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No. 54, December 2010

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA


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Becoming an Entrepreneur Tips and resources for the aspiring entrepreneur

12 Eccentric Eateries

Visit six of the world’s most unusual restaurants

14 A New Star for San Antonio

Festivities mark opening of new CIA, San Antonio facilities

20 Oaxacan Chiles

A vital part of cuisine and culture revealed


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17 Across the Plaza

29 Gifts at Work

23 Education for Life

32 Class Notes

Following the Presidential Trail | B.P.S. Dinner Events

Job Search 101 | Book Shelf | From Kitchen Vet to Successful Entrepreneur | Kudos

Jones Dairy Farm | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

Alumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam | Holiday Mishap Contest Winner


Once, a long time ago, I thought I could be an entrepreneur of sorts. In my spare time I made lovely, one-of-a-kind birdhouses. I spent hours scouring the woods for fallen birch trees and then stripping the bark to make rusticlooking roofs. I’d hammer sharp-edged cooper into shape for the same purpose. And I attached cute little signs on them that said things like “For Wrent.” Each house was hand-painted and hand-decorated and took hours to create. So naturally I assumed I could make a business out of my avocation! I’d arrive at craft fairs with my clever display crafted out of the trunk of a cedar tree and begin my setup. All around me there would be other birdhouse entrepreneurs who had priced their avian abodes a good $10 less than mine. How were they doing that? If I truly charged for materials and labor, I priced myself right out of the craft fair market. And if I priced for the market, I was losing money on every house I sold. Some entrepreneur I turned out to be. Thank god I still had a day job. In preparing this entrepreneurship edition of mise en place, I spoke to countless alumni who willingly shared their stories of startups and stumbles, successes and fiascos. I learned that entrepreneurship is not for the faint of heart. It takes a person in possession of great focus and passion. It requires

mise en place® No. 54, December 2010 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing Writers Joe Abuso ’94 Iliana de la Vega Ron Hayes ’02 Felicia Zammit

Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Chet Koulik

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

Francisco Migoya

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Tama Murphy

Brad Barnes ’87

Anthony Nogales ’88

Sue Cussen

risk and courage, and an

Ron DeSantis ’81

understanding of the nitty-

Heather Kolakowski ’02

gritty issues that lack romance

Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Jen Stack ’03

but are essential to a business’s survival. I also learned that whether your dream is to own a restaurant, provide a service, open a store, or sell a product online, there are common basics necessary for success. With luck, this edition of mise en place will get you thinking about possibilities and dreams, and offer you some of the practical information you need to take your first step toward entrepreneurship, should that be in your future. Nancy Cocola, Editor n_cocola@culinary.edu

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students. Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved. Photography: Daren Abate, Stephanie Berry, Keith Ferris, Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick, Anne Rettig, and Sitti Suteerasan

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Food is Life

Avec Eric

maps of our New York and California

Helping prospective students understand

Everyone was delighted recently when

the CIA experience and what it can mean

celebrated chef Eric Ripert spent time on

site, which includes demos, lectures, travel

to their culinary futures is an ongoing

the Hyde Park campus filming an episode

endeavor. Over the years, we have focused

of his PBS series Avec Eric. Chef and co-

our marketing on key phrases to capture

owner of Michelin three-star restaurant

that experience. You may recognize

Le Bernardin in New York City, he

“Preparation is Everything” or “We Speak

was recently honored at the CIA’s 2010

Food” from back when you applied to the

Leadership Gala as Chef of the Year.

CIA. Well, after research, focus groups,

While on campus he visited the Escoffier

and much discussion, we have launched a

Restaurant, sat in on the Cuisines of the

fresh and exciting admissions campaign,

Mediterranean and Seafood Identification

“Food is Life—Create and Savor Yours.”

& Fabrication classes, and held a Q&A session attended by more than 200 eager students. The Avec Eric episode featuring

We believe these words will resonate with prospective students and their views about food, their lives, the world, and the impact they hope to have on the future of foodservice. And as you know, for all of us who have worked or learned at the CIA,

campuses, and links to the CIA’s YouTube experiences, and Q&As with prominent alumni. Visit www.ciachef.edu/app/ to get your free download from the App Store.

E-Room Gets Facelift The Escoffier Restaurant was the first student-staffed restaurant at the CIA’s Hyde Park campus. The inspiration for its cuisine was the great chef Auguste Escoffier. The décor was also inspired by Escoffier, who decorated the dining room at the famous Carlton Hotel in London—where he spent

the CIA aired this past fall on PBS.

20 years—with pink and white roses on

APPsolutely CIA

E-Room’s chairs, chargers, and flowers had

A new app allows you easy, on-the-go

gave the restaurant a modern but elegant

access to all things CIA from your iPhone or iPod Touch. You’ll be able to stay in the loop about upcoming lectures and demos, dates for sporting events, the latest photos of our campus, blog posts, interactive

every table. And so it evolved that the a distinctive pink hue. This past July, we makeover. Gone is the pink and in its place are warm browns, creams, golds, and a touch of silver. The food remains French in inspiration, but as always, with a contemporary CIA flair.

food is life.

the refreshed e-room

mise en place no.54, December 2010

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MEET A NEED

By Nancy Cocola Some say that the type of person who becomes an entrepreneur is born to it. Supposedly they have an innate, indefinable quality that allows them to face the headwinds while the rest of us sit on the leeward side protected from the often stressful financial and managerial gales. But as it turns out, there isn’t just one type of person who becomes an entrepreneur. Apparently, under the right circumstances, surrounded by the right people, and championing the right idea, anyone can take their skills, passions, and dreams and turn them into entrepreneurial success. The alumni highlighted in this article reveal a wide range of personalities, attitudes, and approaches; making it clear that there are many ways to be an entrepreneur. They share the truths they learned on their personal voyages to success.

George Chookazian ’93 Owner, Foods By George

His Truth: MEET A NEED George Chookazian’s company of 19 years is at the center of both his professional and his personal life. He was working in accounting and finance when his wife Ceil was diagnosed with celiac disease. His quest to find her tasty gluten-free products led him to develop baking mixes. He found a company that would produce the mixes and George started driving 50-pound bags of mix around in his car to distribute them. In 1991, Shiloh Farm agreed to market his products under their name. He and Ceil were on their way. The ability to capitalize on a lucky moment is so often a part of entrepreneurial success. One day, George happened into a brand-new health food store in River Edge, NJ. After talking to the owner, who had extra kitchen space in the back, they agreed that George would make his own gluten-free foods and the store owner would get a percentage of what was sold in his store. On a handshake alone, Foods by George was started. Today, health food stores and large companies like Wegmans, Whole Foods, and others carry the line, which is comprised solely of frozen food. As a natural outgrowth of his personal interest in celiac disease, George has been involved with a number of national and local celiac organizations. “To be an entrepreneur, you have to have a real passion for what you are doing,” George explains. “What kept me going during lean times was the positive feedback loop of my customers. I’d head into a meeting of celiac sufferers and they were all so happy to see me and were enjoying my product. That was a great reinforcer.” Recently, the Celiac Disease Center of Columbia University honored George for his innovation and commitment to improving the lives of celiac patients.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com


GET REAL FEEDBACK AND EMBRACE GOOD LUCK

Marketing for Foods by George is somewhat unique. The audience for gluten-free products is narrow and can be accessed in some very specific ways. From local celiac support groups to regional/national organizations to magazines focused on allergies, George’s ability to capture this audience with advertising is excellent. Right now, his company places ads in 500–1,000 celiac support group quarterly newsletters and allergy magazines. For the first 13 years, all profits were being driven right back into the company to keep it going. It wasn’t until the mid-2000s that George was able to take profit out of the business for himself. But that was okay, because for George, Foods by George is a passion, a necessity, a crusade, and a challenge that meets the needs of so many celiac sufferers.

Andrea Zelen ’02

Owner, American Brownie Co.

Her Truth: GET REAL FEEDBACK AND EMBRACE GOOD LUCK Andrea Zelen always wanted to be a pastry chef, and realized her dream when she became executive pastry chef at Disney’s Polynesian Resort organization in Florida. However, that position meant she was no longer allowed to do the baking. She had become a “clipboard” chef. That was not for her. What to do? Her brownies, which always received rave reviews from chefs and friends alike, became the focus of her next professional venture. She began experimenting and hit upon the idea of layering brownies when a batch emerged from her oven much flatter than intended. They were perfect for layering one on top of the other with different types of ganache fillings and icings. Andrea spent months giving away samples of her brownies at the local farmers’ market in order to get public input. She listened carefully to feedback, honing her product and improving on flavor combinations. Soon, people started wanting to buy the brownies and give them as gifts. As it turned out, that farmers’ market was pivotal to the story of Andrea’s success. It provided her with two unique opportunities. First, Whole Foods had a presence at that market and showed real interest in carrying Andrea’s creations. Second, a customer told Andrea that QVC was on a nationwide discovery tour for new products and encouraged her to try out. Despite fear and misgivings, Andrea embraced the opportunity. Ten thousand applicants were winnowed down to 100 aspirants. “It was like American Idol,” Andrea explained. “We were elated when we were selected as one of the final 10, but had no idea how to ‘sell’ on camera or that we would sell out 2,000 units (that’s 40,000 brownies) in three minutes and 15 seconds!” She had to step up to the plate and ship the orders within four days of airing. Family and friends all pitched in to help meet the deadline. Since then, American Brownie Co. has grown into a very successful mail order business. In 2007, in response to customer feedback, the company added a range of wholesale

mise en place no.54, December 2010

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gourmet desserts customized to meet the needs of food magazines and restaurant chains. Everything from its name, which reflects the truly American origins of this treat, to the logo, which visualizes the unique layering concept of the brand, has been approached with the same thoughtful respect for feedback that is the hallmark of this unique company.

MISE EN PLACE! THINK IT THROUGH

Lisa Brefere ’78

Founder and CEO, GigaChef.com

Her Truth: MISE EN PLACE! THINK IT THROUGH If Lisa Brefere could give the new company owner words of advice, they would be “think it through.” From her perspective, if you open your doors without first knowing who your potential client is and understanding the financial, legal, accounting, product, pricing, credit line, marketing, and revenue stream issues you will be facing, you are in for a bumpy ride. And while she knows that you can’t possibly be an expert in all these areas, she does believe that you must have a team of people who are experts to advise you. “Chefs know the importance of mise en place,” Lisa explains. “Well, starting a business requires mise en place of a slightly different order, but it’s important nonetheless.” When she and her GigaChef.com co-founder Brad Barnes ’87 started the company, identifying their clients was the first step. With food professionals and food enthusiasts as their target market, they went about building a site they thought would appeal to that constituency. Lisa learned the perils of neglecting to think things through when she and Brad made a mistake that cost them real money. By neglecting to map out their revenue stream, they were advertising a product/service they thought would sell but didn’t. So in midstream they created the Giga marketplace to boost sales and draw in customers. The danger of not thinking strategically about your company’s growth is that you end up with a patchwork quilt of ideas and execution that may or may not reflect your initial vision. Luckily for GigaChef.com, the team got expert advice and has full-time content management and technical staff on board to ensure that the site remains a vital, everchanging portal for culinarians and food enthusiasts alike.

