The Baltic Guide ENG June 2012 by The Baltic Guide

Tallinn Hostel Guide Estonian Football Interview: Tero Taskila Midsummer in Estonia

TALLINN'S BEST PATIOS uide G ic lt a B e h T : W E N now in English

YOUR FREE NEWSPAPER ■ WWW.BALTICGUIDE.EE

ENGLISH EDITION/JUNE 2012

Seaside bar and restaurant right in the heart of Tallinn.

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

Baltijaam Railway 1200 m away

Sada

Põhja puies tee Mere puiestee

Kai

terminal

Paad

i nar Kuu

Ahtr

i Lennujaam Air Port 4200 m away

Jõe

stee

Mere puie

Vanalinn Old Town 500 m away

Kuunari, Tallinn, Estonia info@citymarina.ee Reservations +372 5642004 Open from May to September

www.troika.ee R ȱ ȱŗśǰȱT ǰȱE ȱȊȱT ǯȱƸřŝŘȱŜŘŝȱŜŘŚśȱȊȱ ȓ ǯ

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-BJ 0ME 5PXO 5BMMJOO t Mon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00 t +372 6 650 928 restoran@chateau.ee t www.chateau.ee

Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

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FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

5 Contents

Lizz at Ja

Summer in the city ummer is upon us! The thermometer read over 20 degrees in May, and the city moved outside into the sunshine. In winter, the tourism industry tempts visitors with slogans like ‘there is plenty to do in Tallinn in the winter,’ and that is not entirely a lie. But who’s kidding who, we all know that we would trade in our parkas for a table outside in the sunshine in the main square in the blink of an eye. Summer is an enchanted time in Tallinn. The streets are crowded with tourists, which is perhaps the one downfall. For me, tourists add life and energy to Tallinn. As the weather warms up over spring, the spirit of this city comes back to life. Long days and short nights are what we look forward to all year long, in anticipation of Midsummer.

To make sure that you are as excited as we are, in this issue we have included a short history of Midsummer in Estonia, with some suggestions for where to celebrate. It can be a shock to arrive in Estonia on June 23 or 24 and find the streets relatively deserted after Estonians have disappeared to their summer homes to celebrate the occasion. Or escape Tallinn yourself, with our summer guide, available from June to August. If you decided to stay, however, enjoy our Tallinn summer patio guide, as well as a guide to Estonian football. Estonia may not have made it to the Euro Cup this time, but football is alive and well in the country nevertheless.

5 editorial 6-7 TOP 10, sights 8 day tripping 10 things of interest 12 museum 16 accomodation 18 beauty 20 sport 21 culture 22-26 information

14-15

Happy exploring! Kristina Lupp

restaurants Outdoor patios Restaurant Kaljas Kochi Ait

One Year in Estonia

17 person Tero Taskila

You could offer me a threemonth vacation in some far-off destination, but I would take a summer in Estonia everytime.

The Baltic Guide

JUNE 2012

It has been just over a year that I have lived in Estonia. There have been plenty of ups and downs, but all in all the experience has been overwhelmingly positive. When I first moved here in the spring of 2011, I experienced my first Estonian spring (also occasionally referred to as “puddle season”). There was plenty of rain, fluctuating temperatures, and the anticipation of that first day when you could leave the house in shorts and a t–shirt was strong. Having travelled to Estonia on a number of occasions, I had experienced a number of beautiful Estonian summers. You could offer me three-month vacation in some far-off destination, but I would take a summer in Estonia every time. The days are incredibly long, warm, and there’s freshness in the air that makes everyone here walking with a little extra bounce in their step.

Then came winter......Exactly what I was worried about. I was well prepared for the cold weather, but all of my friends were warning me that the lack of sunlight could really mess around with your psyche. I was fortunate enough to have a job where I worked outdoors, so the few hours of sunlight that we received every day I got to enjoy, so it’s not as if I missed the sun. Spring is here again, and having experienced all four seasons now, I can relate to Estonians and why they look forward to the summer so much. The days are getting longer every day, and the temperature is creeping up as well and like most people I am looking forward to that first day spent at the beach! Enjoy the sunshine! Paul Marley

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Distribution Network PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Style: Ženja Fokin Model: Kristiina Piiskoppel Clothes: Karen Millen, ABC King, Seppälä

6 news

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â&#x201E;˘ J U N E 2 0 1 2

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June TOP 10 01 Flowers in bloom The Tallinn Flower Festival can be enjoyed in the Towersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Square (Tornide vĂ¤ljak), between the Old Town and the Tallinn railway station (Balti jaam). Just stroll around and enjoy the multitude of gardens with their rich aromas and colours. The Flower Festival changes according to the season. The medieval city wall and fortification towers add to the pleasant atmosphere. Concerts and plays are frequent in the space all summer long. www.lillefestival.tallinn.ee

02 BBQ festival A BBQ party will take place in the seaside resort town of PĂ¤rnu from June 8-9. During the twoday festival, delicious grilled treats can be enjoyed in the VallikĂ¤Ă¤ru open-air theatre together with concerts and vendors selling local produce. www.parnu.ee

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03 Rock from Estonia and the USA The biggest and most anticipated rock event, Rabarock (June 15-16) takes place in the middle of the Estonian forests. The performance will include artists such as Andrew W.K. (USA) and The Stranglers (England). Local stars, Ewert and The Two Dragons are likely to attract big crowds. These guys have recently been discovered in Europe and they will hold their only Estonian gig this year at Rabarock. The motto is PARTY HARD! www.rabarock.ee

04 Heavy summer In June, Rock Cafe in Tallinn is full of heavy music. Mastodon will be on stage on June 19, Fear Factory on June 21, and Megadeth on June 28. Tickets are 20-39â&#x201A;Ź from www.piletilevi.ee

05 Song party

, Tallinn

The menĂ¤s song festival will bring over 4 000 singers to the Tartu festival grounds on June 16. This men-only festival started as a local event a couple of years ago. This year choirs from the Nordic countries will also participate. www.tartu2012.eu

06 A summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day at the beach Estonia has wonderful beaches. Crowded ones in Tallinn and PĂ¤rnu and quiet ones along the numerous sea and lakeshores. The main ones are guarded and provide locker rooms as well as other services. High season is between June 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; August 31, subject to weather.

07 Tallinn VII Guitar Festival

Tallinn Zoo Open daily 9-21

Tallinn, with its historical settings is the perfect place for guitar music. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s festival will present Don Ross, currently one of worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best acoustic guitar players. Yamandu Costa, one of the greatest musicians of Brazilian music and Mirta Alvarez from Buenos Aires, who is considered one of the most authentic and brilliant interpreters of tango and Argentinian folk music will also perform. www.kitarrifestival.ee

08 The Golden 60s Tallinn City Museum celebrates its 75th anniversary. One of the more thrilling exhibitions is called The Golden Sixties, a period of relative liberalism and optimism during the otherwise gloomy and oppressive Soviet period. The standard of living rose, the political life turned slightly more liberal, influences from the West were tangible. It all came to an end with the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia in 1968, after which Breshnev turned everything back. Open all summer. www.linnamuuseum.ee

09 Russian Art from the Collections of the Baltic Countries The exhibition Undiscovered Masterpieces is the first joint exposition of the works by Russian artists, from the late 19th century and early 20th century, from museums in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. The paintings, sculptures and works of applied art from seven museums provides an excellent survey of the golden age of Russian art and the works of undiscovered masters. www.ekm.ee. Open all summer.

