The Baltic Guide ENG June 2015 by The Baltic Guide

J U N E 2 0 15

The Best Summer Terraces Shopping in the Old Town Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On This Season Day Trip: Aegna Island

Summer Travel Special Nightlife: Where the Locals Go

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ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

Life is beautiful! Just a few steps from the Old Town you will find Solaris Center – the newest and most unique center of entertainment, shopping and culture. IN SOLARIS YOU WILL FIND: ̝ ¢ ¥ ¡ ¥ ˾ ¡ ˾ £ ̊ ˾ ¥˾ ¤ ́ ̝ ¡ ˾ ¡ ¸ £ ¢ £ ́ ̝ ¢ ¢ ̃ ¥́ ̝ ͈ ¡ ¤ £ ͌ ́ ̝ ͇ ¢ ́ ̝ ̙ ¡ ́ The most fashionable life-style and shopping centre in the very heart of Tallinn! Estonia pst 9, Tallinna

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5

Going Local

robably the best thing about visiting Estonia at this time of year is the increasing availability of local produce. Previously, Estonians would have finished the food they had preserved for winter, and planted last year’s potatoes for a new crop. While we can buy most of these things at the grocery store now, and in fact my neighbour says “why bother growing your own potatoes, it’s cheaper to buy them”, there is still nothing like the taste of fresh local produce. Here is a quick guide to Tallinn’s markets, where you can go and taste locally grown produce and of course try some pickles, sauerkraut, and honey. Visit the Central Market to see Tallinn’s largest market. It’s between the bus station and Stockmann, just off of Tartu mnt. In addition to the fresh vegetables and fruit, be sure to visit the Georgian bakery and try a hachapuri (it’s a cheese-stuffed pastry).

Nõmme Market is the city’s more fancy market. It was rebuilt after a fire a few years ago. Outside you will find small stalls selling everything from flowers to berries to veggies. There are also little houses selling meat and fish and dairy products as well. The Balti Jaam market at the train station is perhaps Tallinn’s most “colourful” market. It has both outdoor and indoor parts, and sells everything from clothing, shoes, clocks, and gravestones. But for the food portion be sure to pick up some honey and pickles. Apart from food shopping there is lots to see and do this month in Estonia. Turn to the middle of the paper for our summer travel special and check out our events listing for a look at what’s on this summer.

Contents 3 editorial 24-25 sightseeing

Happy travels! Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

restaurants 4-5 restaurants: Sevan C'est La Vie Summer Terraces in Tallinn Restaurant News

June Highlights 01 MIDSUMMER CELEBRATIONS

shopping

02 CHILLING OUT AMONG THE TREES The Schilling Festival fills the small town of Kilingi-Nõmme on July 4th with trendy party people. Peaking Lights (US), Polly (RUS), and Siinai (FIN) will perform in the Estonian forest capital.

03 STREET FOOD DELICACIES For the second time in a row, the Street Food Festival will take place at Telliskivi from June 13-14. More that 40 cafés, restaurants and food stands will take part in the festival, along with a dozen or so restaurants from abroad.

04 HARMONICA MUSIC IN PÄRNU The classical harmonica festival will take place in Pärnu from June 26-28. The programme includes competitions, concerts, jam sessions and a parade through the city. Harmonica players will be coming from all over the world.

05 A HANSEATIC ATMOSPHERE The annual International Hanseatic Days will be held in Viljandi from June 4-7. Eighty representatives from various hanseatic towns will arrive in the small Southern Estonian town. Over the four days, Viljandi’s courtyards, playgrounds, and beaches will hold a varied cultural programme. You can feel a party atmosphere in Pärnu as well for their annual Hanseatic Days from June 26-28.

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JUNE 2015

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club,

Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

6 nightlife 7-8 shopping 10-11 Summer Event Guide 23 beauty 26 Day trip: Aegna Island 27 getting around 28 transport 29-30 maps and information 31 outside of Tallinn

13–22 summer extra Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Cerli Juhkum tel +372 58 502 475

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Photo: Reigo Jõe

Midsummer is the most popular festival in Estonia. Midsummer celebrations are spent eating good food, enjoying good drinks and good company, often in the countryside. The high point of the celebration is bonfires and the making of midsummer incantations. St. John's Day is June 24th.

restaurants

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■ Trofé

■ Tio Leno

■ Gastropubi Haven

Ikea, Volvo, spotlessly clean cities, thoughtful crime drama... all things you think about when you think of Scandinavia. Trofé is out there to prove to visitors to Tallinn that food is just as great as any of those other things. The new restaurant has proved a hit with locals, its light woods and stone walls, along with interesting twists on wellknown recipes, merging traditional and modern.

There’s a new Mexican restaurant in town, and it’s gathering rave reviews from people who are bowled over by the spicy (but not too spicy, unless you ask for it) food, the chance to sit at the chef’s table, and the introduction to the Telliskivi area of a cuisine catching on in historically spiceaverse Estonia.

There’s a new informal gourmet dining experience in town, and it’s off the tourist trail, close to the home of Estonia’s greatest export, Skype, in Mustamäe. If you take a taxi out of the city centre you’ll find an everso-charming pub making food with genuine love that will satisfy you. Proof that if you build it, they will come.

Pikk 29 / Lai 24, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Telliskivi 60, Tallinn A1.

Mustamäe tee 116.

Outdoor Wining and Dining Paat

Leib Resto & Aed

Rootsu Rannabaar

where peace and tranquillity, as well as surprisingly fine dining for such a modest price, can be found. The Viimsi area also plays host every summer to the popular RootSu Rannabaar (Kesk Tee 20, Viimsi), where the ambiance is always set to ”chill”. Reggae music permeates the air, and you’d better bring your best swimming shorts or bikini, because you’ll want a dip in the Baltic before enjoying the fine barbeque food on offer. When there’s a live band on, there is nowhere better to be on a summer weekend. If you want to stay close to the port, give Sadama Suveterrass (Sadama 6/8, Tallinn 2A) a try. It’s not in a location that is going to win awards for style, but the joyful way you are greeted when you join the party makes it feel like an outdoor bar where everybody knows your name, and the people are always beautiful. One more for the Old Town – Schössle (Pühavaimu 13/15, Tallinn Old Town G2) will once again open their beautiful summer garden terrace. Enjoy live music and the favourite weekly POP UP Grill. What’s best is that it’s an “all-youcan-eat” style event every Thursday. Choose from an assortment of grilled meats and fresh salads. And if you haven’t had a chance to visit Leib Resto & Aed (Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town 3F) or their other restaurant Umami (Kadaka tee 141, Tallinn), located slightly outside of the city centre in Õismäe, both of their summer gardens are the perfect place to sit and enjoy a great meal with a fabulous wine selection. ■ Sadama Suveterass

NOA

Schlössle

Photo: Sadama Suveterrass

When you go to Tallinn in the summer, you don’t want to be cooped up inside a restaurant. You want to be able to enjoy your coffee or beer or wine outside, on a terrace. We look at the places where you can find great al fresco dining in Estonia’s capital. Terrace dining is an integral part of Tallinn culture, and it’s something tourists can enjoy just like the locals do. If you’re in Estonia on a budget, there are many places to recommend, all around Tallinn’s historic Old Town and beyond. Starting, as many people do, out on Freedom Square, Wabadus Cafe (Tallinn Old Town 1J) is still pretty similar to the old Cafe Moscow that used to sit comfortably opposite St. John’s Church. Though the food selection isn’t anything to write home about, it’s a prime spot for people-watching, and if you have something, or someone, to keep you occupied, you can sit happily for hours as people go by on one of Tallinn’s main thoroughfares. On the other side of the Old Town, if you like water pipes with your food, we recommend walking past the uber-flash Deja Vu bar, for Popular bar (Vana-Viru 6, Tallinn Old Town 3H), where the atmosphere is low-key, the music is uptempo and bright, and you can sit next to Vana-Viru street, one of the nicest, most historic streets in the Old Town. If you decide to have a bit of boiling water with your tobacco, we recommend banana and mint. Katuse Kohvik (Viru, Tallinn

