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ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

No. 53, September 2010

Keys to Café Success


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Keys to Café Success Essentials for creating a thriving café

16 China Road

A pictorial look at the B.P.S. food, wine, and agri(culture) trip

12 10 Years of Apple Pie

Celebrating the APBC’s anniversary

26 Investing in the Middle

Supporting your organization’s unsung heroes


12 18 Across the Plaza

Under the Toque | Following the Presidential Trail | It’s

16 27 Gifts at Work

The Power of Paella | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

Chowda-Time | A Tradition of Sustainability: St. Andrew’s Café

21 Education for Life

Worlds of Flavor Conference | Book Shelf | Unique Program Graduates First Class | “Friending” & “Fanning” Your Career Kudos

30 Class Notes

Alumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam


No matter where in Europe or Latin America I have traveled, some of my most vivid memories are of hours spent in small cafés nibbling on pastry and sipping a latte, cappuccino, or hot chocolate. While sitting in those cafés I’d feel that, for a change, time was a friend, not an adversary.

mise en place® No. 53, September 2010 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

That feeling, so easily evoked in Paris and Venice or Oaxaca and Santiago,

Contributing Writers

has made its way to America. We all owe a debt to Alfred Peet, the son of a

Ron Hayes ’02

Dutch coffee roaster, who came to the U.S. after WWII and found the state of

Sue Sorenson Lee

American coffee abysmal—after all, we were boiling our coffee in percolators!

Jenifer McEnery

Determined to bring good coffee to Americans, he opened Peet’s Coffee and

Francisco Migoya

Tea in Berkeley, CA in 1966. His shop became Mecca for coffee devotees and

Tama Murphy

he was known for mercilessly browbeating his customers into appreciating the

Brigid Ransome

art of fine brewing. At that time, only a smattering of coffeehouses existed in the U.S., so it

Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Chet Koulik Francisco Migoya

own coffee company, they headed to Seattle and named it after the first mate in

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

Moby Dick—Starbuck. They pluralized it for aesthetic reasons and were satisfied.

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Tama Murphy

The logo, designed by Heckler, represented a mermaid–like siren calling the

Brad Barnes ’87

sailors to a cup of coffee. Dare I say the rest is history?

Sue Cussen

Anthony Nogales ’88

Whatever one thinks about the mega-corporation that is Starbucks, that single

Ron DeSantis ’81

storefront in Seattle was the precursor to what we now call the American-style

Heather Kolakowski ’02

was Peet’s that caught the eye of three guys who loved great coffee and just happened to be looking for a way to make a living that didn’t include tiny offices and a nine-to-five existence. Gordon Bowker, Zev Siegl, and Jerry Baldwin went to learn at Peet’s knee. Once they were ready to launch their

café. And though sipping my grande skim latte and nibbling on my madeleine

Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Jen Stack ’03

in Starbucks can’t compare with a similar snack on the Left Bank in Paris, I can still open my paper, lean back in an upholstered chair, and take my time. And, if I’m still there at noon, I might get a sandwich to go. So grab your favorite beverage and café treat, take a seat, and enjoy this latest edition of mise en place. Nancy Cocola, Editor

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students. Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved. Original Art: Anders Benson ’10 Photography: Laura Brantley, Shirley Cheng, Keith Ferris, Mike Gutowski, Anne Rettig

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CIA + AOL = Kitchen Daily

easy-to-access resources and recipes

division, will now expand to include the

With AOL’s Kitchen Daily being the third

to the professional chef. Healthy Baking

company’s Higher Education division.

with Almonds explores the bakeshop

“Aramark’s partnership with the CIA is

opportunities of one of America’s most

part of an ongoing commitment to provide

popular nuts. Video demos illustrate how

our culinary leaders with the training and

to use California almonds in every format—

tools needed to excel in their careers, and

from almond oil to almond flour to almond

deliver outstanding outcomes for our clients

milk—enhancing the nutritional profile of

and customers,” explained Chris Hackem,

pastries, breads, and desserts.

president, Aramark Higher Education.

most frequented food site on the Internet, and the CIA bursting at the seams with food-related content, a marriage between the two was almost inevitable. Since separating from Time Warner, AOL has been aggressively marketing itself as a digital content provider. In fact, it has more than 80 original content sites, including Moviefone and Mapquest. AOL’s Kitchen Daily was the perfect platform for the CIA to continue to grow its awareness among both prospective students and consumers in general. Right now, the CIA has more than 63 instructional videos featuring our faculty available on Kitchen Daily, with more to come. Check it out and see what some of your old profs are up to at www.kitchendaily.com/category/

Aramark Makes Its Mark Aramark is expanding its partnership with the CIA, reaffirming its commitment to honing the company’s culinary talent through the college’s prestigious ProChef®

Together, Aramark and the CIA have created a customized, hands-on course that provides chefs with a real-world experience focusing on menu diversity and innovation unique to large-quantity production.

Certification program. The relationship

The View from the Top

between the two organizations, which

Download the brand-new podcast of CIA

began back in 2008 with chefs from

President Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 as he talks

Aramark’s Sports & Entertainment

about the process of becoming a Certified Master Chef, the value of a formal culinary

kitchen-basics.

education, and the qualities that set the CIA

Ciaprochef.com—e-learning

ciachef.edu/podcasts where you’ll also

A virtual journey to learn all about the cheese of France or to get the inside scoop on almonds is just a click away at

apart from other culinary colleges. Visit find conversations with such culinary luminaries as Charlie Palmer ’79, Grant Achatz ’94, and Dan Coudreaut ’95.

ciaprochef.com. Cheeses of France offers a comprehensive program providing up-to-date,

mise en place no.53, September 2010

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Keys to Café Success Essentials for creating a great café By Francisco J. Migoya, with Nancy Cocola

In my years in the industry I have seen, lived, and been part of

To operate a thriving café, one must be a master of many trades

much of the recent evolution of food in the United States. I am not

and have a profound understanding of quality, refinement, and

referring to trends, which seem to come and go at an increasingly

business. Customers have become more sophisticated, and in

fast rate, but to the growing appreciation that consumers have

order to meet their needs, there has been a mini-career explosion

developed for good, accessible, moderately inexpensive food. I

in the past decade—producing better-trained bakers, pastry chefs,

have also realized that even though consumers have very high

and chefs. There is a lot of talent out there. It keeps getting harder

expectations, they would like their food promptly expedited

and harder to be financially successful and distinguish yourself

so they can get on with their lives. Enter the modern café.

from the competition. The keys to a café’s financial success are

For the chef/entrepreneur who wishes to start his or her own

both the quality of the products and the way they are sold—from

café operation, this article will highlight some of the keys to a

display to take-away.

successful café.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com


A café can offer a variety of items such as breakfast pastries (viennoiserie), artisan breads, pastry items (cakes and entremets), savory items, confections and chocolates, packaged shelf-stable foods, ice cream and other frozen desserts, and last but certainly not least, beverages. Not all cafés will offer all of the abovementioned items, but in order to be financially healthy, there should be at least a combination of two or three of them. And always keep in mind that, first and foremost, people enter a café for the coffee. Your investment in the proper equipment and training to make a truly great cup of coffee is well worth the expense. So let’s start at the beginning with…

mise en place no.53, September 2010

…A Great Cup o’ Joe Go ahead and resign yourself to investing a large chunk of change in your espresso machine. Try not to skimp on it or buy a secondhand one. Look for an espresso machine with a dual boiler or two separate water heaters. Remember, espresso is brewed with water that is at a lower temperature than the water that is needed to steam milk. If you have a single boiler, you will have a good espresso with a poor steamer, or vice versa. The need for two boilers is, in part, what can make the machine so expensive. Keeping this in mind, the machine should have two separate

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Chocolate XS Cake $ 6.95

Blueberry Brioche $ 2.95

Lemon Meringue Tart $

5.95

water sources and an accurate thermostat. Perform weekly tests on

But savory breakfast pastries will be some of your top-selling items.

the temperature of the water the machine is outputting and make

Sometimes as bakers or pastry chefs we lose sight of the savory world

adjustments as needed. The brew heads, or where the brewing takes

and its possibilities in the bakeshop. Not every one of your customers

place in the machine, need to be made of a heavy-gauge stainless

has a sweet tooth. A lot of people would much rather have scrambled

steel. This ensures that the water temperature can be held consis-

eggs for breakfast. The problem is that not everyone has the time to

tently with minor fluctuations, and it will also result in a longer life

sit down and wait for those eggs to be made. But they can order a

for the machine.

savory scone and a glass of orange juice and be on their way. In every bakeshop I have worked, at least 10 to 15 percent of the products

Try to anticipate the volume you will be making daily. If your machine is too tiny, you won’t be able to keep up with orders. If you have a huge machine with few customers, you’ve spent your money

sold have been savory, and they consistently rank among the top-ten sellers.

unwisely. Finally, make sure the manufacturer offers training for

It is a good idea to invest in a commercial toaster with a conveyor belt-

your staff and a preventive maintenance program. Maintaining your

like system, since many people enjoy their pastries toasted—not only

machine is worth every penny. If you care for your machine and use it

savory items but sweet ones as well. One of the best things to eat, at

properly, you will have a line going out the door of people wanting a

least in my opinion, is a warm croissant with butter and jam, or a hot

cup of your espresso.

biscuit with some butter and marmalade. Always keep in mind that

Of course there are many other brewing methods, from automatic drip brewers and cone filter drip to vacuum pot brewers and, my personal favorite, the French press. The chart below will help you gauge some

whatever you put into the savory pastries must be shelf-stable.

critical factors in making a perfect cup of coffee depending on the

Beyond Breakfast

process you use.

If you have decided to have a savory lunch/ dinner service, you must recognize one

Something to Go with Your Coffee

important thing. Café food should not be

Breakfast pastries like the croissant, baguette, pain au chocolat, donut,

confused with cafeteria or diner food, which

sweet muffin, and brioche hold a very important place in the café.

*The grind time depends on the type of grinder, but this is a good range for most commercial burr grinders.

