The Baltic Guide ENG October 2012

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October Events Visit Tartu Interview: Reet Aus Late night eats Estonian spas Museums Sightseeing

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

5 Contents

Autumn’s appeal

F

or those of you that decided to wait until peak tourist season died down to visit Tallinn, it was worth the wait! Autumn is one of the best times to visit. The colours of the leaves are changing. The air is crisp. And as you wander through the streets of the Old Town of Tallinn, the smell of wood fire smoke wafts through the narrow passages. Step inside a café to warm up with coffee or schnapps. Visit one of the city’s many museums on a rainy day, like the newly opened Museum of Natural History. And take the time to savour some culinary delights in one of Tallinn’s many great restaurants. Why not take in a show at the Estonia theatre? Enjoy opera, theatre, and music all under one roof, right in the heart of the city centre.

The theme of design continues throughout the fall with the beginning of Tallinn Fashion Week in the last week of October. This year the event takes place in Kalamaja’s Telliskivi Cultural Hub. See Estonia’s top designers come together to show off their latest creations. Or peruse clothing and accessories at the pop-up shop that is open for the length of Fashion Week.

No matter what your interests are, you won’t be disappointed.

5 editorial 6-7 TOP 5, sights 8 day tripping 10 events 11 Sightseeing 12 culture 13 beauty 16 spa 18-19 Tartu 20 culture 21 what's happening

Welcome to Tallinn.

14-15

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

restaurants Restaurant Nevskij Must lammas Clayhills ......

17

Changing times

person Fashion Designer Reet Aus

Estonia has reformed its economy, built a lot of new buildings, roads, and businesses during the past two decades. Economic and political integration with Europe has been a goal that has been more or less achieved through membership in the EU (including the Schengen zone and eurozone), NATO, and OECD. In terms of social attitudes, the difference between Estonia and the European average has been

Social attitudes have started to change in Estonia, making it a better place to live for everyone. decreasing much more slowly. Estonia has the highest gender pay gap in the EU, and there are still signs of wide-spread racism and homophobia. The benefits and value of equality and diversity have not been explained well enough to the Estonian people by its politicians, many of whom

The Baltic Guide still have Soviet-era mindsets when it comes to minorities.

However, things have been slowly changing regardless. I recently discovered that a Japanese food store has opened in Kunderi street near my office and it made me think about how far Tallinn and the whole of Estonia has come in terms of the diversity of its people. This is backed up by the latest census data: there are now people from 192 different nationalities living in Estonia, up from 142 in 2000. Estonians have also become more tolerant towards gay and lesbian people, with roughly the same number supporting than opposing registered partnerships for same-sex couples.

These are small but significant signs that social attitudes have also started to change in Estonia, making it a better place to live for everyone.

Kari Käsper is the Director of Estonian Human Rights Centre and lecturer of European law at Tallinn University of Technology, where he manages the "Diversity Enriches" project.

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

OCTOBER 2012

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Distribution Network PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Make-up: Reet Härmat Style: Ženja Fokin Clothes: Liina Stein (www.steinly.com) Accessories: Glanz & Glamuur

6 news

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

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The kindred football match

In October, Estonia plays against Hungary in Tallinn.

TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO: LEMBIT PEEGEL

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

Last autumn’s EURO Cup qualifier showed the great spirit of the Estonian team, despite their loss and this year we will watch them compete again in the FIFA World Cup qualifying match.

Estonia falls into the same group as Hungary, Turkey, Romania, Andorra, and Holland, who find themselves leading in

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this group. Estonia already played Romania this autumn and lost 2:0. About 8000 football fans viewed the match.

In October, Estonia plays Hungary.

They have already beat Hungary once in an earlier match.

Tickets can be purchased on-line from Piletilevi for 11-13. The match starts at 21.30 on October 12th at the A. Le Coq Stadium (Asula 4c, Tallinn). â–

INDIAN RESTAURANT

October TOP 5 Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

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Photo: Concert Organizer

The National Opera of Estonia began its 107th season in September. Their first performance was Charles Gounod’s Faust. This year’s program will also feature Sergei Prokofiev’s ballet Cinderella, as well as many more exciting performances in the winter and spring.

Sai

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01 New opera season

Open Everyday 11-23 MĂźndi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

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epa

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.

Excellent prices

Viru

The last rally of the year will take place October 12-13 in Saaremaa. This rally is part of the Estonian Master’s series and the northern European FIA NEZ Rally Cup race.

03 Piano virtuoso festival

-30%

This already popular piano festival will take place again from October 26th – November 11th in Tallinn.

The French piano virtuoso CĂŠdric Tiberghien, together with the Estonian National Symphony Orchestra will open the performance.

with this coupon!

Rival Sons

04 True rock’n’roll

, Tallinn

The American band Rival Sons, a true blues rock band that have been compared to Led Zeppelin and The Doors, will play a very lively concert on October 9th at the Rock CafĂŠ in Tallinn.

05 Chick Corea Trio The 18-Grammy award winning American jazz pianist Chick Corea will perform in Tallinn on November 14th at the Nokia Concert Hall. This truly outstanding trio includes top pianist Christian McBride and drummer Brian Blade.

Chick Corea

sights 7

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Liisu Juures

A walk around Old Town Once you have discovered Tallinn’s Old Town, take a look at it from outside the impressive city wall!

Enjoy the vibrant colours of the autumn leaves in October and the invigoratingly crisp air.

(At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

Welcome!

..

News: Breakfast served 10–12 with free vodka shot

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BELLY DANCING OPEN EVERYDAY 12–24 // RAEKOJA PLATS 13, TALLINN // TEL. +372 6 444 367, +372 5 163 7233 Fri, Sat 20-21 Freedom Square

The Baltic Guide is now on Facebook!

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ Freedom Square The Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak) is a blend of everything from the medieval period to the 20th century. Go underground and discover probably the most unique parking garage built around the old wall. From the square you have a stunning view of the fortifications and bastions. It is dominated however, by the controversial Freedom Monument, controversial not because of its existence, but because of its design. Further up the hill, the impressive Kiek in de Kök tower can also be seen.

Tallinn Old Town Map Code: J1

■ The Tower Square The Tower square (Tornide väljak) is actually a lush park running along the most impressive part of the entire city wall. The towers have peculiar low-German names with gates leading into the labyrinths of the Old Town.

Tallinn Map Code: A2

let us know what you think, leave your comments and suggestions

The medieval 46-meter high Tall Hermann tower (Pikk Hermann) is the symbol of Estonia. The blue-black-white tricolour is hoisted every day at sunrise and lowered at dusk. The flag represents the ruler of the country. The tower and the impressive Toompea Castle can best been seen from Falgi street.

Tallinn Map Code: B1

The area between the railroad and the Old Town is made up of a green belt. From the Shnelli Pond, once part of the fortification, the palaces at the Domehill (Toompea) or the upper part of the Old Town can be seen.

It was once the home of the German-Baltic noblility. If you want some exercise, climb the Patkull stairs for a wonderful view of the city wall from above.

Tallinn Map Code: A-B 1

get the latest info on tourism in Estonia be the first to know about upcoming events

■ Tall Hermann Tower

■ Fortification Dams and Towers

'Like' us and....

■ Fat Margareta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn.

She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 meters and the walls are up to 6.5 meters thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea.

Tallinn Map Code: A2 ■

day tripping

8

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

Tallinn

TALLINN

Estonia: Quick Trips

Rakvere

Not sure what to do while you’re in Estonia? Too much to see, too little time? The Baltic Guide is here to help. We’ve put together a few suggestions for you.

Day 1 in Tallinn

From Tallinn, about 180km southeast, is the university town of Tartu. Daily connections by train or bus from Tallinn are convenient and inexpensive. (For more information, timetables and ticket prices visit: www.bussireisid.ee; www.edel.ee) Visitor information: www.visittartu.com See page 20 for Tartu city map.

Shopping: For some unique souvenirs, visit Oma Asi (Saiakang 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2). Here you’ll find distinctive handicrafts including knitwear and jewellery. Nu Nordik (Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J1) has modern Estonian designs, including clothing, jewellery and home décor items. A. Galerii (Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) features mostly modern Estonian jewellery.

Take a walk through Tartu’s Old Town. Visit the Town Hall Square to see good examples of neoclassical and late-baroque architecture. The fountain in the middle of the square in front of the Town Hall features a young couple kissing under an umbrella in the rain. About a block from the square is the main building for Tartu University (Ülikooli tnv 18, Tartu). A little further on are the Botanical Gardens (Lai 40, Tartu) that have an impressive collection of over 6500 plant species, many of which are housed in a giant greenhouse.

Church: Visit the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral (Lossi plats, Tallinn Map Code B1). Built between 1894-1900, this Orthodox cathedral was part of the Russification of the Baltic provinces in the last quarter of the 19th century.

Museum: The Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) was recently renovated in 2011.

This museum has wonderful exhibits to help you get acquainted with Estonia’s past. Free entry on the last Thursday of every month.

Dinner: Get a taste of the Russian side of Estonia with a meal at Troika (Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Try a selection of Russian dumplings (pelmeenid), roasted eel, or bear meat stew. Then wash it all down with a shot of vodka.