Old Town 3H) is near to Popular, up on the fourth floor of a shopping centre across the street from the Viru Gates. It’s hidden away, but follow the signs and you’ll find it easily enough. The cafe, refurbished in 2014, is deceptively pricey, but is an enduring favourite. Take a seat outside on the balcony for one of the best overhead views of the Old Town, preferably with a Long Island Ice Tea in hand. For the more financially-flush, there is a wealth of choice. As interesting alternatives to the same-old Old-Town places, give Viimsi a try. There are two incredible restaurants, Paat (which translates as "boat", Rohuneeme Tee 53, Viimsi) and the world-beating NOA (Ranna Tee 3, Viimsi), which was designed from scratch with instructions from the owners to create a dream restaurant. The architects, together with knowledgeable, attentive staff and some of the finest cooks you will find, have managed this. Our tip is to enjoy their extraordinarily flavoursome cucumber soft drink on the purpose-built patio, as the sea laps at the edges of the restaurant, and boats and windsurfers make shapes on the water in the distance. The best hotels in town, such as the Telegraph Hotel, have terraces where you can enjoy award-winning food while catching up on your rays. The charms of the Telegraph, whose Tchaikovsky Restaurant has Bocuse d’Or competitor Vladislav Djatsuk as head chef, are well-known, though you really haven’t lived until you’ve eaten there. Across Mere Puiestee in the Rotermann quarter, you’ll find Platz (Roseni 7, Tallinn 2A), located on a courtyard

Photo: Schlössle

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

restaurants

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Photo: Vihula

■ What’s on at Vihula Manor this Summe

■ Cheese & Pepper

If you haven’t visited Vihula Manor, here are a few reasons to hire a car for a great weekend away. This marks the 205th anniversary of when Alxander von Schubert bought Vihula Manor. In honour of this occasion, a statue will be completed on June 10. The summer programme at Vihula has something for everyone. 23 June – Midsummer 26 June – Koit Toome, Jaak Joala 60th anniversary concert 28 June - Tõnis Mägi and Jarek Kasari concert „Aias“ 28 June – Classic Cars Day 30 June – Trio Romance

A pizzeria on the central main road of Pärnu Mnt, Cheese & Pepper has a sign that looks like it’s straight out of a Wild West theme park. Look past that and you’ll find a lively atmosphere, every topping under the sun, and flavoursome pasta dishes if you prefer. Comfort food from the gods.

Vihula, Lääne-Virumaa.

Pärnu Mnt 17, Tallinn B2.

Armenian Hospitality in the Heart of Tallinn You don’t have to wait for grilling season to enjoy some great meat!

armenian TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you’re not familiar with Armenian cuisine, here’s a quick lesson. Armenian cuisine consists of fresh salads and cheeses, lavash and grilled meat – especially lamb and pork. Lunchtime is bustling at Sevan,

where locals come to enjoy the daily special. The daily special is excellent value for money, because for 5 you can get a soup and a main dish. When we visited Sevan though, we opted for some dishes off the regular menu. For a starter, try a selection of appetisers, especially the cured meats and cheeses. This way you can try a little bit

of everything, an important tip when trying a new cuisine. For the main course, if you want to continue sharing, why not try one of the šašlõkk platters for two. Our favourites: the lamb chops, quail šašlõkk, and ljulja kebab served in lavash. Meat is grilled and remains tender and juicy. For sides, choose between oven potatoes, couscous with fried onions, rice, or grilled veggies.

Sevan just recently moved to Tallinn at the beginning of this year. Previously located outside of the city in Jõelähtme, Sevan has been serving Armeenian specialities for seven years. They also offer catering services. Service is friendly and professional, and portions are generous. You certainly won’t leave here hungry! ■

Location Sevan Restoran Ahtri 6a,, Tallinn A2-3. --------------------Starters: €3.40-6.50 Mains: €5,20-26 Sides: €1,50-3,00 Deserts: €2,80-4,50 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Such is Life New life for C’est La Vie

bistro TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The goal has been to stand out from the rest and this has been made possible with the vision of young Finnish chef Juuso Penttinen, who brings with him cooking experience from both Finland and Australia. Juuso’s interesting flavour combinations are well executed. The customer receives an amuse-bouche upon sitting down at the table. As an appetiser, the cold and fresh gazpacho is just what is anticipated. The sweet acidity of the tomato along with the watermelon and sorrel pro-

vides something light yet tasty at the same time. The warm broccoli soup, named ”green poison”, is topped with blue cheese ice cream. Soft elements will melt in your mouth, while the chive oil garnish ties it all together. The entercôte is comes with braised beef cheeks, served on a bed of cabbage. The Charon sauce completes the dish. The chef often changes the fish dish. This time it was a delicious sea bass. For dessert, the crème Catalan is paired with blood orange sorbet, Penttinen’s own invention. You can also taste a hint of basil, an unlikely combination. The yoghurt panna cotta is served with rhubarb soup and liquorice.

Chef Juuso Penttinen

Just like the name of the restaurant, such is life, such is the menu too. Exciting flavour combinations that come together well. ■

Location Restaurant & Cafe C’est La Vie, Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn Old Town I2.

--------------------Appetisers : €6 -€ 8 Main course s: €14-€1 6 Desserts: €5-€6 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

nightlife

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Radisson Sky Bar

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

A LOCAL NIGHT OUT Shvips Telliskivi 51i, Tallinn A1

This bar opened in January, with a retro feel reminiscent of the 1970s, and perfectly in keeping with the hipster vibe of the rejuvenated Kalamaja district in which it lies. The first thing that catches your eye is the classic sign, making Shvips feel like the kind of place David Bailey would enjoy, if he had taken one of the rare flights from the UK to Tallinn during his heyday. The feel inside is cosy, if a bit dark, with wood panelling the design language and long dark leather benches on which to recline as the night draws on. Service is bright and perky - the bar’s owners work inside there day-to-day, and you can tell that they invest a lot of thought into how customers perceive the place at first. They’ll advise you on wine from a point of view of real knowledge, and they’ll provide you with tasty snacks if wished. If you want to compare Shvips to somewhere, its closest analogue is probably Frank, the equally welcoming, cosy and period-fixated Parisien hideout on Sauna street in the Old Town. Both of these places are worth visiting and comparing.

Gay

Clayhills

G-punkt

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Drink Baar

X-baar

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Karaoke

Mad Murphy’s

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Nimeta Baar

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Protest

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn A2.

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town G1

Põrgu

Nightclubs

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

So, Vaba Lava is an Shvips ”it’ll-do” theatre, with architecture befitting a provincial playhouse in Leicester or Milton Keynes, not a modern European capital’s landmark. However this well-appointed facility has a saving grace, and it’s named after one of the most original and inventive minds in cinema. Foody Allen is that place. It’s so good, you wonder how the linear and unimaginative minds behind Vaba Lave thought about putting this purveyor of tasty street food and fine German white beer inside the foyer. But they have - and they have, as a result, created the world’s first theatre-foyer bar and cafe that one

The Highlander Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Butterfly Lounge Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Café Amigo

Cigar Lounges

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933

Club Baila

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

La Casa del Habano

Club Hollywood

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sigari Maja

Club Privé

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Estonian

would visit in spite of the theatre, not because of it. Open until late and serving food that generally doesn’t hit you hard in the pocket, including salads for the

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Karja Kelder

Loung Club Violet

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Roseni 9, Tallinn A2.

Kochi Ait Tavern

Teater

Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Kolmas Draakon

Vabank

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Venus

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn B3.

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Valli Baar

Late Night Dining

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3. Photo: Shvips

his month, we take a look at three places you should visit if you like chilling with a glass of wine, and then one final place that you must see if you want to cut some rug, and get a true idea of the real Estonia.

Bars & Pubs

Live Music

Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn B2.

Café Amigo

Loca

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933

Söögiplats

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Clazz

Taco Express

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn C4.

