Forget everything you know about formal
Comings and goings in the world of Whisky
The Australian dream (and how to live it)
Architectural thoughts on building for the tribe
Putting the world to rights with Irvine Welsh
essential journal I n
p u r s u i t
q u a l i t y
l i f e s t y l e
I s s u e
THE BILLION DOLLAR SUPERHERO
CHADWICK BOSEMAN "There's no reason why the character who gets to save the world should always be a white man."
w w w.e s s e nt i a ljou rna l .c o.u k
Contents Middle Eight
THE PRIMER Featuring the unsung hero of mid-century California, a documentary to watch with your rents and a podcast to boost your crypto-knowledge
10 FORGET EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT FORMAL For SS18, BOSS wants you to relax...
12 One Thing Done Well: Pantherella Socks
We explore the meeting point between heritage and innovation with Pantherella fine English socks
15 DEADWOOD RECYCLED LEATHER Fighting fast fashion trends with a Frankenstein approach to leather jackets
27 Baselworld 2018
David M Robinson guide us through the major releases from this years Baselworld, including Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Omega and TAG Heuer
19 GROOMING We delve into the science behind men’s skincare and consider the art of keeping things simple 20 A HANDSOME HOME The perfect reading chair 23 THE WHISKY EXCHANGE Liz Lock of The Whisky Exchange talks us through long-lost rums and scotch-drinking stormtroopers 24 THE DRINKS ROUND-UP We ponder the notion of simplicity done perfectly over a couple of boilermakers and craft beer cocktails 25 THE FOOD ROUND-UP A new seasonal ingredients column and thoughts on the Melbourne coffee scene
53 The Smartphone Detox
For one month only, we ditched social media and swapped our smartphones for high-end dumb alternatives for a tech-free experiment
47 BYRON BAY: CHEER UP, SLOW DOWN, CHILL OUT The Australian dream (and how to live it) 50 ARCHITECTURAL THOUGHTS ON: TRIBES This month, ARCHIPHONIC’s Adam M considers the ‘tribal’ side of architecture and how it plays into creating a sense of community 56 LUST FOR LEITH We sat down with Trainspotting author Irvine Welsh to put the world to rights 58 CHADWICK BOSEMAN The billion dollar superhero reflects on his latest venture 60 BOOKS FOR THE MONTH AHEAD Including Renton and co’s final bow, the return of a Pulitzer winner and the physics of time made (relatively) easy 61 THE IAIN HOSKINS COLUMN Social Media isn’t all bad, just ask Iain 62 GENTS, WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT: TRAIN ETIQUETTE It’s time to stop apologising to the person sat in your seat
43 POSTCARDS: MELBOURNE & LONGBEACH Focusing on city secrets a nd neighbourhoods under transformation, we reached out to those in the know to lend some generous guidance to unsuspecting visitors
35 Chester Racecourse Style Guide
Chester Racecourse in association with McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Cheshire Oaks give you their guide to style this 2018 season
Online web www.essentialjournal.co.uk @essentialjournal @essentialjournal @TEJOURNAL
CONTRIBUTORS Adam M Chris Edwards Devin Stewart Hannah Williams Ian Harrold Iain Hoskins Irvine Welsh Jets Langlands Liz Lock Sam Carr Shaun Donnelly Thomas White Tommy Kerns
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing EDITOR Davey Brett email@example.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner firstname.lastname@example.org STAFF WRITER Will Halbert DESIGNER Jennifer Swaby
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TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors. Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the publication. All rights reserved.
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
“Almost everything will work again if you unplug it for a few minutes including you.”
WHAT'S INSPIRING US:
A note from the editor
Back to basics, sort of. That was the rough theme for this issue. We’ve sat, mouths agape, watching Facebook meddle with democracy, Trump declaring war on Twitter and autonomous cars mowing people down, argued about the pros and cons of smartphones and social media and we just thought, you know what? Time out. (Obviously, we’ve remained true to our Instagram, which we can all agree is both sacred and on fleek.) This issue we’ve smartphone detoxed, delved into the importance of the humble sock, been around the globe via our Postcards and travel sections and even found time to chat with Chadwick Boseman. Not to mention crafted a beautiful pull-out of the very best watch releases from Baselworld. If there’s a better advert for rejecting the digital, we can’t think of one. Enjoy the issue, follow us on Instagram.
EVERY DAY A WORD! BY PHAIDON EDITORS You can’t beat a good quote. Dare we say it, we’d rather have a good misquote than no quotes at all. Brimming with over 700 insightful quotes, ‘Every Day A Word!’ is an inspiring collection of selected wisdom from a host of well-known and iconic writers. Featuring exclusive research from little-known letters, notebooks, memoirs and other original sources, the compact collection makes for inspiring reading on a wide variety of subjects, feelings and experiences. Quoted writers include Jane Austin to Julian Barnes, Leo Tolstoy to Patti Smith, Virginia Woolf to Lena Dunham, Henry David Thoreau to Dave Eggers, but it was Anne Lamott’s quote (featured, left) that set the mood for this issue. ‘Every Day A Word!’ (Phaidon) out now
WHAT WE'RE WATCHING:
ON THE COFFEE TABLE:
In cinemas for one night only last month, if you missed the chance to see Michael Caine-narrated documentary My Generation, it’s worth a watch when it makes its inevitable second bow on a streaming service near you. Piecing together striking archive footage (familiar and newly uncovered) as well as interviews with the likes of Twiggy, David Bailey and Paul McCartney, the documentary tells the story of the swinging ‘60s via the Brits that made it happen. Unsurprisingly, perhaps due to Caine’s own connections, the soundtrack is also a tour de force, piecing together the iconic songs of the era, a collection that would swallow budgets in any other capacity. A corresponding series is reported to be on its way too. We recommend you have a few beers and watch it with your parents.
Although the initial Bitcoin buzz may have passed, with your mates now pretending they were more interested in blockchain technology than making a few quid, it’s still a good time to brush up on all things crypto. Presented by Jay Kang of VICE fame and Aaron Lammer, a co-host of the previously featured Longform Podcast, Coin Talk is an entertaining audio jaunt through the world of cryptocurrency, with special guests and currency insiders. Coin Talk is available on iTunes
Situated in a cultural institution, Fondazione Prada’s new OMA designed venue in Southern Milan, Bar Luce is a Wes Anderson-designed cafe bar inspired by the interiors and atmosphere of traditional Milanese cafes. Taking cues from 1950s and 1960s Milanese aesthetics, as well as famous landmarks around the city, the space channels Anderson’s trademark pastels and heavily stylised detail. Complete with Formica furniture, film-inspired pinball machines and jukebox, not to mention a sweeping bar serving food and drink, Bar Luce is the perfect neighbourhood spot for a coffee or a bite to eat. Whilst you’re there, take time to check out Fondazione Prada’s impressive building and cultural programme boasting permanent installations and new exhibitions. California Captured (Phaidon) is out 20 April
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
C: William L. Pereira & Associates, University of California, Irvine, 1966. Picture credit: courtesy of the Estate of Marvin Rand
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Forget Everything You Know About Formal ''''''' '
For SS18, BOSS wants you to relax... Words by Alan SMITHEE
elax, don’t (over) do it. That’s the message this season, as BOSS focuses its New Formal collection on a more relaxed approach. Still celebrating the brands precision cuts and meticulous tailoring, the collection introduces a new ease in summer occasion wear by stepping away from the rigid dress codes of the past (Morning Suit for Weddings, for example) in favour of a more composed and subtle approach, created in equal measure from cool palettes and feather light fabrics. Silhouettes become looser and the brand’s strict tailored lines get an even softer take. Tailoring presents subtly oversized shapes, featuring loose-cut jackets and wide-leg pants. Slimmer designs still play a role but get a softer touch thanks to tapered fits. The double-breasted suit is back, balancing sartorial flair and perfect ease. Softening the look and reducing the weight, unlined constructions ensure the clean designs sit well within its summer environment in both form and function. Softly constructed suits have a subtly wornin appearance for a beautifully easy-going finish. Colours range from light blue and olive to pale beige, coral and white. Fabric is key in this easier approach to suiting with lightweight paper-touch cotton, summer linen and modern seersucker textures. The collection features styles crafted from lightweight cotton, linen or wool. Unstructured, single-breasted jackets are half-lined with softened shoulders for a relaxed silhouette, detailed with patch pockets and luxurious mother-of-pearl buttons. Some jackets and slim-fit trousers can be worn together as a casual suit or separately as a blazer and chino combination. The New Formal aesthetic in SS18 is a collection of styles which perfectly express BOSS’ relaxed take on traditional formal and occasionwear dressing. EJ
BOSS Stores Liverpool One Liverpool Metquarter Manchester Trafford Manchester Cathedral Street
Beige Suit by BOSS £575 White T-shirt by BOSS £55
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
The collection has been modelled by actor Sebastian Stan shot on location in Barcelona
Navy Suit by BOSS £645 | Shirt by BOSS £89 | Tie by BOSS £69
Striped Suit by BOSS £575 | Shirt by BOSS £89 | Tie by BOSS £65
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
9 Pantherella Socks One Thing Done Well
Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with Pantherella Fine English Socks words by Will HALBERT
image credit: Pantherella International Group
he old adage that ‘the devil is in the details’ would border on cliché if it wasn’t so often true. By all accounts, the finer details of your outfit represent the alphabet you use to spell out your own style. And if this (somewhat laboured) metaphor is to be followed through to its logical end, then it’s your choice of sock that decides if your statement ends in a full stop or an exclamation point. Pictured opposite: Enter Pantherella’s The Danvers cotton fine English socks. lisle sock is Panterella’s Established 1937, best-selling sock and Pantherella has been features their famous the go-to premium ‘seamless toe’ sock for those looking to make a real statement - big or small - for over 80 years now. To this day, Pantherella socks are produced in its fifth-generation, family-owned factory right here in the UK. In the city of Leicester, to be precise. Pantherella’s most revered stock-in-trade is its fine gauge socks with their 'seamless' toe construction. These socks use some of the sheerest and highest quality yarns - from filament silk to Sea Island cotton - to guarantee a lightweight, breathable and fashion-forward sock for any occasion. While regular toe seams often feel bulky, uncomfortable and everpresent, Pantherella’s smooth toe-seams are ghost-like in their delicate construction. This sense of seamlessness leaves the socks feeling comfortable, functional and undeniably luxurious. Now, having dedicated just two decades shy of a century to producing England’s finest socks, Pantherella has heritage and history in spades. But according to Managing Director, Justin Hall, the real art of Pantherella lies in the brand’s knack for striking a balance between the old and the new. Sure, Pantherella still produces its socks on the same street as it did 80 years ago, and it still uses a number of the classic Bentley Komet Knitting machines that it did back in 1937, but it's not afraid to invest in state-of-theart production methods if it means upholding the company’s dedication to superior quality. With a candidness that’s every bit as rare as it is refreshing, Justin states that: ‘We are not a brand that just looks to the past – we are constantly innovating, following trends and employing modern machinery to make sure we continue to be the best sock makers in the world.’ And Justin’s own choice for one thing done well should come as little surprise: Northampton’s very own Joseph Cheaney & Sons Shoes. According to Justin, Cheaney’s hand-made shoes represent ‘a strong British manufacturing company that shares many values with Pantherella for quality control and handpicking the very best materials.’ It’s an easy sell, and there’s no denying that a pair of Cheaneys and a carefully considered set of Pantherella socks would make for a solid fashion statement indeed. Whether it should end in a full stop or an exclamation point is entirely up to you. EJ The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Recycled Rebellion Fighting fast fashion with a Frankenstein approach to leather jackets words by Will HALBERT
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
"‘Fast fashion’ and ‘anxious design’ have not only replaced a love for genuine self-expression solid craftsmanship, they have sown the seeds for a buy-cheap-buy-often mentality that could give two shits about sustainability or ethical working conditions, let alone the simple matter of style."
