TH E G LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E
FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S
ISSUE THREE JAN/FEB 2018 £5 WHERE SOLD
A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S
YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E
“Courage calls to courage everywhere, and its voice cannot be denied” – Millicent Fawcett
Millicent Fawcett C U LT U R E
Essential events STYLE
First look at the new trends SHOPPING
Fine jewellery & watches BEAUTY
Cult fragrances T R AV E L
Gourmet ski safari FOOD
Classic fine dining
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Amber Anderson models this season’s dreamiest looks
Featuring: Paloma Faith on MUSIC, Flora Alexandra Ogilvy on ART Mary Katrantzou on FASHION, Massimo Bottura on FOOD, Lara Bohinc on INTERIORS Jasmine Hemsley on WELLBEING, Trinny Woodhall’s LONDON COVER.indd 3
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CON I S S U E
T H R E E
Arts & Culture 15 AGENDA
Dates for your diary this season
23 A FINE FIGURE Leading suffragist Millicent Fawcett takes her place in Paliament Square
24 WHERE THE ART IS Curator and influencer Flora Alexandra Ogilvy tells us about her role within the arts world
30 KEEP THE FAITH Paloma Faith talks about motherhood and making a political statement through music
38 FASHION NOTES The designers and trends on our radar
40 SPECIAL K Mary Katrantzou introduces us to her Resort 2018 collection inspired by Walter Rothschild
48 A LIGHTER SHADE OF PALE Model and actress Amber Anderson in this seasonâ€™s most covetable nudes and blushes
59 SMOOTH OPERATOR Velvet continues into the new season
61 LOVE ON THE ROCKS Rubies and diamonds: the way to our hearts
62 THE NEW CLASSICS The best loved timepieces in updated form
48 Page 6
N TENTS Jan/Feb 2018
Beauty & Wellness 68 BEAUTY NOTES
The latest news and products
71 HEAVEN SCENT Our edit of the most seductive fragrances
74 MIND, BODY, SOUL Jasmine Hemsley on the transformative power of Ayurveda
76 WELLNESS NOTES The latest news and openings
Food & Drink 80 TASTING NOTES
Where to eat and what to drink
82 BREAKING BREAD Three Michelin-starred chef Massimo Bottura on why being a chef is less about ego and more about activism
Home & Interiors 102 DESIGN NOTES
Inspirations from the world of interiors
105 MIDNIGHT GARDEN Mix bold florals and gothic influences for a dramatic décor
108 QUEEN OF THE STONE AGE Jeweller Lara Bohinc on applying her geometric aesthetic to furniture
112 MY GLOSSARY Trinny Woodhall’s little black book
86 RESTAURANT REVIEWS Six classic restaurants that continue to impress
90 TRAVEL NOTES
92 SNOW IS FALLING The Italian Dolomites are renowned for being one of the most beautiful locations to ski and to eat. We find out why...
99 UK TRAVEL We visit The Lygon Arms after its multi-million pound refurbishment
RENEWED BY THE SEA A Daily Transformation The iconic Crème de la Mer renews and restores, immersing your skin in moisture and the renewing energies of our Miracle Broth™. Glowing with youthful radiance. #MyLaMerStory
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W E L CO M E
AN YOU FEEL IT? A CHANGE IS IN THE AIR – AND WE’RE NOT REFERRING TO THE SEASONS. The newspapers may be awash with stories of insidious sexual harassment and a gender pay gap that just won’t quit, but the recent 75th Golden Globes signified a renewed sense of hope. The black-out dress code and Oprah’s ‘hope for a brighter morning’ both lending greater reach and a splash of Hollywood glamour to fresh feminist movements such as #MeToo and #TimesUp – both of which look set to stay. To celebrate this new dawn, this issue focuses on incredible and inspiring women who are each doing it their way. We take a look at artist Gillian Wearing’s statue of suffragist Millicent Fawcett, the first of a female and the first by a female to be erected in Parliament Square (p23); singer Paloma Faith reveals how motherhood, Grenfell and Trump inspired her latest album (p30); Amber Anderson talks about transitioning from model to actor on her own terms – and her encounter with Harvey Weinstein (p48); Flora Alexandra Ogilvy tells us how she has established an art empire at the tender age of 23 (p24) plus fashion designer Mary Katrantzou introduces her Resort 2018 collection, shot by game-changing photographer Ellen Von Unwerth (p40). We also discover how Michelin-starred chef Massimo Bottura is tackling food waste (p82), the art of Ayurvedic cooking with Jasmine Hemsley (p74) and why jewellery designer Lara Bohinc’s luxe homewares are topping wish lists everywhere (p108). And for anyone in need of a shopping fix, we’ve got the lowdown on the new Resort collections, the ultimate classic watches (p62), the finest fragrances (p70), plus ruby and diamond jewellery to make you swoon (p61). Enjoy the issue.
T he Look of Love Make a bold statement this season
TOM FORD Ultra-Rich lipstick in Aphrodite, £40; harrods.com
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Douce du Desert satin pumps, £635; christianlouboutin.com
BELLA FREUD Close To My Heart perfume, £95; libertylondon.com
DOLCE & GABBANA Silk scarf, £155; net-a-porter.com
GUCCI Leather top handle bag, £2,350; gucci.com
PRADA Feather trim printed dress, £1,365; mytheresa.com
EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Gemma Ryder ACCOUNTS MANAGER: Amanda Clayton CONTRIBUTORS: Alexandra Jones, Avril Groom, Bethan Ryder, Beverley D’Silva, Claudia Baillie, Grace Cook, Harriet Quick, Hilary Armstrong, Julia Newcomb, Lizzie Pook, Megan Conner, Mollie McGuigan, Rachel Walker, Rachel Ward email@example.com | firstname.lastname@example.org | email@example.com | firstname.lastname@example.org Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited © 2018 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.
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CONTRIBUTORS J a n / Fe b 2 0 1 8
Avril Groom is a luxury goods writer and editor for a range of publications including the Financial Times, How to Spend It and The Telegraph.
Grace Cook is a freelance fashion and beauty journalist. Previously fashion writer at the Financial Times, she has contributed to Business of Fashion, FT Weekend magazine and British Airways’ High Life.
What are you most looking forward to fashion-wise this spring? I can’t wait to see Delpozo’s first show at London Fashion Week, having moved from New York – designer Josep Font is a really interesting talent.
What is your style resolution for this year? To stop buying beige trench coats. I have finally realised it may not be absolutely essential to have one in every shade of butter.
Which is your favourite watch (The New Classic, p62)? The Chanel Boy.Friend Tweed – it’s the perfect masculine/feminine mix with a genius metal tweed strap that looks so chic.
Mary Katrantzou Resort Collection 2018
What did you most admire about Mary Katrantzou (Special K, p40)? Her craftsmanship - Mary’s incredible embroideries are like something from a fairytale.
Megan Conner is a freelance celebrity interviewer and former commissioning editor at The Observer. She has contributed to publications including ELLE, Marie Claire and The Sunday Times.
Rachel Walker is a food writer and editor. Her work appears in a wide range of publications, from The Sunday Times to Waitrose magazine and Reader’s Digest.
Bethan Ryder is Digital Editor of Wallpaper* and was previously deputy editor of Telegraph Luxury. She has written about design for Elle Decoration, Design Week and Sunday Times Style.
Lizzie Pook is an award-winning writer. Her work has appeared in Stylist, The Telegraph, Guardian, Grazia and Marie Claire.
What are you planning to do more of this year? Holidays – I’m planning to visit friends in LA first.
What new restaurant are you most looking forward to opening this spring? Brat is going to be one of this year’s hottest launches. It’s Tomos Parry’s first solo restaurant (former Kitty Fisher’s chef), specialising in seafood with a wine list by The Noble Rot founders.
What did you most admire about Paloma Faith (Keep The Faith, p30)? Her brilliant sense of humour and that laugh – you can’t beat an infectious cackle!
What did you most admire about Massimo Bottura (Breaking Bread, p82)? Massimo is a true visionary and relentless campaigner hell bent on making the world a better place.
Which exhibition are you most excited to see this spring? I’m really looking forward to seeing the new look Hayward Gallery. What did you most admire about Lara Bohinc (Queen of the Stone Age, p108)? She manages to combine incredible talent with enviable style, plus she’s proof you can be super successful and also really nice.
What are you most looking forward to doing in London this year? Discovering the more weird and wonderful museums like The Old Operating Theatre Museum and The Museum of Witchcraft. What was the most memorable thing you ate or drank on the gourmet ski safari (From Piste to Feast, p92)? Definitely the Bombardinos (hot rum with egg nog and whipped cream). Outrageously good.
ARTS & The
All Too Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Painting Life Francis Bacon - Study for Portrait of Lucian Freud
28 FEBRUARY-27 AUGUST
A long-running exhibition, Tate Britainâ€™s All Too Human tells the story of figurative painting in Britain across the 20th century through more than 100 pieces of art. The works of heavyweights Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon are at its core and, among a number of pieces to be displayed for the first time in decades, is this 1964 portrait of Freud painted by Bacon. The pair had a famously complex relationship that ran the gamut from deep kinship to bitter rivalry. Using their influence as a centre-point, the show extends its reach to notable contemporaries including Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and RB Kitaj, all of whom sought new ways to depict the human condition through paint. tate.org.uk
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ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
ANOTHER KIND OF LIFE
Paz Errázuriz from the series La Manzana de Adán (Adam’s Apple), 1983
6 FEBRUARY-16 MARCH
One of the world's most famous operas, Georges Bizet’s Carmen is given a fresh lease of life in visionary director Barrie Kosky’s intense but captivating production. A highly physical version starring Anna Goryachova in the title role, it includes music that was originally written by Bizet for the score but never made it into the final production. A real treat. roh.org.uk
PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT PRIZE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
UNTIL 8 FEBRUARY
This fascinating exhibition looks at how individuals and communities that live on the fringes of society have been captured by 20 different photographers from the 1950s to the present day. Documenting prostitutes, circus performers, cross-dressers and more, Another Kind of Life: Photography on the Margins exposes how attitudes to different subcultures, countercultures and minorities have changed over time. 28 February-27 May, barbican.org.uk
Explore some of the finest portrait photography in the world at the annual competition and exhibition. This year’s line-up was drawn from 5,717 submissions entered by 2,423 photographers from 66 countries. There are 59 works on display, including César Dezfuli’s powerful winning shot of 16-year-old Malian migrant Amadou Sumaila.
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
Modigliani TATE MODERN UNTIL 2 APRIL
A 100-strong presentation of paintings by Italian painter Amedeo Modigliani make up Tate Modern’s current big exhibition. Bursting with the elongated figures he’s known for, there‘s also some surprises in the form of portraits of his peers, including Picasso and Toulouse-Lautrec.
ROSE WYLIE: QUACK QUACK Serpentine Sackler Gallery UNTIL 11 FEBRUARY
British painter Rose Wylie didn’t get her big break until she was in her seventies, but since then her success has come at quite a pace. Her first major solo show, Quack Quack, draws on her childhood memories of growing up in Kensington during the blitz, and daily musings about the world around her.
The Little Peasant, c.1918, Medium Oil paint on canvas, 1000 x 645 mm, Tate, presented by Miss Jenny Blaker in memory of Hugh Blaker 1941; Jacques and Berthe Lipchitz, 1916, Oil on canvas, 813 x 543 mm, The Art Institute of Chicago; Portrait of a Young Woman, 1918, Oil paint on canvas, 457 x 280 mm, Yale University Art Gallery
GIRLS & BOYS
N atio n al T h eatre 25 February-12 May Tickets for Rufus Norris’ production of Shakespeare’s dark tragedy are currently the hottest in town. Part of a new season featuring three Shakespeare plays, Macbeth stars Rory Kinnear and Anne-Marie Duff star as the scheming and murderous husband and wife. After selling out, the National has extended the run and will release new dates on January 26. nationaltheatre.org.uk
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Ro yal Co u rt
8 February-17 March This February, Oscarnominated actor Carey Mulligan returns to the stage to star in Dennis Kelly’s latest play, Girls & Boys, at the Royal Court. The tale of two people who fall in love after a chance meeting at an airport, their passionate affair is followed by humdrum domesticity, before things go awry and their lives take an alarming turn. royalcourttheatre.com
Lyttleton Theatre Until 24 March When long-serving news anchor Howard Beale unravels live on air, it proves to be ratings gold and saves his failing career. Or does it? Lee Hall’s adaptation of Paddy Chayefsky’s 1976 film, starring Bryan Cranston as the wild-eyed Beale, has garnered rave reviews and caused a race for tickets. ‘Rush’ tickets go on sale online at 1pm on Fridays. nationaltheatre.org.uk
Hay Festival HAY-ON-WYE
Winnie-thePooh: Exploring a Classic V&A
24 MAY-3 JUNE
UNTIL 8 APRIL
The literary festival’s full 2018 programme isn’t released until spring, but it’s already shaping up to be a spectacular year. Confirmed so far are Margaret Atwood, who will discuss her dystopian masterpiece, The Handmaid’s Tale, plus Philip Pullman who will explore ‘wonder tales’ with Marina Warner and Jack Zipes. hayfestival.com
Pooh Bear gets his own retrospective in this extensive exhibition exploring how AA Milne’s creation became such a loved figure. Sketches, letters, photographs and memorabilia plot the history of Pooh and explain his enduring appeal among adults and children alike. vam.ac.uk
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE UNTIL 9 MARCH
The greatest of all romantic ballets, Marius Petipa’s classic is a tale of betrayal, the supernatural and love that transcends death. Peter Wright’s production for The Royal Ballet is based on Petipa’s classic version (after the original 1841 choreography by Jules Perrot and Jean Coralli), which was first staged in St Petersburg in 1884. roh.org.uk
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
GILBERT & GEORGE: The Beard Pictures and Their F*ckosophy WHITE CUBE, BERMONDSEY ‘Please note that this exhibition contains multiple swear words’: so reads the warning that comes before this travelling exhibition. Would you expect anything less from Gilbert & George? Works on display are as psychedelic, arresting and non-conformist as you would hope - and the images of G&G peering out from behind beards will haunt you for days. Until 28 January, whitecube.com
BRIDGET RILEY: RECENT PAINTINGS 2014-2017 DAVID ZWIRNER GALLERY UNTIL 10 MARCH A three-floor show of previously unseen works - all completed within the last four years - by beloved British artist Bridget Riley. The eye-popping works include large-scale wall paintings and pieces on canvas, all expanding on the two recurring themes of her career: black-and-white and the disc. With a career spanning more than 50 years, Riley's were some of the original works to be displayed in New York's MoMA as part of the seminal 1965 exhibition, The Responsive Eye, an exhibition which launched the Op Art movement onto the world stage. davidzwirner.com
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Minjung Kim: The Memory of Process WHITE CUBE, MASONâ€™S YARD 26 JANUARY-10 MARCH 2018
Discover how memories and personal experiences inform the work of artist Minjung Kim, who trained in Korean watercolour and calligraphy from the age of nine. One of the few female heirs of the Dansaekhwa (Korean monochrome painting) movement, this White Cube exhibition is the first truly comprehensive survey of her work in the UK. whitecube.com
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
Andreas Gursky HAYWARD GALLERY
25 JANUARY – 22 APRIL Here’s one not to miss: the first exhibition to take place at the Hayward since its two-year renovation, and the first large-scale UK retrospective of German photographer Andreas Gursky. The artist’s impressive modern landscapes, which have captured everything from Amazon’s warehouses (pictured above) and urban flat blocks, to fields of solar panels and supermarket shelves, make for a fitting start to the gallery’s 2018 schedule.
Olympic in dry dock, about 1911. © Getty images
Ocean Liners: Speed & Style V&A
3 FEBRUARY - 17 JUNE Ever wondered what it would have been like to set sail on one of the world’s greatest ocean liners? Join the V&A for its first major exhibition of the year as it brings to life this romantic age of travel via the architecture, interiors and on-board fashion of luxury vessels such as the Titanic, the Queen Mary and the Canberra.
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Ayurvedic Man: Encounters With Indian Medicine WELLCOME COLLECTION UNTIL 8 APRIL
Charles I: King and Collector ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS 27 JANUARY-15 APRIL
During his lifetime, King Charles I amassed one of the greatest art collections of all time, acquiring works by Titian and Holbein, and commissioning Van Dyck and Rubens. Credited with changing the tastes of a nation, the king’s collection was sold off following his execution in 1649, making this assemblage of more than 100 pieces all the more noteworthy.
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Yoakim Belanger, Light Warrior VII, Mixed media on aluminium, 122x81cm, 2017
Anthony van Dyck, Charles I (detail), 1635-6, Oil on canvas, 84.4 x 99.4 cm. RCIN 404420. Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2017.
