The Baltic Guide ENG March 2017 by The Baltic Guide

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA Dining at PM20 – Tallinn’s only BYOW restaurant An animated exhibition at the Estonian Natural History Museum Shopping in the Baltika Kvartal What’s new in Tartu

Daring to dream –

Kadri Voorand Nightlife: Your guide to Tallinn Music Week

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M A R C H 2 0 17

Your free guide to Estonia

ENGLISH EDITION

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

The spring spirit

ou might say spring is in the air, but not because of the weather, because of the upcoming events this month. In summer, it seems there is always some kind of festival or event going on. The upcoming month is just a sign that there are longer days and warmer months ahead. March has two big events: Tallinn Music Week and Tallinn Fashion Week. If you’re in town for Tallinn Music Week, turn to our nightlife page (16-17) for your exclusive guide to a great festival experience, starting from where to eat and ending with where to party, with a lot of great music in between. Tallinn Fashion Week takes place twice a year, once

in spring to showcase new collections and second in autumn to hand out the Golden Needle award. In addition to all that, if you’ve never visited Tartu, hop on a train or bus and get down there right now. With the opening of the new Estonian National Museum and the quickly developing Aparaaditehas quarter, there’s plenty to see and do and eat! And speaking of eating, while it may not be beach weather quite yet, that’s no excuse not to head down to Pärnu for their Restaurant Week, to taste some great food. Happy travels!

Contents 3 editorial

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

restaurants

March events

4-5 restaurant news 6 PM20 Tallinn's only BYOW bar Oliver's new location

01 SEAPLANE HARBOUR OPENS AFTER RENOVATIONS One of Tallinn’s top attractions, the Tallinn Maritime Museum, will open its doors at the beginning of March after a month-long renovation. The Seaplane Harbour Museum is located in seaplane hangars, which are almost 100 years old. In honour of this the museum is opening an exhibition about the building’s history.

02 MIREILLE MATHIEU CONCERT IN TALLINN The French singing legend Mireille Mathieu will perform at Tallinn’s Tondiraba Arena on 11 March. The singer will perform some of her top hits from her long career accompanied by a symphony orchestra. The French singer was last in Tallinn six years ago.

this month

03 PÄRNU RESTAURANTS CELEBRATE GOOD FOOD From 1-9 April, enjoy Pärnu Restaurant Week where you can dine at some of the city’s top restaurants. 23 restaurants will be taking part, offering two-course lunches for €10 and three-course dinners for €18. Be sure to book early.

04 WORLD FILMS IN TARTU The World Film Festival takes place in Tartu from 20-25 March, where film lovers can watch everything but films made in Hollywood. The programme includes films from Norway, Taiwan, Israel, Poland, and Syria.

8,14 beauty 10-11 day trip: Tartu 12-13 interview: Kadri Voorand February Events 15 shopping 16-17 nightlife 18 museum: Estonian Museum of Natural History 19-22 visitor information and maps 23 Tallink's new Megastar

Your Comments

05 CELEBRATING WOMEN

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Kadri Voorand Photo: Stina Kase

MARCH 2017

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

@ balticguide_en

On 8 March you may notice more men than normal carrying flowers, this is because in Estonia it’s International Women’s Day. The day is also celebrated with concerts throughout the country including one at the Estonia Theatre.

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

Scrumptious cakes at Green Bakery.

MARCH RESTAURANT NEWS As the weather starts warming up,

we’ll start to see more and more new places opening up. In the meantime, here are some new and old favourites to check out. The popular food truck Linnutee Puhvet opened a warmer indoor location in the Old Town (Suur-Karja 11, Tallinn Old Town i2), where they will be serving their delicious grilled burgers, among other things. Previously Uus Kuus, the new Taanilinna restaurant and wine cellar (Uus 6, Tallinn Old Town g3) is serving up classic bistro comfort food in a cosy atmosphere. Stop in and enjoy a refreshing sal-

Great burgers at Uulits Tänavagurmee.

Friendly service at Kohvik Koloniaal.

mon tartar with avocado cream or some warming pasta and risotto, all for very friendly prices. Another favourite Tallinn burger joint, Uulits Tänavagurmee has just opened a new location in Kalamaja (Soo 1B/, Tallinn a1). If you’ve never tried their burgers before, you can expect a juicy larger-than-life burger with fresh homemade toppings. While the Green Bakery (Maakri 19, Tallinn b2) has been open for a while now, we thought we’d mention it again for anyone looking for a vegan, lactose and gluten-free alternative. This cosy little café serves up

more than just baked goods. Enjoy burgers, wraps and pizza too. Designed with a 1920s feel in mind, Kohvik Koloniaal (Tööstuse 1, Tallinn a1) has become a local favourite for great coffee and some wonderful baked goods as well. A lovely cosy place to cheer up on a dreary day. And last but not least, the popular theatre bistro No99 (Sakala 3, Tallinn b2) has started serving brunch on Saturdays. Since last autumn, you have been able to enjoy a buffet brunch from 12.0015.00 every Saturday. 15, 6 for children 7-14. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

restaurants

Food prepared right before your eyes at Wok to Walk.

Taste of Asia of TOA's inviting interior.

Tallinn’s favourite Asian restaurants sine. Some of our favourites include the huge crispy spring rolls, crispy Lai-style vegetables (careful, these are hot), and the chicken curry. Prices are reasonable and you can dine in as well as take away from their central location.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

To help you on your quest to find exotic flavours, especially when you’ve had your fill of meat and potatoes, we’ve put together a list (in no particular order) of some of Tallinn’s favourite Asian restaurants, as recommended by locals.