ay Cause Urge to Love or Rebel.’ The message reads loud and clear at the foot of each jacket’s care instructions. Less of a warning, more of a manifesto: The message perfectly encapsulates Deadwood’s ethos of rebellion and general rage against
the fashion industry. Founded in Stockholm in 2012 by long-time friends Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder, Deadwood create new leather jackets with old-school attitude in a bid for sustainability and back-to-basics fashion ideals. According to Carl and Felix, the clothing industry - today a 3 billion dollar global industry - is one of the dirtiest in the world. ‘Fast fashion’ and ‘anxious design’ have not only replaced a love for genuine self-expression solid craftsmanship, they have sown the seeds for a buy-cheap-buy-often mentality that could give two shits about sustainability or ethical working conditions, let alone the simple matter of style. Deadwood puts two fingers up to this trend. Far from providing a breeding ground for exploitation and mass production, their ateliers are a place for skilled workers to express and develop their own creativity. With a passion for all things pre-worn and pre-loved, Deadwood’s craftspeople use consumer waste in the form of out-of-style leather garments to craft fresh new jackets and accessories with a distinctly vintage soul. Now, as far as symbols of rebellion go, the leather jacket is either an enduring poster boy of classic cool or a tired and hackneyed caricature of an already over-exposed counter culture. And that’s exactly where Deadwood likes to position itself. With slogans like ‘Bruised Knee Youth’ and ‘Fuck Trump’ scribbled nonchalantly across a number of their core jackets, it’s clear that Deadwood like to walk a fine line between the classic biker culture of the Post-War era and the trashy in-your-face aesthetic of the punk-rock scene. It’s a ballsy attitude to be sure. One that would look a little forced in the wrong hands. But after years of cutting their teeth in the flea markets and vintage stores of Stockholm’s fashion scene, the guys behind Deadwood have the credentials and the credibility to back it all up. But I doubt they’d care either way: Carl and Felix have little interest in what’s cool right now. They’ve always had an eye on that which endures, on what’s likely to be left when the dust settles. By their own admission, they’re not looking to reinvent the fashion industry, just our perception of it. EJ
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
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The Essential Journal | Issue 32
A Cut Above This month, Ian Harrold looks at the importance of simplicity, minimalism image credit: Stoer
SCIENTIFIC SHIELDING FOR THE MODERN MAN With so many products putting out the proverbial fire rather than preventing it, we take a look at Stoer’s attempts to win back the initiative in men’s skincare words by Sam CARR, themodernman.com
rom the rugged harshness of remote rural townships to the relentless hustle and bustle of the inner city, the pressures of the environment are an ever-present attack on a man’s skin. With its premium range of washes, scrubs, serums and vitamin masks, Stoer Skincare was born out of a desire to face these pressures head on. While most skincare products deal with general skin irritations, breakouts and signs of fatigue on an afterthe-fact basis, it seems that Stoer has dedicated itself to developing a range of high-tech skincare products that can set up pre-emptive defenses for the skin. The key component to Stoer’s defence line? Its signature Clima5 technology: A unique blend of five skin-saving, plant-based Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
actives from four very different but individually challenging climates. From the moisturising properties of Scottish Peat Moss to the soothing and firming effects of the Mexican Barbary Fig, Stoer’s tried-andtested combination of actives offers the perfect protection from any environment, from the Scottish coasts to the central London boardroom. The specifics behind the whole process border on science fiction. To ensure the maximum effectiveness of these ingredients, Stoer’s Clima5 actives are encapsulated in a cutting-edge ‘cosmetic drone’ delivery system. This cosmetic drone technology wraps Clima5’s actives in a special microscopic, bio-compatible capsule - or drone - which is able to pass through the skin’s natural barrier and selectively
deliver its protective payload into the cells they’re specifically aimed at. As a result, skin rejuvenation can be carried out on a deeper level, improving the look and feel of skin and setting up an ‘environmental shield’ that will protect the modern man from everything that daily life can throw at him, whether that’s rainstorms or razor burn. This whatever-the-weather attitude is indicative of Stoer’s overall ethos, and explains the inspiration behind the brand’s name. A small village on Scotland’s west coast, Stoer is nothing if not a place of extremes. With a whole host of inclement weather types striking the village in a single day, the township of Stoer perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the brand’s ongoing, science-forward defiance of the elements..EJ
et’s be honest with ourselves: We can’t all be that guy. You know, the one who jumps out of bed, throws on an unrealistically crisp, white tee shirt, ruffles his hair and looks ready for anything the day has to throw at him. Life is a busy, complicated free-for-all at the best of times, and simplicity only comes with a little compromise. That said, here’s a few tips to help you simplify your day-to-day efforts to look like you have everything under control. First off, you can avoid the morning routine almost entirely if your hair is kept tight enough. You know that sweet spot a few days into your haircut when everything falls into place with minimal effort? Keeping things short will make that wonderful little simplicity a standard. Ultimately, this means more trips to your barber, but less time in front of your mirror. Like I said; compromise. And for those who find that their hair isn’t growing back as generously as it used to, less is most definitely more. Ditch any knee-jerk plans you might have for an elaborate comb-over and ask your barber for something tight and short. It might sound like a step in the wrong direction, but trust me, the shorter length will lend an added density to your hair. And as an added bonus, the simpler approach will lend a stipped-back, Tom Ford-esque sleekness to your look. Embrace it. Stripping back the gym bag essentials (or holiday baggage, if the treadmill isn’t your thing) is another surefire way to keep things calm and collected. Thanks to the wonders of modern science, shampoo, conditioner and body wash can now be picked up as one handy product. Obviously, these three-in-ones won’t excel in any one department, but in the interest of keeping things light and simple they fit the bill nicely. After all, it’s a gym session, not a military operation. Likewise, the fistful of shaving products you might usually use can be rolled back to one, simple shaving oil. Not only do oils soften bristles and condition the skin beneath, they also offer soothing relief from the inevitable, Brit-abroad, beer-and-beach-induced sunburn (it happens to the best of us). When it comes to the solid, jack-of-all-trades hair product, two decent all-rounders spring to mind. Cream pomades are pliable and offer a more natural sheen and thicker consistency than traditional pomades. Likewise, a good defining paste will offer great versatility and hold with a matte finish. Both can be used as a base product to be applied before drying your hair for greater definition, and both should offer a solid enough hold that you can go without the hairspray and the hair dryer (because the gym crowd are an unforgiving bunch and mirror real estate is always in short supply). Pick the one that works for you and you’re all set. Now, I can’t promise you that these tips will help you become that guy. But they should at least buy you some time to iron that white tee shirt.
words by Ian HARROLD
With over 25 years of experience, Ian Harrold is the owner of three barbershops and is a member of the American Crew International All Star’ Ambassador team.
The Stingray Rocking Chair Model 3500 (white / white painted steel)
A Handsome Home:
ave you seen images going around of the coffee shop sign that reads: “No we don’t have Wi-Fi. Talk to each other. Pretend it’s 1995”? Our initial reaction was to roll our eyes. In the same way we don’t buy into the notion that millennials could afford houses if they spent less money on avocados, we can’t quite accept the argument that technology somehow cripples inperson interaction. Having said that, it did get us thinking about just how much time we do spend staring at a screen. We believe in living a balanced life and having things in moderation. Our smartphones are a great way to stay connected. The internet is a fantastic source of information. Netflix is your best friend during a hangover. These things are all true but studies do show that our mental health may benefit from occasionally logging off. We live in a stressful, fast paced world – we could do with taking a moment to unwind.
The idea of relaxation and getting back to basics conjures up images of people sat on their front porch, calmly swaying back and forth on a rocking chair. There is something peaceful about that thought. As we enter spring, perhaps it’s time to grab a book, position a rocking chair by the window and make the most of this extra hour of evening sunlight. Designed by Thomas Pederson, the Stingray Chair from Fredericia is a modern reinterpretation of the traditional rocking chair. Inspired by the fluid shape of the stingray fish, the chair’s large organic form allows for all variety of comfortable seating positions. For those seeking added comfort levels there is the option to add a headrest and sheepskin rug. Stingray is a piece of furniture that provides a unique experience of inner tranquility. Maybe that’s exactly what we all need. The Fredericia Stringray Rocking Chair is available at utilitydesign.co.uk
image credit: Fredericia, courtsey of Utility Design
words by Shaun DONNELLY
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Situated in our beautiful loft space at Nancie Henry, C.A.N is
CAFE AT NANCIE
a relaxed and luxurious retreat and now available for private
50 Grange Rd, West Kirby, CH48 4EF
hire. Guests can enjoy a choice of 50 Gins in our south facing balcony or the unique seated area in the Garden.
0151 625 6060 www.cafeatnancie.co.uk
For details on booking an extra special event contact firstname.lastname@example.org
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
High Spirits A month’s worth of comings and goings in the world of The Whisky Exchange words by Liz LOCK
One of @scotch_trooper’s ingeneus compositions
here to start? With spring just around the corner and a host of new whiskies, rums and even an Armagnac or two demanding our utmost attention, the world of fine spirits feels very much in bloom at the moment. Being the busy little boozehounds that we are, there’s a little too much going on to fill you in on just one page. But we’re never ones to shy away from a challenge, so here’s a round up of a few things that have us excited this month. LL
what we're dramming
image credit: Brett Ferencz, Scotch Trooper | East London Liquor Company
Ailsa Bay Single Malt Scotch Whisky
who we're following
Our Whisky of the Year 2018 runner up, Ailsa Bay is an all-too-rare, peated Lowland Scotch. It's got a rich and earthy backbone, with sweet liquorice and touches of tar. An oddball in the best of ways, Ailsa Bay is the only whisky to undergo 'micro maturation', whereby the new make spirit is first aged in small bourbon casks for six to nine months, in order to create rapid, intense maturation. £55.55, thewhiskyexchange.com
By turns hilarious, inspired and informative, @scotch_trooper is the brainchild of freelance photographer, whisky connoisseur and selfconfessed Star Wars nerd, Brett Ferencz. Ferencz draws upon his impressive (and extensive) collections of Star Wars action figures and fine whiskies to create striking (and side-splitting) compositions featuring hapless stormtroopers struggling to get into gargantuan bottles of whisky.
what we're drinking
Worthy Park Single Estate Reserve Jamaica Rum
what we're mixing
Manhattan An undisputed champion of the cocktail kingdom, the Manhattan offers a little more complexity than its older brother, the Old Fashioned. Simple but effective, the Manhattan is a heavy hitter that demands to be sipped and savoured. ingredients 45ml Michter's American Number 1 Bourbon 15ml Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino 2 Dashes of Angostura Bitters method Gently stir all three ingredients over ice in a mixing glass before serving straight-up, in a cocktail glass. If you must add a garnish, make it a couple of maraschino cherries. Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
who we're visiting
East London Liquor Company East London Liquor Company showcases truly beautiful spirits from the heart of the East End. Is there a better way to spend the afternoon? Take a tour of their distillery, have a bite to eat in their restaurant and sit back and sip one of their carefully-curated cocktails. Our recommendation? Their Batch No. 2 Negroni gets our seal of approval. Made with their very own Premium Batch No. 2 gin alongside a healthy dose of Campari and Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, their Batch No. 2 Negroni offers a distinctively herbaceous riff on a solid classic. Watch this space for their first whisky being released in the autumn.
A great price, an utterly delicious rum, and the perfect summer-sipper, Worthy Park Single Estate Reserve highlights exactly why we're excited that Worthy Park is distilling again. It's the first official premium rum to be released by the Jamaican estate since its closure in the 1960s (although rum connoisseurs have previously been able to enjoy Worthy Park through independent bottlings such as Kill Devil). £49.95 thewhiskyexchange.com 23
Drinks Featured Libation
Fine Wines, picks up where he left off on the subject of Loire Valley wines
ast time out we touched upon how few folk come looking for Loire Valley wines, but we didn't even mention the region’s selection of reds which, I would argue, carry as much individual charm in their own right. In the five and half years that we've been trading in Queen Ave., we might have had a handful of people in looking for red Sancerre (Pinot Noir) and maybe a couple asking for Saumur-Champigny or Bourgueil (Cabernet Franc, aka Breton). But there’s been literally no interest in Pineau D'Aunis, Cot (Malbec) or Grolleau. These are proud, flyweight reds, not reliant on their bulk and with no interest in grandeur or showboating. Nimble and spritely, these diverse and jolly reds are always alert and more interested in fun – even suited to a wee chill from time to time. We have stocked some of the quirkier offerings from the Cousin-Leduc, des Roches Neuves and de la Chevalerie estates over the years, and we usually have some Chateau Yvonne Saumur Champigny 'L'Ile Quatre Sous' in stock. But an absolute must and mainstay on the Loire shelves for us has been the red wines of Clau du Nell in Anjou, to the north of Angers, in the village of Ambillou-Chateau. Clau du Nell began in 2000 but struggled to get going before it was bought by the late, great Anne-Claude Leflaive. The Leflaive name is world-renowned: Synonymous with some of the great white wines of the world from their grand cru vineyards in and around Le Montrachet. Anne-Claude took over from her father in 1990 and, whilst not the first, became one of the most influential advocates of biodynamic farming in the region. She brought these sensibilities to Angers in 2008 when she and her husband took over Clau du Nell, stripping it all back before their gentle celebration of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Grolleau began – all under the watchful eye of their estate manager, Sylvain Potin. All the grapes at Clau du Nell are hand-picked and fermentation is in oak using only wild yeasts. The wines are then allowed to age in used oak purchased from Domaine Leflaive for 18 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, and with only the minimum amount of sulphur dioxide. As natural as these wines are, I've always been impressed with just how clean and alive they are, bright with fruit and acidity but with depth and friendly seriousness - and absolutely singing of the Loire. Clau du Nell has recently added a Chenin Blanc to its offering, which is something that I'm eager to try. But it will always be the reds and, in particular the Grolleau, that keeps me coming back. Even the older vintages prove fresh, floral and expressive – every drop a fitting testament to where it’s from and how it was made. DS
words by Devin STEWART
R&H Fine Wines, 12 Queen Avenue (off Castle St.), Dale St, Liverpool, L2 4TZ email@example.com 0151 345 0306
n an industry rife with an aggressive drive for alcoholic ante-upping and creative one-upmanship, there’s a lot to be said for the simple things. And the Boilermaker is nothing if not simple. Offering some serious bang for your buck, the basic one-two punch of a cold beer and a slug of whisky will put a fire in your belly without burning through your hard-earned funds. Now, the combinations are many. But nothing offers up comfort, refreshment and misplaced, fist-pumping camaraderie quite like the humble Pabst Blue Ribbon and accompanying shot of Bulleit ‘95’ Rye whisky. Together, they strip away pretensions and hush prejudice. After all, nothing silences lofty conversations of depth and complexity quite like a beer that has, well, neither. A posterboy for hipster drinkers and night-out thrifters alike, Pabst Blue Ribbon
is an affordable, loveable little rogue that’s in it to win hearts, not awards. Think Heineken with a little more street cred. Likewise, with a mash bill that’s 95% rye (far and away one of the most rye-forward whiskies on the market), Bulleit ‘95’ Rye offers up a similarly no-nonsense approach to simple drinking. Hitting the nose with an unmistakably peppered spice and apricot-heavy sweetness, Bulleit ‘95’ Rye adds a much needed kick to your post-work drink. Whether you mix them, sip them side by side, or chase one with the other, the Boilermaker offers a no-frills cocktail far greater (and stronger) than the sum of its parts. Ideal for those who are well and truly done talking shop, or talking at all, if you happen to opt for more than one.