Using artefacts from Wellcome Collection’s archives - including surgical tools and erotic manuals, plus specially commissioned art - Ayurvedic Man explores the history of Ayurvedic medicine and addresses the question of ‘Who owns medical heritage… and what is the contemporary relevance of collections built from colonial encounters?’ wellcomecollection.org
Affordable Art Fair BATTERSEA PARK 8-11 MARCH 2018
Calling all art lovers: the Affordable Art Fair returns to Battersea Park for four days this spring. Showing thousands of contemporary works from more than 100 galleries, it aims to offer something for every taste and budget. Want to dive in deeper? Take one of its many workshops or guided tours. affordableartfair.com
A R T S & C U LT U R E
Don't miss 100 YEARS CENTENARY
A fine figure At long last, leading suffragist Millicent Fawcett takes her place among the male statues of Parliament Square Words RACHEL WARD
his February a peaceful and long overdue revolution is set to take place on London’s Parliament Square as the first commemorative statue of a woman takes its position among a multitude of males. A bronze casting of Dame Millicent Garrett Fawcett (1847-1929), the feminist and constitutional campaigner, its unveiling will commemorate 100 years of women’s suffrage. Perhaps a less well-known figure than say Emmeline Pankhurst, Fawcett defined herself as a suffragist and advocated peaceful and legal means as opposed to
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the more militant approach of the suffragettes, whose mantra was ‘deeds not words’. A key figure in the movement from the beginning to the end, Fawcett helped secure the voting rights of women of property over the age of 30 in the 1918 Representation of the People Act and continued to campaign tirelessly until women were given electoral equality with men in 1928. The driving force behind Fawcett’s statue is journalist and activist Caroline Criado-Perez, who also successfully campaigned to feature Jane Austen on £10 bank notes. It was during a jog through Parliament Square in May 2016 when she noticed that the 11 existing statues, Nelson Mandela and Sir Winston Churchill amongst them, were all male. Compelled to start a petition, she quickly attracted more than 84,000 signatures and high-profile supporters such as JK Rowling and Emma Watson.
The resulting commission was given to Turner Prize-winning artist Gillian Wearing, who will simultaneously become the first female artist to create a statue for the iconic square. Her sculpture will portray Fawcett in 1897 at the age of 50, the year the non-violent National Union of Women’s Suffrage Societies of which she was leader for more than 20 years, was founded. Stood defiantly facing Parliament, the statue will show the suffragist holding a placard that reads ‘Courage calls to courage everywhere’, a rallying cry from a speech Fawcett gave after the infamous death of campaigner Emily Wilding Davison at the Epsom Derby in 1913. In the spirit of inclusivity, the plinth will also name-check 52 other suffrage campaigners (including a couple of men) who all pushed for votes for women. Today, it’s strange to think that women once had no place in politics, yet out of 650 MPs elected in 2017 only 208 were female – and that was a record breaker. So while the statue of Fawcett is a welcome celebration of how far we’ve come in the quest for equality, let it also serve as a reminder of how far we’ve yet to go. fawcettsociety.org.uk
ART is A CEO at the age of 23 and 45th in line to the throne… Meet curator, influencer and Arteviste founder Flora Alexandra Ogilvy Words BEVERLEY D’SILVA Photography ANDREW GOUGH
LORA ALEXANDRA OGILVY STRIDES IN TO THE DOT PROJECT GALLERY, looking fresh as fresh could be. Outside, frozen sleet coats the Fulham Road, and the air is bitterly crisp in sub-zero temperatures. Ogilvy, meanwhile, seems impervious to the cold climate. The wintry weather enveloping London seems entirely appropriate, given the title of the new group art exhibition I’m here to discuss: Love In A Cold Climate. The show is curated by Ogilvy and India Whalley, founder of The Dot Project, a beautiful space that reflects Ogilvy’s interior design background. It features six artists – Scarlett Bowman, Sang Woo Kim, Milla Eastwood, Jack Penny, Romana Londi and Maximilian Magnus – and has attracted great reviews. Ogilvy, who’s only just turned 23, founded Arteviste, a digital platform that focuses on emerging artists. She talks affectionately of the artwork around us, referring to them as if they’re friends – which in a way they are, as the artists have become great companions. “I’ve known Jack Penny and Scarlett Bowman forever,” she says. “The others are now part of my life. My work is about the friendship – I’m not in it for the money.” We take in some of the works. Jack Penny, 29, was born in Chichester and still works out of west Sussex. The show features some riotously vibrant and spontaneous canvases, heavy with turquoise and salmon-pink hues, with nods to Fauvism and Fernand Leger. Penny’s painting is “motivated by a search for authenticity. Jack invites the audience to explore, challenge and react to the work,” says Ogilvy. Scarlett Bowman, 32, was born and works in London. She creates collages from sculptural fragments to process the visual world. “There is so much information in the world; the assemblage process enables me to slow down and figure out what is in front of me.” There’s the sweet, childlike works of Milla Eastwood, 27, whose more abstract compositions have a “more suggestive relation to drawing”. The London-based artist says her approach is to “pare down to the essence, but don’t remove the poetry. Keep things clean and unencumbered, but don’t sterilise”. Sang Woo Kim, 23, has been snapped up by the fashion world. Kim has modelled for Burberry and been filmed as Cara Delevingne’s lover for a DKNY campaign. However, art has stolen his heart: his exciting abstract, textured paintings riff on a fractured
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
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identity from being born in Seoul and raised in London. The show also features Italian Romana Londi, whose paintings play with the effects of light and UV rays, and whose canvases become all encompassing. And Maximilian Magnus, 33, from Bavaria, Germany, the maker of emotional, swirling abstract expressionist shapes. Love In A Cold Climate is in line with both Ogilvy and Whalley’s remit: to inspire a new generation of young collectors while connecting to seasoned art professionals. Arteviste’s ‘digital platform’ tagline has been instrumental: all six artists in the show were found through Instagram. “We are celebrating the fact our generation is empowered by technology and can use the internet, Instagram, Twitter [and] Facebook to get forward in life,” says Ogilvy. While all these artists are young, she points out: “It’s not about age, it’s more that all the artists we work with are very active digitally, on the scene, with a good online presence.” Kim, for example, has around 84,000 followers on Instagram. “The fact they’re already out there online makes them very easy for us to work with.” Ogilvy’s not
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making money from the artists – “It’s more about developing friendships with them” – she earns a living by giving lectures on art and business, and collaborating with established art organisations, such as Soho House, Artnet, and Frieze. “Although I am young myself I like to talk to young people about how to be more proactive in building an online presence and using technology to further their careers.” She has lectured on this at the Courtauld Institute, Imperial College and Christie’s, and is happy that it “always attracts passionate young people as well as more established figures who want to get involved”. The show’s title, a reference to the 1949 Nancy Mitford novel – a funny, subversive tale about aristocratic women – also brings us to Ogilvy’s own aristocratic background. She grew up in Scotland, and is the daughter of James and Julia Ogilvy. Her father is one of the Queen’s godsons, and his parents were the late Sir Angus Ogilvy and Princess Alexandra. She is the Queen’s second cousin twice removed (if you can follow that genetic conundrum, you’re a better person than I). She is 45th in line to the throne. You may have seen Ogilvy on the royal balcony
beside Prince Harry and Camilla and other royals. But when asked about her family, she seems ill at ease and unhappy about discussing family matters. “It [the aristocracy] is wonderful to be part of but it is quite separate from my working life in the art world and it doesn’t affect anything.” One wonders whether she has grown careful since she posted a picture on social media in May last year, depicting her great-uncles Prince Michael and the Duke of Kent, having tea at the Richmond Park house of their sister, her grandmother, Princess Alexandra. The picture is still out there on the internet. It was probably an innocent move on her part – just one image among myriad posts – but one can imagine it might not have gone down well. Hence her caution around anything to do with her aristocratic connections. Ogilvy is, however, happy to mention Timothy Taylor, her gallerist cousin, and actress/writer Sophie Windsor, and her cousin Edward Downpatrick – “he’s helming an impressive lifestyle brand, FIDIR, in celebration of Scotland” – who she shares a flat with. Whether she is a princess’ granddaughter or has an “honourable” title is beside the point. In the contemporary art world, she is already a reasonably well established. Given the volume of arts inter-views she conducts, talks she gives to A-listers and art dinners she has/is/will be hosting, maybe an appropriate title would be “the omnipresent Flora Ogilvy”.
“Beach Ball, Signpost, Marble, Wood”, 2017 Acrylic and Oil on Canvas
A R T S & C U LT U R E
“We are celebrating the fact our generation is empowered by technology"
MAXIMILIAN MAGNUS “Dance IT”, 2017 Acrylic on Canvas
Being everywhere has been a recurring theme: “We were based in Ely, north of Edinburgh, but I travelled with my parents. Their businesses kept us on the move.” Her father is a landscape designer and photographer, her mother was a
“Lounging on the Edge of Abstraction”, 2017 Oil on Canvas
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jeweller. “I was brought friends – actors, artists, musicians – who up with this sense of I can now make art or music casually, in cross-pollination their studio or while they’re practising for between industries. a gig, and that’s wonderful.” She often “And where I grew works with Alice Sinclair, an actress who’s up attracts [many] now a poet. wonderful creative Ogilvy cut her teeth as an editor at The types, lots and lots of Gentlemen’s Journal and The Rake Scandinavians, Magazine. Before that, while commuting Americans, Japanese, back and forth from New York to London, all gravitating to St she conceived Arteviste. “I saw that there Andrews University.” were many companies on the periphery of She studied history of the art market who wanted to reinspire art at Bristol – while their audiences, and artists with huge doing internships at online followings who needed support. Plus Christie’s and Sotheby’s brands, businesses, auction houses who in Paris – and has always wanted to prove they were engaged with been creative: besides a younger market.” drawing and making She began to build Arteviste, creating art, she plays guitar and editorial, video and events-based content to sings. “I perform in two showcase emerging artists across London, folk bands, one in the States called the Berlin and New York. Now the site regularly Selkies. We do coffee shops and people’s organises and hosts artist talks, panel houses.” She taught life drawing from 17 before moving alone at that age to New York. “I was always independent. In New York I began to work as an arts provider and got a taste for the working world. I think growing up around inspiring people – my teachers at Rugby school and my parents’ friends – I was never limited by age.” She has had to work hard to prove herself, though: “But that’s fine – I love to perform and I love public speaking and meeting different people.” The digital age is now in her veins, but she says, “it wasn’t until my late teens that social media became a big part of my life.” She thinks her career has been helped by coming “quite fresh to London without a huge back story. I found this SANG WOO KIM extraordinary group of “(Untitled uneven diptych) crying to shout”, 2017
A R T S & C U LT U R E ROMANA LONDI
“The Secret Lives of People in Love No12”, 2017 Mixed media on Canvas Board
discussions and supper clubs, in tandem with blue chip arts companies to “inspire and diversify their audiences as well as bringing them the inside track on the emerging art market, give an insider perspective, make the arts world more accessible. Everyone involved with Arteviste came from within the arts.” Ogilvy and Whalley are on a mission to reinstate west London as a focal point for modern art: appropriate as Chelsea housed the first art studios in the 1870s; it was only in the past century that commercial enterprises forced artists out of the west end’s prime areas. Ogilvy says: “We host a dinner once a month in artists’ studios and collectors’ homes, with that we are championing west London.” Portobello Road market and her friends there are “a huge part of my life”. Her day is indisputably crammed: “a huge part of it is being out and about, on the scene, talking to people”. I ask her whether she has time for a love relationship, and she rolls her eyes.“I can’t even think about going there!” For her sanity, she begins the day at 6am with a workout at Box Clever Sports, a boxing gym close to her Notting Hill home. “Those morning boxing workouts are a must for me. I need to stay strong and have stamina for the sort of work I do,” she says. Then she goes home, turns off all devices and writes her journal in silence. “With my generation, it can be tempting to be on social media at all times, even through the night. We need to be more disciplined about technology.” She’s rigorous too about writing thank-you letters. “I write about 25 a week,
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thanking people for every event that I attend.” She travels a lot but when in London, she organises her day “geographically – I do west, east, or central London. I have two days a week in Mayfair for meetings”. She does an artist studio or gallery visit by day, and openings and dinners, or music nights in the evening. “A huge amount of socialising happens in people’s homes. I now have so many friends on this scene, it feels a lot more relaxed”. Looking ahead, she’s working with Lamb Arts: “This month we’ll do a dinner for the brilliant photographer Kate Bellm, who’s based in New York and Mexico.” While she finds the art world fairly egalitarian, she concedes: “Women do have to fight for their position in this industry. I often feel that being female and a bit younger, means I have to really assert myself.” London is especially supportive to women, she finds. “I’ve gotten to know brilliant women and we help each other. There is a sisterhood that exists in the arts.” Listing women she’s found inspiring, she begins a roll call – Ginevra Fiorentini, of Presenza; Stella Powell-Jones, theatre director; Petra Palumbo, the model and heiress; artist Faye Wei Wei… When she gets stuck she refers to her Instagram feed – which is endless – as an aide-mémoire. She adds the Serpentine’s Yana Peel; designer Anya Hindmarch; Whistles supremo Lucille Lewin; gallerist Hannah Barry, and Isabel Ettedgui of Connolloy. Last October, Arteviste collaborated with the luxury clothing and leather brand, and The New Craftsmen store on an event with Pedro Da Costa Felgueiras, a Portugueseborn paint specialist who revamped Connolly’s Mayfair headquarters. Ogilvy and her team also have an ongoing collaboration with Dolce and Gabbana – she has a six-month modelling contract with the brand, and wears their clothes and bags when giving talks. The team has also been dressed by Levi’s jeans for projects. “Oh, how could I forget?” she exclaims. ‘I absolutely must also credit my parents for their fine example,” recalling that her father used to run Luxury Briefing, the monthly intelligence report, and her mother is now an author based at Harvard University. In the end, some of the best things do come down to family matters.
