e-journal - May-Jun '18

SPINNING

PEER REVIEWED

Effect of Loom Speed and GSM on Needle Punched Nonwoven Fabric by Factorial Design Technique Chetan Mahajan, Mohit Joshi, Sujit Gulhane* & Ranjit Turukmane Center for Textile Functions, MPSTME Abstract The present paper deals with the assessment of the influence of loom speed and GSM on needle punched non-woven filter fabric used for smoke and cement dust control using 2 factor 5 level factorial design. Total 25 needle punched non-woven fabric samples were produced with 5 level of GSM and 5 levels of loom speed. The fabric samples were tested for its physical and mechanical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, bursting strength and air permeability. The relationship between fabric properties with selected process and fabric parameter were given with regression analysis.

Keywords Needle Punching, Nonwoven GSM, Air Permeability, Tensile and Bursting Strength.

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, Sujit Gulhane, Center for Textile Functions, MPSTME, NMIMS Shirpur Campus, Email : sujitgulhane.iitd@gmail.com May - June 2018

the boards) with the number of strokes (SPM) of the loom, and then the product is divided by the output speed (distance traveled by the fabric) per min [6]. A modern needle punching looms have automated data pertaining to stitch density on the screen of control panel [7]. Most of the Nonwoven fabric properties such as thickness, strength air permeability are highly depend on the weight per unit area of the fabric i.e.

GSM [8]. The increase in web GSM shows higher thickness and alsogreater fibre entanglement in the web results into higher strengths. The higher GSM nonwoven exhibits more number of fibres and more frictional resistance to restrict the passage of air thus air permeability reduces with rise in GSM [9, 10].

1.1 Needle Punched Nonwoven Fabric Manufacturing The manufacturing process of needle punched nonwoven starts with the opening and mixing of staple fibers, different type of fibers from bale stage, blended in the correct proportions by means of openers. The fibers are opened and dispersed for the preparation of carding process.The opened and cleaned fibers are blown from the opening machine which supply a predetermined Quantity to Cards by electric auto scale controlled system.The fibers faded into the carding machine are snared by the wire of rotating cylinder and fibers are aligned in an essential parallel direction.

A web or net is formed on card and removed from the card by doffer to the cross lapper. Fiber webs layered by unidirectional or cross directional layering to increase the fabrics cross directional strength, thickness, weight, width and improve uniformity. Layered web 5

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction The nonwovens are unique engineered fabrics which offer cost effective solutions for various application areas such as hygiene convenience items, battery separation, filtration, geotextile, packaging [1]. Nonwoven fabrics can be produced with similar texture and strength of conventional woven and textile fabrics in addition to that flat monolithic fabrics, multi-layer nonwoven composites, laminates and three dimensional nonwoven fabrics are also commercially produced [2]. Nonwoven fabrics are classified depending up on the type of web manufacturing, web bounding, finishing. Needle punched nonwovens are the most popular type of among all types of nonwovens [3]. Needle punch non-woven fabric manufacturing, only staple fibre is used to make a sheet of fibres termed as 'Batt'. The staple fibre web is produced by carding or air laying method, this web is then layered one above the other by parallel or cross laying method to produce a batt [4]. The needle punching method uses specially designed needles for punching the fibre batt (web).During the course of punching process, the needles move in and out of the fibre batt at a high frequency, as a result of which the interlocking of fibres takes place within the fabric [5].Stitch density is a measure of the number of stitches in square centimeter (in the metric system) or a square inch (in the imperial system) of fabric. It is determined by multiplying the needle density (number of needles in

SPINNING can be adjusted to meet the standards of any specifications and delivered to needle punching by means of web feeder .The layered web called as batt is delivered by means of conveyor and rollers to needle punching loom. The operation will make the web becomes the middle high density nonwoven fabric.After needle punching the fibres in the batt has been appropriately interlaced and give required strength to form nonwoven fabric. The top and bottom side of the fabric can be fed through calendars to further compression if required [11, 12].

1.2 Needle Punching Process

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Figure 1.1 : Needle Punching of Nonwovens

The layered fibrous web is passed over a feed table, throw the need of drawing rollers and fed to needling area via feed rollers. In needling area, the web is repeatedly subjected to array of needles moving up and down. The three sided shanks of the needles have barbs which grip the fibers as the web is perforated, and pull them through the web. As the needle return, the fibers remain in their new position virtually unchanged since the barbs only face in one direction.

The needle punch loom supporting the needle board is situated above the needle plate and is powered by a main drive over a shaft. Holes are bored into the needle board to take the needles. To achieve the desired compression and bonding, it is common practice to have several needling zones in a row, with different needle settings and direction of stitching [12].

2. Materials and Methods The needle punching method uses specially designed needles for punching the fibre batt (web). During the course of punching process, the needles move in and out of the fibre batt at a high frequency, as a result of 6

which the interlocking of fibres takes place within the fabric. The needle punching density and penetration depth are important variables decides properties of needle punched nonwoven fabric. The punching density or stitch density in needle punched nonwoven means the numbers of needle penetration in unit area of the fibrous web for eg. 30 punches per square inch.

The stitch density is directly proportional to the frequency of the strokes of the needle board, the number of needles per unit area of needle board, length and width of the needle board and inversely proportional to the speed of the fabric take up from the needling zone.

In this experimental work we have taken Polyester staple fibre as a raw material with 70mm length, 1.5 dtex, and 1.38 g/cc density. The nonwoven fabrics were produced by Needle punched, the raw polyester fibers were carded, and then the carded web was converted into batt by cross lappers to produce nonwoven fabrics of 350, 400, 450, 500 and 550 GSM. The batt was subsequently subjected to the action of braded needles in needle punching zone. The needle punched nonwoven fabric was taken out with the speed of 160,170, 180, 190, and 200 cm/min for each GSM. The processing parameters stroke frequency 300/min, input speed of 1.65 mt/min, output speed of 1.9 mt/min and needle board density 42/cm were used for producing the nonwoven fabrics. The with technical specifications of 15 × 18 × 32 × 3 R333 G3027 were used for producing all the needle punched fabric samples.

Table 2.1: Factorial Design of Experiment for single loom

Parameters and its levels GSM of Nonwoven Fabric

Out Put Speed cm/min

350

160

400

170

450

180

500

190

550

200

(a)

(b)

(c) May - June 2018

SPINNING

(d)

(e)

Figure 2.1: Needle Punched Nonwovens Fabric Samples Produced with 200 meters/min Loom Speed, a- Fabric Sample with 350 GSM, b- Fabric Sample with 400 GSM, c- Fabric Sample with 450 GSM, d- Fabric Sample with 500 GSM, e- Fabric Sample with 550 GSM

The 25 fabrics samples were prepared as per factorial design of experiment and tested for its tensile strength, tearing strength, bursting strength and air permeability.

All the prepared nonwoven samples were conditioned 24 hours at standard atmospheric conditions of 20 +20C temperature and 65 +2% relative humidity before to

testing. The standard tests were performed to determine the thickness of the sample by using SDL Atlas M034A Digital Thickness Gauge at pressure 1 kPa. 10 readings were taken to measure the thickness of ten samples for each fabric according to the EDANA standard, ERT 30.5-1999. Breaking Strength and Elongation of Nonwoven Materials (Grab Strength Test) with Nonwovens Standard Procedure number (NWSP) 110.1.R0 (15). Tearing Strength of Nonwoven Fabrics

by Falling Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus with standard test method. NWSP100.1.R0 (15). SDL Atlas M021A Digital Air Permeability tester used to measure air permeability test of nonwovens samples by the EDANA standard, ERT 140.2-1999 5 readings were taken to find mean air permeability of each sample [13]. The results were expressed as m3/m2/min by taking into consideration the unit volume of air that passed through 1 m2of fabric at a pressure difference of100 Pa [14]. HydraulicBursting Strength of Nonwoven Materials Motor Driven Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method NWSP 030.1.R0 (15). The results of all 25 nonwoven fabric samples along with its tested properties were given in following Table 2.2

Sample Nonwoven Loom No. Fabric output GSM Speed 1 350 160 2 350 170 3 350 180 4 350 190 5 350 200 6 400 160 7 400 170 8 400 180 9 400 190 10 400 200 11 450 160 12 450 170 13 450 180 14 450 190 15 450 200 16 500 160 17 500 170 18 500 180 19 500 190 20 500 200 21 550 160 22 550 170 23 550 180 May - June 2018

Thickness Tensile in mm strength in in MD (kg) 2.8 35 2.8 34 2.8 32 2.9 30 2.9 30 3.5 40 3.5 38 3.6 38 3.7 35 3.8 34 4 41 4.2 40 4.4 39 4.6 37 4.9 36 4.5 50 4.8 50 5.1 49 5.3 48 5.4 46 4.9 60 5.2 58 5.5 55

Tensile Strength in CD (kg) 68 66 64 61 59 79 75 74 72 70 80 79 76 75 73 94 91 89 84 82 108 106 105

Tearing Strength in MD (kg) 46 45 38 37 35 55 51 48 46 45 54 53 45 46 44 64 62 54 49 48 83 82 80

Tearing Strength in CD (kg) 25 24 23 21 21 29 27 27 25 24 26 26 28 29 29 37 37 36 35 33 44 43 40

Ball Air Bursting Permeability Strength (kg) m3/m2/min 103 125 100 122 96 121 91 123 89 127 119 112 113 110 112 108 107 111 104 113 116 99 116 98 115 97 115 97 114 96 144 90 141 88 138 88 132 86 128 86 168 82 164 81 160 79 7

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Table 2.2: Factorial Samples and Experimental Test Results

SPINNING 3. Result and discussion 3.1 Thickness The thickness of the fabric increases with increase in loom speed as the number of stitched per unit area reduces with increase in loom speed similarly the time for which the web remain in the punching zone reduces results into increase in thickness with loom speed.

The nonwovens with lower and higher GSM both shows rise in thickness with rise in loom speed.

to low binding point and low strengths. The tensile strength is more in Cross direction as compared with that in Machine direction, as in cross direction fibres are more oriented in the axis of applied force leading to more tensile resistance. Where as in cross direction fibres resist tensile force with binding points and cohesive forces in between fibre surfaces.The nonwoven fabric samples shows loss in tensile strength in machine direction as well as cross direction in with increase in the loom speed was in same proportion for both types of tensile strengths.

Figure 3.2

Figure 3.1: Effect of loom speed on nonwoventhickness of different GSM

y y y y y

= = = = =

0.03x 0.05x 0.07x 0.11x 0.11x

+ + + + +

2.75 3.43 3.89 4.41 5.03

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Above equations shows 1 to 5 shows the linear relationship of fabrics with GSM 350, 400, 450, 500 and 550 respectively, manufactured at loom speed five different loom speeds. Where y is fabric thickness and x is the loom speed. These equations clearly indicates that, the relative rise in thickness is more for higher thickness as compared with the lower GSM. 3.2 Tensile Strength in Machine and Cross Direction The tensile strength of the nonwoven samples in machine and in cross direction is explained in figure 3.2 and III respectively. It is observed that the tensile strength is more dependent the GSM on the fabric as compared with the loom speed. This is because of the more number of fibres available for sustaining the external tensile force applied on it. The tensile strength slightly reduces with increase in loom delivery speed due less number of stitches at higher loom speed leads 8

Figure 3.3

3.3 Tearing Strength in Machine Direction and Cross Direction The figure 3.4 and 3.5 clarifies effect of loom speed and fabric GSM on tearing strength of the nonwoven samples in machine and in cross direction. It is observed that the Tearing strength has small decrease with rise in the loom speed. On the other side it is more dependent the GSM on the fabric and shows substantial rise in tearing strength with rise in GSM of the fabric. Sincewith higher GSM more number of fibres subjected shear to break or slip due to shearing force and thus for higher GSM fabric samples shows higher tearing strengths. The Tearing strength slightly reduces with increase in loom delivery speed due less number of stitches at higher loom speed leads to low binding point and low strengths. The Tearing strength is more in Machine direction as compared with that in Cross direction, when tear is applied in machine direction fibres leads to accumulate together and resist to tear are more oriented in the axis of applied force leading to more Tearing resistance. When tearing force is applied in cross direction fibres in the batt splits and shows low resistance to applied tearing force. Similar to that of tensile strength, the tearing strength of the nonwoven fabric samples shows loss in tearing strength in machine direction as well as cross direction.

3.4 Bursting Strength The figure VI outlines effect of loom speed and fabric GSM on bursting strength of the nonwoven samples. It is observed that the bursting strength decreases with May - June 2018

SPINNING

Figure 3.4: Effect of loom speed on nonwoven Bursting Strength in Cross Direction of different GSM

3.5 Air Permeability

Figure 3.5 : Effect of loom speed on nonwoven Air Permeability of different GSM

The figure3.5 explains effect of loom speed and fabric GSM on Air Permeability of the nonwoven fabrics denoted the amount of air pass through the fabric per unit area per unit time at constant applied pressure. It is detected that the air permeability of the fabric is more on the GSM of fabric and shows substantial rise in air permeability with decrease in GSM of the fabric.

Since with higher GSM more number of fibres in the cross-section of the fabric and thus more resistance to the passage of the air through the fabric. It is also found that with rise in speed of the loom air permeability reduces for 350, 400 and 450 GSM fabric samples, whereas for 500 and 550 GSM fabric samples air permeability initially reduces and then increases. The continues small reduction in air permeability for 350, 400 and 450 GSM is due to the reduction in the number of micro holes created during needle punching, leads to reduction in air permeability. In the 500 and 550 GSM fabric samples initially decrease is due to decrease in number of holes crated during punching, up to 180 cm/min. further from 180 cm/min to 200cm/ min air permeability increases with loom speed this is due to higher bulk and more availability of space to pass the air through fabric surface.

4. Conclusion The above experimental results shows that loom speed of needle punching machine and GSM of the fabrics effects the nonwoven fabric mechanical and performance properties. Thus it is required to set these to parameters as per the requirements of the final application of manufactured needle punched nonwoven fabric.The results and discussion given in this paper is considered range of GSM and Loom speed, this trends and relations may vary for parameters out of the considered range of experiment.The results may also vary with change in the technology of nonwoven web formation or bonding method adopted to manufacture nonwoven fabric. The factorial method adopted in this experimental study is useful to optimize the process parameters and get desired quality in final fabric produced.

5. Acknowledgement The authors are grateful to Dr. P.P.Raichurkar Associate Dean SVKM's NMIMS MPSTME CTF, Shirpur for the continuous guidance and support.

Figure 3.6 : Effect of loom speed on nonwoven Air Permeability of different GSM May - June 2018

9

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

increase in the loom speed. On the other side it is more dependent the GSM on the fabric. The bursting strength of the nonwoven considerably rise with rise in GSM of the fabric. Since with higher GSM more number of fibres to resistance to bursting force to break or slip due to shearing force and thus for higher GSM fabric samples shows higher bursting strengths. The bursting strength slightly reduces with increase in loom delivery speed due less number of stitches at higher loom speed leads to low binding point and low strengths.

SPINNING References 1. Albrecht, Wilhelm, Hilmar Fuchs, and Walter Kittelmann,Nonwoven Fabrics: Raw Materials, Manufacture, Applications, Characteristics, Testing Processes, John Wiley & Sons, 3, (2006).

2. Russell, Stephen J., Handbook of nonwovens, Woodhead Publishing,2, (2006).

3. Adanur, Sabit, Wellington Sears Handbook of Industrial Textiles. CRC Press, 149, (1995).

4. Horrocks, A. Richard, and Subhash C. Anand, Handbook of Technical Textiles, Elsevier, 131, (2000).

5. Anandjiwala, Rajesh D., and Lydia Boguslavsky, Development of Needle-Punched Nonwoven Fabrics from Flax Fibers for Air Filtration Applications, Textile Research Journal, 78, (7), 614-624 (2008).

6. Salim, Muhamad Saifuddin, Effect of Stitching Density of Nonwoven Fiber Mat Towards Mechanical Properties of Kenaf Reinforced Epoxy Composites Produced By Resin Transfer Moulding (RTM), Key Engineering Materials, Trans Tech Publications, 471, (2011).

7. Sakthivel, S., J. J. Ehzil Anban, and T. Ramachandran, Developmentof Needle-Punched Nonwoven Fabrics From Reclaimed Fibers for Air Filtration Applications, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 9, (1), (2014).

8. Roy, Alok Nath, and Prabir Ray. "Optimization of Jute Needle-Punched Nonwoven Fabric Properties: Part I-Tensile Properties." Journal of Natural Fibers, 6, (3), 221-235, (2009).

9. Subramaniam, V., M. Madhusoothanan, and C. R. Debnath, Air Permeability of Blended Nonwoven Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 58 (11), 677678, (1988).

10. Mieck, KP., R. Lützkendorf, and T. Reussmann, Needle? Punched Hybrid Nonwovens of Flax and PP Fiber Textile Semi Products for Manufacturing of Fiber Composites, Polymer composites, 17, (6), 873-878, (1996).

11. Kuo, Chung-Feng Jeffrey, Te-Li Su, and ChengPing Tsai, Optimization of The Needle Punching Process for The Nonwoven Fabrics With Multiple Quality Characteristics By Grey-Based Taguchi Method, Fibers and Polymers, 8, (6), 654-664, (2007).

12. Martínez-Hergueta, F., A. Ridruejo, C. González, and J. LLorca, Deformation and Energy Dissipation Mechanisms of Needle-Punched Nonwoven Fabrics: A Multiscale Experimental Analysis, International Journal of Solids and Structures, 64,120-131, (2015).

13. Kothari, V. K., A. Das, and A. Sarkar, Effect of Processing Parameters on Properties of Layered Composite Needle-Punched Nonwoven Air Filters, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 32, (2), 196-201, (2007).

14. Çinçik, Emel, and Erdem Koç. An Analysis on Air Permeability of Polyester/Viscose Blended NeedlePunched Nonwovens, Textile Research Journal, 82, (5), 430-442, (2012).

15. Koerner, George R., and Robert M. Koerner, Puncture Resistance of Polyester (PET) and Polypropylene (PP) Needle-Punched Nonwoven Geotextiles, Geotextiles and Geomembranes, 29, (3), 360-362, (2011).

16. Rawal, Amit, and Rajesh Anandjiwala, Relationship between Process Parameters and Properties of Multifunctional Needle Punched Geotextiles, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 35, (4), 271-285, (2006). ❑❑❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

ADVERTISE IN

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION For more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922 E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com Website: www.textileassociationindia.org 10

May - June 2018

WEAVING

PEER REVIEWED

Study on Polyamide-Cellulose and Polyester-Cellulose Blends for Uniform Cloth of Defense Personnel M. S. Parmar*, Maheshwar Singh & Nidhi Sisodia Northern India Textile Research Association Abstract Clothing plays an important role to protect soldiers from varying environmental and war zone conditions.

The functional properties of clothing affect the operational efficiency of soldiers. Currently polyester (polyethylene terephthalate) - cotton blended fabric is predominantly in use for development of uniform for Military and Paramilitary troops in India. As the challenges of battlefield fight are increasing, there is a need for further improvement of combat clothing system, which can face the new challenges. In this work three blends of woven fabrics comprising polyamide 66 & cotton, polyamide 66 & excel and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) & cotton were produced. These fabrics were dyed, printed and finished. The finished fabrics were evaluated for safety (flammability), comfort and wear life properties. Results revealed that the safety, comfort and wear life properties of the polyamide 66 blended fabrics were better than the corresponding properties of polyethylene terephthalate & cotton blended fabric. The effect of various fibre blends on air permeability, water vapour permeability, tensile and tear strength were evaluated using one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA).

Keywords Comfort, Excel, PA 66, PET, Safety

*All the correspondence should be addressed to, M. S. Parmar, Northern India Textile Research Association, Sector-23, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad, India Email : drmsparmar@nitratextile.org, msprmr@yahoo.com May - June 2018

develop various blends of Polyamide 66 (PA 66) and cellulose fibres (cotton and excel) and compare them with the existing Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) and cotton blended fabric for comfort, wear life and safety related properties.

2. Materials and methods 2.1 Fibre property In this study PA 66, Sanker 6 variety of cotton, Excel (M/s Birla Cellulose) and PET fibres were used. The properties of these fibres are given in the Table 1. The single fibre denier of PET, PA 66 and excel fibres were determined using Vibro Skop-400, Lenzing, Austria. The breaking strength, elongation and tenacity properties of these fibres were determined by Vebrodyne, Lenzing, Austria. The properties of cotton fiber were determined using High Volume Instrument (HVI). Comb sorter and Fibrograph instruments were used to determine length of the fibres. From the Table 2.1 it is clear that tenacity of PA 66 and PET fibres is 6.61 g/denier and 6.29 g/denier respectively. The tenacity of excel fibre is 4.19 g/denier is higher than cotton fibre (2.55 g/denier). The moisture regain of PA 66 and PET fibres is 4.0% and 0.4% respectively. It is also explicit from the Table-1 that moisture regain of excel fibre (11.2%) is much higher than cotton (7.5%).

Other properties of fibres are also given in the Table 2.1.

11

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction The requirements of soldier's clothing are quite different from the civilian clothing as soldiers are exposed to adverse environmental conditions quite often than civilian. Therefore the civilian clothing is not adequate for defense personnel [1]. Today's the battle is not only fought in jungle or remote area with enemy country but in majority of the cases it is fought in congested urban streets with home rebel and terrorists. To face these challenges in addition to the regular armed forces, India also has several paramilitary forces. All these paramilitary and military forces are having their unique requirements for combat clothing. Currently polyester (PET)-cotton blended fabric is predominantly in use for developing clothing for Military and Paramilitary troops in India [2-5]. As the challenges of battlefield fight are increasing, there is a need of advance integrated combat clothing system, which can face the new challenges. Therefore, it is needed that the clothing should be light weight, durable, comfortable and protect soldier from various types of hazards. Keeping this in mind an attempt has been made in this study to

WEAVING Table 2.1: Fibre properties

Test Results Test Parameters

PET

Excel

Cotton

PA 66

Fibre Denier CV% (ASTM D-1577)

1.03 6.89

1.18 10.70

1.64 32.39

1.74 9.23

Fibre length (mm) ASTM D 5867

38.7

38.0

29.5

35.92

Breaking Strength, gms CV% of Strength (ASTM D-3822)

6.46 8.09

4.19 16.28

4.00 46.62

11.46 25.60

Tenacity (gm/denier) (ASTM D-3822)

6.29

4.19

2.55

6.61

Elongation at break,% CV% of Elongation (ASTMD-3822)

17.04 19.59

11.04 17.27

7.84 32.50

8.09 25.12

Moisture regain, % (IS 199)

0.4

11.2

7.5

4.0

2.2 Yarn manufacturing For comparison purpose 50:50 blend ratio was selected for each blend. Blend particular and their ratio are given in the Table 2.2.

Two counts of yarns (2/40s Ne for warp and 16s Ne for weft) were produced from each blend as given in Table 1. These yarns were spun on Ring Spinning System and tested for various properties as shown in the in the Table 2.3.

Table 2.2: Yarn blend particular

Blend particular

Blend (%)

Polyester (PET) and cotton(P/C)

50:50

PA 66 and cotton(PA/C)

50:50

PA 66 and Excel(PA/Ex)

50: 50

2.3 Fabric manufacturing and analysis Fabric samples using PA/C, PA/Ex and P/C blended spun yarns were manufactured at pilot plant level on Tsudakoma Zax-N Air jet loom with 550 r.p.m and 65 inch loom width. Rip stop plain weave was used for manufacturing these fabrics. Fabric samples so devel-

The Textile Association (India) Visit us on www.textileassociationindia.org

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Follow us on

12

May - June 2018

WEAVING Table 2.3: Properties of yarn

Test Results P/C

PA/C

PA/Ex

2/40s Ne Warp

16s Ne Weft

2/40s Ne Warp

16s Ne Weft

2/40s Ne Warp

16s Ne Weft

Yarn Lea Count, Ne CV% (IS: 1315)

19.6 1.9

15.7 2.3

19.9 1.8

16.4 1.8

20 1.2

17.1 1.3

Lea strength, lbs CV% CSP (IS:1671)

173.5 2.7 3401

204.1 4.7 3204

217 2.4 4318

240 2.2 3936

221.3 2.2 4426

234.7 2.1 4013

Uster U% CV% (ASTM

8.83 11.13

8.31 10.49

8.08 10.21

7.72 9.84

8.48 10.71

8.47 10.71

Imperfections/Km -Thin Places (-50%) -Thick Places (+50%) -Neps (+200%)

0.3 6.3 3.8

0 6.5 6.0

0 9.3 11.3

0 16 17.3

0 4 17

0 6.3 11

Hairiness, H (ASTM D 5647)

7.32

8.02

5.92

6.23

8.54

10.01

RKM (gms/tex) CV% (ASTM D 2256)

19.07 7.5

18.08 7.1

23.38 5.7

20.96 6.2

23.83 8.3

22.86 9.1

Elongation at Break% CV% (ASTM D 2256)

11.07 17.3

10.17 18.7

8.74 5.6

9.22 8.6

10.16 6.1

11.24 6.0

TPI CV% (ASTM D 1422)

21.3 3.25

16.6 2.3

19.6 4.8

16.4 5.0

17.5 2.1

12.7 2.8

D-1425)

oped were desized, scoured and neutralized under identical conditions. These fabric samples were dyed, printed and finished before evaluation for various properties.

Dyeing and printing of the PA/Ex, PA/C and P/C fabric were carried out using vat dye only to maintain similar conditions.

2.4 Comfort properties Following comfort properties of fabric samples were determined: 2.4.1 Moisture regains Moisture regains of the fabric samples were determined as per IS 199 test method.

2.4.2 Air permeability The air permeability of the fabric samples was tested as per BS 5636. The mean air permeability was averaged from 20 observations for each fabric samples.

May - June 2018

2.4.3 Water vapour transmission Water vapour transmission (WVT) of fabric samples was measured in accordance with ASTM E96. The water vapour permeability is a measure for breathability or for a textile's ability to transfer moisture. The measurements determine how many grammas of moisture (water vapour) pass through a square meter of fabric in 24 hours (the higher the level, the higher the breathability).

2.5 Wear life Abrasion resistance is used to quantify, approximate wear life of the textile material in normal use. This is determined by undergoing the textile to the mechanical action of devices which are called abrasion tester, and which simulate, more or less, the wear by abrasive action. The concept "abrasion" develops a complex phenomenon where the abrasive or rubbing action makes linear or radial tractions. Wear in textile mate13

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Test Parameter

WEAVING rials is one of a limited number of fault factors in which an object loses its usefulness and the economic implication can be of enormous value to the industry.

As wear usually occurs by rubbing together of two surfaces, abrasion is often used as a general term to mean wear.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

As per ASTM D 4966 the resistance of textile materials to abrasion as measured on a testing machine in the laboratory is generally only one of several factors contributing to wear performance or durability as experienced in the actual use of the material. While "abrasion resistance" and "durability" frequently are related, the relationship varies with different end uses, and different factors may be necessary in any calculation when trying to predict durability based on findings from specific abrasion tests.

Two methods-Martindale abrasion test and Taber abrasion test were taken to test wear properties of the material. The Martindale Abrasion Resistance is determined by the Martindale Method (IS: 12673). The test is conducted for 50,000 cycles and observation was made when one yarn was broken. While in the Taber abrasion test (guideline of ASTM D 3884), two taber abrasive wheels (CS-10) were used and applied 500 g load onto the specimen surface. Characteristic rubwear action is produced by contact of the test specimen against the sliding rotation of the two abrading wheels. As the turntable rotates, the wheels are driven by the sample in opposite directions about a horizontal axis displaced tangentially from the axis of the sample.

One abrading wheel rubs the specimen outward toward the periphery and the other, inward toward the center while a vacuum system removes loose debris during the test. The wheels traverse a complete circle on the specimen surface, revealing abrasion resistance at all angles relative to the weave or grain of the material. The resulting abrasion marks form a pattern of crossed arcs in a circular band that cover an area approximately 30 cm2. The test was continued until the hole is formed.

2.6 Tear and tensile strength Tear strength is the resistance of the fabric to tearing.

The test was carried out to determine the force required to propagate a tear, through a specified distance and from a specified slit, cut in a test specimen and under specified conditions of loading. In this four specimens of warp and weft were cut with the help of specimen template. For the test, the specimen was secured in the grips of tearing strength tester so that 14

the longer edge of the specimen was parallel to top or grips. A cut was made to specimen by lowering the knife. The pendulum was released and readings were noted. The tearing strength was tested as per IS 6489 test method.

Tensile strength is the maximum load or force supported by a specimen in a tensile test carried to rupture. The tensile strength test was tested as per IS 1969. During the testing of tensile strength, elongation at break was also determined. Elongation at break, also known as fracture strain, is the ratio between changed length and initial length after breakage of the test specimen.

Safety (Flammability) ISO 15025 method A (Surface ignition) test method was used to test limited flame spread of vertical oriented materials. This method is mostly used to test flammability behavior of work wear and protective garments.

In this method a defined flame from a specified burner is applied for 10 seconds to the surface of textile specimen which are vertically oriented. Information is recorded on the spread of flame, formation of flaming or molten debris, hole formation, after flame time and afterglow time. The pass fail criteria were adjudge by the following as per the specification ISO 11612: ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

No specimen shall suffer flaming to the top or either side edge, No hole formation, No flaming or molten debris The mean value of after flame and afterglow time shall be ?2 s

2.7 Statistical Analysis Experimental data were analyzed using SPSS (Version 20). One-way ANOVA was used to compare means.

