A TEXTILES SCOTLAND PUBLICATION
SIZZLING COLOUR FOR SPRING/SUMMER 12
SPLENDID PRINTS WITH ATTITUDE
SHINING STARS FROM SCOTLAND
FASHION S/S 12
contents 3 4 6 12 14 20
Editor’s Note Welcome from Stewart Roxburgh Ten Must-Haves from Scotland Key gems of the season
Sizzling Colour A fusion of the bold and the beautiful A Fashionable Scot Interview with Global Scot: Brian Duffy, Ralph Lauren Splendid Prints With some serious Scottish attitude Bags of Talent An accessory to complement any outfit
22 30 32 36 38 44
Fashion Shoot Scottish couture styled to perfection Floral Fun Quality in bloom Classically Retro Pieces that will never go out of style A Shining Star Interview with designer, Holly Fulton
Ones to Watch Scots taking the fashion world by storm Why Saks Seek the Scots Words of wisdom from Saks Fifth Avenue’s Tom Ott
contributors
Anna Isola Crolla, Photographer, Main Fashion Shoot "With each M DH shoot comes the same enthusiasm from the team to create a series of images that best highlights desirable products from Scotland. SWG3 provided a contemporary backdrop for this shoot and allowed us to truly capture the quality and luxury of the pieces with our models looking uber cool and relaxed fulfilling my expectation for each image."
Chris Hunt, Creative Director & Stylist, Main Fashion Shoot “Managing the juxtaposition of Scottish design talent with our globally renowned manufacturers is an inspiring job which I love. M DH provides a brilliant platform for Scottish textiles and fashion to shine and demonstrate its varied and rounded offering, from the products and designs through to models and photography.”
Rob McDougall, Photographer, Additional Model & Product Images "As a photographer, I constantly strive to make the images I produce the best I can – whether I am photographing people or objects. Of course it helps when you are working with professional models and products which have been created by some of Scotland's most influential textiles companies and designers."
Thanks also to: Gary Lees and assistant Carlina for fabulous hair, using tecni.art by L'oreal Professionnel; Beverly McColgan @ model team for make-up using Illamasqua products on an airbrushed dewy skin by Airbase; Photographer’s assistant Solen & main shoot stylist’s assistant Leanne McGill from Genuine; and magazine assistants Bill Ranatunga and Lynne Heraghty, Weber Shandwick for a never-ending enthusiasm and patience! Front cover picture: Tara wears: Antler Headpiece by Obscure Couture; Begg Cashmere Sunray Scarf in Limoncello; Yellow Crepe Pullover Top with Nappa Leather Binding on Neckline by Claire McInally, A Layered Tulle Nude Skirt by Judy R Clark. Taken on location at SWG3, Glasgow by photographer Anna Isola Crolla.
EDITOR’S NOTE | 3
editor’s note From vibrant colour to fabulous prints, and classic styles to accessories, the Scottish textiles industry remains a wonderful one-stop-shop for every fashion need. We may not be known for our tropical climate but the sun is most definitely shining brightly on our industry this season. To be fair, we are probably best known for our Autumn/Winter collections and using our established skills with woollen and cashmere fibres to create the warmest of fabrics and pieces. However I think you will be pleasantly surprised by what you find in the following pages. The Scottish textiles industry has proved year after year, and for centuries, that it is flexible and adaptable. So when it comes to producing products for the Spring/Summer we can deliver. From lightweight tweeds and cashmere to ultra-soft cooling knits and accessories, the quality of our product remains unquestionable. And this season we have an explosion of colour – both vibrant and pastel – as well as intricate eye-catching prints and not forgetting the inspired finishing touches which add extra finesse.
In this edition we not only show you a snapshot of our offering but also have some heavyweight endorsement on what makes textiles from Scotland so special. Our interviews with Brian Duffy from leading brand Ralph Lauren and Tom Ott from the world-renowned Saks Fifth Avenue reinforce why we are such an important supplier to the fashion market. Led by an interview with one of the hottest talents in fashion right now – Holly Fulton, we have introduced our shining stars section. What a difficult choice that was with such an array of talent to choose from. We only wish we had more space to feature them all and have selected a top ten who have done themselves and Scotland proud recently. All are destined for great things. As always, please read, digest, enjoy and explore all we have to offer from Scotland this season.
Stewart Roxburgh, Editor Stewart is a Senior Executive, National Textiles Team, Scottish Enterprise.
one
2
4 | TEN MUST-HAVES
Clockwise from top right: Lat56º, Scottish Leather Group and Fraser Balgowan (Wild Scottish Red Deer Hide and Sporting Tweed).
iPad Cover The gadget of the moment deserves to be dressed in the best. So why not treat your trusted tablet to a luxurious cover in the finest Scottish leather or tweed. Or for the more adventurous, pick up one made of military-spec moulded EVA foam (exterior) with an interior made from velvet lined NASA-spec memory foam from Lat56°!
Block Colour Dress
Make a statement this season by wearing vibrant colour. It’s all about being seen, and fashionably so at that. Time to invest in that block colour dress like this stunning piece by one of our fave Scottish designers Henrietta Ludgate.
Hi-Top Heaven
three
ten must-haves.. We love, love, love, these Harris Tweed Hi-Tops from duo Jaggy Nettle. And they are now available in new bang-ontrend colours for S/S 12.
Sparkling Cashmere
4
One of the most luxurious fabrics in the world – cashmere – especially that made in Scotland. So how do you make it even more coveted? Add some dazzling Swarovski crystals like Belinda Robertson – divine!
Passionate Print
5
Animal, vegetable or mineral – whatever the inspiration there is no question that prints are a staple of this season’s wardrobe. So whether you are bold enough to go for it from top to toe or if you would rather have the printed accessory, like this 'Waveprint' scarf from Scalpay Linen there is an array of products on offer from Scotland this season.
TEN MUST-HAVES | 5
Harris Tweed Cap
7
six
Tweed is not just for winter you know! Oh yes, you can sport one of Scotland’s best loved fabrics the whole year through (just check out our Classically Retro feature later in the magazine). But our must have is this fab cap from Fabhatrix.
Bright Knits
Keeping you cool as well as cosy for those not so scorching days, we have beautiful knits and cashmeres in all colours available in Scotland this season. We particularly fell in love with this his & hers combo from Hawick Cashmere – for him a cashmere ‘Paddy Cardigan’ in Lacca and for her a cashmere 'Lacey Sleeveless Striped Top' in Lacca/Coral/Navy.