GLOSSARY TOP SHOP My favourite London shop is Connolly, for their gorgeous leather goods and immaculate tailoring. I have loved working with them, particularly on the refurbishment of their Clifford Street headquarters. Connolly, 4 Clifford Street, Mayfair, W1 connollyengland.com BEST MARKET Portobello Road, near to where I live, is London’s most exciting vintage market. I go on Friday mornings rather than Saturdays, when you’re more likely to come across the real finds. I trawl for a mixture of vintage tailoring and independent fashion labels. Portobello Road, Notting Hill, W10 MUSIC Upstairs at Ronnie’s at Ronnie Scott’s on Tuesday nights – it’s a fun night featuring young musicians, and I catch a set whenever I can. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 7 Frith Street, Soho, W1 ronniescotts.co.uk GALLERY: Timothy Taylor, a cousin of mine, has a brilliant gallery, which does very cool Asian art. Timothy Taylor, 15 Carlos Place, Mayfair, W1; timothytaylor.com DRINKING The French House in Soho is my favourite place for a glass of wine in the evenings. I like to stand outside drinking with all my friends. The French House, 49 Dean Street, W1; frenchhousesoho.com
The Dot Project 94, Fulham Road, Chelsea, SW3 thedotproject.com arteviste.com
“Kwel”, 2017 Oil, Oil Stick and Chalk Pen on Canvas
Returning with a number-one album, Paloma Faith talks about becoming a mother, being the breadwinner and why politics has a place in her music Words MEGAN CONNER
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omehow, it seems appropriate that Paloma Faith should be dressed in floor-skimming deep-red velvet for breakfast. It’s one of London’s sunniest winter days, not nearly the weekend – just a Wednesday – but Faith, poised in a low-level armchair, looks like she’s about to go to the opera. We’re actually sitting in the library of Notting Hill member’s club The Electric, a windowless room of warmwhite lamps, wood panelling and opulent drapes. Faith is here for a morning of interviews, the poached eggs are on their way and very soon the impractically small round table between us will pile up with china dishes and teapots. The dress, a high-necked, long-sleeved vintage affair trimmed with feathers and paired with mock snakeskin boots, feels typical. Faith is the woman you’d say is never knowingly underdressed, although the musician argues that’s no longer the case. “Having a baby completely interferes with fashion,” she says, rolling her eyes, beaming the trademark wide grin, smoothing down hastily blow dried hair. These days the scramble of getting to work without childcare could not be more real. “One minute I am in my pyjamas doing toast for the baby,” she grins, “the next I’m supposed to be here.” The past 12 months or so have been personally defining for Faith. After years of talking about the fact she wanted children, she became a mother in November 2016, at 35. “It changed everything,” she says. “Even the way I sing is different now: it’s probably psychological, but my voice has opened up in a different way. I feel completely strengthened by it.” Birth itself was “hell”, and after a 20hour labour that ended in an emergency C-section, Faith publicly thanked the NHS at London’s University College Hospital. It then emerged that she had an infection in her womb. “It was quite a bad time,” she remembers of the months that followed. “I felt really set back by it. I breast fed for five months and that was hard because I was ill. But it was longer before I was back to myself. Things like eating a healthy diet… I couldn’t get my head around that for ages. Or going to the gym…” she pulls a face. “Everything new mums go through: at one point I was just sitting there thinking, ‘How am I going to be a person any more?’” She chuckles now, a laugh as distinctive as the east London inflection to her voice,
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and at maximum capacity, a full-on cackle. Later she will tell a humorous anecdote about couriering breast milk from a recording studio to her house. But there’s an undercurrent of anxiety during our interview, and accompanying her return to the spotlight. When we meet, she’s about to release The Architect, her first album in three years. It’s a record she started writing before she fell pregnant and finished soon after the baby arrived, because she wanted to make a comeback straight after her maternity leave. “I needed to get back to work because I’m the breadwinner in my family,” she says now, explaining that her partner, French artist Leyman Lahcine, is currently interning at a fashion-design company. “But also, I know how easy it is to be forgotten in this industry.” Did she really worry about taking time off, three triple-platinum selling albums in? “Yeah. I remember being with my
“I wanted to write this album because I think we’re in a really transitional moment politically and socially" accountant one day on maternity leave, and I kept making these little asides, ‘If I ever get to work again…’ And eventually he said, ‘Paloma, do you know my wife left her job to have a baby, had all these ideas on maternity leave and went back to the company as a director? People do it.’ And to be honest, that sort of got my head in gear.” Faith’s music is usually high drama. In the past, she has written candidly about love and heartbreak; the signature of her songs is soulful poignancy. The Architect is a departure from her usual style in that it’s rooted in politics, taking in everything from the refugee crisis to Brexit. Her new single, ‘Guilty’, is addressed to those who voted leave and regretted it. “I wanted to write this album because I think we’re in a really transitional moment politically and socially,” she says. “But also, there aren’t many women addressing it in pop music. Lily Allen used to do a
little bit of social commentary about the environment she was in and Kate Nash was in a punk band that nobody really knew about, but the examples are actually few and far between.” When planning the album, she looked back to the ’60s and ’70s. “My influences are fairly predictable, much the same as lots of my peers: Billie Holiday, Nina Simon, Etta James, Carole King. The reason I love their songs so much is because they’re saying something about their social climate.” But the feel of the new album is contemporary, and her songs could easily be mistaken for odes to exes. Faith says this was intentional: “I made a conscious effort to make it sound commercial, so that people still felt close to it.” Most of the time she was writing, she was pregnant. “Writing with a baby growing inside you makes it feel personal. It got me thinking about all the qualities I wanted my child to have and that one day they were going to get to listen to it.” It’s why she called the record The Architect, and why the overall theme became social responsibility. “Because otherwise, whose responsibility is all this stuff ? It’s the police, it’s the community, it’s parenting. But it’s not just one person’s – it’s collective. It’s all of us.” She cites the ongoing investigation into the Grenfell Tower fire as a recent example. “People say, ‘Oh, it’s not my fault,’ but it never is one person’s fault. That’s why inevitably the court is not going to conclude anything.” And it’s the same with the #MeToo movement that has emerged since the claims of Harvey Weinstein’s sexual assaults: “We do have a responsibility because somehow our culture accepts builders who whistle at women, and someone grabbing someone’s bum when they’re a bit drunk. That’s everyday sexism and that’s where it begins.” Writing the album made her think about how to parent. Faith says she has declined to reveal the sex or name of her baby because she’d rather their life remain private. Recently, she told a journalist that she had decided to raise her child as “gender neutral” – a term she now regrets because she used it in the wrong context. “What I meant was that I don’t believe in giving my child gender-specific toys. I want to make everything available because
FA S H I O N
I don’t want to enforce any sexist stereotypes.” It’s also the reason she won’t dress her baby in pink or blue. “Besides the fact I don’t even think it looks cute. I actually think it looks a bit grim,” she says. As a kid, she was a tomboy. “I never used to wear dresses. I hated dolls. But my style is quite feminine now.” She grew up on a council estate in Hackney, to a single parent mother, and has always been a bargain hunter. “I shop a lot but it’s mainly vintage” she explains. In fact, when she’s bought expensive things, it’s usually been under the influence of other people. Her personal assistant sent her to Selfridges after she won a BRIT (for Best Female Solo Artist in 2015), and she nearly bought a pair of Manolo heels. “But most of the time I borrow things, and
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to be honest, I spend my money on experiences.” If she could escape London tomorrow, she’d go back to the Maldives. “It was the height of luxury. Everything you looked at was like a screensaver.” She smiles. “But that’s unlikely right at the moment.” Things are different now, with a baby. These days she rarely goes out on the town, preferring to stay in and catch up on sleep. Never in her life has she watched so much television. “I’m obsessed with Louis Theroux’s series. I’m good friends with Kayvan Novak, who’s the Fonejacker, and he leaves me voice notes pretending to be Louis walking around my house. He’ll go, ‘‘Paloma’s being a bit volatile today…’” she giggles. Soon the tide will turn again. In March, Faith will embark on a nationwide arena
tour, starting in Leeds and moving around the country for a month. Shortly after we meet, The Architect sails to number one in the charts. Her publicist sends me a note about how she’ll celebrate; it’s the first time one of her albums has ever hit the top spot. She hadn’t planned to go out, but by pure coincidence they’ve got a babysitter for the night. “The whole time I was thinking about releasing another new album, I was thinking how do I do both? How do I have a baby and sing?” I remember her saying to me. As it turns out, and if the force of her determination was anything to go by, she needn’t have been so worried. Paloma Faith plays London’s 02 Arena on 14 March; palomafaith.com
professional hair, care & styling www.balmainhair.com
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Real Unreal Spanish artist and illustrator Ignasi Monreal goes on a cultural odyssey for Gucci’s S/S18 campaign. There are no photographs but instead, the photorealist paintings – entitled ‘Utopian Fantasy’ – are as surreal, hyper-saturated and remarkable as the collection itself. Gucci, 34 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 gucci.com
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Fashion Notes Look forward to lilac, snap up Céline and embrace the return of kitten heels
KITTEN COLLECTIVE Prada’s debut on online boutique Moda Operandi sees an exclusive collaboration with the Italian label’s iconic kitten heel reimagined. The capsule 20-piece collection features sling-back styles with 55mm heels in bold colours, many also come with removable, statement, printed bows. Prada Kitten Heels, from £771;
Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
End of an era
It’s official: after 10 years at the helm of French fashion house Céline, creative director Phoebe Philo, is stepping down. The minimalist designer who changed the way we dress, will present her final collection for AW18 at Paris Fashion Week in March; stock up on key pieces such as this trenchcoat (above) whilst you can. 103 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1;
SHEER ROMANCE Avid art collector Erdem Moralioglu used the surrealist paintings of Sylvia Fein and Leonora Carrington, and the abstract collages of the German Dada artist Hannah Höch as inspiration for his heavily embellished Resort collection. Hand-embroidered chiffons and brocades, 40’s tea dresses and pastel feather boa’s made for a romantic celebration of English eccentricity by Erdem, who continues to fuse modern elegance with wearability and couture-level craftsmanship.
70 Audley Street, Mayfair, W1; erdem.com
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e Lady Dior Art #2 project sees ten international artists including Jamila Okubo, Friedrich Kunath and Lee Bul (pictured) redesign the iconic bag as a limited-edition collectable. From £4,200 dior.com
For Resort 2018, Olivia von Halle presents the Los Angeles collection which features painterly florals, oversized Swarovski buttons and a bold jewel colour palette inspired by Elizabeth Taylor. Dressing up for bed has never been so much fun. Lila silk pyjama set,£380 190 Pavilion Road, Chelsea, SW3
‘Ultra Violet’ may have been named the colour of 2018 by Pantone, but fashion insiders have been calling it’s paler sister, lilac the shade of the year since last September. The catwalks of Victoria Beckham, Nina Ricci, Michael Kors and Gucci were filled with ice cream shades of mauve, lavender and parma violet if you needed further proof. We predict that lilac will take over from millennial pink as the colour of choice this year - expect to see it everywhere come the summer season.
THE VAMPIRES WIFE Borrowing its name from husband Nick Cave’s abandoned book, The Vampire’s Wife is the design brainchild of former model Susie Bick. The underthe-radar label’s signature dresses offer a feminine silhouette with a high round neck, nipped-in waist and frilly sleeves; combined with a dreamy colour palette and ditsy floral Liberty prints there’s a distinctly 50’s vibe. This style-set secret is already a go-to brand for Alexa Chung, Sienna Miller, Florence Welch and Kylie Minogue. Available at Liberty London and thevampireswife.com
JOOSTRICOT Knitted sweater £330; matchesfashion.com
BAMBAH Satin pencil skirt £410; farfetch.com
GUCCI Velvet blazer £1,610; gucci.com
DORATEYMUR Nizip suede boots £410; brownsfashion.com GARRETT LEIGHT Valencia 54 sunglasses £330; modaoperandi.com
CHARLOTTE DRESS £795
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LIBERTY DRESS £830
GLORIA DRESS £895
Designer Mary Katrantzou introduces her Resort 2018 collection and explains how the work of a Victorian natural scientist opened up a whole new world of print-making possibilities Words GRACE COOK Photography ELLEN VON UNWERTH Stylist ERICA PELOSINI
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VEDDAR BLOUSE £650 UNI SKIRT £850
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ADDESDON MANOR IS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL ESTATE,” said Mary Katrantzou, dressed in her signature black and flanked either side by three couture dresses she designed for the ‘Creatures & Creations’ exhibition in Buckinghamshire. One gown, titled the 'Delias', was made to look like butterfly wings; the lightness and movement of the flutter conveyed through 11 layers of whisper-thin, accordion-pleat lamé spun with metallic threads. Another – the Papillon – was a kaleidoscopic collage of entomology, upon which insects were handcrafted from thousands of glinting crystals. Katrantzou had been invited by the current baron, Jacob Rothschild, to participate in the exhibition; the Greek designer was tasked with reinterpreting the late Walter Rothschild’s phenomenal zoological collection in garment form. Her gowns were displayed throughout the manor house, alongside Rothschild’s tropical taxidermies and works by digital artist Platon H. The exhibit, held from June to October last year, was cohosted by the Natural History Museum. Katrantzou’s involvement made perfect sense: if anyone can capture the vitality of a stuffed bird, it’s Mary. The designer, who founded her label in 2008, has been renowned for her hyper real prints ever since she sent her collection of Trompe L’Oeil dresses down the runway in her Central Saint Martins graduate show. “Being invited by Lord Rothschild is a huge honour,” she said. But Katrantzou’s dalliance with the Rothschilds did not end there. She remained inspired by the zoologist and, realising the potential for further creations, delved deeper still into Rothschild’s natural habitat for her Resort 2018 collection. That Katrantzou’s earliest memory of London is of being bewitched by London Zoo aged seven – a place she has previously described as a ‘magical world’ – is also relevant. It’s no surprise that Rothschild –and Waddesdon Manor –put Katrantzou’s printthinking mind into overdrive. A family of German origin, the British Rothschilds were elevated to aristocratic status by Queen Victoria in 1847. One of the richest families in European nobility, the Rothschilds owned lavish chateaux and manor houses all over the world. Waddesdon, a neo-Renaissance country estate set in 6,000 acres, with its flocked wallpapers, fountains and endless rolling gardens, was the family home, built to entertain high society dukes and debutantes. But it was Walter Rothschild, the second Baron Rothschild, that really captivated Katrantzou. An eccentric Dr Dolittle of sorts, as a child in Victorian England, he kept kangaroos and exotic birds as pets. As an adult, he once mounted a tortoise to prove they could be trained, and regularly rode a carriage drawn by zebras. Rothschild became a natural scientist of such repute that many newly discovered species were named after him, including reptiles, millipedes and even a giraffe. During his life, Rothschild amassed the biggest zoological collection ever owned by a private individual; it included millions of butterflies and hundreds of thousands of birds of paradise and beetles. It was here that Katrantzou took inspiration for Resort. The archive “opened up a huge spectrum for possibility, [allowing me to] create surrealism out of realism and possibility out of impossibility,” says Katrantzou, who spent hours analysing the specimens within Rothschild’s collection to reinterpret them into prints. “Digital printing allows me to experiment with print in a way that fine art and other methods could not,” she says. “Print can filter beauty found in design in a subversive way.” It’s a time-consuming craft: Katrantzou’s patterns famously take four days each to create. For Resort 2018 – across tulles and iridescent jacquards – feathers, fish scales and snake skins were printed and embroidered in beads and sequins, each sewn by hand. Katrantzou works with teams of artisans in both London and India to produce the delicate handwork found in her collections. So important is craft to her designs, she employs a small number of in-house embroiderers at her north London studio, and is one of the few designers to do so. Most designers outsource production – even for samples – to India, where handcraft is not only cherished, but taught. But for Katrantzou, it’s essential to have a team on hand to experiment with embroidery. The designer also employs a number of freelance craftsmen-and-women in the run up
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PHOENIX DRESS Â£3,100
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FALCON CAPE Â£1,990
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MERLIN ROBE Â£2,590
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MARY KATRANTZOU PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEX SAINSBURY
to each runway show, working with an expanded team of around 15 embroiderers each season to produce her collections. “The finish hand embroidery offers is something a machine cannot replicate,” says Katrantzou. “It allows you to weave a bespoke story – each piece is unique: I want to change perceptions of it,” she says, of her use of sparkle to reimagine everyday objects into paradisiacal prints. Previous collections have seen primordial sea creatures rendered in beadwork, and decoupage chrysanthemums crafted from Swarovski crystals. For Resort 2018, Katrantzou explored patchworking for the first time, mixing decadent embroideries with jacquards, garden-party botanicals with wallpaper patterns, and psychedelic stripes with sequins. A miniskirt is covered with kingfisher-blue feathers designed to resemble the plumes of a peacock, and botanic plants are printed across silken gowns. Not for wallflowers, these are clothes to be seen in. Naturally, the designer returned to Waddesdon with renowned photographer Ellen Von Unwerth to shoot the lookbook imagery for the collection where, against the backdrop of the statues and chandeliers, her collection was brought to life. A model wearing the peacock skirt posed barefoot on the manor’s north-facing fountain, because where else would one find a peacock than in the garden? Meanwhile, a silken two-piece pyjama suit in a wallpaper print was shot against the backdrop of decadent tapestry drapes. One can imagine these clothes being worn in the modern-day Waddesdon – perhaps at the dinner hosted by Lord Rothschild last June to celebrate the exhibition’s opening, where, among tables filled with flora and enormous gilt candelabras, guests including Chelsea Clinton and Yana Peel were plated up a chicken supreme. An aristocratic dinner party is a fitting natural habitat for these gowns. Katrantzou, who was one of the many breakout designers educated under the late Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson, will celebrate 10 years of her British label this year. The former textiles student, who moved to London in 2002 after meeting her partner (who was studying at CSM at the time) never had dreams of launching her own line. And yet, her debut London Fashion Week collection for Autumn/Winter 2008 was picked up by 15 of the world’s most prestigious stockists, including Brown’s, and, in 2012, she was the winner of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund. Her designs have been worn on the red carpet by Taylor Swift, Keira Knightley and Rihanna. Today, Katrantzou is stocked in more than 100 stockists in over 30 countries, including Harrods, Selfridges, Matches Fashion, Net-a-Porter, and Barneys New York. To celebrate the brand’s 10th birthday, her work is currently the subject of its first solo exhibition, titled ‘Mary, Queen of Prints’, at the Dallas Contemporary museum in Texas, until 18 March this year. It’s a pick-and-mix assortment of her greatest hits, co-curated by Katrantzou’s friend and co-founder of The Tot Nasiba Adilova. Not bad for a British brand that has yet to open its own standalone store. “Opening an exhibition is a huge honour and a privilege to have at my age,” she says. “It’s very moving to me that they thought my work was worthy of exhibiting. I don’t have 60 years of a huge archive to showcase…” A huge archive, no. But decadent gowns of couture-quality craftsmanship? Of those, Katrantzou has many, in glorious technicolour. A bird of paradise indeed. Resort 2018 collection available at marykatrantzou.com
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RITA SHIRT £750 PARAKEET SKIRT £1,890
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THIS PAGE: LANVIN Lace & crepe de chine dress, £4,695 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS White gold & white diamond earrings, POA MARIA TASH Single diamond earring, £237 Diamond eternity earring, £383 at Liberty FRONT COVER: VINTAGE BALENCIAGA Ostrich feather jacket, POA at William Vintage DIOR Knitted bra, £790 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS White gold & white diamond earrings, POA MARIA TASH Diamond eternity earring £383 at Liberty
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Model and actress Amber Anderson wears this seasonâ€™s most romantic looks Photography SANDRINE AND MICHAEL Fashion CHARLOTTE DAVEY
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DELPOZO Fil-coupe & tulle gown dress, £4,850 at Harrods VAN CLEEF & ARPELS White gold & diamond necklace, POA MARIA TASH Single diamond earring, £237 Diamond eternity earring £383 Diamond & single spike earring, £524 at Liberty BOODLES White & pink diamond ring, £10,000 DIOR JOAILLERIE White gold & white diamond ring, £9,800 White gold, diamond & mother-of-pearl ring, £2,500
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VIKTOR & ROLF Satin top, POA JENNY PACKHAM Tulle skirt, £1,820, at Harrods DAVID MORRIS Akoya pearl, mother of pearl & white diamond earrings, POA DE BEERS White gold & white diamond necklace, £33,700 SHAUN LEANE White gold & white diamond ring, £12,000
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LANVIN Lace & chiffon dress, £6,110, DIOR JOAILLERIE White gold & white diamonds hoop earrings, £15,100, MARIA TASH Stud earrings, from a selection at Liberty, WILLIAM & SON White gold & white sapphires ring, £4,460, DIOR JOAILLERIE White gold & white diamond ring, £9,800, White gold, diamond & mother-of-pearl ring, £2,500
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“Everyone’s multi-faceted in their careers now. I don’t feel like I’ve had to break through a wall" Words MEGHAN CONNER
mber Anderson is not what you would call a drinker, though she loves going to the pub. “It’s one of the things I like most about London,” says the actor/model. “I always meet someone new in The French House in Soho – you’re never short of an interesting character there. And then there’s my local, The Cow, in Ladbroke Grove…” She mulls over the concept. “I don’t really do alcohol,” she laughs, “but I do like standing at a bar.” When you consider what she does for a living, it makes perfect sense. Studying people is part of an actor’s job: a sort of subconscious preparation for roles. “I definitely think a massive part of what we do is being able to empathise with people,” she agrees. “But I also think your own life experiences feed in to every character.” At 25, Anderson’s backstory is more extraordinary than most. Born in Glastonbury, raised in Inverness, she moved to London at 17 to work as a model and within two years, was walking the catwalks for Burberry. By the time she was 19, she was also acting professionally. But it’s her childhood in Scotland that remains, by her own telling, her most unconventional experience. “We lived a sort of hippie existence in Glastonbury
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and moved to Scotland when I was six because my family basically believed that the millennium bug was going to happen,” she explains. “The idea was that we would live a self-sufficient, eco lifestyle to protect ourselves from Y2K, which obviously didn’t happen.” There were “more unusual things”, including attending a Steiner school, where she started to pursue music and acting. Then at 14, Anderson was persuaded to enter a modelling competition by a friend, and went on to be signed by an agent. These days she’s a Burberry stalwart, having starred in various campaigns, including a 2015 lineup of bright young actors and musicians (everyone from Holliday Grainger to Harry Treadaway) going out on the streets of London. It wasn’t the first time Anderson had been shot by Mario Testino, of course, but the fact she was selected to be in a who’s who of the next big artists is perhaps testament to her growing success in both professions. Today she downplays what it is to combine the two, saying, “I think everyone’s multifaceted now. I don’t feel like I’ve had to break through a wall.” And she doesn’t worry about being typecast: last summer she played a supermodel for the first time in the BBC drama, Strike: The Cuckoo’s Calling, an adaptation of JK Rowling’s
crime novel, and ironically, it’s the role for which she’s least recognised. “Maybe it’s because I’m a blonde in it,” says the brunette. “People haven’t really made the connection to me and my modelling at all.” Despite a growing body of work that includes ITV’s Maigret and the film The Riot Club, she says it’s usually the modelling jobs she’s most recognised for. These span everything from beauty campaigns for Kenzo and Chanel to walking for Dior Couture and JeanPaul Gaultier in Paris. Recently, she’s had to contend with being at the centre of headlines for reasons beyond her work. Last October, Anderson took to social media to share the story of the horrifying harassment she endured in a meeting with Harvey Weinstein in a hotel room back in 2013. “He behaved inappropriately and propositioned a personal’ relationship to further my career, whilst bragging about other actresses he had ‘helped’ in a similar way…” she wrote on Instagram. At one point he tried to put her hand in his lap, which is when she “managed to leave the room”. She feels proud to have spoken up. “It was so important to me on a personal level, in terms of my own principles,” she says. “Because for a long time I felt I couldn’t say anything. When someone is sitting in front of you threatening perhaps the end of your career, you take it very seriously.” For the imminent future, she’s taking a break. She recently wrapped In Darkness, a film thriller with Natalie Dormer, and last December travelled to India for a self-imposed “gap month.” In the past Anderson has dated musicians (Paolo Nutini, Rizzle Kicks’ Jordan Stephens) but she’s heading out on her own. The early months of the year is when her industry goes off grid, so she’s been making the most of it. When she returns, the schedule is crazy. As well as starting production on a new film (the project is top secret, but she’s playing the lead role and is currently researching mental health) Anderson is working London Fashion Week. As usual, she’ll be doing the catwalk, but there are also the parties every evening. As someone who doesn’t drink, how does she get through? “I’m the sort of person who runs on adrenaline,” she smiles. She realises how lame this sounds. “But it’s true! When I’m busy, I don’t get tired.”