Welcome to the zoo! Paldiski mnt. 145, Tallinn Tel. +372 6 943 300, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www.tallinnzoo.ee

10 Lady Gaga The world famous diva Lady Gaga needs no introduction. She will give one of her super concerts at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds on August 25. Be sure to book your tickets early. www.ticketpro.ee

sights 7

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â&#x201E;˘ J U N E 2 0 1 2

INDIAN RESTAURANT

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Katlaaes began last year for the year of the Cultural Capital. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s experimental community garden, will give a glimpse of what to expect in 2014, when Katlaaed opens officially with the Kultuurikatla Centre. Â Various events will be organised in the garden all summer long. These events are created and managed by the active urban population. Look forward to a climbing wall, poetry readings, dance theatre, and morning yoga. There will also be a chicken coop, garden, and cafĂŠ.

Â Katlaaed is open on a test run, and new ideas will be accepted until August 24, so the summer program continues to be filled. The garden is open until September 30.Â The entrance to the garden is between the Estonian Design House (Eesti Disainimaja) and the Cultural Kilometre road (Kultuurikilomeetri tee) near the Kalasadam.

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TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Open Everyday 11-23 MĂźndi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

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Katlaaed has a summer calendar full of activities.

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Kinga

A green and vibrant city

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

Viru

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BELLY DANCING OPEN EVERYDAY 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;24 // RAEKOJA PLATS 13, TALLINN // TEL. +372 6 444 367, +372 5 163 7233 Fri, Sat 20-21

Katlaaed is a green space in the heart of the city, where concerts and theatre will be organised all summer long.

Movies on the roof The most unusual cinema in Tallinn is found on the roof of the Viru Keskus. Tickets are 5ď&#x2122;&#x17D; and can be purchased on the night of the show or online from The biggest outdoor cinema in Esto- Piletilevi. The rooftop cafĂŠ is open all nia opened its doors on May 15. There is day. Katusekino will be open until Sepsomething for everyone: classics, docu- tember. â&#x2013; mentaries, foreign, and brand new features as well. Each film runs for two weeks. The theatre seats 400 people, with Location more seating in the cafĂŠ. Shows start at 23.00 or 23.30. Lounge chairs and warm Katusekino, Viru Keskus. Viru vĂ¤ljak 4/6,Tallinn. blankets will seat you comfortably and Map Code B2. keep you warm.

THE BEST STEAK YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE EVER HAD Â&#x2021; ZZZ VWHDN HH 7DOOLQQ 9LUX

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS KATUSEKINO

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Liisu Juures (At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

Welcome!

News: Breakfast served 10â&#x20AC;&#x201C;12 with free vodka shot

day tripping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

Tallinn

TALLINN

Rakvere

Estonia: Quick Trips Not sure what to do while you’re in Estonia? Too much to see, too little time? The Baltic Guide is here to help. We’ve put together a few suggestions for you.

Day 1 in Tallinn

From Tallinn, about 180km southeast, is the university town of Tartu. Daily connections by train or bus from Tallinn are convenient and inexpensive. (For more information, timetables and ticket prices visit: www.bussireisid.ee; www.edel.ee) Visitor information: www.visittartu.com See page 20 for Tartu city map.

Shopping: For some unique souvenirs, visit Oma Asi (Saiakang 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2). Here you’ll find distinctive handicrafts including knitwear and jewellery. Nu Nordik (Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J1) has modern Estonian designs, including clothing, jewellery and home décor items. A. Galerii (Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) features mostly modern Estonian jewellery.

Take a walk through Tartu’s Old Town. Visit the Town Hall Square to see good examples of neoclassical and late-baroque architecture. The fountain in the middle of the square in front of the Town Hall features a young couple kissing under an umbrella in the rain. About a block from the square is the main building for Tartu University (Ülikooli tnv 18, Tartu). A little further on are the Botanical Gardens (Lai 40, Tartu) that have an impressive collection of over 6500 plant species, many of which are housed in a giant greenhouse.

Church: Visit the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral (Lossi plats, Tallinn Map Code B1). Built between 1894-1900, this Orthodox cathedral was part of the Russification of the Baltic provinces in the last quarter of the 19th century.

Museum: The Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) was recently renovated in 2011. This museum has wonderful exhibits to help you get acquainted with Estonia’s past. Free entry on the last Thursday of every month. Dinner: Get a taste of the Russian side of Estonia with a meal at Troika (Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Try a selection of Russian dumplings (pelmeenid), roasted eel, or bear meat stew. Then wash it all down with a shot of vodka. Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Day 2 in Tallinn:

Take a walk, or rather hop on the City Tour bus to see greater Tallinn. Get off at Kadriorg Park (Tallinn Map Code A4), and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. Or stay on the bus and visit the ruins of the Pirita Convent (Merivälja tee 18).

Tartu

1 Day in Tartu:

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Take a walk through Tallinn’s Old Town, and up the hill to Toompea. Toompea, located on the upper part of the Old Town has great views over the city and the Gulf of Finland. In the lower part of the centre, wander through narrow streets and get a true feeling for this medieval northern town.

Lunch: Enjoy a quick medieval lunch at the Town Hall (Reakoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Elk soup and traditional ale are served in earthenware bowls and cups. Stuffed pastries (pirukad) are baked throughout the day, and are worth the wait, should they run out. Too nice to sit inside? As the weather warms up, patios pop up all over the Town Hall Square, a great place to people-watch.

Tartu

Day Trip from Tallinn: RAKVERE: is located close to Lahemaa National Park, a favourite place for hiking in the summer. About 100km east of Tallinn, Rakvere is the fifth largest city in Estonia. Rakvere Castle Ruins: This is the city’s main attraction. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber. Town Hall Square: Built in 2004, this is probably Estonia’s most modern town hall square. Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity: (Pikk 19, Rakvere) A medieval church built in the 17th century with a strangely tall and slim spire. Rakvere Town Citizen’s Home Museum: (Pikk 50) Get a feel for life in Estonia at the end of the 19th century. This museum showcases how people lived in Rakvere at the time. Dining: Try the Art Café (Lai 13), for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It has a cosy, yet modern interior. Taste their selection of savoury pancakes.

Museum: Visit the Estonian National Museum (Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu). This museum displays temporary and permanent exhibits about Estonian history and culture. It is a wonderful place to become acquainted with Estonian customs and life in Estonia. Or, for something a little different, visit the Toy Museum (Lutsu 8, Tartu). Fun for both children and adults, this museum showcases everything from traditional Finno-Ugric toys, to nostalgic toys from the Soviet era. Lunch: Enjoy a quiet lunch at the Eduard Wilde Café (Vallikraavi 4, Tartu). This restaurant has a large patio open in the summertime. Their long menu has everything from curries to schnitzels, Caesar salad to crispy pork salad. Church: Founded in 1330, the Jaani Church (Jaani 5, Tartu) has been rebuilt many times. Despite being ruined by Soviet bombing in 1944, its restoration reflects the original structure. Enjoy 15 minutes of music every Tuesday and Friday at 12.15pm. Dinner: Built in a former gunpowder cellar, the Püssirohukelder (Lossi 28, Tartu) is a unique place to come for good hearty food. Popular among students, this pub often features live music. Evening entertainment: Enjoy everything from ballet, opera, musicals, and children’s plays at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre (Vanemuise 6, Tartu). For more information and tickets visit www.vanemuine.ee)

Museum: Visit the KUMU Art Museum (Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn Map Code B4) in Kadriorg. Admire Estonian art from the beginning of the 18th century to present. The gallery also has a café with a nice view over the park. Lunch: Get a taste for modern inspired Estonian and Russian food at Kohvik Moon (Võrgu 3, Tallinn Map Code A2). Try the Siberian dumplings in mushroom stock, or the herring. Bookings recommended. Church: Experience another great view over the city from the tower of the Oleviste Church (Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2). Once the tallest structure in Northern Europe, this church was dedicated to the 11th century Norwegian King Olaf II. During the Soviet period, it worked as a surveillance centre for the KGB. Dinner: Restaurant Ö (Mere pst 6E, Tallinn Map Code B2) serves modern Estonian food, using fine local ingredients and experimenting with traditional flavours. Try the six-course degustation menu to get a taste of what modern Estonian cuisine is all about. Evening Entertainment: Take in a performance at the Estonian National Opera and the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2). Enjoy opera, ballet, or a concert in this theatre founded at the beginning of the 20th century. For tickets and information: www.opera.ee; www.concert.ee

Photo: Toomas Tuul The 'kissing fountain' is located in Tartu's Town Hall Square.

