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ENGLISH EDITION/DECEMBER 2012

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Christmas

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Restaurants /Culture / Shopping / Getting Around /History


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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

5 Contents ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

Old and new traditions

T

he holidays are truly a magical time in Estonia. This season gives you a glimpse into the old peasant traditions associated with this time of year. According to the Estonian folk calendar, the Christmas season begins on December 21, with St. Thomas Day, and ends on January 6, The Epiphany. The Christmas season was traditionally celebrated from December 25-27, and the most important celebration was Christmas Eve, December 24. This still continues today. The word Jõulud, meaning Christmas in Estonian, comes from the old Scandinavian word Jul. The association of Christmas with Jesus Christ is relatively recent. Christmas marked the Winter Solstice, the shortest day and the longest night. It reflected the customs and traditions of the peasants, where certain tasks had to be performed during this period, and other tasks were banned. For example, milling, spinning, and quilling were banned, as it was thought that they were too noisy and would disturb the “good spirits.” Pigs were slaughtered and homemade ale and mead were brewed. The pork was served as a roast with sauerkraut. Blood sausages and sült (headchee-

se) were prepared, and bread was made. These culinary traditions still continue today. Christmas straw would be brought into the house, and Christmas crowns made. The Christmas tree is also a recent tradition, introduced by the Baltic German nobility in the middle of the 19th century. The manor house lords would throw Christmas parties for the servants and their families. The tree would be decorated with toys, candies, and candles. During the Soviet Period, Christmas was banned. New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day were the only official holidays during this period. However, Christmas continued to be celebrated unofficially with family meals in the home on Christmas Eve, and the lighting of candles on the graves of family members. At the end of the Soviet period, Christmas trees began to appear in homes once again. On December 24, the President of Estonia declares peace, a 350-year-old tradition that still continues today.

5 editorial 6-7 transport 8 Christmas events 10 -11 restaurants 12-13 shopping 14 children's activities 16-17outside of Tallinn 18 beauty 19 museums 20 -21 nightlife 22 historyy g

10-11 restaurants r MEKK M Kuldse Notsu Kõrts K Liisu Juures L Eesti Söögituba E NOP N Talu T Kõrts

Happy Holidays! Kristina Lupp Editor-in chief

12-13 shopping Holiday shopping guide

01 GLAMOUR, CABARET STYLE See pop stars Gerli Padar and Tanja Mihhailovat starring in the Tartu Vanemuise Theatre’s Cabaret musical. This glamorous musical premiered at the end of October. In Tallinn you can see the Cabaret on December 15, and January 4, at the Nokia Concert Hall.

02 VIENNESE WALTZES IN TALLINN The famous Johan Strauss Orchestra from Vienna will be performing at the Russian Cultural Centre in Tallinn on December 12. Peter Guth will conduct the orchestra. The program will include classical favourites, and of course, waltzes. Monika Mosser will perform a solo.

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03 CHINESE CIRCUS PRINCESSES

beauty

The Chinese circus will visit Tallinn in December. You can see these skilled performers show off their traditions in one of their four performances: December 9 at the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn, December 10 at the Vanemuise Concert Hall in Tartu, December 11 at the Rugadiv Cultural House in Narva, and December 12 at the Pärnu Concert Hall.

Winter haircare

04 ENCHANTING BALLET

05 BYGONE CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS From December 14-16, the Tallinn Open Air Museum will have a traditional Christmas village. At the village, visitors can see traditional Estonian Christmas customs. At the Open Air Museum’s post office, taste Christmas treats, and find items to fill Santa’s bag with, at the Christmas market.

Pick up your free copy at:

DECEMBER 2012

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your C Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Tallinn Christmas Market in the Town Hall Square. Story on page 8-9

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December 25 brings the Moscow City Ballet to the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn to perform Pjotr Tšaikovski’s classic ballet, Swan Lake. Tickets to this world renowned performance are available from Piletilevi ticket kiosks.


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Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

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AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K

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This is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2â‚Ź. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

11 22 KOPLI

tram routes

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(SSKPZOLZWYLWHYLK New location: I`V\Y.LYTHUJOLM Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town

getting

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

10

PELGURANNA

PORT A, B terminals 9 8 D terminal

PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION 12

VIRU

11

OLD TOWN

7

6

11 3 3 4

5

13

Tallinn city transportation tickets can be purchased in advance from kiosks or directly from the driver. One hour, three-day and five-day tickets are available. Tickets must be validated at the beginning of the journey. Persons travelling without a ticket are subject to a 40â‚Ź fine.

3

SIKUPILLI

15

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2

STATION

2 2 44

16

ĂœLEMISTE

17 1 90K

AIRPORT

Further information on routes and timetables: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

3 4 TONDI

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMĂ„E

KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN

PORT

KADRIORG

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA

SIKUPILLI

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THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD    ‡ ZZZVWHDNHH 7DOOLQQ9LUX

KADRIORG

14

TICKETS AND ROUTES MERIMETSA

ROCCA AL MARE

airport

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13â‚Ź. www.citytour.ee

â– Transport â–  BY BUS:

Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com

â– BY TRAIN:

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee

Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Train Station (Balti jaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn

Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee

From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Town

From the bus station to the city: TO/FROM STOCKHOLM tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee

www.edel.ee

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG

www.gorail.ee

St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

â– BY AIR:

Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn

Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng

â– BY SEA: From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

TO/FROM HELSINKI EckerĂś Line - www.eckeroline.ee

â– Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia. ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare animal and plant species and also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited. Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

â– Airport and Port Transfers Getting to the port:

Free Bus from the Port

Getting to the Airport

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. The MĂľigu Bus Line also passes through the port. For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź or from R-kiosks for 1â‚Ź.

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45. The Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/ prismabuss.php?lang=fin

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź or from R-kiosks for 1â‚Ź. The no 90K bus operates between Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport and centrally located Tallinn hotels. It runs from 7:20am until 6:40pm every 20 min daily. A one-way ticket costs 2â‚Ź.


around

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

7 INDIAN RESTAURANT

Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

Irish coffee 4ûtVodka 2€

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Town Hall Square

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No international driver’s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: Q Blood alcohol level must be 0. Q Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. Q The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

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Useful Information

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Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

Münd

Pepper Steak 11ûtSouth Indian chicken curry 7€

Vo o

g kan

Grilled Salmon 9.90ûtGrilled Duck Fillet 11€

Pikk

Kinga

House Wine 2.90ûtAppetisers 2€

a Sai

Vana-Tallinn 2ûtBeer 2.50€

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www.mnt.ee.

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Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

Ven

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

Kullass epa

QHire a car

Viru

Open: Mon - Wed 12- 23, Thu - Sat 12 - 01, Sun 12 - 23

Q All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. Q In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. Q Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Rüütli 18, Tallinn Tel. 742 2828 ahadeli.tallinn@gmail.com www.tbilisi.ee

Important I I S I 1 1 0110, , P EEMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H). PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE USEFUL VOCABULARY The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

Parking in Tallinn The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. This does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour, and minute of purchase. Shopping centres are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64, with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410.

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value. Please read the signs carefully.

The first 15 minutes are free at: Q Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. Q City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. Q Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

QTallinn Taxis QDay and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo. QFor example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make note of the car registration number, date of journey, and the name of the taxi company.

