ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
No. 53, September 2010
Keys to Café Success
Keys to Café Success Essentials for creating a thriving café
16 China Road
A pictorial look at the B.P.S. food, wine, and agri(culture) trip
12 10 Years of Apple Pie
Celebrating the APBC’s anniversary
26 Investing in the Middle
Supporting your organization’s unsung heroes
12 18 Across the Plaza
Under the Toque | Following the Presidential Trail | It’s
16 27 Gifts at Work
The Power of Paella | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact
Chowda-Time | A Tradition of Sustainability: St. Andrew’s Café
21 Education for Life
Worlds of Flavor Conference | Book Shelf | Unique Program Graduates First Class | “Friending” & “Fanning” Your Career Kudos
30 Class Notes
Alumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam
No matter where in Europe or Latin America I have traveled, some of my most vivid memories are of hours spent in small cafés nibbling on pastry and sipping a latte, cappuccino, or hot chocolate. While sitting in those cafés I’d feel that, for a change, time was a friend, not an adversary.
mise en place® No. 53, September 2010 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer
That feeling, so easily evoked in Paris and Venice or Oaxaca and Santiago,
has made its way to America. We all owe a debt to Alfred Peet, the son of a
Ron Hayes ’02
Dutch coffee roaster, who came to the U.S. after WWII and found the state of
Sue Sorenson Lee
American coffee abysmal—after all, we were boiling our coffee in percolators!
Determined to bring good coffee to Americans, he opened Peet’s Coffee and
Tea in Berkeley, CA in 1966. His shop became Mecca for coffee devotees and
he was known for mercilessly browbeating his customers into appreciating the
art of fine brewing. At that time, only a smattering of coffeehouses existed in the U.S., so it
Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President
Chet Koulik Francisco Migoya
own coffee company, they headed to Seattle and named it after the first mate in
Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement
Moby Dick—Starbuck. They pluralized it for aesthetic reasons and were satisfied.
Mark Ainsworth ’86
The logo, designed by Heckler, represented a mermaid–like siren calling the
Brad Barnes ’87
sailors to a cup of coffee. Dare I say the rest is history?
Anthony Nogales ’88
Whatever one thinks about the mega-corporation that is Starbucks, that single
Ron DeSantis ’81
storefront in Seattle was the precursor to what we now call the American-style
Heather Kolakowski ’02
was Peet’s that caught the eye of three guys who loved great coffee and just happened to be looking for a way to make a living that didn’t include tiny offices and a nine-to-five existence. Gordon Bowker, Zev Siegl, and Jerry Baldwin went to learn at Peet’s knee. Once they were ready to launch their
café. And though sipping my grande skim latte and nibbling on my madeleine
Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89
Jen Stack ’03
in Starbucks can’t compare with a similar snack on the Left Bank in Paris, I can still open my paper, lean back in an upholstered chair, and take my time. And, if I’m still there at noon, I might get a sandwich to go. So grab your favorite beverage and café treat, take a seat, and enjoy this latest edition of mise en place. Nancy Cocola, Editor
Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students. Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved. Original Art: Anders Benson ’10 Photography: Laura Brantley, Shirley Cheng, Keith Ferris, Mike Gutowski, Anne Rettig
CIA + AOL = Kitchen Daily
easy-to-access resources and recipes
division, will now expand to include the
With AOL’s Kitchen Daily being the third
to the professional chef. Healthy Baking
company’s Higher Education division.
with Almonds explores the bakeshop
“Aramark’s partnership with the CIA is
opportunities of one of America’s most
part of an ongoing commitment to provide
popular nuts. Video demos illustrate how
our culinary leaders with the training and
to use California almonds in every format—
tools needed to excel in their careers, and
from almond oil to almond flour to almond
deliver outstanding outcomes for our clients
milk—enhancing the nutritional profile of
and customers,” explained Chris Hackem,
pastries, breads, and desserts.
president, Aramark Higher Education.
most frequented food site on the Internet, and the CIA bursting at the seams with food-related content, a marriage between the two was almost inevitable. Since separating from Time Warner, AOL has been aggressively marketing itself as a digital content provider. In fact, it has more than 80 original content sites, including Moviefone and Mapquest. AOL’s Kitchen Daily was the perfect platform for the CIA to continue to grow its awareness among both prospective students and consumers in general. Right now, the CIA has more than 63 instructional videos featuring our faculty available on Kitchen Daily, with more to come. Check it out and see what some of your old profs are up to at www.kitchendaily.com/category/
Aramark Makes Its Mark Aramark is expanding its partnership with the CIA, reaffirming its commitment to honing the company’s culinary talent through the college’s prestigious ProChef®
Together, Aramark and the CIA have created a customized, hands-on course that provides chefs with a real-world experience focusing on menu diversity and innovation unique to large-quantity production.
Certification program. The relationship
The View from the Top
between the two organizations, which
Download the brand-new podcast of CIA
began back in 2008 with chefs from
President Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 as he talks
Aramark’s Sports & Entertainment
about the process of becoming a Certified Master Chef, the value of a formal culinary
education, and the qualities that set the CIA
ciachef.edu/podcasts where you’ll also
A virtual journey to learn all about the cheese of France or to get the inside scoop on almonds is just a click away at
apart from other culinary colleges. Visit find conversations with such culinary luminaries as Charlie Palmer ’79, Grant Achatz ’94, and Dan Coudreaut ’95.
ciaprochef.com. Cheeses of France offers a comprehensive program providing up-to-date,
mise en place no.53, September 2010
Keys to Café Success Essentials for creating a great café By Francisco J. Migoya, with Nancy Cocola
In my years in the industry I have seen, lived, and been part of
To operate a thriving café, one must be a master of many trades
much of the recent evolution of food in the United States. I am not
and have a profound understanding of quality, refinement, and
referring to trends, which seem to come and go at an increasingly
business. Customers have become more sophisticated, and in
fast rate, but to the growing appreciation that consumers have
order to meet their needs, there has been a mini-career explosion
developed for good, accessible, moderately inexpensive food. I
in the past decade—producing better-trained bakers, pastry chefs,
have also realized that even though consumers have very high
and chefs. There is a lot of talent out there. It keeps getting harder
expectations, they would like their food promptly expedited
and harder to be financially successful and distinguish yourself
so they can get on with their lives. Enter the modern café.
from the competition. The keys to a café’s financial success are
For the chef/entrepreneur who wishes to start his or her own
both the quality of the products and the way they are sold—from
café operation, this article will highlight some of the keys to a
display to take-away.
A café can offer a variety of items such as breakfast pastries (viennoiserie), artisan breads, pastry items (cakes and entremets), savory items, confections and chocolates, packaged shelf-stable foods, ice cream and other frozen desserts, and last but certainly not least, beverages. Not all cafés will offer all of the abovementioned items, but in order to be financially healthy, there should be at least a combination of two or three of them. And always keep in mind that, first and foremost, people enter a café for the coffee. Your investment in the proper equipment and training to make a truly great cup of coffee is well worth the expense. So let’s start at the beginning with…
mise en place no.53, September 2010
…A Great Cup o’ Joe Go ahead and resign yourself to investing a large chunk of change in your espresso machine. Try not to skimp on it or buy a secondhand one. Look for an espresso machine with a dual boiler or two separate water heaters. Remember, espresso is brewed with water that is at a lower temperature than the water that is needed to steam milk. If you have a single boiler, you will have a good espresso with a poor steamer, or vice versa. The need for two boilers is, in part, what can make the machine so expensive. Keeping this in mind, the machine should have two separate
Chocolate XS Cake $ 6.95
Blueberry Brioche $ 2.95
Lemon Meringue Tart $
water sources and an accurate thermostat. Perform weekly tests on
But savory breakfast pastries will be some of your top-selling items.
the temperature of the water the machine is outputting and make
Sometimes as bakers or pastry chefs we lose sight of the savory world
adjustments as needed. The brew heads, or where the brewing takes
and its possibilities in the bakeshop. Not every one of your customers
place in the machine, need to be made of a heavy-gauge stainless
has a sweet tooth. A lot of people would much rather have scrambled
steel. This ensures that the water temperature can be held consis-
eggs for breakfast. The problem is that not everyone has the time to
tently with minor fluctuations, and it will also result in a longer life
sit down and wait for those eggs to be made. But they can order a
for the machine.
savory scone and a glass of orange juice and be on their way. In every bakeshop I have worked, at least 10 to 15 percent of the products
Try to anticipate the volume you will be making daily. If your machine is too tiny, you won’t be able to keep up with orders. If you have a huge machine with few customers, you’ve spent your money
sold have been savory, and they consistently rank among the top-ten sellers.
unwisely. Finally, make sure the manufacturer offers training for
It is a good idea to invest in a commercial toaster with a conveyor belt-
your staff and a preventive maintenance program. Maintaining your
like system, since many people enjoy their pastries toasted—not only
machine is worth every penny. If you care for your machine and use it
savory items but sweet ones as well. One of the best things to eat, at
properly, you will have a line going out the door of people wanting a
least in my opinion, is a warm croissant with butter and jam, or a hot
cup of your espresso.
biscuit with some butter and marmalade. Always keep in mind that
Of course there are many other brewing methods, from automatic drip brewers and cone filter drip to vacuum pot brewers and, my personal favorite, the French press. The chart below will help you gauge some
whatever you put into the savory pastries must be shelf-stable.
critical factors in making a perfect cup of coffee depending on the
process you use.
If you have decided to have a savory lunch/ dinner service, you must recognize one
Something to Go with Your Coffee
important thing. Café food should not be
Breakfast pastries like the croissant, baguette, pain au chocolat, donut,
confused with cafeteria or diner food, which
sweet muffin, and brioche hold a very important place in the café.
*The grind time depends on the type of grinder, but this is a good range for most commercial burr grinders.
