The Baltic Guide ENG September 2016

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA LOCAL TRADITIONS –

Where to try Estonian Food OLD TOWN SHOPPING –

Souvenirs That Don’t Suck NEW EXHIBIT –

Vikings: Life Beyond the Legend ESTONIAN JEWELLERY SPOTLIGHT:

An interview with Tanel Veenre and Kriss Eglite

Tallinn

Design Festival Nightlife: A good, old-fashioned night on the town

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S E P T E M B E R 2 0 16 6

Your free guide to Estonia

ENGLISH EDITION

Five floors of delicious food, fashion, cosmetics, electronics and home goods.

STOCKMANN DEPARTMENT STORE – BEST PLACE FOR SHOPPING IN TALLINN. Ask for your tourist discount.

Welcome to Stockmann!

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet!

LIIVALAIA LLI LIIV IIIV VA ALL A AIIA 53 553, 3, TA TTALLINN ALL LLIN NN • WWW W WW WWW.STOCKMANN.EE WW. W.ST STOC TOC OCKM KMAN ANN. N.EE EE

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

A Harvest of Events

A

utumn is a fun time in Tallinn.

The city, and even the country is bustling with different events and fairs offering something for every visitor.

In September (12-18 September) we look forward to the annual Tallinn Design Festival, now in its eleventh year. This renowned festival turns the city into a designlover’s paradise with creative events taking place throughout the city. The entire city comes together to present Estonian design in showrooms, galleries, and exhibits.

Be sure to visit the Estonian Open Air Museum for a look at traditional rural life in Estonia. Learn about

customs and traditions throughout the autumn with various fairs and events.

This time of year is great for visiting markets and attending food festivals in some of Estonia’s smaller cities and towns, especially is you’re a food lover like me.

No matter what your interests, you are sure to find something in these pages. Read about new restaurants in Tallinn, where to eat the best Estonian food in town, and where to buy the most unique souvenirs.

Contents

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

3 editorial

September Highlights

restaurants 4-5 Estonian restaurants and local flavours restaurant news 8 oro resto,, satay

01 TEN YEARS OF FASHION Estonia’s biggest fashion event, Tallinn Fashion Week will celebrate its tenth anniversary. From 19-22 October see the best of Estonian fashion on the catwalk and see who will win this year’s Golden Needle award. The event takes place in the rooms of the Kultuurikatel at Põhja pst 27a, Tallinn.

02 A BUSY AUTUMN AT THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM September is a busy month at the Estonian Open Air Museum, with many different fairs and theme days.

On 18 September, take part in the Fall Fair and Estonian bread day. St. Michael’s Day will be celebrated on 29 September, marking the beginning of the winter period at the museum and including a church service at Sutlepa Chapel. Learn about the culture of the Peipsi Old Believers and Setos at the Piiriveere onion and fish day on 2 October.

03 IDA-VIRUMAA LAMPREY FESTIVAL The annual Lamprey Festival will take place in Narva Jõesuu on 24 September. Enjoy lampreys and other fish dishes.

04 NATURE FILMS AND A STORK PARTY Enjoy about 100 nature films at the Matsalu Nature Film Festival from 21-25 September. In addition to the fabulous films, see photo exhibits and workshops. Take the time to visit Matsalu National Park where thousands of storks and geese meet. The festival is organised in Lihula, Haapsalu, and Tallinn.

this month 6 beauty 10 nightlife 12 shopping 14-15 events 16-17 sightseeing 18 museum 19-22 visitor information and maps 23 day trip: naorootsi

05 WORLD CUP QUALIFIERS BEGIN

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Accessories: New Vintage by Kriss Photo: Riina Varol

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SEPTEMBER 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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The Estonian football team will start in the qualification rounds for the World Cup on 7 October when Estonian plays Gibraltar. The second qualification match will be against Greece on 10 October. The games will take place in A. Le Coq stadium in Tallinn.

Tickets available from Piletilevi.

restau

4

Photo: Mikko Savikko

Fresh Estonian flavours at Leib.

Lo

Juha Väänänen, master distiller.

RESTAURANT NEWS Algoth Distillery and Bar has just

opened in the D-Terminal area of the port. The name refers to the prohibition era’s most notorious bootlegger, Algoth Niska.

Juha Väänänen is the distillery’s master distiller, who is well-known in Finland. With modern machinery from central Europe, he prepares grainbased mash from which he distills vodka.

“We’re producing vodka, with this we have a clear product selection and cater to local tastes. We’re going to start producing other products too, like gin”, explained Väänänen. The production is growing, though much of it is done by hand.

Algoth officially opened on 2 September and so Tallinn got its first small craft distillery where you can buy products directly.

You can sample them at the bar, where you can also enjoy other drinks and a bootlegger’s favourite food, sandwiches.

The rock and sports bar Shamrock reopened in a new location under Musumäe, oposite McDonalds. Enjoy karaoke and a fun atmosphere.

Just a short walk from the Old Town towards Stockmann, you will find the minimalistic, yet fantastic Björn Espresso Bar. A new Thai restaurant, appropriately named New Thai opened near the central market.

