Mise en Place 67 The Other Culinary Arts by The Culinary Institute of America

No. 67, October 2014

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

The Other Culinary Arts

product developer

MARKETER

RECIPE TESTER

Food Blogger

Food Historian

Cookbook Writer

PHOTOGRAPHER

Menu Designer

Editor

digital producer

COFFEE TESTER

6 6

The Other Culinary Arts Careers of passion outside the kitchen

16 Naturally Sweet

Tapping into a CIA resource

Restaurant Critic Food Stylist

Lifestyle Expert

18 Beverage Trendsetters Experts share their insights

30 Steelite

Setting the standard for giving

30 $100 MILLION

65,000,000 50 MILLION

15 Across the Plaza

Following the Presidential Trail | Hollywood Comes to the CIA | Beverage Trends | Rudd Center for Professional

1 MILLION

26 Gifts at Work

Growing Up CIA | Plan Your Legacy Why Give? | Givingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Impact

Wine Studies

20 Education for Life

Biodynamic Viticulture | Discovering Wine for Life Worlds of Flavor | Kudos | Book Shelf

31 Class Notes & Campaigns

Class Notes | In Memoriam | Student Thank-you Building on Excellence Capital Campaign

My path to career satisfaction was not a straight shot. Like many of us, I managed to bump into people and opportunities that changed the trajectory of my work life. In college, I majored in psychology. There, I found a happy home. But, in my junior year, I took English courses that transformed my life. I added a minor in English. Right out of college, I headed for my master’s degree in social work. I spent 11 years as a social worker in a psychiatric hospital and opened a private psychotherapy practice. Seems straightforward; psychology was my game and I loved it.

mise en place® No. 67, October 2014 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing Writers Kathryn Conrad ’99 Ezra Eichelberger Ron Hicks Aleanna Luethi-Garrecht ’03

Well, here is where my trajectory changed. After having my son, I started a

Chandra Ram ’99

“mommy and me” group. One of the members was a book agent who thought I should write about the relationship of mothers and their adult daughters, since I was doling out advice anyway as the babies crawled around us on the floor. And

Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Lynne Eddy

Dr. Victor Gielisse Vice President— Advancement and Business Development

Eric Jenkins ’13

Brad Barnes ’87

Ted Russin

taken advantage of opportunities and moments of serendipity to re-shape their

Kate Cavotti

Denise Zanchelli

careers. We are calling it “The Other Culinary Arts.”

Sue Cussen

so, my writing career began. I took a job at an educational publishing company that produced guidance and health programs. After years there, I became the editor of the CIA’s alumni magazine. I still have a very small private practice. Seems writing and psychology are inextricably connected for me. This edition of mise en place will introduce you to a number of alumni who have

John Fischer ’88 Dr. Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Nancy Cocola Editor

Mission

n_cocola@culinary.edu

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students. Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry.

Our cover playfully pays homage to Norman Rockwell’s “Triple Self-Portrait.”

Notice of nondiscrimination: The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following Civil Rights Compliance Officers at the CIA have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policies:

Title IX and Age Discrimination: Joe Morano, HR Director—Faculty Relations 845-451-1314, j_morano@culinary.edu, Office—Roth Hall, Room S-324 Section 504/ADA: Maura A. King, Director—Compliance 845-451-1429, m_king@culinary.edu, Office—Roth Hall, Room S-351 Mailing address: The Culinary Institute of America, 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit www.ciachef.edu/consumer-information.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Taking the Cake Newly promoted U.S. Army Brigadier General Richard B. Dix received his first General Officer star at a ceremony at Ft. Myer, VA on May 17. Little did he know that one of the soldiers who had served under him in 2006 and gone on to graduate from The Culinary Institute of America would help him celebrate the biggest day of his military career. Current CIA Veterans Admission Counselor Eric Jenkins ’13, who spent 24 years in the military, presented his former commander with a cake he created to mark the occasion. It was served to more than 300 family, friends, and guests of General Dix.

Lost and Found

back to get it. When her father passed

CIA, or made one-time donations, between

away, Brenda took the box. She recently

October 1, 2013 and June 2, 2014:

ran across it again and decided to contact the CIA. Advancement Officer Steve Swofford began the hunt armed with the

ACH Food Companies, Inc. Bradford Renaissance Portraits Corp.

initials etched inside the ring, WCG. Using

Bunn Corporation

class lists and the Internet, Steve found Dr.

Cooper-Atkins Corp.

Wayne Guyette ’63, who was thrilled and amazed that someone had found his ring.

D’Arrigo Bros., Co. of California

He had lost it when he was stationed at Fort

Dipo Induction

Benning. Wayne went on to earn his PhD

Guittard Chocolate Company

in education and is a college professor. And while he may have misplaced his ring, he never misplaced his affection for his alma

John Boos & Co. Lamb Weston, Inc.

mater. Before we even got in contact with

McIlhenny Company

him, he had already made provisions for

Nestlé Waters North America, Inc.

the CIA in his estate planning.

Renshaw Baking

Brenda Cummings from Alabama

Gift-in-Kind

Steelite International USA, Inc.

contacted us to say that she was in

The CIA is deeply grateful to the following

T & S Brass and Bronze Works, Inc.

possession of a CIA class ring from 1963.

companies that have donated products or

Tuxton China, Inc.

Years ago, her father found the ring in the

services. Each furthers the mission of the

restroom of the gas station he owned near

CIA to provide cutting-edge educational

Fort Benning, GA. He kept it in a small

programs. These donors renewed or began

box, thinking that someone might come

their gift-in-kind relationships with the

Ventura Foods, LLC Villeroy & Boch, USA Wood Stone, Inc.

brigadier General dix, his wife, and eric jenkins ‘13

mise en place no.67, October 2014

Kersti bowser mentoring cia student stephanie kirkland during photo shoot

The Other Culinary Arts

A passion for food doesn’t always result in a career in the kitchen. Many of our alumni find themselves in careers informed by what they learned at the CIA and shaped by unexpected and eye-opening experiences. Here are a few of their stories…

The Glamour of Accomplishment From in Front to Behind the Camera

By Kersti Bowser ’01

As a teenager, my favorite TV channel was PBS, especially when

I was a career changer when the term

Julia Child or Jacques Pépin was on. I learned to cook using Julia

wasn’t even coined yet. I’d decided

Child’s VHS library, which I still have, some 31 years later.

to just follow my heart, a heart that yearned to express the love I had for people through food.

For a whole year, I saved up to take a three-day cooking class in some woman’s home. Her name was Martha Stewart. Because I had no car, she picked me up and dropped me off at the train

During my first career in the fashion

station every day. Martha took me under her wing and gave me my

industry in the ’80s and ’90s, I was

first glimpse into the cohesiveness of food, its presentation, and its

considered a successful cover model.

relationship to the surrounding elements.

I was flown to exotic locations around the globe in search of the perfect picture. But something was missing for me. My attention was never on haute couture but rather on haute cuisine. I’d read and collect cookbooks, not fashion magazines. My goal wasn’t shopping for fancy clothes but rather hitting the streets to see what kind of food was out there. Simply put, my passion was food. Growing up, I spent summers in the northern mountains of Sweden. I watched my grandmother prepare slow-simmering stews on the same three-burner wood stove we still use when we visit. I remember canning the vast assortments of wild mushrooms and berries we foraged deep in the forests. My grandfather often came home with wild game hanging off a whittled branch or draped across his shoulders. There was always a giant ceramic bowl on the counter filled with offal soaking in milk. The lake in front of

In the late ’90s, I was living in Europe with my own thriving business. While on a visit home, I met my mother for lunch at the CIA’s Escoffier Restaurant. As soon as I walked onto the campus I thought, “This is me.” I knew I belonged there. Within one year, I’d sold everything and was back in Hyde Park hoping to learn at the feet of the gods who wore toques and aprons. It was the most difficult and best decision I have ever made. I learned so much at the CIA, especially “mental mise en place.” It changed and clarified me. I became stronger and more perceptive. I learned about always being one step ahead, working hard with a solid and honest attitude, paying extra attention, and owning up to my mistakes and learning from them. To this day, I apply these principles to every area of my life.

the cottage was chock full of vital resources, and we would have

My start in food styling was on externship. I had an interview at

fresh fish for breakfast. I was taught to have respect and gratitude

the then-little-known Food Network. Everything was new there and

for what the land gave us, to use only what you need, and to

you could feel a sense of excitement and energy. I learned so much

stretch an ingredient.

every day. If I didn’t know how to do something, I asked to be

mise en place no.67, October 2014

shown. If an errand meant running a mile to get it done, I did it. After graduation, I went back to the Food Network and worked my way up the ranks. I finally started my own media business and the Food Network, among other media outlets, became my clients. Today, my team and I support chefs, cookbook authors, TV personalities and their sponsors and brands at PR-related venues, cooking series, web-based series, cooking demonstrations, and

have yet to experience that. It is an intensive industry that is highly competitive. You will be surprised at how many different hats you wear in a given day—producer, recipe tester, script writer, teacher, chef, sous chef, dishwasher, accountant, driver, shopper, roadie, moving company, handyman, artist, and set designer, to name a few. You often work with little or no sleep under tough conditions with no running water or electricity.

print for magazines and books.

As a stylist, you bring your entire kitchen on your back, including

In the last 13 years, my company, Gourmet Butterfly Media, has

prepped food in various stages and set design props for the chefs.

worked on hundreds of shows with nearly all the chefs who are household names—including Padma Lakshmi, Tom Colicchio, Rocco DiSpirito ’86, Sandra Lee, Rachael Ray, Anne Burrell

You are always under time pressure on TV, and must think on your feet. You are rarely in the same place twice in a week. Without the proper culinary training, time management skills, willingness to

’96, Ming Tsai, Sara Moulton ’77, Sunny Anderson, Guy Fieri,

learn, and pure hard work you cannot run a successful food-styling

Bobby Flay, the Neelys, Cat Cora ’95, Michael Symon ’90,

business. Many come into the field thinking it’s glamorous, but they

Aaron Sanchez, Ellie Krieger, Donatella Arpaia, and Marc

are often disappointed and can’t make it for the long haul.

Forgione. It has been a privilege learning and growing alongside

Your job is to realize your client’s vision. You disappear even while

them. I’ve seen many of them go from being hard-working line cooks to mega-stars. Even non-chefs like Sheryl Crow, Eva

you are essential. You are not the star; they are.

Longoria, Debbie Mazar, and Gwyneth Paltrow have enlisted me

My food-styling career has been filled with odd schedules and

to help them prepare for their cookbook debuts in media venues.

lots of travel. I’m proud to say that even as a single parent, I’ve

My biggest learning experience was a two-year stint on the road styling exclusively for Tyler Florence’s Food 911. We traveled to

managed to raise my wonderfully smart and talented son, and still have a fulfilling career.

nearly 100 households, transforming homeowners’ kitchens into

And, really, it’s been my dream job. Instead of the camera being

mini TV studios. He taught me that you must never attempt to

aimed at me, it is aimed at my chefs and our food. When people are

make “fake” food on TV. He would cook all day to prepare an

happy with the final product, it makes my heart sing. That sense of

absolutely delicious dish so the guest’s on-camera reaction was

accomplishment is where I find glamour these days.

totally genuine.