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

health-conscious and meat dishes for the rest of us, Foody Allen is a joy, and well worth making part of your evening out, whether you go to a performance or not.

Foody Allen Vaba Lava, Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn A1

Radisson Blu Sky Bar

Vaba Lava is talked-up as the crowning achievement of a new, thrusting Tallinn, a theatre for the 21st Century with versatility to boot. Although the seating can be moved around impressively within the auditorium, the new performance venue suffers the same fate as the Nordea Concert Hall: given the typical Estonian tendency not to be overly-enthusiastic, the venue needs to assist in generating that atmosphere through its layout. It is debatable how well Vaba Lava does this.

Rävala Puiestee 3, Tallinn B2

You might already have been told about the bar up on the top floor in Riga, Latvia’s capital. You might have gone up there, marvelled at the panoramic views, but been disappointed that you were hemmedin by glass, with no possibility of going outside and feeling the sun and the sky against your face. Tallinn, as in so many other ways, is different and better than Riga. When you go up to floor 24 of the Radisson, you’ll be greeted by a typical, low-lit, piano bar, but

also a fine selection of gourmet food for all palates (provided you have a few euros to spend), and, out of the door, a truly uninhibited view of Tallinn, as it is, the Baltic wind wreaking havoc on your delicate coiffure. Though the Radisson Blu Sky Bar is not for every pocket, if you only want to stand and admire the view, order a glass of wine from the wide selection on offer, and watch the world go by from up on the roof. There’s surely no finer way to spend the white nights. ■

✎ Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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shopping

Shopping in Tallinn TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Shop, dine, and go to the cinema at Solaris.

Kaubamaja is Estonia's department store.

Viru Keskus has added many new shops this year.

Tallinn doesn’t have a main shopping street like other capitals, but its many shopping malls, located throughout the city are convenient and easy to get to. Rocca al Mare, for example, located in the suburb with the same name has a free bus that leaves regularly from the A and D terminals at the port, stopping at Kristiine Shopping Centre as well. The newly renovated Ülemiste Shopping Centre, near Tallinn’s airport has just undergone a massive addition to include many more shops. Tallinn’s two department stores, the Estonian company Kaubamaja and the Finnish company Stockmann are both located in Tallinn’s city centre. Kaubamaja connects to Tallinn’s most central shopping centre, Viru Keskus. This year, Viru Keskus has added many new stores, and some stores have moved into larger locations to serve you better. ABC King, for

example, moved upstairs to the second floor to open an impressive flagship store. Solaris is one of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres and is located across from the Estonia Theatre. The Nordea Concert Hall (formerly Nokia) is attached to the back of Solaris. This is where some of the biggest acts come to play, when in Tallinn. The large bookstore Apollo is located on the second floor of Solaris, and offers a modest selection of English language books. The bookstore shares part of the second floor with a modern cinema. Rotermann Quarter is a grouping of old industrial buildings that have been renovated, with a few new buildings mixed in, and now stand in one of the most stylish areas of Tallinn. The area is filled with hip restaurants, trendy fashion shops, and more! When in Tallinn be sure to visit the Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi 60A) and the Baltika Quarter (Veerenni 24). The Telliskivi Loomelinnak is located in the bohemian area of

Kalamaja. This creative space has grown so much over the last two years, and it just keeps getting better. The Baltika Quarter houses a new pop-up fashion shop called Zero. Fashion designers that are just starting out can sell their clothes and accessories here. Also located in the Baltika Quarter is Moetänav, or Fashion Street. Moetänav brings together Estonia’s leading fashion brands into a very unique space. Run by the Baltika Group, this retailer has five lables under its brand that you will not only find in this store, but throughout Estonia. Look for Monton, Mosaic, Ivo Nikkolo, Baltman, Bastion. Don’t forget about Tallinn’s Old Town. It’s not all souvenir shops and restaurants. Top name designer brands, including Estonian designers can be found throughout. For shopping centre locations and details, please see the listing of shopping centres and markets beside this article.

■

Rotermann Quarter is one of the most stylish areas of Tallinn.

shopping

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FREYWILLE: Hommage Collection à Claude Monet, Iris – Bracelet 1065€, Ring 315€, Pendant 450€

■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. 2. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed ted in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 00 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Süda: Mulberry Bag – Mini Cara Delevingne bag 1190€

Vivian Vau: Shoes 155€

Fashion in the Old Town Shopping in Tallinn’s Old Town let’s you see many of the main sights. You’ll also be pleased to know that many shops offer Tax Free shopping and others often offer special discounts. TEXT JEVGNIA GORSKI, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Let’s start at the Viru Gates - Valli Street. At the Villeroy & Boch Boutique (Valli 4) you can find dishes and luxury textiles. Gerry Weber sells women’s clothing, as does Taifun. Now let’s go to Pärnu mantee. Estonia’s jewellery store Juveel (Pärnu mnt. 8), sells jewellery and silverware. Next - women’s clothing at MaxMara and Emporio Armani women’s and men’s clothing collections, shoes and accessories. Gant (Pärnu mnt. 10) sells men’s, men s, women’s, women s, and children’s clothes, accessories, and home textiles . FREYWILLE has both women’s and men’s jewellery: tie

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

clips, belts, silk scarves and handkerchiefs. A little further on there is women’s clothing at Max & Co. Just a few steps and we are at Suur-Karja Street. There, Burberry (Suur-Karja 20) has men’s and women’s clothing, footwear and accessories, as well as a large variety of bags. In the same building you’ll find D’Boiss, an exclusive shoe brand created in Tallinn. The shoes are handmade by Italian craftsmen. Opposite is Nude (Suur-Karja 23), which sells everything from Gucci to Ralph Lauren. There are many interesting streets in between. For example, Jacadi (Väike-Karja 12) is the only children’s store in the Old Town. childre It’s a Fr French brand with high quality, elegant ele and bright clothes, shoes, and toys. Or Alexander Boutique Donna (Müürivahe Bouti 24), wh which also sells many differbrands, mainly Italian. ent bra Near the Town Hall - Süda N Boutique (Suur-Karja 2) sells Bo Mulberry bags and accesMu sories. so ries. On the third floor of the th he same house you will find

Estonian designer Kristina Viirpalu’s showroom: here you can buy a gorgeous dress or have one sewn. Shiny shoes for women (sizes 34-45) can be found at Vivian Vau (Rataskaevu 2). Owner Vivian Unt imports beautiful Italian leather shoes. Near Freedom Square - Hugo Boss (Harju 6) sells men’s and women’s collections, as does MaxMara Weekend. On the same street is a Marina Rinaldi store with elegant Italian women’s clothing in sizes (40-62). Persona – Marina Rinaldi’s youth collection for women ages 20-35 in sizes 34-60. On Rüütli Street you will find the well-known Estonian designer Ülle Pohjanheimo’s fashion house (Rüütli 28/30). In the same house men’s clothes by Gowri, including suits and shoes, and all the accessories on could possibly need. You can buy them ready-made or order a tailored suit. ■

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. B3. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.

Persona: Dress 245€, Necklace Luisa 58€

Gowri: Ready made suit from 333€, Off the shelf tailored suit– 499€, Tailored, from 700€

Jacadi: Boys pullover 42€, Jeans 42€

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Find us from the Kochi Aidad (Superalko) building or the SadamarketSadamarketista!

• Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10, Tallinn, II floor ( D-terminal), tel + 372 6 801 665 • Sadamarket, Kai 5, Sadama 6, Tallinn ( A-terminal), GSM +372 552 5338 • info@kursused.ee • www.kursused.ee

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

Sizes 34-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-16

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

Tervetuloa eläintarhaan!