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Q If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

QI t pays to be careful when choos<JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ ing a taxi, because some companies GJK% K8IKLDEK% QFrom the airport to the city cenhave much higher rates than others. C@@M8C8@8 tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10€ Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear AL?B<EK8C@ with the following taxi companies: window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The GvIELDEK% Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink minimum fee must be displayed on the price Takso. These three taxi companies have a list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxiwaiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue. meter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Restaurant/Pub Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee


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Christmas

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

in Tallinn

The holidays are a magical time in Estonia, especially in the capital city. Enjoy festive concerts, traditional Christmas markets, delicious Estonian Christmas food, and of course a glass or two of mulled wine!

Tallinn’s traditional Christmas market The Old Town’s Christmas market opened on November 24th. The square fills with little wooden houses, where you can buy anything from Estonian handicrafts to delicious hot food. Like every year, during the day Santa Claus and his reindeer will be at the market, as well as Estonia’s most beautiful tree, in the centre of it all. A tree has been placed in the middle of the square since 1441, and accor-

ding to legend, it is Europes oldest Christmas tree. You can taste traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut, or enjoy a cup of mulled wine. There is even a petting zoo for the children, and pony rides. On some of the warmer days there will dance performances, from Irish to Latin. An elf disco, for elves of any age, will take place

Saturday, December 22. Don’t forget your elf hat! The first advent candle will be lit Sunday, December 2, at 14.00. Christmas peace will be declared at 12.00 on Christmas Eve. Events at the Christmas market take place Fridays to Sundays. ■ Jõuluturg (Christmas Market) Tallinn Town Hall Square 24.11.2012- 8.1.2013, 10.00-19.00

TOP JAZZ performer in Tallinn In December, Grammy winner Kurt Elling, together with the Estonian Dream Big Band will perform in Tallinn. Kurt Elling has fascinated listeners worldwide, as one of the top male singers in jazz. It was only last year that Elling performed in Finland, for a show that sold quickly. Elling’s style is clean and unique. His trademark is his masterful use of his baritone voice over four octaves. In addition to the use of his voice, Ellington’s per-

formances are very enjoyable. He certainly knows how to hold the attention of the crowd. His 2009 album, Dedicated To You won a Grammy. In Tallinn, he will perform with the Estonian Dream Big Band, which is made up of some of Estonia’s best jazz musicians. Tickets start at 25, and are available from Ticketpro and Piletilevi. ■ Kurt Elling and the Estonian Dream Big Band, December 12 Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn B2.

Gingerbread!

Other Christmas Markets

All the best gingerbread will be on display at the Gingerbread Mania exhibit. Since 2006, the gingerbread exhibit tempts all kinds of creative minds to take part, like designers and architects. Up to now, close to 360 Estonian artists have taken part. Some international artists have also taken part. This year’s theme is the Olympics. To find out what that means,

Tallinn is famous for its Christmas market in the Town Hall Square, but did you know there is another market in town? Two different Christmas markets are open at the Lootsi Centre and at Kochi Aidad. At Kochi Aidad, the market is open until the end of December, and the Lootsi Centre market, until January 6. Browse through different kinds of handicrafts, foods, and other great

you will have to visit the show! The show is open daily 11.00-18.00. On Christmas Eve, and December 31, the exhibit is open from 11.0015.00. Christmas Day, and January 1, the exhibit is closed. ■ PiparkoogiMaania (Gingerbread Mania), 18.12.20128.1.2012. Tallinn Design and Architecture Gallery. (Tallinna Disaini- ja Arhitektuurigalerii), Pärnu mnt. 6, Tallinn B2.

presents to put under under the tree. Both Both Kochi Aidad and the Lootsi Centre are located near Tallinn’s D Terminal at the Port. ■ Kochi Aidad Christmas Market, 15.11- 31.12 Lootsi Christmas Market, 23.11- 6.1.2013


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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Enjoy old fashioned Christmas traditions in the Christmas Village at the The Estonian Open Air Museum.

A

SOLARIS Christmas Village Christmas Park

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Estonian Open Air Museum gives a good insight into rural Estonian life, no matter what the season. It is a peaceful place; the old barns and residential buildings shake off their winter sleep for a while and come alive with stories from times gone by. This year’s theme is Christmas in the tumult of history. Walk around the huge area embedded in a natural setting.

This year's theme is Christmas in the tumult of history

Make short stops in the farmhouses from various regions in Estonia. There is also a village shop, a school, and chapel. In the farmhouses, the families will tell their stories, each with some significance to Estonian history. The Köstriaseme Farm brings

you back to 1895. The owner has just paid the last taxes to the manor and is now a free man. At the Pulga Farm, the family gathers to read about relatives who moved to Russia in the 1880s, looking for a better life. Folks at the Härjapea Farm are veterans from the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s. At the Kuie School, according to tsarist regulations, Russian rep-

laces the teaching of the Estonian language, but good old Christmas songs are still sung in Estonian. No matter which farm or building you visit, you will enjoy the quiet and holy Christmas spirit, which has gathered families in troubled times. A visit to the museum can be rounded off by traditional Christmas meals at the Kolu Inn, and a visit to the village shop. ■

The Estonian Open Air Museum is open all year.

Free bus with the sign “Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum/ Open Air Museum” from Sokos Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4) at 11.00, 12:30 and 14.00. Return at 13.15, 14.45 and 16:15. Stop at Kristiine Shopping Centre on the way back.

The Christmas Village is open December 14-16, 11.00-16.00. Concerts in the Sutlepa Chapel: December 15 12.00 and 14:00 - Female Choir, National Library of Estonia 13.00 and 15.00 - Mixed Choir, Tallinn German Gymnasium December 16 12.00 and 14.00 - Chamber Choir of the Estonian Academy of Arts 13.00 - Children’s Choir of Nõmme Youth Club 15.00 - Christmas prayer

Transportation Buses 21 & 21B from the main Baltic railway station. Bus 22, or trolley bus 6 & 7. Get off at the Zoo stop, 15 minute walk along the seaside road. City Tour – blue line buses.

Tallink, The Rocca al Mare Shopping Center and the Estonian Open Air Museum have prepared a tour offer, including a variety of discounts. Estonian Open Air Museum, Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn www.evm.ee

Starting from December 2nd, a Christmas Park will open on the 5th floor of the Solaris Centre. Bring the kids to see two Christmas goats, and of course Santa Clause! Have a treat at Komeet Café’s Christmas Café. Open Monday to Friday 12.00-21.00, Saturday – Sunday 11.00 – 21.00.

Jazzy Christmas The Christmas Jazz Festival 2012 (Jõulujazz) brings top musicians from the United States, Korea, Chile, France, Germany, Sweden, and Finland to Tallinn from November 29th to December 10th. Great concerts will be held at churches, clubs, and concert halls throughout the city. Tickets and information: www.jazzkaar.ee 5 Dec 19:00 - Jacob Karlzon 3, Kumu Auditorium 6 Dec 19:00 - Anders Jormin, Karin

Nelson & Jonas Simonson, Tallinn Jaani Church 7 Dec 19:00 - Rebecca Kontus Quintet, St Mary's Cathedral (Tallinna Toomkirik) 8 Dec 20:00 - Argo Vals & band, Von Krahl Theater 9 Dec 17:00 - Tõnis Mägi, Liidia Mägi, Mirt Mägi, radio singing studio children cond. Kadri Hunt & Siim Aimla Band, Tallinn Jaani Church 9 Dec 19:00 - Tigran Hamasyan, Kumu Auditorium


10

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

ESTONIAN CULINARY CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS Where to taste holiday foods in Tallinn TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts (Golden Piglet Inn)

Tallinn is quickly becoming a food destination, with restaurants offering international cuisines. But let’s not forget about Estonian food. Traditional Estonian food is based on seasonal availability. As far as Estonian Christmas food goes, there is nothing more seasonal than blood sausage. You know the holidays are just around the corner when you start seeing blood sausage at the grocery stores. Visit one of Tallinn’s many Estonian restaurants to try some seasonal dishes.

