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No. 52, June 2010

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

The Art of Spices


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Huajiao: The Secret to Sichuan Cuisine A journey to China

11 A Symphony of Spice

Learn about the magic of Indian cuisine

14 Bocuse d’Or

CIA hosts world-class competition

17 Serious About Spices

A peek behind the doors of Le Sanctuaire


14 17 18 Across the Plaza

2010 Augie Awards | Following the Presidential Trail Faculty Amusements | CIA Students Making Memories

24 Education for Life

Book Shelf | Outdoor Herbal Classrooms | Career Changers…Changed Lives | WOHF Takes on Big Issues

29 Gifts at Work

A Perfect Blend: McCormick and the CIA Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

32 Class Notes

Class Notes | In Memoriam


Growing up, I had a wary relationship with herbs and spices. Oh, I was comfortable enough with things like garlic powder, onion salt, oregano, paprika, and black pepper. But I was suspicious of unfamiliar spices. I’d been told that if you failed to remove the dreaded bay leaf after cooking you could choke to death while eating it. Mace was an enigmatic spice used judiciously for purposes that still remain a mystery to me. Star anise, while beautiful, always left me baffled about what to actually do with it once I got it out of the jar. And clove was the equivalent of a spicy lethal weapon. After all, it was sharp enough to pierce the rind of an orange.

mise en place® No. 52, June 2010 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing Writers Shirley Cheng Phillip Crispo Dr. Chris Loss ’93 Andrea Morris

Like most Americans, my palate and culinary awareness have greatly improved

Jennifer O’Neill

over the years, and the once unfamiliar and daunting cumin, fennel seed,

Felicia Zammit

cayenne pepper, and turmeric have become some of my most cherished culinary comforts. So it was with this open and confident mindset that I accepted the

Editorial Board

request by Chef Shirley Cheng and Dr. Chris Loss to participate in their

Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Chet Koulik Francisco Migoya

Our first innocuous-looking cucumber amuse bouche packed a Sichuan

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

peppercorn electrical punch that left all our mouths, tongues, and throats

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Tama Murphy

tingling and then numb. A guarded look appeared in the eyes of many

Brad Barnes ’87

participants as they asked questions like “How long does this feeling last?” and

Sue Cussen

Anthony Nogales ’88

Sichuan peppercorn sensory focus group—a mix of staff and faculty members who gathered to taste dishes prepared by Chef Cheng and share their experience.

“Does your throat close up from this?” I even had a momentary flashback to my bay leaf anxieties of the past. But, courage and experience helped me begin to enjoy the spicy revelation known as the Sichuan peppercorn. Tasting small amounts of the proffered dishes, I discovered the different treatments and taste

Ron DeSantis ’81

Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Jen Stack ’03

Heather Kolakowski ’02

sensations of the foreign spice. I began to accept the possibility that one day my tentative tolerance of this unique spice would become full-fledged acceptance. This mise en place will take you on the road with Chef Cheng as she explores the history, geography, and significance of the peppercorn in Sichuan cuisine. Chef Phillip Crispo shares his understanding and love of Indian cuisine and spices. And one of our students, Andrea Morris, writes about her visit to Le Sanctuaire, an exclusive spice store in San Francisco, CA. Enjoy reading this spicy edition. Nancy Cocola, Editor

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students. Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved. Photography: Shirley Cheng, Keith Ferris, Andrea Morris, John Reese, Anne Rettig

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able to participate in continuing education,

The Dream Continues/ El Sueño Continúa

industry research services, and conferences at the new campus. Construction is in full

undergoing expansion. Out at Greystone,

Soooo Hot!

a build-out of the first floor. There you’ll

The History Channel came to Hyde Park

Marketplace, which now includes a Flavor

to visit the FDR Library or Vanderbilt Mansion. The producers wanted a CIA expert to provide insight into things hot and spicy like chilies, horseradish, and wasabi, for an episode of its popular show Modern Marvels. Our resident spicy food expert, Associate Professor in Culinary Arts Bill Phillips ’88, spoke at length about the history of spices and how they are used today. He even made some It was just two years ago that the CIA

predictions about the future of fiery foods.

opened its third campus in San Antonio,

The episode, Modern Marvels “Hot & Spicy,”

TX. Since then, we have graduated more

aired in February 2010.

culinary arts certificate program, held two “Latin Flavors, American Kitchens” symposiums, provided a variety of professional development programs focused on Latin cuisine, and expanded our food enthusiast Boot Camps and Weekends at the CIA classes to our campus in the Alamo City.

Tasty Awards It’s only fitting that the college’s CIA Culinary Intelligence Web site won an award called The Tasty. It’s true. Our monthly recipe video series won a 2010 Tasty Award in the “Best Food

the new Chocolate Laboratory is part of find the newly designed Spice Island Bar and oleoteca, and Viking Range teaching kitchens. The 675-square-foot Chocolate Laboratory was designed with optimal conditions for confectionery work in mind. It has temperature and humidity controls, all-marble tables, no bright lights, and tall ceilings. It is a self-contained room, ensuring that no other cooking odors impact the chocolates and other confections. Cutting-edge equipment will provide students with the means to create chocolates of the highest quality using both traditional and experimental techniques. The Chocolate Laboratory will be used for a three-week curriculum in chocolate and other confectionery work for A.O.S. students, for chocolate-related weekend classes for enthusiasts, and to create Greystone Chocolates for sale in the Marketplace.

Program–Web” category. The episode, featuring Associate Professor in Culinary

Believe it or not, all this was accomplished

Arts Scott Swartz, provides a step-by-

in a 5,000-square-foot facility with just

step demonstration on the preparation

one kitchen. Can you imagine what’s in

of Eggs Benedict. Produced in-house by

store for our students when we move into

CIA Communications Manager Virginia

our new building? We’ll soon have four

Muré, the series joins the New York Emmy

state-of-the-art kitchens, a bakeshop, an

Award-winning series Around the World

outdoor kitchen, and a demonstration

in 80 Dishes—created in collaboration

theater. Over time, the culinary arts

with Epicurious.com. Check out these

certificate program will be expanded to

two exciting recipe-filled sites and enjoy

accommodate more than 150 students. As

watching your own CIA chef-instructors

many as 1,500 professionals a year will be

create great dishes.

mise en place no.52, June 2010

San Antonio is not the only CIA campus

swing. We’ll keep you posted.

last December, but the crew wasn’t in town

than 150 students from our 30-week

Greystone PLUS

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Huajiao: The Secret to Sichuan Cuisine By Shirley Cheng, with Dr. Chris Loss ’93

Huajiao is the Chinese word for what is more commonly known as the “Sichuan peppercorn.” It translates literally to flower (hua) pepper (jiao). This spice, which has an intense aroma and very unique flavor, is integral to Sichuan cuisine, and is used by millions of Chinese every day. However, this spice, and its strong connections to Sichuan culinary heritage, is not well known outside of China. To better understand the culinary uses of huajiao, its cultural significance in China, and potential applications in the American foodservice industry, we conducted a research project that was sponsored through the Menu Research and Flavor Discovery Institute (MRFDI) program at the CIA. By combining culinary and food science perspectives, we carefully documented the cultivation and production of huajiao, and gained new insight into its historical and culinary significance. I traveled to the beautiful Sichuan province of China; interviewed farmers, chefs, and huajiao scholars, and collected traditional recipes and many authentic spice samples. On my return, we conducted sensory tests using American consumers and chefs, revealing the truly unique sensory properties of huajiao. What follows are some of the highlights from this flavor exploration to Sichuan, and a taste of our research results.

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Varieties and Flavors of Huajiao

Mountains. Qingxi is one of the small towns located in the valley of

There are two types or species of huajiao grown in China: a red

orchard, Mr. Wenjin Shi, director of the agricultural department in

variety and green variety. The red is more common, and its small

the town of Quingxi, explains why huajiao from Qingxi is considered

fresh granule peppercorns look like pretty red flowers hanging

the best quality. “Here at 5,400 feet above sea level, we exceed the

from the surprisingly barbed branches of the huajiao shrub. The

minimum elevation for optimal huajiao growth, which is 3,000

peppercorns are tiny in size—only .5 cm in diameter, and it is the outer

feet. Plus, winter here is very cold and very good for huajiao plant

husks of the huajiao that have unique and intense flavor properties.

hibernation. The land, air, and temperature are just right, and there

Huajiao is a member of the rutaceae family, which includes oranges,

is no pollution. Today, about 500 acres are cultivated with huajiao,

lemons, and other citrus. Much like those citrus fruits, the plant has

which produce over 100 tons of fresh huajiao a year.” Although it can

oil-cell lumps that appear on the husk of the ripened fruit, providing

be produced throughout the country, it is the huajiao produced in

citrus, pine, and tea-like aromas commonly associated with huajiao.

Sichuan that is considered to have the best flavor quality. For

Within the oils of the husk there is also a unique flavor compound

this reason, huajiao is referred to directly as “chuan jiao” as in

called “spilanshool” that creates an intense numbing or “buzzing”

Sichuan jiao.

sensation on the tongue—which is an essential component to the flavor profile of Sichuan cuisine.

Huajiao’s Past

Huajiao expert Professor Meng Ye, from the Sichuan Agricultural

Huajiao has been used in China for more than 2,000 years. Ms. Li

University, explained that there are about 18 types of huajiao in

Du, director of research and development of Sichuan cuisine at the

Sichuan and a total of 40 throughout China. The most common

Sichuan Culinary Institute in Chengdu, proudly explains that China

huajiao has green leaves, red husks, yellow inner-peel, and black seeds

is considered the birthplace of huajiao. As far back as 2,200 years

inside. It looks like a pretty flower. In the past 10 years, a new green

ago, one of the earliest books of poetry published in China, ShiJing,

variety has emerged called qing huajiao. Green huajiao is the same

includes a poem entitled “JiaoLiao” that refers to huajiao and its

size as the red variety but is dark green inside and out. Many people

shape. The first uses of huajiao were not as a flavoring ingredient

mistakenly think that the green huajiao is simply an unripe regular

but as a coating for houses! Mixed with mud to create a kind of

huajiao, but it is a different species entirely. Professor Ye explained

paint, houses coated with the huajiao gave off a strong aroma.

that while red huajiao plants like dry soil and hot temperatures, the

It was believed that this provided good luck to the homeowner

green huajiao requires rich soil and more moisture in order to flourish.

by deterring evil. It is also noted that the huajiao seeds were

Green huajiao has become a popular spice on the culinary stage, in

treasured as symbols of fertility.

part because its numbing quality is much lighter than the red huajiao. This is an interesting indicator of the evolving flavor preferences of the Chinese people.

