, flora and fauna.’ British eccentricity, that core strand in Annabel’s DNA, was also key. ‘You only have to go beyond the M25 to see it’s still very much alive,’ laughs Brudnizki, whose private apartment in Kensington is far more sedate. ‘Take Chatsworth House. Richard let me go completely crazy, then he reigned me in. It was like doing an haute couture collection and bringing it back to ready-to-wear. But still, it’s insane.’ Gold leaf, tigers, elephants and birds of paradise appear on carpets, walls and mirrors. Each piece of furniture is upholstered in multiple fabrics, trims, fringes and tassels, and everything is hand painted, hand cut, as bespoke as can be. Across all four floors wafts an original scent created by London perfumer Azzi Glasser who plans to revisit the club many times to create a fragrance for each room, which will evolve into a new Annabel’s collection. The whole 26,000 square metre space is, says Brudnizki, based around the idea of a garden: the first floor is the Asian garden; the basement with the dance floor is the Garden of Eden (‘I was thinking of the fall of man,’ he chuckles); and on the ground floor, a real garden with a retractable glass

Martin Brudnizki

“Birley named the club after his wife Lady Annabel. Quickly movie stars, models and musicians were drawn to the eccentric, highsociety hedonism it offered”

roof and dining for 120 links the Berkeley Square building with a second entrance on Hays Mews. The roof weighs 25 tons and was craned over in last summer. Light rain triggers its sensors and it retracts in 120 seconds. The only thing there’s no trace of is the old Annabel’s. And why would there be? The club was founded in 1963 by Caring’s former rival, the late Mark Birley, as a place to party with his pals, the peer and notorious fugitive Lord Lucan, financier turned crusading politician Jimmy Goldsmith and controversial zoo owner John Aspinall. Birley named the club after his wife Lady Annabel, who ran off with Goldsmith, and quickly movie stars, models and musicians were drawn to the eccentric, high-society hedonism it offered. In recent years, British bluebloods have migrated to 5 Hertford Street, the private club founded in 2013 by Birley’s son, Robin, who has inherited his father’s Midas Touch. (This month sees the opening of his new wine club Oswald’s, named after his grandfather and painter Oswald Birley.) Caring’s challenge is to match the magic that the Birley clan has always created

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while competing with the cooler, more contemporary clubs that have overtaken Annabel’s in recent years. So how is Annabel’s embracing the future? The new club is three times bigger than its predecessor, which was only ever a nightclub, while a health and wellbeing spa with its own separate entrance on Hays Mews is under construction. All of the restaurants are overseen by French chef Julien Jouhannaud, who worked with Alain Ducasse for 11 years, and the bars are run by Francisco ‘Frankie’ Santos and Luis Simoes, both of whom have conquered the London hotel scene for more than a decade. Private rooms are fitted with hi-tech lighting and audiovisual systems to cater to members who work. Staff will wear uniforms created by fashion designer Racil Chalhoub, whose signature is the tuxedo, and New York novelist and man about town Derek Blasberg has rewritten the dress code for members. The ‘no T-shirts,

Annabel, the painting formally known as Girl with a Red Beret and Pompom

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Members only

The Cultural Comittee

A who’s who of fashion, music, art and design, these names will build Annabel’s cultural credentials – and approve or veto your membership

Anna Wintour

trainers, leather and suede’ policy of old feels outmoded in today’s no-logo, tech billionaire world, and Blasberg provides clarity on this and many of today’s other sartorial conundrums. He declares: “The fashion world has embraced sportswear, and so has Annabel’s. However, sports shoes should not look like they’ve actually been used to play sports. Smart, clean trainers are welcome.” He adds: “Men are no longer required to wear a tie” and “the following are unwelcomed at Annabel’s: cheap, ill-fitting suits. Denim that is holey or deemed distressed. Shoes that women can’t walk in. Hats at night. Sunglasses at night, even if they’re prescription. Nipples on women. Nipples on men, especially. Dirty fingernails. Cargo pockets. Spiky hair. Men in shorts. Women in shorts. Exposed bra straps. Visible panty lines. Sports bras.” Blasberg is part of a new committee of creative heavyweights that will help forge Annabel’s new image. Make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury will design looks for female staff and consult on the powder rooms, while fashion influencer Hikari Yokoyama will curate the contemporary art. Besides consulting, they’re there to vet membership alongside fellow committee members Anna Wintour, Grace Jones,

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Kate Moss, Lady Gaga and Tom Ford to name but a few. All existing members are allowed to reapply, although the hike in fees is, according to one local gallerist, causing outrage amongst the ladies of Mayfair. New tariffs stretch from £1,000 for the under-27s to £5,250 a year. Only founder members are exempt. They can join for £5.25, the equivalent of the five guineas they paid in 1963, but they still need to be approved by the committee. Raffish old timers with diminished trust funds, beware. Despite its new home and £55 millionplus refurb, will Annabel’s have the one thing money can’t buy - class? As a friend who was a regular in the late 1990s recalls; ‘I was in the private dining room, being served champagne by the Moroccan and Italian waiters who had worked there for years, and some aristo chick was telling us about her friend who had been eaten by a tiger. All this was in contrast to the beauty of the room, which made the decadence seem beautiful too. Almost called for.’ And will the conversation be just as fabulous? Even though most relics from the past have been cast aside, the Buddha, at least, will be back to get the party started. annabels.co.uk

Astrid Harbord

Cara Delevingne

Charlotte Tilbury

Damien Hirst

Daphne Guinness

Derek Blasberg

Eddie Redmayne

Grace Jones

Hikari

Kate Moss

Lady Gaga

Naomi Campbell

Noor Fares

Richard Caring

Sienna Miller

Tom Ford

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A New Beginning Author and former royal correspondent Charles Rae on how Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s non-traditional wedding marks the start of a fresh chapter for the royal family Portraits ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

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rincess Diana once revealed to me the secret to acclimatising to life in the royal family: be yourself. It was not an approach that the steadfast institution was accustomed to four decades ago, but without an instruction manual, it was all Diana could do to retain a sense of calm amongst the frenzy that enveloped her upon marrying Prince Charles. Thrown in at the deep end, ultimately she succeeded in carving out her very own niche. And while for Meghan Markle there is still no instruction manual, the newest would-be princess does have people to show her the ropes, including her prospective sister-in-law Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, and stepmotherin-law Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall. The perfect sounding boards, both have been reassuring their future counterpart, outlining the practicalities and processes of preparing for royal life after the 36-year-old marries Prince Harry at St George’s Chapel in Windsor on May 19. One aspect of Diana’s life that Meghan does hope to replicate is her humanitarian work. Already a passionate activist, she has used her platform as an actor to work with UN Women, she’s championed gender equality, clean-water campaigns and the eradication of modern-day slavery. A clear sign that this work will continue, the couple requested that instead of wedding gifts, well wishers make donations to seven chosen charities that represent a range of issues they’re passionate about. They include Children’s HIV Association (CHIVA), which supports children living with HIV in the UK and Ireland; national homeless body Crisis; the Mumbai-based Myna Mahila Foundation, which empowers women through stable employment; Scotty’s Little Soldiers, which supports Armed Forces children who have lost a parent; StreetGames, which uses sport to help young people and communities become healthier and safer; marine conservation body Surfers Against Sewage; and The Wilderness Foundation UK, which teaches vulnerable teenagers from urban communities about the benefits of wild nature. Meghan is also the perfect royal for the social media age: famous, likeable and good at emoting. Even her engagement to Harry was announced on Twitter by Kensington Palace. Although Meghan has closed all of her personal accounts and her lifestyle blog The Tig since the wedding announcement – a move that brings her in line with the other royals – it’s hoped that this doesn’t signal a distancing of herself from the public, who hope she will be the next to soften the tough outer shell of the royals. For Harry, who was until recently one of the world’s most eligible bachelors, the engagement feels as much a relief as a coming of age. Past serious relationships have faltered in part due to the intense scrutiny that comes with dating a prince and his partners’ fears of a loss of privacy. Indeed, in 2016 he expressed his relationship frustrations to Violet von Westenholz, a long-time friend and the PR executive at Ralph Lauren. Violet had met Meghan through the brand and suggested to Harry that she might have the perfect person for him. Violet organised a blind date in July 2016 – Meghan had been single for just over two years following her divorce in 2014 from film producer Trevor Engelson.

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Perhaps of even more significance are the engagment ring’s two side stones, which were taken from jewellery belonging to his mother, “[I wanted] to make sure that she’s with us on this crazy journey together,” Harry said There were two back-to-back dates at London’s Soho House, the members’ club run by another mutual friend, Markus Anderson. Speaking to the BBC about being set up with the fifth-in-line to the throne, Meghan said: “I had one question. I said, “Well, is he nice?” Because if he wasn’t kind, it didn’t seem like it would make sense.” Clearly Harry passed the test and for four months the couple conducted a secret transatlantic courtship before news of the romance was

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leaked. Although the synergy was strong from the start, Harry revealed that before their blind date he was not familiar with the American actor. Equally, Meghan admitted that she didn’t know much about the prince, either. “For both of us though, it was really refreshing because, given that I didn’t know much about him, everything that I’ve learned about him, I’ve learned through him,” she said. Harry proposed to Meghan at their home – Nottingham Cottage in the grounds of Kensington Palace –

while they cooked roast chicken. He said he hardly got the words “Will you marry me?” out before Meghan had said yes. Harry designed the engagement ring, made by court jeweller Cleeve & Co, himself. It features a trilogy of diamonds set on a yellow-gold band - the bride-tobe’s favourite. At the centre is a cushioncut diamond from Botswana, a country that holds special significance for Harry, who has visited many times since he was a child. It’s also a place the couple have visited frequently over the past year-anda-half. Perhaps of even more significance are the two side stones, which were taken from jewellery belonging to his mother, “[I wanted] to make sure that she’s with us on this crazy journey together,” he said. Like Harry, Meghan’s parents’ divorced when she was young, producing a family set-up that was challenging yet supportive. “My parents, as two separate forces, were united whenever it came to raising me, supporting me and teaching me everything I needed along the way,” she said. “I still absolutely believe in the traditional family unit, but I also stand by the fact that families can exist and thrive in the most challenging of circumstances, and really it’s the love and support of those around you that counts, nothing else.” Meghan’s father, Thomas Markle, a former Emmy-winning TV lighting director, and her mother, Doria Ragland, a clinical therapist, met while both working at a Hollywood film studio in the late 1970s. While relations with her parents have always been good, the same cannot be said of her two estranged siblings from Thomas’s previous marriage, both of whom have attempted to cash in on their relationship with her. Since the engagement was announced on 27 November, 2017, Kensington Palace has gradually released teaser details about the couple’s big day - many via social media. It confirmed that the wedding will be paid for by the royal family even though the global fanfare it will create is expected to offer a £500 million boost to the UK economy. It’s also become apparent that the couple plan to do things a little differently. Firstly, the ceremony will take place on a Saturday, which breaks protocol as royal weddings have traditionally been held on a weekday: Prince William and Kate Middleton married on Friday 29 April 2011; Princess Diana and Prince Charles on Wednesday 29 July 1981; Queen

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Elizabeth II and Prince Philip on Thursday 20 November 1947. The couple will say their vows at the picturesque St George’s Chapel, which reportedly has space for around 800 guests in contrast to the 2,000-person capacity of Westminster Abbey, where William and Kate got married. A comparatively intimate space, it will be decorated by London-based florist Philippa Craddock, who has previously worked with the V&A, Hampton Court Palace, Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior. Created using locally sourced foliage, the displays will represent Harry and Meghan as a couple. Beech, birch and hornbeam, along with white garden roses, peonies and foxgloves are likely to feature and much will be taken from the gardens and parkland of The Crown Estate and Windsor Great Park, Kensington Palace. Invitations for the wedding – created by Barnard & Westwood, which has held a Royal Warrant for Printing & Bookbinding since 1985 – were sent mid-March. Donald Trump won’t be there, but then neither will Theresa May or former president Barack Obama. Elton John is due to attend as well as Harry’s chums socialite Rose van Cutsem, matchmaker Violet von Westenholz, his cousin Princess Eugenie, close friends Guy Pelly and Tom Inskip plus his wife Lara Hughes-Young. Two of Harry’s former girlfriends, Cressida Bonas and Chelsy Davy, are also expected to attend, with Prince George and Princess Charlotte pageboy and flowergirl. Also expected as guests are Meghan’s Suits co-stars Patrick J Adams, Gabriel Macht, Rick Hoffman and Sarah Rafferty, plus friends tennis star Serena Williams, fashion designer Misha Nonoo, stylist (and potential maid

FROGMORE HOUSE

of honour) Jessica Mulroney, ST. GEORGE’S CHAPEL Pilates instructor Heather Dorak and fellow actors Abigail Spencer and Priyanka Chopra. What would once have been an exclusive event for the nation’s elite has further been transformed into something far more inclusive with the announcement that over 2,500 people will be welcomed into the heart of the wedding. These invitees will be some of the first she’s not of royal birth. Instead Meghan to congratulate the pair outside St will become Her Royal Highness George’s Chapel. Their number will be Princess Henry of Wales when she made up of local Windsor school children, marries Harry, whose proper first name representatives from charities, members is Henry. The couple are also expected to be given the title of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex as a wedding gift from the Queen. Meghan will then be known as HRH the Duchess of Sussex just as William’s wife is HRH the Duchess of Cambridge. The new Mr and Mrs will then take an open-top carriage – weather permitting – through Windsor and along the Long Walk back to the Castle and on to the reception at St George’s Hall. The Palace has confirmed that Claire Ptak, owner of London-based bakery Violet Cakes, will create the cake. Ptak is known for using seasonal, organic ingredients and this commission will be no different. Lemon elderflower flavoured to incorporate the bright flavours of spring, the cake will be covered in buttercream and decorated with fresh flowers. It certainly makes a change from the towering fruit cakes favoured by royal couples throughout history. The couple are scheduled to then have of the public who have distinguished a second private reception hosted by themselves in service to their respective Prince Charles at Frogmore House communities, and members of staff from which will reportedly include several live the Royal Household and Crown Estate. acts. The Spice Girls are rumoured to be The couple have also revealed the exact one of them. It’s also rumoured that, in timings for the big day. Football fans can another break with tradition, Meghan breathe a sigh of relief as the ceremony, will make her own speech in honour of which will take place at 12pm, will not her new husband. - a move that has been clash with the FA Cup Final. This will universally praised. also allow Prince William, the best man Given what we know so far, it’s clear and President of the Football Association, that more than any other royal couple to make a post-wedding dash to the before them, Harry and Meghan have match before returning for the reception. successfully garnered the support of Officiating the ceremony is Justin a modern, global audience, and possess Welby, the Archbishop of Canterbury, the love, compassion and humility to while the Dean of Windsor will conduct flourish. Come May 19, we will surely all the service. Once married, she will not raise a glass to that. formally be known as Princess Meghan as

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T H O R O U G H L Y

M O DE R N

Meghan M Having caused coats and shoes to sell out and bags to generate waiting lists, Meghan Markle is now one of the world's most powerful fashion influencers – and flying the flag for British brands around the world Words GRACE COOK