The Estonian Christmas inspired fish appetiser at MEKK.

MEKK offers a Christmas menu inspired by ESTONIAN TRADITIONS Chef Rene Uusmees can often be seen in the MEKK dining room talking to customers. He bases his menus on seasonal ingredients and dishes inspired by Estonian culinary traditions. This holiday season you can enjoy a fourcourse Estonian Christmas menu for 30. To start, choose between a fish course or a meat course. Both dishes come with a selection of five types of fish or meat, prepared in different ways. “When Estonians sit down to eat their Christmas meal, everything is on the table. I wanted to express this in the appetiser by offering small portions and a little bit of everyt-

hing,” explains Uusmees. These dishes have a modern look, but the familiar flavours remain the same. For example, the head cheese (a jellied meat, typically found on the Christmas dinner table) is served with pickled vegetables and sauerkraut. For the main course, the chef offers a choice between baked goose fillet, smoked beef fillet, or braised wild boar. He uses modern cooking techniques to ensure that the meat is cooked tenderly, a luxury that Estonians would not have had 100 years ago. Uusmees takes advantage of the wonderful seasonal produce of Estonia, using root vegetables like parsnips, bee-

On a cold winter’s night, step into this cosy little inn in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, they offer a Christmas menu, so you can try the food without putting in all of the work that goes into its preparation. I visited the restaurant back in November, when the Christmas menu had not been quite finished, but the waitress assured me that they would offer blood sausage, and their very popular gingerbread cake. To satisfy my curiosity in the meantime, I opted for the sausage feast. And what a feast it was! There were five different kinds of sausages, including blood

Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town I2 www.mekk.ee

BEER

Taste Test:

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Producer

Saku Õlletehas

Alcohol % Points

Jõuluporter

Jõulusokk

Jõululegend

Viru Õlu

A. Le Coq

Viru Õlu

Puls

6,9

5,4

6,5

6,0

4.5

94

89

83

73

71

83 Paras virolainen

GB Wild Dark

13

13

94

Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town H1 hotelstpetersbourg.com/kuldse-notsukorts.html

Location

Beers 2012 Saku Pühadeporter

Location

troot, and Jerusalem artichokes to add colour and different textures to the plate. Finish off the meal with dessert and petit fours. For dessert, choose between the white chocolate cheesecake or a Christmas pudding with dried fruits and caramel sauce. “At Christmas, Estonians don’t generally eat cakes. After a filling meal, dried fruits, citrus fruits like mandarin oranges, and small chocolates are scattered on the table. These two desserts reflect that tradition. ■

Estonian Holiday

Name

sausages that came served with sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and mustard. The waitress warned us that the mustard was spicy, and she was not lying. The homemade cheese had also come very highly recommended, however the sausage feast shared between two people was plenty. The cheese was infused with whole cumin seeds and was served with lingonberry jam. To drink, try a pint of the house ale. ■

Every winter, beer producers in Estonia release darker, and stronger beers. At the recent Tallinn FoodFest, visitors were able to sample this year’s offerings, and GB Wild Dark was chosen as a favourite. The Baltic Guide decided to hold a tasting of their own to see how the beers stacked up.

What the experts say The Baltic Guide asked Helsinki beer expert Heikki Kähkönen Estonia’s beers. This is what he had to say:

7 Ed

1. A. Le Coq Jõuluporter - A balanced and warming beer for winter. 2. Saku Pühadeporter White Chocolate - A cocoa scented dessert beer. 3. GB Wild Dark - Delicate and fruity winter beer. 4. Puls Jõululegend - Pale and herby 5. Joulusõkk - Pairs well with sausages. CONCLUSION All five beers had a relatively modest taste. It seemed that most of the holiday beers were very similar, with only subtle nuances.


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

restaurants

11

Eesti Söögituba (Estonian Dining Room) This relatively new addition to the list of Estonian restaurants in Tallinn has all of the basic Estonian staples covered. What was truly great about the dishes at Eesti Söögituba, was that they came in manageable sized portions, meaning you will have room to try a few different dishes, or even have dessert. Try the Baltic herring and redonion tartar with crispy bread to start, or the Estonian black pud-

ding with lingonberry remoulade. As a main course, you can’t go wrong with the juniper-smoked pork with honey cabbage, potato groats porridge and mustard sauce. To drink, the naiste õlu, or ladies’ beer comes served with a bit of Vana Tallinn liqueur mixed in. ■

Location Pikk 29, Tallinn Old Town G2 www.meritonhotels.com/eesti_soogituba/

Liisu Juures It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu's in the Town Hall Square. Located in a warm and inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old Town, this is the place to come for good food, and good Estonian hospitality. To start, try the fried and marinated herring, served with rye bread and cucumber salad, or the mushroom salad, with potato and bacon. If you want to try Estonian Christmas food, look for blood sausage and roasted pork. As a main, the selection of sausages may seem daunting, but the sausages themselves are very small, allowing a proper sampling of three different kinds. Inclu-

ded on the platter were blood sausages, pork sausages, and a larger German style wiener. They are served with a generous portion of sauerkraut and roasted potatoes, as well as lingonberry sauce to go with the blood sausage. For another traditional Estonian Christmas dish, try the roasted pork and boiled potatoes. Liisu Juures has a good selection of Estonian beers. The mead, which was not too sweet, was a good accompaniment to the selection of sausages. ■

Location Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town H1 Facebook: liisujuures

TALU KÕRTS (Farm Tavern) Hearty foods, generous portions, and a free shot of vodka, what more could you ask for in a pub? The menu boasts traditional Estonian foods, as well as Estonian favourites. Try the fried cheese, or hunter’s burning sausages as a snack with beer. To start, the sauerkraut soup with smoked pork, or the pea soup are Estonian staples. Follow that with roasted pork and sauerkraut,

or the Heretic’s pork (pork chop with roasted onions). Reasonably priced food and beers, especially when you consider the pub’s location on the main street of the Old Town. You certainly won’t go home hungry, or thirsty! ■

Location Viru 18, Tallinn Old Town H3 www.talukorts.ee

NOP If you’ve headed out to Kadriorg, why not stop in at NOP for coffee and dessert, or even better, lunch. Starting in December, it’s Christmas at NOP, which means Christmas food! Enjoy a selection of Christmas inspired

favourites during the holiday season. Or take something home to enjoy. You can order everything you need for your Christmas meal from NOP. If you’re only visiting Estonia, then why not take home one of their homemade jams, or

packets of gingerbread (also available as gluten-free). ■

Location Köleri 1, Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3 www.nop.ee


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shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

The Baltic Guide’s

HOLIDAY SHOPPING GUIDE TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ Lotte, from the popupu■ The Baltic Gu Guide’s

glögg taste ttest winner Loimu Glögii 9.99€ The best mulled wine w was Hõõgvein Talvenauding Ta alvenauding 2 2.79€. Available Available at most major superm supermarkets. markets.

lar children’s film Lotte otte from Gadgetville ((2006) Lotte plush toy. 19.90€ Tallinnaa Kaubamaja Children’s Kau n’s Department. Gonsiori Dep iori 2, Ta Tallinn B2.

