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No. 70, October 2015

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

Drink Up!


Keep the Momentum Going! The Building on Excellence Capital Campaign is at $72 MILLION AND COUNTING! The excellence of the CIA’s academic programs and the accomplishments of our

the egg in the new student commons

•• New residence lodges and renovations to existing

alumni have earned us global prominence. Donations allow us to invest in the most

residence halls, a future green space, and a student

talented faculty and the finest facilities, pursue world-class research, and attract

sustainable garden.

the most capable students.

At 48,000+, alumni are the lifeblood of The Culinary

Some of the latest gifts include:

Institute of America. Please give! Join your alma

•• Support for construction and equipment needed for the new Student Commons

mater in connecting your passion for excellence with

at the Hyde Park campus from Jones Dairy Farm, ITW Food Equipment Group, the Banfi Vintners Foundation, Dole Packaged Foods, Nestlé Waters North

a commitment to what really matters. Make a gift today by calling 845-905-4275

America, the Statler Foundation, and Ventura Foods; as well as the multiple

or visiting ciagiving.org.

corporate and individual gifts in honor of Daniel Boulud’s 60th birthday

With gratitude,

$100 MILLION

•• Scholarship funding from the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Foundation 72 MILLION

and the Dyson Foundation

•• Donations for scholarships and new facilities totaling $85,000 from CIA faculty and staff Thanks to the financial support of donors like you, the new Student Commons is now open! And there is even more in the works:

•• A 120,000-square-foot wing of Roth Hall on the Hyde Park campus to provide a new home for the culinary science curriculum, currently housed on the ground floor of the Colavita Center for Italian Food and Wine.

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50 MILLION

Dr. Victor A. L. Gielisse, CMC Vice President—Advancement and Business Development

1 MILLION


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26

8

Beer is Hot Putting the “craft� in beer

10 Say Yes to Beverage Choices

Non-alcoholic beverages get their due

16 Welcome to The Egg

Fun, Friends, Food, and Fitness

26 Kopf Wine Trip Changing Lives

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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10

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29

Beverages Cocktails: What’s Trending | Beyond the Well-Known: Discovering Emerging Wine Regions | Modern-Day Sommelier

14 Across the Plaza

Tidbits | Following the Presidential Trail | Cocktail Chart

20 Education for Life

The Secret Life of Chefs | Women in Foodservice

28 Gifts at Work

Dole Packaged Foods | The Banfi Vintners Foundation Why Give? | Giving’s Impact | Own a Piece of Lou’s Wall!

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Notice of Nondiscrimination: The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following Civil Rights Compliance Officers at the CIA have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policies: Title IX and Age Discrimination: Joe Morano, HR Director—Faculty Relations 845-451-1314, j_morano@culinary.edu, Office—Roth Hall, Room S-324 Section 504/ADA: Maura A. King, Director—Compliance 845-451-1429, m_king@culinary.edu, Office—Roth Hall, Room S-351 Mailing address: The Culinary Institute of America, 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit www.ciachef.edu/non-discrimination-statement.


mise en place® No. 70, October 2015 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor

When I went to college in the Midwest, the

Leslie Jennings, Designer

drinking age was 18. I remember walking down the hill from campus with friends to a dark and ominous bar where I drank Grasshoppers—a cloying mix of crème de cacao, crème de

Contributing Writers Elly Erickson

Waldy Malouf ’75

Christie Dufault

Carlton McCoy ’06

Gail Jones

Douglass Miller ’89

menthe, and yes, cream! It was the only mixed drink I really knew by name. I felt sophisticated when the bartender suggested I try a White Russian. At least it had real grown-up stuff in it like vodka and coffee liqueur. Of course, it also had cream.

Editorial Board

Beer was never my thing, and wines like

Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Lynne Eddy

Dr. Victor Gielisse Vice President— Advancement and Business Development

Eric Jenkins ’13

up not being much of a drinker in college—and can you blame me?

Dr. Chris Loss ’93

I went on to live through the sparkling era of Lancers and Mateus, the dry and

Douglass Miller ’89

fruity period of Italian imports like Bolla Soave, and the easily accessible but

Brad Barnes ’87

Ted Russin

more sophisticated flavors of France’s Pinot Gris and Merlot.

Kate Cavotti

Denise Zanchelli

But times change. A number of years ago I pried open the mixed drink door

John Fischer ’88

Sue Cussen

Boone’s Farm Apple Wine and Blue Nun, which were passed around at parties, only gave me a fuzzy tongue and a vague headache in the morning. So I ended

one more time when I was offered a gin and tonic made with Tanqueray and lime. I discovered a world beyond the Grasshopper. Recently, I was at a bar and shared a flight of craft beers for the very first time since I’d turned my nose up

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students. Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2015 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved. Photography: Phil Mansfield and Annie Watt

at that can of Bud way back when. What a surprise. Beer today is complex and there are now so many styles and flavor profiles that I’m able to pick and choose to find my favorite. Beverages have finally gotten their due. They are treated with the same respect as food. And though wine aficionados have been enjoying this status for some time, it is only recently that beer and cocktails have truly come into their own. We’re taking a look at all beverages in this issue. And we’ve even thrown in a few recipes from our chefs to offer inspiration. Enjoy this edition of mise en place, and if you have a moment, take a tour of our beverage garden with Professor Doug Miller, at https://youtu.be/ R6LO3V6eplg or by using this QR code. Always remember to read and drive responsibly! Nancy Cocola Editor n_cocola@culinary.edu

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Cocktails What’s Trending By Douglass Miller ’89

For high-volume bars, cocktails on tap can also be beneficial. Since the

What’s old is new again, especially in the world of cocktails. Bottling

cocktail is pre-made and chilled, all the bartender has to do is pour it

cocktails, cocktails on tap, using vinegar in drinks, aging cocktails,

into the glass.

and utilizing beer in cocktails are trending in the beverage world right

Tip: Again, you might want to add water to your recipe and taste-test

now. Despite the fact that all of these techniques have been around for

it before serving. You can have the cocktail with or without carbon-

more than 100 years, using one or more of them can boost your bever-

ation; it all depends on how you set up the cocktail tap system and the

age program.

gas you use.

Message in a Bottle

The Zing of Vinegar

From the classic Negroni to an

The vinegar-based cocktail is mak-

updated Manhattan, bars are bot-

ing a comeback. A cocktail with

tling a wide range of cocktails these

vinegar in it—otherwise called a

days. Bottled cocktails can be a great

shrub—was popular during Colonial

addition to several areas in a bever-

times in the U.S. Many balk at the

age program. For example, at their

idea of adding vinegar to a cocktail,

wedding, a bride and groom can have

but it offers a different dimension to

their own signature bottled cock-

the drink. Vinegar’s acid balances

tail. The bottles can be labeled and

out the sweetness of other ingredi-

personalized with date and pictures.

ents—think tomato-based barbecue

Bottled cocktails can also be a fun,

sauce.

practical way of serving cocktails at an off-site catering event. The cock-

professor douglass miller mixing drinks

tails can be bottled and pre-chilled

cocktail, you want an acid component that is not fruit-based. Malt,

before the event. At the site, the staff just open and serve the drink still

balsamic, and rice wine vinegar can all be utilized in a cocktail. And

in the bottle.

unlike cocktails acidulated with citrus, vinegar-based drinks remain

Tip: If you are going to bottle a cocktail, you will most likely need to

clear after being shaken, depending on the type of vinegar you use.

add water to the recipe. The volume in a well-shaken or stirred cocktail is about 20% melted ice water. Since you are serving the cocktail

Barrel Aging

right out of the bottle, you need to account for that loss of icy water.

Aging cocktails in barrels has also become part of the cocktail reper-

This is why you want to carefully test your recipes before you do a mass bottling. If you want to bottle a cocktail with carbonation, make sure all of the ingredients are very well-chilled, about 32° F. This helps the liquid retain the carbonation.

toire. Even though it was popularized several years ago, it can still be a great part of a beverage program. You could pre-make a Manhattan, age it, and then serve it right out of the barrel. Barrel aging can give your drink richness and vanilla-like notes. New barrels will give you

Tapping into Flavor

more hints from the wood than used barrels will. Used barrels will

Another trend that has practical use for many different facets of the

Tip: If you are going to age cocktails in barrels, purchase smaller

hospitality industry is cocktails on tap. A cocktail can be measured

barrels that are more manageable to use. You can find small barrels at

and poured into a five-gallon keg. The cocktail can then be chilled and

some local distilleries. If you cannot find one, there are several compa-

served using a beer-style tap. Cocktails on tap allow you, the operator,

nies that sell them online.

to control the alcohol content and create a consistent cocktail every time. Just like those that are bottled, cocktails on tap are also great for off-site catering. Five-gallon kegs can be pre-filled with a signature cocktail, chilled overnight, and delivered to the site. This spares you the hassle of bringing several different types of alcohol to the event.

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Tip: Sometimes when creating a

impart the flavor of whatever was previously aged in that barrel.