Gotsu Dao Hua

Pärnu mnt 62a, Tallinn g1

Mardi 1, Tallinn b3

Gotsu is the best place for Korean food in Tallinn, hands down. It’s a reasonable distance out of the Old Town, but worth the walk, or short tram ride. Try some of the house made ice tea, kimchi (you can also buy some to take along), and the fried chicken with chilli, among many other great dishes.

We have been told about this restaurant for a number of years and finally went to try it for ourselves at the end of last year. A large banquet lunch was taking place in the other room, so service was a little slow, but when the food did arrive, it was worth the wait! The prices are on the steeper side, but this is the kind of place where you want to go with a few friends and share your dishes. You can even pre order crispy duck with pancakes.

the beautifully plated fried squid and the pork ribs. Portions are on the smaller side, but you can get away with sharing a few dishes.

Wok to Walk Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

The international chain Wok to Walk has over 70 restaurants worldwide. Food is prepared right before your eyes, over an open flame in a wok. Raw ingredients are always fresh and local. Food is prepared within 15 minutes and you can enjoy it in the restaurant or as takeaway. It’s great value for money, portions are big and completely customizable.

TOA - Taste of Asia Rotermanni 2, Tallinn a2

Chedi Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town f3

If you’re in the mood to splurge for something a little fancier, Chedi is the place to come. The modern interior welcomes guests into an exotic and intimate setting for a meal to remember. Try

China Inn Viru 9, Tallinn Old Town h2

TOA or Taste of Asia opened earlier this year in Tallinn’s Rotermann Quarter. This new Asian restaurant has been taking Estonian palates by storm with bold, fresh flavours. In addition to great food, they also have a fabulous cocktail list. ■

China Inn has been around for a number of years. Located in the cellar on the main street of Viru in the Old Town, it’s the place to come if you want to get your fix of lemon chicken, sweet and sour pork, and other such guilty pleasures. Prices are reasonable and portions are large.

Asian Aroma P. Süda 1, Tallinn b2

This is a favourite takeaway among locals. There is something for every taste, from Chinese to Indian to Thai cui-

Elegantly presented dishes at Chedi.

TOA's vibrant flavours can be tasted throughout their menu.

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

Grilled steak, just how you like it Restoran Oliver may have moved to a new address, but everything else is still the same. a BBQ sirloin and grilled liver, which both came served with grilled vegetables. The appetisers were tasty. The sirloin and the liver were cooked to our liking at medium and the sides had an equally pleasing smoky flavour. The wild mushroom sauce went very well with the steak and an herbed butter complemented the liver. They know their meat at Oliver. ■

grill TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Oliver was located for some time on

the bustling main street of Viru, but recently moved to a new, quieter location on Rataskaevu, just a stone’s throw from Town Hall Square. You’ll find Oliver by it’s smiling mascot, inviting you inside to try the steak. As you walk down the stairs you’ll see the bar and to your left, a 100seat restaurant. The cellar room is well lit, with a cosy atmosphere. Oliver’s menu has stood the test of time, which means that appetisers and desserts are prepared in a traditional European-Estonian style and the main courses are unique with raw ingredients that are careful-

A selection of marinated herring.

Location ly chosen. Patties are served in many different ways, with pork, beef and liver. Sides include potatoes prepared in several ways, grilled vegetables and different sauces. We decided to try the hering selection to start and pickles served with honey and sour cream. The main course was

Oliver, Rataskaevu 22, Tallinn Old Town h11 --------------------Appetisers: €4.90–11.80 Mains: €11.90–32.10 Dessert: €5.20–6.90 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

BBQ sirloin with a side of grilled veggies.

PM20 - Not your ordinary wine bar wine bar TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The mood is lively, yet calm, with

The funky decor creates a modern and inviting atmosphere.

friends and couples enjoying a relaxed evening with a great bottle of wine. PM20 offers a new kind of concept, something that hasn’t been done in Tallinn before - BYOW. It’s not your traditional bring-yourown either, with the purchase of two main courses, PM20 will open one bottle of wine you’ve brought along with no corkage fee. The second and third bottle you’ll have to choose from their extensive wine list. The notion of bringing your own bottle is foreign in Estonia, so of course we’ve come unprepared, but that’s not a problem, PM20 has lots of wine to choose from and the friendly staff can

PM20 is not your traditional BYO.

help you select something to your taste. PM20’s menu is just as extensive, with a selection of appetisers and mains inspired by international cuisine, with everything from ribs to pasta to curry. What intrigues us are the platters, especially the ‘Palju Maitsed’ or Many Flavours platter, which offers a little bit of everything - meat, cheese and veg. When the platter arrives,

there is a lot more than we were expecting, almost so much that you don’t need a main. The platter was followed by the goat’s cheese salad, which was just enough. The mains that pass by the table look tempting as well, though they will have to be tried next time. Just like the menu, PM20 offers a little bit of everything with the feel of a wine bar, but the menu of a restaurant. Best of all, they stay open late at weekends. ■

Location PM20 Pärnu mnt 20, Tallinn b2 --------------------Appetisers: €3.90–6.90 Mains: €9–13 Dessert: €4 .90 ---------------------

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KOFF IV SALMAR

€5

Satumaa offers Tallinn’s best

Open Sunday - Tuesday 18.00-02.00 Wednesday to Friday 18.00-04.00 and Saturday 15.00-04.00

Kim +372 54 569 193 Bookings for private events available

www.pizzabuffet.ee

Gonsio

Open daily 11-21, Gonsiori 10, about 150 m from Viru Keskus Shopping Centre.