■ Estonian chocolate

■ At FreyWille, you can

find a great selection of traditional and high quality gifts. For men: cufflinks 455€ and tie clip 310€. For women: a beautiful bracelet 770€. FreyWille, Pärnu mnt 12, Tallinn J2.

always makes a gre great present. Kalev Kalevipoeg Kalevip p Chocolate 2.95€. Available A at most majo major or su supermarupe p kets.

■ Paper models, a great gift ft for

both girls and boys. No glue lue required for assembly. Choose hoose between ships, planes, and nd cars. 7.95€ Tallinna Kaubamaja amaja Children’s Department. Gonsiori 2, Tallinn B2.


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

shopping ■ Angora wool socks make

a wonderful erful gift for both men and d women. 24.86€. Tervisekaubad, kaubad, Lootsi 7, Norde Centrum. Tallinn A3.

■ Make gingerbread at

home with this mix. Rye flour, almond meal, and cranberry gingerbread mix. 9.90€ NOP Köleri 1, Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3

■H Hot water bottles

come in different c shapes and colours. 28.70€ Tervisekaubad, Lootsi 7, Norde Centrum. Tallinn A3.

■ With these leather

gloves, you can still use the touch screen on your phone. Women’s gloves 34.50€, Men’s gloves 50.90€. Tunor, Aia 10, Tallinn Old Town G3.

■ Homemade jam is

a delicious stocking stuffer. Beetroot and apple jam 3.50€ NOP Köleri 1, Tallinn (Kadriorg) B3

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14

children's activities

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

DISCOVER TALLINN

like a child

December is the darkest month of the year, but with snow on the ground, kids just love spending timee outdoors. Should fingers get stiff and cheeks cold, there ere is just as much to do inside!

Tobogganing and skiing

Train Station RANNAMÄE 5 6 11 TEE

 Estonia is a winter country. Kids love to rush down the slopes at the Song Festival Grounds – provided there is snow. You can use just about anything to sit on, and off you go, down the hill. On snowy winter days and evenings, the Song Festival Ground slopes are crowded.

PORT/HABOUR

PALDISKI MNT. 7 4

OLD TOWN24

PIRITA 1

1

9

VIRU AHTRI NARVA MNT. SQUARE5 2 Viru hotell

3 3 ESTONIA Stockmann GONSIORI PST.

LIIVALAIA

TARTU MNT. JUHKENTALI

PÄRNU MNT.

Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Narva mnt 95, Tallinn

AHHAA Science Centre

Like to skate?  Rent skates at the Harju Street skating rink, then join the crowds and skate to the romantic and inspiring Strauss waltzes. The rink is just next to the St. Nicholas Church on Harju Street in Tallinn’s Old Town. You are surrounded by medieval buildings and the atmosphere is magic. If you get cold, then just sit down at the rink-side café & bar and enjoy a hot chocolate.

 You don’t have to be interested in science to visit this centre. The 4D cinema carries you away into the mysteries of science fiction. Currently, at AHHAA you can see an exhibition on light, which is exposed in 20 different ways through lasers, cameras, plasma balls, and more. Most things are interactive, so don’t be shy, take part.

Open daily 10.00 – 22.00. Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town I1.

The ZOO  The Tallinn Zoo is always fascinating. In December, visitors can get to know the life of various insects, or visit the chimpanzees. They will celebrate Christmas on December 21 with gifts, i.e. food wrapped in various ways. Equal treatment is important, thus all other animals will celebrate Christmas on December 26 with extra goodies! Tallinn Zoo is located next to the largest shopping centre in Tallinn, Rocca-al-Mare and a pleasant 15-minute walk from the Estonian Open Air Museum. Paldiski mnt 145, Tallinn Transportation: Trolley bus no 6, busses. no 22 and 21 www.tallinnzoo.ee

Vabadus väljak, Tallinn, Old Town J1 www.ahhaa.ee

NUKU Estonian State Puppet & Youth Theatre  Grown ups often yawn at the thought to going to a puppet theatre and are inclined to believe that it’s only for kids. Once inside the theatre, they are carried away and fascinated. Actors at the Puppet Theatre are real professionals. You end up in a world between fantasy and reality, with many well-known fairy tale figures and childhood memories. The museum depicts the history of puppet theatre art in Estonia and elsewhere, through puppets,

words, and pictures, and with different forms of technology. It also introduces the history of the top level Estonian State Puppet Theatre. There is a picture machine with a video screen and 160 coloured buttons. Press any one of these and you will hear voices of actors who have worked in the theatre. There are excerpts from roles, songs, and thoughts. Estonian State Puppet & Youth Theatre, Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town G1 www.nukuteater.ee


WWW.TELETORN.EE WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

The TV Tower is located 10 km from the city centre and 4 km from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn HOW TO GET HERE:

You can take buses PARKING: 34A, 38, and 49 (stop The TV Tower "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises parking lot has 5 places for tourist are handicap buses and 60 accessible. places for cars.

www.troika.ee

Reservations: +372 58150020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23

ŠŽ”˜“Šȱ™•ŠœȱŗśǰȱŠ••’——ǰȱœ˜—’ŠȱȊȱŽ•ǯȱƸřŝŘȱŜŘŝȱŜŘŚśȱȊȱ›Žœ˜›Š—ȓ›˜’”ŠǯŽŽ

jjjjjjjjjjjjjj

jjjjjjjjjj

jjjjjjjjjjjjjj

Christmas Menu! www.chateau.ee

-BJ 0ME5PXO 5BMMJOOtMon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00t+372 6 650 928 restoran@chateau.ee twww.chateau.ee

Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

Bring this ad with you and enjoy a complimentary

GLASS OF LIQUEUR!

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TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

HEALTHY FRESH FAST PASTA & PIZZA from

4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!


16

outside of Tallinn

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

December News E-Activism in Estonia President Toomas Hendrik Ilves put forth a proposal for an e-solution, geared toward civic activism. Politicians, activists and commentators met to address grievances with the government. The discussion concluded with the president's proposal for an online initiative, which would allow citizens to suggest policy changes. The suggestions would be screened by the Estonian Cooperation Assembly, and presented to Parliament.

Estonia Confirmed as Member of UN Human Rights Council The United Nations General Assembly confirmed Estonia as a member of the UN Human Rights Council. 184 of 193 members of the General Assembly voted to approve Estonia for the 47-seat council. Estonia’s term will be from 20132015. The UN Human Rights Council was established in 2006, replacing the Human Rights Commission.

Tartu Observatory Re-opens The Tartu Observatory in Tõravere, outside of Tartu, was completely renovated and is now open to the public. Established in 1964, the observatory made many things for Soviet space programs, but no major renovations have been done since then. The renovations to the main building are finished, but the laboratory is waiting for new technology to arrive. The first project to be tested in the laboratory will be Estonia’s first satellite, ESTCube-1.

Tallinn University’s international appeal The University of Tartu may have the largest student body in the country, but Tallinn based universities are more popular among international students. 193 foreigners attended classes at the University of Tartu and the Estonian University of Life Sciences, both based in Tartu. The total number of international students to study at the five universities in Tallinn was 625. The Tallinn University of Technology accepted applications from 296 foreign students, while the University of Tartu accepted 164.

40 New Buses for Tallinn The capital's public transport operator, Tallinna Linnatranspordi AS, has announced that they will buy 40 new buses, to hopefully be running by December 2013. 20 regular and 20 articulated buses will replace older vehicles. Tallinn has already made many changes to the bus and traffic system in preparation for the switch to free public transport for all registered residents of the city on January 1. Bus lanes have been added, as well as a new electronic ticketing system. There will also be some route changes.