Sous Vide—Not Just For Food If you want to create a modernized version of a barrel-aged cocktail, try sous vide. For example, simply put together the ingredients for a classic Manhattan, add a couple of smoked oak cubes, and place ev-

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erything into a Mason jar. Seal the jar, place it in a water bath at 165º F, and let the jars sit in the water bath for 24 hours. Chill and serve.

Tip: Sous-vide machines make it easy to add botanicals and fruit to a drink. Place ingredients in a sealed bag and let them sit in the water bath for 24–48 hours. It is a great way to combine different flavors.

Drinks in 3D Something totally new in the cocktail arena is the use of 3D printing in a cocktail program. At the CIA, we have a 3D printer that is being used to create a wide range of items. A 3D printer has the ability to create vessels out of sugar, sugar-based stir sticks, or garnishes.

Beer Here

Tip: The use of 3D printers in the kitchen is relatively new, but will

As mentioned in the “Beer is Hot” article on page 8, craft beer is on

based cocktail to a whole new level using the 3D printer.

everyone’s lips right now. So, why not create a great beer cocktail? A

have a profound impact on the industry. Consider taking a chocolate-

white beer, saison, or even a stout can make wonderful cocktails. Beer

As we often say, “everything old is new again.” And, for the most part,

adds carbonation and flavor to a cocktail. Also, the beer can add a

that is true. Regardless of whether it is new or not, you must create a

little bitterness to a drink to balance out the sweetness. Beer cocktails

beverage program that fits your operation. Only you can tell if one of

have been served in the U.S. for a very long time and they are starting

these trending techniques will work for you.

their comeback now.

Douglass Miller ’89 is professor of hospitality and service management

Tip: Try using beer instead of soda water in a cocktail. It can give

at the CIA.

your some effervescence and a new flavor profile.

Monticello (an homage to Thomas Jefferson) 2 ounces Rye Whiskey 1 ounce Cherry Heering liqueur ½ ounce 10-year aged balsamic vinegar Dash of Fee Brothers Black Walnut Bitters Combine all of the ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake for 20 seconds. Strain the contents into a cocktail glass. Garnish the drink with a maraschino cherry or orange peel twist.

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Beer is Hot 8

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By Douglass Miller ’89

alcohol by volume (abv). The term “session” refers to the lower

The number of beer companies has skyrocketed in the U.S. over the

alcohol content.

last several years, and today, most people live within 50 miles of a brewery. With more than 15,000 different beers being produced in the

Education for the Future

U.S. alone, the beer industry is more diverse than ever and restaurants

With the increase of beer selections, beer and food pairings are also

are increasing the size of their beer lists with unique, local craft

trending. Adam Dulye ’97 is executive chef for CraftBeer.com and

beer. Interestingly enough, overall beer sales have not significantly

the Brewers Association—the not-for-profit trade association dedicated

increased in the last several years. But, craft beer sales are up, IPAs

to small and independent American craft brewers. Adam will use his

remain hot, and the CIA is helping to increase the role beer plays in

culinary background to work with restaurateurs all over the country

restaurants across the country.

to successfully pair beer with food. To educate the newest culinarians,

According to the Brewers Association, overall beer sales in 2014 increased only 0.5% to 197,124,407 barrels. And while Americans consumed 48.8 billion pints of beer in 2014, beer consumption in the U.S. over the last couple of years has been virtually flat. People assume that since the selection of available beer has increased, so has consumption. Not so. What has shifted is the type of beer people are drinking. In 2014, craft beer sales increased 17.6% and imported beer increased by 6.9%. Craft beer now makes up 11% of the total share of beer consumed. That is up from 7% a few years ago. On the other hand, large company sales have been sluggish. AnheuserBusch InBev reported that volume of their beer consumed in the U.S. declined by 1.5% at the end of the 2014 fiscal year. AB InBev still accounts for about 48% of the beer consumed in the U.S., but it has been acquiring several craft breweries, including Goose Island out of Chicago, IL; Blue Point Brewing Company in Patchogue, NY; 10 Barrel Brewing in Portland, OR; and Elysian in Seattle, WA.

Adam, along with the Brewers Association’s craft beer program director Julia Herz, created and published the CraftBeer.com Beer and Food Course. The curriculum is free and is designed to educate future chefs, servers, and hospitality professionals.

Craft Beer at the CIA As of spring 2015, there are more than 3,500 brewing operations in the U.S. That includes breweries and brew pubs. According to the Brewers Association, there are another 1,700 breweries already in the planning, building, or permitting stages. The CIA is one of them. The CIA, with its partner Brooklyn Brewery, has built The Brooklyn Brewery at the CIA, which is housed in the new Student Commons. The partnership with Brooklyn Brewery gives the CIA access to guidance from one of the largest breweries in the U.S. Many people from Brooklyn Brewery are offering support for this new venture. Brewmaster Garrett Oliver, who is one of the most respected beer professionals in the industry, is giving educational and production

So You Want to Be a Craft Brewer

support to the project. And both CEO Eric Ottaway and President

The rules for calling your product a craft beer are governed by the

In September, the semester-long Art and Science of Brewing started.

Brewers Association, a marketing and educational industry group. To

In this bachelor’s degree hands-on class, students will learn all aspects

be a craft brewer you have to meet a number of criteria:

of the brewery and its operations. The brewery has a head brewer

• The brewery must produce fewer than 6 million barrels per year.

who is overseeing the production of the beers and works with the

• Another beverage company—not including another craft brewer—can own no more than 25% of the brewery. • The majority of the beer must use traditional or innovative brewing ingredients.

Popular Tastes

Robin Ottaway have thrown their weight behind it as well.

students by sharing his knowledge of brewing. The students will be creating two year-round beers available for sale in all of the campus restaurants and at the Student Commons. Throughout the year, there will be seasonal beer offerings. In addition, the brewery will make special beer for different events held on campus. Not only are the students working in the brewery, they are also spending time in the classroom getting an understanding of brewing

IPAs continue to be very popular with consumers, making up one-

science. Another beer appreciation class explores the history, culture,

third of the craft beers consumed. Because of the popularity of IPAs,

and beer styles from around the world. The students do sensory

brewers have come up with a number of subcategories of the brew,

evaluation of more than 60 beers from three different continents.

including Black IPA, West Coast IPA, East Coast IPA, Rye IPA, Red

They also learn about the production of sake and hard cider.

IPA, White IPA, Imperial IPA and, the newest one, Session IPA.

Beer is hot. And at the CIA we are offering our students the

Because many IPAs are very hoppy and high in alcohol content,

opportunity to learn about this remarkable and adaptable beverage

breweries are now starting to create sessional IPAs that are neither

while riding the refreshing wave of knowledge.

hoppy nor as high in alcohol content. Session IPA is usually below 5%

Douglass Miller ’89 is professor of hospitality and service management at the CIA.

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Say Yes to Beverage Choices By Waldy Malouf ’75 At last, there is an alternative to soda or iced tea that satisfies the guest in search of a sophisticated, non-alcoholic beverage; heightens the dining experience; and increases your lunch or dinner check. With the danger associated with drinking and driving at the forefront of everyone’s minds, you will almost always find a designated driver in the crowd. In addition, the

Lavender Lemonade

(From American Bounty at our New York campus) 1 ounce lavender simple syrup (see recipe) 1 ounce fresh orange juice 1 ounce fresh lemon juice

nation’s focus on health and wellness means that for many, the days of indiscriminate

2 ounces club soda or seltzer

drinking are a thing of the past. Add to the mix the growing demand by consumers

Lemon wheels and lavender sprig for garnish

for flavor, authenticity, and value in every part of the dining experience, and you

Combine lavender simple syrup, orange juice, and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a highball glass filled with ice. Top off with club soda or seltzer and garnish with lemon wheel and fresh lavender sprig.

have a whole new category of beverages emerging in full force. At the CIA, we’ve introduced a non-alcoholic beverage program across all our campuses. We recognize that everyone enters a restaurant expecting to enjoy the full dining experience, complete with beverage pairing. Those who opt not to have

Lavender Simple Syrup

an alcoholic drink deserve no less than their alcohol-imbibing companions. These are

8 ounces granulated sugar

not just “mocktails”—classic cocktails minus the alcohol—they are drinks conceived to stand on their own. Though we have had opportunities for students to present non-alcoholic beverages to patrons in the past— especially when The Bocuse Restaurant first opened—it wasn’t until we opened our pop-up restaurant, Pangea, that non-alcoholic beverages received the full measure of our attention. For the chefs and front-of-house teams, pairing non-alcoholic beverages with the unique flavors and inventive dishes created at Pangea was an exciting challenge. Our adult patrons were excited too, and struck up animated conversations with student

8 ounces water 3 ounces dried lavender Combine ingredients in a pot over low heat. Simmer for 20 minutes. Strain. Store in covered container in refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Pomegranate Ginger Fizz

servers about sourcing local, seasonal ingredients and flavor combinations. Our

(From the Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant at our California campus)

underage patrons were delighted that their drink choices had expanded beyond iced

Sugar in the Raw

tea and soda to a more sophisticated and delicious alternative. We thought we’d share a few of our recipes with you to enjoy in your establishments or with friends at home.