Tallinnan Eläintarha

Eläintarha on avoinna joka päivä 9–21 Lipunmyynti on avoinna joka päivä 9–19

Ehitajate tee 150 / Paldiski mnt. 145, Tallinna Puh. +372 6 943 300, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www.tallinnzoo.ee

Open: Sunday-Thursday 11-23, Friday-Saturday 11-02 Adress: Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town Telephone: +372 6 600 498 www.ancho.ee

events & a

What’s On This Summer in Estonia The white nights of summer mean that there is no shortage of things to do all over Estonia. Check out our summer event calendar to see what’s on this summer from June to August. CULTURAL EVENTS ■ 30 May – 6 June - Tallinn Old Town Days, Tallinn ■ 4-7 June – Tallinn Treff Festival, Tallinn ■ 4-7 June – XXXV International Hanseatic Days in Viljandi ■ 4-7 June – Narva Days, Narva ■ 6 June – Northern Livonia Festival, Häädemeeste ■ 22 June – 8th Estonian WifeCarrying Championships and Rapla County Tug-of-War Open, Reonda Village, Kassi-Võllimägi ■ 23 June – Avinurme Fair, Avinurme ■ 9-12 July – XVI Medieval Days, Tallinn ■ 10-12 July – Tallinn Maritime Days 2015 ■ 10-12 July – Kihnu Sea Party, Kihnu Island ■ 22 July – Saaremaa Opera Days, Kuressaare ■ 27 July – 21 August – Pärnu Bluusipäevad (Blues Festival), Pärnu ■ 31 July – 1 August – Bluesfest ”Augustibluus”, Haapsalu ■ 31 July – 1 August – Leigo Lake Music Festival, Lutike Village, Leigo Farm ■ 1 August – Seto Kingdom Day, Obinitsa Village, Meremäe County ■ 3-8 August – Tartu Love Film Festival TARTUFF, Tartu ■ 7-9 August – Historical Festival ”Narva Battle”, Narva ■ 7-8 August – Kuressaare Maritime Festival, Saaremaa ■ 28-30 August – White Lady Festival, Haapsalu

CONCERTS ■ 8-12 June – Tallinn Guitar Festival, Tallinn ■ 13-14 June – Nargen Festival, Haapsalu ■ 1-4 July – Õllesummer, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds ■ 1-5 July – 19th Haapsalu Early Music Festival, Haapsalu ■ 2-7 July – Juu Jääb Festival, Muhu Island ■ 3-4 July – Hard Rock Laager 2015, Vana Vigala

■ 4 July – Schilling Festival of Beautiful Music, Kilingi-Nõmme ■ 16-19 July – Festival Hiiu Folk, Kassari Village, Hiiumaa ■ 17-23 June – Suure-Jaani Music Festival, Suure-Jaani ■ 16-18 July – Mustjala Festival, Mustjala ■ 23-26 July – XXIII Viljandi Folk Music Festival, Viljandi ■ 6-16 August – Birgitta Festival, Pirita

FOOD EVENTS ■ 12-13 June – Grillfest – Good Food Festival, Pärnu ■ 13-14 June – Tallinn Street Food Festival, Telliskivi ■ 31-2 August – Kärdla Café Days, Kärdla, Hiiumaa ■ 8 August – 9th Kalevipoeg Fish & Water Festival, Tiheda Village, Kasepää ■ 15 August – Seto Food Day, Setomaa ■ 20 August – Pickle festival, Tahkuranna Village ■ 22-23 August – Lüübnitsa Onion & Fish Fair, Lüübnitsa Village ■ 29-30 August – Summer Into the Jar Harvest Festival, Narva

SPORTS EVENTS ■ 1 May – 85th Grand Race Around Lake Viljandi, Viljandi ■ 13 June – Narva Energy Run (Narva Energiajooks), Narva ■ 18-19 July – Yoga Festival, Haapsalu ■ 31 July – 2 August – TriSmile Otepää Triathlon 2015, Pühajärve, Otepää ■ 15 August – Night Run Estonia, Rakvere ■ 23 August – SEB Tartu Inline skating, 42/21 km, Tartu

CARS & BIKES ■ 10-12 July – American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu ■ 17-19 July – International Bike Fest “NARVA BIKE“, Narva ■ 17-19 July – auto24 Rally Estonia, Otepää ■ 1-2 August – Kiviõli Motocross Festival, Kiviõli

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased online at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

Flying over red ro

A helicopter ride over the fairytale city of Tallinn.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The helicopter rises slowly, like a butterfly. The rabbits in the grasslands flee as the helicopter flies over them. The yellow Robinson R44 helicopter is flown towards the Old Town. Tamur Bakhoff has three years of flying experience after finishing at the Estonian Aviation Academy. The first helicopter flight is always an experience. Soon one can see below familiar buildings: Oleviste Church and the row of towers of the Old Town, Pikk Hermann on Toompea and the government buildings. The summer greenery and evening sun create a fairytale landscape, and the medieval city looks even more beautiful from above. We turn towards Kadriorg. In the middle of the forest, the Song Festival Grounds appear and

Kadriorg Palace on the other side. At the port the Eckerö Line ship the Finlandia heads off towards Helsinki. Turning back towards the centre of town, one can see thirsty people on a skyscraper rooftop terrace. The helicopter lands gently next to Balloon Tallinn. A five-

minute flight will leave you with a very memorable image of the city. ■

Location Balloon Tallinn is close to the A-terminal. It is open every day from 8-20. Additional Information: www.balloontallinn.ee

attractions

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5

Sharp Turns and Fast Straights The Baltic Guide went to test the tracks and cars at Laitse Rally Park.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

ofs

Helicopter and Helium Balloon flights. ■ Helicopter flights began operations in Tallinn in May. A helicopter ride can be accessed at the A-Terminal beside Balloon Tallinn. The cost of the flight is €45 per person. The helicopter can carry three passengers. ■ Balloon Tallinn was awarded the 2014 tourism prize. Europe’s northernmost helium balloon rises 120 meters completely silently. With the balloon tethered to the ground, one can get magnificent views of Kalamaja and the Old Town. ■ Flights are affected by weather. If the balloon or helicopter are seen in the sky, then the weather is suitable for flying. Daily flight information is available on Facebook and Balloon Tallinn’s home page.

Laitse Rally Park has been open for a good twelve years now and in recent years they have started offering new services. The multifaceted children’s park was finished a couple of years ago. There is gokarting, seminar rooms, a small car track, an exhibition of old cars, and an auto repair shop, as well as a few log cabins with saunas. ”We want to focus on tourism, not so much on competition. The Brothers Üllar and Siimo Suvemaa, owners of the Laitse Rally Park. Siimo goal is to create a diversified autois well known on the rally tracks. motive theme park”, says rally park Especially fast is the E-serdirector Üllar Suvemaa. In a go-kart one can feel the The first car for testing is the ies BMW M3, so much so that real magic of speed. I have to BMW 318 rally car. Even for the Üllar compares it to parachut- admit our photographer was eight inexperienced driver the Beemer ing. minutes faster than I was. You can behaves impeccably, though you see your lap times after your finish do have to take the curves gent- Laitse has Estonia’s newest go- the course. ly. On straight roads it’s nice to kart track. Sharp bends and highWe visited the old car exhibit. speed up and really feel the race- speed straights reach 600 metres. The 1953 MG Midget PB is cercar engine’s performance. Ten cars can fit on the track at tainly the star of the show. The The tracks have gravel, curves, one time. gorgeous collection includes and hills. The 2.3 km long track is wide enough to drive with other cars so you can hold competitions with your friends. The brothers acknowledge that safety is the most important thing. Larger outings happen a few times a year and smaller outings more often. ”You can’t drink and drive. We are always performing breath tests, ”says Üllar.

