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The Coveted FREE

#4

Supporting & Promoting The Scottish Fashion Industry


on the cover Illustration by Kristen Neilson www.misskristabelle.blogspot.com info@thecovetedmag.com www.thecovetedmag.com


CONTENTS

3 HELLO 4 SHOP SCOTTISH 5 STREET STYLE 6 FASHION: OXYGEN 11 ILLUSTRATION: KRISTEN NEILSON 14 COPYCATS 15 FASHION: ELECTRIC DREAMS 19 REVIEWS: HERMAN BROWN 20 BEAUTY: OUR S/S10 LOOK 21 BEAUTY: THE WEIGHTING GAME 22 INTERVIEW: DIANA KIERNANDER

Photo: Susan Castillo


HELLO CURRENTLY LOVING... Christopher Kane’s Fall 2010 Collection - we are predicting a whole manner of poorly made PVC high street copies. *shudders* “The mag has had a tiny bit of a makeover. Hope you likey. We have some fabby fashion spreads for you this month featuring some amazing Scottish designers such as Iona Crawford and Hilary Laing, as well as some interviews with some top fashion folks. We would also like to say a big HELLO to our new Edinburgh Correspondent Steph. Remember and read our blog which is updated daily at www.thecovetedmag.com for tips, photos, articles and interviews not featured in the magazine.” Laterz Sarah Graham Editor in Chief

INTRODUCING... STEPH COE EDINBURGH CORRESPONDENT BLOG: www.walkthesand.blogspot.com

y, quirk ssed e h t b se e g in livin burgh. O vintag , r e g s n i n i i d u t d n b c E a , t e erch ridge in ore coll n shoes fit m l t a b ti ad visu tock ry o u -y, I ubou I'm a rea of S fashion with Lo ath. Eve l. Retro , a t e u cool ll things bsessed rse to d a bowlf my wris a e o e n e with es. I'm d Conv o I hav ways o pes. Th g l i s s n r a s t , a an s g e dre Nikes il rin ches ar Breton ander W am a t r k a t I ith w e s a co c ce w a lex t now nd A ion w a need -your-f obsess Kane a ard. Jus in r o and have an ristophe snowb .. o I t h r. e d C e h n a of lov ts furt s I n d g desi me, an em pan e te h xx exci ring har o Step l e v e xp Lo

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Ophelia Tights by Hilary Laing £18 Hat by Sally Ann Provan £320 Belts by Pistol Whip Vintage £12-£20 Tee by Bang Boutique @ Welcome Home Store £28

Photo:Susan Castillo

SHOP SCOTTISH

BEST OF THE BLUES

Holly Fulton Art Deco Necklace, £65 www.asos.com Kool Jewels Almost Famous Necklace, £14 www.kooljewels.co.uk

Plastic Bat Sad Geek Necklace, £10 www.plastic-bat.co.uk

Rock N Retro Animal Print Hair Bow, £1.50 www.rock-n-retro.co.uk

STOCKISTS www.asos.com www.bangboutique.com www.hilarylaing.com www.hollyfulton.com www.pistolwhipvintage.com www.plastic-bat.co.uk ww www.rock-n-retro.co.uk www.sallyannprovan.com www.welcomehomestore.co.uk 4 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010


STREET STYLE

I took these photos on a perfect Spring day. Everyone was happy and optimistic about the weather. People had their coats unbuttoned, had removed scarves and some even had sunglasses on. We are all so ready for the new season. I popped into Che Camille and snapped one of the designers who had one of her own pieces on and looked amazing. It must be so satisfying wearing something you have designed yourself. I also took a photo of a lovely french girl who had a bird brooch on. She made it herself and it looked amazing. It looked perfect with her black blazer. I hope the weather continues to brighten up and we start to see some light colours, new styles and even more DIY pieces. Words & Photos: Aelrid Turner

This month we will be style snapping at The Affordable Vintage Fairs in Glasgow and Edinburgh. We are super excited about the fair finally coming to Scotland for the first time ever! We cannot wait to trawl the rails for vintage treasures from Ossie Clark to Frank Usher to rare, one of a kind homemade numbers. Our style spys tell us that there is a Dead Stock Stall full to the brim of pristine, unworn vintage. With over 40 stalls of quality, inexpensive vintage clothing, footwear and accessories, we are starting to save our pennies now! See you there!