In the future, I’d love to teach. I hope to influence budding foodies

Probably the greatest compliment I’ve received came from Emeril

and stylist wannabes, and show them that there is more to media

Lagasse when he called me “chef.” We worked side-by-side for eight

than the shiny side. You may even find me back in the classrooms

very intense weeks on his program Emeril’s Table. He put his trust

at the CIA seeking my bachelor’s degree. After all, to be a great

in me and asked my opinion on everything. I was blown away.

business owner, you can never stop learning or giving back.

Food styling may have a glamorous side, but as a freelancer, I

Kersti Bowser is owner of Gourmet Butterfly Media & Special Events.

Food the Founding Father’s Way The Real Deal

It means everything to Colonial

In truth, Rhys has to climb up a tall, rickety ladder and reach for

Williamsburg Executive Chef Rhys

the uppermost branches. But he happily risks life and limb (no pun

Lewis ’77 that he can walk up to the

intended) to be sure that the jam he is producing for visitors is filled

original and still-thriving plum tree

with history and is the real deal.

planted outside the home of George

That’s the philosophy woven throughout every Colonial

Wythe—leader of the patriot movement,

Williamsburg experience in Virginia—it has to be the real deal.

delegate to the Continental Congress,

When the foodways staff interprets 18th century life by cooking

and signer of the Declaration of

authentic food using colonial tools in an historically accurate

Independence—and pluck fruit from the

setting, it’s the real deal. When Rhys reimagined the site’s

branches to make plum jam.

18th century taverns, with working kitchen gardens planted by

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

garden at colonial williamsburg

culinary apprentices, it’s to make them more authentic. From the

profile with notes of cinnamon, orange zest, annatto seed, chili

heirloom varietals used in the 90 acres of gardens in Colonial

pepper, clove, and star anise. He and Colonial Williamsburg

Williamsburg’s Historic Area to a seed-saver program that ensures

reached out to Mars Chocolate North America to further explore

an authentic future—it’s all the real deal.

chocolate’s rich history in the Americas and to create a historic

When Rhys was named executive chef for the entirety of Colonial Williamsburg, he knew how challenging and important it would be to transform 18th century ingredients for the 21st century palate. “There wasn’t a lot of variety back then because the average colonist lived absolutely seasonally,” Rhys explains. “They ate whatever was in abundance, which often meant eating

recipe. In partnership with Mars, UC Davis, and Fort Ticonderoga, Colonial Williamsburg formed the Colonial Chocolate Society. American Heritage Chocolate is the result of that collaboration. Made with all-natural ingredients, American Heritage Chocolate is an authentic historic recipe that shares the same characteristics as chocolate made in 18th century.

the same thing over and over for weeks at a time.” Pickling and

A program Rhys and his colleagues have introduced ensures

preserving, along with the winter garden (Virginia has a moderate

that the history of Virginia’s food culture lives on. At Colonial

climate), gave some variety to the meals. Today, with the help of

Williamsburg’s Taste Studio, guests experience a garden tour and

the foodways department, Rhys and the Colonial Williamsburg

tasting on such topics as Lessons of Lavender, Banking on Swiss

culinary team incorporate 18th century recipes and terminology

Chard, and Peas and Carrots—Friends Forever. It is here that the

into the Williamsburg restaurant menus so guests can experience

chefs make the connection between the native plants available to

the flavors of the past created using modern techniques.

the colonists and their modern interpretation.

Chef Rhys has been inspired and influenced by the rich trove of

The rich immersion in history found at Colonial Williamsburg is

information Colonial Williamsburg researchers have unearthed.

thrilling for anyone who has had the opportunity to visit there. And

The late Jim Gay, a foodways interpreter who researched what

Rhys’ passion for helping guests understand the connection between

chocolate was like in the 1700s, discovered it had an Aztec-like

history and the food they are enjoying is, well, the real deal.

mise en place no.67, October 2014

A Career for Life Creating a Lifestyle

“There are so many options outside of

decided she just had to come to the CIA. “The PLY program

restaurants for culinary professionals. If

at the college was just fabulous for me,” Maureen explains. “It

creativity is what first tempted you into

immersed me in one topic at a time and I was able to retain so

the kitchen, I encourage you to explore

much information.” But her classes were only part of what shaped

the many artistic outlets available in the

Maureen’s future. She took advantage of everything. She was a tour

culinary arts.” These words, spoken by

guide, which taught her people skills. Thrived in her front-of-house

lifestyle and media expert Maureen

course, where she built her confidence. Helped start the Brewer’s

Petrosky ’99, could be considered the

Club, which tapped into her entrepreneurial spirit. Became an MIT

maxim of her entire professional life.

in American Bounty, which taught her leadership. And worked in

The author of two books, she is also

the Publishing Department on campus, where she learned what

a professional chef; instructor; food stylist; former contributing

went into a good recipe and a great book. All these things gave her

editor of Bon Appétit; creative consultant for The Smithsonian

the confidence to create the externship of her dreams—at the Food

and NIKE; writer for The Kitchn, an online lifestyle site; editor of

Network, no less!

makerlifestyle.com; television personality; and successful lifestyle “guru.” Maureen might be called an entrepreneur, but she just sees herself as creative, savvy, and flexible in her approach to work— carving out a career that satisfies her interests, talents, family, and personality.

At the time, the Food Network was not an externship site for the CIA. But Maureen and classmate Megan Collmeyer ’99 pressed on and got the externship site approved. There has been no stopping her since. Her work life has evolved as her interests and the media have changed. Sometimes serendipity played a role in

It all began after she received her bachelor’s degree from

the direction of her career, like when she was teaching in Atlanta

Villanova University. Always drawn to the culinary world, she

and someone from CNN came into the classroom offering her the opportunity to go on TV and demonstrate how viewers could open and pour their bottles of New Year’s Eve Champagne. From there, her television career blossomed. Her consumer-friendly segments can be seen on NBC’s Today show, where she offers quick and fun ways to have everything from a kid-friendly New Year’s Eve Party to making red, white, and blue drinks for July 4th celebrations. Her most recent occupation has been writing her new book, The Cocktail Club, the second in her “Club” series. Following the format of a book club, Maureen offers a month-by-month look at a specific spirit. For example, May is whiskey month, so besides the classic Manhattan and Old Fashioned recipes, Maureen walks her “club members” through making new libations like the Kentucky Corpse Reviver and the White Peach Julep. Each chapter suggests complementary finger foods that pair beautifully with the drinks. The book is gorgeous (see page 25), beautifully organized and photographed, and filled with information and lifestyle tips. Maureen was asked to participate at the CIA’s first Beverage Symposium, held on the Hyde Park campus this past May. She was a natural choice, not just because of her book, but because she holds a certification from the Master Court of Sommeliers. She loved having the opportunity to discuss the growing trends in beverages at her alma mater. It was just one more opportunity in a career that fits the style of her life.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Finding My Way to Food Knowing Yourself

By Chandra Ram ’99 When I tell people about my career path, it sounds very well thought out. I worked in restaurants, studied journalism in college, cooked in restaurants, went to culinary school,

ever measure out a quarter teaspoon of salt for a sauce. But I knew kitchen work ethics; especially those that dictated that cooks who came in early and stayed late to learn new things got ahead, and that the people who weren’t afraid to try new things earned respect from others. So that’s what I did.

worked as a consulting chef, took jobs

It turns out it was a combination of fearless networking and dumb

in food marketing and communications,

luck that sent me along a path that turned out to be right for me.

got freelance food writing gigs, got hired

Writing about food has a lot in common with working the line in a

as a food editor, worked, worked harder,

restaurant. The job is ideal for perfectionists who are rarely pleased,

worked more. In retrospect, it’s exactly what I would suggest

and relish the opportunity to regularly start fresh with a blank

others interested in food writing and editing do. But like most

canvas, with another order in, or in my case, another piece to write.

people, I didn’t know where life would take me when I started at

What we do has to balance art and technique—whether it’s plating

the CIA in 1997. When my classmates and I talked about jobs, we

and food science for a cook, or prose and grammar for a writer.

focused on those that involved cooking or running a restaurant or

Managing a kitchen and editing a magazine have similarities. Each

other foodservice operations. I thought I might pursue catering or

requires an eye for both the big picture and the smallest detail, the

see if I could do some recipe testing for cookbooks on the side.

patience to lead other people, and an appreciation for managing the

But one of the great things about working in the food world

business behind the craft you are trying to create.

is there are any number of things you can do with the right

I think finding the right career path starts with understanding who

education and experience. You can try several different

you are, what inspires you, and how you work. I feel very lucky

opportunities before figuring out what is right, or wrong, for you.

about where I am today and that I was able to carve out a place in

Working for a caterer while I was in school showed me that I had

the food world that is right for me. There are undoubtedly a few

no desire to ever again calm an overwrought mother of the bride

twists ahead—the world is changing too fast—and life’s too short to

facing last-minute menu requests. It was a freelance opportunity

pass up opportunities. But like most of us in the food world, I know

testing recipes that reminded me I was much more of a free-form,

it’s all worth it.

throw-in-the-extra-garlic kind of cook, not one who would actually

Chandra Ram is editor of Plate magazine.

Creating a Career One Pixel at a Time Digital Production Manager/Content Developer

When Patrick Decker ’04 graduated

Custer. But after two years, he found himself restless. He was in

from the CIA, he hung around on

the media business to be sure, a major area of interest, but he was

campus. No, he wasn’t loitering; he

becoming increasingly fascinated with digital technology and the

was stepping onto the first rung of his

web environment.

career ladder in the college’s Publishing

Here is where Patrick took the plunge. He cut himself loose from

Department. While there, Patrick

the security of a day-to-day job with Rachael Ray and ventured

worked on cookbooks, tested recipes,

into the freelance world as a content developer for food and

wrote captions, and managed the art

lifestyle publishers in all media. “It was terrifying to go freelance,”

for editorial projects. Talented and

Patrick explained. “But I wasn’t going to grow if I wasn’t pushing

dedicated, he was soon snapped up by

myself.” And so began the work of putting together a “piecemeal”

Rachael Ray for her Emmy-award-wining daytime talk show.

career in which he had to create the kinds of opportunities he

Food styling was part of Patrick’s skill set—especially after taking

wanted for himself. He did more food styling for Not My Mama’s

a course and earning a certificate from renowned stylist Delores

Meals; developed content for Rachael Ray Digital, LLC; was the

mise en place no.67, October 2014

curriculum developer for Le Cordon Bleu’s Bleu Ribbon Kitchens;

through execution and reporting of the company’s digital food

and blogged for the Cooking Channel’s recipe and food blog,

brands. He collaborates with editorial, design, engineering,

Devour.

marketing, social media sales, and on-air teams to produce a 360°

Simultaneously, Patrick, along with his husband Stephan

digital experience for viewers. He is in his element.