The null hypothesis (Ho) is that there is no relationship between fabrics of different fibre blends with water vapour permeability, air permeability, tensile strength and tear strength. The alternative hypothesis is that there is a relationship between fabric of different fibre blends with water vapour permeability, air permeability, tensile strength and tear strength. The Ho will be rejected when the p-value turns out to be less than a predetermined significance level, i.e 0.05.

May - June 2018

WEAVING

Figure 3.1: Blend vs Moisture Regain

3.2 Air permeability The resistance of a fabric to the flow of air is measure of the initial warm/cool feeling when garment is worn.

The higher the air flow value, the greater the intensity of the warm/cool feeling will be. The effect of air permeability on comfort properties is much greater when the speed of air is high, as in the case of stormy weather conditions. The results of air permeability, in terms of the amount of air passing through a unit fabric area per unit time, are given in the Table 3.1. The results from the Table 3.1 indicate that P/C blended fabrics permit lesser air to pass through as compared to PA/Ex and PA/C blended fabrics. PA/Ex blend shows higher air permeability. The earlier work done [7] has also indicated that the fabric made out of 100% Excel fibre allow passing more air than 100% cotton May - June 2018

fabric. It is also explicit from Tables 3.2 that p value is < 0.05, so we reject the null hypothesis. This indicates that there is a relationship between fabric fibre blends and air permeability.

3.3 Water Vapor Permeability An ideal fabric should allow water vapour on skin (perspiration) to pass through its pores, irrespective of the fibre material's natural absorbency. If the water vapour cannot escape at a faster rate than it is released by the skin, the wearer feels uncomfortable. In order to assess the fabric's ability to permit moisture through it in a steady state, vapour transfer is measured with a MVTR cell. The results of all the samples in terms of the amount of vapour passed in grams per 24 hrs per square meter of fabric surface area are shown in the Table 3.2. From the Table 3.2 it is clear that the water vapour permeability of the PA/Ex (1788 g/m2/day) is higher than the other fabric samples. It is also explicit from Tables 3.2 that p value is < 0.05, so we reject the null hypothesis. This indicates that there is a relationship between fabric fibre blends and water vapour permeability.

3.4 Fabric abrasion The durability of the fabrics is tested using Martindale and Taber abrasion tests. The Martindale test was carried out up to 50,000 abrasion cycles. From the Table 3.2, it is clear that there is no thread is broken after 50,000 abrasion cycles for all the fabrics. However when these samples were tested for Taber abrasion, it was found that in the P/C fabric, first hole formation was observed up to 750 abrasion cycles, while there was no hole formation in the PA/C and PA/Ex fabric samples up to 1000 cycles of abrasion.

This test indicates that PA/C and PA/Ex fabrics will have better durability than P/C fabric.

3.5 Tear and Tensile strength Tear and tensile strength of PA/C and P/Ex fabrics were also found to be better than P/C fabric as shown in the Table 3.2. The higher tear and tensile strength can be attributed to higher tenacity of PA and Excel fibres (Table 2.2) than polyester and cotton fibres respectively. Better tensile and tear strength of PA/C and PA/Ex than P/C also indicates better durability of these fabric than P/C. It is also explicit from Tables 3.3 that p value is < 0.05, so we reject the null hypothesis. This indicates that there is a relationship between fabric fibre blends and tear and tensile strength.

15

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3. Results & discussion 3.1 Moisture regain Moisture regain also contributes to the comfort property of the fabric. The moisture regains of all the three blends are shown in the Fig.1. The moisture regain of the P/C (50:50) was found to lower than other blends.

The reason of lower moisture regain of this blend is due to the fact that this blend contains 50% polyester fibre, which is having moisture regains 0.4% (Table 1), lowest among the other fibres. Due to this the effective moisture regains of the P/C (50:50) is only 3.8 % as shown in the Fig. 1. On the other hand the PA/C blends are having higher moisture regains (Fig. 3.1) than P/C blends. This is due to the fact that the PA 66 fibre used in the blend is having moisture regain (4.0%) as shown in the Table 1, which is higher than the polyester fibre. It is clear from the Fig. 3.1 that PA/Ex blend is having higher moisture regains than others.

The higher moisture regains of this blends is due to higher moisture regain of the constituents fibres of this blends i.e Excel (11.2%) and PA 66 (4.0%).

WEAVING 3.6 Flammability behavior Flammability test was carried out to test the safety aspect of these fabrics. The results of the test are given in the Table 3.2. From the Table 3.2, it is clear that when the samples were tested in accordance with ISO 15025 (Method A), PA/C and PA/Ex samples

passed the minimum criteria. However, P/C fabric did not qualify the criteria of passing as the hole formation and melting & dripping behavior was observed. The melt & drip property of the P/C indicates that during the fire accident, there may be chances of skin injuries due to sticking of this material to the skin of the wearer.

Table 3.1: Test results of finished fabric

Characteristics

Test Result P/C (50:50)

PA/C( 50:50)

PA/Ex (50:50)

End/inch (IS 1963) Picks/inch (IS 1963) Mass, gm/m2 (IS 1964)

97 54 210

99 54 223

93 53 209

Breaking strength, Newton (IS 1969) - Warp-wise - Weft-wise

772 687

1093 748

1186 752

Elongation at break, %, (IS 1969) - Warp-wise - Weft-wise

13 12

30 18

25 15

Tearing Strength, Newton, (IS 6489) - Warp-wise - Weft-wise

4390 4450

4410 4490

6210 6840

Martindale Abrasion Resistance, (IS: 12673), -Up to 50,000 cycles

No thread breakage

No thread breakage

No thread breakage

Taber Abrasion Resistance (Guideline of ASTM D 3884) CS-10, Load 500 g

Hole formation observed at 750 cycles

No hole formation observed up to 1000 cycle

No hole formation observed up to 1000 cycle

Table 3.2: ANOVA test - Water vapour permeability (WVP) and Air Permeability of various fibre blend fabrics

Property

Sources of variation Sum of Squares df

Mean Square F

Sig. (p)

WVP

Between groups

458460.000

2

229230.000

9640.514

.000

Within group

642.000

27

23.778

Total

459102.000

29

Between groups

1.465

2

.732

16.914

.000

Within group

1.169

27

.043

Total

2.634

29

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Air Permeability

Make more people aware of your brand and services 16

May - June 2018

WEAVING Table 3.3: ANOVA test - Tensile and Tear strength of various fibre blend fabric

Sources of variation Sum of Squares df

Mean Square F

Sig. (p)

34061.150

.000

409.219

.000

Tensile strength - Between Groups

943620.000

2

471810.000

warp way

Within Groups

374.000

27

13.852

Total

943994.000

29

Tensile strength - Between Groups

25220.000

2

12610.000

warp way

Within Groups

832.000

27

30.815

Total

26052.000

29

Tear strength -

Between Groups

21842706.867

2

10921353.433

warp way

Within Groups

79.800

27

2.956

Total

21842786.667

29

Tear strength -

Between Groups

37457240.267

2

18728620.133

weft way

Within Groups

209.600

27

7.763

Total

37457449.867

29

4. Conclusion Following conclusions can be drawn from the study: 1. The spinning of PA 66 blended fibres is done on the existing ring spinning system.

2. The wear life of PA/Ex and PA/C fabrics is better than the P/C fabric as indicated by Taber abrasion property. In the case of PA/C and PA/Ex fabrics, there was no hole formation up to 1000 cycles while in the case of P/C fabric, hole formation was observed at 750 cycles. The higher wear life of PA blended fabrics also help in compensating the higher cost of PA fibre used in these blends. The tear and tensile strength of PA/Ex and PA/C blended fabrics are also higher than the P/C blended fabric.

3. The comfort property of the PA/Ex fabric is found to be better than PA/C and P/C fabrics as the water vapour permeability and air permeability properties of the PA/Ex fabric are better than PA/C and P/C fabrics.

4. It is found that the P/C fabric fails the passing criteria as it shows hole formation and melting & dripping behavour during flammability test. While PA blended fabrics pass the criteria. This indicates that the uniform cloth made of polyester (PET) fibre, if exposed to heat or flame, there will be chances that the fibre melts and sticks to the skin of the wearers and thus may cause severe burn injury.

5. Acknowledgement Authors are thankful to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India for funding this project from the finding of which May - June 2018

3695194.771 .000

2412560.800 .000

this paper is produced. Our special thanks are so due to TRADC, Birla Cellulose and M/S Alok Industry Ltd for providing facility for carrying out fabric manufacturing, dyeing and printing trials References 1. Juodsnukyte Daiva, gutauskas Matas and Cepononirne Elyte, Mechanical stability of fabrics for military clothing, Mater. Sci., 12 (3), 243- 246 (2006).

2. Rao J.V. and Parmar M.S., Resume of papers, 51st Joint Technological Conference, India, 10th April, 1-7, (2011).

3. Parmer M.S, Singh M., Singh Santosh K and Sachdeva Preet Kaur, A Review on National and International scenario on combat uniform, Asian Text. J., 55-57, June (2011).

4. Parmar M.S., Singh M., Singh Santosh K, Rao J.V, Hada S.K. and Sachdeva Preet Kaur, Manufacture of NYCO fabric for paramilitary and military combat uniform"Asian Textile Journal, Asian Text. J., 55 December (2011).

5. Parmar M.S., Sachdeva Preeti Kaur, Singh M., Hada S and Rao J.V, Combat uniform cloth from various blends: A comparative study for the purpose of safety and comfort of soldiers, Colourage, 62-66 December (2012).

6. Adamiak Marcin, Abrasion Resistance of Materials, Publisher: InTech, Croatia,121 (2012).

7. Bhattacharya S.S and Ajmeri J.R, Factors Affecting Air Permeability of Viscose & Excel Single Jersey Fabric, Int. J. Eng. Dev., 5, 48-54 (2013). ❑❑❑ 17

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Property

PEER REVIEWED

DYEING

Application of Delonix Regia Stem Shell Wasteon Wool Fabric for Natural Dyeing and Ultraviolet Protection M. D. Teli* & Pintu Pandit Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Abstract This paper discusses about dye extraction from the stem shell waste of Delonixregia and its application on wool fabric. Optimal results were achieved for dyeing at 90°C for 60 minutes at 30% concentration of the dye on the weight of fabric using pre-mordanting and post-mordanting dyeing techniques. Dyeing on wool fabric with and without mordants showed very good to excellent results in terms of different hues of colour.

Treated fabrics showed substantial increase in colour depth and good to very good wash, light and rubbing fastness properties both with and without mordants dyed wool fabric. The results also confirmed that natural dye from Delonixregia stem shell extract has potential applications for wool dyeing and producing excellent ultraviolet protection property even after ten washes.

Keywords Wool, Delonixregiastem shell waste, Natural dyeing, Fastness, Ultraviolet protection.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Introduction Now a daysnatural dyeing has found in increasing global demand whichhas created many opportunities for the utilization of natural source. The dyes that are obtained from natural resources are called 'natural' dyes.

Due to environmental awareness, interest in natural dyes has risen mainly among environmentally conscious people. Natural dyes are eco-friendly as they are renewable, biodegradable, skin friendly and may also provide health benefits.

Delonixregia (Bojer ex Hook) Raffin (Poinciana regia, Royal Poinciana, Gulmohar, Flame tree or Flamboyant, FabaceaeCaesalpinioideae) is a semi-deciduous tree, distributed throughout India, Africa, and Northern Australia. Delonixregiais a medium sized flowering tree whose most of the parts are used for medical purposefound in tropical countries. Flowers of Delonixregiapossess insecticidal, antifertility, wound healing, antifeedant, anthelmintic activities and also inhibit the malaria parasite in humans [1-3]. The leaves of Delonixregia have anti-inflammatory, antiulcer, antifungal and cytotoxic properties by many researchers. Most *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh. D. Teli, Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Matunga (E), Mumbai-400019 Email : mdt9pub@gmail.com 18

of the work has been done with the flower part of this plant on silk and cotton fabric as natural dyeing [4-7].A lot of plant sources like flower waste from the temple, coconut shell extract, Sterculiafoetida fruit shell waste, Emblica Officinalis G. fruit (amla)etc have been utilised for natural dyeing [8-15].

Among the different natural textile fibres, wool fibres are one of the most popular natural proteinous biopolymers widely used as apparels, made-ups and interior textiles material for its comfort and aesthetic qualities.

The present paper thus deals with extraction of colour for Delonixregia stem shell and its application on wool fabric. However, as per the best of our knowledge, no work has been reported on Delonixregiastem shell waste extract as a natural dye on wool fabric. The preferred choice of textile is wool fabric which can be extensively used for shirting, suiting, baby garments etc. especially in winter season.Wool fabric were dyed with the aqueous extract of Delonixregia stem shell in the absence and presence of mordant such as ferrous sulphate, alum and harda for pre and post mordanting techniques. In this work application potential of this natural dyeing and ultraviolet protection on wool fabric has been investigated.

May - June 2018

2. Material and Methods 2.1.Material used for experimental work The ready for dyeing (RFD) plain woven wool fabric (186 GSM) was supplied by Piyush Syndicate, Mumbai, India. The plant specimen Delonixregia stem shell waste was collected from the Institute of Chemical Technology campus, Mumbai. Alum, harda (myrobalan) and ferroussulphate(laboratory grade)mordants were used.

(ISO method II) where in the composite sample was treated in soap solution of 5 g/L at material to liquor ratio 1:50 at 50 ± 2°C for 45 min in a wash fastness tester, followed by washing and drying.Similarly, light fastness and rubbing fastness of the Delonix regia stem shell extract treated fabric samples were also assessed according to ISO 105-B02:2013 and ISO 105-X 12:2002 methods, respectively.

2.2. Extraction methods used for Delonixregia stem shell The oven dried Delonixregiastem shell, were ground to a fine powder in the mixer and it was used as the raw material for dye extraction. The refluxing technique was used to get the coloured solution which was used for dyeing. Extracted dye was then centrifuged for 10 min at 4000 rpm to get undissolved particles to be settled. The supernatant solution was used for dyeing in laboratory rota dyer machine (R. B. electronic and Engineering Pvt. Ltd., India).

2.6. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) analysis The UPF values of the untreated wool fabric and dyed fabric with the extract were measured using a Shimadzu UV-2600 series in the range of 280 to 400 nm, Model UV-2600 (A11665101436). The UPFvalue of each fabric was determined from the total spectral transmittance based on AS/NZS 4399:1996 method. UPF was calculated using mean percentage transmission in the UVA region (315 to 400) and mean percentage transmission in the UVB region (280 to 315). UPF rating and protection categories are tabulated in Table 1.

2.3. Dyeing Procedure Three different mordants (alum, ferroussulphate and harda) were used for dyeing as pre-mordanting and post-mordanting agents. The mordanting and dyeing was carried out in a laboratory rota dyer machine with programmable time and temperature control. The required amount of dye was taken according to the dyeing shade for 10, 30 and 50 %, respectively on theweight of fabric (o.w.f.). Around neutral pH and material to liquor ratio of 1:30 were maintained and dyeing was carried out at 90ºC for dyeing time 60 minutes.

Table 2.1. UPF ratings and protection categories

2.4. Evaluation of dyeing Evaluation of dyeing was done by determination of K/ Sand L*, a*, b* values using computer colour matching system. Colour depth of the samples was evaluated measuring the reflectance values, using SpectraScan 5100+ computer colour matching system. The relative colour strength (in terms of K/S value at ?max of 420 nm) forDelonixregia stem shell extract on wool fabrics was measured using the Kubelka-Munk equation:

where 'K' is the absorption coefficient and'S' is the scattering coefficient and R is the reflectance of the dyed fabric at the wavelength of maximum absorption.

2.5. Fastness Properties The dyed fabric was subjected to washing fastness test using ISO 105 C10: 2006 (no. B), test method May - June 2018

UPF ratings

Protection category

% UVR transmitted

15-24

Good

6.7- 4.2

25- 39

Very good

4.1- 2.6

40-50+

Excellent

<2.5

3. Results and Discussion 3.1. Dyeing of wool fabric withDelonix regia stem shell waste extract It was observed from the results in Table3.1that K/ Svalues of the wool fabric dyed with Delonix regia stem shell extract increased with increase in theconcentrationeven without the use of mordant. When mordant was used before or after dyeing, there has been anincrease in K/S values which is attributed distinctly to the chelation and complex formation of colouring compound with the mordant and thus improving fixation on the fabric giving slightly enhanced K/S values. Different mordants, however influenced this fixation of dye on fabric to different extent. This is attributed to increased amount of colourant getting fixed on the wool fabric.

In case ofpre and post mordanting, the enhancement in the K/S values for the wool fabric was in the following order: FeSO4> harda > alum> without mordant with increase in dye shade % (Refer Table 3.1). Maximum 19

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

DYEING

DYEING Table 3.1. Effect of dye and mordant concentration on K/S and colour co-ordinates

Type of Mordants

Dye conc., (%)

K/S

L*

a*

b*

Without mordant

10

2.19

54.00

7.65

12.47

(WM)

30

4.38

53.44

8.80

13.04

50

5.83

53.92

9.62

14.09

Pre mordanting

Post mordanting

K/S

L*

a*

b*

K/S

L*

a*

b*

10

1.95

56.637

7.968

14.585

2.35

53.411

6.888

11.726

30

2.92

56.568

8.873

14.857

4.43

53.579

8.426

12.835

50

4.23

56.852

9.37

15.448

6.91

52.595

8.762

12.461

Ferrous

10

6.82

48.141

2.252

6.066

5.28

44.738

1.048

3.073

sulphate

30

9.29

48.553

3.5

6.713

8.67

43.591

1.701

2.383

50

10.65

49.366

4.132

7.274

10.75 45.392

3.612

4.686

10

7.45

56.643

3.173

11.256

4.36

58.279

4.754

13.556

30

10.17

55.247

5.394

11.872

6.26

57.222

7.156

14.495

50

11.04

56.902

6.711

13.97

8.28

54.839

8.144

13.825

Alum

Harda

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Note: L*: lightness (0 - black, 100 - white), a*: red-green co- ordinates (positive values - red, negative values green), b*: yellow-blue coordinates (positive values - yellow, negative values - blue).

K/S value was seen in case of wool fabric with ferroussulphate mordant as compared to that with other mordants. However, it was observed that the pre mordanted fabric showed moreK/S value as compared to the post mordanted wool fabric.Delonix regia stem shell extract in combination with alum, ferroussulphate and harda mordants onto woolfabric produced good improvement in colour depth (K/S). From a* and b* values it can be concluded that stem shell extract in combination with ferrous sulphate and harda mordant when used onto wool fabrics, it produced good improvement in colouration and their values were in positive colourco-ordinates in terms of a* (red), b* (yellow) values. Thus they showed shifts in their tones resulting in beautiful gamut of colour as compared to the dyeing obtained without using mordant.Ferrous sulphate and alum mordants are well known for their ability to form coordination complexes and to readily chelate with the dye.Ferrous sulphate and alum mordants are well known for their ability to form coordination complexes and to readily chelate with the dye.

Thus, they showed shifts in their tones resulting in thebeautiful gamut of colours as compared to the dyeing obtained without using mordant. The colouring substance of Delonix regia stem shell contains natural polyphenols and showed the presence of tannin richness[16].

20

3.2. Assessment of Fastness Propertiesof the dyed wool fabric The fastness ratings of wool fabric dyed without and with three different mordants are shown inTable 3.

2.These resultsindicate that the washing fastness of the wool fabrics dyed with Delonix regia stem shell extract was good to very good (4 to 4-5) and the light fastness was of the grade good to very good (5 to 56) which indicates slight fading happened on wool dyed fabric. The colour fastness to rubbing was found to be in the range of 4-5 to 5 i.e. very good to excellent, of the wool dyed with or without a mordant.

The good to very good fastness properties clearly indicates that dye fixed during exhaust dyeing is not just mechanically held by hydrogen bonding, but may be held by the formation of metal chelates in presence of tannin, which was present to a significant extent in Delonix regia stem shell extract. The tannins having phenolic structure, contribute to the formation of metal chelate with different mordants. Hence, after mordanting, these groups improved washing fastness Natural dyes are substantive and require a mordant to get fixed to the fabric and prevent the colour from either fading with exposure to light or washing out[17].

May - June 2018

DYEING 3.3. UV protection property Dyes extracted from various natural resources showed the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) within the range

was not much loss in protection factor in wool fabric even after ten washes without and with different mordants. Analysis of results in Table 3.3 reveals that

Table 3.2. Fastness properties of thewool dyeings without and with use of mordants

Dyeing Parameters Type of Mordants

Washing Fastness

Light Fastness

Rubbing Fastness

Dye conc., % o.w.f.

Types of Mordants

10

4

5

5

5

30

4

5-6

5

5

50

3-4

5-6

5

5

Dye conc., % o.w.f.

Pre

Post

Mordanting Alum (10%)

Wet

Pre

Post

Pre

Mordanting

Post Mordanting

Dry

Wet

Dry

Wet

10

4

4

5-6

6

5

5

5

5

30

4

4

6

6

5

5

5

5

50

4

4

6

6

5

5

5

5

Ferrous sulphate

10

4-5

4-5

6

6

5

5

5

5

(5%)

30

4-5

4-5

6

6

5

5

5

5

50

4-5

4-5

6

6

5

5

5

5

10

4

4

5-6

6

5

5

5

5

30 50

4 4

4 4

5-6 5

5-6 5-6

5 4-5

5

5

5

Harda (10%)

of 15-45 depending on the mordant used [18-19]. UPF of untreated wool fabric which showed 18.49 have good protective abilities and transmission of solar radiation.

There is an excellent improvement of UPF rating of wool fabric after dyeing with Delonix regia stem shell extract without and with threemordanted fabrics. There

post-mordanting of wool fabric with harda and ferrous sulphate showed excellent UPF rating. Maximum UV protection was found in the case of fabric post mordanted with ferrous sulphate. Improvement of UV protection is mainly attributed to the synergistic effect of mordant and Delonix regia stem shell extract as natural dyes. Deep colour dyeing due to presence of tannin also helps to increase in UPF property.

Erratum: Author's name correction In the published article "The Influence of using Different Textile Structures and Yarn Count on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Socks, 2018 Jan-Feb; 78(5):301-308." the spell of one of the author's name is given incorrectly. The Editorial Office of Journal of Textile Association would like to correct the author's name.

The Editorial Office apologizes for any inconvenience that it may have caused.

Doaa H. Elgohary, Y.A Abo & El Amaim was the authors list in the article.

The correct Authors list should be : Doaa H. Elgohary, Y.A. Abo El Amaim And the article should be cited Doaa H. Elgohary, Y.A. Abo El Amaim, The Influence of using Different Textile Structures and Yarn Count on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Socks, Journal of Textile Association, 2018 Jan-Feb;78(5) : 301-308.

May - June 2018

21

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Without mordant

Dry

DYEING Table 3.3. Ultraviolet protection of wool fabric dyed with Delonix regia stem shell extract

Untreated Wool

Without Mordant Alum

Ferrous sulphate

Harda

UV - A (315 - 400 nm)

15.26

1.26

1.14

0.61

1.52

UV - B (290 - 315 nm)

3.87

0.42

0.39

0.23

0.81

UPF (290 - 400 nm)

18.49

50+ (193.50)

50+ (209.87)

50+ (371.12)

50+ (110.78)

UPF (290 - 400 nm) After 5 wash

18.49

50+ (182.61)

50+ (189.34)

50+ (349.72)

50+ (94.56)

UPF (290 - 400 nm) After 10 wash

18.49

50+ (164.83)

50+ (171.67)

50+ (325.08)

50+ (89.74)

Good

Excellent

Excellent

Excellent

Excellent

Protection category

4. Conclusions Delonix regia stem shell extract can be thus successfully employed as natural colorant without mordant as well as with three different selective mordants for dyeing of wool fabric. Wool fabrics showed very good colour depth in terms of K/S values and good to very good overall fastness properties without and with mordants.

Delonix regia stem shell extract shows excellent property for Ultra violet protection even after ten washes.

Thus, it has been a good promise to be used as natural colourant to wool textile giving dyeing and ultraviolet protection properties.

Acknowledgment Author Mr. Pintu Pandit(Senior research scholar), Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai would like to thank the University Grant Commission Special Assistance programme (UGC-BSR) for providing funds for carrying out this research.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Post Mordanting

References 1. De Groot, H. Reactive oxygen species in tissue injury. Hepato-gastroenterology, 41: 328-332 (1994).

2. Deepa, B., & Remadevi, O. K. Larvicidal activity of the flowers of Delonix regia (Bojer Ex Hook.)

Rafin. (Fabales: Fabaceae) against the Teak defoliator, Hyblaea puera Cramer [J]. Current Biotica, 5: 237-240 (2011).

3. Gupta, R. K., & Chandra, S. Chemical investiga22

tion of Delonix regia Raf. flowers. Indian journal of pharmacy, (1971).

4. Sethuraman, M.G. & Sulochana, N. The anti-inflammatory activity of Delonix elata. Curr. Sci., 55, 343 (1986).

5. Goel, R.K., Pandey, V.B., Dwivedi, S.P.D., et al.

Antiinflammatory and antiulcer effect of kaempferol, a flavone isolated from Rhamnus procumbens. Ind. J. Exp. Biol., 26:121-124 (1998).

6. Azab, S.S., Abdel-Daim, M. & Eldahshan, O.A. Phytochemical, cytotoxic, hepatoprotective and antioxidant properties of Delonix regia leaves extract. Med. Chem. Res.,22: 4269-4277 (2013).

7. Divya, K.R., Vasantha, K. & Manonmani, K. Utilization of flower dyes on silk and cotton using mordant combinations. International Journal of Advanced Life Sciences, 6(2013).

8. Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahalle, K.., Labade, V., & Trivedi R. Application of Tamarind seed coat in dyeing of cotton and silk using catechu and heena.

Journal of the Textile Association, 73:90-95 (2012).

9. Teli, M. D., Valia, S. P., & Kolambkar, D. Flower Waste from temple for dyeing of cotton and cotton/silk. J Text Assoc. 74: 210-214 (2013).

10. Prabhu, K. H., Teli, M. D., & Waghmare, N. G. Eco-friendly dyeing using natural mordant extracted from Emblica officinalis G. Fruit on cotton and silk fabrics with antibacterial activity. Fibers May - June 2018

DYEING 15. Vankar, P. S., & Shanker, R. Eco?friendly pretreatment of silk fabric for dyeing with Delonix regia extract. Coloration Technology, 125: 155160 (2009).

16. Teli, M. D., & Pandit, P. Multifunctionalised silk using Delonix regia stem shell waste. Fibers and Polymers, 18(9): 1679-1690 (2017).

17. Agarwal, B. J. & Patel, B. H. Studies on dyeing of wool with a natural dye using padding techniques. Man-Made Textiles in India, 45: 237241(2002).

18. Saravanan, D. UV protection textile materials.

AUTEX Research Journal 7: 53-62 (2007).

19. Reinert, G., F. Fuso, R. Hilfiker, and E. Schmidt 1997. UV-protecting properties of textile fabrics and their improvement. Textile Chemist and Colorist, 29 (12): 36-43 (1997). ❑❑❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

and Polymers, 12: 753-759 (2011).

11. Teli, M. D., & Pandit, P., A Novel Natural Source Sterculia foetida Fruit Shell Waste as Colorant and Ultraviolet Protection for Wool. Journal of Natural Fibers, 1-7 (2017): 12. Teli, M. D., & Pandit P., Application of Sterculia Foetida Fruit Shell Waste Biomolecules on Silk for Aesthetic and Wellness Properties. Fibers and Polymers, 19 (1):41-45 (2018).

13. Teli, M. D., & Pandit, P., Novel method of ecofriendly single bath dyeing and functional finishing of wool protein with coconut shell extract biomolecules. ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering, 5(9): 8323-8333(2017).

14. Teli, M. D., & Pandit, P., Development of thermally stable and hygienic colored cotton fabric made by treatment with natural coconut shell extract. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 1528083717725113 (2017).

May - June 2018

23

PEER REVIEWED

MANAGEMENT

Need of Skill Development in Hand Made Carpet Industry : A Socio- Economic Perspective Anu Mishra* & B. C. Ray Indian Institute of Carpet Technology Abstract The handmade carpet industry has retained its uniqueness and has maintained its grace even today. The handmade carpet industry is mostly an export oriented and labor intensive industry. In its core objective, this industry is basically a domain specific skill based industry, where people are involved in specific task such as designing, dyeing, carpet manufacturing, finishing etc. In doing so, the industry requires involvement of a huge number of skilled workers with basic traditional knowledge of design, color and craft making.

After globalization, like other industries handmade carpet industry is also facing stiff challenges of 3-C (customer, competition and change). So, with the fast changing market trend and variable taste, it has become very important to understand the demand of the consumers and offer them the desired product with additional features in a limited time frame. Many of the times, it has been felt that due to scarcity of the skilled work force, the bulk orders could not be executed in time. Therefore, the need of skill development in hand made carpet sector has been realized from last few decades. Recently many private, government and non-government organizations have come up with skill development schemes to minimize this gap.

The current study focuses on the need of skill development to ensure sustainability of the handmade carpet industry in the global scenario in terms of in-time delivery of product with desired quality and pricing.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Keywords Artisan, Craft, Handmade carpet, Skill development, Training

1. Introduction The handmade carpet industry occupies a significant role to create employment generation in the villages and under-privileged areas of any country. Since the infrastructural requirement of this industry is not to that of most sophisticated type industry, there is less risk involved in maneuvering of the processes. However, the handmade carpet industry cannot be underestimated in terms of its employability potential and its contribution in GDP [1]. Unlike other industries, this industrycan ensure a sustainable income to the people who are involved in this craft based skillful work. Hence patronizing skill development program for the carpet sector is the beam of rays of morning sun. One of the most important point is prevalent, are we ready for fruitful result? Or burdened with formalities of exhibition? The choice is obvious to become self -reliant, and then we shall be able to make carpet sector a part of vibrant economy of the country like India.