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Day 2 in Tallinn:

Take a walk, or rather hop on the City Tour bus to see greater Tallinn. Get off at Kadriorg Park (Tallinn Map Code A4), and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. Or stay on the bus and visit the ruins of the Pirita Convent (Merivälja tee 18).

Tartu

1 Day in Tartu:

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Take a walk through Tallinn’s Old Town, and up the hill to Toompea.

Toompea, located on the upper part of the Old Town has great views over the city and the Gulf of Finland. In the lower part of the centre, wander through narrow streets and get a true feeling for this medieval northern town.

Lunch: Enjoy a quick medieval lunch at the Town Hall (Reakoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Elk soup and traditional ale are served in earthenware bowls and cups. Stuffed pastries (pirukad) are baked throughout the day, and are worth the wait, should they run out. Too nice to sit inside? As the weather warms up, patios pop up all over the Town Hall Square, a great place to people-watch.

Tartu

Day Trip from Tallinn: RAKVERE: is located close to Lahemaa National Park, a favourite place for hiking in the summer. About 100km east of Tallinn, Rakvere is the fifth largest city in Estonia.

Rakvere Castle Ruins: This is the city’s main attraction. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber.

Town Hall Square: Built in 2004, this is probably Estonia’s most modern town hall square.

Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity: (Pikk 19, Rakvere) A medieval church built in the 17th century with a strangely tall and slim spire.

Rakvere Town Citizen’s Home Museum: (Pikk 50) Get a feel for life in Estonia at the end of the 19th century. This museum showcases how people lived in Rakvere at the time.

Dining: Try the Art Café (Lai 13), for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It has a cosy, yet modern interior. Taste their selection of savoury pancakes.

Museum: Visit the Estonian National Museum (Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu). This museum displays temporary and permanent exhibits about Estonian history and culture. It is a wonderful place to become acquainted with Estonian customs and life in Estonia. Or, for something a little different, visit the Toy Museum (Lutsu 8, Tartu). Fun for both children and adults, this museum showcases everything from traditional Finno-Ugric toys, to nostalgic toys from the Soviet era.

Lunch: Enjoy a quiet lunch at the Eduard Wilde Café (Vallikraavi 4, Tartu). This restaurant has a large patio open in the summertime. Their long menu has everything from curries to schnitzels, Caesar salad to crispy pork salad.

Church: Founded in 1330, the Jaani Church (Jaani 5, Tartu) has been rebuilt many times. Despite being ruined by Soviet bombing in 1944, its restoration reflects the original structure. Enjoy 15 minutes of music every Tuesday and Friday at 12.15pm.

Dinner: Built in a former gunpowder cellar, the Püssirohukelder (Lossi 28, Tartu) is a unique place to come for good hearty food. Popular among students, this pub often features live music.

Evening entertainment: Enjoy everything from ballet, opera, musicals, and children’s plays at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre (Vanemuise 6, Tartu). For more information and tickets visit www.vanemuine.ee)

Museum: Visit the KUMU Art Museum (Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn Map Code B4) in Kadriorg. Admire Estonian art from the beginning of the 18th century to present. The gallery also has a café with a nice view over the park.

Lunch: Get a taste for modern inspired Estonian and Russian food at Kohvik Moon (Võrgu 3, Tallinn Map Code A2). Try the Siberian dumplings in mushroom stock, or the herring. Bookings recommended.

Church: Experience another great view over the city from the tower of the Oleviste Church (Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2). Once the tallest structure in Northern Europe, this church was dedicated to the 11th century Norwegian King Olaf II. During the Soviet period, it worked as a surveillance centre for the KGB. Dinner: Restaurant Ö (Mere pst 6E, Tallinn Map Code B2) serves modern Estonian food, using fine local ingredients and experimenting with traditional flavours. Try the six-course degustation menu to get a taste of what modern Estonian cuisine is all about.

Evening Entertainment: Take in a performance at the Estonian National Opera and the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2). Enjoy opera, ballet, or a concert in this theatre founded at the beginning of the 20th century. For tickets and information: www.opera.ee; www.concert.ee

Photo: Toomas Tuul The 'kissing fountain' is located in Tartu's Town Hall Square.

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

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October special! www.chateau.ee

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Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

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10

october events

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

Tallinn International Horse Show 2012 The Tallinn International Horse Show (FEI World Cup Event) is an international show jumping competition that has already become a tradition in Tallinn. This year the show celebrates its 10th anniversary. During the three days, follow the performance of domes-

tic and foreign entertainers and the efforts of the best European riders and horses competing for top honours. ■

Saku Suurhall, Tallinn, October 5-7 www.tallinnhorseshow.ee

German Film Festival Enjoy contemporary and first class German films at the German Film Festival, arranged in cooperation with the Goethe Institut and the Tallinn PÕFF Black Nights Film Festival.

Soviet Estonian Fashion The KUMU Art Museum is currently displaying an exhibition on fashion in Soviet Estonia during the 1950s and 1960s with Western fashion from the same period on display to compare. Estonia was cut off from the West in the

1950s. The 1960s were somewhat more liberal, with outside influences, especially from Finland. The Tallinn Fashion House inspired women from all over the Soviet Union and became the most popular of its kind. ■

KUMU Art Museum, Tallinn Map Code B4 On display from 14 October – 20 January www.ekm.ee

Films will be shown in Tallinn at the Sõprus Cinema, October 5-16 and at the Tartu Athena Centre, October 7-13. ■

www.saksakino.ee

Cabaret!

If you still haven't seen the world famous classic cabaret, this is your chance to see it in Tallinn. This year the largest Estonian theatre, Vanemuine in Tartu, will house the production.

Cabaret has been hugely successful all over the world, thanks to its enthralling music and fantastic

show, combined with a serious theme that always touches and moves the audience.

Cabaret is sung in Estonian with English and Finnish subtitles. ■

Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn, October 28. http://www.vanemuine.ee

Art Teddy Planet The Teddy Bear celebrates 110 years

Feel like a kid again and indulge in a fantasy world with your kids or grand children at the Saku Suurhall. The Saku Suurhall will be filled with bears of all sizes and generations. Enjoy workshops, performances, and music. A true family event! ■

Saku Suurhall, Tallinn, October 27-28 www.artplanet.eu

Hortus Musicus 40 The Estonian music group Hortus Musicus celebrates 40 years of world-renowned success with a series of concerts in Tallinn.

Andres Mustonen, who is still leading the group and specialising in early music from the 8th -15th century founded Hortus Musicus.

The repertoire includes Gregorian chant, medieval hymns, motets and renaissance music. Constant renewal is on the agenda, however the identity of Hortus Musicus is clearly recognisable. Over 35 recordings have been made. In recent years contemporary Esto-

nian composers, such as Arvo Pärt, have been added. ■

Tallinn, October 6, 13, 20 and 27.

Tickets and information: www. concert.ee

City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra The concert by the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra will be the highlight of the Tallinn concert season this fall. Latvian Andris Nlesons, one of the most sought after young conductors

on the international scene will lead the orchestra, which will be devoted to Johannes Brahms’, Violin Concerto in D-major op. 77 and Symphony no 4 in e-minor op. 98. ■

Estonia Concert Hall, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J3 October 16 Tickets and information: www. concert.ee

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

sightseeing

11

Tallinn by foot, bus, and bicycle Guided tours that will appeal to every interest TEXT MARK BENN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV

With the summer season coming to an end, many companies are still going strong, offering informative and economical trips well into the winter months.

There are a number of bus operators that offer guided tours

of the city. City Tour operates buses with audio commentaries in 10 different languages and provides a hop on, hop off service to enjoy sights outside the city centre. In October they run two buses

per day on their three routes and tickets can be purchased on board that will cover you over one, two or three days starting at 16.

City Sightseeing offers a sunshine friendly open top bus for touring the city with 5 buses a day.

The 50 minute journey with commentary in 8 languages, stops at all

the important sights, costing 15.

Reisiekspert provides a two and a half hour combined bus and walking tour with commentary in English and Finnish. Guides take you through the Old Town,

Hop on and hop off the City Tour bus at many of Tallinn's top sights.

Kadriorg and the Song Festival Grounds, with three buses picking up passengers at all of Tallinn’s

major hotels. Tickets cost 20.

They also offer an art trip which takes in Kadriorg and the fantastic KUMU Art Museum with tickets at just 26.

But for those not looking for a

bus tour, other options are available. Tallinn Traveller offers some funky options. These include the two-hour Tallinn free tour, starting at 12:00 daily from the Tallinn tourist information centre, no booking needed. Local students share their knowledge while getting a bit of extra money through tips. Private bookings can also be made, with a trip for four at any time costing just 10 per head. Tours can be conducted in 6 different languages. Bookings can be made through the website.

Tallinn Traveller offers a number of other trips starting at their information centre on Vana-Posti.

A scary ghost tour takes place on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 21:00. This two hour investigation of Tallinn's paranormal costs just 13. Seasoned drinkers may find the Tallinn Pub-crawl worth a look. For 16 you can sample a number of bars, 6 shots, a beer or cider, and the partying advice of a local. They'll also get you into the club for free!

If you would prefer to use a little bit of pedal power, then the funky bike tour could be for you.

The tour takes you to the trendy Kalamaja district and Patarei Prison – places that the average tourist doesn't get to see. The tour sets out at 12:00 and costs just 13 for three and a half hours. These other trips can also be booked privately.