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FASHION Photographer Louise Jauss Madsen Stylist Grace Maran Photographers Assistant Louise Munro Model Charlie Banks @ Stolen

Oxygen live and breathe fashion

Dress: Iona Crawford (price on request) Mel Brogue Ankle Boots: Schuh ÂŁ69.99 6 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010


The Lake & Stars Sedgemoor Chemise: Boudiche £140.00 White Jacket: Godiva £55 Boots: Rocket Dog Chomps: Schuh £69.99

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Dallas top: Totty Rocks £69 Nude flowers: stylists own Schuh Lexi 6 Button Boot: Schuh £49.99 8 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010


White shirt with extended sleeves: Katy Bell (price on request) Bebaroque Saylor Body: Boudiche ÂŁ100

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Images Copyright Louise Jauss Madsen. www.loujaussphoto.carbonmade.com Net top: Totty Rocks £29 Saylor Hold ups: Bebaroque £49.95 Boots: As before

STOCKISTS Bebaroque www.bebaroque.co.uk available at Boudiche & Totty Rocks Boudiche 15 Frederick Street Edinburgh EH2 2EY 2E www.boudiche.com Godiva 9 West Port The Grassmarket Edinburgh EH1 2JA www.godivaboutique.co.uk Iona Crawford www.ionacrawford.com Katy Bell any enquires please contact: gracemaran@live.co.uk Totty Rocks 40 Victoria Street Edinburgh EH1 2JW www.tottyrocks.co.uk Schuh 6/6a Frederick Street Edinburgh EH2 2HB www.schuh.co.uk 10 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010


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FEATURED ILLUSTRATOR What My favourite piece of clothing is my black leather vintage jacket that fits perfectly. I wear it with black leather driving gloves and feel like Sandy from ‘Grease’ in the final scene at the fairground! I've got a fetish for exquisite socks, tights and leggings. I love cool hats, cute lingerie, faux fur jackets, stunner shades and beautiful dresses and mini skirts. My friend posts me 'Fruits' magazine from Tokyo as I find Japanese street style very interesting. I love mix and matching and creating my own style. Eventhough I adore fashion, I don't follow trends and find my mood dictates what outfit I put on each day. Avante garde designs really appeal to me and I like amazing costumes and face paint. My favourite piece of jewellery is my gran’s silver script bangle. I never met her but she dressed like a movie star and loved hats as much as I do. www.misskristabelle.blogspot.com

Who My biggest inspiration comes from Music includinclud ing bands such as Animal Collective, Burial & Caribou to Goldfrapp and Glasgow band Barn Owl. Currently in love with The XX, Beach House & Ohbijou too. I adore great modern Japanese pop artists like Chiho Aoshima & Aya Takano. I also sing in a band called Flight of Fuschia. French artists like Candybird and Koralie, inspire alot in me among others like Miss Van & Fafi. The most explosive artist for me is Cai Guo-Qiang, I saw his work at the Guggenheim museum in New York while listening to 'My Bloody Valentine' on my ipod. It changed my life. He uses gun powder to manifest pure sources of energy and he helped me to see art in a different way: the act of creating as the art form. I feel I do that when I dance. Josephine Baker and Isadora Duncan are two of the greatest dancers who ever lived. To me the greatest dancers are not taught, they dance from their core and rejoice in their heart at the originality of their movements. I like to capture this feeling in my drawings too. As for fashion, I loved Alexander McQueen and have great respect for Matthew Williamson, Junya Watanbe, John Richmond, Anna Molinari, Antonio Marras, Veronique Leroy, John Galliano, Hussein Chalayan, and Undercover label. I am currently working on a collection of dresses that will come under my designer name: Kristabelle. One of my goal's is to design lingerie too, so much passion in this heart! I created a bikini when I was 16!

Where My favourite haunts are Che Camiille, Maia, Boudiche, and also vintage and charity shops in the West end. You will find me in Mono, Stereo or various cafes drawing and writing. I have a studio space at Trongate 103 and you can find some of my work and thoughts on my blog at www.misskristabelle.blogspot.com My website is due to launch in Spring this year. yea Why I do what I love because it makes me happy. If I’m happy, I can make others laugh and smile. When Now, I live for the moment. I have big aspiraNo tions but I am living my dream. I’ve achieved so much already but I love to re-invent. I’ve recently found a Chi Kung teacher, I hope this will help me remain still in the midst of chaos.

