The Baltic Guide ENG August 2012

Occupations museum and the restoration of independence Summer road trip - Kuressaare Interview: Ruth Kotsar August events

BEST SIGHTS IN TALLINN ve at See Lady Gaga li tival es F g n o S n in ll a T e h t st 25 Grounds on Augu

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Solaris Centre is located just a few steps away from the Old Town. It is the most modern and unique shopping, leisure and entertainment centre in Tallinn.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES. Here you will find: • Plenty of shops to suit all tastes: Apple Premium Reseller, Apollo book store, DenimDream fashion, Weplay games, Naughty Beauty lingerie, Cop Copine fashion, Armas Kodu home decor, etc. • Several restaurants and Komeet – a cafe with the most beautiful view in Tallinn. • The most innovative food store in the city with the largest selection of wine in Estonia. • Solaris Kino – a modern 3D multiplex with seven screens. • Cinema Artis – a classics cinema with two screens. • Nokia Concert Hall – the most well-equipped concert hall in the country.

Life is beautiful!

Estonia pst 9, Tallinn www.solaris.ee

-20% -50% -70% PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356 ./5 5"--*// r XXX DPOUNPEB FF 5FM r 0QFO .PO 'SJ 4BU

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

editorial

5 Contents

Happy endings s I write this I am sitting on a bus on my way to Tartu enjoying the free wireless internet access I now so often take for granted.

It’s truly remarkable, considering that in 1980 only half of the population had a phone line. Driving through Estonia in summer I am reminded of my first visit in the 1990s, when I travelled with my grandparents through their homeland. We took a bus from Tallinn to Tartu and did not even get a seat. Tickets had been sold for the route until there literally wasn’t an inch of room to move. Estonia was different then. Fifteen years later I see what this country has accomplished in such a short time, and see the great Estonia my grandparents talked about, just with internet.

A

August 20 will mark 21 years since the restoration of independence for Estonia. There will be concerts all over the country including The Song of the Free People in Kuressaare. While August marks the end of summer in Estonia, there is still plenty to see and do before the weather cools down. In this issue, read about the road to independence and the Occupations Museum. We have a guide to the must-see sights of Tallinn, and a self guided tour along the road to Pirita. Visit Saaremaa, Estonia’s largest island and Kuressaare. On the last Saturday in August say goodbye to summer on the night of the ancient bonfires, an Estonian tradition that honours the end of summer, an enchanting end to this enchanting time of year.

5 editorial 6-7 TOP 5, sights 8 day tripping 10 events 11 restaurants 12 culture 13 beauty & shopping 20 kuressaare 21 what's happening

14-15

Happy travels, Kristina Lupp

Must-see attractions Estonian Open Air Museum Tallinn Zoo Stroomi Beach Pikakari Beach and more!

August 20 – the day of restoration of independence is the most important day for me. I feel a strong personal attachment with my homeland.

On August 20, 1988, I entered the Pilistvere Church with 104 compatriots. We had formed The Estonian National Independence Party (ERSP) as an alternative to the ruling Communist Party of the Soviet Union. Our aim was to restore the independence that had been lost by the Soviet occupation of Estonia in 1940. We were the first ones in Estonia to declare this standpoint publicly.

On that day, three years later, we could at last proclaim that our aim had been accomplished.

Between these two dates, I was involved in numerous events and battles on the road to freedom.

On February 24, 1989, ERSP, The Estonian Heritage Society and The Estonian Christian Alliance formed the Estonian Citizens’ Committees. The aim was to register all citizens of the pre-war Republic of Estonia and their descendants, and to form a legislative body – The Estonian Congress that was to replace the nonlawful Soviet power.

Out of one million Estonians, 790 000 registered. Out of these were 557 163 elected representa-

tives to the Estonian Congress. No other popular vote in Estonia has attracted as many voters to the polls. It was probably one of the biggest citizens initiatives in the world.

On March 11, 1990 The Estonian Congress declared itself the legal representative of the Republic of Estonia.

On August 19, 1991, the day of the coup in Moscow, the leaders of the Estonian Supreme Soviet invited delegates from The Estonian Congress to negotiations. On August 20, they jointly declared the restoration of independent Estonia.

This decision expressed the will of the people. When thinking back to these moments I feel proud of our people and nation!

Eve Pärnaste Freedom fighter, previous political prisoner, artist Carrier of the III and V class Order of the National Coat of Arms

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

17 person Ruth Kotsar

The Baltic Guide

AUGUST 2012

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Distribution Network PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Mariano Vivanco

6 news

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

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Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

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TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: KRISTINA LUPP

Chef on board Dining at 10,000 metres.

Since 2011, Estonian Air has been offering their Premium class customers gourmet meals cooked by top Estonian chefs. Each month a different restaurant is chosen to feature the best of Estonian cuisine.

Back in June I was asked to come along for a flight from Tallinn to London. Marit Marga, from Vihula Manor (about hour’s drive east of Tallinn) came on board to talk about the menu and serve us food. Vihula Manor prides themselves on using local Estonian ingredients, and in the air it’s no different.

On the way to London, Marga served us pork tenderloin cooked sousvide with pota

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD ‡ ZZZ VWHDN HH 7DOOLQQ 9LUX

toes and salted cucumbers. Very Estonian indeed! The pork, because of the way that it was cooked was soft and moist, comparable to a good restaurant meal. On the way back, the fish cakes made with local Estonian fish and served with a creamy potato salad did not disappoint either.

In addition to the delicious food, Premium class offers its passengers complementary beer and wine, and spirits on journeys two or more hours long.

Estonian Air flies to many destinations in Europe. To book your ticket visit www. estonian-air.com â–

Tartuff

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square Open Everyday 11-23 MĂźndi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

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Kullass epa

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.

Excellent prices

Viru

August TOP 5 01 Celebrate the arts at night Augusti unetus or August Insomnia is an event that has become a tradition in Pärnu. On the evening of August 11, the summer capital of Estonia is filled with music and dance. Laughter therapy and exercising will be organised at the beach park. The centre of the action is on Supeluse, the street leading to the beach. Â

02 Love under the open sky

-30% with this coupon!

, Tallinn

Tartuff, or the Tartu Love Film Festival brings many films to Tartu's Town Hall Square from August 6-11. The festival will feature 12 full-length feature films. Great documentaries will be playing at the Athena centre. Â

03 For onion and fish lovers only

On August 25 enjoy the strong flavours of onions and fish in Lßßbnitsa. For the 12th year in a row this small town will organise the Onion and Fish Market (Lßßbnitsa sibula- ja kalaturg). And since you're already in the area you can go and watch the Seto Dance and Song Festival. Local fish, onions, handicrafts and traditional Seto clothing will be on sale at the market. Lßßbnitsa is located on the banks of Lämmijärv Lake, about an hour's drive from Tartu. Â

04 Gunpowder-scented history festival

From August 10-12, the Northern War comes to life in Narva. The event showcases a re-enactment of the fighting between the Swedes and Russians in 18th century style. The event takes place at the Hermann Castle and surrounding areas. Â

05 A night of ancient bonfires

On the last Saturday of August, bonfires are lit all along the beaches of the Baltic Sea to honour the end of summer. Muinastulede ÜÜ, as it is called in Estonian has many events all over Estonia, in particular in Pärnu, Tallinn, and Kärdla. Â

sights 7

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

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Enjoy summer in Tallinn Walk, bike, or take the bus along the seashore road to the Pirita beach.

www.maharaja.ee

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BELLY DANCING OPEN EVERYDAY 12–24 // RAEKOJA PLATS 13, TALLINN // TEL. +372 6 444 367, +372 5 163 7233 Fri, Sat 20-21

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Liisu Juures (At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting

The Pirita Yacht Harbour was built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

From the Old Town, head for Pirita, the most popular beach in Tallinn, about six kilometres from the city centre. Pirita road, which runs beside beautiful Tallinn Bay will take you there.

Why not walk or take a bike to enjoy the Tallinn skyline and the many historical sights along the way.

The baroque Kadriorg Palace was built by tsar Peter the Great for his wife Catherine and is surrounded by a beautiful park.

The Rusalka Memorial is perhaps the most beautiful statue in Estonia, with a gracious angel holding an orthodox cross commemorating the Russian warship Rusalka that sunk in 1893.

