The Baltic Guide ENG September 2014

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 14

Shopping Guide Manor House Tour Wine and Dine – New Restaurants in Tallinn Exhibits and Events

Autumn in Estonia Tips from locals – where to eat, drink, shop, and be entertained!

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what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

The Changing of the Seasons

W

hat a summer it has been! The weather seemed doubtful a few months back, when it snowed one day in June. Midsummer passed with the same rainy and cold weather one comes to expect year after year. Then it all changed. As we approached the Song Festival weekend, the weather turned for the better. The sun came out, the temperature rose about ten degrees and the Song Festival finished with a very sunburnt Estonian population walking back from the Song Festival Grounds. Then the summer weather continued: beautiful days followed by more beautiful days, followed by, you guessed it, more beautiful days. One might say that Estonians only seem to talk about the weather, but if you live in a country that is dark and cold most of the year, beautiful summer weather is something of a big deal. But, as I write this the days are quickly getting shorter and the weather, just a little colder. The hoards of tourists are starting to come in smaller numbers and the patios and terraces are closing one by one.

September is a time for reflection and for new beginnings; the end of the summer, and the start of a new a new school year. It’s harvest time. The annual autumn festivals are beginning. This is one of the better times to visit Estonia, for just these reasons mentioned above. Flip through the pages of this month’s issue for a guide to everything that is going on this month in Tallinn, and throughout the country. We also have a guide to manor houses in Estonia. What better way to spend a weekend than at one of Estonia’s restored manor houses, many of which have great restaurants too. Turn to our nightlife page for all the details for a great evening out. And look at our restaurant page for all the latest details about Tallinn’s new restaurants.

Contents 3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

restaurants

Happy travels!

8 restaurants: Kohvik Troika Fahle V - Vegan Self Frank Tokumaru

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

Photo: Design Night Festival

September Highlights 01 DESIGN NIGHT The annual Design Night Festival brings top design to Tallinn from 25-28 September. The programme includes exhibits, workshops, new products, and fashion shows. The festival takes place throughout Tallinn.

shopping

02 ARVO PÄRT’S SEPTEMBER The inspiring music of Arvo Pärt can be heard at the Arvo Pärt festival from 2-11 September. The festival concludes with the composer’s birthday concert at Jaani Church.

03 A MARATHON FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY The Tallinn marathon is an event for the whole family. The programme includes a half marathon (21.1 km), a 10 km run, Nordic walking or walking race on 14 September. Children can take part in the children’s race in Freedom Square on 13 September.

10 entertainment 12-13 shopping 14 outside of Tallinn 15 beauty 16-17 september events 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information

04 SAAREMAA’S OWN RALLY

The Euro Cup qualifiers begin in Tallinn on 8 September when Estonia takes on Slovenia. The season continues to heat up on 12 September when Estonia plays England. Tickets are available from Piletilevi.

Pick up your free copy at:

SEPTEMBER 2014

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Maarja-Liisa Mahla Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Annika Aavik tel +372 58 502 480

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Evelin Lembinen Style: Ženja Fokin Clothes: Eesti Käsitöö, KuldanLuxury, Reserved, Tallinna Kaubamaja (Michael Kors) Makeup: Kristi Petolai

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05 TOP FOOTBALL IN TALLINN

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The rally takes place on the gravel roads, between the juniper trees on Saaremaa from 10-11 October. The start and finish take place in Kuressaare, the island’s capital.

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN at 175 metres high, is northern Europe’s highest restaurant! It offers magnificent views as far as Helsinki.

Book a table: +372 581 50020

LIVE MUSIC every Friday and Saturday

How to get here By bus: 34a, 38 Viru Keskus – Teletorn City Sightseeing Tallinn, green line Mere pst – Teletorn

Takso24 +372 640 8927

Open daily:

10 - 23

Globally recognised brands in the heart of the city! Kaubamaja – the most legendary store and the most loved department store in Estonia.

Get a 10% discount Request the special tourist´s coupon from the Client Service Desk.

Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn Tel +372 5815 0020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee/restoran

FRESHEST SALAD, PASTA AND PIZZA IN TOWN! VAPIANO FOORUM Hobujaama 10, Tallinn. Near the harbour. VAPIANO SOLARIS Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Open Sun-Thu 11-23, Fri-Sat 11-24 VAPIANO EESTI FREE WIFI WWW.VAPIANO.EE

VAPIANO HELSINKI Mikonkatu 15, Helsinki Open Mon-Thu 11-23, Fri 11-01, Sat 12-01, Sun 12-23 VAPIANO HELSINKI FREE WIFI WWW.VAPIANO.FI Kaubamaja Tallinn Gonsiori St. 2, Open: Mon-Sun 9-21 Kaubamaja Tartu Riia St. 1, Open: Mon-Sat 9-21, Sun 10-19

PASTA & PIZZA from

5,50€

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

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Photo: T. Tuul

Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1.

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

Kiek in de kök

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guide by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use to Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget the swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www. tallinncard.ee

sightseeing

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

Outside of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Kadriorg

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2013/2014 School Holidays Christmas break 21 December, 2013 5 January, 2014 Spring break 15-23 March, 2014 Summer break 6 June - 31 August, 2014

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

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Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels‌ Always up to 500g

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

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Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location: Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town

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RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

MAD MURPHY ’S

Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill FĂśrsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjĂśvägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The ďŹ rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. KÜket Üppet frün kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vün/1st oor, 100m frün A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

• Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) Mßndi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

www.madmurphys.ee

8 RESTAURANTS NEWS

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

Lunch or Dinner? Fahle is perfect for any occasion, any time of day. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Self Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2 This is Tallinn’s first gin bar and tapas restaurant combination. It’s a great place to come for an aperitif and some light snacks, or try something more filling. Chef Angel Alonso is from the south of Spain, so you can expect good seafood. We have yet to try it, but have heard nothing but good things so far.

Frank Sauna 2, Tallinn Old Town I2 At long last, a bistro in Tallinn, or is it? Frank’s extensive and interesting cocktail menu makes this place a good destination for a drink or two, once the evenings get cooler. The food menu offers a full English breakfast, available all day long, as well as a great selection of burgers and sandwiches. We tried the steak with green peppercorn sauce. Be sure to specify how you would like it cooked; otherwise you will get it quite well-done. As a side, you can’t go wrong with the steamed spinach with garlic.

T

he restaurant takes its name from the old factory building in which it is located. The Fahle name comes from Emil Fahle, a German born man who arrived in Tallinn at the age of 20 with only five roubles in his pocket, or so the story goes. He was a smart and confident person who became the director and principle shareholder of the Fahle paper mill, thus becoming one of Tallinn’s most known and influential businessmen. Fahle Restaurant & Café has had great success because if its multifaceted service approach. At lunch, the café is full of locals enjoying a meal at their lunch breaks. Fahle offers a short daily menu in addition to their regular menu. The daily menu usually includes a soup, and main dish. Service is excellent at Fahle. During the busy lunch period, drinks and food were served very

quickly. The servers are friendly and knowledgeable, and treated everyone as a regular. Bread and butter, along with oil and vinegar are available from the side table, to which you help yourself at lunch. For lunch, I decided to try the goat’s cheese salad. It was served with pine nuts, melon, and strawberries. The sweet and salty combination of the fruit and cheese was a match made in heaven. If you are going for dinner and have a little bit more time for a longer meal, be sure to try the beef tartar, made with Estonian beef. Then have the duck breast as a main, which comes served with a wild cherry sauce. Fahle is also available for bookings for large groups, where you can organise dinners and meetings. There is also a cigar room. ■

Location Fahle Restaurant & Café Tartu mnt. 84A, Tallinn

Casual Russian Dining Everyone’s favourite Russian restaurant now has a café.

