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Medieval dining in Tallinnâ€™s Old Town Visit Tartu and PĂ¤rnu Shopping Spotlight: Rotermann Quarter
Spring has sprung! Tips from locals on where to eat, drink, and shop!
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 4
Bitcoins, manor houses, and spring
arch was a very busy news month, a missing airplane, a referendum; but meanwhile in Estonia, one of the largest Bitcoin transactions took place. The run-down Malla manor house in Lääne-Viru County was purchased by the Finnish businessman, Risto Pietilä. Pietilä plans to renovate one part of the main building and turn it into a hotel and centre for Bitcoin enthusiasts. The Estonian countryside is spotted with manor houses, some that have been renovated and turned into luxury hotels, and others, like Malla Manor that have been left to decay. Malla Manor was previously owned by a Finnish couple who bought it in the late 1990s for one million crowns (64,000€). Many manor houses are also for sale, and asking prices are not as high as you might think. Malla Manor did go for close to the asking price of 960,000 euros, but other manors on smaller plots of land can be purchased for much less. If you have any Bitcoins lying around, why not?
Estonia did not have much of a winter at all this year. We had a few weeks of snow in January, where the temperature dropped down below minus twenty degrees Celsius. The weather then warmed up, and the better part of March saw spring-like temperatures and sunny days. It was so warm that they even had to cancel the annual Tartu Marathon for lack of snow. It’s nice to have the longer days now, meaning there are more daylight hours for you to explore Tallinn and Estonia. In this month’s guide, we look at spring festivals, like the annual Student & Spring Days in Tartu. Hungry or thirsty? Turn to our restaurant page for a look at Tallinn’s medieval restaurants, as well as Estonia’s craft brewers and where to try some local ale.
Contents 3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing
Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief
April Highlights 01 GENESIS COMES BACK TO LIFE Steve Hackett brings 1970s nostalgia of Phil Collins and Peter Gabriel to the Nokia Concert Hall on April 28th. The guitar legend promises to play many of Genesis’ top hits during his two-hour concert.
8-9 restaurants: 'medieval dining in Tallinn's old town; Estonian craft beer and where to try it; Dimitri Haljukov, Estonia's Bocuse d'Or candidate
02 QUALITY RAP IN TALLINN The four-time Grammy award winning rapper Nelly will perform at the Saku Suurhall on April 10th. This will be Nelly’s first concert in the Baltics. Tickets are available from Piletilevi, starting at €39.
03 WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN
10-11 nightlife 12-13 shopping 14 outside of Tallinn 15 beauty 16 April events 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information
“Give new life” (Anna uus elu) is an exhibit about what can be done with used objects to recycle them. See, for example, dresses made from parachutes, and baskets woven from newspapers. The exhibit is open until April 13th at the Pärnu Museum of Contemporary Art.
04 TERRIFYING THRILLS The Haapsalu Horror and Fantasy Film Festival brings horror, fantasy, and sci-fi films from all over the world to Estonia. Haapsalu Cultural Centre 24-27 April. Read more about this event on page 16.
05 SPRING & STUDENT DAYS IN TARTU
Tartu turns into a student party town from April 28 to May 4 during the Tartu Spring and Student Days. The event is a mix of parties, concerts, and fun. Read more about this event on page 14.
Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp firstname.lastname@example.org Contributors: Maarja-Liisa Mahla Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress
Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: email@example.com Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur tel +372 58 502 477
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PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O
'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 4
Photo: T. Tuul
Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.
Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.
Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1.
Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.
Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.
Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.
Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.
Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels
St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.
The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”
Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.
Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour
Town Hall Square
Kiek in de kök
A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.
Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guide by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.
■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use to Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget the swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www. tallinncard.ee
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 4
ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.
Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).
A quick history of the city of Tallinn
Outside of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .
Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.
Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.
1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.
by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.
Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.
The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).
1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.
Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:
1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.
■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070
St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.
TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu
1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.
■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla
■ Currency Exchange
Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI
Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.
Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.
Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.
Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.
Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day
The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.
2013/2014 School Holidays Christmas break 21 December, 2013 5 January, 2014 Spring break 15-23 March, 2014 Summer break 6 June - 31 August, 2014
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 4
■ Papa Joe’s Falafel
This popular Mediterranean seafood restaurant has moved around Tallinn, living in many locations over the past few years. Now you can find them in the Old Town on Pikk Street, where you can enjoy mainly seafood dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisines. Go there for some tapas and share a bottle of wine, or for a full meal. The desserts are divine, with an interesting twist on a cheese course as well. The Brillat Savarin cheese with honey and rosemary was the perfect end to our meal.