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he sartorial influence of Meghan Markle knows no bounds. The Autumn/ Winter 2018 runways were awash with garments that were immediately likened to the future Princess’ distinctive style, from the long, cream woollen coats at Joseph to the sharply-tailored skirt suits at Erdem. It’s crucial to note that these garments are not exactly new; what’s remarkable is that Markle’s style is so ingrained in societies subconsciousness, that sight of a belted wool coat or a ladylike bag immediately brings her to mind. It highlights the extraordinary influence Markle has on the fashion industry. Such is the power of

the Meghan Effect that any garment she wears sells out almost instantaneously; paparazzi shots are accompanied by a flurry of associated stories detailing exactly what she wore and where to buy it. When Markle wore Stella McCartney’s black, belted coat in Wales in January, it sold out almost immediately at Harrods. The coat had arrived in store five weeks prior, but it was Markle that prompted the flurry of sales. Since, the store has received multiple calls and requests from clients. When she carried a bag from the British label Strathberry, it sold out in 11 seconds; it has since generated waiting lists of thousands. “Meghan carrying our bag has been phenomenal,” says Leeanne Hundleby, co-founder of the Edinburgh-

Meghan's STYLE STAPLES Shining a light on the best of British designers Fashion CHARLOTTE ADSETT

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MULBERRY Darley leather satchel, £550; mulberry.com

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Grain de Poudre wool blazer, £1,245; trousers £575; net-a-porter.com

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based brand. “As a brand we have been talked about internationally, in print and online, because of Meghan. Demand for the same bags she carried is still the greatest.” Since Markle first carried the bag, web traffic is up 400 percent daily, and Hundleby estimates sales at the brand will increase by up to 40 percent annually. This sell-out effect is happening across retailers: Stylebop sold out of the Joseph skirt Markle wore in December, while Browns Fashion and Farfetch have both reordered the Tabitha Simmons black Kiki boot. Meanwhile, British bag label DeMellier saw web traffic spike 2000 percent the day Markle carried the green Mini Venice bag. “Phones were ringing off the hook from all over the world,” says DeMellier’s founder Mireia Llusia-Lindh. Recently, for a service at Westminster Abbey, Markle wore a crisp white coat from Amanda Wakeley with Stephen Jones beret, accessorised with a Mulberry clutch bag and a pair of navy Manolo Blahnik heels: a seamless blend of British and non-British brands, as is Markle’s sartorial signature. Markle has a widely-varying roster of designer labels she wears. Whereas Kate keeps her wardrobe edit tight, Meghan is much more experimental. She isn’t afraid to mix high street (Marks and Spencers’ black crew neck sweater) and mid-range brands (Self Portrait) with luxury (Burberry’s checked wool overcoat). She wears evening dresses by Erdem, shoes by Aquazzura and hats by the royals’ favourite milliner Philip Treacy. And she isn’t just prompting product to sell out. When Markle wore a black tailored tuxedo suit by Alexander McQueen, it sparked a host of ‘get the look’ style stories that focused on female tailoring. Markle’s appeal is undeniable: she represents a new kind of royal. The former

AMANDA WAKELEY Springsteen dress, £495; Crombie coat, £895; amandawakeley.com

Suits actress is the first celebrity to be accepted into the firm. She’s also divorced, mixed race and a campaigner for women’s rights. She stands for something different within the monarchy, which is possibly why she favours British brands that have a charitable or ethical standpoint: on a recent trip to Wales, Markle wore a pair of Huit Jeans—an under-the-radar brand based in Cardiff—which makes all of its denim locally. Similarly, every bag purchased from DeMellier funds a set of vaccinations for children in developing countries. And most recently, Markle carried a bag by Charlotte Elizabeth—which crafts all its bags in Buckinghamshire and is supported by the Prince’s Trust. “It’s wonderful that Meghan supports smaller British brands as well as wearing established designer labels,” says Hundleby. “It provides us with greater exposure and increased brand awareness globally which is so important.” It’s clear she is a very different kind of princess. “Meghan Markle’s mode of dress is incredibly modern,” says Lizzie Bowring, catwalks director at trend forecasting

TABITHA SIMMONS Kiki velvet boots, £525; farfetch.com

DEMELLIER The Mini Venice leather bag, £295; demellierlondon.com

BURBERRY Wool cashmere coat, £1,995; burberry.com

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agency WGSN. “There is something quite understated about her style that speaks volumes. In a short space of time, the general populace love her and that in itself will make her the one to watch for immediate street style copying and the subsequent impact at the register.” That her stylist is her longtime friend Jessica Mulroney is likely why Markle’s style packs such power: Mulroney has known Markle since 2010 when Suits started filming—she encapsulates her style perfectly, having been by her side ever since. Mulroney is also the reason Markle wears so many under-the-radar Canadian brands, such as Mackage and Line. (She’s also responsible for Markle’s shift away from Herve Leger’s bandage dresses and megawatt heels: today, the Markle look is much more elegant.) As for the wedding, there’s a long list of designer names being added to the rumour mill that has not been stoked so much since the Diana days. “Who’s going to design the dress?” is a question oft-asked in the run up to a royal wedding. But the Marklefocused conversation went into overdrive at the AW18 shows. Especially at Stella McCartney; the designer sent a white lace gown: sheer and sheath-like, with long sleeves and a rounded neckline, down the runway. Classic, with a hint of modernity: how very Meghan, remarked the front row. “Could Stella be designing the wedding dress?” Meanwhile, in London, Roland Mouret was being suggested, as was Victoria Beckham and Ralph and Russo. Such is the speculation, that Ladbrokes has stopped taking bets. Who will it be? Watch this space. But one thing is certain. Not only will it influence wedding dress designs for years to come, it will catapult even the most established designers into a supersonic, sartorial hall of fame—with a supersonic sales spike to match.

JOSEPH Laurel midi skirt, £595; joseph-fashion.com

STRATHBERRY Nano leather tote bag, £325; strathberry.com

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STYLE The

Art Class

‘Why have there been no great women artists?’ is the title of art historian Linda Nochlin’s 1971 essay, a pioneering text for both feminist art history and theory, and a major source of inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior SS18 ready-to-wear collection. Artist and model Sasha Pivovarova is the face of the fashion house’s campaign, shot by Patrick Demarchelier. 160-162 New Bond St, Mayfair, W1 dior.com

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Fashion Notes Trench coats, cats-eye sunglasses and a flashback to the nineties

NEW ROMANTIC COOL FOR CATS

Retro cats-eye sunglasses have made a major comeback as the accessory of the season. This time around they are much smaller and narrow in shape which gives a futuristic look. Best in show is the ‘Marianne’ by Illesteva (£170) available in a rainbow of colours.

Staying true to their signature aesthetic, bohemian romanticism underpins Zimmermann’s SS18 collection which was inspired by holidays on Australia’s Gold Coast during the 60s. Ditzy floral prints and flirty silhouettes make for the perfect vacation wardrobe.

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Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

All White Now

The late Diana, Princess of Wales was one of Jimmy Choo’s most devoted customers and the surprise inspiration behind the Off-White™ Spring Summer collaboration. Virgil Abloh’s nine-strong capsule includes 80s style quilted boots, strappy satin sandals and the stars of the show; the ‘Claire 100’ pumps (above, £850) wrapped in clear PVC to look like modern day glass slippers.

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Fashion history

A FITTING TRIBUTE To mark the 20th anniversary of her brother Gianni Versace’s death, Donatella showed a SS18 collection inspired by Gianni’s most iconic creations from the early nineties. Gold mesh gowns, butterfly prints, medusa heads, studded leather and safety pins were by worn by the original supermodels – Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer who all returned to the catwalk to pay tribute to the late designer.

183-184 Sloane St, Belgravia, SW1; versace.com

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PLASTIC FANTASTIC

Fashion’s current It-bag is believe it or not, a plastic bag. Céline’s covetable clear tote hit stores with a flurry of outraged tweeters and tabloids lambasting its £425 price tag, but it has won the hearts of influencers and fashion editors alike who show it off at every photo opportunity. A bag for life indeed. celine.com

FLEUR DE MAL Velvet trench coat, £1,377; farfetch.com

VIKA GAZINSKAYA Midi trench coat, £1,452; brownsfashion.com

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STYLE

RETURN OF THE MAC

The Heritage Trench Reimagined collection by Burberry

Originally designed to protect British officers during the First World War, the trench coat is now a wardrobe staple. This spring sees an update on the classic style with variations on fabrications including sheer detailing, laminate coating and plush velvet. Burberry’s collection of Heritage Trench Coats has been refreshed to comprise a new edit of three new fits — The Chelsea, The Kensington and The Westminster. The brand also recently launched Restored — a curated collection of one-of-a-kind vintage Burberry trenches dating from the Sixties to the Nineties, all individually sourced, reproofed and restored in England. Available at Dover Street Market and Browns East.

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MAISON MARGIELA Sheer trench coat, £1,865; farfetch.com

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BURBERRY Laminated trench coat, £1,895; harrods.com

VALENTINO Satin trench coat, £3,525; net-a-porter.com

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STYLE

Interview

SIMONE Storyteller Designer Simone Rocha’s collections always come with a backstory. Here, she explains how childhood innocence and china dolls informed her soft-yet-sinister SS18 narrative Words GRACE COOK Portrait ALEX FRANCO

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t’s dusk in the City of London. Light permeates through the stained glass windows of Middle Temple Hall, gently illuminating the vast space that is starting to fall under a blanket of darkness, otherwise dimly lit only by candles. Guests are ushered in from outside to take their seats in the pews under the arched ceilings. Backstage, Simone Rocha is putting the finishing touches to her spring/summer 2018 collection; she adjusts a bow, smoothes down a collar. The models are ready, trussed up in pouffy white silks trimmed with pearls. Someone yells time; the show is a go. One by one, the models charge out like deer into the stage lights that have whirred into action. There’s a moment of calm. “I like this building, it has its own character and history – it helps me to create [a show] that is immersive and atmospheric,” says Rocha of the hall that was officially opened in 1576 by Queen Elizabeth I. Out of all the designers on the London schedule, Rocha is the one renowned for her opulent venues; her shows have previously been staged in Southwark Cathedral, Lancaster House and Goldsmith’s Hall. “I like to work with a building’s existing features… The wooden walls, stained-glass windows and crested chairs here create an intimate environment which contrasts with the naive girlishness of the collection.”

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Since founding her label in 2010, the Central Saint Martins graduate has established her own hyper-real version of femininity. Her gauzy chiffon dresses and slightly ‘off ’ silhouettes are reworked into new narratives every season. Such is the allure of Rocha’s demure that she was awarded the British Fashion Council’s womenswear designer of the year award in 2016, and her dresses have been worn on the red carpet by Keira Knightley and Kate Bosworth. This season, Rocha was inspired by memories of childhood. Particularly, a toy shop in her native Dublin called the Doll Hospital – an old-fashioned store where china dolls were displayed in wooden glassfronted cabinets, and where from the age of five Rocha would go to pick her new playthings. “I always liked that their clothes and their little socks and boots were realistic,” says Rocha. “They weren’t like a Barbie.” Indeed. As a child, Rocha would slide her dolls down the staircase. “They would break because they were china,” she says. “So I would glue them back together again.” The collection takes its cue from the naivety and fragility of childhood, with dresses reminiscent of Elizabethan nightgowns associated with the traditional nursery. “SS18 was a reaction to my previous autumn/winter collection, which was all about armour and protection,” she says. “I felt drawn to something softer.” Stark white

silks and taffetas have been reworked into puffed-sleeve, buttoned-up dresses trimmed with oversized frills, while crisp broderie anglaise cottons with starched collars come with delicate tulle underskirts that gently curl around the ankles. Sheer lace-trimmed dresses are embroidered with black beaded co-joined paper dolls, like those cut from sheets of folded A4: all of the embroideries and fabrics are developed by Rocha’s in-house team. And such is the undertaking of this task, that Rocha remains one of the rare designers that doesn’t offer pre-collections. All her energy and “emotion” is dedicated to each seasonal show. “The collection reflects the innocence of being a little girl,” she says. “Girls in pearls playing with paper dolls. The use of black acts as a balance.” Adorned to the heads of each model are countless trinkets and pearls; hair slides and earrings and brooches, reminiscent of children playing dress-up with their mother’s jewellery box - the tinkling tune of which plays out as the show’s soundtrack. It’s innocent and infantile, and under Rocha’s distinct sartorial handwriting, verges on sinister. It’s perhaps understandable that Rocha is looking to childhood: the designer and her partner, cinematographer Eoin McLoughlin, became first time parents to a baby daughter, Valentine, in 2015. Since, Rocha has been inspired by pregnancy and motherhood – naturally this is the next chapter in her seasonal story. Rocha’s studio, situated on the canal in Haggerston, east London (where designers including Peter Pilotto and Roksanda are neighbours), is close to her home, so she doesn’t waste time commuting. “It’s very convenient, and it means all of my spare time can be spent with my family,” she says. “No two days are the same,” she continues, of juggling full-time work with parenting a toddler. Family is of utmost importance to the designer: her mother, Odette, was her business manager until last year; she sits front

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STYLE row at every show with Rocha’s father, the designer John Rocha. Meanwhile, McLoughlin shoots much of her imagery alongside Rocha’s roster of long-time collaborators that includes the photographers Jacob Lillis and Colin Dodgson. To coincide with each collection, Rocha unveils a new installation in her Mount Street store. Entering the shop is like falling down a Rochasized rabbit hole – the bright white space is punctuated with quirky, contemporary design details, including a freestanding changing room and acrylic cubes upon which her pearl-finished brogues and embroidered bags are placed. On the walls hang artworks by Francis Bacon – one of his triptychs was shipped over from the family’s collection in Ireland. Behind the cash register hangs an enormous black and white print by Perry Ogden, from his series ‘Pony Kids’, which documented Irish gypsy boys in Dublin’s Smithfield Market. “I remember Perry shooting this series in Ireland 20 years ago,” she says. For her spring/summer 2018 installation, Rocha created creepy, faceless versions of the dolls, that are dotted on the floor around the dresses and displayed alongside the acrylic furniture. “I worked with a cornicing studio to create handmoulded plaster sculptures inspired by the doll embroidery motif in the collection,” she says. The campaign

imagery was shot by Lillis, depicting girls in frilly nightdresses holding stacks of paper, bound together by string and tufts of red fluff. Another shows Rocha unloading a cardboard box out of a van, while the

“The collection reflects the innocence of being a little girl – girls in pearls playing with paper dolls. The use of black acts as a balance" collection hangs from rails wrapped in a protective plastic covering: Rocha’s fantastical and often eerie narratives are always grounded in some sort of reality. “I find working with collaborators expands the work into new and different paths,” she says. Eight years down the line, and Rocha is taking the brand in dynamic new directions. The designer is finally finding her feet with her commercialised accessories line that was first introduced in 2015 to coincide with the London store opening. The aforementioned hair clips – which are covered in clusters of pearls and retail from £75 – have completely sold out, and have