KATUSEKOHVIK (roof cafe) a place for friends! Everything that you’d expect from a café... Delicious menu Open from 10:00 till late.

Aia

i Vall

+372 6440145 www.katusekohvik.ee Viru 13/15 4th floor, Tallinn, Old Town. On top of De La Gardie store.

Uus

Cozy shisha room.

Read articles online at

www.balticguide.ee

things of interest

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

Midsummer is here! Midsummer is the most important holiday in Estonia, next to Christmas. TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: AIVAR RUUKEL,EAS

Visitors who come to Tallinn on Midsummer's Eve and Midsummer's Day will find the city deserted. Whoever can, leaves for the countryside, their cottages in the forest, by a lake, or at the beach. Midsummer or St John’s Eve and St John's Day are celebrated on June 23 and 24 in connection with the summer solstice, a day which has constant daylight for almost 24 hours. According to legend it is the night when the young girl Eha meets the young boy Koit. Eha means evening twilight and Koit morning twilight. On Midsummer's night the two youngsters only meet for a short kiss, then they part and have to

wait to meet for a whole year again! It couldn’t be nicer or more poetic! Midsummer’s Eve is celebrated outdoors and nobody goes to sleep. People gather, sing and dance. Many enjoy traditional music and old tunes – perhaps the only time they are sung during the year. Activities are centred around the bonfires, where the BBQ plays an important role. You also have to jump over the bonfire, which according to the legend is a guarantee for prosperity and to avoid bad luck. Others claim that it is a symbol for a connection with the past. Either way, it’s most important that people have fun! Another tradition is a try on the big swings. You stand up and increase your speed until you

make a 360-degree turn around the bar. Summer nights are often chilly so couples cuddle up, discovering the magic of the fire and the surrounding night. The fires spread a feeling of magic around the whole country. This is especially evident if you go to the coast and see smoke from all over. Nature is in full blossom, aromas are rich, nightingales can be heard and the mere idea of winter is dismissed. According to tradition, you should make a wreath of the wild flowers to put on the heads of girls and women. If you are lucky you can see glow-worms and female beetles that use their bioluminescence to attract mates.

Books and DVDs about Estonian History ■ A European Mind is a collecti-

on of speeches made by the late president Lennart Meri. Meri was a statesman par excellence, a thinker, intellectual, poet, and filmmaker, who can best be compared to another intellectual of his time, President Vaclav Havel of the Czech republic. A European mind gives excellent insight into European developments through the eyes and mind of a true European. ■ The Singing Revolution on

DVD gives a fascinating overview of the events in Estonia that led to the collapse of communism and re-independence. Estonians managed to bring a

nuclear super power - the Soviet Union – to their demise, simply by singing and through peaceful resistance. ■ Memories Denied, by the author Imbi Paju, depicts the tragedy of ordinary Estonians. During the Soviet occupation in the 1940s and 1950s, tens of thousands of Estonians were arrested and deported to Siberia. Among them were Imbi Paju´s mother and her twin sister. For those who grew up in the time of the terror, the denial of memories has been the only way to survive. Memories Denied emerged from Imbi Paju´s need to understand her mother´s experiences.

■ The Purge by Finnish-Esto-

nian author Sofi Oksanen, tells about the moral dilemma between collusion and resistance in a totalitarian system – in this case Soviet Estonia. It is a brilliant novel that has been translated into numerous languages and set up as a stage production in Helsinki, Oslo, Stockholm, Paris, London, and New York, just to name a few. The Purge was presented as an opera earlier this year in Helsinki. Sofi Oksanen has been awarded prestigious literary prizes in the Nordic countries as well as the French Fnac prize.

Since Estonia is located on the ale- and vodka belt, consumption of alcohol is by tradition significant, to say the least. Unfortunately bravery in many cases takes over and accidents are many, especially among youngsters. Once the bonfire is over, the sun has risen, the music has played, and the fight against headache and hang over starts for many. Some will be reminded nine months later of the night when Eha and Koit met for a short passionate encounter. Midsummer and Victory Day Midsummer's Eve coincides with Victory Day, which goes back to the defeat of German Landeswehr on June 23, 1919. This was the biggest and most significant victory for Estonia in the Esto-

nian War of Independence 19181920. Victory Day celebrations start with a joyous military parade, which has become a popular family event. The President lights a torch and fires are then lit all over the country as a symbol of independence and of free spirit. This year’s parade will take place in Pärnu. ■

Where to celebrate? Check the back of this guide for Midsummer event listings. If you happen to stay in Tallinn on Midsummer’s Eve, check with the local tourist office for events. In Tallinn Midsummer's Eve, June 23 is celebrated at the Estonian Open Air Museum at Rocca al Mare with food, music, and dance. Midsummer's Eve is equally celebrated in cities like Tartu, Pärnu, Kuressaare, and Haapsalu.

Estonian handicraft

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

in SadaMarket

-20% -50% -70%

A, B terminals

PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

Entrance

ASAD T E K MAR

1-28

BOX

Information desk

Entrance

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EESTI PANGA MUUSEUM

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An interactive museum for the whole family On May 12, the Seaplane Harbour brought nearly 1000 people to its opening weekend. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The exhibition hall of the museum is an impressive sight!

The lower level of the large exhibition hall is set up like the ocean floor.

Opening weekend, the museum was open both Saturday and Sunday. Over 33 hours, 11,200 tickets were sold, many of which were family tickets. Saturday and Sunday drew people to the seaside to see the Russian aerobatic pilots, RUSS Team, which performed all kinds of stunts over the Bay of Tallinn. This new museum cannot be described in just a few sentences or even with a picture. You must go and see for yourself. The good news is, is that the museum is open late every day, from ten in the morning to seven in the evening. The port's most impressive attraction is the roof of the hangar buildings. They were originally built between 1916-1917, and were the world's first large steel arches used in concrete construction. Inside is the large submarine Lembit, whose interior can also be explored. See the submarine

team's tight living quarters as well. Explore Estonian military history from the first airplane made out of wood, the Short 184. Everyone can try their hand at steering a small boat by remote control. Or, send a photo of yourself via email to friend, dressed as a military officer. Learn about Estonian navel history through physical and virtual exhibits. A large exhibition area is built such that when you are on the lower level it is like you are under water, and to come up to the surface you must walk up bridges.

Location The Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) is 1.5 km west of A and B passenger terminals. Next to Linnahall is a tall smoke stack where the Cultural Kilometre begins. The walkway leads past the Patarei Prison. The nearest tram stop (tram 1 and 2) is the Linnahall. Lennusadam (Seaplane Harbour), Küti 17, Tallinn

Suur Tõll, a large icebreaker can also be visited at the Seaplane Harbour. Maritime themed souvenirs are on sale, or enjoy a snack at the café. ■

Many objects (like this torpedo) have been cut open so you can see what's inside.