Rochelle Huppin ’87

Founder and President, Chefwear

Her Truth: CREATE WHAT YOU KNOW Writers are often told, “write what you know and there will be truth in the words.” That same advice could be applied to the entrepreneur. “Create what you know and you will succeed.” Rochelle Huppin’s company Chefwear is the embodiment of that sage advice. Back in 1985, when she graduated from the CIA, there were no chef’s jackets or pants made to fit women, and everything was made of polyester. While working as a pastry chef at a restaurant in East Hollywood, CA, Rochelle started wearing baggy-cut pants. But when she went to work for Wolfgang Puck at Eureka and Spago, everyone wore men’s white pants and white jackets. It just wasn’t working for her. So Rochelle had seven pairs of black and white, houndstooth-patterned loose pants made just for her. The minute the other chefs—Bobby Flay, Jonathan Waxman, and Wolfgang Puck—saw them, they all

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com


wanted a pair. So Rochelle commissioned another 500—which sold out immediately—and drove around in her white Pontiac Fiero delivering pants. Finding it impossible to build a company and maintain the hectic life of a pastry chef,

CREATE WHAT YOU KNOW

Rochelle retired from the kitchen in 1990 to devote herself to growing Chefwear. With the advent of the “open kitchen,” Chefwear flourished even more. For the first time, chefs wanted to look good because they could be seen. Capitalizing on this trend and on the growing high profile of the chef, Rochelle made a number of custom designs for wellknown chefs like David Burke ’82. Every design is meticulously researched. She even consulted a mycologist to help her design her mushroom pants. From the baggy, more comfortable pants to the organic cotton line they now carry, from the extra large sizes to the very petite, Chefwear has been at the cutting edge of meeting chef’s clothing needs. Marketing for Chefwear is multi-faceted. There is a Web site featuring well-known chefs sporting Chefwear creations as well as a worldwide sales force of 50. However, Rochelle believes that her proudest moments and possibly the company’s best exposure came from giving back to the community. Over the years, Rochelle has created several custom patterns, called “patterns with a purpose,” to benefit Share Our Strength, the 9/11 Relief Fund, and the Lauder Breast Cancer Research Foundation. In the end, Chefwear is clearly based on what Rochelle knows and loves best.

Mike Smollen ’80

Owner: My Butcher and More

His Truth: LEARN, TEACH, AND BUILD RELATIONSHIPS Mike Smollen started out cooking on a Merchant Marine ship. Two years and eight countries later, he headed for land and spent time as an executive chef for the Hilton chain and a banquet chef for the Marriott chain. The long hours were starting to take their toll when an opportunity arose at the Maryland Hotel Supply Company selling meat—a subject he knew quite a bit about. Many of the places he sold to were familyowned, and Mike took advantage of the personal relationships he was building to learn from experts. By day, he wore a suit to his sales calls. By night, he would return, don an apron, and head for the butcher shop in the back. “I figured I had an opportunity to truly educate myself, ask questions, and understand my craft,” Mike explained. “I knew the meat cutters by name. No other salesman was taking that kind of initiative.” While delivering to a small butcher shop in Crofton, MD that wasn’t doing well, Mike realized that with his expertise in meats and the culinary arts, he could make something of the failing shop. He took the entrepreneurial leap and bought it. But it’s no small feat to take over a failing concern that the customers have abandoned. The challenges were many. With huge “Under New Management” signs in the window, a better variety and quality of product to offer, and slowly building word-of-mouth, the shop started to come back. “Patience, and a belief in what you are doing is everything,” Mike says. Recently, he took another risk and moved the shop to Annapolis—a community with a more food-savvy population and buying patterns. When his new clientele started demanding grass fed, free-range, and cage-free meat and poultry, Mike was listening.

mise en place no.54, December 2010

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Reflecting Mike’s belief in lifelong learning, he offers twicemonthly Meat 101 classes to patrons. Accommodating 15 people at a time, classes might focus on breaking down a whole lamb, knife sharpening, grilling and smoking, or turkey carving. This type of marketing fits nicely into Mike’s own belief that building relationships, learning, and sharing information can lead to success.

Eric Hildebrand ’02

Owner, Eric Hildebrand Lifestyle & Entertaining

His Truth: FEAR IS NATURAL AND NETWORKING IS ALL

Down to the Finest Detail All of these Alumni stories reveal that entrepreneurship is about taking the big, broad idea, honing it down to its finest details, then giving it life and selling the big idea to others. And whether you are opening a store, restaurant, or online business, startups must pay attention to lots and lots of details.

Concept and Lifestyle You can never be all things to all people. In the case of restaurant concept, you must please yourself and your demographic. Can the area in which you choose to open support a fine-dining restaurant open only

Eric Hildebrand has always wanted to be the male Martha

for dinner? Is it possible to succeed with a sandwich

Stewart. Lifestyle domestic arts, food, crafting, and

shop/deli capitalizing on the heavy breakfast and

gardening have always been his passions. While other kids

lunch crowd so you can be home for dinner with your

were heading to camp for the summer, Eric headed to farms

family? Or, will there be enough interest to support

to learn all about gardens and produce. And even as he

a shop focused on a single concept like seafood, an

chose the CIA for his formal education, Eric always knew

ethnic cuisine, or a bakery/café? All of these questions

that event planning was in his future. For three years, he

must be asked, while considering the type of lifestyle

worked for a well-known event planner, but he began to

you wish for yourself and your loved ones.

feel that his own ideas were not being given voice. His fear was palpable as he took the step of leaving a steady job and

Location, Location, Location

creating his own lifestyle company. “I had to confront my

You’ve identified the area where you’d

fears in order to have my dream, and it’s a good challenge

like to open your business. You love the

for me,” Eric explains.

town, the neighborhood, and the street. Great.

His is a fledgling business. And in order to keep his head above financial water, he has to freelance for other designers and planners as well as work to build his own clientele. “It’s a dilemma,” he explains. “When I do a job for someone else, I really can’t use that event to promote myself—naturally it is all about them. So I have to work extra hard to differentiate my work from theirs.”

Now here are the hard questions you have to ask yourself. What is the food and motor traffic like and when is it heavy vs. light? Is your storefront visible to all who pass? Is parking readily accessible? Is there a median strip in the middle of the road that

Networking is at the heart of all of Eric’s success thus far.

makes it hard to get to your shop? And, what is the

“While I was working for others, I was at every event,” Eric

crime situation in the area? Take a look at your local

says. “Now I’m using that same network of people to build

competition. Visit their sites both real and virtual

my own name in the industry.” For Eric, there is something

to get a look at their setup and pricing. Online

noble about the effort and the struggle. And when he gets

directories such as superpages.com and qwestdex.com can

down and worries about whether he will be able to pull this

help you find competitors in your area.

off, he remembers that he is one stubborn guy. “I like to

It’s About Money

finish what I start!” he says. And that is yet another quality that will see him through.

According to Dr. Peter Rainsford, author of The Restaurant Start-up Guide and the CIA’s vice president of academic affairs, the biggest hurdle new start-ups face is under-capitalization. “People make the mistake of thinking that a sale equals profit,” he explains. You must understand all your costs, from lease to product to employment taxes

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to equipment. Most people report using whatever


personal funds they have available first and then asking friends and relatives to help. Banks are reluctant to lend money to the uninitiated. However, the Small Business Association and angeldeals.com, which connects entrepreneurs and investors to opportunities and resources, offer lots of options for start-up financing. And when it comes to payroll and taxes, every entrepreneur I spoke with

Getting the Word Out There are countless ways to market your business. Alumni in this article have used a variety of marketing tools. George Chookazian uses industry newsletters. Andrea Zelen uses television and e-mail promotions. Lisa Brefere uses grassroots social networking and blogging to drive business. Rochelle Huppin finds that visibility at industry events and a sales force bring her success. And Mike Smollen uses the help of Constant Contact.com to help him create, design, send, and track e-mails to his

shared their belief that it is worth every

customer list.

penny to hire someone with expertise to

American educator Peter F. Drucker once said,

make sure it’s done right.

The Business Plan For many small start-ups, the business plan is rattling around in the owner’s head. But if you want to raise money, you are going to have to take those thoughts and put them down on paper. And, frankly, the business

“Whenever you see a successful business, someone once made a courageous decision.” That is the absolute truth. It does take courage and a dream, brains, and passion, as well as skill and art to be successful. But you are not alone and there are lots of resources available to you— including your own 40,000-strong alumni network.

plan helps you think through all the variables of the business ahead of time. What’s included? • An executive summary that sells your plan in a couple of pages

Additional Resources • Demographics by Town/City/State at factfinder.

• A factual description of your company and its history • A full description of the products/services you will have and how they stand out from the competition • A market analysis of your typical customer, competitors, market size, and expected growth • A strategic action plan for selling your product/service, with milestones for success • A market summary providing background on the management team, and • A financial plan that contains information on projected sales, revenue stream, and profits Take a deep breath. There are resources out there to help you (see resources at right).

Managing People Few business owners really know how to manage their staff. Some learn by trial and error, often leaving “bodies” along the way. But the art of managing staff can be learned. George Chookazian believes that hiring the right person for the job in the first place can make all the difference. He says, “It is important to assess the type of work to be done before hiring. In my business there is a lot

census.gov • The Small Business Administration offers a wealth of free services and resources to business owners and entrepreneurs, including online courses, financial assistance, a business development center, and review of products at sba.gov/starting _business • Restaurant training manuals, employee handbooks, and Webinars at restaurantowner.com • Mintel Reports consumer research information at mintel.com • Information on startup, business management, employees, and safety at allfoodbusiness.com • SCORE.org (Service Corps of Retired Executives) offers small business mentoring and training with great advice on marketing, social networking, and management by people who have already achieved success. • John B. Baugh Center for Entrepreneurship at Baylor University will evaluate the commercial potential of your new product or idea at www.baylor.edu/businesss/entrepreneur • Restaurant Startup & Growth magazine is filled with

of lifting and moving all day long. I found that good

practical articles and resources to help you down

athletes were up to the challenge and made excellent,

the entrepreneurial path.

tireless workers.”

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Eccentric Eateries Fine dining has emerged from under its cloak of solemnity and sobriety as fun, flavorful, and, at times, a trifle far out. The experience of dining is just that—an experience—and at some places a restaurant’s concept adds to the culinary cool! Check these out.