Tallinn’s favourite falafel place is now serving meat. The menu has expanded to include chicken skewers, a shish tawouk wrap, a grilled halloumi and tawouk wrap, oven baked kebbe, and more. They have even added a couple of tables inside, so you have somewhere to sit until it’s warm enough to enjoy a kebab outside again. All of Papa Joe’s dips are house made, and you can take a container or two home to try as well.
Pikk 30, Tallinn Old Town G2.
Sadama 25-4, Tallinn (inside the Sadama Market) A3.
Contemporary food in a medieval setting at Maikrahv.
Candlelit dining at Olde Hansa.
Candlelight, clay bowls, and spiced meats Are all characteristics of the medieval dining experience. Tallinn’s Old Town is the place to come and eat like its 1450.
medieval TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
■ III Draakon III Draakon, or The Third Dragon is a tiny medieval café/tavern in Tallinn’s Town Hall. This is great place to grab a light and cheap lunch in a medieval atmosphere. The room is candlelit, making it quite dark inside, but with the weather warming up, you can sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy a great view over the Town Hall Square. The menu is small, offering a selection of sweet or savoury pasties, and elk soup. Drinks are served in clay cups, poured from casks in the wall. Staff is dressed in medieval costume, and play the part very well too!
■ Maikrahv Directly opposite the Town Hall is Maikrahv, another Medievalthemed restaurant, but offering an international and more contemporary menu. The restaurant is named after the “May Count” festivals that were held in medieval Tallinn to celebrate spring, youth, and happiness. The menu focuses on meat, with a few vegetarian dishes and pasta as well. Larger groups can book one of Maikrahv’s feasts, which are a true spectacle. Enjoy large portions without spending a fortune.
■ Olde Hansa Olde Hansa has been bringing the medieval experience to Tallinn since 1997. The restaurant is located on the site of the old central market. The menu is made
up of dishes that have been carefully researched from historical recipes. The dining room is lit by candlelight and servers are dressed in medieval costume. Olde Hansa also has a gift shop Krambude, located on the street level of their building where you can buy anything from jewellery and clothing, to glassware, and Olde Hansa’s famous sweet almonds that can always be smelled roasting outside.
■ Peppersack Peppersack can be found just across the street from Olde Hansa, in a multi level medieval building. The menu at Peppersack is European influenced, but worded very playfully with dishes like Artisan’s dream (beef tenderloin) or Matron Margareta`s weakness (chicken breast). And don’t forget the nightly entertainment – sword fights. Peppersack also has an interesting variety of beers on tap, including their very own brews. ■
III Draakon is tucked away inside Tallinn's Town Hall.
Peppersack has a selection of their own beers on tap.
III Draakon (The Third Dragon) Raekoja plats 1 (Town Hall), Tallinn Old Town, H2. Maikrahv Raekoja plats 8, Tallinn Old Town, H2. Olde Hansa Vana turg 1, Tallinn Old Town, H2. Peppersack Viru 2, Tallinn Old Town, H2.
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■ ENZO Café & Restaurant
■ Lautarii Moldovan Tavern
The Port area of Tallinn is growing steadily, with new restaurants slowly popping up along the harbour. Among these is the new restaurant and café ENZO. ENZO is advertised as an ideal place for business breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. The café side is more casual and offers a breakfast and lunch menu. The breakfast menu offers a create-your-own omelette option, eggs Benedict, pancakes, potato cakes with fish roe, and well you get the idea. They serve breakfast beyond a croissant and coffee.
While we haven’t had a chance to go and try this new Moldovan restaurant, we have heard nothing but good things from friends and readers that have gone. The focus here is definitely on meat, and the steak prices were quite reasonable for a restaurant located in the city centre on the outskirts of the Old Town. Vegetarians won’t be disappointed either, there are plenty of salads and veggie options too.
Laeva 2, Tallinn A3
Uus 25, Tallinn Old Town G3.
Estonia at the Bocuse d’Or To make it to the competition in Lyon in 2015, Estonia must first make it into the top twelve in Sweden this May.
fine dining TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS LAURI LAAN
Competing this year for Estonia is chef Dmitri Haljukov from Cru restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town. At the end of March Haljukov spent a few days training in Sweden with top chef Jonas Lundgren. Lundgren brought home the silver medal for Sweden in the 2009 Bocuse d’Or competition.
Haljukov preparing the pre-dessert.
History The Bocuse d’Or cooking competition has been challenging the world’s chefs since 1987. The competition is named after the legendary French chef Paul Bocuse. Estonia will be taking part in
the competition for the fourth time. Estonia has made it to the finals twice: in 2009, when Vladislav Djatšuk won 15th place, and in 2013, when Heidi Pinnak received 14th place, out of 64 participants.