A Rally Centre for the Whole Family ■ Laitse Rally Park covers 28 hectares including a children’s area, go-kart track, racetrack, car show and car repair shop. ■ Go-karting costs €13 (8 mins). Drive two laps with a BMW or Lada rally car for €60. For groups, the cost is €45. ■ Laitse is located along the Ääsmäe-Tallinn-Haapsalu highway, about 35 kilometers from Tallinn. For more information: www. laitserallypark.ee

40-50 cars. There is also a significant collection of BMWs outside. Old cars can also be rented for weddings, and they are also borrowed for film productions. The children’s area is the best in the country. Traffic lights, road signs and small houses create a true sense of power between pedal cars and pedal cars. The kids can also play in the giant sandbox in the middle of the town. Test your driving skills in the rally simulator. There are also other tracks and play areas. There is even a room for the family princesses. Laitse is 35km from the port. ■

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Estonian Summer 2015 Travel tips and the summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top cultural events

Northern Estonia

Transport

Western Estonia

Western Islands

Tartu

Southern Estonia

KOHTLA-JÄRVE

14 Northern Estonia

PALDISKI

NARVA TALLINN JÕHVi

RAKVERE

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5

MUSTVEE

TOP 5 Northern Estonia

01 NARVA-JÕESUU Narva-Jõesuu Spa, is located in one of the oldest resort-towns, Narva-Jõesuu. The town is situated on the far eastern coast of Estonia, a short drive from the historic border town of Narva. With a beach under the pine trees, and 39 different rehabilitation procedures, plus very affordable prices, it’s well worth taking a break in this secluded corner of Estonia.

02 PALDISKI A Trip into the hv vvistory of the City of Paldiski, a guided tour of the former military port, will show you the fascinating history of Paldiski and the Pakri Peninsula. Along the way, you’ll get to see Peter the Great’s fortress, a lighthouse, Paldiski Naval School, some truly enormous windmills, and the famous (and very scary) cliffs.

03 LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK Take a day-trip to Lahemaa National Park. Legendary peaceful fishing villages, huge forests, bogs and swamps. Stare in wonderment at Nõmmeveski waterfall, explore the quiet life in Võsu, and then head to Sagadi manor. The best thing? The trip will leave right from your hotel!

04 SILLAMÄE Sillamäe Town and Maritime Days. The former Soviet industrial town, featuring some beautiful examples of post-WW2 urban architecture, between 28 and 30 June showcases live performances from artists hailing from all over Estonia.

05 NAISSAAR Book early and take a fast speedboat to the deserted island of Naissaar. A military truck will take you on a round-trip of the island. For army buffs, there is an imperial-Russian artillery battery, there are stores sea mines and a factory for them and pretty little Maarja Church. The lighthouse on the northern side of the island offers breathtaking views of the wide-open Baltic.

Northern Estonia The northern part of Estonia, stretching from Paldiski on the north-western tip of the country to the capital, Tallinn, out to Narva on Estonia’s eastern border, is full of surprises and wonder. Because your journey into Estonia begins in Tallinn, it is easy to explore the north of the country, and travel distances are short. In Narva, walk along the Narva River promenade. Visit the Hermann Fortress, which houses a museum and hosts many outdoor events in summer. Avinurme hosts the most famous summer event in Estonia on Midsummer’s Eve, 23 June, which includes a big bonfire and barrel market. And finally, don’t forget to try a lamprey, a delicacy of the Narva River. The annual Lamprey Festival takes place on 26 September in Narva-Jõesuu. ■

How to get there? Trains leave twice daily to Jõhvi and Narva. Travel time is about 2.5 hours to Narva and a ticket costs €10.90. Buses leave almost halfhourly to Narva, stopping in Rakvere and Jõhvi. For a full timetable visit: www.tpilet.ee

Travel Distances: ■ ■ ■ ■

Tallinn - Jõhvi 165 km Tallinn-Narva 211 km Tallinn-Mustvee 173 km Narva-Mustvee 119 km

Largest cities (population): ■ Tallinn: 429,829 ■ Narva: 62,068 ■ Kohtla-Järve: 38,197 ■ Sillamäe: 14,586 ■ Rakvere: 16,338 Additional information: www.northestonia.eu

transport

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5

By road or by train TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The majority of tourists travel to Tallinn, but Estonia is so small that you can drive across it in a matter of hours. Drivers in Estonia need to remember two things: there is zero tolerance for drunk driving, meaning that your blood alcohol level must be at zero and speeding and parking tickets must be paid. The biggest change in Tallinn this year, as far as traffic goes, is that busses from the city centre to the end stops will replace the

trams. New trams will replace the old trams throughout the year There will also be changes to the tram lines in the future. A direct connection from the port to the airport should be completed by the end of next year. The orange “carrot trains” have now replaced Estonia’s trains. These new trains are comfortable, tickets are relatively cheap, but unfortunately there is no restaurant car. For example, a trip between Estonia’s largest cities, Tallinn and Tartu, lasts about two hours and a ticket costs about 10. You can even take your

Estonia's new orange trains

bike on the train. For more information about trains and schedules visit: www.elron.ee A direct trip by bus costs about the same. Bus travel in Estonia is very convenient, with direct lines running regularly between Estonia’s major cities and towns. If you want to travel in style, look for tickets aboard Lux Express. On some of their busses, if you pay for a business class ticket, you can get your own single seat. For more information and schedules visit: www.tpilet.ee ■

Tallinn’s new bus station

Useful words English Estonian ticket

pilet

departing from

lähtepeatus

arriving to

sihtpeatus

platform

platvorm

departure

väljumine

arrival

saabumine

transfer

ümberistumine

duration

sõidu kestvus

Taxis

Download the Taxify app for a convenient way to find the right taxi.

We have been getting a lot of feedback from our readers saying that they are paying more than normal for their taxis. Tourists don’t always remember, or they don’t know that in Estonia the taxi companies have the right to set their own fares. This means that some companies

can charge five times more than their competitors. One of the easiest ways to get a taxi is to download the Taxify app on your smartphone. It searches for all nearby taxis, meaning that you can compare fares right on your phone. ■

Important Before you get in a taxi: Look for the fare on the back window. A taxi must take the most direct route to the destination. If you are unsure, travel only with well-known taxi companies. If you did not receive a printed receipt, you don’t need to pay for the ride.

1. 2. 3. 4.

16 Western Estonia

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5

TOP 5 Haapsalu

Western Estonia

01 SUMMER FESTIVALS Haapsalu is bustling in summer with some great festivals and events like Open Doors Day, Italian Wine Festival, the yoga festival, Early Music and String Instruments Festival, August Blues, and finally the White Lady Festival.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS

Love the outdoors?

Estonia’s west has everything a holidaymaker could want, from the chilled, hurry-free atmosphere of historic Haapsalu down to the summer capital and party central, Pärnu. If you want a stress-free lifestyle, and a chance to unplug and forget all your troubles, this is the region for you. See the Estonia that Estonians escape to in the summer, and experience the real way to enjoy the Baltic heat.

■ Marvel at the flight of white-tailed eagles, grey herons, geese, swans, ducks, black terns, and marsh harriers in Estonia’s birdwatching capital, Matsalu National Park. ■ Take the Kilingi-Nõmme Hiking Trail, in one of the southernmost parts of the country, on a woodland path with 12 lookout towers. ■ Go hiking or biking or walking through lovely Soomaa National Park, near Pärnu. ■

How to get there

02 EPISCOPAL CASTLE This castle dates back to the 1200s and is a symbol of Haapsalu. The Episcopal Castle is also home to Estonia’s most famous ghost, the White Lady.

A bus leaves for Pärnu almost every hour from Tallinn. If you decide to go by car, driving time is approximately two hours. The train journey from Tallinn to Pärnu takes about 2.5 hours. Haapsalu is located about 100 km west of Tallinn. Unfortunately you can’t take the train to Haapsalu, but a bus leaves almost hourly from Tallinn. Bus: www.tpilet.ee Train: www.elron.ee More information: www.visitparnu.com www.visithaapsalu.com

Travel Distances:

TOP 5 Pärnu

01 THE BEACH The warm and shallows waters and the stunning sandy beach make this a wonderful place for families with children. It’s no wonder Estonians keep coming back year after year.

■ Tallinn- Pärnu 135 km ■ Tallinn-Haapsalu 100 km

02 THE IDYLLIC COUNTRYSIDE

Largest cities ■ Haapsalu: 11,000 ■ Lihula: 2500 ■ Pärnu 43,000

Pärnu's surrounding countryside is well worth a visit. A beach road follows the coastline all the way to the Latvian border, with many interesting stops along the way.