Under the Water Next time you visit Rangali Island in the Maldives in the Indian Ocean, visit Ithaa, the world’s first all-glass, fine-dining underwater restaurant. The mostly acrylic restaurant stands 16 feet below the surface and offers customers a 180-degree panoramic view of the gorgeous and unusual sea life in the corral reef that surrounds it. With only 12 seats, this exclusive restaurant presents top-flight meals. And for those who have difficulty eating the fish they are so busily admiring through the glass, there is wild deer fillet with Bailinese long peppers or Angus beef à la plancha on the menu.

Under the Ice The Snow Castle of Kemi by the Gulf of Bothnia in Finland is a true showcase of architectonic snow-work by local constructors. Every winter, the Snow Castle offers wonderful experiences for children and adults alike. Great lighting effects add to the charm of the snowand ice-sculpting as well as to the structures surrounding the Snow Castle. The temperature in the restaurant is always about 23 degrees Fahrenheit, so dressing warmly in quilted/thermal overalls, thick-soled shoes, caps, and gloves is essential. The menu consists of such Finnish faves as fillet of reindeer, potatoes, and root vegetables with game sauce and lingonberries.

Under the Gun ithaa

Surrender your cell phone, your handbag, and your ID, then pass through a series of checkpoints and a metal detector. Now you’re ready for a candlelight dinner at what might be called the most exclusive restaurant in Italy—the 500-year-old Fortezza Medicea (Medici Fortress) in Volterra. This dining experience, inside the walls of a top-security prison, is a kind of social experiment—giving hardened criminals viable job training. Patrons get a close-up look at servers, chefs, and sommeliers who are Mafiosi, thieves, and murderers! Under the watchful eye of armed prison guards, executive chef Egidio, who is 17 years into his sentence, reigns over six chefs as they prepare classic southern Italian fare. The sommelier, Santolo, may be serving a 24year sentence for murder but he also knows how to serve up a rustic Montelpulciano with your meal. And while the meal may be elegant, the tableware is plastic—for the diner’s safety, of course!

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snow castle of kemi


Dinner in a Tree The New Zealand Yellow Pages wished to let the public know that no matter the project, you can find the services you need within their pages. So they commissioned Pacific Environments Architects to create a treehouse restaurant with sustainable items and services from the Yellow Pages. Situated at the edge of a forest on a rise above an open meadow and meandering stream, the treehouse is wrapped organically around the trunk of a tree and is 33 feet wide and 40 feet tall. The structure is accessible via a 196-foot-long treetop ramp. The restaurant can accommodate 18 seated guests, full waitstaff, and bar, or a larger group for cocktails. You can rent the gorgeous Yellow Treehouse for parties.

Dinner in the Sky If you have an open field, parking lot, courtyard or vineyard, you are on your way to a dining event like no other. Dinner in the Sky is a Belgium-based company that provides dining at 164 feet in the air. The sturdy platforms are fitted with seating for 22, and a center island for chefs and servers. Secured to their seats with multiple harnesses, each guest has a small platform for their feet but are otherwise “dangling� in midair. Once in the air, guests might enjoy views of pastoral scenery, watch celebratory fireworks, or scan urban landscapes while they dine. For obvious reasons, the platforms are built under the strict supervision of an independent company that evaluates the safety and quality of new systems and products. Chefs prepare and present a variety of fare from the center island. They too are harnessed, though they are necessarily able to move around. From Italy to Paris, from Las Vegas to Israel, people are intrigued by the idea of dining in the sky.

Dinner in the Dark Blindekuh (German for blind cow), the original darkness-

The yellow treehouse

themed restaurant, was opened in Zurich, Switzerland in 1999 by four unusual people; a blind clergyman, a blind social worker, a blind singer, and a partially sighted psychologist. They met at the Dialogue in the Dark exhibition at Zurich’s Museum of Design. After an intensive planning phase, the four opened Blindekuh to resounding applause. With blind or sight-impaired servers, patrons experience their meal in total darkness, giving them a culinary experience that heightens their remaining senses and offers a window into the world of the sightless. The group has received requests from around the globe to help put similar projects into practice. The Unsicht-Bar in Berlin and Cologne, Dans Le Noir in Paris and London, and Opaque restaurant in California all offer dining-in-the-dark experiences. dinner in the sky

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A New Star for San Antonio As the restored mission bell rang its greeting, more than 6,000 people gathered

to celebrate the opening of the CIA’s newly expanded San Antonio campus. The CIA facility has grown from its initial 5,000 square feet to 30,000 square feet and constitutes the fulfillment of the dream—el sueño—of San Antonio businessman and Silver Ventures CEO Kit Goldsbury. Urban 15

joe scofido of dunkin’ brands

CIA President Tim Ryan explained the inspiration for the expansion this way, “Twenty-five to seventy-five percent of kitchen and restaurant workers in the foodservice industry are Latino. However, just a small fraction of them are in leadership and ownership positions because they often lack the required education. The CIA is here to support an important mission—to elevate Latin American cuisines to their rightful places among the great cuisines of the world, and to provide access to a world-class CIA education to young Latinos, so that they can assume the mantle of culinary leadership in the generations to come.”

parilla grill

cia students

kit goldsbury and mayor castro

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tim ryan and kit goldsbury after the ribbon cutting


¡Celebración del Sueño!

learn about traditional cooking techniques and for the community

The October 9, 2010 opening day events celebrated the realization of that dream and the joyful anticipation of the future. The day brought together the San Antonio community to enjoy music, dance, campus tours, competitions, chef demonstrations, and, of course, lots and lots of food. Earlier in the day, the Dunkin’ Donuts Bakeshop, which was established with a million dollar gift from Dunkin’ Brands, Inc. was unveiled. Then it was time for the San Antonio multi-disciplinary

to taste great food. On the tour, the “green” elements of the building were highlighted. They include ionized water for cleaning, a composting machine, a solar array to generate electricity, and the use of recycled water, which will save an estimated one million gallons per year.

Making Education Possible

arts group Urban 15 to dance and lead a parade of CIA graduates,

With his lifelong passion for Latin American food and successful

chefs, and students through the stage area. The day’s speakers

career in foodservice, it seemed natural to Kit Goldsbury that

included San Antonio Mayor Julián Castro, who proclaimed,

he give back to the city and industry he loved. His 2007 pledge

“The CIA is quickly becoming the artistic, the cultural, and the

to the CIA of $35 million included $20 million earmarked for

intellectual center of San Antonio.” Kit Goldsbury and Tim Ryan cut

scholarships, enabling aspiring Latino chefs to get a world-class

the commemorative ribbon made up of

culinary education. Today, the San

jalapeño peppers and held aloft by four

Antonio campus offers the CIA’s proven

CIA alumni—Doug Horn ’92, Johnny

30-week certificate program, industry

Hernandez ’89, Eddie Ledesma ’05,

research services, programs for industry

and Shelley Grieshaber ’94.

professionals, and courses for food enthusiasts.

Once the official ceremony ended, everyone was drawn to the outdoor pit-roasted pork pibil, Francisco

Preserving Latin American Food and Culture

Cardenas’s Mexican-style black beans,

In addition, the gift made it possible

Cuban-born chef Maricel Presilla’s

to create the Center for Foods of the

ceviche, and Chilean chef Christán

Americas (CFA). Many people are

Correa’s mushrooms sautéed with

unaware of the breadth, diversity, and

merkén. Local restaurants like the RK

healthful qualities of Latin American

Group, Las Ramblas, and CIA graduate

cuisines. Educating the public about the

Johnny Hernandez’s newly opened La

foods lies at the heart of the CFA’s work.

kitchen by the aroma of Rick Bayless’s

Gloria provided other delectable treats. It was standing room only under the jumbo tent as Rick Bayless, Norman

Two full-time chef researchers travel david kellaway, tim ryan, and kit goldsbury

Van Aken, and Mark Miller pleased the crowd with cooking demonstrations. And there was something for everyone as six San Antonio high schools competed in the High School Healthy Snack Competition. Students from Luther Burbank High School came out on top with their “Grandma’s Chicken Salad” healthy recipe. One of the biggest draws was the campus tour. More than 750 people strolled through the newly constructed facilities. The first floor of the building features three teaching kitchens, two skills kitchens, and a one-of-a kind Latin kitchen equipped with a wood-fired oven. The second floor houses the professional bakeshop sponsored by Dunkin’ Donuts, classrooms, a demo theater, computer lab, library, and conference space for up to 350. Almost as exciting as the interior of the school is the outdoor space, where a barbecue pit, authentic comal for tortillas, and parilla grill make it possible for students to

throughout the region documenting and cataloging the iconic ingredients,

cuisines, and street foods that define the foodways of Latin America. They also chronicle the evolution and reinterpretation of these traditional foods. Whether it’s the artisanal moles of Oaxaca, the flavor profiles of Peruvian ceviches, or the techniques used for making the rich Brazilian seafood stews of Bahia, preserving these culinary traditions is essential as they provide important perspectives on culture and society. Understanding these culinary traditions and learning how to incorporate their rich, bold flavors into menus has been the focus of CIA courses like Antojitos—Mexican Street Foods and Classic Cuisines of Mexico: Puebla and Oaxaca. As many as 1,500 foodservice and hospitality professionals a year are expected to take part in continuing education programs, industry research services, and conferences at the Texas campus.

15


Sharing Their Expertise: the Education Team

Dolores Yzábal. She is a graduate of the University of Mississippi,

The stars that make the CIA, San Antonio experience unforgettable

Management, Le Cordon Bleu, and the Universidad Nacional

are the talented, dedicated members of our education team:

Autónoma de México.

David P. Kellaway, C.M.C., C.C.E., Managing Director

Paul Sartory ’78, C.H.E., Chef-Instructor

Certified Master Chef David Kellaway has had a distinguished 30-year

Paul Sartory has more than 30 years of experience in the foodservice

career in the foodservice and hospitality industry. Before returning to the CIA—where he previously served as chairman of the Education Department at the Hyde Park campus—Chef Kellaway was corporate director of culinary operations for Station Casinos, Inc. in Las Vegas, NV. Other career highlights include positions at Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino and THEhotel and The Mirage Resort & Casino, all in Las Vegas; Salish Lodge at Snoqualmie Falls in Washington; and The Plaza Hotel in New York City. A veteran of international culinary competitions, he has a long list of awards including a Gold Medal from the Société Culinaire Philanthropique to the Medal of the French Government.

