Nancy Chen 2025, Insomnia

Page 1


- INSOMNIA -

midnight 4 a.m.

A room betrayed by sleep No dream And night is a grave opening, and the door is a cane of light and the chairs--no joy A phantom of sand obscures all their colors

A room-nothing in it except death reading its walls

- Adonis Selected Poems -

Concept

Insomnia has profoundly shaped my creative journey, inspiring this project to transform its emotional impact into fashion that provides security and healing.

By designing garments with enveloping qualities, I aim to create a cocoon-like experience that offers psychological comfort.

Carefully chosen silhouettes, materials, and textures evoke warmth, softness, and protection, counteracting the restlessness of sleeplessness.

Inspiration

My initial inspiration came from the distorted human figures in Schiele’s paintings, which reminded me of the curled, helpless body when one tosses and turns in bed, unable to fall asleep. Thus, I made a simple connection between this human posture and bed sheets.

Egon Schiele Crouching Nude in Shoes and Black Stockings, Back View, 1912
Egon Schiele Kauernder, 1912
Egon Schiele Man Bencind Down Deeply, 1914
Egon Schiele

Painting 1

-- 2 a.m.

I tried to depict the chaotic scene inside the brain during insomnia, with tangled lines and grid dots serving as a visualization of dizziness. This perfectly captures the surreal, ethereal feeling of the early hours of the morning.

Painting 2

Egon Schiele

Painting 3

--4 a.m.

After 4 a.m., everything feels as if it is sinking and falling. I wanted to present in my painting the state of thoughts plunging into darkness, with limbs lying numb on the bed, as if the body has already merged into the mattress.

I created a textured board, using materials such as cotton, gauze, and wax to produce a hazy and chaotic visual impression.

Friedrich Einhoff

Inspiration

After determining the emotional tone of the project, I began my preliminary research. I wrapped bed sheets around the human body, posed in various sleeping positions, and recorded the flow of the sheet’s folds as well as the shapes formed by its overlap and wrapping around the body.

Jabarrelila
AF Vandevorst,Sirens,2015

Primary Research

Primary Research

Fabric Research

I used soft white gauze as an experimental material, draping the folds around the human body to create a top.

While researching fabrics, I discovered that layering different colors of mesh over a base fabric produces distinct effects.

When transparent, stiff mesh is layered and pleated, it creates folds that are both translucent and clearly defined. Therefore, in terms of material selection, I decided on a combination of a stiff base fabric wrapped with mesh.

Material Exploration

3D Experiment

In further research, to experiment with the shaping and layering effects of stiff mesh, I conducted silhouette experiments with the mesh material and achieved many threedimensional pleated shapes.

Rick Owens SS23 Menswear

3D Experiment

After finishing the fabric experiments, I began researching silhouettes. For half a month, I photographed the shape of my blanket and the layered folds of the duvet cover every time I went to sleep and woke up.

Inspiration

I wrapped the blanket irregularly around my body, mimicking the posture of hugging the blanket during sleep, aiming to explore the interaction between the human body and the blanket during sleep. I also recorded the silhouettes formed by the overlap and coverage of the blanket and the body.

Rick Owens AW24

Collages

I cut out the shapes of the blanket’s twists and folds from the photos and assembled them into different collage combinations, resulting in clearer folds and fold lines.

Drapings

In further silhouette experiments, I used space cotton fabric on a small mannequin to test shapes, transforming the drawn pleated silhouettes into practical garment forms.

Collection Collages

Graham Dean
Colour Inspiration
Graham Dean
Photograph 3
Photograph 2 Photograph

Colour Exploration

Collages

Line-up

Look 1 Fitting

Pattern

Look 1 Process

Initrial toile 2 Look 2 Fitting

Look 3 Fitting

Initial toile 3

- INSOMNIA -

A room betrayed by sleep No dream And night is a grave opening, and the door is a cane of light and the chairs--no joy A phantom of sand obscures all their colors

A room-nothing in it except death reading its walls

- Adonis Selected Poems -

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