DIOR Broderie Anglaise dress, £8,600 Knitted bra (worn underneath), £790 Knitted briefs (worn underneath), £640 DIOR JOAILLERIE White gold & white diamonds hoop earrings, £15,100 White gold & white diamond ring, £9,800 White gold, diamond & mother-of-pearl ring, £2,500
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PHOTOGRAPHY Sandrine and Michael FASHION Charlotte Davey MODEL Amber Anderson at Tess Management MAKE-UP ARTIST Yasmin Heinz using MAC Cosmetics HAIR STYLIST Ernesto Montenovo FASHION ASSISTANT Yasemin Celepi FRONT COVER RETOUCHING The Forge
STOCKISTS boodles.com davidmorris.com debeers.co.uk dior.com harrods.com lanvin.com libertylondon.com shaunleane.com vancleefarpels.com viktor-rolf.com williamandson.com williamvintage.com
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STYLE SAINT LAURENT Le Smoking velvet tuxedo jacket £1,965; farfetch.com
STAUD Vitti velvet bucket bag £370; matchesfashion.com
THE VAMPIRES WIFE Festival velvet dress £970; thevampireswife.com
GUCCI Velvet & pearl brooch £560; gucci.com
MAISON MICHEL Dorothea velvet hair scrunchie £96; modaoperandi.com
Velvet continues to play a starring role into the new season. Wear in bold tones for edgy opulence Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
GUCCI GG Marmont velvet bag £1,980; gucci.com
JOHANNA ORTIZ Lorca velvet top £960; modaoperandi.com SAINT LAURENT Loulou velvet boots £685; matchesfashion.com
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Sciacca velvet mules £435; harrods.com
PRADA Velvet sunglasses £413; mytheresa.com
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Stephen Webster Salon Second Floor, 130 Mount Street, London W1K 3NY 0203 298 0970
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STYLE GRAFF BabyGraff Triology bracelet watch £POA graffdiamonds.com
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Colombe Mystérieuse clip £POA vancleefarpels.com
THEO FENNEL Rubellite & diamond empress earrings £17,500 theofennel.com
HOUSE OF GARRARD Jewelled Vault ruby & diamond earrings £POA garrard.com
BEE GODDESS Mondrian diamond & ruby bracelet £5,970 harrods.com
JESSICA McCORMACK Heart ruby ring £28,000 jessicamccormack.com
L VE ON THE ROCKS
CARTIER Jaya ruby ring £POA cartier.com
A clutch of rubies and diamonds to dazzle your beloved Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
DELFINA DELETTREZ Marry Me Double Lips ruby ring £3,750 harrods.com
BENTLEY & SKINNER Ruby & diamond brooch £39,500 bentley-skinner.co.uk
AMRAPALI Ruby & diamond ring £3,900 amrapalijewels.com
DIOR JOAILLERIE Cocotte Rubis earrings £POA dior.com
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STEPHEN WEBSTER Dynamite Burmese ruby ring £100,000 stephenwebster.com
CLASSICS From best-loved timepieces to reimagined archive designs, here are the future heirlooms of the luxury watch world Words AVRIL GROOM
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The current return to more classic style sees the great watch houses concentrate on pure lines, materials and finish. When shapes and dials are simple, all these aspects come into focus. In particular, the latest women’s watch models illustrate perfectly the idea that classic design does not have to be dull. Some, such as the Rolex Lady Date Just or the Patek Philippe Calatrava, have evolved their distinctness over decades. Others, such as the Chanel Boy.Friend or the Jaeger Lecoultre Rendez Vous, are more recent, attaining classic status by the sheer force of their design. All remain icons despite updates – classics are both current and timeless.
Chanel BOY•FRIEND TWEED
An instant classic since its launch in 2015. Simple, masculine lines, inspired by watches worn by Coco Chanel’s English lover, Boy Capel, but with many Chanel codes – feminine curves on the pure dial, encased in a signature rectangle with cut-off corners, recalling the No5 perfume-bottle stopper. Three sizes, steel or gold, plain or with diamonds, strap or bracelet – the tweed stamping on the bracelet is a genius touch while the blackened steel version adds an edge. STEEL WITH DIAMOND BEZEL
173 New Bond Street, W1
Rolex OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST 28
A true classic with staying power, the Lady Datejust goes back to 1957, when it was spun off from the original men’s model. It has waxed and waned in size, and the new version is slightly smaller – at 28mm – in line with current trends. Its balance of feminine proportions, gentle palette and dial with masculine-influenced bracelet – smooth, supple and assertive – make it the perfect all-rounder, and it respects women’s demands with the 2236 automatic movement, its Syloxi hairspring specially designed for women’s models. STEEL
£4,650 29 Old Bond Street, W1
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Baume & Mercier
SPEEDMASTER CO-AXIAL CHRONOGRAPH 38
ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD
Inspired by a model from the 1970s heyday of small watches, the Promesse’s distinctive shape, with a gently oval bezel inside a round case, has quickly established it as a well-priced new classic dress watch. The unmistakable design lends itself to many variants – three sizes including the dainty, 22mm Petite Promesse with its bright double strap, quartz or automatic movements, bezels plain or with delicate graduated diamonds, a fine guilloché dial and even a night-dark moonphase version.
Created in the 1970s by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak was the classic that defined smart, sporty 1970s style, first for men, then later, for women. The new version is available in three sizes and already a classic in its own right – it was voted luxury Watch of the Year at the 2017 Eve’s Watch Awards for women’s timepieces. Designed with jewellery Carolina Bucci, who always wears a vintage Royal Oak, it uses a Florentine gold hammering technique to create a soft, feminine sparkle that is irresistible.
Launched in 1932, the Calatrava is one of the great planks of Patek Philippe design, the essence of a pure, round, elegantly slim watch. As such it can be endlessly redesigned and subtly embellished and it has proved fertile ground for women’s models. The newest goes effortlessly from day to night in the beauty of its handguillochéd dial lacquer in translucent caerulean blue, its delicately painted arrowhead indexes and its slender case concealing a hand-wound mechanical movement. WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
13 New Bond Street, W1 patek.com
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The Speedmaster is a great Omega classic that originated in the late 1940s and has had many forms, mainly as diving watches and best known as the horological choice of actionhero James Bond. The latest version takes it in a new direction, as a chronograph – at 38mm it could be unisex but the details are unequivocally feminine. Soft oval subdials and a vertical oval date window, subtle diamond bezels, classic colours and an elegant bracelet make a gentle yet sporty statement.
STEEL AND DIAMONDS
STEEL, ROSE GOLD AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL
260 Regent Street, W1 omegawatches.com
At Watches of Switzerland, 155 Regent Street, W1 watches-of-switzerland.co.uk
£43,300 At Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1 harrods.com
Bell & Ross
HAPPY SPORT 36MM
PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER
RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY
BR S DIAMOND EAGLE
This is the ultimate classic with a twist, first introduced 20 years ago as a novelty – a functioning diving watch with free-floating diamonds. Its many iterations since have included bright colour and floating fish, but this sophisticated version, with an automatic movement, introduced to celebrate the anniversary, has longevity and class. In steel with a feminine bracelet, it has a finely guillochéd dial centre that offsets the “dancing diamonds” around it. Still a highly original design.
This year’s re-introduction of a 1970s success has created a new classic for Cartier. Derived from the men’s Santos with its riveted bezel and softly squared shape, it was a highlight of an era when the small gold watch for women reigned supreme. Now it’s back and the updated version with its ultra-flexible bracelet and signature Roman numerals is already a hit. In two sizes, with or without diamonds, in steel or gold or bi-colour, with jewellery variants to come.
Best known for the unique design of the Art Deco Reverso, Jaeger-Lecoultre have a distinctive classic for women in the RendezVous with its subtle and beautiful details. Inspired by a 1930s piece in the brand’s museum, it has clear Art Deco figures, a guillochéd dial, a charming sun and moon indicator and a feminine bracelet of delicate links. Many iterations exist – with strap, in steel, without diamonds, plus complications and jewellery models, all automatics.
In 10 years Bell & Ross’s bold, square case/round dial, aviation-inspired “instrument” has become an icon of stylish sports watches, mainly for men. The introduction of a smaller, 39mm model has allowed women’s styles to take wing, giving sleeker, dressier alternatives to the more rugged sports styles. Most poetic is this diamond outline of the Eagle constellation on a midnight blue sky. Also with diamond bezel.
STEEL AND DIAMONDS
ROSE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
BRUSHED STEEL AND DIAMONDS, QUARTZ MOVEMENT
15 Clifford Street, W1 chopard.com
175-177 New Bond Street, W1 cartier.co.uk
13 Old Bond Street, W1 jaeger-lecoultre.com
48-49 Burlington Arcade, W1 bellross.com
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Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.
Lip service Thanks to the clever folks at Marc Jacobs Beauty, we need never choose between a traditional lipstick or liquid again thanks to its innovative Le Marc Liquid Lip Crayon. Modelled by new face of the brand, Brit supermodel and activist Adwoa Aboah, the solid crayon effortlessly melts into lips and offers instant colour that lasts for up to 16 hours. Choose from nine shades, including How Rouge!, pictured. Le Marc Liquid Lip Crayon, ÂŁ22 harrods.com
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Beauty Notes Micro-needling, bejewelled hair accessories and the ultimate skin saviours Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
Creative director Lucia Pica has painted a vivid portrait of her hometown Naples for Chanel’s spring-summer 2018 make-up collection. Neapolis: New City borrows from the locales vibrant natural pallette. From left; Ombre Premiere cream eye shadow (£24) , Rouge Allure Ink liquid lip colour (£28), Les Vernis nail varnish (£20), Les 9 Ombres eye shadow palette (£67).
Facial needling is the ‘better than botox’ buzz trend that promises younger looking skin. e GloPro athome roller tool uses hundreds of miniature needles (0.3mm - you won’t feel them) to create tiny punctures which trigger your healing response, prompting the production of new skin cells and collagen. Excellent on its own, it’ll also increase the absorption and (therefore efficiency) of your serums and creams. Genius. GloPro Micro-needling Regeneration Tool, £199
GET GLOSSY Step into spring with Bobbi Brown’s new Extra Glow Collection. The limited-edition range is ‘light reflecting and treatment infused’, mixing skincare and make-up for pepped-up, fresh-looking skin and instant radiance. The hero products are the Extra Illuminating Moisture Balm (£44.50) and the Skincare Palette (£34) which are both super-hydrating and deliver a dewy, luminous finish.
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Candle fans rejoice; Diptyque has just released Rose Delight, it’s annual limited-edition for Valentines Day scent. Inspired by Turkish Delight, it’s a powdery, sweet fragrance with a slightly citrusy tang. Bookmark this intoxicating rose scent for a night of romance or ideal gift for Mothers Day before it sells out. Rose Delight candle 190g, £48; Available at Selfridges & Liberty London
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Skin Saviours The ultimate remedies for winter-worn skin
e spring/summer catwalks were awash with models wearing decorative hair jewels, ladylike ribbon bows and crystal crowns. Best seen at Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Simone Rocha (pictured) who took the schoolgirl accessory and made it work for grown-ups. Pearl barrettes, embellished head bands and tiaras give a modern update this season. Faux pearl hair clip £75; Simone Rocha at brownsfashion.com
The Next Level Tom Ford’s first standalone beauty store has opened in Covent Garden and we are made-up. Featuring six specialised rooms for make-up, fragrance and skincare, the super-chic marble interior and state-of-the-art technology will satisfy even the most Instagram-savvy of beauty geeks. When you book in for a personalised make-up master class, for instance, the mirror can be set to record your own custom make-up “how-to” video. Or, use the augmented reality technology to try on lipstick shades virtually and discover the personal scent laboratory that offers ‘dramming’ services where you can trial a scent after an in-depth consultation has revealed your olfactory preferences. All your #beauty dreams come true. Book an appointment at tomfordbeauty.co.uk 3, The Market Building, Covent Garden, WC2
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LA MER The Lifting and Firming Mask £170; selfridges.com. CAUDALIE Premier Cru The Serum £90; spacenk.com. LA PRAIRIE Platinum Night Elixir £894; exclusive to Harrods. ESTÉE LAUDER Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment £62; exclusive to Harrods. CHANEL Sublimage La Crème £255; chanel.com. EMMA HARDIE Moringa Cleansing Balm £65; emmahardie.com. SUNDAY RILEY Juno Hydroactive Cellular Face Oil £70; spacenk.com.