Type of grind

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Type of brew

Grind time

Brew time

Water temp

Coarse

French press

10 seconds

4–6 minutes

195°F–205°F

Medium

Automatic Drip

15 seconds

4–6 minutes

195°F–205°F

Fine

Cone Filter

25 seconds

1–5 minutes

195°F–205°F

Very Fine

Espresso Machine

30 seconds

20–30 seconds

195°F–205°F www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Red Velvet Cupcake $ 3.95

French Macarons $ 6.95

Croissant $ 2.95

has its place. The food served in a café falls somewhere between a

different kinds of display cases. There are front loading, rear loading,

restaurant and a bistro, with an emphasis on speed and convenience. It

and top loading. The front-loading case is the easiest to stock and

is high-quality food delivered in an expeditious way that can be eaten

access. Always make sure that the case is clean. A good habit to

in-house or taken to go. Preparation should be à la minute, unlike the

develop is taking the items out of the case once the café is closed

bakeshop, which features ready-to-serve items.

and performing a deep cleaning of the inside and outside. Nothing

Purists will argue that there is nothing like cooking 100% to order. However, there are certain foods that, once cooked, can be held in

turns people off more than a smudged, crumb-filled case. It is truly a reflection of the café.

adequate conditions for a few hours. Consider the Combi ovens (hot

Try to put items in the same place every day. It is important for

air and steam cook ovens), Alto-Shaams (radiant heat and hold ovens),

your returning customers to know where to look in the case for their

and the CVap (steam and hold oven) as possible equipment worth

favorites. Try to keep the chocolate items in the furthest bottom

investing in. They each allow for a variety of items to be prepared

corner. Chocolate desserts will usually be your best seller. If someone

ahead of time, cooked properly, and held for extended periods of time,

wants chocolate they’ll find it, no matter where you place it! And you

within reason. Start small when adding new items to the menu so you

want to ensure a good sales mix that takes some pressure and weight

can test them out on your customers and get their feedback.

off of the chocolate items.

Being On Display

Another important consideration is to try to have as many different

Your customer has walked through the door. In addition to the

example, don’t have two square brown desserts next to each other,

aroma of fresh breads, pastries, and freshly brewed coffee he or she is

even if they are different flavors. Try to keep the colors in balance.

immediately aware if your operation has an ease of setup and visual

When you place items in the case, always make sure that the signs

appeal. What impression does a person get when coming in? Are the bakery goods appealing and easy to see and access? Have you set the flow so people can effortlessly figure out what to

shapes and colors as possible in the display case—mix them up. For

are clear. They should say exactly what is in the dessert, its price, and, in the case of cakes, how many people it serves. Make sure that the desserts are symmetrical, straight, and perfectly lined up. The

do if they wish to grab and go or stay for a while? Never

customers will take notice of this because it favorably reflects care,

underestimate the power of ambience.

precision, cleanliness, and finesse.

The All-Important Case

Wrapping It Up

People will fall in love first with what they see, and then with how it tastes. If it is visually appealing, symmetrical, and clean, it makes people happy. Of course, taste and texture are the

Don’t forget that one of the reasons for going to a café is that it provides convenience. Many customers want their food packaged quickly so they can get going. This sounds much simpler than it is.

ultimate determining factors, but how do you get someone to taste

Packaging is one of those seemingly minor components of your café,

what you make in the first place? In a café the menu is completely

but it isn’t; it’s critical. Think of it as advertising. The actual package

on display and people will order what they see. That is why a lot of

can convey a lot of information about your establishment—like your

thought needs to be put into how the display case is presented.

logo and your colors. Don’t forget that even though your packaging

The case should always be functional and capable of a quick temperature recuperation time, since the door will be opened and

needs to be visually appealing, the ultimate function of packaging is that it must get the product safely from point A to point B.

closed many times during hours of operation. There are many

mise en place no.53, September 2010

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Transporting the Goods

cake. All of these things, if executed well, will help boost profits by

One of the links in the chain between the café and the consumer is

great food, specialty cakes, and small gifts.

the transportation of the product to wherever the customer is taking it. That is why whenever a new item is introduced, you need to think about packaging as part of the puzzle. How will it be packaged so

Salting Away Profits

that it makes it safely to someone’s home? If it cannot be packaged at

Always remember the power of the impulse buy. A retail shelf offers

all (either because it is too tall or it contains a liquid, for example), be

flexibility and diversity like nothing else. And a quick and cost-

honest with your customers and suggest a different item.

effective way to drive up sales is to offer salts, spices, and various

Package sizes should be considered carefully. A cake box, for example, should be about .5 cm/.2 in. bigger than the cake board, and it should be front loading, not top loading. It is nearly impossible to take the cake out without damaging it if it is in a top-loading box.

condiments on your retail shelf. Chances are, you won’t be harvesting your own cinnamon from Vietnam or sea salt from the marshes of the Blackwater River in England, but you can source them from a high-quality spice monger. Though high-quality spices are not cheap, they are worth the cost. Most of these items can be purchased in bulk,

For petits plaisirs and other individual desserts, box each one

which brings the price down. And there is very little labor involved

individually in same-size boxes, and then put them in a larger box to

in selling spices and salts. All that has to be done is to put the spice,

keep them in place. It is good to have an all-purpose box for small

salt, or condiment in a package and label it. Stylish, airtight jars with

desserts, medium desserts, and cakes, and some others of varying

attractive labels that reflect your brand are a great way of making the

sizes. Try to stick to a general dessert dimension so that there is always

items a must-have for your customer. As long as you store your spices,

a box available. It is a good idea to anchor down the dessert if it is

salts, and other condiments properly—in a cool, dry place in airtight

assembled on a cake board, a small board, or a flat base of any sort.

containers—they will have a long shelf life. In some states, for legal

Use a sticker with the establishment’s logo on it. This will keep it from

purposes, you have to mention somewhere on the label the item’s place

moving around in the box.

of origin.

The quality of the containers is important. Food will usually come in

One idea for the retail shelf is to sell themed, assorted boxes. For

direct contact with the packaging. If it is cardboard- or paper-based,

example, put together a box with four different varieties of pepper, or

it needs to a have a coating that will make it somewhat resistant to

six different kinds of salt. To encourage a sale, you can charge a little

moisture. If the package starts to show grease spots or wet spots, not

bit less than it would cost to purchase all of the items individually.

only is it unsightly, it also means that the package might be weakened

Situate your retail shelf so people waiting in line will have ample

and could break. There’s always the option of using plastic containers.

time to see what you have and go for that lightning-fast impulse buy.

I recommend using recyclable or biodegradable products.

Another way to add value for your customer is to have an attractively

Now that you have all the packaging determined for your items, be sure you have enough room to store all of it. Ideally the containers will be stackable or store flat, ready for assembly when needed. Of course, if you have a particular item on your menu and no box in stock to

printed flyer or brochure on the retail shelf that offers information explaining the nature and quality of the items as well as recipes for using them at home.

accommodate it, plan ahead and purchase the correct size boxes for

Everybody’s Working for the Weekend

when the dessert or cake comes out on the menu. Oh, and one more

Maybe your greatest challenge is converting your weekday regular

thing—whatever the cost of your packaging, make sure it is included in

into a Saturday shopper. During the week, individual and small

the price of the bakery item.

pastries or breads will be the most requested items. But from Thursday

Upscale Upsell Diversifying a café’s offerings is a smart way to increase sales. Your average consumers are more food-savvy and sophisticated now than

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ensuring that your customers view your café as their destination for

to Sunday, many people partake in social gatherings with friends and family. This means that they will need something big enough to serve a larger group of people. Weekend products can be extremely profitable as they are often your regular products, just larger.

they were 10 years ago. These customers also know people who share

It’s always wise to remind your daily customers, when they pop in

similar interests. That makes food-related items just the right gift for

on Friday morning, of any items you have available for a weekend

almost any occasion, so you should offer a variety of high-quality,

gathering like a large miche to share, a dozen breakfast pastries for the

shelf-stable products on a retail shelf. Think also of converting your

next morning, a cake for a celebration, a box of chocolates, or a pound

Monday–Friday coffee and croissant customer into a weekend regular.

of coffee as a hostess gift. Your job is to make sure you always have

And always remember the power of the emotional special occasion

these types of products available at the right time of the week.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Occasion-al Benefits Not everybody thinks about ordering a cake weeks in advance for a special occasion. That’s why it is always good to have cakes on tap. You can become known as the café that bails out a customer in need. Typically we will tell patrons that we need at least 48 hours advance notice to make their cake. And while some cakes do take that long to prepare from beginning to end, the mise en place needed to be able to produce a special-occasion cake or two can be kept on hand for those last-minute emergencies. After a few weeks, the cakes might begin to sell every day, especially when regular customers realize they can come to the café for their lastminute needs. It is important not to take advantage of your customer’s dire situation by jacking up the price of these last-minute items. Instead, be generous and charge what you normally would. Your customers will appreciate it and the gesture will build their loyalty. Some items are seasonal, such as the Bûche de Noël cake for Christmas. In these cases, do try to insist on advance ordering, but always have enough to offer to those people who rush in at the last minute. No matter how many you make, you will typically sell them all, especially around closing time.

It’s in the Details It’s always important to remember that, for better or worse, the tiniest little detail will have an impact on your business. Those businesses that are struggling are often caught in a downward spiral caused by an array of small, bad decisions. Conversely, one big event is rarely what determines a business’ success. It’s the day-to-day decisions that can make or break an operation. That is why thoughtful planning, perfect execution, creative thinking, and constant re-assessment are keys to your café’s success. Chef Francisco J. Migoya is an assistant professor in baking and pastry arts at the CIA. In addition to The Modern Café (2010), he has authored Frozen Desserts (2008). This article was excerpted and adapted from The Modern Café by Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America.

mise en place no.53, September 2010

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10 Years of Apple Pie Celebrating the APBC’s anniversary Sweet, satisfying, and successful are words

The operation was a success. Everyone loved the opportunity

that can easily be ascribed to the Apple Pie

to get world-class food quickly and with minimal fuss. And the

Bakery Café’s (APBC) first decade. What

surroundings were so welcoming that people lingered over their

began as an ambitious dream has turned into a thriving educational and fiscal venture at the CIA. Over the years, Café patrons have poured through the doors in search of fast, casual, high-quality food in an inviting setting—and they certainly found what they were looking for. Ten years ago, the impetus to create the APBC was threefold—the growing enrollment in the CIA’s baking and pastry program, an industry segment poised on the verge of exploding, and the fact that our baking and pastry curriculum was moving from a certificate to a degree program. The eventual success of the APBC was a result of meticulous planning, creativity, and a very generous seed gift from the Rich Products Corporation. Everything from the name of the Café to the look and feel of it was open for discussion, research, and testing. The name was decided with the aid of a campus-wide contest that solicited suggestions from faculty, staff, and students. The original menu was developed through tastings by baking and pastry faculty and culinary instructors. Former CIA president Ferdinand Metz worked closely with architects from Dinella and Schaeffer to maximize the use of the space. Our facilities appearance and management team of Mike Critchley, Bob Tracey, and George Smith chose the floor tile color and design, and Lyde Buchtenkirch-Biscardi ’72 created all the wrought iron decorative work on the walls and table holders. Becky Oetjen, facilities project manager, worked with Evergreen Painting Studio, Inc. to create the lovely mural in the back of the dining area. And, the display window was designed to open to the hallway so the aromas from the kitchen would entice patrons into the Café.