Another company that specialises in cycling tours is Citybike, who have 10 years of experience, 180 bikes and all the accessories you need at their office at Uus 13.

At 11.00 everyday there is a two and a half hour introductory bike tour of Tallinn in English, which takes place if even just one person turns up! The cost is just 16 per person (including all the essentials). Bookings should be made 1 hour before departure.

Citybike also runs a number of other interesting tours such as trips to Lahemaa National Park; a mammoth 8 hour ride that starts at 9.00 for just 49, and in summer there is the Soviet Bike tour for those interested in the ESSR.

They also have a walking tour that takes in entry to one of Tallinn's more interesting sites: the bastion tunnels. This threehour tour takes place everyday (though Mondays the tunnels are closed) starting at 14.00. The cost is 16 (or 10.25 if you don't want to go underground) and must be booked by 11.00 on the same day.

A minimum number of two participants are required.

Citybike are also willing to take private bookings, starting at a time the client wants, for just 25 and can provide tours in Finnish, German, Spanish, or Russian as well as English. Just contact them by email if interested.

■

Tallinn Card If you're looking to take part in some of Tallinn's tours, it may be worthwhile investing in a Tallinn Card. This card allows you to gain free access to City Tour buses, the old town walking tour, the bus and walking tour, the Bicycle welcome tour, and others. Up to 50% discounts are also available on other trips and savings can be made at attractions round the city. It can be purchased in most hotels, travel agents and tourist information centres as well as the ferry, bus and train stations, and the airport. It costs €12 for 6 hours, €24 for 24h, €32 for 48h and €40 for 72. Visit www.tourism.tallinn.ee for more details Citytour +372 627 9080/53429964. info@citytour.ee www.citytour.ee City Sightseeing +3726558328 info@citysightseeing.ee www.citysightseeing.ee Reisiekspert. + 372 6 108 616. incoming@reisiekspert.ee www.reisiekspert.ee Tallinn Traveller +372 5837 4800. tallinn@traveller.ee. http://www.traveller.ee/ CityBike. +372 5111 819 mail@citybike.ee www.citybike.ee

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museums

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October News More flights on hiatus The low-cost carrier Ryanair has confirmed that more flights to Tallinn will be on a winter break this year. London, Oslo, and Milan connections will remain open, but flights to Barcelona, Bremen, Dublin, Düsseldorf, and Stockholm will finish service in late October and early November. According to Ryanair's sales marketing executive for the Nordic and Baltic region Elina Hakkarainen, the cuts are related to rising oil prices, making it more difficult for the carrier to offer lowcost flights.

A wild museum The Estonian Museum of Natural History reopened in mid-September after completed renovations.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Museum of Natural History is situated on Lai street in the heart of the Old Town. One could refer to this street as the museum street; here you can also find the History Museum’s Great Guild Hall, the Doll Museum, the Health Museum, and the Design Museum.

The Nature Museum is not very big, but the exhibits take up three floors. On the lower level,

Latvian PM voices support for Baltic airline merger Although there has been no serious discussion of a merger between AirBaltic and Estonian Air, the Latvian prime minister and transport minister have voiced their support for a united Baltic carrier. Both of the airlines have been hit hard by increasing fuel prices. AirBaltic suffered losses of 120.1 million euros in 2011 and it is thought that it will be very difficult to find investors for a united carrier.

Supermarket sets age limit for buying energy drinks As of September, the supermarket chain Rimi in Estonia has set an age limit of 16 for buying energy drinks. Other supermarket chains, Selver, Prisma, and Maxima in Estonia said that they would not follow this example. This new restriction has been put in place to promote healthy living among young people, and while there is not enough data on the negative side effects to set a national restriction, frequent consumption of energy drinks has been linked to increased headaches, fainting, and heart palpitations.

Luxury apartments in former KGB headquarters The first of the 40 planned luxury apartments on Pagari street in Tallinn’s Old Town is now ready for viewing. The building was first used in the 1920s to house government departments and was then taken over by the NKVD. This building became associated with intense interrogation and a possible ticket to Siberia. Ex-KGB headquarters in other former Soviet states have been opened as museums. The building is currently owned by the Singaporean company Tolaram Grupp and the project has been considered by some to be controversial.

familiarise yourself with Estonian fish. This exhibit changes regularly.

The permanent exhibits are found in the rooms of the upper floors, where there are many animals on display. Foreign animals are on display in one room, and the other rooms display Estonian fauna in various environments.

Forest dwelling animals include moose, wild boar, bear and so on. Birds mainly live in the mar-

There are many animals of display at the museum.

shes, and fish in bodies of water.

In the display cases you will also find insects. Not all of the animals have been stuffed, there are live fish swimming in aquariums to observe as well.

The entire museum is nice and compact. There is plenty learn and you can really get up close to the animals to get a good look. The size of some animals may surprise you, like the wild boar or the emperor penguin. The abundance

of the species is also surprising, especially when they are together in one room.

■

Location Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum), Lai 29A. Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2 Open W–Su 10–17 http://www.loodusmuuseum.ee

A virtual sea of maritime discoveries If you haven’t visited The Seaplane Harbour yet, here are just some of the things you’ve been missing.

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s.

Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British twoseat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying foldingwing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for the postal service.

Wandering through the museum you hear the constant sound of artillery coming from the huge costal artillery gun batteries, which formed Peter the Great’s Naval Fortress from 1916-1917 across the Gulf of Finland from Estonia to Finland. Next to the batteries, get up close to real tanks and armoured vehicles from WWII. At first glance one might wonder why there are so many small rowing boats, as if you hadn’t seen enough of them already.

But according to our guide, these hardly seaworthy vessels carried thousands of Estonians trying to escape to the West from the occupying Soviet forces in 1944.

Price hike for domestic ferries Starting in February, the Economic Affairs Ministry is considering raising ferry ticket prices by 25%. The proposed price increase is as follows: a full fare to Saaremaa will be 3€ and 8€ with car. To Hiiumaa, passengers can expect to pay 3.50€ full fare and 9€ with car. 2007 was the last year when ticket prices were raised.

Airplanes and boats hang from the ceiling of the museum.

This building had the largest armoured concrete ceiling at the time of construction.

In the harbour area of the museum, see a real icebreaker, the steam engine Suur-Tõll. It was retired a long time ago, but it is nevertheless interesting to wander through its narrow corridors.

The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar.

The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Still today, the dome shaped ceiling is impressive.

The best way to learn about the exhibition is with a professional guide. The Seaplane Museum is

very interactive and invites visitors to participate and explore. ■

Location Seaplane Harbour, Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn Getting there: On foot: From the Viru Centre along Merepuiestee to Linnahall, and then along the Cultural Kilometre.

By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the stop of Linnahall. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

By bus: Bus No. 3 from the Hobujaama station to the stop of Linnahall. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

By car by the Merepuiestee and SuurPatarei. Free parking is available next to the museum. www.lennusadam.eu

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beauty

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■ Tallinn Fashion Week

Individual quality The Freywille shop in Tallinn brings international style to Estonia’s jewellery market.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

The start of Pärnu mnt is slowly becoming Tallinn’s high fashion area. The latest addition to this strip is Freywille, which sells jewellery, silk products, and other valuable items. In the same area you will find Burberry, Armani, and Gant.

Freywille is an Austrian company, which at the moment has 90 shops around the world. The most notable and unique items that Freywille sells are their gold and enamel jewellery. You can find colourful bracelets, earrings, cufflinks, belts, watches, and more.

As soon as you walk in the shop, the bright colours and unique designs immediately catch your attention.

Colourful silk shawls hang from the walls of the store. Shawls cost around 65 and you can buy some jewellery to match. There is a large selection, of which some

pieces are gold and some are gold plated. Men can get a silk tie for about 150. You certainly find value for money, especially when you take into consideration the luxury and individual quality of the items. ■

Location Freywille, Pärnu mnt 12, Tallinn Old Town Map Code I2. http://www.frey-wille.com

At-a-glance: When? October 22-27, 2012 Where? Telliskivi Cultural Hub (Telliskivi Loomelinnak), Tallinn More info? http://www.estonianfashion.eu https://www.facebook.com/tallinnfashionweek Tallinn Fashion Week will take place for the 6th year in a row. This time the event will be held at the Telliskivi Cultural Hub (Telliskivi Loomelinnak) in the eclectic neighbourhood of Kalamaja. Newly renovated for this fall, the F and B buildings (F-Hoone, B-Hoone) of the centre will house the various events throughout the course of the week. The F-hoone (small hall) has about 200 seats and the main hall or B-Hoone, 600 seats. Starting on October 22, a pop-up shop of top Estonian designers showcasing their fall and winter collections will open in F-Hoone. In addition to this great space, the F-Hoone café will house events, as well as the nearby Boheem, and Kukeke cafés.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25 18.00 Absolut’s grantee Liina-Mai Püüa small hall 19.00 Ingrid Paats, Diana Denissova main hall 20.00 Triinu Pungits small hall 21.00 Vera Lustina, Piret Ilves main hall FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26 18.00 Vilve Unt small hall 19.00 Kaubamaja main hall 20.00 Thea Pilvet small hall 21.00 Katrin Kuldma, Oksana Tandit main hall SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27 17.00 Marimo Fashion, Eva Anders, Marija Posa main hall 18.00 Kirill Safonov small hall 19.00 Antonio, Tiina Talumees main hall 20.00 Liisi Eesmaa small hall 21.00 Aldo Järvsoo, Britt Samoson main hall

Tallinn Fashion Week brings together top Estonian designers.