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Illustrations copyright Kristen Neilson

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NEWS

A IT’S

original design by Lolapop

B FF O P RI

P* SHO P O YT

THE YEAR OF THE ©OPY©AT Can you spot the difference between the original indie designer jewellery and the alleged High Street rip offs? We sure can!

original design by LLROK

IT’S

IP AR

OFF

BY

Shop Indie www.lolapop.bigcartel.com www.ladyluckrulesok.com www.madebywhite.com

original design by Made by White

M* .CO S ASO

The fashion blogs are awash with accusations that high street big guns have been caught copying small, indie designers’ products, more often than not, jewellery items. They apparently change one or two tiny details, manufacture it abroad utilizing cheap labour then sell it in higher volumes, at lower cost to the consumer than the indie designer could manage. The alleged rip offs have been found to be of far inferior quality and lack any hand finishing. Isn’t it weird that Topshop and ASOS are supposedly the main offenders despite pubically championing new designers? These multi million pound businesses must have design departments, so why on earth would these departments resort to tracing other people’s work? Unfortunately, the very nature of the Internet allows this sort of thing to happen all too frequently. For more examples of copyright theft in creative industries, we suggest you visit one of our favourite blogs: www.youthoughtwewouldntnotice.com

A IT’S

* alleged

B OFF P I R

Y

P* SHO P TO

Words: Sarah Graham 14 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010


FASHION Ophelia Backless Dress: Hilary Laing £180 Frenchie Bow Shoes: Schuh £54.99

ELECTRIC DREAMS

Photographer Susan Castillo Stylist Aelrid Turner Make up & Hair Louise Ballantine Models Danni Menzies & Gracie Page @ Stolen

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Harriet Dress: Ten30 £170 Costu Court Shoes: Schuh £54.99 Bracelets: Hilary Laing £10-£30 each

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Ophelia Pink Chiffon Dress: Hiary Laing £200 Ophelia Black Dress worn as top: Hilary Laing £180 Cindy Skirt: Ten30 £115 Sweetie Bow Shoes: Schuh £49.99 Costu Court Shoes: As before


STOCKISTS Hilary Laing www.hilarylaing.com Schuh 9-21 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow www.schuh.co.uk Ten30 Room 2 First Floor 1129 Argyle Street Glasgow www.ten30.co.uk Images shot at Hummingbird 186 Bath Street Glasgow www.socialanimal.co.uk

Images copyright Susan Castillo, www.dripbook.com/SCastillo.


REVIEWS Our newly appointed Edinburgh Correspondent, Steph Coe, (she of Walk the Sand fashion blog fame), lets us into a vintage secret... While WH Armstrong may be the name synonymous with vintage shopping in Edinburgh, Herman Brown is a gorgeous emporium quietly making waves in this town on the vintage radar. Be prepared, severe wardrobe envy will ensue. You'll want to try everything on. On entering the store, you are overwhelmed by the accessories selection — something a lot of vintage haunts around here tend to skim over. The choice of stylish and quirky sunglasses will take you perfectly into summer, and if vintage hats are your thing, this place delivers. A cute selection of buttons, delicate gloves, and necklaces are placed around the store to fawn over, but take time to look at the stunning collection of cameo brooches and jeweled pins at the till. Herman Brown established itself in 1984 as a family run business making it one of the oldest vintage havens in Edinburgh. The owner and founder, Anna Nicholson, is enthusiastic and refreshingly passionate about her store and her job. She sources everything herself, regularly visiting antique fairs, and once a year traveling to a new European city to discover new pieces. Last time it was Paris, and she promises to debut her acrylic jewelry finds from there soon. Every era is covered here. Two Edwardian coats from 1909 (in amazing condition) hang near leopard print bodies. Anna herself says she has no particular favourite era, which is perfect as everything has equal show time. However she does say when pieces arrive from the 20s to the 50s, it gets very exciting. What this store does perfectly is stock a very good selection of vintage designer pieces, from chic Christian Lacroix and Christian Dior, to seventies goodies from Mary Quant and menswear from Burberry. Little known 50s couturiers feature too, with exqui-