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coffee or tea. Five years ago, Tom Vaccaro ’85 current senior director for baking and pastry education, was given the oversight reins for the Café. “I inherited a very successful operation,” Tom explained, “and was mandated to ensure its continued growth and prosperity.” For Tom, bringing success to an operation hinges on having the right people for the right job and identifying the tools they need in order to succeed.


In 2005, Assistant Professor in Baking and Pastry Arts Francisco Migoya and Assistant Professor in Café Operations Denise (Hall) Mazzei ’96 took over the back- and front-of-the house, respectively. Their enormous creativity and drive, along with the implementation of a management brigade system and staffing structure, were the spurs needed to capitalize on the Café’s previous success and take it to the next level.

Success

As the popularity of the APBC grew, one of the happy problems

creates other

facing the team was controlling the flow of patrons through the

challenges. The

Café experience. The small, round retail tables situated at the front

Café team wanted to be

of the café left people confused about where to go first—the counter

sure that once an order was

or a table. Tom and the staff tapped their collective experience

placed, it was served within 12

and research to determine what was needed to control flow. What resulted was a gorgeous wrought iron and wood retail structure that naturally directs the flow of patrons to the front of the Café to order, gives them something to look at while they are waiting, and increases overall sales.

minutes. To that end they instituted a Kwik Deliver System (KDS) that tracks an order to the appropriate station—be that savory kitchen, pastry counter, or beverage service—and alerts staff, through a system of yellow and red flashing lights, where they stand on reaching that goal. This system enables the APBC Managers-in-Training to see problems as they arise and help expedite. The use of this system continues to be a work-in-progress for all APBC staff. To ensure that the Café continues to provide excellent service, product, and profit, the team there decides on three initiatives a year they feel will improve the Café and keep it fresh. In recent years, projects have included creating a specialty cake catalog, building new wine cabinets, the establishment of a wine steward position, baking artisan breads right in the Café’s kitchen, and the advent of exciting and flavorful ice creams. Use of the window display in more creative and eye-catching ways has also been one of the recent initiatives. Each of these new ideas goes from ideation to development of product or process, from assessment of equipment needs to a pilot program for test and review. The retail section of the APBC is now focused on a single location— the long wrought iron and wood piece as you walk in. Another recent and attractive initiative was to choose boxes that would highlight the quality of the retail products being sold. After a search, the team chose new boxes that are sleek and sophisticated, and entice one to open them! When you enter the APBC you find yourself in the perfect gathering place to linger over your coffee, nibble your perfectly crafted chocolate croissant, or dig into a savory meal presented with whimsy, flair, and exquisite flavors. Next time you’re back on campus, be sure and make time to enjoy the pleasures of the Café.

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Under the Toque By Brigid Ransome, Illustration by Anders Benson ’10 Do you remember your wild-eyed wonder, thinking of CIA instructors as larger-than-life beings—skilled chefs and walking culinary encyclopedias with the power to make your life happy or miserable?

Joe DiPerri ’78

Associate Professor in Culinary Arts

Q What is the craziest thing you did when you were a CIA student? A Oh, that’s the Eyeball Story. I stole a fish eye from the fish room

and went screaming into the nurse that I got my eyeball knocked out. After giving this sweet, gentle, grandmotherly woman a heart attack, I quickly took my hand away from my eye and showed her I was joking. She calmed down quickly and then slapped me across my arm saying, “Never do that again!”

Q What book is the last book you read?

A This Wheel’s on Fire: Levon Helm and the Story of The Band by Levon Helm.

Q What was your most memorable CIA moment?

But in reality, under those perfect toques are some witty and wry

A The day I passed my cooking exam to become a member of

personalities that you may not have expected. I sat down with a

the faculty.

handful of our resident instructors to get a peek at who they are

Rob Mullooly ’93

beyond the kitchen and classroom. Turns out, they are just regular people, who are still just as enamored of the CIA as you were when you walked the halls.

Jerry Fischetti ’78

Associate Professor in Business Management

Q What would you eat for your last meal?

A Since I only eat vegetables and fish now, I’d treat myself to a Fred Flintstone-sized rib-eye steak, char-grilled rare with a huge pile of French fries—the ultimate final nail in the coffin.

Q What is the one spice you can’t live without? A Saffron, for its unmatched visual beauty.

Q What is your most memorable CIA moment? A Being the speaker at graduation for my class.

Assistant Professor in Culinary Arts

Q What would you eat for your last meal?

A Bacon cheeseburger with disco fries and a tall chocolate shake.

Q What is the craziest thing you did while you were a CIA student? A A bunch of us would go swim in the Hudson River. I honestly don’t know if I would do that again!

Q What is your most memorable CIA moment?

A Having my second and fifth term practical exams judged by President Metz—an honor.

Bruce Mattel ’80

Associate Professor in Culinary Arts

Q What would you eat for your last meal? A Peking duck.

Q What is the last book you read?

A Pecos Bill with my eight-year-old son. For myself, I just started In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan.

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Q What is the one spice you can’t live without? A Pimenton.

Douglass Miller ’89

Lecturing Instructor in Hospitality and Service Management

Q What was your most memorable CIA moment? A Winning Faculty Member of the Year in 2005.

Q What would you eat for your last meal?

A Besides my grandmother’s macaroni and cheese, potato salad, and sweet potato pie, I would have to say a cheese steak,

Brendan Walsh ’80

Lecturing Instructor in Culinary Arts

Q What would you eat for your last meal?

A Well, on the way to heaven I would want a few laughs so… maybe a meal from day one in K-16!

Q What is the last book you read?

A I just started The Big Short: Inside the Doomsday Machine—because is sounded light and uplifting!

Q What is the one spice you can’t live without?

cheese French fries, and birch soda from Ishkabibble’s Eatery on South Street in Philadelphia.

Q What is the last book you read?

A Domesticating Drink: Women, Men and Alcohol in America 1870–1940 by Catherine Gilbert Murdock.

Q What is the craziest thing you did as a CIA student?

A Snowboarded into Lake Velouté.

A Chilis of course.

Gregory Zifchak ’80

Cynthia Keller ’83

Q What would you eat for your last meal?

Associate Professor in Culinary Arts

Lecturing Instructor in Culinary Arts

Q What would you eat for your last meal?

A I’d start with Champagne and Fisher’s Island oysters, roast woodcock with sautéed foraged parasol or late fall oyster

A Lobster ragoût with asparagus, fresh pasta, and morel mushroom cream sauce.

Q What is the craziest thing you did when you were a CIA student?

mushrooms, Michel’s bread, and a glass of vintage Bordeaux—no

A I clipped tulips from the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Mansion

point in saving it if it’s my last meal ever. A simple apple tart for

property for a special dinner my class prepared. I was a foolish

dessert with a good washed-rind cheese would top it off.

18-year-old with no money!

Q What was your most memorable CIA moment?

Q What is the last book you read?

A The opening ceremony of the American Bounty Restaurant, with Craig Claiborne, Paul Prudhomme, and James Beard on the

A On the Run: An Angler’s Journey Down the Striper Coast by David DiBenedetto. It follows striped bass as they make their annual fall

dais. I was a first-year student and it was really moving to know

migration south from Maine to the Outer Banks where they spend

that American chefs were about to come into their own. It was a

the winter.

really big deal. Brigid Ransome anticipates getting her A.O.S. degree in September 2011. As part of the CIA/SHA collaborative degree program, Anders Benson ’10 is currently at the Cornell School of Hotel Administration seeking his B.A. degree.

15


ChinaRoad When 26 bachelor’s degree students took off from Newark Airport heading to Beijing, China on April 18, 2010, they had no idea what awaited them. Theirs was the first B.P.S. Food, Wine, and Agri(culture) trip to make its way to the Asian continent. There could have been

DAY

1–2–3

A 13-hour flight to Beijing and then a three-hour flight to Chengdu ended with check-in at the lovely Wen Jun Mansion Hotel. DAY 3: The Chinese supermarket Ren Ren was an eye opener. And dim sum lunch at the Long Chaoshou Restaurant meant dramatics from a tea master who really knew how to pour!

DAY

no better leader to guide the students than Professor in Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng. She deftly led students through a 21-day adventure tasting, experiencing, and breathing in the Chinese cultural traditions and culinary pleasures. Here’s a small taste of what they experienced.

4

DAY

Chef Cheng’s former student, Chef Chen Ju Min, demonstrated how to make chrysanthemum fish flowers, spicy pork, dumplings, and bao tze at the Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine. After lunch, students practiced creating these dishes. In the evening they saw Chinese opera performed on the street.

A hands-on day at the Jiazhu Tea Farm had students wearing traditional hats and baskets while picking their own tea. A tea master evaluated their harvest and showed them how tea was cured by hand in bronze bowls heated to 350º–400ºF. As they left the farm, students received tea bags made from the tea they had picked. day 4: jiazhu tea farm

DAY

10

DAY

day 11: bamboo sea national forest “raft race”

16

11– 12

DAY

A visit to the Bamboo Sea National Forest included a gondola ride to the top of the mountain, a lunch of various bamboo shoot dishes, a hike through the woods, a bamboo raft trip to cross a river, and then a trek through the bamboo sea where terraced temples grow out of cliffs. Amazing!

Students visited the enormous Wu Liang Ye Rice Liquor Factory, which produces the largest volume of rice liquor in China. A trip to the Yibin Fermented vegetable factory, which produces this staple ingredient in Chinese cuisine, was an olfactory challenge for our students.

5

DAY 12: Two salt museums were on tap, where students learned about salt wells and explored modern and ancient salt production methods.

13– 14

In Ping’Li old town, a woman buying fish shocked students by taking it right out of the barrel and beating it senseless on a rock. A tea tasting at the Wang Jia Courtyard Museum set students up for a day of shopping, shopping, and more shopping at the kitchen wholesale market.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

day 11: bamboo sea national forest


Day 6: pujiang Rice Liquor Factory

DAY

6

A visit to the Pujiang Rice Liquor Factory revealed bare-chested, bare-footed men carrying out the fermentation process in relatively primitive conditions. At the Pixian Hot Bean Paste Factory, students saw outdoor fermentation tanks that produce 4,000 kilotons of paste a year.

DAY

7

DAY

The somewhat automated Quan Xin Rice Liquor factory still bottles its rice liquor by hand. A visit to the Sichuan Culinary Museum took students on a tour of China’s culinary history. Lunch was served at the teahouse and gardens in the museum.