2. Rationale Carpet industry is a labor intensive industry, where *All the correspondence should be addressed to, Anu Mishra, Indian Institute of Carpet Technology, Chauri Road, Bhadohi (U. P.) Email : mishraanu79@gmail.com 24

large number of work force is needed to be involved to achieve desired output. The underlying principles behind the need of skill up gradation are; ◆ To fortify the carpet industry with requisite workforce of required skill and aptitude. ◆ Up gradation of skill of artisans to help them to work with improved tools and accessories. ◆ Application of newly improved and market oriented designs and color combinations. This is being done through skill up gradation programs with regard to different varieties/types of raw materials, carpet designs developed through computer aided design (CAD). ◆ Improvement in technology of yarn dyeing and product appraisal through modern testing equipments. ◆ To orient knowledge of weavers through improved techniques of carpet manufacturing through newly developed looms and corresponding techniques to handle the manufacturing process. ◆ To build awareness among workforce about ongoing scenario in the international market in respect of demand and supply of carpets. ◆ To build awareness among carpet exporters and buyers about standardization of product and process for the industry, Geographical Indication (GI) act and its benefits etc.

May - June 2018

MANAGEMENT

◆ ◆

Building general awareness about desired quality and its importance, consistency, value addition, process improvements etc.

Ensuring a comprehensive advertising and publicity policy to keep the workers informed about the developments in the industry from time to time.

Building general awareness among weavers/ exporters/ contractors about various government sponsored schemes and projects of various departments/ministries. This shall also include awareness about availability of financial support in terms of infrastructure or loan.

3. Methodology Involved 3.1. Development of objectives of skill development Skill development is an essential tool to reduce the poverty. It is helpful not only in improving employability, productivity and sustainable enterprise development, but it also ensures inclusive growth. It facilitates high productivity, increased employment opportunities, growth in income and development of an enterprise. The skill development at organization level takes place mostly in an informal way, i.e. persons acquire skill at the workplace. Such persons do not have a formal certificate and thus earn lower wages and are exploited by employers. They come through informal system due to socio-economic circumstances of the family and the compulsions of earning a livelihood rather than attending a formal course. While their productivity is low, their contribution to the national GDP cannot be ignored. If a system of certification can be created, which not only recognizes their skills but also provides education and training in a mode that suits their purpose. It will not only benefit the workforce to earn a decent living, but also contribute to the national economy by better productivity of this workforce [2].

3.1.1 Analysis of requirements of skills A lack of awareness of training needs is a fundamental barrier to skill development in enterprises. As the Continuing training survey revealed, most enterprises that do not provide training do not see the need to do so and believe that staff is adequately skilled for work [3]. The requirement of skills should be analyzed first, so as to enable the system make an easy to handle mechanism of skill up-gradation program without much interference to the day to day operation/work.

3.1.2 Analysis of Demographic data requirements Potential groups should be identified first and their caste, religion, education, sex, age etc. should be analyzed and categorization of trainee groups should be made accordingly.

May - June 2018

3.1.3 Devising frame work for skill development program The frame work for skill development program should be demand driven. The demand driven conduction of short term training courses based on modular employable skills can be decided in consultation with Industry.

The delivery mechanism of such courses should be as flexible as possible. These can be conducted full time, part timeor during weekends. There should be different levels of programs (foundation level as well as skill up-gradation) to meet demands of various target groups.

Also, there should be the optimum utilization of existing infrastructure to make training cost effective [4].Skills of trainees should be judged by independent assessing bodies, who have not been involved in the process of conduction of the training program to ensure thatthe training is done impartially/ transparently.

3.1.4 Analysis of basic traits of target groups Safety consciousness and safe working practices Carefulness about equipments and tools Punctuality, discipline and honesty Concern for quality Respect for rules and regulations Concern for health and hygiene Cordial relationship and cooperation with co-workers and team Work ◆ Positive attitude and behavior ◆ Sense of responsibility and accountability ◆ Communication skills ◆ Concern for environment and waste disposal. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

3.1.5 Basic qualitative aspects for skill up-gradation program It is important to identifythe 'set of minimum skills', which is sufficient to get an employment in the labor market. In skill up gradation program, sometimes it is needed to incorporate multi-skilling, multi entry and exit, vertical mobility learning opportunities in a flexible manner. Skill up gradation program also allows recognition of prior learning (certification of skills acquired informally). The various skill up-gradation programs should ensure certification of trainees which can be regarded as equivalent to National trade certificate or higher, so that the trained work force can get equal access to any place for the particular job.

3.1.6 Segmental forms of training The entire process of skill up-gradation program needs training in three segmental forms; ◆ Training of trainees - Based on the prior level of learning artisans are trained subsequently to achieve workable skill. ◆ Training of trainers - For conduction of effective and efficient training of trainees the trainers should 25

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

MANAGEMENT ◆

be trained first.

Training of assessors or evaluators - It is an indispensible process in regards to the skill development process.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

3.2. A modular course matrix for carpet industry (for crafts person only) Based on the educational background and status of pre learning (SPL), three levels can be decided as below; ◆ Level 1 Entry Qualification: Class V (Minimum). Higher qualification may be envisaged for specific jobs.

Age: 16 years (Minimum) Terminal Competency: After completion of course the candidate would be able to work as a semi skilled worker.

Duration: 240 h or 3 months. ◆ Level 2 Entry Qualification: Class V (Minimum) & passed Level 1 or equivalent to it. Higher qualification may be envisaged for specific jobs.

Age: 18 years (Minimum) Terminal Competency: After completion of course the candidate would be able to work as a fully skilled worker.

Duration: 240 h or 3 months. ◆ Level 3 Entry Qualification: Class V (Minimum) & passed Level 1 & Level II or equivalent to it. Higher qualification may be envisaged for specific jobs.

Age: 18 years (Minimum) Terminal Competency: After completion of course the candidate would be able to work as a fully skilled worker.

Duration: 240 h or 3 months.

4. Nodal Agencies for Skill up gradation for carpet sector ◆ Director General of Employment & Training (DGET), Ministry of Skill development & Entrepreneurship, Govt. of India& their subsidiaries are in process of establishing industrial training for imparting skills in various vocational trades, including carpet sector to meet the skilled manpower requirements for technological and industrial growth of the trade [5]. ◆ National Skill Development Council (NSDC) set up by Ministry of Finance, Govt. of India and their subsidiaries/ attached bodies. NSDC has been established to enhance the involvement of private sector in the area of skill development.NSDC has been further strengthened by giving the responsibility of setting up Pradhan Mantri Kaushal Kendra (PMKK) to conduct industry-driven courses of high quality with focus on employability [6].

26

◆

◆ ◆

◆

◆

◆

◆

Handicrafts & Carpet Sector Skill council (HCSSC) is one of the apex body in relation to skill development for the Handicrafts and Carpet sector. It is promoted by Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH) and Carpets Export Promotion Council (CEPC) with the inclusive representation of the government, industry, industry associations, workers organizations and civil society organizations, training Institutes and NGOs.It is the organization accountable for skill development of the overall Handicrafts and Carpet sector [7].

Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India and their subsidiaries/ attached bodies.

Indian Institute of Carpet Technology (IICT), Bhadohiworks under the aegis of Development Commissioner (H), Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. The institute conducts a uniquely designed 4 years degree course in Carpet and Textile Technology. In addition to this, various industry and govt. sponsored short term courses in computer aided design (CAD) and dyeing of carpet yarn etc are also conducted for skill up-gradation of artisans associated with carpet industry [8].

Carpet Export Promotion Council (CEPC) works under Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. It plays a key role in connecting the international buyers with Indian carpet exporters by creating sourcing opportunities in India. Apart from this, the Council organizes various training and capacity building programs at different locations throughout India to increase productivity. It also helps in upgrading technical skills of professionals engaged in the sector [9].

Central Wool Development Board (CWDB), Jodhpur, Rajasthanis involved in assisting, promoting, coordinating and harmonizing the activities of various agencies, including private and Non-governmental organization for development of wool & woolen products like handmade carpets. It undertakes arrangement for better marketing and stabilizing the price of wool & products made thereof.

The Wool Research Association (WRA) Thane Mumbai is an organization committed to provide technological and scientific solutions to the wool based industry of India. It provides solutions to various technical and techno-economic problems faced by the industry in a very cost effective mechanism.

Concerned state government authority/ departmentand various non-governmental organizations.

May - June 2018

5. Socio economic benefits for skill up gradation 5.1 Personal Benefits The program is beneficial for the artisan to get awareness regarding various technical as well as non-technical aspects.The other benefits of the program for the artisan includes learning of new techniques of carpet yarn manufacturing, dyeing, designing, carpet weaving, carpet finishing etc.The skill up-gradation program is also beneficial for the artisans who can learn customer tastes, importance of quality and new market interventions. By this approach, artisans may promote their initiative to take advantage of all this so as to emerge as an independent businessman/entrepreneur.

One of the most favorablesituations of skill development program especiallyin context of India is that India is one of the few countries in the world where the working age population will be far in excess of those dependent on them. As per the World Bank, this will continue for at least three decades till 2040. This has increasingly been recognized as a potential source of significant strength for the national economy, provided we are able to equip and continuously upgrade the skills of the population in the working age group.The need of skill development thus plays a pivotal role in all the socio-economic aspects of handmade carpet industry.

5.2. Industrial Benefits The skill up-gradation program upgrades and updates the skill and working methods of artisans and ensures quality production befitting the taste and likings of customers in different market segments. Formation of self-help groups of artisans through this program can be linked to various schemes available with the central and state Government from time to time and eventually to be the voice during policy formulation. With skilled work-force, an organization can supply and execute the order in minimum time.

References 1 S.Srivastava, & K.K.Goswami., Handmade Carpets: The Potential for Socio-economic Growth,The Innovation Journal: The Public Sector Innovation Journal, 12(2), Article 5, (2007).

2. S. Sanghi, &A. Srija, Skill development and productivity of the workforce, Economy matters,3651, (2015). http://www.niti.gov.in/content/skill-development-and-productivity - workforce.

3. Cedefop, Learning while working: how skills development can be supported through workplace learning, (2011). http://www.cedefop.europa.eu/en/ news-and-press/news/learning-while-workinghow-skills-development-can-be-supported-throughworkplace.

4. Report of the Working Group on Skill Development And Vocational Training, set up for preparation of XI plan, Government of India Planning Commission New Delhi (2006). http:// planningcommission.nic.in/aboutus/committee/wrkgrp11/wg11_rpskill.pdf 5. Web site of Directorate General of Training (DGT), Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship, Government of India, http:// www.dget.nic.in/content/innerpage/overviewcts.php 6. h t t p : / / w w w. s k i l l d e v e l o p m e n t . g o v . i n / nationalskilldevelopmentcorporation.html 7. Website of Handicrafts & Carpet Sector Skill council (HCSSC), http://www.hcssc.in/about 8. Web site of Indian Institute of Carpet Technology, Bhadohi, http://www.iict.ac.in 9. http://www.indiancarpets.com/key-function.html

5.3. Social Benefits Through skill up-gradation programs, the artisans can be empowered in terms of improvement in skill in compliance to market demands and growing competition in the market. The increased involvement of artisans with different aspects of carpet trade and manufacturing can help them to be self-reliant.This shall develop in them, the interest to boost the scale of production.The higher output with better quality can fetch higher earnings for the artisans to fulfill their physiological, social and esteem needs. The value addition to the skill and knowledge of artisans confer upon them recognition in the society where the level of skill was a determinant of their social importance.The consumers are largely benefited with variety of products at cheaper price than the past with good quality.

6. Conclusion Acquisition of knowledge and up-gradation of skill are the key driving forces of economic growth and social development for any country. Countries with higher and better levels of skills adjust more effectively to the challenges and opportunities of world of work. China, Japan, Korea are few major players in Asian continent, who largely depend on this aspect. As India moves progressively towards becoming a 'knowledge economy' it becomes increasingly important that the country should focus on advancement of skills. Also, these skills have to be relevant with respect to the emerging needs of economic environment.

May - June 2018

❑❑❑

Texttreasure Success is a science; if you have the conditions, you get the result.

- Oscar Wilde 27

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

MANAGEMENT

TEXPERIENCE

Effective Management of a Textile Institution

S. Srinivasan S.Srinivasan is a textile technologist with Cost Accounting and MBA back ground and has a long experience of about 32 yearsin Textile manufacturing and for a short period in Plastic Manufacturing in India and abroad. He retired as Director (Operation) and has been practicing as a Cost Accountant since 2011.

The subject on "Effective Management of a Textile Institution" is viewed with respect to what is good for the Institution and for the Textile industry - the latter the recipient of the output of the institution. In brief, the subject is discussed in three headings viz: 1. Measures those should be taken to enhance the quality of the students passing out of the institution.

2. Steps to be taken to meet the Goals and Objectives of the institution.(Corporate Management) 3. Meeting the desired goal with minimum resources(effective operational management).

The last two points are applicable to any organisation and discussed in many forums and therefore discussed here only in short.

QUALITY OF THE STUDENTS: A yard sticks to measure the output of an educational institution is the quality of the students it produces. The quality is in terms of, a) Specificknowledge the students obtain in the subject (say Textiles) in particularand b) the life they lead in general (comprising of the initiatives they take, commitment, time discipline, persuasive skills, team spirit, well behaviour, personal hygiene etc. that contribute to their leadership skills).

Although many institutions fare well in the first part, it is the second part that makes a good institution to stand out.

A sharp focus of the management of a professional institution should be in ensuring "100% placement" within, say three months of passing out of the students. In addition, the students should get atleast 25% premium salary compared to competing institutions of the same discipline. Although the qualities said above will help a lot in achieving this target time in and time out, a good liaison by the management of the institute with the leaders of the industry will make things much easier.To be precise, to reach these objectives, a management of an educational institution has to focus on the following:

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Revising the syllabus/curriculum. a) Making a total of 2400 hrs of "Practical Training "in the Textile mills -as MANDATORY before awarding the degree. (The 2400 hrs is based on a calculation of 8hrs/day and 300 days in a year- thus making one-year Practical Training a must). This may be achieved without extending the course duration but by reducing the vacation time. This may be viewed-both by the faculties and the students of an institute as "Uncomfortable" but, it is a step to prepare the students to meet the real situation in the industry where" TIME" is money.

This training will help them to adapt and contribute faster to the 28

May - June 2018

TEXPERIENCE

b)

betterment of the industry.

Incorporate a large number of case studies in the theory-based on actual problems faced by the industry.

Adding Information Technology-the need of the hour to understand "On-line" data monitoring, CAD etc.

2. Enhancing the skills of the teaching faculties by: a) Taking up Consultancy Assignments to solve practical problems of the industry-at no charges to the textile mills. b) Presenting research papers in textile conferences conducted by Research Associations / Textile Associations etc. c) Participating in the meetings conducted by FICCI/ CII/Textile Committee/Textile commissioner etc.

Some "credit hours" may be allotted for each of these activities and making some "minimum credit hours" as a MANDATORY requirement for promotion or even for annual increment of the teaching staff.

3. Involving Technical Experts from the Industry to offer lectures to students on certain specific areasof textile manufacturing like" Raising"," Fancy Yarn",Embroidery" etc.and engage prominent" Organisational behaviour experts"in dealing with workers backed by Trade Unions.The latter suggestion is added, as one often see the fresh recruits from the educational institutions, get embroiled in conflicts with

workers as they expect everything in black and white only.

These management efforts will make the students graduating from an institution to be "the most sought after "in the industry.

MEETING GOALS and OBJECTIVES: From the angle of the "Students "the level of placements, with respect to the "Faculty", the number of inventions commercially accepted, number of papers presented in INTERNATIONAL journals of repute and for the institutions, the number of students applying to join the institution- may be some measure of the goals.

MINIMUM RESOURCES to reach the Goal.

Effective utilisation of resources- especially those are usually not fully utilised-like transport vehicles, building, Testing Lab etc. may be considered. For instance, testing at Lab, the various materials used in Textile manufacturing for MSME textile units, providing Tailoring training to Women at a nominal cost, adopting zero based budgeting etc. are a few examples.

CONCLUSION: The whole aim should be a Win-Win situation for the institution and the students. The former should grow ethically and should be proudly considered as the ALMA MATER of the doyens of the Textile industry.

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX A-15

Recent Trends

A-12, A-13

A.T.E.

A-9

Reliance Industries Ltd.

Cover 1

Canias ERP

Gatefold

Rieter India Ltd.

A-3

China Homelife

A-2

Rieter India Ltd. (Components)

Cover 2

Gentex

A-6

SOURCE INDIA 2018

A-8

GTTES

A-4

Thymas

P-

India Pavilion - Canada

A-11

TEMTECH-2018

A-14

ITMA 2019

A-10

Textile Summit 2018

A-7

Lakshmi Machine Works

A-1

Trutzschler India

A-5

Meera Industries Limited

Cover3

Unitech Techmech

Cover 4

Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd.

A-16

May - June 2018

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

74th All India Tetile Conference

29

TEXNOTE The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects.

This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working in graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of graphene and its application in textiles.

The previous chapter started with the application aspects of graphene and graphene-based materials in the ongoing series. It specifically highlighted recent research progress of graphene-based materials as supercapacitor electrodes.

Designs and applications of such materials as advanced supercapacitor devices were briefly discussed.

The present chapter deals with the graphene-based nanocomposites. This article specifically highlights recent research progress in graphene-based materials in the field of composites. Applications of such materials with desirable properties to meet the specific requirements for the design and configuration of nanocomposites are summarized and briefly discussed.

Chapter 8 GRAPHENE : A WONDER MATERIAL Nanocomposites

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli Graphene, since its discovery has revolutionized and completely redefined modern day technology with its remarkable properties. The research on graphene nanotechnology has exponentially grown due to active interest of numerous universities, R&D establishments, and many more private and governmental bodies around the world. Research on graphene seems to be applicable in every discipline, as of today. The single-layered atom-thick flatbed structure revolutionized the nanotechnology platform since its discovery. To date, several attempts have been made to synthesize graphene on a large scale to address the needs of various industries, particularly the composite industry, in which the use of graphene has dramatically transformed the global market for the production of stateof-the-art composite materials. The addition of graphene to a host matrix has enhanced various properties with promising applications in many industries like aerospace, electronics, energy, structural and mechanical, environmental, medicine, food and beverage. Since, its discovery, graphene has taken the nanotechnology platform by storm, with exponential growth in its applications.

The remarkable properties of graphene make it a "magic bullet" for the composite world. According to Geim, graphene research has reached an unexpected height and has emerged as a champion in the field of applied sciences. Since 2000, there have been numerous research papers published on various synthesis methods 30

and isolation of graphene on a large scale and the figures are still rising continuously.

Graphene Based Nanocomposites Because of graphene's exceptional thermal, mechanical, and electronic properties, it stands out as the most promising material to be a major filling element for composite applications. Graphene nanocomposites at a very low loading show substantial enhancements in their multifunctional aspects compared to conventional composite materials. This not only makes the material lighter with simple processing, but also makes it stronger for various multifunctional applications. The remarkable properties of graphene make is possible to improve the physico-chemical properties of the host matrix upon distribution. It helps in strengthening and increasing the interfacial bonds between the layers of graphene and the host matrix. It is this bonding that decides the emergence of the cumulative properties of graphene in various host materials.

Kuilla et al. (2010), in their extensive review article on graphene-based polymer nanocomposites, have systematically explained the importance and use of graphene in various host materials. They also carried out a remarkable comparison of various nanofillers and listed their important applications in detail. In the world of composites, theoretical analysis plays a crucial role in understanding their mechanisms, molecular interactions, May - June 2018

TEXNOTE

May - June 2018

pand tremendously in every discipline, with many surprises and products in store.

Applications of Graphene Based Nanocomposites Graphene has a great number of applications encompassing engineering, electronics, medicine, energy, industrial, household design, and many more. Shen et al.

(2012) extensively reviewed the biomedical applications of graphene including drug delivery, gene delivery, cancer therapy, biosensing and bioimaging, GObased antibacterial materials, and scaffolds for tissue/ cell culturing. Similarly, Huang et al. (2011) and Choi et al. (2010) explained various phenomena associated with graphene and graphene based materials and their applications in the field of memory devices for electronics, ranging from electrochemical sensors to instrumentation.

Biological Applications of Graphene and Graphene Based Nanocomposites Graphene in various derivatives and in its precursor form has also shown potential applications in biological/medical fields, especially related to toxicity. Hu et al. (2010) demonstrated the antibacterial activity of two types of water dispersible graphene against E. coli with minimum cytotoxic effects on the human participants. The group concluded that GO paper can one day be effectively used in various environmental and biological applications. Liao et al. (2011) demonstrated the cytotoxicity effect of graphene and graphene oxide (GO) materials under controlled physico-chemical parameters. The results showed that GO was more severely hemolytic than graphene and showed high activity under extremely small size. They observed that, when chitosan was coated on GO, the hemolytic activity disappeared completely, showing the biocompatibility of the composite for erythrocytes. They concluded that the biological or toxicological responses of the material were dependent on the particle size, its quality and state, the surface charge, and the oxygen threshold. Similarly, Liu et al. (2011) compared four different types of graphene materials, graphite (Gt), graphite oxide (GtO), GO, and reduced graphene oxide (rGO)) against E. coli, to study the toxicity effects.

The membrane and oxidative stress signals were used to measure the intensity of toxicity. Their results showed that GO was the most severely toxic, followed in descending order by rGO, Gt, and GtO. Santos et al. reported the design, fabrication, and antimicrobial application of a graphene-poly-Nvinyl carbazole (PVK) nanocomposite, resulting in more than 80% microbial inhibition and toxicity towards a broad array of bacteria. The nanocomposite when PEGylated showed ex31

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

and physical properties and their potential applications.

A number of simulation tools provide cumulative or specific results for composite analysis. With the aid of these computational tools, a broad understanding and guide to successful research can be systematically achieved. Such theoretical investigations help the investigators to precisely optimize their case study to perfect the composite product. In past few years, there have been some significant research papers on graphene-based composites with a polymer matrix. Jang and Zhamu (2008) reviewed the processing of graphene nanoplatelets (GNPs) for fabrication of composite materials. Mack et al. (2005) prepared nanocomposites of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibres strengthened by GNP, which they demonstrated to have improved mechanical qualities. Research by Hansma et al. (2007) showed successful fabrication of graphene-based nanocomposites. They successfully optimized the amount and combination of adhesives and high-strength nanostructures (graphene) needed to yield a strong, low-density, lightweight, and damage resistant composite material. Ramanathan et al. (2008) reported an unprecedented shift in the glass transition temperature (????) of a polymer nanocomposite with functionalized graphene sheets. Yu et al. (2007) identified epoxy-based few-layer graphene nanocomposites showing fascinating properties for the electronics industry, ideal for development of thermal-interface-based materials.

According to Luechinger et al. (2008), the introduction of metal nanoparticles in the host matrix along with graphene has attracted many researchers due to the advantage it provides by facilitating an improved interparticle contact (i.e., contact between the metal particle and the host matrix). Watcharotone et al. (2007) fabricated a transparent, electrical conductor by employing a simple sol-gel, spin-coating, chemical reduction, and thermal-curing route. The group used graphene oxide (GO) sheets mixed in the silica solution to obtain metal-encapsulated graphene nanocomposites. In 2008, Chen et al. fabricated graphene conducting paper that was electrically conducting, mechanically strong, and biocompatible. They uniformly dispersed graphene sheets in a solution using vacuum filtration followed by moderate thermal annealing. Cheng et al. (2013) synthesized carbon-coated SnO-graphene sheet composites in a green approach via a single-pot hydrothermal route. The composite was fabricated as an anode material for an Li-ion battery, and it exhibited high storage capacity and improved cyclic performance. The great number of application- and property-oriented possibilities suggests that future research and prospects for graphene based nanocomposites are likely to ex-

TEXNOTE

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

cellent biocompatibility. Many other applications of graphene nanocomposites in the field of electronics and other disciplines have been reported. These include sensors, Li-Ion batteries, fuel cells, solar cells, field emission, super capacitors, thermal transport and stability, packaging industry, corrosion, fire packaging and resistance, and many more. It is expected that, very soon, all these applications will be available from manufacturers to end users at common commercial stores.

Ceramic Reinforced Graphene Nanocomposites and Their Application The recent use of ceramics in graphene-based nanocomposite has sparked a global interest. The introduction of ceramic materials in few-layered graphene results in the formation of a composite, yielding exceptional electrochemical performance with high charge carrier properties. The exploitation of such properties is a boon to the energy industry. Several ceramicgraphene composites like SiC-graphene, Si3N4-graphene, Al2O3-graphene, ZrB2-graphene, ZrO-Al2O3-graphene, BN-graphene, and many more are known to enhance not only electrical properties but also thermal conductivity, refractory, mechanical, antifriction, anticorrosive and biocompatibility properties for diverse applications.

Use of ceramics within graphene matrix can help overcome the brittle nature, lower fracture toughness, and limited thermal shock resistance in the composite industry. The use of ZrB2-graphene is presently known to be used in aerospace industry as a high temperature barrier for space vehicle during the reentry event.

These materials (ultrahigh temperature ceramic composites) are consistently used as the primal infrastructure for the nose caps in space shuttles and military ballistic equipment. Several other ultrahigh temperature ceramic composites have shown promising results. A few ultrahigh temperature ceramic composites are known to exist, for example, carbides of Ta, Zr, Hf, Nb, and borides of Hf, Zr, and Ti, respectively. Recently, Lahiri et al. (2013) have shown that with the introduction of short CNTs as reinforcement within the TaC ceramics, one can induce the formation of multilayers of graphene within the host matrix during the spark plasma sintering. This procedure helps in offering high resistance to pullout which results in higher strength material with delayed fracture.

Graphene Polymer Nanocomposites Polymer matrix nanocomposites with graphene and its derivatives as fillers have shown a great potential for various important applications, such as electronics, green energy, aerospace and automotive industries. As stated 32

earlier, 2-D graphene possesses better electrical, mechanical and thermal properties as well as other unique features, including higher aspect ratio and larger specific surface area as compared to other reinforcements such as CNTs, carbon and Kevlar fibres. It is reasonable to expect some significant improvement in a range of properties in the composites with graphene as nanofiller. The recent success in synthesis of large amount of graphene further promotes the development of graphene based composite and hybrid materials.

Synthesis of Graphene Polymer Nanocomposites Similar to processing other polymer matrix composites, solution blending, melt mixing and in-situ polymerization are the commonly used approaches to produce graphene-polymer composites.

Solution blending Solution blending is the most popular technique to fabricate polymer-based composites wherein the polymer is readily soluble in common aqueous and organic solvents, such as water, acetone, dimethyl formamide (DMF), chloroform, dichloromethane (DCM) and toluene. This technique includes the solubilization of the polymer in suitable solvents, and mixing with the solution of the dispersed suspension of graphene or graphene oxide (GO) platelets. The polymers including polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyacrylamide, polyimides and poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) have been successfully mixed with GO in solution blending where the GO surface was usually functionalized using isocyanates, alkylamine and alkyl-chlorosilanes to enhance its dispensability in organic solvents. In addition, the facile production of aqueous GO platelet suspensions via sonication makes this technique particularly appealing for water-soluble polymers such as poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) and poly(allylamine), composites of which can be produced via simple filtration.

For solution blending methods, the extent of exfoliation of GO platelets usually governs the dispersion of GO platelets in the composite. Thus, solution blending offers a promising approach to dispersing GO platelets into certain polymer matrix. Specifically, small molecule functionalization and grafting-to/from methods have been reported to achieve stable GO platelet suspensions prior to mixing with polymer matrix. Some techniques, including Lyophilization methods, phase transfer techniques, and surfactants have been employed to facilitate solution blending of graphene-polymer nanocomposites. Nevertheless, surfactants may deteriorate composite properties.

May - June 2018

TEXNOTE

In situ polymerization This fabrication technique starts with mixing of filler in neat monomer (or multiple monomers), followed by polymerization in the presence of the dispersed filler.

Then, precipitation/extraction or solution casting follows to generate samples for testing. In situ polymerization methods have produced composites with covalent crosslink between the matrix and filler. In addition, in situ polymerization has also produced non-covalent composites of a variety of polymers, such as poly (ethylene), PMMA and poly (pyrrole).

Unlike solution blending or melt mixing techniques, in situ polymerization technique achieves a high level of dispersion of graphene-based filler without prior exfoliation. It has been reported that monomer is intercalated between the layers of graphite or GO, followed by polymerization to separate the layers. This technique has been widely investigated for graphite or GOderived polymer nanocomposites. For example, graphite can be intercalated by an alkali metal and a monomer, followed by polymerization initiated by the negatively charged graphene sheets. Although the polymerization may exfoliate the graphite nanoplatelets (GNPs), single-layer graphene platelets were not observed.

May - June 2018

Structure Property Relationship TEM and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), are often utilized to examine the dispersion of graphene fillers in composites. Sometimes, the morphological features of dispersed fillers can be missed out due to the tiny platelet thickness and intensity scattering.

Recently, small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and ultra-small-angle X-ray scattering (USAXS) have been increasingly used to examine the aggregation of filler at large material length scale.