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s March Offer Order two main courses and receive two free Irish coffees! Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

Welcome!

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet!

www.balticguide.ee

silla

We are located in the heart of the Old Town on the main street Viru 4 (courtyard)

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Viru keskus

A. Laikmaa

We have about 36 000 songs in Finnish and English

€ 2.90 price reg.

A. Laikmaa

KARAOKE.

Kaubamaja

salmar, apple belt, granny’s slipper, ässämix, blueberry shot, strawberry belt, fish

The Buffet price includes: juicy pizzas, a rich salad bar, Asian dishes, chicken wings, French fries, sausages and meatballs. And, of course, an unlimited amount of soft drinks. Dessert buffet now included in the price.

Shots:

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Finnish and International Karaoke Bar, located at Viru 4 (Old Town) in the heart of Tallinn. Originally founded in Helsinki in 1999

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All you can eat and drink! Buffet €9.90.

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THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

The first round of Affinity targets specific areas line by line.

Affinity Anti-Ageing Therapy uses a one-time applicator to send a low level of acid solution through the skin to stimulate regeneration.

Fountain of Youth Modern anti-ageing treatments work both preventatively and repairitavely. vipMedicum will help you find what’s right for you. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Everyone wants to look and feel

younger. Anti-ageing treatments are just as popular among men as they are with women. Ilkka, our marketing manager at The Baltic Guide met with Julia Kudrjavtseva, the managing laser and injections specialist at vipMedicum who suggested two courses of action based on Ilkka’s wishes to reduce lines, wrinkles and sagging in the cheeks. First, a full course of Affinity treatment followed by Aptos threads is what was recommended. Before and after photos were taken and the effects of the combined treatment is noticeable even after a few weeks.

Affinity Anti-Ageing Therapy Affinity Anti-Ageing Therapy uses a one-time applicator to send a low level of acid solution (30 glycolic acid, 10 lactic acid) through the skin to stimulate regeneration. A full course of treatments can be from three to five visits with about two weeks between treatments. After one month skin is noticeably firmer. The treatment works with the Affinité machine where an electrode is placed on the shoulder and then a pulse is sent through the area being treated. The entire procedure takes about an hour as the skin is treated twice. The first round targets specific areas line by line and the second round has more of a vacuum feel and

is applied more randomly. After the treatment a soothing mask is applied and by the next day redness is gone and makeup can be applied again. It’s a treatment that is not only good for reducing the signs of ageing, but can be used to treat couperose, scars left by acne, and more. It can be used on the face, neck, and chest as well. The procedure is relatively pain-free.

Aptos Threads Affinity was followed by the application of Aptos threads a few weeks later. Aptos are a minimally invasive face and body rejuvenation procedure that helps improve soft tissue contours, slows down the aging process, and is nonsurgical, meaning there will be no scars. Aptos are bioabsorbable threads that are placed under the skin to lift different parts of the face or body. A local anesthetic is applied to the area being treated, so pain is reduced, but the

Aptos Threads are a good alternative to cosmetic surgery, with recovery time being quite short.

insertion of the threads can still be felt. After the 360 days, the threads are completely excreted. They contain L-lactic acid that adds to the rejuvenating effect and prolongs the absorption period. The threads have little barbs on them that help hold them in place.

They can be used all over the body, to lift breasts for example. Some types of threads can be used to improve your complexion, or to fix a part of the face after a stroke or accident. What’s great about these threads is that they are a good alternative to cosmetic sur-

gery, with recovery time being quite short. With Aptos, you will get excellent results without surgery, which you can see as soon as after the procedure and will continue to improve over the following 2-3 weeks. The results last for varying periods of time, depending on the material and the type of thread used. The best results come when they are applied with classical aesthetic operations and almost all cosmetology and therapeutical procedures (pilings, fillers, Botox injections). You don’t have to wait to try this procedure, you can start at 30 and use it as a preventative measure against the signs of aging. Of course, as you age, it’s a great alternative to plastic surgery. Since 1996, Aptos has produced unique materials for aesthetic surgery and cosmetology. Their methods have gained world recognition and are now used by specialists in 48 countries around the world. Aptos’ patented products and methods have been awarded international awards. vipMedicum clinic offers a full range of cosmetic procedures for all types of problems. Their specialists are there to answer any questions or concerns you might have. Book a consultation to find the right course of treatment for you. ■

Location Before and After

vipMedicum Raua 36, Tallinn a3 www.vipmedicum.ee

NEW – The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia. An exhibition of artisan. Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn

www.folkart.ee

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia. Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

Read articles online:

www.balticguide.ee b lti id

New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel. STOCKMANN DEPARTMENT STORE – THE BEST PLACE FOR SHOPPING IN TALLINN! A wide and inspiring selection of international brands and goods can be found in our fashion, cosmetics, electronics, home and food department. You can also visit our liquor store and cafe&bakery. On the 5th ﬂoor you can ﬁnd restaurants, beauty salons, travelling agencies and lots of service providers. Ask for your tourist discount. Welcome to Stockmann!

Be creative and make your ideas come to life! Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies. • Pearls, semi-precious stones • Beads • Jewellery accessories • Gift boxes • Yarns • Knitting supplies • Embroidery supplies • Embroidery floss • Art supplies • Oil and acrylic paints • Children’s crafts • Soap-making supplies • Candle-making supplies • School supplies • School bags • Office supplies • Clay • and much more.

Entrance through the underpass!