8– 9

Students learned about traditional Chinese medicine and then ate a dietarily balanced meal at Quin Shan Zai Restaurant. Students walked Jin Li Street, a major business center since 200 BC. DAY 9: At the Chengdu Panda Research Center, students paid from $75–$150 to have their pictures taken with the docile pandas. Fees are used to support the Center and care for the remarkable mammals. “Best day ever,” said some of the students. Day 9: chengdu panda research center

DAY

15– 16

The group spent Day 15 traveling to Xian. DAY 16: The Terracotta Warrior Museum impressed the students with both the size and popularity of the venue. Soldiers had been buried in formation with archers, horses, and chariots.

DAY

17– 18

The 8½-mile-long Xian City wall, built in the Tang Dynasty, is still completely intact and comes with a moat. Some intrepid students rented bicycles to ride around the wall. Left for Beijing. DAY 18: An emotional visit to Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and the Imperial Palace Museum left students feeling they were standing in the presence of history.

Day 16: terracotta warrior museum

DAY

19

A visit to the 2008 Olympic Bird Nest Stadium was the start of a day that found the students struggling up the steep Great Wall of China, where making it to the 8th tower—the White Cloud Tower—was a major achievement.

DAY

20

DAY

At the Dragon Seal Wine Museum, students tasted wines and then lunched on Beijing-style roast duck at the Quanjiude Roast Duck Restaurant.

21– 22

At a farewell meal at the Dynasty Winery—a Sino-French, joint-venture winery—dancers entertained the students and got them up to dance! DAY 22: Homeward bound with mixed emotions and memories that will last a lifetime! day 19: climbing the great wall

17


Following the Presidential Trail

Singapore

The job of a college president means wearing many different hats.

This past spring, Tim joined fellow educators at Temasek

In recent months, President Tim Ryan has served as a speaker, an

Polytechnic and the Singapore Institute of Technology to review

honoree, and a sage. He’s stood before student groups, professional

our current program there and to discuss the possible expansion of

groups, and groups of his peers. And, he’s done all this while

our partnership with them.

traveling from coast to coast and abroad.

New Haven, CT As part of the 2010 Alvine Engineering Professional Effectiveness and Enrichment Program, the University of New Haven (UNH) invited Tim to participate in its distinguished lecture series and give a presentation on “The Future of Food.” The visit to New Haven was a nostalgic one for Tim. Not only is UNH Tim’s alma mater (he received his B.S. in hotel & restaurant administration in 1993 and his M.B.A. in 1996), but New Haven is also the birthplace of the CIA. Tim drove by our original campus and found that Yale has beautifully restored the building, once called Angell Hall.

New York, NY At the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards gala at Lincoln Center in New York City, Tim was inducted into the Who’s Who in Food & Beverage in America. When asked why this particular award is different from the other James Beard Awards, President Ryan explained, “Many James Beard Awards are given for a specific project—a book, a restaurant, or television show. The Who’s Who is given in recognition of an individual’s career. Because I have spent the majority of my career—28 years now—at the CIA, I believe that this James Beard award is a tribute to the entire CIA community and our collective accomplishments over the years, more than it is about me. I am proud to represent the college and proud of what we’ve accomplished.” During another visit to the Big Apple, Tim and Mark Erickson ’77 met with key members of the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation— Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse ’92—to review the success of the most recent Bocuse d’Or USA competition on the Hyde Park campus, and to iron out the organizational details for the January 2011 International competition in Lyon, France. Mark Erickson is slated to coach the U.S. team!

tim presenting at UNH

St. Helena, CA A couple of months ago, Tim traveled to the west coast where he participated in the National Restaurant Association’s Educational Foundation Leadership Classic. From there he headed to our Greystone campus to spend time chatting and answering students’ questions at a reception. While at Greystone, he delivered the annual State of the Institute presentation for all of the faculty and staff there, and presented anniversary awards. Greystone celebrates its fifteenth anniversary this summer and there are a number of employees who have been with the college since the beginning. Making the most of his trip west, Tim also met with alumni to discuss ways to further the CIA’s mission.

18

james beard foundation who’s who inductees— (left to right) david rockwell, susan spicer, leah chase, jessica b. harris, and tim

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


It’s Chowda-Time Seashells, sand, fishing nets, and oyster crackers were in

Adding to the day’s excitement were rapid-fire oyster shucking

abundance. Add to that, large pots of piping-hot clam chowder,

and oyster eating competitions that had the crowd cheering and

oyster shucking and oyster eating competitions, a room full of

urging on their favorite contestant. In the end, Cap’N Case ’n the

hungry spectators, and a panel of discerning judges. Voilà, you

Beej’s Crawfish and Andouille Chowder with Jalapeño Cornbread

have the CIA’s Ninth Annual Chowder Cook-off held on April 11,

Crumble bubbled to the top of everyone’s scorecard. They came

2010. To complete the seaside carnival theme, a caricaturist was

away with both the Judges’ award and the People’s Choice award.

present to entertain spectators while they waited for the judging,

In second and third place in the Judges’ Competition were The

a DJ played “beach music,” games were played, and draft beer

Corny Crabbers and The “A” Team, respectively.

was imbibed.

What made it possible for Cap’N Case ’n the Beej to take home

With the CIA’s Student Recreation Center transformed and

two top awards, including a check for $800 in prize money and a

ready, nine teams ceremoniously brought in their “winning”

$100 gift certificate to Oceana? Bryan Casey, B.J. Lieberman, and

pots of chowder for judging. Throngs of spectators anxiously

Phil Picard may have said it best when they explained, “We were

awaited their chance to taste and judge which chowder they would

very careful to respect of each of our 31 chowder ingredients. We

select to win the People’s Choice award. A panel of judges that

layered the flavors and worked at making sure there was a balance

included CIA instructors Corky Clark ’71, John DeShetler ’68,

so heat didn’t overwhelm flavor.”

Hubert Martini, Darryl Mosher, and John Reilly ’88, as well as CIA ombudsman Wayne Almquist, retired CIA instructor Jim Heywood ’67, and former instructor Craig Goldstein took their jobs seriously as they started to scrutinize each entry. To win the Judges’ Competition, teams were scored on two different criteria. First, each team presented a fully garnished, restaurant-quality bowl of chowder to be judged for aesthetic appeal. Next, they presented a tasting bowl that was judged for flavor and use of ingredients. Once the anxiety of presenting their

Also receiving accolades that day was “master shucker” Glen Kobayashi, who made his way through several rounds of oysters before winning the top prize in the oyster shucking competition. Second place went to Alex Geller, with Hyeon Ju Lim finishing in third place. Joe DiPerri ’77 judged this contest. David Berquist single-handedly ate 12 of Glen Kobayashi’s spicy oysters in the finals of the oyster easting competition. Kevin McCann finishing second and Leonardo Reed took third.

chowder to the discriminating judges was over, contestants offered

Everyone agreed that the competition provided plenty of crowd-

CIA students, staff, and friends samples in the hopes that their

pleasing chowda!

chowder would be the Peoples’ Choice.

the shucking competition drew cheers from the crowd

mise en place no.53, September 2010

(left to right) winners B.J. lieberman, bryan casey, and phil picard

19


A Tradition of Sustainability:

St. Andrew’s Café

The land on which The Culinary

ribs. If the team wants to put ribs on

Institute of America now stands

the menu, they have to stockpile them

in Hyde Park, NY has a long

in the freezer to make sure they have

history of sustaining those who

enough to offer as a menu item.

live and work upon it. Back in 1903, when the Jesuit novitiate St. Andrew-on-Hudson was built on this site, many of the 85 acres were dedicated to agriculture— meeting the daily needs of the members of the order.

culinary skills, they are learning the art of preserving the harvest. Under the guidance of their chef-instructor, students have been testing recipes for the St. Andrew’s Preservation Guide. This testing includes measuring pH

The novitiates were fairly

levels in various fruit and vegetable

cloistered and therefore had

combinations and developing a system

to be self-sustaining. They

of methods and procedures on how to

maintained a herd of 45 dairy

efficiently pack preserved goods into

cows, a piggery, and a chicken

jars. The recipes have been developed

farm on the north end of the

for those items abundant in the

property. Acreage was planted

Hudson Valley’s fall harvest. So far,

with corn, apples, and potatoes.

students have created spicy corn relish;

There was even a vineyard to

smoked tomato chutney; pickled beets,

the east of Albany Post Road.

cauliflower, and squash in a variety

The Jesuits had to build a

of spice blends and brines; and apple

stone lookout tower to ward off

butter and pear compote recipes. All of

hooligans who wished to pilfer

these are preserved to bring brightness

the grapes! For the most part,

and flavor to the gray days of winter.

they practiced many of the same principles of sustainable agriculture currently gaining worldwide acceptance.

Beyond the truly priceless hands-on experience, students live the farm-tofork philosophy, read Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food, and familiarize themselves with such food policy

Today, the eponymous restaurant on campus—St. Andrew’s Café—has

issues as the USDA Farm Bill. In addition, they will learn about the

been re-dedicated to the philosophy and practices started so many

real challenges facing local food economies.

years ago. These principles of using local, sustainable food sources coupled with the art and science of food preservation are now embedded in the curriculum and reflect the CIA’s commitment to our students and our planet.

A commitment to sustainability means going green in every way. In December 2009, the Green Restaurant Association awarded St. Andrew’s Café a two-star certification. To earn the certification, the restaurant had to become environmentally conscious in all areas of

In that spirit, students at St. Andrew’s Café now learn using a 32-

operation, including food sourcing and purchasing, energy usage,

page sustainable-cooking course guide and curriculum. Students are

waste disposal, and water usage.

breaking down and using the whole animal—what is popularly called “snout to tail”—requiring not only new cooking skills and methods but also perfect planning. They no longer just order what they want from the CIA’s storeroom, so planning menu items takes on new meaning. For example, a whole pig only comes with two racks of

20

Students are not only learning new

Green Restaurant Association founder and executive director Michael Oshman says, “The CIA is the nation’s preeminent culinary institution. The fact that they’re integrating this into their education process will have great impact.”

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


13 t h A N N U A L WO R L D S O F F L AVO R I N T E R N AT I O N A L CO N F E R E N C E & F E S T I VA L T h e C u l i n a r y I n s t i t u t e o f A m e r i c a a t G r e y s t o n e | N a p a Va l l e y, C A

2O1O

JAPAN: FLAVORS OF CULTURE

From Sushi and Soba to Kaiseki: A Global Celebration of Tradition, Art, and Exchange

NOVEMBER 4–6, 2010

The largest and most significant professional conference ever held in the U.S. dedicated to the flavors, culinary techniques, and food cultures of Japan. More than 50 top chefs and exper ts from Japan—including an unprecedented delegation of Michelin-starred chefs—will be featured.