Pabst Blue Ribbon and a shot of Bulleit ‘95’ Rye
image credit: Tom Griffiths
Devin Stewart, owner of R&H
When it comes to simple drinking, nothing cuts to the chase quite like the classic Boilermaker
The secret ingredient
Showcasing the unsung heroes and hidden ingredients of your favourite cocktails
ften misunderstood and - until recently - woefully under-quaffed, vermouth deserves more than a dust-laden spot in the deepest, darkest recesses of your grandparents’ alcohol cupboard. Luckily, times are changing, and depending on who you ask, a new golden era of vermouth is upon us. Put simply, vermouth is a fortified wine, which is essentially shorthand for grape juice with Casa Cinzano’ some serious special ‘1757’ brandy backup. rosso vermouth Traditionally, its principal, defining botanical and primary bittering agent is wormwood (the term Vermouth itself is said to come from the
THE BEER AMERICANO ingredients 25ml Cinzano ‘1757’ Rosso 25ml Campari Beer top (go with Moretti lager if you’re keeping things light and Italian, or opt for a hoppier, fruitier IPA if you’re looking for added clout) method Throw the Cinzano and Campari into a wine glass full of ice and top with a beer of your choice. No tilting the glass: Pour hard and fast for an emphasis on the foam. Add an orange twist to garnish.
German Wermut, meaning, you guessed it, wormwood). While over three centuries have provided ample time for some serious overlap in styles and colours, in the grand scheme of things, two expressions of vermouth stand out. One is the original, 18th century, Italian rosso and the other is the drier, whiter, and ever so slightly younger, French variant. A stand-out example of these older, bolder Italian aperitifs is the vermouth of Turin itself, Cinzano. Founded in 1757, Cinzano’s complex union of Alpine herbs and aromatics makes for a delicately herbaceous backbone to some of the
hardest-hitting cocktails in the history of heavy drinking. With over three centuries of esteemed Italian heritage behind it, Cinzano isn’t quite an unsung hero, but when it comes to classics like the Martini or the Manhattan, it’s a soft-spoken chorist with no issues belting out a solid solo should the occasion call for it. In 2015, Casa Cinzano released a special ‘1757’ edition of their world-famous rosso. This handcrafted, small-batch, premium vermouth pays homage to its Turin-based founding fathers, Giovanni Giacomo and Carlo Stefano. With a real emphasis on its wormwood-forward roots, the 1757 expression not only compliments classics like the Negroni and the Manhattan, but will also stand up to your more experimental, springtime craft cocktails. The Essential Journal | Issue 32
image credit: Gruppo Campari
On Loire Valley, Contd.
Leaving Victoria Bitter
image credit: Brooke Lark | Unsplash
Is the supposed Coffee
Time of the Season In the first of a new column, in which we discuss the importance of seasonal ingredients in home and restaurant cooking, this month Chris Edwards, Director of Liverpool restaurant Belzan, considers the humble green leaf that is Watercress words by Chris EDWARDS
In season: Watercress, Spring Lamb, Sea Bream, Jersey Royals, Asparagus, Aperol Spritz
he ground in the UK is turning green like an agricultural traffic light urging us to start using those springtime shoots and leaves. After months of one-pots, and roasted roots, it’s time for the freshness of brighter nights and lighter ingredients. And whilst it's easy to be considered a minor act next to the stars of the season like lamb and asparagus, watercress with its distinct pepperiness deserves so much more than just a bit part in the song of spring. Okay, maybe it’s a stretch to try and make out that watercress is the rock and roll saviour of spring but it deserves more. It’s delicious, versatile, ever-present and its flavour makes it the perfect leaf to flesh out a variety of salads over the next few months. It serves as the perfect base to a mackerel, jersey royal, and horseradish salad with some thin sliced red onion and beetroot, but my absolute favourite is when it is served simply dressed with vinaigrette alongside roasted bone marrow, toasted sourdough and aioli. Its flavour cuts through, even tames, the intense richness of the marrow making what is a once-a-month (maximum) dish feel somewhat light.
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Not only does Watercress have wonderful flavour, but it has the potential to play a more crucial role in our diet. Watercress is one of the easiest crops to grow in the UK, both in home gardens and on a larger scale, it has more iron than spinach per gram, more calcium than milk and more vitamin C than oranges. When you consider the impact that raising livestock and transporting oranges has on the environment, maybe we should be eating a bit more of it. Leaves, which historically have too often been the sideshow, are now featuring centre stage. One of the best selling dishes at my own restaurant over the past months is Barbecued Cabbage with Soy, Chilli and Garlic, whilst Rene Redzepi of notable Scandinavian food Mecca, Noma, has been showcasing the delicate intensity and beauty of Nordic spring leaves and herbs through his testing menu for years. Watercress is an incredible canvas on which to paint the flavours of the season. Often the negative space in art and music can be just as important as the paint or sound, and when it comes to salads, watercress helps Spring sing.EJ belzan.co.uk
Capital of the World Really All that? words by Thomas SUMNER
’m happy to bet that all of us, having booked a holiday, have one activity we eagerly begin researching. Locating the local boutiques, perusing the gig listings or making a list of your top five brunch spots, perhaps. For me it’s unearthing the best coffee and with my destination being Melbourne, I am sure you can appreciate that it felt a little like all my Christmases had come at once. However, after three weeks of ticking off the roasters and cafes, I headed home a little bemused. Everywhere served single shots and if I asked for a ‘strong’ serve it came out bitter and over extracted and no matter where I had a coffee, it likely came from Colombia. Wanting to understand what I was missing, I speed dialled La Marzocco Australia’s Marketing Manager Jets Langland, hoping to put an end to my disappointment. EJ
What’s the deal with the single shot serve? It took me a little while to get used to as well. It stems back to the 50’s when there was a huge influx of Italians and Greeks in Melbourne. They settled in areas such as Carlton and Fitzroy and set up traditional Italian espresso bars. So what do you get served if you visit an Italian espresso bar? A single shot espresso. Every cafe I visited seemed to be serving Colombian beans… It’s harvest time for Colombian beans. They are at their freshest. The brightness and acidity of them right now is awesome. Our green bean buyers purchase small quantities on demand, rather than stockpile and then experiment with the customer. We’re starting to see Rwandan and Burundi beans appear now, so in the next month or so they’ll be on most cafe menus. Where is the future of Melbourne’s coffee scene headed, how does it stay a world leader? Through its constant flow of new people. Australia, as we know it, is a young country and there are always new people with new ideas either settling or passing through. Because of all these different cultures, there’s no real traditional Aussie food, we are influenced by the world and are always looking outwards and taking inspiration from what we see. 25
GMT Master II in Everose Rolesor Alisha Duffy, DMR Liverpool
“A new addition for 2018, the Rolex GMT Master II in Everose Rolesor was a stand-out release at Baselworld this year. The use of Rolex’s own Everose gold for the first time in this collection has already attracted a lot of interest from our loyal clients.”
Never ones to disappoint at Baselworld, this year Rolex showcased a host of stunning new pieces including new generations of old favourites
GMT-MASTER II An extension of its GMT-Master II range with a new version in Oystersteel, equipped with a bi-directional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic. The lugs and sides of its Oyster case have been redesigned, and the watch is fitted on a five-link Jubilee bracelet, presented for the first time with an Oysterlock folding safety clasp and Easylink comfort extension link. Two other versions of the GMT-Master II introduce 18 ct Everose gold to the range for the very first time. The first is crafted entirely from this refined, exclusive alloy, and the second is available in an Everose Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold. On the dials of both watches, the name “GMT-Master II” is inscribed in powdered rose. The bezels are fitted with two-colour Cerachrom inserts in a new black and newly developed brown colourway. These new versions are equipped with TECHNICAL INFORMATION the new-generation calibre 3285, at the forefront of Case size: 40mm Oyster watchmaking technology. With 10 patent applicaCase material: Oystersteel tions led over the course of its development, the Bracelet type: Jubilee, five-piece solid links bracelet, movement is equipped with a Chronergy escapeOystersteel ment and guarantees a power reserve of approxiDial: Black lacquer mately 70 hours. Power Reserve: Approx. 70 hours
The new generation of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31, with redesigned case sides and lugs is here. In 18 ct white, yellow or Everose gold, the new versions are equipped with calibre 2236, at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Amongst the many combinations available, one, in 18 ct white gold, is fitted with a white mother-of-pearl dial and a diamond-set bezel. Another, in 18 ct yellow gold, features a malachite dial with a Roman VI and IX in 18 ct yellow gold set with diamonds, and a version in 18 ct Everose gold is introduced with a diamond-paved dial in laid with pink mother-ofpearl butteries.
Rolex is introducing the new generation of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36, in either Everose Rolesor (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold) or yellow Rolesor (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold) versions, each available with a large selection of dials. The new Datejust 36 watches are equipped with a 36 mm case featuring redesigned lugs and sides, and calibre 3235, at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Many different combinations are available. An Everose Rolesor version features a white dial with 18 ct pink gold Roman numerals and a fluted bezel. One yellow Rolesor version is presented with a champagne-colour dial, diamond-set hour markers, and a fluted bezel. Another yellow Rolesor version is offered with a white mother-of-pearl dial and a diamond-set bezel.
A lustrous gem-set version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. Created in 1963, this watch has established an extraordinary track record in the world of motor sport, rising to the rank of an icon. On this new 18 ct Everose gold version, in lieu of the emblematic tachymetric scale, the bezel is set with a gradation of sapphires in rainbow hues. The case is adorned with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the lugs and crown guard, and the dial features 11 baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, each of which matches the colour of the corresponding point on the bezel. The chronograph counters are in pink Gold Crystals, a material with a particular shimmer effect, created during the crystallization of a pink gold alloy by means of a special process developed by Rolex.
Case size: 31mm Oyster Case material: 18 ct white gold Bracelet type: President, three-piece solid links bracelet, 18 ct white gold Dial: White mother of pearl Power Reserve: Approx. 55 hours
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Case size: 36mm Oyster Case material: Oystersteel & 18 ct Everose gold Bracelet type: Oyster, three-piece solid links bracelet, Polished centre links in 18 ct Everose gold Dial: White lacquer Power Reserve: Approx. 70 hours
Case size: 40mm Oyster case Case material: 18 ct Everose gold Bracelet type: Oyster, three-piece solid links bracelet, 18 ct Everose gold Dial: Black lacquer, counters in 18 ct pink Gold Crystals Power Reserve: Approx. 72 hours
5968A Aquanaut Chronograph Sandy Madhvani, DMR London “In the year that the Aquanaut celebrates its 21st birthday, we were introduced to the first chronograph to enter the collection, a complication perfectly complimenting this youthful collection of timepieces.”
This year at Baselworld, it was a time for firsts, especially for Patek Philippe. The brand introduced its first grand complication of the Nautilus range as well as the first chronograph in the Aquanaut range. Ladies styles also experienced exciting new variations and updates
5524R-001 CALATRAVA PILOT TRAVEL TIME Superb legibility is a necessity for watches used by pilots. In this model, it is enhanced with applied, sculpted rose-gold numerals with white luminous coatings and broad luminous baton-style hands. The orange “1” of the analog date on the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock is a prominent detail. The self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS provides a very easily adjustable display of the second time zone. All it takes is the actuation of one of the two pushers in the left-hand case flank to move the luminous local-time hour hand clockwise (with the pusher at 8 o’clock) or counterclockwise (with the pusher at 10 o’clock) in one-hour increments without affecting the precise rate of the watch. The pierced hour hand keeps track of home time. The two time zones TECHNICAL INFORMATION Case size: 42mm Rose Gold are complemented with day/night indicators in apBracelet type: Calfskin, vintage brown strap ertures at 9 and 3 o’clock. As long as the owner is at with clevis prong buckle home, the two hour hands are superposed. The two Dial: Brown sunburst, black graduated, gold applied time-zone pushers are equipped with a patented numerals with luminescent coating safety lock that prevents unintended adjustments Power Reserve: Min. 35 hours - max. 45 hours of the local time setting.