Type of grind
Type of brew
Red Velvet Cupcake $ 3.95
French Macarons $ 6.95
Croissant $ 2.95
has its place. The food served in a café falls somewhere between a
different kinds of display cases. There are front loading, rear loading,
restaurant and a bistro, with an emphasis on speed and convenience. It
and top loading. The front-loading case is the easiest to stock and
is high-quality food delivered in an expeditious way that can be eaten
access. Always make sure that the case is clean. A good habit to
in-house or taken to go. Preparation should be à la minute, unlike the
develop is taking the items out of the case once the café is closed
bakeshop, which features ready-to-serve items.
and performing a deep cleaning of the inside and outside. Nothing
Purists will argue that there is nothing like cooking 100% to order. However, there are certain foods that, once cooked, can be held in
turns people off more than a smudged, crumb-filled case. It is truly a reflection of the café.
adequate conditions for a few hours. Consider the Combi ovens (hot
Try to put items in the same place every day. It is important for
air and steam cook ovens), Alto-Shaams (radiant heat and hold ovens),
your returning customers to know where to look in the case for their
and the CVap (steam and hold oven) as possible equipment worth
favorites. Try to keep the chocolate items in the furthest bottom
investing in. They each allow for a variety of items to be prepared
corner. Chocolate desserts will usually be your best seller. If someone
ahead of time, cooked properly, and held for extended periods of time,
wants chocolate they’ll find it, no matter where you place it! And you
within reason. Start small when adding new items to the menu so you
want to ensure a good sales mix that takes some pressure and weight
can test them out on your customers and get their feedback.
off of the chocolate items.
Being On Display
Another important consideration is to try to have as many different
Your customer has walked through the door. In addition to the
example, don’t have two square brown desserts next to each other,
aroma of fresh breads, pastries, and freshly brewed coffee he or she is
even if they are different flavors. Try to keep the colors in balance.
immediately aware if your operation has an ease of setup and visual
When you place items in the case, always make sure that the signs
appeal. What impression does a person get when coming in? Are the bakery goods appealing and easy to see and access? Have you set the flow so people can effortlessly figure out what to
shapes and colors as possible in the display case—mix them up. For
are clear. They should say exactly what is in the dessert, its price, and, in the case of cakes, how many people it serves. Make sure that the desserts are symmetrical, straight, and perfectly lined up. The
do if they wish to grab and go or stay for a while? Never
customers will take notice of this because it favorably reflects care,
underestimate the power of ambience.
precision, cleanliness, and finesse.
The All-Important Case
Wrapping It Up
People will fall in love first with what they see, and then with how it tastes. If it is visually appealing, symmetrical, and clean, it makes people happy. Of course, taste and texture are the
Don’t forget that one of the reasons for going to a café is that it provides convenience. Many customers want their food packaged quickly so they can get going. This sounds much simpler than it is.
ultimate determining factors, but how do you get someone to taste
Packaging is one of those seemingly minor components of your café,
what you make in the first place? In a café the menu is completely
but it isn’t; it’s critical. Think of it as advertising. The actual package
on display and people will order what they see. That is why a lot of
can convey a lot of information about your establishment—like your
thought needs to be put into how the display case is presented.
logo and your colors. Don’t forget that even though your packaging
The case should always be functional and capable of a quick temperature recuperation time, since the door will be opened and
needs to be visually appealing, the ultimate function of packaging is that it must get the product safely from point A to point B.
closed many times during hours of operation. There are many
mise en place no.53, September 2010
Transporting the Goods
cake. All of these things, if executed well, will help boost profits by
One of the links in the chain between the café and the consumer is
great food, specialty cakes, and small gifts.
the transportation of the product to wherever the customer is taking it. That is why whenever a new item is introduced, you need to think about packaging as part of the puzzle. How will it be packaged so
Salting Away Profits
that it makes it safely to someone’s home? If it cannot be packaged at
Always remember the power of the impulse buy. A retail shelf offers
all (either because it is too tall or it contains a liquid, for example), be
flexibility and diversity like nothing else. And a quick and cost-
honest with your customers and suggest a different item.
effective way to drive up sales is to offer salts, spices, and various
Package sizes should be considered carefully. A cake box, for example, should be about .5 cm/.2 in. bigger than the cake board, and it should be front loading, not top loading. It is nearly impossible to take the cake out without damaging it if it is in a top-loading box.
condiments on your retail shelf. Chances are, you won’t be harvesting your own cinnamon from Vietnam or sea salt from the marshes of the Blackwater River in England, but you can source them from a high-quality spice monger. Though high-quality spices are not cheap, they are worth the cost. Most of these items can be purchased in bulk,
For petits plaisirs and other individual desserts, box each one
which brings the price down. And there is very little labor involved
individually in same-size boxes, and then put them in a larger box to
in selling spices and salts. All that has to be done is to put the spice,
keep them in place. It is good to have an all-purpose box for small
salt, or condiment in a package and label it. Stylish, airtight jars with
desserts, medium desserts, and cakes, and some others of varying
attractive labels that reflect your brand are a great way of making the
sizes. Try to stick to a general dessert dimension so that there is always
items a must-have for your customer. As long as you store your spices,
a box available. It is a good idea to anchor down the dessert if it is
salts, and other condiments properly—in a cool, dry place in airtight
assembled on a cake board, a small board, or a flat base of any sort.
containers—they will have a long shelf life. In some states, for legal
Use a sticker with the establishment’s logo on it. This will keep it from
purposes, you have to mention somewhere on the label the item’s place
moving around in the box.
The quality of the containers is important. Food will usually come in
One idea for the retail shelf is to sell themed, assorted boxes. For
direct contact with the packaging. If it is cardboard- or paper-based,
example, put together a box with four different varieties of pepper, or
it needs to a have a coating that will make it somewhat resistant to
six different kinds of salt. To encourage a sale, you can charge a little
moisture. If the package starts to show grease spots or wet spots, not
bit less than it would cost to purchase all of the items individually.
only is it unsightly, it also means that the package might be weakened
Situate your retail shelf so people waiting in line will have ample
and could break. There’s always the option of using plastic containers.
time to see what you have and go for that lightning-fast impulse buy.
I recommend using recyclable or biodegradable products.
Another way to add value for your customer is to have an attractively
Now that you have all the packaging determined for your items, be sure you have enough room to store all of it. Ideally the containers will be stackable or store flat, ready for assembly when needed. Of course, if you have a particular item on your menu and no box in stock to
printed flyer or brochure on the retail shelf that offers information explaining the nature and quality of the items as well as recipes for using them at home.
accommodate it, plan ahead and purchase the correct size boxes for
Everybody’s Working for the Weekend
when the dessert or cake comes out on the menu. Oh, and one more
Maybe your greatest challenge is converting your weekday regular
thing—whatever the cost of your packaging, make sure it is included in
into a Saturday shopper. During the week, individual and small
the price of the bakery item.
pastries or breads will be the most requested items. But from Thursday
Upscale Upsell Diversifying a café’s offerings is a smart way to increase sales. Your average consumers are more food-savvy and sophisticated now than
ensuring that your customers view your café as their destination for
to Sunday, many people partake in social gatherings with friends and family. This means that they will need something big enough to serve a larger group of people. Weekend products can be extremely profitable as they are often your regular products, just larger.
they were 10 years ago. These customers also know people who share
It’s always wise to remind your daily customers, when they pop in
similar interests. That makes food-related items just the right gift for
on Friday morning, of any items you have available for a weekend
almost any occasion, so you should offer a variety of high-quality,
gathering like a large miche to share, a dozen breakfast pastries for the
shelf-stable products on a retail shelf. Think also of converting your
next morning, a cake for a celebration, a box of chocolates, or a pound
Monday–Friday coffee and croissant customer into a weekend regular.
of coffee as a hostess gift. Your job is to make sure you always have
And always remember the power of the emotional special occasion
these types of products available at the right time of the week.
Occasion-al Benefits Not everybody thinks about ordering a cake weeks in advance for a special occasion. That’s why it is always good to have cakes on tap. You can become known as the café that bails out a customer in need. Typically we will tell patrons that we need at least 48 hours advance notice to make their cake. And while some cakes do take that long to prepare from beginning to end, the mise en place needed to be able to produce a special-occasion cake or two can be kept on hand for those last-minute emergencies. After a few weeks, the cakes might begin to sell every day, especially when regular customers realize they can come to the café for their lastminute needs. It is important not to take advantage of your customer’s dire situation by jacking up the price of these last-minute items. Instead, be generous and charge what you normally would. Your customers will appreciate it and the gesture will build their loyalty. Some items are seasonal, such as the Bûche de Noël cake for Christmas. In these cases, do try to insist on advance ordering, but always have enough to offer to those people who rush in at the last minute. No matter how many you make, you will typically sell them all, especially around closing time.
It’s in the Details It’s always important to remember that, for better or worse, the tiniest little detail will have an impact on your business. Those businesses that are struggling are often caught in a downward spiral caused by an array of small, bad decisions. Conversely, one big event is rarely what determines a business’ success. It’s the day-to-day decisions that can make or break an operation. That is why thoughtful planning, perfect execution, creative thinking, and constant re-assessment are keys to your café’s success. Chef Francisco J. Migoya is an assistant professor in baking and pastry arts at the CIA. In addition to The Modern Café (2010), he has authored Frozen Desserts (2008). This article was excerpted and adapted from The Modern Café by Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America.
mise en place no.53, September 2010
10 Years of Apple Pie Celebrating the APBC’s anniversary Sweet, satisfying, and successful are words
The operation was a success. Everyone loved the opportunity
that can easily be ascribed to the Apple Pie
to get world-class food quickly and with minimal fuss. And the
Bakery Café’s (APBC) first decade. What
surroundings were so welcoming that people lingered over their
began as an ambitious dream has turned into a thriving educational and fiscal venture at the CIA. Over the years, Café patrons have poured through the doors in search of fast, casual, high-quality food in an inviting setting—and they certainly found what they were looking for. Ten years ago, the impetus to create the APBC was threefold—the growing enrollment in the CIA’s baking and pastry program, an industry segment poised on the verge of exploding, and the fact that our baking and pastry curriculum was moving from a certificate to a degree program. The eventual success of the APBC was a result of meticulous planning, creativity, and a very generous seed gift from the Rich Products Corporation. Everything from the name of the Café to the look and feel of it was open for discussion, research, and testing. The name was decided with the aid of a campus-wide contest that solicited suggestions from faculty, staff, and students. The original menu was developed through tastings by baking and pastry faculty and culinary instructors. Former CIA president Ferdinand Metz worked closely with architects from Dinella and Schaeffer to maximize the use of the space. Our facilities appearance and management team of Mike Critchley, Bob Tracey, and George Smith chose the floor tile color and design, and Lyde Buchtenkirch-Biscardi ’72 created all the wrought iron decorative work on the walls and table holders. Becky Oetjen, facilities project manager, worked with Evergreen Painting Studio, Inc. to create the lovely mural in the back of the dining area. And, the display window was designed to open to the hallway so the aromas from the kitchen would entice patrons into the Café.
coffee or tea. Five years ago, Tom Vaccaro ’85 current senior director for baking and pastry education, was given the oversight reins for the Café. “I inherited a very successful operation,” Tom explained, “and was mandated to ensure its continued growth and prosperity.” For Tom, bringing success to an operation hinges on having the right people for the right job and identifying the tools they need in order to succeed.