Mr. Guanghua Shi, poet and author of My Sichuan Culinary Memory, has spent a great deal of his time researching the history of Sichuan cuisine. He

A cousin to green huajiao is the newly popular tenjiao, which is used

explained that archeologists found huajiao present

to create flavored oil. Farm owner Li Jianfeng of Green Land Tenjiao

in sites that are thousands of years old; evidence

Farm in Mount Emei recounted that when he was young, tenjiao grew

that huajiao was actively used in ceremonial and

wild in the backyard. Every year, he would pick the wild peppers

religious offerings. The culinary uses for huajiao

and put them in a bamboo basket, to sell at the local market for five

emerged during the Qin (221 B.C.–206 B.C.),

yuan per pound. As the Sichuan restaurant industry grew both locally

Han (206 B.C.–9 A.D.), and Xin Dynasties

and abroad, the demand for tenjiao increased quickly, and Jianfeng

(9 A.D.–23 A.D). Menus from the Tang (618

found that he could sell it for 30 yuan per pound. Now he owns 165

A.D.–907 A.D.) and Song (960 A.D.–1279

profitable acres. Most fresh tenjiao are refrigerated right after harvest

A.D.) Dynasties also document its

and transported to oil factories that manufacture tenjiao-infused

culinary uses.

rapeseed oil. It is a favored seasoning for people in Sichuan and almost every restaurant and supermarket carries it.

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those mountains that is famous for its huajiao. Standing in a huajiao

However, there was a period in China’s culinary history when huajiao’s

Sichuan Province—Huajiao’s Home

popularity and consumption

Hanyuan county is 158 miles southwest of Chengdu, the capital of

the country. During the Yuan

Sichuan, and is located between the Nibashan and Daliangshan

Dynasty (1271–1368 A.D.), the

diminished dramatically throughout

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Mongolians invaded China.

chili peppers. Combined, Ma and La produce a truly complementary

They immediately began to

combination: La provides the spicy heat and Ma provides the

dictate their cultural, religious, and social mores to the people of their newly conquered land. As followers of Buddhism, the Mongols frowned upon eating aphrodisiac-like stimulants such as garlic, chives, and huajiao. To eat huajiao was to commit a crime, so naturally its consumption declined. By the end of the Ming Dynasty (1368– 1644 A.D.) the use of huajiao throughout most of China had completely stopped.

Huajiao’s Rebirth Oddly, it was an item brought great distances from a foreign shore that gave new life to the lost huajiao. Arriving in the seaports of Fujian province, the chili pepper from South America slowly made its way inland to Sichuan—a culinary journey that took almost 50 years. The local people responded enthusiastically to the hot flavor profile of chilis, and began combining it with huajiao. As it turns out, it was a perfect marriage. Some believe you can’t find a better match on the planet

numbing/cooling sensation. As a diner progresses through a meal prepared with chili and huajiao, waves of heating, numbing, and cooling repeat themselves and create a unique flavor experience. Certified Master Chef Ziyu Peng, the secretary general of Chengdu Culinary Association, says that although Sichuan cuisine is made up of hundreds of dishes that embrace many tastes and flavors, the most unique contribution is the taste of Ma from huajiao. Many other regional cuisines in China, such as those from Hunan, Guizhou, and Yunan provinces, use chili; however, Sichuan’s cuisine is the only one to incorporate the soothing notes of huajiao. Without huajiao, Sichuan food would be much like that of its provincial neighbors. Executive Chef Li Yuwei, owner of Shaocheng Restaurant in Chengdu, pointed out that huajiao powder, huajiao-flavored oil, and whole huajiao is an essential seasoning used every day in his restaurant. He purchases it as often as every couple of days. Mr. Yiyan Bao, a Certified Master Chef and director of continuing education at the Sichuan Culinary Institute, revealed the top five Sichuan dishes that use huajiao. They include Ma Po Tofu, Water-boiled Pork (see p.10), Huajiao Chicken, Jiaoma Chicken, and Mala Fish.

Huajiao is Good Medicine Professor Jian Wang, an expert on Chinese pharmaceuticals from the Chinese Medical University at Chengdu, explained that huajiao

than huajiao and chili pepper. The fiery heat of the chili

has been broadly used in traditional Chinese medicine. In one of the

complemented the calming or numbing effect of the huajiao.

earliest Chinese books on agriculture and medicinal plants, Shen Nong

This foreign chili pepper is credited with saving huajiao from complete culinary extinction. Though inhabitants of other

Ben Cao Jing, huajiao is described as being good for removing “evil qi” from a person’s body. Professor Wang also indicated that huajiao

provinces like Hunan and Jiangxi actually consume spicier

has a warm nature and its medical effect is to warm the spleen and

food than people of Sichuan, it is the fusion of huajiao and chili

stomach, dispel colds, and stop pain. Huajiao is also used as part

pepper that gives Sichuan cuisine its unique spicy reputation.

of the prescription against roundworms. It works by numbing the

Huajiao adds to the richness of the chili pepper, creating a

roundworm, enabling the other components of the prescription to kill

spicy flavor that is more full-bodied. This combination is

it. One of the most common uses of medicinal huajiao is to relieve the

called “MaLa.”

itch of Hong Kong foot—the equivalent of our athlete’s foot!

MaLa—The Essence of Sichuan Cuisine

Upon my return from China, Chris Loss and I conducted focus

Ma stands for the numbing or tingling sensation in the mouth,

different flavor profiles that huajiao lends to traditional Sichuan dishes

lips, and tongue that results from the naturally present chemical compound known as “sanshool” found in the oils of the huajiao husks. Some people liken the Ma sensation like that of a lowvoltage, electronically soothing pulse. At first it can shock the mouth, but it soon leaves a feeling of mild numbness, which can soothe, calm, and even “super cool.” La represents a burning, hot, and spicy sensation, coming from the capsaicin of the

mise en place no.52, June 2010

groups with American consumers on traditional Sichuan dishes. The comments from the group participants revealed that the distinctly are essentially unknown in the United States. However, carefully designed hedonic (like vs. dislike scale) sensory tests, using a familiar food like chicken broth and noodles seasoned with huajiao oil, demonstrated that acceptance of the huajiao flavor profile amongst America consumers is possible. I was delighted to learn that the spice I have used and enjoyed for so long has the potential to reveal its special qualities to the American palate. To that end, I’ve included a recipe of a classic Sichuan dish. Enjoy!

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Water-boiled Pork The name of this Sichuan dish sometimes

Combine rice wine, soy sauce, and cornstarch; mix well. Slice pork into thin pieces and

fools people into thinking it will be bland—rest

add to marinade mixture. Mix well, then set aside.

assured, it’s hot, spicy, and delicious!

Heat one tablespoon of oil in a sauté pan. Add Sichuan peppercorns and dried chilis. Cook

Makes 4 servings

until chilis turn dark red (not black). Remove and cool. Place cooled chili and Sichuan

Preparation time: 20 minutes

peppercorn mixture on a cutting board. Use the side of your knife blade to smash then

Marinade 2 teaspoons rice wine

chop mixture into fine pieces. Set aside. Wash or rinse vegetables, then cut into three-inch lengths. Heat oil in a wok. Add scallions

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

then vegetables and stir-fry for 20 seconds over high heat. Remove to a large shallow bowl.

3 tablespoons cornstarch

Heat two tablespoons of oil in a wok. Add ginger, scallions, and hot chili sauce. Cook

1 pound pork loin

until oil turns red. Add rice wine, soy sauce, and stock. When stock is boiling, add

Garnish

marinated pork. Use a pair of chopsticks or fork to gently stir. As soon as the pork is

1 tablespoon corn oil 2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns ½ cup dried small red chilis

Vegetables ¼ pound Chinese celery ¼ pound Chinese leeks

completely cooked, pour pork with sauce over the cooked vegetables. Sprinkle minced Sichuan peppercorn and chili over pork. Heat up the quarter cup of oil. When oil is lightly smoking, pour oil over the dish. Serve it immediately.

Iconic Sichuan dishes, the form of huajio they incorporate, and their flavor profiles. Name of the dish

Primary flavoring components

Flavor profile

Jiao Ma Shrimp and Green Onions (Served cold)

“Raw” chopped huajiao

Mild, cooling, numbing (Ma only)

Jiao You Cucumber

Huajiao-infused oil

Pronounced numbing after taste (Ma only)

Tengiao Thin-sliced Beef with Bean Sprouts

Tengiao-infused oil + dried tengiao

Very aromatic, citrus, pine notes, some numbing

Water-boiled Pork

Roasted and chopped huajiao and chilis

“Fresh,” savory, salty, very spicy, numbing (MaLa)

Stir-fried Romaine

Whole huajiao

Aromatic, perfumy

¼ pound stem lettuce or Romaine hearts 2 tablespoons corn oil 1 tablespoon scallions, chopped

Pork 2 tablespoons corn oil 1 tablespoon ginger, minced 2 tablespoons scallions, chopped ¼ cup Chinese hot chili sauce 3 tablespoons rice wine 3 tablespoons light soy sauce 2 cups chicken or beef stock

Finishing Touch ¼ cup corn oil Detailed results from this MRFDI-sponsored research project can be found at http://menuscience.ciachef.edu/research. The paper was presented at the Research Chefs Association’s annual conference in March 2010. MRFDI is made possible through the generous support of CIA corporate partners Campbell Soup Company, The Coca Cola Company, and McCormick for Chefs. Shirley Cheng is a CIA professor in culinary arts. Dr. Chris Loss ’93 is chair of the CIA’s Department of Menu Research and Development.