He has worked in many Michelin star restaurants around the world, and two years ago, he opened a restaurant in Stockholm under his name. Haljukov has been training with Lundgren for half a year now. Chefs must use coalfish (Pollock), and oysters and mussels from Bélon for the fish course. The competitor can choose the remainder of the ingredients, and whether the dish is to be served warm or cold. The meat course must use Swedish pork, and will be carried out on a special platter designed by an Estonian metal designer. Cru restaurant is serving Dimitri Haljukov’s Bocuse d’Or menu, where you can come and get a taste of what will be served in Stockholm in May. The set menu can be tasted together with or without wine pairings. Particularly interesting was
the sea buckthorn and langoustine bisque with fennel ravioli, and the pre-dessert, a creamy goat’s cheese with raspberry dust and beetroot meringue. ■
Try some locally brewed beer at Kochi Ait.
Small breweries are taking over While Estonia’s biggest breweries are looking to export their beers, smaller, craft breweries are growing quickly. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
Three main craft breweries have popped up over the last few years: Sillamäe Õlletehas, the Old Town brewpub Beerhouse, and Pihtle Õlu from Saaremaa. Last year, the Kochi Ait Brewery in the Port district of Tallinn started production, along with Põhjala Brewery, as well as Õllenaut in Saue. Põhjala has produced their beers in the Genika
Beermasters rooms, but will open their own brewery in Nõmme. The Genika rooms are located in Jüri. At New Year’s Raba Pruulikoda made their beer available for tasting. This however was prepared elsewhere. Vormsi Õlu, despite being located in Koeru, is just starting productions. At the beginning of 2014, Lehe Pruulikoda, in Keila produced their first three types of beers. ■
Estonia’s small breweries and where to buy them in Tallinn:
Creamy goat's cheese with raspberry dust and beetroot meringue
■ Brewery-Restaurant Beer House, Dunkri 5. Seven different lagers. ■ Brewery Restaurant Kochi Ait, Lootsi 10. Six different beers: lagers, pilsners, wheat beer, ale and bock. ■ Põhjala Brewery. Available at Pudel (Telliskivi 60A) in spring 2014 for as long as they last, including wheat beer, chilli, and chocolate flavoured stout. Their new brewery will open soon. ■ Õllenaut. Many different kinds of beers. Available in most grocery stores. ■ Lehe Brewery. Three different
beers. Will be on the market soon. ■ Genika Õllemeistrid. Three different beers. Unfiltered and unpasteurised beers. ■ Raba Pruulikoda. One beer for sale at Kraan, Mustamäe tee 116. ■ Pihtla Õlu. Strong homebrewed beer available at Põrgu. (Rüütli 4). ■ Linnamäe Õlletehas. Available on tap from Teater, Teatriväljak 3. Estonian craft beers are available for sale in Tartu from Õllepood Nr. 1, Rüütli 18.
10 April Gig Guide ■ Tantsuparadiis/Tantsevalnij Raj: Savage @ Club Hollywood (Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2, 04.04.2014, tickets start from 15 € ■ Ayah Marar @ Rock Cafe (Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn C4), 10.04.2014, tickets start from 9,90 €
■ TJUUN IN – DJ Marky @ Sinilind (Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town, H3), 11.04.2014, tickets start from 6 € ■ Billy’s Band @ Factory (Madari 22A, Tallinn), 11.04.2014, tickets start from 25 €
■ ContrasT @ Factory (Madari 22A, Tallinn), 12.04.2014, tickets start from 15 € ■ KOSMIKUD + (Psychoterror) @ Rock Cafe (Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn C4), 18.04.2014, tickets start from 10 €
When you've colourful nigh
It wasn’t such a lon but now it’s time to put ly here! The whole city with each passing day. ■ PUDEL BAAR Pudel Baar serves the best beers from different corners of the world and is one of the most unique beerbars in Estonia. The Telliskivi area is known as the favourite place for artsy, so it definitely has trendy style and cosy atmosphere. It’s a nice place to chill with friends before hitting the clubs or just to relax and enjoy good company.
Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn, A1.
There is always something fun going on at Pööning.
Popular is one of my own personal favourite bar-restaurants in Tallinn. In the daytime, it’s a great place to grab something to eat (at a reasonable price) but later in the evening it changes into this cosy, yet lively bar with comfy sofas, good music and nice flavours of shisha (arguably one of the best hookah bars in Tallinn). Every now and then, they will throw some great parties and it has a convenient location in the Old Town. Tables can be reserved as well.
Popular is one of the best Hookah bars in Tallinn.
Vana-Viru 6, Tallinn Old Town, H3.
Visit Kultuurikatel for something a little different.
Local suggestions ■ KOHVIK SINILIND
■ VON KRAHL BAR
■ PAAR VEINI
Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town, H3.
Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town, H1.