LIIVALAIA 53, TALLINN • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

tartu

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

Aparaaditehas is Tartu’s own creative centre TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

When you've finished wandering through

the shops at Telliskivi in Tallinn, why not head down to Tartu's Aparaaditehas Quarter? The City of Tartu’s marketing manager Helen Kalberg told us that there are different shops, lots of restaurants, as well as a print and paper museum where you can make your own paper and try out a printer that is 150 years old. At the end of August we can look forward to the quarter’s own festival. Just like in Tallinn’s Telliskivi area, Aparaaditehas is growing and developing quickly. When you visit Tartu, Aparaaditehas is some distance from the city centre, it’s about 3.5 km from the Town Hall Square, but you can get there with public transport. For those interested in the area’s history, you can sign up for guided tours about the quarter’s history and buildings. ■

Submarine parts were made in the Soviet-era rooms of Aparaaditehas.

Location Aparaaditehas, Kastani 42, Tartu.

Choices for accommodation in Tartu grow Find a good night’s sleep for any taste or budget. The Kvartal shopping centre has brought a

long-awaited new spa and hotel to the city. Located at the top floor of the shopping centre, V Spa offers a beautiful view over the city of Tartu. There are many relaxing pools, as well as 11 different saunas to choose from. In addition to the hotel and spa, V Spa Hotel and Conference Centre also has 79 rooms and many places to hold conferences.

Lydia, opened last summer, also offers accommodation overlooking Tartu’s Toomemägi Hill. And if your budget is smaller, then why not try Hektor Design Hostel, which made headlines when the Estonian President stayed there on her tour of the county in autumn. This trendy hostel is located just little bit away from the city centre, next to Aparaaditehas Quarter. ■

V Spa offers a beautiful view over the city.

Kvartal shopping centre has everything from shops to a hotel and conference centre.

TALLINN

tartu

11 TARTU

A mix of old and new TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

As the second largest city in Estonia, Tartu

is not the capital, but a university city which holds itself as a strong centre in the country. The vibrant southern-Estonian hub attracts academics and inspiring young people. Tartu’s main attraction became the Estonian National Museum when it opened its doors in October 2016. Located a few kilometres from the city centre, the museum introduces Estonia, its culture as well as Finno-Ugric history in an interesting way. The Ahhaa science centre, located in the

city centre, is already well-known to many visitors, though the exhibitions are always changing. For those travelling with children, Ahhaa is a great place to visit for both young and old. Until the end of May 2017, a fascinating filmmaking exhibition is on display. The Estonian Museum of Agriculture is located in the neighbouring town of Ülenurme where you will some more great exhibitions. Located inside the Ülenurme Manor buildings, the museum offers a glimpse at the manor grounds in their heyday. The 15 museum buildings have different displays about agriculture and its machinery. Sports fans can visit the Estonian Sports

Museum in Tartu. Couch potatoes can admire the awards won by Estonian Olympic medalists. Shoppers can enjoy the new shopping centre Kvartal. In fact, Tartu’s largest shopping centres are all located in the same area. Lõunakeskus is currently undergoing renovations, but is still open to shoppers. The new part will be completed in spring, where there will be a cinema and hotel. ■

Top 5 Tartu

Location Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahvusmuuseum), Muueumi 2, tartu Ahhaa Science Centre (Teaduskeskus Ahhaa), Sadama 1, Tartu. Estonian Museum of Agriculture (Eesti Põllumajandusmuuseum), Pargi 4, Ülenurme, Tartu maakond. Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum), rüütli 15, Tartu. Kvartal Shopping Centre, Riia 2,Tartu

01 ESTONIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM The stunning new Estonian National Museum opened its doors in autumn 2016. The building itself is impressive, as are the great new exhibitions. This is a must during your Tartu visit.

02 TOWN HALL The heart of Tartu can be found at the Town Hall Square. The Kissing Students fountain sits in front of the Town Hall. In summer, cafés open terraces and in winter the square is filled with trees. Enjoy many events taking place here throughout the year as well.

03 MAIN BUILDING OF THE UNIVERSITY Built at the beginning of the 1800s, the Tartu University's Main Building is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Take a step inside and familiarise yourself with the museum or visit the attic where you’ll find the cell where misbehaving students were sent.

04 BOTANIC GARDENS Walking through the gates of the Botanic Gardens takes you to a whole new world. Take some sandwiches along, find a bench to sit on, and enjoy the peonies in early summer or the autumn colours. Stroll the meandering paths or enjoy the serenity while being in the centre of the city.

Distance and Travel ■ Tartu-Tallinn about 185 km Train and bus connections are available between both cities. Close to ten trains leave daily. The faster train lasts about two hours. The bus takes about 2.5 hours. There are tens of buses leaving daily.

05 GRAFFITI Tartu would not be Tartu without its street art. If graffiti is painted over in other places, then Tartu has made it its own. The small and large covered walls bring colour and art to the city.

eve

12 Events in Estonia recommended by culture.ee

Women's Day concert ”Viva Tango!” Talented young musicians

present their vision of tango. The performers include the only bandoneon player in Estonia, Kaspar Uljas of the band Abrahams Cafe; Rene Laur and Heigo Rosin, the brilliant contestants of the television show ”Klassikatähed” (Stars of Classical Music); and Mingo Rajandi, a popular name in contemporary Estonian jazz music. They will be performing the music

of famous Argentinian masters of tango, such as Astor Piazzolla, Eduardo Rovira and ”Dino” Saluzzi, as well as contemporary tango music. ■ Find out more: www.paidekultuurikeskus.ee 4 March Paide Culture Centre Pärnu tn 18, Paide, Järva Country 5 March Jõhvi Concert Hall Pargi tn 40, Jõhvi, Ida-Viru County

The 30 year-old singer has grown up with music.