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A Symphony of Spice The Magic of Indian Cuisine By Phillip Crispo

To truly understand a country’s culture, one need not look much further than the foods people eat and the manner in which they are prepared, served, and consumed. As with other countries around the world, food in India is more than just sustenance—it carries a far deeper meaning. Indians strongly believe that you are physically, emotionally, and spiritually what you eat; food can almost be considered a means of providing identity to an individual or group. Food is also instrumental to rituals and traditions, religious beliefs, and the bringing together of the family unit.

mise en place no.52, June 2010

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No country in the world can demonstrate such a complete and unequaled mastery of the use of spices in their food as India. As globalization in the twenty-first century is shrinking our planet, it’s

The North— From Tandoori to Garam Masala

wise to explore the Indian cooking techniques, ingredients, and use

Rich with luxurious ingredients, the north is where you’ll find the

of spices now available to professional chefs. India boasts an infinite

Punjabi and Kashmiri styles of cooking. Often considered to be home

array of spices, seeds, barks, leaves, and roots ready and waiting for

to the “gourmets of Indian cooking,” this area is known for an array of

anyone who’s eager to learn.

sweetmeats and the popular tandoori cooking technique. In tandoori

A Land of Diversity

cooking, which is done at a very high temperature, a large clay oven is used to produce roasted meat dishes as well as breads such as naan and sheermal. The breads are stretched and

At an introductory level, India can be better understood by dividing the country into five regions: north, south, east, west, and central. Consisting of 28 states and seven union territories, and home to more than a billion people, the country has 15 official languages along with hundreds of dialects and minor languages. As religion and food go very much hand-in-hand in India, it is also worth noting that

The tarka method is an excellent example of a flavor development technique that every student of cooking should explore.

there are many religions practiced across this vast nation, from Hindu and Islam to Christianity and Sikhism to small sects such as Animism, which worships gods and spirits.

shaped, then stuck to the inside wall of the oven to bake. Spices in this region are primarily in the form of garam masalas—mixes or blends containing cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, cumin, coriander seeds, green and black cardamom seeds, black peppercorns, cloves, and mace. This is where the fun begins. When using spices, we as chefs often look at them too one-dimensionally; we

simply accept them for what they are and the flavor they can provide. Indian cooks, however, look beyond the “face value” of spices and use

So let’s sample Indian cuisine by studying the nation’s five major

different techniques to dramatically change their flavoring properties

regions and their sophisticated use of spices and ingredients.

and contribution to a dish. The tarka method is an excellent example of a flavor development technique that every student of cooking should explore. It involves using a shallow sauteuse with a small amount of mustard, coconut oil, or ghee (clarified butter). The fat is heated and, when hot, the dried seeds, spices, roots, and bark are added and allowed to pop and spit; immediately after, the spices are added to the dish. Similar to how we finish many western dishes with chopped herbs, this method provides an amazing olfactory experience, along with an unequaled taste sensation that helps set Indian cuisine apart.

The South—Hot, Sweet, and Sour The southern region of India is home primarily to people who practice the Hindu faith. Because of the religion’s teachings on non-violence and respect for animal life, it comes as no surprise that the region’s diet is based mainly on rice and vegetables. Cows are considered sacred in this region and are allowed to roam free in the same way your neighbor’s cat would in the U.S. Beef as well as products from the cow are considered taboo and are not consumed. However, Indian cooks are masters of vegetarian cooking, and meat lovers can go to any good Indian restaurant and not feel they missed out on anything. Along with vegetables and rice, cooks in the south employ the richness and decadent mouthfeel of coconut and coconut milk in their dishes. Cooking fats are replaced with flavorful, aromatic mustard oil and tangy tamarind. A common flavor profile of the south could be described as hot, sweet, and sour. Chilies are used in this region, but in a way that balances them with contrasting ingredients to

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prevent the mouth-scorching effects we tend to associate with Indian

in them. Do you detect the cleverness of the Indian chef when it comes

cuisine. Another flavorful ingredient used extensively in the south is

to balance and palate-entertaining traditions? Hot and cold, sweet and

sambhar powder, which lends a subtle tartness that cuts the richness of

sour…brilliant.

vegetable stews and rice and dal preparations.

The Central Region—India’s Culinary Melting Pot

OK, so here I go…I have to mention curry powder, and yes, it is used in this region. However, curry powders are as unique in India as your Italian grandmother’s Sunday gravy recipes. Curry powder is a masala—a mix, a blend, unique to every cook’s kitchen and not a

Central India is a melting pot of all Indian cuisines and traditions, with a special emphasis on sophisticated techniques and ingredients. In this region, beef and dairy products are

generic blend of stale spices that are pre-ground

consumed. The region is also home to mughlai

and have the taste of old gunpowder. (Do you get the impression I don’t like purchased curry powder?) Great flavor takes time and a little effort, but what in life that’s worth anything doesn’t? Make your own masala; have fun with it. When it comes to spices, one size definitely doesn’t fit all.

Curry powders are as unique in India as your Italian grandmother’s Sunday gravy recipe.

The East—Fish Cookery

cuisine, a culinary and cultural fusion of Indian and Persian foods and ingredients with a lavish use of meat and rice dishes, dried fruits, nuts, cream, yogurt, and aromatic spices. It is truly the haute cuisine of India.

Indian Flavors—Striking the Perfect Note As we often refer to our profession as “the

Here lies an often misunderstood part of Indian cuisine: the mastery of fish cookery. Many species of fish, both fresh

industry of thieves”—stealing ideas from many a source and then

and salt water, are abundant in Bengal and Bihar, which have access

adding our own twist—I encourage you to wholeheartedly dip your

to rivers and seas. In this region, cooks’ knowledge of fish preparation

hands into the pockets of Indian food and culture. Use what you

rivals that of any other culture known for its fish dishes. With India’s

borrow wisely, passionately, and with respect in the creation of your

hot climate, storing and transporting fish while maintaining its

own interpretation of a dish. India’s cuisine, culture, and people

freshness is a challenge, so the consumption of fish is limited to areas

are here! Indian-Americans are a fast-growing group in the United

near where it is caught.

States and as a chef you will at some point in your career need to

The use of spices such as mustard seeds and cumin, combined with the perfume aromas and mouth-pleasing effects of anise and the upfront bitterness of fenugreek, provide a unique and flavorful sauce to accompany the East’s many fish dishes. One seed-and-spice masala blend of the area is the panch phoron, which provides a dynamic

demonstrate a knowledge of and passion for Indian flavors, and an ability to cater to the educated palates of your guests. So put away the pre-ground curry powder, dispel the misconception of Indian cuisine as hot, and educate and tempt others away from the idea that Indian food is just curry.

flavor profile to any fish, vegetable, or lentil dish. Try using the tarka

Phillip Crispo is an assistant professor of culinary arts at the CIA. He holds

method to transform its flavor qualities.

ProChef ® Level III certification from the CIA and a certified executive chef

The West—A Study in Contrasts

credential from the ACF, and is a certified hospitality educator.

Ah, my favorite…I was once asked what my last meal would be and yes, it comes from this region. Before “popping my clogs,” I would gratefully accept a nice lamb vindaloo. Vindaloo was heavily influenced by the Portuguese during their occupation of Goa. The foods of Goa do tend to be spicy and use a considerable amount of coconut, along with yogurt and tamarind paste, to provide relief from the spice. Dishes in western India are cooked for long periods—“low and slow”—allowing every gram of spice to makes its contribution to the symphony of wonderfully rich flavor. There’s no tastier way to cleanse the palate than to enjoy some of the famous fruit ice creams, cold custards, and sharbats—fruit juices blended with yogurt that are so thick you could stand a spoon upright

mise en place no.52, June 2010

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The clanging of cowbells. The waving of homemade signs bedecked with glitter and paint. The raucous shouts and screams of encouragement. The Olympic Winter Games at Vancouver? Nope. To those in the food world, something even better—the Bocuse d’Or competition at the CIA!

the competition kitchens and judges’ table await the start of the competition

For two days the CIA’s Hyde Park campus was transformed into a venue fit for the rock stars of the culinary world. The great Paul Bocuse established the Bocuse d’Or, one of the most coveted culinary prizes, in 1987. It is fostered by the recently established Bocuse d’Or Foundation, which is committed to building a sustainable community of young American chefs who are knowledgeable in their career pursuits and will be lifelong ambassadors of quality and excellence in the world of gastronomy. The winner of the Bocuse d’Or USA will head to Lyon, France for the 2011 Bocuse d’Or International Culinary Competition. The two-day event at the CIA included book signings, panel discussions, cooking demonstrations, and, of course, the actual competition. On Friday, while the 12 contesting chefs and their

2010 Bocuse d’Or USA winner James Kent’s salmon creation

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the eager crowd carefully watches the judges’ reactions as they taste each dish


distinguished panelists share thomas keller’s humor at the “crafting your career” discussion led by dr. ryan

commis prepped in the CIA’s continuing education kitchens, the Student Recreation Center gym was turned into a formal competition site. Four kitchens, scrupulously designed to mimic those the winner will face in Lyon, were erected behind long tables set up for the event judges. In front of that, only a velvet rope would separate the judges from the bleachers filled with frenzied CIA students, foodies, families, and friends. Friday started with a book signing by Thomas Keller of the French Laundry at 11 a.m. Students started lining up at 4 a.m. to ensure that they could speak to him and get him to sign their books. Andrew Friedman, author of Knives at Dawn; David Chang, author of Momofuku; and Charlie Trotter, author of a number of books, were on hand to meet one-on-one with michael clauss ‘95 and CIA student commis marcella ogrodnick plate fish dish

students and sign books as well. A highlight of that first day was Charlie Trotter’s standing-room-only demonstration. He paid homage to the Scottish salmon and American lamb dishes the contestants were to prepare by creating two such dishes while sharing anecdotes about the great Julia Child and Paul Bocuse. He told students that Bocuse had caused a schism in European culinary circles when he sent his only son, Jerome, to The Culinary Institute of America for his culinary education. In the afternoon, a panel of culinary giants gathered for a discussion on the topic “Crafting Your Career.” During the panel, moderated by President Tim Ryan, participants were asked to describe, “in one word,” what it takes to be successful in this field. Each of the chefs had an interesting and different answer. Daniel Boulud–Ambition; Michael Cimarusti ’91–Consistency; Traci Des Jardins–Perseverance; Daniel Humm–Commitment; Thomas Keller–Determination; Walter Manske–Will; Alain Sailhac–Curiosity; Laurent Tourondel– Focus; and Jerome Bocuse ’94–A great smile. Saturday began at 6 a.m. for contestants who were scheduled to reveal their fish platters at precisely 8:20 a.m. Eager CIA students, family, and friends filled the stands early, including the family of alumnus Michael Clauss ’95 of The Daily Planet in Burlington, VT—even though Michael wasn’t due to present his first platter until 4:40 p.m. No matter; they were there for the

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long haul armed with their cowbells, signs, fierce pride, and sense of excitement. Four of the 12 contestants were CIA alumni: Luke Bergman ’02, sous chef at the Modern in New York City; Percy Whatley ’97, executive chef at Ahwahanee, Yosemite National Park; Mark Liberman ’98, executive chef at Roxy’s Black Sheep, West Palm Beach, FL; and, of course, Michael Clauss. Each of them had a CIA student serving as his commis, which added another dimension of excitement for their fellow classmates in attendance. “This event is what the CIA is about,” said Associate Vice President of Business Development Victor

winners james kent and commis tom allen pose with daniel boulud, thomas keller, jerome bocuse, and others