The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds is a symbolic place for Estonians. Choirs with up to 30,000 people have sung at the same time for numerous song festivals. This was a place of huge political concern during the Singing Revolution that took place between

1988-1991. Artists like the Rolling Stones, Elton John, and Tina Turner have performed on this stage as well. See Lady Gaga on August 25!

The Maarjamäe Castle is part of the Estonian History Museum and has many permanent exhibits discussing the last century in Estonia.

The Olympic Regatta Premises, including the yacht harbour were built for the regattas that took place as part of the 1980 Olympic games in Moscow.

The ruins of the Pirita Convent date back to the early 1400s. The annual world class Birgitta Opera Festival will be held from August 11 – 20.

The 3 km long Pirita Beach is the most popular beach in Tallinn.

Welcome!

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News: Breakfast served 10–12 with free vodka shot

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Location Tallinn Hop-on-Hop-off, Green Line Tallinn Map Code A4 and beyond.

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Come and discover the Eesti Pank Museum! www.eestiipankk.ee

THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM ANNIVERSARY SEASON

76 historical buildings, farm animals, exhibitions, Estonian national food at the inn performances by the Folklore Society Leigarid on Sat and Sun at 11:00 handicraft demos, netting, blacksmithing, farm work of the past, etc Open daily 10-20. Buses: 21 and 21 B, leaving from the Balti train station. City Tour blue line leaving from Viru Square Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

The Rusalka Memorial commemorates the Russian warship that sunk in 1893.

day tripping

8

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

Tallinn

TALLINN

Rakvere

Estonia: Quick Trips Not sure what to do while you’re in Estonia? Too much to see, too little time? The Baltic Guide is here to help. We’ve put together a few suggestions for you.

Day 1 in Tallinn

From Tallinn, about 180km southeast, is the university town of Tartu. Daily connections by train or bus from Tallinn are convenient and inexpensive. (For more information, timetables and ticket prices visit: www.bussireisid.ee; www.edel.ee) Visitor information: www.visittartu.com See page 20 for Tartu city map.

Shopping: For some unique souvenirs, visit Oma Asi (Saiakang 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2). Here you’ll find distinctive handicrafts including knitwear and jewellery. Nu Nordik (Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J1) has modern Estonian designs, including clothing, jewellery and home décor items. A. Galerii (Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) features mostly modern Estonian jewellery.

Take a walk through Tartu’s Old Town. Visit the Town Hall Square to see good examples of neoclassical and late-baroque architecture. The fountain in the middle of the square in front of the Town Hall features a young couple kissing under an umbrella in the rain. About a block from the square is the main building for Tartu University (Ülikooli tnv 18, Tartu). A little further on are the Botanical Gardens (Lai 40, Tartu) that have an impressive collection of over 6500 plant species, many of which are housed in a giant greenhouse.

Church: Visit the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral (Lossi plats, Tallinn Map Code B1). Built between 1894-1900, this Orthodox cathedral was part of the Russification of the Baltic provinces in the last quarter of the 19th century.

Museum: The Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) was recently renovated in 2011.

This museum has wonderful exhibits to help you get acquainted with Estonia’s past. Free entry on the last Thursday of every month.

Dinner: Get a taste of the Russian side of Estonia with a meal at Troika (Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Try a selection of Russian dumplings (pelmeenid), roasted eel, or bear meat stew. Then wash it all down with a shot of vodka.

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Day 2 in Tallinn:

Take a walk, or rather hop on the City Tour bus to see greater Tallinn. Get off at Kadriorg Park (Tallinn Map Code A4), and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. Or stay on the bus and visit the ruins of the Pirita Convent (Merivälja tee 18).

Tartu

1 Day in Tartu:

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Take a walk through Tallinn’s Old Town, and up the hill to Toompea.

Toompea, located on the upper part of the Old Town has great views over the city and the Gulf of Finland. In the lower part of the centre, wander through narrow streets and get a true feeling for this medieval northern town.

Lunch: Enjoy a quick medieval lunch at the Town Hall (Reakoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Elk soup and traditional ale are served in earthenware bowls and cups. Stuffed pastries (pirukad) are baked throughout the day, and are worth the wait, should they run out. Too nice to sit inside? As the weather warms up, patios pop up all over the Town Hall Square, a great place to people-watch.

Tartu

Day Trip from Tallinn: RAKVERE: is located close to Lahemaa National Park, a favourite place for hiking in the summer. About 100km east of Tallinn, Rakvere is the fifth largest city in Estonia.

Rakvere Castle Ruins: This is the city’s main attraction. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber.

Town Hall Square: Built in 2004, this is probably Estonia’s most modern town hall square.

Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity: (Pikk 19, Rakvere) A medieval church built in the 17th century with a strangely tall and slim spire.

Rakvere Town Citizen’s Home Museum: (Pikk 50) Get a feel for life in Estonia at the end of the 19th century. This museum showcases how people lived in Rakvere at the time.

Dining: Try the Art Café (Lai 13), for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It has a cosy, yet modern interior. Taste their selection of savoury pancakes.

Museum: Visit the Estonian National Museum (Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu). This museum displays temporary and permanent exhibits about Estonian history and culture. It is a wonderful place to become acquainted with Estonian customs and life in Estonia. Or, for something a little different, visit the Toy Museum (Lutsu 8, Tartu). Fun for both children and adults, this museum showcases everything from traditional Finno-Ugric toys, to nostalgic toys from the Soviet era.

Lunch: Enjoy a quiet lunch at the Eduard Wilde Café (Vallikraavi 4, Tartu). This restaurant has a large patio open in the summertime. Their long menu has everything from curries to schnitzels, Caesar salad to crispy pork salad.

Church: Founded in 1330, the Jaani Church (Jaani 5, Tartu) has been rebuilt many times. Despite being ruined by Soviet bombing in 1944, its restoration reflects the original structure. Enjoy 15 minutes of music every Tuesday and Friday at 12.15pm.

Dinner: Built in a former gunpowder cellar, the Püssirohukelder (Lossi 28, Tartu) is a unique place to come for good hearty food. Popular among students, this pub often features live music.

Evening entertainment: Enjoy everything from ballet, opera, musicals, and children’s plays at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre (Vanemuise 6, Tartu). For more information and tickets visit www.vanemuine.ee)

Museum: Visit the KUMU Art Museum (Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn Map Code B4) in Kadriorg. Admire Estonian art from the beginning of the 18th century to present. The gallery also has a café with a nice view over the park.

Lunch: Get a taste for modern inspired Estonian and Russian food at Kohvik Moon (Võrgu 3, Tallinn Map Code A2). Try the Siberian dumplings in mushroom stock, or the herring. Bookings recommended.

Church: Experience another great view over the city from the tower of the Oleviste Church (Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2). Once the tallest structure in Northern Europe, this church was dedicated to the 11th century Norwegian King Olaf II. During the Soviet period, it worked as a surveillance centre for the KGB. Dinner: Restaurant Ö (Mere pst 6E, Tallinn Map Code B2) serves modern Estonian food, using fine local ingredients and experimenting with traditional flavours. Try the six-course degustation menu to get a taste of what modern Estonian cuisine is all about.

Evening Entertainment: Take in a performance at the Estonian National Opera and the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2). Enjoy opera, ballet, or a concert in this theatre founded at the beginning of the 20th century. For tickets and information: www.opera.ee; www.concert.ee

Photo: Toomas Tuul The 'kissing fountain' is located in Tartu's Town Hall Square.

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

www.troika.ee R ȱ ȱŗśǰȱT ǰȱE ȱȊȱT ǯȱƸřŝŘȱŜŘŝȱŜŘŚśȱȊȱ ȓ ǯ

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-BJ 0ME 5PXO 5BMMJOO t Mon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00 t +372 6 650 928 restoran@chateau.ee t www.chateau.ee

Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

Bring this ad with you and enjoy a complimentary

GLASS OF LIQUEUR!

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TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

HEALTHY FRESH FAST PASTA & PIZZA from

4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 25 47

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

10

august events

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

August News Tougher laws for cyclists Similar to the winter checks for pedestrians for reflectors, Tallinn Police will soon implement checks for the Traffic Act introduced last year. This Traffic Act, in effect since July 2011 requires all cyclists to have at least four reflectors on their bikes as well as a bell. Cyclists under the age of 16 are required to wear a helmet.