Immerse yourself in one of the world’s greatest culinary traditions, from the Japanese heritage of preserved foods, including miso and soy sauce , to the sizzling Tokyo restaurant scene; the craft of Japanese soba and ramen noodles; a deep dive into umami, dashi, and other flavor strategies; an insider’s taste of the legendary dining of Kyoto; sushi, sashimi, and the Japanese fish kitchen; the culture of green tea; techniques from aromatic shiso tempura to Japanese live fire; and much more. With the rise of Asian flavors in American foodservice, you can’t afford to miss this conference. Please join us!

REGISTER TODAY! | 1-888-799-1810 | www.worldsofflavor.com ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America


Book Shelf Produce

The SoNo Baking Company Cookbook

By Brad Matthews ’74 and Paul Wigsten If you’re seeking a

By John Barricelli ’80

comprehensive guide to produce, then this

Out of the ovens at SoNo

publication is for

Baking Company &

you. Part of CIA’s

Café in South Norwalk,

new Kitchen Pro

CT come fabulous and

Series focusing

foolproof recipes for

on kitchen

professionals and

preparation skills, this

home cooks alike. A third generation baker, John Barricelli brings together his experiences at River Café, Le Bernardin, the Four Seasons Restaurant, and his first bakery, Cousin John’s Café and Bakery, to share 150 of his time-tested recipes. From artisanal breads, specialty cakes, delicate pastries, trifles, and pies to cobblers, breakfast cakes, and cookies, your mouth will water

user-friendly resource provides practical and detailed information on product identification, seasonality, availability, storage, maturity and ripeness, taste, and utilization tactics of produce. Within its pages you’ll find practical information on fabrication as well as basic preparation methods and recipes. The full-color photographs highlight the distinctive differences in each food type, which is essential in cuisine identification.

the moment you open this book.

Cheese

Women Standing Tall: Food for the Soul

By John W. Fischer ’88 In this book, part of the CIA’s new Kitchen Pro Series, John Fischer provides

Edited by Brandi N.

readers with an

Stephens ’05

inviting and

This book, edited

accessible look

by CIA alumna

into the world of cheese. This

Brandi Stephens,

unique resource

shares recipes

explores the

provided by the

basic history of

mothers of professional basketball

cheese, its manufacture, and its

players to help raise funds for the LIFELONG AIDS Alliance. The mother of famed, former New York Knick

22

incorporation into different cuisines. Each cheese

and current Boston Celtic Nate Robinson shares her steak and gravy recipe.

is carefully described and provides you with information to

Mom of Dwight Howard, “Superman” of the Orlando Magic, lets us in on the

aid identification. Also covered are flavor profile, the aging

secret of her creamed spinach. Mary Anthony, mother of Carmelo Anthony

process, and “terroir.” An entire recipe section is devoted to

of the Denver Nuggets, gives up her avocado-orange spinach salad with

cooking with cheese, while another focuses on pairing cheese

tangy tomato dressing recipe. And Sandra Willis, mother of WNBA player

with the proper beverage. The full-color photographs make

Lisa Willis, shares the recipe for her incomparable seafood gumbo. Every

the mouth-watering cheeses easy to identify and even easier to

recipe in this book is a “slam dunk!”

want to sample!

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Unique Program Graduates First Class By Sue Sorenson Lee

Memorable graduation ceremonies occur frequently on the campus

about their work in a new way—from the perspective of an industry

of The Culinary Institute of America. But a new tradition began this

leader who recognizes the implications of all of his or her actions,”

past spring when the members of the inaugural class of the Culinary

said Victor Gielisse, associate vice president of business development

Enrichment and Innovation Program (CEIP) celebrated the conclusion

and co-founder of CEIP. “It’s demanding, but it provides the chefs

of their 18-month

an opportunity to

journey.

disconnect from their daily responsibilities

Created by the CIA

and reinvigorate their

in partnership with

passion for the craft.”

Hormel Foods, and sponsored by

The class of 2010

Hormel Foods, CEIP

experienced just that.

is the first advanced

“Looking back over this

management training

program, I realize that

program created

it has been a catalyst for

for chefs who

my ‘job’ in foodservice

will be assuming

becoming a ‘career’

industry leadership

in foodservice,” said

roles in the future.

Michael Edwards,

This elite group

culinary specialist,

of 16 professional

first class, U.S. Navy,

commercial and

and award-winning

non-commercial chefs

military chef.

first came together in October of 2008,

“I didn’t realize how

subsequently meeting

much of an educational

every six months for three days of intense

chef rudy speckamp instructs chef tim recher

of marketing for Hormel Foods and co-creator of CEIP, quoting the famous line from Field of Dreams as he spoke to the class of 2010 at

be for us—it’s very focused on learning how

study at the CIA. “Build it and they will come,” said Dennis Goettsch, vice president

experience this would

we can be better chefs, how we can be better executives, and what we can do to grow,” said Tim Recher, executive chef and director of outlets, Hilton Alexandria Hotel, Alexandria, VA.

graduation. But, as Goettsch explained, the founding partners had

Eric Cartwright, executive chef for the Campus Dining Service at the

no guarantee that aspiring chefs would experience what they had

University of Missouri, noted the strength of the formal components of

envisioned as they created the program. (See mise en place #47, p. 22)

the program as well as the learning he brought back to share with his

A blend of lectures and in-kitchen, hands-on learning, the CEIP also includes site-specific tours of organic growers, conversations

team. He also highlighted the lasting camaraderie created through the program.

on marketing theory with a local premium distiller, roundtable

In October 2010, the second CEIP class of talented and proven

discussions with industry leaders, late-night planning sessions with

chefs will gather to begin their journey of preparation for industry

CEIP team members, and role playing in case study assignments.

leadership.

Sessions are led by CIA Certified Master Chefs. “Our goal with the curriculum is to challenge these chefs to think

mise en place no.53, September 2010

For more information on the program, please visit www.ceipinfo.com. Sue Sorenson Lee, Hormel Foods

23


“Friending”&“Fanning” Your Career By Ron Hayes ’02 Your potential employers are on it. Your

creating an album of your work for public

potential employees are on it. Most

view. Now when someone receives your

important, your customers and your

friend request or wonders who is commenting on a post, he or

potential customers are on it. Facebook is no longer just a

she can click on you and see

time thief; it is a part of our

examples of your work. Also include a link in your

daily communications. If

electronic résumé.

you are not using Facebook to push your employment

• If you have a business,

and your business, you

create a fan page. If

are missing the boat—

your employer doesn’t

because your competition

have one, ask if you can

is also on it.

create one. You’ve just helped grow their business,

Make Professional Connections

so make sure to remind them of that at your next performance review. Have

• Search out those professionals

your friends “Like” the page.

whom you admire. Connect

Encourage your guests to “Like”

with them by including a

the page. Post often. Fan page postings

personalized introduction with your friend request. • “Like” pages of professionals and businesses you admire. • Once you have aligned yourself with these professionals and businesses, stay active with them. Comment on their posts. Reference them by using @ and their name in your posts. This will result in your post appearing on their wall, keeping you on their radar, and promoting your name and ideas to all their friends and fans. Consider this as prep. Know and be known now so when you are actively seeking a new position you already have a connection on the inside. No more cold calling or wondering if your online application made it through.

Promote Yourself and Your Business

show up in other fans’ news feeds—free, real-time advertising.

A Word About Privacy Check that your privacy settings read “Friends Only.” Of course, everything you put online can be found if someone is looking hard enough, but this setting will help keep you looking professional to the casual viewer. The best practice is to always assume “they” (potential employers, employees, coworkers, mom) are looking for you. For more information on how to use Facebook, contact Ron Hayes ’02 in the Office of Career Services: 845-905-4610 or r_hayes@culinary.edu, and “Like” our page at facebook.com/ CIACareerservices. Ron Hayes is a CIA career development officer.

• Facebook allows a customizable privacy setting for every photo album. Make a quick, free, online portfolio by

24

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


KUDOS

their recent work. My New Orleans, by John Besh ’92 was selected as Best American Cookbook, and Francis Lam ’03 won the Bert Greene Award for Food Journalism for his article “The Last Chinese BBQ ,” published in Gourmet magazine. At the 2009 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, Southeast Asian Flavors, written by Robert Danhi ’91, won the Best Asian Cuisine Book in the USA and 2nd Best Asian Cuisine Book in the World.

Students Show Their Skills For the fifth time in as many years, CIA students placed first and second in the New York

students flank honoree jefferson evans ‘47

State Post-secondary SkillsUSA Culinary Arts Competition held

Honoring Jefferson Evans ’47

in March. Alyssa Campos and

On Tuesday, April 27, Brad Barnes ’87 and seven CIA students

Yelena Del Mundo captured gold

traveled to Johnson & Wales to celebrate the achievements of Chef

and silver respectively. Alyssa

Jefferson Evans ’47, the CIA’s first black graduate and one of our

recently represented New York

former instructors. Many thanks to the following CIA students whose collaboration with their J & W counterparts resulted in a memorable

chef rob mullooly ‘93 poses with skills usa gold medal winner alyssa campos

feast honoring a wonderful man: Seung Hyun Cho, Kristopher Edelen, Yusra Hassan, Melia Kilbourn, Kenneth Lue, Kelly O’Neil, and Alex Snell. Special thanks to Brad for his dedication and work with these young culinarians.

Mastering Wine

court of sommelier masters with new master melissa monosoff

State at the SkillsUSA Nationals competition in Kansas City, MO, and won GOLD!

25 Out of 86 Before this year, the highest number of CIA graduates to earn James Beard Award nominations in a single year topped out at 18. We

Thirty-seven candidates

achieved that number twice and thought ourselves well represented.

arrived at the Meadowood

This year, CIA alumni made up 25 of the 86 nominations. In a field

Resort in California’s

of increasingly talented chefs, writers, and wine experts our CIA

Napa Valley to attempt the

grads always shine. We took away seven awards—including President

daunting three-day Master

Tim Ryan’s prestigious Who’s Who in Food & Beverage in America.

Sommelier test that measures

Congratulations to the nominees and these seven winners!

a sommelier’s knowledge of wine theory, beverage service,

and tasting ability. This year, only two candidates passed. As one of the two, Melissa Monosoff ’00, sommelier at Savona Restaurant in Philadelphia, joined a select group of only 103 other Americans who have successfully completed the rigorous examination and are members of the Court of Master Sommeliers.