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town, I2.
y favourite nightspot in Tallinn is Kohvik Sinilind with it’s great live concerts and interesting people. The atmosphere of the place is really different and unique with a little touch of vintage. It’s definitely a place for a great night out!” STINA, AGE 25
on Krahl Bar is next to a well known theatre house that was founded in 1992, and is a favourite place for alternative bands and crowds. Ticket prices vary from free to 5 euros and many great Estonian artists often play there. Definitely worth visiting!” OLIVER, AGE 28
aar Veini is a really popular wine bar among the young, trendy locals. The atmosphere isn’t too fancy, as wine bars tend to be. It’s a nice place to chill with friends before hitting the clubs or just relax and enjoy good company.” JOHANNA, AGE 25
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discover Tallinn's to e m ti 's it , ts h g si ee e seen all the must-s rja-Liisa Mahla tells you about the Maa htlife. Tallinn native unges in town! lo d n a s, b lu c s, b u p best gigs,
Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:
into Tallinn's nightlife!
ng time ago when I suggested you find your winter coats, them away again as the most beautiful time of the year is finaly starts to blossom and the streets will be more and more crowded With the new energy in the air, it’s the perfect time to discover Tallinn’s unique nightlife hotspots! ■ KULTUURIKATEL Kultuurikatel (or in English “Culture Cauldron”) is an old power plant that serves as a venue for theatre, art performances and music concerts. It has a big garden around it that is very popular when the weather warms up, where you can enjoy a couple of beers or cocktails. It’s not a typical tourist trap and if you seek a little bit culture or just something completely different then go check it out!
Gay Sports Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.
Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Sakala 24, Tallinn B2.
G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn.
X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn.
Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.
Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.
Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.
Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.
Cigar Lounges Chicago 1933
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.
The Bank Club 777
La Casa del Habano
Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3.
Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.
Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.
CatHouse Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.
Estonian Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.
Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.
Pudel has the best selection of beers from across the globe.
Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.
Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.
Põhja puiestee 27A, Tallinn, A2.
Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.
This little bar is located quite far away from the Old Town but definitely worth a visit! You can say it’s a bit underground and more popular among a younger crowd, although everybody is welcome. There is always something going on at Pööning – they throw board game nights, karaoke nights, stand up comedies, 80s parties, costume parties, and more so you will never be bored. I love this place – it’s not trying too hard to be something it’s not. Everything about Pööning is chill and carefree and it’s a wonderful place to make new friends!
NYC Piano Bar
Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2. Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.
Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.
Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.
Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1.
Akadeemia 24, Tallinn .
■ ST. PATRICK’S There are five different locations in Tallinn. The most recent one is in Pirita with an amazing sea view to watch a sunset, and others around the town centre and Old Town. St. Patrick’s offers you a nice meal with a low price and a great selection of drinks. It’s not exactly a “real“ Irish pub but definitely a nice place to go if you want to grab something to eat, throw a warm-up party or just get together with friends for a drink or two.
Suur-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town, I2. Vana-Posti 7, Tallinn Old Town, I2. Narva mnt 5, Tallinn, B2.
Pärnu mnt 29, Tallinn, B2. Merivälja tee 5, Tallinn. ■
The pop band Traffic has been on the Estonian music scene since 2006, when their first single “Kallis ära küsi” gained wide popularity on the radio charts. Since then, they have released two studio albums
and many successful singles. Most of their songs are in Estonian and will always have this special place in the hearts of Estonians. If you want to have a true Estonian music experience, you should give it a go!
Shopping Shoppin The Roterm Salon quality hair products at Hairmail.
ABC King opens flagship store in Viru Keskus The popular shoe store ABC King will open the doors to its flagship store in Viru Keskus. The store will now carry more brand name shoes in a larger location on the second floor of Viru Keskus in Tallinn’s city centre. ABC King closed the doors to its previous Viru Keskus location in March. Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2
NEW! Sinine Salong Spa Regular clients from Estonia and abroad have been coming to Sinine Salong for years, so many in fact, that they had to expand. In December, a second spa location opened right next door in the Postimaja Shopping Centre. The new spa features couples rooms, and a spa lounge, where guests can enjoy tea and light snacks, or for a truly indulgent experience, a glass of champagne! Some new treatments have been added to the long list of services already offered by Sinine Salong, like a hot stone pedicure or the stress buster massage, three massages in one. The new spa is also childfree, meaning you must be at least 16 to enter. This ensures total relaxation and quiet. Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
A.G.A.N Map of Old Town
Flowers & Wine This new shop, which just opened recently in the suburb of Uus Maailm, must the best place to stop before going to a dinner party. Here you can buy fresh cut flowers or small potted plants, along with a bottle of wine. And what’s even better is that they claim their wine selection is 50% cheaper than everywhere else. Elisabet Aias & eDrinks 80 Pärnu mnt, Tallinn
Location Rotermann Quarter is located in Tallinn’s city centre, close to the Old Town. The area can be easily accessed by foot, car (underground parking available off of Ahtri), by bus, or by tram. Rotermann is a short walk (3-5 minutes) from the Port. Estonian Architecture Museum, Ahtri 2, Tallinn. Coca-Cola Plaza, Hobujaama 5, Tallinn.
