TEXtalks International:February-March 2021 by TEXtalks International

February/March 2021

Engineering Meets Process Knowledge

Mazhar Hussain Mirza MMirza@cotton.org

Pakistan's exports surpassed $2.1 billion in January 2021; Cotton production down, Government is planting cannabis crops Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Dr Sharjeel Abid Noor Amjad Dr Shagufta Riaz Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Memoona Karim Abdul Haseeb Layouts Faizan Khan Marketing Incharge Tanveer Ahmed Address C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

According to the report of East Asian economies drive global trade recovery, Pakistan's exports of textile products increased 7.8% in dollar terms in the first seven months of FY21 over the same period of the previous year. Exports of knitwear, bed wear, and towels grew by more than 16%. Interestingly, the exports of cotton cloth declined 7.7%. Exports of leather manufactures showed a growth of 6.4%, driven by exports of leather gloves. On the other hand, textile machinery imports increased by 28.2%, while office machinery rose by 42.4%. Furthermore, there is an increase in imports of raw cotton and synthetic fiber, indicating an increase in the textile sector activity. The government is also moving in the right direction. The State Bank of Pakistan (SBP) facilitates startups, fintech, and exports in the right direction. Furthermore, there is a need to upgrade machinery and equipment to ensure better competitiveness of domestic producers. The value added products of knitwear, bedwear, towel and readymade garments have witnessed a decline of 26.14, 7.35, 11.36 and 0.42 percent respectively in February 2021 compared to January 2021. The rising volume of export of cotton yarn had deteriorated apparel sector’s growth as the country continued to face energy shortage. The government should also

abolish the existing five percent customs duty on import of cotton yarn below 40 single count. Cotton yarn prices surged 40 percent, but even at that exorbitant rate it was unavailable on the local market. The situation has also compelled the exporters not to take new orders and for that reason such export orders meant for Pakistan shall be diverted to other regional countries. The dollar had depreciated against the rupee by seven percent, which was also a matter of concern for the exporters as the situation might lead to a liquidity crunch. The availability of the cotton yarn in the local market is already very low which poses as a huge challenge for the apparel sector. In these circumstances, a 35.86 recorded increase in the cotton yarn export is making a layer of panic go through the apparel makers. These apparel makers are already seeking a ban on cotton yarn export as this premium raw material should be utilized by Pakistan to manufacture high value added products like garments which will in turn in earning foreign exchange. In an effort to revive cotton production, the government has taken a new route which is cannabis production. Compared to cotton, cannabis can produce crops three times the size of cotton per acre and has a faster growing-time averaging at 90 to 100 days as compared to 150 to 180 days for cotton.

February/March 2021

TEXNews

Cover Story Temsan Air Engineering & Industrial Machinery

Corporate Highlights

Articles Role of Education in the Revival Pakistan’s Textile Industry by Professor Dr Tahir Shah

Reports The Pandemic Era and Innovations in Knitting

Sustainability was the highlights of Taipei Fashion Week

What’s New

TEXEvents

February/March 2021

Stewardship is about taking care of something that we do not own. Good water stewards recognise the need for collective responses to the complex challenges facing the water resources we all rely on. US Group reported, 254,356m3 of water savings in 2020 through the Alliance for Water Stewardship Standard See at page 32

February/March 2021

Overview of Pakistan’s Textile Industry in the midst of Corona Pandemic With the unexpected arrival of the Pandemic that put a pause on everything, Pakistan’s textile industry faced some challenges but quickly recovered and showed sign of growth. However, there is also a fluctuation over the periods as the export sector saw a big shift. According to the statistics given by State Bank of Pakistan (SBP) textile exports in 2020 declined to USD 12,782,608 thousand from USD 13,580,585 thousand in 2019. This decline is due to a number of reasons such as fiscal and monetary policy at federal level, order cancellations and shipment delays amid pandemic-led global lockdowns as 84% of the enterprises were not operational during Covid-19. • The first of the major factors that caused this downfall of low revenue generation was the reduction in export orders followed by disruption in logistics, shift in consumer demand and producer supply along with upstream and downstream chain distribution. • The second factor was the devaluation of maintaining the cashflow which brought in financial challenges. • The third factor was weaker integration and business to business (B2B) connect thus hindering the local value chain. The industry worked efficiently and adapted quickly with the situation by allowing work from home for the employees during the temporary shut-down as major measures. Moreover, quick on their feet in innovation, factories started manufacturing new products that were need of the hour such as KN95 masks and Personal Protective Equipments (PPEs) to the exporting