Waldy Malouf is senior director, food & beverage operations for the CIA.

10 mint leaves 1 ounce fresh lime juice 1.5 ounces ginger simple syrup (see recipe) 4 ounces pomegranate juice Club soda or seltzer

Minted Mango Spritz

(From Nao at our Texas campus) 3 springs of mint (2 to muddle, 1 for garnish) 1 teaspoon superfine sugar 2 ounces mango purée

In a cocktail shaker, muddle mint leaves with lime juice and ginger simple syrup. Add pomegranate juice and ice, shake. Strain into prepared Collins glass. Top off with club soda or seltzer.

6 ounces club soda or seltzer

Ginger Simple Syrup

1 slice mango for garnish

6 ounces granulated sugar

In a cocktail shaker, muddle the fresh mint with the sugar. Add lime juice, mango purée, and club soda or seltzer. Mix well. Strain into a 12-ounce highball glass with crushed ice. Garnish with a slice of mango and mint spring.

6 ounces water

1 ounce fresh lime juice

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Prepare glass: To coat the rim of a glass, spread or mound sugar on a small plate or tray. Moisten the rim of a glass with water. Lay the glass on its side so that the rim is touching the sugar garnish and rotate or roll the glass so that the entire rim is coated.

2 tablespoons grated ginger Combine ingredients in pot over low heat. Simmer for 20 minutes. Strain. Store in covered container in refrigerator for up to two weeks.

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Beyond the Well-Known:

Discovering Emerging Wine Regions By Christie Dufault

the dry Rieslings and Gewürztraminers from the Seneca Lake

Wine has been produced for hundreds of years, so we tend to associate

appellation and reds that are, increasingly, examples of beautifully

it with tradition. We are familiar with historical wine-growing

balanced Pinot Noirs.

countries and maintain a basic sense of the geography of the more

An ancient country like Greece, where wine is a daily primary

well-known appellations throughout the world. Still, many of us who

beverage for every adult inhabitant, may not appear to possess

love wine and cherish its diversity keep our eyes, ears, and mouths

an emerging wine scene, but thanks to improved importation and

open in the hopes of making delicious discoveries.

distribution, many of the wines of Greece are new to American

One example of an exciting “new” wine region is British Columbia

consumers. Particularly exciting are the white wines made from the

(BC), Canada. Located in the Pacific Northwest, British Columbia offers a diverse climate where compelling vinifera grapes grow well. Although there are five wine sub-regions in BC, the stunningly beautiful Okanagan Valley is considered the province’s premier wine

indigenous grape assyrtiko on the island of Santorini. Grown in the windswept volcanic soils on the crescent-shaped island, the wines are incredibly aromatic and complex on the palate. The range of styles is diverse and therefore offers myriad food and wine pairing

appellation. There are magnificent Riesling and Pinot Gris vineyards

applications.

in the cooler areas and flavorful Merlots and other reds from the

Similarly, France is highly associated with wine and considered

warmer sites. These wines can be difficult to find in the U.S., so a trip

a benchmark for many of the classics. Yet there is a little-known

to BC offers the enticement of visiting more than 250 wineries and

region in the foothills of the Rhône-Alpes called the Savoie where

getting to know friendly Canadian hosts.

the winemakers are producing some excellent wines. Previously

Also in the new wine world, New York’s Finger Lakes region is a

considered “après-ski” wine, the local white varieties of jacquère and

wine area to seek out. With some of the most geologically diverse soil in the world and a famously cool climate, the region has actually been producing exceptional wines for decades; it is just that they’ve mostly

altesse are producing stunning wines of balanced fruit and acidity, and the world is taking notice. The distinctly alpine climate also produces an original red called Mondeuse, which is more medium-bodied and is

been consumed locally. But thanks to positive press and restaurants

delicious served with a slight chill.

from New York City to San Francisco, these great wines are finally

Chile is a large wine-producing country and many of its larger

getting the exposure and recognition they deserve. Standouts include

growing areas dominate the market. But today, some of Chile’s lesserknown coastal regions are making waves. In the north, the Elqui and Limari Valleys are producing some of the globe’s finest carmenère, a red grape transplanted from Europe. Further south in the San Antonio and Itata Valleys, there are remarkable examples of Syrah and Carignan wines, respectively. Seeking out these wines will result in flavorful bold reds of depth and harmony. With so many wines in the world and new vintages appearing every year, the pleasures of wine should be about the enjoyment and the journey…and journeys are full of discoveries. Christie Dufault is associate professor of

Vineyards by Osoyoos, British Columbia, Canada

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wine and beverage studies at the CIA at Greystone.

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Modern-Day Sommelier By Carlton McCoy ’06 In the United States, the current role of sommelier has a very short history. Initially, the sommelier in the U.S. was simply the most skilled server who may also have had a passing interest in wine. Actually, most of the sommeliers who we look up to today as the pillars of the industry got their start that way. I know I did! Until fairly recently, it was the sommelier’s role to manage what were very classic wine lists that included a good selection from a very few familiar regions. The list might feature wines from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, The Rhône Valley, Porto, California, and maybe a few from Germany and the Loire, but that’s about it. In addition to knowing something about these wines, the sommelier would do double duty by either taking a station in the dining room or playing the role of maître d’hôtel. In most cases, there simply wasn’t enough demand for a skilled wine professional to warrant the additional investment in staff for a small restaurant. There were a few exceptions, but this was the norm. As more varieties of wine entered the marketplace from different regions of the world, the American people increased their interest and taste for it. The more they were educated about wine, the more they spent on it in restaurants. For the first time, restaurant owners realized they could dramatically increase wine sales with the addition of a floor sommelier. These days sommeliers are expected to be well-versed on wine from every region of the world and be able to discuss multiple producers! This obviously requires a person who is fully committed to the wine program. The modern-day sommelier is not just responsible for his or her own knowledge, but that of the staff as well. At The Little Nell in Aspen, CO, where I am sommelier, we have a very regimented training program. Every Thursday we train on a different wine-producing region. I prepare a one-page write-up focused on wines to taste from a single region and then finish the training with an exam. Each member of the service staff must complete these wine exams and demonstrate a real understanding before they can even touch the service floor. Beyond the academic understanding of wine, I believe that today’s sommelier must be more well traveled and more knowledgeable about the esoteric wine regions in the world. The modern-day sommelier must also play the role of accountant. With the amount of inventory usually held by good wine programs and the extremely important margins they represent, sommeliers must always have a complete grasp of cost of goods sold and inventory controls. Members of the sommelier community are always thinking of interesting ways to engage and delight our guests. And beyond the study of wine, this is the part that is most exciting for me. Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy is wine director at The Little Nell in Aspen, CO.

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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sommelier skill testing, aromatics and wine, regional wine studies, food and wine pairings, the importance of great hospitality, and winemaker and sommelier relationships. The presenters included 15 Master Sommeliers, professional wine educators, wine and beverage directors, and other experts in the beverage and hospitality fields. Our own Rajat Parr 96, Jason Smith ’98, Carlton McCoy ’06, and Amy Racine ’10 presented or participated in panel discussions. The second annual Sommelier Summit is scheduled for April 24–26, 2016. Mark your calendars!

fellows dine at maneet chauhan’s (center) restaurant

Gift-in-Kind The CIA is deeply grateful to all our

Fellows Chill in Music City— Nashville

city, ate at Hattie B’s for lunch, and enjoyed

corporate donors of products or equipment.

dinner prepared by Deb Paquette ’78, chef/

The list below represents those who either

owner at Etch. The weekend concluded with

started or renewed their gift-in-kind

Some 30 members of the CIA’s Society

a country music show and VIP backstage

relationship with the CIA between March 4

of Fellows gathered over Memorial Day

tour of the Grand Ole Opry. Fellows were

and May 29, 2015.

weekend in Nashville, TN. An amazing

even called on stage as a surprise to all!

Blue Diamond Growers, Inc.

weekend of great food, fun, music, and

Cacique, USA

Greystone Hosts First Sommelier Summit

Cambro Manufacturing Company

House. Chef Vasisht Ramasubramanian

The inaugural CIA Sommelier Summit was held at the Greystone campus this

DeerDawg

’10 worked closely with Maneet to create an amazing experience for the Fellows. On

spring. Areas covered during three days of

day two, Fellows took a trolley tour of the

sessions involved wine list development,

camaraderie was had by all. They dined with weekend host Maneet Chauhan ’00 at her new restaurant, Chauhan Ale & Masala

Cento Fine Foods Cres Cor Hershey Company John Boos & Co. KitchenAid Lone Mountain Waygu McIlhenny Company Metro Shelving Oneida Rubbermaid Commercial Products, LLC San Jamar Saputo Cheese USA, Inc. Steelite International America Taylor Company Wood Stone

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panel at sommelier summit

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Following the Presidential Trail Look beneath the title of “college president” and you’ll find attributes like trailblazer, relationship nurturer, champion of big ideas, overseer of small details, and bold decision-maker. All that, and a president must have broad shoulders to carry the ultimate responsibility of progress. Whether it’s investing in programmatic changes, thought leadership initiatives, or physical improvements to a campus, President Tim Ryan exercises those attributes and weighs thousands of variables before giving any project the nod. One recent venture that got the enthusiastic “go ahead” is The Egg—a glorious new dining facility and gathering place for students on the Hyde Park campus.