Hengst ’97, was establishing the highly successful website

To those who want to craft their own career, he suggests starting a

BigGayHudsonValley.com with the goal of helping the Valley’s LGBT community stay connected and support each other. They maintain a digital repository of business listings and a calendar of local happenings, and planned events to bring people together to raise funds for other nonprofits. All of his work ultimately netted him a position at Scripps

blog. He recommends learning to use still and video cameras, and creating well-written pieces that showcase great storytelling and have compelling visual content. “A blog is a great way of putting a portfolio together,” Patrick says. “It’s your calling card.” The road to his current success was filled with great learning

Networks Interactive, which owns FoodNetwork.com,

experiences, courageous leaps into the unknown, lots of self-

CookingChanneltv.com, and Food.com. Finally, he is in the

motivation, and the ability to present himself and his work to

pixelated world he had been aiming for. Today, as digital

advantage. For Patrick, life in digital production is the culmination

production manager, Patrick manages production from kickoff

of a dream, one he built for himself, one pixel at a time.

Drawing Parallels

Design with a Culinary Perspective By Aleanna Luethi-

Paramount in this culinary experience was my discovery that food

Garrecht ’03

could have hierarchical layers of importance in order to craft a

I have always been a graphic

successful result. What is primary, what plays a secondary role, and

designer by trade; someone

what perhaps is the tertiary expression that becomes a component

who manages the visuals of

in the food being made? I was so involved in this new media of food

type and image to convey

that I barely noticed my looming graduation date or the job offers

ideas and messages. This work

that were coming in. I ended up working in the food industry for

divides my time between an active design studio and a teaching commitment. As a

to my graphic design projects and career.

practicing graphic designer, I

Today, I maintain my own design office and have a multitude of

relied heavily on sight, sound,

professional projects, some of which are restaurant branding and

and tactile senses to envision

menu design. I also teach full-time at a university. I often find

and create pieces. I often wondered how I could sharpen my

myself presenting graphic design principles using explanations that

other, less-used senses. What kind of training would assist me in

are culinary-minded. Everyone understands the universality of

enhancing all the human senses that I have?

food, so teaching this way is both powerful and memorable. When

My idea of how to accomplish this was unusual, and would turn out to be extremely demanding. I wanted to enroll at the CIA. I wanted to learn and go beyond the aspect of cooking fundamentals to understand and develop my less-practiced senses of taste and

a class project is about restaurant identity and menu design, we discuss the size of type, the shapes of letterforms, the spacing and readability of lines, and the hierarchy of elements of the page. That is typical for designers. What is special is our discussion of food and

smell.

the parallels between food and design, and the total participation

If looked at closely, the design and culinary professions are quite

results are enhanced by embracing the relationship between the

closely related. They share the activities of gathering elements, working through a creative process, and arriving at a refined result that makes a statement. Beyond the physicality of preparation— speed and timing—I began to appreciate the role of food’s shape,

two years, honing my culinary skills and senses before turning back

of students as they share their food memories. The projects’ final design and culinary worlds. Mine is not the typical result of an education at The Culinary Institute of America, but it is a lively and satisfying one for me.

size, texture, color, temperature, balance, mouth feel, and taste.

Aleanna Luethi-Garrecht was an assistant professor at SUNY New

I was propelled forward by the idea that what one could make and

Paltz. Sadly, before publication she passed away. We honor her memory by

combine was endless.

printing her piece as she would have wished.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Cooking Up Cookbook Success One Woman’s Recipe

Everyone knows who Sara Moulton ’77

on the PBS show Julia Child & More Company. Her friendship with

is. Starting in 1996, she was the face of

Julia Child opened the door to a stint on Good Morning America.

the Food Network on her daily show,

From there, it was on to the Food Network, where she produced

Cooking Live. Her goal was always to be

1,200 episodes of Cooking Live and then 300 episodes of Sara’s

the “kitchen shrink, the fixit person”

Secrets. She is now in the fourth season of her PBS show, Sara’s

for home cooks, helping them get

Weeknight Meals.

dinner on the table for their families. Her name became synonymous with excellence, warmth, and accessible recipes. Her show was so successful that she was approached to write her first cookbook. “They told me, ‘this is your time, make the most of it,’” Sara explains. “And I was plunged into the world of cookbook writing.” She certainly had the culinary chops to write a book. Sara had spent seven years working in high-end kitchens in Boston, France, and New York City. For 25 years she worked at Gourmet magazine, first in the test kitchens and then as executive chef of the magazine’s dining room. She started her television career working

Sara believes when writing cookbooks you have to consider your audience, your topic focus has to be crystal clear, and your organization has to be akin to mise en place on steroids! Here’s Sara’s recipe for cookbook writing success: • Insist on a full year to write the book so you are not rushed. • Make sure your focus is clear in your mind and you don’t stray. • Keep track of the ingredients you use and how often you use them to make sure you don’t overdo it with one ingredient in the overall book. If your book has recipes from all over the world, make sure there is a balance of cuisines. Make a chart to keep track of the ingredients and the cuisine types. • Don’t work on a chapter from start to finish because it can stifle creativity. Chip away at the book as a whole, adding a recipe to one chapter and then another recipe to a different chapter. • Write the recipe on the computer the way you think it should work, then print it and test it. Note changes you’ve made to the recipe for each round of testing you do. Print out new versions and keep them all together as you progress. • Finish the recipe, then write the head notes and sidebars once you are satisfied. • Keep a list of user-friendly sidebars you want to add as you finish the recipe. It might be a technique, discussion of equipment, or introduction of an ingredient. • Writing is key. Cookbooks that don’t give guidance aren’t useful. You want to help people learn to cook. This approach has served Sara well. She has written three cookbooks—Sara Moulton Cooks at Home, Sara’s Secrets for Weeknight Meals, and Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners. All have been hugely successful with her loyal audience. Sara believes that the traditional reason for buying a cookbook is long gone. “People can choose from thousands of recipes on the Internet,” she says. “The cookbook of today is more of a book you read, peruse, and enjoy in much the way you do a novel. That is why telling a story and writing well is so important.”

mise en place no.67, October 2014

Recipe Testing

It’s Not About Personal Taste By Kathryn Conrad ’99

A successful recipe tester has to have a solid foundation of culinary

I have been testing recipes for more

techniques, an aptitude for problem solving, patience, attention

than a decade and I have to tell you, my

to detail, and the discipline to think objectively. One of the most

experience with recipe testing has made

difficult challenges in recipe testing is to not exert personal taste.

me a better and more creative cook, a far more insightful recipe developer, and an even more effective food stylist.

coming to the CIA, my first professional-level experience came in the form of a student job testing recipes for a new addition of

The ultimate role of a tester is to take

the CIA’s The Professional Chef. I came to the CIA with a degree

a raw recipe from a developer and

in English and a certainty that I would pursue food writing as a

translate it into a recipe that retains the

career. That initial testing experience opened my eyes to some

developer’s intent, satisfies the anticipated audience, and yields the

really interesting possibilities that I had not considered. After

same results time after time.

graduation I was lucky enough to land a position in the test

Let’s say a mainstream magazine asks you to test some salad recipes. The guidelines for the story include a request for simple techniques and easy-to-find ingredients. You receive four recipes and make them exactly according to the original directions. All of the recipes are delicious and the methods work—but one recipe calls for blood orange vinegar and another requires a lot of very precise knife work. At a minimum, it is your job as a tester to record your findings and identify potential problems. Depending on the specific job, you might be asked to suggest substitutions for the blood orange vinegar (maybe Champagne vinegar would be acceptable) or offer a simpler option for the knife work (maybe “finely chopped” instead of “brunoise” would work), and to retest the recipes with those changes. You may or may not be editing the recipe to match a specific style—that will differ from job to job—but you will have to communicate the written recipe in a way that is absolutely clear and precise.

While I dabbled in recipe development and testing before ever

kitchens of Cooking Light magazine. I spent an invaluable eight years there truly grounding myself in culinary technique and ingredient use. The discipline of testing taught me how to replace guessing with precise problem solving and to think way outside of my personal taste. I am now the senior food stylist for Taste of Home, the largest cooking magazine in the world with a circulation of more than 3 million. Our recipes are submitted by readers and represent a wide variety of home cooks and their styles. Because of my previous experience, I understand that when the TOH test kitchen hands off a recipe, it is true to the reader who submitted it and will work for the readers who will make it. Understanding that relationship also tells me, as a stylist, that I am reading an accurate representation of the recipe developer’s original intent and taste and I can style accordingly. Thanks to the testing process, I don’t have to guess. Kathryn Conrad is senior food stylist for Taste of Home magazine.

Following the Presidential Trail Leading by Design

3D Printing Initiative with SUNY New Paltz

In his job, President Tim Ryan makes hundreds of decisions,

Tim recently went to visit Dr. Don Christian, president of the State

initiates and oversees countless projects and proposals, and

University of New York (SUNY), New Paltz. While on campus, Dr.

seeks to advance the college’s best interests and secure its future.

Christian gave Tim a tour of the facilities, including the college’s

While some things that take place on our campuses might be

Center for 3D Printing.

attributed to serendipity, you can be sure that Tim is leading by design. Thought and strategy go into every decision he makes, and all have the CIA’s interests at heart.

Passing the Torch Last year, Tim was the recipient of the 2013 UCLA Restaurant Industry Conference

In recent months, SUNY New Paltz has received major funding to establish the Hudson Valley Advanced Manufacturing Center on its campus. The Center is focused on the advancement of 3D printing with the goal of making the Hudson Valley a hub of economic activity for this new technology. MakerBot, one of the leading 3D printing companies in the world, and SUNY New Paltz announced the creation and launch of the MakerBot Innovation Center there.

Innovation Award.

Tim and Dr. Christian discussed the project and possible

This year, board

collaborations between our two colleges around 3D printing.

member, friend, and world-renowned chef Thomas Keller was

Tim is working on ways we can start to engage our faculty in the

acknowledged with the Innovation Award for his contributions

discussions about such a collaboration.

to the evolving landscape of the food, beverage, and restaurant industry. It seemed fitting that Tim was asked to conduct an interview with Chef Keller for the 400 conference attendees. They had a lively and candid conversation. We all congratulate Chef Keller on this well-deserved recognition.