In 2005, Assistant Professor in Baking and Pastry Arts Francisco Migoya and Assistant Professor in Café Operations Denise (Hall) Mazzei ’96 took over the back- and front-of-the house, respectively. Their enormous creativity and drive, along with the implementation of a management brigade system and staffing structure, were the spurs needed to capitalize on the Café’s previous success and take it to the next level.
As the popularity of the APBC grew, one of the happy problems
facing the team was controlling the flow of patrons through the
Café experience. The small, round retail tables situated at the front
Café team wanted to be
of the café left people confused about where to go first—the counter
sure that once an order was
or a table. Tom and the staff tapped their collective experience
placed, it was served within 12
and research to determine what was needed to control flow. What resulted was a gorgeous wrought iron and wood retail structure that naturally directs the flow of patrons to the front of the Café to order, gives them something to look at while they are waiting, and increases overall sales.
minutes. To that end they instituted a Kwik Deliver System (KDS) that tracks an order to the appropriate station—be that savory kitchen, pastry counter, or beverage service—and alerts staff, through a system of yellow and red flashing lights, where they stand on reaching that goal. This system enables the APBC Managers-in-Training to see problems as they arise and help expedite. The use of this system continues to be a work-in-progress for all APBC staff. To ensure that the Café continues to provide excellent service, product, and profit, the team there decides on three initiatives a year they feel will improve the Café and keep it fresh. In recent years, projects have included creating a specialty cake catalog, building new wine cabinets, the establishment of a wine steward position, baking artisan breads right in the Café’s kitchen, and the advent of exciting and flavorful ice creams. Use of the window display in more creative and eye-catching ways has also been one of the recent initiatives. Each of these new ideas goes from ideation to development of product or process, from assessment of equipment needs to a pilot program for test and review. The retail section of the APBC is now focused on a single location— the long wrought iron and wood piece as you walk in. Another recent and attractive initiative was to choose boxes that would highlight the quality of the retail products being sold. After a search, the team chose new boxes that are sleek and sophisticated, and entice one to open them! When you enter the APBC you find yourself in the perfect gathering place to linger over your coffee, nibble your perfectly crafted chocolate croissant, or dig into a savory meal presented with whimsy, flair, and exquisite flavors. Next time you’re back on campus, be sure and make time to enjoy the pleasures of the Café.
Under the Toque By Brigid Ransome, Illustration by Anders Benson ’10 Do you remember your wild-eyed wonder, thinking of CIA instructors as larger-than-life beings—skilled chefs and walking culinary encyclopedias with the power to make your life happy or miserable?
Joe DiPerri ’78
Associate Professor in Culinary Arts
Q What is the craziest thing you did when you were a CIA student? A Oh, that’s the Eyeball Story. I stole a fish eye from the fish room
and went screaming into the nurse that I got my eyeball knocked out. After giving this sweet, gentle, grandmotherly woman a heart attack, I quickly took my hand away from my eye and showed her I was joking. She calmed down quickly and then slapped me across my arm saying, “Never do that again!”
Q What book is the last book you read?
A This Wheel’s on Fire: Levon Helm and the Story of The Band by Levon Helm.
Q What was your most memorable CIA moment?
But in reality, under those perfect toques are some witty and wry
A The day I passed my cooking exam to become a member of
personalities that you may not have expected. I sat down with a
handful of our resident instructors to get a peek at who they are
Rob Mullooly ’93
beyond the kitchen and classroom. Turns out, they are just regular people, who are still just as enamored of the CIA as you were when you walked the halls.
Jerry Fischetti ’78
Associate Professor in Business Management
Q What would you eat for your last meal?
A Since I only eat vegetables and fish now, I’d treat myself to a Fred Flintstone-sized rib-eye steak, char-grilled rare with a huge pile of French fries—the ultimate final nail in the coffin.
Q What is the one spice you can’t live without? A Saffron, for its unmatched visual beauty.
Q What is your most memorable CIA moment? A Being the speaker at graduation for my class.
Assistant Professor in Culinary Arts
Q What would you eat for your last meal?
A Bacon cheeseburger with disco fries and a tall chocolate shake.
Q What is the craziest thing you did while you were a CIA student? A A bunch of us would go swim in the Hudson River. I honestly don’t know if I would do that again!
Q What is your most memorable CIA moment?
A Having my second and fifth term practical exams judged by President Metz—an honor.
Bruce Mattel ’80
Associate Professor in Culinary Arts
Q What would you eat for your last meal? A Peking duck.
Q What is the last book you read?
A Pecos Bill with my eight-year-old son. For myself, I just started In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan.
Q What is the one spice you can’t live without? A Pimenton.
Douglass Miller ’89
Lecturing Instructor in Hospitality and Service Management
Q What was your most memorable CIA moment? A Winning Faculty Member of the Year in 2005.
Q What would you eat for your last meal?
A Besides my grandmother’s macaroni and cheese, potato salad, and sweet potato pie, I would have to say a cheese steak,
Brendan Walsh ’80
Lecturing Instructor in Culinary Arts
Q What would you eat for your last meal?
A Well, on the way to heaven I would want a few laughs so… maybe a meal from day one in K-16!
Q What is the last book you read?
A I just started The Big Short: Inside the Doomsday Machine—because is sounded light and uplifting!
Q What is the one spice you can’t live without?
cheese French fries, and birch soda from Ishkabibble’s Eatery on South Street in Philadelphia.
Q What is the last book you read?
A Domesticating Drink: Women, Men and Alcohol in America 1870–1940 by Catherine Gilbert Murdock.
Q What is the craziest thing you did as a CIA student?
A Snowboarded into Lake Velouté.
A Chilis of course.
Gregory Zifchak ’80
Cynthia Keller ’83
Q What would you eat for your last meal?
Associate Professor in Culinary Arts
Lecturing Instructor in Culinary Arts
Q What would you eat for your last meal?
A I’d start with Champagne and Fisher’s Island oysters, roast woodcock with sautéed foraged parasol or late fall oyster
A Lobster ragoût with asparagus, fresh pasta, and morel mushroom cream sauce.
Q What is the craziest thing you did when you were a CIA student?
mushrooms, Michel’s bread, and a glass of vintage Bordeaux—no
A I clipped tulips from the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Mansion
point in saving it if it’s my last meal ever. A simple apple tart for
property for a special dinner my class prepared. I was a foolish
dessert with a good washed-rind cheese would top it off.
18-year-old with no money!
Q What was your most memorable CIA moment?
Q What is the last book you read?
A The opening ceremony of the American Bounty Restaurant, with Craig Claiborne, Paul Prudhomme, and James Beard on the
A On the Run: An Angler’s Journey Down the Striper Coast by David DiBenedetto. It follows striped bass as they make their annual fall
dais. I was a first-year student and it was really moving to know
migration south from Maine to the Outer Banks where they spend
that American chefs were about to come into their own. It was a
really big deal. Brigid Ransome anticipates getting her A.O.S. degree in September 2011. As part of the CIA/SHA collaborative degree program, Anders Benson ’10 is currently at the Cornell School of Hotel Administration seeking his B.A. degree.
ChinaRoad When 26 bachelor’s degree students took off from Newark Airport heading to Beijing, China on April 18, 2010, they had no idea what awaited them. Theirs was the first B.P.S. Food, Wine, and Agri(culture) trip to make its way to the Asian continent. There could have been
A 13-hour flight to Beijing and then a three-hour flight to Chengdu ended with check-in at the lovely Wen Jun Mansion Hotel. DAY 3: The Chinese supermarket Ren Ren was an eye opener. And dim sum lunch at the Long Chaoshou Restaurant meant dramatics from a tea master who really knew how to pour!
no better leader to guide the students than Professor in Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng. She deftly led students through a 21-day adventure tasting, experiencing, and breathing in the Chinese cultural traditions and culinary pleasures. Here’s a small taste of what they experienced.
Chef Cheng’s former student, Chef Chen Ju Min, demonstrated how to make chrysanthemum fish flowers, spicy pork, dumplings, and bao tze at the Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine. After lunch, students practiced creating these dishes. In the evening they saw Chinese opera performed on the street.
A hands-on day at the Jiazhu Tea Farm had students wearing traditional hats and baskets while picking their own tea. A tea master evaluated their harvest and showed them how tea was cured by hand in bronze bowls heated to 350º–400ºF. As they left the farm, students received tea bags made from the tea they had picked. day 4: jiazhu tea farm
day 11: bamboo sea national forest “raft race”
A visit to the Bamboo Sea National Forest included a gondola ride to the top of the mountain, a lunch of various bamboo shoot dishes, a hike through the woods, a bamboo raft trip to cross a river, and then a trek through the bamboo sea where terraced temples grow out of cliffs. Amazing!
Students visited the enormous Wu Liang Ye Rice Liquor Factory, which produces the largest volume of rice liquor in China. A trip to the Yibin Fermented vegetable factory, which produces this staple ingredient in Chinese cuisine, was an olfactory challenge for our students.
DAY 12: Two salt museums were on tap, where students learned about salt wells and explored modern and ancient salt production methods.
In Ping’Li old town, a woman buying fish shocked students by taking it right out of the barrel and beating it senseless on a rock. A tea tasting at the Wang Jia Courtyard Museum set students up for a day of shopping, shopping, and more shopping at the kitchen wholesale market.
day 11: bamboo sea national forest
Day 6: pujiang Rice Liquor Factory
A visit to the Pujiang Rice Liquor Factory revealed bare-chested, bare-footed men carrying out the fermentation process in relatively primitive conditions. At the Pixian Hot Bean Paste Factory, students saw outdoor fermentation tanks that produce 4,000 kilotons of paste a year.
The somewhat automated Quan Xin Rice Liquor factory still bottles its rice liquor by hand. A visit to the Sichuan Culinary Museum took students on a tour of China’s culinary history. Lunch was served at the teahouse and gardens in the museum.
