The Black Curriculum Presents: Hair Stories

ZINE

t s o r i r a h ies

Copyright ©The Black Curriculum CIC 2021 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (whether physical electronic or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

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TBC HAIR STORIES

INTRODUCTION

The Black Curriculum (TBC) is pleased to launch the second issue of our Zine. In this edition, we wanted to create a space that allowed young people to engage with social change in a creative and innovative way. We believe that the Zine will help improve social cohesion, bring people together, and to instil a sense of identity for young people in Britain, giving them the platform to play a genuine role in changing the British curriculum. We hope this edition will empower you with further knowledge about the beauty, versitility and all around magic of Black hair.

In this issue, we will be touching upon the two leading pioneers of Black hair business in the UK, various hairstyles and products commonly used in the African-Caribbean community, what beauty means being a Black hijab wearing Muslim woman and stories and insights from people in the hair industry and The Black Curriculum team.

We would like to say thank you to our artists, Rahana Dariah, Christina Peake and Britini Campbell who have helped to bring this issue to life.

We would like to extend special thanks to our special contributors; British marathon swimmer, Alice Dearing, hairstylists Charlotte Mensah and Karl Williams, swim caps and accessories brand, Soul Cap, hair discrimination organisation, Halo Code, and to all the hairdressers who have kindly donated their photographs to the zine and parents who we have spoken too.

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FOUNDER & CEO

LAVINYA STENNETT

Hey!

Lavi n ya

I know we’re all mostly relieved to be out in the fresh air again after a year - for us at TBC we are even more pleased to be back on your bookshelves and in your homes to kick off spring! We are giving you hair realness this time around, with content for you to cherish.

On behalf of our amazing team, I would like to thank you for supporting our ultimate goal of empowering all young people with a full sense of identity and belonging through Black history. We are buzzing to be able to give you our second Zine after our first one sold out in just 2 days! With wonderful ideas and designs from all our contributors to digest, we hope you enjoy reading and continue to empower one

another

through

understanding

knowledge of Black history and culture.

-- Lavinya Founder + CEO

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and

CONTRIBUTORS & ARTISTS

special contributors

contributors

SOUL CAP HALO CODE ALICE DEARING CHARLOTTE MENSAH KARL WILLIAMS

artists CHRISTINA PEAKE FRONT AND BACK PAGE RAHANA DARIAH ILLUSTRATIONS THROUGHOUT BRITINI CAMPBELL DURAG AND BEJEWELLED SERIES

hair shops @BRAIDSNCHILL @HAIRBYLIONESS_LOCSDOCTA @HEALTHYAFROHAIR @LONDONFAUXLOCS SLIDER CUTS YEMI’S BARBER SHOP ROMEO’S TRAINING AND BARBER SHOP DE VINE HAIR SALON CHIC UNIQUE UNISEX HAIR SALON JOANA’S HAIR ELITE MARCIA FERGUSON CEO YEMI SHEEN CEO

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LAVINYA STENNETT NATALIE RUSSELL ELESHEA WILLIAMS JÉSSICA SILVA CHANTELLE MINTA ADDIE TADESSE CHRISTINA PEAKE BENJAMIN MEARHART HALINA EDWARDS ILHAN RAYEN AWED BETHANY THOMPSON SAFFA KHALIL KWAME BOATENG AISHNINE BENJAMIN MELODY TRIUMPH SHANELLE ATABU BARBARA PHILLIPS SAHRA-ISHA MAJDOULINE EL HICHOU BENYAMIN RAKAYA FETUGA CHLOÉ ROBERTS MICHELLE WILLIAMS

thank you to DIANA OHENE-DARKO ALASKA ALASKA

CONTENTS

THE PIONEERS OF BLACK HAIR BUSINESSES IN BRITAIN 9 STYLES 10 BLACK HAIR AND SPORTS 14 HAIR INDUSTRY 22 PARENTS STORIES 28 HISTORY OF ALOE VERA AND SHEA BUTTER 34

HALIN A

WHAT BEAUTY MEANS TO ME 38

Hello!

TBC STAFF STORIES 50

My name is Halina, and I am Lead

HOW TO BEJEWEL YOUR HAIR & DURAG 54

It has been a fun few months put-

Designer, at The Black Curriculum.

ting this together, working with such an incredible team, artists and contributors. We hope that this

HAIR DICTIONARY 64

Zine inspires you, and gets you so excited to learn about this important part of history, as it was for me

HAIR & BEARD MASK RECIPES 68

and the team to research it. ⁣

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THE PIONEERS OF BLACK HAIR BUSINESS IN BRITAIN

len

DYkE

&

D L U D EY DRYD eN

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TBC HAIR STORIES

“The two entrepreneurs became knows for the effors in supporting community organisations that worked to tackle the lack of opportunities faced by the Windrush generation.”

Len Dyke and Dudley Dryden were a pioneering business partnership in the Black hair care and beauty industry. These two trailblazers started their rise in the 1960’s when it was rare for Black business to be owned by Black people. They were the first multi million pound Black business in the UK.

As their fame grew, their customer base Prior to their hair business, Dyke & Dryden

grew alongside it, growing from all parts

started of as a record distribution compa-

of the UK and beyond. The two entrepre-

ny and a travel agency. During the time

neurs became known for the efforts in sup-

where Black women were not visible in the

porting groups like the Standing Confer-

beauty industry, the company decided to

ence of West Indians, the Association of

concentrate on promoting hair and beauty

Jamaicans, and the UK Chamber of Com-

products, where they provided a range of

merce, and their commitment to communi-

products and services for the Black com-

ty organisations that worked to tackle the

munity in the 1960s.

lack of opportunities faced by the Windrush generation.

Their first shop on West Green Road, Tottenham, North London was successful in

The company expanded and opened ware-

the Black community. As they grew, they

houses and new branches where they

opened more branches, which allowed

competed in the international market. Their

them to compete in the international mar-

enterprise reached its height with the ‘Afro

ket, they also created the Miss Dyke &

Hair and Beauty Show’, one of the major

Dryden beauty contest.

international exhibitions at the time.

They went on to create an annual Afro Hair

Sadly, both men have passed, but their

and Beauty Expo In 1983. By the 1990s,

success lives on, being regarded as heroes

Dyke & Dryden was sold to an American

in the hair business industry.

competitor, in what was now a multi billion-pound Black hair and beauty industry.

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STYLES

e w a I r Y H W A DWRA MY HE P

BY MAJDOULINE EL HICHOU

I have always been fascinated by the power of aesthetics as resistance; how, over centuries, people chose specific ways and symbols to adorn and present themselves, whether as an act of subversion, resistance or cultural preservation. Growing up in Africa, I witnessed the beauty of head wraps all around me, in all their diversity of indigenous materials and styles; and I always saw so much magic in the people wearing them, independently from their gender. A deep political statement that doesn’t even need to be spoken out loud, a loud reclaiming of our history, and our own ancestral standards of beauty. And wherever I have been outside of Africa, carrying this cultural symbol of my ancestors and their resistance over my head has somewhat always connected me to souls who feel rooted in Africa, from all sides of the Atlantic.