Port of Tallinn to expand The Port of Tallinn announced a 10 million Euro project to build a second quay where ships can moor and unload passengers. An expected 294 cruise ships and 430,000 passengers are anticipated to pass through the Port this year.

The Birgitta Opera Festival (August 11-20) takes place at the ruins of the Pirita Convent.

What to see and do in August Summer may be coming to an end, but the summer festivals continue.

Here are some of the highlights: TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Quality of Estonia’s swimming water best in EU In a report published by the European Environment Agency, Estonian lakes and rivers scored the highest in water quality for bathing. The main criteria for testing were for enterococci and E. coli. Of the 28 inland bodies of water tested, 26 scored “excellent” and two “good.”

Kohtla-Nõmme Mining Park now open to visitors The mineshafts of the Kohtla-Nõmme mining park are now open to visitors.

Located in northern Estonia, this interactive park explains the history of Estonia’s oil shale industry, future of the industry and discusses energy in general. Explore the tunnels with a guide to see what working conditions in mines were like.

Follow Estonia’s international Facebook page Visitestonia.com offers tourists regular updates on different holidays and events in Estonia. Use the site to share travel experiences or get recommendations from fellow travellers.

Q Kings and the horn of plenty – August 4 Three different festivals take place on the same day within an hour's drive of Tartu, the second largest city in Estonia. In the tiny village of Värska, Setos – an Estonian ethnic minority - celebrate their Kingdom with ancient traditions, including a true feast and music.

The tiny village of Kasepää lures visitors to the shores of Lake Peipus with a fish and water festival. The region is also known for the orthodox Russian old believers community, onions, and cucumbers.

In Sangaste, traditional bread baking will take place at the Rye Festival!

These events will show you a totally different Estonia than the one you’ve seen in Tallinn. www.setomaa.ee www.visitjogeva.ee

Q Kärdla Café Day – August 4 For one day in August, the town of Kärdla, on the island of Hiiumaa will be filled with the smell of

freshly brewed coffee, and of course good food! The cafés of this small town fill the streets, yards, and public squares for a great gastronomic experience. www.hiiumaa.ee Q Tartu Love Film Festival tARTuFF – August 6 - 11 For six days Tartu’s Town Hall Square becomes an open-air cinema. tARTuFF is a sub-festival of the Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival which presents a comprehensive selection of world cinema in all its diversity. tARTuFF focuses on LOVE! www.poff.ee http://2011.tartuff.ee/eng/ Q Birgitta Festival – August 11-20 The Birgitta Opera Festival takes place amidst the ruins of the historical Birgitta Convent. It has established itself as a world-class event under the auspices of maestro Eri Klas. This year visitors can enjoy opera and ballet, like Carmina Burana, Esmeralda, The Nose, Il Tabarro, and Don Giovanni with guest performers from the Mari State Opera and Ballet Theatre in Russia, The Boris Pokrovsky Moscow Chamber Musical Theatre, the Garsington Opera (UK) and Estonian vocal soloists as well as the Opera Chorus and Estonian National Opera Boys Choir. www.birgitta.ee

Q Day of the Restoration of Independence – August 20 Estonia restored its independence from the Soviet Union on August 20, 1991. It is a public holiday with flag hoisting, gatherings and concerts all over the country. In Kuressaare, on the island of Saaremaa, a concert called The Song of a Free People will be staged at the historical Kuressaare Castle.

will take place during the Tallinn Chamber Music Festival with top musicians from Poland, Lithuania, USA, Italy, Finland, Israel, Sweden, and Estonia. The aim of the festival is to promote top Estonian performers as well as to bring musicians from various countries together. First to appear on stage will be the opera L’Orfeo by Luigi Rossi. www.plmf.ee

Q Taekwondo Junior and Senior World Championship – August 23 Fans of combat sports can enjoy the Taekwondo Junior and Senior World Championships at the Saku Suurhall. Juniors are 14-18 years of age and seniors 40+. In addition to combat Taekwondo, there will also be self-defence sports and meditation.

Saku Suurhall, Tallinn, www.tkd.ee

Q Music from Georgia – August 28 World famous Georgian ensemble Erisioni, founded in 1885, can be enjoyed in the Tallinn Nokia Concert Hall, along with traditional dances and songs from Georgia.

There is reason to believe that the group will be warmly greeted thanks to the strong ties between Estonia and Georgia. www.ticketpro.ee

Q Lady Gaga – August 25 See Lady Gaga, as part of her latest tour at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. Known for her electrifying performances, this show promises to be magnificent. The tour consists of 110 concerts worldwide and will finish in March 2013.

Tickets: www.ticketpro.ee

Q Bird watching – every Saturday in August If you fancy birds, then take part in bird watching at the Matsalu National Park on the main road between Tallinn and the island of Saaremaa. You can go on a tour alone or as part of a guided excursion from Tallinn every Saturday with Estonian Nature Tours.

Matsalu is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved Estonian ecosystems. epp@naturetours.ee, or call +372 55680665, - 10 discount with Tallinn Card. Q

Q The VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival – August 24-31 Nine concerts in the nicest concert halls and churches in Tallinn

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

restaurants

11

A Mediterranean Alter Ego Spanish tapas in the heart of Tallinn.

spanish TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Alter Ego restaurant is located in between the buildings of the Rotermann Centre. The res-

taurant is in the square, which during summer months is full of life and has many outdoor patios.

The area has a very comfortable Western European vibe.

Alter Ego's interior has a lounge atmosphere with everything from the bar to the sofas. The ove-

The tapas is colourful and delicious.

Watch the chefs busy at work in the open kitchen.

rall appearance is stylish and there is comfortable furniture on the patio as well.

As appetisers, there are soups, salads (4.50-10) and tapas (from 2.50) as well as Estonian delicacies such as venison carpaccio (9.50).

Enjoy the Mediterranean favourite Spanish paella (10-25).

Sit back and enjoy a glass of sherry, while you wait; the menu warns it takes half an hour to prepare.

Estonian main dishes include venison filet and local filet mignon.

The "business lunch" menu for under 10, included three courses for us to try. The lunch special was chicken liver paté, a salmon pasta, and ice cream; indeed a very good meal. My companion had a generous portion of serrano ham and olives from the tapas menu.

The serrano ham was that of the Iberico black mountain pigs that eat acorns.

In addition to the tapas we tried a delicious meat soup flavoured with sherry and quail eggs.

Fresh bread, with an oil-balsamic dipping sauce was included in the

price. Overall, the food was very good and wonderfully satisfying.

The prices for a centrally located restaurant are reasonable.

With good quality food, a pleasing atmosphere and good service, Alter Ego is the complete package.

■

Location Alter Ego, Roseni 5, Tallinn Map Code B2

Beautiful fusion In the Mix kitchen, traditional European dishes are united with Asian flavours.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Fusion cuisine is certainly not a new concept. Many Estonian restaurants up until now have stuck to more traditional styles. Mix adds its own style to the Tallinn restaurant scene. There are many

interesting dishes on the menu, there is even a great choice of sushi, starting at 1,50 per piece.

The interior of this new restaurant has a distinct Scandinavian elegance –modern lounge style and calm colours and shapes.

The Baltic Guide tried dishes

The dishes look like works of art.

The interior of this new restaurant has a distinct Scandinavian elegance.

from different groups on the menu. For starters we had the goose liver terrine, which was delicious and melted in your mouth.

The mango chutney on the side was a great accompaniment, adding that hint of Asian flavour.

The perfect sized portion set our taste buds watering for what was to come next.

The Russian potato salad came with slow-cooked deer and crayfish.

The deer was succulent and I could have certainly eaten much more.

We also tried the sushi, and Mix definitely knows what they are doing when it comes to this Japanese favourite. The maki and nigri were just right for one bite.

For dessert we tried a cherry cheesecake, a great ending to a great meal. It had just the right amount of sweetness.

Main dishes cost between 8 and 28, like the Thai-style tuna with Estonian slow-cooked deer.

There are also two soups on the menu: a gazpacho (5) and Tom

Kha Gain (3,50).

Fusion cuisine pays special attention to the appearance of the dish as well as the flavour combinations. At Mix, this was no exception, the dishes looked like works of art.

■

Location Restoran Mix Fusion, Pikk 33. Map Code Tallinn Old Town G2.