Christmas in Tartu TEXT LISA AND KRISTEN DOBBIN, PHOTOS JAAK NILSON

08.12 Alatskivi Castle Christmas Fair www.alatskiviloss.ee

Christmas is a wonderful time to visit Tartu, a city with an abundance of holiday cheer! This year, get festive at a choral concert in St. John’s Church, partake in one of the many celebrations in the Town Hall Square, or ring in the New Year at the impressive Vanemuine Concert Hall. For more details on the holiday season in Tartu, see: http://kultuuriaken. tartu.ee

8.12. 20.00 – 24.00 Lõunakeskus Shopping Centre “Imede öö” (The Night of Wonders) Deals and discounts, and the best prices of the year. Enjoy an ice show as well! www.lounakeskus.com

2.12 19:00 The Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir & Tallinn Chamber Orchestra play “Golden Classics” at the Vanemuise Concert Hall. www.concert.ee/tartu 4.12 19:00 Get into the spirit with the concert “Christmas Time,” in St. Paul's Church. www.plmf.ee 4.–19.12 Eat Estonian Christmas food & treats, see farm animals, visit with Santa Claus, and take a sleigh ride in the park at The Estonian Agricultural Museum, during their program “Waiting for Christmas.” www.epm.ee

8.12 12:00 - 17:00 The design market “Clockwork,” at the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries, is a great place to find unique gifts. www.lmk.ee/eng 2.-06.01.2013 Tartu Christmas City: a series of events for all ages, held in and around the Town Hall Square. For more information and a schedule of events: http://joululinn.tartu.ee 15.12 11.00-17.00 The Christmas Fair, located in Tartu’s Town Hall Square and along Küüni Street, is a great place to find gifts while enjoying folk dancing, games, traditional Christmas food and more. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee 15.12 13:00 4th Tartu Winter Dance Festival, held in the Town Hall Square. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee 15.12 17.00 An advent concert by the Estonian Mixed Choirs’ Association at St. John’s Church. www.segakoorideliit.ee

16.12 17:00 A free performance of Christmas carols in Finnish and English at St John's Church. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee

23.12 19:00 “Silent Night” performed by the Estonian National Male Choir at Vanemuise Concert Hall www.concert.ee/tartu

16.12 19:00 Ivo Linna, Ott Lepland, and Noorkuu perform spirited Christmas music at the Vanemuise Concert Hall. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/

23.12 19:00 St Peter’s Church hosts a performance of “Jõuluöö Tähed” (Christmas Eve’s Stars) by opera singers Maria Listra and Jassi Zahharov, accompanied by piano. www.kontsert.ee

18.12 19:00 Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir and Tallinn Chamber Orchestra perform Haydn’s “Te Deum.” www.concert.ee/tartu 19.12 19:00 “Christmas Bells” in St. John’s Church, by a vocalist from the Estonian National Opera, with oboe and percussion ensemble. " www.concert.ee/tartu 20.12 19:00 Young musicians from Tartu’s Arsise Kellade School offer a concert with Christmas flavour at St. Peter’s Church. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/

New Performing Arts Center in Tallinn A new multi-hall theatre will be built in the Kalamaja district in the north end of the city. The project is expected to take seven years. The Teatrikeskus (Theatre Centre) will be built in the Telliskivi Creative City. Nine acting troupes will take up residence. The complex will have two spaces that can be connected into one 450-seat hall. There will be another hall for dance performances, a rehearsal hall, as well as other areas.

31.12 17.00 Vanemuine Concert Hall hosts the Hennessy and Eesti Kontsert New Year’s Eve concert. www.concert.ee/tartu

22.12 18:00 The Vanemuise Symphony Orchestra advent concert at St. John’s Church. www.vanemuine.ee

The holiday season is a wonderful time to visit Tartu.

22.12 19:00 Annely Peebo, Dave Benton and the ETV children's Christmas show at the Vanemuise Concert Hall. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/

26.12 19:00 Christmas music with the Arsise Kellade Ensemble and Estonian National Opera soloists, performed in St. John’s Church http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee 27.12 19:00 “Christmas in the Heart” concert at St. John’s Church http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee 27.12 20:00 Liisi Koikson’s Christmas Concert at the Athena Centre. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/ 29.12 15:00 Hortus Musicus perform at St. John’s Church. http://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee 30.12 19.00 The Vanemuise End of Year Ball, an annual event featuring various artists and performers (tickets 26€, after 1 Dec 40€). www.vanemuine.ee


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

sports

17 TALLINN

Tartu

r e t n i W in Estonia Enjoy winter sports in Otepää

Upcoming Events:

DECEMBER: Dec 6, 19.00 - Top Estonian Rock Musicians Sibul-Vaigla-Rull, Otepää Cultural Centre

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN PHOTOS OTEPÄÄ TOURISM INFORMATION CENTRE, KRISTINA LUPP

A winter weekend away in Otepää is a great escape. The ski slopes and cross-country trails are full of people in the daytime. When darkness falls, the festivities move inside to the pubs, bars, and discos. Ski the downhill slopes at Kuutsemäe or Väike Munamägi, close to Estonia’s winter sport

Dec 8, 15 and 22, 20.00 - Lake Leigo Christmas Concerts, great music in a fabulous setting Dec 16, 16.00 - Christmas Concert, Otepää Cultural Centre Dec 21, Inauguration of Otepää as the Winter Capital. Festivities around town. Dec 22, 16.00 - Folk Jazz, Otepää Cultural Centre

No equipment, no problem: everything is available for rent.

offers winter activity fanatics ski-jumping, ice skating, snow tubing and much more! On a clear winter’s day, the silence and beauty of nature, and the snow covered trees is stunning. No equipment, no problem: everything is available for rent.

Where to stay? Where to eat?

facilities, and is popular among conference guests. www.pyhajarve.com

How to get there?

■ Villa Müllerbeck boasts luxurious

Otepää is located about 250 km southeast of Tallinn and 60 km south of Tartu.

accommodation and an excellent restaurant. The hotel is located on the shores of a small lake on the outskirts of Otepää. www.villamullerbeck.eu

■ SPA Hotel Bernhard offers a variety of rooms, an excellent restaurant and a large spa area. The hotel is located close to Lake Pühajärv and you can start your cross-country adventure just outside of the hotel. www.bernhard.ee

Otepää and its surroundings offer over 70 hotels, hostels and cottages. Rooms are found easily midweek. Advance bookings are advised for weekends.

■ GMP Club Hotel offers a stunning view of Lake Pühajärv and the rolling hills. Amenities include a great restaurant, live entertainment, and a gym. www.clubhotel.ee

■ The upscale Pühajärve Spa & Holiday Resort, located in an old manor house on the shores of romantic Lake Pühajärv (Holy Lake) is a place of natural tranquillity. This hotel offers fine dining, accommodation, spa

■ Piiri Sport and Recreation Centre is located 13 km from Otepää, and offers self-catering accommodation in huts. Simple lodging is for groups attending sporting events. www.piiri.org

Daily flights, except on Saturday, operate from Helsinki to Tartu. www.flybe.com. Taxi from Tartu will cost approx. 35 euro, 50 km. Frequent bus services to/from Tartu and Tallinn. www.tpilet.ee Otepää Tourism Information www.otepaa.ee

For more information about winter sporting events visit: www.biathlon.ee http://otepaa.biathlon.ee www.suusliit.ee www.otepaasleddograce.eu

Dec 28-29, Baltic Cup, cross-country skiing and rifle shooting biathlon Dec 31, New Years Celebration, Lipuväljak Square