Tokumaru Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn (Solaris 2nd floor) B2 Brought to you by the guys behind Momo, a Japanese food store offering daily lunch specials (J. Kunderi 29, Tallinn), Tokumaru is Tallinn’s latest Japanese restaurant. Tokumaru specialises in ramen, but there is also a good selection of sushi to be had. The interior is modern, and if you can take your focus away from the large open kitchen, a wall of windows offers a nice view.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

T

V – Vegan Restoran Rataskaevu 12, Tallinn Old Town H1 Vegetarians and vegans need not fear having to eat only potatoes while visiting Tallinn. V is Tallinn’s first vegan restaurant, offering as range of raw and cooked veggie dishes. There is also a good range of gluten-free dishes. On our visit, we tried the mint and pea puréed soup as a starter, which was then followed by a properly spicy tofu and veggie dish.

Marelle, head chef at Fahle

Chicken Tabaka

Location Kohvik Troika Mere pst. 5, Tallinn B2

roika has been an institution in Tallinn for Russian cuisine. Those who have been, have certainly enjoyed the show that goes along with the pouring of the vodka, and the traditional Russian dancing. Troika’s café, located just outside of Tallinn’s Old Town is also worth a visit for a more casual dining experience. And while the weather stays warm, the large patio is a great palce to people watch. Kohvik Troika has the same warm service you would expect from their Old Town location. The menu is more extensive than you would expect from a café. There is a great selection of soups and appetisers to start, including a salad bar option. Kohvik Troika is also good for dinner, which is when we visited. You can choose from a selection of dishes –from dumplings to pierogies, pancakes to classic Russian dishes. In other words, it’s

good to come with a few friends so you can try a little bit of everything. On our visit we started with the salted pickles that came served with sour cream and honey. Have a shot of vodka with these to whet the appetite. We tried the pancakes with caviar and sour cream, as well as the pancakes with mushroom sauce. The presentation was unexpected. The pancakes with mushroom sauce came packaged in little bundles and the pancakes with caviar were served as cones that presented each of the elements of the dish. Be sure to save room for the dumplings. Kohvik Troika has many different types of dumplings, including even bear meat dumplings. The dumplings come served in a broth with a selection of sauces on the side. Main dishes include the Emperor’s Salmon, Chicken Kiev, and a Filet a la Stroganoff, among others. Prices are reasonable, with main dishes all costing below 13. ■

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10

entertainment

Klaus Kohvik

The Estonian band, Odd Hugo, live at Kanala.

The Last Nights of Summer O

ne thing you’ve got to remember when planning a night out in Tallinn is to plan according to your budget. Get drinks for you and your friends at the cheaper bars, and the more expensive places begin to seem like better value. There are plenty of nice bars that won’t chew up your salary but are a nice change from the Old Town norm. You can find fun at night in a whole host of places, in a short walk from the Kala Sadam to the Rotermann Quarter. Kanala Kalasadama 6, Tallinn A2.

Starting at the tip of the Cultural Kilometre, Kanala is a fine outdoor bar, set up in a former workshop space next to Kultuurikatel, which is going to be a fascinating cultural incubator. For now, though, we have the more down to earth thrills of

Kanala, where anything can happen. There have been guest DJs, theatrical performances in the adjoining Kultuurikatla Aed, pizza workshops, and baked potatoes to help line the stomach late at night. I was in a hot tub here at 5am at the beginning of the summer, in an example of a very Estonian pleasure.

Klaus Kohvik After the summer season passes and Kanala winds down, Kohvik Klaus is a classy place to pass the late evening, and although the service leaves little to be desired, book in advance and you can sample some fine wines and excellently prepared salads, overlooking one of Tallinn’s finest views, the northern coast. The sofas are comfortable; the fulllength windows allow you to keep warm while viewing the impressive landscape.

ing, with a smoking area and garden outside, hosts parties all year round, and is the perfect place for checking out hipster trends while enjoying some brilliantly-curated music, which, depending on the night in question, might be old-school ’80s rap, modern-day industrial music, or anything in between. The space is often hired by companies or groups for special parties, and although it can be closed depending on the day, you can be sure of a great party. Take cash, as though the drinks are cheap, they have no card machine.

Kultuurikatel

Protest

Põhja Pst 27a, Tallinn A2.

Mere Pst 6a, Tallinn A-B2.

Next to Kanala is another nightclub set in an old industrial building. This small build-

Walking into the Rotermann Quarter, those converted mills now housing trendy offices

Kalasadama 8, Tallinn A2.