partners. Online business portals were also being utilized to manage the the local demand and supply framework. By taking these quick measures, the companies were able to obtain the key costs for Costs such as rents, salaries, insurances, premiums and wages. Now that the situation seems to be almost in control, the policies placed by the government that showed effectiveness and contributed in the recovery should be made permanent to reap long term benefits. Secondly, reduction in compliance costs should be stressed upon by the government as these include borrowing from banks, border compliance and tax related compliance. Lastly, Third, government should bring in exemption on import items which are of primary use in manufacturing the product. The start of the year 2021 is a good one for Pakistan as exports in the first seven months of FY21 increased 5.53% over the previous period's value. According to the recently published summary on trade by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS). According to a World Trade Organisation (WTO) statement titled "World trade volume rallies in the third quarter after Covid-19 shock", the third quarter of 2020 showed a recovery in global trade as the volume of business increased 11.6% compared to the second quarter of 2020. Although the figures were lower than the values reported in December 2020, the year-on-year growth rate of exports was impressive, at 8.11%. On the other hand, imports too continued to increase year-on-year, at 14.85%.

February/March 2021

The new textile policy to be finalized soon: Asad Umar The textile industry is the backbone of Pakistan's GDP. The textile industry has been the focus of every Government. Textile Sector employs about 45% of the total Labor force in the country. The revival of the textile industry in the era of the current Government is exceptional. The stakeholders are curious about the upcoming textile policy, which could have a considerable impact on exports. Asad Umar, Minister for Planning and Development, said at a briefing of business people and industrialists in Faisalabad that a new textile policy is being formulated, which will be finalized soon. The textile policy will undoubtedly help the country maintain the current tempo, is nearing completion. Talking about his meeting with Faisalabad Industrial Estate Development and Management Company (FIEDMC) officials, he said it centered on issues hampering work in the Allama Iqbal Industrial Estate. He underlined that the Government was focusing on strengthening the manufacturing sector with Chinese cooperation in the second phase of the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC). Umar requested FCCI President Hafiz Ihtasham Javed to prepare a comprehensive report on the business community's problems and their solutions to be incorporated into the budget for the next fiscal year. Speaking on occasion, Javed said that if electricity and gas subsidies were withdrawn, the industrialists would lose their competitive edge in the international market.

Pakistan lands an enhanced position on World Bank ease of doing business index As per World Bank’s latest rankings on ease of doing business for 2020, Pakistan has improved its position by 28 points from 136 to 108 which is an unprecedented improvement, report said. After this integration, SECP’s eServices is offering one window facility for company registration with FBR (NTN registration), EOBI, provincial employees social security institutions (PESSI/SESSI), Labor Department and Excise and Taxation Department of Punjab and Sindh. This improvement is primarily due to integration of SECP e-Services with the Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) and the Employees Old Age Benefits Institution (EOBI) at the Federal level and with Business Registration portals of Punjab and Sindh at the Provincial level. As a result of this reform, number of procedures to start a business as recorded in the Doing Business Report 2020 have been reduced from 10 to 5 and Pakistan has been able to ranked at first in South Asia and 6th among the top ten reformers globally. The administrative powers under the STA relating to operationalization of the STR have been entrusted to the Commission through the Financial Institutions (Secured Transactions) (Amendment) Ordinance, 2020. The SECP, with financial support from DFID (UK), has launched the STR on April 30, 2020. February/March 2021