Spa bliss Pamper yourself in the heart of Tallinn.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Baltic Guide loves Babor Spa. At the beginning of the year we visited this central Tallinn luxury spa to try a few treatments. Since then, Babor Spa has added some new procedures to their already fabulous list of services. Why not try a Luxurious Rose Spa Manicu-

re (33) or pedicure (59). In addition to a classic manicure or pedicure, hands and feet are soaked in fragrant rose petal water and coated in paraffin wax that leaves the skin feeling smooth and silky.

If you have a bit more time to spend at the spa, then the new Asian Rejuvenating Package (179) is a good choice. This three-

The Beleza do Brazil Wellness Treatment is both energising and relaxing.

hour treatment includes an herbal bath, body treatment with Thai massage, facial, and salt chamber therapy, with tea and snacks included.

The Baltic Guide decided to try the Beleza do Brazil Wellness Treatment (99). As with all of the treatments at Babor Spa, upon entering you leave the stress of the outside world behind. Slippers and a robe are immediately offered to you and you can enjoy a cup

of tea in a lounge chair while waiting for your treatment to begin.

A welcoming ritual of a warm towel wrap for your feet starts the treatment. After, a fine mist of scented mineral water is sprayed over your body. This mist is sprayed between each of the steps of treatment as well. Your body is then scrubbed and the massage begins with citrus scented oil. The treatment finished with a short facial. I left feeling energised yet

relaxed and the smell of the citrus scented oil used in the massage lingered on my skin.

The Babor Spa offers many great treatments and packages.

Arrange a spa day with your friends, with lunch and sauna included. ■

Location Babor Spa Narva mnt 5, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.baborspa.ee

Map Code A2.

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restaurants

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■ Kompott

■ Kukeke

Kompott has moved from its Narva mnt location (across the street from Tallinn University) to a cosy space in the Old Town. Its interior is decorated with retro furniture, giving it a very homey feel. The menu offers simple and filling daily specials, along with a regular menu including Estonian home-style favourites.

This café/restaurant is one of the newer additions to the area know as Kalamaja. Built into an old railway depot from the 1800s, the extensive renovations have still left a rustic look to the restaurant. The menu has light snacks as well as bigger meals, and focuses on using fresh and local ingredients.

Pikk 30, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2 www.kompott.ee

Telliskivi 57, Tallinn Map Code A1 www.kukeke.ee

New traditions Russian cuisine at a reasonable price without sacrificing style.

russian TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS NEVSKIJ

Nevskij is one of Tallinn’s more traditional restaurants. The St. Petersbourg Hotel restaurant once fell into the category of one of Tallinn’s more expensive restaurants, but that’s changed now.

There is a new menu and the prices are more reasonable. Before, a plate of caviar with blinis would have set you back 205! The food is still gourmet and the design of the restaurant still luxurious. The man behind the new menu is chef

Heimar Kuuskler, who has experience working in some of Tallinn's finest restaurants.

We tried the food at Nevskij on a quiet night. Between three people we shared, a zakuski platter for two (17) and a goat’s cheese salad (9), as well a large plate of pickles with sour cream and honey. As a main course, we ordered the crabmeat patties with tartar sauce, pheasant with mushroom sauce and vanilla mashed potatoes, and the steamed pike perch.

At the beginning of the meal we tasted an amuse bouche of herring. It certainly whets the appetite! The zakuski platter had a little

The interior of Nevskij is stylish and elegant.

bit everything, more herring and pickles, as well as salmon, caviar, mushrooms, pate, and sauerkraut.

The salad was big, with an abundant portion of goat’s cheese. The main courses were well seasoned, well cooked, and well portioned.

The biggest change from the previous restaurant would have to be the price, because the quality hasn’t suffered at all. The main courses we tried were priced between 15-18.

■

Location Restaurant Nevskij, Hotel St. Petersbourg, Rataskaevu 7. Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1 http://www.hotelstpetersbourg.com/ nevskij-restaurant.html

The black sheep Caucasian cuisine in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town.

georgian TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tucked away on the tiny street called Sauna, is the restaurant Must Lammas (or black sheep).

If you want to try Georgian cuisine, then there are many traditional dishes to choose from as appetisers. Most of them are vegetarian dishes, and there is sure to be something for every taste.

At the beginning of the meal,

freshly toasted bread was brought to the table with some garlic flavoured cream cheese. But be careful, this generous serving is easy to fill up on!

Many of the main courses are meat-based, but for a vegetarian main course you can try the stuffed red pepper with cheese sauce.

It also came with some roasted garlic on the side. The portion is filling and costs 9,20.

We tried the khorovats, or lamb cutlets (19,90). The tender pieces of lamb were grilled to

Portions are generous at Must Lammas.

perfection. The portion of 4 chops seemed quite large, yet it was just the right amount (if you didn’t fill up too much on the bread at the beginning of the meal). This dish was certainly good value for

money; the portion was large and could have been enough for two people to share with appetisers.

The house wine is the Grand Noir Cabernet Shiraz, and a bottle costs 21,90.

Every month the Must Lammas restaurant offers a threecourse menu for 9. ■

Location Must Lammas Sauna 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code I2

restaurants

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15

■ Kamahouse

■ Must Puudel

Located a little ways along Kopli in the Kalamaja district, this café is part of a “multi-business environment.” Within the same complex , you will find a law office, art gallery, and studio. The café has a bohemian feel to it, with a mishmash of large office tables and rolling chairs used as seating. The menu has a little bit of everything, from porridge to burgers.

While it might be a bit chilly to enjoy the outdoor courtyard patio, the inside is just as comfy.

This funky café is decorated with Soviet era retro furniture.

Enjoy a light meal, cake and coffee, or a drink or two in the evening. On weekends there is often a DJ.

Müürivahe 20, Tallinn Old Town Map Code I2 Facebook: Kohvik Must Puudel

Kopli 25, Tallinn www.kamahouse.net

“We wanted an alternative to formal dining” Clayhills owner Martin Murray talks about the gastropub and its success in Tallinn.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO KATRIN NÕMKÜLA

Clayhills is the first gastropub to open in the Baltics. While the idea is nothing new in the West, Tallinn has been enjoying good food and good drink in a cosy, relaxed atmosphere since 2010. Martin explains, “I was aware that gastropubs had become very popular in the UK, Ireland and the US, and were spreading across Europe as an alternative to more formal dining. The success of gastropubs, especially in the UK has led such international chefs as Gordon Ramsey to open three of his own in London.”

But what is a gastropub exactly? This type of restaurant boasts good quality food using local ingredients, but you won’t

find anything elaborately stacked or covered in foam. “In the best rules of gastropubs, our menu is written on a giant blackboard and our dishes range from tapas to fish, poultry and steaks, and under the guidance of our executive chef Argo Ots, our menu changes frequently according to the season, though such all-time customers’ favourites as handmade pork and apple sausages and Clayhills gourmet burger are always on the menu.”

The building itself has an interesting history. The name “Clayhills” is that of Thomas Clayhill from Scotland, who's family opened a merchant store here in 1729. In this medieval building many of the original features are preserved, like the ceiling

beams and the stone staircase that leads up to the dining room on the second floor.

But that’s not all. In addition to great food, local and international beer and wine, Clayhills also has live music on the weekends. You can hear anything from Latin to jazz, starting at 22.00 on Fridays and Saturdays. “We have more relaxed music on Thursdays and Sundays while clients eat and drink and on Friday and Saturdays, it begins after dinner, and lasts until the early hours of the morning.” And if you’re a sports fan, you can see all the major events on big screen in the pub. ■

Location Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1. www.clayhills.ee

Choose from a great selection of local and imported beers.

Satisfying the munchies With a drinking culture such as Tallinn's, it's necessary that there should also be a late food culture to match it.

TEXT MARK BENN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

We've all been there; a quick drink has turned into a full evening of drinking, socialising, and dancing. And after a few hours, it's 3am and our stomach is reminding us that we really can't live on beer alone. Thankfully, Tallinn has a number of establishments where we can cure our hunger and make sure we're ready for the day ahead.

Hessburger and McDonalds are a common destination, offe-

ring the well-established burger, fries, and litre of fizzy drink well known around the world. But Tallinn has a number of outlets that should be tried, especially for the more adventurous after drinking eater.

On my first day in Tallinn, Söögiplats, on the corner of Parnu mnt and Estonia pst, was pointed out to me as the place to go after a night out. While this 24-hour kiosk with a wide range of burgers, fries and other fast food staples hasn't tempted me yet, its

large queues show that it's popular with locals and tourists alike.

Just behind Söögiplats, on Tatari, is Loca, A Latin-themed fast food bar which is well noted for it's pizza selection and hookah water pipes! The prices are pretty reasonable and the premises pretty upmarket for somewhere that stays open all night long at the weekends.

If you’re a fan of your Doner Kebab (and who isn't?), then you could do a lot worse than the Istanbul Café. Authentically

Turkish, this place serves some brilliant pitas and can prove the perfect end to a late night out.