So much to choose from this season, but after some long deliberations here are our favourite picks from all on offer.
5
A Statement Bow
Scotland boasts some highly creative milliners which never fail to impress us, which you will see for yourself throughout the magazine. However this is just the cutest Red Satin and Red Lace Bow with Pearl Detail and Veil by Pea Cooper – very fifties glamour.
The Softest Sporran
ten
8 nine Pastel Socks
OK so many of us will re-introduce our feet to a bit of light during the season but who could resist slipping on a pair of these beautiful socks from the House of Cheviot when the sun goes down? Anyone? We didn’t think so!
The traditional dress from Scotland remains craft at its best and has done for centuries. Many will look to the ‘trouser alternative’ this season for weddings and formal events or maybe just to allow the air to flow freely. Whatever the reason no kilt can be without a sporran and look what we found! This Persian Lamb Sporran from Kiltpin is soft, fluffy and stylish – a definite conversation piece.
6 | SIZZLING COLOUR
Glitter Beach Bajan Sunset Catsuit, Scarf & Bikini in Hot Coral Shimmer.
co
SIZZLING COLOUR | 7
This season we will need our sunglasses for more than one reason (we hope)! The catwalks were awash with colour from vibrant, neon acid brights to the muted pastel shades. It would be hard not to find a colour that suits every complexion. Whether in chiffon, cotton, cashmere or wool – Quatur as demporpost, ipici que qui all odis Scotland’s mills and designers have stepped alia dolo everitiur sereper speruptaquia up to the new colour trends with style. The commolut occus enimincte verrum doluptis offering from couture, ready-to-wear and fabrics pa dolecturare nim acimusapitas accus all include fantastic mix of colours to choose dolum from. quuntem. Ut la is es perum reped quam cum eos alibus nimus nonsequi There are two main colour have blaccup tationsed mos et ettrends quiamwhich a embraced season’s – the vibrant corest quethis nonsedio. To catwalks dolum exerchillent and the mellow. The textiles industry ulpa doluptae aut amScottish inctor sunte volor has reacted to these in its usual sandige nducil im ad trends quam audam vent way ad responding enthusiastically to the new colour mos ma vendit faccus aut explamus iliae palettes with a Gaelic flut air.optas quis inctae nemporere ipiderrovit, num volendam iliquam quae magni con Tangerine is one the hottest this poressi nvenis et of doluptibus rae.colours Nequatiam season and has led many S/S 12 collections quidel inus magnim sequiatio et ent harum across the dolorior globe, from York toventi Milan, cum quias aut New adi ulpario London to Paris. Predicted one of aut the most remolorios sus debitate lauttoetbeereiunti popular colours of this season, its infl uence atusape lescid et es doloritam re et quunt can be seen across a number of the collections inctibus. from our designers – in everything from couture dresses to beachwear. Bus. Nulparciae derion pa sapicim agnatem quiducia as ium rectate mperchi ctatecuptio dicto maxim facia dendis de perupta tempore rumquid quid que volesed qui officitiur, te mil min est ommolorro esto eicit dolut ommo eni corporest, sae pa consequ atibus voluptas mostios endi opta
Extra Fine Merino, Wool, Silk & Linen Mix Lace Jacquard Scarf in Pink; Silk, Wool, Cashmere & Linen Mix Bold Weft Stripe Scarf in Blue and Extra Fine Merino Spray Dyed Scarf in Orange by Johnstons of Elgin.
sizzling
olour
8 | SIZZLING COLOUR
If tangerine isn’t the hue for you, there are other shades of orange – from sunset to amber – all of which are certain to get you ready for summer. Add to this bright turquoise, pinks, blues and yellows and we are definitely headed for some bright summer days full of must-beseen-in colours. In the past, men’s woollens have been associated with the more traditional colours of grey, brown, moss greens and blacks which comply with a fairly muted male look. However, using refined skills in knitwear and cashmere design a number of Scottish mills and designers have produced lightweight products in effervescent colours which are sure to get any man noticed this season. For example brightly coloured cashmere cardigans and vests made with the thinner single ply cashmere yarn are a simple
solution for boys looking to have a lighter weight and individual look in a bang-on-trend colour this season. The ladies will also not be disappointed as the coloured knits are also available in varying styles for the season. The lightweight dress is also a keen favourite on the market offering both cosy and cooling properties in bright colours like the Roam dress made from wild silk (pictured on page 10). Other companies in Scotland have produced accessories’ ranges which add the seasonal palette in a more subtle way. The ranges of scarves, hats and shoes offer a fun way of incorporating statement colour to complement most styles for those searching for something to suit their current wardrobe. Bright shoes add a splash of colour and get you noticed (like those from Emily Lamb pictured).
From top to bottom: Men's V-Neck 1 ply Cashmere Teague Cardigan in a 7 Colour Multi Stripe; Men's Crewneck 1 ply Cashmere Talbot Jumper in a 14 Colour Multi Stripe and Men's V-Neck 1 ply Cashmere Teague Cardigan in a 7 Colour Multi Stripe all from Hawick Cashmere.
SIZZLING COLOUR | 9
We are deďŹ nitely headed for some bright summer days full of must-be-seen-in colour
Emily Lamb Egidia Shoes.
10 | SIZZLING COLOUR
Roam Louis Sleeveless Dress, Yellow/Red with Aqua Trim (100% Wild Silk), Extra Fine Merino Spray Dyed Scarf in Orange by Johnstons of Elgin and Emily Lamb Petronilla Shoes.
SIZZLING COLOUR | 11
A Selection of Lambswool & Giza Cotton Sweaters in Delicate Pastel Shades by Hawick Knitwear.
Or elegant but contemporary coloured scarves and collars (like those from Johnstons of Elgin or Cari & Co pictured) will add pizzazz to a jacket on a colder spring or summer night. Whether you are daring enough to combine fluorescents from head to toe or just want to add a splash of this seasons’ colours, Scotland offers a number of options – so there is no excuse.
Some are also calling this the Sweetest Season with the candy-inspired lighter shades making the ‘pretty’ look command the catwalk. Scotland’s fashionable sweet shop offers beautiful cashmere, knits and fabrics in the softest candy colours. Icy hues of spearmint green, bitter lemon, damask rose and cool Glacier blue alongside more fifties inspired pretty mint greens and powder pinks with bonbon lemon dusts offer a subtler colour palette for discerning customers. There is plenty to get your taste buds tingling!