Gielisse. “This is a total community effort and one of our primary goals is to inspire young culinarians to culinary excellence. It’s also wonderful to see how accessible these culinary giants have made themselves to our students.” All of the chefs performed amazingly but only one could win. That person was James Kent of Eleven Madison Park in New York City. He and his commis will practice, practice, practice between now and Lyon in the hopes of bringing home the gold to the U.S. Other winners included Percy Whatley for best meat platter; Jennifer Petrusky, sous chef at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, for best fish platter; and Marcella Ogrodnick, who assisted Michael Clauss, for best commis. percy whatley ‘97 won best meat plate for his lamb dish

James Kent’s winning dishes… Salmon pave with leeks, osetra caviar, and fumé blanc sauce garnished with a roulade of Alaska king crab, cucumber relish, Meyer lemon-chilled mousse, tartare and roe, and pickled heirloom beets with crème fraîche, dill, and black pepper. Bacon-wrapped saddle of lamb with piquillo peppers and Provençal herbs, vol-au-vent of braised leg with sweetbreads and preserved lemon, zucchini with Lynnhaven chèvre frais cheese and mint, and a tart of tomato confit with basil, niçoise olives, and fromage blanc. the bocuse d’or usa awards dinner in farquharson hall

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Serious About Spices By Andrea Morris

Le Sanctuaire creates an aura of mystery. It begins at the store’s front door where there

directly from the farmers

are no markings or indications of what lies within. And then once inside, the showroom

to keep prices down, while

with its minimalist display of books, modern cooking and serving utensils, and

maintaining the highest

lighting make you sure you have found a very unique place. Much of the studio

quality possible. “For years, we

space, which is painted in shades of gray, is designed to showcase the glass jars

got our white pepper from one

of brilliantly colored spices. You find yourself enveloped in a world of deep

seller in Malaysia, but when he

purple beet powder, golden saffron threads, and rich brown vanilla beans—still

stopped using clean, flowing water

plump and moist—as well as powders and pods that almost glow. With the

to rinse away the black skins, we

combination of these exotic ingredients and the myriad rare and unusual

had to switch to another plantation,”

kitchen tools, it is easy to see why this store has become a favorite of so

he remembered as he reached for

many chefs, both local to San Francisco and across the nation.

particularly pungent white peppercorns. With a selection of nine different peppers

Though the store seems perfectly comfortable in its penthouse space

and 15 varieties of salt, it is clear that

overlooking the copper lion-flanked gate to Chinatown, it has only

these two basic seasonings have been

been in this location since 2007. It was originally opened in 2003

elevated to new heights at Le Sanctuaire.

in Santa Monica, where the owner, Jing Tio, had moved from Surabaya, near Indonesia. He came to the U.S. to pursue a

When asked about spices that are gaining a

career in accounting but soon realized that his true passion was

foothold in modern cuisine, Irwandi pointed

cooking. Disillusioned by the spices he found in the grocery

to the row of spice blends, each one mixed

store, Tio began importing them from around the world as

by Jing Tio himself, explaining, “These have

well as creating his own blends such as Madras curry and

become so popular that we are working on a more

Ras el Hanout—which in Arabic means “head of the shop”

accessible retail line.” As for the growing interest in

or the best spice blend a seller can offer. He sold his spices alongside high-end serving pieces and equipment.

more unusual ingredients such as licorice sticks and mace blades, he said that diners on the East Coast tend

Once chefs discovered his premium quality products,

to have more adventurous palates and are comfortable

it became clear that his business would fare better in

layering flavors, while the West Coast is still very focused

a more chef-centric city. Jing Tio chose to relocate to an unmarked storefront in San Francisco, where a visit to the showroom is by appointment only. Despite this self-imposed “seclusion,” fans of Tio’s

on the clean, pure flavors of the main ingredients. However, a few trends have emerged across the country that are of note. More frequently, savory spices have begun to show up in desserts. Le Sanctuaire’s Vadouvan Golden curry powder—

well-edited selection of products keep coming

containing dried onions, garlic, and shallots—is used to flavor a sweet

back. Elizabeth Falkner, chef and owner of

ice cream at Daniel Patterson’s restaurant Coi. Irwandi also foresees

both Citizen Cake and Orson in San Francisco,

salt keeping its high popularity in restaurants and households, because

has been hooked on the store since she first

it is both an accessible flavor and relatively inexpensive.

encountered the spices back in 2007. “The aroma of the cloves, long pepper, and cardamom—I wasn’t even sure if I had ever encountered real spices before!” she enthused as she shopped at the store for Christmas presents. Le Sanctuaire hand-delivers ingredients to many of the area’s top restaurants, like Michael Mina and Masa’s.

As diners become more comfortable with new flavors and as ethnic cuisines become ever more prevalent, spices will likely become more easily procured and widespread. The team at Le Sanctuaire hopes that as the public becomes familiar with different spices, they will seek out a higher-quality selection than those found on supermarket racks. This view is hard to argue with as Irwandi crumbles a tightly

Chefs call Jing Tio the “miracle worker” because of his reputation for

scrolled Sri Lankan cinnamon stick, filling the air with the perfume of

being able to find any spice. But scanning the multi-hued canisters

spiced apple cider.

of spices, it’s difficult to imagine needing anything else. Irwandi Tio, a product specialist at the showroom, revealed how they buy

mise en place no.52, June 2010

Andrea Morris is a 2010 B.P.S. candidate.

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Stars Shine Bright at Augies It was a glorious night. Friends of the CIA came out to honor three of the culinary world’s brightest stars and support the college’s Scholarship Fund. It was a particularly warm and inviting event as the honorees—Alumni of the Year Cat Cora ’95 and Chris Muller ’88, and Chef of the Year Eric Ripert—accepted their Augies with a humility and grace that belied their remarkable careers. Each honoree’s acceptance speech addressed the importance of the CIA in shaping the next master of ceremonies kevin zraly entertains the crowd

generation of culinary leaders. When Eric Ripert, co-owner and chef at Le Bernardin in New York City, called the CIA “the best culinary school in America,” the crowd politely applauded. When he elaborated by saying, “In fact, it is the best culinary college in the

a jubliant eric ripert displays augie

world,” a roar went up that filled the hall. And, in a direct message to the 50 students in attendance, Chef Ripert spoke of how an educated chef always chooses to use ingredients that are grown sustainably and raised humanely. Cat Cora—whose many professional roles include, the only female Iron Chef, executive chef at Bon Appétit, co-founder of Chefs for Humanity, author, and restaurateur—spoke emotionally about her CIA experience. “Julia Child told me that I had to attend the CIA if I wanted to become a great chef. cat cora accepts her augie and champions the cia

If not for her advice, I wouldn’t be who I am. And if not for the great chef-instructors at the CIA, I

cia students man the mccormick hors d’oeuvre table

wouldn’t be standing here today…it’s like coming full circle.” Chris Muller, chef de cuisine at Le Bernardin, has helped extend the education of more than 1,000 CIA students through his Saturday stages, exposing them to the meticulous work and unrelenting excellence of a 3-star Michelin restaurant. He spoke of his gratitude to the CIA for the foundation of skills he took with him upon graduating. This year’s event was filled with mutual admiration, dr. ryan with chris muller, eric ripert, and cat cora

kind words, wonderful stories about the college, and the realization that everyone in the room was a

chris muller graciously accepts his augie

true believer in the mission of the CIA.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Following the Presidential Trail

upcoming changes to our Greystone and San Antonio campuses. Recognizing that the CIA wouldn’t have the success it does without the help if its “family,” Tim presented an inspirational and

The beginning of 2010 was extremely busy for President Tim Ryan.

entertaining segment during which he presented Staff and Faculty

Between updating the entire CIA family at his annual State of

of the Year awards, celebrated anniversaries, and shared some fun

the Institute and overseeing the preparations for the Bocuse d’Or

and highly entertaining video clips. Following the presentation, the

competition on our Hyde Park campus, there was barely time to

entire campus community enjoyed a luncheon and entertainment

breathe. Despite the demands of these two major events, Tim made

by “1964: The Beatles Tribute Band” in the Student Recreation

time to, among other things, share his experience with students and

Center.

his expertise on National Public Radio.

Students Gather to Hear Prez In February, students assembled at the Danny Kaye Theatre to hear Tim speak about trends, food ethics, and food democracy. He held two sessions to accommodate both a.m. and p.m. classes. The students were a great audience and asked a number of thoughtprovoking and excellent questions.

Leading Bocuse d’Or Panel On the first day of the Bocuse d’Or event, Tim moderated a fascinating panel discussion on “Crafting Your Career.” He skillfully led panelists Jerome Bocuse ’94, Daniel Boulud, Michael

Live on NPR

Cimarusti ’91, Traci Des Jardins, Daniel Humm, Thomas Keller,

Tim was recently spotlighted in a live interview on WAMC/

Tourondel through such topics as the qualities they look for when

Northeast Public Radio’s Roundtable program. The show chose the

hiring new staff, career advice, necessity for additional training in

CIA as the venue for a live three-hour broadcast about the college,

Europe, classical training vs. new wave methods, the casualization

our student-staffed restaurants, and food trends. Several faculty

of American dining, and potential governmental monitoring/

members and students were also interviewed, and the hosts gave

restrictions on fat, salt, etc. Students packed the room and hung on

the school some wonderful PR by raving on air about the food

every word.

Paul Liebrandt, Walter Manzke, Alain Sailhac, and Laurent

prepared by our chefs and students.

A Presidential Address When Tim presented his State of the Institute address for the CIA’s more than 600 faculty and staff, his primary goal was to ensure that there is organizational clarity regarding our mission, vision for the future, and strategic plan. Focusing on what staff and faculty can do during these challenging economic times to support the college and its mission was also at the top of the list of items Tim discussed. At the same time, he outlined the many exciting things that are going on at the CIA. Tim shared updates on the college’s integrated plan, green campus initiative, new communications campaign, and

mise en place no.52, June 2010

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Faculty Amusements By Jennifer O’Neill

The last issue of mise en place got me thinking. If our alumni have

pursuit of lively swarms, only to be thwarted by bees with minds

unusual hobbies, so too must our very talented faculty. With that

of their own. Not only is it complicated to catch a swarm, he has

in mind, I discovered just how multi-faceted some of our CIA

discovered many predators on his property, waiting to pounce

team really is.

on his precious bees. One afternoon he spied a bullfrog in his

Rudolf Spiess, Beekeeper

pond that managed to munch on 10 bees within 20 minutes. Rudy would have none of this, however, and developed a sort of reverse

Lecturing Instructor in Baking and Pastry Arts

“witness protection program” for his bees by relocating the frog

It started out as a casual favor for a colleague. Chef Rudy Spiess

several different times to keep it from making a meal out of them.

offered to store some of Chef Mark Ainsworth’s honeybees while he sold his house. Little did Rudy know that the keeping of honeybees would become his passion. And now, not only does he keep bees at home, he also generously

Now we ask you, could anyone “bee” more devoted to a hobby?