Rotermann Quarter is a grouping of old industrial buildings that have been renovated, with a few new buildings mixed in, and now stand in one of the most stylish areas of Tallinn. The area is filled with hip restaurants, trendy fashion shops, and more! This historical neighbourhood underwent rapid development in the 19th century, and quickly became an area filled with many factories, and stores. Some of these unique buildings are still standing today. The Rotermann Salt Store, for example, was built in 1908 and was designed by the Baltic German engineer Ernst Boustedt. It has now been placed under heritage protection and currently houses the Estonian Architecture Museum.
The kitchen at Spanish restaurant Alter Ego.
Want to see a film? The Coca Cola Plaza is a multiplex cinema with 11 screens and is located in the Rotermann Quarter too. Most films in Estonia are screened in their original languages with Estonian and/or Russian subtitles. ■
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g Spotlight: mann Quarter
Shopping in Tallinn ■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.
■ Central Shopping
Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.
Hungry? Or Thirsty? Restaurants & Specialty Food Shops ■ Alter Ego, Roseni 8, Tallinn ■ Kork Wine Bar & Shop, Rotermanni 5, Tallinn ■ Restoran Platz, Roseni 7, Tallinn ■ Sushihouse, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, Tallinn ■ Usbekistan, Rotermanni 5, Tallinn ■ Juustukuningad, Rotermanni 5, Tallinn ■ Rein Kasela Veinituba (Wine shop), Rotermanni 12, Tallinn
Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.
■ A bit further out
Shop ‘till you drop! The Rotermann Quarter is a shopper’s paradise – for both brand names and Estonian design. Here’s a look at some of the shops you will find: ■ 2.MOOD – This is a shop for true fashionistas. If you like brand names, but want something unknown and unique, this is the place to come. ■ A.G.A.N – This shop specialises in Estonian fashion designs by young designers. You never know what you will find! ■ Bershka – Fashion for young people, including clothing, shoes, and accessories.
■ Guess – The well-known international fashion brand has a shop in Rotermann Quarter, selling this season’s bags, shoes, clothing, and accessories. ■ Hairline – This is the one-stopshop for your hair. Find top name, quality hair care products and accessories. ■ Kalev Chocolate Shop & Sweets Mastery – Come and try your hand at making sweets, or bring some ready-made chocolates home. Kalev is the oldest and largest sweets company in Estonia,
founded in 1806 under the name Estonia. ■ Norr11 – Norr11 specialises in Scandinavian design furniture and home accessories. Come in, have a browse and be inspired. ■ Premium Fashion Outlet – Find 30-50% off this year’s styles and 50-70% off last year’s clothing and accessories, including items from top brands like Armani Collezioni, Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith, Tru Trussardi, Valentino, Versace Collection, Kenzo, And More!
Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city. Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed
in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.
■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.
Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.
■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3. Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25.
outside of Tallinn
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Student and Spring Days in Tartu 28 April – 4 May TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS EAS
The main building at the University of Tartu.
Academic Tartu Tartu is the second largest town in Estonia with a population of about 100,000. It is the cradle of the Estonian Song Festival, Estonian theatre and the Estonian state. It is often referred to as the city of good thoughts; and no doubt, new ideas
are sprawling and bubbling in the auditoriums, laboratories, and in the minds of students. Because of its dynamic development and innovative atmosphere, Tartu University is attracting an ever-growing number of foreign students and researchers.
The annual Tartu Student and Spring Days is real proof that spring has arrived. The city centre is taken over by students putting on entertaining cultural and sporting events, all mixed with a bit of humour and intellectual sharpness. Don’t miss the boat race, one of the most anticipated events of the festival. It takes place along the Emajõgi River, which runs through the middle of town. Spirits are high, in spite of the strong currents and ice-cold waters. The fun is really in the eye-catching vessels, made out of anything that floats or doesn’t float. One’s imagination is the only limit when it comes to the construction of the vessels. If you prefer to stay dry, warm, and on land, enjoy the student market, song festival or one of many pub rallies. Tartu’s history dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 when the university was established. Since then, Tartu has become a student’s city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of Tartu’s most well known land-
Students in traditional folk costume.
marks include the Emajõgi River, which flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the university’s main building with its distinguished columns, and of course the “kissing students” in the Town Hall Square fountain. ■
How to get there? Tartu is located 190 km southeast of Tallinn. By air via Helsinki (Finnair/FlyBe). By bus from Tallinn: www.tpilet.ee By train from Tallinn: www.elron.ee Pärnu is located 130km southwest of Tallinn.