Stockholm>Tallinn from 556 SEK* *One-way fare, incl. all charges and fees if booked at www.estonian-air.com. Seats limited. Restrictions apply. Subject to change.

www.estonian-air.com

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Map Code A2.

restaurants ■ Molly Malones

■ Amarillo May marked the 40th anniversary of the Sokos Viru Hotel. Amarillo opened its summer terrace with a party. This is the only terrace in Estonia where both the beer taps and the bar are outside. As one can imagine, the service is fast.

The long-time Town Hall Square fixture, Molly Malone’s has now moved to SuurKarja, which has turned into one of the most restaurant-filled streets in the Old Town. Its new location is in the old location of Tonic.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

■ Eesti söögituba

■ Klaaspärlimäng

Two new restaurants have opened on Pikk street in the Old Town: Eesti Söögituba (Pikk 29) and Mix Fusion (Pikk 33). Like the name suggests (Eesti Söögituba means Estonian Dining Room) the restaurant offers true Estonian food, from blood sausage to roasted pork. Mix Fusion offers a variety of international cuisines, from Thai, to Russian and Italian.

Klaaspärlimäng or the glass pearl game, which used to be on Pärnu mnt, has now moved close to the Town Hall Square, on Kullasepa. The restaurant serves Italian favourites and also goes by its Italian name, - il Gioco delle Perle di Vetro.

STEPPING OUTSIDE Summer is the time to enjoy one of the many outdoor patios in Tallinn.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

As the weather warms up in Tallinn, the streets begin to fill up with outdoor seating. The Baltic Guide decided to visit some of the patios of Tallinn to give you some suggestions as to where to rest your feet during or after a long day of sightseeing. Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats) It just would not be trip to Tallinn without a drink or a meal on one of the many patios in the Town Hall Square. We’re not going to lie. This is the most tourist-filled place in Tallinn, and prices will be slightly higher than in other restaurants and cafés, but there is a reason for this. The setting is exquisite. During the summer, a stage is often set-up for various concerts, as well as a market. For a glass of wine or a coffee: Rae Restoran & Café: A nice central patio near the pharmacy, which faces the Town Hall. Sip a decent coffee during the day, or a good glass of wine in the evening.

Raekoja Plats 10. Old Town Map Code H2. Wine Library: As the name suggests, it’s a wine bar, but main dishes and light meals are also served. Enjoy the view of the square with a nice glass of wine. Raekoja Plats 8. Old Town Map Code H1. For local food: Liisu Juures: Both in summer and in winter this is a great place for Estonian food. In the summer, the restaurant has a small patio outside on the square. Raekoja Plats 13. Old Town Map Code H2. Troika: Enjoy the large patio at Troika, but if a concert is taking place, then the stage is usually set up right in front. Not the best view. Nevertheless, try a selection of Russian favourites, including a variety of dumplings. Raekoja Plats 15. Old Town Map Code H2. Old Town, but not on the Square Hotel Telegraaf: This summer terrace is perhaps one of the most tranquil in the Old Town.

Enjoy a warm summer evening at Komeet Café.

It’s located less than a minute walk from the Town Hall Square along Apteegi, in a secluded courtyard. Enjoy excellent food, excellent service, and relaxing live music. Vene 9. Old Town Map Code H2. Cru: Recently opened, it is final-

ly warm enough to start enjoying their beautiful patio and courtyard. The courtyard located on the side of the restaurant is peaceful, so peaceful in fact, that you forget that you are on the main street in Tallinn’s Old Town. Viru 8. Old Town Map Code H2. Luscher & Matiesen: This is an old wine company originally founded in 1910. In the summer they open a terrace almost overlooking Tallinn in the upper part of the Old Town. They serve both a French white and a Spanish Red under their label, as well as small snack menu. Cash only. Kohtu 12. Tallinn Map Code A2. Leib Resto & Aed: Good food, good wine, secluded lush green courtyard…what more could you ask for. Located in the old Scottish Club, this is a great place to come for lunch or dinner. Bookings are a must. Uus 31. Old Town Map Code F3.

Hotel Telegraaf has a tranquil courtyard patio.

Chakra: If you are craving some spice visit Chakra for some wonderful Indian food. The courtyard patio is in the back of the restau-

rant and is situated off a quiet old town street, making this a great place to relax with friends. Bremeni käik 1. Old Town Map Code G3. On the roof: Danneborg: While this café is not on a roof per say, it’s still worth a mention because of its peculiar location. Over-looking Tallinn’s Old Town from inside the city wall, enjoy a quiet drink. If you manage to make it up the treacherous stairs, you’ve certainly earned it. Lühike jalg 9a. Old Town Map Code I1. Kohvik Komeet: The cakes at this café are divine, as are the cocktails. The quirky round booths are the perfect place to enjoy a warm summer evening. Estonia Puiestee 9, Solaris Centre 4th floor. Tallinn Map Code B2. Lounge 24: On the roof of the Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, is the highest open-air patio you are going to find. Enjoy good food, great cocktails, and an even better view. Ravala Puiestee 3. Tallinn Map Code B3. ■

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

■ Tommi Grill

15 ■ Top 50 Restaurants in Estonia

The late night and early morning eatery Tommi Grill has moved. Its old location on Lõuna street is being torn down, and Tommi Grill is moving across the street to Tatari beside the Uuskasutuskeskus (used clothing and furniture shop). The new location will open its doors in July. Tommi Grill’s other restaurant in the Viru Square will continue business as usual.

The 50 best restaurants in Estonia were announced at the end of May. The selection process takes place in the fall, when an international panel of judges visits the restaurants. All of the chosen restaurants received a sticker for the door, to make it easier for the client to distinguish between them. The contest is organised by Aivar Hanson, who said that among the 50 chosen, all have reached a great achievement.

A Maritime Old Town Climb aboard Kaljas, Tallinn's new seafood restaurant.

A new beer in town Tallinn welcomes a new brewpub. TEXT: MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The interior is designed like the inside of an old fashioned schooner, and further decorated with pictures and maps. Compared to other restaurants in Tallinn, the menu has a unique range of special fish dishes. For example pike perch and whitefish are not typically found on restaurant menus. That is why we decided to try the seafood. Before the meal was served, the server brought warm black bread and buns with anchovy buter to the table. The Caesar salad with tiger prawns was refreshing and generously portioned. This restaurant's fish soup had trout, pike perch and mussels, as well as egg. While the soup was filling, it lacked proper seasoning.

The fish imported from the Atlantic was not very fresh. Main courses come served stacked like a tower, the fish was placed on top for the potato gratin. The sauce was a Béarnaise, which is traditionally served with meat. The other fish main course was the baked whitefish. It was fresh, but the baking was more like steaming, which made the skin soft rather than crispy. For dessert, the mille-feuille, was made with fresh strawberries, whipped cream, and topped with a berry sauce. It was perhaps the best part of the meal. For two people, including beer and a glass of wine, the total came to 58.50. ■

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Old Town’s Beer House and Brewery Õlleklubi have new competition. While Kochi Ait is located outside of the Old Town, it’s worth the short walk to the port. The Kochi brewery itself has not yet opened, but the restaurant, contained in the same building is serving a wonderful menu. The menu consists of Estonian-inspired tavern food, including garlicky malt bread (4.50), and moose dumplings (3.80). A cheese platter, made up of a

selection of cheeses from Esko Farm is served with cloudberry jam (6.90), and is also nice with a pint of beer. For main courses, the pork schnitzel was crispy and accompanied by a lemon mousse, seasonal vegetables, and mashed potatoes (8.80). The braised moose (14.90) was a special treat. It came served in a clay pot, with a side of jerusalem artichoke and potato purée. The meat was tender and melted in your mouth. If you still happen to have room for dessert (and you might not, the portions are generous), the menu

offers a selection of ice creams and sorbets, as well as cakes. Kochi Ait is part of the Kochi Aidad refurbished storehouse complex near Tallinn’s port. These warehouses were built in the late 1800s, and named after their owners. Since then they have been renovated with modern amenities, keeping their old world charm in tact. The brewery will be opening soon, but there is no shortage of local and imported beers to enjoy in the meantime. Listen live music by Estonian bands on Friday and Saturday nights. ■