Next, Byford & Advance Denim join US Cotton Trust Protocol Next and Byford are renowned brands of UK. The brands sign up to US Cotton Trust Protocol that will help them to source all cotton from responsible sources by 2025. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol provides fashion brands and retailers with the critical information they need to show the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is responsibly grown. It works by providing member brands with verified data on the sustainability practices used on U.S. cotton farms, with participating growers collecting data in six key areas of sustainability: water use, greenhouse gas emissions, energy use, soil carbon, soil loss, and land use efficiency. Byford, founded in Leicester, UK with its origins dating back the early 20th century, is dedicated to quality garments, reflecting a commitment to high standards of design and craftsmanship. Today, the brand has more than 1,500 sales points in over 20 markets around the world. Byford said that “By working with them, we are now able to monitor and track sustainability improvements, including greenhouse gas emissions. Our direction as a brand is to use more authentic and ethically sourced fabrics and the Trust Protocol gives us confidence the cotton we purchase is from a more sustainable source.” Next’s 2025 target to source 100% of its main raw materials through known, responsible or certified routes means that it will only use cotton produced in line with key sustainability performance indicators. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol underpins and verifies sustainability progress through sophisticated

data collection and independent third-party verification. Advance Denim, one of the top three Chinese denim manufacturers, became a U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol member – noting that it joined because it wanted to source more sustainable fiber through this sustainability initiative. Advance Denim joins more than 200 other Trust Protocol member mills and manufacturers which play a key role in providing a more secure and transparent supply chain to brands and retailers. Advance Denim stated that as a Trust Protocol member, Advance Denim now can provide its customers with all-important confidence about the U.S. cotton in their sourcing mix. Recent Google Trends data reveals that online searches for new denim styles have increased exponentially over the last year across the world, with a 1300% increase in ‘denim masks’ and 110% increase in ’denim cargo shorts.’ Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, said, “The Trust Protocol’s emphasis on measurement and independent verification provides the confidence and trust that a brand is using responsibly grown cotton and producing a product that consumers can believe in. With each member that joins, we have greater resources to help provide tools and knowledge to U.S. cotton farmers to help them continuously improve their sustainability practices.”

February/March 2021

Government is planting cannabis crops as a replacement for cotton crops In an effort to revive cotton production, the government has taken a new route which is cannabis production. Compared to cotton, cannabis can produce crops three times the size of cotton per acre and has a faster growing-time averaging at 90 to 100 days as compared to 150 to 180 days for cotton. Therefore, cannabis production will work as a replacement for cotton and will ultimately benefit Pakistan’s economy. Cannabis production farms are

being set up in Jhelum, Peshawar, Chakwal and Islamabad disclosed Chaudhry Fawad Hussain, Federal Minister for Science and Technology. Hemp can be used in several parts of the industry. Fabrics derived from hemp is proven to be more durable, stronger, and maintain their form in the stretching process whereas when compared with cotton. Aside from that, hemp can also be merged with other types of fibers and is used in construction, paper, oils, paints, adhesives, plastics, and cooking.

Textile industry facing difficulties and need a prompt response from Government: PTEA Khurram Mukhtar, Patron-in-Chief of Pakistan Textile Export Association (PTEA), raised the general concerns over undue delay in disbursement of exporters' Duty Drawback of Taxes and Income Tax refunds (over Rs. 50 million). He also urged the Government to take immediate measures to ease the financial stress and gear up the export growth. Textile exporters are facing severe problems in meeting export demands. There is a drop in yarn production, but the textile industry's demands have increased. The gap between supply and demand has put pressure on textile exporters who are already facing a severe financial crisis for non-payment of Rs330 billion in income tax refund and duty drawback taxes. Mr. Mukhtar said that yarn had a 60 percent drop in its production this year while there was a 25 percent increase in the textile industry demand. This gap has led to a shortage of cotton yarn in the market and resulted in an immense increase in the thread price. Low cotton productivity and a ban on cross-border February/March 2021

cotton imports have spiked cotton yarn, and textile exporters are forced to pay a higher price for raw materials. He appreciated Prime Minister Imran Khan for taking severe notice of cotton shortage and allowing the import from Afghanistan and the Central Asian States via the Torkham land route; however, he considered it insufficient to meet the apparel industry's raw material needs as importing yarn from central Asian countries is not only expensive but will take one to two months to reach Pakistan. In order to overcome the scarcity of primary raw material, he demanded a cross-border import of cotton yarn from India to ensure continuity in export growth Vice-Chairman of PTEA Saqib Majeed believed that undue delay in Textile Policy's approval results in deferral or even backing out of investors from possible investments in the textile chain. Implementation of textile policy would attract domestic and foreign investment in the textile value chain and the development of value-added sectors. He demanded immediate approval and implementation of textile policy to pick-up the textile value chain's growth pace.