Scotland’s fashionable sweet shop offers beautiful cashmere, knits and fabrics in the softest colours Taffeta Silk Collars in Fuchsia Pink, Delicate Purple and Summer Green by Cari & Co.
12 | A FASHIONABLE SCOT
a fash Hailing from Glasgow, Brian has travelled the world, made some tough business decisions and been a key player offering the world Ralph Lauren’s philosophy of life. We caught up with the fashionable Scot to see what words of wisdom he could share from his career.
Sometimes we Scots can be shy – but we have much to shout about in the industry
What are the key attributes needed to work in the fast-paced fashion industry? You need to be quick on your feet, flexible, be interested in the customers and of course enjoy fashion. If you’re not in to people then fashion is not for you. What is your advice to anyone starting out in their career or indeed looking to further it? There is a wealth of education and training available now which people should consider to help them climb the ladder. Of course the hands-on business experience is vital too – learning about the business from the bottom up. Remember Ralph Lauren began his career selling at Brooks Brothers and Armani as a window dresser in La Rinascente. How do you engage with the right customers? If you look at strong brands and fashion businesses it’s clear that a core element is to know what you want to be, stick to it and build on it.
A FASHIONABLE SCOT | 13
Successfully tripling the sales of the European and Middle Eastern arm of one of the world’s most recognised brands while still having time to be the ‘Polo’ Band’s lead guitarist – you would be forgiven for envying Brian Duffy.
Hawick Cashmere Harmony dress, shown in Brume.
ionable scot What makes a successful global brand? Heritage, authenticity and craftsmanship are the fundamentals. You also need to have a very distinctive point of view of your brand and what you want it to do. It’s also important to strike a balance between design and manufacturing – they must work together and the production should never overshadow the creativity. How can Scottish designers/brands shine brighter on the global stage? Sometimes we Scots can be shy – but we have much to shout about in the industry. Tweeds, cashmere, Fair Isles, plaids are all known but we need to shout more about the skill behind the process and make it known this is made in Scotland, made by the best. Ralph Lauren has achieved phenomenal success with the brand – what is the secret? The success has come through brand vision, a consistent vision of timeless elegance across all the markets. And stay true to this vision no matter what. What are you most proud of in your career? The success I have had with Ralph Lauren, growing the business in to the Middle East and Eastern Europe, increasing the business and developing the European team and gaining the respect of Ralph himself.
You are an accomplished musician and a big music fan – who are your favourites? Outwith the ‘Polo’ band – I love blues music, especially the greats, Robert Johnson, Muddy Waters, BB & Freddie King as well as Eric Clapton. Today I enjoy John Mayer and Elbow. As a well-travelled man where in the world would you choose to work? I love being in Scotland so it would have to be number one – the people and the humour are hard to beat. Geneva comes a close second. What image would you choose to represent the most beautiful and best of Scotland? Has to be Wester Ross. The view as you reach the Applecross Peninsula towards Skye – it is breath-taking. Brian will step down as Group President of Ralph Lauren Europe and the Middle East at the end of March 2012 to run his own company ‘Duffy Management and Investment Ltd’ which will focus on private equity backed investments in fashion and luxury brands with global potential.
wish you were here!
14 | SPLENDID PRINTS
Our passion for mesmerising print runs through many collections of fabrics and clothing this season. From animal-inspired pieces, to rejuvenated Paisley prints to painterly effects – there is a host of quality patterns from across the industry.
splendid The print rules have been relaxed this season, which bodes well for Scotland as an industry acclaimed with creating some of the most iconic patterns in the world. So it was time for that famous innovative design and the historical techniques in manipulating fabrics and print to deliver cutting-edge but spirited pieces. And we haven’t disappointed. Digital printing – which offers a brilliant new medium on luxurious quality fabrics – is a growing trend among Scottish designers and mills. Taking inspired thought from the designer’s mind directly to a fabric delivers some highly creative offerings and adds a new dimension to high-end fashion. A number of leading designers and brands have embraced the digital technology which allows a whole image to be laid down on fabric as on paper. And now, with the quality of this technique at a premium it can be seen in a number of printed collections from Scottish companies on some top quality base fabrics. What is exciting about this is the ‘newness’ and ‘uniqueness’ of each design and collection – repetitive patterns get a fresh contemporary shake up.
Silk Patchwork Kimono by Morag Macpherson Textiles.
SPLENDID PRINTS | 15
Totty Rocks 'Forces' Dress (detail) in Printed Cotton.
Paisley, the fabric which takes its name from the industrial town in central Scotland ďŹ nds a rebirth for S/S 12
16 | SPLENDID PRINTS
The Scottish industry is bangon-trend with full on big cat-printed pieces
As the prints become more abstract, you glance and then glance again. So look out for some prints a little out of the ordinary from our elite this season. One to not go unnoticed is the world’s excitement for Paisley pattern. The fabric which takes its name from the industrial town in central Scotland ďŹ nds a rebirth for S/S 12. The heritage design is of Persian and Indian origin and consists of intricate swirls and curls based on stylised pine cones and cypress trees. It was historically manufactured in the Scottish town as shawls during the 19th century before being distributed across the globe. Desire for the sophisticated print on fabric, its inuence on couture, and its use in contemporary design remains strong today (check out the printed cotton day dress from Totty Rocks pictured on page 15). While the design style has had its critics in the past, this resurgence with a cool modern day twist has resulted in some stunning pieces using this timeless classic.
Glitter Beach Sandy Lane Diva Catsuit & Cross Over Swimsuit in Silver Foiled Black & White Cheetah Print and glasses by Niche Optical Tailor.
SPLENDID PRINTS | 17
Raja Scarves in Grey, Blue & Natural and Reptilia Scarves in Natural & Grey by Begg.
Art and fashion have historically enjoyed a fruitful and loving relationship. This season the usual subtle tribute was surpassed by an all-out celebration with leading designers declaring their love for the art world in their collections. While many on the catwalks chose to channel the great and the good famous artistes in their designs like Jil Sander and Rodarte, Scotland boasts a growing trend of designer-own-art inspired pieces. Iona Crawford (featured in our Ones to Watch) has historically used her own paintings in her couture collections and Ken Shapley (pictured on page 19 ) is bringing scenes from nature in to the wardrobe with his unique artistic scarf collection. From dresses to accessories to fabrics themselves there is a plethora of unique prints worthy of a viewing gallery.