Elana Raider, Cyclist Associate Professor in Liberal Arts

volunteers with students from the CIA’s Chefs Sustaining

As a child growing up in Los Angeles, Lani

Agriculture Club to maintain hives on the Hyde Park

Raider was forced to ride a bike to school.

campus. At home, he lives on three wooded acres

Then, while a student at UC Santa Cruz, a

that provide plenty of wildlife for him to observe. As

bike was a necessity in order to navigate the

a result, he’s become quite an expert on the habits of

mammoth campus. Her dorm room was at

honeybees. Finding a swarm and relocating it is one of

the top of a huge hill, and with the aid of an

the main ways to build a hive. It is easier said than done,

upgraded mountain bike, Lani got into good

however, and Rudy has climbed his share of trees in

enough shape to climb the mountain with ease. Years went by when Lani didn’t think much about cycling. It was while watching the Tour de France three years ago that her

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com


interest in cycling was rekindled. She met a personal trainer— now her cycling partner—and a group of other CIA faculty who loved cycling. Lani began taking 65- and 100-mile bike rides. As someone who eats only unprocessed, organic, and “clean” foods, Lani prides herself—while out on a ride—on maintaining a balance of calories in/calories out and of keeping a regimen for staying

John Fischer ’88, Spinner Associate Professor in Hospitality and Service Management

hydrated. At a rest stop during a particularly hot and grueling 100-

Upon hearing that

mile ride, however, Lani found herself freezing—something was

John Fischer is

very wrong. She realized that she wasn’t taking in enough calories

into “spinning,”

to fuel her body. Lani’s cycling partner handed her an energy

I had visions of

drink. At first, Lani resisted drinking the processed beverage.

him pedaling away on a bike in an

But realizing what she had to do, she drank it and was able to

exercise studio, working up a sweat to bass-heavy rock

finish the race with no problem. Only after the race did Lani realize she had drunk a Rockstar caffeinated energy drink—something she would never have dreamed of touching since it is one of the most artificial and processed drinks one can

music. But I was wrong. John Fischer is a spinner of wool, not bicycle wheels. His hobby started when he accompanied his wife Nathalie, an avid knitter, to the New York State Sheep and Wool Festival. As he waited for Nathalie to do her shopping—a scene he likens to hanging around outside a dressing room holding your wife’s purse—John became entranced with the wool spinning demonstration. He investigated and

consume. A realist, Lani discovered that though she chooses to live “clean,” there is a time and a place for an “artificial” boost!

Richard Coppedge, Jr., C.M.B., Lumberjack Professor in Baking and Pastry Arts When Chef Rich Coppedge isn’t proofing yeast or developing gluten-free flour mixtures, you may find him in the woods scoping out trees to fell. An amateur lumberjack for the past 10 years, Rich has been cutting down trees and chopping wood both as a hobby

found a spinning guild in nearby Red Hook, NY. The vice president of the guild, Mary Kelley, took John under her wing and tutored him every Tuesday for several months in this old-fashioned art. John became Mary’s star pupil. He explains, “Once you’ve figured out what it’s supposed to feel like, spinning, like cooking, requires ‘touch.’” Though John is comfortable participating in a hobby enjoyed mostly by women, he firmly states, “To retain my manhood quotient, I often spin while drinking beer and watching football.” Jennifer O’Neill is a CIA alumni relations officer.

and as fuel for his home. He also “spreads the warmth around” by selling cords of wood to other CIA employees. Lumberjacking hasn’t always been a “piece of cake” for this baker, though. Once while he was taking down a tree, it dropped in an unexpected way and caught Rich in the face—breaking it in eight places. Recovery was slow and he had to subsist on a liquid diet. Frustration reached its peak at a Memorial Day barbecue when he was unable to partake in the classic picnic fare. He decided there was “more than one way to skin a cat” and put a hot dog with mustard and beer in the blender and drank it. Much to his surprise, the concoction actually tasted good!

mise en place no.52, June 2010

21


CIA Students

Making Memories

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ories e m em , a nd t a e th are ion sions a rs s caus id th e ress a a e p p y s b , m i e s s ’ ’ s g t t I it es the colle ybe inter ories ou r form . Ma r u id o m o m em t o iv y v r e fr s e — t h u n in s he d yo atro og e t IA t e mo n p t h C u t a e o e r n m ving t th lve a s co ofte in g , ser e. A e revo t me n t k a o eceiv o a u r t c m d a r s g f r o n o em dd i ou g ime, ots ld se a we en y st t s. L h r ed g a i wor n f w i m t a e sh a r ou ea dr th y r l e c a h r h , n t o it n f o h at e it’s pers ay w rine ss t lesso b r a l w s e y l c a l a i t k f y eo ew ng a Or m ife s carr ma ki utsid eaf ber. a kn you , r o m a t e e e n d e c a lu pla H er lty m taur t in c take facu Res last. migh t e r t a it a ie h r ff s th ion t favo Esco d sh i p laxat n om a e the r ie r f r e nd 09. nd f oy a advic n 20 me a i i re j t s u e sage t p a lif of u d en s of ents A st ie I m r C o o m m em e by the , m ad e s g ie r r o fo m em ose h t of

mise en place no.52, June 2010

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Book Shelf Mother’s Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again

The Modern Café By Francisco Migoya This professional guide to every aspect of the launch and management of a

By Lisa Schroeder ’95

modern, upscale café is

In Lisa Schroeder’s one-

the first comprehensive

of-a-kind book, Mother’s

reference for the

Best, she has gathered 150

aspiring restaurateur or café owner who wants to get every detail just right. An exquisitely illustrated volume, The Modern Café offers expert

recipes seasoned generously with wisdom and tips that teach how to become a more confident cook. Scattered throughout the book are “love notes” that help demystify ingredients and explain the “why” and “how” of different

advice and nearly 250 contemporary recipes for breakfast pastries,

techniques. This is perfect for the chef or food enthusiast who is

artisanal sandwiches, truffles and treats, and much more. The book

interested in preserving the home cooking traditions of mothers

focuses its attention on the key areas of a café—the bakery, the

from around the world.

pastry shop, the savory kitchen, beverages, and the retail shelf— offering invaluable information on finances, human resources, food production, recipe/menu development, and even décor. The Modern Café offers both inspiration and instruction for anyone who wants to operate a successful café.

The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook: A Year in the Life of a Restaurant

Artisan Breads at Home By Eric W. Kastel ’90

By Michelle Wojtowicz

This addition to the CIA’s

’98 and Philip

“At Home” series is perfect

Wojtowicz ’98

for the home baker in

Serendipity brought Michelle

your life who wants to go beyond the basics to create delectable artisan breads. In this book, Certified Master Baker Eric Kastel leads readers through both

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and Philip Wojtowicz to Big Sur to open their restaurant behind a gas station. But it was a combination of vision, experience, and, ironically, the ability to relax and enjoy their surroundings that has made their restaurant a success. In

simple and challenging recipes, including baguettes, peasant bread,

their book, they share a seasonal look at the food they so expertly

ciabatta, cheddar onion rye rolls, coffee cake, and sourdough.

prepare. Each chapter highlights an ingredient like honey or

Featuring troubleshooting tips and nearly 170 full-color photos

focuses on a specific holiday. Throughout, there are short Q&As

of techniques and finished breads, this book covers the basics of

with their purveyors and friends. This book offers a unique look

bread making as well as advanced techniques.

into the heart of Big Sur.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Outdoor Herbal Classrooms Spring is here and it’s the perfect time to celebrate the herb gardens that come to life on the CIA’s Hyde Park and Greystone campuses. As the ultimate in outdoor classrooms, the herb gardens provide our students with the opportunity to learn the art of cultivating and cooking with more than 60 types of culinary herbs. At Greystone, the Cannard Herb Garden was established in 1989 with a generous gift from the Cannard Fund. It was donor Bob Cannard’s deep and abiding love of the Sonoma/Napa Valley and long-standing wish to be involved with the CIA that prompted his gift. His generosity made it possible for the CIA to install the necessary staircases, terracing, and plantings that grew into the glorious herb garden that exists today outside the main facility on the Greystone campus. In 2000, the Hyde Park campus was abuzz with construction trucks as the Colavita Center for Italian Food and Wine was slowly emerging from the barren ground. The resulting Tuscan-style building cried out for a garden in front. It was with support and sponsorship from Durkee, a worldwide herbs and spices company, that a beautiful herb garden was created. Opened in May 2001, the Durkee Herb Garden Plaza resides on the building’s south side adjacent to the al fresco dining area. The garden provides over 8,700 square feet of space for herbs, edible

students harvest herbs from the cannard herb garden on the greystone campus

flowers, heirloom vegetables, and ornamental flowers, and is a dynamic part of life and education for our students. Of course, these two garden classrooms can’t possibly fulfill the herb and spice needs of a three-campus college. Every year the CIA receives approximately $50,000 in donated spices for our students’ use. You can only begin to imagine the scope of our sponsors’ generosity when you understand that every year they send us 1,500 pounds of whole black pepper, 88 pounds of star anise, 320 industrial-size jars of cinnamon sticks, and 200 jars of whole cumin seeds—just to name four of the 55 spices they donate to the CIA. We appreciate all our donors who make such a huge difference in the quality and consistency of the educational experience we provide for each who passes through our doors—and wish the durkee herb garden on the hyde park campus

mise en place no.52, June 2010

to thank them.

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Career Changers…Changed Lives Sheila Stone ’03

Most career changers will tell you that they always knew they had an interest in the culinary arts but detoured through other, often very

Right out of high school, Sheila

satisfying, careers before acting on their passion for food. The CIA

Stone enlisted in the Navy to

has a long history of embracing the career changer. We wanted to

follow her dream of adventure

introduce you to a few of them…

and to see the world. And she

Andy Nusser ’95

did! Landing a plum position

Standing at the intersection of

White House television unit,

“art” and “commerce” you’ll

she traveled the world recording

find Andy Nusser, partner and

history and documenting the

as photographer’s mate on the

executive chef at Tarry Lodge in

President’s day-to-day activities. “It was addictive to watch world

Port Chester, NY. The route he

events unfold before your eyes,” she explained. But it was those same

took to get there was illuminated

events that pulled her from her photography job into combat duty in

by the influences of family,

both Haiti and Somalia.

science, serendipity, and his own inevitable passion.