Enjoy the last days of summer at Kultuurikatla Aed.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

11

Free drink by presenting this ad.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Sports Clayhills

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Gay

Drink Baar

X-baar

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Tatari 1, Tallinn.

Hell Hunt

Karaoke

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Cigar Lounges Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sigari Maja Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Gelsomino Karaoke Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Nightclubs The Bank Club 777 Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3.

Bibabo Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1.

CatHouse Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.

Club Hollywood

Estonian

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Karja Kelder

Club Münt

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kochi Ait Tavern

Club Privé

Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Kolmas Draakon

Club Studio

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Valli Baar

Panoraam

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live Music

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Parlament Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Café Amigo

Tapper

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.

Chicago 1933

Teater

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Clazz

Vabank

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

NYC Piano Bar

Venus

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

and swanky shops and restaurants, you might usually make a beeline straight for one of the brightly-lit cocktail bars. On this occasion, don’t. You want your money to last all night? Go to Protest. One of Tallinn’s liveliest bars, it’s been running, in pretty much the same shape, for the entire three years I have been in Tallinn. Customers know what they will get when they come here - locals know to come here because it stays open all night and sells beer and spirits at a reasonable price. It also stays open late at weekends. Get your drinks rounds done here - it’s cheaper than Hetk, where you’ll go next, and Protest is a fine place for drinking and conversation to come together. Protest has comfy sofas, but it can also get very crowded at weekends, so make sure you have sharp elbows on the way to the bar. Also, if you’re a tourist, be aware this is an unvarnished experience - this is a drinkers’ bar, where the conversation is good and the music not too loud, but you have to be respectful of local traditions and customs when chatting to your mates. If you do that, you’ll make friends and have a fine time - just like I did when I came to the bar as a holidaymaker four years ago.

Hetk Roseni 9, Tallinn B2

The on-pointest of the on-point, Hetk opened last year with a new look, the

building having previously played host to a hard-to-love dive bar. The difference could not be bigger with what we have today. Hetk is a comfy bar with big sofas on the lower floor, exceptionally good barfood, and an upper floor that is even more favourable for chatting, the bench seating encouraging groups to get together. The bar, right from the start, sold itself on the way it chose the best local DJs. This is still true these days, and although you may have to pay up to 10 on a day when a big name is behind the decks, it’s well worth it when you get inside. It may attract Tallinn’s hipster population, but it’s a place for everyone. The only drawback is that the drinks - including a vast selection of imported beers - are expensive, but people come here to dance, and as it can be so hard to make yourself heard in the echoey shell of a building, that’s what you should do - maybe in the bar’s vast outdoor area on a warm evening. ■

✎ Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

“We were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table! We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotel…” Jane, 36; London

Radisson BLU Hotel Olümpia Liivalaia 33, Tallinn, Estonia Personal ID required. Minimum age limit 21 years. Open 24h.

Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, Old Town, Tallinn info@beergarden.ee Ph.: +372 688 0013; Mob.:+372 565 2004 Fri - Sat 10.00-05.00, Sun - Thur 10.00-00.00 www.olympic-casino.com | www.facebook.com/OlympicCasinoEstonia

12

shop

Pärnu’s biggest shopping centre, now renovated TEXT AND PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA

Kaubamajakas, Pärnu’s largest shopping centre, opened a new part in June. The renovations took about six months, and added a second floor with about 2000 m2 of extra space. The second floor has a new food court with five places to

eat, including BabyBack Ribs & BBQ. This family restaurant has an excellent children’s playroom. The food court also includes Da Vinci Pizza & Pasta, Chopsticks, Silk Sushi, and Peccadello Café. ■

Location

Shopping

Kaubamajakas, Papiniidu 8, Pärnu.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn doesn’t have a main shopping street like other capitals, but its many shopping malls, located throughout the city are convenient and easy to get to. Rocca al Mare, for example, located in the suburb with the same name has a free bus that leaves regularly from the A and D terminals at the port, stopping at Kristiine Shopping Centre as well.