Design Team Meeting At any given time, Tim is working with numerous design professionals and artists to not only enhance the aesthetics and functionality of our campuses, but also to create learning environments for our students and a strong brand identity for the college. Recently CIA Creative Director Adam Tihany, sculptor Jorge Blanco, our landscape architect Diane Devore, and legendary graphic artist Milton Glaser were all on campus at the same time! Tim hosted a lunch where they could meet and discuss art, design, the creative process, and, of course, their ongoing work with the CIA.

dr. don christian and president ryan

mise en place no.67, October 2014

At a time when “local” and “sustainable” are the watchwords of all culinarians and the public at large, there is no better way to acquire a natural sweetener than to tap a tree. You can be sure that, with a campus of

Naturally Sweet

be used in Chef Greweling’s classes and incorporated into desserts at the CIA’s restaurants on campus. This year’s harvest netted a dark syrup. It was suggested by the

approximately 170 acres, much

team that the long, harsh winter,

of it wooded, the college is in

which resulted in tree tapping

possession of a number of sugar

late in the season, was the reason

maples. Up until now, these trees

the resulting syrup was darker

have been left alone to grow,

and had a stronger flavor than

shade passersby, and provide

most people are used to.

us with a splendid display of

Looking ahead to next year,

color in the fall. But this winter, two of our professors decided it

four gallons of syrup, which will

Students tap trees on campus

Chef Greweling hopes to set

was time to utilize the resources

up an outdoor sugar shack so

in our own backyard to teach

boiling the sap can take place

an important lesson. Students,

amongst the trees, which is how

all of whom hailed from Chef

it’s traditionally done. “Making

Peter Greweling’s Chocolate

maple syrup is a natural fit for

and Confectionery Technology

our students; it is as much an

and Techniques class and Dr.

integral part of the culture of

Deidre Murphy’s Ecology of

the Hudson Valley as making

Food bachelor’s degree course,

wine is in California,” said Chef

volunteered to take part in

Greweling. He is hoping to use

harvesting sap to make maple

this experience to develop an

syrup—a first for the college.

undergraduate course at the

The students helped tap 16 maple trees on the north side of campus; moving through each phase of the

CIA that will include the history, culture, and technology of maple syrup making. A sweet idea!

process from tapping, collecting the sap, boiling, straining, and testing to bottling the resulting syrup. “It is pretty miraculous to watch the nearly clear, barely sweet sap transform into rich, sweet syrup through the process of evaporation,” says Chef Greweling. It can take up to five gallons of sap to produce just one gallon of syrup. The intrepid team of students and faculty produced

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Comes to the CIA The Hollywood feature film Chef that opened

surprised and thrilled when Jon Favreau

in May of this year was a real success,

spoke to them via Skype.

especially with CIA

“Roy was hoping to send me to the CIA’s

students. It was

Hyde Park campus to study for, like, six

written and directed

months. But that’s not the way the movie

by Jon Favreau,

business works,” Favreau told students.

who also plays Chef

“But it shows you how highly he thinks

Carl Casper, a chef

of the CIA, and I’m really honored to

who suddenly quits his

be showing the movie here.”

job at a prominent Los

He was delighted to get guidance

Angeles restaurant after

from a CIA graduate. “By following

refusing to compromise his creative integrity for its

in Chef Choi’s footsteps and doing

controlling owner, played

the preparation exactly as he taught me, I got insight into his

by Dustin Hoffman. Finding himself in Miami, he teams

mind,” Favreau said. “I love the

up with his ex-wife (Sofia

discipline of being a chef. I love

Vergara), his friend ( John

the organization of it. I love the

Leguizamo), and his son to

culture of it. Most Hollywood

launch a food truck. He intends

movies get it wrong. I really took some time to show

to go back to his roots to reignite

what the cooking is about.”

his passion for the kitchen and his zest for life.

After having the unique

To prepare for his role as a chef,

experience of learning

Favreau was trained by CIA grad

how to cook from an

Roy Choi ’98. A pioneer in the food

alumnus, Favreau told students that when he created

truck movement in L.A., where his Mexican tacos filled with Korean-

the off-camera “back story” for his

style BBQ made him a legend,

character he made sure to include

Roy acted as a technical adviser

the fact that Carl Casper was a

for the movie’s cooking scenes.

CIA graduate.

Before Chef premiered nationally,

We were delighted to be able

more than 1,500 students at our

to offer such a fun and unique

U.S. campuses took advantage of

experience to so many of our

a rare opportunity to see the film

students. It was a great way to

during special previews. At one

help inaugurate our glorious new

of the previews, students were mise en place no.67, October 2014

students on their way in to see chef

Ecolab Auditorium in the Marriott Pavilion.

Beverage Trendsetters By Ezra Eichelberger Trends are more easily followed than predicted and are terribly

purveyors—like the man who fishes all night and delivers the fish to

difficult to start. That said, a panel of real trendsetters convened at the

the kitchen door himself—or introducing his guests to a little-known

CIA’s first Beverage Symposium held in the new Marriott Pavilion.

wine from a small boutique winery that has a charming story.

The panel, moderated by symposium organizer Professor Douglass Miller ’89, included Maureen Petrosky ’99, a lifestyle expert often seen on NBC’s Today show; Alex Wolf, general manager of JeanGeorges Restaurant in New York City; Eric Ottoway, general manager of the Brooklyn Brewery; Brian Van Flandern, cocktail consultant and former mixologist at Per Se in New York City; and Ralph Erenzo, co-

Eric Ottoway added that when he began planning for the Brooklyn Brewery, he had to overcome many hurdles and defy the naysayers about his ideas, his product, his location, and his business. Trendsetters must be persistent, believe in themselves, and be willing to accept a few failures to learn from along the way.

founder of Tuthilltown Spirits in Gardiner, NY.

Towards the end of the event, everyone agreed when Maureen said,

Ms. Petrosky, whose primary audience is the home consumer, began

making wine, cooking a meal, or serving.”

the discussion noting that the current trend in beverages reflects the trends in food. “It’s all about flavor,” she explains. “People want to know where the flavor comes from, and that is helping the cocktail culture to explode. Cocktails need to be beautiful, accessible, and easy to make. Everyone wants a cocktail shaker now.” When Brian Van Flandern began as mixologist at Per Se, he was inspired by Thomas Keller to continue the farm-to-table concept at the bar. Brian found that by using fresh, local ingredients, he added to “the story” the servers could tell customers about the drink. This made it more personal, something customers are looking for. If servers can talk knowledgeably with the guests about which local farm grew

“It’s all about the craft—the craft of making beer, mixing a cocktail,

Other panel discussions that day included “Becoming a Sommelier,” “Life Behind the Bar,” “From the Kitchen to the Front of House,” and “The Distiller’s Life,” which included several Hudson Valley distillers. Solo sessions included Maureen Petrosky’s “Wine & Spirits in Today’s Media,” Eric Ottoway’s “Life in a Brewery,” and “A Tasting of Cocktail Bitters” with Joe Fee of Fee Brothers Bitters. Students responded with enthusiasm and were completely engaged at the symposium. This highly successful event is sure to be one of the first of many in our new Marriott Pavilion. Ezra Eichelberger is professor of hospitality and service management at the CIA.

the mint or the small private grove where the olives were handpicked, the meal becomes more meaningful. “This knowledge has spread across the heartland,” Brian explains. “Bartenders all over the U.S. are digging deep into spirits. Everyone wants to learn more about how they are made and the reasons for the differences in quality or characteristics of the products they are using.” As the general manager of a busy, high-end restaurant like Jean-Georges, Alex Wolf has to make sure he stays current with food, beverage, and service trends. His purchasing must reflect the needs of an increasingly savvy public. Here too, backstory gives the diner a peek into where his or her food comes from, and gives the server a sense of ownership of the products or dishes. Alex helps create this connection by providing the servers with the backgrounds of individual

left to right: ralph erenzo, alex wolf, eric tootway, brian van flandern, maureen petrosky, and douglass miller at podium

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RUDD CENTER FOR PROFESSIONAL WINE STUDIES TEN YEARS OF WINE EDUCATION It’s been a decade since the Rudd Center, a state-of-the-art venue for studying wine and food in the heart of the Napa Valley, opened its doors. During that time, countless students have entered the historic Still House at the CIA at Greystone to enhance their knowledge of wine. There, we have been able to provide innovative education programs, including a groundbreaking farm-to-table Conservatory Restaurant; host some of the leading names in the wine business; and educate the next generation of master sommeliers and other wine and beverage leaders. We are particularly proud of the outstanding 93% pass rate our wine program graduates have achieved in the Court of Master Sommeliers Level II exam. That’s a very real testament to the rigor and quality of a CIA wine education. Let’s take a look at the changes and additions that have taken place at the Rudd Center over the last decade…

2003

2004

2006

2007

Opening of the Rudd Center for

First Robert M. Parker, Jr. Wine

CIA culinary arts degree

Inaugural Vintners Hall of Fame

Professional Wine Studies and

Advocate Tasting to support

students receive more than 60

induction ceremony and event

launch of the Certified Wine

The Wine Advocate Endowed

hours of wine instruction

to celebrate the men and women

Professional Credential™

Scholarship Fund—now fully

who have been responsible

endowed at one million dollars

for the growth and worldwide prestige of the California wine industry

2009

2010

2013

Release of Greystone Cellars —

First class of the Accelerated

Advanced Wine, Beverage, and

first produced in 1995 by

Wine and Beverage Certificate

Hospitality Concentration for

Markham Vineyards and then

Program—delivering 600 hours

the bachelor’s degree program,

launched nationally by Terlato

of wine and beverage instruction

created to provide upper-

Wines International, with a

over a 30-week period

level wine and spirits studies,

portion of the proceeds from

principles of mixology, and event

sales benefitting the CIA at

beverage service and planning

Greystone

Biodynamic Viticulture Growing Wines Sustainably and Holistically By Christie Dufault, ACWP, CHE

ine is an agricultural product; this we know. Some people also believe that wine is a gift from nature. Because of this close relationship of wine with earth and climate, many people carefully consider the natural factors in wine production when choosing a bottle to drink. In other words, in addition to the taste and style of wines, many wine lovers also question how the grapes were farmed and how the wine was produced. Because biodynamic wine farming is one of the practices that some wine drinkers value highly, we as food and wine professionals need to understand the principles behind the practice.

Everything in the Vineyard Matters Biodynamics is not a new movement. It has, in fact, been practiced in many countries since its promotion in the first part of the 20th century by Austrian scholar, philosopher, and social reformer Rudolph Steiner. Mr. Steiner didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly create a new way of farming; rather, he defined an already existing one and helped solidify biodynamicsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; legitimacy. Biodynamic agriculture takes long-term, sustainable approaches to farming. It is a method of organic

farming that emphasizes the holistic development of and interrelationships between the soil, plants, and animals as a self-sustaining system. In other words, biodynamics views every part of the whole as essentialâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;every part of the farm, or, in the case of viticulture, every part of a vineyard. So the vines are as important as the soil and the climate and the water and the animals and the microorganisms, as are all of their relationships to one another.