Best of all, there are Thai cooks in the kitchen. ■

Location Algoth Distillery and Bar, Lootsi 8, Tallinn a3 Shamrock, Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town h3 Björn Espresso Bar, Maakri 28, Tallinn b2 New Thai, Lastekodu 9, Tallinn b3

Modern Estonian creations at MEKK.

Whe TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The capital city is filled with all

kinds of restaurants, offering many different kinds of food.

Sometimes, however, you want to get a taste of local cuisine. We’ve complied a list of some of our places to taste some Estonian-style fare, both modern and traditional.

Farm Müürivahe 27B, Tallinn Old Town h3 Farm brings modern Estonian cuisine to Tallinn. The restaurant’s interior is rustically elegant and the glass-enclosed open kitchen is the centre of attention in the middle of the room. It’s seen great success since its opening, with its head chef competing for Estonia in this year’s Bocuse d’Or cooking competition.

A great place to try some traditional Estonian flavours reinvented.

Leib Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3 Leib Resto ja Aed is the dream of sommelier Kristjan Peäske and chef Janno Lepik, two friends-turnedrestaurateurs. Their love for good food and good wine can be seen in the restaurant’s seasonal menus, and the ever-changing wine list.

All of Leib’s raw ingredients come from local farms and producers, the majority of which are organic too.

Mekk Shamrock's new location under Musumäe.

Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town i2 MEKK stands for Moodne Eesti Köögi Kunst, or modern Estonian

urants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Generous portions of Estonian comfort food at Vanaema Juures.

Farm offers a new twist on modern Estonian cuisine.

ocal Traditions re to taste Estonian cuisine in Tallinn. cuisine in English, and this is an apt description of MEKK's food. The flavours of traditional Estonian food is combined with modern cooking techniques to produce wonderfully flavourful and colourful dishes.

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town h1 On a cool autumn night, step into this cosy little inn, in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, be sure to try the sausage feast. And what a feast it is! The platter includes different kinds of sausages with sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and mustard. Be careful,

With the cooler nights ahead, Kuldse Notsu Kõrts is the perfect place to tuck in for a cosy evening.

Estonians may not for the most part enjoy spicy foods, but they do like their mustard hot! The homemade cheese also comes very highly recommended, however the sausage feast shared between two people is plenty. To drink, try a pint of the house ale.

Liisu Juures Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town h1 It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu Juures in the Town Hall Square. Located in a warm and inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old Town, this is the place to come for good food, and good Estonian

hospitality. Here you’ll get a good taste of traditional dishes, like pork roast and herring. Liisu Juures also has a good selection of Estonian beers.

Vanaema Juures Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town h1 Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, this restaurant lives up to its name: At grandmother’s. Vanaema Juures offers traditional Estonian fare, incorporating local ingredients.

Dishes are served up just like granny used to plate them –generously portioned. Vegetarians will find plenty to choose from as well. ■

Liisu Juures offers good food and hospitality.

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beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Relax and unwind during the treatment.

Application of the mask.

New Technique in Facial Care The Belgian brand NANNIC NBE is a radio frequency treatment that shows remarkable results, even after just one procedure.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV AND NANNIC COSMETIC

The Baltic Guide’s secretary Janika

went to try this new procedure and these were her thoughts: “First, my face and neck were washed and exfoliated with an enzyme exfoliator, which works without the granular particles of a typical exfoliator. You can use this exfoliator at home too, leaving it on for about 15 minutes.

A lamellar serum was applied and the procedure began from the left hand side of the face for lymphatic circulation. The round end made the skin warm and a little red. The procedure lasted on each side of the face for 15 minutes. Afterwards, her skin was firmer and smoother.

Afterwards, an Alginate mask was applied for 10-15 minutes. It

can also be applied to the eyelids and lips, if needed. The mask was removed like peeling back a rubber mask. The treatment finished with a cream.

The result: skin was noticeably sof-

ter and firmer. You shouldn't wash your face or apply any creams until the following morning.

Even with the first treatment, you can definitely see results, though for the best results, 5-10 visits are recommended.

The regular price of the treatment is 80. You can try it at a special introductory rate at Kochi Iluait for 50.

■

Location Kochi Iluait, Lootsi 10, 2nd floor, SuperAlko door, Tallinn a3.

What are the benefits of the treatment?

NANNIC NBE radio frequency treatment ■ The energy from this treatment transports active agents deep into the skin, improving skin’s circulation.

NANNIC NBE’s Physiological Effects: ■ A pain-free and relaxing treatment.

■ Repairs microcirculation. Activates cell function.

■ Improves skin’s metabolism. Reduces inflammation.

■ Activates collagen and elastin production, tightening the skin.

■ The treatment can also be done to other parts of the body.

Source: NANNIC COSMETICS

Before and After

Don't worry, it doesn't hurt.

Skin is noticeably firmer.

New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel.

best collection of designer eyewear in Tallinn

Eyewear boutique

Be creative and make your ideas come to life!

Entrance through the underpass!

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

Telliskivi 60, Tallinn Telliskivi Creative City

NEW - The Home of Estonian Handicrafts

Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies.

Pearls, semi-precious stones, beads, jewellery accessories, gift boxes, yarns, knitting supplies, embroidery supplies, embroidery floss, art supplies, oil and acrylic paints, children’s crafts, soap-making supplies, candle-making supplies, school supplies, school bags, office supplies, clay, and much more.