5740/1G-001 NAUTILUS WITH A PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Patek Philippe presents the first grand complication in the Nautilus line, showcasing an analog perpetual calendar, one of the manufacturer’s most coveted classics since 1985. It is a unique combination of casual sportiness and technical finesse, robustness and high-end watchmaking artistry, endowed with the discreet elegance of an 18K white-gold case and the utility of a calendar that automatically recognizes the number of days in each month, including the periodically recurring 29th of February. Thanks to the famous ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement, a recessed 22K gold minirotor and a particularly slender calendar module, the 8.32 mm high case – it is water resistant to 60 meters – is remarkably svelte. In fact, it is Patek TECHNICAL INFORMATION Philippe’s thinnest perpetual calendar. The archiCase size: 40mm 18k white gold tecture of the movement and its refined finissage, Bracelet type: 18K white gold bracelet with new, including the bridges with chamfered and polished patented Nautilus fold-over clasp edges as well as the Calatrava cross engraving on Dial: Brass, blue PVD coating, sunburst and the winding rotor, can be admired through the embossed motif sapphire-crystal display back. Power Reserve: Min. 38 hours / max. 48 hours
5067A-025 AQUANAUT LUCE “MISTY BLUE” Following up the variations with dials and straps in pearly white, black, or taupe, Patek Philippe is adding a new blue-grey color as a further choice for the Ref. 5067 Aquanaut Luce in stainless steel – an unexpected nuance that underscores the modern, youthful design of the watch. The refined face is accentuated with applied numerals, applied hour markers, and broad baton-style hands – all in gold. The date is displayed in an aperture at 3 o’clock. The gently rounded octagonal case is inspired by the design of the Nautilus; it is exquisitely polished and has satin-finished flank surfaces. Its quartz movement is crafted with the same expertise as the manufacturer’s mechanical movements. TECHNICAL INFORMATION The diamonds – immaculately cut flawless Top Case size: 35.6mm Steel Wesselton grade – comply with the directives of the Bracelet type: Composite material, blue-gray strap Patek Philippe Seal and are set to the most exacting with aquanaut fold-over clasp jewellers’ standards. Dial: Blue-gray embossed, gold applied numerals
7150/250R-001 LADIES’ CHRONOGRAPH In 2009, Patek Philippe introduced a chronograph intended exclusively for feminine wrists. It was the exclusive debut of a classic manufacture-made chronograph movement (column wheel, horizontal clutch, manual winding) that had been developed entirely in-house. That was also expressed by the name of the watch: Ladies First Chronograph, built until 2016. Now, the Genevan manufacture is enriching its collection of complicated wristwatches for ladies and endowing this chronograph – highly coveted by discerning women – with a totally new face. The cushion-shaped case has been replaced with an elegant, round rose-gold case with a diameter of 38 mm featuring a bezel set with 72 diamonds. Its timelessly sleek design is emphasized by refined vintage-look details such as the fluted and delicately curved strap lugs, the round chronograph pushers with manually guilloched faces, and the gently cambered sapphire-crystal “box” glass. The silvery opaline dial also combines a contemporary style with classic aesthetics, showcasing sculpted Breguet hour and minute hands in rose gold and a display layout that makes it eminently legible. The pulsimeter scale of the new Ref. 7150/250R-001 respectfully pays tribute to the tradition of classic chronographs that can measure the cadence of an active lifestyle or the slightly increased heart rate of its proud owner.
Case size: 38mm Rose-gold Bracelet type: Alligator leather, hand-stitched, shiny mink gray strap, prong buckle in 18K rose gold with 27 diamonds (~0.21 ct) Dial: Silvery opaline, Applied Breguet numerals in 18K rose gold Power Reserve: Min. 65 hours
david m robinson
Black Bay 32 Mel Ricks, DMR London
“It is their ‘Born to Dare’ motto that sets Tudor aside from many other watch manufacturers. The Black Bay 32 brings together the best of Tudor’s sophisticated tool watches, in a refined case for ladies.”
Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers and seasoned professionals alike. Its line up at this year’s Baselworld pays homage to these iconic models and their legendary wearers
BLACK BAY 32, 36 & 41
BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
For the first time, a Black Bay dedicated to women is now available, introducing a smaller case size of 32mm to the Black Bay collection. Following the same aesthetic as the more refined Black Bay 36 and Black Bay 41, the Black Bay 32 is presented with two dial colour options: black or blue. As a nod to the history of the brand, which has been offering the blue dial colour in its collections ever since the 1960s, the dials of the Black Bay 41 and Black Bay 36 - black hitherto - will now also be available in a new blue version. Meticulously lacquered for a touch of elegance, the new blue dial captures the light in a spectrum of vivid electric blue to a navy so deep it is almost black. With its outstanding contrast and clarity, these shades are in keeping with Black Bay’s original purpose.
TUDOR is introducing an additional model as part of its Black Bay line, the Black Bay Fifty‐Eight, whose dimensions are similar to the brand’s first divers’ watches sporting a 39mm case. This model is fitted with a new medium sized TUDOR manufacture movement making the case noticeably slimmer.. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch, waterproof to 200 metres, reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced.
Case size: 39 mm steel Case material: Steel and anodised aluminium bezel Bracelet type: Riveted steel bracelet with polished satin finish or brown leather Dial: Black, domed dial Power Reserve: 70 hours
Case size: 41, 36 and 32 mm steel Case material: Smooth steel bezel Bracelet type: Steel bracelet with satin finish or brown leather Dial: Blue or black Power Reserve: 38 hours
THE 1926 LINE TUDOR pays tribute to its origins and watchmaking traditions with its 1926 line, a range of mechanical watches that are timeless, classic and elegant. Available in four sizes with a wide choice of dials, the range epitomises TUDOR’s philosophy: one of affordability, refinement, and quality. With its new 1926 line, TUDOR renews its commitment to the traditional values of fine Swiss watchmaking - a world where mechanical excellence goes hand in hand with enduring sophistication. The 1926 line is named after the year when “The Tudor” was registered as a brand on behalf of Rolex Founder, Hans Wilsdorf. It captures TUDOR’s philosophy and continues down the very same path that it has trodden ever since its inception, emerging as a high-quality watch technically and aesthetically, with a level of sophistication that transcends any apparent limitations.
TUDOR is expanding its BLACK BAY line by presenting a model with a multiple time-zone function – also known as a GMT function – that allows you to tell the time in two different time zones.
Case size: 41, 39, 36 and 28 mm steel Case material: Steel or rose gold with polished finish Bracelet type: Full steel or steel and rose gold combo Dial: Black, opaline or silver dial, with or without diamonds Power Reserve: 38 hours
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BLACK BAY GMT
Case size: 41 mm steel Case material: Steel and anodised aluminium bezel Bracelet type: Riveted steel bracelet, with polished & satin finish, or “Terra di Siena” brown leather Dial: Black, domed dial Power Reserve: 70 hours
TUDOR: A dominating force in the world of horology Before their relaunch into the UK market in 2014 after almost a decade being away, Tudor researched, developed and planned for the biggest horological comeback of the 21st century so far
hat I love the most about Tudor is that instead of shying away from what it was, it has have fully embraced it. It is are proud of its identity and its history and as such, its models feature historical characteristics which pay homage to the brands heritage and maintains its original spirit. Its “Born to Dare” mentality runs through the very root of all that Tudor do, and is perfectly demonstrated in its collection of timepieces. Take, for instance, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay which is arguably the best selling of Tudor’s extensive collections. The Black Bay derives its overall lines and its domed crystal
from its first divers’ watch, the Tudor Submariner, launched in 1954. With the introduction of the divers’ watches came some distinctive features, including an imposing and distinctive 8mm crown which embodies a very collectable 1958 model endearingly known as the “Big Crown”, and the instantly recognisable angular “snowflake” hands, first introduced in 1969. With the addition of new models to the family, it has been the Heritage Black Bay which has set Tudor apart from its competitors over the past few years. It has experimented with different materials such as bronze in the Black Bay Bronze and black PVD treated steel in the
Black Bay Dark. It has introduced a chronograph complication in the Black Bay Chrono. But most significantly of all, Tudor introduced its own manufacture movement in 2015. With prices starting at £1,740, it is easy to see why this range has been such a huge hit. This year at Baselworld, I was lucky enough to have an appointment with Tudor to preview its new models and I’m pleased to say it has done it yet again with the introduction of the Black Bay GMT featuring a burgundy and blue “Pepsi” bezel. From somebody who absolutely loves their own Black Bay Burgundy, I have to say when worn on the wrist, it has become
Hannah Williams DMR Manchester
my favourite watch in Tudor's collection - it’s simply stunning. I love how the brand extended its iconic snowflake hand to the red 24-hour hand, which pops against the clean black dial. The watch features the new manufacture MT5652 automatic movement, which is COSC-certified and has a power reserve of 70 hours. Priced at £2,790 on a steel bracelet, this model has successfully achieved premium market pricing with high-end market quality and standards. In my opinion, it’s an absolute winner. With this model, Tudor is no longer just competing in the premium watch market, it is dominating it.
david m robinson
Seamaster Diver 300m Neil Baxandall, DMR Liverpool
“With the constant demand for performance and value across the watch industry, OMEGA is truly making waves with the Seamaster Diver 300M. Options a plenty with straps and dials to suit any taste, a watch that is as wearable as it is functional, a return to tradition for the purists and a dive into the future for us all”
Celebrations were in order this year at Baselworld as OMEGA celebrated the 25th birthday of its legendary Seamaster with a complete makeover. Elsewhere the iconic women’s Tresor Collection has been updated for modern times and the brand has released a collectible ode to the Apollo 8 Mission
THE SEAMASTER DIVER 300M COLLECTION
THE TRESOR COLLECTION
Since 1993, the Seamaster Diver 300M has enjoyed a legendary following. This year, the collection celebrates 25 years with a full makeover from the inside out. The original design and ocean spirit are still there, but now with advanced materials and updates in every model. The sleek dials are made from ceramic and are available in black, blue or PVD chrome colour. The popular wave pattern has been reintroduced (now laser-engraved) and the indexes have been raised and filled with Super-LumiNova. Even the skeleton hands have been subtly reshaped.
The Trésor Collection follows a long tradition of exquisite OMEGA watches for women. These models, however, have been created with a new generation in mind. While inspiration has been taken from the past, the collection is purposely forward-thinking in its design, exuding confidence with a truly modern touch. The beautifully thin cases are available in either 39 mm or 36 mm sizes. This classic style is enhanced by a range of straps, which are available in colourful leather or fabric.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION Case size: 42mm Case material: Steel Bracelet type: Rubber Dial: Grey
TECHNICAL INFORMATION Case size: 36,39 mm Case material: Steel Bracelet type: Fabric/leather strap Dial: White
THE SPEEDMASTER "DARK SIDE OF THE MOON" APOLLO 8 In 1968, the Apollo 8 crew became the first humans to ever see the dark side of the moon. 50 years later, OMEGA has produced this incredible chronograph in tribute to that mission. As well as having a skeletonised dial, this collectable watch is remarkable for its specially decorated version of the famous Moonwatch calibre 1861. Presented on a perforated black leather strap with yellow rubber through the middle, this Speedmaster’s unique design remains true to Apollo 8’s pioneering spirit. The entire watch is produced in sleek black ceramic and the dial has been expertly skeletonised to reveal a blackened movement inside. Most impressively, the movement has been laser-ablated to produce realistic imagery of the lunar surface.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION Case size: 44.25mm Case material: Black ceramic Bracelet type: Leather strap Dial: Black
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Formula 1 Lady Alex Martin-Wright, DMR Liverpool “At Baselworld this year, TAG Heuer introduced us to a redesigned Formula 1 Lady, with an exciting array of interchangeable straps and elegant dial options.”
TAG Heuer has a saying: reinvent the wheel, every time you can. Never ones to disappoint, its offerings at this year’s Baselworld are a testament to its relentless desire to innovate
TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 16 CHRONOGRAPH TAG Heuer has revisited its best-selling model this year to produce a stylish, vintage-inspired chronograph version that harks back to the brand's rich automotive heritage. Since it was launched in 1963, this model has become synonymous with motor sport timekeeping. Several legendary drivers have chosen to wear a Heuer Carrera chronograph during their career. TAG Heuer has now unveiled two new stylish, vintage-inspired timepieces featuring the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 chronograph with a 41mm diameter: a black version with a black leather strap and a blue version with a steel bracelet.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION Case size: 41 mm Case material: Polished steel Bracelet type: Black leather Dial: Black or blue opaline Power Reserve: 42-48 hours
TAG HEUER AQUARACER LADY CALIBRE 9 AUTOMATIC In 1892, Edouard Heuer filed the first patent for a watertight case in the history of watchmaking. It was an immediate success. Since that time, the Aquaracer has continued to evolve, becoming a sports watch beloved by men and women in equal measure. This year sees TAG Heuer launch a brand new women's version equipped with a Calibre 9 automatic movement. A highly technical model for today's active woman who wants a watch suitable for all occasions.
To celebrate 55 years since the Heuer Carrera was created, TAG Heuer has unveiled a new TAG Heuer Carrera with its Heuer 02 manufacture movement and a GMT function. This new model adopts the design codes and DNA of the classic Heuer Carrera. An essential tool for today's younger generations, hungry for travel and adventure. Epitomising the Avant-Garde from its creation in 1963 right up to the brand new Heuer 02 line, and including innovative pieces such as the ultramodern Connected Modular, the TAG Heuer Carrera collection celebrates its 55th anniversary this year.
Case size: 39 mm Case material: Polished steel Bracelet type: Diamond or rhodium-plated Dial: Striated dials, in black or white mother of pearl Power Reserve: 42-48 hour
TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH GMT
Case size: 45 mm Case material: Black and blue ceramic bezel Bracelet type: Steel with rubber strap Dial: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides Power Reserve: 75 hour
david m robinson
BLACK BAY 41
CANARY WHARF LIVERPOOL ONE MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM WWW.DAVIDMROBINSON.CO.UK WATCH FEATURED SUBJECT TO STOCK AVAILABILITY
Who, What, Wear ? OUR GUIDE TO STYLE THIS 2018 SEASON AT
The countdown to the beginning of the 2018 race season on the Roodee continues. Very soon gates will open to horsemen and racegoers alike, as thousands are invited on-course to revel in three
days of spectacular racing, at the Boodles May Festival. Running Wednesday 9 – Friday 11 May, 21 races, a prize fund totalling more than £1,000,000 and an array of spectacular contenders will entertain the stylish crowds, with top-class group and handicap action. Competition will be just as fierce off the track, with racegoers aiming to be first past the finishing post in the fashion stakes. Chester Racecourse have teamed up with McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Cheshire Oaks, to present this season’s Style Guide. The guide brings to life Chester’s dress-code guidelines across the full range of areas and enclosures, whilst providing some fashionable inspiration from the fabulous designer brands located at the outlet. Still not bought the most important raceday accessory? A limited number of Chester Racecourse badges for the 2018 Boodles May Festival are still available and can be purchased online at chester-races.com
Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet is home to over 145 designer and luxury brands, always available at up to 60% less than the RRP. Located just 10 minutes from Chester, 30 minutes from Liverpool and only 45 minutes from Manchester.