Bo

12

culture

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■ Restaurant News Ice Cream Nostalgia After 20 years the Soviet era favourite Pinguin Ice cream is back on sale at Meriton Hotels in Tallinn. Next to the classics, chocolate and vanilla, you can also try green apple and caramel as well the new healthier option of frozen yogurt. Sales kiosks are open daily from 11-22 at:

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn Meriton Old Town Hotel (Russian dinner room), Lai 49, Tallinn Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel (Cafe Mademoiselle), Lai 24 / Pikk 29, Tallinn

The museum has many artefacts of display.

Pikk 17 in the Old Town.

Top 50 restaurants in Estonia Foodies can look for the “50 Best Restaurants” sticker on the door of restaurants throughout Estonia, though the majority are located in Tallinn. Since 2008 the best restaurants have been chosen to showcase good food and overall best dining experience. This year it’s a little different. The best 50 restaurants that were chosen in the spring will undergo further tastings to receive their ranking in October.

11,000 years of history under one roof Learn about Estonia's history from the Stone Age to the present.

www.eestimaitsed.com

Dining, Soviet style Ever wonder what a Soviet era cafeteria looked like? Now you can take a step back in time at Söökla (diner in English) to serve yourself and clean up your own dishes afterwards. The menu changes daily to include a selection of soups, mains, and desserts, all at very reasonable prices. It’s worth the trip out of the city centre (with trams 3 or 4 to the end of the line) just to see the décor.

Söökla Pärnu mnt 142, Tallinn www.söökla.ee

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

After recent repairs in one of the most exquisite buildings in Tallinn's Old Town, the Great Guild Hall is open to visitors.

Spirit of Survival: 11,000 years of Estonian History is the ambitious new exhibit at the Estonian History Museum. It's not easy to put an entire people's history into one exhibit, but thanks to new

museum technology and artefacts this has been possible. There are interesting facts and information everywhere, including films and interactive exhibits. The visitor will no doubt get a good picture of Estonian history and important historical dates.

Well-chosen exhibits, which contain true treasures, offer good information as well. Whether visitors are interested in currency,

weapons, agricultural equipment or everyday objects, there is sure to be something for everyone. The oldest artefacts are those of the Stone Age, and the newer ones exhibit computer technology.

The exhibition is laid out over three floors. The main exhibition is found on the top floor, the lower level talks about the history of the Great Guild Hall and includes an armoury. You can look at

display cases and drawers filled with money and jewellery on the second floor in the small room.

■

Location About 100 meters from Town Hall Square, Pikk 17. Tallinn Old Town Map Code Open daily in summer from 10 to 18

The end of the folk summer If you haven’t made it to a folk festival, it’s not too late.

Viru Folk takes place August 10-12.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS VIRU FOLK

Thanks to Viru Folk, the small town of Käsmu comes to life.

For three days, thousands of folk music fans of all ages fill the town.

The seaside stage is filled with bands from Estonia as well as elsewhere. The festival’s headli-

Tallinn Fish market re-opens Every Saturday from 10-16 you can once again enjoy fresh fish from the Kalaturg (or Fish Market in English).

The market has been renovated with an enclosed area, seating, and a covered space for vendors. The market will also have a café serving lights meals, and of course fish.

Kalaturg Kalasadam, Kalaranna 1, Tallinn

ners include Canadian, Melanie Dekker, Atlantida, and Chupai Eli from Russia. Estonian performers include Marko Matvere & Väikeste Lõõtspillide Ühing, Dagö featuring Riho Sibul, and of course Zetod.

In addition to music, the festival will also feature films, poetry

evenings, and nature hikes in the neighbouring areas of Käsmu. You won’t go hungry either; there are plenty of cafés and even a great fish restaurant in town. There is even plenty to do for children.

It takes about an hour to get to Käsmu from Tallinn. Tickets can be purchased on-line from

Piletilevi. A day ticket cost 22 in advance, and a festival pass is 55. ■

Location Viru Folk August 10-12, Käsmu, in Vihula county.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

beauty

13

■ H&M in Estonia!

■ One of a kind glasses

The wait is over. H&M (Hennes & Mauritz), the Swedish clothing retailer announced in late June that it will open two retail locations in Tallinn in the fall of 2013. One of the locations will be situated in the new shopping centre in the former post office in Tallinn’s city centre. This new shopping complex will also have a Rimi grocery store.

Estonian designer Karl Annus makes eyeglass frames out of wood. Each pair is handcrafted to suit the client personally. Annus said in a recent television interview that it’s important that glasses suit the individual not the fashion trend. Different styles of glasses are made from different types of wood, meaning that you will never see two pairs alike. www.karl.ee

An entire world for children, and parents too!

Along with two-year-old Selina, The Baltic Guide went to explore the Children's department at the Tallinn Kaubamaja, which opened in March. The Children's department has two storeys, and is wonderfully imaginative.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Use the lift in the Viru Centre, located on the second floor of the women's department to get to the children's department.

The fourth floor has new and old well-known brands. To get around easier, families can get strollers or shopping carts for younger children near the feeding and diaper changing room.

The room also has a microwave and various sizes of diapers. To accommodate children, there are low sinks and toilets.

The fourth floor there is also a children’s hairdresser, where tablets are attached to the mirrors to entertain the young clients. On the same floor, enjoy the playroom of the favourite Estonian cartoon character Lotte. Children can be left in there for one hour freeof-charge, provided that you can show a same day purchase.

From there you can then visit the newly renovated women’s depart-

ment. In the children's play room, children can also try on clothing in the fitting rooms.

The children's clothing floor is designed like a city, where the “streets” are lined with “houses” of various brands of clothes hanging on trees.

There is a clock tower between the first and second level of the children’s department that kids can climb up. Up on the fifth floor of the Department store are games, developmental and educational toys, equipment for very young children, soft toys, game tables, computer games, and a carousel. For older children there is different spy equipment available including listening devices.

There is an international representation of brands of toys, as well as new brands like Eastcolight that produce a variety of resources for young scientists. For roleplaying there are kitchens to plan and remake and for theatre lovers there are finger puppets and cos-

tumes available.

On the fifth floor, take a break after shopping in the ice cream café. In the children’s department, there are special events planned

A swim with the fishes The Aloe Spa in Tallinn is truly one-of-a-kind.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Aloe Spa offers different Danné Face and Body Therapies.

I tried the therapy with two enzymes. I was cautioned at the beginning of this 90 minute treatment that this facial was unlike any I had ever had before. And they weren’t lying. The facial starts off like any other, your skin is cleaned and exfoliated but then it’s time for the mask. Two separate layers are applied. You are left for 45 minutes to allow the mask dry. At first you won’t feel anything, but as the mask starts to harden you will feel your skin

on Saturdays. The staff are always happy to help. Malle Grünberg, who in Estonia is well known in her field, designed the colourful fifth floor. ■

Location

tightening. This means it’s working. Often it needs a bit of help, so the Danne- therapist used a fan to help speed the drying along.

Immediately I could feel my skin tightening even more, and at the same time, the second layer of the mask was exercising my skin.

The enzyme therapy works with your skin, as the therapist had explained to me, to leave it feeling firm. As the mask is removed, you can feel your skin letting go.

Needless to say, you must go and try it for yourself.

Aloe Spa also offers fish therapy. That’s right, this is that thing that you’ve been hearing about where you sit in a bath and dozens of tiny fish swim around you and nibble on your skin. It feels a little strange at first, but then you just

can’t enough! This 100 natural therapy leaves your skin feeling smooth like a baby’s, which is particularly desirable on your feet.

Aloe Spa offers a Dr. Fisch pedicure (90 minutes) or a Dr. Fisch footbath (30 minutes). The procedure, or rather the fish exfoliate, clean and scrub your skin to leave it feeling better than ever.

The Aloe Spa offers also offers traditional spa treatments, manicures, pedicures, classical massage and sport massage, just to name a few. The atmosphere is tranquil and there is no doubt you will leave feeling relaxed, yet energised. ■

Tallinn Kaubamaja 4th and 5th floors.

The entrance is through the second floor of the Viru Centre. Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2, Tallinn. Map Code B2.

Location Aloe Spa Rotermanni 5 / Roseni 10 Rotermanni Atrium 1st floor Tallinn Map Code A2. www.aloespa.ee

Map Code A2.