At the “egg cracking” ceremony that officially opened The Egg on June 29, Tim explained, “Food brings us together to convene and nourish our community.” Students will have ample opportunities for learning at The Egg. The high-volume production class now operates the Jones Dairy Farm Line. An innovation station is the site of the pop-up foodservice concepts created by bachelor’s degree students taking the Intrapreneurship Concentration. The Brooklyn Brewery at the CIA is where classes on brewing and fermentation are being held. And countless student-centered events are planned for the comfortable lounges and open area at The Egg. All the ideas, collaborations, and, ultimately, the president’s “go ahead” have resulted in a wonderful addition to campus life. Take a look.

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Welcome to The Egg Nearly every college across the country provides a place for

our side. Their eponymous lounge offers students the opportunity to

students to relax, socialize, network, study, enjoy extracurricular

gather and “talk shop.”

activities, view occasional performances, and build a sense of community. With the completion of the new Student Commons—

E: Dole Packaged Foods Lounge

which included an upgrade to the recreational facilities and a

Culinary and nutrition education are at the forefront of the relationship

new dining and gathering spot called The Egg—the CIA now has

between Dole Packaged Foods (DPF) and the CIA (see page 28). DPF

a stunning venue where students can do all this and more. Built

is a sponsor of the CIA’s thought leadership conferences: Worlds

with a breathtaking view of the Hudson River, it will have both

of Flavor, Menus of Change, reThink Food, and Flavor, Quality, and

indoor and outdoor seating for dining, lounges for group study

American Menus. We share goals of sustainability, health and wellness,

and socializing, and a brewery.

and innovation. The Dole Packaged Foods Lounge offers two distinct

No college ever builds such a facility without the help of committed friends. And the CIA is lucky to have friends of longstanding who share its values and investment in the future of our industry. Their support has made it possible for us to create a venue that is thoughtfully and innovatively designed, and encourages student interaction and learning.

camaraderie.

F: The Statler Lounge The Statler Foundation, established by E.M. Statler in his will, is wholly committed to funding education in the hospitality industry. The Foundation has supported the CIA since 1958 with capital, programmatic,

Here’s a look at The Egg, and some of the

and scholarship grants. It is the goal of The

contributors who are helping to make it such a

Statler Foundation that this new lounge will

unique gathering place for students.

offer students an atmosphere conducive to

A: Le Cercle de Feu de Daniel Boulud

one of the great pioneers of the hotel industry.

Fifty-four friends and associates of renowned master chef Daniel Boulud donated funds for a space

conversation and contemplation and so honor

Jones Dairy Farm Line

in The Egg in honor of his 60th birthday. The lounge,

Jones Dairy Farm and the CIA have been linked for

surrounding the magnificent floor-to-ceiling fire pit, will

decades through the Jones Dairy Farm Endowed and

be forever imbued with Chef Boulud’s spirit of fraternity, generosity, and love of bringing people together.

B: The Banfi Vintners Foundation Lounge For more than three decades, The Banfi Vintners Foundation and the Mariani family have joined with the CIA in pursuit of excellence

Expendable Scholarships, donations of products, and sponsorship of our ACF student teams and annual Leadership Awards event. The company’s generous support of education, innovation, and excellence have resulted in the CIA naming The Egg’s high-volume production line and kitchen, the Jones Dairy Farm Line.

in culinary and wine education (see page 29). They are true

The Brooklyn Brewery at the CIA

champions of the college. This invaluable relationship will have

The exciting and innovative partnership between the Brooklyn Brewery

a lasting legacy in a beautiful lounge area where students can

and the CIA has meant the college could tap into the expertise of one

connect, enjoy conversation, and share ideas about food and wine.

of the largest breweries in the U.S. to help create this unique facility

D: Ventura Foods Lounge Ventura Foods, LLC has partnered with the CIA to focus on education and the science of food research and menu development for more than a decade. From gifts of high-quality Ventura products and scholarships to the Ventura Foods Center for Research and Menu Development on the Greystone campus to sponsoring the CIA’s major thought leadership conferences, Ventura has been at

16

conversation areas to foster the exchange of ideas and the joys of

in The Egg. The company’s support for this exciting venture included access to their world-renowned brewmaster, who is providing the CIA with both educational and production guidance. Friends of the CIA continue to come forward to support the development of The Egg, and there are still opportunities to do so. Interested in more information? Contact the Advancement and Business Development Office at 845-451-4275.

www.ciaalumninetwork.org


N F E

D

Jones Dairy Farm Line

B

A

The Brooklyn Brewery at the CIA 17


The brainchild of an unknown Forest Service engineer, this document found its way into the National Archive—most likely in a pile of other engineering drawings slated to be cataloged. Standards for document preservation tightened after World War II, so this gem might have


been tossed away had it not been for the Archive staff who appreciated the wit and charm of the piece and decided to keep it. Feel free to make your own mixed drinks using this as inspiration.


The Secret Life of CIA Chefs We know how much your chef-instructors meant to you while you were at the CIA—you tell us all the time! And those chefs know that a well-rounded life helps you stay in the game longer, burn out less, and enjoy life more. Your chef-instructors have lives outside the kitchen classrooms and we thought you’d like to take a peek and discover what helps them bring balance to their life as a chef.

Stillness in the Face of Calamity Every summer morning of his childhood, you’d find Lecturing Instructor Sean Kalenberg ’04 and his grandfather swimming side-by-side in the ocean off the coast of Wollongong, Australia. That daily ritual was intended to ensure that Sean would become a strong swimmer, and a fearless one—there were sharks in those waters! In winter, Sean and his friends would head to nearby Mounts Keira and Nowra to take advantage of the ranges’ 436 rock climbs. Strength and fearlessness were qualities required there too, as Sean would often climb solo without benefit of safety ropes.

Passion His passion for rock climbing has taken Sean to the tops of mountains around the world from Asia to Europe and from Canada to the U.S. At first, his skills and interest in cooking provided him with enough income to feed his passion for the next big trip; the next challenging rock face. He lived the life of a part-time cook and a full-time climber. Somewhere along the way, that equation flipped and Sean became serious about his cooking. He enrolled at the CIA, worked at some impressive establishments in the U.S., and is now back at the Hyde Park campus as a faculty member. But being a chef has never stopped Sean from climbing. These days, the Shawangunk Mountains are right outside his door.

Stillness Sean recounted how once, in the middle of a climb, he extended his arms to reach for the edges of a rock face. The rock separated from the mountain and Sean found himself holding a half-ton slab in his hands. He knew if he leaned back he would end up on the ground with the rock on top of him. So he leaned forward into the mountain and gently replaced the rock on the ledge. Then carefully, oh so carefully, he moved away to find another handhold. Rather than panic, he’d called upon his preparation, focus, and inner stillness to stay safe. And he firmly believes that the skills he must possess to be a rock climber are the same ones he needs as a chef. Utter stillness in the face of calamity is something Sean also values in the kitchen, where fire, knives, and close quarters can be the scene of many a drama. He also believes implicitly in building and trusting your skills. He teaches his students about the rhythm of working on the line, the benefits of efficiency, the imperative of mise en place—both mental and physical—and the laser focus that can make both an evening meal part and a 600-foot climb go by in a Zen-like moment.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.org


A Hunting Apprenticeship You could say that Associate Dean Cynthia Keller ’83 took a long time falling in love with wild bird hunting. In fact, it took her 16 years from the occasion of her first hunt—during which she walked cautiously beside her husband Michel while playing the part of the unarmed spotter—to the day she bagged her first woodcock. Cynthia spent season after season with Michel and other hunters—many from France and Italy—at the Little Westkill Conservation Club in the Catskills. They were all in search of pheasant, grouse, woodcock, and the odd rabbit to grace their dinner tables. Cynthia never hunted, but went along to forage for the wild mushrooms, thyme, rose hips, apples, pears, and quince that grew on the land. She would use her finds to enhance the meal she’d prepare with the birds Michel hunted. It was cooking with a nod to terroir—with many of the recipes including the very items the birds were known to eat.

Awakening Cynthia vividly remembers when she first acknowledged the inevitable circle of life that is part of the hunting experience. It was a cold, wet day and a freezing Cynthia was wearing borrowed hunting gear. Her jacket had a big zippered compartment in the back for storage. Michel proceeded to bag a rabbit and blithely unzipped the back pocket of Cynthia’s jacket and laid the rabbit in there for her to carry. On that very chilly day, the rabbit’s body offered her warmth, and later, sustenance. She and Michel paid homage to the rabbit by making a wonderful meal. And still, she would not hunt. It wasn’t until 2010, when she felt confident enough that she would do the animals justice, that she joined the hunt as a full participant. She took gun safety classes and got qualified. And it seems the long apprenticeship of walking, watching, and spotting paid off.