Herman Brown 151 West Port Edinburgh EH3 9DP www.hermanbrown.co.uk

sitely crafted jackets and dresses. You can also shop their instore capsule HB Electronics, full of essential buys from floral jackets to graphic print polos, where Xana Marwick handpicks pieces to cater to the current vintage trend market. Look out for the adorable tips and compliments on the labels, like "wear with a lace body" or "be the Princess at the carnival". Herman Brown's small yet carefully selected menswear collection, is complete with accessories including cufflinks and ties. And if quirky household objects are your thing, you'll find the most amazing retro furnishings dotted around the store. Look out for the Duran Duran and Wham! lights. Amazing. Anna assured me that stock arrives frequently, with sellers regularly coming to show her pieces, from which she carefully selects. I loved the fact that Anna will build up collections

in the stockroom, only showcasing them to customers once they have enough depth. This process just cements how truly dedicated this vintage store is. Just now rare bags are being collated, so check back to grab yourself one. The annual two month sale has just finished. So while prices may be back to normal (I must add, they are very reasonable) you can guarantee that a collection of amazing new stock will now be available to glamorize you through 2010. Puffballs, sequins, feathers, bling — you want it, they've got it. There's military jackets and Escada pieces hiding in the stockroom (as well as a pink cadillac toy and phenomenal 60s platforms) so you will not be disappointed. The quality of everything here is second to none, and pieces are restored carefully. There's no fillers in this place. Not even a hint of god awful fancy dress. It's pure vintage love. Words & Images: Steph Coe www.walkthesand.blogspot.com

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BEAUTY

STEP ONE: Prep your skin using Arbonne RE9 Repair Eye cream, It minimises dark circles and hydrates the eye area avoiding wrinkles.

STEP TWO: Even out skin tone with Arbonne Primer, creating a flawless base and minimising fine lines. STEP THREE: Using a foundation brush, use Mac face and body foundation

STEP FOUR: In the inner corner of the eyes use Mac eyeshadow in ‘Fogery’. On the lids and under lower lashes use Mac Shadows in ‘Shale’ and ‘Shroom’. Maybelline master piece mascara in black.

STEP FIVE: Line water line with Bourjois White khol pencil.

STEP SIX: Mac blusher in ‘Breath of Plum’ STEP SEVEN: Mac lipstick in ‘Hue’

Words: Louise Ballantine Photo: Susan Castillo

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BEAUTY I’ve been what society deems a large and also have graced the holy land of the skinny. So when I first saw this image from V Magazine, something instinctively told me to immediately post it onto Facebook. I don’t know why, I just thought ‘Yes!’ So there I was, proudly uploading this image with great satisfaction, writing ‘OMG V Magazine shoot!’ beside it. I gazed at it for a bit, with vague trains of thought going through my head including all the weight issues I’d ever experienced, some High School cringe worthy memories of being that slightly ‘bigger’ or ‘curvier’ than the rest – adjectives that still ‘curvie leave a bad taste in my mouth, or is that because of my 2010 Atkins diet? Ketosis breath it’s called. Nice. But some memories were more triumphant! Like when pencils skirts came IN again and I realised my ‘big’ derriere actually could pull off this slinky number better than your average ‘put on a pedestal, size 0’. I guess something told me this image was one more little triumph against a world that worships one mould, and one mould only. Another little dig at the strict fashion shapes that everyone seems to conform to. For me fashion has become about not conforming. That is how designers push the boundaries for that fresh look isn’t it? Not when it comes to the clotheshorse it seems. I’d read a couple articles regarding this shoot, some describing it as a fashion ‘Moment’. Ha! I thought, how very generous of you all up there in the fashion elite, giving the rest of us average sizers a ‘Moment’ and then babbling on about big bras and not actually tackling this elephant in the room. Another article actually describes a movement, a shift away from the emaciated, ‘heroine chic’ as it was once called. Being an average or plus size has never been so out of fashion. I know I’m not the only average sized fashion lover, so I know other average sizers will relate when I say, that your friends, colleagues and most people around you would never tell you your fat, overweight or chubby, or unacceptable or even unfashionable! Yet I bet 90% of us would recoil at the sight of the bigger girl shoot above when actually they are technically bmi healthy. This is because we are being brainwashed everyday, bombarded by endless media coverage of skinny malinkies has falsely imprinted a perfect size in all our minds.