Students learned about traditional Chinese medicine and then ate a dietarily balanced meal at Quin Shan Zai Restaurant. Students walked Jin Li Street, a major business center since 200 BC. DAY 9: At the Chengdu Panda Research Center, students paid from $75–$150 to have their pictures taken with the docile pandas. Fees are used to support the Center and care for the remarkable mammals. “Best day ever,” said some of the students. Day 9: chengdu panda research center
The group spent Day 15 traveling to Xian. DAY 16: The Terracotta Warrior Museum impressed the students with both the size and popularity of the venue. Soldiers had been buried in formation with archers, horses, and chariots.
The 8½-mile-long Xian City wall, built in the Tang Dynasty, is still completely intact and comes with a moat. Some intrepid students rented bicycles to ride around the wall. Left for Beijing. DAY 18: An emotional visit to Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and the Imperial Palace Museum left students feeling they were standing in the presence of history.
Day 16: terracotta warrior museum
A visit to the 2008 Olympic Bird Nest Stadium was the start of a day that found the students struggling up the steep Great Wall of China, where making it to the 8th tower—the White Cloud Tower—was a major achievement.
At the Dragon Seal Wine Museum, students tasted wines and then lunched on Beijing-style roast duck at the Quanjiude Roast Duck Restaurant.
At a farewell meal at the Dynasty Winery—a Sino-French, joint-venture winery—dancers entertained the students and got them up to dance! DAY 22: Homeward bound with mixed emotions and memories that will last a lifetime! day 19: climbing the great wall
Following the Presidential Trail
The job of a college president means wearing many different hats.
This past spring, Tim joined fellow educators at Temasek
In recent months, President Tim Ryan has served as a speaker, an
Polytechnic and the Singapore Institute of Technology to review
honoree, and a sage. He’s stood before student groups, professional
our current program there and to discuss the possible expansion of
groups, and groups of his peers. And, he’s done all this while
our partnership with them.
traveling from coast to coast and abroad.
New Haven, CT As part of the 2010 Alvine Engineering Professional Effectiveness and Enrichment Program, the University of New Haven (UNH) invited Tim to participate in its distinguished lecture series and give a presentation on “The Future of Food.” The visit to New Haven was a nostalgic one for Tim. Not only is UNH Tim’s alma mater (he received his B.S. in hotel & restaurant administration in 1993 and his M.B.A. in 1996), but New Haven is also the birthplace of the CIA. Tim drove by our original campus and found that Yale has beautifully restored the building, once called Angell Hall.
New York, NY At the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards gala at Lincoln Center in New York City, Tim was inducted into the Who’s Who in Food & Beverage in America. When asked why this particular award is different from the other James Beard Awards, President Ryan explained, “Many James Beard Awards are given for a specific project—a book, a restaurant, or television show. The Who’s Who is given in recognition of an individual’s career. Because I have spent the majority of my career—28 years now—at the CIA, I believe that this James Beard award is a tribute to the entire CIA community and our collective accomplishments over the years, more than it is about me. I am proud to represent the college and proud of what we’ve accomplished.” During another visit to the Big Apple, Tim and Mark Erickson ’77 met with key members of the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation— Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse ’92—to review the success of the most recent Bocuse d’Or USA competition on the Hyde Park campus, and to iron out the organizational details for the January 2011 International competition in Lyon, France. Mark Erickson is slated to coach the U.S. team!
tim presenting at UNH
St. Helena, CA A couple of months ago, Tim traveled to the west coast where he participated in the National Restaurant Association’s Educational Foundation Leadership Classic. From there he headed to our Greystone campus to spend time chatting and answering students’ questions at a reception. While at Greystone, he delivered the annual State of the Institute presentation for all of the faculty and staff there, and presented anniversary awards. Greystone celebrates its fifteenth anniversary this summer and there are a number of employees who have been with the college since the beginning. Making the most of his trip west, Tim also met with alumni to discuss ways to further the CIA’s mission.
james beard foundation who’s who inductees— (left to right) david rockwell, susan spicer, leah chase, jessica b. harris, and tim
It’s Chowda-Time Seashells, sand, fishing nets, and oyster crackers were in
Adding to the day’s excitement were rapid-fire oyster shucking
abundance. Add to that, large pots of piping-hot clam chowder,
and oyster eating competitions that had the crowd cheering and
oyster shucking and oyster eating competitions, a room full of
urging on their favorite contestant. In the end, Cap’N Case ’n the
hungry spectators, and a panel of discerning judges. Voilà, you
Beej’s Crawfish and Andouille Chowder with Jalapeño Cornbread
have the CIA’s Ninth Annual Chowder Cook-off held on April 11,
Crumble bubbled to the top of everyone’s scorecard. They came
2010. To complete the seaside carnival theme, a caricaturist was
away with both the Judges’ award and the People’s Choice award.
present to entertain spectators while they waited for the judging,
In second and third place in the Judges’ Competition were The
a DJ played “beach music,” games were played, and draft beer
Corny Crabbers and The “A” Team, respectively.
What made it possible for Cap’N Case ’n the Beej to take home
With the CIA’s Student Recreation Center transformed and
two top awards, including a check for $800 in prize money and a
ready, nine teams ceremoniously brought in their “winning”
$100 gift certificate to Oceana? Bryan Casey, B.J. Lieberman, and
pots of chowder for judging. Throngs of spectators anxiously
Phil Picard may have said it best when they explained, “We were
awaited their chance to taste and judge which chowder they would
very careful to respect of each of our 31 chowder ingredients. We
select to win the People’s Choice award. A panel of judges that
layered the flavors and worked at making sure there was a balance
included CIA instructors Corky Clark ’71, John DeShetler ’68,
so heat didn’t overwhelm flavor.”
Hubert Martini, Darryl Mosher, and John Reilly ’88, as well as CIA ombudsman Wayne Almquist, retired CIA instructor Jim Heywood ’67, and former instructor Craig Goldstein took their jobs seriously as they started to scrutinize each entry. To win the Judges’ Competition, teams were scored on two different criteria. First, each team presented a fully garnished, restaurant-quality bowl of chowder to be judged for aesthetic appeal. Next, they presented a tasting bowl that was judged for flavor and use of ingredients. Once the anxiety of presenting their
Also receiving accolades that day was “master shucker” Glen Kobayashi, who made his way through several rounds of oysters before winning the top prize in the oyster shucking competition. Second place went to Alex Geller, with Hyeon Ju Lim finishing in third place. Joe DiPerri ’77 judged this contest. David Berquist single-handedly ate 12 of Glen Kobayashi’s spicy oysters in the finals of the oyster easting competition. Kevin McCann finishing second and Leonardo Reed took third.
chowder to the discriminating judges was over, contestants offered
Everyone agreed that the competition provided plenty of crowd-
CIA students, staff, and friends samples in the hopes that their
chowder would be the Peoples’ Choice.
the shucking competition drew cheers from the crowd
mise en place no.53, September 2010
(left to right) winners B.J. lieberman, bryan casey, and phil picard
A Tradition of Sustainability:
St. Andrew’s Café
The land on which The Culinary
ribs. If the team wants to put ribs on
Institute of America now stands
the menu, they have to stockpile them
in Hyde Park, NY has a long
in the freezer to make sure they have
history of sustaining those who
enough to offer as a menu item.
live and work upon it. Back in 1903, when the Jesuit novitiate St. Andrew-on-Hudson was built on this site, many of the 85 acres were dedicated to agriculture— meeting the daily needs of the members of the order.
culinary skills, they are learning the art of preserving the harvest. Under the guidance of their chef-instructor, students have been testing recipes for the St. Andrew’s Preservation Guide. This testing includes measuring pH
The novitiates were fairly
levels in various fruit and vegetable
cloistered and therefore had
combinations and developing a system
to be self-sustaining. They
of methods and procedures on how to
maintained a herd of 45 dairy
efficiently pack preserved goods into
cows, a piggery, and a chicken
jars. The recipes have been developed
farm on the north end of the
for those items abundant in the
property. Acreage was planted
Hudson Valley’s fall harvest. So far,
with corn, apples, and potatoes.
students have created spicy corn relish;
There was even a vineyard to
smoked tomato chutney; pickled beets,
the east of Albany Post Road.
cauliflower, and squash in a variety
The Jesuits had to build a
of spice blends and brines; and apple
stone lookout tower to ward off
butter and pear compote recipes. All of
hooligans who wished to pilfer
these are preserved to bring brightness
the grapes! For the most part,
and flavor to the gray days of winter.
they practiced many of the same principles of sustainable agriculture currently gaining worldwide acceptance.
Beyond the truly priceless hands-on experience, students live the farm-tofork philosophy, read Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food, and familiarize themselves with such food policy
Today, the eponymous restaurant on campus—St. Andrew’s Café—has
issues as the USDA Farm Bill. In addition, they will learn about the
been re-dedicated to the philosophy and practices started so many
real challenges facing local food economies.
years ago. These principles of using local, sustainable food sources coupled with the art and science of food preservation are now embedded in the curriculum and reflect the CIA’s commitment to our students and our planet.
A commitment to sustainability means going green in every way. In December 2009, the Green Restaurant Association awarded St. Andrew’s Café a two-star certification. To earn the certification, the restaurant had to become environmentally conscious in all areas of
In that spirit, students at St. Andrew’s Café now learn using a 32-
operation, including food sourcing and purchasing, energy usage,
page sustainable-cooking course guide and curriculum. Students are
waste disposal, and water usage.
breaking down and using the whole animal—what is popularly called “snout to tail”—requiring not only new cooking skills and methods but also perfect planning. They no longer just order what they want from the CIA’s storeroom, so planning menu items takes on new meaning. For example, a whole pig only comes with two racks of
Students are not only learning new
Green Restaurant Association founder and executive director Michael Oshman says, “The CIA is the nation’s preeminent culinary institution. The fact that they’re integrating this into their education process will have great impact.”
13 t h A N N U A L WO R L D S O F F L AVO R I N T E R N AT I O N A L CO N F E R E N C E & F E S T I VA L T h e C u l i n a r y I n s t i t u t e o f A m e r i c a a t G r e y s t o n e | N a p a Va l l e y, C A
JAPAN: FLAVORS OF CULTURE
From Sushi and Soba to Kaiseki: A Global Celebration of Tradition, Art, and Exchange
NOVEMBER 4–6, 2010
The largest and most significant professional conference ever held in the U.S. dedicated to the flavors, culinary techniques, and food cultures of Japan. More than 50 top chefs and exper ts from Japan—including an unprecedented delegation of Michelin-starred chefs—will be featured.