Concert performance ”Once, I Will Truly Give Myself Away” The concert performance ”Once,

I Will Truly Give Myself Away” (”Kord annan end päriselt ära”) is a choral music production born out of collaboration of composer Rasmus Puur and director Priit Võigemast. It is staged in the acoustically renowned Cauldron Hall of Kultuurikatel, where a choir of 80 will perform under the direction of Hirvo Surva and Ingrid Roose. It is a musical contemplation about the young men and young women of today, as well as their thoughts and feelings. What are their genuine joys and sorrows,

desires and secrets, similarities and differences...? ”A person’s worldview and values change over time and so in a few years, I could no longer create a work entirely centered on young people. Similarly, all the singers on stage are young at precisely this moment, so this has to be done now. Because it is important to us, because this is our life at this very moment,” says composer Rasmus Puur. ■ Premiere on 1 March Performances: 2–5 March Cauldron Hall at Kultuurikatel, Tallinn

Tallinn Fashion Week At the spring Tallinn Fashion Week, Estonian fashion

Arts, Diana Arno, and more!

designers showcase their collections. This year’s programme includes: Wear-

Find out more: www.estonianfashion.eu 15-17 March

■

Festival of visual culture ”World Film” Anthropological and ethnographic documentaries are

screened in the Tartu festival of visual culture ”World film” (”Maailmafilm”). During the week the audience is taken to every continent, taking under scrutiny the so-called strangers, and becoming acquainted with these with the help of films. The festival is accompanied by relevant exhibitions, workshops and meetings with filmmakers. ■

Find out more: www.worldfilm.ee Tartu 21-25 March

Voorand joined acapella group Estonian Voices to celebrate the life of punk legend Villu Tamme at the 2017 Estonian Music Awards.

vents

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

Kadri Voorand – Daring to Dream TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kadri Voorand, it is no exaggera-

tion, has grown up with music. However the 30 year-old singer and multi-instrumentalist has never liked to rest on her laurels. It's ironic, then, that we met at the Estonian Music Awards, the annual celebration of achievement that saw Voorand later join with acapella group Estonian Voices to celebrate the life of punk legend Villu Tamme, in typically explosive fashion. Voorand was also honoured at the ceremony for her album Armupurjus, taking home Best Jazz Album and Best Female Artist. The album was released with the Kadri Voorand Quartet in 2016, breaking out of any lazy genre classification to bring jazz into a collision with rock and electronic influences. The album, which is about as far as anyone can get from trad-jazz balladeering, nonetheless got a great reception from the public inside and outside Estonia. ”I'm very happy that even though it's eclectic - I wouldn't call it a jazz album, it has ambient vibes, it has hard rock influences - some sounds have been reaching a young audience and some an older audience, and it's coming together very well. I don't want to decide any more what genre it is - I think that time is over. Critics still accuse me of trying to put myself into too many boxes at once, but I don't want to be in any box. I'm just doing what I want.”

we all started out, and we know each other's language so well sometimes we create new songs on stage, and the audience might not be aware. We just try to have fun, and it doesn't matter to us what style it is. The jazz part is the freedom to improvise with the materials we have, but we can do whatever we want, and we're really in love with it.” It's all part of an ever-shifting musical career for the restless Voorand, who has several projects and loves to experiment with her voice and a variety of instruments. ”I never do anything just to get it done. My moods change. My focus is mostly on Estonian Voices and the Quartet. But I wouldn't want to live without the classical side, for example the Avarus Ensemble, which is more towards modern classical music, so the complete opposite of some of the things I placed on my CD. So I like to travel between these different galaxies.” It all comes from childhood. Sha-

king her head when asked if her parents' record collection was a major influence, Voorand instead pointed to a more traditional way of learning music. ”Growing up, all my summers, I spent outside with my mother's folk group.

Those parties were a part of my life. Different families would come together from around Lahemaa, grannies, grandpas, mothers, fathers, to dance, sing, play different instruments. I didn't understand as a young girl that I was performing. I just thought, 'oh, great, the party's today!' This was the same whether it was family and friends, or visiting politicians, who were there. We were their representative folk group.” ”I think I started going to those performances when I was born, because my mother was not the sort to stay at home. As I grew up, I played classical piano for twelve years, then for several years I didn't play at all - I've just taken it up again. I also studied violin. I was really lucky, and this is something I've discovered, because this sort of tradition wasn't happening in every family - I thought everybody did it!” This upbringing has made the performance of music, and the creation of new songs, feel totally natural to the adult musician. ”Of course I'm always looking to learn new technical things, but for me, music is a drug, and it's therapy - I sometimes feel I'm living a parallel life in music. I like to take a trip into this world, and dream about

The title might raise some questions from non-Estonian-spea-

kers, so Voorand explained it. ”It's Drunk from Love, but in English it sounds kind of soft, the word was originally dreamt up by an Estonian poet, Andres Ehin, and it's kind of a rebellious word. It's not soft, it's kind of punk. It's also about bringing different topics to the table - for example, being 'drunk' with what's going on in the world, with finances, and markets going up and down, and maybe trying not to assume the most likely thing will happen.” ”Not only me but the band, we let our lines fly wherever we wanted to. I was a teenager when

Kadri Voorand won Best Female Artist and Best Jazz Album at the 2017 EMAs.