14

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

Traditonal folk costumes can be admired at the Viimsi Open

Must-see Tallinn is a beautiful city and in the summer there is plenty to see and do on both rainy and sunny days.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Old Town is undoubtedly an international tourism gem, which in the summer is in its glory. But there are also many interesting things outside of the Old Town for all ages. Here are just tips to make sure that you get the most out of your time in Tallinn.

The Pirita Convent Ruins are close to the beach.

Estonian Open Air Museum The Tallinn Zoo Stroomi Beach Pikakari Beach The Seaplane Harbour Nõmme Adventure Park Miia-Milla-Manda Children's Centre Kadrioru Park Kumu Art Museum Estonian History Museum Pirita Convent Ruins Botanical garden TV Tower Pirita Beach Viimsi Open Air Museum and the Museum of Coastal Folk

1. Estonian Open Air Museum

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2. The Tallinn Zoo

14

Piritaa

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Rocca al Mare o oo

Rocca al Mare open-air museum has buildings and houses from all over Estonia. The cosy tavern and the recently opened “village shop” offer a bite to eat, but you can also bring your own food to enjoy at one of the many picnic areas available. The buildings are mainly from the 19th century, making the log houses and thatched roofs, a sight not to be missed.

15

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

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At the zoo in the summer, children can pat the cute animals.

There are hundreds of species of animals, everything from mammals to fish to birds.

The Zoo is located in the Rocca al Mare district, and you should plan to be there for several hours, especially if you want to see all of the animals. The bus stops at the nearby shopping centre (one of the largest in Estonia).

Visiting the zoo and the open-air museum makes for a good day trip.

3. Stroomi Beach Stroomi beach is a great beach for swimming and is located in north Tallinn. Amenities are good and there are many things for children

as well. Refreshments and light meals are available at the cafés; enjoy ice cream from the kiosk.

Many activities are also offered.

4. Pikakari Beach This is Tallinn's most unknown beach because the bus does not quite get you there. But it’s worth a short walk from the bus stop, especially if you want to spend a peaceful day on the beach. There is parking for cars, but the easiest access is by bicycle, which is just a short ride from town.

5. The Seaplane Harbour A new tourist spot for the whole family. The Seaplane Harbour or Lennusadam (as it is called in Estonian) is more than just a maritime museum. The largest exhibits are the ships and a submarine. Many of the exhibits are interactive so that for example, visitors can try navigating a ship in the dark Tallinn harbour. There is plenty to see and do for people of all ages and the building itself is worth seeing.

6. Nõmme Adventure Park The Nõmme park trails are not for everyone, especially if you happen to have a fear of heights.

If you want to play outdoors and challenge yourself, then Nõmme Adventure Park is the place to go.

Mainly built between the trees, there are 6 adventure trails with a total length of 700 m, and a variety of 70 "obstacles.” A couple of hours on the track go quickly.

Open daily 10 – 22 in summer, entrance fees are between 4 and 16.50.

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

15

Vivid colours of the exotic birds at the Tallinn Zoo.

Air Museum.

Interesting exhibits at the Estonian History Museum.

attractions

7. Miia-Milla-Manda Children's Centre

10. Estonian History Museum

The museum’s official name is Miia-Milla-Manda and is designed as a young children's activity centre. There is plenty to do for 3 to 10 year olds. Miia-Milla-Manda is located in the Kadriorg park pavilion that was built in 1930.

Maarjamäe Palace is part of the Estonian History Museum. Its main exhibition focuses on 20th century events. In the Great Hall, Soviet-era paintings take one's thoughts to "buried" monuments behind the house.

8. Kadrioru Park

11. Pirita Convent Ruins

The Kadriorg Palace and park area was built for the wife of Peter the Great. The palace houses Estonia's Foreign Art Museum. In summer this place is like an oasis in the middle of the city.

One can have a picnic on the edge of the water, watch the swans and spend more time there beyond just going for a walk.

Among Tallinn's most notable destinations are no doubt the ruins of the Pirita convent. There are four upright walls, between which a classical music festival Brigitta is held in August. Although there is not much to see but ruins, it’s just a quick walk to the beach afterwards.

9. Kumu Art Museum

The Botanic Garden is a great place for picnics and there is plenty of space for everyone. In the large botanical gardens enjoy food among the trees or in the open areas. The greenhouse is open to visitors year-round. Enjoy a coffee or ice cream under a canopy of the trees in case of rain.

The Art Museum of Estonia features Estonian art that attracts thousands of tourists every year, and the building itself is worth coming to see. At Kumu there is a good restaurant and its beautiful setting in Kadriorg makes it an excellent summer destination.

12. Botanic Gardens

Chillin' at the Tallinn Zoo.

?

13. TV Tower It's pretty tall, need we say more?

The tower was opened to the public in the spring and continues to draw a lot of visitors. If you wish to go and eat at the restaurant with a magnificent view, you should book early. There is an informative exhibition describing the tower's history. The view from the viewing platform (at the 170m height) is certainly worth a trip to the top.

14. Pirita Beach A very small number of cities have such a big sandy beach so close by.

Pirita beach is Tallinn's natural phenomenon. If you are a beach person then you should go to Pirita. Locals frequent the beach and there are many cafés to try as well.

15. Viimsi Open Air Museum and the Museum of Coastal Folk From Viimsi, admire the expansive view of the silhouettes of the hundreds of years old towers that form the Tallinn skyline. Here, the appeal of an open-air museum is that it is a 19th century homestead with all its original buildings. Even more interesting

The greenhouse at the Botanic Gardens is open all year.

are the exhibits at the Coastal Folk museum 500 meters away that explore the Coastal people’s life and history. Look at boats, including a large trawler. The fishing and sealing industry as well as the famous Kirov collective farm has its place in the exhibition. A 3 ticket includes admission to both museums.

In Viimsi visit the Estonian War Museum situated in a 15th century manor.

■

Pirita Beach is full of locals and tourists alike.

16

food

Paté was a favourite food for the astronauts.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

Põltsamaa is about a two-hour drive from Tallnn.

Cosmonaut approved food Cosmonauts Georgy Gretško and Laeksei Leonov visited Estonia last autumn.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kitchen equipment on display at the museum.

The aforementioned was on the first trip into space in 1965.

George Gretško was in space in 1977. The men added that in central Estonia, in Pôltsamaa, the cosmonaut food was prepared.

Estonians already had a German tube product factory established in 1960 where the first Soviet cosmonaut foods were prepared.

Soviet studies showed that the diet of astronauts should contain phosphorus. It was found in cow brains, and was an important component of patés, which were considered a delicacy and favourite food by the astronauts.

Space inspired Cosmos marmalade was produced for the average consumer to enjoy; almost all Estonians have stories about the product. Some loved it straight from the tube, while others flavoured it with liquor.

In 1972, the production of the space food was moved to the Soviet Union and the Space tubes disappeared from production in 1992. Nowadays we see these nostalgic products in the Põltsamaa castle museum's wine cellar near the back.

The Region's largest employer Currently Põltsamaa Felix produces some of Estonia's favourite

food products. In addition to producing the famous mustard, they make salad dressings, ketchup, smoothies and juices. Flavourful cucumbers and canned soups are well known and appreciated by the Finns. Roast pork accompanied by fried cabbage is undeniably the best. Foods sealed in glass jars keep well at room temperature, which make them convenient to take along on a trip.

Põltsamaa Felix, employs 190 people and is the region's largest employer. ■

Proper food at the lion’s pub The Kentuki Lõvi Pub is located on the other side of the river and may just warrant the title of Pärnu's best pub.

TEXT AND PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA

The place is wonderfully refurbished and carefully furnished.

Fancy leather sofas let you rest your feet and enjoy the atmosphere. The courtyard is the city's largest and innermost patio, where events are organised during the summer. A varied menu offers salads, soups, burgers, fish, and meat. Prices vary from 5 to 10.

The Baltic Guide test group tried chicken salad, Kentuki hamburgers, and the fried salmon in white wine sauce. The salmon was accompanied with potatoes, sautéed tiger shrimp, and spring vegetables. The salmon was well cooked yet moist. There could

have been a bit more of the delicious white wine sauce.

This time the winners were the chicken salad and the burger;

they were both delicious and better than the usual pub food.

All three portions cost a total of 16, w h i c h

Kentucki Lôvi patio is protected from sea winds in Pärnu.

The delicious chicken salad makes for a great lunch on a hot summer day.

shows you just how reasonable it was.