Retired from the service after 20 years, Sheila got a job on the NBC show Politics with Chris Matthews and then with the White House Press

Andy came from a family that was serious about both eating (his

Corps for ABC News. However, family obligations meant a return

father founded The Santa Barbara Eating Society) and the arts (his

to her native Washington State. She found a job in a restaurant and

family members were painters, actors, and musicians). He began his

simply fell in love with cooking. But it was only after the tragic events

work life at General Motors where he filed design drawings in his

of September 11 that she decided to act on her passion for food. A

position as clerk. That led to subsequent jobs as draftsman, CAD

former shipmate, who had always talked about wanting to be a chef

operator, and finally associate engineer. But as Andy tells it, even

and attend the CIA, died during the attack on the Pentagon. Inspired

after 10 years at GM, he still had nothing in common with his cubicle

by his memory, Sheila took courage in hand and enrolled.

buddies. To his way of thinking, he had not fulfilled the Nusser family artistic legacy!

Today, Sheila is a private chef who often gets the opportunity to live in the home of her clients. She’s worked for timber kings in the Puget

Downsizing at GM translated into opportunity for Andy. He took a

Sound area of Washington State and renowned East Coast lawyers,

chance and headed straight to the CIA, where he found his artistic

to name a few. Sheila loves the challenge of “taking what might look

expression in the culinary arts. Always a fan of multitasking, he

on paper like a boring diet or controlled nutritional limitation and

thrived on “having six burners on high, loaded with sauté pans, and

turning it into something tasty and appealing,” she explains. Always

cranking out food.” After graduating at the top of his class, Andy

experimenting with flavor and texture, Sheila can still be found

worked to help create culinary gems in the miniscule kitchen at Po,

traveling the world, one dish at a time.

Mario Batali’s Greenwich Village restaurant in New York City. In 1998, Andy opened the kitchen of Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s Babbo Ristorante. He helped earn the restaurant a three-star review from The New York Times and the title of Best New Restaurant from the James Beard Foundation. In 2003, Andy and his partners Batali and Bastianich opened Casa Mono and Bar Jamón. Zagat rated the bar the number one Spanish restaurant in NYC.

Anne Haerle ’08 No matter how hard you looked, you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone who loves learning more than Anne Haerle. Before she even set her sights on

Andy is always looking for the next artistic challenge. No doubt he

studying at the CIA, she had

will find it and succeed. With two children of his own, he is pretty sure

already earned three degrees—a

that the Nusser family artistic legacy will make its way into the next

bachelor’s in fine arts in graphic

generation.

design from the University of Kentucky in Lexington, KY; a

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master of science in communication design from Pratt Institute in New York City; and a master of business administration from the University of Westminster in London, England.

and management excellence. These days, Dennis is corporate chef at Noble/The Food Channel Culinary Center and Studios in Springfield, MO, a company that

After a number of years working in the field of design, and feeling

specializes in recipe and product development, food styling, and

that her life was sedentary, Anne began a regimen of exercise and

photography, as well as trend analysis for the foodservice industry.

nutritious eating that helped her to not only trim down, but also

Dennis loves his work because at last, his interests in business, the arts,

recognize her passion for healthy food and the art of cooking. Her

and food are in perfect harmony.

quest to feed that newfound passion meant leaving her family behind

Steve Swofford ’97

on the west coast and entering the A.O.S. program on the CIA’s Hyde Park campus. A seasoned student, Anne immediately became a class

Steve Swofford says he learned all

leader, deeply involved in many projects on campus both in and

about mise en place when he was

outside the kitchens and classrooms.

quartermaster in charge of food

Upon graduation she returned to Seattle where she landed a dream

for his Boy Scout troop’s camping

job at The Herbfarm. This celebrated restaurant and inn showcases

trips. “You had to be organized

the exceptional food and wines of the Pacific Northwest. As a rounds

and decide what pots and pans

cook, Anne is being allowed to try her hand at working with a wide

you needed and the quantities

variety of ingredients. In fact, she is encouraged to take part in cheese

of food you had to buy. When I

making, preparing charcuterie, and working in the vegetable garden.

helped cook using Dutch ovens over the open fire, and I knew I had

“What I really love about this job is that it lets me take my creativity

found something I loved to do.” But he never really imagined having a

and channel it in a different way,” Anne explains. “It’s like being in

professional life that centered on food.

graduate school. You get from it as much as you put into it.” That’s vintage Anne Haerle—always passionate about learning!

Dennis Pitchford ’08 Dennis Pitchford loves a good symphony. And it really doesn’t matter to him if it’s a symphony of sound, of movement, or of flavor—he’s there, enjoying and working. When he served as marketing director for the Dallas Symphony Orchestra, he also

Steve earned a business degree from Baylor University in Waco, TX, and upon graduating he began a long and satisfying career at American Airlines (AA). From his modest start in reservations, he became an instructor in the air cargo division. That ultimately led to his job as base manager for flight service out of Boston’s Logan Airport. In that job he oversaw supervisors, instructors, and 850 flight attendants. He was responsible for what happened in the cabin of the aircraft—from catering discrepancies to passenger complaints, from personnel issues to in-flight menu cycles. At that time, many members of the food and beverage department at American Airlines were CIA grads. Knowing Steve’s ongoing interest in food, they encouraged him to attend the college.

took the time to coordinate with the venue’s restaurants to create

The decision to leave AA was frightening, but Steve recalls how

menus that were in sync with the musical program. It was there that

amazing it felt to be in class and finally be doing something he so

the chef encouraged him to pursue a degree at the CIA, explaining

completely loved and had a passion for. “I had great classmates.

to Dennis that the college always delivered great professionals.

We all got along so well. And, most of us were career changers,” he

“Attending the CIA was an enormous leap of faith for me,” Dennis

explains. After graduating with an A.O.S. degree in culinary arts,

explained. “But I felt I really couldn’t go wrong if I pursued what

Steve immediately enrolled in the 30-week baking and pastry arts

I loved.”

certificate program. He came to the attention of then-chef-instructor

No stranger to education when he enrolled at the CIA, Dennis

Markus Farbinger, and assisted him in rewriting the baking and pastry

had already earned a bachelor’s degree in music at Florida State University, and both a master of business administration and a master of arts from Southern Methodist University in Dallas, TX. Already in his thirties, he brought vast professional and life experience with him that informed everything he did. So, it was no surprise that he was chosen by his fellow students as their group leader and that he was the recipient of a number of scholarships and awards for both scholastic

mise en place no.52, June 2010

curriculum. Loving the work and the place, Steve never left the CIA. He took a job in Career Services for two years and then transferred over to Alumni Relations, where he has been ever since. Over the years, he’s worn many hats and had many jobs within the department, but one thing is sure—Steve Swofford couldn’t be happier that he decided to make the change and follow his first love into a satisfying second career.

27


WOHF Takes on Big Issues Obesity, carbohydrate quality, and sodium were the hot topics of discussion at the 2010 Worlds of Healthy Flavors (WOHF) conference at Greystone in January. The initiative, begun in 2004 by the CIA and the Harvard School of Public Health– Department of Nutrition, brings together leading nutrition scientists, corporate chefs, foodservice menu decision-makers, world-class culinary experts, and media representatives to share information that will increase the scope of healthy menu choices available to consumers through American foodservice. Though this conference is by invitation only, the topics discussed and solutions presented are of interest and use to all in the foodservice industry. It was clear from the gathering that foodservice must turn its expertise to helping address chronic diseases by changing the way America eats.

greg drescher, executive director of strategic initiatives, introduces key speakers

Obesity

Sodium

According to Dr. Sonya Angell, director of the cardio-

A presentation by Dr. Lawrence Appel from Johns Hopkins Medical

vascular disease prevention and control program for the

Institutions provided a disturbing look at the effects of sodium on blood

New York City Department of Health and Hygiene, two-

pressure and heart disease. With the realization that almost 69% of

thirds of Americans are either overweight or obese. One of

the population is susceptible to sodium, it is essential that foodservice

the many ways to reduce obesity is to limit calorie intake. At

providers take sodium reduction seriously. Dr. Appel explained that,

the conference, volume foodservice operators discussed ways

for the other 39% of the population, the upper limits of daily sodium

they could play a leadership role in this effort by providing

consumption is 2,300 mg (one teaspoon) and that for the high-risk person

nutrition and calorie information on menus and offering

who is older, hypertensive, African American, or diabetic, that number

smaller portions and a broader choice of reduced-calorie

is only 1,500 mg. He explained that it is not the saltshaker on the table

items. But the consumer needs more education to benefit

that is of concern—it only provides about 6% of our intake. It’s not salt

from these changes, according to Dr. Angell. In a survey of

added during cooking that worries him—that accounts for only 5% of our

customers at chain restaurants where calorie information

intake. Rather, it’s the salt used in processed foods that gives us 77% of

was posted, only 56% said they saw the information and

our dietary sodium. Dr. Douglas Balentine, director of nutrition capability

only 15% said they used that data to make a healthier

at Unilever NA, spoke eloquently of the journey his company is taking

food choice.

to reduce salt in its products. They have set goals to help their customers make a 10% sodium reduction in their diets per year until 2015. Unilever is

Carbohydrate Quality

also investigating natural salt replacements and breakthrough technologies

Dr. Walter Willett of Harvard School of Public Health–

processed foods. With the stakes being so high, governments all over the

Department of Nutrition stressed the importance of making

world are getting involved in the issue of salt reduction, with the United

the change to whole grains at every foodservice point of

Kingdom and Finland successfully leading the way. Dr. Appel expects that

entry. Many of the refined carbohydrate-rich foods and

the U.S. will see major salt policies being enacted in the next 12 months.

beverages on American menus are quickly digested and convert to blood sugar. High glycemic load diets are closely associated with increased risk of diabetes and heart disease. Lilian Cheung, also of the Harvard School of Public Health, walked participants through a tasting of four commercially

28

for stabilization and preservation purposes—a huge issue for purveyors of

After three days of lectures, discussions, and sampling delicious world-class food that met or exceeded the criteria for healthy eating, participants at the conference went away inspired and recommitted to addressing key health issues for Americans.

available beverages that meet Harvard’s beverage guidelines

For further information and access to presentations made at this year’s

of no more than one gram of sugar per fluid ounce.

Worlds of Healthy Flavors conference, visit www.ciaprochef.com/wohf2010.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


A Perfect Blend The CIA & McCormick For Chefs

By Felicia Zammit expose the culinary community to McCormick’s experts and tool kit of professional-grade products and solutions. Flavor helps chefs express culinary creativity and offer on-trend dishes that appeal to their customers.”

What do you get when you mix McCormick

Yet another way that McCormick shows

and Company, Inc., a global leader in spices,

support to the CIA is by providing an

herbs, and seasonings, and The Culinary

approved externship site for our students.