03 BICYCLE TOURS There is no shortage of places to hire a bike in Pärnu. The city is covered with new bike paths, making getting around a breeze and a great way to see the summer capital's sights.

03 RESORT HALL The Resort Hall or Kuursaal, as it’s known in Estonian, is another important landmark in Haapsalu. The beautiful wooden structure dates back to the end of the 19th century and is the only one of its kind to have survived in its original form.

04 SANDY BEACHES Relax in the sunshine on one of north-western Estonia’s most beautiful beaches.

05 A STEAMBOAT JOURNEY Take a trip on the steamboat “Kallis Mari” (Sweet Mary). The boat seats up to ten people and leaves the port hourly. Bookings are required: info@salm.ee

04 MUD BATHS Estonians and visitors alike have been flocking to the healing mud baths in Pärnu for years. Visit the newly renovated Hedon Spa, located in the historic mud baths building for a day of relaxation.

05 THE NEED FOR SPEED Love motorsport? Then look no further than Auto24Ring, a race track where you can try your hand at driving, or wait for one of the many events taking place this summer.

Throughout the Centuries! Haapsalu and Läänemaa Museums

KKonse Motel M & CCaravan Parkk Located in Pärnu's city centre, on

Haapsalu Town Hall

Railway and Communications Museum

Kooli 2, Haapsalu Tel. +372 473 7065 info@salm.ee; www.salm.ee

Raudtee 2, Haapsalu Tel. +372 4734574 raudtee@jaam.ee; ww.jaam.ee

“Peetrike” Tourist Train Tel. +372 5396 1396

Ilon’s Wonderland

Haapsalu Episcopal Castle

Kooli 5, Haapsalu Tel. +372 5836 2806 www.ilon.ee

Lossiplats 3, Haapsalu Tel. +372 518 4664 info@haapsalulinnus.ee www.haapsalulinnus.ee

Subscribe to The Baltic Guide! Get to know Estonia. Subscribe to The Baltic Guide for 1 year (12 issues) at a special price. st things what The beto see and do in re e wh Estonia when

ENGLISH EDITION

JANUAR

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Shopping at the Port

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“Kallis Mari” Steam Ship

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Tel. +372 473 4574; raudtee@jaam.ee

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Ants Laikmaa Home Museum Kadarpiku village, Lääne-Nigula Parish Tel. +372 472 9756 • www.salm.ee

t "DDPNNPEBUJPO GPS JO UXP UISFF PS GPVS QFSTPO SPPNT the banks of the Pärnu River Suur-Jõe 44a, Pärnu. t 'BNJMZ SPPNT XJUI LJUDIFOFUUF t 'FODFE QBSLJOH MPU Tel +372 53 435 092, t DBSBWBO TQBDFT XJUI QPXFS TVQQMZ TFQBSBUF TIPXFST Fax +372 44 55 070, BOE 8$ t 4BVOB XJUI öSFQMBDF t #JDZDMF SFOUBM e-mail:info@konse.ee www.konse.ee

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19 Western Estonia's Islands

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5 Vormsi KÄRDLA Hiiumaa Muhu Saaremaa

PÄRNU

KURESSAARE Kihnu Ruhnu

TOP 5 Western Estonia's Islands 01 HIIUMAA Cycle around Hiiumaa, following in the bike tracks of American author Justin Petrone, who wrote the hugely-successful ”My Estonia” series of books, and described stopping by the side of a deserted road to pick berries in the middle of summer.

02 KÄRDLA Visit Kärdla, the capital with character, Hiiumaa’s biggest town and a picturesque port that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Kärdla is also known for its Café Days, which takes place on the first week of August. Local residents open up their yards to serve homemade pastries, food, and drinks.

The Islands of Estonia TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS

The true otherworldly magic in Estonia happens on the islands, and with more than 1500 islands in this seafaring nation, it’s likely that you’ll find a bit of that fairy dust at some point in your travels.

How to Get There

03 KURESSAARE CASTLE Stroll around the vast Kuressaare Castle, which dominates the Saaremaa capital and provides a link to the tranquil island’s history of conflict.

You can fly from Tallinn to Kuressaare or Kärdla, or for the more budget-conscious, bus services from Tallinn are remarkably cheap, and include ferry transfer. Bus information and schedules: www.tpilet.ee Flight information: www.lendame.ee Saaremaa & Muhu Ferries depart from Virtsu to Kuivastu, or from the mainland to Muhu. Then from Muhu, a causeway connects the island to Saaremaa. The journey lasts about 30 minutes. Hiiumaa A ferry service from the Rohuküla port to Heltermaa connects Hiiumaa to the mainland. The journey lasts about 90 minutes. You can also get to Hiiumaa via Saaremaa, between Triigi and Sõru. This trip last about 75 minutes. Ticket information and schedules available at www.tuulelaevad.ee

Travel Distances: ■ Tallinn- Virtsu 135 km ■ Tallinn- Rohuküla 110 km ■ Tallinn- Munalaiu 165 km

For more information on accommodation and tourism visit: www.saaremaa.ee www.muhu.ee www.hiiumaa.ee www.vormsi.ee www.kihnu.ee www.ruhnu.ee

04 KIHNU & RUHNU Visit Kihnu and Ruhnu, two tiny islands off the western coast of Estonia. Kihnu is like a cultural time capsule, where the women of the island can be seen wearing the traditional colourful skirts. Ruhnu is smaller than Kihnu and its highlight is a wooden church that dates back to 1644.

05 VORMSI Retrace the Top Gear team’s tracks and head for Vormsi. Ok, you can’t take the ice road in summer, but you can see enchanted nature – and yes, Jeremy, you CAN take your car, on the ferry.

Kaali Crater Lake on Saaremaa

The largest islands are Saaremaa (literally ”Islandland”), Hiiumaa, Muhu and Võrmsi. But don’t forget about the tiny islands of Kihnu and Ruhnu either. It’s not fair to say that if you’ve seen one island, you’ve seen them all. Each one is, in its own way unique, with its own culture and traditions. ■ The Vormsi ferry departs twice daily from the Rohuküla and Sviby ports. The “Liisi” ferry from Pärnu to Kihnu takes about two and a half hours. The ferry from the Munalaiu port will get you to Kihnu in about an hour. Ruhnu can be accessed from the Munalaiu port and the Roomasaare port on Saaremaa a few times a week. Ticket information and schedules can be found at www.veeteed.com

Western Estonia’s Largest Islands ■ Saaremaa: Area 2,670 km 2, approximate population 40,000 ■ Hiiumaa: Area 1,000 km 2, approximate population 10,000 ■ Muhu: Area 200 km 2, approximate population less than 2 000 ■ Vormsi: Area 93 km 2, approximate population 400 ■ Kihnu: Area 17 km 2, approximate population 500 ■ Ruhnu: Area 11 km 2, approximate population less than 100

20 Tartu

TALLINN

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TARTU

TOP 5 Tartu

One of Estonia’s most beautiful summer destinations TEXT LAURA KOISVISTO, PHOTOS EAS

01 SUPILINN This neighbourhood, made up mainly of wooden houses almost makes you feel like you’re in the country. Wander through the streets of this quiet part of town for a nice walk.

02 TARTU’S OLD OBSERVATORY This UNESCO protected observatory celebrated its 200th anniversary in 2011. Visit this fascinating museum for only €3.

03 TARTU CATHEDRAL If you’re not scared of heights, then climb the old cathedral’s tower, located on Toomemägi hill. Bring your camera because the view is stunning.

AHHAA Science Centre

04 TASKU SHOPPING CENTRE Find brand name clothes and cosy cafés at Tasku Shopping Centre. It’s just a quick walk from the city centre and also houses a cinema.

05 TARTU UNIVERSITY TREASURY Do you know what the original monument of Swedish King Gustavus Adolphus looks like? Visit the Tartu University Treasury for look at some real rarities. Guided visits are also available.