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TBC HAIR STORIES

words by saffa khalil

Locks: a word to describe a hairstyle that Locks

refers to the locking of curly, kinky or coily natural hair. However, the word ‘dreadlock’ has historically, and even in recent times, been used as a derogatory term to describe the hairstyle as unkempt, untidy and ‘dreadful’. Given the contested nature of the term, we advise you to refrain from using it and opt for the word locs/locks instead when referring to the hairstyle. It should be noted that Rastafarians reclaimed the word, but if you do not identify as a Rastafarian or know the intricate history of the term, please refrain from using it.

@hairbylioness_locsdocta

words by kwame boateng

durags: In the 19th century the Du-

locks,

rag, in its earliest form, was used by en-

waves to be main-

slaved women in the Americas to protect

tained more easily.

their hair from the sun and hold it in place

Overall,

whilst labouring. Over time the Durag be-

Durag

came a haircare product to help cultivate

imbued

waves (mainly for men) and protect hair

with the

whilst sleeping. Additionally, it serves to

history

lock moisture and natural oils in Afro-Hair,

of

to protect Afro-Hair from the sun, and to

crossing and

stop hairstyles such as cornrows from

connotations. But it is also a functional,

coming loose in the night, to name a few.

protective hair product that allows for the

As far as protective purposes go, a silk Du-

restoration, care and maintenance of Af-

rag stops unwanted friction, allowing hair-

ro-hair.

styles such cornrows,

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twists

and

the is

the

Atlantic has deep cultural

STYLES

words by saffa khalil

braids: the intertwining of three or more hair strands together by putting them over each other.

twists: a hairstyle that consists of the dividing of your hair in one or multiple sections and then carefully twisting your hair strands together prior to combining two twisted hair strands together to achieve a final twist.

Braids

@braidsnchill

@joanashairelite

big chop: the big chop refers to the cutting off and or shaving off of previously chemically processed hair, although this is not always the case. The big chop is often used to allow someone to grow out their natural hair pattern from scratch and is a common beginning phase that many go through in their natural hair journey.

straightened hair: hair straightening refers to the temporary removal of a once natural coil to mimic straight and or wave-like like textured hair.

This can be hair that’s been flat-ironed, blow dried and silk-pressed, etc which is used to mimic straight and or wave-like textured hair.

straightened hair 12

TBC HAIR STORIES

pineapple: a hairstyle where all the hair is gathered upwards to the front of a person’s head in a loose and or high ponytail, resembling the top of a pineapple, often used to preserve curly hair through the night.

afro:

a hairstyle where natural kinky and or coily hair

is brushed/ and or combed upwards in a manner that frames a person’s head in a round shape.

PINEAPPLE bantu-knots:

a hairstyle that involves taking

small to medium large hair strands to form a twist which you then slowly twist around in one direction until a knot is formed. Speculated to have originated by the Zulu people in Southern Africa.

weave: the usage of either human and or synthetic hair extension weaved onto someone’s braided hair in any desired shape and/or style.

Cornrows

Bantu KNOTS cornrows: a continuous row of closely braided hair usually in either straight rows to the back or intricate patterns and signs laid as flat as possible to the scalp.

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illustrations by rahana dariah

BLACK HAIR AND SPORTS

M I M G W I N S

t i h W

n a c i r f E A B N B a RI A C

R I A H by alice dearing 14

TBC HAIR STORIES TBC HAIR STORIES It is an issue which so many Black women and men have spoken to me about over the years… “How do you manage your hair whilst swimming?” The answer is a complicated entanglement of self-growth, experimentation, experience and patience. A story full of many highs and lows, finally arriving at a place of self-love but still always finding room to grow deeper and gain more of an understanding of the barriers which may prevent Black people from certain activities.

Swimming and Afrihair

have

can-Caribbean

often

been viewed as

two things which

simply cannot

go together, of-

ten stopping

Black Brothers

and

from

sisters

going

swimming

or

perhaps

even learn-

ing

to

in the first

place.

swim There

are

who scoff at this ing that it is non-

sensical:

only hair.” But to those

“it’s

who have been

discriminated against

for

hair,

15

some

issue, imply-

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having

Afro

BLACK HAIR AND SPORTS

we know this isn’t the case. For us it’s

Once you’ve been swimming, try to rinse

not “only hair”, it’s a pride of our identity,

your hair out with water, wash and con-

a sign of our heritage, a symbol of cul-

dition and then use your hair products

ture in the many different ways it can be

as normal as you would after a wash

braided, twisted, and styled to reflect

day. Everyone’s hair will react differently

our personalities. Because of these rea-

to the water and some may feel theirs is

sons, it is understandable that we seek

drier for a few days after their swim.

to protect it since swimming in chlorine

Please don’t let this discourage you!

or saltwater causes damage. Whilst

Your hair will bounce back.

these waters may dry out Afro hair, there are many ways to protect it, trust

These tips are general guidance, I highly

me; I’ve been swimming for fifteen years

recommend getting in the water and

and this is doable!

seeing what works for you! As I mentioned before, my hair journey has in-

Firstly, protective styling is the best way

volved a wide range of experimentation

to ensure your hair stays protected from

from relaxing it (as we thought this

the water as much as possible. I have

would be easier to manage) to deciding

type 4a hair which is very thick but I

to get the big chop and go natural; the

braid it into 2-4 plaits before I swim. This

latter of which I found made my life so

helps me get and keep my swimming

much easier as my natural hair wasn’t as

cap on but most importantly keeps

hard to manage as I once thought. I

most of my hair away from the water.

hope you feel inspired to experience the water. Your hair does not need to stop

Next, search around for a swimming

you from that.

cap/head cover which works for you!

There are so many options out there with amazing brands, finding their own unique ways of breaking this barrier.

illustration by rahana dariah

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TBC HAIR STORIES

te

r

ai H s

i El

a' n a Jo

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@joanashairelite

470 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester M8 9JW 17

BLACK HAIR AND SPORTS

BRAND STORY

L U O CA S

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P

TBC HAIR STORIES

We’re Michael and Toks, and we’re the

Since 2017, we have shipped over 40,000

co-founders of SOUL CAP, a UK-based

premium silicone swim caps all over the

and Black-owned specialist swim brand.

world. They’re now endorsed by GB swimmer Alice Dearing, and they’ve been fea-

We both grew up without learning to

tured in Women’s Health and Refinery29.

swim. Swimming just wasn’t pushed as

But what really makes us unique is our

much as other sports and we had heard

community — we’re real people who love

myths that ‘Black people’s bones are too

to be connected with our customers.

dense for the water’ — we just didn’t think it was a sport meant for us.