Bookworms

Grant Achatz ’94—Outstanding Service Award: Alinea Todd English ’82—Television Special: Food Trip with Todd English Koren Grieveson ’96—Best Chefs: Great Lakes Jeff Michaud ’98—Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic Rick Moonen ’78—Television Show: Chef’s A’ Field: King of Alaska Ron Suhanosky ’92 and Colleen Suhanosky ’94—Book: Single Subject, Pasta Sfoglia And of course,

The International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP)

President Tim Ryan ’77—

Cookbook Award is considered one of the most prestigious honors

in culinary publishing. There were more than 500 entries submitted

Inductee, Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America

for consideration in 2010. Winners were announced in late April

Best New Chef

at the organization’s annual conference in Portland, OR. The

Roy Choi ’98, co-owner of the Los Angeles sensation Kogi Korean

CIA’s publishing division won a coveted 2010 Cookbook Award

BBQ-To-Go, was named a 2010 Best New Chef by Food & Wine

(Professional Kitchens category) for Baking and Pastry: Mastering the

magazine.

Art and Craft, 2nd Ed. Two CIA graduates were also recognized for

mise en place no.53, September 2010

25


Investing in the Middle Supporting Your Organization’s Unsung Heroes

By Tama Murphy

“Our employees are our greatest asset.” Despite the truth behind the

To motivate employees in the middle, you must understand where

sentiment, managers frequently fail to focus their attention on all of

they’re coming from and what drives them. Unsung heroes typically

their employees. In virtually every industry, it’s the top performers

fall into three categories:

and poor performers who get most of their manager’s time, often at

• Former superstars who have taken themselves off the fast track to

the expense of those in the middle. This middle group—the unsung

find balance in their lives

heroes who consistently meet the expectations established by the

• Functional experts who fill a specific niche in the organization

organization—constitutes the majority of employees. So what can

• Consistent performers who thrive in structured environments that

managers do to make sure that every member of the team gets the guidance and mentoring he or she needs and deserves?

have well-defined processes and procedures Former superstars are highly skilled employees who still produce

First, let’s look at some of the reasons why managers typically spend

exceptional results. Yet, they want to ensure a balance between their

about 80% of their time on 20% of their employees. It’s easy to

job and their outside responsibilities. These employees need to be

understand why performance that is below expectations needs to

valued for their intelligence and skills and receive assurance from

be addressed. By identifying the gap between actual and desired

management that their desire for balance is okay.

performance, managers are able to provide guidance and tools to help poor performers become solid contributors.

Functional experts fill a vital role in the organization. Because they have cultivated expertise in a specific area, they are very focused on

The organization’s fast-track “superstars” receive a great deal of

their assigned work and perform well on a daily basis. Functional

support and mentoring from their managers, who feel comfortable

experts need to be recognized for their specialized skill set and

providing positive feedback and rewarding exceptional performance.

unique contributions.

But while the high achievers’ contributions are significant, fast trackers often change positions as they rise through the ranks or leave the organization altogether to fulfill their potential.

Consistent performers put the needs of the organization ahead of being in the limelight. They value a work culture where there is limited risk, and are often perceived as viewing their work as a “job”

Let’s talk about the remaining 80% of employees. These “average”

rather than a “career.” However, this is far from accurate. Consistent

employees provide stability, expertise, and consistency to your

performers take pride in their career choice and are motivated by

organization, so focusing on their performance is vital. By nurturing

being recognized as a vital member of the team.

them, you can help increase their productivity, leverage their talents, and ultimately make your organization more successful. On the flip side, if you ignore your unsung heroes, they may tire of being taken for granted and slide into providing a minimal level of performance.

In today’s turbulent economy, good managers understand the importance of managing the performance of every employee. Those in the middle, while not as aggressive as their fast-track counterparts, are definitely concerned with how they are perceived by their managers. Often, they will not ask for the feedback they desperately need to feel valued—the same feedback that enables them to grow, evolve, and make a positive impact on the success of your organization. By supporting your unsung heroes and singing their praises, you will truly be investing in some of your organization’s greatest assets. Tama Murphy is director of certification and training at The Culinary Institute of America and is a certified culinary professional and certified culinary sales professional.

26


The Power of Paella The strains of a Spanish guitar. The aroma of chorizo, peppers, shellfish, and saffron bubbling away in gigantic paella pans. The smiles on the faces of more than 800 hungry people. That’s what you would have experienced at the inaugural Cocina de las Américas Paella Cook-off. Held on March 14, 2010 on the grounds of the Pearl Brewery in San Antonio, this flavor-filled event was the result of the tireless efforts of Alumni Council member and San Antonio native Johnny Hernandez ’89. It was his vision to bring together the community and great chefs to celebrate Spanish culture. Indeed, 13 chefs from all over the country and Latin America came to compete in the Iron Chef-style paella competition. Together, they celebrated the food and wine of Spain and raised $20,000 for the CIA, San Antonio Scholarship Fund. The activities were kicked off on Saturday evening at a well-attended alumni reception. Guests were welcomed by Alumni Council Chairman Waldy Malouf and CIA, San Antonio Managing Director David Kellaway, who provided an update on the progress of the construction for the new campus building at Pearl. As for the results of the fiercely contested cook-off; Ben Ford, son of actor Harrison Ford and owner of Ford’s Filling Station in Culver City, CA, won first place; Alumni Council member Peter Holt ’97 of Lupe Tortilla in Houston took second place; and Jeffrey Balfour from the San Antonio Valencia Hotel placed third. Among the CIA alumni who participated were Trustee Lori Daniel ’79 (judge), Waldy Malouf ’75, Lisa Brefere ’78, Brooke Brantley ’97, Robert Kabakoff ’86, James Sanchez ’94, Andrew Gutierrez ’00, and Charles Large ’06. This is the first of what we hope will be many such events held at the new CIA campus in San Antonio. Special thanks to Johnny Hernandez, whose new restaurant, La Gloria, just opened to rave reviews and is right across from the CIA, San Antonio campus!

lisa brefere ‘78, robert kabakoff ‘86, and waldy malouf ‘75 bring their paella to be judged

event organizer johnny hernandez ‘89 enjoying great paella

brooke Brantley ‘97 shows off his paella

27


Why Give?

mindy rich receiving the trailblazer award at the 2010 women’s foodservice forum leadership conference

Mindy Rich

Vice Chairman, Rich Products Corporation; Sponsor of the Apple Pie Bakery Café; Member, Board of Trustees (2001–present); CIA Honorary Doctorate (2001) What Motivates You to Give? It was ingrained in me while growing up that giving is not only for those you help, but for yourself as well. When the CIA first approached my husband, Bob Rich, Jr., and me about the Apple Pie Bakery Café, it was just a concept. We were excited about having the opportunity to support the initiative for a number of reasons. We are dedicated to the foodservice industry, and the Café not only serves its customers with outstanding bakery products, it provides a learning venue for the students. The Café also allowed us the opportunity to showcase our products. For example, our pizza dough was incorporated into the menu and

great job President Ryan and the CIA faculty and staff have done achieving the college’s mission. As a board member, I have a lot of opportunities to be on campus. The students are driven and passionate. It feels great to interact with them and it is gratifying to help them reach their dreams. It is a privilege to be part of the CIA.

How Do You Give? Giving is not just about money. Giving time and energy, and contributing to what you believe in, like the CIA, is the full package. I have been a board member since 2001 and we (Rich Products) began supporting the CIA before that through scholarships. I’ve chaired committees, been an ambassador for the CIA in the industry, recommended prospective students, and hired graduates. We have also been good customers. We offer our own associates the opportunity to take continuing education courses at the CIA, tap CIA Consulting for new product

received a favorable response from the chef-faculty and students

development, and host roundtables for our customers at the CIA.

while solving an operational problem for the Café. Through our

Rich Products Corporation is known around the world as a pioneer in

sponsorship and products, we were able to help provide a good

the frozen food industry and a leading supplier and solutions provider

experience at the Café for students, faculty, and customers.

to the foodservice, in-store bakery, and retail marketplaces. Since 1945,

What Makes Giving Meaningful?

the company’s history has been marked by innovative breakthroughs, an

We see how the CIA is influencing our business through

Can™,” and aggressive worldwide growth. www.rich.com

educating students who will shape the future of the industry. It

unparalleled commitment to “Caring For Customers Like Only a Family

feels good to be a part of that. That feeling is reinforced by the

28

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Giving’s Impact

aleasha rice prepares for a busy day at the apple pie bakery café

Aleasha Rice

of traditional French pastries and baked goods made fresh and

A.O.S. Baking and Pastry Arts ’07, A.O.S. in Culinary Arts ’09, B.P.S. in Culinary Arts Management ’10

be well-rounded, so I completed both associate degree programs

High Impact Leadership Scholarship, Women’s Foodservice Forum Award (to attend its 2010 Conference) Student Employee and Beneficiary of the Apple Pie Bakery Café Experience

The Beginning

in-house. I believe to be successful in this industry you need to in baking and pastry and culinary arts and stayed on to complete the B.P.S. program. Today, my dad calls me for both cooking and baking tips. I anticipate beginning my career with Fairmont Hotels.

The Impact I worked at the Apple Pie Bakery Café since the second year of my baking and pastry program. Being there helped me to get

I’ve been baking holiday butter horns, stollen, and spritz cookies—

to know the regular customers and feel like a part of their day. I

among other traditional German breads and sweets—with my

also learned firsthand the importance of retail merchandising—

dad and grandmother since I was four years old. We’d begin

designing packaging to attract customers is part of the experience.

baking for Christmas dinner and brunch the first weekend after

Working in baking and pastry is very detailed and creative.