Iliana de la Vega, Chef-Instructor Chef Iliana de la Vega teaches professional development classes dedicated to the study of Latin American cuisines at the CIA, San Antonio. After attending university and beginning her career in professional cooking in Mexico City, she opened her own restaurant, the highly acclaimed El Naranjo, in Oaxaca. There she prepared modern interpretations of traditional Oaxacan dishes. A renowned authority on Mexican and Oaxacan cuisine, she has given cooking classes and demonstrations on the subjects for more than a decade.

industry and culinary education. A 1978 high honors graduate of the CIA, he held chef and sous chef positions before returning to the college to teach in 1986. Three years later, he helped launch the Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant at the new CIA campus in St. Helena, CA and served as its executive chef. Chef Sartory later was executive chef of the Belle Meade Country Club in Nashville, TN; Myers Park Country Club in Charlotte, NC; and Cherokee Town & Country Club in Atlanta, GA. In 1994, he took first place in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or USA competition, representing the U.S. in Lyon, France the following year.

Hinnerk von Bargen, C.H.E., Chef-Instructor Before joining the CIA, San Antonio faculty, Hinnerk von Bargen developed and taught a broad spectrum of classes for culinary professionals and food enthusiasts at the Hyde Park campus for almost 10 years, and remains involved in the development and execution of the CIA ProChef® Certification program. A member of the Research Chefs Association, he holds a Master Chef certificate from the Hotel School in Hamburg, Germany. Chef von Bargen completed two apprenticeships in his native Germany before beginning his professional career, which has included chef positions in hotels and

Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick, Chef-Instructor

restaurants in Germany, South Africa, and China.

A Latin cuisines specialist, Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick teaches,

While the opening day ceremonies were fun for all who attended, it’s

conducts research, and produces multimedia tools for the Center for

these CIA instructors and administrators who every day will impart

Foods of the Americas. She previously founded Orgánica Latina, an

the knowledge, skills, and passion that make el sueño a reality.

all-natural, organic food line featuring products from interior Latin America, and was culinary director for Culinaria in New Orleans, LA. Chef Johnson-Kossick worked with and studied under such talented chefs as Donald Link, Margarita de Salinas, and Maria

16

Florida International University School of Hospitality and Tourism

rick bayless demos ceviche

For More Information Courses for Professionals and ProChef® Certification 1-888-851-3313 Culinary Arts Certificate Program 1-800-CULINARY (285-4627)

student presents plated winner of healthy snack competition


Following the Presidential Trail Unlike many four-year colleges that close from late May to late August, the CIA is closed for a few brief weeks in July. This yearround schedule means that the work of representing, nurturing, and managing the CIA never really stops. President Tim Ryan was as busy as ever this past summer. Here are a scant few of the events, meetings, and symposiums he attended.

Italian Cuisine Summit One of Tim’s many stops in June was a two-day symposium at New York University, organized by Gruppo Ristoratori Italiani (GRI) to discuss and debate the present and future state of Italian cuisine in America. Tim moderated a panel tackling the question “Educating Operators, Consumers, and Institutions—How do we go about doing it?” The experience was lively and Tim said it best when he remarked, “Moderating a discussion about Italian cuisine for a panel and audience mostly made up of Italian restaurateurs,

(left to right) Secretary Tom Vilsack, Paul Wigsten, and President Ryan

U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Visits CIA U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack paid an early August

chefs, and business owners was a little bit like being a lion tamer.

visit to the CIA’s Hyde Park campus. Tim and Mark Erickson ’77

But I enjoyed it, and the panel explored the topic intelligently

hosted the visit, which included a tour of the campus, meeting our

and thoroughly.” The GRI Symposium members also focused on

farm liaison Paul Wigsten, and lunch at St. Andrew’s Café. They

the issue of the American food critics, whom they feel lack a true

had a wide-ranging discussion about CIA programs, with particular

understanding of authentic Italian cuisine. It was suggested that a

emphasis on the initiatives and research we have underway

definitive Italian cuisine manual be drafted for reference purposes.

regarding local sourcing, farm-to-table, and sustainability. Also discussed were several ways the CIA and the Department of Agriculture could work together. In fact, while at lunch, Secretary Vilsack sent a Blackberry message to the White House, encouraging the First Lady to become involved with the CIA.

CIA Alums Out in Full Force for Charity In June, Tim and his wife Lynne Weems Ryan ’87 attended the 25th annual benefit for Citymeals-on-Wheels. The event, chaired by Nick Valenti, CIA Board Chairman Emeritus and CEO of Patina Restaurant Group, featured top chefs from around the country. It looked like a CIA reunion with Charlie Palmer ’79, Larry Forgione ’74 and Mark Forgione, Melissa Kelly ’88, Chris Schlesinger ’78, Michael Mina ’89, Brad Ogden ’77, Todd English ’82, Jonathan Benno ’83, and Ed Brown ’83 all hosting (Panelists from left to right) Ennio Ranaboldo, CEO of Lavazza Coffee Company’s North America; Lou DiPalo, proprietor of DiPalo Fine Foods in New York; CIA Trustee Emeritus Ferdinand Metz; president ryan; Cesare Casella, chef-owner of NYC’s Salumeria Rosi; and Tony May of SD26

mise en place no.54, December 2010

stations in Rockefeller Center. Other chefs and restaurateurs in attendance were Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud, Nobu, Drew Nieporent, Wolfgang Puck, Mark Peel, and Jonathan Waxman, to name a few.

17


B.P.S. Students Create Dining Events

preserving summer

midsummer carnivale

from east to west

18

red, white, and brew

What does it really take to conceptualize, organize, implement,

As you can imagine, there is a great deal of discussion about

and ultimately produce an engaging evening for the public? In

themes, décor, roles, and responsibilities. Just as in the real world,

the CIA’s Restaurant Operations class, senior B.P.S. students

there are the usual personality clashes, philosophical differences,

learn exactly that. As their capstone project for the course, they

and people vying for leadership. Each group’s first charge is

essentially create their own themed dining event that is also a

getting consensus, and to do that they must choose a general

fund raiser for scholarships and local service agencies. From hors

manager for the event. Front- and back-of-the house leadership

d’oeuvre to desserts, decorations to glassware, service details to

comes next, and from there everyone takes on a role designed

cost management, menu development to marketing, entertainment

to foster success. Someone may be interested in going to the

to auction items, the evening falls squarely on the students’

local businesses to ask for silent auction items, another may feel

capable shoulders.

strongly about securing entertainment or working on the décor.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


But essential to each student’s involvement is the quality of the

a Carnivale. An elaborate hors d’oeuvre menu was served on the

food and the fluidity of service offered to patrons. When asked

plaza outside Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici where, eventually,

how all the facets of the evening come together, Red, White, and

a four-course meal was served. Monies raised ($6,698) from this

Brew event General Manager John Reese ’10 explained, “The

event were divided between the Brian Smith Memorial Scholarship

GM has to take the temperature of the group, stay alert to flagging

Fund and the Waner Children’s Vascular Anomaly Foundation.

interest levels, facilitate communication between the front- and back-of-the-house teams, and jump into the breech to do those administrative jobs no one is really assigned to but invariably crop up.” In June and August of this year, four B.P.S. events took place on the Hyde Park, NY campus. Each was inventive, flavorful, fun, and considered a great success by both students and patrons. Each raised money for CIA student scholarships as well as select community service organizations. Here’s a look at a few of them.

A Culinary Journey: From East to West In Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, guests enjoyed a culinary trip highlighting the great flavors of Asia, Mexico, Italy, and New England during a delicious five-course meal expertly paired with wines. Each course required a true mastery of the cuisine. Monies raised ($4,900) went to the Brian Smith Memorial Scholarship Fund at the CIA.

Midsummer Carnivale Jugglers, men on stilts, musicians, and banners fluttering in the wind let patrons of this event know that they had indeed arrived at

red, white, and brew students with instructor bill guilfoyle

Red, White, and Brew Beer-loving patriots flocked to this delightful event that coincided with the CIA’s annual Fourth of July fireworks display on Anton Plaza. The dinner paired foods from across the U.S. with unique beers supplied by Brewery Ommegang, a craft brewery from Cooperstown, NY. After the meal, diners strolled out to the plaza to enjoy a pyrotechnic extravaganza! Monies from the evening ($5,700) went to the Brian Smith Memorial Scholarship Fund and the National Military Family Association.

Preserving Summer On a glorious summer’s day in August, guests enjoyed hors d’oeuvre on Anton Plaza and had the opportunity to sample goods from purveyors like Taliaferro Farms, Nettle Meadow, Gill Corn Farm, Sorbello’s Greenhouses, and Montgomery Place Orchards, to name a few. Dinner and dancing to the toe-tapping music of Mama Tried followed in the beautifully decorated Farquharson Hall. The meal showcased spectacular local produce available in the Hudson Valley. Monies from this event, (approximately $7,800) were divided between the Peter F. Lenich Memorial Scholarship Fund and the Food Bank of the Hudson Valley.

19


Oaxacan Chiles

A Vital Part of Cuisine and Community By Iliana de la Vega

When I was growing up in Mexico City, my grandmother used

easy to leave and fulfill all of your passions. I was very interested

to send boxes filled with food from Oaxaca: chocolate, breads,

in the smoked pasilla chile, which is locally known as chile

meats, chiles, cheeses, and tortillas, among other things. When

Mixe (named after the area where the Mixe Indian live in the

my mom received those boxes, she would run to the kitchen and

mountains). I would always ask the chile vendors at the market

create a Oaxacan feast that could last for days. She prepared

if they could get me some fresh pasilla chiles; I wanted to taste

a variety of grilled meats, tlayudas, quesadillas, salsas, chiles

them in their fresh state. I tried for years and I did not understand

rellenos, and moles. For some reason the dark burgundy-red chiles

why they would not bring some with them, though they always

with the impressive smoky smell—the Oaxacan pasilla—always

had a great excuse for not doing so. Years passed, and I came to

attracted me. The beauty of the colorful chilhuacle and the

learn that they were not allowed to bring fresh chiles outside their

translucence of the red chilcostle also proved irresistible.

villages. The reason is simple: when the chiles are smoked, the

Years later when I lived in Oaxaca, my passion for the native chiles grew even more. But when you have a restaurant, it is not

20

seeds die, but fresh chiles have viable seeds. The vendors did not want their chiles to be grown anywhere else.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Ma’ach: A Celebratory Dish Lolita is a Mixe woman who used to work for me, and we would talk about the ingredients and dishes prepared by the people in Tlahuitoltepec, her native town. She once mentioned a celebratory food called Ma’ach, which was a very intriguing dish I have never fully understood.