Biodynamic vs. Conventional Farming This approach to agriculture is different from conventional farming. Simply put, in a conventionally farmed, non-organic vineyard, a farmer may see crop yield as the priority. He will do everything, including using herbicides and pesticides, to maximize yield at the risk of the health of other elements like the plant and the soil. Biodynamic agriculture, on the other hand, employs an approach that works to promote the health of all of the elements that affect the vineyard. At the very core of the biodynamic principle is integration.

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Mike Benziger and his family own the Demeter-certified (more on that later) Benziger Vineyards in Sonoma County, CA. Mike, who penned the foreword for one of the most definitive books on biodynamic viticulture, Biodynamic Wine, Demystified by Nicholas Joly, further explains the approach. “Biodynamics is, at its core, an energy management system. When practiced rightly, it brings a dynamic balance to the land, enabling the winegrower to realize the maximum potential for that vintage,” he says. “This is because a vine tended under these conditions becomes more than a plant responding to stimuli; it becomes a super-sensitive life form with the ability to order and organize energies that manifest themselves as varietal character, place, vintage, and even intentionality.”

Biodynamic Farming Practices Viticultural farming practices commonly used in biodynamics include: • Utilizing fully organic applications. • Eschewing all unnatural chemicals. • Composting. • Planting symbiotic cover crops. • Integrating beneficial animals, birds, and insects in the vineyard. • Using recycled and recovered water. • Managing the vineyard with the cycles of the seasons and solar system and with the phases of the moon. In biodynamics, every day of the year aligns with a fruit, root, leaf, or flower day. This calendar represents how all plants grow and develop according their relationship to the Earth and the entire constellation system. Again, more than anything, it demonstrates how the components of the natural world always have been and always will be deeply connected.

Becoming Certified Biodynamic There are specific wine regions where biodynamic viticulture is common. Regions like Alsace in France and the Wachau in Austria have higher numbers of certified biodynamic vineyards, although this is gradually changing as more and more wine producers recognize the benefits and positive results in biodynamic wines. The organization that regulates and certifies biodynamics in commercial industries is Demeter. Interestingly, in addition to vineyards, Demeter certifies many agricultural products, including coffee, tea, dairy, fruits, vegetables, nuts, grains, and livestock. Not surprisingly, the standards for Demeter certification are very high—in the case of viticulture, the proposed vineyard must already meet the standards for USDA Organic Certification. This process can often take years to accomplish; after all, changes to most farming practices simply take considerable time to implement.

mise en place no.67, October 2014

Yet more and more grape growers around the globe are taking the time and making the effort to learn these practices and transition into biodynamic viticulture. In some cases, they were already practicing organic viticulture, and moving towards fully biodynamic integration felt like the right next step. Owners Bob and Louisa Lindquist of Qupe Vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley appellation of the Central Coast of California instinctively knew that their vineyard would thrive with biodynamics. Indeed, they have been making wines for three decades, and have seen vineyards and tasted wines produced with both conventional farming methods and full organics and biodynamics. They understood their land, they were familiar with biodynamics, and they believed that it was the right thing to do for the future. After years of farming organically, they converted to full biodynamics gradually and were certified by Demeter in 2009.

Grown with a Generous Spirit The wines of Qupe Vineyards are always full-flavored, balanced, and delicious. They also benefit from a spirit of generosity among biodynamic wine growers around the world, many of whom have shared their expertise with the Lindquists. For example, Bob remains grateful to Steve Beckman of Beckman Vineyards (also located in the Central Coast) for encouraging him to go biodynamic and for teaching him best practices. After all, committing to biodynamics is just that—a long-term commitment. It is simply easier to grow grapes by unnatural manipulation. But grape growers who see and taste the beauty in biodynamic viticulture are generous types; they care to share and aspire for all to live in harmony. Christie Dufault is a wine and beverage instructor at the CIA at Greystone in St. Helena, CA. She holds an Advanced Certified Wine Professional credential from the CIA, is a Certified Hospitality Educator, and was named Best Wine Director by San Francisco magazine while working at Quince restaurant.

Certified Biodynamic Producers of note Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley, CA Benziger Vineyards and Winery, Sonoma, CA Bergstrom Vineyards, Willamette Valley, OR Bonterra Vineyards, Mendocino, CA Ceago Vineyards, Mendocino, CA Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace, France Grgich Hills, Napa Valley, CA Nikolaihof, Wachau, Austria Quivira Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, CA Qupe Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley, CA

Discovering Wine for Life The journey that Lulu McAllister ’12 took

on my research, the program was the most

to become wine director for the critically

well-organized one in the field,” she says. “And

acclaimed San Francisco restaurant Nopa took

given the CIA’s location in the heart of Napa,

her from northern California to Texas and

I assumed it would be a great opportunity to

back again.

move past the classroom into the vineyard to see how it all worked.”

In Lulu’s family, food was very important. “My mom went to the École de Cuisine La Varenne

There were other advantages as well. “Our

in France, so I grew up eating great food,” she

class was small so we developed close

says. “And on special occasions, we would be

relationships with our instructors,” Lulu said.

given little cups of watered-down wine.” All

“They knew our palates and styles, and were

this drew her to what she thought would be a

very pointed with their criticisms.” It was one

life in the culinary arts. She studied baking and

particular class assignment that confirmed

pastry at a school near Tiburon, CA, where

Lulu’s interest in Nopa. The students were

she stayed with her uncle. “We had alternating

asked to write a critical analysis of an existing

schedules, so we rarely saw each other. But, I

restaurant wine list. “When I was a college

would leave my uncle a pastry or chocolate on

student, I had eaten at Nopa many times and

the table and he would leave me an open bottle of wine—usually a French white Burgundy. It was during that time that I started to develop my wine palate.” Continuing her education at the University of San Francisco, Lulu pursued a degree in media studies and began writing restaurant reviews for the school paper. “As arts editor, I wrote about other topics, mainly music. It was the South by Southwest music festival that brought me to Austin, Texas,” she explained. “I loved the city, the vibe, and the great food, so I moved there on a lark without a job.” An ad for a position at Bending Branch Winery near Comfort, TX caught her eye. “It’s a family-run vineyard experimenting with organic techniques and grapes new to the region,” explains Lulu. “I was really drawn to the owners’ warmth and creativity. I realized I loved the wine culture, talking to customers, and being surrounded by grapevines. And I love the changeability; it’s always different, depending on the time of day, the setting, the food, or the company.” Seeking to expand her knowledge of wine, Lulu applied to the CIA Accelerated Wine and

“I was really drawn to the owners’ warmth and creativity. I realized I loved the wine culture, talking to customers, and being surrounded by grapevines. And I love the changeability; it’s always different, depending on the time of day, the setting, the food, or the company.”

really loved the restaurant,” she says. “They have a great list with so many wines—some from unexpected regions—and I found the list to be flawless.” When Lulu graduated with her CIA certificate, she went back to Nopa to apply for a job. “I gave them my essay along with my résumé,” she laughs. “I certainly think it helped!” Now, as the restaurant’s wine director, Lulu is busy scheduling tasting appointments, visiting wineries, placing orders, maintaining an active inventory, and educating the bartenders and servers. She looks forward to slowly influencing and creating a wine list using her own creativity, exploring different wine areas, finding the next up-and-coming small producers, and enjoying life in San Francisco!

Beverage Certificate Program (AWBP). “Based

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KUDOS

Alumni Win James Beard Awards The 2014 James Beard Foundation Awards, held each May in New York City, are considered the food world’s equivalent of the Academy Awards. Five CIA alumni won Beard awards in the chef, restaurant, and media categories: Anthony Bourdain ’78, TV Program on Location, Mind of a Chef Andrew Chabot ’02, Outstanding Wine Program (The Barn at Blackberry Farm, Walland, TN) Francis Lam ’03, Profile, A Day on Long Island with Alex Lee

John Besh ’92, owner of 10 restaurants and founder of the John Besh Foundation, and Sherry Yard ’91, renowned pastry chef and owner of the Helms Hall and Bakery, were among six new inductees into the Foundation’s “Who’s Who in Food & Beverage in America.”

Stephen Stryjewski ’96, Best New Restaurant (Pêche, New Orleans, LA) Sue Zemanick ’01, Best Chef: South (Gatreau’s, New Orleans, LA)

Food & Wine Awards When the 2014 Food & Wine People’s Best New Chefs were revealed, our alumni were among the winners! Matthew Accarrino ’98, SPQR, San Francisco, CA

MenuMasters Hall of Fame Susan Feniger ’77 and her business partner Mary Sue Milliken, the duo that made Too Hot Tamales a hit program in the early days of the Food Network, are the 2014 inductees into the MenuMasters Hall of Fame. Feniger and Milliken have been working together for three decades, starting Border Grill in Los Angeles, which has now expanded to include four brick-and-mortar locations and a Border Grill truck. MenuMasters Awards are presented by Nation’s Restaurant News to honor culinary creativity. Feniger and Milliken were recognized

Greg Denton ’96, Ox,

“both for elevating the conversation about Mexican food and their

Portland, OR

commitment to creating a sustainable food environment,” according to

Eli Kulp ’05, Fork,

Nation’s Restaurant News editors.

Philadelphia, PA Joe Ogrodnek ’02 & Walker Stern ’02, Battersby and Dover, Brooklyn, NY Justin Yu ’05, Oxheart, Houston, TX

Steels Tennis Team Takes Second Place Playing at the site of the U.S. Open Grand Slam tennis tournament— the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in Flushing Meadow, NY—the CIA tennis team took second place in the 2014 Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Men’s Tennis

The six CIA graduates, and other winners of this

Championships in May, finishing just behind Pratt

prestigious honor, were showcased at the Food

Institute in the team standings. Sophomores Kyle

& Wine Classic in Aspen this past summer and featured in the July issue of the magazine.

Felker and Jeremy Sawyer made the all-conference team. During the season, Felker and sophomore Zach Taylor were each honored as Player of the Week, and junior Fernando Nava and freshman Carlos Berti were each named Rookie of the Week. Rah Steels!

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Book Shelf The Cocktail Club By Maureen Christian-

Mediterranean Cooking By Lynne Gigliotti

Petrosky ’99 We all know what a book club is, but have you ever heard

’88 and The Culinary

of a cocktail club?

Institute of America

In her deliciously

For anyone who wants to eat healthier or explore the classic flavors of Mediterranean cooking, this handsomely produced book offers a reliable and invaluable guide to the region. The approximately 200 recipes are simple enough for home cooks, while still being representative of the flavors and techniques that define the Mediterranean approach to cooking. In addition to delicious recipes, the book includes thorough instructions on stocking a

photographed book The Cocktail Club, Maureen Petrosky takes your group of friends on a month-by-month journey to learn how to create delicious cocktails and the finger foods that go with them. From vodka to brandy, from tequila to whisky, and from gin to rum, each month highlights a spirit and walks you through easy-to-make, colorful drinks you can share with friends. Also included are hors d’oeuvre pairings that will make your club meetings a real hit.

pantry and mastering typically Mediterranean techniques and equipment.