BYREDO Mister Marvellous 250ml, £185; byredo.co.uk
CREED Aventus 100ml, £230; creedfragrances.co.uk
D.S & DURGA Burning Barbershop 50ml, £139; libertylondon.com
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE Dries Van Noten 100ml, £185; libertylondon.com
30; D , £2 FOR00ml M TO her 1 com eat ds. n L arro a c h Tus
THE FINEST CHOICE OF COLOGNES FOR THE MAN IN YOUR LIFE
Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT AQUA DI PARMA Colonia Sandalo 100ml, £178; harrods.com
M yrr h & JO jom Ton MAL alo ka 1 ONE ne 00m .co l, .uk £11 5;
AMOUAGE Jubilation XXV Man 100ml, £215; selfridges.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
HELMUT LANG Eau de Parfum 100ml, £130; libertylondon.com
CHANEL 1932 15ml, £158; chanel.com
VILHELM PARFUMERIE Dear Polly 100ml, £155; libertylondon.com
BELLA FREUD Psychoanalysis 100ml, £165; bellafreud.com
GET YOUR FRAGRANCE FIX WITH OUR PICK OF THE MOST SEDUCTIVE PERFUMES
THE PERFUMER’S STORY BY AZZI C 150ml, £225; theperfumersstory.com
ANNICK GOUTAL Nuit et Confidences 100ml, £117; harrods.com
AERIN Rose de Grasse d’Or 100ml, £750: Exclusive to Harrods
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We invite you to discover The Wellness Clinic at Harrods. With 14 treatment rooms in an elegant 10,500sq ft space, it offers an integrated approach to wellbeing and beauty, hosting world-renowned experts in aesthetics, wellness and dermatology. Treatments include: face and body aesthetics from PHI Clinic, led by Dr Tapan Patel; a full-body cryotherapy chamber with 111Cryo, led by Dr Yannis Alexandrides; nutritional and fitness advice from Louise Parker; mindfulness practices with Terrence the Teacher; VitaDrips from The Elixir Clinic; and bespoke skincare solutions from Gen Identity â€“ each designed with you in mind. For more information or to book an appointment at The Wellness Clinic, call +44 (0)20 7225 5678, email email@example.com or visit us in-store on the Fourth Floor.
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Love is the gi Let Creed’s experts help you choose a signature scent to give to your loved one on Valentine’s day
s you walk through the door of the Creed boutique you enter a sleek, serene haven and the perfect destination to buy a gift for a partner –or perhaps to treat yourself. Located on the prestigious Mount Street in Mayfair alongside Céline, Balenciaga and Christian Louboutin, the sophisticated apothecary is synonymous with high-quality fragrances. The impressive rows of 40 scents offers the ultimate sensorial experience for fragrance aficionados. A friendly team of in-house experts invite you to explore the range and to discover the incredible heritage behind the brand. Established in 1760 as a tailors by James Henry Creed, he and his son were also perfumers. The company rose to fame when a pair of scented leather gloves was delivered to King George III. Later, the company gained a royal warrant. Today, Olivier Creed, a direct descendant of James Henry Creed, continues this great tradition. Accompanied by his son Erwin, Olivier travels extensively to source, research, inspect and commission the finest ingredients for the house fragrances. Over the centuries, and seven generations, the
EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE IN STORE
scent has top notes of apple, blackcurrant and Italian bergamot blended with a rich base of oak moss, ambergris and a hint of vanilla. Alternatively if you are choosing a feminine scent, the fresh, floral perfume of Love In White is modern and understated. The clean fragrance has subtle hints of hyacinth and magnolia while the heart of the scent is composed of French daffodils, white iris and tonka bean. Designed by the architect Can Onaner, the boutique has striking interiors inspired by the avant-garde designs of Adolf Loos. Downstairs, is a private space for guests. Here, you can relax in comfort with a glass of champagne and take your time to uncover the perfect scent with an expert. The boutique also offers an exclusive hand-wrapping service using Creed’s signature gift paper and a selection of coloured ribbons to add impact to a unique and thoughtful gift that is bound to show a partner how much you adore them. Creed family has produced many signature perfumes including Aventus, Creed’s most popular scent for men. Contained in an enticing bottle that would look attractive on any dresser, the
Call 020 7495 1795 to book a consultation creedfragrances.co.uk
BESPOKE ENGRAVING SERVICE For the ultimate gift inspiration book an appointment with one of the experts in store to take your time to introduce you to the range of scents, candles and bath and body care. Once you have carefully chosen your gift, you can add an intimate message, a shared date or initials to be engraved onto the bottle to make it truly personal. This complimentary service is only available at the Mayfair boutique and will make your St Valentine’s gift extra-special.
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Creed Boutique 99 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm
MIND, BODY, SOUL
Jasmine Hemsley, one half of the wellness brand Hemsley + Hemsley, has gone solo for her new cookbook, which aims to explain the art of mind-body balance using Ayurvedic principles Words ALEXANDRA JONES
asmine Hemsley, 37, is the raven-haired ex-model turned wellness guru who has a knack for making a trend. As one half of the duo Hemsley + Hemsley, along with her younger sister Melissa, she became a pioneer of the wellness movement, advocating whole, natural and plant-based food before any of us really knew what those things meant. And it worked. As well as two bestselling cookbooks (2014’s The Art of Eating Well, and last year’s Good + Simple), she has co-hosted Channel 4’s Eating Well with Hemsley + Hemsley and opened a Hemsley + Hemsley café in Selfridges. She lives in north London, in an openplan flat that was originally a work space. “It’s full of plants and eclectic furniture,” she tells me when we chat over lunch. “I studied furniture and contemporary design, so I love mixing contemporary pieces with classics and clashing patterns.” She finds nicknacks at car-boot sales – where she whiles away any spare Sunday mornings. “There’s also lots of dog toys, or things that have become dog toys
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lying around,” she says, in reference to her three four-legged friends, Julie, Arunja and Beamer. “They get me out of the house into whatever nature you can find in London.” This year she’s striking out alone for the first time, taking on a new frontier in wellness. “I’m passionate about wellness, whereas Melissa is more of a foodie. It’s been tough, for sure, but I’m excited.” How would you describe your philosophy? Balance is the first word I’d use. Finding a way to nourish every part of you. And in terms of food, for me it’s all about comfort. I feel like food has the power to nourish you on so many levels – mentally, emotionally and physically – as long as you’re eating something you love. For me, that’s a warming bowl of something freshly cooked, like a soup or a stew. Your new book focuses on exactly that – balance – using Ayurvedic principles. Where did that passion come from? I first came across Ayurveda during yoga classes around 2001, then again in 2005 when I was researching philosophies on
wellness during a time of ‘low-fat, lowcalorie diets’ and I started incorporating the principles that made sense to me into my life. Learning vedic meditation in 2010 really propelled me to learn more about Ayurvedic principles, which have informed much of my wellness journey. The timeless laws of nature make Ayurveda as relevant today as it was 5,000 years ago, and perhaps even more relevant as modern inventions, societal pressure and unnatural habitats send our innate link to the intelligence of our universe out of whack. Why do you think this mind-body-soul attitude to food and wellness is so relevant and important now? I think we’ve come to realise that we can’t just look after one part of ourselves and expect to feel amazing. We’re always looking for a quick fix, but we forget how connected everything is.
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
If you neglect your mind, if you’re anxious and stressed all the time and don’t do anything to address that, it doesn’t matter how well you treat your body – it’ll have an impact. Technology is great, but when you’re so disconnected from the natural world, it’s difficult to feel whole and centred. Millions of people feel like something is wrong, even though on the surface they have perfectly nice lives. I think it’s partly to do with modern society having started to view the human body in a robotic way. But that’s not nurturing our soul, spirit, creativity – whatever you want to call it – that makes each of us unique. How has it helped you personally? Well, I live in London, it’s very fast paced, I run my own business, there’s lots of stimuli. If I don’t take care of myself – if I don’t think about clearing my mind, trying to be present in my body – I end up being reactive and wired. It’s not just making sure there are calories in my body and that I’m getting enough sleep. We forget how stimulated we are, compared to people who lived thousands of years ago. Now we have a million job titles and hobbies, we interact with hundreds of people every day – even if it’s just via Instagram. We’re constantly planning the future and thinking about the past. Certainly for me, meditation – 20 minutes a day of clearing my mind – helps keeps me calm. Which in turn helps me to make better decisions.
Tell us more about the type of meditation you practice… Vedic meditation, which is the oldest technique. It uses a personalised mantra to enable you to meditate whenever and wherever you like. It’s similar to transcendental meditation, but feels more personal. I’ve been advancing my practise with Will Williams who’s based in Soho. He’s a friend and teacher who nudged me to spread the message of Ayurveda. You also use sound baths? Sound therapy has been a natural extension of my interests in health and wellbeing. The tones produced by crystal singing bowls are heard by the ear and felt in the body, with certain tones affecting your energy centres (chakras)
Why do you think people are resistant to talking about the spiritual side of wellness? It’s another language, another culture. It’s difficult to get your head around it initially. I think we’re now tuning into more subtleties. We talk about energy more. We’re also realising that there’s no magic pill. We can have vitamin injections and drink the ultimate protein shake, but at the end of the day, if we’re working against the natural rhythms of our bodies, we’re going to burn out at some point. East by West: Simple recipes For Ultimate Mind-Body Balance by Jasmine Hemsley, £25, Bluebird, is out now.
GLOSSARY BEST BEAUTY An organic and natural skincare shop and salon, Content Beauty stocks the latest natural products and innovations. I never leave the shop empty-handed and can vouch that the staff are some of the most knowledgeable around. 14 Bulstrode Street, Marylebone, W1; contentbeautywellbeing.com FAVOURITE LOCALE This is a bit of a cheat but I love Albemarle Street. There’s Brown’s, the oldest hotel in London, which is also the home of new Italian pop-up Ora. It serves delicious dishes (the chef is from Rome and has three Michelin stars) using fantastic produce. When I’m done, I always stop by Raw Press; they do the best organic juices and banana bread. Mayfair, W1; rawpress.co
What simple ways could people incorporate more balance into their daily lives? First start making wholesome slow-cooked food, which is great for everyone’s digestion, as often as possible - after all you are what you can digest. Add a sprinkle of herbs and spices regularly in your dishes to take advantage of nature’s medicine cabinet, and sip herbal teas throughout the day. Try making lunchtime rather than evening your main meal of the day and enjoying dinner as early as possible for a better night’s sleep. Finally, drink hot water or warm rather than chilled. I carry a thermos of hot water to remind me to drink and stay hydrated, especially during this time of year.
HOTTEST SPA Como Shambhala Spa at the Metropolitan, right on Park Lane which feels so London. It’s the perfect escape; you feel the city melt away as you enter. They have an evolving list of visiting practitioners so you can discover new, and often ancient, healing practices from energy work to a good old-fashioned massage. 19 Old Park Lane, Mayfair, W1; comohotels.com/metropolitanlondon/wellness MY HIDDEN GEM Peardrop is a zero-plastic café and the brainchild of the brilliant Rose, the woman behind London’s first health and wellness festival, Fare Healthy. It’s just opened on Floral Street within a gallery space and it serves fabulous home-brewed chai with every choice of milk from homemade cashew to full-fat dairy. 13 Floral Street, Covent Garden, WC2; coventgarden.london/cafes/peardrop GOOD FOR GUT HEALTH Kultured is a brilliant space in the heart of London near theatre-land. Making their own ferments, tonics and syrups, and serving old-fashioned dishes from tangy kimchi to bone broth, it’s an exciting place to try the whole fermented food trend if you haven’t already. 21 Great Windmill St, Soho, W1
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for balancing and meditation. I started studying it a few years ago, then decided to set up my own pop-up workshops called Sound Sebastien at the Devonshire Club in London with my friend Toni Dicks. Together we create soothing sound baths to relax, uplift and inspire.
HAVE YOU GOT WHATEVER IT TAKES? WIT One New Change opens January 2018 Achieving your new year’s goal of getting fit and healthy has just got easier. Join us at WIT One New Change, Europe’s first training specialty retailer and concept gym space. Get expert advice from our staff upstairs, grab your kit, and head downstairs to meet with our coaches who will put you through functional fitness based classes. It’s the ultimate lifestyle fitness hub to shop & train.
FIND US A 3 MINUTE WALK FROM ST PAUL’S STATION IN THE HEART OF ONE NEW CHANGE, LONDON 1 NEW CHANGE, LONDON EC4M 9AF
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
On-demand personal training training, boxing with an Olympian and feel-good dance classes SUPERFOOD ALERT
Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
Packed with antioxidants, vitamin C, protein and all nine amino acids, moringa is a nutrient-dense powerhouse set to be the next big superfood. It comes in the form of a silky green powder (a little like matcha) perfect for adding to drinks and smoothies. Evangelists claim it helps to balance blood sugar, boosts metabolism and alleviates chronic inflammation. Aduna Moringa Green Superleaf Powder, £12.99 at all good health shops aduna.com
IN THE FRAME
Dance and fitness studio Frame has just opened two new outposts in Fitzrovia and Hammersmith. Spanning barre, boxing, yoga, Reformer Pilates, strength training and most famously ‘fusion’ cardio dance classes such as 80’s Aerobics, Frame Rave and Music Video. Expect to work hard in fast-paced and adrenaline-fuelled classes that give real results. moveyourframe.com
The Wellness Clinic Boxing has had a premium makeover thanks to BXR, a members-only boutique gym in Marylebone. Backed by heavyweight Olympian Anthony Joshua, the 12,000 sq ft state-ofthe-art training space features a full-size ring and a team of exchampion boxers, sports therapists and osteopaths, all ready to fight your corner. February sees a popup at Selfridges in the Ultra Lounge area with a fully functioning gym where customers can book in for group classes, workshops and private 1-2-1 sessions. bxrlondon.com selfridges.com
LOOK GOOD FEEL GREAT The Wellness Clinic at Harrods offers a serene space to help transform mind, body and spirit. Expect to find world-renowned experts offering dermatology, aesthetics, acupuncture, reiki and vitamin infusions. The clinic also features a full-body cryotherapy chamber from 111Cryo guaranteed to zap fat cells into oblivion. With treatments and plans tailored to the individual, consider this your one-stop-destination for all your wellbeing needs. harrods.com/thewellnessclinic
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CUSTOM WORKOUT Ever wished a PT could come to you, whenever and wherever you wanted? On-Demand personal training app TruBe does just that, by allowing you to order a fullyqualified trainer to meet at your house or in the park with as little as 60 minutes notice. Your session is completely customisable from the style of workout to the intensity level. So really, there are no excuses. trubeapp.com
CREATEVICTORIA.COM #novafood @createvictoria
Discover Londonâ€™s most exciting new culinary destination, with 17 innovative restaurants and outdoor seating in a stunning public realm.
FOOD & The
New Dali Forget categorising wine by geography or variety – Salvador Dalí’s The Wines of Gala takes a typically surrealist approach, organising them by emotional experience instead: ‘frivolity’, ‘sensuality’ and ‘joy’. This free-flowing manifesto reads like a dream sequence thanks, in part, to its 140 illustrations. It’s not a case of style over substance though, but a fresh (if somewhat flamboyant) approach which feels as relevant today as when it was first published in 1977. Dali: The Wines of Gala, £49.99, Taschen is out now
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Tasting Notes The latest openings and the places to know across the capital Compiled by RACHEL WALKER
Dine at the altar
With Chinese New Year on the horizon, now is the time to up your dim sum game, and there’s nowhere better than the just-launched Duddell’s in London Bridge. Occupying the converted St Thomas’ church, this is the first UK opening for the Hong Kong restaurant, which boasts two-Michelin stars and a cult following. No surprise, with exquisite dishes like truffle chargrilled black cod with Chinese aged vinegar, lily bulb and nameko mushroom. 9a St Thomas Street, SE1 duddells.co
LA DOLCE VITA
The new brunch menu at Villa Mama’s is an ideal excuse to while away a weekend morning. Home-style Bahraini dishes from chef, Roaya Saleh include steaming masala chai, followed by date crêpes and sharing mezzeh – seasonal jams, labneh, halloumi. Bound to transport you from chilly Chelsea to warmer climes. villamamas.com
Snow is falling
BLOOMSBURY SETTING There’s a sense of whimsy surrounding Dalloway Terrace, which is set in the heart of historic Bloomsbury. It’s only heightened this time of year by the frosted foliage canopy, ferns and pine cones which decorate their outdoor hideaway. It’s a heated spot, with sheepskin rugs and hot-water bottles to ensure a cosy evening – making it ideal for embracing a winter’s evening with a Swiss cheese fondue and a nip of whisky. 16-22 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, London WC1 dallowayterrace.com
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Richard Caring is bringing a slice of La Dolce Vita to Knightsbridge, with a newly opened restaurant inspired by Harry’s Bar in Venice. The Ivy owner is channelling the glamour of 1950s Italy with Fortuny fabrics and colourful murano glass – making it the perfect post-Harrods pit stop, for strong coffee, a restorative slice of tiramisu and perhaps a little something from the grappa trolley. 27-31 Basil Street, Knightsbridge, SW3 harrysdolcevita.com
Hiring a private chef has never been easier, thanks to La Belle Assiette. The website has a range of options from casual dinner-party dining to Michelinstarred menus. Simply book a chef online and they will arrive armed with ingredients, prepare dinner in your kitchen, plate up and wash up afterwards. labelleassiette.co.uk
Maverick mixologist, Tony Conigliaro, has created a new concoction called Snow, which evokes the sensation of fresh snowflakes on your tongue. It’s made using enoki vodka, white clay and chalk, and is on the menu at his East London bar, Untitled – a must-visit for cocktail connoisseurs. untitled-bar.com
FOOD & DRINK
Top of the pops Champagnes for every occasion 1. FOR THE TRADITIONALIST
Pol Roger Brut, Vintage 2008 (12.5%),Tanner’s Wines, £66 Churchill’s favourite – a refined choice with orchard fruit aromas, and one of the all time best vintages.