A shopping centre with a view TEXT MIKKO VIRTA

The Astri Centre has now expanded and changed into a multifaceted entertainment centre. The original centre was demolished and in its place, a three-storey, 19,000 m2 shopping centre was built. There are over 50 stores in the new Astri Centre, including Lindex, Seppälä, New Yorker, Monton, and Rahva

Raamat. H&M will open its first location in eastern Estonia in the fall. Astri is also Estonia’s only shopping centre with a lookout tower. Located at the eastern end of the mall, the tower stands 30 m tall and overlooks Narva. ■

Location Astri Keskus, Tallinna mnt. 41, Narva.

Modern style at Stockmann.

pping

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■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Shop, dine, and go to the cinema at Solaris.

in Tallinn

Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Tallinn’s two department stores, the Estonian company Kaubamaja and the Finnish company Stockmann are both located in Tallinn’s city centre. Kaubamaja connects to Tallinn’s most central shopping centre, Viru Keskus. Solaris is one of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres and is located across from the Estonia Theatre. The Nordea Concert Hall (formerly Nokia) is attached to the back of Solaris.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

■ A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Summer fashion at Kaubamaja.

Rotermann Quarter is a grouping of old industrial buildings that have been renovated, with a few new buildings mixed in, and now stand in one of the most stylish areas of Tallinn. The area is filled with hip restaurants, trendy fashion shops, and more! When in Tallinn be sure to visit the Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi 60A). The Telliskivi Loomelinnak is located in the bohemian area of Kalamaja. This creative

space has grown so much over the last two years, and it just keeps getting better. Don’t forget about Tallinn’s Old Town. It’s not all souvenir shops and restaurants. Top name designer brands, including Estonian designers can be found throughout. For shopping centre locations and details, please see the listing of shopping centres and markets beside this article. ■

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25.

14

outside of Tallinn

Saku Manor

Road trip Here is a short list of some of the restored manor houses in Estonia worth visiting, with some, only a short drive from Tallinn. ■ Purtse Castle Purtse Village, Lüganuse Parish, Ida-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 140 km Est. 1533 - Seasonal café ■ Kau Manor Triigi Village, Kose Parish Distance from Tallinn: 50 km Est. 1241 - Kaheksa Jalg Restaurant (among Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants) - Accommodation available ■ Eivere Manor Paide Parish, Järvamaa Distance from Tallinn: 80 km Est. 1552 - Restaurant – pre-bookings only - Accommodation available ■ Vihula Mõis Vihula, Lääne-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 94 km Est. 1501 - La Boheme Restaurant (among Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants) - Accommodation available - Spa facilities ■ Sagadi Manor Vihula, Lääne-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 88 km Est. 1753 - Restaurant - Accommodation available - Museum ■ Saku mõis. Juubelitammede tee 4, Saku, Harjumaa Distance from Tallinn: 18 km Est. 1820 - Pub - Accomodation available ■ Kursi Jahiloss Kursi, Puurmanni Parish Distance from Tallinn: 152 km Est. 1888 - Restaurant - Accommodation available ■ Sangaste Castle Lossiküla, Sangaste Parish, Valgamaa Distance from Tallinn: 243 km Est. 1272 - Restaurant - Accommodation available ■ Kohala Manor Kohala Village, Sõmeru Parish, Lääne-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 110 km Est. 1489 - Accommodation - Horseback riding

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Eivere Manor

Kõue Manor

Estonian Manor Houses TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS

Most of the Baltic German owned manor houses are located in Estonia. Together, there are 1245. If you add church manors and manor dairy farms, then that number rises over two thousand. About one third of these manor houses have been preserved. The history of Estonian manor houses dates back to the thirteenth century, when the crusaders reached the coast of the Baltic Sea. The first 500 manor houses were built while churches were being built at the end of the Middle Ages. Of these, about 100 were suitable as stone forts, but were later destroyed during the war in the 16th century. Construction of the mighty estates began at the end of the 18th century and continued for about 150 years. The architectural style of the manor houses is comprised of baroque, classicism, and jugend. The manors were assigned to noblemen, who ruled almost the entire land, and one of their best sources of income was the sale of vodka to the Russian army. The heyday of the manors lasted until the beginning