Immerse yourself in one of the world’s greatest culinary traditions, from the Japanese heritage of preserved foods, including miso and soy sauce , to the sizzling Tokyo restaurant scene; the craft of Japanese soba and ramen noodles; a deep dive into umami, dashi, and other flavor strategies; an insider’s taste of the legendary dining of Kyoto; sushi, sashimi, and the Japanese fish kitchen; the culture of green tea; techniques from aromatic shiso tempura to Japanese live fire; and much more. With the rise of Asian flavors in American foodservice, you can’t afford to miss this conference. Please join us!
REGISTER TODAY! | 1-888-799-1810 | www.worldsofflavor.com ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America
Book Shelf Produce
The SoNo Baking Company Cookbook
By Brad Matthews ’74 and Paul Wigsten If you’re seeking a
By John Barricelli ’80
comprehensive guide to produce, then this
Out of the ovens at SoNo
publication is for
Baking Company &
you. Part of CIA’s
Café in South Norwalk,
new Kitchen Pro
CT come fabulous and
foolproof recipes for
preparation skills, this
home cooks alike. A third generation baker, John Barricelli brings together his experiences at River Café, Le Bernardin, the Four Seasons Restaurant, and his first bakery, Cousin John’s Café and Bakery, to share 150 of his time-tested recipes. From artisanal breads, specialty cakes, delicate pastries, trifles, and pies to cobblers, breakfast cakes, and cookies, your mouth will water
user-friendly resource provides practical and detailed information on product identification, seasonality, availability, storage, maturity and ripeness, taste, and utilization tactics of produce. Within its pages you’ll find practical information on fabrication as well as basic preparation methods and recipes. The full-color photographs highlight the distinctive differences in each food type, which is essential in cuisine identification.
the moment you open this book.
Women Standing Tall: Food for the Soul
By John W. Fischer ’88 In this book, part of the CIA’s new Kitchen Pro Series, John Fischer provides
Edited by Brandi N.
readers with an
This book, edited
by CIA alumna
into the world of cheese. This
provided by the
basic history of
mothers of professional basketball
cheese, its manufacture, and its
players to help raise funds for the LIFELONG AIDS Alliance. The mother of famed, former New York Knick
incorporation into different cuisines. Each cheese
and current Boston Celtic Nate Robinson shares her steak and gravy recipe.
is carefully described and provides you with information to
Mom of Dwight Howard, “Superman” of the Orlando Magic, lets us in on the
aid identification. Also covered are flavor profile, the aging
secret of her creamed spinach. Mary Anthony, mother of Carmelo Anthony
process, and “terroir.” An entire recipe section is devoted to
of the Denver Nuggets, gives up her avocado-orange spinach salad with
cooking with cheese, while another focuses on pairing cheese
tangy tomato dressing recipe. And Sandra Willis, mother of WNBA player
with the proper beverage. The full-color photographs make
Lisa Willis, shares the recipe for her incomparable seafood gumbo. Every
the mouth-watering cheeses easy to identify and even easier to
recipe in this book is a “slam dunk!”
want to sample!
Unique Program Graduates First Class By Sue Sorenson Lee
Memorable graduation ceremonies occur frequently on the campus
about their work in a new way—from the perspective of an industry
of The Culinary Institute of America. But a new tradition began this
leader who recognizes the implications of all of his or her actions,”
past spring when the members of the inaugural class of the Culinary
said Victor Gielisse, associate vice president of business development
Enrichment and Innovation Program (CEIP) celebrated the conclusion
and co-founder of CEIP. “It’s demanding, but it provides the chefs
of their 18-month
an opportunity to
disconnect from their daily responsibilities
Created by the CIA
and reinvigorate their
in partnership with
passion for the craft.”
Hormel Foods, and sponsored by
The class of 2010
Hormel Foods, CEIP
experienced just that.
is the first advanced
“Looking back over this
program, I realize that
it has been a catalyst for
for chefs who
my ‘job’ in foodservice
will be assuming
becoming a ‘career’
in foodservice,” said
roles in the future.
This elite group
of 16 professional
first class, U.S. Navy,
first came together in October of 2008,
“I didn’t realize how
much of an educational
every six months for three days of intense
chef rudy speckamp instructs chef tim recher
of marketing for Hormel Foods and co-creator of CEIP, quoting the famous line from Field of Dreams as he spoke to the class of 2010 at
be for us—it’s very focused on learning how
study at the CIA. “Build it and they will come,” said Dennis Goettsch, vice president
experience this would
we can be better chefs, how we can be better executives, and what we can do to grow,” said Tim Recher, executive chef and director of outlets, Hilton Alexandria Hotel, Alexandria, VA.
graduation. But, as Goettsch explained, the founding partners had
Eric Cartwright, executive chef for the Campus Dining Service at the
no guarantee that aspiring chefs would experience what they had
University of Missouri, noted the strength of the formal components of
envisioned as they created the program. (See mise en place #47, p. 22)
the program as well as the learning he brought back to share with his
A blend of lectures and in-kitchen, hands-on learning, the CEIP also includes site-specific tours of organic growers, conversations
team. He also highlighted the lasting camaraderie created through the program.
on marketing theory with a local premium distiller, roundtable
In October 2010, the second CEIP class of talented and proven
discussions with industry leaders, late-night planning sessions with
chefs will gather to begin their journey of preparation for industry
CEIP team members, and role playing in case study assignments.
Sessions are led by CIA Certified Master Chefs. “Our goal with the curriculum is to challenge these chefs to think
mise en place no.53, September 2010
For more information on the program, please visit www.ceipinfo.com. Sue Sorenson Lee, Hormel Foods
“Friending”&“Fanning” Your Career By Ron Hayes ’02 Your potential employers are on it. Your
creating an album of your work for public
potential employees are on it. Most
view. Now when someone receives your
important, your customers and your
friend request or wonders who is commenting on a post, he or
potential customers are on it. Facebook is no longer just a
she can click on you and see
time thief; it is a part of our
examples of your work. Also include a link in your
daily communications. If
you are not using Facebook to push your employment
• If you have a business,
and your business, you
create a fan page. If
are missing the boat—
your employer doesn’t
because your competition
have one, ask if you can
is also on it.
create one. You’ve just helped grow their business,
Make Professional Connections
so make sure to remind them of that at your next performance review. Have
• Search out those professionals
your friends “Like” the page.
whom you admire. Connect
Encourage your guests to “Like”
with them by including a
the page. Post often. Fan page postings
personalized introduction with your friend request. • “Like” pages of professionals and businesses you admire. • Once you have aligned yourself with these professionals and businesses, stay active with them. Comment on their posts. Reference them by using @ and their name in your posts. This will result in your post appearing on their wall, keeping you on their radar, and promoting your name and ideas to all their friends and fans. Consider this as prep. Know and be known now so when you are actively seeking a new position you already have a connection on the inside. No more cold calling or wondering if your online application made it through.
Promote Yourself and Your Business
show up in other fans’ news feeds—free, real-time advertising.
A Word About Privacy Check that your privacy settings read “Friends Only.” Of course, everything you put online can be found if someone is looking hard enough, but this setting will help keep you looking professional to the casual viewer. The best practice is to always assume “they” (potential employers, employees, coworkers, mom) are looking for you. For more information on how to use Facebook, contact Ron Hayes ’02 in the Office of Career Services: 845-905-4610 or firstname.lastname@example.org, and “Like” our page at facebook.com/ CIACareerservices. Ron Hayes is a CIA career development officer.
• Facebook allows a customizable privacy setting for every photo album. Make a quick, free, online portfolio by
their recent work. My New Orleans, by John Besh ’92 was selected as Best American Cookbook, and Francis Lam ’03 won the Bert Greene Award for Food Journalism for his article “The Last Chinese BBQ ,” published in Gourmet magazine. At the 2009 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, Southeast Asian Flavors, written by Robert Danhi ’91, won the Best Asian Cuisine Book in the USA and 2nd Best Asian Cuisine Book in the World.
Students Show Their Skills For the fifth time in as many years, CIA students placed first and second in the New York
students flank honoree jefferson evans ‘47
State Post-secondary SkillsUSA Culinary Arts Competition held
Honoring Jefferson Evans ’47
in March. Alyssa Campos and
On Tuesday, April 27, Brad Barnes ’87 and seven CIA students
Yelena Del Mundo captured gold
traveled to Johnson & Wales to celebrate the achievements of Chef
and silver respectively. Alyssa
Jefferson Evans ’47, the CIA’s first black graduate and one of our
recently represented New York
former instructors. Many thanks to the following CIA students whose collaboration with their J & W counterparts resulted in a memorable
chef rob mullooly ‘93 poses with skills usa gold medal winner alyssa campos
feast honoring a wonderful man: Seung Hyun Cho, Kristopher Edelen, Yusra Hassan, Melia Kilbourn, Kenneth Lue, Kelly O’Neil, and Alex Snell. Special thanks to Brad for his dedication and work with these young culinarians.
court of sommelier masters with new master melissa monosoff
State at the SkillsUSA Nationals competition in Kansas City, MO, and won GOLD!
25 Out of 86 Before this year, the highest number of CIA graduates to earn James Beard Award nominations in a single year topped out at 18. We
achieved that number twice and thought ourselves well represented.
arrived at the Meadowood
This year, CIA alumni made up 25 of the 86 nominations. In a field
Resort in California’s
of increasingly talented chefs, writers, and wine experts our CIA
Napa Valley to attempt the
grads always shine. We took away seven awards—including President
daunting three-day Master
Tim Ryan’s prestigious Who’s Who in Food & Beverage in America.
Sommelier test that measures
Congratulations to the nominees and these seven winners!
a sommelier’s knowledge of wine theory, beverage service,
and tasting ability. This year, only two candidates passed. As one of the two, Melissa Monosoff ’00, sommelier at Savona Restaurant in Philadelphia, joined a select group of only 103 other Americans who have successfully completed the rigorous examination and are members of the Court of Master Sommeliers.