Oaxaca; that Lolita is Mixe; and that Elizabeth is an American and she and I both work for the CIA. In the end, he offered to take us to where he grows the chiles: on a steep mountain a two-and-a-half-hour hike away. We were so close yet so far from the source and it was getting late. Mr. Macedonio took his machete with him to cut the weeds and kill snakes if necessary. After a while, I realized that we were in the

When I started working at the Center for Foods of the Americas

middle of nowhere, with no cellular signal, and that no one knew

at the CIA, I was thrilled to be asked to conduct the first research

where we were. Exhausted and with a few bruises, we spotted the

trip to Oaxaca. I contacted Lolita to see if she could join us and

greenhouse. Mr. Macedonio had built it to produce more chiles, in

guide us to her native town to see the chiles growing, and she

addition to the ones he grows outside it.

agreed. We drove for three and a half hours on very narrow, curvy roads in the mountains. I have to admit that I did not fully enjoy the beautiful views, as I get carsick. When we finally arrived in her village, we were delighted to enjoy the Ma’ach, which is prepared with halfway-cooked blue corn masa that is placed in a specific clay vessel called mä’äts ï’ïnj and cooked in a delicate and spicy pumpkin seed sauce called tsapök me’ij. It is a ritual that comes to life every year on August 1, the official day to plant the corn. Since it was not August when we visited, it meant that we were guests of

Seeing the Pasilla Oaxaqueno Chile or Pasilla Mixe Chile When fresh, the chile is dark green with shades of black. Depending on the crop, the size of the chile varies; the first crop is the largest and the third crop the smallest. We witnessed the second crop—chiles about two inches long. I was thrilled.

honor. The dish is served with charales (tiny freshwater fried fish),

Now I wanted to see the smoking process. To this request, he

tasajo asado (salted dried meat), steamed wild greens, and a fresh

asked, “Really? Are you sure?” I said that I did and thought,

chile pasilla: slightly fire-roasted and sprinkled with lime juice

“Why is he asking me if I’m sure? We obviously want to see the

and salt. When fresh, the chile is extremely spicy and it has a very

whole process or at least get an idea of it.” Well, the reason he was

unique and long-lasting bright, herbal flavor, with the heat felt in

asking was because he smokes the chiles in a natural cave that was

the back of the mouth.

located two hours away. At that point, what else could we do? We kept on hiking. It was getting late and soon it would be dark.

The Chile Journey In Tlahui we learned that the chile grows in only three places; fortunately, the closest was across the road. Well, that “across the road” took us two and a half hours to get to. We were told about a chile grower who lived in the area, so we walked to his house. After we introduced ourselves, Mr. Macedonio brought four chairs. Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick, my research colleague; Lolita; and I were asked to sit in front of him, and the interrogation began. He was questioning why we were there, where we came from, and why we were interested in the chile. He spoke mostly in Spanish and at times in Mixe with Lolita. The questioning ended after an hour and a half, when he was finally convinced that our stories were true—that I am Mexican and my family is from San Pablo Huixtepec, Oaxaca and I used to have a restaurant in

mise en place no.54, December 2010

I asked him if he had a donkey he used to carry the chiles but he said he didn’t, because the road is too steep for the animals. The chiles are put in large bags and they carry them on their backs themselves. Finally, we saw the large white stone cave, blackened from the smoke. Underneath the entrance, there was a 7 x 7 meter rustic tin box that had a small door-like hole used to get young wood inside it. Mr. Macedonio explained to us that after the wood was inside, he would cover the roof of the box with branches and leaves and then the chiles would be placed on top of all that. He would then light up the wood and see the smoke rise. After three and a half days the chiles would be smoked. Sounds simple, right? Well, Mr. Macedonio and his family gather wood sticks and branches from the ground; they do not chop the wood from trees to get the fire going. Then they camp on the ground for those three

21


days. At least one of them has to stay awake all night to take care of

• Guila Naquitz is a cave located 30 miles from Oaxaca City, where

the smoke and fire, and they always keep the machete handy in case

archeologists found the oldest trace of agriculture in America—

there is a snake or another wild creature.

squash, corn, and chiles that go back 10,000, 7,000, and 1,500 years,

After all my curiosity was satisfied, we started walking to where Mr. Macedonio told our driver to wait for us. I did not dare ask him how far that was. Interestingly enough, our driver was just a 15-minute walk away, which means that the long hike was just the price we had to pay to see the chile; Mr. Macedonio wanted to make sure we were serious about it. We finally arrived in Oaxaca City around midnight.

respectively. • Chiles cross-pollinate easily and terroir is key to preserving the specific characteristics of each different chile. • Native chiles are essential to traditional Oaxacan cuisine. • Only small producers grow native Oaxacan chiles. These humble growers sell the chiles for just pennies to middlemen, who then sell

Chilhuacle and Chilcostle Chiles

them in larger markets for 10 times the price they paid. The growers

Located about a three-hour drive west from Oaxaca City, La Cañada

labor-intensive crops like coffee and mangoes.

is an area where the chilhuacle and the chilcostle chiles grow. We went in late April, and stopped at the village market in Cuicatlán looking for the chiles. We were only able to find chilhuacles there. We then drove to the address we had for the spot where a local chile

The local chiles and some herbs are endangered, and thus Oaxacan cuisine is endangered. We should look for sources that work on a fair trade basis that supports the growers.

grower kept his dried produce. We had the chance to talk to him and

The chiles of Oaxaca are part of the life in the communities. Besides

he explained to us the delicate labor required to grow the chile, how

the influence of the terroir, the chiles are what they are because of

sensitive it is to climate changes and plagues, and how little money the

human handling and domestication. If the chiles disappear, it will be

people make from growing them.

a huge loss for world gastronomy; but if the communities that are built

Lessons Learned

around them are gone, that will be a catastrophe.

Some of the important things we learned from our research include:

Latin cuisine specialist for the college’s Center for Foods of the Americas. She

• Oaxaca is one of the very few places in the world that has so many microclimates.

22

barely scratch out a living and for this reason are switching to less-

Iliana de la Vega is a chef-instructor at the CIA, San Antonio and a Mexican/ is the former executive chef-owner of El Naranjo, an acclaimed restaurant in Oaxaca, Mexico.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Job Search 101 To Whom It May Concern By Ron Hayes ’02

“We do not have customers,” a former employer corrected me.

know the company. It posts its history and philosophy for a reason—

“Used car dealerships have customers. We have guests.”

an organization wants guests and potential employees to understand

As hospitality professionals, we understand that

its intent and approach. Remember, if sharing that

our success is based upon how well we create an

information weren’t important to the company, it

individual experience for our guests.

wouldn’t be posted on the site.

Addressing guests by name and

Now that you know something about the

accommodating their requests usually

company, look at your own history, skill sets

translates into repeat business. Both

and accomplishments. Identify experiences

we and our employers ultimately

in your past that connect directly with

benefit by creating a connection

those the potential employer is looking

with our guests. Unfortunately,

for. When writing your cover letter, use

many of us forget that simple truth

similar language. For example, “Speed,

during a job search, when making a

Precision, Finesse” is one of the mantras

connection can mean the difference

of the Thomas Keller Organization.

between success and failure.

Guess which words you should

Have you ever really paid attention

include in your introductory letter?

to a letter addressed “To Whom

Or barring that, consider similar words

it May Concern?” Well, sending

that imply the same skills and commitment.

a cover letter addressed to “Dear

If qualifications are listed, be certain to address

Hiring Manager” and “Dear Sir or Madam” is likely to net the same lack of attention. These impersonal greetings immediately send the message that you don’t care enough about the job or business to expend a little effort to learn the name of the person who has the power to give you the job. In an economy where there are more candidates than jobs,

those in both your introduction and résumé. Craft your introductory letter using the information you have gathered: • Address the letter to an individual. • Indicate the position you are applying for. • Use specific examples to demonstrate how you will be a benefit to

candidates can’t afford to turn off a potential employer before they

them, revealing your similar experience, philosophy, and approach

even make their pitch.

to guests’ needs.

Finding a name can be as easy as looking at a company’s Web site.

• Tell them how to reach you, and be sure to thank them.

Many companies have an “About Us” section with bios of senior

Remember that though your cover letter—and résumé for that

management. These are the people who make employment decisions. No names on the site? Try your favorite search engine. Utilize the search capabilities of LinkedIn.com to find current employees. Look for high-level titles. These are the decision-makers. If all else fails, call up the property. You can say, “I am sending a letter to the [chef, manager, owner] and wanted to confirm the spelling of their name.” You’ll get it. Once you have a name, plug it into your favorite search engine, LinkedIn, or Facebook. Find out what you can about the person’s work

matter—is about you, it is for the potential employer. Do not ask them to understand how awesome you are; rather, demonstrate that you understand their way of doing business and how that dovetails with your skills and philosophy. Show that you are interested in what they are doing, and they will be more inclined to be interested in you. Ensure your success; take time to make those important connections. Ron Hayes is a CIA career development officer.

history and philosophy. Go back to the company’s Web site and get to

mise en place no.54, December 2010

23


Book Shelf

Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival Cookbook

Complete Book of Knife Skills

By Lee Schrager ’79

Here is a great book for the food enthusiast in your life who

For the past nine years, for one weekend in February, celebrated

wants to know more about the knife skills necessary to cut

chefs from around the world converge on Miami for The Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival. Brainchild of CIA alumnus and festival impresario Lee Schrager, the festival has grown into the largest culinary event in the country. Between the covers of this cookbook, you’ll find fun and revealing

By Jeffrey Elliot ’92 and James DeWan

vegetables and fruits, de-bone poultry, cut meat and fish, carve, and create decorative garnishes with ease. Filled with step-by-step, detailed pictures on every page, this book makes it easy to develop the skills to wield a kitchen knife with confidence and authority.

conversations with culinary luminaries as well as the secrets to some of their signature dishes. The stories and recipes are delightful to read and delicious to prepare.

24

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Baby Love: Healthy, Easy, Delicious Meals for Your Baby and Toddler

Closed on Tuesdays: Favorite Recipes of Beaufort Grocery Company

By Geoff Tracy ’98 and Norah

By Charles

O’Donnell

Park ’85 and Wendy Park

At a time when one in three children in America is overweight and most studies reveal fast and processed foods are partly to blame for children’s unhealthy eating habits, Chef Geoff Tracy took the birth of his three children as a call to action. Baby Love was created to provide parents of babies and toddlers with quick, easy, and delicious natural foods to feed their little ones. With lots of nutrition tips and chef’s notes, this book is a user-friendly “must have”

Experience the culinary charm of the quaint coastal town of Beaufort, NC in this book by Charles Park. Divided into “day” and “night,” each chapter takes you from light lunchtime fare to white tablecloth dinner preparations. From Carolina rémoulade to Virginia seafood casserole, from mess o’ clams to Mizz Alice’s coconut pound cake, you will find the classic and the unique in this lovingly prepared collection.

for new parents.