In GO-derived and GNP-polymer nanocomposites, the fillers can exist in different forms such as stacked, intercalated or exfoliated, as shown in Figure 1. As compared with the separated phase, increased interlayer spacing (in the order of few nanometres) can be achieved in the intercalated structures. In the exfoliated structure, exfoliated platelets have the largest interfacial contact with the polymer matrix, generally ideal for improvement of various properties of the composites. Due to increased interaction with the polymer matrix, exfoliated phase normally has a curved shape when embedded into a polymer matrix. The rumpled shape of filler then can result in mechanical interlocking, which is one the possible strengthening mechanisms. However, low modulus was also observed in the composite with wrinkled platelets. The material processing methods can also influence the microstructure in nanocomposites. Randomly oriented exfoliated platelets can be achieved using solution blending or in situ polymerization. Platelet restacking or incomplete exfoliation can also result in lower modulus due to decreased aspect ratio.

Figure 1: Filler dispersion in graphene-based nanocomposites: (a) separated, (b) intercalated, and (c) exfoliated phases.

Summary Graphene and polymers-based naonocomposites show promising growth in technology and applications. However, a few key challenges must be addressed and resolved to realize the potential of graphene-based nanocomposites regarding synthesis methods, applications and costs. For example, if we consider the physi33

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Melt mixing Melt mixing technique utilizes a high temperature and shear forces to disperse the fillers in the polymer matrix.

This process prevents the use of toxic solvents. Furthermore, compared with solution blending, melt mixing is often believed to be more cost effective. For graphenepolymer nanocomposites, the high temperature liquefies the polymer phase and allows easy dispersion or intercalation of GO platelets. However, the melt mixing is less effective in dispersing graphene sheets compared to solvent blending or in situ polymerization due to the increased viscosity at a high filler loading. The process can be applicable to both polar and non-polar polymers. Various graphene-based nanocomposites such as, exfoliated graphite-PMMA, graphene-polypropylene (PP), GO-poly (ethylene-2, 6-naphthalate) (PEN) and graphene-polycarbonate, can be fabricated by this technique. Even though the utility of graphene nanofiller is constrained by the low throughput of chemically reduced graphene in the melt mixing process, graphene production in bulk quantity in thermal reduction can be an appropriate choice for industrial scale production.

However, the loss of the functional group in thermal reduction may be an obstacle in obtaining homogeneous dispersion in polymeric matrix melts especially in non-polar polymers.

TEXNOTE cal synthesis methods like sonication, exfoliation, and cleaving of GO, graphene can have a reduced aspect ratio, which can drastically degenerate the reinforcement, bonding interactions, as well as electrical and thermal properties of both the graphene and the nanocomposites. Since graphene tops the charts with its extraordinary properties, the graphene-based product showcases itself in various day-to-day applications.

Due to the quantity and quality of work, graphene has attracted worldwide attention in the last some years since its emergence. It is expected that, by the year 2020, the graphene market will rise by a CAGR of 60%. Such a remarkable growth in the coming years predicts an exponential boom in graphene research and development worldwide. In fact, polymer-based graphene nanocomposites have already paved their way in global markets and are expected to rise even more in future.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

Bibliography 1.

Novoselov K. S., Geim A. K., Morozov S. V., Jiang D., Zhang Y., Dubonos S. V., Grogorieva I. V. and Firsov A. A., Science, 306, 666-669, (2004).

Geim A. K., Science, 324, 1530-1534, (2009).

Potts J. R., Dreyer D. R., Bielawski C. W. and Ruoff R. S., Polymer, 52, 5-25, (2011).

Geim A. K. and Novoselov K. S., Nature Materials, 6, 183-191, (2007).

Winey K. I. and Vaia R. A., MRS Bulletin, 32, 314-319, (2007).

Kuilla T., Bhadra S., Yao D., Kim N. H., Bose S. and Lee J. H., Progress in Polymer Science, 35, 1350-1375, (2010).

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

16.

17.

18.

19.

Jang B. Z. and Zhamu A., Journal of Materials Science, 43, 5092-5101, (2008).

Luechinger N. A., Booth N., Heness G., Bandyopadhyay S., Grass R. N., and Stark W. J., Advanced Materials, 20, 3044-3049, (2008).

Chen H., M¨uller M. B., Gilmore K. J., Wallace G. G. and Li D., Advanced Materials, 20, 3557-3561, (2008).

Cheng J., Xin H., Zheng H. and Wang B., Journal of Power Sources, 232, 52-158, (2013).

Shen H., Zhang L., Liu M. and Zhang Z., Theranostics, 2, 283-294, (2012).

Choi W., Lahiri I., Seelaboyina R. and Kang Y. S., Critical Reviews in Solid State and Materials Science, 35, 52-71, (2010).

Liao K., Lin Y., MacOsko C.W. and Haynes C. L., ACS Applied Materials and Interfaces, 3, 2607-2615, (2011).

Santos C. M., Tria M. C. R., Vergara R. A. M. V., Ahmed F., Advincula R. C. and Rodrigues D. F., Chemical Communications, 47, 8892-8894, (2011).

Fan Y., Estili M., Igarashi G., Jiang W. and Kawasaki A., Journal of the European Ceramic Society, 34, 443451, (2013).

Lahiri D., Khaleghi E., Bakshi S. R., Li W., Olevsky E. A. and Agarwal A., Scripta Materialia, 68, 285-288, (2013).

Xu Y., Hong W., Bai H., Li C. and Shi G, Carbon, 47, 3538-3543, (2009).

Wakabayashi K., Pierre C., Dikin D. A., Ruoff R. S., Ramanathan T., Brinson L. C. and Torkelson J. M., Macromolecules, 41, 1905-1908, (2008).

Lee Y. R., Raghu A. V., Jeong H. M. and Kim B. K., Macromolecular Chemistry and Physics, 210, 12471254, (2009).

Mr. Saptarshi Maiti is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India.

His research areas of interest are Graphene, Dendritic structures, Nanotechnology, Textile dyeing and Green processing of Textiles.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Pintu Pandit is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Graphene, Plasma Technology, Nanotechnology, Natural dyeing and Multifunctional finishing of Textile materials.

Ms. Geetal Mahajan is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India.

Her research areas of interest are Fermentation Technology in Textiles, Textile colouration, Speciality finishes, Natural dyes, Green processing of Textiles using Natural products.

Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Textile colouration, Green processing of Textiles, Medical Textiles, Graphene, Enzyme manufacturing and application, Natural dyes for Textiles and Cosmetics, Novel Textile Processing Techniques and Textile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manufacturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 4 patents and published around 150 papers in journals of National and International repute.

Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli is a senior most Professor and former Head of the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology as well as former Dean at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. He is a Fellow of CSIR-CNRS (France), Maharashtra Academy of Science, Honorary F.T.A and Shiksha Ratna. His research areas of interest are Natural dyes, Plasma Technology, Nanotechnology, Graphene, Super absorbents and Speciality finishes. He has guided 120 Master's and Doctoral students with over 370 publications/conference presentations and edited 25 books. He is an Independent Director of Siyaram Silk Mills, Chairman of Editorial Board of JTA and a Managing Trustee of Baha'i Lotus Temple, Delhi.

34

May - June 2018

UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India) TAI - Delhi Unit Bridge - TAI Delhi Unit Initiated for Series of Lectures The Textile Association (India) - Delhi Unit established in 1965 is now having more than 1900 strong membership is performing excellent with various activities with Seminars and Conferences. In continuation with their activities Unit has taken further initiative in orgnising 'BRIDGE', series of lectures at different Textile Institutes. Recently Unit conducted the following lectures.

highly qualified and experienced textile professionals and many of them are Alumni of TIT&S, Bhiwani have a great networking link with TAI Delhi 4. Special Guard of Honor by GPH Authorities for TAI Delhi team 5. Presentation of Memento by TAI Delhi team to Principal, GPH 6. Principal, GPH's special thanks to TAI Delhi and presentation of Memento Attendees at Lectures: Students of Final and Prefinal semesters of Textile & Fashion Courses

07-03-2018 - Govt. Polytechnic, Hisar Topics:

Weaving - by Mr. Ritesh Gupta Marketing - by Mr. Ritesh Gupta Nano Technology - by Mr. Ashish Gupta

Institute's Shri M. L.Godara, Principal Representatives: Shri Sunil Bhutani, Training & Placement Cell Shri Sunny Pannu, Training & Placement Cell Shri Rajesh Kadian, Faculty Shri Ajay Jindal, Faculty

May - June 2018

1. MOU Signed between GPH and TAI - Delhi - For working towards Student's Education, Industrial Visits, Training & Placement - Providing Technical Support to GPH's Faculty - Continuing Organizing Guest Lectures on Latest Technological Advancement in Textile & Fashion - Jointly Organizing Seminars, Symposiums, Exhibitions & Workshops - To promote TAI Delhi's Membership Enrolment Drive 2. Appreciation of Guest Lectures

by Faculty & Students 3. Most of GPH Faculties are

21.03.2018 - NITRA Technical Campus Topics:

1. Forthcoming Situation of Textiles - by Mr. Kamal Misra 2. About TAI-Delhi - by Mr. Nitin Miglani 3. Briefing - by Mr. D. K. Singh

Institute's 1. Dr. Arindam Basu, Director Representatives: General 2. Mr. M. S. Parmar, Jt. Director 3. Dr. Abhijit Pal, Officiating Director 4. Mr. M. K.Datta, Placement Officer 5. Mr. Satish Aggarwal, HOD Textile Technology 35

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Key Points:

UNIT ACTIVITY Key Points

Attendees at Lectures

1. Session for a impressive gathering of about 200 students 2. Highly interactive discussion 3. Discussion among TAI Delhi and NITRA representatives for working towards all possible assistance for Faculty & Students 4. Promotion and Benefits of TAI Delhi Membership Enrolment Drive.

5. Interaction of TAI Delhi team with Dr. Arindam Basu on Current Textile Scenario in Industry and Academics.

Students of Textile Technology B. Tech. Courses

18-04-2018 - Amity School of Fashion Design and Technology, Manesar Topics:

How to build a Brand and its process - by Mr. Rajiv Pande Costing of Product - by Mr. Rajiv Pande

Institute's Ms. Suniti Sood, Coordinator, Representatives: ASFDT, Manesar Mr. Sukhvir Singh, Assistant Professor, ASFDT, Manesar Attendees at Lectures :

Students of Textile and Fashion Designing Courses

25.04.2018 - The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani, Haryana

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Topics:

Narrow Width Weaving, Printing & Dyeing and Garment Trims & Accessories - by Mr. Ritesh Gupta Texturising - by Mr. D K Singh Marketing - by Mr. Ashish Gupta

Institute's Dr. G. K.Tyagi, Director, TIT&S Representatives: Dr. K. N. Chatterjee, HOD - Fashion & Apparel Engineering, TIT&S Key Points: 1. Interaction of TAI Delhi team with Dr. G. K.Tyagi& Dr. K. N. Chatterjee for working towards well-being of TIT&S. 2. Briefing to students by Mr. Ritesh Gupta about TAI Delhi's mission of helping Students for their Training and Placement, 36

May - June 2018

UNIT ACTIVITY Scholarship Needs, etc.

3. Great Appreciation of Guest Lectures by Faculty & Students 4. Presentation of Memento by TAI Delhi team to Dr. G. K. Tyagi & Dr. K. N. Chatterjee 5. Special thanks by Dr. G. K.Tyagi & Dr. K. N. Chatterjee to TAI Delhi Attendees at Lectures:

Delhi's Platforms like Seminars, Fashion Shows, etc.

2. Promotion of Education for Girls through all possible technical as well as Financial Supports by Merit cum Means Scholarships to needy students.

3. Great Appreciation of Guest Lectures by Faculty & Students 4. Visit of TAI Delhi team at Art Gallery and show off of other artistic work of SDPW Students 5. Discussion on Special Social Work done by SDPW's Founder Director, Ms. Ashima Chaudhuri who was a renowned name in Social and Charity works. She expired on 14th August, 2017. Her contribution towards building SDPW is remarkable 6. Presentation of Memento by TAI Delhi team to Director, SDPW 7. Director, SDPW's special thanks to TAI Delhi and presentation of Memento

Students of Textile Technology, Textile Chemistry, Fashion & Apparel Engineering and MBA

Attendees at Lectures:

Students of Textile, Apparel, Garment Fabrication & Fashion Courses

28.03.2018 - South Delhi Polytechnic for Women Topics:

1. Narrow Width Weaving & Narrow Width Printing - by Mr. Ritesh Gupta 2. Texturising - by Mr. D. K. Singh

1. Dr. Reyhan Chaudhuri, Director, Representatives: SDPW 2. Ms. Dolly Vijay Mohan, HOD Textile & Apparel Designing, SDPW 3. Ms. Harpreet Arora, HOD Jewelry Designing, SDPW Key Points:

May - June 2018

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Institute's

1. Interaction of TAI Delhi team with Director, SDPW for promoting SDPW Students' talent at TAI 37

UNIT ACTIVITY

TAI - Ahmedabad Unit TAI Ahmedabad Unit inaugurated Dinesh Hall in new look

Smt. Rupande Prafull Shah along with other dignitaries cutting the inaugural Ribbon of Dinesh Hall Dinesh Kantilal Memorial Hall (Dinesh Hall)

The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit established in the year 1948 and now it is the largest and richest Unit among 26 Units in the country, having more than 4250 strong membership. Mr. T.L. Patel, President, Mr. Ashokkumar D. Patel, Hon. Secretary and other all other Office Bearers and the Managing Committee members got the inspiration and guidance from Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel,who has taken very important part for selling third part of land of TAI.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

And Late Shri B. A. Shah, Late Shri B. R. Shah Late Shri I. M. Bhandari and Late Shri V. A. Trivedi who later lead to rebuild Dinesh Hall.

The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit inaugurated the "Dinesh Kantilal Memorial Hall" (Dinesh Hall on Tuesday, 22nd May, 2018.Smt. Rupande Prafull Shah, Sister of Late Shri Dinesh Kantilal,graced and inaugurated with her worthy hands. Chief Guest was Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel, MLA, Amraiwadi, Ahmedabad, Govt. of Gujarat. Shri Bhupendrabhai R. Patel, MLA, Ghatlodia, Ahmedabad, Govt. of Gujarat; Dr. Darlie O. Koshy, Director General & CEO, Apparel Training & Design Centre (ATDC), Gurgaon, Haryana were the Guest of Honors for this inaugural function.

Smt. Rupande Prafull Shah, Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel along with other dignitaries lightening the Lamp

The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit is known for its various educational, technical, cultural activities covering for the benefit of their members since last more than 70 years. They have maintained and remained progressive and earned the reputation amongst their members and also in the Ahmedabad Textile Industry as a whole. Unit has excellent Liaison & Co-ordination with various Management, Academic & Research Institutes, Trade Associations and State Government.

Solutions That Can Enhance Your Brand Add life to your business ideas with our Brand Building Solutions 38

May - June 2018

UNIT ACTIVITY

Dignitaries on the dais releasing the Souvenir

View of the Audience

Group photo with Guests and Office Bearers

The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unit has various numerous activities in their different areas and the excellent administration achieved fortunate to receive the BEST TAI UNIT AWARD from TAI Central during their Annual Conferences continuously for nine years. Unit got additional feather in their cap for making 3 times historic hatrick for winning Best Unit Awards. TAI Ahmedabad Unit have a numbers of recipients of Honorary Members, Hon. F.T.A., Service Gold Medals, Service Mementos and ATA & GMTA Exam scholars.

After 65 years of old Non AC Dinesh Hall which was became less operative and having major damages in hall due to cracks etc., and looking to the popularity and demand for various events in Dinesh Hall, it was decided to rebuild the entire Dinesh hall in an attractive and useful to all Textile Industry and other cultural activities.

After passing many difficulties in last 4 years, a newly constructed Dinesh Hall is five storied building having two floors for underground parking. Ground Floor for Auditorium equipped with 700 seating capacity by keeping sufficient space in between two rows. First & Second floors are for TAI Administrative Office and other meeting rooms and also small & big rooms for corporate meeting, training program and seminar etc.

Newly constructed building is in proposal of having library, testing lab, workshops etc. for the benefits of textile industry and their members.

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office feeling proud of such TAI Ahmedabad Unit which is much active in activities and membership drive. It is not to be mentioned but it is richest Unit with their strong teamwork, Administration and mutual understanding with each other's.TAI feels that it shall be a benchmark for other TAI Units to put their efforts to make the unit stronger.

Raise your profile in global technical textiles May - June 2018

39

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Shri HasmukhbhaiS. Patel delivering his address

UNIT ACTIVITY

The Textile Association (India) enters the 80th year The Textile Association (India) established on 09th April, 1939. Now 80 years old especially the leading and largest National textile professional body of India, fighting for India's largest single growth of textile industry.10 visionary technocrat ' Friday Club', carrying 126 technicians and managers together on a single Sunday 9 April, 1939 to set up forum for free exchange of information on technical Cooperation in the spirit of other & fellowship.

Association was started with the bright vision as the largest and most notable known for technocrats and professional textiles and clothing in the world and promote scientific knowledge and technology and service excellence with global commitments. Also to be the leading recognized body for textile distance educational system in India and world over.

M. K. L. Vidur and Mr. J. B. Soma with Mr. Soekarwo Kartodihardjo, Governor of East Java Province Indonesia

View of the Audience

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

On this 09th April, 2018, Association entered in its 80 years services to the textile industry. As a remembrance TAI Central Office Bearers celebrated its 79th Anniversary in a simple way and wished for 80thyear to execute various activities and efforts to further improve the image of TAI. Mr. T. K. Sengupta, President; Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Vice Chairman; Mr. K. L. Vidur, Hon. Gen. Secretary; Mr. Virendra Jariwala, Hon. Treasurer and Mr. J. B. Soma, Publisher - JTA were present. Mr. Vithal Phondke and Mr. Manaji Ghag were also present.

Looking to the performance of TAI's various activities and Conferences Nationally & Globally, TAI is being globally recognized by various countries like Thailand, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, China, Uzbekistan, U.S. etc. and are being invited for exchanging textile knowledge, technology, educational programs, project establishment proposals, investment opportunities etc. with them to build up repo in respective countries.

40

Official Invitation from office of the Consulate General of the Republic of Indonesia was received to The Textile Association (India) - Central Office for interactive meeting with their Honorable Mr. Soekarwo Kartodihardjo, Governor of East Java Province Indonesia, Mr. Lili Soleh Wartadipradja, Head of East Java, Investment Coordinating Board, Mr. Ade Sukendar, Consul General of Consulate General of The Republic of Indonesia in India and Mr. Jamhadi Rakim, Chairman of Surabaya Chamber of Commerce & Industry (KADIN) on 14th April 2018 in Hotel Trident, Mumbai.

Mr. K. L. Vidur, Hon. Gen. Secretary and Mr. J. B. Soma, Publisher, JTA attended the meet. Mr. K. L. Vidur gave the PP Presentation copy of TAI both in English as well as Indonetian language to the Governor.

It was a pleasure to meet all Hon'ble Dignitaries and other delegation members & Invitees. We had a good deliberation and handed over our Power Point Presentation translated in their Indonesian and as well as May - June 2018

UNIT ACTIVITY English language and also copy of our Journal (JTA), which was very much appreciated by them and cordially invited to visit Indonesia.

He was also invited as Keynote Speaker by Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industries (GCCI), Ahmedabad for "Farm to Fashion - Indian Textile Global Summit" on 4th & 5th May, 2018.

◆

◆

◆

◆

◆

◆

◆ ◆ ◆

GENTEX 2018 - Global Business Connect during 28th to 31st August, 2018 at Colombo, Sri Lanka.

SOURCE INDIA 2018 - Reverse Buyers Sellers Meet, organized by The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion council (SRTEPC), scheduled from 21- 23 Sept 2018 in Surat, Gujarat.

TEMTECH 218 - Organized by MIRROR Publications during 22nd to 24th September, 2018 at Bhilwara, Rajasthan.

China Homelife India 2018 - during 17th to 19th December, 2018 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai.

INTEX South ASIA 2018 - organized by Worldtex India during 14th to 16th November, 2018 at Sri Lanka.

SDC EC - 13th International Conference organized by SDC on 06th June, 2018, Hotel Sahara Star, Mumbai.

Lenzing - Sustainability Dialogue with its New VEOCEL™ Brand on 02-06-18 at Hotel Trident.

VDMA - German Technology Meet on 15-16th May, 2018 at NSE, Mumbai Fibres & Yarns Exhibition - During 5th & 7th April, 2018 at WTC, Mumbai

Mr. T.K. Sengupta, President was invited as Keynote speaker and Moderator in 'Apparel Connect 2018' on "Focus on Streamline Logistics to Support T&A industry" on 17th May, 2018 at New Delhi.

The Textile Association (India) - Central Office has made a roadmap to work on the areas of New Corporate & Life time Membership drive, revenue generating schemes, skill development program & workshop, and world class textiles technological applications for both apparel as well as technical textiles.

Planned programs to make the JTA an industry friendly and guide to reach the leading role in the world market. TAI also planned several National and International Seminars/Conferences on Farm to Fashion and various other fields of applications.

Receive direct enquiries from potential customers May - June 2018

41

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

There were E-mails and calls to TAI for participation and promotion of various events as Supporting Association and as Media Partner. TAI has agreed to be Supporting Association and Journal of the Textile Association as their Media Partner with no commercial involvement to the following events. This shall go a long way to strengthen the relations between the both the Associations and organizations.Mr. J. B. Soma, Publisher (JTA) attended their Press /Media Meet and programs.

NEWS

Birla Cellulose partners with Ankur Textiles, women's wear division of Arvind Limited Birla Cellulose now partners with Ankur Textiles, women's wear division of Arvind Limited with a range of Multi Fiber Fabrics for Women'swear.

fibre fabrics as a fashionable alternative to cotton. Our expertise in textile fabrics, combined with the use of technology, has enabled us to develop fabrics that offer both styles with comfort for consumers. Our in-house design team will continue to introduce more such trendy collections in future to delight our customers."

Birla Cellulose now partners with Ankur Textiles

Mr. Manohar Samuel, President - Marketing

Speaking on the collaboration, Mr. Manohar Samuel, President - Marketing, Birla Cellulose, expressed, "Collaborating with likeminded brands is part of our business strategy and we are happy to partner with Ankur Textiles. This association allows us to reach millions of women through their wide range of distribution with an assurance of high quality fabrics which are nature based and fluid.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. Brijesh Bhati, CEO, Ankur Textiles delivering views

Birla Cellulose, has collaborated with Ankur Textile, lifestyle division of Arvind limited to launch a wide range of LIVA Fabrics with 100% modal, 100% viscose & viscose blends as an alternate to traditional fabric for new age Indian women who deserves high position as well as comfort in her apparel needs.

LIVA range of fabrics are introduced under Ankur Textile fabric brands- Zoya, Blossom & Glam & Glory.

This range has been carefully crafted to meet the requirement of western & ethnic womenswear.

Speaking at the launch, Mr. Brijesh Bhati, CEO, Ankur Textiles, (A Division of Arvind Limited) said, "The launch of this collection marks our expansion into multi42

This is just the beginning; we are looking forward to a long term collaboration with Ankur Textile."

These fabrics will be available across retail points throughout the country in a range of colors, textures and prints. This will enable not just the retail consumers but boutique owners, designers, small retailers to access LIVA's fluid fabric to create their own fluid designers.

About Arvind Arvind is a $1.7 billion conglomerate with interests in textiles, branded apparel and accessories, engineering and real estate and is one of the leading textile to retail and brands conglomerate in India. Arvind Limited, manufactures and sells about 300 million meters of fabrics and over 30 million pieces of ready to wear May - June 2018

NEWS apparel. Its denim, woven and knit products are known for being innovative and sustainable, which are sourced by some of the most iconic apparel brands around the world.

About Birla Cellulose Birla Cellulose represents the Pulp and Fiber business of the Aditya Birla Group, is India's pioneer in Viscose Staple Fibre (VSF). Birla Cellulose fibers are of 100% natural origin, highly absorbent, have an especially good feel, and are completely biodegradable.

As an extremely versatile and easily bendable fibre, VSF is widely used in apparels, home textiles, dress

material, knitted wear and non-woven applications. Birla Celluose commands a major world market share in the Manmade Cellulose fiber domain.

About LIVA Liva is a new age fabric from the Aditya Birla Group.

Unlike other fabrics, that are boxy or synthetic, Liva is a soft, fluid fabric which falls and drapes well. A promise that is delivered through an accredited value chain.

The new-age naturally sourced fibre made into fabric in pure or blended form, transforms not just the garment but also the person wearing it. It is comfortable, soft, natural, and eco-friendly.

Bombay Dyeing launches elegant THEME designs and customized bedsheets

Bombay Dyeing has launched their THEME designs & Customized verities beautiful & attracMr. Aloke Banerjee, CEO, tive bedsheets on 03rd Bombay Dyeing Retail July, 2018 at National Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai during the HGH Exhibition.

Mr. Aloke announced that Bombay Dyeing is always Number one Brand Player in its textile retail business and looking thought to be number one in Home Textiles.

Ethnicity is a magnificent use of luxurious colours, lanterns, ornamental jewels for the liberty of flatbed printing. The rhythmic strike a stroke adores the textures created with the movement of a brush with a modern look. Bring home royalty with reverie smart geometric, classic European and sophisticated textures and patterns. He said that Bombay Dyeing launches the most awaited concept of "Customized Bed Sheets", anticiMay - June 2018

pating the GeNext digital era.

Ethnicity is a magnificent use of luxurious colours, lanterns, ornamental jewels for the liberty of flatbed printing. The rhythmic strike a stroke adores the textures created with the movement of a brush with a modern look. Bring home royalty with reverie smart geometric, classic European and sophisticated textures and patterns. He said that Bombay Dyeing launches the most awaited concept of "Customized Bed Sheets", anticipating the GeNext digital era.This new concept will transform the entire outlook of the Home Decor industry. Customers no longer will have to adjust to the available colours and designs. They will now have access to a larger array of colours that perfectly match their curtains and walls.

For Customized bedsheets, all have to "click" what they like and upload it on the Bombay Dyeing website http:// bombaydyeing.com/ custonize-bedsheet/.

The selected 'know your own bedsheets' will be delivered to the customer at their doorstep within 30 days for just Rs. 1999/- only.

Final image for customized Bedsheet

Mr. Aloke Banerjee, 43

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Wadia Group Company's 139 years old flagship Bombay Dyeing and Manufacturing Company is reinventing its business by moving out of textile manufacturing and now focusing on retailing of home decor products bed, bath and coordinates.

NEWS CEO, Bombay Dyeing said, "Customer is the King.

Bombay Dyeing has exercised a lot through their research work regarding customer's choices & now happy to supply to their customers looking for". He further said that it is their first time to participate in such a big exhibition to just meet their customers.

rhythm,the movement, the splash, all depicted by just a stroke.

Reverie: Brings home royalty with their smart geometric, classic European and sophisticated texture and pattern. Bombay offers Reverie wide basket of products.

They have nearly 18 new unique product collections including Towels deigned and planning to open about 100 new franchises. Bombay Dyeing is also developing in Ready Made Garments like Superior "VZERI" Shirts by August 2018. Further he is confident for 35 to 40% business growth.

HGH provided a focused marketing platform for retailers, distributors and institutional buyers across India and hence Bombay Dyeing decided to announce its marketing plans and launch this THEME in this exhibition.

More about the THEME: Ethnicity: It is amagnificent take on designs for the liberty of flatbed printing. Luxurious colours, lanterns, mandalas, architectural influences from all around the word. Ornamental jewels being highlighted.

Note: You click a photo of your choice & send it to BOMBAY DYEING, do the payment & BOMBAY DYEING will deliver the bedsheet with that photograph printed at your doorstep, within 30 days.

Strike a Stroke: Bombay Dyeing Designers are so very art driven in all aspects of life. One such contribution on the work of art, they presents in market as 'Strike a Stroke'. Bombay Dyeing adore the texture that a pressure of hand can create with a brush. The

For more information, please contact: Ms Jane D'cruz M.: +91-9833526456 E-mail: dcruzjane@gmail.com

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Colorant initiates JV with a leading Chinese dyes company Lead-In: Colorant is in advanced talks with a Chinese producer of textile dyes, globally one of the largest producers of reactive dyes to set up a joint venture manufacturing plant in India to produce dyestuffs.

countedamongst the hundreds of other Indian dyes producers who offer unbranded products and in the process decided to take other multinational and established Indian players head-on in the organised segment.

Colorant Limited, a manufacturer of reactive textile dyes was set up in 1999 by first generation entrepreneur Mr. Subhash Bhargava, who at that time was working as Marketing (Head) at a major Ahmedabad based producer of dyes and chemicals.According to Mr. Bhargava, there was turmoil in the dyes industry in that period of time and he could sense an opportunity, so he resigned from his job and began by trading in dyes for the first few months to get a feel, before he set up Colorant by first producing dyes at a leased unit.

Colorant produces reactive dyes primarily meant for the cellulose and cotton textile sector and offers the complete range of dyes meeting every need of the industry. Colorant is the first Indian manufacturer and is still the only one producing flourine based reactive dyes in India, considered a niche segment and is mainly meant for deriving high light fastness properties in fabrics.

Since he came from a background in marketing, Mr. Bhargava had firmly decided that he would brand his products under the name of 'Colron' and also offer quality products from day-one and not be 44

Colorant operates out of four units in Ahmedabad, one leased, while the other three are owned by Colorant and all put together employs more than 100 employees and supplies its products to around 600 customers. It has an office in Tirupur and sales officials stationed in Vapi, Mumbai, Ludhiana, Delhi, Kolkata, etc.

May - June 2018

NEWS

The dyes producer exports 20 percent of its production to around 12 regions and countries like Brazil, the Central American region, South Africa, Mauritius, Nigeria, Egypt, Iran, Turkey, Pakistan and Bangladesh and also in small quantities to China, a country which is considered a powerhouse in production of dyes.