2. FOR FANS OF ROSÉ
Champagne Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvée Rosé MV (12%), Selfridges, £56.99 Copper-pink, with bright strawberry notes – artfully blended from 25 different vintages.
3. FOR BRUNCH
Bernard Lonclas Cuvée Prestige, NV (12.5%), Humble Grape, £33 The buttery warm notes make this dangerously drinkable number a great way to kick-off a decadent weekend.
4. FOR LUNCH
Roganic is making a permanent return to Marylebone’s Blanford Street, after the cult pop-up closed five years ago. “We really enjoyed being there first time,” says Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, “it feels so right to be back.” The original short-lease site was the chef’s first foray into the capital – since then he has launched Fera at Claridge’s, L’Enclume, as well as just-opened Aulis, a development kitchen and eight-seater chef’s table (£250 per person). The return of Roganic on 9 January promises innovative dishes using top ingredients from Rogan’s Cartmel Valley farm. Bookings are open, and, it’s worth getting a reservation while you can for the Set Lunch (£40) or Tasting Menu (£80/£115).
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Fortnum’s Blanc de Blancs Champagne Magnum (12%), Fortnum & Mason, £75 An elegant Champagne, ideal for aperitifs – with the magnum measure ensuring that it will make it round the room.
5. FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT
Chartogne-Taillet Sainte Anne Champagne (12%), The Whisky Exchange, £34.15 Little-known grower Champagne which is fast making a name for itself thanks to vibrancy and crispness – made using organic and biodynamic practices.
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FOOD & DRINK
BREAKING BREAD The worldâ€™s highest-rated chef Massimo Bottura has launched a scheme in London that not only tackles food waste, but also feeds people. He explains how, and why Words RACHEL WALKER
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assatelli noodles is probably the most delicious dish ever, I think,” says Massimo Bottura. It’s an odd thing to get misty-eyed over – breadcrumb-based dough that’s cooked in chicken broth. After all, Bottura is known for far loftier dishes at his Modena based restaurant called Osteria Francescana. It’s certainly not peasant noodles that won him three Michelin stars or the top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list in 2016. Today though, Bottura is excited about overripe bananas and Parmesan rind thanks to his latest project: Bread Is Gold. It’s a collaborative cookbook by ‘Massimo Bottura & Friends’, which showcases 160 recipes inspired by leftovers. It is the product of an ongoing project run by Bottura’s charity, Food for Soul, which sets up ‘refettorios’, or community kitchens, around the world. The first, launched in Milan in 2015, then a British outpost, Refettorio Felix at St Cuthbert’s, opened in summer 2017, near Earl’s Court. The idea behind the project is simple: tackle food waste, tackle hunger. Food donations arrive at the refettorios each morning, then volunteer chefs turn up to transform ingredients into lunches for vulnerable members of the local community. Only in true Bottura style, his ringround of chefs recruited a remarkable roster of Michelin-starred pals from René Redzepi to Ferran Adrià – so it’s less soupy leftovers, and more chickpea ragu with corn crisps. When we meet, Bottura is fresh from a masterclass at Google HQ where he rustled up pasta with pesto made from stale bread: “much cheaper than using pine nuts”. He looks every bit the rock star chef, decked out in fur-lined Gucci Ace trainers, yet he’s part of an elite group who are forging out a more conscientious role for the ‘celebrity chef ’ – it’s less about egos, and more about activism. Bottura is determined to use his influence to impact change. He is credited with saving the livelihood of local Parmigiano-Reggiano producers back in 2012, when two earthquakes hit the Emilia-Romagna region, devastating the warehouses where the cheese is stored. Bottura’s
wind of the plan and offered its support, a site was found, and on 28 May 2015 the doors opened at an abandoned 1930s theatre, with a six-month cheffing rota. Not only is the original site still serving guests, but Bottura has rolled-out branches in Bologna, Rio de Janeiro, London and his hometown Modena, with a Paris launch set for March this year. “London has been one of the easiest projects we did,” says Bottura, crediting the whole team – from their partnership with The Felix Project who source leftovers from round the capital, to designer Ilse Crawford who transformed the site. “It was a dark, creepy place,” Bottura remembers, “If you walk in now, you see how light streams in from high windows. We almost didn’t need any art because the structure is so beautiful.” “People got the message straight away,” Bottura says, his eyes lighting up as he tells the story of a 92-year-old woman who asked for the microphone during the first lunch sitting. She stood up and addressed the whole room: “She said it was the most beautiful place she’d seen, she thanked us for creating a place for her, for the community, and she said she could die happy – that was just day one. It was unbelievable.” Six months on, the list of guest chefs reads like a who’s who of the capital’s restaurant scene. Alain Ducasse from The Dorchester has put in a shift, as well as Angela Hartnett, Jason Atherton, Nuno Mendes, Margot Henderson, Giorgio Locatelli and Michel Roux Jr. “Chefs keep sending in staff from their kitchen to practise at the refettorio on their days off,” says Bottura. “It’s an incredible opportunity for young chefs to be learning from the best, and it’s in the spirit of being together.” The trestle tables and crates of ugly vegetables must seem like a long way from high-tech kitchens and pristine ingredients most of them are used to though. I wonder if there’s something incongruous about these giants of fine dining fronting the anti foodwaste movement, when theirs are some of the most lavish kitchens in the world? Bottura explains that Michelin dining doesn’t need to be wasteful: “We serve 30 people for lunch, then 30 for dinner each day at Osteria Francescana, but we also have to do 120 staff meals – it forces us to
“It’s an incredible opportunity for chefs to learn from the best”
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response to the disaster was to develop a dish that used Parmesan as its main ingredient: ‘risotto cacio e pepe’. He set a date for chefs worldwide to put it on their menus, and all 366,000 damaged wheels of cheese were sold. It’s the same matter-of-fact approach to problem solving that brought about Bottura’s first refettorio. The idea was born round the time of Expo 2015 in Milan. When a food theme was announced (‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life’) Bottura got barrage of requests to cook in the pavilions. “At first, I was flattered, and then I was unsettled,” he remembers. “I realised that no one was asking us chefs for our opinions or our ideas.” Bottura began to think big. He started to dream about a pavilion where some of the world’s best chefs would cook with food waste, making dishes for people in need. Milan’s biggest Catholic organisation caught
FOOD & DRINK
act in such an amazing, creative way not to waste anything,” he says. “We might just need a small part – the best part – for the diners. But the rest? We feed our staff,” Bottura says, explaining how the ethnic diversity among the chefs who flock to the Modena means that staff meals often have a Mexican or Japanese twist, depending on the team in charge.
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This diversity runs through Bread Is Gold. In one chapter Japanese chef Yoshihiro Narisawa uses breadcrumbs, minced beef and mushrooms to make teriyaki hamburgers, while Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio uses leftover milk to make a Tres Leches sponge cake with dulce de leche ice cream. The meals might be extraordinary, but they all start with ordinary ingredients. This style appeals to Bottura, whose complex dishes are often inspired by humble flavours steeped in memories. The book’s title Bread Is Gold, is a nod to one of the restaurant’s dishes, which pays homage to childhood breakfasts, dipping leftover bread into sweetened milk. Of course, the restaurant has an incarnation involving caramelised bread crunch, salted bread ice cream and gold tinted sugar – but homely influences are often the starting point for dishes. “Everything happened round the table in our family,” Bottura says, listing off the four siblings, his parents, two grandmothers, aunt and uncle who he grew up with. “The table is where we discussed the future, we solved problems, we fought, we made up.” It’s this act of sitting down together for a meal that drives Bottura. It’s about companionship: “Breaking bread together is the first step toward rebuilding dignity and creating community.”
Bread Is Gold, by Massimo Bottura & Friends, £29.95, Phaidon, is out now
GLOSSARY FAVOURITE HOTEL I usually stay in The Connaught. It’s a small place where I feel comfortable – it’s cosy, warm and lots of Italians stay there. Carlos Place,Mayfair, W1 the-connaught.co.uk PLACE TO PARTY After The World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards, a group of us went back to The Clove Club and made gin and tonic carbonara. It was good: spaghetti finished with gin in the pan, a little lemon zest, egg yolk, bacon and Parmigiano. 380 Old Street, Shoreditch, EC1 thecloveclub.com GO-TO RESTAURANTS I look for places that give me a sense of home. So I visit my friend’s places. I might eat at Fergus’ [Fergus Henderson; St John, stjohnrestaurant.com] or at Ashley’s [Ashley Palmer Watts; Dinner by Heston, dinnerbyheston.com] or at Brett’s [Brett Graham; The Ledbury, theledbury.com] – they don’t treat me like a chef, but a friend – and I feel it. BEST PLACE TO BUY FOOD I am usually on a tight schedule with no time to shop, but the food hall at Harvey Nichols is a fun place to explore. 109 - 125 Knightsbridge, SW1 FAVOURITE GALLERY I’m passionate about contemporary art and a collector. I enjoy the White Cube in Bermondsey, and recently I did a pop-up with Sotheby’s against the backdrop of Lucio Fontana’s work. 144-152 Bermondsey Street, Bermondsey, SE1 whitecube.com
Restaurant R E V I E W S
CAPITAL DELIGHTS Six must-try standouts of London’s dining scene that continue to impress year after year
45 Jermyn St
45 Jermyn Street, St James’s, SW1 45jermynst.com
earls were clutched when Fortnum & Mason took the brave, bold decision to replace its 60-year-old Fountain restaurant – a St James’s institution – with 45 Jermyn St. Two years on, the handsome young upstart with its colour-popping red leather booths, smooth marble bar and bespoke caviar trolley, has won the traditionalists over. Not many people can resist a trolley, and certainly not one laden with caviar (Iranian beluga, golden oscietra and Siberian sturgeon) and all the traditional accompaniments: cute little baked spuds, gently scrambled eggs prepared tableside and, of course, blinis.
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A dainty helping leaves space for an exploration of a surprisingly international menu where concessions to fashion, for example, raw mackerel and caviar tacos meet gentlemen’s club mainstays (Welsh rarebit, Dover sole etc). But they can’t compete with the sheer spectacle and old-fashioned fun of lobster spaghetti for two – rope in a pal to join you – cooked and flambéed tableside. 45 Jermyn St. is not a place to forgo ‘afters’: seasonal coupes, knickerbocker glories, boozy ice cream floats (try the one with brown butter syrup, bourbon and cornflake ice cream), British cheeses and a stellar selection of single malts vie for attention.
26-29 Dean Street, Soho, W1 quovadissoho.co.uk
mall in size but grand in stature, Jeremy Lee’s charming Soho dining room is an institution. The Scottish chef’s impeccable taste makes its presence felt throughout, from the quirky John Broadley illustrations that line the walls to the artistically arranged blooms and the monthly changing British menu seemingly designed to satisfy the cravings of an eccentric and particularly hungry aristo (think roast mutton, kedgeree, oysters and Lee’s signature smoked eel sandwich). Menus respond nimbly to the seasons: this new year brings puntarelle and fennel salad with bergamot and mackerel with beetroot, rhubarb and blood orange. Lee is perhaps most famous for his puddings – ‘proper’ no messing desserts such as marmalade suet pudding or soft hazelnut cake with caramelised pears that he’s not too fancy to finish off with a trio of custard, cream and ice-cream.
FOOD & DRINK
Bob Bob Ricard 1 Upper James Street, Soho, W11 bobbobricard.com
The Colony Grill Room The Beaumont, 8 Balderton Street, Brown Hart Gardens, Mayfair, W1 colonygrillroom.com
Ritz The Ritz London, 150 Piccadilly, W1 theritzlondon.com
hen the Michelin inspectors awarded the Ritz Restaurant its long overdue first star in the 2017 Guide, they caught up at last with what the capital’s culinary cognoscenti had been saying for an age: this opulent, marble-columned dining room, under the stewardship of old school toque John Williams, is truly one of London’s world class restaurants. Summoning the spirit of Escoffier, Williams relishes such oft overlooked classics as beef Wellington for two, gateaux St Honoré and crêpes suzettes flambées but doesn’t shy away from contemporary combinations such as lobster ravioli with foraged beach herbs and roast pigeon fashionably accessorised with heritage beetroot and burnt orange. The wine list is suitably patrician: rare finds from Burgundy and Bordeaux stand out but on Fridays and Saturdays – dancing nights – Champagne is just the thing to set toes a-tapping.
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ore is more’ at Bob Bob Ricard in Soho, London’s most flamboyant and unashamedly ‘Instagrammable’ restaurant bar none. The ‘press for Champagne’ button never gets tiring. If you’re going to partake of caviar, oysters and fine wine, then this is the place to do it. There are certain dishes that show you’ve ‘done’ BBR: the heavenly baked oysters Brezhnev with black truffle and the glossy ‘Bob Bob’ branded not-so-very humble
pie with wild mushrooms, truffle and Sauternes for example, but branching out yields rich rewards. Beetroot and goats’ cheese, elsewhere a hoary cliché, are here transformed into an extravagantly pretty layer cake of golden beets encrusted with nuts and garnished with discs of candystriped Chioggia beetroot – simply gorgeous. A trio of sorbets with vodka, meanwhile, makes an elegant and positively understated finish. With big hitter Eric Chavot now behind the stoves, BBR’s reputation can only grow.
CLAUDE BOSI AT BIBENDUM
Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, Chelsea, SW3 bibendum.co.uk
laude Bosi at Bibendum hasn’t even been open a year but already it has two Michelin stars to its name and an ever-growing roster of ‘must-try’ dishes. ‘My mum’s tripe and cuttlefish gratin’, not a dish one would expect to encounter in SW3, is one such. This heritage recipe is a point of pride for the Lyonnais chef, one he’s made worthy of a £90 carte at an iconic London address without jettisoning a jot of its powerful intensity. If this is what Bosi can do with innards, just imagine his way with the luxuries at his disposal. Here his creativity shines bright, introducing fiery Singapore pepper sauce to Scottish lobster and challenging sweet and savoury
assumptions in a cep and truffledusted banana and meringue vacherin. Daring and delicacy find harmony under the watchful eye of Michelin man rendered in floor-toceiling stained glass, who can rest assured his legacy is safe.
on Draper himself wouldn’t look out of place at the Colony Grill, Chris Corbin and Jeremy King’s noteperfect recreation of a vintage American grill at their Mayfair five star, The Beaumont. Corbin and King (of the Wolseley and co) are London’s scene-setters par excellence. Reality be damned, the instant you enter the woodpanelled room with its Decostyle murals and curvy booths, you’re on the arm of a dish, in a dress nipped in at the waist, and transported to mid-century Manhattan where a three Martini lunch awaits. The Colony Grill doesn’t deal in haute gastronomie – impeccably executed retro classics such as chopped salad, shrimp cocktail and veal chop are more its style – but it does do theatrics: choose steak tartare prepared tableside or flambéed baked Alaska for a side order of ‘wow’. Alternatively, surrender to your inner child and concoct your dream sundae from a tick list of toppings and sauces.
elegantresorts.co.uk 01244 897 282 eleganttraveller.co.uk
Elegant Resorts has a passion for luxury travel, which began in the Caribbean thirty years ago. Our ever-expanding, luxury portfolio now includes the ﬁnest hotels, resorts, villas and private islands worldwide, as well as an array of exclusive journeys and bespoke experiences.
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Visit elegantresorts.co.uk to explore our collection, or ﬁnd inspiration from our online magazine Elegant Traveller. Our expert Travel Consultants can help you ﬁnd your dream escape – and until 28 February you can secure one of our Elegant Promise oﬀers, our best oﬀers for 2018 guaranteed.