We love creating products that solve problems, and we love being able to actually

As adults, we started taking lessons to-

make a difference – from supporting

gether in 2017, where we met a woman

groups like Empowered Swimming, having

with Afro hair who was struggling with her

a platform to promote inclusivity in the

cap. We realised there wasn’t a swim

sport we love, or opening conversations

brand making caps for people blessed

through our social media campaigns such

with voluminous hair — so we decided to

as #BlackGirlsDontSwim.

make our own.

soulcap.com

@soulcapofficial

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HAIR INDUSTRY

CHIC UNIQUE

W karl I LL S IA M interviewed by addie tadesse

TBC HAIR STORIES

early years

He allowed us to go off and explore our in-

I was born in London, but of Antiguan par-

terests of course. My eldest brother studied

entage. My parents came to the UK at the

business and shoe making, another was into

tail end of the Windrush Generation, some

cars, the youngest went into finance, and I

time in the late 1950s. They were only 14 and

was interested in architecture and fashion,

17 at the time.

so went on to study at The London School of Fashion. We all went off and did our vari-

My mother had already taken a course in

ous other studies. But ultimately, we would

hairdressing before coming to London, and

all end up back at the salon.

so she continued her trade. I remember she used to do press and circling at home on a

We didn’t just learn under my father, or else

Saturday, and we all got used to the smell of

that would’ve been too easy, so we took a

smoke in the house. My father worked as a

course. My first formal introduction to hair-

postman, although he soon decided that he

dressing was actually on European hair.

wanted to do more in life. Given that my

Once we had qualified, we went back to my

mother had a growing clientele at home, he

dads salon and then transferred some of

decided to take a course at the Morris

those principles onto Afro hair.

School of hairdressing at Tottenham Court Road, and spent some time studying in

Then in 1982 we left East London and went

America, to see how he could turn it into a

to South London, and opened up Ultimate

business. When he returned to London, he

Salon, above Brixton tube station. I would

opened their first salon in Dalston. My sib-

say that’s where we as a family made our

lings and I were all under the age of 10 at the

name in the education part of hairdressing,

time, and would spend our days helping out

as my father then opened up a hairdressing

at the salon. This was our first taste of being

school on the second floor of the shop. My

in the hairdressing business.

brother and I controlled the salon and took on students for work experience/training.

My siblings and I all had our own ideas of

Then in 1985, my mother, who’s salon was

what we wanted to do as a career. Although

was still in Dalston, packed up her bags and

I think my father had a master plan of steer-

came to Brixton, and that’s when Chic

ing us into the business, but without apply-

Unique was born. Chic Unique started off by

ing too much pressure.

what used to be the M&S, now TKMAXX,

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HAIR INDUSTRY

in a small unit at the back. Then in 1990, we moved to where we are now, on Acre lane.

We’ve been there for 31 years.

MOTIVATIONAL/INSPIRATIONAL I happen to be a Black stylist, but I am a hairstylist. I do hair, I just happen to be Black. I don’t only do Black hair. That for me is how I want to navigate through this industry. I don’t want to be defined by my colour, I want to be defined by my talent and my ability. That’s the message that I try to instil in the students that I have. I want to share my knowledge. One of the richest places on the planet is the graveyard. It sounds strange, but that’s where a lot of unfulfilled dreams and inventions are. Things that could’ve changed and shaped the world that died with them, because they didn’t dare to dream big enough or they were discouraged by people around them. I don’t want to be one of those people. I want to share with people.

setting a good example As business owners we have a responsibility to be a good example. We should be able to represent excellence, because we have it. We shouldn’t be ashamed to show off what we have. We sometimes play ourselves down, or feel like we have to ruff it a bit so we don’t look to be showing off. We need to be good examples of success and excellence, for the youngsters.

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TBC HAIR STORIES

Chic Unique Unisex 156 Acre Ln, Ferndale, London SW2 5UT

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HAIR INDUSTRY

GOOD HAIR

BY CHARLOTTE MENSAH

“The new year came around, and Mum

I seemed to be an alien from another

finally found me a school to attend. I

planet whose dark skin, short hair

was looking forward to going back

and Ghanaian accent became the

because I’d been popular at Harrow

butt of every joke. I went from a place

International and excelled at all my ex-

where people were very friendly and

ams. When it came to algebra and

hospitable to the opposite, where the

arithmetic, I knew all my times tables,

kids at Copeland chanted, ‘Where are

decimal points and fractions. I also

you from? You’re an African boo-boo

had an excellent understanding of the

. . . say that again? You’re an alien!’

English language. So, walking into

The day Mum sent me to school in a

Copeland High School in Wembley on

threaded hairstyle was probably the

the 5th of January 1982 was a shock

worst day of my life and the shapes

to the system. I felt as if I was walking

on top of my head were just another

into a United Colors of Benetton ad. It

confirmation of my extra-terrestrial

was unusual for me to be around kids

status. Girls at Copeland were sport-

who were Asian, West Indian or white.

ing cornrows and relaxers, with hair

I had assumed they would all look like

pushed back into sleek ponytails.

me, just as they had done in Ghana.

I found it hard adjusting to the culture

Not only did the kids look different,

shock of being in England, and often

they also called teachers by their first

came home in tears. Little did I know

name, and made fun of them behind

that one day I’d be responsible for

their backs or to their face. But the

bringing the style back on to the

biggest surprise was the amount of

map.”

bullying I faced as soon as I arrived.

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TBC HAIR STORIES

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PARENT STORIES

PARENT’S STORIES The Black Curriculum spoke to three parents about how they empower, encourage and teach their young children about their hair. Here is what they have to say...

michelle williams

My youngest has continued to have natural hair, allowing me to corn- row it back, re-

Being a professional hairstylist, natural

sulting in beautiful lengthy thick hair.

hair specialist & lecturer there is constant pressure for my girls to represent the skill

Social media perpetuates the images of

set I have. I express the importance of

‘western’ standards of beauty. A big part

taking care of their natural hair to present

of that is hair. Understandable then that

themselves well.

some young people do not want to wear

My girls are influenced by their school context. The eldest attends a less diverse school and wanted to perm her hair from a young age. Now she is facing the consequences of chemically changing her hair by manipulating it.

their hair more naturally.

We need to educate our young people on hair care and the importance of our hair as our heritage so that they grow up confident with the hair they have and embrace it!

She has since grown out her perm and takes care of her natural hair. Due to her being very creative she continues to play around with protective styling: crochet braids, braids, buns and age-appropriate wigs.

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TBC HAIR STORIES

chloÉ´´ roberts

benyamin

I have a beautiful three year old, mixed-

I have two mixed race sons of 11 and 15

race daughter, with type 3B/C curls. We

years, each with very different hair textures.

have daily routines for her hair which I have

The youngest has about three textures in

gone out of my way to learn.

different places. Both boys are very aware of their hair, hair care and identity.