Mr. Bhargava however laments the fact that Colorant is in to production of only dyes and not dyes intermediates, which he considers a weakness, which became apparent when the industry went through a period of high volatility in the last two years, with prices of intermediates soaring five-fold in a period of few months and also returning to its original prices again in a few months.

Colorant will now overcome that weakness and is in advanced talks with a Chinese producer of textile dyes, which is globally the third largest producer of reactive dyes. The Chinese Company which also provided flourine based reactive dyes technology to Colorant will now also supply intermediates.Alongside, both the companies will also set up a joint venture manufacturing plant in India to produce dyestuffs. Alongside, Colorant will also be supplying dyes to the global network of the Chinese Company.

The main reason for initiating the JV is that he is pessimistic about the viability of their existing plants, which are now, located within Ahmedabad city limits.

He is apprehensive that the government could ask them to shift operations to another location in the near future. Mr. Bhargava shares proudly that major global apparel brands like Levis, M&S, Decathlon, etc have approved Colorant as their vendors. Colorant shortly also expects to be on the list of approved suppliers to fast fashion brand Zara, which conducted a due diligence of their facilities recently.

According to Mr. Bhargava, their production processes are meant to be environmentally friendly as they have installed the latest technology to control environmental pollution and their discharges meet all pollution control norms set by the government. However, at the unit where they produce Golden Yellow's, they are able to May - June 2018

reuse all the water that is used during the production process and is a zero-discharge unit for all practical purposes.

Since the Colorant plants were set up after the 2000's, their outlet norms are 250 COD, while for other old units managed by other companies, it is 1,500 COD. So, although they are at a disadvantage vis-a-vis plants set up earlier, they are meeting the government mandated norms for environmental discharge. He also proudly states that while the outlet discharge norms of the common effluent plant located in their industrial zone is 600 COD; their discharge is not beyond 250 COD. On expectations from the government, he states that currently they are dealing with 30-35 government agencies and he expects the government to reduce these numbers. He also wants the central government to implement GST at the earliest, as he believes it will be a game changer, since it is transparent. He also wants environmental policies to be more transparent and also rules and regulations to be simplified, but not necessarily relaxed.

He is also optimistic about the prospects of the Indian textile industry in the next few years. Mr. Bhargava cites the saturation of the industry in China, as due to manpower constraints and also higher wages, they will not be able to expand capacity and also forecasts that labour oriented industries in China will soon be reporting negative growth rates.

All these factors will push the business to other Asian countries like India, Bangladesh, Vietnam Cambodia, Pakistan and even African countries. He adds that India will be a natural beneficiary of this development due to its advantages of raw material and availability of labour still at lower costs.

On the textile dyes industry too, he shares optimism as he believes that the Chinese government is no more interested in promoting the sector as the country is already reporting high levels of pollution and the government would not like the same to increase, but come down from the levels.

In the case of textile dyes also, he opines that India will be a natural and also will be the only beneficiary, as this industry will not move to other countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan or Vietnam as India already has a solid base, since the country is the largest global 45

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

It has an installed production capacity of 500 tons per month and has divided production of various dyes among its units, which means each unit produces a particular dye. "This helps avoid down times as machines have to be cleaned when switching production to another quality of dyes," Mr. Bhargava explains.

NEWS

Sharing details of the export markets, he states that competition comes from four countries and regions; namely South Korea, China, India and Europe. According to him, although Korean companies are considered a reliable supplier, they have not been growing since the last 4-5 years, while China has reached its peak and will now come down, while influence of European companies is drastically coming down.

is not willing to join SME's.

They are also vendors to state-owned National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC); however the supply to this agency is taken up more as a corporate social responsibility. According to Mr. Bhargava, they receive orders for as less as 1 kg for different colour dyes from NHDC. This is because NHDC places orders on behalf of a small handloom weaver, who needs just 2-3 kg of all colours put together.

But in case of India, he remarks that India textile dyes producers have started making inroads in the export markets and sees this growing in the near future, due to them being able to offer products meeting the highest quality parameters or at par with those offered by European companies. He also expects influence of producers from other countries and regions to go down in the near future.

As part of CSR, experts from Colorant including Mr Bhargava, also deliver lectures and participate in training programs free of cost at various colleges and textile educational institutions. Colorant also provides dyes and literature to many of these educational institutions, without charging anything. Colorant also supports education of children of its employees who study in the 5th, 10th and the 12th standards.

Colorant also operates a R&D facility which does synthesis as well as application research. It modifies existing processes in order to cut costs at Colorant, by trying to improve yields by reducing by-products through restricting impurities in the product. This also cuts effluents, thereby generating cost savings. The R&D facility also improves solubility of dyes for the end user. Mr. Bhargava though would like to do R&D in new products, but laments the fact that available talent

Colorant is a recipient of several export awards and has won eight awards continuously since the last eight years in the SME category from the Gujarat Dyestuff Manufacturers Association (GDMA) and from Dyestuff Manufacturers Association (India) again continuously since the last four years. It has bagged two awards from Chemexcil, here too for exports by a SME.

producer of reactive dyes.

Inauguration of the new BRÜCKNER production facility in Tittmoning

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

On Saturday, 23 June 2018 the new production facility of BRÜCKNER, the world market leader in dry finishing machines for textiles and technical textiles, was officially opened in Tittmoning, Bavaria.

Representatives from politics, the church, banks and industry were present when Regina Brückner inaugurated the new, generously dimensioned production plant together with Dr. Peter Ramsauer, former Minister of Transport and approx. 800 other guests.

New BRUCKNER production site in Tittmoning, Bavaria 46

Honor of employees involved in the construction May - June 2018

NEWS "Our old factory simply became too small. Increased incoming orders and ever-increasing demands on machine sizes and delivery dates were the reason for planning a new plant in 2014. We were not able to start construction until November 2016, as many hurdles in the approval process and with regard to nature conservation had to be overcome in advance. With the new plant with 25,000 m² of production space and a spacious office wing, we will continue to meet the high expectations of our customers in the future. The possibility of producing components with a height of up to 12 m and a working width of up to 8.80 m offers us great potential for the future. Our employees are also pleased about the new, more spacious workplaces, more effective logistics and more powerful lifting gear. With a large number of new, highly automated processing machines, we are in a position to manufacture and supply even larger machines as before, and we will also be able to increase our delivery volume and significantly shorten delivery times," emphasized Regina Brückner in her address.

In her speech, she explained the many advantages of the new plant and presented details of the highly automated and efficiently organized production: the new modern CNC machine tools, the additional welding robots and the new highlight of the plant: the highly automated powder coating and wet coating system.

She emphasized that the installation and commissioning times can be further reduced thanks to the significantly improved lifting, transport and assembly options. The now ceremonially opened new plant in Tittmoning is another forward-looking step of BRÜCKNER to reposition itself in the world market for the finishing of textiles and technical textiles as a system supplier with great future potential.

The former German Minister Dr. Peter Ramsauer emphasized in his speech the importance of the manufacturing industry in Germany and expressed his joy that BRÜCKNER, the leading manufacturer of textile machines, is so clearly committed to the location Germany and does not transfer jobs abroad. He congratulated BRÜCKNER on the successful move to the new plant and emphasized the outstanding importance of such tradition-conscious family companies as BRÜCKNER for the German industry and the location Bavaria in particular. He once again emphasized the considerable investment of 40 million at BRÜCKNER's long-term production site in Tittmoning and expressed his pleasure that great importance was attached to a sustainable and environmentally friendly implementation already during the planning phase.

The celebrations were preceded by a BRÜCKNER agency conference in which more than 90 Brückner representatives worldwide were informed and trained about new technical developments. Representatives from industry, trade, banks and politics as well as invited planners, architects, neighbours and staff members focused on the new plant for a total of four days.

Executing companies and local residents as well as many of the numerous employees present will be pleased when "calm has returned" and BRÜCKNER can concentrate again on the essential: the production of textile machines of the highest quality "made in Germany".

Contact: Verena Ruckh, Head of Advertising & Marketing Department

◆

◆

◆

VEOCEL™ is Lenzing's new specialty brand for the nonwoven industry, which providesfibers that arecertified clean and safe, biodegradable, from botanic origin, and produced in an environmentally responsible production process VEOCEL™ fibers are used in various daily care applications under VEOCEL™ Beauty, VEOCEL™ Body, VEOCEL™ Intimate and VEOCEL™ Surface New VEOCEL™ Lyocell Fiber with "Quat" Release technology will be added to VEOCEL™

May - June 2018

Surface brand to drive sustainability dialogue in the surface cleaning segment The Lenzing Group (Lenzing adapt to the final date)introduces VEOCEL™, the company's new nonwoven specialty brand. Positioned as a premium brand of nonwoven fibers for daily care rituals, VEOCEL™ provides the nonwoven industry with fibers that are certified clean and safe, biodegradable, from botanic origin and produced in an environmentally responsible production process. Offerings under the VEOCEL™ 47

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Lenzing Leads Sustainability Dialogue with its New VEOCEL™ Brand

NEWS brand cover a broad range of applications for everyday use, from baby care, beauty and body care to intimate care and surface cleaning. Such applications are categorized under branded offers VEOCEL™ Beauty, VEOCEL™ Body, VEOCEL™ Intimate and VEOCEL™ Surface.

The introduction ofVEOCEL™is a key milestone of Lenzing's new brand strategy to transform from a business-to-business (B2B) fiber producer to a business-to-business-to-consumer (B2B2C) brand. Coupled with ongoing co-branding, joint marketing and brand education initiatives conducted with customers and brands globally, VEOCEL™ will enable Lenzing to shift its focus beyond fiber types to product application and build a relatable and emotional connection with consumers.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

"Guided by our sCore TEN strategy,the launch ofthe VEOCEL™ brand will accelerate our migration into a specialty fiber business with a strong focus on innovation, quality and sustainability. Through ongoing proactive communication, the VEOCEL™ brand will also promote aholistic understanding about the benefits of botanic fibers in nonwoven productsacross the industry value chain and among consumers. This will not only help to maximize the marketing efforts of our customers and partners, but also drive dialogue about sustainability across the nonwoven industry. Through the VEOCEL™ brand, we hope to address the growing demand for transparency and sustainability across the value chain and provide consumers with greener product options," said Robert van de Kerkhof, Chief Commercial Officer of Lenzing Group.

technology, is a premium and specialty wood-based cellulose fiber that is used in hard surface cleaning and disinfectant wet wipes. VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Lenzing's Quat Release technology allow quaternary ammonium compounds, also known as "Quat", to be released from wet wipes onto the surface for effective cleaning and disinfecting in household and industrial environments.

While the nonwoven industry has acknowledged the benefits of Lenzing's cellulosic fibers, such as theirsustainable nature, botanic origin and ability to improve cleaning experience, the majority of single-use cleaning and disinfectant wet wipes mainly consists of synthetic fibers such as polyester and polypropylene.

This binding interaction substantially decreases the release of "Quat" and can negatively impact the efficacy of the disinfectant product. However, with Lenzing's "Quat" Release technology, the binding of "Quat" to the surface of VEOCEL™ Lyocell Fibers is significantly reduced, resulting in improved effectiveness of surface cleaning and the disinfection process.

Wet wipes containing VEOCEL™ Lyocell Fiber with "Quat" Release technologydemonstrate significantly improved release of "Quat" from the wet wipe to the surface, resulting in improved product stability and performance. In addition, VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers also promote good absorbency, homogenous distribution of liquid in wet wipes and good hand feel.

VEOCEL™ fiber portfolio includes VEOCEL™ Lyocell and VEOCEL™ Specialty Viscose fibers, which are derived from renewable or sustainable wood sources from certified and controlled forests and plantations.

The botanic origin of the fibers offers functional benefits such as improved moistureabsorbency and management, contribution to breathability, good hand feel, blending versatility, and all VEOCEL(TM) fibersare certified biodegradable in soil, landfill, compost and seawater. With a strong commitment to ensure fiber cleanliness, these fibers are manufactured using a stringently monitored production process in accordance with Lenzing's high quality, environmental and safety standards.

"Today's consumers, especially the millennial generation, are more mindful of their ecological footprint or the mark they leave on the natural environment and its resources.Since nonwoven products are mostly for single-use, we have seen increasing interest across the industry value chain in sustainable product composition and transparent production processes. With more consumers wanting to identify sustainable products that are biodegradable and environmentally responsible with proven functionality, the need for brands to be more transparent in product ingredient labellingis greater than ever. We hope that through VEOCEL™ and the newly launched VEOCEL™ Lyocell Fiber with "Quat" Release technologyunder the VEOCEL™ Surface brand, we are able todrive the entire nonwoven market forwardandraise the bar for ingredient labeling and environmental standards across the industry," said Wolfgang Plasser, Vice President, Global Business Management Nonwoven of Lenzing Group.

The latest addition to the VEOCEL™ Surface brand - the VEOCEL™ Lyocell Fiber with "Quat" Release

Following the introduction of VEOCEL™, joint promotional programs with retail brand partners will be rolled

48

May - June 2018

NEWS

For more information, visit: www.veocel.com.

About VEOCEL™ VEOCEL™ is Lenzing Group's flagship specialty nonwoven brand. Derived from renewable raw material wood, VEOCEL™ provides natural care, every day, and is committed to driving industry standards around sustainability and natural comfort in the nonwoven sector. VEOCEL™ transfers the essence of nature into nonwoven products through the beneficial properties of VEOCEL™ fibers, including natural absorbency, liquid distribution, and contribution to breathability, biodegradability and versatility.

The VEOCEL™ product portfolio includes VEOCEL™ Lyocell and VEOCEL™ Specialty Viscose fibers that are tailored for sustainable lifestyles and helps to maintain environmental balance by being fully integrated into nature´s cycle. Thesefibers arecertified clean and safe, biodegradable, from botanic origin and manufactured in an environmentally responsible production process.The VEOCEL™ brand is categorized into four branded offers including VEOCEL™ Beauty, VEOCEL™ Body, VEOCEL™ Intimate and VEOCEL™ Surface and its fibers are used in baby care, beauty and body care, intimate care and surface cleaning products.

Fibers under the VEOCEL™ brand are derived from renewable wood sources from certified and controlled forests and plantations andare manufactured in environmentally responsible and closed loop production processes. The fibersare compostable and biodegradable, enabling them to break down safely into raw May - June 2018

materials and fully revert back into the environment.

About the Lenzing Group The Lenzing Group is an international company that produces high-quality fibers from the renewable raw material wood with environmentally friendly and innovative technologies. These fibers form the basis for a wide range of textile and nonwoven applications, and are also used in work and protective wear and in industrial applications.

Lenzing's quality and innovative strength set global standards for wood-based cellulose fibers. With 80 years of experience, the Lenzing Group is the only company in the world which produces significant volumes of all three wood-based cellulose fiber generations. Its products are marketed under the following brands: TENCEL™ for textile applications, VEOCEL™ for nonwoven and LENZING™ for special fiber applications in other areas and other products. Innovations like REFIBRA™ recycling technology, the identifiable LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers and TENCEL™ Luxe branded lyocell filament yarn make Lenzing a global innovation leader.

The Lenzing Group's success is based on consistent customer orientation combined with innovation, technology and quality leadership. Lenzing is committed to the principles of sustainable management with very high environmental standards and can underscore this commitment with numerous international sustainability certifications for its business processes as the most sustainable company in the sector. In addition to fibers, which form the core business, the Lenzing Group is also active in the fields of engineering and plant construction - mostly for its own locations, but also for external customers.

TENCELTM, VEOCELTM, LENZINGTM, REFIBRATM, ECOVEROTM, LENZING MODALTM, LENZING VISCOSETM, MICROMODALTM and PROMODALTM are trademarks of Lenzing AG.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

out to equip consumers with the knowledge they need to identify nonwoven products that combine advanced performance, comfort and sustainability. "With VEOCEL™, we are building a consumer-focused ingredient brand that proactively communicates with consumers through a B2Me approach, which is unique to the nonwoven industry. Given nonwoven products are in close contact with skin or other sensitive areas of the body, ongoing consumer outreach plays a critical role in building trust among consumers. Matched with a tagline 'purely for you', we wish to convey a VEOCEL™ brand promise that highlights our dedication to provide certified clean and safe products and pure care to consumers and the environment," said Harold Weghorst, director of Global Brand Management of Lenzing Group.

For more information please contact: Rita Ng Marketing Services Manager - Lenzing Phone: (852)3718 5675 Email: r.ng@lenzing.com

49

NEWS

LIVA Launches LAPF Studio in Tirupur Fluid Fashion enters the Knitwear Capital of India LIVA, a leading fashion ingredient brand from the Aditya Birla Group launched a state of the art LAPF Studio on Tuesday, 10-07-2018 at Tirupur. This is the third such Studio after NOIDA and New York. LAPF Studios act as a one-stop customer experience centre for innovation, technical, product and marketing solutions.

Tirupur Studio has a collection of more than 2000 fabric innovations of Viscose, Modal & Excel. Technical specifications, uniqueness of the fabric and marketing stories are available in wide variety of fabrics including Woven, Knitted, Flat Knitted etc. LIVA's seasonal collection specially designed by the in-house designers will be on display in the studio to align global buyers to the cluster.

The launch witnessed the presence of Mr. Dilip Gaur, Business Director, Pulp and Fibre Business Aditya Birla Group and Managing Director, Grasim Industries and Mr. Raja M Shanmugam, President Tirupur Exporters Association (TEA).

Mr. Dilip Gaur, said "I recall the meeting, we had with leaders of Tirupur Exporter's Association (TEA) last

year and the seed was sown for a much deeper collaboration between Liva and TEA. Today we are happy to launch LAPF Studio at Tirupur along with TEA, which I feel serve as a fountain of innovation for ManMade Cellulose fibre based knitted apparel".

Mr. Raja M Shanmugam, President, Tirupur Exporters Association said, "Our vision in TEA has been always to work towards excellence in buyer engagement, infrastructure and product innovation through collaboration. In this direction we see LAPF Studio as a platform for fuelling business growth for the Tirupur cluster. We look forward for innovations in fabric and Liva seasonal collection".

The collaboration between TEA and Birla Cellulose brings seamless alignment with global innovation and ensures preference for the cluster's products with global brands. One important aspect of differentiation is the sustainability credentials of both Tirupur Cluster and Birla Cellulose which would be communicated through a benefit story. Focusing on best in quality and cost is of paramount importance for greater operational efficiency, a must for the cluster to be competitive against global knitwear hubs.

SARA ELGI and A.T.E. Group join hands

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

nology solutions across the textile value chain, have joined hands to serve the Indian textile industry.

From 1 July 2018, A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited, a flagship company of the A.T.E. group, will be responsible for the sales and marketing of the following SARA ELGI products in the Indian market: ◆ Overhead traveling cleaners ◆ Yarn conditioning systems ◆ Bobbin transport systems

Mr.G. V. Aras Director of A.T.E. along with Managing Director of SARA ELGI Mr. Ravi Chandran

The SARA ELGI group from Coimbatore, a renowned manufacturer of value added systems for textile industry, and the A.T.E. group, a pioneer in providing tech50

SARA ELGI, with more than 50 years of experience, has always been in the forefront with advanced technology and design & application expertise. Its products viz. overhead traveling cleaners for spinning machines, yarn conditioning systems and bobbin transportation systems have been customised to customer needs.

Over the years, many leading customers are enjoying the benefits of these solutions.

May - June 2018

NEWS A.T.E. Enterprises, with its strong sales network of 11 offices across India and with a well-trained and knowledgeable sales force is expected to boost the promotion of SARA ELGI products in India. The synergy

between A.T.E. and SARA ELGI will surely add value for the Indian customers in terms of expert advice, technology solutions, customised product offerings and excellent pre and post-sales support.

Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya organized Garment Training The concluding ceremony was organized 30th June 2018 in the presence of Mrs. Rupali Jain, Entrepreneur, Param Clothing Industry, Indore & Dr. Upindar Dhar, Hon. Vice Chancellor, SVVV and faculties & staff of Textile Institute. The participation certificates were given to all participated.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

One month Garment Training for Rural Community Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya has organized "One month free garment training for rural community" in month of June 2018 to promote the self independency in their life. In this year 25 girls from Baroli, Alvasa & Bhaurasla were participated.

www.textileassociationindia.org Book an advertising Banner Contact: jb.soma@gmail.com +91 9819801922 May - June 2018

51

NEWS

Source India 2018 - India's Premier Reverse Buyer Seller Meet

Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India & The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) announced Source India 2018 - the 2nd edition of India's largest Sourcing Show for Textiles To continue the impressive growth story of exports of Man Made Fibre and blended textiles from India, the Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council and the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, today announced the 2nd Edition of India's Largest Global Buyer Seller Meet, Source India 2018 in Surat.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Source India 2018 will be held in Surat from 21st to 23rd September, 2018. It will be the largest sourcing show for international buyers who are looking to source synthetic and blended textiles from India. India currently ranks among the top 3 suppliers of these textiles worldwide. SRTEPC will assemble an array of more than 200 International Importers from more than 40 countries to transact business with more than 200 exporters in this sector.

Source India 2018 is a focused B2B show covering the entire value chain in Man-made Fibre Textile products and its blends. Fabrics (that include Suiting, Shirting, Women's Wear), Yarn, Fibre, Made-ups, Home Textiles and Technical Textiles will be showcased by the leading exporters during the event. The Global Reverse Buyer Seller Meet will provide a boost to the Government's 'Make in India' campaign in India's second largest employment generating industry.

The Second edition of India's largest Sourcing Show for Man-made Fibre Textile products will be spread over 10,000 sq m of air-conditioned space. More than 200 Foreign Buyers are expected from 40 countries in addition to more than 5000 walk in Trade Visitors in52

cluding Domestic Buyers, Representatives of Indian and International Buying Houses, Procurement Managers from Large Retail Brands, Sourcing Agents, CEO's, Industry Heads and Business Leaders. Council will be creating a Business Lounge for one to one meetings with the International Buyers. Informal networking dinners will be organized for the Exhibitors to develop relations with the invited International Buyers.

The Council will be setting up a Theme Pavilion that will showcase fashion trends for the next Spring-Summer and Autumn-Winter period.

Road Shows are being conducted by the Council at the leading trade associations in Egypt, Morocco, Turkey, Moldova, Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Colombia and UAE. Presentations will be made to the leading textile importers in these counties. Invitations will be sent to genuine buyers, duly verified through an elaborate selection process for their quality and interest to do business with Indian Exporters. Also, invitations will be sent to overseas buyers based on import data of these countries.

Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC said "It is a matter of pride that India is the 2nd largest manufacturer and 6th largest exporter of Man-made Fibre Textiles in the world. Speaking from Surat the Chairman said that "I take this opportunity to thank Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Honorable Union Minister of Textiles and her entire team for their relentless support and initiatives to benefit the Indian Textile Industry and all the stakeholders. The city of Surat is the biggest hub of MMFT in the country, contributing 40% of the production of synthetic & rayon textile products that India manufactures. I am very confident that this unique business platform of 'Source India 2018' will result in many productive and long term business deals between Indian Exporters and International Importers of Manmade Fibre Textile products and its blends. It is my privilege to set the ball of 'Incredible Textiles of India' by launching this second edition of our flagship event that showcases the endless possibilities of Indian Manmade Fibre Textile products to the world".

May - June 2018

NEWS Speaking from Mumbai, head office of SRTEPC, Vice Chairman, Shri Ronak Rughani said that "We at SRTEPC are very enthusiastic about the event and look forward to welcoming and hosting more than 200 International Buyers, selected with great care to ensure that we create an environment for maximum business deals to be transacted during Source India 2018. He further elaborated "We are creating an exclusive 'Business Lounge' for strategic one to one interactions between our member exhibitors and the invited buyers.

We are also organizing a couple of informal 'Networking Dinners' to provide an opportunity for the participants to get to know each other and build long term business relationships".

Immediate Past Chairman and Convener, Shri Anil Rajvanshi said "It is SRTEPC's endeavor to partner the Govt. of India in its efforts to promote the Indian Textile Industry. As Facilitators of the Indian Man-made Fibre Textile Industry it is the Council's objective to prepare our

Industry to ride the waves of change occurring in the Global Textile Industry. The developments are happy tidings for the Man-made Fibre Textile Industry and its blends as more than 70% of the textile used in the world is synthetic and the trend is only increasing.

Organizing 'Source India 2018' is a giant step towards promotion of Indian Textile products to all corners of the world. Through our first edition of the Reverse Buyer Seller Meet we have announced the establishment of a truly global show in Textiles in India. Our second edition will serve to reinforce our objective of India being the 'Go To' destination for International Buyers and Buying Houses to source their requirements of Man-made Fibre Textile Products and its blends".

Media Key Contact: Mr. S. Balaraju Executive Director cum Secretary The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council Resham Bhavan, 78, Veer Nariman Road, Mumbai - 400020.

Email : ed@srtepc.in Phone : (+91-22) 22048797, 22048690 Fax : (+91-22) 2204 8358 / 2281 0091 http://www.srtepc.in About Source India 2018 Website: http://sourceindia.srtepc.in Source INDIA Brochure link: https://tinyurl.com/ ydy243bh Nomination Form link: https://tinyurl.com/ybap69pd Source INDIA Video: https://youtu.be/gfppkkbSKLs

St채ubli, leading global provider of high-quality automated systems and solutions for the weaving industry, will be presenting its product range this August at Febratex, Brazil's largest trade fair for the textile industry. Visitors to the booth will have the chance to find out how St채ubli's solutions for workflow automation, automated weaving preparation, and shedding for frame and Jacquard weaving can enhance their mill operations. St채ubli's state-of-the-art weaving and knitting technologies enable weaving mills to efficiently and cost-effectively produce high-quality fabrics of all sorts for a wide range of applications.

May - June 2018

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

St채ubli at Febratex 2018 State-of-the-art automation solutions for the textile industry

Topmatic-warp-tying-Installation

53

NEWS higher running speeds, superior reliability, and less noise and vibration. And Stäubli has increased the efficiency of frame weaving installations even further with its recently launched maintenance-free harness motions.

LXL electronic Jacquard machine

Visitors to the Stäubli booth (Booth 100, Sector 1, Street 7) will find this a perfect opportunity to learn all about the product range of Stäubli Textile and talk with Stäubli experts about solutions to their specific needs and applications in the mill. The pioneering products of Stäubli are the result of a well-balanced combination of reliable performance, technical perfection, and proven technologies.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Automatic warp tying ensures speed and quality The renowned TOPMATIC warp tying machinewill be on display in operation, processing a 100% cotton warp without lease. This machine handles yarns in a range of 0.8-500 tex / Nm 2 - 1,250. Featuring double-end detection,itensures optimum tying qualityandhelps minimize downtime of the weaving machine. Handling a broad range of yarns and offering easy operation and quick set up, this machine can easily be integrated into the operations of any mill.

Automatic drawing-in for an economical weaving processfor grey material and terry With its SAFIR automatic drawing-in installations, Stäubli brings further time savings into the weaving preparation process.Featuring state-of-the-art technologies such as double-end detection and repeat detection and management (both colour and S/Z), SAFIR machines are suitable for a wide range of applications and use in a variety of setups.They are ideal for weaving millsof any size that seek to optimize their workflow and increase their product quality.

High-speed frame weaving solutions for every woven application The broad range of Stäubli cam motions and dobbies includes ideal machines for any type of weft insertion system for any application. The latest generation of the S3000 and S3200 series of rotary dobbies incorporates a new locking system, which is the heart of every dobby. This evolutionary feature provides enhanced security for the selection of the heald frames, allowing 54

A wide range of Jacquard machines for every application When it comes to Jacquard weaving, mills can choose from Stäubli'scompetitive product range of Jacquard machines. Whether terry cloth, narrow fabrics, upholstery fabrics, or technical textiles, Stäubli Jacquard machines master every challenge. The recently reengineered LX series features a lifting mechanism that allows high-speed weaving of even extremely heavy fabrics. With a coaxial drive shaft and a special chassis supporting the beams and bearings, the latest models can handle up to 26% greater loads than the previous models. Improved positioning of the fans in the LX housing optimizes internal airflow, ensuring that the machine interior remains clean and at a controlled temperature. LX Jacquard machines are available in sizes up to 6,144 hooks.

One of the latest models in the high-speed LX series is the LXL, designed for even greater load capacity.

This model can be equipped with 6,144 to 16,384 hooks.

Formats up to 32,768 can be achieved by combining two machines.And because a precisely matched Jacquard system gives mills even higher performance, Stäubli offers high-end harnesses for any application, which also enables weavers to swiftly respond to changing market needs.

Automatic toe-linking device for a shorter sock production process Stäubli's recently launched D4S device is an automation solution that significantly shortens the production process of socks. Socksmust no longer be removed from the knitting machine for closing the toe on a separate machine. The D4S can be mounted directly on the circular sock knitting machine; it closes the sock immediately after knitting. The D4S significantly increases output and ensures optimum quality.

Texttreasure Science is a way of thinking much more than it is a body of knowledge.

- Carl Sagan May - June 2018

NEWS Enclosed visuals

Nadine Dairain / Press Contact Executive Phone: +33 (0)4 50 64 31 68 Mobile: +33 (0)7 60 28 22 19 E-mail: N.dairain@staubli.com

TOPMATIC warp tying installation

LXL electronic Jacquard machine for large format fabrics

For more information, please contact: Fritz Legler / Press Relations Phone: +41 81 725 01 01 E-mail: Fritz.legler@staubli.com

About the Stäubli Group Stäubli is a global mechatronics solution provider with three dedicated activities: Connectors, Robotics and Textile, serving customers who want to increase their productivity in many industrial sectors. As an international company, Stäubli currently operates in 29 countries, with agents in 50 countries on four continents.