Location Restaurant Kaljas, Viru 23, Tallinn. Map Code H3

Kochi Kohvituba Right next door to Kochi Ait is the Kochi Kohvituba. The newly renovated warehouse turned café is the perfect place to enjoy a light lunch or a glass of wine. Light meals and snacks include soups, sandwiches, salads, pastries and desserts, all prepared in house. Kochi Kohvituba, Lootsti 10, Tallinn Map Code A3

Location Kochi Ait Lootsi 10, Tallinn Map Code A3

accomodation

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

Old House Hostel

HOSTELS IN TALLINN Your guide to finding an inexpensive night's sleep in Estonia's capital.

The Monk’s Bunk Tatari 1, Tallinn www.themonksbunk.com Prices start from 9€ in summer, 8€ in winter GIDIC Hostel Tallinn Tartu mnt 31, Tallinn www.gidic.ee Prices start from 10€ 16€ Hostel Roseni 9, Tallinn www.16eur.ee Prices start from 10€ (dorm), 32€ private double

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The Red Emperor is conveniently located in the Old Town and very close to a supermarket as well. The hostel is clean, the staff friendly, and you need not go far for a drink (the bar is right next door). The Red Emperor offers free linen, free Wi-Fi, and free luggage storage.

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Red Emperor Hostel & Bar Aia 10, Tallinn Old Town www.redemperorhostel.com Prices start from 9€ (dorms), 10-12€ (pp private) in winter; and 11€ (dorms), 12€ (pp private) in summer

Staying outside of the Old Town can be just as fun, if not a little bit quieter.

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Staying at this small hostel is like staying at a friend’s house. It sleep only 20 twenty people in dorm and private rooms. Located on the outskirts of the Old Town, it’s a convenient walk to the Town Hall Square, as well as to the quirky Kalamaja area. Enjoy free Wi-Fi, sauna, and a complimentary breakfast.

■

Old House Hostel Uus 26, Tallinn Old Town www.oldhouse.ee Prices start from: Summer: weekday 14€, weekend 15€ Midseason (April, May, September) weekday 10€, weekend 12€. Low season weekday 9€, weekend 11€

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Tallinn Boutique Hostel or Viru Backpackers Viru 5, Tallinn Old Town www.tallinnboutiquehostel.com Prices start from 20€ single, 36€ double

Flying Kiwi Backpackers Nunne 11, Tallinn Old Town http://www.flyingkiwitallinn.com/ Prices start from 14€ pp (dorm), and 34€ for a double private room

The Old House has small dorm rooms with the largest one having six beds. Best of all, there are no bunk beds. The hostel is richly decorated with a cosy common room, and kitchen. The Old House offers free Wi-Fi, free parking, as well as linens and towels.

This small seven-room hostel is full of character. It’s located in a more than 500-year-old house, right in the heart of the Old Town and has been newly renovated. Enjoy a BBQ on the terrace, with use of a kitchen and common area as well. Free laundry, towels, and Wi-Fi are included.

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Alur Hostel is situated in a 15th century building. The hostel was renovated in 2006. Rooms and bathrooms are modern and clean, and sleep 3-12 people. Lai is a quieter street in the Old Town, but a few doors down on either side of the hostel are restaurants and bars, so be prepared for possible street noise. The hostel organises day

This hostel is known as the party hostel in Tallinn. Run by the same people at Alur, and The Monk’s Bunk, this hostel boasts free sauna, on top of the standard free Wi-Fi, linens and locker storage. Day trips and pub-crawls are organised on a daily basis, as well as activities in the hostel itself, e.g. Wizard Wednesdays where you try to drink your height in cans. If you succeed you make it on to the hall of fame and get to wear the wizard hat for a night.

Knight House Rüütli 16, Tallinn Old Town www.knight-house.eu Prices start from 10€ (dorm)

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Alur Hostel or Tallinn Old Town Hostel Lai 20, Tallinn Old Town http://hostel.alur.ee/ Prices start from 9€

Tallinn Backpackers Olevimägi 11, Tallinn Old Town www.tallinnbackpackers.com Prices start from 9€ in winter, 12€ in summer (dorms only)

The Tallinn Boutique Hostel offers a more quiet hostel experience. All of the rooms are private rooms, which makes this seem like more of a hotel than a hostel. If you are missing the company, you are more than welcome to walk down the road to their sister hostel, Tallinn Backpackers to join the party. Tallinn Boutique Hostel offers free breakfast, free Wi-Fi, and free luggage storage.

Rüütli

The word hostel automatically brings to mind loud parties, and stumbling strangers. If that is what you are looking for, don’t worry; Tallinn has those kinds of places. If that’s not what you’re looking for, we have good news; it’s possible to find cheap accommodation, and a good night’s sleep. Staying in Tallinn’s Old Town can be expensive, but choosing a hostel in the Old Town let’s you have your cake and eat it too!

trips, pub-crawls and other activities. Enjoy free Wi-Fi, linens, and luggage storage, as well as a smoking room, and a common room designed to look like an old pub.

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TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV, RED EMPEROR HOSTEL, 16€ HOSTEL, THE OLD HOUSE

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

person

Mr Tero Taskila – high flying goals for Estonian Air The Estonian aviation environment is going through some of the biggest changes in its history. TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: ESTONIAN AIR

The man behind the scenes is Mr Tero Taskila (37) who has an extensive background in aviation, from such prestigious companies as Finnair, Lufthansa, and Gulf Air. According to Taskila, the overall goal of the company is to provide opportunities for economic growth in Estonia through better global access. Taskila and his crew have a clear vision and the ambition to get there. What are the specifics of this new model? The new business model is based on customer connectivity. It has changed the way operations are run at Tallinn airport. Before, we had flights scattered during the day, now the focus is on getting all the aircraft arriving in Tallinn at the same time and departing at similar times to optimize the connectivity. This has meant that all the suppliers have been refining their processes so they have adequate staffing during the peak hours. The new model was launched in late March. What was the outcome? The first eight weeks shows that we made the right choice with the business model. Customers appreciate the new flight options and this can be seen from our passenger growth. Passenger numbers nearly doubled in April and this growth has continued into May. Does this also imply transit passengers? What has been surprising is that the transfer passengers are growing much faster than expected. What are the challenges? There are operational challenges. The routines have to be adjusted to handle the new schedule and aircraft. During the winter we held a massive training program for pilots and technical personnel, to make the switch from 17 years of Boeing 737 qualification to Canadair 900 and Embraer 170. What about safety issues? As we do not compromise with safety issues, the pilots and ground personnel need more

time for checks before the flight, mechanics need more time in troubleshooting on the new planes, but this is the only way we can get the routine in place. Has everything been running according to routines and plans? We are victims of our small size. Our profitability hinges on the efficiency of the aircraft. The new aircrafts are all well equipped to provide us that; but at the same time they are not immune. Since safety is our leading concern and we only have seven jets, you can quickly calculate that 15 of our capacity is grounded if one plane has to be over hauled unexpectedly.