+372 631 1871 viuu.ee

Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia.

An exhibition of artisan.

Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn www.folkart.ee

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia.

Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia.

Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

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restaurants

Simple Elegance

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Enjoy French-style seasonal Estonian food at Oro Resto.

Oro Resto offers French classics with local flavours.

french TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tucked away on Toompea in Tal-

linn’s Old Town is one city’s best kept culinary secrets. Oro Resto has only been open a few months, but is already receiving muchdeserved praise. Owned by a chef and sommelier duo, Anton Rostovtsev and Boris Vakarjuk are creating wonderful things.

Anton Rostovtsev has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in both France and Norway, leaving him with a true passion for French cuisine, but also an appreciation for locally-sourced ingredients. He takes “local” so seriously that some of the vegetables on the plate come from his own garden. Anton prides himself on his “French-style Estonian seasonal menu”, which will change again in September.

We started our meal off with a green salad with smoked cheese.

Owners Anton Rostovtsev and Boris Vakarjuk.

The seasonal veggies were brightly coloured, crisp, and complemented with crunchy toasted hazelnuts and shaving of soft smoked cheese. The main course, the seared duck was served with house-made gnocchi and jerusalem artichoke puree. The duck was beautifully cooked and the gnocchi was a delicious surprise.

While there wasn’t much room for dessert, Anton’s own chocolate terrine was a wonderful end-

ing to a wonderful meal. Served with creme anglaise and housemade ice cream.

Oro Resto also serves a filling breakfast (eggs and bacon, omeelettes, and more) from 9.00-11.00, 0, which we will certainly have to go o and try. ■

Location Oro Resto, Kiriku põik 4a, Tallinn a1

--------------------Appetisers: €5 –€9 Mains: €11–€19 Dessert: €5–€10 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

For the Love of Thai Satay restaurant’s menu is inspired by Thai and Tibetan cuisine.

thai TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

International cuisine has made its

The modern and cosy interior at Satay.

way to Tallinn, with everything from Japanese to Vietnamese restaurants opening up almost weekly. Satay has been open for a while now and its popularity among locals continues to grow.

At lunch, the restaurant is bustling with business clientele on their lunch break. In the evening, Satay is an ideal destination for a quiet night with friends or a romantic evening.

Satay’s menu is inspired by many cuisines, in particular Thai and Tibetan food, with some indian dishes as well. Chef Parsuram Bhandari is Nepalese-born and certainly knows his stuff. At first glance, there are just so many different dishes to try that it’s hard to choose. We started with the pork ribs with honey and caramel. The

Chef Parsuram Bhandari's menu is inspired by many cuisines.

pad thai. Delicately cooked pieces of chicken tossed with rice noodles and peanuts, with a splash of lime juice was exactly what we were looking for. Finish it off with a dish of crispy banana for dessert.

The sleek decor is both modern and cosy. Service is fast and friendly, but best of all, knowledgeable. Our server was able to talk about the dishes on the menu and make some good suggestions.

A good choice for both vegetarians and carnivores. ■

Location sticky ribs fell off the bones. For a vegetarian option, the crispy aubergine was unlike anything we’d tried before, crispy pieces off aubergine in a sesame sauce. You can’t wrong with the satay either.

Portions are large, so we were quite full already. Satay has many wonderful curries to choose from as well as some inventive salads.

But the true taste test was in the

Satay Narva mnt 7,, Tallinn a2 --------------------Appetisers: €5.70–€10 Mains: €6–€21 Dessert: €3–€5.80 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Salt is a traditional located in Kadriorg,

bistro

where you can enjoy good food and wine.

7BTF 5BMMJOO t JOGP!TBMUSFTUPSBO FF t XXX TBMUSFTUPSBO FF

www.facebook.com/Saltrestoran

Best flavours from around the world!

e Vas

t a mn Narv a Rau

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

Gons

iori

Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

Open: Tu–Fr 12.00–14.00 lunch, 17.00–22.30 dinner/kitchen open until 22:00. Sa 17:00–22:30 dinner

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s September Offer Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

Welcome!

Read articles online:

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10

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Wabadus has two floors and an outdoor terrace.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar

F

or a lot of tourists, it's important to get an idea of what it was like in Estonia in times past. There are lots of great museums that we recommend elsewhere in the Baltic Guide, but you can also get a sense of history from going to some of Tallinn's older bars, some of which are, happily, unspoilt by progress.

There's none of your hipster-chic here – just good, honest, old-style drinking and fun.

A great place to start your evening of discovery is DM

Wabadus (Vabaduse Väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town j1) still has old photos from those times on its walls, and it's instructive to look at how some things have changed, and some things, particularly the buildings around Freedom

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sigari Maja Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Estonian Karja Kelder

Photo: DM Baar

Depeche Mode-themed bars in Tallinn's Old Town and now stands proudly alone as your own personal watering-hole.

Depeche Mode has a standing that's right up there with Elvis and The Beatles here in Estonia, and the electronic trailblazers' four-decade career is crowned by this black celebration, a dark, moody bar where you can listen to your favourite band while taking in the unique atmosphere of this bar, which is supported by the group's fan club. This is a place where people are people, so if you're sick of bars where fancy people hang out with cocktails and everything counts in large amounts, this will be a place you just can't get enough of.