things I never otherwise would. You can imagine yourself in this world so clearly, and it's so comforting. When you get tired of all this crap that's going on around you, you can dive into this world, and it's real, and it's all around you.” She elaborated when asked if she is a perfectionist, explaining that the feeling of what could be possible is as important as the knowledge of what has already been done. ”I think you have to be prepared as well as you can to present emotional information - if you're trapped with technicalities, you can't get that across. I think when I started off composing, I composed things I knew how to compose, putting harmonies in that I knew, for example. That can continue for your whole life - you know how to compose for those instruments, and you just do it. So it's very necessary to know how to do it. But you know how sometimes, you can hear your own voice in your head? Well it's important to listen to what you hear in your head, and not just start writing what you're capable of making.” Tallinn Music Week is approaching

in March, and Voorand is one of the star performers in the showcase festival. ”I'm coming out with

a new duo, with the double-bass player Mihkel Mälgand - we're doing our first performance at Tallinn Music Week. It's new music, but it's closer to what I'm doing with Kadri Voorand Quartet; I think some ideas have grown out of there. I think I'd like to take a few steps back in noise level, and see how we can combine our technical capabilities in this music and see what we can bring to this music. It's piano, bass and voice - and sometimes just bass and voice.” The rest of the year is packed with concerts. ”We're touring China with Estonian voices, and there are lots and lots of other performances through the year, and then in November Taavo Remmel and I are going to do a special project with the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir, and we're going to write music especially for them. It's one of the things I'm looking forward to that's new this year.” ■ Kadri Voorand & Mihkel Mälgand will be performing for Tallinn Music Week at Vaba Lava on March 31, details and link to ticket sales from tmw.ee. Armupurjus by the Kadri Voorand Quartet is available now.

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands. Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

■ A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

A chemical peel removes all dirt from the skin.

Facial Awakening Beauty tip In this monthly series we look at common beauty problems and how to solve them. TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

After a cold and windy winter, the

skin on your face can be in a terrible state. Small wrinkles are more visible, the skin is dry, and may even be suffering from a breakout. March is the best time to start with a spring facial treatment. A chemical peel is a good start. It’s great for both young and old, and will give your tired winter skin the freshening up it needs without needles. You can have a chemical peel done in a salon. The peeling is

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

A chemical peel is suitable at any age, no matter the skin type.

not done with a machine, but by a cosmetologist. The peeling begins with a careful cleansing of the skin, which is followed by many other steps. After the peeling, you should avoid the sauna and the spa for three days. At the same time, don’t just sit at home either. A chemical peel doesn’t break the skin so you can wear makeup right away. A chemical peel is also important before an aesthetic beauty procedure. For example, for different fillers the skin must be properly cleaned beforehand. Depending on the state of your skin, the procedure lasts anywhere from 1-1.5 hours. If it’s your first time and skin is quite flawed, it’s worth doing a longer peel. Most important is the aftercare at home: facial cleansing, moisturising, and proper nourishment. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

shopping

Baltika Kvartal – A small town near the city centre TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Be sure to stop through Baltika Kvartal on your next visit to Tal-

linn. The refurbished warehouse district is a stone’s throw from the city centre and offers some of the area's best shopping. Airi Rosenberg, sales manager at Kawen real estate (the owners of the quarter) says that there are about 1000 people that work in the area. The quarter could even be deemed an IT centre, as there are many top IT firms with offices in the area, like Transferwise and Twilio.

There is more than just clothes shopping at Baltika Kvartal.

The quarter has developed into a creative centre. The core of the quarter was built in

the 1960s and after that became a stylishly restored sewing factory. There you’ll find Baltika’s major sales point ”Moetänav” (Fashionstree). Baltika has five different brands, of which Ivo Nikkolo is the best known. Baltika’s communications manager Lilian Nõlvak tells us that Moetänav is a destination shop. People come here for the brand and have been doing so for years. In addition to Ivo Nokkolo, you’ll also find the men’s brand Baltman, as well as Monton, Mosaic, and Bastion at Moetänav. You’ll also find an outlet store, where you can find items from each of the brands at a discount.

Stop in for lunch at Fork.

Baltika quarter has also developed into a creative centre. The Estonian furniture manufacturer Oot-Oot has a stylish showroom. The company, owned by Marko Ala and Joonas Tormin makes furniture inspired by the 1950s and 60s. ”While we are inspired by style, we are inspired first and foremost by durability”, they say. An armchair can last many years, explains Ala about Oot-Oot ideology. Oot-Oot

furniture is designed and made in Estonia. Once you’ve finished your shopping, you don’t have to look far for somewhere to eat. Fork is located in the inner courtyard of the quarter. ■

Location Baltika kvartal, Veerenni 24, Tallinn c2

Oot-Oot specialises in furniture inspired by the 1950s and 60s.

You will find clothing for both men and women at Baltika Kvartal.

nigh

Tallinn Mu Survive the

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

Cubanita Live Cafe Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Gay

Hell Hunt

G-punkt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Põrgu

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Patt Sadama 6, Tallinn a2

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Karaoke

The Highlander

Shamrock

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town i3

Cigar Lounges

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

The Oak Lounge

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Nightclubs

Sigari Maja

Butterfly Lounge

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Estonian

Café Amigo

Karja Kelder

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Baila

Kochi Ait Tavern

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Klubi Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Chicago 1933

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Late Night Dining Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco

Photo: Tõnu Tunnel

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

Don't forget to take your shoes off at Erinevate Tubade Klubi.