Fuschia with Lemon and Neon Lime with Turquoise Aran Print Fluorescent T-shirts by EribĂŠ.
18 | SPLENDID PRINTS
The perennial spirit of Africa-inspired animal prints is always welcomed. The Scottish industry is bang-on-trend with full on big cat-printed pieces such as the catsuit and swimwear from Glitter Beach (pictured on page 16) as well as the more subtle jungle-inspired accessories such as scarves from Begg, which also infuse colour to the print (pictured on page 17). So whether by the pool, or in a bid to keep cool, Scotland can satisfy the animal needs of all its customers. And Scotland’s ability to work well with vibrant textiles has led to the nation’s young designers like Catherine Aitken keen to work with other contemporary printed fabrics to create more soughtafter lines (pictured). From clashing ethnic tribal graphics, to abstract colour-washed and complex geometric muses and intricate digital printing, not to mention innovative techniques, the Scottish industry has it all even for the most print-shy.
Catherine Aitken Bow Clutch Bags in Missoni Fabric.
SPLENDID PRINTS | 19
A selection of Bespoke Digitally Blended Designs from the Natural World Printed on Silk Scarves by Ken Shapely, Photographic Artist and Designer.
20 | BAGS OF TALENT
From the French sac-à-main and valise petite to complement any outfit, the more masculine offering both practical and stylish, or something unique for the weekend away – Scotland has the bag that’s right for you.
bags of The humble ‘handbag’ has been around for a while with references in literature dating back to the 14th century. Styles, ranges and materials have all changed over time but our love for the perfect outfit companion remains as strong as ever. The ‘bag’ is now big business in fashion with exclusive lines from well-known design houses attracting four figure prices. The Scottish textiles industry is not one to be left behind – from classy clutches to weekend holdalls and of course the now must-have ‘manbag’ – there is a wealth of choice on offer for all occasions. Using the finest fabrics including, tweed, tartans, and even a patented range for the discerning traveller – complete with a Torso Protection System™ designed to keep suits in shape and crease free – our designers and mills have created some unique offerings that make the Scottish bag a real must-have item. Just take a look at some of the key pieces we have found this season and we think you’ll agree Scotland has bags of talent.
tal
The Scottish textiles industry is not one to be left behind – from classy clutches to weekend holdalls and of course the now must-have ‘manbag’
ent
BAGS OF TALENT | 21
From top to bottom left to right: Laura Spring Windy Weather Suitcase & Warm Weather Overnight Bag; Catherine Aitken Renaissance Munro Manbag (created from recycled vintage Harris Tweed jackets incorporating working pockets and trims and leather patches), Fraser Balgowan Sporting Tweed & Leather Messenger Bag, Lat56째 BackPack (complete with bombproof NASAspec memory foam laptop compartment), Harris Tweed Weekend Bag by Tweeds with Style, Sporran Bag by Impractical Clothes, Julia Cunningham Wee Fantoosh Green Bag and Muckle Fantoosh Floral Bag.
22 | PHOTOSHOOT
Louis wears: Men's Lambswool Blue & White V-neck Stripe Sweater by Hawick Knitwear; Yellow Cashmere Slipover by Caerlee Mills; Shorts by Walker Slater and Harris Tweed Sunburst Hi-Tops by Jaggy Nettle.
PHOTOSHOOT | 23
Tara wears: 2 ply Cashmere Lightweight Waterfall Cardigan with Hood in Pink by Johnstons of Elgin; Black Silk Swing Dress with Cut-Out Back, Power Mesh Side Panels, Yellow Binding Detail on Front, Black Fringed Trim and Concealed Zip by Claire McInally and Edda Shoes by Emily Lamb.
24 | PHOTOSHOOT
Louis wears: Neon Houndstooth Wool Tweed Flat Cap by Fabhatrix; Hawick Cashmere Teague Cashmere Cardigan in a 7 Colour Multi Stripe and Green & Gold Vintage Sunglasses from Niche Optical Tailor.
PHOTOSHOOT | 25
26 | PHOTOSHOOT
Tara wears: Printed Scarf by Helen Ruth; Belinda Robertson Black Label Infra Pink Sleeveless V-neck Jumper; Mini Dress by Obscure Couture; Zhora Tight by Bebaroque; Daisy Pattern Ankle Boot with Pink Lining by Mandarina Shoes; Niche Optical Tailor Glasses with Pink Eyelash Lenses; Rox Disco Bracelets (in various colours) and Catherine Aitken Bow Clutch Bag in Missoni Fabric.
PHOTOSHOOT | 27
Louis wears: Landsman Tweed Waistcoat & Trousers (part of a threepiece suit) with a Blue & Pink Silk Polka Dot Tie Scarf by Walker Slater and Harris Tweed Herringbone Hi-Tops by Jaggy Nettle.
28 | PHOTOSHOOT
Tara wears: Jaggy Nettle Tiger Print Cashmere Sweater (blue print on ivory); Orange Maryburgh Mini Skirt with Architectural Waist (Scottish linen lined in silk) by Henrietta Ludgate; Patricio British Jersey leggings in Hot Pink & White by Henrietta Ludgate; Emily Lamb Egidia Shoes; Brazen Square Block Necklace and Green Vintage Sunglasses from Niche Optical Tailor.
PHOTOSHOOT | 29
Tara wears: Marc Ross Yellow Shirt Sundress & Black Mesh Bodysuit; Petronilla Shoes by Emily Lamb; Rox Gold-plated Twist Circle Earrings and Necklace with Circle Pendant.
30 | FLORAL FUN
Chiffon Posy Scarf Black/Multi by Begg.
FLORAL FUN | 31
floral
fun ‘Flower Power’ is definitely one of the phrases of the season with feminine floral prints and blossoming appliqués from the industry making an appearance across fashion and accessories.
Scotland’s own Christopher Kane led the way at his S/S 12 collection with an explosion of flowers blossoming through sheer organza covers – a trend that many other leading Scots designers have followed. While head-to-toe in a posy print (like some of the more daring catwalk favourites this season) may not please everyone’s taste buds, there are many other ways to incorporate a key piece of this trend in an outfit. You could try a cute dress like that from Edinburgh’s Eleanor’s Riot (pictured); a luxurious printed scarf from world-famous Begg (pictured); a floral handbag from Julia Cunningham; or perhaps even a floral-inspired hat like those available from our milliners. There is a mixed bunch available from Scotland this season with one thing in common…they are all definitely ‘forget-me-nots’.