After you've quenched your thirst for electronica, head on to a similarly tranquil bar with a contrasting decor and atmosphere, which also has a history that is

Yes, that's right, a Depeche Mode-themed bar!

Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Karaoke

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Baar (Voorimehe 4, Tallinn Old Town h1) – this used to be one of two

X-baar

Põrgu

The Oak Lounge

Square, have remained almost the same. The excellent waiters and waitresses will serve most of the cocktails you can think of, alongside an impressive selection of wines and food that always hits the spot.

There are two floors to Wabadus, and if you go up, there is often a live DJ set and a party taking place, with groups such as Tallinn's Internations, for foreigners living in or visiting Estonia, regularly using the cafe as a base. On a warm day, it's nice to sit outside and enjoy

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

tangled in the story of Estonia.

Back in the Soviet 1980s, Cafe Moscow was one of the places to see and be seen in Tallinn, sitting on what was then known as Victory Square, and which since the restoration of independence in 1991 has been known as Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square).

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Cubanita Live Cafe

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

NOT HERE!

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Enjoy the Silence?

Tapper

Kochi Ait Tavern

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Club Baila Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Club Studio

Kolmas Draakon

Loung Club Violet

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Live Music Café Amigo

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Late Night Dining

Chicago 1933

Istanbul Kebab

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Clazz

Loca

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Rock Café

Taco

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

a cold beer while watching the tourists stroll past your seat, and the occasional skateboarder performing daring tricks on the rails and steps of Freedom Square.

For a dose of the past, which young people still enjoy in everincreasing numbers, you need to go to Kultuuriklubi Kelm (Vene 33, Tallinn Old Town g3). It's a bar attached to a dark, mysterious room where DJs play the best, most thundering and dense club music you will find in Tallinn Old Town. You won't hear cheesy pop anthems here, but if you really love immersing yourself in the club atmosphere, and don't care what you're wearing or how much you're sweating, you'll have a terrific time in Kelm, which is a real club for real people.

The bar has the ambiance of a traditional drinker's pub, with worn-out sofas and comfy chairs offering plenty of places to slump

at the end of an evening, but equally presenting a great place to chat to friends, in a non-threatening environment. Most of Kelm's crowd are Estonian, but if you're a tourist you'll enjoy yourself just as much. The stereo in the bar pumps out reliably adrenaline-inducing rock music, and if you want to play a game with your buddies, there's an eclectic selection, featuring everything from Uno to one of the few remaining copies of Trump: The Board Game. Yes, really. For so many reasons, you should take a step back in time. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn.

Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

from

69€

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shop

Top 5 Estonian Food Souvenirs

■ Department

Stores 1. LOCALLY-MADE

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Free bus from the port.

This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America.

It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

CHOCOLATE: You’re probably familiar with Kalev chocolates from Estonia, but did you know that there are quite a few smaller producers crafting artisan chocolates too. Visit MeGusto (Telliskivi 60, Tallinn) in-store or online where you can create your own chocolate bar.

2. CRAFT BEER: Did you know

unique - they take global trends lobal tr tren ends and reinterpret them m in a Nordic/ Baltic/Estonian style.. Brewers that stand out - Põhjala jala are the e biggest and best commercially mmerciallllyy - they already exportt 50-70% % of what they produce ce so they’re taking Estonian ian beers to the world.

Apart from that Pühaste aste e do great hoppy beers (Mosaiik Mosai aiik ik is my favourite), and Tanker Tankker

that there are over 40 craft breweries in Estonia? Claire Millard ard (estoniancraftbeers.com) says: ays: “What’s great about Estonian an beer - the Brewers here have ve a wealth of influence from round ound the world to draw on. Being g late to the party actually helps elps in that respect as so many styles have popped up elseewhere and the Brewers have ve done really well at watching g trends and interpreting them em in an Estonian way. So you see local ingredients like rye, ye, juniper and spruce coming up a lot - most of the guys take e their inspiration from nature re and cuisine and it shows.

That’s what makes them

have moments of brilliance when they do something new. I don’t like all their stuff but when they get it right they nail it (Sauna session is a good case in Estonianness)

3. BLACK BREAD: If you’ve been out to eat in Estonia, chance are you’ve already sampled some of this dark rye bread. With many restaurants and bakeries offering freshly made bread, it will be hard not to taste some.

No

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2.

This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.

This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Free bus from the port.

A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8.

Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

Local skin problems can TEXT MARJU SEPP, KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS PILLERKAAR

Here in Estonia, common skin con-

cerns include redness, dryness, and couperose, among others.

The northern climate is harsh, and as a result we need to take special care. Typical northern skin is fair, sensitive to sun, prone to redness, and the exposure to cold winters and hot saunas can cause damage. Heating in winter dries the skin and the hair, as well as our hands.

Face: Our face is our most sensitive area, but at the same time receives the most exposure to sun and cold. The climate and our sauna tradition is conducive to couperose. You can’t fix it, but it can be prevented, and prevented from becoming worse, using the right creams. Creams meant for couperose skin contain anti-redness and soothing components and

help protect the skin from further damage. Unfortunately couperose skin is genetic and if your mum or grandmother had it, then you should take preventative measures early.