Estonia’s Cultural Capital Tartu is trip worth taking with the whole family. Picturesque Tartu offers visitors a quick vacation, as well as a romantic weekend. A trip to Tartu won’t break the bank either, and its relatively small size means that the best way to see it is by foot. Walk along the Emajõgi River to enjoy beautiful flowers, or escape the city centre with a walk through Toomemägi Park. Do you feel like getting your groove on? Tartu has no shortage of nightclubs or bars. For example, Atlantis nightclub offers a great night out for those looking for a party. Or just walk through the city centre and you’ll no doubt find a great bar for a quieter night out. Estonia is known for its excellent desserts and Tartu is no exception. The Town Hall Square is filled with café patios in summertime, where you can taste some of the best cakes. In the centre of the square you will see one of Tartu’s

Travel Distances: ■ Tallinna–Tartto 185 km Population: ■ Approximately 104,000

well-known sights: the kissing students statue in the fountain. History buffs should mark the weekend of July 10-12 in their calendars, as it is the start of Tartu’s Hanseatic Days. Visitors can enjoy a Hanseatic Market, as well as see many different concerts and exhibits. The medieval market sells some great food, some of which you can even bring home as a souvenir. Be sure to book your hotel early for this weekend. ■

How to get there Tartu is located about 185 km from Tallinn. It is accessible by bus or train. For full ticket information and schedules visit: www.tpilet.com (bus) or www.elron.ee (train).

Read articles online:

Italian

Restaurant and Pizzeria Open M-Th 11.30-23.00 F,Sa11.30-24.00, Su 12.00-23.00

Authentic Italian food prepared by our Italian chefs. - Our pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven. - Delicious pasta that melts in your mouth. - Located in the heart of Tartu. - A cosy summer terrace. - WiFi Kompanii 10, Tartu Tel. +372 7407 545 www.ladolcevita.ee

Did you know that Estonia has

245 museums? Read The Baltic Guide to learn more about Estonia.

www.balticguide.ee www.balticguide.ee

The biggest shopping and leisure centre in South Estonia

Free shuttle bus from the city straight to LĂľunakeskus and back!

More than 160 shops, ice rink, adventure park, 4D cinema, cafes and restaurants, mini zoo and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s playground

Ringtee 75, 50501 Tartu, Open 10 AM to 9 PM, www.lounakeskus.com

22 Southern Estonia

TALLINN

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VILJANDI PÕLVA

VÄRSKA VALGA

TOP 5 Southern Estonia

Southern Estonia Travel Distances:

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS

01 VILJANDI Go to Viljandi Folk Festival (23-26 July), a weekend event that attracts traditional musicians from all over the world to a little town in south Estonia.

02 MUNAMÄGI Go hillwalking up Suur Münamägi and Vaike Münamägi, Estonia’s highest hills, offering Instagram-worthy views of the countryside for miles around.

03 TAEVASKOJA Go forest-trekking in Taevaskoja, a tiny and unspoilt village surrounded by a 150 year-old coniferous forest.

04 TRADITIONAL ESTONIAN MUSIC Visit the Estonian Traditional Music Centre for a look at Estonia's greatest emerging musical talents, and to better understand the history of this musical form of which Estonians are so proud.

05 ADVENTURE PARKS Zip-lining, climbing, and catapulting are all thrills to be experienced at some of Southern Estonia’s adventure parks, like the Otepää Adventure Park, the Tartu Adventure Park, or the Valma Adeventure Park on the shore of Lake Võrtsjärv.

VÕRU

It is often said that the nicest people in Estonia come from the south. To find out if this is true, set co-ordinates due south and head for the true soul of the country. From small, friendly and independentminded towns through to the hilliest part of a flat country, there is everything you could need to loosen up. Valgamaa, Põlvamaa, and Võrumaa are three counties in Southern Estonia, where Estonia borders Russia and Latvia. The population of these three counties is a little under 100,000. Distances are short and there is a great deal to see! The country’s largest trees, tallest ‘mountains’ and deepest lakes, are just some of the reasons to visit this area and its people. Here you will also hear different dialects of the Estonian language, including that of the Seto people. The Seto people celebrate their king on the first Saturday in August, along with some of the best folk music and beer. This year, Kingdom Day will be celebrated at Obinitsa. In Võru, the folklore festival will take place from 8-12 July, which will include dancers, singers, and musicians from all over Estonia.

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Tallinn- Viljandi 159 km Tallinn- Võru 253 km Tallinn- Valga 267 km Viljandi- Valga 88 km Viljandi- Võru 124 km Tallinn- Põlva 231 km Võru- Põlva 25 km

For more information visit: www.visitsetomaa.ee www.southestonia.ee

Many rivers flow through this area, and in some places, around high sand cliffs that the rivers have dug out naturally over time. One of the most impressive is Taevaskoja on Ahja River, where at its peak, the sandy cliff reaches 20 metres. Even taller is the Härma wall beside the Piusa River in Meremäe County. ■

How to get there? The train from Tartu to Põlva and Taevaskoja leaves twice daily and takes about an hour to get to Valga. Take the bus from Tallinn to Võru in about four hours. The trip from Tallinn to Valga takes about the same amount of time. There are dozens of connections. For a full train schedule visit: www.elron.ee. For a full bus schedule visit: www.tpilet.ee

beauty

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British sports shops in Norde Centrum

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

In March, near the D-terminal, a new sports shop “Sports Direct” was opened at the Norde Centrum. It is a British sporting goods and clothing store that has an online shop as well. It is well-known for the large selection of goods

at reasonable prices. Their other location is located in the Ülemiste shopping center. ■

Location Sports Direct Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7, Tallinn A3.

Style and Protection A good pair of sunglasses is just as important as a good pair of shoes. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Most of us don’t really think about sunglasses too much. We’re willing to pay a lot of money for a good coat or a good pair of shoes, because these are more than just accessories, they are practical. “It’s time we start thinking about our sunglasses in the same way”, says Kersti Tuulik. “A good pair of sunglasses will last many years, and most importantly, protect your eyes”. Kersti is not wrong. What many of us don’t realise is that if we buy a cheap pair of sunglasses, like the ones you find at the petrol station or chemist, 100 UV protection does not always mean 100. This is due to the quality of the plastic. “Glasses that block 100 of all UVA and UVB rays are measured between 380-400 nanometres. The cheap sunglasses you find at the petrol station don’t have this protection”. Another common misconception is that sunglasses bought from the optical store can be expensive. You can of course spend a few hundred euros on designer frames, but there are cheaper alternatives that offer the same quality. At NormanOptika, for example, last year’s frames are all heavily discounted. “Our sunglasses start at 45, and are affordable for most of our customers”, says Kersti. Another benefit to high quality sunglasses is that they can be repaired and adjusted, just like one would repair shoes. The high quality material of the glasses allows for this. Prescription lenses are available for sunglasses too, as not everyone can wear contact lenses. Prescription sun lenses start at around 50. TransitionsTM -lenses that darken according to UV-exposure – are also a very popular sunglasses alternative. Different coloured sunglass lenses, which are particularly important for people involved in different sports. For example, grey lenses are recommended for sailing, copper, yellow, or brown

Where to buy sunglasses in Tallinn: Norman-Optika Rävala pst 6, Tallinn B2 Instrumentaarium Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4, Tallinn A2 Stock Optika Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn B3 Eesti Optik Tartu mnt 45, Tallinn B3

Säästu Optika Postimaja Pereoptika, Narva mnt 1, Tallinn A2 Tallinn Optika Tallinn mnt 6, Tallinn B2

are recommended for driving, and yellow is good for skiing. Going to a professional eyeglass store you will be guaranteed good service. The staff at Norman

Optika are optometrists, it’s their job to help you find the right pair of sunglasses; so don’t be afraid to ask for help. ■

sightseeing

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

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Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1.

KGB Museum A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use of Tallinn ccity transportation, including the hop-on, hop-off bus (don’t forget to swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www.tallinncard.ee

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sightseeing

25 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built

Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla)

Kadriorg

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at: St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2014/2015 School Holidays Christmas break 20 December 2014- 4 January 2015 Spring Break 14-22 March 2015 Summer Break 4 June - 31 August 2015

museum

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This year, Finnish language students at Tallinn University and The Baltic Guide have teamed up. We will be publishing a series of student written articles about their favourite places in Estonia.