But for those happy to escape the city centre in the name of food, then one place stands out.

If you go south to Tatari 64, then you will come to Tommi Grill, an institution in this city. Whether it's burger, kebab, pizza or even just a salad or a soup, Tommi Grill can cook up something that satisfies all your needs, provide you with one last drink, and all at a reasonable price. ■

Location Söögiplats (24h) Tatari 1, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.soogiplats.ee Loca (Su-Th 11-11:30, F-Sa 11-07) Tatari 1, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.loca.ee Istanbul Café (10-24, F-Sa 10-06, Su 12- 24) Estonia pst. 7, Tallinn Map Code B2 Tommi Grill (M-F 10-07, Sa-Su 12-07) Tatari 64, Tallinn Map Code B2 Tommi Grill Metro (Th-Sa 10-02, Su-W 10-24) Viru Väljak 2, Tallinn Map Code B2 http://www.tommigrill.ee

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spa

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HEALING MUD 2013 has been declared the year for wellness tourism in Estonia. centres, sanatoriums, and spa resorts across the country.

“This integration process develops the products and services of wellness tourism, improves the qualifications of spa employees, the service standards of Estonian resorts, and their reputation both at home and abroad,” explains Aire Toffer, manager at the Estonian Spa Association.

“Tourism is very important to us.

TEXT JEVGENIA GORSKI, KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS SPA ESTONIA

Did you know that tourists have been coming to visit Estonian spas for years, especially for the healing mud? The popularity of Estonian spas continues to grow each year, especially among visitors. In fact, about ¾ of spa guests in 2010 were foreigners.

In every Estonian spa hotel you will most likely find saunas, swimming facilities, as well as a long list of spa treatments –basically everything you need for a

relaxing getaway. Since 2008, a classification system for Estonian Medical Spas has been put in place to ensure standardised quality, and indicate the hotel type.

For example some spa hotels offer only relaxation treatments, but some offer medical treatments as well. Medical spa treatment packages can include a doctor's consultation and therapeutic treatments as well.

To increase the competiveness of spa and wellness tourism in Estonia, in 2011 a project was set in motion to integrate wellness

The popularity of Estonian spas continues to grow each year.

We want to understand the needs of our clients and it is therefor important to do our research.”

The Estonian Spa Association is working together with universities and research institutions.

One of their new research focuses is the renewed popularity of mud treatments. The first mud treatment facilities were opened in the 1820s. Local resorts developed quickly, especially Haapsalu and Narva-Jõesuu. “Estonia has always been known for its healing mud,” says Aire Toffer. “It is unique. The Russian Imperial family visited frequently during the 19th century, and tourists from Finland came in the 1930s for the healing mud in Estonia.”

Estonian healing mud treats rheumatism, improves blood circulation, soothes sore muscles, but most importantly it is rela-

xing. Mud treatments were also popular during the Soviet period. In the 1980s, approximately 300,000 tourists visited the resort town of Pärnu, of which 25,000 visited spas.

Three new studies are being conducted this year in Haapsalu: the healing properties of mud, the concentration and consistency of the mud needed for treatments, and individual effects of the mud.

These studies are necessary to better understand healing mud treatments, as well as to back up previous findings. In addition

to spa treatments, products like creams and soap containing the mud are also being developed.

Each spa in Estonia is different.

For example, the sleep clinic at the Kubija Hotel and Nature Spa deals with diagnosing and treating sleep problems. (www.kubija.ee) Starting in 2013, visit www. healthrepublic.ee for a listing of all of the new spa treatments and offers.

For a full listing of spas affiliated with the Estonian Spa Association visit: www.estonianspas.eu ■

person

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It's hard to think of anything more enjoyable than figuring out how to unravel a 60-yearold theatre costume.

What is upcycling?

Upcycling uses waste materials, like used clothing to create new materials or products. According to Reet Aus, within the fashion industry there is a lot of waste with production leftovers, and used materials. Upcycling brings life to items, using them for sustainable design. Visit her website www.reetaus.com to see her designs for fashion, film, and theatre.

Fashion designer, PhD. Reet Aus talks about sustainable fashion design TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS REET AUS FASHION, RENEE ALTROV

How did you first become interested in fashion design?

I became interested in fashion design at quite a young age.

I started sewing my own clothes around the age of 12. Patterns and materials were very interesting to me.

Since 2006 you have been using recycled garments, production leftovers, and other materials in your designs. Where did you first get the idea?

I decided to start using these types of materials because of the negative social impact they were having on the fashion and textile industry environment. There was just no other choice.

What have been some of the challenges in applying this model?

Finding materials has been one of the biggest challenges, as well as working with manufacturers.

This model also has considerably higher production costs, and often, I have very complex cuts to work with. Basically, the initial task for the designer is quite different than with traditional design.

Explaining the importance of

upcycling has proved to be challenging, as well as testing various methods, and their application in the industry.

You recently completed your Ph.D., where in your thesis you talk about applying a similar model to mass fashion production. Can you talk about how you could see this happening in the future?

ces. But at the same time, someone has already used all of the material that I use. Working with old costumes, a surplus of stock, used clothes and similar materials is already in itself very inspired and developmental. It’s hard to think of anything more enjoyable than figuring out how to unravel a 60-year-old theatre costume to transform it into something new.

This is the direction that the fashion and textile industry is moving in, due to the increasing price of raw materials, emerging environmental and waste costs, as well as consumer awareness of the issues and so on. All of the more innovative brands are looking actively to move along this line.

What have been some of the biggest challenges in costume design? You design costumes for both film and theatre, is one more difficult than the other?

All creative work is pure pleasure. The process is always different and because of that it’s hard for me to say which is more difficult.

Film has an end, but the theatre lives on…

When designing costumes for theatre, how do you become inspired, and how do you choose the materials you will work with? I assume that not all fabrics are suitable…

Theatre is a very creative art form.

Its originality lies in the fact that many people are working together towards a common goal. Teamwork. Each new community inspires me in a new way. The choice of materials is always followed by the idea and then the style choi-

How is your new collection coming along?

For the past year I have been working with applying upcycling methods to mass production. Therefor, I have not been working actively on my own collection. At the moment however, I am working on a new collection using a large production method and it will be ready for viewing in the next few months. ■

Reet Aus became interested in fashion design at a young age.

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Tartu

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TARTU –

A city of good thoughts Autumn in Tartu is full of cultural events, for children and adults alike.

FALL EVENTS ■ October

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS TARTU ADVENTURE PARK, A. SOARU, TARTU JAZZ CLUB

Tartu’s history dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 with the establishment of the university. Since then, Tartu has become a student’s city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of Tartu’s most well known landmarks include the Emajõgi River that flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the university’s main building with its distinguished columns, and of course the “kissing students” in the Town Hall Square fountain.

4-7 Oct – Early Music festival “Orient et Occident” This Tartu music festival brings together the connections between Western and Oriental music cultures. Enjoy listening to some of the world’s top performers, rare works, and peculiar instruments.

Lectures, master classes, and youth programmes will also be part of the festival. www.festivitas.ee 17 Oct – 19.00 Elite Concerts I: Sinkova-Lend-Leiten This concert brings together the talents of three Estonian musicians, Oksana Sinkova (flute), Andreas Lend (cello), and Lea Leiten (piano).

University of Tartu Assembly Hall, Ülikooli 18, Tartu.

For the second year in a row this festival brings together Estonian music and 100 years of jazz tradition. A great opportunity to hear the fresh sounds of some of Estonia’s best musicians. Concerts will take place in various venues across the city: Tartu Jazz Club and Vilde Lounge. http://ideejazz.ee 2 Nov – 19.00 All Souls' Day Concert, Estonian National Opera Boys Choir, Conducted

by Hirvo Surva.

Tartu Jaani Church, Jaani 5, Tartu.

1-30 Nov – Tartu Twin Towns’ National Cuisine Days 6th annual food festival where top chefs from Germany, Russia, Sweden, Latvia, Italy, and Greece come to show off and teach their national dishes. www.tartu.ee/cuisinedays

Try one of the 50 different challenges at the Tartu Adventure Park.

taking place in Tartu’s Town Hall Square and Küüni Street. There will be folk dancing, games, traditional Christmas food, and more.

■ November 1-3 Nov IDeeJazz: Tartu Jazz and Rhythm Music Festival 2012, Music with positive charge.

16-28 Nov – Black Nights Film Festival “PÖFF” This film festival combines a main feature film category along with three sub categories: animated films, children’s films, and student films. Films from Estonia as well as abroad will be shown.

A great place to spend a dark November night! www.poff.ee

22 Dec – Vanemuise Symphony Orchestra Advent Concert Christmas songs performed by the Vanemuise Symphony Orchestra, Opera Choir, and the Tartu Youth Choir, conducted by Lauri Sirp.

Tartu Jaani Church, Jaani 5, Tartu

■ December

Vanemuise 6, Vanemuise Grand Building and Concert Hall Vanemuise 45a, Vanemuise Small Building www.vanemuine.ee www.concert.ee/tartu

2-24 Dec – Tartu Christmas City 8 Dec – International Street Dance Festival “Battle of EST” This festival brings world famous break-dancers to Tartu to choose the year’s best. Trick demonstrations, workshops and films about street dance and urban culture will also be part of the program. www.boe.ee 8 Dec – 20.00-00.00 Lõunakeskus The Night of Wonders The year’s biggest event at the Lõunakeskus Shopping Centre.