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TRAVEL The Jungle Book Keep your eyes peeled for the ‘alternative big five’ as Taj Safaris open India’s first and only wildlife circuit. Taking in four national parks in Madhya Pradesh – including Bandavgarh National Park (surrounded by the highest density of tigers on the sub-continent) – the loop also gives guests the chance to view rare star birds, endangered greater one-horned rhinoceros and magnificent sloth bears. Not only that, but the operator is the only one in India to employ female naturalists and rangers. tajhotels.com
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Travel Notes Find a happy place in Bhutan, stargaze in Portugal and take a moonlit ski Compiled by LIZZIE POOK
A HIDDEN GEM Launching early this year, Six Senses Bhutan has to be one of Asia’s most anticipated openings. A network of lodges with staggering views dotted around Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey and Bumthang – guests will be able to embark on a ‘Six Senses Journey’ between each lodge, exploring unspoilt Bhutan (otherwise known as ‘the happiest place on earth’) in style. scottdunn.com
A place in the sun
TRUE BLUE Wallowing in the gin-clear waters of Barbados sounds, to us, like an impeccable way to spend 2018. Fortunately, this year marks the 30th anniversary of Caribbean experts, Elegant Resorts, who are ringing it in with a dazzling refurb of the Fairmont Royal Pavilion, set along a secluded kilometre-long beach on the prestigious Platinum West Coast of Barbados. Including airy, revamped suites, soul-stirring sea views and a menu crafted by award-winning local chef Kirk Kirton, it’s the perfect place to hole up and escape the bitter British winter.
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Reach for the stars Prepare to polish your telescope. São Lourenço do Barrocal, a historic farmstead hotel, winery and spa – set on a sprawling, sun-soaked estate in the unspoilt Alentejo region of Portugal – is launching a series of brand new, intimate stargazing experiences. The hotel is located within the Alqueva Dark Sky Reserve (the world’s first dedicated starlight tourism destination) and guests at the sleek heritage hotel will be able to observe the Milky Way, planets, shooting stars and beautiful constellations, under the tutelage of keen-eyed expert astronomers.
T R AV E L
Chalet girls Hole up after a muscle-searing day on the slopes in one of Bramble Ski’s new ultra-luxe chalets. Scattered across Meribel and Verbier, they include the particularly pretty Chalet Valentine (pictured) – which has its own vast private spa with hammam, outdoor hot tub, and a fire pit for toasting marshmallows into the wee hours. Sleeping 14 people in seven bedrooms, it’s a handy 100m from the slopes.
MOON BATHING Side-step congested slopes and soul-crushing lift queues by skiing under the quiet light of the full moon at Lagalb-Diavolezza in St Moritz. New for the winter season, guests of the luxe Kulm hotel can have the pristine moon-kissed slopes to themselves, before ducking into a local mountain hut for lashings of unctuous fondue.
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FEAST With staggering mountain ranges and fine, slope-side food, the Italian Dolomites are the perfect place in which to ski and dine. This season, why not loosen your belt and set off on a gourmet ski-safari Words LIZZIE POOK
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T R AV E L
Adler Mountain Lodge
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or the sake of full disclosure, I should put my cards firmly on the table: I am not a good skier. While exhilarating, no life affirming, for others, hurling myself down the side of a mountain while encased in salopettes and thermal socks up to my knees, has simply never come naturally to me. But while lying prone, post-tumble (I’d estimate my eighth in as many minutes), in a sugar-soft snow drift in the pretty north Italian Dolomites, I have something of an existential revelation. Gazing up at the faces of the skiers who swoop delicately around me, dodging my sprawled limbs like some sort of sub-zero road kill, I can see their beatific expressions – the unbridled joy they are experiencing at whizzing through this chocolate box landscape with the wind weaving through their hair and the sun beating down on their backs. If I can master skiing anywhere, it has to be here. The slopes of Alta Badia, a collection of six villages in the Dolomites’ South Tyrol region, are some of the most picturesque in the world. Fringed by quaint wooden huts and forests of pine trees, with craggy mountain ranges rising in the distance like goddesses, it’s home to a network of nerveshredding black runs – for those into that sort of thing – as well as some of the quietest, most pristine blue and red slopes in Europe; a far cry from the busy, glitzy resorts of Courchevel, Verbier, or Lech. The region also serves up some of the most exquisite slope food around. In fact, no other valley in the Alps boasts a higher concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants than the postcard-pretty Alta Badia. And you won’t find much fondue round here. From Strangolapreti (spinach dumplings literally translated as ‘priest
The Zaha Hadid–designed MMM Corones, located at the summit of Italy’s Mount Kronplatz
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strangers’ because a gluttonous priest once reportedly ate so many of them he strangled himself by swallowing them whole), to Bombardinos, a devilishly potent concoction of warm rum, egg nog and whipped cream, food and drink is a comforting, belly-filling blend of Italian and Austrian fare. I’m actually here to experience the region’s annual Taste for Skiing festival, a season-long celebration of fine food which runs every December to April. With ‘Sommelier-on-the-Slopes’ wine-pairing safaris – where you spend an afternoon skiing from
hut-to-hut with an expert sommelier, sampling some of the finest Tyrolean wines – to a Gourmet Skisafari (where guests don their skis and meander along the slopes to taste five different dishes in five different restaurants); plus a whole week dedicated solely to Ladin – the food of the region – it’s a veritable foodie extravaganza. With a crisp one-and-a-half metres of added snow, of course. Last season, chefs from some of the world’s most famous ski resorts, including St Moritz, Gstaad and Aspen took part in head-to-head cook-off battles. But this year, 13 Michelin starred chefs – including world-renowned Norbert Niederkofler (three Michelin stars) from Restaurant St Hubertus in nearby San Cassiano – will
T R AV E L Alta Badia Gruppo del Sella
be conjuring up warm and cosy nostalgic dishes from their childhoods and serving them up from their resident huts to rosy-cheeked skiers. Expect warm, hearty meat dishes, cloud-soft desserts and unctuous plates of delicious pasta. Questionable skiing aside, my three glorious days here are spent under piercing blue skies, pottering around picturesque mountain retreats and indulging in the spoils of some of the most accomplished chefs to be found at 3,900 metres above sea level. I wolf down roast bleggo rabbit (complete with its livers), served with pumpkin, chestnuts and Sauris ham powder; a smorgasbord of local cheeses and piles of salty specks with pillowy soft beef cheek tortellini. I also discover the
delights of Kaiserschmarrn – a sort of sweet pancake dish dusted with drifts of floury icing sugar and flecked with cranberries. My feasts are all topped off with many liberal rounds of Bombardinos, crisp Brut from the local vineyard (the highest in Europe) and many glasses of grappa. I become particularly fond of two cosy Alpine restaurants: Edelweiss –where motherly patron Maria doles out warm hugs alongside free-flowing Gingerinos (a bright orange, slightly bitter aperitif ) – and Jimmy’s, where we feast on hot chocolate, prosecco and even more speck. The hotels around here are superlative, too. The family-owned Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano boasts not one but two spas and minimalist Scandi-chic interiors. Scattered St Hubertus Restaurant in San Cassiano
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with local antiques and intricate wooden carvings, the original building dates back to 1850 – with wood-panelled ceilings, roaring fires and frescoed walls. The real draw here, though, is the show-stopping restaurant St Hubertus, which was recently awarded its third Michelin-star. Head chef Norbert Niederkofler has garnered nine culinary excellence awards over the years and all of his dishes are crafted entirely from locally-foraged ingredients (including around 450 different types of vegetables). Order the lacquered eel, pumpkin and buckthorn paired with the 2012 Vitovska Vodopivec for a pleasant surprise. Slightly further afield, San Luis Hotel, some two hours away, is reached via serpentine roads winding through staggering mountain ranges and pretty Alpine valleys. Step one foot in the lobby you’ll be taken aback by the soaring ceilings, crackling fireplace, parquet floors and floor-to-ceiling windows, which look out over a vast mint-green lake and swathes of snow-topped pine trees raising their lofty branches to the sky. Rooms come in the form of scattered chalets which teeter on the edge of the lake, and treehouses which disappear into the tangles of the surrounding forest with a whisper. Many of the rooms – filled with open fires, billowing fabrics and lots of wood panelling – also have their own hot tubs and saunas. Perfect for wallowing in
T R AV E L LOOK CHIC ON
after a day of snow-shoeing, cross-country skiing or wine-sampling. Tables in the hotel’s restaurant practically groan under the weight of Italian-style antipasti, and many of the ingredients are sourced from the large market garden that supplies the hotel’s kitchen. To fuel up ahead of a day on the slopes, tuck into a plate of locally grown Mediterranean vegetables by raw food fan and Michelin-starred chef Artuto Spiocchi in the hotel’s clubhouse hub. There’s also an airy double-height spa with windows looking out over the soul-soothing treetop views and black linen loungers aching to be sunk into (ask for physiotherapist Francesco; with just a touch he’ll know things about your muscles that you never even knew yourself ). If you’re feeling particularly ballsy there’s also a pontoon which stretches out onto the chilly waters of the lake; perfect for plunging into for a spot of ‘winter bathing’, proven to boost mood and improve mental health. For something more remote, head to Adler Mountain Lodge – a bewitching hideaway perched on one of Europe’s largest plateaux: the majestic Seiser Alm. Sitting at a staggering 1,800 metres above sea level, you can while away afternoons soaking up the sweeping views across the Dolomites and gazing upon the jagged edges of the commanding Langkofel peak. Being this high up means there’s also no better spot from which to view the enrosadira – the local name given to the colour of the mountains changing at
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dawn and dusk. There’s also a gloriously heated outdoor wrap-around infinity pool that provides panoramic views of the ethereal mountains. The main lodge, constructed from local larch and spruce, houses 18 suites, but pick your way further up the slopes and there are 12 sprawling two-storey chalets providing immense views across the rolling mountain pastures and soaring mountain peaks. Each has its own private balcony, intimate sauna, vast fireplace and their very own sundowner terrace. Here, days start with a calming yoga session surrounded by snowy forests, or an amble along the Nordic Walking Trails, followed by a breakfast of authentic local omelette with meadow herbs. The Dolomites has to be one of the world’s most beautiful places, with its deep mountain valleys, babbling rivers, dense forests and still, cold lakes. Sadly, during my stay I don’t quite master the art of skiing, but I do succeed in wobbling down some blue runs in tact and hurling myself through the doorways of some of the warmest, most welcoming slope-side restaurants around. Come hungry, with an open heart and mind and you’ll be sincerely rewarded. For more information on The Taste for Skiing festival, visit altabadia.org. Rooms at Rosa Alpina start at £390, rosaalpina.it; San Luis Hotel offers rooms from £264 per person in a chalet or treehouse when booking a seven-night stay and suites at Adler Mountain Lodge start at £670, adler-lodge.com
CARRERA Evo ski goggles £119; my theresa.com MOON BOOT Vinyl metallic snow boots £75; net-a-porter.com MONCLER GRENOBLE Leather ski gloves £350; mytheresa.com FALKE Ski socks £25 falke.com PERFECT MOMENT Queenie ski jacket £335; perfectmoment.com TUMI Aluminum carry-on suitcase £855; tumi.com PERFECT MOMENT Star suit £355; perfectmoment.com CHINTI & PARKER Ski Party wool scarf £150; net-a-porter.com LEICA Sofort Instant camera £250; selfridges.com
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T R AV E L
UK Escape COUNTRYSIDE
Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT
The huge but homely Lygon Bar & Grill – complete with barrel ceiling and a minstrels’ gallery – is strewn with antler chandeliers and comfy leather booths. The seasonal British menu uses the finest locally sourced ingredients from Artisan producers and farmers, and standout dishes include the twice baked cheese soufflé, zingy grilled octopus, and the melt-inthe-mouth Gower salt marsh lamb cutlets. Leave room to devour the seasonal fruit crumble with clotted cream ice-cream by a roaring fire, as old portraits of some of our finest countrymen folk watch over you. The speakeasy style cocktail bar offers a tempting drinks list crafted from botanicals, including the delicious Lavender Negroni.
THE LYGON ARMS THE SPA
With cosy treatment rooms, a gorgeous 13-metre indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof, Jacuzzi, male and female saunas and a eucalyptus-scented steam room, the spa is the ideal place to idle away a lazy afternoon. The Jessica Nail Studio takes care of hands and feet with finesse, the hot stone massage is sumptuous and relaxing, while the Signature Glow Facial is worth booking ahead for. Couples treatments are available should you wish to indulge together. Products include Oskia, Decléor and Ila - a natural, organic range which is produced in the Cotswolds.
Tucked away in the Cotswold’s picture perfect Broadway lies the venerable 16th century coaching inn The Lygon Arms, which has just reopened its weighty Tudor doors after a multimillion pound refurb. The inn is so old (one of the most historic in Britain) that figures from Oliver Cromwell and Edward VII to Evelyn Waugh have trodden its ancient hallways. It’s no surprise, then, that you can practically feel the history woven through the fabric of this place – with its lush velvet sofas, creaky stairs, rich wood panelling and centuries-old stone fireplaces. Each room has been individually decorated by interior designer Anita Rosato, including the opulent King Charles I Suite – where the monarch and his supporters assembled before battle – which still has the King’s coat of arms above its impressive fireplace. Set on three acres of private, manicured gardens and with a multitude of beautiful countryside walks on its doorstep, the romantic inn is so intimate, it’s also the place to which Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor escaped during their scandalous ’60s affair. From £255 per night, including breakfast; High Street, Broadway, Worcestershire, WR12 7DU; (01386 852255); lygonarmshotel.co.uk
A maze of oak panelling, inglenook fireplaces and ancestral portraits, each of the inn’s 86 rooms – including large courtyard-facing options – is scattered with quirky antiques, and even the smallest come with comfy leather armchairs and writing desks. All contain spectacularly comfortable handmade natural organic Naturalmat mattresses, while master suites boast high-vaulted ceilings, wooden beams, magnificent four-poster beds and some even have private gardens. Junior Suites have room for the whole family and dogs are welcome in eight of the rooms.
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S T R ATA J E T.CO M
HOME & The
Floor Show It’s been more than 17 glorious years since Brit design icons Paul Smith and The Rug Company began collaborating to produce their range of luxurious carpets, bringing colour and pattern to the most fabulous floors. Hand knotted by weavers in Nepal using the finest Tibetan wool, Smith’s brand-new range is a playful development of his classic stripes, this time reworked in a layered palette of no less than 52 pastel shades, each one created individually for the rug. Carnival Pale by Paul Smith for The Rug Company, available in various sizes. From £2,456 therugcompany.com
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Design Notes Sculptural glass and charismatic ceramics, plus the comeback of chrome
CRYSTAL CLEAR To celebrate a triumphant decade in design, award-winning, London-based product designer Lee Broom has reimagined some of his most acclaimed pieces including the iconic Crystal Bulb. A permanent fixture in the Design Museum, the versatile lamp is now available in chic chrome.