I encourage my daughter to love her hair by reading her books she can relate to. We

The eldest has big flowing, soft curls. He

create hair styles to embrace curls. One of

takes a lot of pride in his hair and is going

her favourites is ‘big curls’- brushing it and

through an intense skin fade phase. He

leaving it out. On one occasion, a lady said,

leaves the top long and is very specific

“aww has the wind got to your hair today

about how often he washes it (once a

or hasn’t mummy combed it?” My daugh-

week). ‘Dad I don’t need to put chemicals

ter was confused. She didn’t understand

in my hair, water is fine, icy hair cleans its-

this comment. I was worried it could make

self’.

her feel insecure. She was so proud and happy to have her hair out. As a white

The youngest has tighter curls, he likes his

mum, if you’re having a lazy day (which we

hair big. All the kids at school used to want

all have!), and her hair isn’t in the funkiest

to touch it, perhaps because his hair is ap-

of styles, people’s perception is that I hav-

pealing and represents who he is. His dis-

en’t done her hair. The opposite is true- it

like for this caused him to grow it big and

takes more care to leave her curls out than

out for all to see! His sense of pride is won-

have them in bobbles or clips.

derful. Having been with his mum for some years and her having natural hair, making

For the most part, she gets wonderful,

oils, using natural Ghanaian products, this

positive comments. I want her to know

is normal for our sons. I have always been

what a blessing her hair is and how beauti-

involved in the hair care routines for our

ful she is, no matter how she wears it.

sons and still am, with brushing, conditioning and cutting.

illustration by rahana dariah 29

HALO CODE

HALO CODE “We are here to fight for the celebration of Black hair, in all its forms and in all settings so Black people can live freely from hair discrimination.”

The Black Curriculm spoke to Halo Code, a youth-led collective of organisations and individuals working to create a future without hair discrimination. Here is what they have to say...

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TBC HAIR STORIES

Unkempt. Messy. Disruptive. These are just

to prioritise health and maintenance with-

some of the words I’ve heard to describe

out fear of unwarranted discipline for not

Afro-textured hair. And I’m angry.

abiding to western, eurocentric beauty standards. As of now, this has led to ap-

That’s why I, alongside 20 other Activists

proximately 35 schools and over 100 work-

from The Advocacy Academy, a social jus-

places adopting the code including Marks &

tice movement in South London, decided to

Spencer’s, Procter & Gamble, and Unilever.

take action. So, we formed The Halo Collective.

We at Halo envision a world where those with Afro-textured hair are proudly able to

We are constantly told that our hair tex-

wear their hair out in an array of styles and

tures and styles are inappropriate and un-

be wholly accepted for it, without the re-

professional for working environments -

percussion of a lack of progress in the

and we’re tired of it. After being sent out of

workplace - or punishment in school. No

classrooms and limited in our careers we

longer will those of us with Afro-textured

are fighting for the Equality Act of 2010 to

hair feel the need to “hide” it or be per-

properly recognise our hair (or, halos - we

ceived as unprofessional.

are angelic after all) as protected characteristics, to avoid further discriminatory atti-

For this to become a reality it is important

tudes and renounce the stigma surrounding

to join our fight, through our three-part

Afro-textured hair.

campaign strategy. We want to Slay the Stigma, Fix Up the Law and ensure as

So, what have we done to change this? To-

many places as possible Adopt the Code.

gether we wrote the UK’s first anti-racist

How will you join the Black Hair revolu-

uniform code for school. This is a policy that

tion?

celebrates Afro-textured hair, instead of leg-

#AdoptTheCode #FixUpTheLaw

islating against it. The Halo Code gives stu-

#SlayTheStigma

dents and employees the chance to embrace their cultural, racial and religious identities, whilst allowing hair to be styled

halocollective.co.uk

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Christina Peake ‘Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder’

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THE FIRST AID PLANT

O E L A V E RA

BY CHRISTINA PEAKE Aloe Vera, or the First Aid Plant, has

Today, Aloe Vera in its rawest form,

been cultivated for thousands of years

freshly broken from the ground, has

with a transnational popularity from

been commonly used for hair care

East to Southern Asia, to South Africa

within African and Caribbean com-

and the Caribbean. Most are familiar

munities. The earliest records appear

with the clear gel hidden within the

in the ‘Ebers Papyrus’, by various au-

leaves, known for its diverse proper-

thors, dating back to 1550 BC. This is

ties such as: antibacterial, antioxidant,

in addition to the ‘De Materia Medica’

antiseptic and antiviral. It is also there-

by Pedanius Dioscorides from 50-75

fore known for treating inflammatory

CE (Greek) and the Juliana Anicia Co-

skin conditions and burns. But a sec-

dex from 512 AD (Roman), all of which

ond, well-known product is harvested

include treaties on herbalist and me-

from aloe- latex, which sits just be-

dicinal practices.

neath the skin of the plant.

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TBC HAIR STORIES

The ‘Ebers Papyrus’, named after

titled, ‘The Book of Hearts’ document-

Georg Ebers who purchased the pa-

ing

pyrus in Luxor between 1873 to 1874,

illnesses and their countermeasures.

now resides in the University of Leip-

Within the beauty and skincare indus-

zig, Germany. This Eygptian medical

try we are seeing increasing reference

papyrus or in contemporary terms

made to ecological, ethical, sustaina-

‘paper’, of herbal medical knowledge

ble and organic processes and prac-

is the most important and oldest sur-

tices

viving text from this time totalling 110

tion

pages and 20 metres. It is thought

it should

mental

in

health

the

disorders

and

selling and crea-

of

products. However, be acknowledged

that this is a compilation of even ear-

that

not

lier texts of hieroglyphic Eygptian

only

have

writing, and the best

these prac-

preserved record

tices

of

embedded

ancient

been

Eygptian

w i t h i n

medicine

many cul-

known to

t u r e s

include 7

0

around

0

the

magical

when cultivat-

formulas and

world

ing local natural re-

remedies,

sources for thousands of

including contraception

years but that they continue to be

and treatments for diabetes. This text

pioneered within the field, sharing

not only includes a treatise on the

and evolving indigenous knowledge

heart but also a chapter

and methodologies.

35

TREE OF LIFE

SHEa BUTTER

BY CHRISTINA PEAKE

Shea butter, the whipped non-toxic com-

but in general was used to protect skin

prehensive moisturiser, which translates to

from the hot sun and dry winds of the Sa-

ultra soft and gentle, is perfect for those

hara desert.

with sensitive skin conditions such eczema and psoriasis. Shea butter is

The word ‘Shea’ origi-

harvested from the nut

nates from the word

of the Karite tree, also

‘s’i’ in the Malian

known as the Mangi-

Bamana language,

folio or Tree of Life.

although there are

Cultivated

across

many references to

West and Central sub

the Karite nut across

Saharan Africa, its de-

these territories. Shea

rivatives have been in-

butter

cluded within an extraordinary

array

of

beauty

culture

reflected

in-

clude being antimicrobial, and

an excellent emollient, con-

skincare products for centuries. Eygptian

properties

a

taining vitamins A and E (anti-aging)

sophisticated

and F (healthy skin and protection); it reju-

knowledge of natural remedies including

venates and hydrates skin, maintains elas-

the use of Shea butter, rumoured to be a

ticity, soothes dry skin and inflammatory

favourite of Cleopatra and Nefertiti,

skin conditions, and provides UV protection.