EFI Engage workshops featured for various customer solutions, including digital printing EFI™ Engage conference and workshops were held worldwide from 25 January to 5 February. Among various features of these events, special considerations have been given that featured groundbreaking innovations to accelerate customers' ability to profitably and efficiently transition from analog to digital printing setups. The conference featured a full training track on industrial textile printing, with training and demos on the entire portfolio of EFI Reggiani digital production solutions for apparel and textile manufacturing.

even across multiple printers and locations, and produce a higher quality print with fewer mistakes.

Through more than 200 online conference sessions, EFI Engage highlighted the expanded possibilities print and packaging businesses can achieve with leaner, faster, more efficient, and more integrated print production. The new EFI Fiery Command WorkStation offered the free, market-leading, central interface used to direct hundreds of thousands of Fiery Driven™ digital print devices worldwide to help users manage their digital print operations better,

Furthermore, EFI introduced its fastest roll-to-roll super wide-format printers for new 138 to 198-inch wide EFI VUTEk Q3r, and Q5r UV LED printers that can deliver expanded capabilities for a wide range of challenging, high-volume applications, with premium features such as multi-layer white and high-value in-line finishing, collection, and auto backlit and blocked out options that help users achieve a low total cost of operation.

A vital production innovation launched during Engage for cut-sheet digital printing was the integration between EFI Fiery Impose software and Duplo DC-618 Slitter/Cutter/Creaser devices that automates job preparation and finisher setup for higher-value custom jobs. The integration cuts the workflow's initial setup time in half and saves users up to 70% in setup time, preparing printing jobs with seamless, automated, two-way communication.

February/March 2021

Hohenstein Institute developed a molecular biological procedure to identify genetically modified cotton The Hohenstein experts have also developed their own molecular biological detection systems to test genetically modified cotton at all critical points along the entire value chain from raw cotton to yarns, fabrics, and finished end products. Hohenstein is a German family-owned company that has specialized for over 70 years in the testing, certification, and research of all kinds of textile products. The textile testing service provider Hohenstein is currently one of five laboratories in Europe that carry out accredited textiles testing for genetically modified organisms (GMO) by the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. The new biological screening allows complete traceability throughout the entire textile chain with clear yes/no statements about GMO-free cotton or textiles. As a member institute of the OEKO-TEX® Association, Hohenstein also screens fabrics for genetically modified organisms as part of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification. If the requirements are met, the articles can be advertised here with the claims "organic cotton," "biological cotton," or "GMO not detectable." Consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. This is because the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds as well as chemical pesticides and fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are found time and again in textiles that are actually labelled with the relevant organic labe. Consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton could be detected in the articles they buy. This is because, up to now, most organic certifications either do not include any obligatory laboratory tests at all or only random sample tests on cotton seeds. The possible causes of organic cotton contamination by genetic modifications are complex and extend along the entire value chain. Therefore, Hohenstein's biological method could be beneficial for ultimate satisfaction and surety regarding the organic content claims. February/March 2021

Efforts for Sustainable Denim Naveena denim Pakistan and UK-based Endrime in highlights As the supply chain needs continue to change, both brands and consumers look for more sustainable options without sacrificing the look. They feel that consumers love their favorite pair of jeans. In this regard, various brands and companies are putting their efforts. Endrime will launch a collection of exclusive new jeans resulting from the supply chain-wide Bast Recast project. Endrime is a UK-based denim brand. The Endrime denim is based on hemp fibers supplied by Kingdom Hemp from the Heilongjiang region of China, blended with Refibra and Modal lyocell from Austria-headquartered Lenzing. Similarly, Naveena denim Pakistan has blended the three fibers and spun and woven a range of 8-12oz denim fabrics from the resulting yarns, with Crafil

supplying the sewing threads also made from Lenzing’s lyocell, to ensure the jeans are 100% biodegradable. Naveena denim has used REFIBRA yarns. The pioneering REFIBRA™ technology involves upcycling cotton scraps from garment production. REFIBRA™ is a new generation of ecological fabrics made of upcycled cotton scraps from pre & post-consumer cotton waste and Lenzing ™ Lyocell fibers coming from wood pulp. Refibra™ fabrics are naturally soft and gentle on the skin, breathable, and compostable. Spain’s Jeanologica has also been involved in the project to provide authentic period washes for the denim. All of the scrap from production is retained and repulped into lyocell and hemp paper for the hangtags and labels.