New Orleans Kitchens: Recipes from the Big Easy’s Best Restaurants

Cooking Close to Home: A Year of Seasonal Recipes By Richard Jarmusz ’79 and Diane Imrie This collection of over 150 original recipes

By Stacey Meyer

is designed to take

’98 and Troy

you on a culinary

Gilbert

journey through

Take a

the seasons. Each

delectable

recipe includes

stroll through

useful “Harvest

the heart

Hints” that explain

of New Orleans

how to find, purchase, prepare, and

for a sample of its matchless fare, redolent with the influences of French, Spanish,

preserve fresh and seasonal ingredients. Within each chapter, you will find information about sustainable food,

Italian, African, Cajun, and Cuban cuisine. You’ll get a peek into the

small family farms, and how to reduce your carbon footprint. The

kitchens of some of the Big Easy’s great restaurants for their take on

attractive photos and inspiring stories of farms, orchards, and

such classics as po’boys, crawfish étouffée, gumbo, jambalaya, and

farmers’ markets will have you turning to this book over and

beignets. Peppered throughout the book is beautiful original artwork

over again.

straight out of New Orleans galleries. Laissez les bon temps rouler!

mise en place no.54, December 2010

25


From Kitchen Vet to

Successful Entrepreneur By Joe Abuso ’94

All of us who have a CIA diploma as an arrow in our quiver of accomplishments already have what it takes to succeed in many segments of the food and beverage industry. We leave school

Even if you think you’re not quite ready to take that entrepreneurial

with a fantastic introduction to the basics of cooking, service,

step, you can at least look at your current job in a new light. Start

beverages, and cost control. Hopefully, we then spend several

thinking of it as a training ground for opening your own place. Ask

years honing those skills in various establishments, eventually

yourself the question, “If I had to take over the whole operation

figuring out which aspects of the business we enjoy the most

tomorrow, what wouldn’t I have a clue about?” It might be the duties

and at which we are most likely to succeed.

of the pastry chef, sommelier, banquet salesmen, or bookkeeper. I’m

No matter which corner of food and beverage most attracts you; the process of advancement is the same. First, we are given smaller, more specific jobs to handle. When we master these, our jobs gradually get larger and more general and, eventually,

not saying that you’ll have to do every job like you’ve been doing it all your life, but at least start to become familiar with what it takes to run the show. Ask lots of questions.

we find ourselves responsible for an entire segment of the

Becoming Bold

business. Whether you go from peeling potatoes to supervising

Starting your own company builds on everything you’ve

every aspect of a busy kitchen or from stocking cases of wine to

accomplished so far in your career. And none of these new tasks are

running a dining room that seats 250, the process is similar. It

any harder than things you’ve already done. It’s a finite, doable set

is a satisfying feeling to know that you are progressing in your

of skills and tasks. Start by talking to people who have owned or

career even though it will involve having more on your plate

currently own the kind of business that interests you. If you don’t

than is comfortable at times. Whether you reach that point as a

feel like you know any well enough to have a good conversation

line cook, executive chef, bartender or maître d’, the point is to

with them, change that. (See Essential First Steps below.) There are

progress as far as you can and make the most of every step.

plenty of shy cooks, but no shy entrepreneurs. You’ll be surprised

But what about the person who is never really satisfied in one

at how willing successful people are to help. If you come across one

particular position? No matter how big their “station” gets,

who’s not, move on to another and don’t look back.

it’s never enough for them. If you’re the kind of person who

Owning your own place is not something that happens overnight.

gladly masters your current workload but is just as eager to

I thought about it for years before I took the plunge. If you think it

understand and try your hand at what’s going on next to you,

might be for you, it’s never too early to at least start considering it.

then owning your own business might be the perfect vehicle.

It’s always good to look ahead to your next step. After running my

For me, that meant starting a full-service catering company.

successful catering company for 13 years, I realized it was time to

I had done everything in F&B—washing dishes, waiting tables

do something new. I sold it, and am now very happy doing food &

(both pre-CIA), being a line cook, tending bar, and eventually becoming an executive chef at a great property. At every point, I not only wanted to do my best at my particular job, but also was also very interested in everything that was going on around me. Little by little, I realized that being responsible for as many aspects of an operation as possible would be more fun than just spending my days working a station. I also couldn’t help but notice the financial cap that employers seemed to place on members of my culinary fraternity, and that owners seemed to endure no such limits.

26

Live and Learn

beverage consulting, working with start-ups, established concerns, and owners looking to sell and move on. One of the nice things about the foodservice industry is that there’s always an interesting next act if you’re flexible and open to the possibilities.

Essential First Steps While the things that need to get done before opening a new venture vary based on the business in question, there are some similarities that can’t be denied. Here is a list of some of the essential steps all entrepreneurs must go through.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


• Everything you do should be done with the idea of slowly

• Get help in writing a good business plan. This will address every

developing genuine, mutually beneficial relationships based on trust,

issue you’ll need to deal with, including your concept, personnel,

respect, and amiability. Don’t spend time on superficial, short-term

competition, operations, funding, growth, and finances.

“networking.” • Join organizations and get involved with activities that will put you into contact with colleagues as well as potential clients. • Once you’ve decided a group has potential for you, really get

• Follow the plan, realizing you’ll have to be more flexible, tenacious, and patient, and work harder and longer than ever before. Believe in yourself, and remember, it will be worth it! • Advertising and social media can be good for establishing a presence

involved. Conversely, don’t hesitate to drop out if you decide it’s a

if your message is focused and targeted. An attractive and informative

waste of your time.

Web site can offer instant credibility, but only to a point.

• When attending various functions, go with clear, attainable goals in

The more people who know you as a competent, likeable person who

mind. Don’t just go and “hope for the best.” Maybe your goal is to

does what they say they’re going to do, the more quickly word-of-mouth

talk with two or three people over the course of the evening. Start

will build your business.

small if you have to.

27


KUDOS

of Royal Caribbean were Senior Vice President of Hotel Operations Lisa Bauer and Vice President of Food & Beverage Operations Frank Weber. After impressing the judges with her menu of Chilled Lobster, Provençal Lamb Loin, and Pistachio Cake, Molly—who had already been awarded “fan favorite video”—was crowned the winner. “Each of the finalists truly showcased their passion and knowledge in the kitchen,” affirmed Royal Caribbean’s Lisa Bauer. In fact, the judges were so impressed with second place winner Daniel Fein, they offered him a position on the company’s Oasis of the Sea. Clearly, whether on the sea or land, CIA graduates are sought after and in demand.

Summer in the City It had been 10 years since he had set foot on the streets of New York City, and two since he had promised himself he would return. So when Marc Dunham ’99 received the invitation to prepare an Oklahomainspired steak dinner at the James Beard House, he just knew the time was right. Calm and practiced, Marc and his culinary team from The Atherton Hotel and Rancher’s Club at Oklahoma State University— where he is director of food and beverage—shipped 10 coolers of

“Seas”oned Competition Winner

partially prepped food to New York City. That calm momentarily shattered when his sous chef pointed out that coolers number eight

When Royal Caribbean International needed to find the chef de

and 10 were lost! Without missing a beat, Marc called the carrier. Two

cuisine for 15 Central Park, the signature restaurant aboard its newest

hours later, he was on the phone again, locating food for two entire

ship Allure of the Seas, they turned to the CIA. With the ship’s maiden

courses. Naturally, they were the courses that would take the longest to

voyage scheduled for December 2010, the cruise line needed a sure-

prepare. Marc told his team. “It’s just going to be a longer day of prep

fire way to find a top-notch chef—and soon.

tomorrow, but we’ll be fine.” The team didn’t seem convinced.

Enter the Allure of the Seas Culinary Challenge—a contest open

From the moment they entered the James Beard House kitchen the

exclusively to graduates of the CIA. The prize was a one-year, paid

next day, they were completely focused on preparation. But before

contract to “captain” the new ship’s kitchen. Entrants submitted

they knew it—seemingly in the blink of an eye—family, friends, and

an online video featuring an original recipe that was judged by

supporters from Oklahoma State University were coming through the

consumers. Then, six finalists, Maureen “Molly” Brandt ’06,

kitchen taking pictures. The hour had arrived—dinner was served and

Anthony Burd ’09, Daniel Fein ’03, W. Wright Harrison III ’06,

was a great success!

Martin Horsey ’08, and Beth Little John ’06, were brought to the CIA’s Hyde Park campus for a final two-day culinary challenge. They faced in-depth interviews and prepared a three-course meal for a distinguished panel of judges. Representing the CIA were Associate Vice President of Business Development Dr. Victor Gielisse, C.M.C. and Associate Dean for Culinary Fundamentals and Assessment Lou Jones. Judging on behalf

28

molly brandt preparing winning dish

james beard foundation dinner

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Jones Dairy Farm

From Sausage to Scholarships Back in the 1880s, a dairy farmer from Fort Atkinson, WI named

degree in culinary arts, have a GPA of 3.0 or higher, demonstrate an

Milo Jones had a vision that he could make a living selling sausage

entrepreneurial spirit, submit a 500-word essay, and create an original

made from his mother’s recipe. So Milo began making sausage for his

recipe using a Jones Dairy Farm product. The recipe submission must

family and neighbors. Word quickly spread about his great-tasting

explain how the properties of the product affected the development of

product and by

the recipe. A CIA

1889, Milo was

chef-instructor

selling his “famous”

evaluates the

sausage throughout

submission.

the Midwest and

Thanks to Jones

beyond.

Dairy Farm,

Today, more than

14 students

120 years later,

have received

the company Milo

this substantial

started, Jones Dairy

tuition assistance

Farm, remains

to date. “Over

family-run and

the past five

operated, producing

years, we have

high quality ham,

found that our

bacon, Canadian

relationship with

bacon, and all-

CIA students and

natural sausage.

faculty is a very

Still located at the

good fit,” explains

original family farm

Mr. Jones.

in Fort Atkinson, the company has

“We are truly

philip jones, president of jones dairy farm

impressed by the

nonetheless become

entrepreneurial

an internationally distributed retail and foodservice brand. And it all

spirit the Jones Scholarship recipients display in their time at the CIA

started with one man, a simple idea, and the spirit of entrepreneurship.

and we’re thrilled that our involvement helps shape the future leaders

Many in the foodservice industry are also entrepreneurs and can

of the foodservice industry.”

recognize the determination, perseverance, pride, and skill Milo Jones

In honor of Jones Dairy Farm’s commitment to the CIA, the quantity

demonstrated all those years ago. The special spark that occurs when

food production kitchen was renamed “The Jones Dairy Farm

an idea or product has the potential to become something greater than

Kitchen.” This kitchen serves more than 500 plates of breakfast, lunch,

the sum of its parts is exactly what the Jones family hopes to inspire in

and dinner daily to the hardworking CIA students.