With the fashion catwalks bursting with colour this season, the passion for florals is blooming marvellous and our designers and mills are producing some wonderful pieces which are bang on this season’s budding trend.
Matchbox Dress in Liberty Print by Eleanor’s Riot.
32 | CLASSICALLY RETRO
classically
retro Scotland is responsible for many ‘legends’ of the fashion world
Callum wears: Three-piece Patrick Suit in Moss; Yellow Silk Polka Dot Scarf and Giles Lace Boots by Walker Slater. Steph wears: Waistcoat, Skirt, and Hat by Joyce Paton using Harris Tweed Hebrides Fabric; Emily Lamb Camelia Shoes and Glasses by Niche Optical Tailor.
CLASSICALLY RETRO | 33
Where would we be without the wardrobe staples? Those classic patterns, styles and pieces we are drawn to time and time again. And with retro glamour making a welcome return to the catwalk as well as the movie screens, we take a look at how Scotland can get you ready for any red carpet event… Nearly 50 years ago ads for a famous brand asked the question “What becomes a legend most?” Naturally Blackglama’s answer was its core product – mink – but a lot has changed since Bette Davis and Marlene Dietrich posed for those glamorous shots.
What Scotland is very good at is creating pieces which either stand on their own merit season after season, trend after trend, or ones that merely mould and manifest themselves in to whatever style is required at the time.
Scotland is responsible for many ‘legends’ of the fashion world. The tweeds, the plaids, the cashmere, the knits and of course the kilt – all of which have never compromised on quality and remained stylish for centuries. Now that’s true legend!
Let’s take the season’s influence of affluence – the Gatsby inspired 1920s glamour and prosperous 1950s chic.
This is a country which boasts a plethora of luxury fabrics, continually used in traditional and contemporary fashion. The timeless style associated with a classic tweed suit, the plaid skirt which enjoys constant reinvention, the softness and undisputable quality of the cashmere scarf and of course the familiar comfort of the quality knitwear – none of which will ever lose its style.
Limited Edition Bella Organza, Two in One Scarves in Eau-de-nil & Copper with Pink Nude Tulle, Denim Blue & Silver with Pewter Grey Tulle, Purple & Lime Changeant with Taupe Tulle, Handfinished with Swarovski Crystals by Sandra Murray.
Spurred on by Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s unforgettable classic ‘The Great Gatsby’ released later this year, the twenties retro feel has been evident on catwalks across the world. Although not to be credited with the iconic ‘Flapper Dress’, Scotland does have to take kudos for its ability to take classic pieces and add the necessary embroidery, trims, sparkles and of course a host of accessories to create that elegant Daisy Buchanan look.
Kinloch Anderson Tweed and Dupion Silk Stoles.
34 | CLASSICALLY RETRO
Moonlight Glen Tartan Kilt by Kiltpin.
As for the 1950s inspiration with prim plaids with pastel checks – these have been staples from Scotland retuned for this season’s needs. Channelling the essence of the decade’s stylish heroines like Marylin Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, pieces play homage to the feminine form with tailoring of each garment of upmost importance. And we take our tailoring seriously in Scotland. Why wouldn’t we? Our manufacturers have been supplying some of the leading names on Savile Row and big named brands, with the finest quality fabrics to make the best, most coveted pieces of fashion. From undisputable sartorial elegance from the likes of Holland & Sherry to the exquisite wovens from the likes of Robert Noble (pictured), Reid & Taylor and Macnaughtons – to name but a few – brands know where to come for archetypical, reliable materials that are also contemporary and continually developed.
Selection of Robert Noble S/S Fabrics.
CLASSICALLY RETRO | 35
Some of our country’s newest designers have also worked with the classics theme to develop core ranges to underpin collections like that of ten30 and its collection of tailored blouses and suits. The ‘scarf’ is also now a recognised classic accessory from Scotland. Our mills have led the way in producing the luxurious length which can be worn in many ways to set off an outfit. And these classics continually enjoy a rebirth season after season with the use of different fabrics (such as Kinloch Anderson pictured on page 33) and intricate details added to enhance the piece (such as the new accessories range from Sandra Murray which includes embroidery featuring Swarovski crystals). Then of course there is our ‘kilt’ – one of the best loved classics the world over which we continue to see manifested in traditional as well as contemporary wear. Dating back to the 16th century this symbol of Scotland is made with skills that have been passed down through generations for centuries. However the craft in making the traditional Scottish Highland Dress is often underestimated. The host of kilt artisans in Scotland are experts in continually reinventing this classic piece making it work for whatever occasion. A well-made kilt is both fashionable and desirable with the boundaries often pushed to create stunning ensembles that celebrate the personality. With our industry remaining the crux of many of Britain’s (and indeed the world’s) iconic and time-honoured designs, the legend of the classic fabric and retro couture almost certainly remains rooted in Scotland.
Glenisla Retro Look Glam Silk & Velvet Kilt Dress.
36 | HOLLY FULTON
Three years on from launching as part of the A/W 09 Fashion East Show the young award-winning designer from Edinburgh is now a firm catwalk favourite. We caught up with Holly, one of Scotland’s shining fashion stars to find out a little more… When did you first realise that you wanted to make fashion your career and what inspired you? I knew after my foundation course that I wanted to move into fashion and textiles. It took a visit to Australia to make me decide that I was going to do an MA and I would say Lulu Kennedy and Fashion East made me decide to pursue my own label. When others believe in you it encourages you to do things you might not otherwise. Who do you think have been the biggest influences on your career? My parents for the continual support and encouragement; Lulu Kennedy for giving me a break via Fashion East; Sarah Mower for her advice and encouragement; NEWGEN for sponsoring me and backing my label. How would you describe the look and feel of your brand? I am trying to create high end ready-to-wear and accessories which encapsulate a feeling of modern luxury and represent a strong wardrobe choice for a broad cross section of ladies. I hope the label feels graphic, fun, luxurious and a little bit tongue in cheek. You launched your first collection in 2009 and since then you’ve gone on to do some impressive projects with a number of highprofile figures. What do you feel is your greatest achievement to date? I would say winning a British fashion award would be my biggest and strangest highlight. It was very unexpected, and to get such an award at such an early stage in my career was incredible.