Grant Achatz ’94—Outstanding Service Award: Alinea Todd English ’82—Television Special: Food Trip with Todd English Koren Grieveson ’96—Best Chefs: Great Lakes Jeff Michaud ’98—Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic Rick Moonen ’78—Television Show: Chef’s A’ Field: King of Alaska Ron Suhanosky ’92 and Colleen Suhanosky ’94—Book: Single Subject, Pasta Sfoglia And of course,
The International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP)
President Tim Ryan ’77—
Cookbook Award is considered one of the most prestigious honors
in culinary publishing. There were more than 500 entries submitted
Inductee, Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America
for consideration in 2010. Winners were announced in late April
Best New Chef
at the organization’s annual conference in Portland, OR. The
Roy Choi ’98, co-owner of the Los Angeles sensation Kogi Korean
CIA’s publishing division won a coveted 2010 Cookbook Award
BBQ-To-Go, was named a 2010 Best New Chef by Food & Wine
(Professional Kitchens category) for Baking and Pastry: Mastering the
Art and Craft, 2nd Ed. Two CIA graduates were also recognized for
mise en place no.53, September 2010
Investing in the Middle Supporting Your Organization’s Unsung Heroes
By Tama Murphy
“Our employees are our greatest asset.” Despite the truth behind the
To motivate employees in the middle, you must understand where
sentiment, managers frequently fail to focus their attention on all of
they’re coming from and what drives them. Unsung heroes typically
their employees. In virtually every industry, it’s the top performers
fall into three categories:
and poor performers who get most of their manager’s time, often at
• Former superstars who have taken themselves off the fast track to
the expense of those in the middle. This middle group—the unsung
find balance in their lives
heroes who consistently meet the expectations established by the
• Functional experts who fill a specific niche in the organization
organization—constitutes the majority of employees. So what can
• Consistent performers who thrive in structured environments that
managers do to make sure that every member of the team gets the guidance and mentoring he or she needs and deserves?
have well-defined processes and procedures Former superstars are highly skilled employees who still produce
First, let’s look at some of the reasons why managers typically spend
exceptional results. Yet, they want to ensure a balance between their
about 80% of their time on 20% of their employees. It’s easy to
job and their outside responsibilities. These employees need to be
understand why performance that is below expectations needs to
valued for their intelligence and skills and receive assurance from
be addressed. By identifying the gap between actual and desired
management that their desire for balance is okay.
performance, managers are able to provide guidance and tools to help poor performers become solid contributors.
Functional experts fill a vital role in the organization. Because they have cultivated expertise in a specific area, they are very focused on
The organization’s fast-track “superstars” receive a great deal of
their assigned work and perform well on a daily basis. Functional
support and mentoring from their managers, who feel comfortable
experts need to be recognized for their specialized skill set and
providing positive feedback and rewarding exceptional performance.
But while the high achievers’ contributions are significant, fast trackers often change positions as they rise through the ranks or leave the organization altogether to fulfill their potential.
Consistent performers put the needs of the organization ahead of being in the limelight. They value a work culture where there is limited risk, and are often perceived as viewing their work as a “job”
Let’s talk about the remaining 80% of employees. These “average”
rather than a “career.” However, this is far from accurate. Consistent
employees provide stability, expertise, and consistency to your
performers take pride in their career choice and are motivated by
organization, so focusing on their performance is vital. By nurturing
being recognized as a vital member of the team.
them, you can help increase their productivity, leverage their talents, and ultimately make your organization more successful. On the flip side, if you ignore your unsung heroes, they may tire of being taken for granted and slide into providing a minimal level of performance.
In today’s turbulent economy, good managers understand the importance of managing the performance of every employee. Those in the middle, while not as aggressive as their fast-track counterparts, are definitely concerned with how they are perceived by their managers. Often, they will not ask for the feedback they desperately need to feel valued—the same feedback that enables them to grow, evolve, and make a positive impact on the success of your organization. By supporting your unsung heroes and singing their praises, you will truly be investing in some of your organization’s greatest assets. Tama Murphy is director of certification and training at The Culinary Institute of America and is a certified culinary professional and certified culinary sales professional.
The Power of Paella The strains of a Spanish guitar. The aroma of chorizo, peppers, shellfish, and saffron bubbling away in gigantic paella pans. The smiles on the faces of more than 800 hungry people. That’s what you would have experienced at the inaugural Cocina de las Américas Paella Cook-off. Held on March 14, 2010 on the grounds of the Pearl Brewery in San Antonio, this flavor-filled event was the result of the tireless efforts of Alumni Council member and San Antonio native Johnny Hernandez ’89. It was his vision to bring together the community and great chefs to celebrate Spanish culture. Indeed, 13 chefs from all over the country and Latin America came to compete in the Iron Chef-style paella competition. Together, they celebrated the food and wine of Spain and raised $20,000 for the CIA, San Antonio Scholarship Fund. The activities were kicked off on Saturday evening at a well-attended alumni reception. Guests were welcomed by Alumni Council Chairman Waldy Malouf and CIA, San Antonio Managing Director David Kellaway, who provided an update on the progress of the construction for the new campus building at Pearl. As for the results of the fiercely contested cook-off; Ben Ford, son of actor Harrison Ford and owner of Ford’s Filling Station in Culver City, CA, won first place; Alumni Council member Peter Holt ’97 of Lupe Tortilla in Houston took second place; and Jeffrey Balfour from the San Antonio Valencia Hotel placed third. Among the CIA alumni who participated were Trustee Lori Daniel ’79 (judge), Waldy Malouf ’75, Lisa Brefere ’78, Brooke Brantley ’97, Robert Kabakoff ’86, James Sanchez ’94, Andrew Gutierrez ’00, and Charles Large ’06. This is the first of what we hope will be many such events held at the new CIA campus in San Antonio. Special thanks to Johnny Hernandez, whose new restaurant, La Gloria, just opened to rave reviews and is right across from the CIA, San Antonio campus!
lisa brefere ‘78, robert kabakoff ‘86, and waldy malouf ‘75 bring their paella to be judged
event organizer johnny hernandez ‘89 enjoying great paella
brooke Brantley ‘97 shows off his paella
mindy rich receiving the trailblazer award at the 2010 women’s foodservice forum leadership conference
Vice Chairman, Rich Products Corporation; Sponsor of the Apple Pie Bakery Café; Member, Board of Trustees (2001–present); CIA Honorary Doctorate (2001) What Motivates You to Give? It was ingrained in me while growing up that giving is not only for those you help, but for yourself as well. When the CIA first approached my husband, Bob Rich, Jr., and me about the Apple Pie Bakery Café, it was just a concept. We were excited about having the opportunity to support the initiative for a number of reasons. We are dedicated to the foodservice industry, and the Café not only serves its customers with outstanding bakery products, it provides a learning venue for the students. The Café also allowed us the opportunity to showcase our products. For example, our pizza dough was incorporated into the menu and
great job President Ryan and the CIA faculty and staff have done achieving the college’s mission. As a board member, I have a lot of opportunities to be on campus. The students are driven and passionate. It feels great to interact with them and it is gratifying to help them reach their dreams. It is a privilege to be part of the CIA.
How Do You Give? Giving is not just about money. Giving time and energy, and contributing to what you believe in, like the CIA, is the full package. I have been a board member since 2001 and we (Rich Products) began supporting the CIA before that through scholarships. I’ve chaired committees, been an ambassador for the CIA in the industry, recommended prospective students, and hired graduates. We have also been good customers. We offer our own associates the opportunity to take continuing education courses at the CIA, tap CIA Consulting for new product
received a favorable response from the chef-faculty and students
development, and host roundtables for our customers at the CIA.
while solving an operational problem for the Café. Through our
Rich Products Corporation is known around the world as a pioneer in
sponsorship and products, we were able to help provide a good
the frozen food industry and a leading supplier and solutions provider
experience at the Café for students, faculty, and customers.
to the foodservice, in-store bakery, and retail marketplaces. Since 1945,
What Makes Giving Meaningful?
the company’s history has been marked by innovative breakthroughs, an
We see how the CIA is influencing our business through
Can™,” and aggressive worldwide growth. www.rich.com
educating students who will shape the future of the industry. It
unparalleled commitment to “Caring For Customers Like Only a Family
feels good to be a part of that. That feeling is reinforced by the
aleasha rice prepares for a busy day at the apple pie bakery café
of traditional French pastries and baked goods made fresh and
A.O.S. Baking and Pastry Arts ’07, A.O.S. in Culinary Arts ’09, B.P.S. in Culinary Arts Management ’10
be well-rounded, so I completed both associate degree programs
High Impact Leadership Scholarship, Women’s Foodservice Forum Award (to attend its 2010 Conference) Student Employee and Beneficiary of the Apple Pie Bakery Café Experience
in-house. I believe to be successful in this industry you need to in baking and pastry and culinary arts and stayed on to complete the B.P.S. program. Today, my dad calls me for both cooking and baking tips. I anticipate beginning my career with Fairmont Hotels.
The Impact I worked at the Apple Pie Bakery Café since the second year of my baking and pastry program. Being there helped me to get
I’ve been baking holiday butter horns, stollen, and spritz cookies—
to know the regular customers and feel like a part of their day. I
among other traditional German breads and sweets—with my
also learned firsthand the importance of retail merchandising—
dad and grandmother since I was four years old. We’d begin
designing packaging to attract customers is part of the experience.
baking for Christmas dinner and brunch the first weekend after
Working in baking and pastry is very detailed and creative.