Low & Slow By Robert Briggs and The Culinary Institute of America This essential primer connects the dots between braising, barbecuing, and

Pies and Tarts By Kristina Petersen Migoya ’03 Whether you’re an expert baker looking to perfect your craft or a novice seeking to master the basics, Pies

slow roasting

and Tarts is sure to

methods that

become one of your

utilize low temperature and long cooking times to produce succulent, intensely

most treasured volumes. This book features all the beloved classics like apple pie, lemon

flavorful cuts of meat. Nearly 100 delectable recipes span

meringue pie, French-style fruit tarts, pumpkin pie, and pecan

all seasons and almost every cut of meat. There is also key

pie. But it doesn’t stop there. You’ll want to try crowd-pleasers

information on making homemade rubs and sauces as well as

like Fudgy Walnut Brownie Pie and sophisticated new twists like

sides that will enhance every meal. If you are passionate about

Roasted Ginger Plum Tart. Mix and match the versatile crust

cooking meat, this may be the only book you’ll ever need.

recipes, and follow the suggested variations to play around with favorite ingredients or seasonal flavors. A chapter on savory dishes such as pot pies, empanadas, and quiches offers brilliant new options for entertaining or family dinners.

mise en place no.67, October 2014

Growing Up CIA

By Ron Hicks

Growing up in the Hudson Valley, the CIA has long been a part of

Whether at lunch in the Apple Pie Bakery Café or when I

my life. I grew up in and around its halls, and vividly remember my

represented then-New York Governor George Pataki during the

very first visit there when I was around the age of five. It was during

opening of Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, I’ve learned and

the summer. My best friend and neighbor, John Masi ’86, and I were

absorbed something new each and every minute I spent at the

bored, which when you are five years old equals mischief. John’s dad,

CIA. Not a week goes by when I haven’t either mentioned the CIA

CIA Heritage Professor Noble Masi, ever the patient and willing

in conversation, eaten delicious food prepared somewhere in the

educator, decided the best way to handle our mood was to keep us

world by a CIA graduate, or brought prospective developers or

occupied. He brought John and me to his “office” for a brief visit.

out-of-town guests to the campus.

I remember walking through what seemed to me at the time to be

The Culinary Institute of America is one of the Hudson Valley’s

cavernous halls of Roth Hall. Back then Roth Hall contained the entire

greatest assets. It’s a hub for tourism and economic development

school. When we got there, I was amazed to find kitchens instead of

that has provided me, and my friends, with wonderful experiences

offices, ovens instead of desks, and plates of food instead of papers

and opportunities. The college has surely benefited the community

and pens. I was intrigued, indeed.

I call home, so it was without hesitation that I decided to give back.

Just a few years later, I fondly remember Chef Masi teaching John, our

In 2012, when the CIA celebrated the many contributions of Chef

classmates, and me how to make gingerbread men. For me, this simple

Noble Masi and established the Masi-Buzzeo Scholarship, I was

and thoughtful project brought together the joy of working with my

honored and delighted to support the fund. This year, I decided to

hands, my creativity, and my love of food, and launched my interest

make a planned gift in my will to the CIA. It will help ensure the

in the culinary arts. Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity and

college continues to provide the world’s best professional culinary

privilege to be in the presence of the likes of Chef Masi, Chef Fritz

education well into the future.

Sonnenschmidt, and former President Ferdinand Metz. I always felt a little bit of awe for these men.

Ron Hicks is the deputy commissioner for strategic planning and economic development for Dutchess County in New York.

ron hicks with students

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Plan Your Legacy With a Will or Trust

The reasons that people make charitable bequests are as varied as the donors themselves. Perhaps one common denominator is a sincere desire to leave their mark and help others. For some, that means helping to sustain The Culinary Institute of America. Regardless of your life circumstances or estate size, your will is perhaps the most important document you will ever create. It expresses your values and effectively provides for the people and charitable causes that are important to you. If you’ve been putting it off, here are six important reasons why you need a will. 1. Without a will, the laws of your particular state—not you—determine how, when, and to whom your property is distributed. 2. A will helps you reduce or even eliminate future estate taxes. 3. You can name your executor—a person, bank, or trust company—to personally represent you and manage and settle your estate. 4. You can designate specific beneficiaries for

How do I put the CIA in my will? You can support the CIA through a gift in your will, which is flexible and revocable. You can structure the bequest to leave cash, securities, or property; make the gift contingent upon certain events; or leave a percentage of your estate to the CIA. If your estate is subject to estate tax, your gift is entitled to an estate tax charitable deduction for the gift’s full value. And, because you aren’t actually making the gift until after your lifetime, you can change your mind at any time.

Important reminder If you already have a will, make sure it’s upto-date. Life changes such as children reaching maturity; births, deaths or marriages; increased estate value; or a move to another state should be a trigger to meet with your estate planning attorney to review your will. If you’ve already placed the CIA in your will, please let us know. We’d like to include you in the CIA’s Society of the Millennium Legacy Club. We can help provide gift-planning information

items such as heirlooms, art, jewelry, or real

to you and your professional advisors at no cost

estate.

or obligation. Simply contact Brad Whitmore at

5. A will helps you create trusts to provide for your spouse, children, or others. 6. A will helps you protect your children by designating guardians for their future care.

mise en place no.67, October 2014

845-451-1460 or b_whitmo@culinary.edu. To learn more about the importance of your will, visit our website at www.ciachef.edu/plannedgiving.

Why Give?

The Sarrazin Family DeBragga & Spitler Endowed Scholarship Marc L. Sarrazin Memorial Endowed Scholarship Raised in the Charollais region of France, Marc L. Sarrazin began

regardless of their circumstances, if they received the proper training.

his love affair with the culinary world at his family’s restaurant

My father respected the work being done by The Culinary Institute

and hotel. At 16, he left school to learn the butchery trade, serving

of America and the passion for learning he saw every time he visited.

apprenticeships at butcher shops throughout France. In 1953, Sarrazin

That is what drives our desire to give in whatever way we can.

moved to New York and found work at the famous El Morocco restaurant. Clearly wanting to focus his attention on meats, he eventually joined DeBragga & Spitler, one of the finest meat purveyors

What makes giving meaningful?

in the industry. He moved up the ranks and, by 1973, became

The greatest joy we have is when we get to campus for a graduation

president of the company.

and see how proud these young men and women are of their own accomplishments. It is our pleasure to help them achieve their goals.

Regretting that he never finished school, Sarrazin took pride in deepening DeBragga & Spitler’s existing relationship with the CIA. Always an advocate for the college, he encouraged other organizations to support the CIA by creating their own scholarships. In 1982, Mr. Sarrazin joined the board of trustees of the college. Today, his wife, Renee and son, Marc J. Sarrazin, carry on the tradition of giving that was so important to him. It is Marc J. who speaks here about the family’s support of the CIA.

How do you give? We are fortunate that we have been able to endow two scholarships for the college: The Marc Sarrazin Endowed Scholarship and the DeBragga & Spitler Endowed Scholarship. It is a great source of pride for my family and our company that the legacy of giving will continue for years to come.

What motivates you to give? My father was a great supporter of young American chefs. He firmly believed that young men and women could become great chefs,

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Giving’s Impact

Katie Sanchez ’14

our classes to our dedicated alumni who support the externship or

AOS in Culinary Arts

enjoy all of the amazing speakers who come to the CIA. They do

Recipient:

demos and give talks about all aspects of the food industry and the

Marc L. Sarrazin Memorial Endowed Scholarship

Describe your life prior to coming to the CIA. Before coming to the CIA, I was living in Nashville, TN, where I attended Vanderbilt University. I received my bachelor’s degree in psychology and Spanish language and culture. Outside of school, I volunteered at the Nashville Humane Association, helping to socialize

mentorship programs, we have every tool we need to succeed. I really

world. My favorites have been food activist Sandor Katz and food innovator and chef Ferran Adrià.

What do you do outside of class? When I’m not in class work, I work almost full-time at PetSmart. I enjoy being able to get out of the kitchen and indulge my other passion by working around pets and people who want them. I also spend time with my own dogs, playing in the park or walking at the Vanderbilt

cats and dogs to get them ready for adoption.

Mansion and on the Rail Trail.

What motivated you to attend the CIA?

What are your plans for the future?

Shortly before graduating from Vanderbilt, I was trying to figure out

I plan to start a catering and event planning company after

what my next step would be. The natural move for someone in my

graduation. I really enjoy all of the organization and planning that

major would be to go for my master’s degree or go to medical school.

goes into that career. I also think it would be interesting to own a food

But I found that my studies really left me stressed out. Every night,

truck. It’s a good way for a chef to gauge the public’s reaction to their

I would get home and head into the kitchen to cook or bake, which

food concept before trying to open a brick-and-mortar establishment.

would always relax me. I eventually realized that the thing I really loved and gave me the most satisfaction was cooking. I knew of the

How has the scholarship program helped you?

CIA’s reputation as the best culinary school out there, so I looked into

I am paying for college myself with loans. So I am intensely grateful

it and decided to apply.

for all of the scholarships I have received. Every little bit I receive

What has been the best part of being at the CIA?

in the form of scholarships helps ease the burden. Plus, it is nice to be recognized for the hard work I am doing. I appreciate donors’

The best part of the CIA is the sheer amount of knowledge and

investment in my education and hope to pay that forward when I am

skill that is at our fingertips. From the amazing chef-instructors in

out in the world after graduation.

Steelite International A Shining Example of Giving

By Gail Jones

Chefs everywhere are raising the bar on the classic fine-dining experience.

in The Conservatory, the wine education program, The Bakery Café by illy, and for all

Strategically melding food, décor, service, and ambiance, they create a synergy

special events.

of all components of the experience, speaking to the demands of the increasingly sophisticated guest. Plating style and tabletop products are among the chef’s most personal tools in the expression of

Steelite has been creating award-winning tabletop products since 1983. The company’s core chinaware products are manufactured in its facility in Stoke-onTrent, England, which is “one of

his or her aesthetic vision.

the most modern and efficient

In June 2013, the CIA launched its

tableware production units in

American Food Studies: Farm-to-

the world,” according to Steelite

Table Cooking bachelor’s degree

International USA’s President

concentration directed by Larry

and CEO, John Miles. Steelite

Forgione ’74 at Greystone. The

produces around 500,000 pieces

Conservatory Restaurant in the

a week—80 percent for export. It

Williams Center for Flavor Discovery

has customers in 130 countries.

was opened to spotlight locally

The company has an innovative

sourced, sustainably produced

approach to environmental

ingredients. Steelite International’s

sustainability. In 2007, the

tabletop products were a natural

business became one of only five

choice for showcasing the food

companies in the U.K. to install a

created in this student-led

Lamella system for recycling clay

restaurant.

waste from the manufacturing

Dr. Victor Gielisse, the CIA’s vice

process, which, in the past, was

president of advancement and

sent to landfills at a rate of 350

business development, explained

tons per year. Steelite now recycles

the decision to use Steelite’s

90% of manufacturing waste,

product. “We like the elegant

and has been certified to the

design,” explained Dr. Gielisse. “And

ISO 14001:2004 Environmental

the unique thermal shock resistance

Management Standard (EMS)

and edge chip technologies make it

since the program’s introduction in

right for our program.”