Mecca, Otepää. On a day with limited visibility you won’t see that there aren’t any mountains Jan 5-6, International Biathlon around, just a few slopes, the lonUnion Jan 12-13, Ski jumping gest run being some 500 meters. Jan 26-27 International Dog-sledge The race from the top to the botcompetition tom of the hill doesn’t take very long, but it’s great fun! Estonians FEBRUARY: Feb 2-3, Cross-country and ski jump take pride in the fact that Estonia has higher hills than Latvia and competition Feb 15-24 Ice music Festival Lithuania! The highest point of elevation in Estonia is only 317 Feb 24 Independence Day celebrameters. tions, family event Downhill skiing is not the only Worldloppet Ski Federation Crossreason to visit the area. Otepää is country Ski Marathon known foremost for its excellent 10.02.2013 Open Track 31 km cross-country skiing, with some 10.02.2013 Open Track 63km 80 kilometres of tracks, many of 17.02.2013 Tartu Marathon 31 km which are illuminated at night. 17.02.2013 Tartu Marathon 63 km And don’t forget about the over 60 km of track used for the WorlThe programs include races for children and elite athletes. All events have dloppet Tartu Marathon. shorter distances for amateurs. In addition to downhill and www.tartumaraton.ee cross-country skiing, Otepää JANUARY:

The Tartu Marathon will take place February 17 in Otepää.


18

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â&#x201E;˘ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

PROBLEM í˘ą : STATIC FROM WEARING A HAT, OR LONG HAIR THAT CLINGS TO YOUR CLOTHES. S.

STATIC blues

Winter Care Anti-static Solution: Goldwell Shampoo and 60-second Mask Use this shampoo and mask regularly during the winter months to prevent static. Both the shampoo and mask have a refreshing orange scent.

How to fix static-ridden and dry winter hair.

Shampoo 250ml 9,60â&#x201A;Ź 60 Second Mask 200ml 11,50â&#x201A;Ź

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Living in a northern climate means long, chilly, snowy winters, and bundling up before going outside. You spend all morning blow-drying your hair and then covering it with spray to make sure it looks silky and smooth. You put your hat on to go outside, and as soon as you take it off, the static is back! Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry, there is a solution. Liis Sooäär, a sales consultant at Hairmail in Tallinn, has a few suggestions. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not too late! No hair is beyond repair. These products help you fix dry dead ends, and

Buy this as part of a gift set, including hand cream 23,00â&#x201A;Ź

bring back your hairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural shine. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hair masks are a great way to put moisture back into your locks,â&#x20AC;? explains Liis. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you are in a hurry, there are even some quick masks that take no more than one minute.â&#x20AC;? Liis explained that if you do have a bit more time, wearing a hair mask in the sauna, can really increase its results. Liis offers one final suggestion for winter hair care. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Blow dry and straighten your hair in moderation, as it can be particularly hard on your hair in winter. And be sure to always use a heat protection spray before blow drying.â&#x20AC;?

Goldwell Satin Guard 200ml 17,30 â&#x201A;Ź Spray onto hair when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dry for moisture protection up to 72 hours and to prevent static.

â&#x2013;

TIGI Bed Head Spoil Me 300ml 21,90â&#x201A;Ź Use this spray before blow-drying to protect your hair from the heat. Use on dry hair to prevent frizz and static.

PROBLEM í˘˛: DRY HAIR FROM INDOOR HEATING AND BLOW DRYING.

Solution: TIGI Bed Head Urban Antidotes Resurrection Use these products in winter to prevent dry hair from breaking. Shampoo 250ml 15,90â&#x201A;Ź Conditioner 200ml 17,90â&#x201A;Ź

L`OREAL Intense Repair

Wella Enrich Series

This series gives intense moisture to your hair without leaving it feeling greasy. It leaves your hair smooth, silky and strong. Shampoo 250ml 11,20â&#x201A;Ź

These products restore hairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moisture, and give a little bit of volume as well. They contain cider extract to leave hair feeling smooth. Available for: thick, normal, and fine hair.

Mask 200ml 16,30â&#x201A;Ź

Shampoo 250ml 11,10â&#x201A;Ź Conditioner 200ml 12,95â&#x201A;Ź Mask 150ml 13,40â&#x201A;Ź

L`OREAL Mythic Oil 125ml 26,00â&#x201A;Ź The Mythic Oil line of products contains avocado and grape seed oil. The oil is best used to repair dry dead ends and adds a sleek shine, while not leaving your hair feeling greasy.

Mere pst

Ahtri

HAIRMAIL

Viru Squere

Narva mnt

Location Hairmail Rotermanni 6, Tallinn A2 www.hairmail.ee


museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

19

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN ■ Museums

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

■ Smaller Galleries

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Draakoni Galerii

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

KUMU is not only a museum; it hosts concerts, shows and other events. It is the perfect place to find inspiration for both the mind, and soul.

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Dec 5, 19.00 Christmas Jazz, The Jacob Karlzon Trio. Dec 6, 19.00 Sofi and the Magic Bird, fairy-tale dance performance. Dec 9, 19.00 Christmas Jazz, Tigran Hamasyan. Dec 12, 19.00 and Dec 14, 20.00 Experimental Concert Performance: Diva Dec 18, 18.00 'Telling the American Story': Let's Talk About Music

19.10.2012–30.12.2012 5th floor, Gallery of Contemporary Art Geometrical Man 14.9.12–20.1.13 Kumu Art Museum IRWIN. Construction of the Context 24.10.12–10.2.13 Kumu Art Museum Avo Keerend and Evi Tihemets. Colour in Estonian Graphic Art 10.11.12–17.3.13 Adamson-Eric Museum Mare Vint. Drawings Through Five Decades 8.12.12–5.5.13 Mikkel Museum

■ OTHER EXHIBITS:

A Collector's Passion. Silver and Prints from the Reinans Collection 08.12.2012–05.05.2013

Archaeology and the Future of Estonian Art Scenes

Fashion and the Cold War 14.09.2012 – 20.01.2013

Pikk 18, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm Mo-Fr 11-18, Sa 11-17

Hobusepea Galerii Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm We-Mo 11-18

Kunstisalong Allee Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.allee.ee Mo-Fr 10-18, Sa 11-15 Tallinna Kunstihoone Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.kunstihoone.ee We-Su 12-18

Vaal Galerii Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn www.vaal.ee. Tu-Fr 12-18, Sa 12-16

Vabaduse Galerii

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Vabaduse väljak 6, Tallinn Old Town, J1 Mo-Fr 10-18

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

TARTU

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

■ Museums

Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

■ DECEMBER EVENTS:

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

KUMU The Art Museum of Estonia

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Riia 15b, Tartu http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Jaani 16, Tartu http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum) Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18 http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)

■ Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 July–Dec 2012 Closed for renovations.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) In 2008, KUMU won the European Museum of the Year Award.

Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Raekoja plats 18, Tartu http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18

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nightlife

20

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

: e e s o G

A 1930s Cabaret Roman Hovenbitzer’s Cabaret premiered October 20 in Tartu.

Welcome in the New Year, Tallinn style This season’s Cabaret is a little bit different than Georg Malviuse’s production ten years ago in Tallinn. Gerli Padar plays the female lead. She plays the character Sally Bowles, a role she will share with Tanja Mihhailova. Mihhailova told Eesti Päevaleht that the role is very dramatic, and one can find musical similarities with ones own life.

Like Bowles says: “Everyone has the right to live however they choose.” Cabaret will come to Tallinn too. Performances take place at the Nokia Concert Hall December 15, and January 2. Tanja Mihhailova will play the lead on the 15th and Gerli Padar, the lead on the 2nd. The musical will have English and Finnish subtitles. Tickets available at Piletilevi.