These areas of the racecourse are the most premium and afford the most coveted badges available. Attention to detail is key to ensure you’re top of the style stakes and you’ll want to utilise your badge as part of your raceday accessories. These are the areas to be seen in and you may even spot a celebrity or two here on your day at Chester Races.
LADIES With dresses and skirts, it’s safe to opt for a modest length, just
A handbag or clutch may not be essential, but can certainly
above the knee or longer is our recommendation. Smart trousers are also acceptable.
make the outfit. It is also a useful accessory from which to display your badge or to even hold your Official Chester racecard, Chester
Power dressing is a key Spring/ Summer 2018 trend and a chic
Bet betting slip and of course, your winnings from the day!
trouser suit makes a refreshing change. For cooler days, pairing your outfit with a small tailored jacket or pashmina is advised to ensure the weather doesn’t spoil your day.
GENTLEMEN Fix up look smart! Raceday dressing
increasingly competitive for men. Use this opportunity be daring and combine great tailoring with pops of colour to inject personality into your look. In these areas we recommend a shirt, tie and well tailored suit. Blazer jackets and trousers (including chinos) could be a classy alternative and remember matching a great pair of shoes and classic timepiece can really make a winning outfit. 3
ANNUAL MEMBERS & PRIVATE HOSPITALITY Clockwise from top: Ladies Look 1 Reiss Jumpsuit- RRP: £175/Outlet: £116 Karl Lagerfeld Jacket- RRP: £289/Outlet: £195 Kurt Geiger Bag- RRP: £59/Outlet: £39 Skagen at Watch Station- RRP: £ 49/Outlet: £34 Gentlemen Look 2 Hackett Socks- RRP: £12 /Outlet: £8 Armani at Watch Station- RRP: £695/Outlet: £ 451 Paul Smith Suit- RRP: £525/Outlet: £349 Paul Smith Shoes- RRP: £28 0/Outlet: £89 Paul Smith Tie- RRP: £50/Outlet: £33 Gentlemen Look 3 Reiss Jacket- RRP: £275/Outlet: £170 Hackett Shirt- RRP: £105/Outlet: £70 Paul Smith Tie- RRP: £9 0/Outlet: £29 Paul Smith Pocket Square- RRP: £50/Oultet: £33 Armani at Watch Station-RRP: £695/Outlet: £ 451
@CHESTERRACES @CHESHIREOAKSDESIGNEROUTLET 1
SHOW US YOUR STYLE
Ladies - Product Shot Coast Dress- RRP: £119/Outlet: £ 49 Coast Necklace- RRP: £35/Outlet: £23 Coast Fascinator- RRP: £ 49/Outlet: £32 Kurt Geiger Bag- RRP: £ 49/Outlet: £39 Kurt Geiger Shoes- RRP: £79/Outlet: £39
ENTER OUR EXCLUSIVE COMPETITION FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN THE ULTIMATE RACEDAY PACKAGE Up for grabs: Two Hospitality packages in the Final Furlong at Chester Racecourse on 188BET Chester Cup Day; Friday 11 May 2018, an overnight stay at the Chester Grosvenor Hotel and to make sure you’re ready for the main event and get you races-ready,
£500 to spend at Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet. To enter simply complete the competition entry form online at www.outlets.mcarthurglen.com/ en/uk/designer-outlet-cheshireoaks/whats-on/races-style-guide between 17 - 27 April for your chance to win. Remember to share your raceday outfit planning with us on social media! We’ll also be giving away three pairs of tickets to opening
day of the Boodles May Festival, City Day – Wednesday 9 May. Simply share what you plan to wear on raceday with us on social media using #ThisIsStyle and tag us in your post @ChesterRaces @Cheshireoaksdesigneroutlet The winners will be drawn at random and notified by Tuesday 1 May 2018. Entrants must be 18 or over, please visit the website for further terms and conditions.
RELISH THE RACING @CHESTERRACES SHOP THE SHOOT AT CHESHIRE OAKS DESIGNER OUTLET
WINNING POST, COUNTY LONG ROOM & CONCOURSE BADGES Clockwise from top right:
WINNING POST ENCLOSURE
COUNTY LONG ROOM & CONCOURSE Don’t be upstaged by your fellow racegoers, style competition in these areas is fierce – take your opportunity to dress to impress! 3
Ladies Look 1 Paul Smith Jacket- RRP: £ 430/Outlet: £258 Paul Smith Trousers- RRP: £245/Outlet: £147 Kurt Geiger Shoes- RRP: £130/Outlet: £ 49 Furla Bag- RRP: £307/Outlet: £19 9 Coast Fascinator- Outlet Exclusive: £25 Gentlemen Look 2 Paul Smith Suit- RRP: £1130/Outlet: £39 9 Paul Smith Pocket Square- RRP: £50/Outlet: £25 Paul Smith Shirt- RRP: £130/Outlet: £79 Moss Bros Tie- RRP: £15/Outlet: £12 Burberry at Watch Station RRP: £ 425/Outlet: £276 Ladies Look 3 Coast Dress- RRP: £139/Outlet: £39 Furla Bag- RRP: £220/Outlet: £143 Kurt Geiger Shoes- RRP: £79/Outlet: £59 Michael Kors at Watch Station RRP: £89/Outlet: £57 Michael Kors at Watch Station RRP: £ 45/Outlet: £15
Dressing for the Winning Post and County Stand areas requires
As with hospitality areas, smart tailoring is suggested. Should
the same level of detail as the hospitality zones, but with some added fun! Do mix statement
a suit feel too restrictive, smart blazer jackets and trousers are acceptable (including chinos).
colours and bold, bright accessories to make your look pop in the crowds. Don’t opt for low cut tops,
Inject something unique into your outfit, why not put your best foot forward with a pair of polished
sheer panels and short skirts.
brogues and a vibrant pocket square.
These enclosures are the most relaxed and do not operate strict dos and don’ts. It is advisable
to dress for the elements, but style your look for the more comfortable setting. 1
TATTERSALL ENCLOSURE Clockwise from top right:
To stand out from the crowd as you make your way between the
Ladies Look 1 Karl Lagerfeld Dress- RRP: £215/Outlet: £159 Ted Baker Shoes- RRP: £140/Outlet: £8 0 Karl Lagerfeld Sunglasses- RRP: £165/Outlet: £109 Kurt Geiger Bag- RRP: £59/Outlet: £ 49 Armani at Watch Station- RRP: £19 9/Outlet: £129
Grandstand and Paddock area, you’ll need an outfit that makes a statement. 4
Gentlemen Look 2 Paul Smith Jacket(sold as a suit)- RRP: £715/Outlet: £349, Hackett Shirt- RRP: £85/Outlet: £55 Hackett Chinos- RRP: £10 0/Outlet: £65 Paul Smith Shoes- RRP: £275/Outlet: £149 Hackett Socks- RRP: £14/Outlet: £8 Armani at Watch Station- RRP: £695/Outlet: £ 471
LADIES Fewer rules apply tailored shorts,
here, skirts, maxi-dresses
Gentlemen Look 3 Hackett Blazer- RRP: £375/Outlet: £20 0 Hackett Pocket Square- RRP: £ 40/Outlet: £15 Ted Baker Chinos- RRP: £9 9/Outlet: £55 The Kooples Shirt- RRP: £130/Outlet: £8 0
and jump suits are all perfectly acceptable. Choose a classic colour combination or opt for block
Ladies Look 4 Coast Dress- RRP: £129/Outlet: £8 6 Furla Bag- RRP: £117/Outlet: £69 Armani at Watch Station- RRP: £19 9/Outlet: £129 Michael Kors at Watch Station- RRP: £115/Outlet: £29
colouring. A fabulous print won’t go amiss either.
Whilst a stylish stiletto may start out as an exercise in comfort, take care to remember there is plenty to see around the racecourse and lots of walking may be involved. A day’s racing can often lead to an evening of celebration, a long day for sore feet! Hats and fascinators aren’t compulsory but can really make an outfit. 2 3
GENTLEMEN Take a more relaxed approach in Tattersalls, but smart casual attire is best advised and usually adopted. Jackets and ties are not mandatory in this area, so be feel free to mix and match your jacket and trousers for an on-trend look. Add an extra element with a modern loafer and top things off with a retro pair of shades.
LADIES Enjoy racing on the Roodee in floaty summer dresses, smart jeans, pretty tailored shorts and summer tops. Think colourful accessories and layering oversized scarfs to finish off your look.
GENTLEMEN Keep things relaxed in these areas. Why not mix up prints and patterns, for a pop of colour with chinos and a tennis shoe for comfort as well as style.
DEE STAND & OPEN COURSE Opposite Page from left to right: Gentlemen Look 1 Paul Smith Shirt- RRP: £19 0/Outlet: £79 French Connection Jacket- RRP: £115/Outlet: £69
Gentlemen Look 2 Hackett Jacket- RRP: £295/Outlet: £195 Paul Smith Shirt- RRP: £125/Outlet: £69 Hackett Chinos- RRP: £10 0/Outlet: £65 Kurt Geiger Trainers- RRP: £ 49/Outlet: £39 Hackett Wallet- RRP: £10 0/Outlet: £55 Burberry at Watch Station - RRP: £ 425/Outlet: £276
This page from left to right: Ladies Look 3 Ted Baker Dress- RRP: £159/Outlet: £9 9 Paul Smith Scarf- RRP: £10 0/Outlet: £67 Furla Bag- RRP: £235/Outlet: £152 Ladies Look 4 Coast Top- RRP: £75/Outlet: £ 49 French Connection Jeans- RRP: £75/Outlet: £ 45 Lulu Guinness Bag- RRP: £275/Outlet: £110 Kurt Geiger Shoes- RRP: £34/Outlet: £24 Karl Lagerfeld Sunglasses- RRP: £135/Outlet: £9 9
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MORE OPPORTUNITIES TO PASS THE FINISHING POST FIRST IN THE STYLE STAKES AT CHESTER RACECOURSE MBNA Roman Day
SATURDAY 26 MAY
Halewood Summer Saturday
SATURDAY 16 JUNE
Sportingbet Ladies Evening
FRIDAY 29 JUNE
Matthew Clark Summer Festival Mr Green Ladies & Gents Evening
@CHESTERRACES @CHESHIREOAKSDESIGNEROUTLET #THISISSTYLE
SATURDAY 30 JUNE FRIDAY 13 JULY
Signature Living City Plate Day
SATURDAY 14 JULY
Stella Artois Midsummer Meeting
SATURDAY 28 JULY
MBNA Family Funday
SUNDAY 5 AUGUST
Foxy Bingo Ladies Day
SATURDAY 1 SEPTEMBER
MBNA Autumn Festival
FRIDAY 14 SEPTEMBER
32Red Autumn Festival
SATURDAY 15 SEPTEMBER
Golden Square Shopping Centre Season Finale
SATURDAY 29 SEPTEMBER
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Long Beach Melbourne Creative professionals around the globe introduce us to the cities they are based and lend some generous guidance to unsuspecting visitors
image credit: James Donaldson | Unsplash
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Melbourne, Australia Orginally from New Zealand and having "done her time" in London, Jets can now be found weaving through Melbourne's laneways for La Marzocco Australia What keeps you based in Melbourne? The people, the culture, the open spaces, having lived in Europe several times and being from New Zealand I like the perfect mix of down to earth people and easy lifestyle, with the restaurants, culture and nightlife of a city. I travel a lot for work both nationally and internationally and always find myself breathing a sigh of relief when I land back in Melbourne. What is Melbourne's best kept secret...that you're willing to share? I feel like this secret isn’t specific to Melbourne only, but in Melbourne it truly pays to look up. This is one of my favourite pastimes, as each building façade holds within it many secret lives and stories passed. You never know where you may be standing and what history you could stumble upon.