Nurme Chamomile e Face Water - suitable e for sensitive skin.

Can also be used forr makeup removal and nd toning. €6.45

We e recommend:

Skin ca care after a summer or long su prolonged prolong g sun exposure: ex xposu ure:

Lumiderm miderm Skin n Structure ucture Restorative storative and d Deep Moisturising isturising Face e Cream – suitable uitable for dry and skin n prone to redness, edness, couperose, uperose, and d rosacea. €24.99 .99 (10ml €6.55) 55) Cheaper eaper option: ion: Inglili Pai Couperose uperose Skin n Series Cream am €9.15, Face Oil €8.65

We rec W recomcommend: m mend d: Joiik Reju Joik Rejuvenating uvenating series ser ries – Anti-ageing A dayy crea cream da m €23.50, Anti-ageing An nti-age eing eye cream €15.90 cre eam €1 15.90 – This series Th is serie es reduces look to the lo ook of pigmentation me entatio on and balances skin an ces sk kin tone. It contains co ntainss vitamin B3 and hyaluronic an d hyal luronic acid, which helps wh hich he elps moisturise tur rise and an nd improves skin’s elasticity. ski in’s ela asticity.

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

13

Top 5 Estonian Souvenirs 1. KNITWEAR: Although mildly itchy, the iconic Estonian wool sweater will keep you warm on those long, cold Estonian winter nights, as will the colourful mittens and socks.

2. READ ABOUT ESTONIA: My Estonia – Justin Petrone; Purge – Sofi Oksanen; Carrying Linda’s Stones – Suzanne Stiver Lie, Lynda Malik, Ilvi Jõe-Cannon, Rutt Hinrikus; War in the Woods – Mart Laar; Sentence Siberia – Ann Lehtmets, Douglas Hoile; The Singing Revolution – DVD

4. SPRATS (KILU): TTake 4 k a piece i of that black bread, smear it with butter, put a couple of slices of hard-boiled egg on it and then a sprat or two and you’re in for a real treat. These tiny fish come preserved in tins, so you don’t have to worry about them breaking apart in your suitcase.

3. ESTONIAN MUSIC: Check out some great Estonian bands like Curly Strings, TradAttack, Ewert and the Two Dragons, Kerli, Iiris, and Juri Pootsman, , as well as the famous composer Arvo Pärt.

Where to buy handicrafts, souvenirs, and other unique gifts: Hää Eesti Asi, Aia 1 / Viru 23. Tallinn Old Town h3 Estonian Handicraft House, Pikk 22, Tallinn Old Town g2 A-Galerii, Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town g2 Nu Nordik, Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town j1 Tali, Kotzebue 33, Tallinn a1 Estonian Design House, Kalasadama 8, Tallinn a2

4. JUNIPER: You’ll ou’ll know this wood by its very fragrant odour. Look ook for butter knives, tiny jewellery boxes, key chains, and trivets. ts.

5. ESTONIAN DESIGN: The There ere are some fantasticc craftsmen an and nd women out theree creating beau beautiutiful clothes, jewelry, homeware, and more. ■

5. CRAFT SPIRITS: If you can have craft beer, then you can also have craft spirits. Estonians are making wonderful small-batch vodkas and gin, and more! Check the shelves of some of the smaller bottle shops and high end grocers. ■

orthern Worries bee easily solved w with locally produced beauty products.

We recommend:

Hair and Scalp: H T There are many reasons for a dry scalp, like washing your hair too sc often, dryness from heating, or o shampoo that contain certain sh drying ingredients. We recomd mend washing your hair less frem quently and using only natural q products. After only a short perip od of time you will notice your o hair is remarkably less dry and h stronger t and healthier looking.

Aesti Peat Shampoo – contains natural Estonian peat to help scalp dryness. It does not irritate the scalp, washes without drying and nourishes hair from root to tip, leaving hair soft and stimulating follicle growth. €15.99 GN Cranberry Oil Shampoo - suitable for all hair types, including children. €9.99 Nurme Shampoo with Hemp Oil - Hemp oil soothes the scalp. €5.99

Nurme Rosemary Conditioner moisturises and smoothes hair without leaving it heavy. Helps prevent static in hair. €9.90

Hands: Your hands need special attention as they are the ones that are exposed to all kinds of things, like cleaning chemicals, weather and frequent washing. Hands can be dry and crack, especially in winter. You want to choose a moisturiser that is strong, but won’t leave your hands feeling greasy.

A good hand cream only needs to applied once, daily.

We recommend: Joik Exfoliating Mask for Hands and Feet – a two-in-one product that exfoliates and nourishes the skin. €7.30 Joik Deep Moisturising Salve for Hand and Feet – suitable for both dry and rough skin.

Contains cocoa butter, shea butter, and avocado oil to deep nourish the skin. €7.80

Sohvy Pomegranate Hand Cream - softens and nourishes the skin. €5.90 ■

Where to buy: Pillerkaar specialises in Estonianmade cosmetics. Stop in to their shop in Solaris shopping centre (Estonia pst 9, Tallinn).