1996. The company is a member of The Green Organisation, which

A partnership was born more

promotes environmental best

than 10 years ago when the CIA

practices around the world.

received its first gift from Steelite. The company’s support began with

“Steelite and the CIA are natural

sponsorships for the annual Worlds

partners; our core beliefs are very

of Flavor Conferences and expanded

much aligned. Both organizations believe that people are the most

with Gift-in-Kind of products. Since 2012, Steelite has been a regular sponsor of the annual Leadership Awards—the

important resource that any organization possesses; without investment in people,

“Augies.” In 2013, the company made its most generous gift to date with its three-

there is no future,” says John Miles. “When the CIA invited me to be a member

year pledge to supply all of The Conservatory’s china, flatware, and glassware.

of the college’s Society of Fellows, I believed it was an opportunity to invest in an

If that were not enough, the company is discussing an additional gift commitment to replace a substantial portion of the glassware inventory at the Greystone campus.

organization with like values.”

Gail Jones is CIA advancement officer, donor relations and stewardship.

This plan will standardize the style of glassware in use and simplify inventory control

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

’59

Ronald Brauman is president of C.B. Construction in

Uncasville, CT. After graduating from

’73

Edward A. Fisher is inspector/sanitation and safety

specialist for the Florida Department

the CIA, he went right into the cater-

of Business & Professional Regulation,

ing business but stayed only two years

Divisions of Hotel and Restaurants in

before changing direction and going into

Orlando, FL.

construction. At 80 years old, he is still working every day.

’61

Peter J. Washburne is a semi-retired chef/owner of

’74

Phyllis (Clark) Flaherty invites her classmates to join

her for their 40th reunion. Phyllis writes, “All of our friends will be there. It’s a

Washburne’s Catering in Angola, IN.

milestone for our careers as we are on

His hobbies include creative displays

the edge of retirement. Please contact the

for events and polishing hand-me-down

alumni office for details. See you in Hyde

dessert recipes.

Park in October in the beautiful Hudson Valley.”

’67

Richard R. Roy is a healthcare worker for The Lincoln

Home in Newcastle, ME, as well as a

’77

Robert W. Appleton is principal/consultant at Apple-

personal service provider for Home Care

ton Food Service Consulting, LLC in

for Maine.

Lee’s Summit, MO. Michael Heywang retired five years ago, though he occasion-

’68

Heinz K. Laue retired from JPMorgan Food Service after

32 years. He obtained his United States Coast Guard captains license and worked as a deckhand/captain for NY Waterways. He enjoys sailing and kayaking, and spends winters with his wife in Florida and California. He is grateful to be enjoy-

ally still caters parties. He would love to hear from friends and former coworkers who were at the old Rive Gauche Restaurant in Matteson, IL between 1977 and 1980.

’79

Joseph P. Alleva is kitchen

paula de pano ‘10 and christian tondre ‘10

manager for The Brass Key

ing retirement and says he could not have

Guesthouse in Provincetown, MA.

done it without his CIA education and

David Katz is founder/president of Katz

in Philadelphia, PA. James is delighted

education and is teaching culinary arts at

training.

Capital Management in Paramus, NJ.

to report that he has recently become

Nassau Community College in Garden

Alex Melkonian is pastry chef for Joey’s

engaged.

City, NY.

’69

Stephan R. App has retired after working in Chicago at a

number of venues, including the historic Pick Congress Hotel, Sheraton Chicago, and Szabo Food Service, Inc. He now resides in Rome City, IN and is grateful for his CIA New Haven education!

Home Bakery-Gluten Free in Boynton Beach, FL. He is an avid cyclist and has participated in century rides for the Leukemia/Lymphoma Society, during which he posted personal best times. John Anthony Venturo is personal chef at The Foreign Students Home at Allendale Columbia Prep School in Rochester, NY. The school offers a program for foreign

’71

Douglas J. Polmann is

students from 15 different counties. In

executive chef at Pennybyrn

addition, he continues to run his catering

at Maryfield, a retirement living facility

business and serve as a substitute teacher

in High Point, NC. His son Doug works

in a local culinary program.

as a line cook alongside him. In 2012, his daughter presented him with his first grandson, Kayden.

’80

James J. Lenhardt is executive chef for Aramark

at Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia

mise en place no.67, October 2014

’81

Lisa H. Callison is special event and demo chef for

Whole Foods in Colorado.

’85

Robert W. McQueen is chief information officer at the Of-

fice of Information Technology at Princeton University in Princeton, NJ. Peter F.

’82

Dick Perry is a personal chef in Dillon, MT. In his free time

he enjoys traveling, chess, and fly fishing.

’83

Beth Ann Cochran is general manager at the Salty Sow, a

Guy & Larry Restaurant in Phoenix, AZ.

Vossenberg is culinary chef-instructor for Le Cordon Bleu in Orlando, FL. He has two children, Greta Annemarie and Pierce William.

’86

Paul Pratley is executive chef at Hacienda del

Cerezo in Santa Fe, NM. Cherilynn J. Whitehouse is director of marketing for

’84

Pat Dalia recently got her

Pinnacle Foods Group LLC in Parsip-

master’s degree in special

pany, NJ.

’88

’05

Brian “Cappy” Caplinger

added “Culinary Experiential Sales

Inc. in Tiverton, RI. She is the proud

is executive chef at the Port

Workshops,” designed for foodservice

mother of Joseph Ferry IV, who was born

Jessica Anne Foust is direc-

Huron Elks Lodge in Port Huron, MI. He

manufacturers, to the Imagineer Market-

in January 2014. Cory Gheen is a chef-

McDonald’s Corporation. She leads culi-

wants to let his classmates know that he

ing lineup of services.

tor of culinary innovation for

instructor at Loma Linda University in

nary development for the Menu Innova-

still plays hockey in the 40- and 50-year-

the School of Applied Health Professions,

tion Team and provides nutrition subject

old groups! Scott K. Kim is chef/owner

Department of Nutrition & Dietetics in

matter expertise to McDonald’s U.S. She

Loma Linda, CA.

also manages the day-to-day relationships

’94

of Skimmer’s Panini Grill in Mission Viejo, CA. He is also a chef-instructor in

chef/owner of Deano’s Italian

Restaurant in Dublin, GA. USA Today

the culinary arts program at Saddleback

named Deano’s “Best Pizza in Georgia”

College, also in Mission Viejo.

’89

Jennifer Belfi-Shaffer is

in 2010 and 2013. The restaurant also

with McDonald’s multiple suppliers.

’01

Robert A. Eckhardt is sous chef and banquet manager at

made Paula Deen’s 2014 list of Top 10

Lon’s at The Hermosa in Scottsdale, AZ.

Lee W. McGrath is

Pizza Hot Spots in the country. Amy

Paolo Fontana owns and operates SCGP

executive chef at Pó in New

’06

Alison (Anthony) Matis and her husband Michael

Matis ’06 welcomed their first child,

Buchoff recently opened b.bakery! in

Café at the Simons Center for Geometry

Charlotte Rose, in 2013. Alison is food

York City. David Plum and Suzanne

Carmel, NY. Michael Roth is culinary

and Physics on the campus of Stony

and beverage director at Hilton Key

( Johnson) Plum ’89 were married in

arts instructor at Middlesex County

Brook University in Stony Brook, NY.

Largo in Key Largo, FL and Michael is

1995. David is a master plumber for Cape

Vocational Technical School in East

The café has a rooftop raised-bed garden

sous chef at Yarbird in Miami, FL. Dan-

Associates, Inc. in North Eastham, MA,

Brunswick, NJ. He and his wife have a

that supplies fresh vegetables and herbs

iel Tavan is a self-employed restaurant

and Suzanne is a licensed practical nurse

daughter, Rebecca. Ronald Taylor, Jr.

during the growing season.

entrepreneur in Needham, MA.

for Advanced Podiatry Associates, in Cha-

is executive chef of research and develop-

tham, MA. They have 11-year-old twins,

ment applications for Brand Aromatics in

Anna and Malcolm.

Lakewook, NJ.

’02

’07

’90

of Aroma’s Pizza in St. Paul,

Langosta Lounge in Asbury

Park, NJ, where he has been since they

’95

Lars Danielson is owner

Peter B. Morris is chef at

Jessica Camilleri-Koenig and Kyle Koenig ’07 were

married in September of 2011. They both

Anne Babette Audant is

reopened after Hurricane Sandy in the

work at Tom Colicchio’s Topping Rose

assistant professor, culinary

spring of 2013. He won The New Jersey

House, where Kyle is chef de cuisine and

MN. Joseph Piska recently completed

arts and executive director of the Kings-

Restaurant Association’s first annual “Top

Jessica is beverage director and somme-

restoring a 1971 Norton Commando

borough Center for Economic and Work-

New Chef of New Jersey” competition. He

lier. They are expecting their first child

motorcycle.

force Development at Kingsborough

also competed and won a “Food Fight”

in fall 2014 (See p. 33). Jason McCor-

Community College—City University of

competition held at another Asbury Park

mick is executive pastry chef/owner of

New York in Brooklyn, NY.

restaurant, where local chefs competed

Grandma Millie’s Bakery in Johnstown,

head-to-head for “bragging rights and a

NY. The bakery was highlighted on an

sweet set of knives.”

episode of the TLC Network show Bakery

’91

Raymond Sarro is culinary trainer for Aramark at The

’97

University of Delaware in Newark, DE. He is the proud father of a seven-year-old

April Bocker Stearns is an event planner for American

Leisure, a real estate developer in

daughter.

New Jersey.

’92

Boss, hosted by Buddy Valastro of Carlo’s

’03

Joy Carmen De Matas is a published food writer for Met-

Rx magazine; a master personal trainer

Robert G. Hiller is manag-

’99

ing director of Imagineer

Marketing in Millburn, NJ. He recently

Susan Ferry is manager at Larry’s Outboard Service,

for Kinetic Sports Club in Pelham, NY; a Go-Fit athletic coach for Figure Skating in

Bakery. Buddy helped the bakery get back on track and introduce new products. Sean M. Pera is assistant pastry chef for PreGel America in Concord, NC. He is married to Alysia (Hunt) Pera ’10.