Long Beach, California Tommy Kerns is a fashion consultant and independent shop owner working out of the East Arts Village of Long Beach, California. His store, ButterScotch, is a fashion and lifestyle hub for those who share a passion for good times, great coffee and quality, heritage-forward fashion Tommy KERNS Small Business Owner
What is Long Beach’s best kept secret... that you’re willing to share? Now, the first rule of keeping secrets? Don’t tell anyone. Pretty sure that’s how this whole thing works. But the obvious answer is the shop: ButterScotch may only be in its infancy but it’s on the up and coming. Aside from that, there’s good friends at Snake Oil Provisions [boutique menswear shop specialising in ‘working classics’] and [upcoming sister shop] Snake Eyes Society right around the corner, so it’s a win-win if you come down to visit. What’s a bar or restaurant (or coffee shop, or all three) that best captures the spirit of LBC? Man, now that’s a tough one. Truly, Long Beach has a pretty great spread of eateries, coffee shops, and good times. Each space is unique as the mom and pop running it. That’s why it’s such a hard call. Commodity really comes through with the coffee, The Blind Donkey has all the whisky you could ever need, and Snake Oil Provisions provides a truly unique shopping experience. But the list could go on: There’s Restauration for all things seasonal, locally-sourced and responsibly-grown, and then there’s Taste for some killer wine pairings. So many of these places are the heart and souls of the people who own and run them. From one small business owner to another I get it and I respect it. What’s a neighbourhood that’s transforming for the better? Honestly, Long Beach in general is being trans44
formed. I have been here in my little nook of LBC East Arts Village for eight years, and the transformation has been slow, but over the past three years alone a lot has changed. You asked me the best kept secret just now and that might just be it: This isn’t the same LBC as it once was five to ten years ago…but you didn’t hear that from me… I’m no snitch. When is the best time to visit? Never not a good time to visit. Not to sound smug, and I never take it for granted, but I’m sitting in a cafe sipping coffee after just taking an hour ride on my Triumph while the rest of the United States is being pounded with cold and snow. Honestly, this is a place where it’s always summer. Even on our “cold” days. What is a tourist trap to avoid? And what is the essential alternative? Let’s just say this: If it looks like a chain or a “big box” brand then that might be your red flag. In the words of Star Wars “it's a trap!” As for an alternative, walk into a local mom and pop shop and get some references of places to see and things to do. That’s the awesome thing about LBC: We’re a community. Something that just doesn’t exist in a lot of places anymore. We are a collective of people chasing our dreams and supporting others on the journey. Walk into a shop, ask questions, explore, and find the next little gem of a place you might just fall in love with. I’ll guarantee you’ll meet some great people and shop keeps along the way.
What's a restaurant or bar that best captures the spirit of Melbourne? Joes Shoe Store in Northcote – a bar in you guessed it, an old shoe store. It’s long, narrow and has a beautiful wooden bar running the entire length of it, serving classic cocktails and an ever-rotating delicious wine list. There‘s always a classic vinyl spinning on the turntable and you can order food from Pizza Meine Liebe next door to be delivered to your table. I have spent many a day and night in their huge garden space. This is truly what our community is like here in Melbourne, warm, inviting and hard to leave. What's a neighbourhood that's transforming for the better? Footscray – It’s just 10 minutes on the train west from the CBD and has always been an incredible mix of cultures and characters. It has some of the best African & Vietnamese food in the city alongside Italian bakeries that have been trading since the 50s. Recently, with rising rent prices and apartments overtaking the traditionally popular inner city neighbourhoods Footscray is developing a very cool bar and restaurant scene, west is definitely best. When is the best time to visit? Autumn, namely the colours, an afternoon spent cycling through one of the many beautiful parks that surround the city. Then finding yourself wandering through the laneways jumping between the many secreted away bars to listen to live music and drink and dance the night away. What does the future hold for Melbourne? The population is growing rapidly, the city scape is changing and with it comes fresh people, ideas and life. I feel like the Melbourne we know now has always been shaped by the people who have chosen to call it home and with this new and ever-increasing population we can only expect a new Melbourne. If I love the old Melbourne and who and what has shaped it I can only look forward in anticipation and awe at what future Melbourne has in store for us. The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Photo Credit: Sterling Reed @sterlingreed.us
Jets LANGLANDS Marketing Manager, La Marzocco Australia
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
0151 305 2431
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
words by Thomas SUMNER
image credit: Brad Halcrow | Unsplash
We uncover the idea of living a lifestyle with Bask & Stow in beautiful Byron Bay
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
The Bask & Stow Byron Bay, Australia
image credit: Thomas Sumner
ake a walk along Bay St in Byron Bay and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in mid-century California. The street that separates the beach from the town welcomes custom campers piloted by carefree, sea-treated blonde locked travellers with perfect day-long tans. On the side of the beach, surfers and cyclists share the pavement whilst young families chill out under the trees. Across the road, those who like the view without the inconvenience of sandy toes, down ice cold locally brewed beers at the Byron Bay Beach Hotel. For us, arriving in Byron, an up-and-coming beach town just south of the Gold Coast, was like a holiday within a holiday. My partner, a native to ‘straya, hadn’t been home for six-or-so years "The beautifully restored and so far each day had consisted of long overdue federation cottage, warm embraces and introductions. As beautiful with its wrap around as this was and continues to be, our accomodations verandah, hardwood secluded location down a blink-and-you’ll-missit laneway brought a timber floors, three very welcomed moment to generous bedrooms and refresh and revive. Situated on the site of a spacious federation a kitchen fit for Nigella, cottage, Bask & Stow comprises of the cottage has been described as itself and four luxury guesthouses. Designed ‘Bauhaus meets relaxed by local architect Harley Graham, the timber-clad spaces house the owners coastal living’." collection of iconic midcentury art and design in a setting plucked right out of Palm Springs, California. Each with its own private deck, the guesthouses offer a space to relax with a glass of something cold whilst gently swinging in your cane hanging chair. Venture out from your deck and you’ll find the communal pool and sun lounges surrounded by tropical and desert plants, all adding to that West Coast 'vibe'. It’s not uncommon to hear locals name dropping here, with brothers Chris and Liam Hemsworth living close by. There are rumblings of Hollywood A-listers, such as Matt Damon being spotted grabbing a flat white with Thor, as they look to escape the Trump administration. Though maybe not quite Hollywood, we shared the Bask & Stow with a family we quickly awarded “The Most Perfect Looking Family Award”, who shortly after turned out to be Nordic singer-songwriter Jose Gonzalez. Just saying. The beautifully restored federation cottage, with its wrap around verandah, hardwood timber floors, three very generous bedrooms and a kitchen fit for Nigella, has been described as ‘Bauhaus meets relaxed coastal living’. This minimalist style creates bright open spaces in every room, which is welcomed all year round as temperatures seldom fall below 20 degrees. This emphasis on space is reciprocated out the back in the four clutter free guesthouses. Each with its own king size bed, kitchenette and freestanding bath tub. Whilst there you may find yourself wrestling with this notion of lifestyle, something I don’t feel I have back home in Liverpool. It’s difficult to comprehend the idea of nipping for a surf on your hour lunch break (it’s difficult to comprehend having an hours lunch break to be honest), but that’s exactly what one wetsuited opportunist told us he was doing. As is the idea of finishing work at five on the dot and heading straight to the beach for dinner and a late evening dip 3 or 4 nights a week, but it appears to happen so effortlessly in Byron. Though you may chuckle at the wooden sign that welcomes you to town, with its invitation to ‘Cheer Up, Slow Down, Chill Out’, I challenge you to leave feeling anything but. EJ
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
A Brief Guide on Where to Eat Before the Kitchens Close in Byron Bay
e must preface this rundown with a valuable piece of advice. When going out for dinner in Byron Bay, call ahead and check what time the kitchen closes. Depending on the season (we visited in March, Australia’s autumn) restaurants close down their kitchens around 9pm, something we learnt the hard way. But fear not, you can always grab a kebab from Bay Kebabs and head to the beach... just get there before 10pm. Thanks to our host at Bask & Stow we were well-educated on the where to dine well before our arrival. Here are our top three must eats.
BAYLEAF The hip place to let your mornings drift by
image credit: Bayleaf photography by Izabela Rachwal | Mez Club photography courtesy of The Mez Club
This bustling brunch spot is the perfect place to sit to watch a lazy weekday morning drift by, with customers settling down for a good few hours full of food, coffee and chats. Be sure to order the Dukkah Eggs after you’ve downed your morning coffee. Sit back and digest, then treat yourself to an aeropress before heading to the beach.
THE TOPSHOP The iconic hangout on the hill Its purpose may have changed but the Topshop is still at the heart of the community. The former convenience store turned cafe dishes out Byron’s best burger, a solid serving of breaded fish & chips and the sweetest of smoothies. Grab an afternoon coffee for your stroll down the hill back into town.
MEZ CLUB The newbie with killer cocktails At the top of everyone’s list is the new cocktail bar in town, Mez Club. Sit back as the sunsets on another glorious Sunday evening, with a Byron Bay Southside and selection of dips and nibbles. Alternatively, tuck into the mediterranean meze taster board full of lamb and falafel.
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Pictured clockwise from left: Aerial shots of the Chuxi Tulou Cluster. The dull exterior of Liverpool’s St Andrew’s Gardens ‘Bullring’ development, not to be confused with the building of the same name
The Circus in Bath, with it’s striking circular shape.
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
image credit: Unesco, Chuxi Tulou Cluster | We Are Homes For Student, St Andrew's Gardens | Michael D Beckwith on Unsplash, The Circus Bath
he Cambridge dictionary defines a ‘tribe’ as, “a group of people, often related families, who live together, sharing the same language, culture, and history, especially those who do not live in towns or cities.” There are few themes stronger in architecture than creating spaces to live within our own ‘tribes’. If we look through the ages, preexisting the dawn of civilisation, it’s easy to see the way that tribes have evolved. From small settlements of transitory villages, to the creation of stationary centres where residents separate relative to their tasks of hunter and gatherer, and return to come together as one community to feast.
This month, ARCHIPHONIC’s Adam M considers the ‘tribal’ side of architecture and how it plays into creating a sense of community
There are many examples of how a similar mentality has been maintained within the ‘developed’ world, an excellent example being the Chuxi Tulou Cluster (pictured). The oldest and largest of these is Jiqing Lou, (circa 1403 and 1424), a four storey ring sixty-six meters in diameter, consisting of seventytwo staircases splitting it into seventy-two individual buildings. This envelopes another single storey ring and the staircases are of that number to ensure private space for each unit. The cluster was built from cedar wood without using nails, a combination of post-lintel and column-tie construction with an overhanging roof. In the centre is a square-shaped ancestral hall. Here the idea of everyone coming together is still maintained, ensuring a sense of community. Closer to home, the UK government was looking to Europe and the idealisms of ‘utopia’ in an effort to bring hope to communities’ post WWI. Liverpool was hit hard, with 11,000 families living in one room each. By 1930, when there was financial incentive to rehouse slum-dwellers, the scheme for St Andrew’s Gardens was born, completed in 1935. Imagined as a community within the city, those in compressed housing could come and create new lives outside of their cramped conditions. Densification of the development allowed recreational space and amenities not possible in cottage suburbs.
Architectural thoughts on
Despite its ambition, in reality the building now seems more like a jail and it is difficult to understand how the concept was ever allowed to be built. It is a great example of architectural experimentation in social class and endeavouring to force a way of life. Over time it became seemingly forgotten by the council, largely due to its insular nature. Unlike the Chuxi Tulou, it housed multiple families, brought together through poverty and by lack of options. It’s centre remained open and relatively landscaped. By the 1980s, similar developments in Liverpool had been demolished and it wasn’t long until ‘The Bullring’ was converted to student accommodation, which it is much more suited for, with a different ‘tribe’ taking over.
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Back in time again, but remaining in the UK, ‘The Circus’ in Bath delivers a similar concept. With a 97m diameter, in reference to Stonehenge (99m), it was completed in 1768 and consists of thirty houses in total. Most importantly though is what happens in the centre. Originally a well that was replaced in 1810, trees now stand tall and create a privacy whilst still maintaining a sense of ownership and inherent community. Yes, it happens to be on the other side of the economic scale. Yes, it’s density is considerably smaller than that of the Liverpool scheme. Yes, it comes from a different time and different desire. Are we saying that we can’t create schemes that live and breathe with the same ambition? I think not. words by Adam M
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The Essential Journal | Issue 32
words by Davey BRETT illustrations by Thomas WHITE
S Last month, to their outright dismay, we challenged members of our team to swap their beloved smartphones for a selection of high-end ‘dumb’ alternatives. Did our human guinea pigs survive their office-enforced tech lent? Did they feel enlightened? Did they find themselves airscrolling before bed? Read on to find out… Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Shock and fear is the best way to describe the face our designer, Jen pulled when I suggested everyone in the office give up their smartphones for a month. The idea echoed around the room like the stomp of a T-rex in Jurassic Park. ‘Don’t respond, pretend he hasn’t said it’ said everyone, with their eyes. Little did Jen and other members of our team know, I had already organised the whole thing. It wasn’t Cambridge Analytica’s Facebook assault on democracy, nor was it constantly bumping into people on the street engrossed in their phones that inspired the idea, more just an interest in experimenting with a now ‘vital’ component in our daily lives. The plan was simple: go without a smartphone for a month and delete social media. The ultimate double threat that would affect every aspect of the average person’s life. The results, as you’ll read in this article, were very interesting. Our new phones were always a talking point, we noticed things we previously wouldn’t have, we read more, we filled our time with other things, some parts we missed, some parts we didn’t. Of course, the experience was different for each person, but in general I think everyone would describe it as largely positive. (Even Jen, who by the time this article goes to print, will have been reunited with her beloved iPhone.) continued 53
To see more of Thomas' illustrations visit thomaswhiteillustration.com
The Dumb Phones PUNKT MP 01
Davey BRETT Editor, Social Media & Smartphone Naysayer
irst and foremost, I can confirm that it’s impossible to organise a 5-aside football team without social media and or a smartphone. Organising any group activity for that matter is extremely difficult. Being the tinfoil hat-clad office social media naysayer that I am, I had already deleted all personal social media so didn’t mind that side of things, but I did miss Whatsapp and the many group chats. It did open my eyes to the group chat though. Despite always being in contact with my close mates in the group, when I made more of an effort to meet up with people in person, I realised how much personal stuff doesn’t get said. When you say ‘how we all doing?’, what comes back is often a face value catch all response, whereas under the surface there’s often more going on. Maybe the group chat made me a lazy friend. Despite briefing everyone about my upcoming blackout, nobody took more of an effort to get in touch with me, which I think was telling. My Punkt phone was a refreshing change and always a talking point. The price tag was controversial, but in my opinion, justifiable.