Thanksgiving. When I was little I would wake to the smell of

Decorating and designing a cake is like painting. The Café

butter, sugar, and yeast and know—today we are baking! I love

provides a venue for baking and pastry students to showcase their

the smell of yeast. My dad is the one who really got me hooked

work and express themselves visually. Rich Products Corporation

on baking.

gave us an excellent gift when they helped launch the Café. This

Hopes for the Future

place allowed me to work with great people and continue learning

I love history and hope to one day own a historic hotel with a

a meaningful way and brought a sense of truly belonging to all

fine dining restaurant that serves modern, Americanized versions

baking and pastry students at the CIA.

mise en place no.53, September 2010

outside of class. It has made me feel connected to the college in

29


Alumni Council Corner

Many alumni give back to the CIA by hosting gatherings that bring alumni together to support each other and their alma mater. These events always prove to be fun, lively, and, of course, delicious! Here are just a few of the most recent events hosted by our generous alumni. This past March, members of the Alumni Council headed down to San Antonio, TX to participate in the inaugural Cocina de Las Américas Paella Cook-off. This wonderful event was the brainchild of Johnny Hernandez ’89, who wanted to give back to his local community and his alma mater. As he does every year, Michael Garbin ’76 hosted the alumni reception during the NRA meeting weekend in Chicago. Susan Roth ’79 threw a “Party in PA,” prepared and presented by her culinary students at Northampton Community College. In June, Dale Miller ’79 hosted the always-successful Cor/CIA Food, Wine, and Golf Event in Albany, NY, to raise money for student scholarships. David Miguel ’78 hosted his seventh annual Alumni Across America event at the Westerly Yacht Club in Westerly, RI to support the CIA Alumni Scholarship Fund. And, we celebrated our first alumni gathering at the Greystone campus with an afternoon of Coals, Cabs, and Confections—an interactive meal with wine tasting and chocolate delights. Come September 24–25 we will be hosting Alumni Homecoming 2010 at the Hyde Park campus. We hope you to see you there. As always, the Council is looking for ways to support and connect alumni to one another and the CIA. If you have an idea for an event, whether it’s an after-work mixer, a networking opportunity, or a scholarship dinner, please let us know. We can help transform your idea into a reality! Want to get involved? Please contact the Alumni Relations office at 845-451-1401 or alumni@culinary.edu. You Make Us Better! Sincerely, Waldy Malouf ’75 (Chair), Waldy@Beaconnyc.com P.S. Be sure to update your information! It’s easy; just visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com or send us an e-mail at alumni@culinary.edu.

’68

Donald P. Campbell is

a place where he spent so much of his

the Careers through Culinary Arts pro-

retired. Randall Tilton has

youth. Armen Sujohn is retired and

gram (C-CAP). Salvatore Parco owns

enjoying life more than ever.

Dine with Sal in Mt. Pleasant, SC.

retired from the Clearwater Country Club in Clearwater, FL.

’71

Kenneth Benson is chef/ owner of Pete Fumo’s Italian

Restaurant in Manor, TX. After 10 years

Steven Capodicasa is senior techno chef at Fir-

menich, a global flavor and fragrance company based in Switzerland with

’75

Rick Paul is owner of the White Light Diner in Frank-

’77

Michael Garahan is foodservice manager at the

fort, KY, which was featured on Food

Job Corps in Carville, LA. For years, he’s

Network’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.

been producing a healthy pecan granola

away, he returned to the restaurant busi-

sold as a fund-raiser for the Ocean Medi-

ness to open Pete Fumo’s.

cal Center, a hospital in New Jersey that

’73

’80

’76

Genevieve Bardwell is owner/baker of Rising Creek

Vincent Colucci is executive

Bakery in Mt. Morris, PA. Timothy

chef for Rome Memorial

McGrath took over the professional

Hospital in Rome NY. He also volunteers

services at Westlake Culinary Institute in

at the Utica Boys and Girls Club with

Westlake Village, CA in March 2010. He

baking and cooking. Vincent is happy

is also chef/owner of his own catering

to have the opportunity to give back to

business and teaches students involved in

cared for his mother during her battle with breast cancer. Check it out at www. chefsformammograms.com. Benjamin Sutton is pleased to announce that his daughter graduated from the CIA in June 2010. He owns Chef Bens Catering in Hiawassee, GA. Raymond Williams is

an office in Princeton, NJ, where he is responsible for developing flavors and menu innovation. He was featured in the Winter 2008/09 edition of Art Culinaire magazine. Peter K. Huber is director of dining services for Aramark at Houston Baptist University. His son Peter is currently studying for his A.O.S. degree at the CIA. John Smigielski works renovating classic old hotels and inns along the coast of Maine. Stephen Worsley is cheffing “for the yachting crowd” in Split, Croatia.

food director/chef at the Newark Senior Center in Newark, DE.

30

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


’81

John Cruse is director of culinary and nutrition services of

Mason General Hospital in Shelton, WA.

’87

Dino Gatto is executive chef

’88

Keith John Wallace is an

for Rao’s Restaurant in New

York City.

He is the president of the Shelton Rotary and father of two sons.

’82

Michael Baskette is a full-time instructor at the

investor and building owner

of South Pointe Country Club in Carson City, PA.

Art Institute of Jacksonville in Florida. He is also an author and private food service consultant. He recently received the World Association of Chefs Societies

’89

George Lamaze has retired.

’90

Nina Bowman-Sekscenski

president and Mrs. obama pose with Joe scully ‘87 (second from right) and his family

(WACS) Educator of the Year Award during their 2010 World Congress in Santiago, Chile. Michael serves as

officer of CBL Path, Inc. in Rye Brook,

The Obama Effect

Education Committee and has helped

NY. Her son Max was born in February

develop and administer several educa-

When businesses in Asheville, NC heard that President and Mrs.

2010. Edward Bujarski is founder of the

tional programs for WACS, including the

Wharton High School Culinary Academy

Train-the-Trainer Program and Culinary

in Tampa, FL. Ed won the 2009 National

to host them. Joe Scully ’87, co-owner of Corner Kitchen, felt the

School Recognition Program. Michelle

Restaurant Association Education Foun-

Elliott is chef-instructor at the Institute of

dation’s Maynard Award for his outstand-

same way. His partner’s wife even went to the lengths of repeatedly

Culinary Education in New York. She was

ing efforts to educate future members of

e-mailing the White House with an invitation to dine. With no answer

nominated as one of the “Top Ten” pastry

the foodservice industry.

from Washington, they thought all hope was lost.

special projects manager for the WACS

is corporate compliance

chefs of 2010 by Dessert Professional online magazine.

’83

Jesse Bartyzal is chef/owner of B&B Chefs Endeavors, a

’94

Joseph Bianchi is owner/ executive chef of Cucina

Bianchi Personal Chef Service in New Jersey. Adolfo Veronese is chef/owner

consulting firm in Medford, OR. He took

of LaForchetta Catering in San Francisco,

the first-place gold medal at the Oregon

CA. His son Nino is three years old.

state crab competition and a silver medal at the Oregon Albacore Tuna competition. Dan Palsi is executive chef at the Manasquan River Golf Club in Brielle, NJ. In May 2010, he was an honorary guest speaker at the Brookdale Community College commencement ceremony in Lincroft, NJ.

’84

On the Tuesday before the President’s scheduled visit, a group of eight 20-somethings eating in the upstairs dining room seemed inordinately interested in the restaurant, the chef, and the building. The server answered their questions and thought no more about it. On Thursday, Corner Kitchen received a call from a fellow who wanted to rent the upstairs dining room on Saturday night so he could propose to his

’95

David Daniel is executive chef at Tallahassee Memo-

rial HealthCare, which is operated by

girlfriend. He said it would be a party of six. It seemed an odd idea to propose in front of friends, but hey, a reservation was a reservation.

Sodexo, in Tallahassee, FL. Christopher

Come Saturday night, Joe and his family were across town having

Heywood is vice president for travel and

dinner at another restaurant when they got the call—“the President

tourism public relations for NYC & Company. He was married in March 2010.

and Mrs. Obama are here with two other couples for dinner.” Joe and

David Kaufman is chef/owner of the

his family raced back to Corner Kitchen, passed through the Secret

Mark Fritchie is senior sales

newly opened Zombie Doughnut Café in

associate for BakeMark, USA

Albuquerque, NM.

Service gauntlet, and made it inside. The restaurant was full, the

in Reno, NV. He also enjoys running his ice carving business, Ice on Occasion. He lives with his two children, David and Maxwell.

’86

Obama were coming to town for a weekend, they all hoped to be able

’96

Obamas were upstairs, two Secret Service agents (one a chef/agent)

Jimmy Mohammed is

were in the kitchen carefully watching the President’s meal being

executive chef for CRAVE

prepared, and other agents were peppered throughout the restaurant.

restaurants in Orlando, FL. Christopher Whitaker is chef/owner of Frenchman

When the President’s party emerged after dinner, they took the time

David Coontz is director

Bay Restaurant Group in Maine. He

of dining services/executive

recently married and has an 11-year-old

for pictures; shook the hands of every server, busser, and cook; and

chef for Rappahannock Westminster-

daughter.

Canterbury, Inc. assisted living facility in Irvington, VA. He received the Chef of the Year award from his ACF Chapter. Daniel Kubanet is vice president for business development at Trusthouse

even joked around with some of the remaining patrons. Turns out that those eight diners on Tuesday night were really the

’97

Eric A. Frost is executive sous chef for The Litchfield

Saltwater Grille in Litchfield, CT.

Services Group in Charlotte, NC.

President’s advance team checking to see if the restaurant passed muster. It was a thrill of a lifetime for Joe, his family, and the restaurant staff. And they are still feeling the Obama effect with increased sales and much fame!

mise en place no.53, September 2010

31


CIA Symmetry There’s a perfect CIA

’98

Geoffrey Tracy is

vilion in Los Angeles, CA. In 2008

owner of Chef Geoff’s,

Brandi was diagnosed with cancer.

which will be celebrating its 10th

Her recovery and current clean bill

symmetry to this story

anniversary this year. Chef Tracy

of health have inspired her to begin

about Jennifer Shen ’06

also co-owns the management com-

writing a book about her journey.

pany 2 tee, LLC operating Hank’s

Chester Watson is sous chef for

Tavern & Eats.

Quince in San Francisco, CA.

’99

’06

and Benjamin Seto ’06. They met and started dating in their junior year at the Collins College for

Marc Dunham is chef de cuisine at The

Ranchers Club in the Atherton

cently promoted to sous

chef at The American Club Hong

Hotel at the School of Hotel and

Kong, in Hong Kong, SAR, China.

Restaurant Administration, in the

She is enjoying every minute of her

College of Human Environmental

time in Asia. Stephen Forsyth has

Polytechnic University

Sciences at Oklahoma State Uni-

accepted a position as development

(Cal Poly) in Pomona, CA.

versity in Stillwater, OK. He was

chef in the U.S. Army’s Family and

invited to cook at the James Beard

Morale, Welfare and Recreation

House in July 2010.

Command. He’s training at the

Hospitality Management at the California State

Their instructor at Cal

Hale Koa Hotel in Honolulu as a

Poly, Scott Rudolph, is a 1997 CIA graduate and jen shen ‘06 and ben seto ‘06 on their wedding day

Beth Cosgrove was re-

naturally a great supporter of the college’s programs.

He encouraged the pair to continue their studies at the CIA. “Once we had seen the facilities and curriculum, our biggest problem was figuring out which CIA campus to enroll at,” said Ben. Deciding they loved the Napa Valley, they enrolled at Greystone—Jen in the Baking and Pastry Arts Certificate Program

’01

Melvin (Mel) Carter is co-owner of Blue Hill

Tavern, named one of the 50 Best Restaurants in the March 2010 edition of Baltimore magazine.