Institute of America? You get the perfect blend

“We’re committed to helping prepare the

of expertise to create a long-term and strategic

next generation of foodservice professionals

alliance. In just two short years, we’ve succeeded in

to be successful. Providing an in-depth view

forming a truly unique partnership with McCormick

into our suite of services, unique products, and

that supports culinary education on every level. Not only is

manufacturing perspective gives students a better

McCormick a major contributor in the areas of food science,

understanding of what it takes to offer unrivaled

career services, and leadership conferences, the company also

flavor solutions, product innovation, and culinary

donates herbs, spices, and a variety of products through our Giftin-Kind program, as well as participates in CIA Consulting and the CIA’s annual leadership awards gala. One of the significant areas of support is McCormick’s and the

leadership,” explains Kafarakis. During the externship, CIA students are encouraged to create recipes based on real results from McCormick R&D scientists.

CIA’s involvement in cross-disciplinary collaborative research

McCormick went above and beyond the role of externship host

programs. In 2007, McCormick established The McCormick

by taking four CIA students with them to the annual National

Science Institute, an organization led by nutrition scientists that

Restaurant Association Show in Chicago in May 2009. By

conducts and disseminates research on the health benefits of

working with McCormick at the influential industry event,

herbs and spices and their potential impact on the public. This

students were able to interact and network with many different

group has positioned McCormick at the cutting edge of the

companies representing all aspects of the restaurant business.

food industry. Similarly, the CIA’s Menu Research and Flavor

It was a win-win for all involved as McCormick benefited from

Development Initiative (MRFDI) provides valuable knowledge

fresh ideas and therefore plans on having students attend the show

to culinary educators and the food industry. Their joint initiative

again this May.

applies “the scientific method” to culinary research, thereby

And finally, McCormick participates in and sponsors some of our

advancing the profession. The outcomes of this research are then applied to assist in solving complex business and societal issues.

annual leadership conferences. These events bring manufacturers, industry decision-makers, and customers together to create a

McCormick’s partnership with MRFDI distinguishes it as an

dynamic dialogue about all aspects of food and health. “Our

industry leader that recognizes food as a valuable medium for

partnership enables us to maintain the leadership position within

problem solving, discovery, and innovation. Dr. Chris Loss

our product categories. It’s truly a privilege to be aligned with the

’93, chair of the CIA’s Department of Menu Research and

world’s foremost authority in culinary education,” explains Phil

Development, states, “The culinary field is inherently cross-

Kafarakis.

disciplinary and benefits greatly from partnerships such as the one

Lee Ellen Hayes, senior advancement officer at the CIA and

with McCormick, which recognizes the synergies of collaborative efforts.”

lead prospect manager working with McCormick, echoes those sentiments. “It is through successful partnerships, such as the one

According to Phil Kafarakis, vice president of Food Away

with McCormick, that the CIA is able to leverage our impact on

From Home for McCormick, “This CIA partnership is a prime

the foodservice industry. We greatly appreciate McCormick’s

opportunity to celebrate the passion of the professional chef and

participation in these collaborative efforts.”

mise en place no.52, June 2010

Felicia Zammit is the CIA corporate relations manager.

29


Why Give? Ed and Joanne Shapoff

Lead Donors for Taste of the CIA Endowed Scholarship Fund What Motivates You to Give? Over our 14-year association with the CIA—whether celebrating a special birthday with dinner at one of the restaurants or attending a week-long Boot Camp—Joanne and I have noticed that every student we’ve met has been special and enthusiastic. We know it’s a lot of hard work to go through the program and that there are good days and bad, but everyone we encounter is upbeat and positive. The students take something that is within them and let it flourish; they truly find themselves at the CIA. That excites us. Every time we have dinner, we ask the students the same questions—why did they come here? What do they like about the school? What do they hope to do when they graduate? They all beam! They are excited and proud of the education they are receiving. This school makes a difference in their lives.

What Makes Giving Meaningful?

large loans to satisfy. We know, too, that there is a high percentage of students at the school who need support—almost 90 percent.

We understand it can be an expensive proposition to attend the

So it seems natural to want to contribute. This scholarship might

CIA and that for some it is quite a reach to afford the tuition. A

make a difference between someone being able to attend and not

substantial number of students are going to finish school with

being able to attend.

How Do You Give? It takes a minimum of $100,000 to endow a scholarship at the college. You have got to begin somewhere. We were fortunate to be able to do our part to jump-start the scholarship fund with a pledge of $25,000. We worked with the Advancement Office to pledge this lead gift hoping that other food enthusiasts who have experienced a taste of the CIA would contribute the same. Gifts and pledges may be added to the fund at any time. As the fund grows, so does the amount available to CIA students who have financial need. If you would like to contribute to the Taste of the CIA Endowed Scholarship Fund to benefit CIA students, please contact Mame Dimock, director of joanne shapoff (center) enjoying the camaraderie at a cia boot camp

30

individual giving, at 845-451-1460 or m_dimock@ culinary.edu. You may also go to www.ciagiving.org.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Giving’s Impact Nadia Israwi ’09 A.O.S. in Culinary Arts Current Baking and Pastry Arts Certificate student Recipient of the Chipotle Mexican Grill Scholarship, Hiram Walker Foundation Endowed Scholarship, Robert W. Finkmann ’82 Working Chef Bursary Scholarship, and James F. Kleisner ’77 Scholarship College Highlights Attending the CIA gave me the opportunity to work with Lani Raider, who is the faculty mentor for Chefs Sustaining Agriculture (CSA). She opened my eyes to the role I play in the evolution of gastronomy and how I can effect change. She advocates that students think about what they place on a plate and how that meal impacts the world around them. Participating in CSA was a lifechanging experience for me. Through CSA I got to meet several Hudson Valley farmers who viewed the CIA as the gateway to the next generation of great chefs. The exchange of ideas we shared—and their excitement at working together to create high quality food that doesn’t compromise integrity—was enlightening. These relationships fostered my interest in creating meals that use local and sustainable ingredients.

Outside Interests/Hobbies

Hopes for the Future I’m hungry to keep learning. My decision to pursue a baking and pastry arts certificate at Greystone is a result of what I learned on my externship. In the mornings, I did pastry and at night I was on the line. When I returned to Hyde Park and took pastry with Chef George Higgins ’78, I learned more, but also had unanswered questions. So, I decided to pursue baking and pastry to round out my education. When I’ve completed this program, I’m going to travel. I’m a “roll

Aside from food and wine, traveling is my passion. I did my

with the punches” kind of person so I’m hoping to see the world

externship in New Zealand. Before my externship I thought you

and write a cookbook centered on my travels. I see the book as a

had to take time off from what you were doing to travel and then

window to the places I’ve been for those who can’t go. But truth be

return to your life. I now realize that it’s simple to intertwine my

told, I’d eventually like to come back and teach at the CIA.

life of food and my love of travel. Now I can go to completely foreign cultures, learn their food, study their ingredients, and try

The Impact

to grasp the culinary history through the people I meet. It never

The scholarships I received were a godsend. They allowed me

ceases to amaze me that, despite our cultural differences, we’re all

the time to take advantage of everything the CIA had to offer

pretty much the same.

like attending the Dooley Lecture series, going to on-campus demonstrations, and spending time on Brooks Farm in New Paltz. Additionally, financial aid gave me the means to pay for my baking and pastry certificate. In short, scholarships opened up the world for me and I am truly thankful.

mise en place no.52, June 2010

31


You Make Us Better… one volunteer at a time

’79

Gary S. Walter has retired.

Thank you to all of our alumni volunteers

’80

Todd Stroher is sous chef

who have supported the CIA by participating in college fairs, hosting admissions receptions, mentoring our

We’d love to see you on campus to share

for Vincent Guerithault in

Phoenix, AZ. He also received his A.O.S. degree in theology from Central Arizona College.

your expertise with our students by lecturing to a class, conducting a demo, or recruiting at a Career Fair.

’81

Peter Caddoo is brewmaster for the New Orleans Lager &

Ale Brewing Company in New Orleans, LA. Robert DeSantis is certified executive chef and sales representative

If you can’t make it back to campus, we can come to you! Host an alumni reception or student scholarship event in your city. Whether it’s meeting for a baseball game, a golf outing, or a trip to an

for Points West Sales and Marketing in Tempe, AZ. He is also a consultant for

the top 100 restaurants in the 2009 Zagat Online and also received an “Excellent” rating in The New York Times on June 26, 2009.

’90

Melinda A. Fox is vice president of development for

the National Breast Cancer Coalition in Washington, DC.

’92

Denise Detwiler Baxter is culinary arts instructor at the

Mountain View High School in Stafford, VA. In 2007, Denise was named Chef

MN.

Educator of the Year by her ACF National Chef’s Chapter. In 2008, she was named

ideas to alumni@culinary.edu. We look forward to visiting you!

’82

Patty Hamilton

been promoted to senior vice president

Senior Alumni Relations Officer

chef/partner of Nisi Estiatorio

Life Care Medical Center in Rosean,

amusement park—your involvement makes us better. Have ideas for an alumni event in your area? Please send us your

John Piliouras is executive

in Englewood, NJ. Nisi was voted one of

students, and hiring our graduates. Your dedication makes us better.

’89

Philip Costner is the chief operating officer for la Mad-

eleine in Dallas, TX. Shaun Kirby has of operations for Crestline Hotels and Resorts in Fairfax, VA. Reed Van Den Berghe is sous chef for Greenbrier Sporting Club in White Sulphur Springs, WV. Reed has three children, Saman-

her chapter’s Chef of the Year. She also earned the Certified Secondary Culinary Educator designation from the ACF in 2010 and was named the chapter’s president that same year.

’93

Andrea Berry-Benson is executive chef for Aramark,

in Columbus, OH. She is married with

tha, Owen, and Wyatt, and a brand-new

four children. John Jurey is store team

grandson, Xavi.

leader for Whole Foods Market in Santa Barbara, CA. Anthony Leganame is

’65

Marshall L. Faye has retired after 32 years as the executive

pastry chef for Trapp Family Lodge.

’71

Thomas A. Scott, Jr. is retired. Thomas now has time

to enjoy his three grandchildren.

Walter H. Pulsifer has retired.

’67

Mark E. Girard retired in 2006 and started teaching part-

’73

Vincent A. Colucci is executive chef for Rome Memorial

Hospital in Rome, NY.

time at Pathfinders Regional Vocational Technical High School District.

’69

’76

opened his own fine dining

Jr. works in the transporta-

in Knoxville, TN.

the Janet Weis Children’s Hospital at Geisinger Medical Center in Danville, PA. He is the 1998 recipient of the Miss Judy Award given by the Geisinger Foundation for outstanding community work.

’70

’85

Jeffrey Charles Decko is the executive chef for Kellogg

Hotel and Conference Center in Wash-

lege in Poughkeepsie, NY. He recently received a New York State Employment Recognition Award.