Passenger numbers nearly doubled in April and this growth has continued into May. How is Estonian Air’s on time performance? All in all, we are performing on the level of the industry average, considering the statistical challenge of one delay causing more impact to smaller airlines than bigger. We are not pleased with the present situation. Every delay costs the business directly and indirectly which means inconveniences for passengers. What actions have been taken to tackle delays and other issues connected with fast growth? We have made some adjustments to the timetables to allow more time to catch up with delays. We have more frequent operations meetings with internal key players as well as sub-contractors, such as the airport, catering, border control, and air traffic control. In addition we have wet-leased one turbo propeller aircraft to support feeder traffic and at the same time have trained our pilots for the new aircraft type. ■

ESTONIAN AIR AT-A-GLANCE ■ Estonian Air, Estonia’s national carrier, is the biggest operator at Tallinn Airport. ■ Estonian Air focuses on improving the connection between Estonia and the rest of the world, with the aim of increasing competitiveness as a network carrier hub.

■ Estonian Air flies to 24 destinations in Western Europe, Scandinavia, and CIS. Recently the following destinations were added: Helsinki, Riga, Jyväskylä, Hannover, Vienna, Venice, Joensuu, Kajaani, and Tbilisi.

■ In the first quarter of 2012, Estonian Air carried 224,826 passengers altogether, which is 33.3% more than during the same period last year.

■ The bulk of the fleet consists of fuel efficient and environmental friendly Embraer 170 and Canadair medium range aircraft.

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

Big is in Big is better this year with bold classic frames with a new twist. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Carrera 144€ www.prooptika.ee

The Polar One brand offers modern styles at a competitive price.

Small frames are still out, or at least that’s what you would think visiting one of the many eyeglass boutiques in Tallinn. It comes down to personal preference and individual style, according to the helpful staff at Pro Optika. This season, the big frames, still seeming to be winning. Classic Ray Bans, or large circular lenses are taking first place. Designers have given some frames a new twist. While a frame might appear to be the same old boring black, take a closer look to find interesting patterns in the colour. According to Jaan Põrk, Managing Director at Stock Optika and Pere Optika, there are three categories of sunglasses. Choose by brand: major designers are remodelling classic styles with new colours and patterns and blending interesting tones to create bold styles this season. Specialty sunglasses are designed for functionality. Customers choose frames like RayBans because they are high quality,

comfortable, and durable. Frames with polarised lenses also fall into this category. If you have tried a pair of polarised lenses, it might be safe to say that you would never go back to traditional lenses. They really make is easy to see, and everything around you very sharp. These lenses are great for driving. You can also find brands that offer the same quality that the big brands do, but at a fraction of the cost, like the Polar One brand at Stock Optika. The Polar One brand is a range of polarised

lensed frames, and offers similar styles to those of the brand name companies. ■

Location Pro Optika Viru väljak 4/6, (inside the Viru Centre) Tallinn Map Code B2 www.prooptika.ee Stock Optika Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (across Stockman Department Store) Map Code B3 www. optiline.ee Pere Optika WwPassaaz Aia 3/Vana Viru 10 Tallinn Map code B2 www.optiline.ee

Emporio Armani 216€ www.prooptika.ee

Estonian Sun Cream

Sun care for your hair Everyone knows that it’s important to protect your skin from the sun, but your hair is just as important. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Harmful UVA and UVB rays can damage your hair and leave it looking dry. These rays can also cause permanent damage to the outside protective layer of the hair cuticle and then continue into the centre to damage the cortex. There are many products out there but how do you know

which ones to choose? The shampoos and conditioners are a good preventative measure, products that are leave-in are also beneficial because they sit and coat the cuticle.

sun, as well as the sea, and chlorine. The After-sun Nourishing Balm (15.80 200 mL) should be left in for 2-3 minutes as a hair mask to bring back softness and shine.

L’Oreal Solar Sublime After-sun Protect Shampoo (11 250mL) is for use after sun exposure to nourish and repair the hair from the

Schwarzkopf Bonacure Hair Therapy Sun Protect Soft Ends Fluid (10.86 75mL) is a leave-in product for the tips of your hair.

It stays in hair to leave the ends looking soft and shiny. Goldwell’s Sun Reflects Aftersun Hair and Body Shampoo (9.60 250mL) has a lovely fresh scent, is nourishing for both your hair and body, and helps restore moisture. All products are available from Hairmail in Tallinn. ■

www.hairmail.ee

Estonia is a northern country, but the sun can still be harsh. TThe Solar Sun Creams are made in Estonia and protect your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. The Solar range of products has something for every skin type. The UVA and UVB filters help protect the skin from sunburns and aid in preventing premature ageing of the skin. Solar offers sun creams with SPF 4, 6, 8, 15, 25, and 30. Some are waterproof, and one even contains an insect repellent. Sun milks, come in a spray form with SPF 4, 10, and 20 for children. The spray is less messy to apply, and can feel less heavy than a cream. After sun exposure, try the Solar after-sun cream or spray to moisturise the skin. Available at various pharmacies across Estonia.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

Websites: www.fclevadia.ee www.fcflora.ee www.jkkalju.ee/ http://www.jkkalev.ee/ http://www.facebook.com/fclevadia http://www.facebook.com/ JKTallinnaKalev http://www.facebook.com/jkkalju http://www.facebook.com/FCFlora

Key games 9 June 14:00 FC Flora – FC Levadia. At A Le Coq Arena 18. June 18:45 JK Tallinna Kalev - Nõmme JK Kalju at Kalevi Keskstaadion 26 June 18.45 Nomme Kaju vs FC Kuressaare 30 June 19.30 FC Levadia vs Nomme Kalju at Kadiroru Stadium 21 July 17.00 Nomme Kalju vs Fc Flora At Kadrioru Stadium

Football in Estonia Across Europe, the football season is starting to draw to a close and so the long summer months of waiting will soon be upon us, especially if we’re from countries who won’t be participating in the European Championships. TEXT: MARK BENN, PHOTO: TALLINNA KALEV

Thankfully the Estonian Meistriliiga takes place during the summer months and, with a host of teams situated within the capital playing on Tuesday nights and Saturday afternoons, a trip to Tallinn can provide the soccer aficionado with the perfect opportunity to fill that hole left by their own team’s summer hiatus. Just a few kilometres south of the city centre lies the A. le Coq arena, a 10,000 seat stadium that hosts both the national team and 9 times champions FC Flora. The current Meistriliiga holders have produced a number of players who have gone on to have distinguished careers abroad such as Mart Poom and Andres Oper.

They are looking to continue their success on the pitch which has so far led to European qualification every year since 1994. Tickets can be purchased on the door up to an hour before kick-off and cost 5 for adults and 2 for students; free entry for children under-12. Located 2km to the west of the city, situated within a stonesthrow of the Kadriog palace, is the home of FC Levadia, Kadrioru stadium (Roheline aas 24). Levadia have a strong claim to being Flora’s main rivals in the city and have won seven championships since their promotion to the Meistrilliga in 1999. Looking to make up for a disappointing fourth place finish last year, the current season appears to be going to plan as Levadia challenge

for top spot. Entry is 5, under 18’s and pensioners 2. While Flora and Levadia can be seen as the main Tallinn teams, JK Nomme Kalju have recently been taking large strides to interrupt the others dominance, finishing last season in 2nd place. With a new stadium being built in Mustamae in the west end of the city, the future looks bright. For the current season, Kalju will be playing at Kadrioru stadium. Entry is 5 for adults, 1 for under 14’s. Finally, Estonia’s oldest club, JK Tallinna Kalev hold the claim of being the only Estonian team to play in the Soviet Top League. While something of a yo-yo club in the recent past, Kalev celebrated their 100th anniversary