Mastery In England, entrance into exclusive bird hunting clubs require that you first bag a woodcock—a measure of mastery. Known for its unique takeoff and erratic flight pattern, it is particularly hard to shoot and its coloring makes it almost impossible to see on the forest floor. On her very first foray as a full-fledged hunter, Cynthia was walking along with her German Shorthaired Pointer, who suddenly stopped and pointed. At first she didn’t see the bird, but then, the woodcock took flight. Amazingly, Cynthia’s first shot took it in mid-air. She was over the moon with excitement. She attributes her success to the qualities of patience, responsibility, intense focus, passion, and, ultimately, mastery. Cynthia believes that these same qualities and expectations of self are imperative if a chef wishes to rise through the ranks and become excellent in their field—whether that field is in the kitchen or in the forest.

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Hopped Up on Home Brewing Oddly, it wasn’t until he was a student in the CIA’s Wine Studies class that Associate Professor Dave McCue ’93 had his eyes opened to the world of beer. Yes, beer, in a wine class. He’d always been a Budweiser type of guy and had no idea that this glimpse into the vast world of beer would ignite a passion and personal fascination that is impossible to suppress.

Thirst Dave’s first foray into home brewing is one familiar to many. He received a Mr. Beer—the ubiquitous beer-making kit designed primarily as a gateway experience for newbie brewers. He describes how he followed the directions, added the malt, and ended up with 2½ gallons of middling beer…the Bud Light of home brewing. The beer might have been indifferent, but Dave certainly wasn’t. He soon found a store not far from where he lived that sold home brewing supplies and ingredients. To him, it was like being in a candy store filled with grains, hops, malts, jugs, funnels, air locks, and hydrometers. There has been no stopping Dave ever since. The first beer he brewed after discovering that brewmaster’s nirvana was a Ballentine, with its golden straw color, white lacey head, and grapefruit, citrus, and pine nose. It’s smooth on the palate with a whisper of hops. He quickly graduated to creating his own original beers. For instance, with his Copperhead IPA—which is a hoppy, amber ale with a longlasting white head—Dave wants to give you the sensation of walking in the woods in springtime when you drink it. And his Saison Dupont—a Belgian-style beer—is a bit of a surprise because Dave replaces some of the hops with Szechuan peppercorns. They give the beer a bit of a kick while simultaneously helping to cool you down when eating spicy foods.

Seasons Brewing seasonally is also one of Dave’s passions. It seems that Mother Nature produces the ingredients needed at just the right time. For example, Dave grew butternut squash and sage in his home garden during the summer so it was ready at the ideal time for him to brew his Thanksgiving beer. He enjoys brewing for specific holidays. His smoked oatmeal stout is made with toasted oats and cherry wood-smoked malt and has a chewy, meaty finish that goes perfectly with a lovely Christmas ham. Dave believes brewing and being a chef have much in common. He applied his chef mindset of meticulous execution to the ancient craft of fermentation and found his perfect leisure-time diversion! Dave says that once you have mastered techniques, you can move forward with recipe development and experimentation. He really enjoys recreating lost favorites as well as putting the McCue stamp on spectacular new home brews.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.org


CIA Consulting, Taking Your Business to the Next Level Since 2002, CIA Consulting has been a trusted resource for business owners to help drive growth and profitability. So many of our graduates who are engaged in successful businesses are poised to expand but could benefit from consulting with, and being guided by, a team with expertise to meet challenges and put change into practice. CIA Consulting is here to help.

brad barnes ‘87 (left) and scott allmendinger

Take Your Business to the Next Level

The CIA Advantage

CIA consulting provides expertise and services in the following areas:

CIA Consulting draws from the experience and expertise of 170 faculty members as well as staff who excel in all areas of culinary arts and sciences, business operations, marketing and communications, product development, training, and applied culinary research.

Strategic Innovation • Product development, assessment, applications, and repositioning • Menu assessment and development • Innovation processes from ideation to concept to protocept to the gold standard of your sector • Using culinary expertise as a driver of customer value • Content marketing and content feeds, both static and video. Professional Development and Credentialing • Training specifically directed for professionals • Strategic development for culinary food marketers

Our team can also leverage its relationship with specialists to develop additional insights and access research data for your particular challenge. The team has international reach and brings an unbeatable combination of creativity, technical expertise, real-world experience, and visionary thinking to every project. From ideation to evaluation to the launch of a new product or service, your CIA consultant will be with you for the life of your project and will collaborate with CIA chefs, analysts, marketers, and other CIA strategic partners as necessary along the way.

For more information, contact CIA Consulting Directors

• Corporate culinary culture training

Scott Allmendinger (845-905-4404) or

• ProChef® and custom credentialing

Brad Barnes ’87 (845-451-1613).

• Train-the-trainer programs

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Women in Foodservice Tiffany Poe ’02

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www.ciaalumninetwork.org


From an early age, Tiffany Poe ’02 loved to speak the language of

For Tiffany, the real key to making her busy professional life

science. Naturally the idea of becoming a doctor just made sense. She

manageable is her husband Steve. He is the “magic ingredient” that

began a degree in microbiology and was prepared to do whatever it

makes it possible for her to have a thriving career and still keep her

took to succeed and make her way through school. So she applied

sanity and identity at home. Because, not only does she do work for

for a server position at a local casino to make money. The chef at the

the Food Network, she also has styled for Ladies Home Journal, Reader’s

casino’s five-star restaurant decided to give her an aptitude test, after

Digest, People, Country Woman, Land ’O Lakes, and Bush’s Baked

which he simply announced, “You are in the kitchen with me tonight.”

Beans.

Three hours later, Tiffany was on a high the likes of which she had

In 2012, Tiffany and Steve became the owners/innkeepers of the

never felt…she had found her place.

Grandview Inn in Pawhuska, OK. The historic bed and breakfast is

Tiffany thought about going to culinary school. Once again, it was

situated near the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve in Osage County, which

her chef’s declaration, “Go to the CIA,” that changed her life. While

is the largest tract of tallgrass prairie remaining in the world. One of

at the CIA, Tiffany soaked up every bit of knowledge she could,

its main attractions is the herd of 2,500 grazing bison. Travelers from

served as student body president, and worked a few hours a week in

all over the world stop at the beautifully appointed inn to enjoy the

the Admissions Office. “The phrase ‘we speak food’ sums up my time

comfort and great food she and Steve offer there.

at the CIA,” says Tiffany. “The CIA taught me how to speak about food to all kinds of people and in all kinds of situations. It became my

Truckin’ it

language and I have been speaking it ever since.”

With all of the work and cooking she did for others, Tiffany realized

Same Language/Different Audience Over the years, Tiffany has taken her love of teaching, people, and food into lots of different places. She’s done everything from work as a national demonstrator for the CIA to teaching in the culinary program at the Tri-County Technology Center in Bartlesville, OK to being the program manager at the Culinary Institute at Platt College in Tulsa, OK. She’s “spoken food” to incarcerated women and taught them about hospitality in preparation for their getting entry-level jobs in hotels and restaurants while an adjunct professor for Tulsa Community College. She’s currently the lead consultant for the state of Oklahoma, developing curriculum for child nutrition staff, a.k.a., “lunch ladies,” to teach them about the uses of fresh fruits and vegetables in menus.

that she missed developing and cooking her own recipes. One more brainstorm later, she and Steve had purchased a food truck, which they named Plum Delicious: A Mediterrasian Catering and Mobile Events Company. They love taking the truck to private parties and food truck festivals. Their four children have enjoyed learning the ropes as they help set up, take orders, and deliver food. Their oldest son is the sous chef and works the window while their oldest daughter fashions herself to be a rather good pastry chef. Tiffany’s specialties are such dishes as honey plum soy chicken, Korean-style BBQ pork tacos, Mediterrasian steak and fries, and flambéed plums with Chinese five spice.