On the weekends, the pub is mostly filled with locals who enjoy the music. There is no lack of good cheer and good company! ■

Location Kentuki Lõvi Pubi, Tallinna mnt. 12, Pärnu.

Bus hire with

driver

Transfers info@vilandert.ee www.vilandert.ee Tel: +372 513 98 45

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18

sport

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

From the sea ■ Sea kayaking trips around the Bay of Tallinn are organised by the company 360 kraadi. English language tours leave at 11.00 daily.

■ Tallinn Bay kayak trips are suitable for beginners and children as young as 12 years. The trip is 9km in total and lasts three to four hours.

■ For the journey you are supplied with a double sea kayak, paddles, life jacket and waterproof jacket. It's worth taking along an extra pair of clothes and sandals that you can carry along in the boat.

■ You can also take a sea kayak to one of the nearby islands, like Aegne. These trips are can be organised through 360 kraadi and the Reimann Matkad company.

Tallinn by kayak See Tallinn from a different angle.

TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA PHOTOS: MIKKO VIRTA, 360 KRAADI

The fresh sea breeze, the beautiful Tallinn skyline, and the sound of seagulls flying overhead are just a few things that you can enjoy on a sea kayaking tour around Tallinn. The trip begins at the beach, close to the Linnahall.

Before heading out on our tour, our guide Josep gave us kayaking tips and explained some important safety tips. Safety comes first, even though kayaking in Tallinn is pretty safe. Possible danger in Tallinn Bay includes large waves made by big cruise ships and

speeding motorboats, and particularly difficult to manoeuvre are the cross-waves.

The journey passes by the Kalasadam, where the Saturday fish market is held, and heads towards Paljasaare. Along the way there are many interesting things to see. Especially fascinating are the historical structures: Linnhall, Patarei Prison, and the Seaplane Harbour. Our guide talks about the history of these landmarks and tells us of his own sea kayaking adventures as well.

For anyone that is interested in boats, you won’t be disappointed.

Passing by us are sailboats, jet skis, yachts, and large cruise ships.

Learn more about the historic ships at the Seaplane Harbour, as well as the legendary icebreaker Suur Tõll. Sitting in a small kayak alongside these vessels, you really get the sense of how big they are.

The most challenging part of the journey was paddling around the Paljassaar. Fortunately the wind was not that strong and the waves were small. However, for first timers it was still a challenge, and sweat was pouring! Very soon it became clear that kayaking requires, above all, knowledge of

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Katariina Wharf

Paljassaare PORT

Bay of Tallinn oo oooo

Paljasaare Port

Hundipea Port

Mine Port (Miinisadam)

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Noblessner Port

Peetri Port

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Seaplane Harbour

3 Patarei Prison

Our guide tells us about the history of the sights along the way.

oo oooo Linnahall Beach 1

Kalamaja Old Fish Harbour (Kalasadam)

good paddling technique. Josep told us that last summer he had paddled 40 kilometres in eight hours. According to him, Hiiumaa is the best place to go kayaking; there are many little islands and plenty of natural beauty to see.

At the Katariina wharf we took a break at the beach to stretch our tired limbs. Kayaking is the ideal sport for nature lovers because the Bay of Tallinn is full of marine life.

Even at the beginning of the trip at the Linnahall we saw a duck.

Terns swopped down to the water to catch fish.

2

From Paljassare there was a great view of the Tallinn skyline.

On the opposite shore you could see the sandy beach of Pirita, and the TV Tower in the forest behind it. Tallinn from the sea is still surprisingly bright and pleasant. The wooden houses of the Kalamaja district are visible from behind the massive Patarei Prison. Passing the old fishing wharf on the way back we saw people sitting out by the edge of the docks enjoying the evening sun.

■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

person

Scholarships and Grants Academic traditions in Estonia date back to 1632 when Academia Gustaviana, or Tartu University as it is known today was founded. The university provides scholarships and grants to the best students and researchers through the Tartu University Foundation.

The foundation is headed by Ruth Kotsar.

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: ANDRES TENNUS

What is the aim of the Foundation?

Ever since its founding in 1997, the foundation has supported students, teachers and researchers through scholarships and grants.

How is the foundation managed?

The foundation is managed by a 6-8 person board, with one representative appointed by the university board, one by the university senate and the rest are elected by supporters of the foundation.

Everyday, work is carried out by me, as managing director. Danske Kapital distributes the funds.

What kind of support do you provide?

Most recipients receive support within their field of study for travel expenses, tuition, and research fees within as well as outside of Estonia.

How do I know which scholarship suits my needs?

The scholarships are announced in the spring and in the fall through university channels, the dean’s offices and specific student lists. Current information is available on our website.

Please give some examples of the most successful scholarships?

Our most important scholarship, the Ernst Jaakson Scholarship, has provided academic research opportunities for PhD students at various universities and clinics abroad. Many of the scholars are at present recognised specialists and professors in Tartu as well as abroad and today’s students are in turn scholars of these previous candidates.

Others scholarships have provided financial assistance for students to carry out studies successfully.

Who are the donors?

Estonians living abroad played an important role in the first years; now, many local Estonians such as university teachers, researchers and businessmen have supported us.

Can anyone support the Foundation?

Most of our funds are open and anyone can support them provided that support fits with the ideas of the donor. At present we are in the process of setting up funds within various other fields in order to facilitate donations.

It is also possible to create your own scholarship within any field.

Donors do not have any obligations and all donations are taxexempt.

The Ernst Jaakson Scholarship has provided academic research opportunities at various universities and clinics abroad.

How has the work of the foundation changed over the years?

The number of scholarships and the amounts available has increased steadily. In recent years we have paid 100-120 thousand euros annually. The economic downturn has made it more difficult to find new donors and the low interest rates have diminished the yield of the funds. This in turn has forced us to unite some of the smaller funds.

The number of scholarships, financed directly by donors but administered by us, has increased however.

We are most grateful to our permanent donors who, in spite of the economic downturn, have continued to support us.

We are also glad to note that the Foundation is well known among students and researchers and that the number of applicants is on the rise. ■

Ruth Kotsar Managing Director Tartu University Foundation/ Tartu Ülikooli Sihtasutus www.ut.ee/sihtasutus

Ruth Kotsar is Managing Director of the Tartu University Foundation.

19

kuressaare

20

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

The Kuressaare Castle is the most well-preserved Episcopal castle in the Baltics.

Concerts are held in the Refectory.

A town full of history If you haven’t made it to the island of Saaremaa yet, here are a few reasons to visit.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP, KRISTI REIMETS

Kuressaare is the capital of Saaremaa, and the largest town on the island. Until 1918 it was called Arensburg after the fortress, and during the Soviet period it was called Kingissepa after the famous communist Viktor Kingissepa. In 1988 its historical name Kuressaare was restored.

This island town has seen its fair share of rulers including Denmark, Sweden, and Russia. The story starts in 1227, when the fortress was built as the stronghold for the bishop, and a small settlement was built around it. In 1559, the bishop Münchhausen sold his estate to the King of Denmark Frederik II, and in 1563, Arensburg received its town status.

In 1645 the Swedish era began, as did the modernization of the city. The town hall and weigh house were built, as well as streets

that are more or less in the same network today.

The 18th century saw the beginning of the Russian period, and in 1858 the first boat service from Riga began. In 1889, Muhu was connected by boat service to the mainland. During the Soviet period many of its residents were forced to move off the island, and Estonians needed special permission to visit Saaremaa.

Some Points of Interest: Probably the most famous landmark in Kuressaare is the Episcopal Castle. Built in the 13th century, this medieval castle is the best preserved in the Baltics. Today the castle is home to a museum that has many permanent exhibits discussing the history of Kuressaare and Estonian history in general. Inside the castle is a maze of hallways and small, narrow staircases leading you to the

watchtower where you can enjoy a snack at the café.

Kuressaare Episcopal Castle Lossihoov 1, Kuressaare www.saaremaamuuseum.ee Around the castle moat, you can take a quiet stroll through the park. Laid out in 1861, this park has over 80 species of tress and bushes. Admire the wooden Kuursaal or Spa Hall built in 1889 that now houses a restaurant. In summer you can also hire a boat to paddle around the moat from the Kuursaal (10/hr).