Tartu Jaani Church
Spring in Pärnu
A healing mud treatment.
Pärnu is by far the most popular vacation destination in Estonia. Its name, ”The Summer Capital of Estonia,” already gives this away. It’s not too early in the season to visit the long sandy beaches, beautiful parks and small cafés, even though it may still be a little chilly. If you want to stay indoors, then this is perfect time to visit one of the many spas in Pärnu, especially for a healing mud treatment. Did you know that tourists have been coming to visit Estonian spas for years, especially for the healing properties of the therapeutic mud? Estonian healing mud treats rheumatism, improves blood circulation, soothes sore muscles, but most importantly it is relaxing. Mud treatments were also popular during the Soviet per-
iod. In the 1980s, approximately 300,000 tourists visited the resort town of Pärnu, of which 25,000 visited spas. Freshwater therapeutic mud contains hydrogen sulphide, meaning that there is mild odour of rotten eggs. The treatment is performed usually as a wrap, where you lie down on a table on top of a blanket and are then covered in warm mud (41-45 C) and wrapped up. While the mud does not feel particularly hot at first, after a while you begin to sweat. ■
Location Tervis Medical Spa, Seedri 6, Pärnu Visit the Estonian Spa Association website for a full listing of spas in Estonia.
Pärnu is Estonia's summer capital.
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Tallinn’s Favourite Mani-Pedis We asked Tallinn locals and ex-pats what their favourite nail salons were and here’s what they said. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Everyone knows that prices in Tallinn are relatively cheap when compared to Scandinavia and Finland, and the same goes for manicures and pedicures. Estonia’s capital has top-quality service, and all the brand name products you are used to at home, if you know where to go. Local Tallinn ladies were happy to share their favourite salons, both for price and for quality with our readers.
■ Nail Spa
Classic red is still a top choice for your toes.
Narva mnt 9, Tallinn B3.
The Nail Spa uses both Opi and ProNail products. ProNail is a well-trusted European brand, and offers both classic and gel polishes. While the classic manicure does take a bit longer, you can enjoy a hand soak, exfoliation, and massage. Then, choose from a selection of classic and modern colours for your polish. Classic manicures start at 12 (Quick manicure), gel manicures start at 23, classic pedicures start at 28, and gel pedicures start at 35.
luses, or warts, this is the pedicure for you. It’s a great way to get your feet back in shape before the summer season. “It is important that people not feel embarrassed to come in,” says Marge, pedicure technician, after telling me about a woman that had trimmed her toenails before coming to the salon. “When you come in, we treat your problems, and tell you how to care for your feet at home.”
■ i3 Viru Ilusalong
Liivalaia 40, Tallinn B3
Sokos Viru Hotel 3rd floor Viru väljak 4 Tallinn Map Code B2.
The i3 Viru Ilusalong inside the Viru Hotel offers a pedicure for problematic feet. While a little bit more expensive then the rest (55, 1.5 hours), if you have dry or cracked skin, ingrown nails, cal-
■ Ilusalong Gersi Stiilistuudio Gersi Stiilistuudio also offers manicures and pedicures. Gel nails have grown in popularity over the past few years because of their durability. At Gersi, they use Bio Sculpture Gel, a gel that has been tried, tested, and voted at the top of its category in maga-
Other local favourites: ■ Pikk 40 Pikk 40, Tallinn Old Town F2. Manicures starting at €20; Pedicures starting at €29. ■ Thai Style Ilusalong Tartu mnt 28, Tallinn B3. Manicures starting at €25; Pedicures starting at €28. ■ Talente Ilusalong A. Lauteri 5, Tallinn B2. Manicures starting at €10; Pedicures starting at €23.
The Nail Spa is a popular choice among locals.
zines like Scratch. Bio Sculpture Gel contains the same vitamins and minerals found in your nails. Instead of simply putting a layer of polish on your nail that will inevitably scratch and chip with daily activity, Bio Sculpture Gel moves with your nail, meaning that it will stay on your nail longer. Gel manicures start at 39. ■
34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 A beautiful smile creates new opportunities!
LUMEN DENTAL CLINIC more than 20 years of solid experience in dentistry!