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been touted as the must-have accessory of the season, having been worn by the likes of Alexa Chung. Last year, the brand opened its second store, located on Wooster Street in New York; it sits alongside Céline and Mansur Gavriel. To date, her designs are stocked in Dover Street Market and Browns, as well as 10 Corso Como in Milan, Seoul and Shanghai, and her brand has been profitable since day one – the result of a clever distribution strategy (spearheaded by Rocha’s mother) to build accounts with independent retailers before taking on larger department stores. Thus far, 2018 has seen Rocha travel to Milan for Moncler’s newly unveiled Genius project, where she was tasked with reinterpreting the brand’s signature down jacket. Naturally, Rocha took inspiration from photographs of Victorian climbers in petticoats, offering goose down garments that were voluminous, feminine and resolutely Rocha – this time rendered all in black. One thing is clear – Simone Rocha is a sartorial poet. Her world is at once gothic and romantic, fragile yet fierce, sinister yet sweet. Just where will the threads of her narrative take us next? Who knows. But as the show comes to a close, judging by the raucous applause echoing around the hall, it’s sure to be a much-loved tale – one that delves into Simone’s subconscious, and back again. 93 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 simonerocha.com

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TheNEW

SEASON TREND REPORT

Style writer and author Harriet Quick reveals all the key trends from the politically engaged and empowering SS18 shows Fashion CHARLOTTE ADSETT

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STYLE

F

ashion is forever a palette cleanser. In politically troubling times, the spring runways offered a much-needed boost of optimism that served to distract from – and sometimes add commentary on the anxieties of the day. As an antidote to the sobriety of reality, this season the runways were awash with glorious technicolour, from saccharine shades to Pop Art prints and rainbow with patterns that embrace diversity. Feminism was much on the mind of designers too: at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri sent models out wearing sweaters emblazoned with empowering slogans and Miuccia Prada’s collection was, she said, “interested in someone who can be active and present today”. Even the Queen, dressed in an pale blue skirt suit, made a surprise appearance at London Fashion Week for the very first time earlier this year. This is spring/summer 2018, and positive 'actions' not just gestures reigned supreme. Phoebe Philo summarised the upbeat mood best: “If there is anything to say at the moment, let it be with love. Let it be joyful.” Even trends inspired by the USA were joyful. As the nation goes through one of the most politically troublesome eras in modern history, its pop cultural history proved ripe for inspiration. An appetite for red, white and blue; for stars and stripes; for quarterback shoulders and Dynasty-inspired diva gowns flooded the runways. Cowboys were reinvented at Coach and Calvin Klein, where new boy Raf Simons channelled old-school Americana with silk Western shirts and Rodeo-ready boots. Spring ushered in a new season pastel palette. Delicious ice-cream shades of blueberry, parma-violet, lemon sorbet and minty greens were worn tonally. In her penultimate collection for Céline, Phoebe Philo mixed buttery-lemon knife-pleat skirts with sharp, powdery-pink blazers; at Preen, whisper-thin chiffons and crisp suiting came in shades of pistachio, lavender and ice blue. New York wonder brand Sies Marjan mixed his with vivacious shades of acidic tangerine that made his pastels ever the more delicate and mouth-watering – much like a macaron.

“If there is anything to say at the moment, let it be with love. Let it be joyful.” PHOEBE PHILO, CÉLINE

Art is a constant inspiration and the leaning is towards the optically stimulating. Designers took reference from the Op-Art movement pioneered by painter Bridget Riley and rediscovered the punkish works of contemporary visual artist Jim Lambie via geometrical patterning. Find stripy asymmetric frocks at Preen; mindboggling swirling diagonals at Céline and clubhouse stripes at Gabriela Hearst. Meanwhile, other designers looked to Pop Art. Miuccia Prada showed coats, bags and skirts covered in comic book graphics; Versace re-purposed Andy Warhol’s Marilyn screen prints and 1980s Vogue covers patterning everything from shift dresses to jeans through to crystal encrusted boots. Over at Coach, and Stuart Vevers used the late Pop Artist Keith Haring’s graffiti-style works across silk dresses and boxy leather jackets. At Moschino, Jeremy Scott – the prince of pop fashion – emblazoned My Little Pony graphics across T-shirts and swimsuits for those nostalgic for the heyday of Kawaii culture. And of course, spring wouldn’t be spring without a floral. Emilia Wickstead was English country garden party ready, with wallpaper flowers appearing across ruffled Edwardian midi dresses and puffed sleeve chiffon gowns. Meanwhile, there was the most divine line-up of florals at Erdem, delicately embroidered with glinting crystals on 1940s-style dresses fit for a high tea, or else woven into metallic jacquards. London newcomer, Richard Quinn (winner of the first Queen Elizabeth II Fashion Award) wowed with his grand scale mismatched zingy flower prints that blossomed over decadent duchess satin gowns and trapeze-line dresses worn over matching leggings. Trust Rodarte to take the English garden theme literally: the designers sent their models out through a maze of floral-encrusted hedges, wearing headdresses and stoles made of freshly picked gypsophila. A runway so pretty proved the perfect distraction from worldly politics – temporarily, anyway.

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FLORAL

The English country garden came to the runway with bouquets of striking floral prints from the likes of Richard Quinn, Rodarte and Emilia Wickstead

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

ERDEM

FLOWER POWER

Main image: VALENTINO FROM TOP LEFT CLOCKWISE: VIOLET WREN Silk satin turban, £70; violetandwren.co.uk SELF-PORTRAIT Crepe-de-chine dress, £350; self-portrait-studio.com GUCCI Silk flora snake trousers, £725; farfetch.com PRADA Brocade silk crop top, £695; matchesfashion.com DOLCE & GABBANA Rose resin earrings, £255; dolcegabbana.com JENNIFER BEHR Faye set of two Swarovski crystal hair slides, £140; net-a-porter.com DOLCE & GABBANA Rose patch ruched dress, £2,500; farfetch.com HALPERN Jacquard jacket, £2,055; matchesfashion.com GUCCI Allie leather sandals, £640; matchesfashion.com

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CÉLINE

SWEET DREAMS

SIES MARJAN

PASTELS

CHANEL

From pistachio and strawberry to parma violet and lemon sorbet, designers brought the ice cream parlour to the catwalk with sorbet soft shades inspiring a new pastel palette

FROM TOP LEFT CLOCKWISE: RODARTE Lace blouse, £2,404; net-a-porter.com ALESSANDRA RICH Wool blazer, £2,160; matchesfashion.com JENNIFER BEHR Satin bow barette, £128; mytheresa.com ELLERY Emmeline top, £480; net-a-porter.com CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Pigalle Follies patent pumps, £495; christianlouboutin.com MICHAEL LO SORDO Silk maxi skirt, £452; themodist.com THE ROW Ascot satin bag, £800; mytheresa.com GUCCI Suede crystal pumps £885; gucci.com MARCO DE VINCENZO Silk blouse, £535; brownsfashion.com ILLESTEVA Marianne sunglasses, £170; net-a-porter.com THE VAMPIRES WIFE Festival cord dress, £595; thevampireswife.com GUCCI Allie leather sandals, £640; matchesfashion.com

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STRIPES

GET IN LINE

New rules were laid down by Preen, Fendi and Gabriela Hearst - with bold stripes and solid bars reshaping fine lines, and giving a modern edge to a timeless trend

Main image: FENDI FROM TOP LEFT CLOCKWISE: PRADA Patent leather slingback pumps £640; mytheresa.com ROSIE ASSOULIN Waffle-knit cashmere trousers, £795; net-a-porter.com MARQUES’ ALMEIDA Curb-chain leather bag, £565; matchesfashion.com EMILIA WICKSTEAD Kena maxi skirt, £2,382; modaoperandi.com FENDI Satin jaquard blazer, £2,020; fendi.com TEMPERLEY LONDON Bella ruffle dress, £695; temperleylondon.com

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CAROLINA HERRERA MOTHER OF PEARL

POLKA DOTS

Well SPOTTED Surprisingly versatile and elegant, polka dots are set to be summer's definitive print. From ditsy to super-sized, it's time to join up the dots

Main image; ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER FROM TOP LEFT CLOCKWISE: PETAR PETROV Edda silk-organza blouse, £670; net-a-porter.com GANNI Silk-organza skirt, £390; selfridges.com MAISON MICHEL Kiki felt boater, £520; mytheresa.com DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Silk crepe-de-chine mini dress £370; net-a-porter.com MICHAEL KORS Georgette trousers, £150; michaelkors.com BALENCIAGA Knife satin pumps £695; matchesfashion.com CAROLINA HERRERA Satin-jacquard midi skirt £1,330; net-a-porter.com SELF PORTRAIT Satin top, £240; modaoperandi.com

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PRADA

POP ART

ART ATTACK VERSACE

VERSACE

Pop culture was king for designers keen to make a statement, from Versace’s Andy Warhol dresses to comic-book prints at Prada and Coach’s homage to Keith Haring. Wear it loud and proud

FROM TOP LEFT CLOCKWISE: GUCCI Broadway glitter resin bag, £2,960; gucci.com CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Jersey Vamp sandal, £965; christianlouboutin.com ANYA HINDMARCH Leather sticker, £55; anyahindmarch.com VERSACE Vogue print jeans, £980; versace.com MOSCHINO Betty Boop swimsuit, £155; net-a-porter.com CELINE Cat-eye sunglasses, £290; matchesfashion.com ANYA HINDMARCH Leather sticker £45; anyahindmarch.com PRADA Cotton shirt, £695; mytheresa.com PRADA Comic-print leather bag, £1,540; matchesfashion.com PRADA Cotton blouse, £605; mytheresa.com DOLCE & GABBANA Brocade headband, £195; dolcegabbana.com

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Glos


professional hair, care & styling www.balmainhair.com

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Erdem

ERDEM 'Fineena' jacquard top, £1,035; 'Hebe' jacquard skirt, £1,430; 'Farida' jacquard kitten heels, £485; erdem.com DEBEERS 'Lotus' white gold and diamond ring, £5,200; debeers.co.uk SIMONE ROCHA Pearl clip, £120; mytheresa.com

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New

The

C O L L E C T I O N S Meet the standout pieces from this season's key designers Photography BILLIE SCHEEPERS Fashion THEA LEWIS-YATES

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VALENTINO

VALENTINO Silk dress, £3,185; Sequined leather heels, £1,040; Silk scarf, £315; valentino.com JESSICA McCORMACK Gold and sapphire hoop earrings, £12,800; jessicamccormack.com

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DELPOZO Fil-coupe & tulle gown dress, £4,850 at Harrods VAN CLEEF & ARPELS White gold & diamond necklace, POA MARIA TASH Single diamond earring, £237 Diamond eternity earring £383 Diamond & single spike earring, £524 at Liberty BOODLES White & pink diamond ring, £10,000 DIOR JOAILLERIE White gold & white diamond ring, £9,800 White gold, diamond & mother-of-pearl ring, £2,500

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JOSEPH JOSEPH 'Dario' chintz cotton jacket, £795; 'Ruben' chintz cotton shirt, £345; 'Ivo' chintz cotton skirt, £345; joseph-fashion.com SIMONE ROCHA Pearl clip, £120; mytheresa.com

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Dior

DIOR Tulle dress, £10,500; Knitted shorts (worn underneath), £680; dior.com ARA VARTANIAN Gold, pearl and diamond earrings, £6,900; aravartanian.com

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HERMÈS HERMÈS Cotton jacket, £3,340; Cotton trousers, £1,320; 'Ross' calfskin sandals, £1,450; hermes.com ARA VARTANIAN Gold, opal and diamond earrings (one of two), £POA; aravartanian.com

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PRADA Cotton poplin shirt, £415; Silk brocade top, £735; Cotton trousers, £695; prada.com SIMONE ROCHA Pearl clip, £120; mytheresa.com

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EMILIA WICKSTEAD EMILIA WICKSTEAD Hat, £POA; Bib, £POA; Cloqué jacket, £995; Cloqué trousers, £550; emiliawickstead.com MESSIKA 'My Twin’ rose gold and diamond ring, £5,950; messika.com

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Ellery

ELLERY Ruffle sleeved dress, £585; 'Orlanda' trousers, £680; brownsfashion.com TABITHA SIMMONS Satin shoes, £468; tabithasimmons.com BOUCHERON 'Serpent Boheme' gold and diamond ring set (left), £3,000; 'Serpent Boheme' gold and mother of pearl ring set (right), £1,440; boucheron.com ARA VARTANIAN Gold, crystal and black diamond earrings,£5,200; aravartanian.com

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SIMONE ROCHA SIMONE ROCHA Satin shirt-dress, £995; Pearl clip, £120; mytheresa.com

PHOTOGRAPHY Billie Scheepers STYLIST Thea Lewis-Yates MODEL Anna Chowela at Premier Model Management MAKE-UP ARTIST Alex Babsky at Premier Hair and Make-up HAIR STYLIST David Wadlow at Premier Hair and Make-up MANICURE Cherrie Snow using Kure Bazaar CASTING At Casting SET DESIGN Fred Allsop DIGITAL ARTWORK Adi Admoni PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT Jonny Faulkner STYLING ASSISTANT Ashley Conor With special thanks to Sunbeam Studios

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Stephen Webster Salon Second Floor, 130 Mount Street, London W1K 3NY 0203 298 0970

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STYLE

The he

CROWN

Jewels J Je wellss wel

Dazzling diamonds and pearls fit for a princess Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CENTRE: HOUSE OF GARRARD Crown, Price on application; garrard.com VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Necklace, Price on application; vancleefarpels.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE: BENTLEY & SKINNER Brooch, £14,750 bentley-skinner.co.uk HARRY WINSTON Ring, Price on application; harrywinston.com DI GRISOGONO Ring, Price on application; degrisogono.com BOODLES Ring, £11,500; boodles.com DAVID MORRIS Earrings, Price on application; davidmorris.com DOLCE & GABBANA Bag, £5,750; harrods.com WILLIAM & SON Earrings, £14,490; williamandson.com PATEK PHILIPPE Watch, £43,660; patek.com GRAFF DIAMONDS Ring, Price on application; graffdiamonds.com STEPHEN WEBSTER Ring, £14,300; stephenwebster.com JESSICA MCCORMACK Ring, £33,500; jessicamccormack.com

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A fresh start for your skin.

Make a radiant start to the new season with the Dr Sebagh daily skin care ritual. Restore your glow

Hydrate and brighten

Give your skin a beautiful start for spring with the award-winning Dr Sebagh skin care ritual, created by Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, worldrenowned cosmetic doctor and ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ pioneer.

A luxurious, multi-tasking moisturiser with a difference, High Maintenance Cream helps to rejuvenate, replenish, hydrate and protect all skin types. It leaves skin with a velvety matte finish, providing the perfect base for make-up.

Super-serums include the iconic Rose de Vie Serum, with soothing, antioxidant rosehip oil to leave skin supple and radiant, and potent Supreme Maintenance Youth Serum, with 95% active ingredients. Dr Sebagh serums can be used alone or blended, for a bespoke daily ritual.

