SEE KUMARI DEVI A kumari is a young pre-pubescent girl believed by Newar Buddhists to be the embodiment of the supreme female deity Vajradevi, a Buddha. The cult of the Kumari dates back to the Middle Ages. Whilst there are about 10 kumaris in Nepal, Kathmandu's Kumari Devi (royal goddess) is the most important, and the Kumari Ghar on Kathmandu Durbar Square is where she lives. Built in 1757, the temple largely escaped earthquake damage, and is known for its magnificent carvings as well as its divine resident. Every afternoon, the Living Goddess appears for a few seconds in a first-floor window. No photos are allowed but she is said to answer devotees' questions by the expressions on her face! BOUDHANATH STUPA The largest stupa in Nepal and the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet, Boudhanath is the center of Tibetan culture in Kathmandu and rich in Buddhist symbolism. Probably built in the 14th century after the Mughal invasions, the stupa is located in the town of Boudha, on the eastern outskirts of Kathmandu, literally 5 minutes-walk from the Hyatt hotel. Boudhanath is topped with a square tower bearing the omnipresent Buddha eyes on all four sides. Prayer flags tied to the stupa flutter in the wind, carrying mantras and prayers heavenward. Surrounding Boudhanath are streets and narrow alleys lined with colourful homes, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and street vendors.
BOUDHANATH STUPA
GARDEN OF DREAMS A small, unremarkable sign in Thamel marks the entrance to this beautiful, historic neo-classical garden, which was laid out in the 1920s by the late Field Marshal Kaiser Shumsher Rana. Once inside and behind the garden’s thick walls, there is no hint whatsoever of the madness happening outside, making Garden of Dreams an oasis of serenity in the heart of the hectic city. People lounge on the grass carpeting the steps of the semi-circular Greek-style amphitheatre and chat in hushed tones. Fountains burble in the background. First time visitors investigate the space, wander around the six impressive pavilions and find hidden courtyards. Well worth a visit if only to take a break. www.gardenofdreams.org
72 The Cultured Traveller Oct-Nov 2017
KUMARI DEVI