Apparel sector appeals to the Govt to ban Cotton Yarn export

The availability of the cotton yarn in the local market is already very low which poses as a huge challenge for the apparel sector. In these circumstances, a 35.86 recorded increase in the cotton yarn export is making a layer of panic go through the apparel makers. These apparel makers are already seeking a ban on cotton yarn export as this premium raw material should be utilized by Pakistan to manufacture high value added products like garments which will in turn in earning foreign exchange. The value added products of knitwear, bedwear, towel and readymade garments have witnessed a decline of 26.14, 7.35, 11.36 and 0.42 percent respectively in February 2021 compared to January 2021. The rising volume of export of cotton yarn had deteriorated apparel sector’s growth as the country continued to face energy shortage, said Pakistan Apparel Forum chairman Muhammad Jawed Bilwani. The government should also abolish the existing five percent customs duty on import of cotton yarn below 40 single count. Cotton yarn prices surged 40 percent, but even at that exorbitant rate it was unavailable on the local market, he added. The situation has also compelled the exporters not to take new orders and for that reason such export orders meant for Pakistan shall be diverted to other regional countries. The dollar had depreciated against the rupee by seven percent, which was also a matter of concern for the exporters as the situation might lead to a liquidity crunch, Bilwani said. February/March 2021

UNIDO and Nudie jeans recycling second quality or export leftover jeans for environmental benefits Second-quality jeans are those that don’t quite meet quality standards – the wash may be too dark; the stitching may not be quite right, or the cut may be irregular. Usually they are sold for discount prices or just thrown away. They are also called as export leftovers. In industrial practices, such jeans become an environmental burden as the quality control departments won’t let them clear for shipment. In other words, these are now the unwanted or rejected garments. According to the United Nations, approximately 10,000 liters of water are required to make one single pair of jeans from the production of the cotton to the delivery of the final product to the store. Water scarcity has long been a challenge in Tunisia but climate change, combined with rapid urbanization, has made the problem even more acute. With demands from industry and agriculture putting immense pressure on Tunisia’s water resources, Nudie Jeans and UNIDO are hoping their project will show a way to do more with less. Nudie Jeans, a global leader in sustainable fashion,

is looking at ways to make use of second-quality jeans to maintain the highest quality of its products, while reducing the environmental impact of the production process. To develop greener production processes in Tunisia, Nudie Jeans has been working with the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) as part of the European Union-funded SwitchMed project. Roberta De Palma, Chief Technical Advisor at UNIDO, said, “The current production system for fashion goods uses high volumes of virgin fibers, which creates a significant pressure on valuable resources, such as water. Exploring ways for recycling post-industrial textile waste could reduce this dependency and support the development of a recycling infrastructure in the production countries.” Brinkberg, the Swedish company’s environmental manager, said, “Eight thousand pairs of second-choice jeans are being used, together with virgin denim fabric, to create 20,000 meters of new fabric. From this new fabric, 15,000 pairs of new jeans will be created.” February/March 2021

Carrington Textiles International A joint venture of Carrington Textiles and Sapphire Textile Mills Sapphire textile mills and Carrington textiles have launched a joint venture in Pakistan under Carrington Textiles International's name. The new partnership between the two textile giants has been developed after a stable relationship of more than 20 years. It offers customers the broadest range of woven workwear fabrics, including cotton-rich, polyester/cotton, stretch and new sustainable fabrics, all manufactured to the highest industrially launderable standards. This venture aims to establish new textile dyeing and finishing operations that will provide up to 20 million metres per year of dyed and white fabric to Carrington's global customers. Carrington Textiles' current product range includes sustainable, workwear, flame retardant, waterproof and defence fabrics, with properties that have anti-viral, antistatic, high visibility, water repellency, and protection against chemical splash, electric arc and ultraviolet radiation. Operating in 81 countries and with a vast international network of sales representatives, customers include NHS, McDonald's, BUPA, TATA Steel, Shell, Coca Cola, Airbus, Jaguar Land Rover, BP, Arcelor Mittal to name a few. Nabeel Abdullah, Sapphire's COO says, "Carrington Textiles International is an excellent project we are excited to be part of, and we are pleased our longstanding relationship with Carrington Textiles has developed into this joint venture." February/March 2021