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events

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■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, andTicketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn b2.

■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2.

■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn b2.

The New World Neighbourhood Festival 2016 3-4 September. Uus Maailm, Tallinn This annual event is now in its tenth year and is fun for the whole family.

The programme includes a special area for children and youngsters, a re-use market, street fair, and home cafés.

#TEW2016 Technology Party 5-9 September, Tehnopol Science Park For the second year in a row, the Tehnopol Science Park is organising a weeklong event filled with excitement and entertainment. The event concludes with the Technology Party in the yard of the science park.

SEB Tallinn Marathon 9-11 September This marathon passes through the Old Town and city centre, making for a great run filled with interesting sights. The event includes a marathon, half marathon and 10 km race. Walkers and Nordic walkers are also welcome. The opening ceremony and children’s and youth races will take place on the Saturday before the main event.

In Viking Footsteps Learn about the everyday life of Vikings at the new exhibit at the Seaplane Harbour Museum

Autumn Jazz 13-30 September, Various locations, Tallinn This year, Sügisjazz jazz festival brings many exciting performers from Estonia, Finland, Lithuania, Brazil and France to Tallinn.

Light walks in Kadriorg 15 September This annual festival celebrates the change of seasons, marking the end of summer and the beginning of autumn. Thousands of candles are lit all over the park. The programme also includes concerts by local artists and a light show to end the evening.

Day of Estonian Bread and the Autumn Fair 18 September, Estonian Open Air Museum Learn about rye bread making starting from threshing and grain grinding until tasting the finished product. Learn about other local dishes and traditional food culture as well. Estonian food and authentic handicraft can be purchased from the autumn fair.

Local Beauty TEXT AND PHOTO MIKKO SAVIKKO

‘Local Beauty. The Tarbek-

laas Glass Factory’, exhibit has brought together about 50 years worth of glass production. The factory began its operations in 1941 and was the only glass producer in Soviet Estonia.

Artificial and hand-crafted glass is on display. Part of the items on display are from priva-

te collections. This is surely and exhibit not to be missed by any glass enthusiasts and offers an interesting look nordic glass art.

The exhibit runs until 25 September. ■

Location Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti tarbekunsti- ja disainimuuseum), Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town f1.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Vikings: Life Beyond the Legend

is the new exhibit at the Seaplane Harbour Museum that breaks down the stereotypes of vikings.

Urmas Dresen, director at the Estonian Maritime Museum told us that vikings are much more than just crude conquistadors and ship builders, they were also handicraftsmen and merchants.

“You will meet strong women in the exhibition”, explained Kent Andersson from the Swedish History Museum at the press conference. He thinks that the purpose of the exhibit is to change people’s perceptions of vikings. For example, vikings have never worn helmets with horns. This imagery was born much later.

There are over 500 original viking artefacts on display in the exhibit. Beautiful gold and silver ornaments, skillfully-crafted weapons and tools that show knowledge of craftsmanship. You can see European and Asian influences in the details. Arabian coins tell stories of vibrant merchantry and long voyages.

Through these artefacts you can explore viking customs, beliefs, conquests, and trading practices. The exhibit offers a unique opportunity to delve into viking merchant life dating back 1000 years. The Viking Era dates between 750-1100 AD.

The exhibition is both informative and parts are interactive.

The exhibition is organised by the Swedish History Museum. The exhibit has travelled through Europe and America, and it now for the first time in the Baltics.

In addition, the exhibit at the Maritime Museum in the Paks Margareeta Tower in Old Town compliments the viking exhibition. It displays for the first time Viking-Era finds from Estonia.

You will also find information about viking merchant voyages.

A new and interesting find is that vikings visited the north shores of Estonia often. ■

Location

In addition to the original artefacts,

there are also copies, like the lifesized viking ship. Among the interactive aspects of the exhibit are viking dress-up and playing Hnefatafl. There is also viking food to try at MARU café.

The Viking Era dates between 750-1100 AD.

Vikings: Life Beyond the Legend is on display until 15 January 2017. Seaplane Harbour Museum, Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn.

Viking Era Treasures from Estonia, until 27 August 2017. Paks Margareeta Tower, Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

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events

15

Modern Classics Show Estonia is Better By Design TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS STINA KASE, RIINA VAROL

Tallinn Design Festival is the best

time for seeing creative talent on display across the design spectrum in Estonia. Taking place in various venues in Tallinn, if you’re looking for something original or eye-catching to buy, or you just want to be part of an emerging design scene that demands attention, you need to be involved between Monday 12th and Sunday 18th September, when the main programme takes place.

The Baltic Guide wanted to put the spotlight on two established Estonian designers who are displaying their work as part of Tallinn Design Festival, in order to demonstrate what people can look forward to when they step into the exhibitions. Jewellery designer Tanel Veenre is part of the Ministry of Fashion collective that has done so much to co-ordinate and publicise an Estonian design brand identity, while Kriss Eglite is the creative mind behind soughtafter label New Vintage by Kriss.

Veenre’s latest collection is not all

he is involved in, as he explained.