Sizes 34-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-16
Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn
Tel. +372 641 6440
Viimsi SPA +372 60 11 812 email@example.com www.lumen.ee
april events Photo: Jaak Nilson
■ Tallinn Star Weekend 2014 For the second year in a row major music stars will take to the stage for two nights of unforgettable music. Day one: 27 June is Rock Day, Eurovision winners Lordi (FIN), Leningrad Band (RUS), and MTV Music Award winner The Offspring will perform one impressive show! Day two: 28 June is Red Carpet Day, Andrea Bocelli, the Italian tenor will bring his unique charisma to the stage for an elegant evening. Tickets on sale now! 27-28 June Tallinn Song Festival Grounds
■ Song and Dance Celebration The Song Festival is not a matter of fashion; the Song Festival is a matter of the heart. – Lennart Meri Every five years the Song and Dance Celebration is organised. This year’s theme is “Touched by Time. The Time to Touch.” 187,800 spectators attended the last Song and Dance Celebration and 35,320 performers took part. The Estonian Song and Dance Celebration is on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. One of the top moments of the Song and Dance Celebration is the procession through the city. Participants dressed in traditional folk costume walk, dance, play, and sing. Tens of thousands of spectators line the streets. 4-6 July, Tallinn
■ Event and Concert Tickets
HOFF brings spring!
Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2
Andres Mustonen and his jazz quartet will play with trumpetist Avishai Cohen (Israel) on April 22 at the Marina Pavilion.
A scene from the opening film "You're Next" by Adam Wingard and Simon Barrett.
The biggest genre film festival in the Baltics takes place in Haapsalu from 24-27 April, bringing horror, fantasy, and sci-fi films to Estonia. The Horror and Fantasy Film Festival or HÕFF brings the best, most daring and original films of this genre from the last two years together into one festival. But don’t worry, there will also be a separate programme for cult
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Jazzkaar 2014 classics. Twenty-two full-length feature films will be screened, and together with the short films, festival visitors will be able to see over 30 films during the festival. The opening film is a comedic thriller by American filmmakers Adam Wingard and Simon Barrett entitled You’re Next. A three person international jury will judge the short films at
HÕFF. The best film will win the Silver Méliès in Haapsalu, and a nominee will be selected for the Gold Méliès, which will be awarded later at the Sitges Film Festival in September. ■
This international jazz festival is the biggest of its kind in the Baltics. In 2014, the Festival will celebrate its 25th birthday. Jazzkaar brings together some of the biggest and most interes-
ting acts to Tallinn. The ten day festival takes place from 18-27 April. Tickets available at Piletilevi. Visit the festival website for full programme details. ■ Photo: EAS
Visit the HÕFF website for full programme details. Tickets available from Piletilevi. 24-27 April, Haapsalu
Pärnu Day Pärnu Day 5 April, Pärnu
Pärnu Day began two years ago when the Estonian beach town celebrated its 760th birthday. Since then it has become a popular event for both residents and visitors. Pärnu Day introduces the city’s history and culture through a series of events and entertainment for the whole family. The main event takes place in the Sports Hall, but other events will take place in the city centre, Rüütli Square, Munamägi Hill, and other locations around town. ■
Pärnu's historical Old Town
WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!
An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia Bread making at HĂ¤rjapea Farm on April 4 - 6 Easter on April 20 St Georgeâ€™s Day on April 23 Spring Fair and Big Sauna Day on May 1 horse and carriage rides, village shop from the 1930s, Estonian national food at the inn. Open daily at 10-17, from April 23 at 10-20 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. VabaĂľhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.
-20% -50% -70% PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043
DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356./5 5"--*//rXXXDPOUNPEBFF 5FM r0QFO.PO'SJ 4BU
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)
Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20
Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18
Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17
Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)
Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18
Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17
Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)
Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30
Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18
Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30
Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18
KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16
Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum) Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15
Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)
Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18
Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19
Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)
Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)
Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)
Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)
Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30
Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.
■ Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18
TEXT TOMAS ALEXANDERSSON, PHOTO INTOURIST POSTCARDS, TALLINN, 1980
Tallinn’s historical Old Town is the best starting point for some serious sightseeing. There, you will be surrounded by the city’s pulsing centre and many other attractive sites like creative culture centres in abandoned Soviet factories with trendy art galleries, cafés and shops. But has Tallinn always offered such a range of sightseeing options? What did tourists do when the factories were still running on full and the Old Town not yet a UNESCO World Heritage Site? According to the many Soviet tourist guidebooks, Tallinners were crazy about the city’s green gown. A tourist was supposed to see the flowers, buy flowers, smell flowers – you name it! The “flower-power” was unavoidable. The same thing could be said about the statues and war memorial sites. They had quite an important task to perform – teaching tourists about the Soviet
Old Observatory (Tähetorn)
Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)
Tallinn Sightseeing: Then & Now
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)
Tallinn City Museum branch museums: includes the following
Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18
City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum) Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17
■ Art Museums & Galleries
Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00
Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18
Union’s heroes, pride and honour. Another show-off was the so called “new town”, meaning Tallinn’s suburbs. They were all proudly presented in the guidebooks showing their modern look, amenities and facilities. And, if a tourist needed a drink, they just had to visit any of Tallinn’s famous cafés. According to the guidebooks, a visit to a café is a must and a national custom! Last but not least, no tourist could say no to the Song & Dance Festivals in Estonia. Today, these celebrations and traditions are among the best trademarks of Estonia, and have played an important role in Estonian history. In the guidebooks, the festivals are explained as a national holiday for the USSR, but nowadays it is back to being a celebration for the Republic of Estonia. This year, the Song and Dance Festivals will take places in Tallinn from July 4-6. Tomas Alexandersson, otherwise known as The Tallinn Collector runs a website that collects images from Soviet-era guidebooks to Tallinn. ■
1 CITY MUSEUMĂƚϭϳ͕sĞŶĞ^ƚƌĞĞƚ dŚĞdĂůůŝŶŶŝƚǇDƵƐĞƵŵŝƐŚŽƵƐĞĚŝŶĂŵĞĚŝĞǀĂů ŵĞƌĐŚĂŶƚ͛ƐĚǁĞůůŝŶŐŝŶƚŚĞĐĞŶƚƌĞŽĨƚŚĞKůĚdŽǁŶ͘ tĞĚͲDŽŶϭϬ͘ϯϬരĂŵͲϲരƉŵ 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK Ö and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road 3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a ĐŚŝďŝƟŽŶŽƉĞŶƉƌŝůdƵĞͲ^ƵŶϭϭ͘ϯϬരĂŵരͲϳരƉŵ &dƵĞͲdŚƵϭϭ͘ϯϬĂŵͲϵ͘ϬϬƉŵ͕&ƌŝͲ^Ăƚϭϭ͘ϯϬĂŵͲϭϬƉŵ ĐŚŝďŝƟŽŶŽƉĞŶDĂǇDŽŶͲ^ƵŶϭϬ͘ϯϬരĂŵരͲϳരƉŵ &DŽŶͲ^ƵŶϭϬ͘ϯϬĂŵͲϭϬ͘ϬϬƉŵ 4 PHOTO MUSEUMĂƚϰͬϲZĂĞŬŽũĂ^ƚƌĞĞƚ͕ 5 CHILDREN’S MUSEUMĂƚϭϲ͕<ŽƚǌĞďƵĞ^ƚƌĞĞƚ 6 HOUSE OF PETER IĂƚϮ͕DćĞŬĂůĚĂ^ƚƌĞĞƚ ϳ MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c͕<ŽŝĚƵůĂ^ƚƌĞĞƚ Colourful theme museum for children tƌŝƚĞƌƐ͛ŵƵƐĞƵŵƐǁŝƚŚĂƵƚŚĞŶƟĐŝŶƚĞƌŝŽƌƐ͗ 8 ͘ര,͘രdDD^ZDh^hD at 12a͕<ŽŝĚƵůĂ^ƚƌĞĞƚ 9 ͘രs/>Dh^hDĂƚϯ͕ZŽŚĞůŝŶĞĂƐ
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 4
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati
Sitsi Lõime Angerja
PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta
Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7
Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe
1 2 3 4
Balti jaam Telliskivi
Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi
Kolde puiestee Ädala
Humala Looga Mustjõe
Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu
KADRIORG 1, 3
Paberi Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja
Majaka 2, 4
Pae Majaka põik
VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE
■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.
J. Poska Mere pst
From the driver
4 7 5
A. H. Tammsaare tee
MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5
Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee
1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days
€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23
from the driver from kiosks from post oﬃces online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)
TALLINN CITY TOUR
Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 diﬀerent languages. Hop On Hop Oﬀ - bus tickets valid for 24h on three diﬀerent lines.
■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card 6-118-000
11-800 (+€0.74 / min)
KOPLI KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
Where to buy
The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.
Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee
Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.
Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.
■ Useful Phrases please..................................................... palun thank you ............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me ............................................ vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning .................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening ..................................... tere õhtust good night ........................................... head ööd goodbye ............................................... nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip................................. head reisi bon appetite ....................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks
How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?
H EE BB AA LL TT II CC GG U U II D D EE ™™ AA PP RR II LL 22 00 11 44 TT H
Photo: Margus Johanson
■ Getting to and from Tallinn
■ By bus:
■ Phone calls
Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee
There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.
■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will ﬁnd free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wiﬁ.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.
■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis
From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23
Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.
■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2
Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com
There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■
Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee
■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town
Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.
Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.
DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,58 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mon - Fri 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ■ Bt air: i
OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,15 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.
CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,26 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mon - Fri 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays
For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn
Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.
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ÂŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300
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The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...
Published on Apr 1, 2014
The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...