Vihula Manor

of the First World War. The first attack on the manors was in 1905 when sailors and workmen rebelled and destroyed about 150 manors. Estonian independence in 1918 and the land reform of 1919 saw the end of the manor rule, and their owners were left with more than a few hectares of land and the main houses. Some of the manors were turned into parish houses, schools, and kindergartens. Together, 60 of the profit yielding land was

Sagadi Manor

transferred throughout the country, including, for example, 225 vodka factories. The link to the historical owners was broken in 1939, when Germany called the manor lords and their families closer to Poland. During the Soviet period, many of the manors were divided into apartments, while at the beginning of the

1960s, renovation of the manor houses began again. When Estonia regained independence, the ownership of many of the manors changed hands once again. Together, 414 manors have been restored to their original glory. Of those, about 100 are in peak condition and are being used as private homes, schools, parish houses, museums, accommodation, and restaurants. ■

Saka

Tallinn

Saku

Sagadi

Rakvere

Kõue

Kärdla

Vihula

Narva Kohala

Purtse

Eivere Haapsalu

Paide Kursi Pärnu

Viljandi

Tartu

Kuressaare Sangaste Valga Illustration: Eve Jaansoo

Võru

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

15 Stop for a massage while shopping.

A moment of relaxation in the heart of the city Tool ja Tee massage centre is not your average massage centre. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Located on the fourth floor of the Viru Keskus, the manager of Tool ja Tee, Kaja Heinsalu, got the idea for the massage centre from Asia. “There are people that have become used to going for a foot massage while shopping”. Elve has worked as a masseuse for four and a half years. She says

that there are about 95 visually impaired masseurs in Estonia. Tool ja Tee is the only massage parlour where you can be massaged by a blind person. Tool ja Tee’s most popular massage is the relaxing foot massage, which is perfect to enjoy while shopping. The half hour procedure massages every toe and muscle. “Feet reflect the person. There are

many sensitive areas in the foot”, explains Elve. After the summer, weary feet are warm and soft. During your foot massage, you are offered herbal tea, which just goes so well with the massage. The half body massage goes from the buttocks to the neck. Elve’s technique is professional and strong. After working behind

a desk all day long, a massage leaves you feeling nice and relaxed. Elve’s hands will also massage your neck, back, and hands. After any massage you will feel warm and calm. Tool ja Tee gets bonus points for their tranquil atmosphere. You almost forget that you are in Tallinn’s city centre in a large shopping mall. ■

Location Tool Ja Tee Viru Keskus 4th floor Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 Open daily 9.00-21.00

Against Ageing See results with the new Exilis procedure, even after just one visit. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS MIKKO SAVIKKO, FREYA ESTETICA

Freya Estetica beauty salon is located in the heart of Tallinn, close to Viru väljak in the Old Town. The wide range of packages includes everything from permanent makeup to all the latest beauty and wellbeing treatments. The Baltic Guide went to find out more about the skin rejuvenating Exilis procedure. This procedure can be used for the face, neck, and even the entire body. This ultrafast and safe skin lifting and rejuvenation procedure reduces fat and cellulite. It is a combination of therapeutic radio frequencies, ultrasound and cooling. After just two hours, wrinkles on the face and neck were visibly reduced. For the best results however, regular visits are recommended. After the initial facial cleansing, your skin feels warm, but is cooled soon thereafter. The procedure is entirely pain-free, as opposed

to mesotherapy. Both procedures affect the underlying layers of skin. After the procedure, drinking water is recommended. The Exilis procedure starts at 40. Skin feels more elastic and wrinkles are reduced. Four procedures for the face and neck cost 476. ■

Location Salong Freya Estetica, Aia 4 / Vana Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town B2.

The Exilis machine.

16

september events

■ Event and Concert Tickets

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

The view from the balloon is one of the best in Tallinn.

Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2. Photo: Festival Organiser

Experience in the sky

Light Walks in Kadriorg 18 September, Kadriorg Park This annual festival celebrates the end of summer and the beginning of autumn. Over 6000 candles and 1500 torches will light up the park. It is an excellent opportunity to get some unique photos of the park and palace. Visitors can also look forward to a concert programme.