The global workforce of 5,000 shares a commitment to partnering with customers in nearly every industry to provide comprehensive solutions with long-term support. Originally founded in 1892 as a small workshop in Horgen/Zurich, Stäubli is today headquartered in Pfäffikon/SZ, Switzerland. www.staubli.com About Stäubli Textile Stäubli Textile has been developing and producing highquality systems for the weaving industry for over a century. The company holds a strong market position in textile machinery, a position earned through the continual pursuit of customer satisfaction. www.staubli.com/textile

YarnLive App Launching Live Brent Oil & Crude Oil WTI Prices

YarnLiveannounce the launch of a new feature on their YarnLIVE app. Alongwith live prices of cotton, it can be monitor live price fluctuations of crude oil on the app too. Following live prices can find out. ◆ Brent Oil ◆ Crude Oil WTI

Products Section: ◆ Fibre ◆ Yarn ◆ Fabrics ◆ Garments ◆ Waste ◆ Stock-Lots ◆ Machinery Sell of products can through the app instantly now!

These live crude prices will give an idea whether crude prices are rising or falling globally. It is known that crude prices have a direct impact on polyesters and logistics.

Important: A reminder that you can sell any of your following products in our new Buy-Sell Your Textile

May - June 2018

For more information & suggestion, please contact: Deepak Periwal YarnLive E-mail: deepak@yarnlive.com Website: www.yarnlive.com

55

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Download the latest update of the YarnLIVE App on your mobile now!

NEWS

Yellow on the Way to Green.

Loepfe's Management Committed to A Greener Future The managementof Loepfe Brothers Ltd. decided to increase the effortsof the company in relation to environmental sustainability. "We commit ourselves to save resources, to increaseenergy efficiency of our processes and products, andto reduce the environmental impact in general", saysSilvanoAuciello, Head of Sales and Marketing.

The company already started several activities towardsa greener future. A contract has been signed with theutility provider, guaranteeing that electrical energy willbe supplied only from renewable sources. The wavesoldering process in the production of circuit boardswill be eliminated step-by-step. As a result the energyconsumption and the amount of tin-solder needed willbe reduced significantly. The use of isopropanol in

electronicsmanufacturing will be reduced as well.

Packagingof Loepfe´s product will not be of foamed polystyrenein the future. The non-biodegradable material willbe replaced by cardboard or reusable packaging. Alsosmall measures are currently implemented in Loepfe´sheadquarter in Wetzikon. For example, waste is not onlyconsequently separated, but also picked up by a certifieddisposer to minimize the environmental load.

As a result of all measures the carbon footprint ofLoepfe´s products and of the company as a whole will be much lower in the future. "We are confident, thatwe are on the right way to a much greener future of ourcompany", underlines SilvanoAuciello.

The Textile Jagat Adhiveshan Post Report sity, Indore and Shri S. K. Gupta, Director, KVIC Bhopal have graced the occasion as Guest of Honour.

The inaugural ceremony commenced with the lamp lighting ceremony by dignitaries. Welcome speech was given by Shri Awadhesh Sharma and he elaborated the importance of the Happiness in professional life.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh organized one day National Conference Textile JagatAdhiveshan on the theme of "Happiness in Textile Industry" which has been successfully organized on 23rd June, 2018 at Jall Auditorium, Indore. The program has witnessed a large gathering of Textile Industry, Academia and shop floor people and around 300 delegates from all over the India participated in the program. Program has been started by the lecture of Shri Arun Rishion Health Care by simple mean in daily life. Dr. Ved Paratp Vaidik, World Famous Journalist has graced the occasion as a Chief Guest. Ms. Seema Shrivastava, Executive Director Indian ITME Society, Shri Purshottamdas Pasari, Chancellor SVVV Univer-

56

May - June 2018

NEWS Shri T. K. Sengupta, President, TAI Central Office highlighted the importance of the theme in present scenario of the industry.Ms. Seema Srivastava showed a video of 2nd Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2019 to be held on 18th& 19thJanuary2019.

Dr. Ved Pratap Vaidik express the word of wisdom and recalled Indian supremacy in the production of Textiles at world level from ancient to modern era.

Shri HemantAmbekar expressed his views on happiness in Textileand Shri S.K. Gupta explained the specialty of Khadi& inspiration to use them in daily wear.

A Souvenir of Conference was released by Shri Ved Pratap Vaidikthe and first copy of it was given to Ms.Seema Shrivastava.

A Panel Discussion on the topic of upbringing on the Happiness in Textile Industry has been moderated by Shri T.K. Sengupta with panel members Shri. S.G. Vaidya, Dr. Rajesh Sodani and Shri Hemant Ambekar.

The discussion was actively participated by audience.

in different categories for their contribution to the textile industry.

The Best Student Award was given to Ms. Aditi Joshi of SVITT, Ms. Shilja Samariya of SDPS, Mr. Sapurna Nagar ofVaishanv Polytechnic and Monika Parekh of ATDC. The institutional support in textile award given to SVITT of SVVV, University Indore.

Vote of thanks was given by Shri Ashok Veda, he expressed special thanks to the, Dr. Ved Pratap Vaidik, Ms. Seema Shrivastava Shri Hemant Ambekar, Shri S. K. Gupta and Shri Amit Singh for graced the occasion by their presence. He also delivered special thanks to the all sponsors of the program mainly IndianITME Society, Reiter, MCX India, Aeon, Baldarbar Textile, Shri Krishna Mill, MP Textile Mills Association, Spinner Club, Veda Group and many more.

In the evening dinner has been hosted by TAI MP Team at ITC Club, Indore on the honor of Mr. T. K. Sengupta, Ms. Seema Srivastava and G.C. Members of TAI from all over the India.

Following Dignities Attend the conference:Mr. R. K. Vij, B.S. Joshi, R. C. Gupta, P. S.Tiwari, Pankaj Mahajan, Ramesh Singh, Bharat, K. L.Vidur, Haresh B. Parakh, Dr. N. N. Mahapatra,V. D. Zope, J. B. Soma, Vilas Agrawal, Ms. Kavita Kadam, Rikhil Nagpal, Purushottam Pasari T. K. Sinha, Rajat Baldua, R. P. Gautam, Vithal Phondke, Rajesh Sodani, S.Banasl, Ashok Patel, A.K. Patel, Badruddin Khan, M. K.Mehra, A. D. Patel, Ms.Rinki Malviya, S.G.Vaidya, Amit Jain, Kirty Katiyar, Sanjay Rayte Wearit, Kasravad, Mahesh Kushwah, Mohan Mandloi, Manoj Sinha, Manoj Kumar, Ajay Dixit, Rajivkumar Dubey, R. N. Yadav, R. K. Shrivastav and many others.

The various awards have been distributed in different categories. The Textile Happiness Award was given tovarious textile units like Vardhman Yarns, Nahar Spinning Mill, Prathiba Syntax, Mahima Spinner, Sagar Group, Oswal Denim, Vikram Woolen and Jawaharlal Nehru Mill. The legendry award given to Shri S. K. Shukla, Shri R. N. Yadav and Shri T. K Sengupta. Shri HemantAmbkar, Shri N. Kaushik, Shri Awdhesh Sharma, Shri A. K. Singh and Shri M.C. Rawat also felicitied May - June 2018

TAI MP Unit organized Omkaleshwar Holy Trip & Mr. Ashok Veda Took TAICentral Office SecretaryMr. K.L. Vidur, Mr. V. D. Zope, Mr. H.B. Parakh, Mr. J.B. Soma and Mr. Vithal Phondke Shri R.N. Yadav Taken active participation &enjoyed the Local Food at Nilkanth Bhojnalay. During the end of the trip, all the delegates were given Indore Famous Sweet and Namkeen with Packed Dinner Packet. The Holy Trip Ended with Happiness & Mr. Vidur & Team Expressed thanks for the feelings in TAI MP. 57

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

All The Dignities, Students, G.C. Members/Non G.C. Members Attend the Conference.

NEWS

Apparel Connect 2018: Focus on Streamlining Logistics to Support T & A Industry "To tap the burgeoning logistics industry, Apparel Connect 2018, a conference on Apparel logistics, was held on May 17, 2018 in New Delhi. The one -day conference provided an excellent knowledge sharing and networking platform to over 150 plus logistics and apparel industry professionals. Speaking on the growing importance of logistics industry in India, Sanjay Jain, President, CITI said, "Logistics has, over these years, been changing trade dynamics both back home and globally. Especially the advent of GST has been a catalyst in putting spotlight on logistics and this forum will only underscore this underlying fundamental."

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

To tap the burgeoning logistics industry, Apparel Connect 2018, a conference on Apparel logistics, was held on May 17, 2018 in New Delhi. The one -day conference provided an excellent knowledge sharing and networking platform to over 150 plus logistics and apparel industry professionals. Speaking on the growing importance of logistics industry in India, Sanjay Jain, President, CITI said, "Logistics has, over these years, been changing trade dynamics both back home and globally. Especially the advent of GST has been a catalyst in putting spotlight on logistics and this forum will only underscore this underlying fundamental."

The conference was broadly divided into four sessions to discuss every aspect of the apparel supply chain.

Delineating the supply chain The first session pondered over international logistics.

The discussions centered around the impact and channels of distribution, the economic impact of logistics and SCM on channels of distribution, fashion retail logistics and SCM, global risk, disruption and supply chain security, custom clearance and fluctuation in freight rates.

58

The second session focused on the importance of sticking to on time delivery through logistics besides developing an efficient supply chain to reduce production time. As Vijay Mathur, Chairman, Global Skill Management pointed out, "Zara (Inditex) in its recent annual report mentioned as many as 173 times the word 'logistics' and some good 218 times about the 'supply chain'. Not only that, its chairman who is a global icon uttered four times the magic world logistics in his personal address. This underscores the prominence today logistics function takes in any given global apparel organisation."

The third session revolved around how to make the current supply chain structure future ready along with managing offshoring and outsourcing. As Anil Verma, President, Delhi Exporters Association explained, "Ease of doing business factor will surely go a long way in making us more competitive. But critically speaking, still there is a lot of elbow room available to make it more industry friendly and efficient." Mr. Sengupta, President the Textile Association (India) and Mr. Sanjay Chawala, DFU publications were presented their views in the panel discussion.

The last session of the conference dwelt on the need for maximising warehousing capacity and locating distribution facilities near major metropolitan areas to meet the demand for tighter deliveries.

Effective solutions Vandana Agarwal, Economic Advisor, Ministry of Civil Aviation, who was the chief guest at the event, sought industry feedback on where policy/regulatory environment is falling short of expectations.

The participants emphasized on the need for a single May - June 2018

NEWS window clearance system "To augment in some sense more competitiveness to textile and apparel industry fiercely vying within the competitive space," said Satya Prasad Sahu, Commissioner Excise & Customs (Single Window).

A panel addressed the pressing issues of apparel exports and apparel supply chain. Professionals from logistics service provider (LSP) companies, apparel exporters, freight forwarders, textile associations brain stormed on ways to make efficient and cost-effective apparel supply chain a reality for the segment to be a high-margin profit business. As HKL Magu, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council, special guest at the event, emphatically remarked "the logistic cost has to attain uniformity and stability, which is the unsaid duty of logistic players who in turn inevitably need to get in dialogue with aviation players" Among the prominent attendees were: Om Logistics (Logistics Partner), Triway Container Freight Station (Registration Partner), Gati-Kintetsu Express (Associate Partner), Spoton Logistics (Souvenir Partner), Safexpress (Networking Partner) and Skyways Group (Lanyard Partner) while KerryIndev Logistics, GatiKintetsu Express, Namaste India Aviation and Perfect Express Movers.

Farm to Fashion, Indian Textile Global Summit Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industries (GCCI), Ahmedabad organized a "Farm to Fashion - Indian Textile Global Summit" on 4th & 5th May, 2018.

He was Moderator for Panel discussion held on 5th May, 2018 for the topic 'Technical Textiles - A Bright Future for Indian's Textile Industry'.

Shri Suresh Prabhu, Union Minister of Commerce & Industries, Shri Vijay Rupani, Chief Minister of Gujarat, Shri Parshottam Rupala, Union Minister of State for Agriculture and Other distinguished Persons were present on the Inaugural Ceremony.

Summit has led to generation of business of over Rs. 1,000 Crore for textile industry in just 3 days. With this resounding success in the first edition, GCCI hopes to make this initiative an annual event and they are confident for their partnerships which will get stronger.

The above Summit was a grand success and well attended by distinguished Delegates & Speakers.

May - June 2018

59

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

On behalf of The Textile Association (India), Mr. T.K. Sengupta, Presidentattended the Summit. He was one of the Panel Speaker in the panel discussion held on 04th in two session's viz. 'Growth Driven by Innovation &Value Addition' and 'Essential for World Class Fabric & Processing Business in India'.

NEWS

Grasim Industries achieves Gold Level Material Health Certification The first Viscose Staple Fibre (VSF) manufacturer to get this certification Grasim Industries Limited, a flagship company of USD 43 billion Aditya Birla Group has earned a Gold level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute for their product Birla Spunshades Viscose Staple Fibre.

Grasim Industries assessed Birla Spunshades VSF against the criteria of the Material Health category in the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard.

Based on the superior results it has earned a Gold level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. Headquartered in San Francisco, California USA, the Institute is a non-profit organization that administers the publicly available Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard which provides designers and manufacturers with criteria and requirements for continually improving what products are made of and how they are made.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

To achieve certification, materials and products must be assessed across five sustainability categories: material health, material reutilization, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship, and social fairness. A product receives an achievement level in each category - Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold, or Platinum. The certificate is valid for 2 years, after which manufacturers must demonstrate their work to further better their products for recertification.

Mr. Dilip Gaur, Managing Director, Grasim Industries said, "We are the first VSF manufacturer to get this certification, a truly great achievement by the Grasim team. This is yet another milestone in our sustainability journey. It reaffirms that sustainability is at the core of our business strategy. At Grasim, continuously striving for manufacturing excellence and focussing on sustainable production is a never ending journey. Having been certified Gold our aspirations is to reach for Platinum" Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Chief Marketing Officer, Pulp and

Fibre Business, Grasim Industries remarked "Material Health Certificate for Birla Spunshades from Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute will enhance the goodwill that our brand enjoys among our customers."

"This certification confirms that viscose fibre is made for closed-loop systems with its natural origin & will enhance the confidence of the value chain players in delivering sustainable products," said Mr. Ajay Sardana, Chief Sustainability Officer of Grasim Industries.

Birla Spunshades, a USDA Biobased certified product, is made with coloured spun-dyed viscose fiber and a technique that embeds the colour pigments into the fibre itself. The result is a colour that fully saturates the fibre. Fibres are designed for fastness properties and uniformity in colour in order to prevent garments from losing colour during washes. Spun-dyed viscose fibres are designed to eliminate conventional fabric dyeing and washing-off steps leading to huge water conservation. The Certificate can be accessed here.

The Material Health Certificate issued by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute uses the material health assessment methodology of the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard to provide manufacturers with a trusted way to communicate their work towards chemically optimized products. To achieve a Material Health Certificate, a product must meet the same requirements at each level of the Material Health section of the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard, plus a continuous improvement/optimization requirement.

The Cradle to Cradle standard assesses product safety in context of people and the environment, as well as product design for material reuse. Based on the Cradle to Cradle 'industrial design philosophy', its purpose is to eliminate waste and to encourage products to be developed for closed-loop systems.

Align your company with the growing authority in Textiles 60

May - June 2018

NEWS

International Conference on Nonwoven Technical Textiles Theme- NONWOVENS FOR HIGH-PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) organized a one day "InternationalConference on Nonwoven Technical Textiles" with a focused theme on "Nonwovens for High-Performance Applications" held on 6th June, 2018, during the Non Woven Tech Asia 2018, organized by Radeecal, which was held from 68 June, 2018 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai.

The conference received over whelming response from the industry.

Inaugural Session

Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman, ITTA, in his inaugural address, talked about the Nonwoven Tech Asia Exhibition and highlighted about the letter from Shri. Nitin Gadkari, Honorable Minister of Road Transport and Highways to Government of Maharashtra on the reverse of Ban on Nonwoven bags. He hopes that Government will not equalize nonwovens to plastics.He emphasized that nonwovens are mostly used in automotive, packaging, industrial sectors, etc. Nonwoven market is growing in Europe & USA and woven market is stabilizing & going down. India has a great hope for export more than domestic. Lastly, he thanked Radeecal for organizing the nonwoven exhibition even after the ban.

Technical Session I - "Growth Potential & Latest Technology of Nonwoven Industry" The following presentations were made during this session.

Dr. AnupRakshit, Executive Director, ITTA, welcomed all the dignitaries, delegates and speakers on behalf of ITTA and Radeecal. He said that the topics were chosen as per the theme of the conference covering High-Performance Applications of nonwovens, spreading over 11 presentations by eminent speakers from Industry & COEs. Mr. Sanyal Desai, CEO, Radeecal Communications and Mr. Suresh Patel, President, INDINON spoke about the issue of Ban on Nonwoven Bags in Maharashtra and how it is affected the nonwoven roll goods and bag manufacturing industry.

Dr. Anjan Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA highlighted how the nonwovens are used in different high-tech areas like insulation material, protective suit, waste water treatment, etc. He also briefed aboutthe R&D, testing and training facilities available at BTRA as a COEGEOTECH. May - June 2018

2. Light Weight Mobility Solutions through Nonwoven Fabrics by Dr. PKC Bose, Saertex India Pvt. Ltd. talked about the Saertex Group, leaders in advanced technical textiles made of Glass, Carbon & Aramid and have major applications in Wind Energy, Automobiles, Marine, Aerospace, Industrial and Infrastructure.He briefed about the non-crimp fabrics, difference between non-crimp and crimp fabrics and its advantages. Light weight mobility solutions where used by Saertex in many of their products such as composite bus and truck body, container, carbon composite used in solar vehicle, Mercedes, thruster for roll Royce, marine and railway sector and mainly used in 61

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

L to R: Dr. Anup Rakshit, Suresh Patel, Pramod Khosla, Dr. A. Mukhopadhyay & Sanjay Desai

1. Emerging Opportunities in India for Nonwoven Technology and Products by Mr. Ravishankar Gopal, K's Technical & Management Consultants emphasized about the emerging technologies for Nonwoven Industry. He highlighted the different technologies i.e.

Spunmelt - Spunbond, Spunlace, Thermobond, Needlepunch, Wetlaid, Airlaid, etc. He talked about theNanofibre Spinning/Electro Spinning and new possibilities with Needlepunch.Newdevelopment such as Geodetect, Wetlaid nonwoven system, etc. Investment estimates in Machinery are Meltblown Webs: 1-3M $, Melt Blown Filter and Laminating: 1-2M $, Nanofiber Webs: 2-3M $, Wetlaid Nonwovens: 5-8M $, Air Laid Nonwovens: 5-10M $ &Geocells: 2-5M $.

NEWS defence industry for submarine parts, armour applications, etc.

3. Supply Chain for Nonwoven and Technical Textile by Mr. Viren Mehta, Group CEO, KP Tech Nonwoven & Bookmyparts.com. He explained about the supply chain for nonwoven & technical textile industry where nonwoven supply chain elements are materials, engineering, inventory, sales, logistics and customer. He highlighted that KP Tech has the machineries for different nonwoven products used in Packtech, Meditech, Agrotech & Hometech and Bookmyparts.com is the supplier for machine spare parts. KP Tech Group is working on the project to Produce PLA - Poly lactic Acid - the environment friendly plastics.

Technical Session II - "Filtration, Coating & Protective Textiles" The following presentations were made during this session.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

1. Mr. SenthilRajan, Arvind Ltd. presented the topic on High Performance Nonwoven Filter Media for Hot Gas Filtration. He spoke about theAdvanced Materials like FR, woven filtration fabrics, industrial belting fabrics, nonwoven felts, etc. and also the importance of High Performance NW Filter Media. Polypropylene, Homopolymer Acrylic, Polyester, M-Aramid, Polyphenylene Sulfide (PPS), Polyimide & Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) are the fibres used in Dry Gas Filtration. Types of Proprietary Finishes Superbond & Twintech.

2. Latest Coating & Lamination Technology on Nonwovens by Mr. K. K. Baheti, Shubh Swasan, Chennai.He spoke about huge market potential of the coated and laminated textiles in India. The untapped potential of these products to be explored. First we have to understand the customers' requirements and then develop products accordingly he said. They have developed number of products using coated textiles.e.g., cold weather sleeping bags, jackets, etc.

3. Nonwovens for Protection against Extreme Climatic conditions by Mr. Vinoth Prabu, Scientist, DEBEL, DRDO, Bangalore. DEBEL prime focus is on developing life support systems and bio-medical systems for the armed forces and they services to the Army, Air Force, Navy, Para Military and NDRF.He highlighted some of the products developed by DEBEL which includes Flame retardant overall, NATO Suit, 62

Anti Gravitational suit, Combat free fall trooper clothing system, Hydro suit for under water operation. All the products are inducted into armed forces and bulk productionized under various capacities.The other system includes Chemical protective suit, HAPO chamber, electrically heated suit, insoles and gloves, Thermo bonded super absorbent nonwoven and evaporative cooling in Environmental chamber.

TechnicalSessionIII - "Medical, Hygiene Products & Standardization" Thefollowingpresentations were made during this session.

1. Innovations in Spunlace Nonwovens by Mr. A. B. Telesang, Welspun India.He highlighted the definitions of Spunlace nonwoven and key properties which makes it differ with other nonwovens.He talked about the Conventional applications such as wipes (core market of Spunlace nonwovens), medical, coating substrate, filters, hygiene and automotive headliner. He also briefed the meaning of Non-conventional (Innovations) and its applications such as refreshing, sunscreen, anti-mosquito & anti-bacterial wipes, etc., dyed/printed - table tops, composite veils, coated nonwovens, filtration, home textiles - after treatment or lamination and disposable nonwovens/ biodegradable. New emerging segment are electrical insulation paper for batteries and electrical vehicles: filters/ insulations/ cable wrapper.

2.Meditech Product Development in India by Dr. Ketankumar Vadodaria, SITRA (COE-MEDITECH) explained about the medical textiles used in the patient (Implantable), outside the patient (Non-implantable), near the patient (Devices & systems) and for the patient (Hygiene).

He highlighted that physical, chemical and biological testing is possible at SITRA. Developed products are Hernia mesh, Bifurcated Vascular Grafts, Barbed, Bidirectional surgical sutures (knotless sutures), Rotatorcuff repair devices for shoulder reconstruction. Wound dressing- Spunlace wound dressing and PCL/Herbal drug loaded nanomembrane, surgical bandages and Nanofinished woven surgical gown.

4. Current status of nonwoven Product Standardization & Testing was presented by Dr. Anup Rakshit, ED, ITTA. He highlighted the definition and different types of bonding used for the formation of nonwovens.Standardization of nonwoven is spread across various technical committees based on their applications. At present, the following committees are May - June 2018

NEWS mainly working on nonwovens:Geosynthetics Sectional Committee, TXD 30, Industrial Fabrics Sectional Committee, TXD 33, Technical Textiles for Medtech Applications Sectional Committee, TXD 36 and Textile Materials Made from Poly olefins Sectional Committee, TXD 23. He spoke about different test methods standards on PP Nonwovens crop covers, bandage rolls, etc., and also important standards under development on nonwovens.

Technical Session IV - "Geotextiles & Product Development Opportunities"

2. Opportunities in Nonwovens in India - Role of DKTE Centre of Excellence in Nonwovens by Mr. Aniket Bhute, DKTE (COE-NONWOVENS). He talked about the nonwoven machineries available at DKTE i.e. Needle punching line, Thermal bonding and testing facilities available at DKTE. The R&D activities of DKTE are nonwoven for drainage application, sludge de-watering filter bag, automotive fabric, geotextiles, filter fabric, geobags, Development of silver nano particle based nonwovens for various food processing industry (Especially for Milk filtration application) and Development of insulating layer for Defense application. And also highlighted the training courses available at DKTE.

1. Growth potential of Nonwoven Geotextiles in India by Dr. M. K. Talukdar, Kusumgar Corporates.

He briefed some of the nonwovens in geotechnical applications i.e. retaining wall, drainage and filtration, drainage prefabricated composite, erosion control, asphalt overlay and landfill. He highlighted the expected global growth of geotextiles from US 5.75 bln 9(Rs 40 lakh cr) in 2017 &US 9.35 bln (Rs 61 lakh cr) in 2022 at a growth rate of 10.2%. Nonwoven Production process wise is 385 Thousand MT. There are also some of the other applications of geotextiles such as pavement overlaying and geotextiles in rail track foundation.

View of the Audience

Interview with Dr. N. N.Mahapatra, President, Colorant India Source: Fiber2fashion.com

Q.: What is the size of the textile dyes & chemicals industry globally? What is the expected growth rate by 2020?

Ans.:The textile dyes market was valued at USD 6.94 Billion in 2016 and is projected to reach USD 9.82 Billion by 2020, at a CAGR of 6.00% during the forecast period.

The growing demand for textile dyes for various fiber types, such as cotton, polyester, and viscose, is exMay - June 2018

The cotton segment is expected to be the fastest-growing fiber type segment of the textile dyes market during the forecast period.

The digital textile printing market is expected to be worth USD 2.31 billion by 2023 from USD 1.76 billion in 2018, at a CAGR of 5.59% between 2018 and 2023.

The growing demand for sustainable printing; increasing demand for digital textile printing in the garment and advertising industries; shortening lifespan and faster adaptability of fashion designs; development of new technologies in the textile industry; reduced per unit 63

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

pected to fuel the growth of the textile dyes market.

On the other hand, stringent environmental regulations are expected to restrain the growth of the textile dyes market during the forecast period.

"Cotton is projected to be the fastest-growing fiber type segment of the textile dyes market during the forecast period."

NEWS cost of printing with digital printers, and growth of the e-commerce industry are the major factors driving the market.

The textile chemicals market was valued at US$ 21.80 Bn in 2016, and is expected to reach US$ 30.23 Bn by 2020, expanding at a CAGR of 3.7%. The global textile chemicals market is expected to witness a CAGR of 3.82% during the forecast period. Textile chemicals include a vast line of products ranging from highly specialized chemicals, such as flame-retardants, pH regulators to relatively simple commodity chemicals, like bleaches. They are an integral part of various commercial and industrial sectors, where any sort of fabric is used in operation.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Q.: What new applications and end-products have you developed for the textile and apparel industry?

Ans.:As we are focused on only Reactive Dyes so our new applications are in Reactive Dyes only. We have developed Reactive dyes which are salt free dyes giving good results in dyeing .We have Reactive Dyes suitable for Garments having Dischargeable properties.

We also have dyes which are focused on the following; 1. Good leveling & diffusion properties 2. Short liquor ratio dyeing possible &new state of the art on tone buildup 3. Good penetration & leveling properties 4. High fixation value (OVER 80%) 5. Appropriate dye selection meets retailer requirement 6. Robust dyeing system 7. Excellent compatibility of dyes & Innovative chemistry 8. High reproducibility & Right First Time production 9. Excellent washing & wet fastness & Very Good High Light FAastness 10. Achieved fastness to Oxidative bleach M&S C10A & Chlorinated water 11. Less shading less diluent less contribution to the effluent 12. Right first time performance for cold pad batch, continuous dyeing, and exhaust dyeing 13. Compact flexible engineered molecules with high solubility even presence of salt & outstanding bath stability 64

14. Highest level of lab to bulk. So automatically boots production drastically (bulk to bulk) Q.: How is the company positioned compared to other players? What is your USP? Ans.: In Reactive Dyes manufacturing we are in 4 th position among the Indian Reactive Dyes manufacturer. We are a medium scale company focusing on only one class of dyes called Reactive Dyes. Our innovation and tailor made products for the Textile Industries is our USP. A unique selling proposition (USP, also seen as unique selling point) is a factor that differentiates a product from its competitors, such as the lowest cost, the highest quality or the first-ever product of its kind. A USP could be thought of as "what you have that competitors don't."

A successful USP promises a clearly articulated benefit to consumers, offers them something that competitive products can't or don't offer, and is compelling enough to attract new customers.

Q.: Which are your bestselling products?

Ans.:1. Colron SF series - For light and medium shades.

2. Colron CN series - For High Light fastness shades 3. Colron CES series - for medium and dark shades.

4. Colron GLX series - For medium and dark shades.

Following properties of our Colron GLX series is widely accepted in the market due to; 1. Compact range for deep & extra deep shades with cost effectiveness & excellent overall fastness & performance 2. Very deep shades attainable 3. Dischargeable dyes range cover all gamut 4. Dyeing Temperature 60 deg. & also dyeing with Room Temperature (40 deg.) with Easy washing off 5. with low amount of dye 6. Highly economical 7. Good leveling & diffusion properties 8. Short liquor ratio dyeing possible 9. Meet today's quality & fastness requirement 10. New state of the art on tone buildup 11. Highest tintorial strength 12. Top productivity & high reproducibility

May - June 2018

NEWS

Q.: Which are your major markets? Which are the upcoming markets for textile dyes & chemicals?

Ans.: In Domestic we cater to the whole of Indian Textile Industry which consists of Corporates.Semi Corporates and Small scale sectors.

In Export our major markets are Brazil, Nigeria, Pakistan, Turkey, Iran and Bangladesh The upcoming markets are countries like Ethiopia, Vietnam and Honduras.

Q.: What are the latest technological innovations taking place in green chemicals?

Ans.: A green chemical is one that provides higher performance and functionality while being more environmentally benign throughout its entire life-cycle. This approach has been codified in the Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry that provide a framework for innovation and design.Industries are morefocusing on application of Enzymes in Processing like Bioscouring,Bio washing, Bio desizing, etc. Latest introduction is in Soaping at room temperature using Enzymes. Colour removal in Effluents by the use of Enzymes. Instead of Inorganic Chemical Coagulation method in Effluent treatment is replaced by Microbial Bio treatment which leads to less Sludge formation.