“Right now I’m preparing a bracelet to be launched during the Tallinn Design Design festival in the TALI shop, using black horn as the main material. Usually people relate my work with vivid colours, so it’s a chance to show the darker side of me. Under this darkness is a warm and organic material which feels great next to

Tanel Veenre

tender wrist skin. These bracelets will join products from the Hippo Couture and Voodoo Paradise series.”

“Besides that, I am an art jeweller, and my solo show in Tallinn Art Hall gallery is running until October 9th. This is more about mystery and meanings, deeper, unique, pieces. There’s a huge amount of handiwork there, from the brighter side of being and also darkest alleys of our hearts. One of the special pieces will be exhibited in St Nicholas’ church.” Veenre is a teacher at the Estonian Academy of Arts, where he has lectured since 2012. “My students will show their accessories designs in the Helios cinema. It’s always a pleasure to be see a creative spark in talented young people.”

Veenre, who has been a professional jewellery designer for twenty years this year, believes Design Night Festival is of critical importance to Tallinn and Estonia, and to local creative talent. “It’s really grown through the years – is started as a kind of design family event and has turned into something even my grandmother knows. I see it as a way for people to be inspired by the local scene and also as a great possibility for wider audiences to get a quick overview with minimum effort. Design has melded with society and it`s hard to avoid it – so you’d better know it well!”

New Vintage by Kriss supremo

Eglite came up with her concept after becoming fascinated

More info about Tanel Veenre’s collection can be found at: ■ www.tvj.ee ■ www.facebook.com/tvjewel-

lery ■ IG _kindom_of_dreams ■ Flagship store in Embassy

of Fashion studio (Tatari 6 second floor) is open Mon-Fri 10-18

Display of jewellery in the Embassy of Fashion (Tatari 6).

by sailing. “Our newest limited edition collection is inspired by the sea and sailing - it’s called ‘Équipe – Sail the world’.

10 of each purchase goes to an amazing women’s sailing team, Équipe du Piloilleri III, who sailed in the Muhu Väina Regatt this year. This is an all-women’s team with an average age of 24!

These girls include an anthropologist, a coach, a product designer, an environmental specialist and two restorers! They have all trained with the legendary Estonian sailing coach Rein Ottoson, who not only taught them how to sail but also transmitted to

them a love of the open water and adventure.”

As far as hints and tips for the hungry traveller once visitors have seen the new designs across the city, Eglite and Veenre are both goldmines of information, and keen foodies. “I love good food and my tastes vary,” Eglite said, “currently I am in a Japanese food phase and Tokumaru, although the location [in Solaris shopping centre] is nothing stunning, has definitely the best Japanese food in Tallinn. My favourite choice is the Chef’s Salad with Salmon.”

Veenre is happy to scour the entire city of Tallinn for the best

tastes. “During summer Telliskivi hipsterland has the best vibes for sure - F-Hoone is a great classic there. But for autumn, I would go to von Krahli Aed, a great cozy spot in the Old Town with an ethical menu. I love La Bottega for Italian, particularly the stuffed squid, and Leib Resto or Neh for contemporary Nordic cuisine.”

“If I had more money, I would eat more often at Art Priori or Noa for the Head Chef’s Menu.

They both have a great balance between simple pure tastes and creativity. And Kalambuur, a family-run place, has such a good spirit. Kohvik Klaus, next to the Estonian Design shop in Kalasadama, has lots of soul and spirit too.”

You can see Tanel Veenre’s new creations at TALI on Kotzebue 33 on Saturday 17th September, while New Vintage by Kriss hosts a satellite display in its own studio, on Pärnu Mnt 27, where Kriss and her staff will be glad to see you. ■

16

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town.

The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets.

Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders.

Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene.

Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants.

Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn).

Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

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sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s.

Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service.

The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century.

The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life.

For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park.

From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district.

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.

Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.

Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns.

Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

18

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee.

We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2.

(Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum.

1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee.

01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee.

We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee.

Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/.

1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18.

1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee.

Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17.

July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Fall into Photography

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Juhan Kuus. South Africa: Robben Island Prison. President Bill Clinton with Nelson Mandela in Mandela’s old prison cell. 27 March 1998

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee.

Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee.

We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

It is a great time for photography enthusiasts at Tallinn’s art museums this autumn.

TEXT BART C. PUSHAW, PHOTOS ADAMSON-ERIC MUSEUM, KUMU

T

he Adamson-Eric Museum offers the opportunity to become acquainted with some of the most astonishing documentary photography of the twentieth century at the exhibition “Juhan Kuus. The Measure of Humanity: 45 Years of Documentary Photography in South Africa”. Juhan Kuus, of Estonian heritage, spent almost five decades in South Africa, capturing some of the most iconic and memorable photographs of the country’s tumultuous and fascinating history throughout the twentieth century. Racial tensions during the notorious years of apartheid, Nelson Mandela’s historic meeting with Bill Clinton, and even everyday people feature prominently in Kuus’s work, which earned him the prestigious World Press Photo award twice in his life.