HOLLY FULTON | 37
a shining
star I remember being in front of all these amazing figures from the industry and thinking this is a crazy moment! You collaborated with Quentin Jones for a fashion film a couple of years ago which helped to establish you as one of Britain's rising design talents. How was it working with her and do you think there is a growing link between fashion and visual art? Quentin is brilliant, she is just a great person and very open and receptive to new ideas above all else. I loved the short film we did together. Her interpretation of my design was the perfect foil for S/S 11. There has always been a huge link between fashion and visual art, it’s inevitable that two areas based so strongly on the use of the graphic and visual will be strongly connected. As new forms of media develop and expand this can only grow. Your designs have been worn by a number of celebrities; can you tell us who has been your favourite client to work with and why? I don't have a favourite! Every time I see anyone wearing my designs it’s an honour to know they selected that piece themselves. I love seeing how people interpret my work into their own wardrobes. What do you think is your biggest challenge over the next few years? How to grow and stay afloat financially. Unfortunately this is the main problem new designers face but it’s also a problem I'm determined to tackle head-on and overcome!
You’ve been a fantastic supporter of Scottish fabrics and knitwear. What do you think the industry does so well to attract so many designers/brands to work with us? I think there is an incredible heritage of industry and craft in Scotland that is vastly underused. The wealth of talent and skill deserves exposure on an international scale and I think this is something that designers and Scottish industry need to resolve. I would love to see colleges and new designers in Scotland working together more with industry and developing the techniques and processes together. What piece of advice would you give to a young aspiring designer starting out? Stick with it. It takes a long time to develop and evolve a style that is ready to turn in to a business. Be open to advice and take criticism, you have to be 100% sure in what you are doing and believe in it to work as hard as you will need to in order to keep it going. It’s that Desert Island Discs moment now. What are the three favourite things you couldn’t live without? My team (including my parents and boyfriend), red lipstick and music. And finally… can you tell our readers something about Holly Fulton that isn’t in your bio? I can play the saxophone!
I think there is an incredible heritage of industry and craft in Scotland that is vastly underused
38 | ONES TO WATCH
ones to watch International acclaim, celebrity fans, red carpet outings and drop-dead-gorgeous pieces – all in a day’s work for our ten ‘ones to watch’.
And the future looks equally set to be filled with Scots at the forefront of couture design
It is no secret that Scotland has produced some of the best talent and leading lights of the fashion industry – past and present. And the future looks equally set to be filled with Scots at the forefront of couture design. Of course with so many bright sparks and cutting-edge new kids on the block choosing ten was no easy task. So this is our ‘starter for ten’ of designers recently hitting the headlines for all the right reasons.
ONES TO WATCH | 39
iona crawford Lauded by Vogue as ‘One to Watch’, Iona is renowned for her innovative and intricate garment structure. Her original paintings, inspired by her native Scotland, form the basis of an avantgarde, yet wearable look epitomised by earthy and tonal fabrics including cashmere, wool, tweed and leather as well as hand-knitted pieces and most recently tartan. As an accomplished artist in her own right, Iona fuses her love of the outdoors with refined silhouette, bespoke self-designed prints, meticulous cloth selection and masculine tailoring influences to create an inimitable collection of ‘Timeless Elegance’.
judy r
clark
This award-winning designer is famed for her exquisite pieces which comprise Harris Tweed, vintage lace and sumptuous silks. Judy, who interned with Alexander McQueen was recently commissioned to design a dress out of car parts to celebrate automotive giant Ford’s centennial year. A woman in high demand across the globe, her unique skill creates an unquestionable style which has an instantly recognisable panache. Every wardrobe deserves at least one Judy R Clark piece. Whether it is a Harris Tweed Frock Coat, a delectable couture gown or something from her new slick commercial line of womenswear you can feel the difference in every piece.
This dress has its own engine, petrol flow and speedometer! The commission was a creative challenge but I loved every minute of it – it has certainly turned a few heads
Cut in feather light wool voile it features one of my bespoke painterly prints. The elegant silhouette gently skims feminine curves while the intriguing kaleidoscopic print encourages the eye to wander the body Airone Blu Dress.
Ford B-Max Dress.
40 | ONES TO WATCH
joyce
paton
Over the past seven years Joyce has steadily built up a business – from selling to high end boutiques before opening her own to stock her fashion label. Joyce’s talent has been nurtured by the ‘university of life’ rather than through any formal training. Always a fan of traditional methods of creating statement garments she has now blossomed not only into an inspired milliner but also a creative couturier. Her headpieces are works of art and showstopping when worn and her creative use of Harris Tweed – from top to toe – earned her the accolade of creating the Harris Tweed Hebrides’ Centenary gown and headpiece.
Allure.
william chambers This man knows how to get a career off to a chart-topping start. After setting up on his own in 2007 his talent was catapulted in to the limelight when pop star and fashion icon Roisin Murphy wore one of his hats on her European tour. Now working with a number of high-profile established brands, as well as designing bespoke pieces for his growing customer-base William has his own studio, showroom and online hat shop. With his dedicated following stretching from the UK to the USA to Japan, including celebs such as Ana Matronic, Suzi Perry and Kelis, he is now firmly established as a gifted milliner.
Rose Bouquet Headpiece.
This piece is part of my new collection which was inspired by the drama of the Venetian Carnival using vintage lace
The inspiration for this piece came from floristry. I love the hard edge leather roses that contrast with the lightness of the crin that has been used to tie the bouquet
ONES TO WATCH | 41
jaggy
nettle
This leftfield duo – Jason Lee and Emily Quinn – continue to push the boundaries of fashion. Producing collections for men and women, as well as a range of accessories, Jaggy Nettle has established a distinctive style which is receiving worldwide acclaim. Underpinning their distinguished lines is a love for traditional Scottish textiles. Using classic, luxurious fabrics made in Scotland such as Harris Tweed, waxed linen and the finest cashmere they create contemporary aesthetic pieces using distinctive hand screen printing patterns and motifs. Their most recent endeavour has led to the opening of a new production facility resurrecting hand-made textiles skills in Fife, and marking a new era in Scottish textiles manufacturing.
Hand-printed Harris Tweed Skirt.