CIA students.

“Giving to the CIA means playing a vital and active role in shaping

Trustee Emeritus Jeff Berlind introduced the company to the CIA

the future of the foodservice industry,” says CIA Vice President of

and you could say it was love at first bite. In 2005, Philip H. Jones,

Advancement Nancy Harvin. “We are delighted to work with Jones

president of Jones Dairy Farm, and the great-great-grandson of

Dairy Farm in helping young people meet their potential.”

company founder Milo Jones, made a significant commitment to the CIA’s scholarship program. The Jones Dairy Farm Endowed Scholarship is one of the largest the CIA awards. Each year, three deserving students receive a $12,500 scholarship. Students eligible for

Approximately 90% of CIA students receive some form of financial assistance. If you or your company are interested in creating a scholarship, please contact the CIA Office of Advancement at 845-905-4275.

this award must be either a junior or senior pursuing a baccalaureate

mise en place no.54, December 2010

29


Why Give?

Timothy M. Ardinger ’83, C.D.M., C.F.P.P.

What Makes Giving Meaningful?

Foodservice Director, Allegheny Valley School, Hummelstown, PA.

I know how important giving can be because I was once on the

Timothy Ardinger has spent the last 16 years as foodservice

am able to give, it’s meaningful to know that I am helping another

director at the Allegheny Valley School, a residential school

student to have a good experience at the CIA.

receiving end of generosity. While I was a student, I obtained grants and loans that allowed me to finish the program. Now that I

for mentally challenged individuals with physical disabilities. Combining all the skills and creativity he learned at the CIA with the knowledge he gained becoming a Certified Dietary Manager and a Certified Food Protection Professional, Timothy develops nutritious and delicious meals for students.

How Do You Give? I write a check every year to the Annual Fund. I am not sure I would have written a check as regularly as I did over the past 20 years without a call or letter from the school to remind me. I might

What Motivates You to Give?

be tempted to give more often if there was a special project, such

Maintaining a connection with the CIA is my chief motivation. I

instructor that needed my support.

as an Alumni Kitchen or a project in honor of a favorite chef-

want to remain part of the school even though it has been 25-plus years since I attended. The Culinary keeps growing, not only in the number of buildings and programs but also the opportunities that it gives to students. I know that tuition alone doesn’t pay all the bills and fuel growth. I want to contribute to the growth of the institute and help keep the CIA a leader in culinary education. By giving back, I like to think that I’m important to the school in some small way. And, I have always believed that if you give back, you get back.

30

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Giving’s Impact

Chris Lauber ’10 Major: B.P.S. in Culinary Arts Management Recipient of the Jones Dairy Farm Scholarship

Hopes for the Future

College Highlight

really getting from the kitchen. Don’t get me wrong, there are many,

Being the president of Student Programming was one of the

the experience directly with the guest.

highlights of my college career. I was in charge of budgeting and producing both large and small campus events for all of my peers. My committee and I had to create events that catered to the most diverse campus that I have ever seen. I’ve also been active in the Deans’ Council for the bachelor’s program. Because of my position on the council, I have been able to make great connections with the administration, and learn interpersonal skills by hosting faculty forums with the rest of the council members. Both of these highlights have offered me a great chance to sharpen my management skills.

I plan to attend Michigan State University for either my M.B.A. or my Master’s in Hospitality Management. Following my graduation from MSU I am hoping to open my own business group or work for a large corporation of hotels to further sharpen my management skills. I like working with people, and that is something I wasn’t many things I love about the kitchen, but I like the ability to impact

The Impact I was on my way to class when I received the phone call from the Financial Aid Office about the scholarship. The lady on the phone asked if I was sitting down, and then proceeded to tell me that I had won a major scholarship. However, I found out that the scholarship had more than just a financial reward. Philip Jones actually flew me out to the farm to meet with him and tour the facilities. In conversation, he explained that before taking over the family business, he had to prove that he could run one of his own. Mr.

Outside Interest/Hobbies

Jones also demonstrated that it is important to interact with students

I’m an adrenaline junkie! I am currently working towards my

and managers forget or choose not to do. I plan on following this

skydiving license, as well as competing in paintball tournaments.

philosophy in my businesses whenever it is applicable. Again, I have

I also like being a DJ at different events on the weekends.

to thank everyone who made this scholarship possible, as it has

mise en place no.54, December 2010

and employees. This is something that many CEOs, presidents,

helped me both financially and professionally.

31


Alumni Council Corner Many of you have asked for more

Eddie Ledesma ’05,

specific information about your

Communications Liaison.

Alumni Council members and their

In his role as Alumni Council

roles. So for the next few editions

communications liaison, Eddie

of mise en place, you’ll get a chance

updates you about happenings on

to “meet” some of them and learn

our campuses through our online

about the work they are doing with

communication networks. You

the Council.

might have seen Eddie on Twitter,

Dale Miller ’79, Chairman. Dale

LinkedIn, and Facebook promoting

has taken over leadership of the Council from Waldy Malouf ’75, who has spent the last two years helping to launch the Council and connect alumni to each other and the college. Dale’s commitment to the CIA is well-

our alumni receptions, regional events, and Homecoming weekend. He has quite the following! Eddie is also lending his tech-savvy talents to the Admissions Office by hosting live, one-on-one chats with prospective students

known and extends to his highly successful annual CorCIA

who are interested in the B.P.S. program.

Food, Wine, and Golf Outing to benefit student scholarships at

Eddie is a manager at Ocean Prime, a Cameron Mitchell

both the CIA and Cornell. In 2009, Dale opened Dale Miller

Restaurant, in Dallas, TX. His background includes stints at the

Restaurant in Albany, NY to rave reviews and recently took

Ritz-Carlton in Naples, FL; Restaurant Associates in Philadelphia,

over Sperry’s Restaurant, a landmark property in Saratoga

PA; and Darden Restaurants in New Jersey.

Springs, NY. Prior to that, Dale was the executive chef at Jack’s Oyster House in Albany, NY, earning many industry awards. In 2003, the CIA Board of Trustees honored him a Member of the Corporation (M.O.C.) of the Year.

’61

To learn more about your Alumni Council, update your employment or personal info, or get involved, just visit www. ciaalumninetwork.com, send an e-mail to alumni@culinary.edu, or give us a call at 845 451-1401.

Steven D. Levin recently

owner of Carlisle Bay Hospitality in

retired as a Pennsylvania

Newburyport, MA. Bradley Jacob is the

’77

Frank Ikemeier is the vice president of food and beverage

certified executive chef and culinary arts

owner/contractor for Rachelle Homes,

for Lodging Hospitality Management in

teacher. In March 1996, he was honored

LLC in Nashville, TN. He has been mar-

St. Louis, MO.

as “Outstanding Vocational Special Needs

ried for 27 years and has two children and

Teacher of the Year.” He is currently

three grandchildren.

self-employed as a food production and management services consultant in Tigard, OR. Steven moved to Oregon with his entire family to be closer to his new 20-month-old grandson. He has never been happier.

’68

culinary arts at the University

lege in Honolulu, HI. He was recently inducted into the American Academy of

Robert Lemond is diet

Culinary Federation.

food and nutrition manager

New York.

’76

a food and nutrition services

Jay Morimoto is selfemployed and living in

Honolulu, HI. He has his own Wolf range and loves it.

ters with Eurest Dining in New York City.

for the Simpson Corpora-

tion in Salem, MA. She participated in her first triathlon in July 2010. Julie has a

’83

Adam Glinert is general manager at Buttermilk Falls

Inn & Spa in Milton, NY. The historic 75-acre property is perched on cliffs

’80

Paul John Hanke is the owner of Express Station,

Inc. in Belmar, NJ. Lloyd Jurman is the executive chef at Seaqua Deli & Caterers

Donald Eagle is general

for American Express World HeadquarPaul R. Block has retired as

’78

in Massapequa, NY. manager of executive dining

Julie Megna Lynch is chef

12-year-old daughter.

of Hawaii, Kapiolani Community Col-

Chefs, the honor society of the American

for Healthcare Services Group, Inc. in

’72

’74

Frank Leake is professor of

’82

overlooking the Hudson River.

’84

Martha Huestis is food service director for York

County Shelter Programs, Inc. In 2009, she received the National Women’s Stud-

’81

David Dickson is a food demonstrator for Advantage

Sales & Marketing in Vero Beach, FL.

ies Association “Outstanding Graduate of Women & Gender Studies” award for her ongoing work helping the homeless and hungry. She was married in May 2010.

supervisor. Robert C. Bryant is the

32

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


’85

Alan Skversky is director of research and development for

RealMex Restaurants in Union City, CA. He married in October 2009.

’94

Melissa Schell is executive pastry chef at the Bellefonte

Country Club in Ashland, KY. She won first prize at the Festival of Trees Gingerbread House Contest at the Paramount

’86

David Leicht has a new position as the regional

culinary director for Aramark Dining Services, Eastern Region Higher Education Division.

’88

Justin D. Ward is chefinstructor at The Art Institute

of Atlanta in Atlanta, GA. He won the 2008 Ocean Spray Ultimate Cranberry Recipe contest. Justin loves to ride his motorcycles.

’90

Brett Boon is a culinary arts instructor for Essex County

Vocational School in Newark, NJ. One of his students placed third at the 2010 New Jersey SkillsUSA foodservice competition. Matthew Sandlin is the owner of Green Earth Company in Temecula, CA. Matthew and his wife welcomed their fifth

Arts Theater in Ashland. Kenneth Taylor II is sous chef, culinary partnerin-training at P.F. Chang’s in Fairfax, VA. He got married in June 2010.

’95

Troy Guyer is executive chef for Fleet Landing in

Jacksonville, FL. In his off hours he enjoys restoring classic cars. He’s currently working on a ’95 Mustang GT convertible and a ’62 Triumph MR3 convertible.

’97

Salvatore Cucullo is chef/ owner of The 808 Bistro is

activities—especially the Epicures of Wine club for which David was president. Both were very active students. David served on the

Fort Lauderdale, FL.

’98

porate executive chef for

Arby’s Restaurant Group in Atlanta,

of operations at Butler’s Pantry, a catering

Compass Group. He welcomed his new

company in St. Louis, MO. In 2008, Greg

son in March 2010.

partnered with another St. Louis catering

Pantry was named “Best Caterer” at Saint Louis Bride magazine’s inaugural St. Louis Wedding Awards.