Deals and discounts and the best prices of the year. Enjoy and ice show as well!

National Cuisine Days promotes food and restaurant culture in Tartu.

15 Dec – 11.00-17.00 Christmas Fair Find great gifts for your friends and family right in the centre of Tartu at this festive Christmas Fair

FALL CONCERTS AT VANEMUINE THEATRE

The Tartu Vanemuine is Estonia’s oldest theatre. It is comprised of three different buildings – the Grand Building, Small Building, and the Harbour Theatre located next to the Emajõgi River.

11 Oct – 19.00 Golden Classics: Novosibirski Symphony Orchestra, conductor Gintaras Rinkevičius (Vanemuise Concert Hall) Jazz performance MOONLIGHT EXPRESS – A concert and dance performance with a new spin on jazz classics. (Vanemuise Grand Building) Performances: 02.10., 07.10., 31.10., 11.11., 23.11., 07.12., 20.12., 27.12.2012

■ What’s new in Tartu?

Swinging through the trees Opened this past June, the Tartu Adventure Park is the latest in outdoor fun. Located in the Raadi district in an old gravel pit, there are 50 different challenges for you to conquer like climbing and zip lining along a 300-metre line. There is even an area set up for small children, with zip lines as well.

Tartu Adventure Park (Tartu Seikluspark) Open M-F 10-20 Narva mnt 126D, Tartu www.tartuseikluspark.ee Fancy a cup of jazz?

That’s exactly what you’ll get at the Tartu Jazz Club. Recently opened in the university’s cafeteria, is the new home of the Jazz Club where you can hear jazz music seven nights a week. Listen to live music Tuesday to Saturday evenings, and during the day the club plays great music as well. The club’s program director is Oleg Pissarenko, who has been active in the jazz community. He released his seventh album this past April called “Kes Sa Oled.”

Tartu Jazz Club Ülikooli 20, Tartu www.tartujazzclub.ee www.facebook.com/tartujazzclub

Concert performance HISPAANIA ÖÖ (Spanish Night) – Love, joy, passion, and music are in the air. (Vanemuise Small Building) Performances: 09.10., 16.11., 01.12.2012 Nov 16 – 19.00 Symphony Concert (Vanemuise Concert Hall)

Tartu

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■ Get outside this winter in Tartu Tartu is the place for winter activities, especially cross-country skiing.

Tähtvere Leisure Park (www.arena. ee) houses concerts during the summer, but in winter there is a 1.3 kilometre ski track, as well as a skating rink set up just in front of the stage of the amphitheatre. The lit tracks are open until 23.00. The Tartu County Recreational Sports Centre (www. tervisesport.ee) is located outside of Tartu near the town of Elva. Suitable for both recreational and competitive athletes, the lit ski trails stay open until 21.00. The Lähte ski trails (www. visittartu.com) are open 24 hours and are free. Enjoy four different trails of 5km, 2.5km, 2km, and 1km. The trails are lit in winter until 21.00. For a bit more of a challenge, Vooremäe Tervisekeskus (www.suusaliit.ee) has a trail of 8.2km and 3km, with varying elevations up to 60 metres.

Nov 30 Premiere “A Night with Strauss” and the Vanemuise Ballet, Symphony Orchestra, and Opera Choir (Vanemuise Small Building) Performances: 06.12., 14.12., 18.12., 19.12.2012.

Dec 2 – 19.00 Golden Classics – Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir, Tallinn Chamber Orchestra, conductor Eri Klas (Vanemuise Concert Hall)

The trails are well marked and lit.

Children will stay entertained with a tobogganing hill.

If you prefer ice-skating, then you must visit the indoor rink inside the Lõunakeskus (http://www.lounakeskus.com/#liuvali), southern Estonia’s largest shopping centre. Open all year round, this rink is suitable for amateurs and professionals alike. Skates are available for rental.

Other outdoor activities to enjoy this winter in Tartu: -

Snowmobile on lakes or trails: http://jaaniussi.ee Kick Sled around Lake Peipus: www.peipsimaa.ee Snowshoe around Lake Peipus: www.peipsimaa.ee Sleigh rides through the forest: www.hot.ee/s/sormuse

Dec 23 – 19.00 Christmas Music.

Estonian National Men’s Choir (Vanemuise Concert Hall) Dec 30 - 19.00 Vanemuise End of Year Ball – This annual event put on by the Vanemuise Theatre and Concert Hall is a great chance to see various Vanemuise artists and performers, as well as guest appearances. Tickets 26, after Dec 1 40.

Listen to live music Tuesday to Saturday evenings at the Tartu Jazz Club.

■ Prefer to stay indoors?

-

Visit the Tartu Science Centre www.ahhaa.ee Learn about astronomy at the Old Observatory www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/observatory Warm up at the Aquapark Aura Centre http://aurakeskus.ee Shop till you drop at the

Getting there:

-

Lõunakeskus, southern Estonia’s largest shopping complex www.lounakeskus.ee If you haven’t had enough of the ice, visit the Ice Age Centre www.jaaaeg.ee

Tartu is about 190km from Tallinn and is accessible by: Bus: www.tpilet.ee Train: www.edel.ee Plane: www.estonian-air.ee, www.flybe. ee, www.tartu-airport.ee For more information about Tartu visit: www.visittartu.com

■

Read articles online at

www.balticguide.ee

entertainment

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Celebrating 107 years of opera in Estonia What to expect of the new season of the Estonian National Opera.

TEXT MARK BENN, PHOTO CONCERT ORGANIZER

There are some new additions this year: these include the appointment of Vello Pähn as artistic director and chief conductor, Marge Mehilane, previously of the Finnish National Opera, as Chief Chorus Master, and Australian Jonathan Henderson as Concert Master of the flute section of the orchestra.

This season also sees a new production of Faust by Charles Gounod. Under the direction of Dimitri Bertman, and with a mystical set designed by NO99's EneLiis Semper, this production is set to be a hit with the public and critics alike. Four performances take place in October on the 18th, 20th, 24th, and 26th with leading Basso Ain Anger taking the part of Mephistopheles.

Wagner's Tannhäuser is also a new addition to Estonian National Opera's repertoire when it

débuts in March, marking 200 years since the composer's birth.

The opera hasn't been performed in full in Tallinn since 1943 and will be staged in March by British stage director Daniel Slater.

Other performances shall continue to be staged throughout the year, with October seeing Mitch Leigh's musical, The Man of La Mancha on the 5th and 17th, Kálmán's operetta, Die Csárdásfürstin, on the 10th and 28th, Verdi's Rigoletto on the 6th and 12th, Handel's Julius Caesar on the 14th and Puccini's Tosca on the 31st.

New productions shall also arrive from The Estonian National Ballet. Marina Kesler's modern interpretation of Sergei Prokofiev's Cinderella, with designs by artists Liisi Eelmaa and Gerly Tinn promising to enthral when it premier's on November 16th. A new performance of Ludwig Minkus's La Bayadère as

Manon

envisioned by Toomas Edur will also be an event when it premiers next May. Until that time, the Estonian National Ballet will be performing Thomas Edur's brilliant modern

ballet Modigliani, which will premiere this year, on the 4th & 13th October; Coppelia on the 6th & 21st, Swan Lake on the 11th & 25th, and Manon on the 19th & 27th. ■

Tickets and information: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia) Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.opera.ee

A night at the theatre Enjoy a new season of theatre at the Estonia.

TEXT MARK BENN, PHOTO BG ARCHIVE

All visitors to Tallinn should try and visit the fantastic Estonia Theatre on Estonia puiestee.

Built in 1913 and rebuilt in the 1940's after bombing destroyed it, this glorious classical building houses both the Tallinn Opera House and Concert Hall.

The Concert Hall is under the direction of Eesti Konsert, who also run the Vanemuine Concert Hall in Tartu and concert halls in Jõhvi, and Pärnu. Eesti Konsert continue to focus on presenting the finest musical talent from home and abroad to the whole country.

In early October Make Our Own Music gives children the joy of making their own sounds.

This family day out takes place in Tallinn (1st), Pärnu (2nd), Jõhvi (8th), and Tartu (9th).

Jaan Rääts, the Estonian composer whose compositions marked a post-modern phase in Estonian music, is celebrated on his 8oth birthday, with performances from the Pärnu City Orchestra in Tallinn and Pärnu on the 4th and 5th of October respectively.

October 16th, the Estonia Concert Hall hosts The Birmingham Symphony Orchestra. Since the 1980's, CBSO has grown into one of the finest orchestras in the world, a reputation that remains under their current Music Director, the young Latvian Andris Nelsons.

Tallinn Concert Hall also plays host to the 2012 Piano Festival.

This event includes performances from international talent such as the young Russian star Miroslav Kultyshev, German pianist and harpsichordist Andreas Staier, and the internationally acclaimed

Estonian jazz pianist Kristjan Randalu. French pianist Cédric Tiberghien opens the festival, performing with Camille SaintSaëns. Listen to the piano concerto no 2 on the 26th of October and the festival closes on the 2nd

Location: Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia kontserdisaal) Estonia pst. 4, Tallinn Map Code B2 Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise kontserdimaja) Vanemuise 6, Tartu

The Estonia Theatre was built in 1913.