The inspiration for this piece comes from our interest in distorted geometry and our proclivity for things a little warped. This is the first time we have used our print process on Harris Tweed garments and we are delighted with the results
obscure
couture This exciting label was born from an inseparable friendship. Jenn and Lyndsay, the creative geniuses behind this boundary-less label met at University and the rest as they say is history (and what a collectively impressive one they have). In two years the pair have built up a brand which breaks moulds and pieces them together again into something no-one could ever expect. With two seasons at London Fashion Week under their belt, and of course an X Factor debut, we are very, very excited about what will come next from this Scottish fashion force.
This outfit was designed to represent our muse as she begins to lose her inhibitions with a daring choice of semi-transparent fabrics, clashing colours, raw edges and entwined fabrics – signifying her chaotic mindset Gold Metallic Playsuit with Handmade Large Fabric Rose & a Striped SemiTransparent Lurex Skirt; Kobe Leather Waistband; and a Heart-Shaped Blue Faux Fur Muff with Studs & Chain.
42 | ONES TO WATCH
claire Inspired by geometry, sculpture and texture this 26 year-old Glasgow-based designer has captured the eye of many in the industry since UK store Oasis snapped up her graduate collection three years ago. Using innovative techniques to create unique textile embellishments, fused with a fascination with the female form, has resulted in a signature style of creating strong, architectural shapes evoking empowerment to the wearer. Claire recently joined forces with two other like-minded fashionistas to create new brand ‘Wink, Peace & Pout’. Inspired by friendship, fun and positive thinking, the brand aims to inspire people to believe in themselves and fully embrace their individuality. This brand is not just a label – it is a way of life – with a growing dedicated following of wink, peace & pouters worldwide! Amanda Hendrick in a Wink, Peace & Pout T-shirt.
The look for our first collection was ‘hippy rock chic’ with a range of versatile t-shirts which can be dressed up or down to suit any individual look
marc
ross
Marc began his career in fashion at an early age working as an embroidery and screen printing assistant in summer holidays before moving on to work with fashion icon Vivienne Westwood and brands such as Jaeger, Burberry, Anya Hindmarsh and Barbour. He took the brave step to go it alone in 2010 by starting up his own business. His now popular eponymous label is fuelled by his edgy, underground vision to create wonderfully structured but dramatic, gorgeously constructed pieces. With Cheryl Cole as a fan we think we will be seeing a lot more of Mr Ross in the future.
Marc is a member of the Design Collective Scotland. Arcadian Dress.
Deviating from the usual dark, gothic, edgy pieces using leather, this dress is more commercial, keeping my signature style with laser cut leather but softening the piece with floaty burnt orange chiffon
ONES TO WATCH | 43
di
emily
gilpin lamb With 30 years’ experience in the design and knitting business you may be forgiven for wondering why Di is one of our ‘ones to watch’. Well, there is a very good reason – she is, quite simply, one of fashion’s hottest properties. From working with Meadham Kirchoff for their AW11/12 show which featured 40 pieces of hand-knit – which Di patterned, sourced and knitted with her team – to her current topsecret work on a hand-knit line for a well-known sportswear company in conjunction with the 2012 London Olympics, Di has now firmly established herself as a leading expert in couture knitwear. She is a woman rightly in demand.
Since setting up her own label in 2010, Emily Lamb has always been a step ahead of the rest. A determined and passionate designer, she already has an envious celebrity following having designed for such A-listers as Claire Danes, Shirley Bassey and Kelly MacDonald. The 25 year-old’s ability to combine sheer luxury with timeless modern design has led to the creation of what can only be described as utterly beautiful collections, season after season. Every shoe is hand-made no matter if they are ready-towear or made-to-order. Not just an accessory, these are shoes you build an outfit around!
Di is a member of the Design Collective Scotland.
Emily is a member of the Design Collective Scotland.
Blue Kid Mohair Shrug.
My inspiration for this piece came from an ‘ice princess’ excavated in the Mongolian steppe lands. The garment is knitted seamlessly and the pattern reflects her body painting
My timeless 'Barbera' shoes are my current favourites. Tan suede, peep toes with navy nappa petal detail cupping the heel, they can be worn for every occasion
Barbera shoes.
44 | WHY SAKS SEEK THE SCOTS
why saks seek the scots
With its flagship store at 50th on the famous shopping haven Fifth Avenue in New York, as well as 44 other stores, Saks is a leader of fashion in the US retailing market. For nearly 90 years the retailer has brought the best in couture to dedicated followers of fashion in the USA and beyond. Its love affair with Scotland has grown over the years, which it formally marked last November with a ‘Best of Scotland’ celebration. Now, complete with its very own registered tartan, Saks’ relationship with Scotland has never been stronger.
high-end goods and that's why ‘Made in Scotland’ should speak volumes to every consumer.” Saks travels the world looking for the finest partners.
Tom Ott, senior vice president and GMM Menswear of the world-renowned retailer, has travelled to Scotland with his team a number of times in the past year to visit mills and hand pick the finest cashmere, merino and tweeds for the retailer’s own Saks Fifth Avenue men’s collection. He also addressed the Scottish Textile Industry Association’s annual conference sharing why the global retailer has a newly revived love for Scottish textiles.
Reflecting on industries across the world Ott highlighted how lessons could be learned from others who continue to use their historical expertise to strengthen their worldwide appeal. He stressed: “It is important to use the products’ origin to firmly stamp the recognition of quality. We look for fabrics which we can ‘edit’ for the marketplace and use these to create that differentiated product we are famous for. We stand by our tagline ‘know what you’re wearing’. Textiles from Scotland fit our needs, satisfy our wants and deliver.”
“Scottish products are the great secret of the textiles industry but deliver exactly what our customers want – authenticity – providing that legitimate piece of clothing with a story behind it. This heritage remains an important part of the purchase cycle of
As one of many leading retailers and fashion labels that come to Scotland season after season to work closely with the industry, we are sure that the relationship with Saks Fifth Avenue will continue to blossom and encourage more to follow suit.