Q.: What are the issues plaguing this segment?

Ans.: The fluctuating prices of Dye Intermediates(raw materials for dyes manufacturing) is making this segment difficult. The Government policies at place has become outdated now. Once upon a time India was very strong in manufacturing Dye intermediates but later on China took over.Now China is having issues time to time where our Indian dyestuff industries suffer who depend on China imports.

The Government should come out with a clear cut policy for establishing or expanding the Dye Intermediates industry. Initially the Government should give May - June 2018

Subsidies to such up-coming industries.

Q.: Which are the developing trends in various textile dyes segments?

Ans.: Reactive Dyes with better exhaustion and better fixation. Ink jet dyes are gaining importance for Digital Printing. Our R& D is busy in developing Reactive Dyes having more exhaustion and fixation leading to less environmental issues.

These products will come very soon in the market and it will create a sensation in the textile dyes segment.

There should be more research in ICT (former UDCT) and should come out with new dye molecule having a better chemistry. We should not depend on European or American researchers to give us the technical knowhow.They also charge very heavy amount for this consultancy. We should fulfill our PM Sri NarendraModijis "Made in India" campaign. The Dyes manufacturing units should work hand in hand with ICT and other Dyes Research organizations in India.

Q.: What are 'colour standards'? What is their significance in the textile, apparel and fashion industry?

Ans.: The entire Supply chain follows PANTONE shade cards. Pantone is a standardized color matching system, utilizing the Pantone numbering system for identifying colors. By standardizing the colors, different manufacturers in different locations can all reference a Pantone numbered color, making sure colors match without direct contact with one another.

Pantone also has a Textile palette, which consists of 1,925 Pantone for Fashion and Home colors, identified by two digits, followed by a hyphen, four digits, and then a suffix. They also have a name, as a secondary identifier.The Fashion and Home colors are used by fashion, textile, and apparel designers and manufacturers worldwide. For example Pantone 19-2430 could be identified as Pantone 19-2430 TPX Purple Potion (Printed on Paper) or 19-2430 TCPurple Potion (Dyed on Cotton).

Q.: What is the carbon & water footprint of the company?

Ans.: Being a dyestuff manufacturer, Colorant is part of the chemicals industry. Chemicals are also the main raw materials for Colron products. Dyestuff manufacturing processes consume water and energy and generate wastewater and waste. Reducing water-use, cutting carbon emissions and treatment and safe disposal of waste are the key environmental areas of 65

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Following are the advantages of our ColronCES series dyes; 1. High colour strength 2. Very deep shades with low amount of dye 3. Massive electrolyte reduction 4. Less dye required to achieve the depth 5. Good penetration & leveling properties 6. High fixation value 7. Effluent water & energy saving 8. High fixation value 9. Appropriate dye selection meets retailer requirement

NEWS concern for our stakeholders and us. Apart from the environment, workplace health and safety are the other important areas as our production plants involve the transport, storage, handling and processing of a wide variety of chemicals. Our customers have growing interest in understanding the carbon footprint of our products. They also expect us to be able to innovate and offer products, which has lower environmental impact.

Q.: What percentage of your revenues is earmarked for R&D in the textiles industry?

Ans.: We have one of the best Application Lab in India having all latest lab machines and automation where we give technical service to our customers. The Lab does all R & D work needed to support the textile industries. But basic research on Dyes molecule requires highly sophisticated lab equipment which we don't have. Such type of research can be done in

ATIRA,BTRA,NITRA etc.

Q.: What has been your growth percentage in the last two years? What is the target set for the next two?

Ans. :Two years back the price of H ACID was at the peak as a result the dyes industries suffered heavily.It was about 15 % growth in the last year. After we get the required permission for expansion our target for next two years will be about 25 %.

Q.: What are the future plans at the company?

Ans.: We have proposed to go on a backward integration for setting up a Dye Intermediates plant in the upcoming GIDC Saykha Industrial Estate,Bharuch Dist.: Gujarat. Besides this in the present set up we are planning to double our production capacity of reactive dyes.

Interview with Mr. G. Rajamanickam, Executive Director, Lucky Yarn Tex, Erode

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Lucky Weaves has recently installed a KARL MAYER PROSIZE sizing machine, the latest innovation in sizing. A.T.E.'s brief interview with Mr. G. Rajamanickam, Executive Director, Lucky Weaves, about this investment is reproduced below.

Mr. G. Rajamanickam

A.T.E.: Could you please give us an introduction to Lucky Weaves?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam: Lucky Weaves is a part of the Lucky Group which was established in 1976. Lucky Group a pioneer and a well-known manufacturer of quality yarn for hosiery and weaving including compact viscose and vortex yarns. Taking advantage of our rich experience in the spinning industry, we also ventured 66

into weaving to cater to the growing textile market.

Lucky Yarn Tex and Lucky Weaves were set-up in 2008 as integrated spinning and weaving units having 50,000 spindles and 200 Toyota JAT 810 air jet looms respectively. We have recently installed a KARL MAYER PROSIZE sizing machine and a high speed direct warping, WARPDIRECT, at Lucky Weaves.

A.T.E.: As for many years your focus has been on other business areas, could you tell us how the plan for the sizing project came-up?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam : In 2008 when we ventured into the integrated spinning and weaving project with 50 air jet looms, we were getting job-work done for our weavers' beams only from KARL MAYER sizing machines installed in the Erode area and this helped us to achieve highest efficiency on our air jet looms. We were also outsourcing large amount of grey fabrics to the nearby weaving industries.

Now when we further increased our capacity we decided without a doubt to install a KARL MAYER sizing machine for our own looms and also to offer quality sized beams to the market from where we are outsourcing grey fabric.

A.T.E.: What were you searching for in making your May - June 2018

NEWS choice for the machinery supplier for this project?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam: Initially, we were thinking about a low cost solution, but as we have experienced the excellent and consistent working performance of warp yarn sized on KARL MAYER machines from nearby sizing units in Erode, it was easy to make up our mind to go for KARL MAYER. After learning about the PROSIZE technology we opted for it. We have now installed a KARL MAYER PROSIZE machine.

A.T.E.: Can you explain how KARL MAYER machinery fit in to your buying criteria?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam : As I mentioned, we were quite satisfied with the quality of beams sized on KARL MAYER machines sourced from the nearby sizing units.

Hence, we wanted to go for KARL MAYER machine. When KARL MAYER introduced the new PROSIZE technology, we made our choice at once to go for this machine. Apart from the technology, performance, and quality, we also considered the technical and after-sales support from A.T.E., which are top class.

A.T.E.: Could you share your experience working with A.T.E. as a business partner?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam : A.T.E. is good at providing appropriate guidance and suitable solutions. A.T.E. maintains a high level of transparency in its dealings.

We are happy to be with A.T.E. A.T.E.: What are your future plans for expansion and how do you see A.T.E. group in your future expansions and modernisation plans?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam : Since A.T.E. is in various verticals like spinning, weaving, solar, ETP, etc., we surely count upon A.T.E. as our best business partner.

A.T.E.: What do you think A.T.E. needs to do better?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam: In totality, we are happy and satisfied in dealing with A.T.E. A.T.E.: What is your experience so far about the performance of KARL MAYER PROSIZE technology?

Mr. G. Rajamanickam : Our experience about sizing machines prior to our purchase was limited but we were knowing that good quality sizing machines run at a maximum speed of 90-100 m/minute and possibly also give better performance at looms with around 90% working efficiency. But with PROSIZE, we are surprised to see the machine consistently running at 130-150 m/minute, much higher than the earlier technologies, and also our loom performance is elevated to 95% efficiency. Besides higher productivity, we have also observed other major benefits like no sizing stop marks, less lappers, better stretch and elongation of warp, less droppings at looms and many more.

IssueLess Mind & Disease Free Body at NLP

In modern society, people have many Issues in their Life (Personal, Social, Health, Economical etc.). Worldwide, NLP is used to treat to many such problems.

However, in India, people don't know much about it.

The speaker of the seminar, Mr. Amrish Bhatt, has visited UK & Europe to learn NLP & SUB-CONSCIOUS MIND POWER techniques and spend more than 3 years.

Generally, if there are HEALTH related issues, we consult doctors and they manage nicely everything, but don't know the root causes for the same.

May - June 2018

There is huge rise in PSYCHOSOMATIC DISEASE...

Stress-Depression-Insomnia-Acidity- Disturbed Past pian- Loss of Enthusiasm- Loss of Interest in Life/ Business- Obesity-Loss of Hope - Anger- AnxietyPhobias-Exam fear- Loss of Confidence - Fear of Competition etc. All these diseases are related to both body and mind of the individuals.

NLP (Neuro Linguistic Programming) can help greatly to treat PSYCHOSOMATIC DISEASE. It requiresNo tablet, No medicine but only thought changing. God has already given us natural capacity to heal and repair all this. We have to unleash tremendous potential within.

At the end of the seminar, Mr. Bhatt had taught few mental exercises for HOW TO USE OUR OWN POWER to get rid of all this easily.

67

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India), South Gujarat Unit organized a seminar on"Issue Less Mind & Disease Free Body at NLP" on 28th April, 2018 at Aastha Hall, Aastha Corporate Capital, Surat. Mr. Amrish Bhatt, Editor, Textile Graph has presented very nicely.

NEWS Now-a-days, NLP is widely used by Businessmen Sportsperson- Professionals- Housewife- StudentsPoliticians etc. This seminar was attended by over 45 members of The Textile Association (India), South Gujarat Unit, Surat and other guests. The seminar was followed by the Dinner.

Live demonstration of Roland's Professional Dye Sublimation Transfer Printer at Heimtextil technology in India, the printers will be on display throughout Heimtextil 2018.

The Texart XT-640 is one of the top dye-sublimation transfer printers designed exclusively for the textile printing industry. They offer wide range of textile applications including sports merchandising, fashion apparel, soft signs (polyester banners and flags), home furnishing interior dĂŠcor, promotional items and personalized gifts.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Texart Series XT 640 Printer

Aiming to offer Leading Brands, Manufacturers, Exporters of Home DĂŠcor & Furnishing products exceptional productivity and image quality, Roland DG Corporation will exhibit the World's Leading Texart Series XT 640 Printer thru its India & SAARC Master Distributor & Technical Support Partner Apsom Infotex Limited. The Roland Texart XT 640 boasts of extreme strength & style, quality, reliability & stability the hallmarks of all Roland DG Products,to add value for users that work in the Home Decor markets.Available from Apsom Infotex Ltd, master distributor of Roland DG 68

This printer is part of digital print production of finished products in cushions, curtains, upholstery fabrics, made ups, table placements, flat rugs, carpets, durries & printed fabric production with all major Brands, Manufacturers & Exporters across the country.

The XT-640 features dual print heads to achieve highspeed performance print speeds of up to 63m2/h. The chassis has been reinforced for stability, enabling highly detailed printing with precise ink droplet placement. A convenient feed adjuster at the front and back of the printer provides even tensioning and prevents skewing of the media.

May - June 2018

NEWS Optimized for textile printing, the accompanying Texart inks deliver bold and vibrant colors and deep, rich blacks. Adding orange and violet inks increases the color gamut and allows for exceptional reds, oranges, deep blues and purples, while light cyan and light magenta provide subtle gradations, beautiful skin tones and a remarkably fine level of detail. The XT640 also offers Fluorescent Color support.

Apsom Infotex and Roland DG will be exhibiting on Stall H300, Hall 11.

For more information, please contact: Media Contacts: Arun Rao Taurus Communications Founder Ahmedabad Mob: +91 982 503 8518 / E-mail: arun@tauruscomm.net Nikhil Dogra Apsom Infotex Ltd Marketing Manager Mob: +91 981 074 9041 / E-mail: Nikhil@apsom.com

Autefa presents solutions for thermo- and acoustical

Autefa Solutions Aerodynamic Web Forming Airlay 1

Autefa Solutions needling line May - June 2018

During Techtextil, visitors will experience the economic and technical advantages of Autefa Solutions as a full line supplier for carded- crosslappedneedlepunch lines, aerodynamic web forming technology, spunlace, and thermobonding lines. Autefa Solutions nonwovens lines meet customers' requirements for quality web formation, bonding, active weight regulation, and minimal maintenance.

The recently delivered complete line to IDEAL Automotive GmbH, an international system supplier and development partner for the Automotive industry, covers the need of the highly-competitive Automotive market. High-speed and an improved quality have been set as key targets by the customer. Carbon and glass fibers reinforced plastics as well as composites with natural fibers result in extremely light and stable components. Autefa Solutions shows innovative solutions for the processing and recycling of carbon-, glass-, aramid- and natural fibers. Since 2010 the company is concerned with the re-utilization of recycled carbon fibers to carbon fiber nonwovens and has already successfully placed production lines in the market.

Based on the reliable technology and the long-standing experience of the former company Fehrer in Linz, Austria, AUTEFA Solutions delivers high innovative Stylus needle looms with the Variliptic drive concept (elliptical needling) and with the NL drive for vertical needling. The Stylus needle loom improves the web quality, by reducing the draft especially in the preneedling process, increases the machine durability and minimizes maintenance.

AstenJohnson, a global manufacturer for the paper industry, has invested in a new line. Autefa Solutions has delivered a complete needlepunch line with nonwovens carding system Masterfelt, crosslapper Topliner and two over 13 m wide needle looms Stylus 69

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

In the construction, residential and automotive market, efficient thermal and acoustic insulation materials are key factors that contribute to energy saving and to the reduction of natural resources consumption. The aerodynamic web forming process with Autefa Solutions random card Airlay K 12 stands for an improved MD:CD ratio and a three-dimensional web structure.

During the process the fiber material is opened up to the single fiber; this enables a high versatility regarding fiber choice. The Airlay K 12 offers the special advantages when it comes to lighter weights and high loft fabrics. The increased opening capabilities distinguish itself for PET as well as fiberglass fiber processing.

NEWS Variliptic and Stylus NL. André Imhof, COO Autefa Solutions: "Our customers like the extremely reliable and robust Stylus series. The machines are often heavier and bigger than other nedensities up to 30000 needles per meter and highest production due to stroke frequencies up to 3000 rpm in continuous operation".

Energy saving spunlace solutions Hydroentanglement is the ideal method of producing nonwovens for the strong growing wipes or cotton pads markets. Autefa Solutions has developed and patented the V-Jet injector. The V-Jet injector is installed in several productions and led to significantly higher tensile strength at same entangling water pressure than a standard injector. The possible reduction of water pressure is in the range of 20 %. In addition, the water consumption is reduced by 10 % when using the same nozzle diameter and pitch. The new Square Drum Dryer SQ-V combines the advantages of a horizontal dryer with the lower space requirement of a conventional drum dryer. The nozzle system uniformly distributes the airflow in terms of speed and temperature throughout the whole working width, providing best spunlace web and surface quality results. The Square Drum Dryer SQ-V has different heating zones and operates each heating zone with optimal drying conditions. Due to the small footprint the Square Drum Dryer SQ-V is the ideal solution for energy optimizing of existing lines.

Complete lines from Autefa Solutions for the manufacturing of ADL The consumer products benefit from the nonwovens features elasticity, softness and absorption. As a premium supplier, Autefa Solutions delivers machines for opening, blending and carding as well as ovens and dryers out of one hand. Autefa Solutions high-speed oven HiPerTherm HS distinguishes itself by an approved accuracy airflow system with high production speeds up to 250 m/min. The HiPerTherm HS is a single belt oven for thermobonding and drying. The double nozzle system allows the creation of extremely uniform product treatment. The key strengths of the AUTEFA Solutions belt dryers are highest uniform airflow, the precisely adjustable temperature distribution and the ability to maintain loft. The machine has been especially designed for the manufacturing of top sheets and ADL what demands utmost accuracy. The nozzle design prevents dust accumulations and ensures the capture of dust in the automatic filter systems.

JuttaSoell(Dipl.-Ing) Head of Marketing AUTEFA Solutions Germany GmbH Paul-Lenz- Straße 1 86316 Friedberg - Germany T +49 821 2608 138 - M +49 1606 749900 Jutta.Soell@autefa.com www.autefa.com

BRÜCKNER line for market leader in flame retardant coating

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Macclesfield, UK.

BRÜCKNER Technology Centre in Leonberg

Flameproofings Ltd., UK are amarket leader in the flame retardant coating of fabric for the upholstery and household textiles markets. The company is part of the John Holden group and a third generation family business, established over 50 years ago. They installed and commissioned recently a state of the art BRÜCKNER coating plant in its facility in Bolton, UK. The line was sold through the BRÜCKNER agent John Bradley in Macclesfield, UK.

Flameproofings Ltd., UK are a market leader in the flame retardant coating of fabric for the upholstery and household textiles markets. The company is part of the John Holden group and a third generation family business, established over 50 years ago. They installed and commissioned recently a state of the art BRÜCKNER coating plant in its facility in Bolton, UK. The line was sold through the BRÜCKNER agent John Bradley in

BRÜCKNER worked extensively with the Flameproofings team to define requirements and customize the design of the machine to ensure that all expectations were met or exceeded in all regards.

Essential requirements were best in class heat and temperature consistency across and throughout the dryer, non-stop batch changeover and exact application as well as control of the coating media according

70

May - June 2018

NEWS to the customer requirements. Besides the technical features Flameproofings had high expectations in reducing the energy consumption in support of its sustainability initiatives.

BRÜCKNER's design team, in conjunction with Flameproofings Ltd., developed a sophisticated line entry concept with two driven unwind stands, followed by a tension controlled roller accumulator to avoid length tensions and providing improved dimensional stability.

The coating line is equipped with a vertical pin chain system and has specially designed air plenums for homogenous air distribution to the coated fabric. The direct gas heating system, in combination with BRÜCKNER's staggered chamber arrangement and patented split-flow air circulation design, provide best available temperature consistency across the length and the width of the stenter dryer.

Before the order had been finalized, BRÜCKNER proofed its competence with coating trials at their technological centre in the company's headquarter in Leonberg, Germany.Regina Brückner, owner of the BRÜCKNER Group is satisfied: "We are very happy that the Technology Centre gives us the possibility to support our customers in the development of their products. Our technologists are assisting our customersat every time, giving them advice in trying out new products or new machine settings."

The new BRÜCKNER coating line is able to fulfill the high expectations of Flameproofings Ltd. concern-ing energy consumption, productivity and easy handling.

VerenaRuckh - Head of Advertising & Marketing Department

Experience Live Printing on ColorJet's Widest Width Digital Textile Printer at Heimtextil ◆ ◆

ColorJet launching FABJET GRAND a 3.2 metre width digital textile printer FABJET GRAND best suited for customised home furnishings textile segment Live demonstrations to be done on environmental friendly aqueous based Reactive inks

by launching a 3.2 metre digital printer at an affordable price to make the technology accessible to fabric process houses and print service providers.

While, ColorJet has installed several FABJET GRAND printers which use either Disperse or Pigment inks to print on cotton and polyester fabrics, this is the firsttime the company is showcasing the FABJET GRAND using Reactive inks, which are the best solution for direct printing on natural fabricsand provides the fabric with excellent brightness, wash and colourfastness.

The FABJET GRAND is especially targeted at the customised home furnishings textile segment, particularly for producers of home décor products like curtains, bed covers, table covers and sofa covers to directly print on cotton and polyester-based fabrics and uses environmental friendly aqueous based Pigment, Reactive or Disperse inks.

India's biggest manufacturer of digital printing technologies, ColorJet India will be launching and showcasing live demonstrations on Reactive ink of the FABJET GRAND, a 3.2 metre direct to fabric printer, which is the widest width printer, at Heimtextil which runs from June 27-29, 2018 at PragatiMaidan in New Delhi in hall no. 11, booth no. H-300.Earlier, there were hardly any players manufacturing or marketing 3.2 metre digital printers. ColorJet has now opened up this segment May - June 2018

The FABJET GRAND is equipped with advanced colour management engine and colour processing tools, which ensure faster processing of files leading to saving time, increasing productivity and also has user-friendly and easy-to-use colour controls to manage colours.

ColorJet is the only manufacturer that offers and sells machines as a solution, along with RIP colour manage71

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

NEWS ment, ink usage, ICC profile and training for application development or various applications so that a machine can be used across different markets.

Since ColorJet is a manufacturer based in India, the company offers always-on-time after-sales support and maintenance. ColorJet digital textile printers have been installed at several textile fabrics process houses across India and the world and has gained the trust of the user community, due to the robustness of its printers and also the excellent after sales service and support within 24 working hours.

ColorJet'scentralised customer care, team of engineers and well-maintained inventory levels of consumables or spares, with an all-India presence, ensures 100% customer satisfaction.

For more information please visit www.colorjetgroup.com Media Contacts: KareenaChoudhary Marketing Manager ColorJet India Ltd Cell: +91 99100-90306 Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.com Arun Rao Founder Taurus Communications India Cell: +91 98250-38518 Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

Comprehensive quality solutions for nonwovens Uster Technologies now covers fabric inspection as well as contamination control

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The market for nonwoven products is forecast to continue its growth trend, through both rising world population and the development of innovative products.

EDANA (the European Disposables and Nonwovens Association) also sees per capita consumption almost doubling to 1.62 kg in 2020, compared to 0.96 kg in 2009. Demand is especially strong in hygiene, personal care and medical applications - but these end-uses are among the most challenging for producers, with rigorous quality standards typically specifying zero tolerance for defects larger than 1 mm. So, manufacturers aiming to capitalize on this attractive business potential will need to adopt prudent strategies for the removal of contamination and assuring the quality levels their customers require.

This is the background to USTER's expansion of its technology range, with reliable control of contamination before the raw material reaches the fabric-making processes - and now with the ultimate safeguard of automated checking of the finished fabric at the final inspection stage. This is a comprehensive quality solution, ideal for spunlacing - the process most widely used for medical and hygiene products - but also effective for many other nonwovens manufacturing routes.

72

Quality managed, right from the start

Cotton batting

Effective detection and elimination of natural and synthetic contamination is best achieved right at the start of manufacturing, when the fiber raw material is in loose stock form. For this, the USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD fiber cleaning system applies sophisticated sensors and latest-technology spectroscopes to pinpoint even the smallest particles of foreign matter in the cotton or man-made fiber raw material.

All kind of synthetics and even the finest scraps of white polypropylene - otherwise difficult to pick out are efficiently removed with the USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD. Customers in super-sensitive application use two or even three USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD units in a row, for total confidence that the last and most minute fragment of contamination will be detected and eliminated.

May - June 2018

NEWS

Many common and troublesome defects in nonwovens production are unrelated to contamination problems, and can often be detected only at the final stage of fabric manufacture. These include overlap, undrawn filament and fiber bunching. Now, Uster Technologies is expanding the quality control options for the nonwovens industry with a two-stage approach: the USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION SHIELD deals with contaminants at fiber opening, as mentioned. Additionally, defects of other types can be eradicated at the end of the production line, following USTER's successful acquisition of EVS, as announced on April 25, 2018. The deal adds a range of fabric inspection solutions to USTER's quality control systems.

The EVS fabric inspection system is ideal for nonwoven applications, with its display of defect images showing type, size, and location in the fabric web.

The system draws a real-time defect map covering the full width or one slit - and real-time alarms are an important benefit to production staff. Software advantages include a video album to store and maintainquality records, and grading of inspected webs or slits according to predefined customer criteria. All reports can be exported to any computer in a common database format.

The typical configuration of the fabric inspection solution includes two camera lines, with both transmitted and reflective illuminations to cover the whole range of defects. Each inspection line is equipped with multiple cameras and covers the entire width of the web. The ideal number of cameras depends on the required resolution level of the defects.

Keeping vision in the focus Acquiring EVS and integrating the company's products into the USTER range is a move following USTER's strategic goals. USTER aims to offer the textile industry instruments and systems to manage and improve quality from fiber to fabric. EVS is a global leader in the field of automatic optical inspection in production and quality control of fabrics and webs, since 1992.

Innovative systems improve product quality and increase production efficiency and quality - for other applications as well as nonwovens - in hundreds of installations worldwide.

Nonwovens producers can see the complete offer of Uster Technologies at ANEX 2018 - one of the largest nonwovens fabric exhibitions - in Tokyo, Japan from June 6 to 8, 2018. The solution to eliminate defects at the beginning of the production line will be presented at the USTER booth 2041. The fabric defect inspection systems will be introduced at the booth 1806 representing EVS. In October at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 in Shanghai, EVS will be part of the USTER boothfor the first time.

Media contact: Edith Aepli On behalf of USTER Marketing Service Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland Direct +41 43 366 38 80 Mobile +41 79 916 02 91 / Fax +41 43 366 39 58 E-mail publicrelation@uster.com www.uster.com

Meet your potential clients, boosting your sales and marketing activities May - June 2018

73

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

USTER extends nonwovens coverage

NEWS

Dr. N.N.Mahapatra awarded the Fellowship from Royal Society of Chemistry (U.K.) FRSC(UK) Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, President, Colorant Ltd., Ahmedabad and a leading Technocrat, International Dyer, Author and Speaker have been admittedCouncil to The Royal Society of Chemistry as a FELLOW FRSC (UK).

His name is published in The Times (London) newspaper.

Dr. Mahapatra is a B.Sc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry from UDCT, (now ICT)Mumbai. He also holds M.Sc and Doctorate in Applied Chemistry from Utkal University,Orissa.He did his M.B.A from I.M.M., Kolkata.

Dr. Mahapatra is having 33 years of experience in textile industries in India and abroad. He has worked in all big textile houses like Birlas (both Aditya Birla and K K Birla group) Reliance, Raymond (Kenya) Churchgate Group (Nigeria), GSL ltd, (formerly Gujarat

Spinners Ltd.), LNJ Bhilwara (RSWM) Group and HindprakashLonsen Industries,Ahmedabad in various senior capacities.

In the year 2007 he was also awarded C Col FSDC (U.K.) and C Text FTI (Manchester). In the year 2008 he was awarded the F.T.A from the Textile Association of India & F.I.C from the Institution of Chemists,Kolkata. In the year 2009 he was awarded the F.I.E. from the Institution of Engineers (India). In the year 2017 he was awarded as the FAICof The American Institute of Chemists and same year awarded the Fellow of Indian Institute of Chemical Engineers.

He has implemented many new technologies which has given benefits to the Textile Industries. He has written six books on Textile Processing.

Dr. Mahapatra is the third person from Odisha and seventh person from Gujaratto get this prestigiousaward from The Royal Society of Chemistry (UK)

Italy to host ITMA 2023 ITMA returns to Milan following successful showing in 2015

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, today announced that ITMA will return to Milan, Italy, for its 19th edition. ITMA 2023 will be held at the Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre from 8 to 14 June 2023.

The decision to host ITMA 2023 in Milan was taken at the CEMATEX General Assembly held recently.

Mr Fritz P Mayer, President of CEMATEX, explained: "We received very positive feedback from ITMA 2015 exhibitors and visitors. Milan has excellent infrastructure for holding large-scale exhibitions like ITMA, which grosses over 200,000 square metres and attracts a global audience. It offers an extensive range of hospitality services and air connections to all parts of the world. Italy also has a large textile machinery and textile making industry."

Alessandro Zucchi, President of ACIMIT, the association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers, said: "We are very pleased that Milan has been selected to host ITMA 2023. We will work hard with all parties, including government agencies and local partners to ensure another successful show."

74

Fiera Milano, which also hosted ITMA 2015, beat two other short-listed bidders out of an initial list of 9 venues. "It is a great satisfaction for us to have brought the top international exhibition of machinery and technology for textiles and clothing back to Italy," said MrFabrizioCurci, Chief Executive Officer of Fiera Milano. "The trust the organisers have placed in us is an acknowledgement of the professional approach and quality services Fiera Milano is able to guarantee for international events hosted here."

ITMA - the world's largest textile and garment technology exhibition - has been held every four years since 1951. The next exhibition will be held from 20 to 26 June 2019 at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue, Spain.

Space at ITMA 2019 has sold out and new applicants are being put on a waiting list. The exhibition has attracted over 1,600 exhibitors to showcase their latest technologies and sustainable solutions for the entire textile and garment manufacturing value chain, as well as fibres, yarns and fabrics. Visit www.itma.com for more information.

May - June 2018

NEWS

Optimising productivity with Truetzschler T-DATA - JAY JAY MILLS Jay Jay Mills India Private Limited, Erode, Tamil Nadu, is one of the most modern mills in India. Their stateof-the-art spinning plant has 32,832 spindles, with 2 Truetzschler blow-room lines feeding 18 Truetzschler TC 10 cards. The average count processed is Ne 38 combed compact.

JAY JAY CARDING

efficiencies, breakdowns and maintenance schedules on a real time basis.

Expressing his satisfaction with T-DATA, Mr.Jaichand, Managing Director of Jay Jay Mills, said "In this era of industry 4.0, we wanted an automated solution to monitor and optimise the machine performance that will give us an edge in the market over competitors.

The T-DATA offered by Truetzschler along with its blow-room and cards precisely meets this requirement and I find it excellent and highly beneficial".

The T-DATA system can be accessed by a central PC kept in the office. To make it even more user- friendly, Truetzschler has created a new "My Production" app, which can be accessed 24x7 from anywhere in the world on a smart phone with an internet connection.

The app makes it possible to see at a glance if the machines are running smoothly - it uses a simple colour coding system: green indicator means "everything is ok", while a red indicator means "act now".

JAY JAY T Data

Until recently, the mill used to capture basic production data manually in shift diaries and registers. These data form the basis for all further calculations related to production, such as machine efficiency, etc., and hence any human error in noting down any production data would throw the entire calculation haywire. Further, capturing such data was a time consuming process.