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For an extra brightening boost, mix a little of the innovative Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream with your favourite Dr Sebagh serum or moisturiser. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

07/04/2018 11:13


BEAUTY The

& WELLNESS

Remaking Mademoiselle Marking ten years as the face of Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle, actress Keira Knightley returns to front the campaign for Coco Mademoiselle Intense. Created by in-house nose Olivier Polge, whose father created the 2001 original, this is a captivatingly deeper update. For more new spring fragrances, turn to our edit on page 72. Coco Mademoiselle Intense, £116 chanel.com

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Beauty Notes Jade rollers, J-Beauty and vegan skincare plus Erdem’s floral inspired collection

Crystal Clear

Jade and quartz facial rollers have been around since at least the 7th century in China but it’s only now that the rest of the world is waking up to their unique beauty benefits. Rolling helps to detoxify, de-puff and improve the skin’s elasticity, while the crystals’ healing powers are believed to absorb negative energies. We’re hooked.

herbivorebotanicals.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

Golden Girl

Banish pasty skin with Dr Sebagh’s clever new Self-Tanning Drops (£35), which deliver golden colour and include special ingredient HEV Melanin to help protect skin against the ageing effects of damaging High Energy Visible (HEV) light from blue screens. Mix 2-3 drops with your usual moisturiser and in just a few hours you’ll have a natural-looking, radiant glow.

drsebagh.com

Brand to Bookmark

EASTERN PROMISE With J-Beauty (Japanese beauty) set to overtake K-Beauty (Korean beauty) as the cult buzz trend, expect a return to more traditional scientific brands combined with nature. Blazing the trail is Decorté – Japan’s best-selling skincare and make-up brand, now available here exclusively at Selfridges. Supermodel approval comes from their muse Kate Moss, whose favourite product is the multi-functional Vitality Tincture: “It just makes your skin look and feel amazing. I’m obsessed with it.”

Decorté at selfridges.com

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Green Glow

Luxe vegan probiotic skincare range Orveda, which fuses active plant ingredients with future-forward biotechnology, arrived in the UK last summer and sold out at Harvey Nichols four times. The Prebiotic Emulsion (£280) was developed with a plastic surgeon, and can be used as a serum, a moisturiser and a weekly treatment with a silicon mask, which is unique in its reusability. Available now at orveda.com and at Harvey Nichols in May

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Make-up

Picture Perfect

Petal Power

Nars has collaborated with long-time fashion designer partner Erdem Moralioglu to create a dreamy floral-inspired make-up range. Titled ’Strange Flowers’, the 13-piece capsule collection brings his nostalgic romance to beauty with lipstick, eyeshadow, blusher, an opalescent highlighter pencil and blotting papers. Our favourite is the Lip Powder Poison Rose Palette (£35, above), which includes four powders and a priming balm. Erderm x Nars available from Nars boutiques and Selfridges

nars.com

Charlotte Tilbury’s Hollywood Flawless Filter (£30) is a super-creamy, illuminating multiuse liquid unlike quite anything we’ve tried before. A hybrid mix of foundation, primer and highlighter, it blurs imperfections and offers a luminous, soft-focus finish for A-list skin. Available in seven versatile shades, you can wear it under, over or instead of foundation. A product that definitely lives up to the hype – it’s a make-up bag essential that is the perfect companion to Charlotte’s just released limited-edition Beauty Filter range. Inspired by the glossy finish of social media filters, the collection includes two eyeshadow palettes, blushhighlight duos sold with a contour curve brush, a collagen-enhanced lip gloss and a game-changing mascara. With over 500% more volume after one application, Legendary Lashes Volume 2 will make fans of the label’s original best-selling formula rejoice. Time to get selfie ready. charlottetilbury.com

Show Your Colours

The king of colour, Josh Wood, has launched an at-home toolkit covering colouring and maintenance – powered by a digital colour matching service. PPD and ammonia-free, the Josh Wood Colour System is designed to help you stretch the time between hairdresser appointments with permanent colours, semi-permanent glosses and touch-up tools; there are three on-the-spot troubleshooters for grey roots; a Blending Brush (£15), Root Smudger (£12), and Root Marker (£8), plus a Tinted Dry Shampoo (£10). How-to videos and digital consultations make choosing the right products for you a breeze. Josh Wood Atelier, 6 Lansdowne Mews, Holland Park, W11; joshwood.com

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New trends

Glossy Get

From luminous, glazed skin to azure eyes and wet-look hair, say hello to SS18’s freshest beauty updates

CROWNING GLORY Crystal crowns and embellished clips stole the show this season – most notably at Dolce & Gabbana, where every model sported some form of bejewelled hair accessory. Equally standout were the pearly queens at Simone Rocha, with deep side-partings held in place by pretty, pearl-encrusted slides. For something slightly more low-key, take your cue from mane maestro Guido, who finished sleek, polished blowdries at Versace with faceframing gilded barrettes. With hair as well dressed as this, an expensive looking sheen is mandatory – easily achieved with... SIMONE ROCHA SS18

DOLCE & GABBANA SS18

Words SOPHIE QURESHI

GUCCI Gold-plated headband, £795; net-a-porter.com DOLCE & GABBANA Embellished headband, £845; mytheresa.com LIVING PROOF Perfect Hair Day 5-in-1 Styling Treatment, £24 OUAI Smooth Spray, £22 SIMONE ROCHA Faux-pearl and crystal-embellished hair clip, £120; matchesfashion.com

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS VERSUS SS18

LINE UP Black eyeliner – the sartorial staple – sees some inspired updates this season, with executions ranging from the elegant to the experimental. At Erdem, Val Garland created a twist on the classic feline flick by starting the line only from the centre of the eye, while at Versus, Charlotte Tilbury drew bold, punky lines, referencing the signature strokes of Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse. Rochas, Eudon Choi and Christiano Burani were somewhat more surreal, with almond-shaped hoops and whimsical squiggles. The only rule? Let your liner lead. ‘There is nothing cooler than something unbelievably well-crafted against ‘nothing’’, says make-up artist Lyne Desnoyers. ‘There are so many moods that eyeliner can project – strength, rebellion, glamour. Wearing it is a very considered choice.’ CHANEL Pinceau Eyeliner Brush, £23 CHANEL Calligraphie Intense Cream Eyeliner, £25 TOM FORD Eye Defining Pen in Deeper, £45 YVES SAINT LAURENT Couture Eye Marker, £26

MAC FOR PRABAL GURUNG SS18

GLASS SKIN The ‘glass skin’ trend originated in Korea but it was all over the catwalks this season – at Mary Katrantzou, Victoria Beckham and Anya Hindmarch, complexions looked so healthy, even toned, and plumped with hydration, they were almost translucent, like shards of glass. Unlike the recent strobing craze, this isn’t about loading on shimmer. ‘It’s more about a cellophane shine that gives skin an inner radiance,’ says make-up maestro Val Garland. Backstage, the pros relied on MAC Mixing Medium Shine, £16.50, but Val shared an easy trick for creating the glazed look off the runway. ‘Apply your highlighter, then take some moisturiser or serum and pat it on top of your make-up with fingertips. This creates a shine that looks like real skin, instead of obvious pearlescent glitter.’ LA MER Genaissance de la mer serum £440 BOBBI BROWN All Over Glow, £29 SENSAI Highlighting Concealer, £32 LAURA MERCIER Liquid Face Illuminator in Addiction, £29

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PHILOSHOPY DI LORENZO SERAFINI SS18

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

HIGH SHINE Matte lips have dominated for what feels like forever, but this season’s catwalks made a pretty convincing case for a high-shine pout. Take Chanel’s glossy orange-red lips or the cherry-pop pouts at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini – youthful and fresh, in a way that a matte mouth never can be. Instead of swiping on gloss straight from the tube, use your fingertip to dab it onto the centre of your lips and let it migrate outwards. Or steal make-up artist Tom Pecheaux’s trick: ‘Apply a lipstick or stain first and then a clear gloss on top. It gives a much more juicy effect than using a coloured gloss and it doesn’t look gloopy or heavy.’

JASON WU SS18

CHANEL Rouge Coco Gloss in Living Orange 802, £28 CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Loubibelle Lip Beauty Oil, £55 MARIMEKKO X CLINIQUE Pop Splash Lip Gloss + Hydration in Watermelon Pop, £17

GET WET Next time you get caught in a downpour without an umbrella, just say you’re channelling Alexander McQueen. Stylist Guido Palau drenched hair with gel, sculpting strands so that they stuck to the models’ faces. He created a less extreme wet look at Alberta Ferretti, using liberal doses of mousse to give a wet texture to simple folded ponytails. ‘Just before the girls walk the show, I add a spritz of Redken Shine Flash 02 for a high shine finish. I’m softening the hair around the ears and hairline so you get a more romantic wet look.’ Still not ready to take the plunge? Go for a two-texture look like at Blumarine, where the models’ hair was slick and wet-look at the roots, but soft and blowdried at the bottom. MR SMITH Serum, £38 REDKEN Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist, £15.50 HAIR BY SAM MCKNIGHT Modern Hairspray, £22

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DAKS SS18

BOY BROW’S The brow obsession isn’t going anywhere. On the Spring catwalks they were (literally) out in full – brushed-up, bushy and decidedly boyish. So if you’ve spent years trying to coax yours into a perfect, tapered arch, now’s the time to cancel your threading appointments and embrace their fulsome glory. At Joseph, make-up artist Lynsey Alexander championed an athletic aesthetic, with handsome squared-off brows lending models an androgynous quality, while at Daks, brows were sketched in and brushed upwards to show off every individual hair. It seems we’re finally seeing the end of the heavy stencilled Insta-brow – which can only be a good thing. ‘A full, brushed-up brow is much more youthful,’ says backstage regular and NARS UK Make-up Artist Ambassador Andrew Gallimore. ‘It frames the face but has a softness that is far more flattering.’ GLOSSIER Boy Brow, £14 ANASTASIA Beverly Hills Brow Wiz, £22 BAREMINERALS Brow Powder, £15

MARNI SS18

TRUE BLUE It might feel slightly out of your comfort zone but that’s precisely what’s so appealing about a streak of blue across your lids. It embodies this season’s go-forit attitude – spontaneous, spirited and free. Take your inspiration from Marni’s graphic blocks of royal blue and House of Holland’s soft turquoise washes. ‘The way to make blue current is to be flippant with it,’ says Val Garland. ‘It’s cool to be imperfect and daub on the colour with your fingertip.’ For something less daunting but equally eye-brightening, dip your toe in the big blue with a sweep of Dior’s new liquid liners – set against bare lids, they make any eye colour pop. DOLCE & GABBANA Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Indaco, £27 DIORSHOW On Stage Liner in Matte Pop Blue 261 and Pearly Turquoise 351, £26 NARS Eye Paint in Solomon Islands, £19 MAC Pigment in Marine Ultra, £16.50

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g n i r Sp CENTS S

IX F N O S SEA E LATEST W E N UR IT OF TH O Y T E G SES D A E E R L U E O ER C N A WITH R R F AG SETT

AD LOTTE

y CHAR piled b

Com

TOM FORD SOLEIL BLANC Eau de parfum, 50ml

e latest addition to the Private Blend Collection is inspired by ‘remote tropical islands where summer lasts all year’ with sparkling citrus notes and warm amber tones.

£158

selfridges.com

DIPTYQUE FLEUR DE PEAU Eau de parfum, 75ml

CHANEL

A new 50th anniversary release, this elegant powdery aroma is infused with so, cottony musk and pink peppercorn, floral iris, and sweet seed extracts from hibiscus flowers.

While remaining true to the original, a higher proportion of patchouli leaves alongside tonka bean and vanilla results in a more sensual, deep scent with extreme character.

diptyqueparis.co.uk

chanel.com

COCO MADEMOISELLE INTENSE Eau de parfum, 100ml

£115

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£116

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

LOUIS VUITTON LE JOUR SE LÈVE Eau de parfum, 50ml

e eighth scent from master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud was craed to capture the essence of sunrise with a fruity-floral combination of mandarin, blackcurrant, jasmine and magnolia.

£185

uk.louisvuitton.com

JO MALONE

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BLU MEDITERRANO CHINOTTO DI LIGURIA Eau de toilette spray, 150ml

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With a heart note of jasmine samba, top notes of marigold and base notes of ylang ylang and vanilla, this upliing cologne conjures the vibrancy of an Indian flower market.

e latest addition to the Blu Mediterrano family features chinotto (the rarest citrus fruit) alongside jasmine, geranium, rosemary and cardamon for a refreshing spritz evocative of carefree holidays on the Almalfi Coast.

Infused with bold notes of rhubarb, patchouli, cedar, amber, incense, and of course violet, this intoxicating and unusual scent will delight niche fragrance fans.

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£115

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VIO-VOLTA Eau de parfum, 50ml

£139

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Interview

Na t ura l SELECTION Forget the fads – healthy living needn’t be hard work, says wellness expert Calgary Avansino Words ALEXANDRA JONES

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

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sunny Californian, Calgary Avansino is almost singlehandedly responsible for introducing London’s fashion elite to West Coaststyle wellbeing. In 2000, aged 25, she and her husband decamped from LA to London, where she landed a job as assistant to then-editor of British Vogue, Alexandra Shulman. “I was - probably a little naively expecting yoga and green juices to be as big in London as they were in LA at the time,” she says with a laugh. But with her vegetarian packed lunches and 6am workouts, she was very much the exception, not the rule. Within a few years she rose through the ranks of the title and started writing a weekly wellness column for Vogue.com. When it became a big traffic draw, she knew she was on to something. She left the magazine in 2013 and has since launched a successful wellness website and written a celebrated tome, Keep It Real. “I never thought, ‘This is what I want to do’,” she says, “it was just something I always did.” How would you describe your food and wellness philosophy? [American author and journalist] Michael Pollan has a great quote: “Don’t eat anything your great-grandmother wouldn’t recognise.” I think the most important thing to remember is that we are meant to be eating what I call ‘real’ food; food that comes from the earth, that grows on trees, that’s planted in the ground. Somehow we have gotten used to the idea that food is highly processed and comes out of packages and plastic. I think we’re seeing the horrible effects of 50 years of eating processed, empty calories that don’t give our bodies any nutrients. Obesity, type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure - they’re all linked to the food that we’re eating. I just believe in fuelling our bodies with natural produce that gives us energy, stamina, intellectual focus, fewer mood swings… all these things are directly related. You were raised vegetarian? Yes, my parents were both really athletic and loved cooking at home, so from a young age I was immersed in that. And I think everyone needs to eat less meat. I don’t think everyone needs to be 100% vegetarian or vegan but if you look at the environmental impact of the meat industry and the effect of too much animal protein in your diet - both are hugely negative. And there’s that whole cult around protein…

Exactly! Firstly, we don’t need as much protein as people say we do. And secondly, you can absolutely get enough from plantbased sources. Everything from walnuts to spinach, chia seeds and tofu - there’s plenty of ways to get protein. You started working at Vogue in 2000 and since then there’s been a huge shift in the way we think about food... Huge! Especially in England. When did you first start to notice that change take place? I vividly remember telling colleagues about quinoa early on and they’d be like, ‘What is that? What are you talking about?’ I’d try and explain that it was like rice, but with more protein and then five years later it appeared in Waitrose. I just watched it with a smile. I think some people felt like wellness was something they needed to struggle against. Like having a green juice wasn’t particularly cool, until all of a sudden it was. I also always had things like nuts, fruit and coconut flakes as snacks back when the best you could get was crisps. I remember people thinking I was so strange, delving into my desk drawer and coming out with these odd snacks. But slowly, it became more of a thing - and we’re talking seven years later. It’s a movement of mentality; it’s more people thinking, ‘I’m going to take care of myself. That would have been around the time of the size zero debate - how did that impact on you, as someone who was working within fashion, but also had an interest in food and wellness? I think the most positive thing that came out of all of that was the shift from skinny to strong. Women are now more focused on building strength and stamina. Obviously people still want to lose weight, but there’s a difference. It’s not like they’re saying all I want to be is skinny. It’s like they want to feel good, and have a good attitude towards what they’re eating and how they’re working out. What made you decide to make the move from fashion to wellness? It was a few things. I started writing a blog for Vogue.com which came from people in the office asking me a million questions about what I was eating and what workouts I was doing. I started writing a ‘something to try’ column once a week and it got a lot of traffic. By that point I’d been at Vogue for 15 years, so I decided to take a