Just One More Thing…

Tiffany traverses the state to train them in culinary boot camp-style

Having satisfied her desire to create her own food, Tiffany turned

programs called “Cooking for Kids.”

her attention to satisfying her love of education. Already the only active ACF-certified CEC in Oklahoma, she found a master’s degree

Stylin’…a Life by Design While in Tulsa, she started Tiffany Poe Culinary Services to provide food media services, culinary-based education training programs, and hospitality consulting resources. At around the same time, she became friends with Ree Drummond, known to most Food Network aficionados for her TV show, Pioneer Woman. The two hit it off and Tiffany has been cooking with Ree ever since. Tiffany styles for the Food Network show and assists Ree with her cookbooks and food

program in gastronomy offered jointly online by Southern Cross University and Le Cordon Bleu International, both in Australia. She recently completed her coursework and will travel to Australia in August to receive her diploma. As her next challenge, Tiffany has accepted the post of director of food studies and culinary operations at The College of Hotel and Restaurant Administration at Oklahoma State University. Whatever Tiffany does, one thing is for sure—she will always speak food!

projects. The two share a love of “bloody meat and béarnaise.” They attempt to maintain a semblance of traditional values by raising and homeschooling their children and balancing full-time careers. With four children each, that’s no small task!

mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Kopf Family Foundation Changes Lives

The R.C. Kopf Student Achievement Award is given to two CIA students annually. The award includes a $10,000 cash award as well as an all-expensepaid, six-week trip to California, France, and Italy. Students visit prestigious wineries, vineyards, and Michelin-star restaurants, as well as suppliers and partners of the Kobrand Corporation. Here, some of the recipients of the award talk about the trip’s transformational power.

I

n 1944, R.C. Kopf founded Kobrand, an importer of foreign fine wine and spirits and marketer of domestic wines. He had the distinction of being the first importer to provide training programs for not only his staff but the staff of his wholesalers and retailers as well. Through The Kopf Family Foundation and the R.C. Kopf Student Achievement Award, his three daughters continue to honor his legacy and his desire to give back to the industry through education. The award provides students from the CIA and other top institutions with an experience at a stage in their lives when such opportunities would not normally be available to them. The CIA is an outstanding institution and we want to give your students a head start to succeed in their careers.

Michael S. Insel, Esq., Trustee, The Kopf Family Foundation

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M

y trip took place during the blazingly hot summer of 2003, so by the time we got to Louis Jadot in Burgundy, the grapes had already been harvested. All was absolutely not lost! We spent three days cleaning barrels, racking wine, and rolling barrels from the underground cellar to upstairs where the older barrels were being sold off. We spent time with the producer and learned so much about the technical work of a winery. I had no understanding of how intense the work was, but the greatest lesson and biggest surprise for me was just how much I could love the business of wine. I began at the CIA as a culinary arts student. After the Kopf trip I knew my career was going to be in the front of the house and that beverages were my future.

Gretchen Thomas ’03, Wine and Spirits Director, Barteca Restaurant Group

S

wiveling through the rolling hills of Montalcino. Eating incredible food. Tasting Sassicaia from the barrel. Experiencing a serious gravity-only winery in Ribera del Duero. I could go on and on because the entire Kopf trip was purely awesome. At home you can taste, drink, and study, but nothing compares to being there and meeting the people, tasting the wine, and immersing oneself in a different culture. Since that trip, I have dedicated my career to wine. I was already on my way, but those weeks on the Kopf trip made me realize that I could truly love my work.

Yvonne Cheung ’07, Director of Wine, Swire Hotels, Hong Kong

W

hether in a Paris restaurant or a vineyard in Tuscany, what impressed me about everyone we met on the Kopf trip was their passion and the amazing hospitality they afforded us young students. I had my birthday while we were visiting Louis Jadot. They pulled out wines from my birth year to help us celebrate. Everyone took time out to focus on teaching us and it was very humbling. It was one of the first times that I was the recipient of such complete hospitality that wasn’t in a restaurant. Also, everyone we met was so hardworking and driven by passion. The trip cemented my love for wines, beverages, and hospitality.

Gonzalo Gout ’10, General Manager, Cosme, New York City

T

ransformative. That is the word I would use to describe the Kopf trip. It would have taken me a lifetime to replicate that experience if I tried to do it on my own. I have vivid memories of stomping grapes in Napa to make port, traveling through Burgundy and realizing the difference 10 paces can make in the terroir of a wine, and eating at amazing Michelin-star restaurants where I came to the conclusion that wine is best experienced at the table. The trip gave me boots-on-the-ground insight into the wine industry and helped me realize that it wasn’t cooking the meal but rather creating the complete experience at the table that I wanted to do. I still reference my experiences on that trip.

Neal Wavra ’04, Food & Beverage Manager/Sommelier, Goodstone Inn and Estate, Middleburg, VA

W

hat I remember most about the Kopf trip was the people and how everyone made us feel so incredibly welcome. At every venue, everyone wanted to teach us and take such great care of us. This trip was my first truly serious education in wine and it showed me what really matters is not so much the winemaking process but rather the places and the people who make the wine. This revelation impacted the direction of my career. And so today, the beverage training I do with my team focuses on understanding wines in a grounded way. That’s a direct reflection of what I learned on the trip.

Tyler Vaughan ’04, General Manager, Gramercy Terrace, New York City mise en place no.70, October 2015

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Dole Packaged Foods Working Smarter, Not Harder

ideation, trend information, and custom analysis for corporate clients. For speed scratch cooking— incorporating flavor without the labor—the DPF team developed chef-ready, shelf-stable, non-GMO fruit and vegetable purées including mirepoix, sofrito, and the vegetable trinity, as well as frozen diced fruit. Dolefoodservice.com delivers an annual “Fruit Pairings” feature with globally inspired recipes using these products.

Dole Joins CIA Alumnus to Give Back cake pops made with non-gmo fruit purée

collaborating with Roy Choi

By Gail Jones

’98 and the Coalition for Responsible Community Development in Los

Today, doing more with less is an essential part of any business

Angeles to create the 3 Worlds Café, a shop that brings quality food to

strategy. Businesses ask themselves the questions: Is our state looking

an L.A. neighborhood that has limited access to healthy food options.

at raising the minimum wage? Does our staff have the skill set to

DPF donated startup funding and ingredients, and now provides

maximize our ROI? Are we starved for time to develop the vegetable-

product to the café at cost. They’ll soon hit the road with the 3 Worlds

and fruit-centric items our guests are demanding?

Food Truck to expand Roy’s mission.

Enter Dole Packaged Foods (DPF). The company wants to be the professional chef’s solutions resource. Stuart McAllister, DPF’s vice president of sales and marketing, recognizes that “a good today in our business is finding that next inspiration to use on the menu tomorrow.” That’s why DPF has supported and been engaged in the CIA’s annual thought-leadership conferences, including Worlds of Flavor®; Flavor, Quality and American Menus; Menus of Change®; reThink Food; and the new Healthy Kids Initiative. McAllister knows that “creating and serving better food is a neverending cycle.” To that end, DPF made a major investment with its new facility in Westlake Village, CA, where renowned corporate chef Dieter Preiser—recipient of the American Culinary Federation’s 2012 Presidential Medallion and first president of the Research Chefs Association—and his team collaborate with other foodservice professionals on product and menu ideation. They also provide on-site

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Dole Packaged Foods is

Making Education a Priority DPF contributed to student scholarships through its support of the CIA’s 2015 Leadership Awards event, and McAllister has invested personally in the college’s mission through his membership in the Society of Fellows, an exclusive group of professionals and food enthusiasts who act as CIA advocates. And recently, the company raised the bar on its charitable giving. “We’re excited about our ongoing presence on the Hyde Park campus with the Dole Packaged Foods Lounge in the new Student Commons,” says McAllister. Victor Gielisse, CIA vice president of advancement and business development, welcomes the involvement. “We’re looking forward to future collaborations with DPF in the continuing cycle of inspiration and innovation.” Gail Jones is a CIA advancement officer.

www.ciaalumninetwork.org


The Banfi Vintners Foundation Dedicated to a Finer Wine World

wine market in the U.S. by introducing Riunite Lambrusco, a wholesome, affordable wine meant to transform American attitudes to embrace that wine is food. The brilliant success of Riunite allowed the family to purchase 7,000 acres in Montalcino in Tuscany, Italy. They spent 20 years researching and experimenting with the 29 different types of soil found there and with microvinification of 180 of the 650 types of Sangiovese grape grown throughout the area. Through this cutting-edge clonal work, they identified the 15 varieties of grapes that best represent the characteristics for Brunello wine. They registered that work with the European Union so that all producers could make a better Brunello. The Mariani family believes that if everyone can make an outstanding wine, then the castello banfi in montalcino, italy