’91

’99

Alex Bias has been named executive chef for Deer Ridge

Golf Club in Bellville, OH. He is the youngest executive chef in the club’s history. Scott Molyneaux is butcher

lost touch. Some 20 years later, Michael, a portfolio manager for Vintner Select, was representing his company at an American Institute of Wine and Food Gourmet Dinner. The event, held at Wright Patterson Air Force Base in Dayton, OH, was prepared by none other than Executive Chef David Glynn. Both men had obviously returned to their roots in Ohio. The unexpected reunion has resulted in a renewal of the friendship, so long-forgotten, as well as a food and wine collaboration that both

and head of retail operations for Bill

are thoroughly enjoying. Since that first meeting, the pair has joined

the Butcher, located in Seattle, WA. The

forces to create various dinners including a Mardi Gras event at the

company currently has five locations in

Air Force base.

Washington State that focus on bringing

chef at The Claremont Hotel

local, organic, sustainably farmed and

Their lives had paralleled for years and when they decided to have

pastured meat to consumers.

a special luncheon to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their CIA

com named him the 2010 Rising Star Hotel Chef. Jason Ulak is executive chef for the River Town & Country Club in Mount Pleasant, SC.

graduation, they discovered yet another connection. Turns out

’00

Rebecca Peizer is executive

both men were mentored by well-known Dayton restaurateur Jay

chef for the private luxury

Haverstick. David knew him when he had his own restaurants, The

retreat Elk Creek Ranch in Meeker, CO. Rebecca took first place in both the Na-

Peasant Stock and Peasant by the River in Dayton. Michael knew Jay in his role as wine portfolio manager. Both David and Michael

Christian Mailloux is gen-

tional Pork Board of Elegance Competi-

eral manager and executive

tion and the Italian Culinary Institute for

took the opportunity of their own celebration to honor the memory

Foreigners Sintonie International Olive

of their deceased friend at Jay’s Seafood restaurant.

chef of The Lenox Club in Lenox, MA.

Oil competition.

’93

friends could be, they graduated and then did the unthinkable—they

Josh Thomsen is executive

Club & Spa in Berkeley, CA. Starchefs.

’92

student council and Mark was editor of the student newspaper as well as head of the student judiciary review board. Close as two

Jennifer Holwill is cor-

purchasing director for Levy Restaurants/

Food Network Challenge. In 2009, Butler’s

Their friendship grew as they shared their classes and campus

executive chef at Morton’s of Chicago, in

GA. Andrew McDonnell is regional

tering professionals on the popular series

when Michael Brown ’84 met a fellow Ohioan, David Glynn ’84.

Scarsdale, NY. Jeffrey A Yoakum is

fuss is executive chef and vice president

compete against three other pairs of ca-

A Tale of Two Alums After making the trip to the Hyde Park, NY campus, it was a relief

child in September 2009. Greg Ziegen-

company, The Art of Entertaining, to

michael brown (left) and david glynn (right)

Francis “Chip” Smith is chef/owner of Bonne Soirée

Restaurant in Chapel Hill, NC. Stephen I. Williams is sous chef for the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center

’02

Melissa L. Smith is a wine and spirits consultant for

K&L Wine Merchants in Redwood City, CA. Melissa just released her wine pro-

in Nashville, TN.

mise en place no.54, December 2010

The two friends won’t be losing sight of each other again. Both have found that they enjoy doing events together, reminiscing about their days at the CIA, and planning for the future. Michael may say it best when he explains, “The Culinary Institute of America provided us with the outstanding background we needed to be successful in the food and wine industry.”

33


Scratching Out Success Matthew Tilden ’02 truly believes that he can change lives with just four ingredients—flour,

nunciation iPhone app, The Enotria Guide

Café Manager-in-Training at the CIA’s

for Enthusiasts and Professionals.

Hyde Park campus to become purchasing assistant at the much-anticipated café at

’03

Steven Ciccone will be managing the Cake Decorat-

ing with the Masters event at the Wyndham Virginia Beach Oceanfront hotel in March 2011. James Filtz is manager of

’08

Collette M. Haw is line cook at The Ravenous Pig

in Winter Park, FL. Gregory Neal, Jr.

weddings for the Venetian and Palazzo in

is a foodservice worker for Presbyterian

water, salt, and yeast.

Las Vegas, NV. Michael Matarazzo is

Intercommunity Hospital in Whittier,

And if you want to talk

executive chef at Bear Mountain Inn in

CA. Daniel Sherrett has successfully

Bear Mountain, NY. In August 2010, he

completed the introductory course and

received the ACF Chef of the Year award

exam for The Court of Master Som-

at the organization’s National Convention

meliers. Darek Tidwell has moved to

held in Anaheim, CA.

Washington, DC to work as banquet chef

about food democracy, Matthew is your guy. “There’s something powerful about the life of a loaf of bread,” he explains. “And delicious, wholesome food should be accessible.” He’d eventually like his company, SCRATCHbread, to provide the neighborhood in which it is located with a walk-up, wholesalepriced retail window to bring great flavor and nutrition to people who may have not been able to afford it previously. He also sees the need to establish an internship program for local teens. “What we’ve

under former instructor and executive

’04

Jerry Grant is sous chef for La Paloma in Memphis, TN.

He is engaged to Christine Nardon ’04. In 2009, they welcomed son Caleb.

confidence,” Matthew says. By baking with Matthew, youngsters gain perspective, work hard, and are empowered to try new things.

chef Jose Sanchez.

’09

Steven Bookbinder was awarded the prestigious

Congress-Bundestag Fellowship. Steven

’05

S. Doyle Orlando is executive chef at Jacmel Inn

in Hammond, LA and its sister restaurant Nuvolari’s in Mandeville, LA. He welcomed his first child in May 2010.

always wanted to give, besides delicious food, are the tools to build

will gain academic, professional, and international experience through the exchange program in Germany. Christopher Gourdine is decorator/mixer for Carlo’s Bake Shop (of TLC’s Cake Boss fame) in Hoboken, NJ. Christopher appeared on Season Two of Cake Boss and

’06

Christine Campbell is

will be appear on Season Three as well.

director of food & bever-

Brett Northcutt is sous chef for Chart-

age for Libby’s House in Plymouth, WI,

wells at Bowling Green State University

Surely, one of the other things youngsters would see is the amount

where she focuses on using only local

in Bowling Green, OH.

of work and perseverance necessary to make a go of any business

producers. She was recently invited to

venture. Matthew began his business by renting space during the wee

for a chance to win a $20,000 dona-

hours of the morning at a pizzeria with a wood-burning oven. As a one-man show, he sold his wares at the Brooklyn Flea (a well-known

compete in the Sears® Chef Challenge tion to Nourishfarms.org—the charity food bank in her hometown. While she didn’t win, Christine encourages everyone to

In Memoriam

donate to their local food banks. Mat-

Ronnie G. Mullins ’68

up some wholesale clients. But just as he considered hiring help, the

thew Glazer is general manager of The

Florence M. Novak ’73

pizzeria owner decided he no longer wanted to rent out the space.

with chef/owner Phil Wojtowica ’98

Bruce A. MacFadyer ’76

and Michelle Rizzolo ’98. Amanda

Michael F. Coffey ’77

Saturday market) and other venues. His clientele grew and he picked

Matthew went through three more shared kitchen situations that didn’t work out, losing many of his wholesale clients. Then just two days before SCRATCHbread was once again “homeless,” a family

Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant, working

LaVoie is head chef at Mountain View Grand Resort & Spa in Whitefield, NH.

Lawrence Romano ’79

Ruth Manwiler-Summers is chef for

Daniel M. Dickerson ’84

friend swept in and provided money to secure Matt’s new lease in his

Creations Café in West Reading, PA.

Timothy J. Link ’88

very own space in the Bedford-Stuyvesant section of Brooklyn, NY.

Census Bureau. Ruth got married in May

David Ira Rottenberg ’91

Though the neighborhood is poor and stressed, Matthew and

2010 and spent her honeymoon in Paris,

Wayne Webb, Jr. ’92

SCRATCHbread are on a mission to build community around

for U.S. Customs and Border Protection

common interests by breaking bread with neighbors. Success is still a dream, but Matthew considers his greatest asset in ensuring his

She also works part-time for the U.S.

France. Mary Monahan is an attorney

one loaf at a time.

David B. Sellers, Jr. ’96

in Washington, DC. Alexander Succop

Brandon T. Ezaki ’03

is executive chef for Aubriana’s Restau-

Sean Patrick Canty ’06

rant in Wilmington, NC.

success to be his stubbornness. He’s determined to scratch out success

34

the college’s new San Antonio campus.

’07

Jake Griffin recently left his

Samuel John Montgomery ’07 Linda Jean Henrikson ’08

position as Apple Pie Bakery

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Holiday Mishap Contest Winner…

Great stories of holiday menu mishaps came rolling in. We laughed so hard we had tears running down our cheeks. It was difficult to choose a winner, but choose we did. Read this!

I was cooking a Thanksgiving feast for 12 in my ill-equipped New York City apartment when my guests arrived and were drawn to my small kitchen by the aroma wafting from a wok full of giblets and veggie stock. Anticipation ran high for this soon-to-be gravy as we imagined it covering mounds of mashed potatoes and moist turkey. Surely, it would be the crowning moment of this “cook-a-thon.” As I carefully strained the stock over the sink, my guests watched in horror as they realized I’d failed to put a pot under the colander to catch the liquid gold. A day’s worth of flavor down the drain! Peter Pethybridge ’84

Where in the World is the CIA? Help us answer that question Take a picture of yourself with your CIA gear in places of interest around the world and send them to us. The most interesting photos will be included in our June 2011 edition of mise en place that will focus on where CIA alums are working worldwide. Be sure to take hi-resolution (300 dpi) pics and send them via e-mail to alumni@culinary.edu. Don’t have any CIA-branded gear? Head online to get hats, t-shirts, pants, sweatshirts, and all sorts of great CIA stuff. Gear is available at the Barnes & Noble Craig Claiborne Bookstore at the Hyde Park campus. Visit http://ciachef.bncollege. Senior Advancement Officer Patty Hamilton carrying a CIA tote near the Parthenon in Athens, Greece.

com. Looking for CIA at Greystone gear? Just visit www.ciastore.com and ask for a 20% discount.

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The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

At this time of year, we feel especially thankful and wish to extend our gratitude to the many alumni who: Hosted an admissions or alumni reception Mentored students Referred prospective students to the CIA Supported CIA scholarships Provided externship opportunities Donated gifts-in-kind Proctored an admissions test Helped at a college fair Recruited at an on-campus Career Fair Hired our students and alumni Held a demo or lecture at the CIA Attended a CIA event

Alumni Relations Admissions 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 ciaalumninetwork.com

Advancement 845-905-4275 ciagiving.org

All of us wish you and yours a happy holiday season! CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaprochef.com

General Information 845-452-9600

mise en place issue 54 Becoming an Entrepreneur  

mise en place is the college magazine for the alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America.

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