: t a g n i k n i r d o G

Photo: Andrei Ozdoba

Kohvik Noorus Shots have sounded the death toll to many a great night. Their appearance marks the point at which a pleasant evening turns into something much more sinister and frightening. At Kohvik Noorus, however, the simple shot is the staple drink for one of Tallinn's more cosy and fun venues. Situated away in the Old Town's back streets at Lai 10, the daytime passer-by wouldn't even know that there was a bar there. It's only at night; with a bustling throng of smokers and the old skool tunes blaring out the window that you get any idea that something may be happening there. Upon entering what at first seems like the side-entrance to someone's house,

While Christmas is a time for watching your Aunt Doris get drunk on sherry, New Year's Eve offers the opportunity to forget about the dysfunctional family and indulge in an evening of partying pleasure. One of the joys of Tallinn is that being a European capital city allows it to host far more worthy options for the New Year's Eve partygoer than its size suggests. The vast numbers of clubs that can be found in the town mean that there should be something for everybody. Venus Club's Viva Las Venus offers an American themed start to the New Year. With cocktails galore and the promise of glamorous people and 2001 Eurovision winner Dave Benson, what isn't there to like. 80's and 90's nostalgia seems to be the order of the day with 777 - The Bank Club, hosting early 90's Brit-soul act London Beat, along with the disco divas in cages. Café Amigo at the Sokos Hotel Viru goes for a less raucous, but no less fun affair of Estonian artist Rolf Roosalu's tribute to George Michael. Club Prive offers the opportunity to see in the New Year, slightly richer than before. Their lucky cash cannon will blow

Venus Club Vana-Viru 14 Dress Code: Formal Tickets: 10 advance, 15 on door For ticket info call +3725519999 or email venus@venusclub.ee. 777 The Bank Club Tickets:  25 advance, 35 on door Cafe Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn Old Town Tickets: 13 on door, 8 for VIP card holders

you find yourself thrown into a darkened room of comfy chairs, blackened walls and painted giant mushrooms. It's the acid trip gone wrong. At the bar, you'll find a full list of all the affordable shots with names such as 'Bleeding Wet Pussy;' and as you head to the back, you come across a dance floor sizeable enough for even the worst drunk's party moves. Kohvik Noorus isn't going to be the taste of the leery stag do crowd but it's certainly one of the more fun, alternative bars in the city, and I haven't even spoken about the Tapas. ■

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town Tickets: 20, 15 with flyer info: +372 56 256 000

Location Kohvik Noorus Lai 10, Tallinn Old Town G1. Open 6pm – late

out 2000 at 3.00, allowing you to enjoy a night popping champagne with glamorous people, safe in the knowledge that you'll be able to afford a taxi at the end of the night. For a whole night's entertainment, visit Wabadus restaurant, Club Vabank and Club Bibabo for the price of one. The evening starts at 20.00 with an á la carte dinner, accompanied by operettas in Wabadus, followed by a New Year's Eve party over three floors, adding Vabank and Bibabo from 23:00. The entertainment program includes DJ's, live music, prima ballerinas, and air acrobats! Situated next to the Liberty Square, the three neighbouring restaurant and clubs offer a night to remember.

777 - The Bank Club

Wabadus, Vabank, Bibabo Vabank, Bibabo, Wabadus Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1 Dress Code: formal Tickets: 20:00 entry: 65 for dinner party and club, 35 for snacks and drinks and later entry; entry at 23:00: 25 on door, 15 advance from Piletilevi www.piletilevi.ee www.vabank.ee, www.bibabo.ee, www. wabadus.ee


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nightlife

21

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: e e s o G

Thank you Rock Gods, thank you

Muse's appearance in Estonia goes to show that this is no longer the place where 80's acts come to die. Kim Wilde, Smokie, Right Said Fred: All these bands have played in Tallinn over the last year. This does not inspire the music lover in Tallinn's ability to provide quality entertainment. However, bigger, less past it, acts that are still downloaded on iTunes are starting to appear here. In the recent past we have seen concerts by the Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Mika, and the Manic Street Preachers. Things seem to be moving in the

right direction as shown by the fact that on 11th December at Saku Suurhall, Muse will be performing in Tallinn. Today, Muse are one of the top rock acts in Europe, playing sold out shows across the globe and gaining so much air time on radio and TV, that to describe the band's brand of symphonic rock seems pointless to anybody with the gift of hearing. It's been a long journey from

Photo: Anja Fonseka

their beginnings twenty years ago as a Radiohead covers band. The last year has seen the band build on the Grammy award winning success of their 4th album, Resistance, with the release of a new album, The 2nd Law, and their single Survival being chosen as the official Olympic song. Tickets are still available from ticketpro.ee and start at 59. See sakusuurhall.ee for details. Muse play Saku Suurhall in Tallinn on December 11. ■

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Haunting yet beautiful, the Estonian ex-pat Ingrid Lukas is starting to find major label success, both inside and outside Estonia.

INGRID LUKAS

Unlike many other parts of the world, a classical music education is not something to be ashamed of for any modern act in Estonia. As a result, many fine musicians have been able to sustain their credibility while actually being able to play. This is no truer than with the extremely talented Ingrid Lukas. After three years of studying piano at Tallinna Muusikakeskkool, she decamped to Switzerland and

continued her training in popjazz at HMT Zurich. If the results that one gets from this sort of background are as good as those found on her two albums, 2009's We Need to Repeat and the 2011 major label début, Silver Secrets, then it's a journey that should be taken more often. It would be quite lazy to compare her to Bjork or Kate Bush, although Lukas does share the

Sports

e d i u G Baltic mends: recom

delicate, fragile and tender quality that has made the former stars. Yet, the ethereal, minimalist sound of her voice that can both fascinate and haunt the listener, as well as show an artist with something original to give. With a new album coming out in the near future, we can only hope that she has a career that continues to grow. ■

Nightclubs

Clayhills

Arena 3

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

Drink Baar

BonBon

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

Hell Hunt

CatHouse

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Mad Murphy’s

Club Baila

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Nimeta Baar

Club Hollywood

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Live Music

Club Privé

Café Amigo

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Club Studio

Chicago 1933

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Panoraam

Clazz

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Parlament

Guitar Hunt

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Partei

Rock Café

Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Plub

Von Krahl

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

Town H1

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

Tallinn Nightlife Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3


22

history

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

z A Brief History of Estonia

Hortus Musicus celebrates 40 years 10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia. 11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed. 1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia. 1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success. 1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order. 1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa). 1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule. 1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000. 1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad. 1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility. 1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government. 1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces. 1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu. 1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed. 1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree. 1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation. 1939 The German-Soviet Non-Aggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia. 1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union. 1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again. 1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight. 1948 25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000. 1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian. 1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa. 1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988. 1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow. 2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

The Estonian ensemble Hortus Musicus can look back on 40 years of continuous success.