IX Design Night Festival 25-28 September, Various locations in Tallinn The annual celebration of design introduces the public to the world of design and includes exhibitions, fashion shows, seminars and workshops.

SEB Tallinn Marathon 14 September, Tallinn This is one of the biggest festivals in the Baltics that last year, attracted over 15,000 runners from 42 countries. The marathon passes through some of the most beautiful sights of Tallinn, making this run not only exhilarating, but also beautiful. Possible distances are: 42,2 km, 21,1 km run, 10 km run or walking as well as children’s competitions. Photo: Event organiser

SEB 17th Tartu Mountain Bike Marathon 21 September This is the biggest mountain bike marathon in the Baltics and the third largest in the world. Last year, 8163 people took part. Distances available are 89 km or 40 km, as well as children’s races.

Lamprey Festival 29 September, Narva-Jõesuu Lampreys have been fished in NarvaJõesuu since prehistoric times. During this annual festival, a fish market is open at the pier. Buy fresh fish, or taste different dishes made with lampreys. Fishing excursions will also be organised, where you can go out with local fishermen and see how lampreys are caught.

Photo: Delfi

Enjoy an exquisite view of Tallinn from the harbour. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS BALLOON TALLINN

Take-off is located near the A Terminal. Balloon Tallinn’s manager Sigre Luts recommends that as soon as you see the balloon in the air, make your way over there. The weather is unpredictable in autumn. “While the balloon goes up and comes down in the morning, sometimes the wind can be strong at midday and we won’t be able to go up”. The balloon can fly with winds up to 24 knots. Balloon Tallinn’s team will keep an eye out on the weather and run test flights throughout the day. The flight lasts about 12 minutes, during which time the balloon rises to 120 metres. Thirty people can fit into the basket at one time, though with stronger winds, less people are allowed. The view opens as you go up. You can see Tallinn’s Old Town, as well as over the Gulf of Finland. The 124 metres high tower of Oleviste Church seems rather low from the balloon. “If the weather is clear, you can even see all the way to Helsinki”. Are there risks? “Yes, of course. The balloon has the same risks as

with any flight”, explained Sigre Luts. The balloon is attached to the ground with a cable, which can hold up to 42 tonnes. This is controlled electronically from the ground. There are also staff in the basket. The material of the balloon is bulletproof, meaning that it won’t break easily. The material is the balloon’s most expensive part”, explained Sigre.

The balloon is made in the UK at Lindstrand Technolgies Ltd factory. The company’s creator is Per Lindstrand from Sweden, who made a record flight with a hot air balloon over the Atlantic Ocean and earned fame for designing one of the lightest aircrafts. The balloon in Tallinn is not a hot air balloon, but is lifted from the ground with helium. The difference between a hot air balloon and a helium balloon is big. “A hot air balloon makes a journey from one point to another. The length and final destination of the flight are usually estimated, because the hot air balloon is very sensitive to wind. There is no fire in the helium balloon, as there is in the hot air balloon. A flight with Balloon Tallinn is easy and even children are allowed. “The basket is even wheelchair accessible”. The balloon is the only one of its kind in Northern Europe, the closest balloon is in Krakov. ■

Location Balloon Tallinn Port of Tallinn A Terminal Open every day 8.00-20.00

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september events

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The Biggest Horse Show in the Baltics The Tallinn International Horse Show will take place for the 12th year in a row. TEXT MIKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO KÜLLI TEDRE/ EQUESTRIAN FEDERATION OF ESTONIA

This is the largest international equestrian competition in the area and Estonia’s largest indoor sporting event. This year, about 100 riders and over 120 horses will take part in the event. The competition is organised by the Equestrian Federation of Estonia (ERL). A stage of the FEI World Cup will be part of the programme as well. The three-day event will attract thousands of spectators and will include other events as well. Included in the programme are some performances by some of Estonia’s most well known musi-

cians. There will also be a play area for children. Tickets to the International Horse Show are available through Piletilevi kiosks and on-line at www.piletilevi.ee. You can find more information about the programme at www.tallinnhorseshow.ee. ■

Location Tallinn International Horse Show 3-5 October Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt. 104b, Tallinn. Saku Suurhall is located near the Rocca al Mare shopping centre and the Tallinn Zoo.