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu kontserdimaja) Aida 4, Pärnu

of November with Arvo Volmer conducting leading pianist Ivari Ilja.

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi kontserdimaja) Pargi tn. 40, Jõhvi

Outside of Tallinn, there are a wealth of performances.

For tickets and more information visit www.concert.ee

Jõhvi Concert Hall opens its season on October 12th with a performance by the Novobrisk

Symphony Orchestra. The Estonian National Male Choir will be performing at Karksi Parish Culture Centre on October 25th, Valga Centre of Culture on November 1st and celebrations of the ten year anniversary of the Pärnu Concert Hall will take place on November 30th. ■

what's happening this&that/diverse

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

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Opera and Theatre: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)

Russian Theatre (Vene teater)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee.

Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

Exhibitions & Museums:

Concerts: Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal)

Tallinn City Hall (Tallinna Raekoda)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I/J3

Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda Location: Old Town Map Code H1/2

6.10 16 12.10 19 13.10 19 16.10 19 17.10 19 19.10 19 22.10 19 23.10 19 26.10 19 26.10 19 27.10 16 28.10 16 28.10 19 29.10 19 30.10 15 30.10 19 31.10 19 31.10 16 1.11 1.11

19 16

2.11 6.11

16 16

Hortus Musicus.

20th Century Elite Concerts I: Sinkova- Lend- Leiten City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra Concert Jazz. Oleg Pissarenko Quartet, Estonian National Opera Winter Garden Death and Transfiguration Eesti Film 100.

Music in film concert Camilla Hoitenga & Taavi Kerikmäe Festival PIANO 2012 Opening Concert: Céderic Tiberghien Festival PIANO 2012: Miroslav Kultõšev, (Russia) Festival PIANO 2012: Maxim Shchura Festival PIANO 2012: Vardo Rumessen 70 Festival PIANO 2012: Andreas Staier, (hammer piano, Germany) Festival PIANO 2012: Kristjan Randalu Festival PIANO 2012: Claude Debussy 150 Festival PIANO 2012: Piano duo Silver- Garburg, (Israel) Festival PIANO 2012: Sten Lassmann Festival PIANO 2012: John Cage 100 Festival PIANO 2012: Nelson Freire Festival PIANO 2012: Kristi Kapten and Holger Marjamaa Festival PIANO 2012: Final Concert Monika Evelin liiv, Ralf Taal and Maria Rääk

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus)

St. John Church (Jaani kirik) Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J2

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja) Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee Location: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1 19.10 19 26.10 19 3.11

19

The Beatles 50 Eesti Film 100.

Music in film concert Monika Evelin Liiv, Ralf Taal and Maria Rääk

Niguliste Church (Niguliste kirik) Niguliste 3, www.ekm.ee/niguliste

Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee 6.10 8.10 8.10 12.10 15.10 19.10 26.10 26.10

12 Russian Fairy Tale 12.3 Youth Day Let's Make Our Own Music 10.3 Youth Day Let's Make Our Own Music 19 Golden Classics. Novosibirsk Symphony Orchestra 19 Boris Moiseev 19 Fallen Angles 12 Tuhkatriinu (Cindarella) 19 Kui Harry kohtas Sallyt (When Harry Met Sally)

Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja) Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2

22. 09. 14.00 Engineer’s Men’s Choir Concert 23. 09. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 29. 09. kl. 18.00 Helgmålsmusik / Concert ”Butterfly in my Hand” Chorus Sanctae Ceciliaefrån Helsingfors/Helsingist dirigent Dag-Ulrik Almqvist Musik/Music: Mia Makaroff, Arvo Pärt, Urmas Sisask, John Tavener and Eric Whitacre 30. 09. 12.00 Mikaeldagens högmässa/ Michaelmas Service 03. 10. 18.00 Kvällsmässa/Evening Mass 07. 10. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service Sjunger Råbys kyrkokör/ Roby Church Choir singing 10. 10. 18.00 Kvällsmässa/Evening Mass

9.10 9.10 9.10 10.10 13.10 16.10 23.10 23.10 30.10 2.11

11 Youth Day Let's Make Our Own Music 13 Youth Day Let's Make Our Own Music 15 Youth Day Let's Make Our Own Music 19 Golden Classics. Novosibirsk Symphony Orchestra 19 Metsatöll- "TUSKA" 19 NATURALLY SEVEN 19 Elite Concerts I: SinkovaLend- Leiten 19 Eesti Film 100.

Music in film concert 19 Festival PIANO 2012: Sten Lassmann 19 All Soul's Day Concert

Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik)

Estonia pst. 9, Tallinna, www.tallinnconcerthall.com Location: Old Town Map Code J3 5.10 19 8.10 19 16.10 19 18.10 19 22.10 19 27.10 19

Vesa-Matti Loiri's 50-Anniversary Concert Nigel Kennedy Quintet Concert Boriss Moissejev's Concert "Tants valges" Charity Concert "Elu ja armastus" Mozart Group Show "Frakk-n-roll", (Poland) John Kander and Fred Ebb musical "Cabaret"

9.10 10.10 11.10 12.10

19 19 19 20

13.10 20 16.10 20 17.10 19 18.10 19.3 19.10 22 20.10 21 25.10 19 26.10 21 27.10 20 31.10 21 6.11

19

Terminaator 25th Birthday Singer Vinger/ Propeller Progepühapäev- Beardfish/Slow Electric/ indrek Parre Rival Sons (USA) Lacuna Coil (ITA) The Beatles 50 Metsatöll "Tuska" performance/ Svjata Vatra Rock Cafe 8th Birthday W.A.S.P (USA) The Rasmus (FIN) Swingi Sinatrast- Bulbeni!

Tõnis Mägi and Ultima Thule Rock Hotel 34/ Tri-Tones Steve Vai (USA) Vennaskond 28/ Päratrust 32 Rocktoberfest: Sparzana (SWE), Amatroy (RUS), Üedigree jpt.

Celldweller (USA), Digital Digital, Freakangel jpt.

Katatonia (SWE)/ Alcest (FRA)/ Junius (USA)

Restoran Clazz (Vana turg 2) Location: Old Town Map Code B2

6.10 7.10 8.10 9.10 10.10 11.10 12.10 13.10 14.10 15.10 16.10 17.10 18.10 19.10 20.10 21.10 22.10 23.10 24.10 25.10 26.10 27.10 28.10 29.10 30.10

Blues Night, Tanel Padar & Band, DJ Hannes Kalamäe Saturday Night Soul, Guests, DJ Quest & Sander Mölder Blue Notes, Maria Väli Congo Square, Swing Club Brazilian Night, Denise Fontoura Band The Old New Thing, Watch Out Jazz With Me, DJ Alexanderw/ Kadri Kasak & Keio Vutt It's About You, Marvi Quintet, DJ Kashu Ain't It Funky?, Marilin Kongo & InGeneral, DJ Micky Smalls Blue Notes, Laura Junson & Erko Niit Blue Monday Blues, Alar Kriisa Blues band Brazilian Night, Denise Fontoura Band The Old New Thing, Watch Out Jazz With Me, DJ Alexander w/ Rebecca Kontus & Tanel Kuusk It's About You, Uku Suviste & Marjamaa Brothers, DJ Koldun Blues Night, Nevil BlumbergBluesaurus, DJ Erin Antov Blue Notes, Jana Abzalon & Merje Kägu Tribute Night, Tribute to Gretchen Parlato Brazilian Night, Denise Fontoura Band The Old New Thing, Tape That Jazz With Me, Tallinn Fashion Week Afterparty, DJ Hannes Kalamäe It's About You, Funkifize, DJ Sander Mölder Call The Doctor, Rhythm Doctor w/ Mairo Marjamaa & Hele- Riin Uib Blues Notes, Janeli Truus Jam Session, Brazilian Night, Denise Fontoura Band The Old new Thing, Watch Out

Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1

31.10

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF)

Pärnu mnt. 19, Tallinn, www.guitarhunt.ee

www.plmf.ee: 9.10

19

19.10 19

Nokia-konserttisali (Solarise Keskuses)

21 21 17

5.10

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja)

Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I1

14. 10. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 17. 10. 18.00 Kvällsmässa/Evening Mass 21. 10. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 24. 10. kl. 18.00 Kvällsmässa/Evening Mass 28. 10. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 09. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 16. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service 22. 09. kl. 14.00 Engineer’s Men’s Choir Concert 23. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service 29. 09. kl. 18.00 Finnish Choir Concert 30. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service

5.10 6.10 7.10

31.10 18

"Masters Academy", Geraldine Casanova (soprano), Pille paemurru (piano), Tallinn Town Hall "Hingemuusika", Pille Lill (soprano), Ralf Taal (piano), Koigi Manor "Hingemuusika", Oksana Sinkova (flute), Sindi's Music School

Corelli Music Tallinna Teletorni 21. korrusel (Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn) www.corelli.ee 16.10 20 Season 2012/2013 opening concert 13.11 20 Father's Day Concert 4.12 20 Advent Concert

Rock Cafe Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee Map Code C3

Guitar Hunt Every tuesday Salsa night Every wednesday Beerpong

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April Wed 11am– 8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Opening Hours: January–April Wed 10–20, Thu– Sun 10–17. May–June Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012 Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39 Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss) Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00.