John Vareldiz, CEO of Carrington Textiles, said, "Following years of working closely with Sapphire as one of our strategic loom state suppliers, we have made the next logical step together and invested in a new state of the art dyeing and finishing factory in Lahore. This not only gives us our own European engineered manufacturing plant in Asia, but it also provides access to a vertical operation, from spinning through to weaving, dyeing and finishing. All of the dyeing and finishing machinery has been specified by our technical experts to meet the exacting standards of the workwear market, and we are confident this integration of our supply chains will help to give our customers the best chance to succeed in a challenging and exciting market." Celebrating 130 years in 2021, Carrington Textiles is one of Europe’s largest textile suppliers to the workwear market. With bases in the UK, mainland Europe and Asia, Carrington Textiles supports many of the world’s largest employers in sectors including heavy industry, hospitality, defence and health. Formed in Lancashire, United Kingdom, in 1891, the company continues to lead the industry in textiles for personal protective equipment. Carrington Textiles’ current product range includes sustainable, workwear, flame retardant, waterproof and defence fabrics, with properties that include anti-viral, antistatic, high visibility, water repellency as well as protection against chemical splash, electric arc and ultraviolet radiation.

Cotton ending stocks to be drawn down due to higher consumption and lower production The drawing stocks will be down by the end of this season as outpace production is expected. The 2020/21 cotton consumption forecast has been revised upward this month from 24.2 million tonnes to 24.5 million tonnes, and while the projected 7% year-over-year increase isn’t nearly enough to offset the losses caused by the pandemic. Stock levels are expected to drop to 21.1 million tonnes by the end of 2020/21, which would represent a 1% decrease from the previous season. The Secretariat is projecting an increase in global trade. Both China and Pakistan are forecast to increase imports, the former benefitting from the price gap between domestic and foreign cotton and the latter due to a decrease in domestic production. This month, the Secretariat’s price projection for the year-end 2020/21 average of the A Index is 75.7 cents per pound.

The increasing trust of Global Retailers in Better Cotton boosted its demand in 2020 According to the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), 192 retailers and brand members sourced 1.7 million tonnes of Better Cotton in 2020. The volume is around 13% more than the cotton sourced during 2019. The BCI engages and brings together the entire cotton sector, from farmers, ginners, and spinners to civil society organizations and significant global retailers and brands, to establish more sustainable cotton as the norm. Among BCI’s 2,000 members, its Retailer and Brand Members influence the market and drive demand by sourcing more sustainable cotton as their raw material of choice. Better cotton: the cotton grown by licensed BCI Farmers often forms a significant

February/March 2021

part of a retailer’s portfolio of more sustainable cotton, including organic, Fairtrade, and recycled cotton. Paula Lum Young-Bautil, Deputy Director, BCI, said, “BCI Members remained focussed on their commitments to sustainability through this challenging year. From civil society members supporting farmers on protective measures for Covid-19 to commercial members continuing to source Better Cotton and investing in cotton farming communities, BCI Members were more active and engaged than ever. Now we look ahead to 2021 and support even more ambitious sourcing plans from our growing membership.”

Greenwashing Label on websites: In about 42% of cases, the claims were exaggerated or deceptive According to the European Commission and National Consumer Authorities, about 42% of the claims were exaggerated, false or deceptive and could qualify as unfair commercial practices under EU rules. The data was shared as the results of their annual 'sweep' of websites. Greenwashing has increased as consumers increasingly seek to buy environmentally sound products. The point where websites take advantage of consumers looking to purchase environmentally sound products. This year, for the first time ever, the sweep focused on "greenwashing", the practice by which companies claim they are doing more for the environment than they actually are. The "sweep" analyzed green online claims from various business sectors such as garments, cosmetics, and household equipment. The Commission and consumer authorities examined 344 seemingly dubious claims in more detail and found that: • In more than half of the cases, the trader did not provide sufficient information for consumers to judge the claim's accuracy.