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contributing editor role and focus more on the wellness. It was really scary as I didn’t know whether anyone would want to hear what I was saying. And you now live full-time in California. What are the main differences between there and the UK in terms of wellness? Exercise in California is a social activity and it’s one tip that I always offer people: make exercise a way of socialising. Catch-up while going for a walk or after spin. I think shifting the focus away from the pub once in a while is never a bad idea. Any other tips that you would offer if someone wanted to adopt your philosophy? Take an honest look in your kitchen. If you look around and think ‘whoa, 60% of my food is processed’, then you have to be ready to take steps to change that. We’re not machines, we’re living, breathing organisms that respond to natural, nutrient-rich foods. Once that’s done, everything else falls into place. Because without tons of processed food, you eliminate extra sugar, you’re cooking more, and pretty quickly, you’ll start to feel better. It really will have an impact on everything. calgaryavansino.com

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GLOSSARY BEST FOOD FARMACY KITCHEN I think it’s the first place that showed that plantbased meals can be incredibly chic and a fun night out. It has an amazing bar and good quality food. It makes plant-based a special event and I love that. 74 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W2; farmacylondon.com BEST FOR ZEN TRIYOGA You walk in and there’s a big sign that reads: ‘Turn your phone off’. It immediately makes it so calm and zen. I think somewhere that creates that kind of atmosphere should be celebrated. Various locations; triyoga.co.uk BEST WORKOUT PSYCLE It’s the closest thing to [LA-based] SoulCycle, and is as good. It’s such an amazing, upbeat, complete-body workout, which I absolutely adore. Various locations; psyclelondon.com BEST CHEAP EAT THE GOOD LIFE EATERY They’re trying to change our idea of fast food by opening lots of stores selling delicious, convenient food that’s really good for you. Various locations; goodlifeeatery.com BEST FRAGRANCE SANA JARDIN This is a London-based fragrance brand that helps to support the women in Morocco who create the fragrances. It’s the first perfume company that I’ve found that’s completely transparent, and I think it’s really admirable. Available at Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, Knightsbridge, SW1; sanajardin.com

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CREATEVICTORIA.COM #novafood @createvictoria

Discover London’s most exciting new culinary destination, with 17 innovative restaurants and outdoor seating in a stunning public realm.

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FOOD & DRINK

Taking Root Last year, Petersham Nurseries launched a homewares shop, introducing its English country garden aesthetic to central London. This April, it’s expanding with an à la carte restaurant, The Petersham, and all-day restaurant, La Goccia. The latter will specialise in aperativo and small plate ‘cicchetti’, bringing botanical cocktails and Petersham Nursery-grown salad leaves to Covent Garden. 27-31 King Street, Covent Garden, WC2 petershamnurseries.com

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Tasting Notes The latest openings and the places to know across the capital Compiled by RACHEL WALKER

A class act

The Coach, a restored 18th-century pub hidden down a side street in Clerkenwell, features a stunning glass extension that bathes the groundfloor dining room in sunlight. Upstairs is a picture of 1920s elegance, topped-off by the joyous revival of Pousse Rapière, an Armagnac liqueur aperitif. Chef Henry Harris’ grilled rabbit with mustard sauce has become an instant classic. 26-28 Ray Street, Clerkenwell, EC1 thecoachclerkenwell.co.uk

REVELLERS’ REVIVAL

In a pretty pickle The larder shelves stacked with preserves give away chef Ramael Scully’s passion for pickling. It provides the foundation for dishes at his St James restaurant – the first solo venture for the former Ottolenghi head chef. Dishes are spiked with lycheee sriracha and sprout sambal, ensuring that plates taste as lively and bright as the pantry shelves suggest. 4 St James’s Market, St James’, SW1

scullyrestaurant.com

Sunday best

Warm up

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN Since opening in January, Sabor has become the hottest Spanish restaurant in town – but it’s just ramped-up the temperature with the launch of its asador wood-fired oven. Head up the spiral staircase to discover a touch of authentic Spain in Soho, with whole Segovian suckling pig (£190) bringing rural feasting to the city. 35-37 Heddon Street, Mayfair, W1 saborrestaurants.co.uk

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Since it first opened its doors in 1867, Soho institution Kettner’s has had various guises, but a two-year makeover by the Soho House team has breathed life back into the building – relaunching it under the name Kettner’s Townhouse. The sympathetic restoration has preserved the original mosaic tiled floor in the stunning Champagne bar, which is softly lit with French glass and well-stocked with R de Ruinart Brut (£20 per flute, including three Carlingford rocks Oysters). The restaurant harks back to its roots (it opened under Auguste Kettner, alleged chef to Napoleon III) so expect fresh and bright brasserie-style dining, with bitter leaf salads, croque monsieur and the signature Kettner’s omelette – très chic, non? 29 Romilly Street, Soho, W1 kettnerstownhouse.com

FIRE IT UP

Tomos Parry found inspiration for popular new launch Brat when travelling round the Basque country. He fell in love with cooking on an open fire wood grill – an art form that he’s bringing to east London. Expect seasonal dishes like cedar wood sea trout with Jersey cream and river herbs, washed down with sherry from an exciting list by Noble Rot. 4 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, E1 bratrestaurant.com

Trade in a traditional roast for the Sunday-only tasting menu at Launceston Place (£54, optional wine pairing £34). The reservations are filling-up fast – and no wonder. Each month chef Ben Murphy creates an exquisite menu, centred round a different meat; April is ‘lamb’. Finish with a stroll round nearby Hyde Park for a winning weekend. 1a Launceston Place, Kensington, W8 launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk

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FOOD & DRINK

Barfly

Tall story

THE BLIND PIG SPEAKEASY

258 Poland Street, Soho, W1 socialeatinghouse.com

BRINGING THE HOUSE DOWN

Remember the Butterbeer in Harry Potter? Now’s your chance to give it a try, thanks to the next chapter in Jason Atherton’s cocktail series, based round children’s books. The innovative chef has turned to classic stories for inspiration at The Blind Pig speakeasy, above Social Eating House: Pooh’s Honey Pot (£10.50) is spiked with honey brandy, while Paddington’s Lost and Found (£10.50) has a Ketel one oranje base and is topped with tiny marmalade sandwiches. The Best Bottle Butter Bitter (£12) combines Monkey Shoulder with beer, butterscotch and bitters – what’s more, it comes with a handful of butterscotch beans, introducing some real wizardry to cocktail hour.

The Ritz is hosting exclusive dinners with Champagne houses throughout 2018, and Friday 20 April marks its collaboration with Gosset – the oldest wine house in Champagne (1584). The evening starts with a black-tie Champagne reception at William Kent House, adjoined to The Ritz, before a four-course dinner and cuvée pairing next door in the Private Dining Room (£295 per person). 150 Piccadilly, St James’s, W1

theritzlondon.com

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Interview

SIBLING

re v e l r y First came the The Palomar, then The Barbary. Now Layo and Zoë Paskin, the brother and sister restaurateurs, have opened The Blue Posts – and it’s already the hottest booking in town Words RACHEL WALKER

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FOOD & DRINK

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here’s a momentary lull in the dinnertime babble as chef Luke Robinson flips out the tarte Tatin. It’s a highrisk dessert – particularly with 11 diners watching from across the kitchen counter – but it only adds to the theatrics here in the West End. Welcome to Evelyn’s Kitchen – brother and sister, Layo and Zoë Paskin’s latest launch. With packed reservations at their nearby restaurants The Palomar (2014) and The Barbary (2016), it’s little surprise that, since opening in late-February, Evelyn’s Kitchen has already become one of the hottest bookings in town. “I like small places,” smiles Layo when I meet both him and Zoë a week later. “Not pokey-small, but a feeling of intimacy can be magical.” There’s an unseasonal flurry of springtime snow outside the window of their top-floor office. Soho is unnervingly quiet, but there’s already a buzz downstairs. From street level, The Blue Posts looks every bit the lovingly restored Soho pub – all Georgian windows, hidden alcoves and beautiful wood panelling. Only those in the know will spot the discreet doorway leading downstairs to Evelyn’s Kitchen, or the original early 18th-century staircase which winds up to The Mulwray, the first-floor cocktail lounge, which has a mezcal-heavy menu and an exclusive, members’ club feel. When the pair took over the building, it was a dive: “We salvaged as much as we could,” says Zoë, conceding that the floorboards were all that was worth saving. They dug down in the beer cellar, and considered a basement kitchen. “Then we thought, ‘How many good

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staff are going to want to work underground sending up pub food?’” says Layo. “It’s not an attractive proposition.” Perversely, they overcame the problem by luring diners downstairs to the cellar as well. The pair worked round the hatch and ladder – where the beer kegs are still rolled in off the street – installing a compact kitchen and a countertop for diners to perch round, close enough to chit chat to the chefs as they churn out plate after tantalising plate. Layo and Zoë’s was an unusual path into restaurants. It all began with The End – the legendary nightclub which Layo co-founded in the mid1990s. When his career as a music producer and DJ took off, he recruited his younger sister to help manage the club. “Growing up together, you have similar tastes and sense of humour – there’s very strong trust if you get on with a sibling,” Layo says. “Sure, you can have a bad day together and get on each other’s nerves, but that bond is unbreakable.” The End closed its doors in 2009, but it wasn’t long until the siblings were working together again – this time on a collaboration with three Israeli chefs who ran a restaurant in Old Jerusalem, and were looking to launch in London. The pair found a site on the fringes of Chinatown, worked on the aesthetic, the feel, the culture and together they launched The Palomar. “It was nerve-wracking entering a partnership with people you don’t really know – basically an arranged marriage in business terms,” says Zoë. The gamble paid off. The Palomar was an instant hit. “The success took us by surprise,” says Layo, admitting that he was occasionally freaked out by the celebrities rocking-up on a nightly basis: “There were prime ministers and Hollywood A-listers with their bodyguards in the corner. It was a real who’s who.” With just 40 covers and 16 seats at the bar, it was impossible to be accommodating with numbers, but that didn’t stop the hustle. “If you ask for one more seat, we usually have to say ‘no’ – not

“The success took us by surprise. There were prime ministers and Hollywood A-listers”

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Layo. He agrees that it has changed beyond recognition but, unlike lots of Londoners, there’s no melancholy: “Negative change takes place when a charming area becomes not charming at all,” he says. “I don’t think it’s fair to say that of Soho.” Instead, Layo lists the members’ clubs on Dean Street as well as Brindisa (Spanish tapas) and Xu (cult-Taiwanese) which have moved to Rupert Street since The Palomar launched. “The great thing about the West End is that people go out here on Monday night, Tuesday night, Wednesday night,” he says. “If you’re good – and you have to be good – you’ll get discovered.” It’s a week of gloomy news in the hospitality industry, though. When we meet up, it’s recently been announced that restaurant insolvencies have gone up 20% on the past year – a meatball restaurant, modern Korean and Jamie Oliver outlet are among the local casualties. “There’s this odd perception that everyone in the restaurant industry is making loads of money, when anyone working in restaurants knows how hard it is to make any money – let alone loads of money,” Layo says. “Take tonight,” he continues, pointing to the snow-covered street below. “That weather will kill most restaurant trade,” he sighs, reminding me how empty restaurants still have to be fullystaffed with a fully-stocked

because we’re being awkward, but because there just isn’t one.” The buzz continued with their second restaurant, The Barbary, which serves North African plates from an open kitchen. Then came Jacob the Angel, an independent coffee house with freshly baked bagels and tahini-laced madeleines. It’s a long way from the London dining scene of their childhood. The pair chuckle as they remember pie and mash near their grandfather’s factory in Hoxton and the pepper steak at a long-closed restaurant in Swiss Cottage called The Cosmo. Still, Soho was their regular stomping ground. “From the age of 13 I’d be here buying music or visiting my friends who worked at Berwick Street Market,” says

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FOOD & DRINK

kitchen, even if there are no diners. “There are so many moments like that in a year which you can’t possibly predict – then Brexit comes, the pound drops, everything goes up in price, but the customer doesn’t want to pay any extra.” Layo predicts the emphasis shifting onto value for money, whether it’s a Michelin-starred meal or a hamburger. “You can go to a restaurant which is £150 per head and feel that you’ve had a great meal at a great price, or you could spend £20 and feel ripped-off,” he says. “Value is a very varied thing.” Surely there’s a temptation with an exclusive, 11-seater restaurant to hoik up prices – but the Paskins practice what they preach. Downstairs, the house white is a crisp Bulgarian wine from the Thracian Valley (£5.75) which was sought out for its value for money. Clever dishes – smoked eel, potato blini, beetroot (£9) – feel extravagant without being extortionate, and the kitchen set-up guarantees an intimate dinner, which is more than just a meal out. The Paskins’ skill is in judging the Soho mood and, once again, it’s paid off. There’s no doubt that life has been breathed back into the historic dive: there’s a buzz from the basement, a crowd at the bar, and a warm glow from the first floor cocktail lounge. I reluctantly pull the door behind

me and step back out into the spring snow. The streets might be barren, but the packed room I leave behind suggests that the Paskins are ready to tackle any storm that is to come. Evelyn’s Kitchen at The Blue Posts, 28 Rupert Street, Chinatown, W1 theblueposts.co.uk

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GLOSSARY FOR A NIGHTCAP ZP: We’re agreed on The Groucho for a nightcap. If I’m having a drink drink, then I’ll order a Twinkle (vodka, elderflower cordial, Perrier-Jouët NV Champagne, lemon twist), and Layo is fond of an Old Fashioned. 45 Dean St, Soho, W1; thegrouchoclub.com CLOTHES SHOPS LP: I like Trunk Clothiers Ltd on Chiltern Street – it’s quite eclectic with a classic aesthetic.” ZP: If I was buying myself a nice dress, then I’d go to A.P.C. on Lexington Street. 8 Chiltern St, Marylebone, W1; trunkclothiers.com 48 Lexington St, Soho, W1; apc.fr HIDDEN GEM LP: Waterlow Park, next to Highgate Cemetery which was bequeathed as a ‘garden for the gardenless’ – it’s a really lovely spot. Highgate Hill, Highgate, N6; waterlowpark.org.uk CAFES ZP: My favourite is Cafe Columbia, on Columbia Road – I love going down there on a Sunday for the flower market and then having a bagel and a mug of tea. LP: I get my bread from Pavilion Bakery, and I love Violet which is nearby and does really nice salted caramel muffins. 138 Columbia Rd, Bethnal Green, E2 18 Broadway Market, Hackney, E8, pavilionbakery.com 47 Wilton Way, Hackney, E8; violetcakes.com GALLERIES LP: I like the Friday Lates openings at The National Gallery and Tate Modern. I find it hard to find a connection with a piece of art if there are thousands of people round me – not in a selfish way, it’s just difficult to concentrate. The Lates are brilliant because there aren’t so many people about. The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, WC2; nationalgallery.org.uk Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1; tate.org.uk FOR A RUN ZP: I often run round Hampstead Heath. I start round the tennis courts, and then go up to the woods round the back of Kenwood House to the Vale of Health, which has a beautiful view. I always end up on Parliament Hill where I look out over the city. I nod to where my grandma used to live and blow her a kiss.