Location: Map Code A5 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66 Opening Hours: 11 -16

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1 Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

Adamson-Erics Museum (Adamson Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38.

Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30.

Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4 Opening Hours: January–June Wed 10–20, ThuSun 10–17. July–December Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4 Location: Map Code A4

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83 Location: Old Town Map Code G3 Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00 Location: Old Town Map Code 1G Opening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08.

Location: Old Town Map Code D3 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00 Location: Map Code A2 Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18 Permanent exhibitions: Greater-Tallinn, Art Nouveau, Wooden Architecture, Functionalism, Power and the Square, Contemporary Architecture.

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77 Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18

LO70)' Ş $#R

TALLINN

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie (Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Festivals: (http://www.festivals.ee/?s=1) 27.10- 2.11 International piano players festival KLAVER, www.concert.ee/Klaver 1.- 3.11 IDeeJazz, www.ideejazz.ee 8.- 10.11 Maailmatrumm, www.filharmoonia.ee

New!

In Tallinn’s city centre, next to the Foorum and Viru shopping centres, is a new addition to the lounge/ restaurant scene. Lounge Tallinn is set over two levels. On Friday and Saturday nights enjoy two for one

mixed drinks as part of their “Before Party” promotion from 18.00-23.00.

Lunch and dinner are served daily.

Location Lounge Tallinn , Narva mnt 2. Tallinn Map Code B2. www.loungetallinn.ee

22 22

traffic www in estonia traffic

TALLINN

Tartu

T HT EHT EHBEBAABLLATTLI ITCCI CG U U IUI DDI EDEE™™™DO G O E CC TET O M O BB EE RR 2 0 11 212

Ferry Schedule Tallinn–Stockholm

Tallinn–St. Petersburg

Tallink departs everyday at 18.00

St. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

Helsinki–Tallinn

Таllinn-Helsinki

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–11.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

08.00–10.40

Viking XPRS

09.00–12.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

10.30–13.30

Nordlandia (Su)

13.00–16.30

Baltic Princess

11.30–14.00

Viking XPRS

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

15.00–16.30

Lindaline

(We–M)

16.00–19.15

Nordlandia (Su)

14.00–15.30

Lindaline

16.30–19.00

Viking XPRS (Su)

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

16.30–20.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.30–22.00

Baltic Princess

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

17.30–20.45

Nordlandia (Sa)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.00–20.30

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

20.00–22.30

Viking XPRS (Su)

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

20.15–23.30

Nordlandia (Su)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F, Su)

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F, Su)

21.00–00.15

Nordlandia (M–F)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.30–00.00

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

00.30–06.40

Nordlandia (M)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

01.00–06.40

Nordlandia (Tu–F)

01.00–07.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

Temptrans AS Ticket Counters Viru 6, Tallinn, tel. +372 6 480 777, open M-F 10–18, lunch 13–13.30. Nurga 1, Maardu, tel. +372 6 006 133, open M-F 8–19, lunch 13–14, Su open 10–15 Bus Station, Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, open M-Su 6.30–21 E-mail: temptrans@ temptrans.ee, www.temptrans. ee. Buses to Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus.

(We–M)

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

Ecolines

Useful Information No international driver’s license required.

It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0.

■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Office Tartu mnt 68, Tallinn, tel +372 6 062 217, e-mail: ecolines@ecolines.ee. Open M-F 9–18. Bus Station Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, tel. +372 56 377 997, e-mail: ecolines.kassa@ecolines. ee. Open M-F 6.30–21. Buses to Europe and Russia, as well as many other destinations.

Copterline www.fast-class.com Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus Station Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Lastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21 Tel. +372 12 550 (Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

USEFUL VOCABULARY

Tallinn Train Station

The car has broken down . .

The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . .

There is a block in the road .

Where is the car repair?. . . .

.. .. .. .. ..

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.. .. .. .. ..

. . . . .

.. .. .. .. ..

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.. .. .. .. ..

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

Parking in Tallinn ■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.

ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission.

Live animals and plants as well as rare animal and plant species and so forth, also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are prohibited.

See also http://www.emta.ee/ index.php?id=1089 Customs Information Tel. +358 20 690 600

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock.

The 15 minute free parking does not apply in parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour and minute of purchase.

Shopping malls are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410.

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Toompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö Line Bookings +358 6 000 4300 (1.64 €/received call+local call cost).

Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000 Nordlandia Tallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Linda Line Bookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970, (1.64 €/received call+local call cost).

Tallinn Tel. 16100. www.lindaliini.ee Merilin & Karolin Tallinn: Linnahall Port Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

Tallink

Parking Fees ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

Bookings everyday from 07–22, Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn info and bookings Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also available in travel agencies.

Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, Superstar Tallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

■ Airport and Port Transit Getting to the Port The distance between the Viru Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port.

It passes by the airport. The Mõigu Bus Line passes through the port. For more information and timetables http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.

Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Free Bus from the Port

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city.

The bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free bus that passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www. prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Centre and the airport is 4 km.

The no. 2 bus goes to the airport.

The exact schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

■ Tallinn Taxis ■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher.

■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The

cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a GFIK&?89FLI receipt then the passenger is not KiX`e JkXk`fe obliged to pay. If you feel that the I8EE8Dv< price was unreasonable then make 8?KI@ M@IL K<< E8IM8 DEK% note of the car registration number, FC; JHL8I< date of journey and the name of M`il _fk\cc KFNE the taxi company. <JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ GJK% C@@M8C8@8 GvIEL DEK%

K8IKL DEK% AL?B<EK8C@

■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee.

Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel. +358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966 Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki Katajanokka

Finnair www.finnair.ee. Tallinn +372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309 Helsinki–Vantaa Airport +358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/ received call+local call cost)

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 2

23

first aid…esmaabi

www.visitestonia.com

T

Tartu

V ■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

School Breaks 17–25.3. Spring Break 6.6.–31.8. Summer Break 22.–30.10. Autumn Break 23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia With a mobile phone from Estonia to outside the country: + (country code)(phone number) When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the phone number. For example +372 6 666 666.

When calling within Estonia the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8, Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136 wireless networks listed.

In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are marked in green, meaning that they can be used free of charge.

The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network.

Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and residents free connections. These can be found on the website listed above.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Estonian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations.

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian, English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

■ Currency Exchange

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21 Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20

?

24 24

TALLINN TALLINN

Tallinn and Estonia

Tartu Tartu

T HT EHT EHBEBAABLLATTLI ITCCI CG U U IUI DDI EDEE™™™DO G O E CC TET O M O BB EE RR 2 0 11 212

Tallinn Sightseeing Foto: Andrei Chertkov

ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: about 1,350,000.

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.

Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian.

Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda).

Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn, tel. +372 57 503 650 E-mail: info@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee Open everyday May - September 10–19, Open October - April W - M 10–18, Closed Tuesday. The restaurant is open everyday May - September 10–23, October - April 11–23.

■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak).

This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top.

This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the

Tallinn TV Tower IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

Cafe Amigo

Open: Thu–Su Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2 www.amigo.ee

Arena 3

Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2 www.arena3.ee

Bonbon

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn B2 www.bonbon.ee

Butterfly Lounge

Closed Sundays Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3 www.kokteilibaar.ee

Cathouse

Open: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

Cellar

Open: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von Überblingen

Open: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinn www.uberclub.ee

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Tallinn Museums ■ History Museums Bastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud).

Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town.

Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower.

Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum).

Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4.

Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room.

Estonian History Museum – Maarjamäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56.

Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum).

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens.

4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Privé

Open: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2 www.clubprive.ee

Protest

Mere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2 www.protest.ee

Rock Café

Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4 www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi Klubi

Open: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4 www.sossi.ee

Teater

Open: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

Vabank

Open: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1 www.vabank.ee

Venus

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2 www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl Baar

Inferno

Open: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3 www.amneziaclub.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants

Korter

The following establishments show football as well as other sports.

Panoraam

Clayhills, Pikk 13.

Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325.

Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63.

Mad Murphy's, Mündi 2.

Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4.

The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19.

Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubpanoraam.ee

Parlament

Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubparlament.ee

Partei

Open: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinn www.parteiklubi.ee

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum).

Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2.

Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases modern photography exhibits.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

■ Other Museums

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teaduskeskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. The wonders of energy and physics.

AHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA teaduskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem).

Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1.

Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1.

A museum about the world of pup-

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation.

The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1 www.vonkrahl.ee

Roseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam).

Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

z A Brief History of Estonia

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

Hollywood

Closed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

Tallinn Nightlife

KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park.

From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum).

Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art Museums Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum).

A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4.

Located next to Mikkeli Museum, displaying foreign art.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1.

Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display.

Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1.

Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia.

11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed.

1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia.

1343 St. George’s Night uprising.

Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success.

1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order.

1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).

1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.

1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000.

1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.

1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860).

In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility.

1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government.

1918 Germany occupies Estonia.

The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24.

Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces.

1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed.

1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament.

Päts rules by decree.

1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation.

1939 The German-Soviet NonAggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia.

1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union.

1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.

1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia.

Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight.

1948–25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000.

1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian.

1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa.

1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988.

1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow.

2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

City of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu.

Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

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Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13â&#x201A;Ź. www.citytour.ee

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Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

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AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K This is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2â&#x201A;Ź. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

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