• In 37% of cases, the claim included vague and general statements such as "conscious", "eco-friendly", "sustainable," which aimed to convey the unsubstantiated impression to consumers that a product had no negative impact on the environment. • Moreover, in 59% of cases, the trader had not provided easily accessible evidence to support its claim. Justice Commissioner Didier Reynders said, "More and more people want to live a green life and I applaud companies that strive to produce eco-friendly products or services. However, there are also unscrupulous traders out there, who pull the wool over consumers' eyes with vague, false or exaggerated claims." A potential amount to an unfair commercial practice under the Unfair Commercial Practices Directive (UCPD) may be charged. National authorities will now contact the companies concerned to point out the issues detected and to ensure that these are rectified where necessary. The sweep findings will also feed into the impact assessment to be prepared for a new legislative proposal to empower consumers for the green transition. February/March 2021

Vietnam's textile and garment industry strives to obtain US$39 billion export revenue in 2021 as orders rise again Vietnam’s revenue levels are on the path of restoration as orders have increased in number in 2021 after the inauguration of Vietnam’s COVID-19 vaccination programme. In order to promote Vietnamese textile and garment brands globally and to introduce Vietnamese textile and apparel exports into the global retail chain, it is crucial to develop the supply chain of raw materials. “2021 will certainly be a difficult year, but the company's products are mainly exported to Europe, where the market is improving. In addition, the EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA) will certainly create impetus fortextile and garment

exports to Europe,” said Alessandro Di Palma, CEO of Dalat Worsted Spinning Company. The surge in incoming orders have greatly helped in sustaining this export turnover of the textile and garment industry. Statistics from the Ministry of Industry and Trade show that total export turnover of textiles and garments reached US$5.954 billion in the first two months of 2021 while import turnover reached US$3.167 billion. Thus, the industry reported a trade surplus of US$3.299 billionwhile the added value of the industry has been quite high at 55.4%.

The rejuvenation of California's denim manufacturing industry Los Angeles has long been the USA's denim hub, but change has been slow to come to the established brands and factories in the region. However, the trend has started to change. Earlier, Pakistan's denim manufacturer, Artistic Milliners, announced an investment in a Los Angeles manufacturing plant. Now, Saitex has also announced the opening of a new plant in Los Angeles. Saitex company has installed the latest laser cutting, semi-automated sewing, robotic spraying, 3D laser detailing, and one-step wash machines connected to a state-of-the-art water recycling system in its new LA plant. It is also initiating an automated supply chain ecosystem using interconnected ordering and

February/March 2021

costing with shorter lead times. The use of a Cloud-based digital Platform as a Service (PaaS) system will allow a new approach to inventory management and "made to order" capabilities, sustainably and fast. The current plant in Ho Chi Minh City, Saitex, produces an average of 18,000 pairs of jeans per day. With a $22 million recycling system on-site, water consumption for each pair of jeans has been dramatically reduced from 80 liters to just one. Sanjeev Bahl, CEO of Saitex, said, "Saitex USA is another step in our journey, providing an opportunity to bring sustainable manufacturing and jobs to the United States, a first step in re-evaluating and reinventing global supply chains."

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UK fashion and textile sector in crisis due to post Brexit trade arrangements

The new post-Brexit trade agreement has drastically changed the order of business and Tarde in the UK but one such sector that has faced the most difficulty is the Britain’s fashion and textile industry which is worth £35billion. The red tape and travel restrictions are upsetting complex international supply chains of the fashion industry. Over 400 prominent fashion experts have written a letter to Prime Minister Boris Johnson addressing the gravity of the situation.

arrangements including VAT on all goods shipped into the EU by the end of February, or British brands will die”, said Designer Katharine Hamnett.

“The deal done with the EU has [left] a gaping hole where promised free movement for goods and services for all creatives, including the fashion and textiles sector. Yet we have been disregarded in this deal and our concerns overlooked. Without urgent attention these issues will jeopardise the immediate and long term future of the sector.” fashion experts say in the letter to Boris Johnson.

While the UK govt. spokesperson said, “We are working closely with businesses in the fashion industry to ensure they get the support they need to trade effectively with Europe, and seize new opportunities as we strike trade deals with the world’s fastest growing markets.”

“Many firms could be weeks away from going under. We need a radical overhaul of customs February/March 2021

The consumers on both sides of the English Channel are refusing purchases because of the unexpected VAT and tariff charges and the smaller companies that also help support the UK’s fashion industry do not have enough funds to maneuver and do business amidst these new rules.