Estonia's oldest club, JK Tallinna Kalev holds the claim of being the only Estonian team to play in the Soviet Top League.

with promotion to the Meistrilliga last year and seem to have carried their form over into this

season. Playing at Kalevi Keskstaadion, situated less than a kilometre to the south east of the city centre on Staadioni, entry to the ground costs a guest friendly 2 for adults, with discounts for facebook friends, pensioners and children while the club house is open for the whole day. For those interested in attending a football match, it is advisable to keep up to date with the sides by looking at their websites (though only Kalju have a website that is English friendly). Alternatively, all the sides make use of their facebook pages, updating fans on forthcoming fixtures and events and often offering discounts to those who decide to follow them through the social networking site. ■

Oslo>Tallinn from 442 NOK* *One-way fare, incl. all charges and fees if booked at www.estonian-air.com. Seats limited. Restrictions apply. Subject to change.

www.estonian-air.com

culture this&that/diverse

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

Opera and Theatre: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)

Russian Theatre (Vene teater)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater)

Jaanipäev:

Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code G1

22.6

20 St. John's Eve with Rock Hotel, Tabivere Vabaajakeskus 22.- 23.620 Pühajärve Midsummers Fire 2012, Pühajärve park, Otepää 22.6 22 Jaanilaager- Toomas Anni concert, Pidula Forelli Puhkeküla, Saaremaa 23.6 21 Juhannusleiri- Merilin Uusküla Concerts, Pidula,Forelli Puhkeküla, Saaremaa 23.6-24.6 Tartu Jaanituli, Raadil

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

June News Smartphones now able to add digital signature Android smartphones and tablets can now digitally sign documents while on the go. This feature will soon become available for iOS as well. Until now, digitally signed documents could only be viewed.

Turkish Airlines TallinnIstanbul Turkish Airlines announced that they will start a new route between both cities in the near future. The details have yet to be specified, and the schedule is still yet to be confirmed.

Possible reopening of TallinnHaapsalu line After 17 year of inactivity, train service to Haapsalu could resume. Haapsalu is a coastal town of 10,000, and known as a popular resort town. The line closed in 1995. Its reopening could aid in the socio-economic development of the area.

Google Street View now available in Estonia The street view service became available to users in May. Street view currently covers 30 countries.

Guarded bicycle parking in Tallinn

Saku Suurhall

27.6

Small Night Music

Paldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn, www.sakusuurhall.ee 8.6.–9.6

Nero, Well-known english electronic music DJ duo

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF) www.plmf.ee:

Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal)

5.6

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I/J3

6.6

15.6 21.6

19 19

7.6 17.6 5.7

19 15 20

Ettlingen Mandolin Orchestra Nordic- Baltic Male Choir Festival Great Summer Gathering. Friends , Estonian National Symphony Orchestra, conductor Neeme Järvi

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus) Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I1 14.6

Torshavnar Male Choir (Fäärin islands), composer Bjarni Restoff, Estonian Teduste Academic Men's Choir, composers Andrus Siimon and Igor Nikiforov

Tallinn City Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda Location: Old Town Map Code H1/2 28.6

Small Night Music

Jaani Church (Jaani kirik)

"Master School", Pille Lill 50 and students, Tartu Linnamuuseum (City Museum) "Youth Master School", "VI Estonian Youth String Instrument Competition, Festival,"winners' performance. National Library of Estonia, free entry Nissi Summermusic, Nissi Church "Master School", Tallinn Town Hall

19.6 21.6 28.6 30.6

19 19 19 19

Guitar Hunt Pärnu mnt. 19, Tallinn, www.guitarhunt.ee Every tuesday Salsa night Every wednesday Beerpong

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie (Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn)

Festivals:

Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee Location: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1

25.05- 24.8 Tallinn Flower Festival 2012, Tornide väljak (Towers' Square), and Kadriorg 1.6- 30.9 Nargenfestivli 2012, Over Estonia, www.nargenfestival.ee 8.6- 9.6 Grillfest 2012- Good Food Festival, Pärnu Vallikäär Meadow 15.6- 16.6 Rabarock Festival, Järvakandi 21- 24.6 Watergate Festival, concerts, Pärnu 29.6- 1.7 Pärnu Hansapäevad (hanseatic Days) 2012, Pärnu Vallikäär 4.7- 8.7 XVI Muhu Contemporary Music Festival " Juu jääb", Muhu, Abruka, Saaremaa

Põltsamaa wine cellar open for summer

Nokia-konserttisali (Solarise Keskuses) Estonia pst. 9, Tallinna, www.tallinnconcerthall.com 16.6

Festival "Kultuuri Kultus" 2012 Mihhail Zhavanetski comedy night

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja) Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee 20.6

Beauty of the Night, Kukruse Manor

Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja) Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2 6.6 15.6

19 19

Ettlingen Mandolin Orchestra Nordic- Baltic Male Choirs Festival

Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik) Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 13.6

15.6

Mirror in Mirror. Chamber Choir Collegium Musicale Nordic- Baltic Male Choir Festival

Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00. Location: Map Code A5 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Mastodon (USA) Fear Factory (USA) Megadeth (USA) Fu Manchu (USA)

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja)

Lühike Jalg 9, Tallinn Karttakoodi I1 18.6 18 In Horto Regis II/ In The King's Garden: Renaissance mosaic 19.6 18 In Horto Regis II/ In The King's Garden: Music salon trough centuries 20.6 18 In Horto Regis II/ In The King's Garden: The court composers of Maximilian I 21.6 18 In Horto Regis II/ In The King's Garden: The Flame of Southern Songs

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April Wed 11am– 8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss)

Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee

Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Väravatorn

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Rock Cafe

Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J2

Free, guarded bicycle parking is available in Tallinn’s city centre from May 15 to September 22. In addition to this service, cyclists can have minor repairs done to their bikes. Bicycle rental will also be available from certain parking lots. A folding map of Tallinn’s cycling routes will be distributed throughout the summer. Parking lots will be located on Harju next to St. Nicholas Church, and another in Freedom Square.

The Põltsamaa castle has opened for the summer season in Jõgeva. Fruit wine production began in the region in the 1920s. The castle has both a wine cellar and food museum.

Exhibitions & Museums:

Concerts:

KUMU Art Museum.

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66 Opening Hours: 11 -16

Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83 Location: Old Town Map Code G3 Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1 Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

Adamson-Erics Museum (Adamson Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

Other Events:

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

18.5- 28.8

Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

10-18 Outdoor Exhibit of Estonian Language and Culture, Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum 9.6 15 Sõru Jazz 2012, Sõru Port, Hiiumaa 10.6 12 Sõru Jazz 2012, Sõru Port, Hiiumaa 21.6 Tere Pärnu suvi, Tallinn passes capital city name to Pärnu 27.6 19 Jubilee Concert- Corelli Consort 20!, Jubilarian Corelli Consort of the baroque instruments, Mustpeade maja Valge saal (House of the Blackheads) Tallinn 29-30.6 14 Hard Rock camp 2012, Vana- Vigala 29.6- 1.7 Hansapäevad Pärnus (Hanseatic Days), handicraft 30.6 19 Concert "Popchoirday"- Estonian Youth Pop and Jazz Song Festival, Tartu Song Festival Grounds 4.7- 7.7 17 Õllesummer 2012, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds 5.7- 8.712 XIII Keskajapäevad (Medieval Days), Tallinn Old Town

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4 Opening Hours: January–June Wed 10–20, ThuSun 10–17. July–December Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4 Location: Map Code A4 Opening Hours: January–April Wed 10–20, Thu– Sun 10–17. May–June Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012 Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39 Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design(Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00 Location: Old Town Map Code 1G Opening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08. Location: Old Town Map Code D3 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00 Location: Map Code A2 Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18 Permanent exhibitions: Greater-Tallinn, Art Nouveau, Wooden Architecture, Functionalism, Power and the Square, Contemporary Architecture.