Beverly Hills. Ben landed a job at the Silverton/Batali/Bastianich, Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. When marriage plans were being made, it seemed right that they return to the Collins campus and have Chef Rudolph, with the help of

’02

Mark Danziger is chef/owner of Danziger

Catering in San Francisco, CA.

Michael Brown is a master’s degree

studying under CIA alumni Dr. Richard Ghiselli ’81 and Dr. Carl Behnke ’85. He will graduate with a degree in hospitality and tourism management. One day,

’03

Michael hopes to return to the CIA

a class in Venetian

to teach. Lynnsey M. Ramos is

Carnivale sugarpaste at the Cake

pastry cook for The Ritz-Carlton in

Decorating with the Masters at

Dana Point, CA.

the Wyndham Oceanfront Hotel. Matthew Hiebsch is sous chef for Garces Restaurant Group in

menu and prepped for it!

Philadelphia, PA.

Singapore. Jen will continue working with Sherry Yard to open CUT Singapore,

’07

Steven Ciccone taught

19 eager students, create their nuptial meal. Of course, the couple designed their

Now they are about to embark on a whole new adventure as they head for

ment of Defense.

candidate at Purdue University

and Ben in the Accelerated Culinary Arts Certificate Program (ACAP). After graduation, Jen took a job with Sherry Yard ’91 at Wolfgang Puck’s CUT

civilian employee of the Depart-

’08

Doug Goettsch has been promoted from

manager of culinary services to national account executive with

’04

Rachel Hollander is

Hawkeye Foodservice Inc, in

manager at Hyde Park

Coralville, IA. Nicholas Jones is

and Ben will be helping to open Pizzeria Mozza Singapore.

Grill in Columbus, OH. She mar-

coordinator for culinary learning

ried in February 2010 in Columbus.

at Northwest Arkansas Commu-

Fully prepared after their experiences at the CIA and beyond, they are

Ian Purdy is sous chef at Carmen

nity College in Bentonville, AR.

Anthony Restaurant in Waterbury,

Daniella Vanoni is pastry chef for

CT. He recently got married and

Trattoria Aroma in Buffalo, NY. She

has two sons, Dean and Cole.

is a sponsor of the “Sweet Charity

looking forward to the change. “We anticipate that sourcing product, menu development, and training will be great challenges in Singapore—not to mention

Event” to benefit the food bank of

the culture shock,” explained Jen. “The big adjustment will be general lifestyle and work environment. But we are excited, too! It’s really a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We are honored and proud to be a part of two great projects overseas.” The kind of perfect symmetry we find in Jen and Ben’s story is one we’ve heard many times from our alumni. Relationships forged at the CIA cast a web of ever-broadening connections that make it possible for our alumni to have unique experiences around the globe.

32

’05

Marisa Edelstein is baker for the Aria Hotel

and Casino in Las Vegas, NV. Eric A. Schappert is general manager/ chef for Metz and Associates, located at Johnson Technical

western New York. She was recently featured in BuffaloRising.com.

’09

Nick Jones has opened Ginnie’s Place at the

Center for Nonprofits at St. Mary’s

College in Scranton, PA. Brandi

in Rogers, AK. He will supervise

Stevens is restaurant manager at

students pursuing degrees in culi-

Cafe Nordstrom in the Westside Pa-

nary arts and hospitality.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Baker’s Choice

all this he is able to

How does a candidate for a CIA culinary arts degree end up as baking center manager at Lesaffre Yeast Corporation—makers of SAF and Red Star brand yeast and dough conditioners? He takes his externship in the

mimic each customer’s baking environment and processes.

bakeshop of the Bedford Village Inn in New Hampshire and falls in love

Problem solving is at

with baking. Then he returns to complete his degree and immediately

the heart of Mark’s job,

finds himself in Chef Rich Coppedge’s bread class for culinary students.

and focusing on shifting

He couldn’t fight it—Mark Miller ’96 was sold, and chose baking as

industry trends keeps

his career.

everything fresh and

After graduation, Mark went to work at the in-house bakery of the American Club in Kohler, WI. While there he met CIA extern Kathy Mueller ’00. A romance began that is still going on. Mark’s move to Chicago to work pastry at the Ritz-Carlton and then at the Midwest Commissary Bake House for Whole Foods helped him flesh out his experience in front of the oven. About seven years ago, Mark took the job he now has at Lesaffre/Red Star in Milwaukee, WI. “I just love my job,” he explained. “I do a lot of controlled and test baking, and I get to work with a lot of different customers, products, and baking processes. Let’s say a customer wants to expand their bakery line to include frozen dough. That requires ingredient and formula modifications. We offer those ingredients and can help them make those formula and process changes. We have yeast that is specifically designed to perform better in frozen dough, something they may not have been aware of. We can run tests for them on our own, or they can come to our baking center to work with us.” Mark works in a dream bakeshop. It’s fully equipped with different kinds of mixers, proofers, and ovens, as well as lab equipment that measures yeast fermentation, flour quality, and enzyme activity. With

interesting. For example, the baking industry is looking to “clean their labels,” according to Mark. They want more natural ingredients, including dough conditioners, to use in

mark and kathy at his bakeshop

commercial baking. Mark works with them to incorporate the newer, cleaner stabilizers into their products. He also helps companies who are involved in reducing sodium in their products to use other yeast-based alternatives to maintain the flavor of salt. Unless Mark is in the middle of a project that is time-sensitive—which does happen when working with yeast products—he is grateful that he has time for his other passions. He loves playing golf, working in his vegetable garden, cooking at home, and, of course, spending time with Kathy—who has left foodservice to work in the software arena. One doesn’t need more proof to realize that this baker has made all the right choices!

B-Block Baby Paul Fucello and Erica (Halstead-Johnson) Fucello ’03 are proud to announce the birth of their first child, Caroline Jean, on July 28, 2009. With two parents who met and fell in love at the CIA during B Block, it’s only fitting that we see Caroline sleeping peacefully atop some culinary classics while “wearing” a toque and apron. As for mom and dad…after seven years of working as sous chef and executive chef in a number of places, Paul recently returned to work at his CIA externship site, The Seaware Country Club in Hewlett Harbor, NY. Erica, no doubt, has her hands full at home training a future CIA alumna!

a future chef, learning by osmosis!

33


the resort, I check in with the restaurants and assist the outlet managers. In the afternoon there are meetings with internal management and wine suppliers as well as visiting professionals. During slower months, I conduct food and wine training sessions for staff. I’ll often show guests around the Summer Palace or host a private wine tasting tailored to the client’s tastes and interests. In the evening, I look after the restaurants and bar, recommend beverages, assist with service, and occasionally entertain special guests and media. At the end of the night, I either head downtown with friends to enjoy Beijing’s nightlife or home to catch up on my sleep! Every quarter I make a regional trip to other Aman properties in China, Thailand, Indonesia, and India to conduct beverage training and support with operations. It’s a great opportunity to travel. How do the Chinese view wine? Wine has never been part of daily life for the Chinese people. Even a moderately priced bottle of imported wine may cost the average worker crystal edgar ‘02 loves meeting the people of beijing

an entire month’s salary. Many Chinese purchase wine based on the label—wines from Bordeaux or with “Château” on the label are usually

Beijing Bliss

the most popular. But for those who are not interested in wine or prefer

Crystal Edgar ’02 is cellar master at Aman at Summer Palace in Beijing, China. More and more CIA grads are venturing to Asia to develop their culinary skills and absorb a new culture. Here, Crystal answered some of our questions about living and working in Beijing. How do you find living in such a different culture? The best thing about living in a different culture is the adventure. I love foreign languages and my efforts to learn Chinese have not only aided me in day-to-day tasks but also helped me build trust with the hotel staff and local clientele. Of course, I love the food adventures. There are so many different styles of cuisine in China—just not enough time to sample everything! The only downside of living abroad is missing my family. Describe your typical day.

something fast and cheap, the local beer is inexpensive and available. “Baijiu” or “white spirit”—generally 80 to 120 proof—is also popular among the “sophisticated” social and business crowds. It is made of sorghum, wheat, barley, glutinous rice, and millet. The flavor is strong and, to me, offensive. It is served in shot glasses designed for toasting colleagues, usually during business dinners. Of course, there are knowledgeable wine drinkers; however, they are in the minority. That’s where I come in! How would you describe yourself and your approach to your career? I believe one of the keys to success in any industry is passion. If someone were to ask me mine, I’d have to say that people, culture, travel, and food and beverage would be at the top. I am so fortunate to have a job that offers all of these joys; it brings out the best in me and allows me to share my knowledge and experience with others.

On my way to work at the Summer Palace I grab my favorite Chinese snack from a street vendor. Jianbing is fried egg with chili and garlic paste, chopped cilantro, and scallions wrapped in a mung bean crêpe. Once at

In Memoriam

34

Robert Holcomb ’56

Ronnie G. Mullins ’68

Scott Reny ’88

David B. Sellers, Jr. ’96

Smith Forbes ’57

Charles L. Midura ’70

Michael Dunn ’90

Scott Jaffe ’97

William Duffy ’60

Robert J. Craig ’72

Mary Frances Goodman ’90

Teejay Fountain ’03

Arthur Thayer ’63

James F. Simmons ’84

Karen Vera Strand ’93

James Handy ’05

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


AND THE WINNER IS… Wow! What a response. So many of you sent in great captions for this picture. But it was James L. Miller ’76 whose caption won him free admission to this year’s Alumni Homecoming on September 24–25,

“OK. Now tell me again, just what you were doing before the explosion?”

2010. We look forward to seeing James and the rest of you there!

holiday menu mishap contest Win a soft, cozy CIA fleece blanket to keep you warm on cold winter nights. It’s easy! Just share your favorite or zaniest Holiday Menu Mishap story with us in 100 words or less. DEADLINE: October 15, 2010! Post your story online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com or send it to: The Culinary Institute of America, Alumni Relations Office, 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY 12538

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The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

LAST CHANCE to register! T

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Sept urday t a S y&

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• Relish Friday’s Decades Dinner • Enjoy a BBQ and Ice Cream Creation Station • Take in Panels and Speakers • Laugh, Learn, Dine, and Network

Register now at www.ciaalumninetwork.com or call us at 845-451-1401. Hope to see you there! Alumni Relations Admissions 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 ciaalumninetwork.com

Advancement 845-905-4275 ciagiving.org

CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaprochef.com

General Information 845-452-9600

mise en place issue 53 Keys to Café Success  

Alumni magazine of the Culinary Institute of America