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

IN SEASON Restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong celebrates the joys of spring in the city

Rochelle Bar & Canteen at the Institute of Contemporary Arts

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stroll through a sun-dappled St James’s Park on a bright spring day will make wide-eyed outof-towners of us all. Who knew London could be this beautiful? And where better to toast this perennially satisfying observation than over an uplifting Black Velvet at the new Rochelle Bar & Canteen at the Institute of Contemporary Arts? It was suet pie season when Rochelle Canteen founder Margot Henderson (wife of St John’s Fergus) and Melanie Arnold opened this sequel to their 12-year-old Shoreditch original last year. As they enter their first spring season on The Mall, it’s joyous to witness the luscious braises and rib-sticking puddings make way for

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The Mall, St James’s, SW1 arnoldandhenderson.com the life-affirming bounty of the new season. Green means go as wild garlic, nettles, peas in their pods and the anxiously awaited St Enodoc asparagus arrive in short order. Wild garlic first, in the pungent butter concealed within retro chicken Kiev. (If anywhere can rehabilitate chicken Kiev, Rochelle Canteen can.) Peas in the pod are enjoyed just as they are or in one of Rochelle Canteen’s fetching salads with broad beans, fennel, lemon and tangy Berkswell cheese. ‘Keep it simple’ is the mantra, clearly expressed by young nettle risotto, the season’s first spears of asparagus anointed with butter and a grating of powerfully savoury bottarga, and by Henderson’s ‘desert island dish’ of lamb sweetbreads, morels and peas. This is fearless

cooking, ideal for the bibulous diner who will find happiness on the all-French list. Where Rochelle mark two lacks in outside space (the old schoolyard at the original is a favourite al fresco hang) it makes up for in location. The patrician setting contrasts winningly with the scuffed, studenty vibe of the bar, and seals its credentials with a cool, creative crowd blown in from the East. Long live the West End. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £70 SIGNATURE DISHES: Suet crust pie, roast Old Spot chop, quail escabeche. WHAT TO DRINK: The Margot Rita – mescal and fresh lime over ice.

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15/04/2018 12:32


FOOD & DRINK

SPRING Somerset House, Lancaster Place, WC2 springrestaurant.co.uk

LUCA St John Street, Clerkenwell, EC1 luca.restaurant

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esign aficionados will fall hard for Luca, the sophisticated Italian ‘sorella’ to Isaac McHale’s Michelinstarred Clove Club. The oak-lined bar is delightful – pop in for a freshly baked focaccia at breakfast time or crisp golden arancini at aperitivo hour. The glass-walled, light-filled rear dining room, its conservatory doors flung open onto a courtyard, is as close to idyllic as EC1 gets. Seasonal treats might include spaghetti quadrati with verdant pistachio pesto, saddle of baby lamb stuffed with morels, garlic and spinach, or Tamworth pork with spring greens and Italy’s prized red Tropea onions. Luca’s private dining rooms, the Pasta Room and the even lovelier Garden Room, are perfectly suited to intimate soirées.

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hat’s in a name? Autumn, winter, summer, spring... we’ve a year-round thing for Spring, Skye Gyngell’s lovely dining room at Somerset House (though a vernal visit does feel apposite). The crisp linens and lofty ceilings of this magnificently restored 19thcentury drawing room feel far removed from the mucky wellies and early starts of Fern Verrow, the 16-acre biodynamic farm that supplies it, but the bonds in the farm-to-fork relationship are strong. Gyngell, a former Vogue food editor, cooks ‘whatever feels right on the day’. She gets two drops a week from the Herefordshire farm, which right now might include dainty young carrots, shocking pink radishes, asparagus, salad leaves (no Spring menu would be complete without them) and even the arching boughs of cherry blossom that adorn the dining room. It’s all so very beautiful: even the simplest plate of, say, new season’s garlic with goats’ curd and bruschetta, is a still-life in miniature. Throughout the year, Spring’s menus look to warmer climes, Italy in particular. When there’s fresh filled pasta on, order it: the silky,

Elystan Street supple pasta is a gentle foil to the season’s keen flavours, be they wild garlic and nettle or sheeps’ milk ricotta, peas and pea shoots. The Spring way with luxurious ingredients – one we wholeheartedly endorse – is to serve them in abundance or not at all: Gyngell’s generous Dorset crab salad with white asparagus, agretti and pink radicchio is a case in point. To finish, one taste of the apricot tart with muscat and crème fraîche and you’re in the South of France. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £160 SIGNATURE DISHES: The £20 pre-theatre ‘Scratch’ menu of ‘waste’ ingredients WHAT TO DRINK: Fig Leaf Negroni with housemade fig leaf liqueur

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: Parmesan fries, tiramisu WHAT TO DRINK: The E. Pellicci cocktail, named after a Bethnal Green café

43 Elystan Street, Chelsea, SW3 elystanstreet.com

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oes the Michelin Guide give out its stars for mind-reading? That would certainly appear to be the case at chic Chelsea restaurant Elystan Street, where Phil Howard and co have an unerring knack for knowing what we want before we do. Of course we’re craving a light lunch of handmade strozzapreti with garlic leaf pesto, and of course we fancy splitting a leg of Pyrenean lamb for dinner – who wouldn’t? From the offer of a rhubarb and vanilla sour on arrival to the Brillat-Savarin cheesecake (an old favourite from the Square) at the end, it’s all on point. Menus roll with the seasons, incorporating good things from the earth as and when. The humble egg – the symbol of new life – gets a little extra attention in the spring, coddled in a dressing with steamed hispi cabbage hearts and Parmesan or, in the case of pheasant’s eggs, boiled atop crisp asparagus spears and plump morels. Classic wines by the half carafe – including sought after aged Pouilly Fumé – enhance the experience. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: The Sunday roast, cheesecake, lemon tart WHAT TO DRINK: Italian and Burgundian wines

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

Chiltern Firehouse 1 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1 chilternfirehouse.com

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ortuguese perfectionist Leandro Carreira has spent the ‘gap year’ between his Climpson’s Arch residency and the launch of his debut restaurant Londrino (meaning ‘Londoner’) in London Bridge assiduously building a library of indigenous Portuguese seeds. The former Viajante head chef’s horticultural ambitions are now, quite literally, bearing fruit on a farm in Epping where the best of the new season’s produce – from punchy brassicas to gorgeous violet-hued peas – is harvested daily for Londrino’s menu. The lengthy daily à la carte – a list of superior snacks is also available at the adjacent wine bar – bristles with seasonal promise and modern Portuguese touches. Clams ‘bulhão pato’ demonstrates a rare traditionalist streak, the pristine molluscs simply steamed with coriander and garlic; while the natural sweetness of Mylor prawns is accentuated by a judicious dash

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of preserved lemon oil. Shellfish, any shellfish, is a must-try, all the more so in springtime as lobster, razor clams, spider crab and periwinkles come in. At which point, a bottle of spritzy vinho branco from the wine list (predominantly but not exclusively Portuguese) becomes impossible to resist. Carreira’s modernist style can be polarising. One minute he’s doing difficult-to-love ‘al dente’ fermented potatoes and curious salty ice creams, the next he’s going all-out delicious with crispy crackling pigs’ tails and delectable grilled brioche with sour caramel. He’s a fascinating cook and his first solo restaurant (warm and welcoming in spite of the cool, post-industrial design scheme) is already a cherished neighbourhood spot. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £125 SIGNATURE DISH: Octopus with red pepper miso WHAT TO DRINK: White port and tonic

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e arrive at Chiltern Firehouse with a spring in our step. It’s not only the promise of crab doughnuts – Nuno Mendes will go down in culinary history for them – and a note-perfect Negroni that lifts our spirits, it’s the anticipation of joining the ongoing party at superhotelier André Balazs’ near-legendary London venue. We eschew the foliagebedecked restaurant itself, as fetching as is, in favour of the private cobbled courtyard; in either setting, Mendes’ Americaninflected modern classics shine bright. He knows how we like to eat: lightly at first (fruits de mer, crudos, ceviches and so on) before we surrender to the inevitable (Hereford steak, french fries and the addictive mac and cheese). Sunday brunch is a blast.

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £160 SIGNATURE DISHES: Crab doughnuts, Firehouse Caesar salad, buttermilk pancakes WHAT TO DRINK: Cocktails in celebrity hideaway, the Ladder Shed

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BOCCA DI LUPO 12 Archer Street, Soho, W1 boccadilupo.com

C THE SHED 122 Palace Gardens Terrace, Notting Hill, W8 theshed-restaurant.com

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he rosy-cheeked Gladwin brothers have brought a breath of fresh country air to Notting Hill with their rustic hideaway The Shed. Launched in 2012, it’s the first of their farm-to-table restaurants (followed since by Rabbit in Chelsea and Nutbourne in Battersea) that draws on their upbringing on the family farm and vineyard in Sussex. The Shed is every city dweller’s bucolic fantasy come to life: barrel tables, raw brick, bright colours and checked shirt wearing waiting staff with smiles to spare. The cooking is more polished than one might imagine, however, with layer upon layer of flavour in even the simplest sounding dish. Sharing’s the way to go, beginning with Nutbourne ‘cures’, such as chorizo and labneh with kale and flatbread or malt-braised pork cheeks with elderflower, nutmeg and pork crackling. Produce comes in daily from the farm and menus change accordingly. Look out for plant-based small plates of carrot hummus with caraway crisps or purple sprouting broccoli with ricotta, chilli and sumac. Alternatively, from the Gladwins’ seafood suppliers, try cod with dulse butter and lemon potato vinaigrette or Lulworth scallops, pickled cucumber, dill and sumac puffs. To drink anything other than Nutbourne wine would seem like a missed opportunity (from £32.50).

an it really be ten years since chef Jacob Kenedy opened Bocca di Lupo, his trattoria on Archer Street? Now something of a Soho institution, it has stayed in the critics’ good books all these years for doing what it set out to do – namely, serving food from all 20 of Italy’s diverse regions – and getting better at it all the time. Kenedy cooks absolutely to the calendar, changing menus twice daily and incorporating regional curiosities to suit the season. His Easter menu (running throughout April) travels the length and breadth of 'Lo Stivale' for torta pasqualina, a chard, spinach, artichoke and egg pie from Genoa, nettle pappardelle with kid goat ragu from Tuscany, braised lamb in wine, egg yolk, lemon and Pecorino from Abruzzo, and sweet ricotta and candied orange tart from Naples. I hear it is possible to go to Bocca di Lupo and not overdo it but that’s a feat I’ve yet to achieve: there’s simply nothing on the menu I don’t want from light fresh seafood crudi, to homemade pasta, soothing risotti, various fried

goodies (artichokes, sage leaves etc) and homemade sausages. I could probably live well on side orders alone: Pugliese chickpeas, buttery lemony agretti from Veneto, Sicilian merinda tomatoes (to name but a few). The bar’s a popular spot, but my preference is for the dining room at the back, if only for the opportunity to covet the paintings on the wall (by Kenedy’s mother, artist Haidee Becker). MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Radish, celeriac, pomegranate and Pecorino salad; pork and foie gras sausage; sanguinaccio (blood, chocolate and pistachio salame) WHAT TO DRINK: Rarities from the exhaustive Italian wine list.

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £90 SIGNATURE DISHES: Mushroom Marmite eclairs with confit egg yolk, venison cigars, pan-fried goats’ cheese with almonds, honey and thyme, The Shed Vienetta parfait. WHAT TO DRINK: Nutbourne sparkling wine, Sussex Reserve white wine, salted caramel espresso Martini.

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TRAVEL

The White Isle Hugging the edge of a pine forest and with sprawling views of the sea (perfect for sunset gazing), Seven Pines Resort Ibiza – an all-suite clifftop hotel – will offer tailor-made luxury when it opens in May. Book ahead for access to the mirrorlike private pools and use of the hotel’s Pershing yacht for exploring hidden coves and secluded beaches. 7pines.com

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Travel Notes Rebalance on South African safari, stay lagoonside in Iceland and raise your surf game in Bali Compiled by LIZZIE POOK

INTO THE BLUE Indulge your desire for adventureluxe at COMO’s newest opening on Bali’s picturesque south coast. Surrounded by emerald green rice paddies and stretched across a staggeringly beautiful six-mile beach, lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, COMO Uma Canggu provides the ultimate escape. The resort’s main offering comes in the shape of its luxury surfing concept, in partnership with Tropicsurf. Challenging breaks will keep veteran surfers happy, while novices can also learn the ropes on calmer waves nearby. comohotels.com/umacanggu

On safari

WILD WELLNESS Sharpen your mind, body and safari skills at Makanyi Lodge’s new wellness retreats. Located in the southern sector of the Timbavati – one of the most exclusive game viewing areas in South Africa – it’s home to the ‘big five’ as well as the elusive, ethereal, white lions. With yoga, meditation and nutritional consultations, rebalance your body and mind as you immerse yourself in the bush and the spectacular creatures that roam freely around it. makanyilodge.com

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Gone fishing

Set for an extensive £4 million refurbishment, award-winning Cotswolds hideout The Fish will soon cement itself as the base from which to romp around the Cotswolds’ countryside. As well as the newly re-invigorated six-bedroom farmhouse and a seafood-inspired restaurant (serving up Porthilly rock oysters, poached blue chip salmon and lobster thermidor), its luxury treehouses and eclectic hideaway huts will gradually launch over the summer, injecting a sense of quirky adventure into the quiet, quaint surrounds.

thefishhotel.co.uk

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T R AV E L

Lagoon life Hole up next to one of Iceland’s most popular attractions, as luxury design hotel The Retreat opens its doors next to the Blue Lagoon this April. Built into an 800-year-old lava flow, the hotel will comprise a sultry subterranean spa, experimental Icelandic restaurant and 62 elegant suites encircled by the lagoon’s steamy, mineral-rich waters.

retreat.bluelagoon.com

UNDERWATER LOVE The opulent Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi will offer 120 luxurious over-water villas when it opens in April. Peppered across a stretch of pristine, white-sand beach, the lagoon-based resort will also feature the Maldives’ first underwater sculpture museum, created by British artist and ‘underwater naturalist’ Jason deCaires Taylor.

sirrufenfushi.com

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Wanderlust

A Grand

AFFAIR

Thanks to a $32 million makeover and pioneering interior scheme by Kelly Hoppen, the LUX* Grand Gaube is setting a new standard for Mauritius’ destination resort scene Words CHRIS ALLSOP