36 36

TBC HAIR HAIR STORIES STORIES TBC

Shea butter, the whipped non-toxic comprehensive moisturiser, which translates to ultra soft and gentle, is perfect for those with sensitive skin conditions such eczema and psoriasis. Shea butter is harvested from the nut of the Karite tree, also known as the Mangifolio or Tree of The Black Curriculum actively works to ”Be sure you look for the badges Life. Cultivated across West and Central sub Saharan Africa, its derivacontribute to community cohesion by pro- or icons on products and packtives have been included within an extraordinary array of beauty and moting a sense of belonging and empow- aging that speak of this care skincare products for centuries. Eygptian culture reflected a sophistiwithin trade and support thriverment in Black children and young peocated knowledge of natural remediesing including the use of Shea butter, economies” ple. We have seen historically that the rumoured to be a favourite of Cleopatra and Nefertiti, but in incredible wealth within the African congeneral was used to protect s k i n from tinent has led to a long history of exthe hot sun and dry winds of t h e traction and colonisation.

Sahara desert.

“We can learn how to adThe word ‘Shea’ originates dress and develop ethical from the work ‘s’i’futures in the Maliand sustainable for an Bamana language, alall...we can do this is by acthough seeking there are reftively tomany support communities outside erences to the Karite the nut UK” these territories. Shea

across butter prop-

However, in learning about

in great demand across the world are

the past, we can learn how to

paid appropriately is essential in addi-

address and develop ethical and sustaina-

tion to sourcing these products from UK

ble futures for all. One way we can do this

businesses observing environmental, ethi-

is by actively seeking to support communi-

cal and sustainable practice. Be sure you

ties outside the UK by our actions within

look for the badges or icons on products

the UK. The process of extracting and pro-

and packaging that speak of this care

cessing shea butter even in its rawest form

within trade and support thriving econo-

is intensive. Ensuring that those individuals

mies, entrepreneurship and aspiration at

and communities creating such products

home and around the world.

37 37

WHAT BEAUTY MEANS TO ME

t A H W

T U Y A E B EANS M To

ME

black a s a ring h mu ijab wea sli m woman interviewed by ilhan rayen awed 38

TBC HAIR STORIES

In my Somali household I grew up seeing

more frequent with intersectionality being

different styles of braiding, protective hair-

an important part of the discussion. Rep-

styles, and the wearing of silk scarfs. How-

resentation is crucial as it can shape the

ever the emphasis was more about the

way in which individuals or communities

beauty within myself, my family, my cul-

are viewed by society and how we also

ture, and religion as opposed to outward

view ourselves. This applies directly to the

beauty. Although no one saw my hair, the

hair and beauty community.

women in my family always taught me to take care of my hair as a form of

As hijab wearing Black Muslim

selfcare. For every ‘but no one is

women, do we have space within

going to see it’ there was ‘so’ in

both the hair and beauty commu-

reply.

nities?

Before prominent Black

Now a woman in my 20s, I

hijab wearing public

think deeply about the con-

figures such as Hali-

nection

ma Aden, Ibtihaj Mu-

beauty standards and ob-

hammad and Neelam

serving Muslim require-

Gill as well as the

ments of modesty. As

many youtubers so-

between

Black

Muslim women, we often

cial media influencers,

walk a fine line between ex-

the representation that

pressing ourselves whilst also

existed for Black Muslim hi-

trying to maintain true to our re-

jabis in mainstream media was slim to

ligion. That is why so often, modesty and

none. I had Muslim role models and I had

beauty looks very different for everyone.

Black woman I looked up to, however there

There is no one size fits all for the way that

were no individuals who reflected both

Muslim women dress. Here I interview two

identities.

pioneering hijab wearing Black Muslim women who share their own sincere and

In the last couples of years, conversations

honest feelings in relation to hair, beauty,

regarding representation have become

and representation.

39

WHAT BEAUTY MEANS TO ME

Meet RAKAYA FETUGA, a poet, facilitator and events producer based in London. Here she speaks about identity, faith, and her monodrama ‘Unbraided’.

what does hair & hair care mean to you?

how does lack of representation make you feel?

I think hair care is so important. A big part

I feel like it’s something that you kind of

of my life probably is dedicated haircare.

realise as an afterthought. And like, some-

You know, wash days and moisturising and

times I look back. I realise how deprived I

protective styles and moisture retention.

was of certain representations. That was

So a lot of thought goes into it, a lot of

just a result of being surrounded by white

time goes into it. A big turning point for

people and seeing only white representa-

me was going to uni because I lived out

tion, and seeing non-Muslim representa-

away from home and I realised how reliant

tion on TV and magazines, so I’ve wrote a

I had become on my mom and hairdress-

one woman show on monodrama called

ers to do my hair. And so that was a real

‘Unbraided’. It’s about growing up in Lon-

coming of age moment for me when I was

don as a Black Muslim girl, and it’s kind of

you know, playing around with my hair a

a coming of age tale about one girl learn-

bit more and watching loads of YouTube

ing to cainrow her hair. It’s all about identi-

videos, tutorials, and trying to learn differ-

ty. The character talks about how little

ent styles and how to best take care of my

things like how magazines would give little

hair myself.

makeup gifts that couldn’t suit her, her skin type, and her complexion. How she

That was really empowering for me as well

wasn’t thought of, and how she’s living in a

because I’m someone with a sensitive

society that she is marginalised and side-

scalp, sensitive skin, and just being able to

lined.

do my own hair from start to finish with the gentleness and the thoroughness that I liked was a great empowering point of independence for me. And a way of selfcare, definitely.

40

"I think my beliefs kind of teach me to be accepting and appreciative and loving of everything that Allah has created."

ra kaya fetuga TBC HAIR STORIES

41

WHAT BEAUTY MEANS TO ME

do you feel like black muslim women have space, or are represented accuratley within the hair and beauty community?

I feel like Black Muslim women are not represented in the hair industry specifically.