was very nervous about this experiment. I like my smartphone and my social media, I like to communicate, I like to send memes, I like my routine of bedtime (and morning) scrolling and I wasn’t looking forward to swapping this for a Punkt MP 01 and its minimal selection of calls, texts and calendar. At first, it all felt a bit like going on holiday. The soothing bird noise ringtones, the difficulty in contacting people and the free time to read more books. Then, I got stressed at work and without even thinking about it, I transferred my sim back into my iPhone to be able to properly communicate beyond the T9 keypad. I missed having everything in one place too: Connectivity with my car, music, podcasts and camera, but not social media so much. I even made a little checklist of social media apps I would get rid of and contacts I would delete when I got my iPhone back. The big eye opener was using ‘scrolling time’ for something else and as a result, the experiment inspired me to sign up for a crash course in Italian, albeit with a little help from Duolingo…
Jen SWABY Designer, Serial Bed-time Scroller & Punkt Soft-spotter
Will HALBERT Staff Writer, Sausage Dog Owner & Instagram Enthusiast
ith my smartphone offering me an odd collation of over 3,000 contacts spread across (what seems like) as many apps, cutting down to just nine essential phone numbers (thanks to the Light Phone) was an oddly cathartic descent into digital solitude. In truth it was an easy break: The book replaced the handset; quick texts to my partner became lengthy lunchtime calls; and evenings without my feeds made for sounder sleep. On the flipside: I got lost more; awkward silences were even more awkward without the phone to help break up lingering eye contact; and the calibre of conversation was as hit-and-miss as the company in which I found myself. Will I be using my phone less and looking up more from now on? I hope so. There’s something to be said for engaging in your surroundings a little more, hanging onto conversations a little longer, and generally relying on your apps a little less. Will I return to Instagram once I switch back to the smartphone? Of course. How else will I send people unsolicited humble brags about how much I work out, how much coffee I drink, and how cute my dog is?
ruth of the matter is, I didn’t last very long. But not for the reasons I thought. The thought of being offline for two weeks filled me with a bit of excitement but mainly worry (concerning being out of the social loop). Using the Light Phone meant I couldn’t even text, which filled me with even more dread as I am not a phone call person at all and I even started to overthink my phone voice. Due to the Light Phone’s nine contact capacity, initially I thought I was going to have to make some really tough decisions, but embarrassingly, I realised I only had five people in my life that I really spoke to on a regular basis or would be slightly worried about me if they didn’t hear from me in three plus days. This was a refreshing and eye opening realisation. It was far easier than I thought, although I did realise my body had automated reactions to scroll through Instagram whenever I was waiting for something. I definitely felt more engaged on a daily basis, especially when talking to my boyfriend. Unfortunately, my job became practically impossible without a smartphone and it was an eye-opener to see how much my work revolves around having a one.
Lara POYNOR Account Manager, Instapreneur & FOMO Sufferer
Akin to a luxury version of the Nokia 3310 of your youth, the MP 01 is a stylish ‘dumb phone’ from Swiss-based luxury electronics brand, Punkt. Made in small production runs using topgrade components, the MP 01 prioritises talking to people, with text as a backup, hence its emphasis on call quality and a robust keypad for T9 texting. The design, like the price tag (roughly £250) is a good conversation starter. punkt.ch
THE LIGHT PHONE A slim, credit card-sized 2G phone that connects to your smartphone. Solely used for making and receiving calls, the phone has a meagre nine speed-dial spaces and is essentially a phone away from phone. Going for a walk or want some time away? Take The Light Phone with you. lightphone.com The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
fascist c*** in Spain, you’ve got these guys in Poland and Hungary. They’re all symptoms of this bigger malaise. The malaise is we don’t know how all this is going to pan out, so you want someone to tell you what’s going to happen, even if it’s the most ignorant stupid c*** in the world. As long they’ve got a loud mouth, that false certainty is something we always embrace.” On Trump being a supermarket manager… “I always think Donald Trump should’ve been a supermarket manager. He’s got that inglorious, pompous, cock of the roost thing and the beer tits. Supermarket managers have always got lager tits.” On travelling… “If it wasn’t so far away, I’d move to somewhere in South America like Buenos Aires. People work to live there, rather than live to work. We just spunk our lives away doing meaningless shit. Every fucking minute seems to be a carnival out there, everyone’s enjoying something."
Ahead of the Trainspotting gang’s final bow in Dead Men’s Trousers, we sat down with author Irvine Welsh to put the world to rights, discussing Trump, pilates and how going for a coffee in Bogota differs from your local Starbucks words by Davey BRETT
rvine Welsh has had a heavy night. No, take that back. Irvine Welsh has had a heavy week. As we sit down for a coffee (“Can I get one of those coffees that blows your head off? Cheers.”), he recounts the stop-offs and subsequent boozy nights the book tour has taken in so far. Leith, Glasgow and Manchester have all welcomed the launch of Welsh’s latest novel, Dead Men’s Trousers with open arms and a party. You can only imagine how the “cartel leg” of the tour will play out when Welsh heads to Mexico and Colombia. Dead Men’s Trousers, Welsh’s latest, will be the Trainspotting gang’s final bow. Welsh tells me that Renton and co could well appear again separately, but it’s highly unlikely there’ll be another reunion. No cackling together in a grotty old folks’ home, sharing a bump. Having swapped Blighty for warmer pastures long ago, we sought Welsh’s two pence on a changing world and the life of an international man of leisure. EJ On Danny Boyle directing James Bond… “Personally, I feel crap about it because it means he’s going to make more money from directing James Bond than he would from Trainspotting 3. That knocks that off the radar for a bit. No, I am delighted for him and John, it’s a great gig for
On Scottish football… “I’m on Hibs TV all the time. After every game I text Neil Lennon. It’s either ‘brilliant result’ or ‘that referee was a c***’. He’s a fantastic manager and I’m delighted to have him. The last one was the St Johnstone game at home. Before that it was the Hibs Hearts game, the derby. I was sitting there watching it in Miami in the sun with a cocktail maker.”
them. It’s been going for so long, it’s a tired franchise, it’s dead on its feet so if anybody is going to breathe some life into it, they can. If you’d asked twenty years ago whether he was going to direct a Bond movie, he’d have laughed in your face. The older we get, the more tempted we are to say, ah well it’s a nice wee tickle like.” On his new home… “I’ve been itinerant for a year and I seem to have washed up on Miami beach. It’s weird, but great. I’ve got all this divorce, decay, relationship breakdown to deal with and you wake up and the sun’s blasting and you get out on the beach, and you think fuck all that. All the top New York chefs have opened up operations in Miami
now because the weather’s so good for ingredients. The service is shit, but the food is fantastic.” On keeping fit… “I’m much more health and fitness conscious. I get up in the morning and me and my squad of milf friends all do pilates together. I’m there sweating fucking cheese, this broken mangled mess on the machines.” On Trump… “He’s a loud mouth fucking arsehole who’s dumb, but also smart enough to game this declining system, he’s an opportunist in that way. Rampant narcissistic egotist, probably mentally ill in some ways. But again, he’s a symptom. You’ve got Trump, you’ve got Brexit, you’ve got this
“I always think Trump should’ve been a supermarket manager. He’s got that inglorious, pompous, cock of the roost thing and the beer tits."
On US soccer… “I hate it. I have a soft spot for the San Jose Earthquakes, if Quakes are in town I’ll go see them, but I’m of that ilk where I like football to be a horrible industrial laddish pursuit.” On what’s coming up… “Loads of TV is coming up, mainly American though. Also got the Creation Records Alan McGee biopic which is hopefully going to be shooting this Spring or Summer depending what happens with the finances. We’ve got another one we’re casting and financing too, a kind of Northern Soul feminist heist movie set in Leith. With TV and film you always jinx them when you talk about them.”
Dead Men’s Trousers (Jonathan Cape) is out now The Essential Journal | Issue 32
image credit: Ula Soltys
On having a coffee... “If you’re in Bogota and someone asks you for a coffee, it’s a fucking event. Here it would be sitting in some Starbucks and it’s pissing it down with rain outside, with a little bit of crap shortbread and some terrible fucking cover version of some elevator music. They cover these shit songs that nobody even liked in the first place.”
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very actor dreams of the role that will turn them into a bankable star. With the smash success of Black Panther and its international box-office earnings of $1 billion and counting, Chadwick Boseman has not only attained A-list status but he's gained his own personal film franchise. Now he's back in action as T'Challa/Black Panther in AVENGERS: INFINITY WAR, the latest instalment of the Marvel Comics superhero saga. It's a stunning triumph for Boseman, a talented actor who previously played legendary figures such as James Brown in Get On Up (2014), Jackie Robinson in 42 (2013), and U.S. Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall in Marshall (2017). He's also aware that Black Panther is not only a role model and source of pride for black people, but is a watershed moment in Hollywood history by proving that a film driven by a black superhero and largely African-American cast can attract mass audiences across the globe. "It's an inspiration to be able to play someone on the screen in whom you can recognise yourself - even in a superhero movie," Boseman says. "It's also important and enlightening for non-black viewers who can identify with heroes who don't conform to the usual stereotypes and see black people do extraordinary things. Black people regularly watch TV series and films where the majority of characters, at least on a visual level, don't correspond to their world. This (film) not only expands our cultural horizons, it's also a reflection of reality." Boseman's Black Panther gets to see additional action in Avengers: Infinity War as he and his fellow Avengers are thrust into what Marvel is billing as their "deadliest" battle yet. The epic tale pits Captain America (Chris Evans), Thor (Chris Hemsworth), Loki (Tom Hiddleston), Black Widow (Scarlett Johansson), and Iron Man (Robert Downey Jr.) against the all-powerful Thanos ( Josh Brolin) as they attempt to thwart his quest for the Infinity Stones that would allow him to un-
No stranger to playing icons, Chadwick Boseman changed the game with his role as Marvel superhero, Black Panther. Ahead of his latest bout in Avengers: Infinity War, we ask him about his latest iconic role and the inspirations that got him to where he is today words by Miles KENNEY
leash unprecedented devastation on the cosmos. The film will be highlighted by both the appearance of the Guardians of the Galaxy squad and a superhero battle royale that takes place in the Black Panther's high-tech kingdom of Wakanda. Boseman also reveals that Avengers: Infinity War was a chance for him to work even more closely with his Avengers cast matesâ€™ films: "It's always exciting to see all these actors I've admired from watching their work outside of the Marvel universe. This is fun - it's like an All-Star game." EJ essentialjournal: Chad, as King T'Challa, aka the Black Panther, you get to rule over the African kingdom of Wakanda. How does a king handle being part of the Avengers team? boseman: I don't think the Black Panther is afraid or intimidated by any of the Avengers. He's not even trying to find a spot on their team, he's carving out his own space within the Avengers and bringing along all his power and skills in his own way. He can exist without them, if he chooses to. It must be incredibly gratifying for you to reach this kind of level as an actor and get to play a character like Black Panther that is on the verge of becoming an iconic figure? We should have seen a character like this on the screen a long time ago. But even if it took longer than it should to give Black Panther his chance to make his mark, it's still a remarkable achievement.
There's no reason why the character who gets to save the world should always be a white man. We've evolved I hope to a point beyond that. I'm very happy that kids are going to start wearing Black Panther outfits and [for them to] feel drawn to his courage and leadership is important. When you were a kid, was Black Panther one of your favourite comics and superheroes? No, I never really got into him. I was more of a Batman and Spiderman fan. I used to play in the trees behind my grandma's house and pretend to be Spiderman. But my real hero growing up was Muhammad Ali. He still is. I worship Ali and I like wearing T-shirts with his face on them. Do you think Hollywood was too cautious when it came to waiting so long to make a film with a black superhero? It just took the right people, like those in charge at Marvel, to say that the time has come to do something different. It should have happened sooner, but there were always doubters in the industry who argued that you couldn't make money with a movie that has a black hero because not enough people would be interested in seeing that. I'm sure there were a lot of people telling Marvel that the idea wouldn't work but in the end it was great that they had the courage to make the film. It's a significant moment in film history. Do you enjoy being part of a rising
group of black actors who have been achieving stardom in the industry of late? Oh, yeah. Look at TV series like Atlanta and Insecure and Empire. Or look at Letitia Wright and Lupita N'yongo in Black Panther or actors like John Boyega in Pacific Rim: Uprising which is coming up or A Wrinkle in Time. A lot of black actors are getting opportunities that should have happened earlier and this is going to change a lot of perceptions in the industry. It's an interesting time for us to be able to get out of our boxes. You've enjoyed tremendous success playing iconic black figures such as James Brown, Jackie Robinson, the first black baseball player, and Thurgood Marshall, the first black American Supreme Court Justice. How does Black Panther fit into that scheme? What I'm proudest of is that every one of those characters has set a precedent of some sort. Black Panther is the first black superhero in comics and now he's the first black superhero character in the movies. The other characters I've played were real-life heroes, but people can be inspired and enlightened just as much by fictional characters and Black Panther is a leader and icon in his own right.