In the Old Town, be sure to visit the Kuressaare Town Hall, an excellent example of Nordic Baroque-style architecture and home to Estonia’s largest canvas ceiling painting. Across from the Town Hall, on the eastern side of the Keskväljak (Central Square) have a drink at the Old Weigh-house or

Vaekoda as its now called. Built in 1666 during the Swedish period, it is the only one of its kind in Estonia.

Kuressaare Town Hall Tallinna tn 2, Kuressaare Vaekoda Pub(Weigh-house) Tallinna tn 16, Kuressaare Hungry or thirsty?

There is no shortage of pubs in Kuresaare, but if you want something a little different, without spending a fortune visit Vinoteek Prelude just a few minutes from the main square towards the castle. Here you can enjoy a glass of wine, or two and a meal of light snack. The wine list is extensive and the staff are more than happy to help you choose a bottle.

Vinoteek Prelude Lossi 4, Kuressaare www.prelude.ee

Estonia’s most unique lake About 18km from Kuressaare along the Valjala-Kuressaare road is the 100m wide meteorite crater lake. The crater was formed by a meteorite about 2700 years ago and is one of the largest in Europe.

According to Scandinavian mythology, the area is known as “the sun’s grave.” It was said that the sun had chosen to be buried there and thus Estonians are considered to be blessed people. Close to the crater is also a museum, shop, and tavern. www.kaali.kylastuskeskus.ee ■

Location Kuressaare is located on the Island of Saaremaa off the west coast of Estonia.

It is about 220km from Tallinn. Ferry service from the mainland leaves from Virtsu and lands at Kuivastu on Muhu.

Muhu and Saaremaa are connected by the Väinatamm Bridge. www.kuressaare.ee

Getting there: Kuressaare is accessible by plane from Tallinn, ferry, yacht, and bus. http://www.flyavies.ee/ www.tuulelaevad.ee www.bussipilet.ee

The Kaali crator is one of the largest in Europe.

August Events: ■ 31.07 – 4.08 Kuressaare Chamber Music Days www.kammerfest.ee ■ 3.08 – 4.08 Kuressare Maritime Days www.merepaevad.ee ■ 17.08 & 25.08 Music Concert in Kaali Meteorite Crater www.kaali. kylastuskeskus.ee ■ 20.08 Day of the Restoration of the Independence of Estonia.

Concerts in Kuressaare Park www. kultuurivara.ee ■ 25.08 Night of Ancient Bonfires, Raiekivi, Kuressaare www.kuressaare. ee ■ 25.08 Traditional Culture Nights, Veski Trahter www.veskitrahter.ee ■ 25.08 Summer cinema in the Kuursaal www.kuressaare.ee

what's happening this&that/diverse

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

21

Opera and Theatre: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)

Russian Theatre (Vene teater)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee.

Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

Exhibitions & Museums:

Concerts: Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal)

FESTIVAL 2012

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I/J3

St. John Church (Jaani kirik)

4.8

20

Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J2

8.8

18

10.8

20

10.8

20

11.8

20

11.8

16

11.8 12.8

18 16

25.8 29.8

19 19

Organ Festival 2012: David Timm (Germany), Valga Jaani Church Stenbock Courtyard Music: Siim Aimla & Oceans 4, Tallinn, Stenbock House Courtyard Forgotten Dreams. HELIN- MARI ARDER TRIO, Kõpu Lighthouse Kontsert- vesper. Heiki Mätlik, Haapsalu, Maria- Magdaleena Õigeusu kiriku promenaad Born to be free. Tõnu Naissoo Hammond Group, Haapsalu Kuursaal Rises aroma of Myrtle, Gate Tower, Tallinn Üksnes Bach, Nõo Church English Masks, Italian madrigals, Gate Tower, Tallinn Asia Pacific United Orchestra Great voyage with flute and guitar, Kukruse Manor

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus) Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I1 15.06 -15.08 11 M-F SOMMARKYRKA/ Summer Church 05. 08. 12 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 12. 08. 12 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 15 Gottesdienst/German Service 19. 08. 12 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 26. 08. 12 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service 15 Gottesdienst/German Service 30. 08 17 VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival Young Talents Concert Ivi Ots (violin), Marike Kruup (violin), Marten Altrov (clarinet), Age Juurikas (piano) 31. 08 17 VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival Young Talents Concert Ivi Ots (violin), Marike Kruup (violin), Marten Altrov (clarinet), Age Juurikas (piano)

Tallinn City Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda Location: Old Town Map Code H1/2 9.8

19

16.8 25.8

19 19

27.8

19

28.8

19

29.8

19

Italiana, Urmas Põldma, Neeme Ots, Siim Selis Tobias String Quartet VIII TALLINN CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 2012 VIII TALLINN CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 2012 VIII TALLINN CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 2012 VIII TALLINN CHAMBER MUSIC

4.8 4.8 5.8 24.8

13.3 Organ Festival 2012: Christina Antoniadou (Greece) 21 Organ Festival 2012: Peter van Dijk, Edouardo Oganessian, Andres Uibo 20 Organ Festival 2012: Festival Final Concert 19 VIII TALLINN CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 2012

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja)

www.plmf.ee: 17.8

19

"Masters School", August Nightmusic, Pille Lill (soprano), Quartet Saxest

Rock Cafe Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee 9.8 10.8 24.8

20 17 21

Pärnu mnt. 19, Tallinn, www.guitarhunt.ee Every tuesday Salsa night Every wednesday Beerpong

Niguliste Church (Niguliste kirik)

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn)

16

Organ Festival 2012: Hortus Musicus

Väravatorn Lühike Jalg 9, Tallinn Karttakoodi I1

Nokia-konserttisali (Solarise Keskuses)

(Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Festivals: (http://www.concert.ee/festivalid) (http://www.festivals.ee/?s=1) 27.7-5.8

Estonia pst. 9, Tallinna, www.tallinnconcerthall.com

11.-20.8 14.-19.8

28.8

3.- 4.8 3.- 4.8 4.- 5.8 11.8

19

Georgian Dance Ensemble Erisioni.

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja) Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee

16.-18.8

29.8 19

17.8 23.-25.8

Great voyage with flute and guitar, Kukruse Manor

Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja) Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2

24-31.8 25.8

Tallinn International Organ Festival Birgitta Festival, Pirita klooster Avo Otsa Summer Trumpet Academy, Pirita Convent Leigo Lake Music, Leigo Pärnu Gildipäevad, Leigo Line Dance Festival, Pärnu Augusti Unetus, Pärnu Street Festival (music, dance, theatre) Monomaffia Theatre Festival, Pärnu Emajõe Festival, Pärnu Tallinn Towers Festival, (www. corelli.ee) Tallinn Chamber Music Festival (www.plmf.ee) Rock & Art Festival

Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik)

Other Events:

Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1

6.8 12.8 20.8

6.

30.8

16

4.8

20

Pärnu City Orchestra and Arvo Leibur

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF)

31.8

Love film Festival TARTUFF SEB Tartu Roller skating Marathon Restoration of Independence of Estonia Sofi Oksanen "Kui tuvid kadusid" Book Launch and Antti Jokisen "Puhastus" Film Premier.

Avant-garde Culture Festival Eclectica

True rock.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO PEKE ELORANTA

Released in March, the Dramamama VIP album is a good mix of old and traditional rock. VIP is full of rhythmic riffs, beautiful guitar solos, and a spirited and memorable chorus. Mikk Tammepõld’s warm and powerful singing voice really makes this album great. Song styles range from grunge to blues to rockabilly. The track Barry White has pleasing drums and juicy Hendrix-like guitar playing.

In the middle of the album, Dead Town Blues goes in a more bluesy direction.

A powerful guitar solo is quite natural in the song however. Not surprisingly, Dramamama qualifies in Estonia as a

KUMU Art Museum.

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66 Opening Hours: 11 -16

Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83 Location: Old Town Map Code G3 Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1 Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

Adamson-Erics Museum (Adamson Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38.

Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30.

Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

blues-rock band. The band can actually be seen more often at blues festivals, as well as on the Clazz nightclub stage in Tallinn.

The album has just enough to keep us hooked. The sound is solid and the album has not been over produced.

VIP is more genuine than the band's

Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00.