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS TALLINN MUSIC WEEK

here's a reasonable possibility that if you're in Tallinn in March, you're here for Tallinn Music Week, which is in this writer's opinion the coolest and most exciting event of the year in Estonia. It's never about partying hard - it's a marathon, not a sprint. With the festival taking place, as the name suggests, over a whole week, you've got to treat this music and culture showcase like an athlete treats the Olympics. That means knowing where to go to watch bands, where to find liquid refreshment, and where to chow down at the end of the night before loping back to your hotel. The struggle is real for the TMW rookie who doesn't plan his route and his entertainment properly before setting off. What a good thing the Baltic Guide is here to help you. We begin, perversely, not in a cavernous gig venue with a toilet bigger than your house and a bar queue longer than the Human Centipede, but in a tiny box venue, accurately known as Burger Box (Kopli 4). This little eatery is ”street,” but not in a dainty, hipsterified way. Rather it projects a ”what you see is what you get” attitude, from the wood-panelled walls to the man who serves you with a wary look in his eye that says, ”I've seen your type before.” Don't be unnerved. Go with cash, show your TMW pass, and claim 10 off the sensational food available there, which goes from the workaday cheeseburger to the fusion phenomenon that is the Chinese pulled-pork burger. Top it off with properly spicy kimchi fries and you've got yourself all the reinforcements you'll need for an evening at Telliskivi Creative Hub, perhaps taking in a major concert at Vaba Lava (Telliskivi 60a), or the banging tunes and chillout sets of Erinevate Tubade Klubi (also Telliskivi 60a), translated as The Club of Many Rooms, otherwise known to some as ”The Slipper Club” because of its unique policy of asking revellers to take their shoes off in a special changing

In addition to great burgers, Burger Box also has kimchi fries!

area, instead donning supplied soft footwear. While you're in the formerly working-class part of Tallinn surrounding Kalamaja, you should head onto the beaten track - specifically the Balti Jaam (Baltic Station) Pavilion (next to the railway station). Reliable sources say that this vast room, surrounded by glass, has been restored to its former glory. The Pavilion used to be where tired travellers would rest their feet at the beginning or the end of the 18-hour train rides to Moscow, or the somewhat shorter blasts to Tartu or Pärnu. These days, it's a party venue, and TMW has taken over it at the end of March and the beginning of April. One of the standout gigs, purely for its name, is Polish act Rhythm Baboon, and if you're not careful you might look like one if you're still awake at 3.30am when it starts. There's also plenty to enjoy if you're a TMW attendee who wants to stay in the centre of the city. You absolutely must spend some time at the truly iconic

Kuku Art Club (Vabaduse Väljak 8); its name is an abbreviation of

Kunsti-Kultuur (Art-Culture), and the men who drink coffee in the attached cafe above the club can tell stories going back decades about what went on there. Down below is your interest, though, and at the bottom of the stairs, you'll find a genuine link with Tallinn's past, a place where dissident painters once mixed with university profes-

sors, and where you'll still find film directors dancing to modern and retro classics alongside Kuku first-timers. To really understand Tallinn and its recent history, you have to pay a visit to Kuku. While you're there, you'll be able to sip a reasonably-priced beer and hear sounds from the likes of Estonia's PVC16 and Latvia's Sheep Got Waxed. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

ghtlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

u sic Week: e Marathon

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

is teaming up with bass player Mihkel Mälgand to test the outer limits of what is possible with only vocals, piano and bass. Vaba Lava on 31 March will give the audience the chance to hear the duo improvising around their own writing along with Estonian poetry. With both musicians having a long list of accomplishments, this should be unmissable. Every year since 2013, Maarja Nuut has brought her ambient violin loops and folk reels to TMW, and each year her audience has grown, attracted by the natural talent and exuberance on show. This year the acclaimed traditional musician is trying something new, teaming up with electronic musician Hendrik Kaljujarv to bring a promised extra edge to the late-night mystical tales of Nuut's two albums. They can be heard in Kultuurikätel on 30 March and Mustpeade Maja on 1 April. Trad.Attack, a global success story with a tour to China having been completed last year, makes a triumphant return to TMW, with its archive folk samples and modern dance beats, with a show at the Russian Cultural Centre on 31 March. ■

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION

The Balti jaam Pavilion has been taken over by TMW from the end of March to the beginning of April.

Photo: National Registry of Cultural Monuments

it ever has been, with the Festival comprising of more than 200 artists from all over Europe and the world, at Tallinn's top venues. That's backed up by the City Stage, taking live music to places where it usually wouldn't get, including shops, cafes and restaurants. There are so many highlights to pick from, it's hard to narrow the bill down to a reasonable size, but we've looked at the most significant or potentially interesting Estonian and international acts, to give you an idea of the people to watch out for when you are on the beat in Tallinn. NOËP, otherwise known as Andres Kõpper, is a one-man dance-music sensation in Estonia right now, with his warm, friendly sounds soundtracking all the coolest parties. Rooftops, his paean to a childhood seemingly without responsibility, is sure to be a key track in the live set that revolves around a man, a Mac, a drum pad and lots and lots of smiling faces. Find NOËP at Club Venus on 1 April. Before that, on 31 March

in Mustpeade Maja Basement Hall, electronic adventurer Argo Vals forms a very different kind of one-man band, his outwardlooking soundscapes taking you on a kind of spiritual journey. Long considered part of the upcoming wave of pop singersongwriters with an edge along with the likes of Kerli, Iiris has carved out her own niche in the music world, following up her confident debut The Magic Gift Box with two EPs that reinforced her uniqueness, Chinaberry Girl and the latest, Hope. Head to Von Krahl on 30 March to hear the magic, with hits including Weirdo, Tigerhead and the soothing Iridescent Love. Draper has carved out a productive career as a producer for artists like Ellie Goulding and Rita Ora, but while crafting the hits for others, he has also taken charge of his own solo career, with a new album released in 2016 and spawning a hit single, Break Over You, in which he collaborated with Prides. You can hear Draper, one of the biggest names at TMW, at Club Venus on 1 April. Should your tastes be mellower but more esoteric, Estonian jazz chameleon Kadri Voorand