Audiences are still fascinated with Hortus Musicus. TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO HEIKKI LEIS

The first concert was given in November 1972, in the historical Kiek-in de Kök fortification tower in Tallinn. The father, and founder of the group Andres Mustonen, then a violin student, is still a most innovative and highly appreciated leader of the group. Unfortunately, it is difficult to estimate the value and the impact of music exports from Estonia. No doubt Hortus Musicus is one of the best-known Estonian export items, culturally speaking. The ensemble has given concerts all over the globe. Hortus Musicus has been focusing on European church music from the 8th to 15th centuries, through Gregorian chant, Hymns, and Renaissance music ever since its founding. There is constant change, but Hortus Musicus can always be recognised. Arvo Pärt, the well-known Estonian contemporary composer has written music specifically for Hortus Musicus. Pärt and other prominent Estonian musicians were forced to leave Estonia in the 1980s. Their music and interpretation was considered too

dangerous for the Soviet State! It is difficult to understand on what grounds irrelevant and incompetent censors made their decisions about what kind of music was acceptable, and what not. 1972 was a dark period in the history of Estonia. The relative liberalism of the 1960s had been replaced by the rigid policies of Brezhnev. Churches and sacred things were frowned upon. Music was censored and all repertoires were thoroughly scrutinised before they could be approved for concert performances. The purity and mysticism of Hortus Musicus and their spiritual music hit the hearts of the audiences. People were longing for music and underlying that, something that was far from the lies of the communist ideology. Besides, what could be more obvious than medieval music in a medieval town? Audiences are still fascinated by Hortus Musicus. Their performances are well refined, and their repertoire is renewed constantly. Hortus Musicus is only getting better and better, from an already amazingly high level! ■

■ HORTUS MUSICUS DECEMBER CONCERTS Dec 1, 16.00 Christmas music from the British Isles, Väravatorn (Gate Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1 Dec 8, 16.00 Christmas music from France, Väravatorn (Gate Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1 Dec 20, 19 .00 Concert in Haapsalu, Haapsalu Kultuurikeskus Dec 22, 16.00 Christmas music from Germany, Väravatorn (Gate

Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1 Dec 27, 19.00 Hortus Musicus and Collegium Musicale, Jaani Church, Tallinn Old Town J2 Dec 29, 15.00 Hortus Musicus and Collegium Musicale, Jaani Church, Tallinn Old Town J2 December 30, 16.00 Concert in Väravatorn (Gate Tower), Tallinn Old Town H1

St. Nicholas' Church – a museum and concert hall TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

St. Nicholas' Church (Niguliste kirik) was once one of the wealthiest, most magnificent and beau-

tiful churches in Tallinn, with a history dating back to the 13th century. The glory of the Hanseatic times and the prosperity of the local merchants is expressed by valuable pieces of art from Europe. The most noteworthy is the painting Danse Macabre by the Lübeck master Bernt Notke. All pieces and much more are on display. The church was more or less destroyed during Soviet air raids in WWII. Strangely enough, rereconstruction started in 1953, in what was then, atheist Soviet Estonia. The work was completed in 1984. Ever since, St Nicholas’ Church has housed a museum and concert hall. The acoustics are excellent. ■

■ DECEMBER CONCERTS AT ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH Popular 30-minute organ concerts are given every Saturday and Sunday at 16.00. They offer time for contemplation during the Christmas frenzy. St. Nicholas Church (Niguliste Kirik) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town I1

Dec 8, 12.00 The Flora Chamber Choir Dec 9, 18.00 Chamber Choir Studium Vocale Dec 15, 12.00 Tallinn Music High School Dec 18, 19.00 Christmas Concert

St Nicholas’ Museum The St Nicolas’ Museum presents ecclesiastical art from the Medieval and Early Modern periods, with the most significant and extensive collection of church art in Estonia. Throughout the first half of 2013 visitors can visit the exhibition "Ars moriendi – the Art of Dying". It concentrates on the

memorial, funeral and sepulchral cultures of medieval and Early Modern periods. Perhaps it seems weird to talk about death in the joyful month of December. Whatever, Ars moriendi is most fascinating The St Nicholas’ Church museum is part of the Art Museum of Estonia. ■


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Must-see sights of Tallinn Tallinn with a view The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. The lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town can be seen from viewing platforms at Toompea. The best view of Toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s Church.

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower. ■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell). ■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Toompea Castle species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. ■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old Tallinn. The wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of Estonian independence. In recent years, this area has become

Town Hall Square ■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. ■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building. ■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ 3 Kiriku Platform The platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view

■ 4 Best of both worlds Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the upper town. ■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower. The Toompea Tower (15th century) and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. The 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from Lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will greet you!

The snow-covered Song Festival Grounds ■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution. ■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here. ■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter. Town Hall Pharmacy

■ 1 Kohtu Platform The Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old Town and is a must-see. After a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The gracious spire of the medieval City Hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy Spirit). The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. ■ 2 Patkul Platform The Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angel. The harbour and the sea are lying just in front. The Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city centre, and to the Tallinn railway station. Take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the Estonian government. Tallinn

of splendid and romantic sunsets. The area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other platforms.

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare

Patarei Prison

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.


M O B E R 2 0 1 21

24

useful information

TALLINN

24

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

■ Post Office

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare

Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia

■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222. ■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777.

2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10. SadaMarket, Kai 5.

How to make a phone call ■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to another country: + (country code)(phone number)

WIFI Networks There are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee. Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service provider.

Event Tickets Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is available in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Mustikas keskus, A. H.Tammsaare tee 116. Solaris, Estonia pst 9. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.

■ Currency Exchange How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted. Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.


25

Train Station

Map of Old Town is on the next page.

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Linda Line terminal Travel Port Terminal A, B, C Terminal D

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Nõmme tee C1 Nunne A1 Odra C3 Õilme C2 Olevimägi A2 Oleviste A2 Oru A5 Paadi A3 Pae C5 Pagari A2 Paldiski mnt B1 Pallasti C4 Pärna B3 Pärnu mnt B2 Peterburi tee C4 Piiskopi B1 Pikk jalg B2 Pirita tee A5 Planeedi C1 Põhja puiestee A2 Poska B4 Pronksi B3 Pühavaimu B2 Puhke C2 Rahukohtu B1 Rannamäe tee A1 Rannamäe tee A2 Rataskaevu B2 Raua B3 Rävala pst B2 Ravi C2 Roheline Aas B4 Rohu B1 Roopa B1 Roosikrantsi B2 Rumbi A2 Rüütli B2 Sadama A2 Sakala B2 Salme A1 Saturni C1 Sauna B2 Sikupilli C4 Soo A1 Spordi C1 Süda C2 Sügise B1 Suur-Ameerika C1 Suur-Karja B2 Suur-Kloostri A2 Suur-Laagri A1 Suur-Sõjamäe C5 Suurtüki A2 Tare C2 Tartu mnt B3 Tatari B2 Tehnika B1 Telliskivi A1 Terase B3 Tina B3 Tobiase B3 Tolli A2 Tõllu A1 Tõnismägi C2 Toom-Kooli B1 Toom-Kuninga C1 Toom-Rüütli B1 Toompea B1 Toompuiestee B1 Tööstuse A1 Tormi A4 Tuha C5 Türnpu B4 Turu B3 Tuukri A3 Tuulemäe C5 Tuvi C1 Ülemiste C4 Uue Maailma C1 Uus A2 Vabriku A1 Väike-Ameerika C1 Väike-Karja B2 Vaikne C2 Vaimu A2 Valge B5 Valgevase A1 Vana-kala maja A1 Vana-Lõuna C2 Vana-Viru B2 Vase B3 Veerenni C2 Veetorni C1 Vene B2 Vesivärava B4 Videviku C1 Villardi B1 Vilmsi B3 Virmalise C1 Virmalise C1 Viru B2 Võistluse C3 Volta A1 Weizenbergi A4 Wiedemanni B4 Wismari B1

LIST OF STREETS

DECEMBER 2012


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The Baltic Guide ENG December 2012  

The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...

The Baltic Guide ENG December 2012  

The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...

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