WHY SAKS SEEK THE SCOTS | 45
46 | STOCKISTS
I
bebaroque
Impractical Clothes
+44 (0)131 661 2332, www.bebaroque.co.uk
+44 (0)131 228 8947, www.impracticalclothes.com
Begg Scotland
Iona Crawford
+44 (0)1292 267615, www.beggscotland.com
+44 (0)7816 504926, www.ionacrawford.com
Belinda Robertson
J
find us
B
+44 (0)131 557 8118, www.belindarobertson.com
Brazen
Jaggy Nettle +44 (0)7850 342892, www.jaggynettle.com
+44 (0)141 552 4551, www.brazenstudios.co.uk
Jo Storie
C
+44 (0)1289 309500, www.jostorie.com
Caerlee Mills
+44 (0)1343 554099, www.johnstonscashmere.com
+44 (0)1896 830222, www.caerleemills.com
Cari & Co
Johnstons of Elgin Joyce Paton +44 (0)7879 407336, www.joycepaton.com
+44 (0)1224 862806, www.cariandco.com
Judy R. Clark
Catherine Aitken
+44 (0)7933 658642, www.judyrclark.com
+44 (0)7799 885417, www.catherineaitken.com
Julia Cunningham
Claire McInally
+44 (0)1835 824958, juliacunningham.wordpress.com
+44 (0)7794 992519, www.clairemcinally.com
K
D
Ken Shapley
Di Gilpin
+44 (0)7825 586012, www.kennethshapley.com
+44 (0)1334 840431, digilpincollection.weebly.com
Kiltpin
E
+44 (0)1324 624588, www.kiltpin.co.uk
Edinburgh Woollen Mill
+44 (0)131 555 1355, www.kinlochanderson.com
+44 (0)1387 380611, www.ewm.co.uk
Kinloch Anderson
Eleanor's Riot
L
+44 (0)7966 231664, www.eleanorsriot.co.uk
LAT56°
Emily Lamb
+44 (0)141 248 9005, www.lat56.com
+44 (0)141 644 2556, www.emilylambshoes.com
Laura Spring
Eribé
+44 (0)7855 056851, www.lauraspring.co.uk
+44 (0)1896 755540, www.eribe.co.uk
Lauren Crawford
F
+44 (0)7783 596216, www.laurencrawford.co.uk
Fabhatrix
M
+44 (0)131 225 9222, www.fabhatrix.com
Macnaughton
Fraser Balgowan
+44 (0)1738 609000, www.macnaughton-group.com
+44 (0)1540 670079, www.fraserbalgowan.com
Mandarina Shoes Ltd
G
+44 (0)1307 819488, www.mandarainshoes.com
Glitter Beach +44 (0)1505 843306, www.glitterbeach.co.uk
Glenisla Kilts Ltd +44 (0)1698 254579, www.glenislakilts.co.uk
Marc Ross +44 (0)7525 785265, www.marc-ross.co.uk
Morag MacPherson +44 (0)7734 421029, www.moragmacpherson.com
Godiva Boutique
N
+44 (0)131 221 9212, www.godivaboutique.co.uk
NIche Optical Tailor
H
+44 (0)141 553 2077, www.nicheopticaltailor.co.uk
Harris Tweed Hebrides +44 (0)1851 702862, www.harristweedhebrides.com
O Obscure Couture
Hawick Cashmere
+44 (0)141 237 2267, www.obscure-couture.com
+44 (0)1450 372510, www.hawickcashmere.com
P
Hawick Knitwear +44 (0)1450 363100, www.hawickknitwear.com
Pea Cooper Millinery
Helen Ruth
+44 (0)7845 755637, www.peacoopermillinery.com
+44 (0)7816 770246, www.helenruth.co.uk
R
Henrietta Ludgate +44 (0)141 416 4666, www.henriettaludgate.com
Holland and Sherry +44 (0)1721 720101, www.hollandandsherry.com
Holly Fulton +44 (0)20 7268 6122, www.hollyfulton.com
House of Cheviot +44 (0)1450 378670, www.houseofcheviot.com
Reid & Taylor +44 (0)1387 380311, www.reidandtaylor.co.uk
Roam +44 (0)1896 758 604, www.studioroam.com
Robert Noble +44 (0)1721 720146, www.robert-noble.co.uk
Rox + 44 (0)800 012 4363, www.rox.co.uk
Design and editorial by Glasgow www.webershandwick.co.uk +44 (0)141 333 0557 www.webershandwickdesign.com +44 (0)141 333 0445 (m ud) n. 1. mode, fashion, style 2. manners, good breeding 3. respect, honour 4. good morals
STOCKISTS | 47
S Sandra Murray +44 (0)1463 220091, www.sandramurray.co.uk
Scalpay Linen +44 (0)1859 540298, www.scalpaylinen.com
Scottish Leather Group +44 (0)141 847 4520, www.scottishleathergroup.com
T ten30 +44 (0)7920 096553, www.ten30.co.uk
Totty Rocks +44 (0)131 226 3232, www.tottyrocks.com
Tweeds with Style +44 (0)1859 511275, clothbagco@gmail.com
W Walker Slater +44 (0)131 220 2636, www.walkerslater.co.uk
William Chambers +44 (0)7815 096367, www.williamchambers.co.uk This page: Tara wears Holly Fulton Cashmere Sunnyside Up Cardigan; Bebaroque Cream Encrusted Body Suit & Black and Gold Tights; Black Organza Pencil Skirt with Leather Side Panels & Waistband and Concealed Zip by Claire McInally; Retro black and gold glasses by Niche Optical Tailor; Rox Disco Champagne Earrings and Bracelet. Back page: Callum wears Men's Leather Jacket with Shearling Collar by Jaggy Nettle (made to order); Gents ‘Fly the Flag’ Kilt (plain front with detailed back) by kiltcentre.com in collaboration with Glenilsa Kilts; Socks by House of Cheviot and trainers models own.
Thanks to SWG3, the multi-discipline arts facility we used for our photoshoot. An excellent location which provides studio space to a community of over 120 creative practitioners including visual artists, curators, photographers, performance artists, musicians & dancers. The building also houses exhibitions, live music, has a natural light photography studio and much more. It was a great inspirational venue for our shoot! An extra special thanks to Mutley, Gazmac and graffiti artist Power who created the artwork in our shot on page 23. SWG3, Tel: +44 (0)141 357 7246, www.swg3.tv If you have any queries/questions or just want to say hi please contact us at modh@webershandwick.com or call Paula McNulty on +44 (0)141 333 0557 +44 (0)7770 886924.
www.facebook.com/textilesscotland www.twitter.com/TextilesScot#modhmagazine www.linkedin.com/in/textilesscotland www.youtube.com/TextilesScotland www.issuu.com/textilesscotland www.textilescotland.com