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

Tallinn Music Week 2017: Music Highlights The musical line-up at Tallinn Music Week is just as strong as

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

An Animated History of Times Past TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

ational Registry of Cultural Monuments - an almost fossilised teacher talking about something incomprehensible from half a million years ago. The Estonian Museum of Natural History has fixed this problem. The exhibition ”The Secrets of the Ancient Sea” opened in January and takes you to the bottom of the sea. A virtual world has been has been created, where you can see the development of life over the last half million years to today at the bottom of the Baltic Sea with your own eyes. Beautiful sea creatures move, the bigger

ones attack the small ones, and colourful aquatic plants float by. The exhibition's curator Kairi Põldsaar is noticeably excited about the exhibition. ”It’s so difficult to talk about geology, especially that of the Estonian seabed and its changes. So we decided that we would make a video instead!” explains Põldsaar. The Estonian animation studio BOB Animation came to help; together with the museum’s specialists, they created an underwater world. The end result is the exhibition, which instead of making you yawn, has a 'wow' effect, so that questions start to form. Põldsaar is happy to report that

Fossils shed light on changes at the bottom of the sea.

the exhibition is engaging to children to stay staring with wonder and amazement at the sea creatures and aquatic life, wanting to know more about them. It’s not surprising either that throughout the exhibition’s short run it’s received much praise for its unique approach. In addition to the virtual ele-

ment, there are fossils found in Estonia on display around which the sea creatures have been drawn. The deep sea is but one element of the museum’s exhibitions. The three-storey museum also looks at Estonian rivers, lakes, forests, and animals.

”The Secrets of the Ancient Sea” is open until March 2018. The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday. ■

Location Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum), Lai 29, Tallinn Old Town f2.

The new animated exhibition is fun and fascinating for both young and old.

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TH BA RC TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™MM AA RC H H2 02 10 71 7

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

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1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

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Kolde puiestee

Kanuti 5

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J. Poska Mere pst

Kelmiküla

Lille

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Balti jaam Ädala

Taksopark Koskla

Linnahall Port

Hobujaama

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

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Tallinna Ülikool

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Majaka

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Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

■ 30-day: €23

Vineeri

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■ Single-ride ticket from driver: €2 ■ 24-hour: €3 ■ 72-hour: €5 ■ 5-day: €6

2 4

Marja

ÕISMÄE

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey. More information: www.visittallinn.ee/visitor/plan/getting-around/ public-transport.

JÄRVE

Airport

At the beginning of September, tram line 2 will run from Ülemiste to the train station where a new turnaround point has been made. The line also has a new stop at Merekeskus. Bus number 52 will continue to run to Kopli until tram line 1 resumes service in autumn 2017.

■ Registered residents of Tallinn ■ Tallinn Card holders ■ Unaccompanied children under 6 ■ Children under 3 with one accompanying adult

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24 and 48 hrs on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets: adults: €19/24hr, €23/48hr www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

I DE E ™™ MMA AR RC CHH 2 20 01 17 7 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.elron.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station tion to the city: tram ram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ys

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Nordica - Estonia's newest airline, replacing Estonian Air currently serves many routes in Europe and Scandinavia in cooperation with Adria Airways. +372 664 2200 info@nagroup.ee, www.nordica.ee Open 5.00-21.00, Sa 5.00-16.00

Photo: Nordic Aviation Group

Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 7

travel news

The New XPRS The Viking Line XPRS was renovated in January. TEXT AND PHOTO MIKKO SAVIKKO

There is more light on the ship

and moving around has been made easier. The shop now has a big perfume area and there is more space around the checkouts. The atrium has also seen some change, Club-X is bigger. Entry is also more comfortable. The Robert’s Coffee next to the Bistro Bufee has been made more functional. The buffet has

also been improved in terms of equipment and food. The buffet is longer and the selection of food at lunch will feed both vegetarians and meat eaters. We liked the lamb tartar and the huge selection of dessert. They also have spicy sausage and sushi. The Katajanoka terminal has also been renovated. There are now automated Viking Line check-in stations. ■

Tallink’s Megastar took to the seas TEXT AND PHOTO MIKKO SAVIKKO

The new and modern Finnish Strait

shuttle ferry is suited to all kinds of clients. The interior, designed by dSign Vertti Kivi & Co is made to offer more efficient service. There are over 300 seats in the Sitting Lounge. Each place has its own charging station. Business passengers can enjoy food and drink in the Business Lounge. The cheaper Comfort Lounge offers quieter travel with coffee and small snacks. There is a large selection of beer in the Sea Pub. The pub has an enclosed terrace that can be enjoyed in the winter too. The restaurant selection offers everything from a modern buffet to Burger King. A children’s play area can be found beside the restaurant area. There are only 47 cabins on the Megastar. You can pass the time in the two-level shop, where you can quickly get your shopping done through their self-serve Quick Shopping. There is a huge selection in the Traveller Superstore and you can bring your purchases directly to your car. The ship has 100 parking spots. Megastar can transport 2800 passengers. It is environmentally friendly and specially designed for travel between Tallinn and Helsinki. ■

The children's play area is located beside the restaurant area.

Multi-level shopping and the new self-serve checkout Quick Shopping make purchases a breeze.

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