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia Day of Estonian Bread and Autumn Fair on September 14 Autumn Farm Day on September 18 Michaelmas on September 29. Free admission! handicraft days on Härjapea Farm every Saturday, food days every Sunday Open daily at 10-20, from Sept 29 at 10-17 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

Tickets are available at www.piletilevi.ee More information www.tallinnhorseshow.ee

FEI World Cup Show Jumping!

FEI World Cup Dressage! Unique horse performances Well known Estonian musicians Entertainment to horse lovers of all ages

facebook.com/tallinnhorseshow

Presents

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museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Matti Varik «Signaal» Photo: KUMU

TALLINN ■ Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

■ Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

What’s on in September

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Our guide to art and museum exhibitions in Tallinn.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

■ Raul Meel. Dialogues with Infinity, Until ■ Life Circle, Open Wednesday through Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

12 October @ KUMU ■ Marju Mutsu. A Moment Captured in Etching, Until 21 September @ KUMU ■ Nikolai Triik. Classics of the Modernist Era, Until 28 September @ KUMU ■ Merike Estna and I’m a Painting, Until 2 November @ KUMU ■ Our Modernism. Estonian Sculpture in the 1960s–1970s, Until 23 November @ KUMU ■ Ruhnu Elegies, Until 19 October @ Adamson-Eric Museum ■ Greetings from Reval, Dorpat, Narva, Pernau, Fellin, Hapsal and Arensburg, Until 28 September @ Maarjamäe Palace, Estonian History Museum

Sunday @ Estonian Open Air Museum ■ Beginnings and Ends. From an Outskirt to a City, Until 25 January, 2015 @ Great Guild Hall, Estonian History Museum ■ Estonian Industrial Textile and Design, Until 9 November @ Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design ■ Raul Meel «Võlu ja Vaim»

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions

Attacks and migrations The Baltic Way 25 MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

Photo: KUMU

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ SSEEPPTTEEM MBBEERR 22001144

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Nisu

Trams

Balti jaam Telliskivi

1 Kadriorg – Kopli 2 Ülemiste– Kopli

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

Kolde puiestee Ädala Lille

Looga Mustjõe

Ülase

Hipodroom

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

From the driver

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

1 J. Poska

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Ülikool 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi AutobussiKoidu jaam Lubja Koidu

KADRIORG

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

Majaka

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli

2

Pae Bus Station

Majaka põik

VäikePaala

Tihase Marja

Sinilille

Tedre

Karikakra

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Õismäe PR

Airport

KRISTIINE

Sinilille

VäikeÕismäe

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle Humala

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Löwenruh

Nurmenuku

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Sääse

Kullerkupu

Ülemiste

E-tickets 1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy

Linnu tee

Aiandi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

Free

JÄRVE

■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

6-118-000

11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 16€ www.citytour.ee

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please..................................................... palun thank you ............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me ............................................ vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning .................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening ..................................... tere õhtust good night ........................................... head ööd goodbye ............................................... nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip................................. head reisi bon appetite ....................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

20

transport

MBBEERR 22001144 TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ SSEEPPTTEEM

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus:

■ Phone calls

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

P

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,58 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mon - Fri 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ■ Bt air: i

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,15 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,26 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mon - Fri 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.

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ŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 HAAPSALU 175 IKLA MAAKONNAD 347 288 KOIDULA 84 148 335 KUIVASTU HARJUMAA IDALĂ„Ă„NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ„RDLA JĂ„RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ•GEVAMAA 108 67 253 81 155PĂ„RNUMAA 161 291 PĂ„RNU VILJANDIMAA SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE 9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKĂœLA PĂ•LVAMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 VALGAMAA 99 108 TALLINN 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VĂ•RUMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI 22Ëš00' 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ•RU 22Ëš00'

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ŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300

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