By Elly Erickson Connecting, communicating, and educating—that’s what cousins Cristina Mariani-May and James Mariani, co-CEOs of the internationally acclaimed Banfi Vintners, believe are central to creating a finer wine world. For more than three decades, Banfi Vintners, the leading importer of award-winning wines to the U.S., and their charitable Banfi Vintners Foundation have joined with the CIA in pursuit of excellence in culinary and wine education. “As one of the most respected preparatory institutions for the next generation of our industry, the CIA’s outreach is unmatched,” James Mariani explains. “How the college addresses the contemporary context of food and wine is one of the greatest things it offers.” The Banfi Vintners Foundation and the Mariani family are grounded in the philosophy of giving back time, money, and knowledge. From support of The Banfi Vintners Foundation Lounge in the new Student Commons to scholarships for extraordinary student trips to Tuscany to hundreds of cases of exceptional wine donated over the years, the Mariani family has been a genuine champion of the CIA. The growth, creativity, integrity, and ingenuity of Banfi Vintners over its nearly 100-year history demonstrate a solid lesson in how to make an impossible dream possible. After surviving Prohibition and World War II, the company decided, in 1967, to strategically expand the

mise en place no.70, October 2015

entire industry will prosper. Their innovation did not stop there. They patented a hybrid stainless steel/wood fermenter that infuses the Brunello with a beautiful cleanliness from the steel and gentleness from the traditional oak. Evidence of the family’s impact is clear. Because of Banfi Vintners’ presence there, Montalcino now has nearly 300 wineries (compared to only seven in the 1980s), is frequented annually by hundreds of thousands of visitors, and has been transformed from the poorest hilltop town in Tuscany to the wealthiest one. Castello Banfi in Montalcino annually receives prestigious awards like “Winery of the Year” from Wine Enthusiast magazine and the Association of Italian Sommeliers, as well as the 2015 Winemakers Challenge. It is also the first winery in the world to receive recognition as an international leader in customer satisfaction (ISO 9001:2000); and for exceptional environmental, ethical, and social responsibility (ISO 14001 and SA8000). The CIA applauds Banfi Vintners for its focus on elevating the standards of Italian winemaking, and is proud to play a part in its success. “Through wine we are connecting with people, building global networks, and finding the best and brightest,” Cristina says. “The CIA helps us stay on top of trends in the food and hospitality industry, and connects us to some of the greatest alumni in the world.” Elly Erickson is a CIA senior advancement officer.

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Why Give? (Left to right) Maxwell Heathcott, senior culinary manager; Jennifer Michaelis, director of innovation; Matt Tovey, CIA student/extern; Steve Stroud, president of sales and marketing

Steve Stroud

scholarships have been awarded. In addition, we have an externship

President, Sales and Marketing, C.H. Guenther & Son, Inc.

learning experience. With our test kitchen and R&D facility located

C.H. Guenther & Son, Inc. Scholarship

just down the street from the campus, students have a convenient location to get some real-world training from a time-tested company. Students working with our culinarians and scientists are exposed to all

What motivates you to give?

facets of the new product development process, including collaborative

C.H. Guenther & Son, Inc. is a 164-year-old, privately held company

introduction. They are also involved with recipe development, sensory

located in San Antonio, TX. We were founded in 1851 by a

training, and product formulation. Students spending time in our

German immigrant who started a mill in Fredericksburg, TX. Since

kitchen will leave with a better understanding of the art and science

those humble beginnings, we’ve grown to operate more than 16

behind developing value-added products for the food industry.

manufacturing facilities in four countries that provide grain-based

brainstorming, product testing, commercialization, and market

food products to the retail and foodservice industries.

What makes giving meaningful?

At C.H. Guenther & Son, we are committed to giving back to our

Reading some of the wonderful notes we’ve received from the

community and our industry. Working closely with The Culinary

scholarship recipients is heartwarming. The passion they have for the

Institute of America, we are able to accomplish both goals. The CIA is

school, the education they are receiving, as well as the future they are

the gold standard for culinary education and we are proud to support

building for themselves is quite inspiring. This quote is particularly

their educational efforts. When they opened a branch campus in San

meaningful as it speaks to a recent intern’s experience in our kitchen.

Antonio, we knew we wanted to support those students in need of

“I have been able to see a very different side of the culinary industry that allows

financial assistance.

me to use my creative mind, while in a very professional setting. Overall,

How do you give?

this has been one of the most enjoyable experiences of my life and has totally

C.H. Guenther & Son has been engaged with the CIA, San Antonio

Matt Tovey, CIA student and extern

since its grand opening in October of 2010—serving as one of two presenting sponsors for the celebration. We followed this up by committing to a four-year scholarship program. To date, six

30

program set up to bring students into our facility for a non-traditional

cemented my desire to work in this industry.”

We are so pleased to support the CIA, San Antonio and proud of its outstanding contributions to our community.


Giving’s Impact Antonio ruiz ‘16

Antonio Ruiz (anticipated 2016) Associate Degree in Culinary Arts Recipient: C.H. Guenther & Son, Inc. Scholarship

Describe your life prior to coming to the CIA. My mom was a catering manager, and from an early age I helped her on weekend evenings with serve-outs and plate-ups. She hosted high-volume, Colonial-style events, where I was exposed to the “chef hustle” in the kitchen. My time spent there inspired me to enroll in the culinary classes offered at my high school. Later, I started competing and placing in a variety of culinary competitions. I’ve learned to thrive on the controlled chaos of the kitchen.

What are some highlights of your CIA experience? The best parts of attending the CIA are the amazing connections I’ve made. The intimate atmosphere of the campus enables students to cultivate both professional and personal relationships with our chefs and classmates. Every few weeks, the college hosts professional seminars and demos, where I have been exposed to a variety of different aspects of the food industry.

What are your plans for the future? With the recent food truck boom, I was convinced that I wanted to own my own food truck post-graduation. My passion lies in farm-totable cuisine and I had hoped to incorporate that love of fresh food into the convenience of a food truck. While on externship at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua in Hawaii, I fell in love with the hospitality

What motivated you to attend the CIA?

industry and discovered that Ritz-Carlton holds the same values

Taking part in, and being recognized at, culinary competitions helped

been eye-opening to learn that, at the corporate level, there can be a

me realize I wanted to do this for the rest of my life. Growing up seeing the booming culinary industry on TV, I was captivated by the power chefs had to transfer their passion to the public. I really wanted that same power. I soon realized that my passion and my willingness to do the hard work meant the CIA is where I belonged. However,

regarding farm-to-table fare and food sustainability that I do. It has profound sense of the importance of quality food and environmental well-being. This has made me reconsider my thinking about how best to pursue my commitments to sustainability, giving back, and sharing my passion for food.

having the means to attend the world’s premier culinary college was something that I had to figure out. Thanks to the scholarship program and gracious donors like C.H. Guenther & Son, Inc., I am able to fulfill my dreams.

31


farms. Alfred Seritti is chef/owner of Alfred’s Restaurant in Fort Myers, FL.

’61

retired and loving his life in

ing culinary arts in Philadelphia, he and his wife relocated to Oregon to be near family. He is still working as an independent food production and management services consultant.

Glen R. Hadley retired in 2014 as human resource

director for the Education Division at Sodexo, after 43 years with the company.

John Bencivengo, Jr. is executive chef at the U.S.S.

Chowder Pot III restaurant in Branford, CT. In addition, he is chef/instructor in an afterschool program for children in Bethany, CT and enjoys doing cooking demonstrations for senior citizens at local senior centers and libraries.

’81

Timothy D. Coon is food service manager for Quest

Food Management Services in Lombard, IL. Susana B. Mulcahey is an administrator, elementary French teacher, and

Richard Moseley is the

culinary instructor at Heartwood Grove

owner of the Harpswell Inn in

French Immersion School of the Arts in

Harpswell, ME.

’68

’78

executive chef for Roundy’s

Steven Levin is happily semi-

gratifying career of almost 40 years teach-

’63

Sue Ann Ashton-Becker is

Supermarkets Inc. in Kenosha, WI.

the great Pacific Northwest. After a most

’62

’77

Ralph G. Warren retired as chef/owner of the Westport

Richmond, VA.

’82

Roger Hanson is owner of Hanson’s Hill Country Cater-

Hotel in Westport, NY after 23 years. He

ing at the Lodge at Bridal Veil Falls in

has been married for 47 years, and has

Spring Branch, TX. He spent more than

three children and four grandchildren.

30 years with Sodexo in corporate service

Len Gentieu is author of Chasing the

and healthcare.

Heat: 50 Years & A Million Meals. He gives readers a glimpse into his long and successful career in foodservice—from Army mess to a thriving charter dinner-cruise business.

’83

Karen (Wooley) Kaehler is head of culinary innova-

CARSON COULTER sleeps through her dad’s cooking (see ‘02)

’89

Gerald Dunn is chef/owner for JVD Restaurants, Inc. in

Batavia, IL. Edward L. Pasch is execu-

VA. He is two-time Torch Bearer Award recipient and Chairman’s Club recipient

tive chef at Orama in Edgewater, NJ.

from Sysco Foods Corporation in 2013 and 2014. Robert T. Schaefer graduated

’94

Donato C. Gemmati is chef/owner of Gino’s Pizzeria

Restaurant, Gino’s Pizzeria Red Oaks, and JD’s Pub-n-Brew, all in Poughkeepsie, NY. He makes his own sopressata and house-made wine. Ronald Taylor is

’95

Lisa Schroeder is owner/ executive chef of Mother’s

Bistro in Portland, OR. She received the 2015 Oregon Women of Achievement Award from the Oregon Commission

of charitable organizations.

program director/instructor at

’96

ness Week Award from the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce for his contributions to his community. He provides meal vouchers for those in need and supports local businesses, food banks, schools, and

32

Galveston, TX.

’00

David Forcinito is seafood

’01

Paolo Fontana is chef at the

specialist for Southern Foods

in Greensboro, NC.