Compiled by CLAUDIA BAILLIE
When it comes to design houses, they don’t get much more influential or in-demand right now than Milanese design-duo DIMORESTUDIO. Renowned for their decadent and maximalist style, founders Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci are responsible for the interior at Leo’s, the recently launched supper club at legendary London hotspot The Arts Club, which blends Sixties Riviera style with oriental influences. dimorestudio.eu
ART OF GLASS Take your tea-brewing up a notch with the new Bump collection by Brit design maestro Tom Dixon. Including tea cups, a teapot, tall and short glasses, vases and a delicate jug, the minimalist pink-and-grey forms are inspired by scientific apparatus and mouth-blown from borosilicate glass, more commonly found in laboratories. Positive reactions guaranteed, no experimentation necessary. From £45, tomdixon.net
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Luke Edward Hall is the hip interior crowd’s most wanted. Snap up these signature illustrative ceramics before they fly out of the door, exclusively at Liberty London. From £400, libertylondon.com
HOME & INTERIORS
Taking inspiration from the exotic Bahia Palace in Marrakesh, this elaborate wallpaper panel by internationally acclaimed interior designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard, is part of a new collection of opulent, contemporary designs that celebrate the skill and craftsmanship of cultures around the globe. Hang it on its own, run several side-by-side, or pair with the intricate Jali Trellis paper, designed to work perfectly with the trompe l’oeil design. Bahia (door) & Jali Trellis (wall) wallpaper, £450 per 11m roll, and £95 per 10m roll, from the Martyn Lawrence Bullard collection at Cole & Son
Bring bold personality to your sofa with our pick
HOUSE OF HACKNEY Large velvet cushion in pink, £195, houseofhackney.com LINDELL & CO. Drolma embroidered cushion, £225.00, nushka.co.uk BELLA FREUD Fairytale of New York cushion, £160, amara.com EMMA J SHIPLEY Cheetah cushion, £95.00, emmajshipley.com MISSONI Raman cushion, £136, amara.com JULES PANSU Picasso Woman in Green cushion, £99, conranshop.co.uk GUCCI Angry Cat embroidered velvet cushion, £1,140, gucci.com
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Midnight Garden Mix bold florals and gothic influences for an dark and dramatic interior Compiled by CLAUDIA BAILLIE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COX LONDON Bronze oak tree chandelier, £11,760, coxlondon.com SURFACE VIEW Bespoke wall murals from £65 per sq/m, surfaceview.co.uk A MODERN GRAND TOUR Ostrich feather lamp in dusk, £3,500, amoderngrandtour.com FRONT Rabbit lamp, £426, moooi.com BAZAR THERAPY Royal bouquet table, £2,047, madeindesign.co.uk MOOOI Eden QueenRug by Marcel Wanders, from £2,024, moooicarpets.com HOUSE OF HACKNEY Midnight Garden London sofa, £4,895, houseofhackney.com L'OBJET Mullbrae candy dish, £140, uk.l-objet.com SELETTI Industry Garden Chair, £190, yoox.com DESIGNERS GUILD Delft Flower Noir cushion, £120, designersguild.com
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From invite-only talks to intimate networking events, members of luxury homestay service onefinestay enjoy more than just financial rewards. The Glossary reveals how renting out your home could gain you access to some of the most exclusive events in the city
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ne of life’s great pleasures is checking into a beautiful hotel, kicking off your shoes and sinking into a luxurious bed. But what if you could stay at a rental home that had the same high standards and thoughtful touches as a boutique hotel, coupled with the charm and comfort of a real home? That’s the premise of onefinestay, launched in 2009 in London by Greg Marsh, Demetrios Zoppos, Tim Davey and Evan Frank, and now with a 10,000-strong portfolio of curated homes, villas and apartments in countries all over the world. Its homes are high calibre, from a townhouse in Chelsea and an apartment in Rome, to a poolside mansion in The Hamptons or a beach house in Antigua. These are properties where you can expect fine art on the walls, an infinity pool or a private gym. And while you holiday in someone else’s home, you could be renting out yours, too. Prospective homestay owners complete a two-minute survey and if your property meets the company’s exacting standards, the team take care of everything else. Before guests arrive, a dedicated team visits each home to clean, pack away
valuables and, if needed, fit tamper-proof seals on wardrobes and drawers, allowing you to store possessions discreetly away from guests. The team also brings in 200-thread count bed linen, plus plush towels and boutique toiletries to stock the bathrooms. Once guests check out, the team returns to clean the property and check everything is just as you left it. Homestay guests are looked after by a manager, who meets guests, introduces them to your home, runs through the
“While you take a holiday in
house rules (the lead guest must be 25 years old or older) and is then on-call 24 hours a day throughout their stay. They’ll even arrange airport transfers, grocery shopping and childcare. Guests are supplied with an iPhone with a concierge on-call, free data, unlimited local calls and several useful apps to help them make the most of their stay. Like we said – they take care of everything. The current roster of London properties stretches across the capital, from smart family homes in Belgravia to edgy loft conversions in Shoreditch, and onefinestay is looking to expand its curated portfolio of homes throughout central London. The financial rewards of renting out your home through onefinestay can be impressive – especially if your property would otherwise be unused – and you are in complete control of the availability, allowing you to rent out your home only when it suits you. However, the incentives extend far beyond monetary reward. Homestay owners are part of a coveted club, which allows members discounts on
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someone else’s home, you could be renting out yours, too”
other properties and gives them access to exclusive members-only events. These events are designed to bring together its interesting and diverse client base for an informal networking
and socialising opportunity. Recent events include a talk at the South Kensington Club with the mavens from Farrow & Ball, VIP passes to designjunction, and tickets to some of London Craft Week’s most prestigious events, including a behind the scenes look into Christian Louboutin at its flagship store. In November, onefinestay members were invited to a breakfast and private view of the National
Portrait Gallery’s major international exhibition Cézanne Portraits. Nicholas, who has rented his home through onefinestay since 2015, is a regular at member events. “It’s like being part of an exclusive club with some great social and networking events, as well as valuable help and advice on presenting and maintaining your home,” he says. “I love my home but I don’t need to be here all the time as my work allows me to travel frequently for periods of time, so onefinestay is ideal for me.” And along with the flexible rental terms and complete management service, Nicholas has discovered another positive: “I often find it in better condition when I return than when I left!”
If you have a beautiful home you’d like to share in London or one of onefinestay’s other 100+ destinations, contact Victoria and the team to find out what joining onefinestay could mean for you. firstname.lastname@example.org; 020 3763 3804; onefinestay.com
Queen of the
STONE AGE Jeweller Lara Bohinc is applying her geometric aesthetic to furniture – and the result is breathtaking Words BETHAN RYDER Photography KATE MARTIN
ara Bohinc (rhymes with ‘prince’) always cuts quite a dash around town. There’s the signature red lips (MAC’s Lady Danger, if you’re asking), those Hollywood cheekbones, her own bold jewellery, and she’s usually rocking a fashion-forward number like a Roksanda frock, or a figure-hugging vintage denim jumpsuit. She has in the past referred to her looks as “Rachel from Blade Runner goes to Glastonbury.” So it should perhaps come as no surprise that when I visit the jewellery-turned-furniture designer at her recently opened atelier on a quiet Bayswater residential square, I find her wearing a Mother of Pearl dress that is the same peach shade as her marble floor. Which in turn echoes some of the furniture pieces and home accessories on display - a striking geometric composition formed from a variety of different coloured marble. It’s like stepping through a portal to discover Bohinc’s super-stylish world in 360 degree surround vision. And yet this is just a happy, stylish accident. Bohinc laughs off the matchy-matchy dress and marble as pure coincidence, but acknowledges she’s struck lucky with the interior architecture, which was inherited from the previous incumbent. “It was the home of the architect Harvey Langston-Jones, he laid the floor,” she says in her throaty Slavic drawl, adding “It’s incredible, no?” This is not the first time such serendipity has blessed Slovenian-born Bohinc, who lives in Marylebone with her partner Ben and nine-year-old daughter Coco. Her stellar jewellerydesign career was kickstarted in the ’90s when she was studying an MA in Jewellery & Metalwork at London’s RCA. It was an exciting time to be in the capital, so much the creative hotbed that in 1997 Vanity Fair devoted an entire issue to the city’s movers and shakers, declaring “London Swings! Again!” on the cover. The same year Bohinc designed some elaborate headpieces for a friend’s graduate show. Spied by Vogue’s influential fashion director Lucinda Chambers one ended up crowning the supermodel Georgina Grenville in a Mario Testino cover shoot - and so Bohinc’s star was in
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the ascent. “It was quite popular at the time to have extreme jewellery on the catwalk, often pieces that weren’t even that wearable,” she recalls of her collaborations with labels as diverse as Costume Nationale, Kosuke Tsumura and Guy Laroche. “It really took off then and grew organically from there,” she says. Winning the British Fashion Council’s New Generation award after graduation secured her status as the hot new talent in town – and a one-woman studio in Clerkenwell. This was followed just a few years later by a Hoxton Square headquarters with a team of staff. Earrings, rings and necklaces – even when selling to the likes of Kate Moss, Claudia Schiffer or Elle MacPherson – didn’t satisfy Bohinc’s boundless creativity for long. Indeed it was a dissatisfaction with the limitations of post-graduate design courses in Ljubljana that drew her to the Royal College and London in the first place. Jewellery was never going to be her sole vocation. By 2000 she was also designing bags. Inspired by Marlene Dietrich, they juxtaposed a variety of materials such as metal, leather, sterling silver and Perspex. And while jewellery remained a constant, she consistently dabbled elsewhere, producing other small objects – such as an art decoinspired cigarette case for Japanese brand Sobranie, an elegant mirror compact for Shiseido – in the same way she did as a girl. “I was always making a variety of things,” she says of her childhood, “little pieces from wires, plastic, leather and also casting resins, some jewellery. I was always moving furniture around. I couldn’t decide what I wanted to be but I knew it had to be some form of three-dimensional design.” Her ambitions were supported by her mother,
who, although a judge, was “quite creative and always drawing”, and her civil engineer father who was elated when she shelved aspirations to become an actor for a degree in industrial design at the Ljubljana Academy of Fine Art. “He was so relieved and happy, he said that is a really good profession,” she says . Bohinc’s degree enabled her to explore design in its broadest sense. “One minute we were creating a hoover, the next cutlery. I realised I’m not the most technical person, although ironically lately I’ve become more interested in it in a decorative way,” she says referring to her beautiful, and rather monumental Solaris Kinetic Table. Priced at £54,000, it signalled a major departure from her previous work in fashion, beauty and jewellery.
The table is composed of four stacked marble discs edged in brass and connected to a rotation spindle which give each a range of orbit, so their positions can be adjusted to suit. It was conceived in collaboration with British stone specialists Lapicida for Wallpaper* magazine’s Handmade exhibition at Milan Design Week 2014. While she had already created pretty etched glass candleholders for Skultuna (one of her best-sellers), this was the iconic headliner that catapulted Bohinc into the luxury interior design sphere. Despite the scaling up, her designs have been described as “jewellery for the home”. There’s her fondness for warm metallics – brass is a recurring material and bronze glazes appear on her ceramic Fortress Column vases – and the shared inspirations – celestial bodies and the solar system have been preoccupations. Beyond that, Bohinc’s longstanding love of geometry and 20th century architecture clearly shines through. “Inspiration can range from nature to architecture to art,” she says, “but yes I like things based on geometry – art deco, Memphis, Brutalism – my work is less about organic form and more about geometric expression. The movements might be as far apart as arts and crafts or Zaha Hadid, I like to break it down and not stick to a particular period.” Indeed, there’s nothing static, or immutable about Bohinc. She’s unrelenting in her quest to explore new materials and design disciplines. Her recent works include vases in Murano glass, ceramics and acrylic lighting, all made by Italian manufacturers. She has travelled much further afield to Wajima, a remote area of Japan, where she has enjoyed a Japanese government-
“Inspiration can range from nature to architecture to art. My work is less about organic form and more about geometric expression”
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HOME & INTERIORS
sponsored design residency with Urushi lacquer masters. “It’s right on the coast and all they do there is lacquerwork and fishing, the seafood and sushi was amazing! Most craftspeople work from home, in very small spaces and generally the items they make are quite small – boxes, combs and so on. Everything is made by hand and each artisan specialises in a different technique, engraving, painting on lacquer, plain lacquering.” This will be the first time Bohinc has combined jewellery and furniture into one collection. She’s working on a vanity desk and small stoollike chair, some boxes and jewellery – and it’s been a long process. “It’s extremely time-consuming, you might apply 30 layers of lacquer and each
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coat has to dry in particular humid conditions,” she explains. The vanity desk has taken six months, so expect prices to be in the thousands. Although Bohinc doesn’t miss the many limitations of designing jewellery, this range excites her: “I always wanted to make big colourful pieces and you can’t do that with metal. You can do it with acrylic, but I prefer to work with natural materials, so it’s really nice. “The artisan I’m working with has developed his own colour palette with unusually vivid and pastel shades like petrol blue, bright yellow, green and pink.” Trust Bohinc to eschew the usual traditional red and black lacquer work and create something more dynamic. She’s expanding her ceramics range and a collaboration with Matter of Stuff to produce some metal chairs is in progress. On her wishlist is creating cutlery and bathroom taps, but she’s also doing a course in kinetic art. It seems London, where she's been since 1994, has proved to be her oyster, and looks to be her adopted home city for some time to come. “Whenever I come back from Slovenia or recently Japan, I remember what I love. It’s the mix of different nationalities and cultures and people are very permissive. It’s my favourite place.” Lara Bohinc atelier, by appointment bohincstudio.com
GLOSSARY BEST BEAUTY SPOT Akasha spa at Café Royal Hotel, which I use for the pool , sauna and steam room. It's a quiet and peaceful oasis, right in the middle of the hectic whirl of Piccadilly. 50 Regent Street, Soho, W1 hotelcaferoyal.com BEST SHOPPING STREET Golborne Road is great for its independent shops. Rellik is best for vintage finds. They stock a great selection of pieces from the 1980s and 1990s, and also hard-to-find London designers. I recently bought a Helen Storey bodysuit there. Les Couilles de Chien is a real cabinet of curiosities for the home with fabulous antique furniture, lights, glass and ceramics mixed with taxidermy. Rellik, 8 Golborne Gardens, Notting Hill, W10; relliklondon.co.uk Les Couilles de Chien, 65 Golborne Road, Notting Hill, W10; lescouillesdechien.com COOLEST COCKTAILS The best cocktails are at Chiltern Firehouse, their drinks menu changes seasonally but their amazing bartenders can make you a drink to order – which for me is vodka, soda, lime and chili with ice or an espresso martini. 1 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1; chilternfirehouse.com FAVOURITE RESTAURANT Trishna is the best Indian restaurant in the world. The food is light with a contemporary twist. I literally like everything on the menu but their Hariyali bream is out of this world. 15-17 Blandford Street, Marylebone, W1; trishnalondon.com GO-TO DESIGNER I met Roksanda a long time ago through mutual friends. We both speak Serbian and we share the same love for all things modern. I love the way she makes sculptured, tailored clothes that are feminine and functional. 9 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1; roksanda.com
L A S T WO R D
MY GLOSSARY TRINNY WOODHALL
The presenter turned beauty entrepreneur opens up her little black book to the capital, from flowers to facials Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT HOME IS… Chelsea, it’s where I lived when I was younger so I’ve come back to my roots. I live just off the Kings Road and it’s got everything on the doorstep. My daughter and I love going shopping there together. FAVOURITE SHOPS I stock up on beauty buys at Space NK. My favourite independent store is John Sandoe in Chelsea which has the most interesting selection of books and knowledgable staff. spacenk.com johnsandoe.com PERFECT SUNDAY A lie in for me on a Sunday is 8am. I start my morning with a Facebook Live, speaking to my followers around the world who are all so engaging and fabulous, they really lift my mood. If my daughter is in London, we’ll go out for lunch otherwise I’ll visit my mother. In the evening, I like to chill out with my boyfriend and we’ll watch films FOR A WORKOUT I GO TO… Grace Belgravia, the women-only health club. They have lots of different classes and the most wonderful teachers. My favourite treat is going to Reformer Pilates in the morning followed by a delicious and super healthy breakfast in their sitting room. I go at least once at week. gracebelgravia.com
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THE DISH I ALWAYS ORDER IS… Goujon Sole with mushy peas at Scott’s in Mayfair scotts-restaurant.com PRADA
FAVOURITE SHOE DESIGNER Prada because I love chunky shoes. I’m a huge fan of their platform brogue - I must have them in 12 different colours! prada.com MY GO-TO DESIGNERS Celine’s classic mens cover coat is a staple in my wardrobe. It has no buttons and is super streamlined. I have it in four different colours and it never goes out of fashion. I just wish they did it in white. Stella McCartney is great for shoes and shirts. celine.com stellamccartney.com ON MY SHOPPING LIST I’m planning to buy some floaty maxi dresses by Temperley London. I’ll wear them with trainers during the day and platforms at night. temperleylondon.com
PREFERRED HOTEL I adore Claridge’s and its oldfashioned grandeur. The people who work there are incredibly charming and nothing is ever too much trouble. claridges.co.uk THE FLORIST I RELY ON IS… Rob Van Helden in Battersea - I can just give him a call and describe the person I’m sending to and he’ll know exactly what to design. I love to send flowers in unexpected moments, say after a beautiful dinner or when a friend is feeling blue. rvhfloraldesign.com
FAVOURITE ART GALLERY Modern art is quite a new concept to me therefore I love to be introduced to new, exciting artists at the Saatchi Gallery. It’s a beautiful, open space thats non-intimidating. The current show Iconoclast: Art Out of the Mainstream is a must-see. saatchigallery.com I BUY FURNITURE AT… Alfie’s Antique Market in Marylebone - it’s so quirky and a real treasure trove. I love the 1930s era in particular and like to buy mirrored tables and lamps that I mix with more modern pieces in my home. alfiesantiques.com
TOP FACIALIST Diana at Dr Sebagh on Wimpole Street in Marylebone. I like their active peels or Platelet Rich Plasma Facial Rejuvenation where your own blood cells are injected into your face as an anti-ageing solution. I get this done two or three times a year. drsebagh.com
/VOLUMES/GLOSSARY_ JANUARY_2018/2. TO DESIGN MY GLOSSARY TRINNY /SAA ANZERI, MAURIZIO- GIOVANN
I GET MY HAIR DONE BY… Greg at John Frieda in Mayfair for the best bouncy blow-dries. johnfriedasalons.com NEW BEAUTY DISCOVERY De Mamiel Cleansing Balm is the nicest cleansing balm I’ve ever used. It smells incredible, the texture is fantastic and it just melts into the skin creating the perfect base for make-up. demamiel.com
GIOVANNI BY MAURIZIO ANZERI ICONOCLASTS AT THE SAATCHI GALLERY
EVERYDAY BEAUTY ESSENTIALS I take Biotin supplements by Solgar for my hair and Flaxeed Oil capsules for overall skin and body health. I wear the BFF Cream from my Trinny London range as it gives me a healthy glow without looking too heavy. I also use Lip Glow in Lyla, a gorgeous apricot colour named after my daughter. Trinny London is available from trinnylondon.com
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06/07/2017 11:06 07/07/2017 10:10
Dedicated to the finer things in life, The Glossary is London’s luxury ‘Little Black Book’ for the modern woman. The Glossary informs on the...
Published on Jan 15, 2018
Dedicated to the finer things in life, The Glossary is London’s luxury ‘Little Black Book’ for the modern woman. The Glossary informs on the...