of dancing, of course. A lot of things could have ended up going wrong. I remember my sister laughing and giving me a hard time when I told her I was going to be playing James Brown. She said: "What, you can't dance at all. How d'you think you're going to pull that off!" When did you first decide on becoming an actor? Actually, I never really wanted to be an actor at all. As a kid I was interested in drawing and designing. I first got my bachelor's degree in theatre at Howard University [in Washington, D.C.] and then I studied at the Digital Film Academy in New York. I started writing after one of my friends who played on my basketball team was shot and killed and my response to that was to write a play about my community. That started me on the path to being a writer and director and it was only later that I went into acting because I realised that if you want to be a director you need to
Which of those characters has been the most difficult for you to play? Oh, James Brown, for sure. There were so many elements to him that were very unique. Everything about him was so distinct â€“ his way of speaking, his singing, and his way
The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Culture understand the work and the process of the actors you're trying to direct. What did your parents think of your wanting to go into the arts? They didn't try to influence me one way or the other. Both me and my brother wound up going into the arts. My older brother had it tougher than me because he decided to become a professional dancer and my parents were not very thrilled about that. But they accepted his choice and my own interest in the arts grew deeper by watching him perform on stage and getting to watch him in rehearsals. My mother just wanted us to work hard and stay out of trouble. She appreciated how much I liked to draw and saw that I was good at it and that I had a strong visual sense. And when I decided to study film and theatre she was very supportive of me. How tough was it for you when you first arrived in Los Angeles trying to make your way up the Hollywood ladder? It's disorienting at the beginning. You feel very isolated because there's this incredibly glamourous world that seems to be beyond your grasp and all the doors are closed to you. It really is a city of broken dreams because only a very few of the people who come to L.A. to work in the movies ever actually get to make it in the business. That's why I consider myself very lucky. Apart from Muhammad Ali, which other people have inspired you? My mother set a great example for me. When I would go to her office after school and I would get to watch her work while I was doing my homework and waiting for her to take me home. I remember how hard she worked all the responsibility she had when there would be emergencies and everybody would start to move very fast and react to each case. I really looked up to her. I also have great respect for my father and some of my teachers who made a great impression on me and taught me so many lessons in life. I've also been inspired in life by people like Nelson Mandela, Martin Luther King, Spike Lee and his movies, and Obama. And as an actor I've looked up to Robert De Niro, Dustin Hoffman, Meryl Streep, and my brothers Denzel Washington, Laurence Fishburne, Samuel Jackson, and Jeffrey Wright. Do you ever feel inspired in turn by playing a great leader of a nation like King T'Challa? It makes you think about your sense of responsibility, what you contribute to the world. In his case, he's faced with so many difficult decisions. There's the key line in the film, "It's hard for a good man to be king." It's complicated to decide whether it's right to do bad things for the sake of preserving justice and peace. Or whether anyone has the right to decide who lives or dies. Playing him, sometimes I felt like the Godfather!
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Including Renton and co’s final bow, the return of a Pulitzer winner and the physics of time made (relatively) easy The Order of Time by Carlo Rovelli
Writing at an all-important intersection between science and philosophy, Carlo Rovelli offers a masterclass in sheer erudition. With his characteristic charm and enthusiasm, the theoretical physicist and best-selling author attempts to unravel the magnitudinous mysteries of time itself. Through an engaging blend of science, art and philosophy, Rovelli charts the radical transformations of our understanding of time in ways that not only make questions of quantum theory manageable, but utterly riveting. WH
words by Davey BRETT & Will HALBERT
The Order of Time (Allen Lane) is out 26 April
Lawrence Wright’s latest is an enjoyable read full of beautifully crafted tangents, all corresponding with his home state of Texas. Part travel writing, part Texan encyclopedia, ‘God Save Texas’ has the ability to steal you away from one topic (space, air-conditioning, oil) and then plant you squarely at the foot of another (the Astrodome, Houston’s surprisingly liberal attitudes, the world’s biggest minimart). With a sprinkling of humour, experience and autobiographical detail, you soon realise why Wright’s talents previously landed him a Pulitzer, but also why Texas is such a crucial factor in the future of America. DB
God Save Texas, A Journey into the Future of America by Lawrence Wright
God Save Texas (Allen Lane) is out 26 April
President and founder of the Eurasia Group, Ian Bremmer offers a razor-sharp but decidedly measured account of the growing tensions arising from globalisation. From the rapid rise of populism to the perceptively knee-jerk nationalist response to global crises, Bremmer deftly highlights a rampant and increasingly aggressive rejection of the democratic, global and cosmopolitan trends that defined the late 20th century. A sobering read, his findings are far from pretty. But Bremmer isn’t interested in merely wallowing in a world at breaking point, he’s interested in finding a way to fix it. WH
Us vs. Them, The Failure of Globalism by Ian Bremmer
Us vs. Them (Portfolio Penguin) is out 26 April
Dead Men’s Trousers by Irvine Welsh
There he is, Mark Renton, minding his own business on a flight (he’s finally made it, managing DJs for a living), waiting for an ambien to kick in when all of a sudden, who pops up in front of him? Begbie. What can possibly go wrong from thereon? A lot, as we all know. Welsh’s latest sees the Trainspotting gang take their final bow, mixing redemption and atonement for the characters, which away from the films, haven’t properly ran together since the original novel. Expect trademark Scottish wit, a distressing operation and drugs, obviously. DB Dead Men’s Trousers (Jonathan Cape) is out now
Measure What Matters by John Doerr
Measure What Matters sees legendary venture capitalist and popular TED talker John Doerr discuss his revolutionary approach to explosive business growth. By harnessing the powers of Objectives and Key Drivers (or OKRs), Doerr has helped entrepreneurial heavy hitters such as Google and Amazon to boost their productivity, efficiency and accountability. Measure What Matters not only features testimonials from the likes of Larry Page, Bill Gates and Sheryl Sandberg, but also offers invaluable advice on how to emulate the same success. WH Measure What Matters (Portfolio Penguin) is out 26 April The Essential Journal | Issue 32
The Iain Hoskins Column:
Social Media (It's Good) Has our love affair with social media finally died? I wonder if we’ll look back at March 2018 as ground zero - the month when we were finally told that Father Christmas wasn’t real; the velvet curtain pulled back to reveal the grim reality of a two-bit magician creating magic with smoke and mirrors
words by Iain HOSKINS illustration by Jennifer SWABY
acebook’s CEO, Mark Zuckerberg in the dock giving his congressional testimony certainly feels like a significant chapter of the past decade’s social media utopian dream. Like all relationships, the day that trust has been irrevocably broken often marks the end or at least the beginning of the end. Our social media footprint and all the information that goes with- it, is essentially a data-mine and the mea culpa from Zuckerberg is a watershed moment on how our personal information was misused. One of the most interesting things about the whole Cambridge Analytica Facebook scandal was seeing how little the authorities both in the UK and USA understood about how social media works. An industry has exploded over the past decade, completely repositioning modern life and how we communicate with each other. The sophistication of cookies and targeted algorithms has revolutionised advertising. Conventional marketing worked on the basis of shouting loud and often, across as many mediums as possible and dividing people into socio-economic groups in the hope that some of the messages stick. It’s been replaced by a very specific targeted level of data previously unavailable and unimaginable to advertisers. Privacy and security with our data is generally a given and in the main we don’t really care if advertisers know that we prefer apples to oranges, Aretha Franklin to Beyoncé, Jaguar to Bentley. And while we happily fill in online quizzes and personality tests, we now know that everything we like, share and retweet is ultimately forming a profile of ourselves. Also building a full picture of what type of person we are, our likes, dislikes and crucially as part of the Cambridge Analytica scandal, our voting intentions. Affronted by this, last month saw a grassroots meme campaign to bin off Facebook, ironically on Facebook. But how easy is it to drop a social media account? It’s so intertwined with our whole lives and daily routine, it’s a reaction as instinctive as eating and breathing. For me, as a business owner (bars and bistros), it is unthinkable that I could have a social media blackout for a week, a day or even an hour. It’s where I find out news, information and what people are saying. We have various staff groups across Facebook and WhatsApp that are essential for sharing information and ideas. Removing social media from our lives is possible, but for most of us, it’s as extreme as moving to a desert island. But for all the negativity surrounding social media,
"Removing social media from our lives is possible, but for most of us, it’s as extreme as moving to a desert island" Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
which is pretty much all we hear, these big bad evil forces stealing our data, unwittingly getting us to vote for Brexit and Trump, I think we need to remind ourselves of the amazing things that social media has brought us. The connections and the communities that it’s brought back together, school friends, first loves and the people you partied with in Ibiza 20 years ago. This social media footprint now means that you never really lose touch with people, those electronic connections keep you bound together for as long as you keep your account active. It also lifts the lid of the six degrees of separation theory as we realise through a series of interconnections via our friends that pretty much everyone is connected through their Facebook profile. As a business owner, I’ve seen first-hand small businesses that were made, and saved, by social media from Facebook via Twitter and particularly, in the hospitality industry, Instagram. The criticism of the data harvested, stored and shared by Facebook is always about the big corporations muscling in on a new way to flog us the same stuff again. But the value of this data is of huge benefit to independent micro-business who can find their niche through specific data-targeting that was previously unavailable and financially unreachable. If what the last few months has shown us, it’s that we need to approach this era now with eyes wide open. How much you choose or decide to live your life through social media is up to you, but as a free service reliant on advertising your data is your subscription. Government, however, has to catch up. Facebook which also owns Instagram and Whatsapp is a company so large, that it’s a powerful political entity, a social utility and a communications structure. How the big players deal with the challenges the data scandal has thrown up will shape our relationship with social media forever. EJ 61
Column Gents, we need to talk about:
Train Etiquette In the tenth instalment of our regular column – in which we use our pondering skills to delve deep into clichés, stereotypes, and seemingly unimportant male-orientated issues – we consider the unspoken rules of the crappy landbased version of flying
words by Davey BRETT illustration by Thomas SUMNER
orry, but i’m afraid you’re sat in my seat. It might not be those exact words, but it’s usually something similar. The age old motto of getting on trains, so commonly used that it might as well be National Rail’s slogan. There’s something inherently British about apologising for somebody else being in the wrong, isn’t there? And you know who’s the worst for sitting in the wrong seat, don’t you? Old people. Ironically, the people who are most likely to have a seat reservation on a train. I used to love trains. Everything about them. The silent film that plays out the window, the seats, the power plugs, the speed, the sounds, the smells, the mechanics of them, the look of them, the stations, the design of the tickets, the feeling of going where cars can’t, the excitement of going on an extended journey, the chance to sit and read. I loved it all, but I’m starting to resent them. The magic is waning. I am falling out of love with trains. Recently, I have been on a lot of train journeys. Long and short, far and wide. I have made some notes and I want to share them with you, so that you can spread the word of train etiquette across the generations to make my next journey a little easier. You don’t have to follow them religiously and of course, some of them are up for debate, but I would hope with a little contemplation you would agree they are the be all and end all. We will start with noise. Few things on trains are more sacred than the quiet carriage. Let’s face it, it’s the poor man’s first class. If you are in this carriage, convention dictates that for the entire journey, you remain quiet. That means
"Now, I never used to be a train drinker, but due to an increasingly impressive selection of craft cans in station branches of M&S (Northern Monk, Adnams, Kona) and the need for a liquid painkiller to dull the pain in the arse that getting on trains is quickly becoming, I have turned to the drink" 62
no shouting, no singing, no excitable laughing and no Trigger Happy TV-esque phone calls. If it were up to me, a member of the British Transport Police would be stationed in this carriage at all times maintaining an agreeable level of silence. Hopefully after reading this column, they’ll see the error of their ways. Now, I never used to be a train drinker, but due to an increasingly impressive selection of craft cans in station branches of M&S (Northern Monk, Adnams, Kona) and the need for a liquid painkiller to dull the pain in the arse that getting on trains is quickly becoming, I have turned to the drink. Drinking quietly, without spilling and making an effort to pass wind in either the toilet or corridor part of the train and keeping yourself to yourself is okay. Drinking in large packs, chanting, harassing others, scaring women and children and destroying one of maybe three max onboard toilets is not. (I hope your team loses and your away tickets are counterfeit and made of biscuit.) How crap are delays, eh? But take solace fellow traveller. There’s compensation in the offing, (relative to how late you are) and let’s face it, most delays are caused by people stealing metal, passengers fannying around, lack of investment and or people being injured or dying. So when faced with a delay, stay calm. If need be, respectfully crack open a can, return to your book or stretch your legs. Don’t, and I repeat don’t, begin complaining to the staff. Sadly, I was recently on a train that hit and killed a person and the response from fellow passengers was frankly disturbing. “Can’t they just replace the driver?” “Is there not a spare driver on board?” “Can’t we just get off the train here in the middle of nowhere and walk to the nearest station?” In times of life and death, truthfully, your journey means nothing. On a lighter note, put your luggage on the racks, saviour your Young Person’s Railcard and rally your local MP to roll out the 26 - 30 version nationwide. Don’t brag about being in first class because a lamp and leg room is how it should be anyway. Put your rubbish in the bin, let people off before getting on and be polite, but firm. Most of all, don’t apologise for somebody else sitting in your seat. It’s yours. EJ The Essential Journal | Issue 32
Issue 32 | The Essential Journal
Back to basics, sort of. That was the rough theme for this issue. We’ve sat, mouths agape, watching Facebook meddle with democracy, Trump de...
Published on Apr 17, 2018
Back to basics, sort of. That was the rough theme for this issue. We’ve sat, mouths agape, watching Facebook meddle with democracy, Trump de...