Location: Map Code A5 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Guitar Hunt

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie

4.8

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April Wed 11am– 8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss)

GreenFest City Edition GreenFest City Edition Billy–s Band (RUS)

Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee Location: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1

Niguliste 3, www.ekm.ee/niguliste

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

debut album, despite the diversity of style. Dramamama plays credible rock, which unfortunately one does often not hear in the music world in Estonia.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4 Opening Hours: January–June Wed 10–20, ThuSun 10–17. July–December Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss)

Who is Dramamama?

Mikk Tammepõld (vocals), Laur Joamets (guitar), Viljar Norman (bass) and Ott Adamson (drums).

Since the band's formation in 2008, they have released two albums: Dramamama (2009) and VIP (2012).

In August, the band can be seen at the Haapsalu Blues Festival.

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4 Location: Map Code A4 Opening Hours: January–April Wed 10–20, Thu– Sun 10–17. May–June Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012 Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39 Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design(Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00 Location: Old Town Map Code 1G Opening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08.

Location: Old Town Map Code D3 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00 Location: Map Code A2 Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18 Permanent exhibitions: Greater-Tallinn, Art Nouveau, Wooden Architecture, Functionalism, Power and the Square, Contemporary Architecture.

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77 Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18

22 22

traffic www in estonia traffic

TALLINN

Tartu

TT HH ET HBBEAALBLTATI LCI TCG UDUI EDI D™EE D ™™E AA I CG U IG C UU EG M G UU B SES TRT 2 0 11 212

Ferry Schedule Tallinn–Stockholm

Tallinn–St. Petersburg

Tallink departs everyday at 18.00

St. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

Helsinki–Tallinn

Таllinn-Helsinki

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

Temptrans AS

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–11.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

08.00–10.30

Viking XPRS

09.00–12.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

10.30–13.30

Nordlandia (Su)

13.00–16.30

Baltic Princess

11.30–14.00

Viking XPRS

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

15.00–16.30

Lindaline

(We–M)

16.00–19.15

Nordlandia (Su)

Ticket Counters Viru 6, Tallinn, tel. +372 6 480 777, open M-F 10–18, lunch 13–13.30. Nurga 1, Maardu, tel. +372 6 006 133, open M-F 8–19, lunch 13–14, Su open 10–15 Bus Station, Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, open M-Su 6.30–21 E-mail: temptrans@ temptrans.ee, www.temptrans. ee. Buses to Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus.

14.00–15.30

Lindaline

16.30–19.00

Viking XPRS (Su)

Ecolines

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

16.30–20.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.30–22.00

Baltic Princess

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

17.30–20.45

Nordlandia (Sa)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.00–20.30

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

20.00–22.30

Viking XPRS (Su)

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

20.15–23.30

Nordlandia (Su)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F–Su)

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F–Su)

Office Tartu mnt 68, Tallinn, tel +372 6 062 217, e-mail: ecolines@ecolines.ee. Open M-F 9–18. Bus Station Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, tel. +372 56 377 997, e-mail: ecolines.kassa@ecolines. ee. Open M-F 6.30–21. Buses to Europe and Russia, as well as many other destinations.

21.00–00.15

Nordlandia (M–F)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.30–00.00

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

00.30–06.40

Nordlandia (M)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

01.00–06.40

Nordlandia (Tu–F)

01.00–07.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

(We–M)

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

Useful Information No international driver’s license required.

It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0.

■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Copterline www.fast-class.com Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus Station

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Lastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21 Tel. +372 12 550 (Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

USEFUL VOCABULARY

Tallinn Train Station

The car has broken down . .

The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . .

There is a block in the road .

Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

Parking in Tallinn ■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.

ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission.

Live animals and plants as well as rare animal and plant species and so forth, also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are prohibited.

See also http://www.emta.ee/ index.php?id=1089 Customs Information Tel. +358 20 690 600

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock.

The 15 minute free parking does not apply in parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour and minute of purchase.

Shopping malls are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410.

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Toompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö Line Bookings +358 6 000 4300 (1.64 €/received call+local call cost).

Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000 Nordlandia Tallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Linda Line Bookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970, (1.64 €/received call+local call cost).

Tallinn Tel. +372 6 999 333. www.lindaliini.ee Merilin & Karolin Tallinn: Linnahall Port Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

Tallink

Parking Fees ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

Bookings everyday from 07–22, Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn info and bookings Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also available in travel agencies.

Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, Superstar Tallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

■ Airport and Port Transit Getting to the Port The distance between the Viru Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port.

It passes by the airport. The Mõigu Bus Line passes through the port. For more information and timetables http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.

Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Free Bus from the Port The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city.

The bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free bus that passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www. prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Centre and the airport is 4 km.

The no. 2 bus goes to the airport.

The exact schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

■ Tallinn Taxis ■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher.

■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The

cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a GFIK&?89FLI receipt then the passenger is not KiX`e JkXk`fe obliged to pay. If you feel that the I8EE8Dv< price was unreasonable then make 8?KI@ M@IL K<< E8IM8 DEK% note of the car registration number, FC; JHL8I< date of journey and the name of M`il _fk\cc KFNE the taxi company. <JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ GJK% C@@M8C8@8 GvIEL DEK%

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■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee.

Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel. +358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966 Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki Katajanokka

Finnair www.finnair.ee. Tallinn +372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309 Helsinki–Vantaa Airport +358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/ received call+local call cost)

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 2

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■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

School Breaks 17–25.3. Spring Break 6.6.–31.8. Summer Break 22.–30.10. Autumn Break 23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia With a mobile phone from Estonia to outside the country: + (country code)(phone number) When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the phone number. For example +372 6 666 666.

When calling within Estonia the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8, Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136 wireless networks listed.

In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are marked in green, meaning that they can be used free of charge.

The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network.

Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and residents free connections. These can be found on the website listed above.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Estonian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations.

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian, English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at

■ Currency Exchange

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21 How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20

24 24

TALLINN TALLINN

Tallinn and Estonia

Tartu Tartu

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Tallinn Sightseeing Foto: Andrei Chertkov

ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: about 1,350,000.

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.

Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian.

Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda).

Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn, tel. +372 57 503 650 E-mail: info@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee Open everyday May - September 10–19, Open October - April W - M 10–18, Closed Tuesday. The restaurant is open everyday May - September 10–23, October - April 11–23.

■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak).

This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top.

This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the

Tallinn TV Tower IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

Arena 3

Mere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2 www.protest.ee

Closed Sundays Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3 www.kokteilibaar.ee

Cathouse Open: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

Cellar Open: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von Überblingen Open: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinn www.uberclub.ee

Hollywood Closed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

Inferno Open: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3 www.amneziaclub.ee

Korter Roseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

Panoraam Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubpanoraam.ee

■ History Museums Bastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud).

Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town.

Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower.

Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum).

Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4.

Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room.

Estonian History Museum – Maarjamäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56.

Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum).

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

Parlament Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubparlament.ee

Partei Open: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinn www.parteiklubi.ee

Protest

Rock Café Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4 www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi Klubi Open: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4 www.sossi.ee

Teater Open: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

Vabank Open: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1 www.vabank.ee

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2 www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl Baar Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1 www.vonkrahl.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants The following establishments show football as well as other sports.

Clayhills, Pikk 13.

Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325.

Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63.

Mad Murphy's, Mündi 2.

Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4.

The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19.

Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum).

Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2.

Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases modern photography exhibits.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

■ Other Museums

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teaduskeskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. The wonders of energy and physics.

AHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA teaduskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem).

Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1.

Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1.

A museum about the world of pup-

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Open: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2 www.clubprive.ee

Butterfly Lounge

Tallinn Museums

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens.

4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Privé

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn B2 www.bonbon.ee

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation.

The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

Open: Thu–Su Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2 www.amigo.ee

Bonbon

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam).

Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

z A Brief History of Estonia

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

Cafe Amigo

Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2 www.arena3.ee

Tallinn Nightlife

KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park.

From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum).

Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art Museums Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum).

A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4.

Located next to Mikkeli Museum, displaying foreign art.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1.

Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display.

Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1.

Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia.

11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed.

1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia.

1343 St. George’s Night uprising.

Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success.

1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order.

1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).

1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.

1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000.

1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.

1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860).

In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility.

1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government.

1918 Germany occupies Estonia.

The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24.

Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces.

1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed.

1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament.

Päts rules by decree.

1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation.

1939 The German-Soviet NonAggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia.

1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union.

1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.

1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia.

Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight.

1948–25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000.

1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian.

1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa.

1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988.

1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow.

2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

City of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu.

Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

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