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T R AV E L

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idday in Mauritius, and I’ve left my hat in the room. But Mario, my twinkly, middle-aged naturalist guide, is apparently too rapt with the LUX* Grand Gaube resort’s new landscaping to feel the 30°C heat. We stop for a singular, life-giving pause in the shade of a newly planted palm. In my peripheral vision, I can make out both the resort ice-cream stand and the gin and tonic bar. Mario points out the industrious nests of the village weaver bird, like rattan Thai kick balls speared on the tips of the fronds. “And that,” he says, pointing at a delicate brown dove waddling into shady grasses, “is the laziest nest builder. Three twigs is all it needs.” He throws up his hands (I feel an instant kinship with the bird), but Mario, a longtime employee of the resort and evidently a man who likes things done well, is revelling in the no-expense-spared, top-totoe renovation of this honeymoon paradise that he calls ‘work’. And it’s easy to see why, especially with LUX* commissioning design guru Kelly Hoppen to mastermind the six-month $32-million resort ‘reimagining’ – a switch from thatched tropical cliché to modern, sophisticated informality, with enough white for an Apple megastore. Warm on-shore breezes ruffle the interior palms and ferns set amid the wicker peacock chairs of the central Palm Court restaurant and bar, with glittering columns adding dazzle to Hoppen’s calm neutral greys, taupe and silver pallet. Mauritian architect Jean-Francois Adam brought in more light and a sense of space by adding glass and raising ceilings on the structure, which dates to 1989. “For me, when you go to a hotel, you want to feel amazing, you want to feel fantastic, you want the experience to be amazing,” Hoppen says about her work on the hotel. “Grand Gaube is about barefoot luxury – everything is about leaving a city and being in this total paradise.” Arriving in my room, it’s a retro-chic, beach house breeze. The bold navy-blue lines on the walls transport the eye to the

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spacious balcony and the Instagrammable vista beyond that encompasses shivering palms, a crescent beach (one of two), glittering bay, and, on the horizon, the poetically named Flat Island. Beachy shutters are balanced by modern light fixtures, and the bathroom has some serious acreage of gorgeous geometric tiling. Silver and faux-ivory taps – quite literally – add polish alongside other decorative touches such as woven African baskets, wicker table and reclaimed Victorian bathtubs. Those looking for something extra special should book in to the romantic junior suites with outdoor bathtubs for two on the balconies, or claim your own peninsula with the LUX* Villa, which offers a private swimming pool and 24-hour butler service. Refreshed by my bathroom’s rain shower and a swift visit to the stretch Mini Cooper ice-cream stand for a perfect hazelnut scoop (the icy goodness is made on site with Italian cream), I’m soon on a standup paddleboard gliding out of the powderblue shallows. The sun soaks into my shoulders and a shoal of tiny fish skitter across the bay’s translucent surface. From the water you can really appreciate the sweep of the formerly tiki-tastic resort, positioned on the sunny north-east tip of the island, with the rugged hinterland rising behind. But it’s artist Camille Walala’s joyful, geometric mural that really catches the eye. The main beach’s new signature backdrop, it’s vivid beam of colour – like the fluorescent fish zipping beneath my board – underscoring the renovation’s airy, modern sensibility. While the main beach is only noisy when there’s a DJ (the families,

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honeymooners and other guests all seem to co-exist harmoniously within the resort’s spacious grounds), there is a smaller, even quieter beach – with adjacent pool area – just for adults. Here you’ll also find, beneath the auspices of an immense banyan tree, a lunchtime burger shack, permanently parked van serving cocktails and milkshakes, and in the tree’s ample arms a Disney-like treehouse with a Magic Kingdom’s worth of local rum to sample. Silver-tongued Vishnu weaves a tale of island booze history as you stare agog at the 88 rum bottles lined up for tasting; in the end he mixes me a simple caipirinha to beat the heat, with molasses for an ohso-smooth depth. The resort has seven bars (Beach Rouge, positioned on the sand and doused in red light, becomes my digestif haunt) and six restaurants, but my stomach was rumbling loudest for INTI – the island’s first Argentinian-Peruvian restaurant. A pisco sour aperitif at INTI’s Pisco Bar, followed

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by starters of sharp tuna ceviche and a main of ruby-centred Wagyu tenderloin with moreish dips. Tick, tick, tick. INTI also offers an enticing taco menu with fresh seafood options like tuna, yuzu and green chili, or, for the more adventurous gastronome, milk-fed veal sweetbreads with teriyaki sauce as a main. But I think it’ll probably be Bodrum Blue that will linger longest in the memory, the resort’s preppy Turkish cuisine rotunda perched on a tiny peninsula. Mint, yoghurt and beetroot mezze paired with 300-degree views of the shimmering turquoise-hued seas? Why, certainly. Or maybe Bodrum Blue will stay with me most because of a scent memory: this was the first restaurant where, upon entry, I was facespritzed with rose water. Another, less surprising jasmine-scented face-spritzing occurs as I visit the LUX* ME Spa. During my too short stay, I fit in a couple of hour-long relaxing massages to keep the muscles loose for the marathon stints on the beachfront loungers. But the menu offers rich pickings for the more dedicated spa fly with Carita Haute Beauté anti-ageing, Ayurveda, and Chinese healing treatments (think cupping therapy and moxibustion), a daily programme of yoga and tai chi in its inner courtyard garden, and meditation expert Kamran Bedi of the Mind Body Method on hand to help you re-balance as required. If you’re feeling very energetic, you can rent a mountain bike and explore the neighbouring fishing village and wild beaches concealed through groves of filao pines, initiative that easily earns you another ice cream (pistachio). But what I particularly enjoy about LUX* is its whimsical resort ephemera.


T R AV E L ISLAND LIFE

The

Holiday Edit

Ticklish paintbrushes hang here and there for dusting off your sandy toes, there’s a ‘Tree of Wishes’ with visual guide on how to fold your written wish into an origami whale, and red telephone booth from which you can make free calls home. And don’t forget the daily nature walk with Mario. He used to be the resort’s head gardener but who you will now find manning the resort’s Junk Art Gallery – a quirky shop and activity centre – near the tennis courts. The landscaping is the work of Chelsea Flower Show double gold medallist, Stephen Woodhams, who stuffed the grounds with bright bougainvillea, bulging bottle palms and essentially a botanical garden’s worth of tree species.

Despite their pristine presentation, the gardens have an eye to inviting in the wild. The downy Pennisetum grasses (see, Mario, I was listening) bob with pairs of feeding Mauritian cardinal, the distinctive songbird’s vermilion plumage dipped in the evening’s incandescent sunset. It’s humid and watching these tropical robins is making me peckish. Fortunately, the ice-cream stand (coconut) is never far away… Prices: Rooms start from €370 (approx £320) per night for a couple in a double Deluxe room on a half-board basis. luxresorts.com/en/hotel-mauritius/ luxgrandgaube

ALBUS LUMEN Puglia straw hat £315; net-a-porter.com GLOBE-TROTTER Centenary trolley case, £1,200; globetrotter.com JOHANNA ORTIZ Crepe De Chine kimono, £1,380; modaoperandi.com CAROLINA K Liset bikini set, £198; modaoperandi.com KAYU Lolita woven bucket bag, £118; mytheresa.com MICHAEL KORS Fagan leather sandals, £360; michaelkors.com CHLOÉ Carlina sunglasses, £267; matchesfashion.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

New Bloom

Photography: Mishael Phillip

Copenhagen and Malmรถ-based studio Wang & Sรถderstrรถm practice at the interstice of art and design. Most recently, the duo turned their talents to 3D printing, teaming up with Unique Board on Excavation, a limited-edition trio of marvellously mottled vases. wangsoderstrom.com

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Design Notes Smashable sinks and new Nordics are top of our spring wishlist Compiled by JESSICA KLINGELFUSS

WONDER WALLS

From bohemian bungalows to maximalist mansions, Interiors Now! is an indispensable compendium celebrating the magic of contemporary interior design across the globe. Take a whistlestop tour through Miami, Avignon, and more in this carefully curated survey of the finest spaces. £15, published by Taschen. taschen.com

MARBLE MARVEL

Basins don’t come more monolithic – or more daring – than Italian sculptor Paolo Ulian’s freestanding ‘Introverso’ design for Antonio Lupi. Chiselled from a single block of white Carrara marble, the basin comprises a stack of slats (with a discreet hourglass profile revealed only from the side) that can be left intact or smashed away with a hammer to create a new silhouette. antoniolupi.it

Book now

GET CRAFTY London Craft Week returns to the capital for its fourth festival from 9-13 May. This year, over 200 established and emerging makers, designers, brands and galleries – covering all creative disciplines – will host curated workshops, talks and events at multiple venues all over town. Celebrated artists and designers include Tom Dixon and Carl Hansen (above), as well as exciting emerging talents like Phoebe Cummings.

londoncraftweek.com

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BLOOMING LOVELY Bring some florals into your home – and not just in a vase. Now in its 28th year, Glasgow textiles firm Timorous Beasties takes inspiration from the natural world, and its riotously colourful Bloomsbury Garden Antique (£300 per roll) wallpaper is just like bringing the outside in. timorousbeasties.com


HOME & INTERIORS

New launch

Northern Light Nordic in spirit, international in style – freshly launched Norwegian lifestyle brand Northern is putting a fresh spin on understated luxury. Its debut furniture and accessories collection comprises pieces from 16 designers spanning seven different countries. Designs include Rudi Wulff ’s sleek storage units and café tables that recall the heady elegance of Parisian restaurants. Nordic design just got even cooler.

Photography: Chris Tonnesen

northern.no

CURIOSITY CABINET

HOUSE OF HACKNEY Pineapple bookends, £175.00

SLOWDOWN STUDIO Mooney throw, £220.00

SAN MIGUEL RECYCLED GLASS Origami vase, £75.00

Liberty’s Interiors Emporium is serving up a smorgasbord of modern home design, including hand-thrown ceramics and unique artworks. Make yourself at home with Fornasetti, Studio Emma, and Slowdown Studi – just some of the names complementing the British stalwart’s in-house design team. libertylondon.com

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LA SOUFFLERIE Tête drinking glass, £30.00

LAURA BIRD Flower Girl plate, £85.00

HOUSE OF HACKNEY Pineapple bookends, £175.00

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r e u T Interview

COLOURS How noughties Shoreditch nightlife shaped the kaleidoscopic world of designer Bethan Laura Wood Words BETHAN RYDER

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lways the most riotously colourful character in a room, Bethan Laura Wood’s personal style is as captivating and inventive as her work – flowing patterned robes and kimonos, exploding headscarves, clunky bangles, pink-dotty cheeks, pastel blue hair and electric-blue geisha lips. Like a tribal goddess of pattern, these elaborate costumes are the performative, ever-evolving extension of her experimental and multidisciplinary approach to design. “I have a very layered Russian-doll look that I’ve been interested in for a long time,” she says, “but it does morph and change depending on other influences.” Past Mexican jaunts (and Frida Kahlo in particular) have provided rich sartorial inspiration and a recent spell in Japan (she also loves Yayoi Kusama) saw the Hackneybased designer discovering incredible kimonos, but it’s not all about exotic faraway lands. Wood’s roving magpie eye is as likely to stumble across items that inspire in local car boot sales, flea markets or London’s Spitalfields as much as vintage stores abroad. This response to her immediate environment and everyday objects as the foundation for her practice – often produced as limited-edition furniture and lighting – is something that originated while she was studying an MA in Product Design at the Royal College of Art. Her tutors there were Dutch designer Jürgen Bey and London-based Italian-born designer Martino Gamper, with whom she remains friends. “I had been fixated on going to the RCA for quite a long time,” says Wood, who completed an Art Foundation at Kingston before going on to study 3D Design at the University of Brighton. “I knew the RCA would be life changing. It’s quite a stressful environment though because it challenges you to define what is it is you want to bring to the table.” What Wood brought to the table first was a new surface language, which adapted traditional marquetry techniques to celebrate modern laminates as though they were rare

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Toothpaste bag for Valextra

wood veneers. The tops of her debut Moon Rock series of tables were like a punk-pop version of fossilised rock or precious stones. These, along with her mesmerising Totem lighting collection, which was created in conjunction with artisan Pietro Viero and layers laboratory-style volumes of mouthblown Pyrex glass, caught the eye of influential Milan gallerist Nina Yashar. So just over a year after graduating, Wood was exhibiting her work at Yashar’s prestigious Nilufar gallery alongside her former tutor Gamper. Since then her ascent has been swift and steady, with a Design Museum residency and her prodigious creative potential recognised in 2016 when she was awarded the prestigious Swarovski Best Emerging Design Talent medal at the London Design Festival. For Wood there was never any doubt a creative path beckoned, or that her outré personal style would be an inextricable part of the whole. “My mum said that my sister Sophie and I always enjoyed

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making things, but I had to do it – it was a compulsion,” she recalls. “Initially I wanted to be an artist, but probably just because it’s the most commonly understand creative role when you’re young. As I grew up, I enjoyed the idea of making objects that interacted, that had a connection between practicality and fantasy.” One such example being the hair slides she fashioned for herself aged 13. “I made them from Kirby grips with pencil sharpeners stuck to them. The homemade hair clips made me quite popular at school,” she recounts, adding that growing up in the Midlands wasn’t easy. “I never felt there was a group for me. I was even outcast from the cool outcast group,” she says. She’s found her gang now, though. London was the answer, somewhere she had her sights set on from the 1990s. Arriving in 2007 she initially fell in with a crowd of film and television students and started assisting a costumier friend. Her first foray into design was self-adornment, as much

a product of circumstance as a definitive career move. “I did jewellery ranges and a teacup which I could produce from the kitchen of my shared house. There was also a great dress-up and nightlife scene going on and I could wear those pieces out.” It’s a familiar narrative – the future stylists, photographers, fashionistas, designers, artists and musicians – heading for the Big Smoke to unleash their creativity and craft their identity after dark in clubland. Wood found her tribe at BoomBox in Hoxton Square, frequented by Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, Hedi Slimane, Princess Julia and Kim Jones among others. “I worked at Bar Music Hall and from Thursday night to Sunday there was lots going on. It was a really interesting mix of dancing and nightlife, inspiring all these creative facets. Making jewellery was right at that time.” Today Wood’s gang is less about dancefloor expression and more about design studio productivity. Based in Hackney, she is close

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HOME & INTERIORS

Trellis Wheel

Trellis Wheel

to the studios of Gamper and his artist wife Frances Upritchard and contemporaries like Max Lamb. “This part of east London has a very strong scene of creative people. We try to support each other and go to each other’s shows. I’d find it difficult to contemplate leaving.” When she showcased a series of blown-glass lighting pieces during the 2017 London Design Festival it was as part of a collective enterprise spearheaded by her friends, fashion designer Peter Pilotto and his partner Christopher De Vos. The four-floor Townhouse Takeover pop-up atelier in South Kensington was

This spring, Wood is as prolific as ever. About to hit Valextra stores is Toothpaste, her collection of seven squiggly leather handles, four clasps and three pocket accessories that offset the architectural lines and open up the possibilities of the brand’s SS18 handbag collection. For Salone there are new designs for directional Italian-based rug company CC Tapis and pieces for Nilufar gallery and you can bet they’ll be as colourful, experimental and exuberant as Wood herself. bethanlaurawood.com

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GLOSSARY FAVOURITE FASHION DESIGNERS Duro Olowu is incredible – he has such great eye for colour and vivid pattern. I’m a big fan of his kimonos. I work with the Peter Pilotto duo – Peter and Christopher de Vos are print masters – their new collection is incredible. Duro Olowu, 14 Masons Yard, St James’s, SW1; duroolowu.com Peter Pilotto available at Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, Marylebone, W1 peterpilotto.com

GO-TO GALLERIES I go to the Tate a lot and I’m really looking forward to the Frida Kahlo exhibition at the V&A. I also frequent lots of small, independent spaces too, like the Kate MacGarry gallery near Redchurch Street. 27 Old Nichol Street, Shoreditch, E2; katemacgarry.com DESIGN STORES Momo who owns Momosan is very delicate and gentle about the objects she puts together. Her selection is very beautiful. You can find anything from a carved wooden teaspoon to a Japanese tea set to stuff from Max Lamb or Jochen Holz. I also love Schmid McDonagh owned by Andreas Schmid and Andrew McDonagh. They have some beautiful things. Momosan, 79a Wilton Way, Hackney, E8; momosanshop.com Schmid McDonagh, 18 Church Street, Marylebone, NW8; schmidmcdonagh.com

Temple-Oil Lamp

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CULTURAL PITSTOP I love the brutalist 1960s aesthetic of the Barbican and there have been some great shows there. It’s always a real treat to go. Silk Street, Barbican, EC2; barbican.org.uk

“As I grew up, I enjoyed making objects that had a connection between practicality and fantasy”

billed as an immersive “otherworldly gesamtkunstwerk”. Alongside Pilotto’s kaleidoscopic clothing and Wood’s characteristically colourful, modular totemic pieces was seating by Gamper, ceramics by Upritchard, blankets by Lamb, glass vessels by Jochen Holz, china from 1882 Ltd, vintage finds from Schmid McDonagh (antiques dealer in St John’s Wood) and illustrations by Peter McDonald. It was a collective tour de force and by far the best installation at LDF.