To overcome this major handicap, the mill opted for Truetzschler T-DATA, a web-based monitoring system, for analysing the performance of their machines.

T-DATA monitors and tracks a whole range of machine performance parameters such as production, May - June 2018

Mr.Ekanath is very excited that he can now remain in touch with his department wherever he is, even when he is travelling. He is particularly happy with the TDATA's unique feature that enables sending email or SMS alerts to staff members for maintenance, machine malfunction or in case of any variation in quality compared to set points.

The mill is planning to have all its meetings with the top management henceforth using the real time information from T-DATA. T-DATA also allows users to export information from T-DATA to the user's ERP system through an interface for further processing, if required.

75

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr.Ekanath, Asst. General Manager at Jay Jay Mills, said that "We now optimise settings and reduce downtimes by monitoring trends in production and malfunctions using the T-Data. These production data are further analysed for a specific period of time. We can either choose between one of the ready-to-use standard profiles for production, maintenance and quality or easily create individual charts and tables with data of interest to us".

NEWS

SDC EC - 13th International Conference 'Innovations in textile technology and fashion towards Circular economy' The SDC EC has successfully organised the 13th International Conference on "Innovations in textile technology and fashion towards Circular economy" on the 06th June, 2018, Hotel Sahara Star, Mumbai.

The aim was to bring together and share innovation in the areas of chemical compliance, certification, fashion and business in the textile supply chain. More than 200 delegates from Process Houses, Brands & Retailers and Fashion & Technical Educational Institutions participated.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

SDC EC's Hon. Trustee Mr. Naresh Bhatt was the master of ceremony (MOC) of the day. In the inaugural session Hon. Chairman, Mr. V R Sai Ganesh formally welcomed all the guests, Speakers, Panellists and the delegates to the conference. He gave an overview of the theme of circular economy and briefly explained the programme for the day. The intention of involving companies for carrying out CSR activities was communicated to the audience. A minute's silence was observed in the memory of Prof. Ian Holme who was a true visionary for SDC in India and was instrumental in starting the SDC Mumbai Regional Chapter in 1999.

The Souvenir was released, this was followed by felicitations and presentation of Medals and Qualifications. The CCol qualification certificate was presented to DrRumaChakrabarti ASDC CCOL and ASDC certificate was presented to Mr J.K. Shrivastava ASDC. Dr. Graham Clayton, CEO, SDC UK shared his view and plan for 'SDC -Global Vision'. The SDC has now moved onto a concept of an online virtual learning 76

environment by conducting online courses which contain updated ASDC module material. The format of this is very much designed to meet the needs of todays' learners with mobile and 24/7 access, containing manageable material to enable students to 'earn and learn'.

Other material is also available via the Colour. Network site will enhance the Colour Education of many around the world. For example, a free course based on Colour Communication for Design Students taking part in the Design Competition. Colour Network enables SDC Members and colour interested individuals to focus on meeting and networking at such events. Emphasising on the Conference theme, he said for an organization or company to find smart solutions, it needs to look at three areas: people, operations and technology. The latter is often seen as smart solutions alone. Technology can be exciting and ground breaking. We must remember however that technology alone achieves very little, if anything, as it is only when technology works for people in making improved operations that smart solutions work and work profitably.

Chief Guest of the event Mr. Manish Mandhana, Joint Managing Director, Mandhana Industries Ltd, addressed the audience. He talked about the harmful impact of garment manufacturing and discharge of effluents in environment. He emphasized on waste management, audits, unions, committees, safe working environment, facilities to workers in industries and our responsibilities as a citizen. He also talked about CSR aspects of business and his experiences. He shared the work culture of his company and 'Being Human Foundation' with a video on Being Human.

May - June 2018

NEWS

Mr. Rahul Bhajekar explained the topic saying that Materials include chemical certification which is a new concept that required site inspection for chemical factories. Legislation were needed regarding liquid waste and solid waste, as well as for fiber manufacturing units. Sustainability from production to disposal was important.

Dr. Siva was of the opinion that a more systematic approach to management sustainability Certification for mills fiber manufacturing will lead to less fatigue. He emphasized on the large gaps in certification on sustainability- gap in production for domestic and export markets.

Indian companies need to change mindset- rather than doing what is expected by certain countries; it should take initiative and be self-motivated for adopting legislation, certification and sustainability. Need to be proactive and not only reactive to situations. This would need change in academic courses and syllabi; training and education is the biggest challenge. Mr. Aich talked about the current scenario of effluent discharge by textile industries, REACH norms are now for both domestic and export brands in India. He emphasized on GOTS approved chemical processing for larger manufacturers for chemicals and enzymes.

May - June 2018

Testing based approach relies only on testing the end product. Input Stream Management is a proactive approach and the only efficient way to ensure safe and sustainable production. Dr. John started with current status of Maharastra's industry pollution. He told that many companies in Taloja were given show cause notice for closure. Now it's high time to upgrade this industry, CTP, ground water pollution levels are raising and by upgrading textile companies. He also told about companies which are recycling water for manufacturing.

He emphasized on training people about raw material management, chemical treatment, water recycling and stringent policies can help in sustainable manufacturing. Mr. Bhajekar concluded the discussion with positive note that Indian industries certifications are at their teenage years, if pharma companies can do it why not textile companies?

This was followed by a second Panel Discussion on Dyes & Chemicals Compliance - Way forward was moderated by Mr Prasad Pant, Director-South AsiaZero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC).The panel members were Dr. NareshTyagi, Chief Sustainability Officer-Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd, Dr. Pankaj Desai, Head R&D-Colourtex Industries (P) Ltd, Dr. GVG Rao, President-Colors Division Atul Ltd; Dr. Yoram Benjamin, Technical Head-Jay Chemical Industries Ltd, Mr. Sanjay Harane Sr. Vice President (Operation) - Nagreeka Exports Ltd. Dr. GVG Rao gave an overview of energy and process sustainability projects implemented by Atul for Vat, Sulphur black and other dyes and the on-going 77

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

At the end of the inaugural session, Dr. Suman Mundkur, Hon. Secretary, SDC EC proposed vote of thanks and acknowledged the sponsors' and patrons of the conference with mementoes. The conference was supported by M/s CHT India (P) Ltd, M/s Bluesign Technologies ag, M/s X-Rite India (P) Ltd, M/s Zenitex, M/s Colourtex Industries (P) Ltd, M/s Atul Ltd, M/s ATE (P) Ltd., M/s Indian Chemical Industries and M/ s Ramp Impex. Support from M/s Archroma India (P) Ltd, M/s Mirachem Industries, M/s Netflex towards CSR activities was acknowledged.

He talked of the challenges in reducing the number of washes thus reducing water consumption in dyeing.

Water-less dyeing is already in practice for nylon and polyester but there is a need to reduce the water consumption during dyeing cotton. Effluents produced by printing paste, recycling of polyurethanes used as blend in many garments spandex/lycra also contribute in increasing the amount of effluents and how eco-friendly/ Energy consumption certification can help in reducing the production of effluents. It was important to check production at every stage. Mr. Pote talked about sustainability which includes People (safety of workers and consumers), Environment (effluent and waste) and Resources (used in production). Textiles is the second largest polluting industry. The manufacturer of textiles, dyes and auxiliaries have to ensure that there is no negative impact on people, environment and resources.

NEWS environmental sustainability projects. Valorisation of byproducts is the key for success. He explained using the example of PFC free durable water repellent, the importance of public awareness and regulations for commercial success of environmental friendly chemistry.

Finally indicated the need for unified certification system in textile industry, as different brands have different eco-textile labelling standards - the testing and compliance of which are adding cost to the manufacturer. Dr. Benjamin elaborated on the need for correct understanding of restricted substances list by both dyes and chemical manufacturers and textile processors to differentiate between complete usage ban and limits of tolerance for certain inputs. Mr.Pankaj Desai suggested that we follow the best managements of inputs and processes, reduce the use of heavy metals during production which will help in reducing the quality of ground water. He quoted an example of managing liquid and solid waste. Based on requirements of the company different methods, Eco-norms and evaluation techniques should be followed to reduce the harmful impact of hazardous chemicals to environment. Mr. Sanjay Harane spoke on Chemical compliance, cost, and input chemical control by CMS-i.e., Chemical Management System, and Reduction of non-productive outputs (NPO's) i.e., dyes, use of resources, chemical consumption, missing systems, low priorities, and lack of knowledge.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

He talked about CMS - policies and practices, chemical storage and handling and waste management, Product Stewardship Program, sustainable design of industry. Product Design Stewardship is relation with reduction in pollution. It helps in reducing power and salt, fuel and air consumption. Dr.NareshTyagi talked about brands and retails. He told that his company has 14 brands and produces 60 million garments annually; his company is also into export. They are not using Azo dyes for dyeing processes. He emphasized on sustainable chain between manufacturers-suppliers-consumers. His company is also into waste water management, wet processing etc., for which they have audits.

An interesting question that came up from the audience was: If requirement for certification is not from consumers. Is it required for company to get certification? All panel members unanimously agreed that care certification is required for end use product. Better to have certification. Moderator Mr Prasad Pant concluded with an example that just as there are many languages, many cultures, and many religions hence it is not possible to have one certification.

A technical presentation on Circular Economy: Innova78

tions in Design and supply chain management by Mr Felix A. K Pinto - Sales Director, South Asia, South East Asia & ANZ, X Rite India Pvt. Ltd. He highlighted the importance of colour and helping the brands in selecting the right color. He mentioned the challenges in the production process and total appearance capture system that consist of camera that can scan the object from every angle, helps in visualizing the product. He introduced the Pantone cloud- its tools and concept of 3-D object making that can reduce the cycle of prototype and sampling in garment industry that can help in reducing waste. He concluded saying that for sustainable production 3-D object making can help in reducing the steps of making prototypes and wastage of resources.

A Panel Discussion on Innovative fashion - towards circular economy followed. This was moderated by Dr.ElaDedhia, Associate Professor and Head - Department of Textiles and Fashion Technology, College of Home Science NirmalaNiketan. The Panel Members were Mr. Viral Desai, CEO, Zenitex; Ms Krishna Mehta, Creative Director, Brand 'Krishna Mehta'; MsGeetaCastelino- Educationist and Consulting Psychologist; Mr.PuneetDudeja, Sales Director-South Asia, WGSN. Dr. Dedhia introduced the topic by saying traditionally Indians used sustainable practices by hand-me-downs, reuse and recycling of garments, fabrics and products - leading to circular economy.

Ms Krishna Mehta showed how Innovative FashionTowards Circular Economy can be achieved in relation to garment development. She shared some of her creations from waste or discarded fabric swatches like curtains, dresses etc. She also explained about sustainability in relation to fast fashion.

Ms. Geeta Castelino stressed the importance of training and educating the various stakeholders on sustainability. It was important to consider safety and interests of workers in mills and industries Mr. Viral talked about his experiences as entrepreneur, Health campaigns, CSR activities of his company, Green India concept that contribute to help sustain fashion. There was a stress on fashion education through improvement in curriculum. He also spoke on the importance of teaching farmers about sustainable farming, women empowerment programs, working with NGO's, training programs etc. Mr. Puneet talked about saving resources, recycling of products, working on concept of re-usability of product. He gave example of Mudd jeans of May - June 2018

NEWS Netherlands and Korean company where they marketed used denims and home furnishings after finishing them- recycling them. The session concluded with the importance of re- materialisation of fabrics and garments.

system, small processes and innovative use of water.

Mr. Sheikh talked about sustainable business opportunity, global environment, investments, vision of individual, mass customization and ways of sustainable designing of products.

The next Panel Discussion Session was on Sustainable Business Strategies - Way forward, which was moderated by Mr. G. V. Aras, Director, Textile Engineering Group, ATE Pvt. Ltd. The Panel Members were Dr. V. G. Habbu, Senior Vice President, Reliance Industries Ltd.; Mr. Suketu Shah, President and Business Head, Mafatlal Industries Ltd.; Mr. Sandeep Mehta, Textile Technocrat, S N M Consultants (P) Ltd.; Mr. Amir Shiekh - Gherzi Consulting Engineers (P) Ltd. Dr.ParasuVeeraUppara, Vice President and Head of Technology and Business Development, Speciality Chemicals, United Phosphorous Ltd.

Mr. Mehta talked about digital printing in India still in its growing phase at 15%, business model, selling and printing, inventory control, Surat textile market, E-commerce, Example of Arvind Mills that they have separate division for Flex and Banner printing and development, affordable machineries, etc. On innovative ideas in business,

Dr. Habbu explained the importance of packaging in every sphere. He went on to explain the virtues of plastics packaging, but how overuse of packaging is harming the nature. He talked about polyester and its versatility. He also gave example of PET bottle as being most sustainable due to its lowest eco-footprint.

Although nobody knows how long it actually takes for plastics/PET bottles to degrade alternatives like glass and metal also take many centuries to degrade. He also explained how synthetic polymers like PET/polyester would actually come to the rescue of mankind as the global population marches towards an increasing trend by relieving the stress on land and water. Mr. Shah talked about sustainability in relation to denim production. Denim production is not eco-friendly because of use of non-soluble dye, use of foam dyeing techniques, example of H&M brand for recycling of its products, chemical certification from GOTS, water consumption in producing 1 pair of jeans, changes in denim production, etc. He shared his knowledge on present technologies used in denim production for which industries have denim shredding machine which converts denims into fiber form and can re-manufactured into denims. Mr. Uppara talked about value chain, indigo denim dyes, production of indigo in India, sourcing dyes from China, need for Indian Indigo and dye companies, concept of green chemistry i.e. zero water May - June 2018

The SDC EC was exploring the idea to support the textile computation industry with their CSR activity for one year. A group of trustees including Mr. Anjani Prasad, Mr. V. R. Sai Ganesh, Ms. Raju Bhatia along with renowned expert Ms. GeetaCastelino. A keen interest by esteemed companies like M/s Archroma and M/s Mirachem has been encouraging.

The SDC India will focus on implementation of CSR as a core activity in future.

79

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Mr. G. V. Aras introduced and explained the relevance of the topic and the difference between sustainability and sustainable development. Mr. Aras also introduced the new concept of 'Triple bottom line' for measuring the performance of the corporate on financial, social and environmental basis.

Dr. Habbu gave examples of how manufacturers of US/Europe are outsourcing manufacturing of goods, change in consumer behaviours and increase in demand for micro-runs. In relation to micro fiber issues, the industry currently is not a linear economy. Denim processes need to save water and minimum use of hazardous chemicals in production, there is a need to share and learn concept between the industries. On the question of potential disruptions to the business by moderator Mr. Aras, the panellists sighted various likely areas in which technological, ecological and regulatory disruptions would take place.

NEWS

VDMA members successfully met Indian Textiles and Nonwovens German textile machinery ranks first India is a very important market for the German textile machinery industry, with an export of more than •255 million (+ 8 %) in 2017. Many German machinery builders have longstandingrelations with Indian customers and quite a number of them also provide production plants and trainingcentres in India. Not surprisingly, about 370 decision-makers and experts from the textile and nonwoven related industry attended the VDMA conference and B2B event called "German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens" in Mumbai on 15-16 May 2018.

labor in industrial regions. The major cutting-edge topics of the conference program were as follows: ◆ ◆ ◆

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

◆

According to a survey,both the event and German textile machinery engineering received the highest marks among the visitors.About 57 % of the visitors statedvery good and 38 % good experience with machines and components from German suppliers.The performance and service promise as well as the high-quality standards have made German machine suppliers as most reliable partners in India and other countries. This positive result hasby far not been reached by any other manufacturingnation from Europe or Asia. Asked for future processes, investments in technical textiles and/ or nonwoven production seem to be the most favorite sectors in India.Around 74 % of the visitors plan to expand their production capacities with new machines and components whereas 26 % intend to replaceold machinery by new machines and components. High productivity, after-sales service, end-product quality, low operating and acquisition costs are the decisive machine procurement criteria in this order. The investments plans are based on a positive business and investment outlook in India. 45 % of the visitors surveyed plan to invest more than 10 % within the next 12 months and 30 % up to 10 %. 25 % of the visitors expect a sales increase by more than 10 % for the next 12 months and 60 % anticipate a sales growth of up to 10%.

Considering this positive business climate and the high interest from the Indian industry, the 32 well-known VDMA members participated in the conference have good chances to offer the right technologies and to place new orders. Thepresented technology topics along the entire textile value chain will help the Indian industry to fulfill their expansion plans and to meet the challenges such as rising salary costs and shortage of 80

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Higher profits throughout the entire textile value chain Energy, material, water and dyestuff savings for an environmentally friendly production New applications such as technical textiles, nonwovens(e. g. hygiene products, geotextiles for the infrastructure) or home textiles (e. g. terry towels) Automation, industry 4.0, digital communication and smart factory solutions Quality improvementse. g. with measurement and control systems Lower investment costs in spinning preparation with integrated draw frames New technologies to combine spinning and knitting Smart textiles and added value products e. g. with embroidery machines

Whereas the event on 15-16 May 2018 focused on customers, a training session at the prestigious Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute VJTI in Mumbai on 17 May 2018 was addressed to future engineers. More than 220 textile manufacturing and mechanical engineering students followed the technical presentations.

The VDMA's contribution to improve the education of future customers and partners was very much appreciated.The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA India Office cordially thank all media partners and supporting Associationsinvolved (see www.germantech-indiantextile.de). In 2018, the Association's next sales supporting activities take place in Belarus, Brazil, Uzbekistan, Iran, China and Egypt.

Participating VDMA member companies in India: A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, ANDRITZ Kuesters, Autefa Solutions, Benninger Zell, Brueckner Textile Technologies, DILO Systems + TEMAFA, Lindauer Dornier, Erbatech, Erhardt + Leimer, Festo, GrozBeckert, Interspare, IQ-SPS, Karl Mayer, Küsters Textile, Lenze Mechatronics, Mahlo, Mayer & Cie., Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, Oerlikon Textile, Reseda Binder, Saurer, Sedo Treepoint, SETEX Schermuly textile computer, Texpa Maschinenbau, Thies May - June 2018

NEWS Textilmaschinen, Truetzschler, Truetzschler Nonwoven & Man-Made Fibers, WEKO Weitmann & Konrad, Welker Vakuum, ZSK Stickmaschinen.

VDMA Mechanical Engineering Industry Association With more than 3,200 members, the VDMA is the largest network organization for mechanical engineering in Europe. The association represents the common economic, technological and scientific interests of this diverse industry.

Constantly looking to the future has been a key characteristic of the VDMA for over 125 years. The VDMA was founded in November 1892 and is the most important voice for the mechanical engineering industry today. It represents the issues of the mechanical and plant engineering sector in Germany and Europe. It successfully accompanies its members in global markets. Its technical expertise, industry knowledge and straightforward positioning make it a recognized and valued point of contact for companies as well as the general public, science, administration and policy makers.

Textile Machinery Association The roundabout 120 textile technology manufacturers organised within the VDMA Textile Machinery Association represent approximately 95 % of Germany's

total production volume in this field. The main activities of the Textile Machinery Association are economic and technical representation of the branch's interests, exchange of experiences as well as services such as statistics, observation of significant markets and reporting on the situation in the textile industry throughout the world. In addition, the Association supports the world's largest international textile machinery exhibition ITMA (June 20 - 26, 2019, Barcelona, Spain, www.itma.com). German technology is also presented during the VDMA conferences, B2B meetings and business delegations worldwide to relevant stakeholders from the textile and nonwoven industry. For more information, please visit https://txm.vdma.org. Most of the companies are medium-sized. In 2017, the branch produced textile machinery and accessories worth around 3.5 billion euros.

View of the Audience - Very well-received VDMA conference and B2B in Mumbai

A crystal replica of Truetzschler blow-room machinery, was handed over by Dr. Michael Schuerenkraemer, Managing Partner of Truetzschler, Germany, to Mr. S. ShanmugaSundaram, President, Himatsingka Linens.

Also present during the occasion were Mr. Joseph Thomson, CEO, Truetzschler India, Dr. ChristofSoest, CTO, Truetzschler, Germany, Mr. A Suresh, Spinning Business Head of A.T.E., and Mr. Ashish Sharma, Vice-President, Truetzschler India.

L to R : Mr. A. Suresh, Mr. Thomson, Dr. Shueren kraemer, Mr. Shanmuga Sundaram, Dr. Soest, Mr. Ashish Sharma and Mr. Surojit Dutta, GM of the unit.

Texttreasure "Nature should be idealised not copied."

- Owen Jones Classics

May - June 2018

81

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Crystal Replica of Truetzchler receiving by Mr. S. Shanmuga Sundaram

NEWS

ICT Textile Department, flying high India's Flag of performance in Ethiopia

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

It was indeed a matter of pride for Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology of Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, when it signed Twining Partnership Programme on 24thJuly 2014.

This historical development was aimed at building the capacity of finishing directorate's personnel from Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute (ETIDI), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and technically moving further this department of ETIDI towards achieving international standards in the areas of Training, Consulting and Research, so that it would be able to serve the interests of the Finishing Technology (Wet Processing) sector in Ethiopia. The first official announcement of this programme was done during the awareness Seminar for ETIDI Technical staff and stake holders from Industry and Universities all over Ethiopia, which was held in November 2014 in Addis Ababa in presence of Ethiopian Govt. Authorities and Indian High Commissioner. The participants were made aware of importance of this partnership and the benefits that it would accrue for the Ethiopian textile sector. For Elite Status Institute like ICT, it was also a major mile-stone in its history where in Textile Department with which ICT (then UDCT)was in fact born 84 years ago, had crossed the national borders in accepting the challenge of capacitating the human resources of an apex Institute of Ethiopia. Over the period, three times the Industry Minister of Ethiopia visited ICT, which shows the importance of this programme for Ethiopia and tremendous potential it had for employment generation as well as earning of most valuable Foreign exchange through Exports. Needless to mention, any efforts in building the capacity of ETIDI personnel as well as Ethiopian Textile Industry technicians and University Teachers and students would go long way in laying the foundations of prosperity for that country.

To begin with, the Gap analysis exercise was carried out by ICT Textile Department Faculty and some Textile Experts and various Gaps in ETIDI Finishing Directorate, Textile Industry all over Ethiopia and Textile Education level in Universities in Ethiopia were clearly defined and based on the same, a road map for capacity development of ETIDI personnel was prepared.

The mutually agreed programme for three years, worth over US $2million practically got initiated when five member ICT team of Industry Experts started functioning from ETIDI head quarters in Addis Ababa from 82

15th January 2015.

The programme had five different identified elements of this road map of capacity building.

1. Under System Development in the Finishing Directorate some of the measures taken included development of Organogram of the personnel, their clearly defined TORs and flow of information, standardization of various formats, writing of reports and preparation of technical Manuals and data base on subjects of wet processing. This also gave rise to identification of various staffs as per their expected functions and planning of their Higher Education programme.

2. One of the most valued contributions of this programme has been Hand holding support provided to over 20 Textile Mills all over Ethiopia, by the stationed staff of ICT almost 24/7 for three years. It was very well received by the industry which is reflected in their magnanimous appreciation of ICT staff at various forums time and again. The resident staff of ICT also conducted need based technical training of the ETIDI staff as well as University and Polytechnic students when they were not in the Industry.

3. Third element which met most glaring success of this partnership, was the Higher Education of ETIDI staff and in all 14 students have finished their two year M Tech programme in ICT Mumbai Campus and returned back to support their textile Industry. The research topics which they chose had direct relevance on Ethiopian Textile sector. One more staff doing Doctoral degree will return back in January 2019.

4. The fourth element was devoted to Training at various levels with different forms. A number of weeklong refresher courses were held in basic Textile Chemistry and Fibre science by the Faculty of Textile Department. Training in Indian Textile Industry of selected ETIDI staff for 8 weeks duration was also held to equip them with confidence of attending industrial problems on the shop-floor in addition to 2 weeks Management training to executives of various departments of ETIDI in India. Other activities included Lectures in Universities and their curriculum development.

5. The final element of this programme was Net working and Outreach and under this heading more than 38 monthly newsletters were published; 5 Technical May - June 2018

NEWS seminars and 2 Awareness seminars were held which were largely attended by participants from Textile Industry and Universities along with ETIDI staff. ICT signed three MOUs with three different Ethiopian Universities for Academic and research Cooperation.

count on the expertise of ICT and their devotion to the programme. He appreciated exceptional level of cooperation, understanding, dedication to the work and responsibility on the part of ICT, because of which ETIDI would always remain indebted to ICT.

The final steering committee meeting for this programme took place recently on 29th July 2018 when State Industry Minister of Ethiopia Chairing this meeting said, this Porgramme with ICT has been most successful twining programme their government so far has had. He was extremely happy with the splendid outcome of the partnership and hoped that although this 3 year programme came to successful completion, ETIDI will continue to associate with Textile Department of ICT in different forms and it does rely and

It is so amazing to remember that during the beginning of the programme director general of ETIDI had said that ICT at the end of this programme should leave its foot prints on Ethiopian soil. We are delighted to mention that we have 15 Ethiopian alumni of ICT and one of them has taken over as a Director, of Finishing Directorate of ETIDI after finishing his M. Tech. from ICT. Indeed we have kept India's Flag of performance flying high and left our foot prints on Ethiopian soil.

Members of steering committee meeting with State Minister for Industries, His Excellency Ato Bogale Fekele (5th from left to right)

74th All India Textile Conference

Theme : Global Textiles - The Way Forward Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Hotsed by

The Textile Association (India) - South India Unit 15 & 16th Decembaer, 2018 Contribute by way of Sponsoring, Advertisements & Enrolling Delegates

Contact: Mr. G. T. Bharath The Textile Association (India) - South India Unit Mob.: + 91- 8825721885 / Website:www.textileassociationindia.org May - June 2018

83

FORTHCOMING EVENTS INDIA GENTEX 2018 - Global Business Connect South Asia's Exclusive Textile Show Date : 29th to 31st August, 2018 Venue : Sri Lanka Exhibition and Convention Center, Colombo, Sri Lanka Contact : GBC India Expositions Pvt. Ltd. 30A, Akruti Elegance, 90 Feet Road, Gavanpada, Mulund (E), Mumbai - 400 081, India Tel. : +91-9029019100 E-mail : gentexfair@gbcindiaexpo.com Website : www.gbcindiaexpo.com 14th International Conference on Apparel & Home Textiles (ICAHT 2018) Date: 08th September, 2018 Venue: India Habitat Centre, New Delhi Contact: Mr. R.C. Kesar, Conference Chairman Okhla Garment & Textile Cluster (Secretariat) B-24/1, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-II, New Delhi - 110020 India Tel. : 011-4160 9550 E-mail : ogtc@airtelmail.in, ogtc@ogtc.in Website : www.ogtc.in

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit organizes Seminar on "Recent Trends in Fabric Forming" Date : 08th September, 2018 Venue : HotelFortune Park Galaxy, Doffodil Hall, G.I.D.C., Vapi, Gujarat Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convener The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit Amar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Near Maher Hall.

86, College Lane, Off Gokhale Road, Portuguese, Church, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 Tel. : 022-24328044, 24307702, Fax: 022-24307706 E-mail : taimubaiunit@gmail.com, taimu@mtnl.net.in, Website : www.textileassociationindia.com SOURCE INDIA 2018 Date : 21st to 23rd September, 2018 Venue : Surat International Exhibition & convention Centre, Surat, Gujarat, India Organizer : The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promo tion Council (SRTEPC) ReshamBhavan, 78, Veer Nariman Road, Mumbai - 400020.

E-mail : ed@srtepc.in Website : http://sourceindia.srtepc.in, http://www.srtepc.in

3rd Edition - TEMTECH - 2018 Date : 22th to 24th September, 2018 Venue : Bhilwara, Rajasthan, India Organizer : MIRROR Events Management Mirror House, D-297/2, Near Pannadhai Circle, Azad Nagar, Bhilwara, Rajasrthan, India Contact : Mr. Govind Sharma / Mr. SharadTandon Tel.: 01482-243077, Cell No. : 9829085976 / 9322260941 E-mail : mirror.gns@gmail.com/ stanton@stondanconsulting.com 6th China Homelife India 2018 Date : 17th to 19th December, 2018 Venue : Hall No. 1, 2 & 3, Bombay Exhibition Centre, W. E. Highway, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, India Contact : MCO-Winmark Exhibitions Private Limited B-702, Dheeraj Heritage Residency - 1 Shastri Nagar, Linking Road Extn., Santacruz (W) Mumbai - 400 054 India M.: 9820660107, 9869150231 E-mail : devisha.winmark@gmail.com The Textile Association (India) - Delhi Unit presents Textile Summit - 2018 Theme: Road Map for "The Textile Industry - 2030" Date : 17th November, 2018 Venue : PHD House, August Kranti Marg, New Delhi, India Contact : D. K. Singh, President / Ritesh Gupta, Chairman The Textile Association (India) - Delhi Unit 401, Gagan Deep Building, 12, Rajendra Place, New Delhi, Tel. : 011-25750224, 49537476 Mob : +91-9867312834 E-mail : info@tai-delhi.com, taidelhi@yahoo.com Website : www.tai-delhi.com ABROAD ITMA 2019 - Largest International Textile and Garment Technology Exhibition Date : 20th to 26th June, 2019 Venue : FIRA CE Barcelona Gran Via, Barcelona, Spain Contact : Daphne Poon Marketing Communications Director ITMA Services Pte Ltd. 73 Ubi Road 1, #08-48 Oxley BizHub, Singapore 408733 Tel. : (65) 6849 9362 M: (65) 94789543 E-mail : Pdaphnepoon@itma.com Website : www.itma.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.

84

May - June 2018