But then my question is do they need to be, because as long as you can see some-

something with these kinds of industries where you’re being used for a company, rather than using your voice to put a message forward. It’s very easy to be tokenized.

what do you want people to take away from 'unbraided', your one woman show?

one who’s got a similar hair type to you, it

First and foremost, it’s for other Black

doesn’t really matter about, you know, reli-

women and girls. Also Muslim women and

gion or creed. So, yeah, it’s kind of some-

girls as well. So I’d love for them to feel

thing that’s outside of religion. But I sup-

seen and heard and recognise that

pose in conversations about hair, then it

there’s

would make sense to also include Black

through similar things and who

Muslim women, if you’re talking about

have had similar thoughts and

Black hair. In the beauty industry, I think

experiences. So I’d like it to be a

there’s been a kind of shift. Yeah, there’s

warming, uplifting experience

been a shift, where a lot of Muslim women

for them.

other

people

who

go

are included, Black Muslim women as well, whether or not there, they’re being used in

be tokenized in the beauty industry. And

how does your beliefs affect your ideas of beauty, and the way you present yourself?

we saw with like, Halima Aden’s whole mo-

I think my beliefs kind of teach

ment of speaking up and speaking out that

me to be accepting and apprecia-

she didn’t feel comfortable with how she

tive and loving of everything that Al-

was being used as a model, and she felt

lah has created. So that we should love

she wasn’t being true to herself. That’s

all our natural states.

a way that they agree with or feel that representation has been. I feel like it’s easy to

42

43

WHAT BEAUTY MEANS TO ME

sah ra -isha 44

TBC HAIR STORIES

Meet SAHRA-ISHA, a researcher, writer, and advertising freelancer. She is a running coach founder of ASRA Club; a safe and inclusive space centering Muslim women in sports with the aim to unlock their inner athlete.

what does beauty mean to you?

I’d say beauty for me… It works both ways, I think internal beauty, outer beauty, but they both interlink. Especially if you’re being like a Black Muslim woman. I feel that I’ve had to learn to love myself from within.

"knowing that there's a space for you in the black hair community is quite beautiful.

You're still part of that community"

And even when you love yourself, outward-

tance of looking after yourself, the impor-

as a black muslim woman who chooses to cover her hair, do you feel that black women have a space or are represented within the hair and beauty community?

tance of having, you know, a good charac-

No, not really. You know, I’d say I kind of

ter having no intentions.

got that idea of representation from the

ly, there’s this importance of bettering yourself within. This is very interesting how Islam kind of poses beauty and the impor-

people around me, my auntie’s my mom,

"There's beauty in making mistakes and learning from them."

my grandmother, my friends. And that was enough representation for me, especially growing up. But also hairdressers, I’d say that the hair community is inclusive. There

Through learning more about Islam, I’ve

are few hairdressers that I’ve seen popping

been able to love myself more. And I think

up where, if they know there’s a woman

you see that all around us, you know, with

that wears a hijab, they will close off the

your friends and your family, someone

area, have a curtain. There’s one place I

compliments us saying “Mashallah”. I think

used to go to, and every Wednesday, it

this is always linking it back to Islam and

would just be for women that cover their

linking it back to our love for Allah. And

head. I think that idea of just knowing that

that’s a really beautiful thing. It’s a journey,

there’s a space for you in the Black hair

it’s been a journey. The closer I get to my

community is quite beautiful. You’re still

game, the more I’m loving myself, both in-

part of that community.

side and outside as well.

45

WHAT BEAUTY MEANS TO ME

you think about representation through a community lens more than mainstream media. why do you think that is?

where do you go for beauty and inspiration ideas?

Because of how much I’ve been supported

just like for sisters that have locks for ex-

and how much I have learned about myself

ample or wanted to grow their hair or treat

and grown through community groups, I’m

their hair. It was just really nice to be able

such an advocate for that. I think time and

to ask questions to a hair specialist. That

time again, mainstream media just seem to

page is amazing. Also AJ’s Bonnets, be-

get it wrong, but we know why they’re get-

cause looking after your hair and wearing a

ting it wrong, because they’re not includ-

cap to bed is so important. Maybe some-

ing us. They’re not really listening to us

times I should listen to that more… but it’s

when we’re in those spaces. How much

really nice to see a Black Muslim woman

freedom do we have even if we are in those

creating bonnets for other Black Muslim

spaces? Because we’re not necessarily

women or Black women in general, and

leading, and we’re not the ones that are

just seeing us, occupying spaces.

One instagram page called @4c_hijabi.

They did a talk once and it was so helpful

heading in the decisions made. Are we in those rooms, having those conversations ly. I think that doesn’t take away from the

is there any advice you would give to any young hijab wearing black muslim women?

people that are doing the hard work be-

Your journey is yours and only for you, and

cause they need to be supported by us. I

you shouldn’t compare it to nobody else.

just always go back to community groups,

There’s beauty in making mistakes and

and it’s just a lot more authentic and beau-

learning from them. Find people around

tiful to be amongst people that are work-

you that share the journey with you as well.

ing hard and have the same values.

It shouldn’t be a personal one. I think it’s

and making those final decisions? Not real-

"Your journey is yours and only for you, and you shouldn't compare it to nobody else."

quite easy to feel like your hair journey is just a personal one. Don’t forget you can talk to other people.

46

Deleted by Rakaya Fetuga: I will not be deleted no matter how strong your hate or how intense your jealousy I don’t have time for flaming no energy for enemies

Me and my tribe are more than pixels our beauty’s too big for your screen we’re high defined, hearts sublime original warrior queens

We make swords out of eyeliner wings slay every hate word in the DMs we fuel up on positive things rumours turn to dust when we see them

We take the ink from insults and use it as mascara we take bad days and bad vibes that think that they can scar us to make something new to make something healing it’s with love and with honesty that words find their meaning comments can’t keep me down when my future is gleaming and my heart’s full of colours I’m authentic and free so I will never be ashamed to be me.

47

W HO sAY S R A N E L ING N A C 't E BF U ?

N TBC SPRINGBOARD PROGRAMME

48

TBC HAIR STORIES

National Springboard Programme 2021/2 The Springboard is live and now open for bookings for July - November sessions 2021.

The Springboard Programme is for young people aged 11-16 and will run across the UK in London, Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool and Bristol. Learn Black history through the lens of music and explore the genres of afrobeats, reggae and much more, and make some new friends!

Join us for a Saturday session in a city of your choice by registering your interest here: www.theblackcurriculum.com/springboard Please note that the sign up form must be completed by a parent or guardian on behalf of the nominated young person(s).

49

TEAM STORIES

I began by pleading with my mother to let

of ‘normal’. Hair is central to Black female

me get my hair relaxed. Countless hours of

narratives, allowing us to be placed, but

straightening over the years left me with

also misplaced. This notion of misplace-

both frazzled hair and a particularly painful

ment is one that Black women are too of-

bout of tennis elbow. Growing up in a pre-

ten faced with, particularly when trying to

dominantly white area in Surrey meant I

navigate institutional and social spaces

was scarcely exposed to anything resem-

that are all too often dominated by people

bling natural Afro-textured hair, let alone

who have never had to face discrimination

its beauty. Constant remarks from class-

because of their hair.

mates about my hair smelling strange (because of the products I used) or exchanged

I found my solace both in Paks (a cosmet-

looks of surprise that I only washed it once

ics store catering specifically to women of

a week only furthered my belief that to

colour), and the Black hairdressers. Seeing

permanently straighten it – emulating my

rows of brightly coloured bottles with

more highly favoured girlfriends – would

women that looked like me marked a cru-

be the solution to my problems.

cial moment in the way I saw myself. These products didn’t promise to fix, smooth or

It was only until recently that the local sec-

tame my curls, but instead to enhance

ondary school listed cornrows as an exam-

them, and make them coilier, shinier,

ple of prohibited ‘extreme’ hairstyles in its

bouncier. All this at half the price of the line

uniform policy. When my classmates came

at Boots. Paks did not punish Black hair,

back from their summer holidays with

but embraced it. It didn’t, like Boots, have

braids and were punished, they were able

one separate shelf for hair like mine, but a

to simply default back to their natural hair.

whole shop dedicated to it.