Thanksgiving. When I was little I would wake to the smell of
Decorating and designing a cake is like painting. The Café
butter, sugar, and yeast and know—today we are baking! I love
provides a venue for baking and pastry students to showcase their
the smell of yeast. My dad is the one who really got me hooked
work and express themselves visually. Rich Products Corporation
gave us an excellent gift when they helped launch the Café. This
Hopes for the Future
place allowed me to work with great people and continue learning
I love history and hope to one day own a historic hotel with a
a meaningful way and brought a sense of truly belonging to all
fine dining restaurant that serves modern, Americanized versions
baking and pastry students at the CIA.
mise en place no.53, September 2010
outside of class. It has made me feel connected to the college in
Alumni Council Corner
Many alumni give back to the CIA by hosting gatherings that bring alumni together to support each other and their alma mater. These events always prove to be fun, lively, and, of course, delicious! Here are just a few of the most recent events hosted by our generous alumni. This past March, members of the Alumni Council headed down to San Antonio, TX to participate in the inaugural Cocina de Las Américas Paella Cook-off. This wonderful event was the brainchild of Johnny Hernandez ’89, who wanted to give back to his local community and his alma mater. As he does every year, Michael Garbin ’76 hosted the alumni reception during the NRA meeting weekend in Chicago. Susan Roth ’79 threw a “Party in PA,” prepared and presented by her culinary students at Northampton Community College. In June, Dale Miller ’79 hosted the always-successful Cor/CIA Food, Wine, and Golf Event in Albany, NY, to raise money for student scholarships. David Miguel ’78 hosted his seventh annual Alumni Across America event at the Westerly Yacht Club in Westerly, RI to support the CIA Alumni Scholarship Fund. And, we celebrated our first alumni gathering at the Greystone campus with an afternoon of Coals, Cabs, and Confections—an interactive meal with wine tasting and chocolate delights. Come September 24–25 we will be hosting Alumni Homecoming 2010 at the Hyde Park campus. We hope you to see you there. As always, the Council is looking for ways to support and connect alumni to one another and the CIA. If you have an idea for an event, whether it’s an after-work mixer, a networking opportunity, or a scholarship dinner, please let us know. We can help transform your idea into a reality! Want to get involved? Please contact the Alumni Relations office at 845-451-1401 or email@example.com. You Make Us Better! Sincerely, Waldy Malouf ’75 (Chair), Waldy@Beaconnyc.com P.S. Be sure to update your information! It’s easy; just visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com or send us an e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Donald P. Campbell is
a place where he spent so much of his
the Careers through Culinary Arts pro-
retired. Randall Tilton has
youth. Armen Sujohn is retired and
gram (C-CAP). Salvatore Parco owns
enjoying life more than ever.
Dine with Sal in Mt. Pleasant, SC.
retired from the Clearwater Country Club in Clearwater, FL.
Kenneth Benson is chef/ owner of Pete Fumo’s Italian
Restaurant in Manor, TX. After 10 years
Steven Capodicasa is senior techno chef at Fir-
menich, a global flavor and fragrance company based in Switzerland with
Rick Paul is owner of the White Light Diner in Frank-
Michael Garahan is foodservice manager at the
fort, KY, which was featured on Food
Job Corps in Carville, LA. For years, he’s
Network’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.
been producing a healthy pecan granola
away, he returned to the restaurant busi-
sold as a fund-raiser for the Ocean Medi-
ness to open Pete Fumo’s.
cal Center, a hospital in New Jersey that
Genevieve Bardwell is owner/baker of Rising Creek
Vincent Colucci is executive
Bakery in Mt. Morris, PA. Timothy
chef for Rome Memorial
McGrath took over the professional
Hospital in Rome NY. He also volunteers
services at Westlake Culinary Institute in
at the Utica Boys and Girls Club with
Westlake Village, CA in March 2010. He
baking and cooking. Vincent is happy
is also chef/owner of his own catering
to have the opportunity to give back to
business and teaches students involved in
cared for his mother during her battle with breast cancer. Check it out at www. chefsformammograms.com. Benjamin Sutton is pleased to announce that his daughter graduated from the CIA in June 2010. He owns Chef Bens Catering in Hiawassee, GA. Raymond Williams is
an office in Princeton, NJ, where he is responsible for developing flavors and menu innovation. He was featured in the Winter 2008/09 edition of Art Culinaire magazine. Peter K. Huber is director of dining services for Aramark at Houston Baptist University. His son Peter is currently studying for his A.O.S. degree at the CIA. John Smigielski works renovating classic old hotels and inns along the coast of Maine. Stephen Worsley is cheffing “for the yachting crowd” in Split, Croatia.
food director/chef at the Newark Senior Center in Newark, DE.
John Cruse is director of culinary and nutrition services of
Mason General Hospital in Shelton, WA.
Dino Gatto is executive chef
Keith John Wallace is an
for Rao’s Restaurant in New
He is the president of the Shelton Rotary and father of two sons.
Michael Baskette is a full-time instructor at the
investor and building owner
of South Pointe Country Club in Carson City, PA.
Art Institute of Jacksonville in Florida. He is also an author and private food service consultant. He recently received the World Association of Chefs Societies
George Lamaze has retired.
president and Mrs. obama pose with Joe scully ‘87 (second from right) and his family
(WACS) Educator of the Year Award during their 2010 World Congress in Santiago, Chile. Michael serves as
officer of CBL Path, Inc. in Rye Brook,
The Obama Effect
Education Committee and has helped
NY. Her son Max was born in February
develop and administer several educa-
When businesses in Asheville, NC heard that President and Mrs.
2010. Edward Bujarski is founder of the
tional programs for WACS, including the
Wharton High School Culinary Academy
Train-the-Trainer Program and Culinary
in Tampa, FL. Ed won the 2009 National
to host them. Joe Scully ’87, co-owner of Corner Kitchen, felt the
School Recognition Program. Michelle
Restaurant Association Education Foun-
Elliott is chef-instructor at the Institute of
dation’s Maynard Award for his outstand-
same way. His partner’s wife even went to the lengths of repeatedly
Culinary Education in New York. She was
ing efforts to educate future members of
e-mailing the White House with an invitation to dine. With no answer
nominated as one of the “Top Ten” pastry
the foodservice industry.
from Washington, they thought all hope was lost.
special projects manager for the WACS
is corporate compliance
chefs of 2010 by Dessert Professional online magazine.
Jesse Bartyzal is chef/owner of B&B Chefs Endeavors, a
Joseph Bianchi is owner/ executive chef of Cucina
Bianchi Personal Chef Service in New Jersey. Adolfo Veronese is chef/owner
consulting firm in Medford, OR. He took
of LaForchetta Catering in San Francisco,
the first-place gold medal at the Oregon
CA. His son Nino is three years old.
state crab competition and a silver medal at the Oregon Albacore Tuna competition. Dan Palsi is executive chef at the Manasquan River Golf Club in Brielle, NJ. In May 2010, he was an honorary guest speaker at the Brookdale Community College commencement ceremony in Lincroft, NJ.
On the Tuesday before the President’s scheduled visit, a group of eight 20-somethings eating in the upstairs dining room seemed inordinately interested in the restaurant, the chef, and the building. The server answered their questions and thought no more about it. On Thursday, Corner Kitchen received a call from a fellow who wanted to rent the upstairs dining room on Saturday night so he could propose to his
David Daniel is executive chef at Tallahassee Memo-
rial HealthCare, which is operated by
girlfriend. He said it would be a party of six. It seemed an odd idea to propose in front of friends, but hey, a reservation was a reservation.
Sodexo, in Tallahassee, FL. Christopher
Come Saturday night, Joe and his family were across town having
Heywood is vice president for travel and
dinner at another restaurant when they got the call—“the President
tourism public relations for NYC & Company. He was married in March 2010.
and Mrs. Obama are here with two other couples for dinner.” Joe and
David Kaufman is chef/owner of the
his family raced back to Corner Kitchen, passed through the Secret
Mark Fritchie is senior sales
newly opened Zombie Doughnut Café in
associate for BakeMark, USA
Service gauntlet, and made it inside. The restaurant was full, the
in Reno, NV. He also enjoys running his ice carving business, Ice on Occasion. He lives with his two children, David and Maxwell.
Obama were coming to town for a weekend, they all hoped to be able
Obamas were upstairs, two Secret Service agents (one a chef/agent)
Jimmy Mohammed is
were in the kitchen carefully watching the President’s meal being
executive chef for CRAVE
prepared, and other agents were peppered throughout the restaurant.
restaurants in Orlando, FL. Christopher Whitaker is chef/owner of Frenchman
When the President’s party emerged after dinner, they took the time
David Coontz is director
Bay Restaurant Group in Maine. He
of dining services/executive
recently married and has an 11-year-old
for pictures; shook the hands of every server, busser, and cook; and
chef for Rappahannock Westminster-
Canterbury, Inc. assisted living facility in Irvington, VA. He received the Chef of the Year award from his ACF Chapter. Daniel Kubanet is vice president for business development at Trusthouse
even joked around with some of the remaining patrons. Turns out that those eight diners on Tuesday night were really the
Eric A. Frost is executive sous chef for The Litchfield
Saltwater Grille in Litchfield, CT.
Services Group in Charlotte, NC.
President’s advance team checking to see if the restaurant passed muster. It was a thrill of a lifetime for Joe, his family, and the restaurant staff. And they are still feeling the Obama effect with increased sales and much fame!
mise en place no.53, September 2010
CIA Symmetry There’s a perfect CIA
Geoffrey Tracy is
vilion in Los Angeles, CA. In 2008
owner of Chef Geoff’s,
Brandi was diagnosed with cancer.
which will be celebrating its 10th
Her recovery and current clean bill
symmetry to this story
anniversary this year. Chef Tracy
of health have inspired her to begin
about Jennifer Shen ’06
also co-owns the management com-
writing a book about her journey.
pany 2 tee, LLC operating Hank’s
Chester Watson is sous chef for
Tavern & Eats.
Quince in San Francisco, CA.
and Benjamin Seto ’06. They met and started dating in their junior year at the Collins College for
Marc Dunham is chef de cuisine at The
Ranchers Club in the Atherton
cently promoted to sous
chef at The American Club Hong
Hotel at the School of Hotel and
Kong, in Hong Kong, SAR, China.
Restaurant Administration, in the
She is enjoying every minute of her
College of Human Environmental
time in Asia. Stephen Forsyth has
Sciences at Oklahoma State Uni-
accepted a position as development
(Cal Poly) in Pomona, CA.
versity in Stillwater, OK. He was
chef in the U.S. Army’s Family and
invited to cook at the James Beard
Morale, Welfare and Recreation
House in July 2010.
Command. He’s training at the
Hospitality Management at the California State
Their instructor at Cal
Hale Koa Hotel in Honolulu as a
Poly, Scott Rudolph, is a 1997 CIA graduate and jen shen ‘06 and ben seto ‘06 on their wedding day
Beth Cosgrove was re-
naturally a great supporter of the college’s programs.
He encouraged the pair to continue their studies at the CIA. “Once we had seen the facilities and curriculum, our biggest problem was figuring out which CIA campus to enroll at,” said Ben. Deciding they loved the Napa Valley, they enrolled at Greystone—Jen in the Baking and Pastry Arts Certificate Program
Melvin (Mel) Carter is co-owner of Blue Hill
Tavern, named one of the 50 Best Restaurants in the March 2010 edition of Baltimore magazine.