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Bethan's

BEAUTY SPOT Screenface London, which used to be in Covent Garden and is now in Shoreditch, does some of the best lip colours and eye pencils. It’s where make-up artists go and it sells amazing products you can’t find anywhere else. 47 Charlotte Road, Shoreditch, EC2; screenface.co.uk

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New trends

DESIGN

HEROES The colours, materials and style influences to update your home Words AMY BRADFORD

BURNISHED BRASS

Few metals bring quite such warmth to your home as brass, which is being used in ever more innovative ways. It was once reserved for accessories, but now you’ll see it crafted into gleaming furniture, too – just one piece will add drama to a simple room. In terms of finishes, expect to see hammered, oxidised and matt surfaces, as well as polished metal. Italian brand Alessi has been making brass homewares since the 1930s; its new Extra Ordinary Metal collection is a modern twist on an ancient goldsmith’s technique known as Etruscan granulation, which involves welding tiny spheres onto metal foil for a textured effect. Just add brass lighting for a megawatt glow. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SOHO HOME Halsted banker’s floor lamp, £195; sohohome.com AYTM Angui brass and velvet bench, £666; madeindesign.co.uk ALESSI Port basket, £115, from the Extra Ordinary Metal collection; alessi.com TOM DIXON Form tea set, from £55 for a milk jug; tomdixon.net JONATHAN ADLER Puzzle table lamp, £1,250; uk.jonathanadler.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

KINTSUGI Japanese style is normally loved for its simplicity, but the country has more to offer than Zen minimalism. The latest trend to look out for is design inspired by kintsugi, a centuries-old technique for repairing broken ceramics with gold lacquer. This is rooted in the philosophy known as wabi sabi, which frowns upon waste (it’s the oriental version of “make do and mend”). Kintsugi is reborn in London studio Yenchen & Yawen’s Jesmonite accessories with gold and silver details, and Dutch brand Humade’s DIY kit that will repair all kinds of objects. HUMADE Vessels restored with New Kintsugi Repair Kit, £24; humade.nl

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NEW NEUTRALS Last year’s millennial pink trend has moved up a gear, with lilac, lavender and peach added into the mix to form this season’s prettiest look. These shades are taking the place of neutrals like beige and cream – in other words, they’re no longer just accent colours, but the basic building blocks of a modern home. Farrow & Ball’s Peignoir paint is the perfect backdrop for walls – it changes subtly with the light from mauve to pink to taupe. Similarly, a sofa in barely-there pink feels just as timeless as grey. Layer tonal hues throughout your space and add pale wood for a multi-dimensional look. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: TAMAR MOGENDORFF Velvet shell pillow in Smoke Lavender, $160; tamarmogendorff.com MUUTO Oslo sofa in Lilac, £3,095; Five pouf, from £869; Around coffee table, from £295; Varjo rug, from £519; all nunido.co.uk MUUTO Elevated vase, £89; nunido.co.uk FERM LIVING Unfold room divider, £1,099; monologuelondon.com BUNGALOW Ceramic bowls, from £16 each; libertylondon.com OYUNA Aya cashmere throw, £949; oyuna.com FARROW & BALL Peignoir matt emulsion, £45 per 2.5 litres matt emulsion; farrow-ball.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

PATTERNED AND COLOURED MARBLE The new way to do marble? Forget plain white and grey; unusual coloured stones, often arranged in complex patterns, are the way forward. Salvatori’s huge dining table in blood-red Rouge du Roi marble is the ultimate style statement. Designers are also exploring semi-precious stones, such as pink onyx, that feel dramatic and luxurious. The pattern of the moment is LA interior designer Kelly Wearstler’s Liaison collection of wall and floor tiles for Ann Sacks, which combines green, gold, black and white marbles in geometric shapes. SALVATORI Love Me, Love Me Not dining table by Michael Anastassiades, £40,000; salvatori.it ANN SACKS Liaison wall and floor tiles by Kelly Wearstler, £894 per sq m; westonebathrooms.com

Jesmonite

Until recently, Jesmonite – a composite made of plaster, cement and resin, first created in 1984 – was just a functional material used in the craft and building industries. Light, durable, water-based and therefore eco-friendly, the material was big news at last year’s London Design Festival and now designers have started to exploit its decorative potential. Russell Pinch’s Nim table moulds Jesmonite into a stone-like finish with subtle graduations of colour, but it can also be colourful and strongly textured: look out for multi-coloured surfaces inspired by Italian terrazzo floors and 3D relief patterns. The appeal of Jesmonite lies in its versatility: it can be carved, cast, dyed, and combined with other materials to create a wide range of looks.

PINCH Nim coffee table by Russell Pinch; £7,750; pinchdesign.com OLIVIA ASPINALL Limited-edition vessels by Olivia Aspinall and Ornamental Grace, £POA; olivia-aspinall.com

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RAFFIA AND WICKER One of the strongest design statements you can make right now is to embrace humble, hand-crafted materials. Baskets made from raffia and straw are as key for homes as they are for your wardrobe; canework furniture is also on trend, whether with a vintage feel or in simple, modern shapes. Look for interesting patterns in the weave, and anything that feels rustic or organic to give natural texture to your interior. Add a contemporary twist with brightly coloured raffia textiles. FAMEED KHALIQUE Geometric raffia cushion, £510; fameedkhalique.com. ANTHROPOLOGIE Kinsella rattan bed, £1,800; anthropologie.com

1970ss STYLE

The 1970s were the decade of louche, laid-back glamour. Now they’re making a welcome return in the form of oversized prints, curvy shapes and a retro palette of mustard, rust and chocolate shades. For authentic Seventies style, look no further than Pierre Paulin’s Bonnie lounge chairs and sofas, created in 1975 and newly reissued by Ligne Roset in a deep maroon colourway. With textiles, the bolder the pattern, the bigger the stage it deserves – think rugs, curtains and wallpaper. Low-level seating also strikes the right vintage note, so add a pouf or two to your lounge and relax… CC-TAPIS Rotazioni rug by Patricia Urquiola, £7,252; cc-tapis.com SEBASTIAN HERKNER FOR CLASSICON Bell coffee table, £2,246; aram.co.uk PIERRE PAULIN Pumpkin armchairs, from £1,541 / footstool, £873; ligne-roset.com

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1 5 0 Y E A R S I N T H E M A K I NG

ow complete

APARTMENTS FROM £810,000* READY TO MOVE IN TODAY. *Price correct at time of going to press.

VIS IT O U R NE W S H OW APART ME NTS +44 (0)20 7205 2380 | gasholderslondon.co.uk Gasholders, 1 Lewis Cubitt Square, London N1C 4BY Photography by Tina Hillier, January 2018

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Unlocking

your

HOMES

Potential

From invite-only talks to intimate networking events, members of luxury homestay service onefinestay enjoy more than just financial rewards. The Glossary reveals how renting out your home could gain you access to some of the most exclusive events in the city

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O

ne of life’s great pleasures is checking into a beautiful hotel, kicking off your shoes and sinking into a luxurious bed. But what if you could stay at a rental home that had the same high standards and thoughtful touches as a boutique hotel, coupled with the charm and comfort of a real home? That’s the premise of onefinestay, launched in 2009 in London by Greg Marsh, Demetrios Zoppos, Tim Davey and Evan Frank, and now with a 10,000-strong portfolio of curated homes, villas and apartments in countries all over the world. Its homes are high calibre, from a townhouse in Chelsea and an apartment in Rome, to a poolside mansion in The Hamptons or a beach house in Antigua. These are properties where you can expect fine art on the walls, an infinity pool or a private gym. And while you holiday in someone else’s home, you could be renting out yours, too. Prospective homestay owners complete a two-minute survey and if your property meets the company’s exacting standards, the team take care of everything else. Before guests arrive, a dedicated team visits each home to clean, pack away

valuables and, if needed, fit tamper-proof seals on wardrobes and drawers, allowing you to store possessions discreetly away from guests. The team also brings in 200-thread count bed linen, plus plush towels and boutique toiletries to stock the bathrooms. Once guests check out, the team returns to clean the property and check everything is just as you left it. Homestay guests are looked after by a manager, who meets guests, introduces them to your home, runs through the

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PROMOTION

“While you take a holiday in

house rules (the lead guest must be 25 years old or older) and is then on-call 24 hours a day throughout their stay. They’ll even arrange airport transfers, grocery shopping and childcare. Guests are supplied with an iPhone with a concierge on-call, free data, unlimited local calls and several useful apps to help them make the most of their stay. Like we said – they take care of everything. The current roster of London properties stretches across the capital, from smart family homes in Belgravia to edgy loft conversions in Shoreditch, and onefinestay is looking to expand its curated portfolio of homes throughout central London. The financial rewards of renting out your home through onefinestay can be impressive – especially if your property would otherwise be unused – and you are in complete control of the availability, allowing you to rent out your home only when it suits you. However, the incentives extend far beyond monetary reward. Homestay owners are part of a coveted club, which allows members discounts on

someone else’s home, you could be renting out yours, too”

other properties and gives them access to exclusive members-only events. These events are designed to bring together its interesting and diverse client base for an informal networking

and socialising opportunity. Recent events include a talk at the South Kensington Club with the mavens from Farrow & Ball, VIP passes to designjunction, and tickets to some of London Craft Week’s most prestigious events, including a behind the scenes look into Christian Louboutin at its flagship store. In November, onefinestay members were invited to a breakfast and private view of the National

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Portrait Gallery’s major international exhibition Cézanne Portraits. Nicholas, who has rented his home through onefinestay since 2015, is a regular at member events. “It’s like being part of an exclusive club with some great social and networking events, as well as valuable help and advice on presenting and maintaining your home,” he says. “I love my home but I don’t need to be here all the time as my work allows me to travel frequently for periods of time, so onefinestay is ideal for me.” And along with the flexible rental terms and complete management service, Nicholas has discovered another positive: “I often find it in better condition when I return than when I left!”

THE DETAILS:

If you have a beautiful home you’d like to share in London or one of onefinestay’s other 100+ destinations, contact Victoria and the team to find out what joining onefinestay could mean for you. victoria.bevan@onefinestay.com; 020 3763 3804; onefinestay.com

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L A S T WO R D

MY GLOSSARY LORRAINE PASCALE

Chef, former model and contributing editor to Vogue Lorraine Pascale opens her little black book to the capital, from the best roasts to Jivamukti yoga Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

HOME IS…

FAVOURITE ROAST LUNCH

Kensington. I’ve lived in the area for years as it’s central yet quiet and I have so many great restaurants and shops close by.

Roast in Borough Market does classic dishes with a twist so well. The cooking is second to none and there is a huge choice of seasonal roasts. roast-restaurant.com

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT

Roka in Fitzrovia is really fun; I love getting dressed up to go there. The atmosphere is very buzzy and they serve great cocktails. The Japanese food is excellent – I always order the black cod. rokarestaurant.com

MY GO-TO LOCAL SHOPS

The Chelsea Fishmonger is the only place I buy fish, and Space NK is my regular pitstop for beauty buys. thechelseafishmonger.co.uk spacenk.com

FAVOURITE NEW DISCOVERY

Farmacy in Notting Hill, which serves a plant-based menu. I’m a part-time vegan and it’s great to find a restaurant with food free from dairy and refined sugar – it’s super-healthy but so delicious. farmacylondon.com

MY GO-TO DESIGNERS AND SHOPS

BEST COCKTAIL

The lychee and rose martini from Bluebird in Chelsea is amazing. It has the perfect balance of sweetness and martini, and the splash of rose gives a floral finish. You have to be careful, though, as they are deceptively strong. bluebird-restaurant.co.uk

BLUEBIRD

FAVOURITE TERRACE

Sitting outside at The Ivy in Chelsea. When the weather starts to get warmer, it’s a great place to peoplewatch and enjoy the first Pimm’s of the season. theivychelseagarden.com

The International Designer Room at Harrods is my one-stop shop as it stocks all my favourite designers; Alaïa, Alexander McQueen, Ralph Lauren and Victoria Beckham. I often pop into Baar & Bass on King’s Road in Chelsea – its edit of interesting new labels you don’t see anywhere else is brilliant. On Sloane Street, Jitrois has some incredible fitted leather coats and Anne Fontaine is the only place for feminine shirts with clean lines. harrods.com baarandbass.com jitrois.com annefontaine.com

MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO WORK OUT

Triyoga, which has studios across the city [Camden, Chelsea, Covent Garden, Ealing, Shoreditch and Soho]. They have lots of classes for all abilities and the teachers are wonderful. They offer so many different types of yoga, too – I really like Jivamukti. triyoga.co.uk

FAVOURITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS

I’m a big fan of clean beauty. Ren has a great Evercalm range for deep cleansing that fixes break-outs. I also love Lola’s Apothecary – it’s a handmade range with beautiful packaging. I use its Delicate Romance shower and bath gel every day. Dr Hauschka’s facial toner brightens up my face and Mauli’ss Radiance Mask & Exfoliant is a complete game-changer for your skin. renskincare.com lolasapothecary.com dr.hauschka.com maulirituals.com

TRIYOGA

MY SIGNATURE SCENT IS… Tory Burch Signature.

I’VE CURRENTLY GOT MY EYE ON…

Alexander McQueen’s leather peplum biker jacket. alexandermcqueen.com THE IVY, CHELSEA

BAAR & BASS

LORRAINE MODELLING FOR CHANEL AW 1994

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The Glossary Spring 2018  

Dedicated to the finer things in life, The Glossary is London’s luxury ‘Little Black Book’ for the modern woman. The Glossary informs on the...

The Glossary Spring 2018  

Dedicated to the finer things in life, The Glossary is London’s luxury ‘Little Black Book’ for the modern woman. The Glossary informs on the...

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