I, on the other hand, had to find a hairstyle that would be deemed ‘unextreme’, but at

Education is a start to solving all ignorance.

the expense of both my personal and cul-

Learning about the importance of different

tural identity.

hair styles in Black culture, hair discrimination and hair as empowerment are key to

Externally Black hair continues to be pun-

understanding and celebrating racial dif-

ished, in the workplace, in school, and in

ferences. I hope this zine will be a tool to

society, considered outside the realm of

start, continue and add to your journey.

50

TBC HAIR STORIES

getting to r e o h s o t t by eleshea williams

51

TEAM STORIES

b r m acing E r y o m o ts by shanelle atabu

52

TBC HAIR STORIES

I’ve been reflecting on my love-hate rela-

When I recount the stories that weave to-

tionship with my head of natural hair and

gether the tail of my tresses, they are laden

the significance of Afro hair as more than

with negativity. However, I’ve had my fair

just a fashion statement, but as a symbol

share of Black-hair positivity. Yet nearly

of beauty, power and revolution. The intro-

every “I love your hair!” is coupled with a

duction of a nationwide lockdown brought

dubious “Is it all your own?” followed al-

more than just your average hair-mare. For

most inevitably by the dreaded “Can I

the last five years, I’ve relied on family

touch it?”. Perhaps you still can’t see the

friends to braid, twist, weave, sew and

negative. Perhaps you think people are just

straighten my frizz. With a ban on mixing

being kind and showing an interest in my

households, it brought genuine dread (and

individuality? How often do we walk up to

not of the lock nature).

a white person, question whether they’re a natural blonde and ask to stroke their

Born in the 90s to a Scottish mother and

head? It’s this constant level of scrutiny re-

Ghanaian father, minority ethnic groups

served only for Black and mixed-race Brits

equated to a grand total of 2% of Scot-

that leaves us feeling like we don’t belong.

land’s population! For me, ‘Afro hair care’

Couple this scrutiny with a complete ab-

was a bottle of Luster’s Pink Lotion and

sence of Black education in wider society,

tears while my mum dragged a hot comb

and you’ll find little prepubescent me des-

through my coils. Not quite the £88 million

perate to force the kink out of my follicles.

UK industry it is today. Back then British media was awash with white women with

African-Caribbean hair has a rich history

long, straight blonde hair. Even across the

and I try to remind myself of its signifi-

pond our Black role models conformed to

cance and beauty when I’m having a ‘bad

a European standard of beauty with re-

hair day’. It took me decades, but I’ve since

laxed hair and thick weaves.

educated myself on how to properly care for what I’d believed was unprofessional

To credit my mother, a lack of representa-

and ugly. Scotland still has a long way to

tion didn’t stop her from embedding pride

go before we see equality in the hair indus-

in my heritage re-braiding my baby ’fro

try. Despite this, I now truly accept my

week after week. Neither of us were pre-

Black history through appreciation Cele-

pared for the special attention and dis-

bration of my crown of curls.

crimination I would face over and above my melanin levels.

53

HOW TO BEJEWEL YOUR HAIR AND DURAG

HOW TO BEJEWEL YOUR HAIR AND DURAG

BY BRITINI CAMPBELL

DURAG STYLE ONE 54

TBC HAIR STORIES

55

HOW TO BEJEWEL YOUR HAIR AND DURAG

BRITINI CAMPBELL

DURAG STYLE TWO

56

TBC HAIR STORIES

57

HOW TO BEJEWEL YOUR HAIR AND DURAG

BEJEWELLED

58

TBC HAIR STORIES

59

TBC RECOMMENDS

tbc recommends Find selected resourced choosen by the TBC team to engage, teach and entertain you.

TV New Creatives - Afro Hair Rituals (BBC Arts) Community Centre (BFI Player) Divide and Rule - Never! (BFI Player) Hair Power: Me and my Afro (All 4) Skin (Netflix) Back to Natural: A Documentary Film Desmond's (All 4) The Real McCoy Tiffany Haddish Reads "I Love My Hair" (Netflix) Lupita Nyong'o Reads "Sulwe" (Netflix)

'desm

60

ond 's'

TBC HAIR STORIES

Books Don't Touch my Hair by Emma Dabiri, Good Hair by Charlotte Mensah Brit(ish) by Afua Hirsch, Taking Up Space by Chelsea Kwakye and Ore Ogunbiyi Hair Love by Matthew Cherry (Author) Sulwe by Lupita Nyong'o and Vashti Harrison, Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichi, Hair Like Mine by Latashia M. Perry 'don't touch my hair' by emma dabiri

Exhibitions

PODCASTS

Lubaina Himid, Tate Modern Bruce Onobrakpeya, Tafeta Vortic Edition, Addis Fine Art Quilla Constance, 198 Contemporary Arts and Learning Sharif Persaud, Autograph ABP Lynette Yiadom-Boakye, Tate Britain Zanele Muholi, Tate Modern Reflections on Public Realm, Iniva

Black Gals Livin’ - Victoria Sanusi and Jasmine Braithwaite Gurls Talk - Adwoa Aboah In Good Company - Otegha Uwagba The Sista Collective - Jessie Aru-Phillips, Letitia George, Aminata Kamara and Simone Riley.