’95

Dawn Altomari is a licensed social worker for Phelps Me-

morial Hospital in Westchester, NY. She has also published two cookbooks: The Everything Mediterranean Cookbook and The Everything Italian Cookbook, which were

’87

Martin Lespier is execu-

both published by Adams Media Corpo-

tive chef for Compass Group

ration. Sean Blakeslee is executive chef of Cu29 Wine and Bistro in Sayville, NY.

Account of the Year for the second time

Shalom Buskila is executive chef for the

Patti Christian is chef/owner

in 10 years. He has two children, Lauren

Milano Caffe in Rehovot, Isreal. He is

of Upper Crust Crumbs Des-

and Lindzee.

married with three kids, Maor, Lipz, and Shalev.

sert Co. in Pilot Mountain, NC. Upper Crust is a wholesale bakeshop approximately 35 miles from Winston-Salem. Ben Sutton is the chef/owner of Ben’s Catering and Events in Georgia. Ben has two daughters, Nora and Maureen.

Ronald Alterio is team

Maureen is a sophomore at the CIA and

leader/chef for Compass

has just returned from her externship at

Group in Wilton, CT.

in Washington, DC.

executive chef for Sodexo at Marist Col-

in West Grove, PA, where he has won

tion division of Step Inc. in Williamsport,

’77

Restaurant Associates at the U.S. Senate

Seth Simmerman has

restaurant, the Echo Bistro and Wine Bar

the motorcycle miracle tour that benefits

foodservice manager with

ington, DC.

Bernard W. Bredbenner,

PA. He is also the founder/organizer of

’84

Christopher Fritz is

The Hotel Hershey.

’88

Robert A. Margolis is chef/manager for Keystone

Senior, Inc. in Westminster, CO. Brian P. Pouchak is general manager of

’98

Andrew Cain is executive chef for the Santé Restaurant

in the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn,

Gershon’s Deli and Catering in

in Sonoma, CA. Andrew had a great

Schenectady, NY.

2009. In September, he married Angela Bettinelli. In October, Andrew and his restaurant received one Michelin star and three out of four stars from Michael

32


Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle. Chris “Koz” Kozlowski has just been elected chairman of the board of the New Hamp-

The Next Great Thing

shire Lodging & Restaurant Association.

Brant Worrell ’94 believes he has one of the

The Union Leader named his restaurant,

best jobs on earth. In his role at Illes Seasons

The Orchard Street Chop Shop, one of the “Top 3 Restaurants in New Hampshire.”

and Flavors, he gets to take what the company calls “Illes Dine Around.” He and his team travel to different countries to drill down deep

’00

Carolyn Bond is controller for the San Diego

Private Bank in La Jolla, CA. Jason M.

into regional cuisines and capture flavors and seasonings unique to those areas. You might

Giordano is executive chef for Hotel

find him dining at world-renowned elBulli,

Griffou in New York, NY. Timothy

where he’s savoring the unique flavor notes of

Hazen is executive chef for CRL Senior Living Communities. He was recently

innovative cuisine. He might be walking down

featured in Preserving Your Memory, a

the back roads of a Brazilian town, sampling

quarterly magazine for the Fisher Center for Alzheimer’s Research Foundation.

street food straight from a vendor’s cart. Or

Charles Kirkwood married in July

he could be found strolling a coastal town in

2009. He is wine operations manager at

Peru to experience what he calls the “next great

Block 7 Wine Company in Houston, TX. Michael Kyle is the managing partner

spice”—the aji panca chili. And he should know

at Bravo! Cucina Italiano in Homestead,

what’s coming down the pike; he’s the director

PA. Michael married in August 2008.

’02

Michael Anderson is chef/ owner of Bow Valley Gour-

met, a private and personal chef service company. Keith Vixie successfully

of culinary in the Research and Development Department at Illes in Dallas, TX. He started his research and development career after spending a few years as sous chef for Hilton and then a private county club. But with a baby

passed the Certified Dietary Manager’s

on the way, he simply wasn’t making enough money. He looked into the job of research chef and

Association exam and is now a certified

found one at Simmons Foods, a business-to-business poultry company that focuses on customizing

dietary manager for Las Ventanas, a lifecare facility in Las Vegas, NV.

chicken products for foodservice and retail companies. “I spent the first several months like a deer in the headlights,” he explained. But he soon got his feet under him and went on to create flavor

’03

Christine (Russell)

profiles and develop a line of five chicken wing flavors. He also learned the fine art of public

Alderman is crew member

relations, providing on-site demonstrations of how to prepare the various chicken recipes. Brant was

for Trader Joe’s in Arlington Heights, IL. She had a baby girl in January 2009.

hooked on R&D and became a member of the Research Chefs Association. In 2002, he was one of

Brandi N. Stephens is restaurant

the first 10 chefs to receive the Association’s Certified Research Chef accreditation.

manager for Nordstrom in Los Angeles, CA. She is also a cancer survivor and a

Interestingly enough, Illes Seasonings and Flavors, his current employer, supplied seasoning to

“warrior chick.”

Simmons Foods. That’s how Illes knew they wanted to “steal” Brant away for their R&D department.

’05

After approaching Simmons about it, they offered Brant the position and he headed for Dallas. Karina Gordon and Nicolas Massaro ’05 married at

Despite what some might think, Brant doesn’t spend all his time traveling the world and sampling

The Hershey Hotel in May. They have

regional flavors; he is often back in Texas directing bench development of flavor profiles for national

been together since they met at the CIA

accounts. He sees his role as part problem solver, part innovator, and part scientist. There are now

in 2004. Jorge Guzman is chef de cuisine for the Corner Table Restaurant in Minneapolis, MN. Jorge became engaged in July 2009. Sonya Trifilo and

five full-time food scientists working at Illes, and the small company has built a reputation as a culinary problem solver for its customers.

Taylor Kneubuhler ’05 married in Ra-

Over the years, Brant has stayed in touch with many of his CIA friends. He remembers his times at

leigh, NC. Taylor works as front of house

the college as some of the best in his life. And while he speaks fondly of his chefs and externship

manager for Kildare’s Irish Pub in Chapel Hill, NC. The Kneubuhlers are expecting their first child in May 2010.

employer, he remembers most the sense of camaraderie with his classmates. As for how the CIA has impacted his career, he explains, “My CIA degree has done nothing but help me along the way!”

33


The Spice of Life As you wend your way through the aisles of the century-old West Side Market in Cleveland, OH, you are assailed by aromas,

’07

Brittany Frick is executive

’08

Bree Brown-Rosa is a

pastry chef for Red Velvet

Cupcakery in Washington, DC.

personal chef and baker for

colors, and sounds that seduce you to try

Baking By Bree in Bronx, NY. She got

and buy. For the Market’s approximately 100

kowski can be found in Chongquing,

vendors, their stalls in the massively arched, yellow-brick building are home. And it’s at

married in May 2009. Jarrod MarChina working as executive pastry chef for the bakery/cake shops of Couture Cakes. It’s the only company in China

stall E-2 where Dion Tsevdos ’94 found the

that makes fondant cakes—something new

spice of life.

to the Chinese people. John D. Pickett

After graduating from the CIA, Dion took

Chester, PA. He is married to Katrina

what he called the “typical route,” working his way up from sous chef, to banquet chef, and finally to executive

is sous chef for Blue Pear Bistro in West Schmidt-Pickett ’08. Lauren Welsch is supervisor at Cameron Mitchell’s Ocean

chef at his own place. But his wife was keeping banker’s hours and Dion was working 24/7—not the life he

Prime restaurant. She recently received

wanted. He found CIA alum Gary Thomas ’87, owner of the wholesale and retail operation called Ohio

her B.S. in hospitality management from

City Pasta. Dion took a job working the retail arm of the company at the West Side Market. He also began managing Ohio City Pasta’s Urban Herbs stall at the market. Eventually Dion bought that business from Gary and now provides 350 herbs and spices to the wholesale and retail market. It was another CIA alum and friend who presented Dion with an opportunity to enrich his life by helping aspiring culinarians. Tim Michitsch ’84, who teaches at Cleveland’s Lorain County Joint Vocational High

Ohio University.

’09

Antonio Ibanez is chef tournant at Fig and Olive in

New York City. Logan Ronkainen is executive chef for Krazy Kate’s Landmark Inn in Boiceville, NY.

School, tapped Dion to help him train students for the ProStart® competitions that can help them win scholarship dollars. That affiliation has expanded to include annual CIA recruitment events that bring together 300–400 students. Topping the bill are usually CIA Ambassadors like Fritz Sonnenschmidt and

In Memoriam

a host of CIA alumni like Iron Chef Michael Symon ’90, owner of Cleveland’s famed Lola and Lolita

Fred Yamashita ’53

restaurants. What Dion might be proudest of is his part in recruiting a couple dozen students who have gone

Charles Fournier ’62

on to attend the CIA.

Carroll S. Heydt ’64 Cleveland A. McGee ’71

Love Match

Ralph J. Wirthlin ’71

When Frank Saporito ’08 noticed that

Walter Hessling ’74

Sarah Ann Marriott ’08 was in all of his

Frida (Bericic) Koci ’74

B.P.S. classes, it crossed his mind that he

Thelma King ’76

would like to get to know her better. And

Gerald Andolora ’78

he did. Their common interests and shared

Michael Setzer ’81

values made it a CIA love match. They

Gregory Yucisin ’82

received their bachelor’s degrees in February

Robert James Fox ’94

and 18 months later, in August 2009,

James VanDong Hatter ’95

they were married on Martha’s Vineyard.

Margaret Votta ’97

Happily, they are now both working at jobs they love. Frank is sous chef at Pond

John Francis Brown (attended ’98–’99)

House Restaurant in West Hartford, CT, and

Susan Swanezy ’02

Sarah is operations specialist with Marriott

Vicky Chen (attended ’09)

Charles Brower ’73

International in New England.

34

www.ciaalumninetwork.com


Win! a FREE Ticket to alumni homecoming 2010! Write a clever caption to go with this picture and win free admission to this year’s alumni homecoming on September 24–25 at the Hyde Park campus. DEADLINE for entries: June 15, 2010.

Submit captions online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com or by snail mail to: The Culinary Institute of America, Alumni Relations Office, 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park, NY 12538


The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

HOMECOMING Calling All Alumni

Join us for ALUMNI HOMECOMING 2010 Friday and Saturday September 24–25

2010

at the Hyde Park campus Hope to see you in September

Log on to www.ciaalumninetwork.com for details about Homecoming as they become available. Alumni Relations Admissions 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 ciaalumninetwork.com

Advancement 845-905-4275 ciagiving.org

CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaprochef.com

General Information 845-452-9600


mise en place issue 52 The Art of Spices