mise en place issue 52 The Art of Spices

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Huajiao: The Secret to Sichuan Cuisine By Shirley Cheng, with Dr. Chris Loss ’93

Huajiao is the Chinese word for what is more commonly known as the “Sichuan peppercorn.” It translates literally to flower (hua) pepper (jiao). This spice, which has an intense aroma and very unique flavor, is integral to Sichuan cuisine, and is used by millions of Chinese every day. However, this spice, and its strong connections to Sichuan culinary heritage, is not well known outside of China. To better understand the culinary uses of huajiao, its cultural significance in China, and potential applications in the American foodservice industry, we conducted a research project that was sponsored through the Menu Research and Flavor Discovery Institute (MRFDI) program at the CIA. By combining culinary and food science perspectives, we carefully documented the cultivation and production of huajiao, and gained new insight into its historical and culinary significance. I traveled to the beautiful Sichuan province of China; interviewed farmers, chefs, and huajiao scholars, and collected traditional recipes and many authentic spice samples. On my return, we conducted sensory tests using American consumers and chefs, revealing the truly unique sensory properties of huajiao. What follows are some of the highlights from this flavor exploration to Sichuan, and a taste of our research results.

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