If you’re interested in the more absurd, experimental, and otherworldly dimensions of photography, don’t miss the exhibition “Marcel LaFrancq and Belgian Surrealist Photography” at KUMU Art Museum through 11 November. Whether capturing the mysterious glow of a city park at night, or experimenting

Öine Monsi park. 1938 Charleroi Fotograafiamuuseum © Michel Lefrancq

with light exposure to create eerily phantasmal portraits, the captivating photographs of Marcel LaFrancq exploit the perceived truthfulness of the photographic lens. LaFrancq’s photographs provide fascinating comparisons with one of Estonia’s most famous Surrealists, Eduard Wiiralt, whose iconic, hellish prints have fascinated

viewers for almost a century, and are on display in the museum’s permanent collection. ■

Location Adamson-Eric Museum Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town h1 KUMU Art Museum of Estonia Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn

getting around

TH BA EM TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™S ES PE TP ET M B EB RE R2 02 10 61 6

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

From the driver

4 5

J. Poska

KADRIORG

Mere pst

Ädala

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

Balti jaam Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Linnahall Port

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

ÜLEMISTE

Pae Bus Station

VäikePaala

Majaka põik

2 4 Ülemiste

E-tickets

Vineeri

Tihase Marja

6*

Tedre

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

ÕISMÄE

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

Sääse

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Tondi

3, 4

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Airport

At the beginning of September, tram line 2 will run from Ülemiste to the train station where a new turnaround point has been made.

The line also has a new stop at Merekeskus. Bus number 52 will continue to run to Kopli until tram line 1 resumes service in autumn 2017.

■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square.

Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

20

transport

I DE E ™™ S SE EP PT TE EMMB BE ER R 2 20 01 16 6 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia.

Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372.

Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso.

A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

P

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots.

The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle.

This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

day trip

23 Nõva Nõvaand andNoarootsi Noarootsi Peraküla Beach Spithami Peraküla

Dirhami

Nõva

Rooslepa Roosta

Noarootsi Aulepa Tallinn

Saare Manor Pürksi Österby Port

Nõva parish

Sunny Beaches and Fascinating History The northwest corner of Estonia surprises with paradise beaches and the culture of Coastal Swedes. runs partly along the cobblestone path built by Russians in the First World War.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

We start driving toward Nõva from Tallinn and in an hour we’ve already arrived in northwest Estonia. In the tourist information point located in the red fire station we are told about the area’s points of interest, including the oldest Madri-Eesti wood church and the white sandy beaches.

Püha Olavi Church, built in the 17th century is small, but beautiful. It is one of three churches named after the Norwegian king in Estonia. The other two churches are located in Tallinn and Vormsi.

Meigo Voog at the Nõva Nature Centre, tells us about the natural surroundings. There is something for bird, plant, and geology enthusiasts alike. A few years ago the RMK centre was renovated and is used quite a bit in summer.

“We receive visitors from all over, like Finland, Germany, and Sweden. There are just as many cyclists as well. You probably noticed that the Eurovelo bicycle path runs beside here”, Voog says.

An 820 km long hiking trail that goes until Peraküla brings many visitors to the area. According to Voog, many come with simply a sleeping bag to enjoy the outdoor summer weather.

It’s just a short distance from Peraküla to the seaside, which

You can get to Noarootsi by car or by boat.

beaches were only “discovered” in the mid '90s.

The point of Cape Põõsaspea juts

The beach offers a view you don’t

Estonian Swedes Estonian Swedes lived on Estonia’s islands and especially in Haapsalu from the beginning of the 12th century until the Second World War, when the majority fled. The beachside villages are called Aiboland, where the places are marked by signs in both Estonian and Swedish. Those interested in learning more about Estonian Swedes and their cultural history can visit the Museum of the Coastal Swedes in Haapsalu.

see too often in Estonia. Sand dunes, a snow white sandy beach and waves, which are in a different class compared to Pärnu, for example. And the sand truly sings. It is very fine grain.

There are many RMK campfire site and around them are tents. The beach is a favourite holiday destination for young families.

The journey continues through the pine forests until Naorootsi Spithami. Places for berry picking are marked at the side of the road, Nõva is known for its berry and mushroom forests.

Spithami was an Estonian Swed-

ish village in the beginning, where most of its inhabitants spoke Swedish as a first language.

Estonian Swedes were forced to flee from the Soviet Army in 1943-44. Some have returned, if only for the summer. Beautiful red cottages are everywhere, as well as Swedish cars.

Soviet army ruins tower in the meadows. They served as a border from the seashore and it’s because of them that the beach has remained untouched by buildings. The beautiful sandy

out towards Finland and on the horizon you can see Osmussaar (Odensholm). The point is known foremost for its birds. In autumn, about two million arctic waterfowl and sandpipers come here. Põõsaspea is one of Northern Europe’s best bird migration watching areas.

Nearby, Dirham port is full of summer visitors. There are many boats docked here and in the main building you will find showers and a sauna.

Roosta beach is western Estonia’s Ibiza and on a hot day it’s filled

with people. The surf club teaches children how to ride the waves, a group of young Swedes play beach volleyball and music plays.

Noarootsi’s administrative centre is far from the sunny beaches in Pürksi (Birkas). There is only one road leading there, which runs through a former seabed. The watchtower at the side of the road was used in the Soviet period and you could only get there with a special permit.

It’s also worth a visit to Österby port, where a hundred year old breakwater stands in front of Haapsalu’s silhouette.

Other points of interest include the stunning Saare manor and Noarootsi church. ■

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