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77 Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18

22 22

traffic www in estonia traffic

TALLINN

Tartu

ET LHBTEIACBL AG T LIUTCI IDCGE G U™UI DIDDEEE C™™E M JJ UUBNN T H ET H BA E ERE 2 0 11 212

Ferry Schedule Tallinn–Stockholm

Tallinn–St. Petersburg

Tallink departs everyday at 18.00

St. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

Helsinki–Tallinn

Таllinn-Helsinki

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

07.30–09.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

Temptrans AS

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–09.30

Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–11.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

08.00–10.30

Viking XPRS

09.00–12.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.00–11.30

Lindaline

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

10.30–12.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

10.30–13.30

Nordlandia (Su)

13.00–16.30 Baltic Princess

11.30–14.00

Viking XPRS

12.00–13.30

Lindaline

Ticket Counters Viru 6, Tallinn, tel. +372 6 480 777, open M-F 10–18, lunch 13–13.30. Nurga 1, Maardu, tel. +372 6 006 133, open M-F 8–19, lunch 13–14, Su open 10–15 Bus Station, Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, open M-Su 6.30–21 E-mail: temptrans@ temptrans.ee, www.temptrans. ee. Buses to Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus.

13.30–15.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

(We–M)

Tallink Star/Superstar

15.00–16.30

(We–M)

16.00–19.15

Nordlandia (Su)

14.00–15.30

Lindaline

16.30–19.00

Viking XPRS (Su)

Ecolines

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

16.30–20.00

Nordlandia (M–F)

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

16.30–18.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.30–22.00

Baltic Princess

17.00–18.30

Lindaline

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

17.30–20.45

Nordlandia (Sa)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

18.00–20.30

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

20.00–22.30

Viking XPRS (Su)

19.00–20.30

Lindaline

20.15–23.30

Nordlandia (Su)

19.30–21.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F–Su)

21.00–22.30

Lindaline (F–Su)

Office Tartu mnt 68, Tallinn, tel +372 6 062 217, e-mail: ecolines@ecolines.ee. Open M-F 9–18. Bus Station Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, tel. +372 56 377 997, e-mail: ecolines.kassa@ecolines. ee. Open M-F 6.30–21. Buses to Europe and Russia, as well as many other destinations.

21.00–00.15

Nordlandia (M–F)

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

21.30–00.00

Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

00.30–06.40

Nordlandia (M)

01.00–06.40

Nordlandia (Tu–F)

01.00–07.00

Nordlandia (Sa)

13.30–15.30

22.30–00.30

Tallink Star/Superstar

Lindaline

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

Useful Information No international driver’s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0. ■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Copterline www.fast-class.com Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus Station

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Lastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21 Tel. +372 12 550 (Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

USEFUL VOCABULARY

Tallinn Train Station

The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

Parking in Tallinn ■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia. ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants as well as rare animal and plant species and so forth, also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited. See also http://www.emta.ee/ index.php?id=1089 Customs Information Tel. +358 20 690 600

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. The 15 minute free parking does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour and minute of purchase. Shopping malls are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Toompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö Line Bookings +358 6 000 4300 (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000 Nordlandia Tallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Linda Line Bookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970, (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 999 333. www.lindaliini.ee Merilin & Karolin Tallinn: Linnahall Port Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

Tallink

Parking Fees ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

Bookings everyday from 07–22, Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn info and bookings Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also available in travel agencies. Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, Superstar Tallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

■ Airport and Port Transit Getting to the Port The distance between the Viru Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port. It passes by the airport. The Mõigu Bus Line passes through the port. For more information and timetables http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Free Bus from the Port The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free bus that passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www. prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Centre and the airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport. The exact schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

■ Tallinn Taxis ■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo. ■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. ■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The

cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured. Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a GFIK&?89FLI receipt then the passenger is not KiX`e JkXk`fe obliged to pay. If you feel that the I8EE8Dv< price was unreasonable then make 8?KI@ M@IL K<< E8IM8 DEK% note of the car registration number, FC; JHL8I< date of journey and the name of M`il _fk\cc KFNE the taxi company. <JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ GJK% C@@M8C8@8 GvIEL DEK%

K8IKL DEK% AL?B<EK8C@

■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel. +358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966 Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki Katajanokka

Finnair www.finnair.ee. Tallinn +372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309 Helsinki–Vantaa Airport +358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/ received call+local call cost)

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 2

first aid…esmaabi

www.visitestonia.com

Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

School Breaks 17–25.3. Spring Break 6.6.–31.8. Summer Break 22.–30.10. Autumn Break 23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia With a mobile phone from Estonia to outside the country: + (country code)(phone number) When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the phone number. For example +372 6 666 666. When calling within Estonia the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8, Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136 wireless networks listed. In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are marked in green, meaning that they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and residents free connections. These can be found on the website listed above. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Estonian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian, English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at

■ Currency Exchange

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21 How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20

24 24

TALLINN TALLINN

Tallinn and Estonia

Tartu Tartu

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Tallinn Sightseeing Foto: Andrei Chertkov

ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building. ■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn, tel. +372 57 503 650 E-mail: info@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee Open everyday May - September 10–19, Open October - April W - M 10–18, Closed Tuesday. The restaurant is open everyday May - September 10–23, October - April 11–23. ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the

Tallinn TV Tower IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

Arena 3

Mere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2 www.protest.ee

Closed Sundays Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3 www.kokteilibaar.ee

Cathouse Open: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

Cellar Open: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von Überblingen Open: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinn www.uberclub.ee

Hollywood Closed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

Inferno Open: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3 www.amneziaclub.ee

Korter Roseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

Panoraam Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubpanoraam.ee

■ History Museums Bastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud). Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town. Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower. Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum). Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms. Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4. Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room. Estonian History Museum – Maarjamäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56. Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011. Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum). Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

Parlament Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubparlament.ee

Partei Open: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinn www.parteiklubi.ee

Protest

Rock Café Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4 www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi Klubi Open: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4 www.sossi.ee

Teater Open: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

Vabank Open: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1 www.vabank.ee

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2 www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl Baar Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1 www.vonkrahl.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants The following establishments show football as well as other sports. Clayhills, Pikk 13. Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325. Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63. Molly Malone’s, Mündi 2. Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4. The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19. Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum). Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2. Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases modern photography exhibits.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

■ Other Museums

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teaduskeskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. The wonders of energy and physics.

AHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA teaduskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem). Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1. Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1. A museum about the world of pup-

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Open: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2 www.clubprive.ee

Butterfly Lounge

Tallinn Museums

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Privé

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn B2 www.bonbon.ee

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

Open: Thu–Su Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2 www.amigo.ee

Bonbon

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam). Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

z A Brief History of Estonia

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

Cafe Amigo

Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2 www.arena3.ee

Tallinn Nightlife

KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum). Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art Museums Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum). A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4. Located next to Mikkeli Museum, displaying foreign art. Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1. Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display. Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1. Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia. 11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed. 1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia. 1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success. 1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order. 1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa). 1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule. 1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000. 1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad. 1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility. 1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government. 1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces. 1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed. 1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree. 1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation. 1939 The German-Soviet NonAggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia. 1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union. 1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again. 1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight. 1948–25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000. 1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian. 1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa. 1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988. 1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow. 2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

City of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

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Vastseliina Irboska

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Vallasisene linn

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PĂľlgaste Tilsi

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Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

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