Aegna This nearby island fascinates the curious from the very first visit. TEXT LAURI LEIS, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, KATRIN RÄTTE

The island is located in the Bay of Tallinn and can be reached in two ways: with the small ship Vesta, which leaves from the Fish Market (Kalaturg), or by kayak from Rohuneeme. From there, the island is only one and a half kilometres. From Tallinn’s Linnahall, the 14 km trip with the Vesta lasts about one hour. The boat starts running from mid-May and finishes for the year at the end of October. Naissaar is to the left of Aegna, and Kräsuli Island falls between Aegna and the mainland. On Aegna you will find yourself in another world. Aegna amazes the visitor with its diverse nature. It continues to change and the forested grows year after year. If you have two to

three hours, then why not walk around the island. Most just visit the island to admire the scenery. The island’s coastline stretches for about ten kilometres, including two different sandy beaches. Although the island is largely unspoi-

led, its human presence is visible by marked walking trails, picnic areas and information boards. Aegna has three marked hiking trails, the longest of which is 6.5 km. Lemmiku Cape stretches along the eastern part of the island. At the neck of the cape, close to the old cemetery there are several boulders. If you take a walk around the island you will see a pair of swans, and if you’re lucky, a whitetailed eagle. Because the island is also home to mosquitos and ticks, be sure to wear long-sleeved shirts and check carefully for ticks at the end of your hike. If you want to spend the night on the island, then keep in mind that camping is only allowed in designated areas. Aegna has been home for many people. Many armies have also occupied it. You will find the ruins of the

artillery batteries and garrisons built in 1914. There are currently two people that live year round on the island, who take care of its pristine forests. In summer, there are more inhabitants on the island and some of them even offer reasonably priced accommodation. The island does not have a store, and food and drinks must be brought from the mainland.

A well with potable water can be found close to the port. Aegna is just the right size to visit for a day. Since I am one of those who have been going to Aegna for years, I recommend staying there for a longer time. This way, you can truly experience the island. The schedule for the Vesta boat can be found at the Kihnu Veeteed website: www.veeteed.com. ■

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street. The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. Tu-Su 10.30 am - 6 pm New! CERAMICS COLLECTION open Tu-Su 10.30-17.30 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at >ƺhiŬe ũalŕ ϵ a DANISH KING’S GARDEN ǆhiďiƟon open Tu-Sa 11 am - 6 pm, C & Tu-Sa 12 am - ϵ pm

TALLINN ■ Museums

PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

CHILDREN’S MUSEUM MIIAMILLA in Kalamaja and Kadriorg Kalamaja, at 16, Kotzebue Street. Museum of childhood with a collecƟon of children’s toys and playthings

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Kadriorg, at 21, Koidula Street. Colorful theme museum for children tƌŝƚĞƌ͛Ɛ ŵƵƐĞƵŵƐ ǁŝƚŚ ĂƵƚŚĞŶƟĐ ŝŶƚĞƌŝŽƌƐ͗ A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline as www.linnamuuseum.ee

Insight into life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1. www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum. ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJUUNNEE 22001155

27 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Nisu

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

Lille Looga Mustjõe

Ülase

Hipodroom

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

Taksopark Koskla

VEERENNI

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

KADRIORG 1, 3

KADRIORG

Paberi Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja

Majaka 2, 4

Pae Bus Station

Majaka põik

Vineeri

Tihase

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli

VäikePaala

Marja

Sinilille

Tedre

Karikakra

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Õismäe PR

KRISTIINE

Sinilille

VäikeÕismäe

Hobujaama

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

UUS-MAAILM

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

J. Poska Mere pst

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

From the driver

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Balti jaam Ädala

Humala

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Löwenruh Linnu tee

Aiandi

Nurmenuku

TallinnVäike

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

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Tondi

3, 4

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Airport

Due to construction, tram lines 2 and 4 will be out of service until autumn. Bus #42 will run between Vesse – A. Laikmaa in the meantime.

JÄRVE

Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

6-118-000

11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please..................................................... palun thank you ............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me ............................................ vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning .................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening ..................................... tere õhtust good night ........................................... head ööd goodbye ............................................... nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip................................. head reisi bon appetite ....................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJUUNNEE 22001155

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus:

■ Phone calls

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,75 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ■ Bt air: i

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,30 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 5

Saku Manor

Road trip Here is a short list of some of the restored manor houses in Estonia worth visiting, with some, only a short drive from Tallinn. ■ Purtse Castle Purtse Village, Lüganuse Parish, Ida-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 140 km Est. 1533 - Seasonal café ■ Kau Manor Triigi Village, Kose Parish Distance from Tallinn: 50 km Est. 1241 - Kaheksa Jalg Restaurant (among Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants) - Accommodation available ■ Eivere Manor Paide Parish, Järvamaa Distance from Tallinn: 80 km Est. 1552 - Restaurant – pre-bookings only - Accommodation available ■ Vihula Mõis Vihula, Lääne-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 94 km Est. 1501 - La Boheme Restaurant (among Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants) - Accommodation available - Spa facilities ■ Sagadi Manor Vihula, Lääne-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 88 km Est. 1753 - Restaurant - Accommodation available - Museum ■ Saku mõis. Juubelitammede tee 4, Saku, Harjumaa Distance from Tallinn: 18 km Est. 1820 - Pub - Accomodation available ■ Kursi Jahiloss Kursi, Puurmanni Parish Distance from Tallinn: 152 km Est. 1888 - Restaurant - Accommodation available ■ Sangaste Castle Lossiküla, Sangaste Parish, Valgamaa Distance from Tallinn: 243 km Est. 1272 - Restaurant - Accommodation available ■ Kohala Manor Kohala Village, Sõmeru Parish, Lääne-Virumaa Distance from Tallinn: 110 km Est. 1489 - Accommodation - Horseback riding

Eivere Manor

Kõue Manor

Estonian Manor Houses TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO

Most of the Baltic German owned manor houses are located in Estonia. Together, there are 1245. If you add church manors and manor dairy farms, then that number rises over two thousand. About one third of these manor houses have been preserved. The history of Estonian manor houses dates back to the thirteenth century, when the crusaders reached the coast of the Baltic Sea. The first 500 manor houses were built while churches were being built at the end of the Middle Ages. Of these, about 100 were suitable as stone forts, but were later destroyed during the war in the 16th century. Construction of the mighty estates began at the end of the 18th century and continued for about 150 years. The architectural style of the manor houses is comprised of baroque, classicism, and jugend. The manors were assigned to noblemen, who ruled almost the entire land, and one of their best sources of income was the sale of vodka to the Russian army. The heyday of the manors lasted until the beginning

Vihula Manor

of the First World War. The first attack on the manors was in 1905 when sailors and workmen rebelled and destroyed about 150 manors. Estonian independence in 1918 and the land reform of 1919 saw the end of the manor rule, and their owners were left with more than a few hectares of land and the main houses. Some of the manors were turned into parish houses, schools, and kindergartens. Together, 60 of the profit yielding land was

Sagadi Manor

transferred throughout the country, including, for example, 225 vodka factories. The link to the historical owners was broken in 1939, when Germany called the manor lords and their families closer to Poland. During the Soviet period, many of the manors were divided into apartments, while at the beginning of the

1960s, renovation of the manor houses began again. When Estonia regained independence, the ownership of many of the manors changed hands once again. Together, 414 manors have been restored to their original glory. Of those, about 100 are in peak condition and are being used as private homes, schools, parish houses, museums, accommodation, and restaurants. ■

Saka

Tallinn

Saku

Sagadi

Rakvere

Kõue

Kärdla

Vihula

Narva Kohala

Purtse

Eivere Haapsalu

Paide Kursi Pärnu

Viljandi

Tartu

Kuressaare Sangaste Valga Illustration: Eve Jaansoo

Võru

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