Harlem; a health and wellness educator for Dance Theatre of Harlem; and a fulltime student at Mercy College. Chard

k it “Coo ur in yo mind first.” ohn

FJ CHE ly, ry R e il ina Cul of T he te u it Inst ic a A m er

Ream is chef at Falcon’s Nest at the Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort

Did your favorite chef or classroom instructor have a quote you remember to this day?

in Amelia, FL. Benmar Santos is chef/ owner of Cielito Sur Catering Services in Ponce, Puerto Rico. She has received awards recognizing her elegant catering style and consults for restaruants in her area. She has two children and enjoys spending her free time with her family.

’04

Gregory S. Selwyn is owner of Bevintel, a hospitality and

restaurant solutions company in Englewood, CO that he started in 2012. He got

Share it with us! Send quotes to n_cocola@culinary.edu.

married that same year.

Making a Difference Almost 40% of CIA students are referred by our alumni! Any prospective student you refer is eligible to receive a $1,000 Alumni Referral Scholarship as well as other scholarship opportunities. You can change a life. It’s easy, just visit www.ciaalumninetwork. com/refer.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

to duty, and attention to detail in the

Brookline, MA. Logan Griffin is wine

culinary arts. Mariana Shah-Hassell

captain/sommelier of Blackberry Farm

is executive chef/owner of Dish D’lish

in Walland, TN, where he has been

in Madame Estate, St. Maarten. Her

employed for more than six years. Logan

restaurant was recently featured on Inside

got married in September 2014. Patrick

Paradise, a Travel + Escape show, which

Smith is butcher/line cook at Bourbon

named it one St. Maarten’s Best of 2013.

Steak at the Four Seasons in Washington, DC. He attended the World Sushi

jessica camilleri-koenig ‘07 and kyle koenig ‘07

’09

Jon-Paul Liberatore is head brewer and “Brewery Ring-

leader” at CB Craft Brewers in Honeoye Falls, NY. Andrew Paul Rich is owner of Rhineland Collection, an importer of

Ashlee (Colville) Thurlow is pastry chef for Bonta Restaurant and Bar in Hampton, NH. In October 2009, she

’08

Alyssa (Moles) Densham is currently an independent

food systems consultant based in Fort

German wine in Boston, MA.

’10

Paula De Pano is married to

welcomed her son, Kaden Miles. Fran-

Sill, OK. She is also the Share Our

coise Celine Villeneuve is a freelance

Strength Cooking Matters coordinator for

food writer in Washington, DC. His

Fort Sill, working to support the Depart-

team at the CIA. Paula is sommelier

pieces are regularly published in Food

ment of Defense’s Healthy Base Initiative.

at Eleven Madison Park and Christian

Republic, a site “for men who want to eat

Her husband, John Densham, Jr. ’08,

is executive sous chef at Aselina, both

and drink well, and to live smart.” In his

is a food service specialist in the United

in New York City (See p. 31). Becca

spare time, he is consulting for various

States Army. John recently received the

Fishkin is taking a break from the

food companies, including Quench in

Army Achievement Medal for his excep-

pastry world to expo at Barcelona Wine

Rockville, MD.

tionally meritorious service, dedication

Bar, a busy Spanish tapas restaurant in

Christian Tondre ’10. They

met when they were assigned to the same

Institute sponsored by the All Japan Sushi Association. Patrick received his sushi proficiency certificate from Master Sushi Chef Masayoshi Kazato. He also recently received the Star Trainer certificate from the Four Seasons.

’13

Ezra George Neuman moved from his hometown

of East Hampton, NY to Portland, OR. He is enjoying life on the West Coast and is using his culinary skills at Circa 33 in Portland. Alyssa Scarpelli is working for Charlie Baggs Culinary Innovations in Chicago, IL. She is involved in a major redesign for Hard Rock Hotel in the Dominican Republic. Charlie is a 1997 CIA grad.

CIA LAUNCHES

In Memoriam

BACHELOR’S IN APPLIED FOOD STUDIES

John B. Ziegelhofer ’64

Diane Takasugi ’84

David L. Corrin ’65

Kathryn T. Temple ’84

Robert J. Savage ’68, CEC

Daniel A. Bardsley ’87

Paul J. Noviski ’69

Keith R. Hutchison ’87, CCC

Thomas M. O’Connor ’69

Daniel A. Herbert ’88

Leo B. Findlay ’70

Christopher E. Taylor ’89

John J. Stefan ’70

Lee W. Jackson ’91

Michael L. Scott ’71

Brett Bailey ’92

Terence E. Genre ’72

Mark Antoniacci ’93

Joseph E. McKim ’72

Philip Bolton ’93

Leo Silverman ’73

Anthony Raffule ’94

• Gain the communications skills and confidence necessary to lead and influence policy in the food world.

Jay N. Geiser ’74

Lawrence Spiro ’97

Jean M. Mugan ’76

Joyce H. Williams ’00

• Research and analyze food studies concepts in courses like Ecology of Food, Food History, and Anthropology of Food.

Thomas D. Shanaberger ’76

Barrett Anding ’07

Megan T. Anderson ’79

Robert A. Dearing ’08

Marty Trymbulak ’79

Kael R. Klassen ’08

Paul L. Gamble ’80

Alexander C. Rust ’08

Philip A. Cappiello, Sr. ’81

Athanasios D. Triantafilles ’08

Robert M. Mosso ’81

Sabrina M. Faison ’10

Richard L. Hobbs ’83

Eli George Rhode ’11

mise en place no.67, October 2014

Thinking of coming back to your alma mater for your bachelor’s degree? The CIA has a new major that just might be the ticket for you. The food landscape is changing rapidly, and companies are increasingly in need of expertise in food policy, community involvement, global issues, food systems, and much more. With the CIA’s new Bachelor of Professional Studies (BPS) in Applied Food Studies program, you can reenter the workforce ready to make an impact and become an influential leader. Our new bachelor’s degree major gives you the chance to:

• Participate in and conduct hands-on, practical projects related to food studies. • Apply knowledge of contemporary global food studies to real-word issues. • Enjoy exciting travel experiences and electives.

There are great transfer credit opportunities for this program as well (up to 36 credits!), so you may be able to earn a bachelor’s degree in under three semesters with enough qualifying credits. Contact the CIA Center for Academic Advising at 845-451-1761 to find out more.

The farm-to-table concentration semester away changed the way I live. Before it, I always tried eating local and organic. But after my experience, I no longer When I first walked in the

try, I do.

In the culinary science program

Marriott Pavilion, I was

Catherine O’Brien ’14 BPS

we are answering both simple

blown away. I will be so proud to

and complex questions about our

bring my parents here on graduation

food, using the scientific knowledge

day and show off my school.

we are taught. We have the ability to

Melissa Gray ’14

solve problems and venture into the

Having the chance to study in sunny California and work with the godfather of farm-to-table cuisine, Larry Forgione ’74, was probably one of the better decisions I’ve ever made. It was nothing short of amazing. Katie Ritter ’14 BPS

YOU Make So Much Possible The generosity of all those who give back to the CIA does not go unnoticed by our students. Your gifts make so much possible, from new academic programs to reimagining our hands-on fine dining experiences to the new Marriott Pavilion and soon-to-becompleted student recreation center. As students reap the benefits of your gifts, they are learning the value of philanthropy in their own lives. We know that lesson will be carried with them when they graduate from the CIA. And maybe, they too will pay it forward.

unknown. Graduates of the bachelor’s in culinary science program are in a bracket all their own. We will change the industry! Brice Holland Culinary Science ’14, BPS

Since the Marriott Pavilion opened, I’ve been to big events there that really impacted me and my fellow students. Ferran Adrià’s lecture and book signing, and the pre-screening

The Bocuse

of Jon Favreau’s movie Chef, were

Restaurant kitchen

invaluable to students. And the great

is truly a one-of-a-kind classroom. We are using the same state-of-the-art equipment, techniques, and technologies that the leaders in our industry are using. Maria Daniela Moreira-Camia ’14

The scholarship I received not only helped me financially, it gave me confidence. I’m proud that I was able to qualify for a scholarship. It reassured me that I made the right choice for my career. I’m thankful to the people who have donated toward scholarships. I hope to someday be able to give back in the same way.

space on the conference level of the Pavilion has made it possible for the Student Government Association to host Club Convention—when all the clubs and organizations come out to encourage student involvement outside the classroom. Michael McCarey ’14 BPS

Kirsten Thorn ’14 BPS

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Let’s Keep the Momentum Going We are past the halfway mark of our Building on Excellence Capital Campaign. You helped us get there! Every gift you make, no matter how large or small, helps us to keep the momentum going!

$100 MILLION

It’s thanks to your accomplishments as CIA alumni—and the excellence of our faculty, academic programs, and facilities—that we enjoy the reputation as the world’s premier culinary college. To maintain and elevate our leadership position, we must continually invest in the finest facilities and attract the most capable students. We’ve developed four new academic programs in the past year alone: •• The bachelor’s degree in Culinary Science develops highly informed chefs with advanced technical culinary skills and the ability to communicate using the language of science.

65,000,000 50 MILLION

•• The Latin Cuisines concentration at the Texas campus immerses bachelor’s degree students in this flourishing culinary specialization.

•• The Advanced Wine, Beverage, and Hospitality bachelor’s concentration provides upper-level studies in the areas of wine and spirits, principles of mixology, and beverage service at our Greystone campus in California.

•• Also at Greystone, The American Food Studies: Farm-to-Table Cooking concentration is intensely focused on the philosophy and practices at the heart of the farm-to-table movement.

Our not-for-profit status enables us to focus on the quality of education—not on the investment expectations of shareholders. This means we can direct our financial resources right back into our mission.

1 MILLION

Please consider a gift to the Capital Campaign! Your donation will help fund new degree programs and concentrations that provide today’s students with the tools to become tomorrow’s industry leaders. Visit ciagiving.org, e-mail advancement@culinary.edu, or call 845-451-1465. Let’s keep the momentum going!

mise en place no.67, October 2014

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

LAST CHANCE to register! T

4 1 20

Frida

–25

r 24 ctobe

urday t a S y&

Don’t miss the wonderful events on campus: • Networking Cocktail Reception • Extraordinary Demos & Presentations • Showing of Chef, the movie • Culinary Trivia Game • Campus Tours • 4th Annual 5K Walk/Run • Wicked Weekend Carnival—a student-sponsored event

Register now at www.ciaalumninetwork.com or call us at 845-451-1401. Hope to see you there! Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement & CIA Websites Career Services Student Financial & Professional Development 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 Business Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 Registration Services 1-800-888-7850 ciaalumninetwork.com 845-905-4275 ciaprochef.com 845-451-1688 ciagiving.org ciarestaurants.com

General Information 845-452-9600