SCGP Café on the campus of

John McAuley is marketing

NY. In April 2015, he won Edible Long

associate for Sysco San Fran-

Island’s Local Hero Award.

cisco, Inc. in San Francisco, CA.

’02

Jonathan Coulter is owner of Le Café in Apollo, PA. He

is proud to announce a new addition to his family, son Carson, born in Febru-

’87

Clifford Meyers is vice presi-

ary 2015 (above). Russell Wheeler is

dent—business development for

pastry chef at Erna’s Elderberry House in

’88

Michael Jenniches is own-

K12 Services, Inc. in Rockville, MD.

Oakhurst, CA.

Dierk’s Midtown Cafe in Santa Rosa, CA. He recently received the Small Busi-

owner of Art in the Baking, LLC in

Stony Brook University in Stony Brook,

food (right).

of Dierk’s Parkside Cafe and

chef and founder of Loophole

Dining, a pop-up company in Boston,

April Didrikson is president/CEO/

grandpa test various recipes for baby

’74

Michael Betts is a personal

New England Patriots’ Rob Gronkowski.

grandson, Declan, who enjoys watching

Mark Dierkhising is owner

’98

MA. Last year, he was private chef for the

profit communities and generous support

moments are spent in the kitchen with his

May 2015.

Lakewood, NJ.

Portland progressive and feminist non-

in Rome, GA. But, some of his happiest

from Creighton University Law School in

executive chef for Brand Aromatics in

Englewood, CO.

Georgia Northwestern Technical College

president/chief operating

officer for TASTE Unlimited in Norfolk

New York City. John Piliouras is execu-

for Women for her work as a pillar of the

’85

Robert T. Reper is vice

tive chef at the Marriott Downtown in

tion for Red Robin Gourmet Burgers in

Greg Paulson is culinary arts

’97

er/pastry chef at his recently

opened First Stop Bake Shop—a classic mom-and-pop bakeshop in Rosewood Heights, IL.

DEclAN PAULSON SUPERVISING GRANDPA IN THE KITCHEN (see ‘85)

’03

Trevor Kunk is executive chef at Press Restaurant in

St. Helena, CA.

www.ciaalumninetwork.org


’05

Jordan Green is the admin-

annually. Kaiulani Tellez-Giron and

istrative chef at The Produce

Stewart Lee Talbot ’10 are planning a

Station, a retail and catering company in

fall 2016 wedding.

Ann Arbor, MI. John H. Peper is executive chef at Tarrytown House Estate and Conference Center in Tarrytown, NY.

’08

’11

Caitlin (Benway) Acri and Jesse Acri ’11 were married

in November 2014. Robert S. Miller is

Gia Sabine Rabito is a clini-

owner/operator of The Copper Penny in

cal dietitian at the University

West Liberty, IA. He and his team are

of Iowa Hospitals and Clinics in Iowa

the winners of the 2014 Iowa Best Bite

City, IA.

Challenge. Cameron Rahtz is forager/ larder manager for The Restaurant at

’09

Brittany B. Carfrey is restaurant manager at Lure Res-

taurant, a part of Fifth Group Restaurants in Atlanta, GA. Her husband Thomas Carfrey ’09 is executive chef/partner at

Meadowood in St. Helena, CA.

’12

Jacqueline Colello is assistant pastry chef at the

Westchester Country Club in Rye, NY.

The Capitol Grille, also in Atlanta. Brian J. Vandermause is executive chef at Los Robles Hospital and Medical Center in Thousand Oaks, CA.

’10

’13

Tyler O’Laskey and Aubrey King ’13 met at

the CIA and married in August 2014. They are chef/owners of Butter & Salt,

Nicholas Ahrens is product

a private chef and catering company in

applications culinologist for

Lake Tahoe, NV, where they are commit-

Bay State Milling in Quincy, MA. He

ted to growing their own produce. Ryan

recently got married and had a son.

Teleha is chef for Jackalope Lakeside in

Kimberlee Ann Martin has a two-

Lorain, OH.

year-old daughter and got married in September 2015 in Taunton, MA. Patrick Smith is sous chef at Old Ebbitt Grill in Washington, DC. Restaurant Business magazine named Old Ebbit the third-

’14

Emma Pribish is a cook for The California Grill at Walt

Disney World in Orlando, FL.

highest-grossing independent eatery in America—earning more than $26 million

victoria displaying and wearing her edible flowers

Sweet Offerings Victoria Zagami ’09 has gum paste and fondant in her DNA. For most of her life, her parents owned and operated Made in Heaven Cakes in Brooklyn, NY. So it wasn’t a surprise to anyone when she decided to enroll at the CIA as a baking and pastry arts student. She took her externship at Colette’s Cakes to work with renowned New York City pastry chef Colette Peters. But even though cake decorating was Victoria’s passion, she wanted to expand her repertoire and spent the first few years after graduation experimenting with bread baking. She also worked the line as a pastry chef and at the cookie station at Bouchon Bakery. In 2012, Victoria went back to her roots and took over the family business, Made in Heaven Cakes. She recognizes what an honor it is to be able to continue her family legacy and feels the responsibility of growing the business into something new and fresh. Most recently, her flowerpot cakes with gumpaste flowers were featured in O, The Oprah Magazine. Victoria certainly appears to be up to the challenges she has set for herself. Life, right now, is sweet!

In Memoriam John M. Panasuk ’71

Christopher L. Majer ’83

John B. L. Schopfer ’72

Thomas M. Ernst ’84

Paul R. Dion ’73

Gerard M. Fisher ’84

James Andrew Lennox ’73

Elizabeth Anne Calistri ’85

Glenn Nicholas Humphrey ’74

James P. Myers ’85

Stephen R. Schweitzer ’74

Michael Daniel Ex ’87

John M. Adams ’77

Neil Anthony McCarley ’87

Kenneth John Anders ’77

Robert Wayne Taylor ’87

Michael Heywang ’77

Christopher P. Day ’88

Emily Burten-Werksman ’78

Clark Raines ’88

Robert Cohen ’78

Robert J. Gildersleeve, Jr. ’90

Mark Joseph Braunreuther ’79

Michele Lambert ’91

Walter S. Scheib III ’79

Brian J. Murphy ’91

Frances Lynn McCormick ’80

Gretchen Ann Randall ’98

John George Spann ’82

mise en place no.70, October 2015

aubrey king ‘13 and tyler o’laskey ‘13 married august 2014

33


34

www.ciaalumninetwork.org


Own a Piece of Lou’s Wall!

The Gastrotypographicalassemblage—a.k.a., Lou’s Wall—is a three-

And now, you can own a piece of the wall! Nick Fasciano is offering framed,

dimensional ode to typography and food inspired by Lou Dorfsman,

actual-size reproduction of any segment from Lou’s Wall. This unique

former creative director at CBS. This piece of history graced the dining

example of 20th century graphic art will make a stunning statement in

room of CBS headquarters from the 1960s to the mid-1990s. In 2014,

your home or office or a thoughtful gift for the foodies in your life!

after meticulous restoration by Nick Fasciano, one of the original

Choose the section you want from the Gastrotypographicalassemblage,

craftsmen, it was brought back to life and now graces a wall in the

and it will be custom-crafted for you. Better still, a portion of the funds

Marriott Pavilion at the CIA in Hyde Park, NY.

raised from the sale of Lou’s Wall replicas benefits The Culinary Institute

The wall is 35 feet long, eight feet high, and consists of more than 1,650 letters that spell out culinary terms and expressions. It also includes 65 food-related objects like Champagne corks, jam jars, wooden spoons, and bread molds. It has become a favorite “selfie station” for students and visitors alike.

2

of America Scholarship Fund. 1. Food-illustrated Cans

(14 1⁄4" x 15 5⁄8" x 4")

2. Strudel

(22 1⁄2" x 9" x 3")

3. Eat, Drink & Be Merry

(26 ⁄2" x 27 ⁄2" x 3")

4. Pizza

(20" x 9 3⁄4" x 3")

375

5. Menu

(23 ⁄4" x 12" x 3")

450

6. Carte du Jour

(213⁄4" x 8" x 3")

375

1

375

1

1

5

$ 875 1,725

6

4 3

1

To order, visit www.ciachef.edu/lous-wall Prices will vary depending on your selection. Please expect up to five weeks for delivery.

mise en place no.70, October 2015

35


The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

SAVE the DATE 2016 Leadership Awards Thursday, April 28, 2016 6 p.m. Reception 7:30 p.m. Dinner American Museum of Natural History, New York City (Details coming soon!)

ciachef.edu/awards Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement & CIA Websites Career Services 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 Business Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 ciaalumninetwork.org 845-905-4275 ciaprochef.com ciagiving.org ciarestaurantgroup.com ciawine.com

36

Student Financial & Professional Development Registration Services 1-800-888-7850 845-451-1688

General Information 845-452-9600

www.ciaalumninetwork.org

Mise En Place Issue 70 Drink Up  

Mise En Place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America and reflects its principles and core value...

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