The Weighting Game Make Up Artist, KAELEIGH WALLACE tells us what’s on her mind when it comes to weighty issues in the fashion industry.

© V Magazine Our whole out look on shape and wellbeing is so misinformed, that this V Magazine documentation of a different form of healthiness is hard to swallow. Natural skinniness is also healthy, but the ‘heroine chic’ years have a lot to answer for. Are we not imaginative enough? Creative enough? Inspired enough? to have a whole other ‘voluptuous chic’ to take us through the next decade? That’s not to say out with the scrawny but rather, alongside? What with all the fashion world’s innovators, grandness, plain genius and endless talent, fashion weeks etc, how can they all be so ignorant to other types of healthy sizes? And why, when designer Mark Fast decides to use size 14/16 models, this is front page news? I want to see it become the norm and expected. To see spreads in certain elite fashion magazines that work on a pear shaped level as well as size 0 would be a dream come true for us average-sized fashion lovers! Little did I know when I posted up this image, that I would get to see the immediate effects in the form of comments from my Facebook friends. One thing is for sure, more average shapes and sizes can now hold the cards in the weighting game. 21 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010

Mark Fast S/S 10


INTERVIEW London Cons: I think it’s it just the distances between people and places really. One of my best friends lives in London, but she’s over two hours from me...I saw her more when I lived in Scotland! What most do you miss about Scotland? I never got to finish making a film with my friend James in Glasgow and if we’d had the time it would have been great! Of course, I miss my mom and the beautiful beach at Portobello. You are now Head of Press for Beyond Retro. You must meet some interesting people/get to go to fun events. Tell us about them.

Head of Press @ Beyond Retro

Fashion Week is always good, just getting to see the shows and interpret the trends for yourself. I love the excitement of the seeing three or four shows a day.

You decided to make the move from Edinburgh to London last year to pursue your career within the fashion industry. Describe what your working life was like while living in Edinburgh.

I organised for Beyond Retro to be in Selfridges this year, as part of The 90s Are Vintage. We were one of only two vintage stores to be involved, so I was really proud. Their launch party was fun, with lots of 90s people…Alex James from Blur was there.

Diana Kiernander

I enjoyed the freedom of being able to turn out my own projects more, as I had the time and also knew lots more people who would help with venues and stuff. But personally speaking, I always felt what I was trying to do was just a bit too avant garde for Edinburgh. I think they wanted something simpler and that got frustrating sometimes! What do you find to be the main differences living in London, pros and cons? London Pros: I can dress so inventively every day and no one really finds it strange. I can wear a prom dress on a rainy Tuesday if I care to and I won’t feel out of place. People want more theatre here, if anything!

My favourite bit so far was when I turned our East End store into a vintage cinema for the night. We had old fashioned gilt-edged velveteen gold chairs and cigarette girls serving popcorn from our old fashioned popcorn street cart. You are known as being a connoisseur of vintage clothing. What are your top tips for finding that perfect vintage buy? You don’t have to rummage long to find gold! I’m not that keen on rummaging, which might surprise people! I am instinctively drawn to pieces that I know are special and that would work on me. So my top tip would be to stick to your 22 THE COVETED MAG MARCH 2010

personal style, and stick to your instincts, even when looking for older pieces. Unless you are a collector, I wouldn’t advise picking something just because it is old if you are never going to wear it! I would also always look for rare pieces, as they are likely to be better made! I think when you find rare old clothes, they feel so much more like treasures. You get that feeling of excitement you got as a child, getting presents or new shoes, thinking it’s really unique and unusual! Is it possible to recreate runway looks using vintage? If so, what trend will you be buying into this season? Of course it’s possible. The past is where pretty much every designer gets their inspiration anyway, so if you wear vintage, you are going straight to the source! This year, yea I am less interested in the minimalist trend that is coming through and more likely to be exploring the woodland theme that has been played out so well by French designer, Charles Anastase. It’s hugely influenced by nature and the wild, with rich wools, fur and lots texture and bright colours. This will be easy to recreate at Beyond Retro, as we get a lot of our clothing from Canada and they have plenty of pieces to combat the cold weather out there! www.dianakiernander.com www.beyondretro.com


Issue 4 of The Coveted Mag  

Scotland's first and only fashion magazine dedicated to supporting and promoting The Scottish Fashion Industry

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