Growing up with Gal-Dem - various hosts Journal Hijabi - Sereen Qader The Beautystack Podcast - Sharmadean Reid

FILms Rocks, Sarah Gavron (2020) Lizard, Akinola Davies Jr. (2020) Ojumo Ti Mo, Simisolaoluwa Akande (2019) Self Made (2020) Omega Rising, D. Elmina Davis (1988) Fatherhood, Iggy London (2017) London Line No 373 (1971) Hair Love Animation (2019) Pressure, Horace Ové (1975) Burning an Illusion, Menelik Shabazz (1981) Lovers Rock, Steve McQueen (2020) We Do What We Can, Kwaku Awuku-Asabre (2019)

'rocks'

61 illustrations by rahana dariah

@devinebrides

@braidsnchill

@londonfauxlocs @hairbylioness_locsdocta

62

@sliderc

@healthyafrohair

ta

63

@slidercuts

HAIR DICTIONARY

hair dictionary by saffa khalil Find terms and terminology to expand your knowledge on Afro-Caribbean hair.

afro-pick:

a narrow comb with long

co-wash:

the washing your hair with the

wide teeth patented in 1969 by two African

sole usage of conditioner. Many shampoos

Americans Samuel H. Bundles Jr and Hen-

consist of products that are drying and or

ry M. Childrey. The comb was designed to

damaging towards natural hair as they strip

allow penetration onto the scalp to dig out

the hair from its natural oils leaving it prone

hair from the roots to enable it to stretch it

to breakage, hence the popularity of

out in any desired shape or form.

co-washes in the natural hair community.

clarifying:

coily:

stripping your hair and or

Similarity to kinky hair, curly hair is

scalp from a buildup of previously used

angular zig-zag shaped hair. The main dif-

hair products and or oils that have accu-

ference is that unlike kinky hair, coily hair is

mulated over the span of days and or

more coiled up meaning that the curls pre-

weeks. This can be done in a variety of dif-

senting themselves in a spiral form coiling

ferent ways such as using a clarifying

into each other giving a more compat look.

shampoo, a co-wash and even an apple cider vinegar rinse.

64

TBC HAIR STORIES

the most com-

TYPE 1: Straight hair - hair ranging from a

monly used chart to help understand and

more fragile and bone straight texture with

categorize the many different hair types

minimal waves.

hair typing system:

that exist within the natural hair communi-

TYPE 2: Wavy - hair ranging from a smooth

ty was created by Andre Walker.

and thin like texture to a more wiry/frizzy Although opinions vary on the need to cat-

like texture.

egorise natural hair in different boxes and binaries, the typing system has gained a lot

TYPE 3: Curly hair - hair ranging from loose

of popularity. The chart is not exclusive to

curls to more dense spiral-like curls.

just curly/kinky and or coily hair but rather tries to ‘define’ all hair types.

TYPE 4: Kinky hair - hair ranging from compact coils to z/s angled coils.

65

HAIR DICTIONARY

hair wraps:

pieces of cloth often in silk

and or satin-like fabric used to effectively

from using it as it can still be considered offensive.

wrap curly/kinky and or coily hair as either an aesthetic hair accessory or used as a

NATURAL HAIR: hair

protective hairstyle. Hair wraps can be

laxers, perms and texturizers. In simpler

styled in an array of different manners.

terms natural hair essentially just refers to

Read more about hair wraps and their ori-

non chemically manipulated hair which al-

gin and usage on page 10.

lows the hair to present itself in its natural

that is free from re-

form. Often in reference to

KINKY:

kinky and or curly

tightly knit coiled an-

hair.

gular zig-zag hair. Kinky only refers to the visual depiction of the hair and by no means

PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES:

refers to how the hair behaves and or feels.

this refers to a

NAPPY:

variety of differ-

a derog-

ent hairstyles used

atory term used

to

to describe Afro like hair texture.

tors such as constant

to com-

pare Black people’s hair to that of livestock. The word nappy should never be used in a context where non-Black people use it to describe Black people’s hair. In recent years there has been a reclaiming of the word by the Black community. Howev-

afro/

from damaging fac-

Historically this term has been used

protect

curly textured hair

manipulation, tension and weather elements. An example of popular protective hairstyles is box braids. This hairstyle aims to tuck the ends of one’s hair away in braids to protect it which is an essential element of many protective hairstyles.

er, non-Black people should refrain

66

TBC HAIR STORIES

@slidercuts texture:

the appearance, consistency

and or feel of someone’s hair.

WAVES:

a hairstyle in which the hair is

combed/brushed and or flatten out into a pattern that mimics ‘waves’ in a ripple-like

refers to a phase/

pattern. This hairstyle is commonly seen in

stage during some people’s natural hair

people with shorter curly/coily and or

journey. Here, a person who previously had

kinky hair.

transitioning:

chemically processed curly/kinky and or coily hair is slowly growing out their hair-

WIGS:

before cutting off their processed ends.

ther artificial/synthetic and or natural hu-

This journey often includes staying away

man hair to either enable the covering of

from treatments that further manipulate

someone’s full and or partial head. Often

their natural hair as they transition to their

used as protective styles in the natural hair

natural curl pattern.

community and to switch up someone’s

an head accessory made out of ei-

look without damaging their natural hair.

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HAIR AND BEARD MASK RECIPES

FOR YOUR HAIR

BY MELODY TRIUMPH AND SAFFA KHALIL

Find homemade recipes for your hair and beard formulated by The Black Curriculum team.

HOT OIL TREATMENT (PRE-POO TREATMENT - PRIOR TO WASHING HAIR) Adds moisture & helps with breakage

Ingredients

INSTRUCTIONS

3 tablespoons of coconut oil

1. Boil some hot water, pour it into a large

3 tablespoons of almond oil 1 tablespoon avocado oil

bowl (heat proof bowl) 2. Place a smaller bowl inside of it (one that

1/2 tablespoon black Jamaican castor oil

is heat proof) and combine all the oils together until melted 3. Test the oil on the back of your hand before applying to your scalp and hair.

4. If temperature is okay, proceed to submerge your hair in it (work in sections) and massage oil thoroughly through your hair.

5. Wrap your hair with a shower cap/heatcap /cling film for 30-60 minutes before washing out hair with shampoo or proceeding with your normal hair wash routine.

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HAIR AND BEARD MASK RECIPES

FOR YOUR BEARD DIY BEARD OIL MIX INGREDIENTS

INSTRUCTIONS

make sure all oils are COLD PRESSED

Mix oils together, put into an

Coconut oil

applicator or dropper bottle,

Extra virgin olive oil

apply to ends first daily.

Almond oil Applicator bottle/Dropper bottle

DIY Beard Hot oil treatment

Ingredients

(before washing)

Coconut oil

To prevent breakage

Almond oil Shea butter

Instructions 1. Boil some hot water, pour it into a large bowl (heat proof bowl) 2. Place a smaller bowl inside of it and put shea butter in and let it melt.

3. Once shea butter has semi melted, place in coconut oil 4. Once coconut oil and shea butter have melted, mix in almond oil 5. Test temperature on back of hand once mixed. If the temperature is okay, work the butter and oil mixture through damp hair.

6. Leave on for 30-60 minutes 7. Rinse out, then continue with normal beard care washing routine

illustrations by rahana dariah

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the first edition of our zine

Front cover: Jazz Grant In the first edition of The Black Curriculum Zine, we discuss the history of Notting Hill Carnival and the founding pioneers - sharing traditional Caribbean recipes, personal stories, and insight on other carnival events that are celebrated in the UK. Special contributors include: survivor and Grenfell United committee member, Zoë Dainton, author and historian, Colin Grant, and radio and television presenter, Clara Amfo.

Artists featured: Jazz Grant, Taya Francis, Israel Kujore, Rahana Dariah.

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