Beverly Hills. Ben landed a job at the Silverton/Batali/Bastianich, Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. When marriage plans were being made, it seemed right that they return to the Collins campus and have Chef Rudolph, with the help of
Mark Danziger is chef/owner of Danziger
Catering in San Francisco, CA.
Michael Brown is a master’s degree
studying under CIA alumni Dr. Richard Ghiselli ’81 and Dr. Carl Behnke ’85. He will graduate with a degree in hospitality and tourism management. One day,
Michael hopes to return to the CIA
a class in Venetian
to teach. Lynnsey M. Ramos is
Carnivale sugarpaste at the Cake
pastry cook for The Ritz-Carlton in
Decorating with the Masters at
Dana Point, CA.
the Wyndham Oceanfront Hotel. Matthew Hiebsch is sous chef for Garces Restaurant Group in
menu and prepped for it!
Singapore. Jen will continue working with Sherry Yard to open CUT Singapore,
Steven Ciccone taught
19 eager students, create their nuptial meal. Of course, the couple designed their
Now they are about to embark on a whole new adventure as they head for
ment of Defense.
candidate at Purdue University
and Ben in the Accelerated Culinary Arts Certificate Program (ACAP). After graduation, Jen took a job with Sherry Yard ’91 at Wolfgang Puck’s CUT
civilian employee of the Depart-
Doug Goettsch has been promoted from
manager of culinary services to national account executive with
Rachel Hollander is
Hawkeye Foodservice Inc, in
manager at Hyde Park
Coralville, IA. Nicholas Jones is
and Ben will be helping to open Pizzeria Mozza Singapore.
Grill in Columbus, OH. She mar-
coordinator for culinary learning
ried in February 2010 in Columbus.
at Northwest Arkansas Commu-
Fully prepared after their experiences at the CIA and beyond, they are
Ian Purdy is sous chef at Carmen
nity College in Bentonville, AR.
Anthony Restaurant in Waterbury,
Daniella Vanoni is pastry chef for
CT. He recently got married and
Trattoria Aroma in Buffalo, NY. She
has two sons, Dean and Cole.
is a sponsor of the “Sweet Charity
looking forward to the change. “We anticipate that sourcing product, menu development, and training will be great challenges in Singapore—not to mention
Event” to benefit the food bank of
the culture shock,” explained Jen. “The big adjustment will be general lifestyle and work environment. But we are excited, too! It’s really a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We are honored and proud to be a part of two great projects overseas.” The kind of perfect symmetry we find in Jen and Ben’s story is one we’ve heard many times from our alumni. Relationships forged at the CIA cast a web of ever-broadening connections that make it possible for our alumni to have unique experiences around the globe.
Marisa Edelstein is baker for the Aria Hotel
and Casino in Las Vegas, NV. Eric A. Schappert is general manager/ chef for Metz and Associates, located at Johnson Technical
western New York. She was recently featured in BuffaloRising.com.
Nick Jones has opened Ginnie’s Place at the
Center for Nonprofits at St. Mary’s
College in Scranton, PA. Brandi
in Rogers, AK. He will supervise
Stevens is restaurant manager at
students pursuing degrees in culi-
Cafe Nordstrom in the Westside Pa-
nary arts and hospitality.
all this he is able to
How does a candidate for a CIA culinary arts degree end up as baking center manager at Lesaffre Yeast Corporation—makers of SAF and Red Star brand yeast and dough conditioners? He takes his externship in the
mimic each customer’s baking environment and processes.
bakeshop of the Bedford Village Inn in New Hampshire and falls in love
Problem solving is at
with baking. Then he returns to complete his degree and immediately
the heart of Mark’s job,
finds himself in Chef Rich Coppedge’s bread class for culinary students.
and focusing on shifting
He couldn’t fight it—Mark Miller ’96 was sold, and chose baking as
industry trends keeps
everything fresh and
After graduation, Mark went to work at the in-house bakery of the American Club in Kohler, WI. While there he met CIA extern Kathy Mueller ’00. A romance began that is still going on. Mark’s move to Chicago to work pastry at the Ritz-Carlton and then at the Midwest Commissary Bake House for Whole Foods helped him flesh out his experience in front of the oven. About seven years ago, Mark took the job he now has at Lesaffre/Red Star in Milwaukee, WI. “I just love my job,” he explained. “I do a lot of controlled and test baking, and I get to work with a lot of different customers, products, and baking processes. Let’s say a customer wants to expand their bakery line to include frozen dough. That requires ingredient and formula modifications. We offer those ingredients and can help them make those formula and process changes. We have yeast that is specifically designed to perform better in frozen dough, something they may not have been aware of. We can run tests for them on our own, or they can come to our baking center to work with us.” Mark works in a dream bakeshop. It’s fully equipped with different kinds of mixers, proofers, and ovens, as well as lab equipment that measures yeast fermentation, flour quality, and enzyme activity. With
interesting. For example, the baking industry is looking to “clean their labels,” according to Mark. They want more natural ingredients, including dough conditioners, to use in
mark and kathy at his bakeshop
commercial baking. Mark works with them to incorporate the newer, cleaner stabilizers into their products. He also helps companies who are involved in reducing sodium in their products to use other yeast-based alternatives to maintain the flavor of salt. Unless Mark is in the middle of a project that is time-sensitive—which does happen when working with yeast products—he is grateful that he has time for his other passions. He loves playing golf, working in his vegetable garden, cooking at home, and, of course, spending time with Kathy—who has left foodservice to work in the software arena. One doesn’t need more proof to realize that this baker has made all the right choices!
B-Block Baby Paul Fucello and Erica (Halstead-Johnson) Fucello ’03 are proud to announce the birth of their first child, Caroline Jean, on July 28, 2009. With two parents who met and fell in love at the CIA during B Block, it’s only fitting that we see Caroline sleeping peacefully atop some culinary classics while “wearing” a toque and apron. As for mom and dad…after seven years of working as sous chef and executive chef in a number of places, Paul recently returned to work at his CIA externship site, The Seaware Country Club in Hewlett Harbor, NY. Erica, no doubt, has her hands full at home training a future CIA alumna!
a future chef, learning by osmosis!
the resort, I check in with the restaurants and assist the outlet managers. In the afternoon there are meetings with internal management and wine suppliers as well as visiting professionals. During slower months, I conduct food and wine training sessions for staff. I’ll often show guests around the Summer Palace or host a private wine tasting tailored to the client’s tastes and interests. In the evening, I look after the restaurants and bar, recommend beverages, assist with service, and occasionally entertain special guests and media. At the end of the night, I either head downtown with friends to enjoy Beijing’s nightlife or home to catch up on my sleep! Every quarter I make a regional trip to other Aman properties in China, Thailand, Indonesia, and India to conduct beverage training and support with operations. It’s a great opportunity to travel. How do the Chinese view wine? Wine has never been part of daily life for the Chinese people. Even a moderately priced bottle of imported wine may cost the average worker crystal edgar ‘02 loves meeting the people of beijing
an entire month’s salary. Many Chinese purchase wine based on the label—wines from Bordeaux or with “Château” on the label are usually
the most popular. But for those who are not interested in wine or prefer
Crystal Edgar ’02 is cellar master at Aman at Summer Palace in Beijing, China. More and more CIA grads are venturing to Asia to develop their culinary skills and absorb a new culture. Here, Crystal answered some of our questions about living and working in Beijing. How do you find living in such a different culture? The best thing about living in a different culture is the adventure. I love foreign languages and my efforts to learn Chinese have not only aided me in day-to-day tasks but also helped me build trust with the hotel staff and local clientele. Of course, I love the food adventures. There are so many different styles of cuisine in China—just not enough time to sample everything! The only downside of living abroad is missing my family. Describe your typical day.
something fast and cheap, the local beer is inexpensive and available. “Baijiu” or “white spirit”—generally 80 to 120 proof—is also popular among the “sophisticated” social and business crowds. It is made of sorghum, wheat, barley, glutinous rice, and millet. The flavor is strong and, to me, offensive. It is served in shot glasses designed for toasting colleagues, usually during business dinners. Of course, there are knowledgeable wine drinkers; however, they are in the minority. That’s where I come in! How would you describe yourself and your approach to your career? I believe one of the keys to success in any industry is passion. If someone were to ask me mine, I’d have to say that people, culture, travel, and food and beverage would be at the top. I am so fortunate to have a job that offers all of these joys; it brings out the best in me and allows me to share my knowledge and experience with others.
On my way to work at the Summer Palace I grab my favorite Chinese snack from a street vendor. Jianbing is fried egg with chili and garlic paste, chopped cilantro, and scallions wrapped in a mung bean crêpe. Once at
Robert Holcomb ’56
Ronnie G. Mullins ’68
Scott Reny ’88
David B. Sellers, Jr. ’96
Smith Forbes ’57
Charles L. Midura ’70
Michael Dunn ’90
Scott Jaffe ’97
William Duffy ’60
Robert J. Craig ’72
Mary Frances Goodman ’90
Teejay Fountain ’03
Arthur Thayer ’63
James F. Simmons ’84
Karen Vera Strand ’93
James Handy ’05
AND THE WINNER IS… Wow! What a response. So many of you sent in great captions for this picture. But it was James L. Miller ’76 whose caption won him free admission to this year’s Alumni Homecoming on September 24–25,
“OK. Now tell me again, just what you were doing before the explosion?”
2010. We look forward to seeing James and the rest of you there!
holiday menu mishap contest Win a soft, cozy CIA fleece blanket to keep you warm on cold winter nights. It’s easy! Just share your favorite or zaniest Holiday Menu Mishap story with us in 100 words or less. DEADLINE: October 15, 2010! Post your story online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com or send it to: The Culinary Institute of America, Alumni Relations Office, 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY 12538
The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499
LAST CHANCE to register! T
r 24 embe
Sept urday t a S y&
• Relish Friday’s Decades Dinner • Enjoy a BBQ and Ice Cream Creation Station • Take in Panels and Speakers • Laugh, Learn, Dine, and Network
Register now at www.ciaalumninetwork.com or call us at 845-451-1401. Hope to see you there! Alumni Relations Admissions 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 ciaalumninetwork.com
Advancement 845-905-4275 ciagiving.org
CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaprochef.com
General Information 845-452-9600