The UK Cabinet Office said it was working carefully with businesses in the fashion industry to regulate to the new trading environment and was responsive that some businesses were facing challenges.

Thrifting is the key to zero-to-little waste as New York tries to lessen its annual textile waste In terms of recycling and trying waste control, Will Textiles ever have their turn? The time might have come as Raskin pointed out, ““the issue of textile waste has not gone away, and yet the awareness has picked up,” pointing to the fact that it is now or never to take a stand. “The first ReFashion week three years ago was just highlighting the thrift and reuse sector and produced exclusively by DonateNYC,” she said. “Last year, my organization got involved to really make it a cross-sector experience because we realized this isn’t a problem the government or private sector alone can solve.” To make people aware about how lack of waste management is a big issue, a play for New York City’s waste network was arranged. As in years past, designers Heron Preston and Eileen Fisher, as well as Fashion Revolution are taking part. “As one of the sustainability stylists I can assure you’re in for a treat,” said Gabriel Garmon. “We worked so hard to showcase how rewarding thrifting truly is and emphasized the importance of zero-to-little waste. The production of this year’s show is also amazing. I love the concept.” February/March 2021

Cover Story

Engineering Meets Process Knowledge

The cutting edge technologies to provide flawless systems

Since 1960, Temsan is with the aim to ensure that your textile mill produces at the highest efficiency. As one of the biggest manufacturers, Temsan offers complete process solution in textile humidification system, highest reliability for efficiently performance, energy saving and quality of your mill. February/March 2021

Cover Story

Cem Erdoğrul CEO. Temsan Air

We spent 2020 by trying to understand COVID-19 which has turned into a pandemic and it is expected that the effects of the pandemic will continue in the coming years. In this content, TEMSAN AIR ENGINEERING has approached the subject in a very sensitive way with the philosophy of “health first” by board of directors and managers from the first day by realizing all anticipated and recommended precautions and practices in the fastest way, by staying in touch directly or via social media with the stakeholders in Turkey and the world; and it will continue to decisively put its future plans into practice by sharing this attitude, in order to keep the level of sensitivity and awareness at the highest level regarding THIS CRISIS in mutual understanding. With the motto "today will be better than yesterday, rather than tomorrow will be worse than today“, we are doing the strategic planning in production, R&D, finance, sales and marketing for the future days which is called NEW NORMAL. Although the bad scenarios about the future are constantly on the agenda and it is a fact that the economic recession will cause significant damage in the short and long term, we want to stay in the peace of sharing our hopes, passions and excitement within the framework of rational approaches with every individual around us as long as we breathe. In addition to this, I want to add these words. I believe that there is no any work which is made by heart realized in a bad result. In my opinion, business is not just a phenomenon of numbers, costs, or profits. As in all of our social life, emotions, love and friendship are also included in business. With the excitement of welcoming more beautiful days than yesterday and hugging our loved ones, I present my love and respect. February/March 2021

Cover Story

Temsan Air Engineering - Tailormade Approach for Each Project

Since 1960, we combine the Know-How concept and dedication to follow the cutting edge technologies to provide flawless humidification systems. The major aim to ensure that your textile mill produces at the highest efficiency. As one of the biggest manufacturers, Temsan offers complete process solution in textile humidification system, highest reliability for efficiently performance, energy saving and quality of your mill. “IT IS NOT ONLY ABOUT YEARS“ Experience is just a word. That makes it meaningful is not just years that count, but also the problems faced, and solutions provided. We see this word in a larger context. Experince for us is being able to communicate in any language, any culture, and this diversity also improves our technical abilities, as we face with a variety of needs. Experience is what makes us satisfy all these needs. February/March 2021

“MORE THAN 35 COUNTRIES IN 4 CONTINENTS“ In last 2 years, Temsan received 32 project orders in Pakistan. This makes more than 180 A/C units, and 75 filter units. With these orders, Temsan will be completing its 2250th A/C units and 1500th filter units with this orders since its establishment. In 2021, this numbers are increasing rapidly.

Cover Story

Temsan’s Weaving Mill

R&D Center – Fan Test Tunnel

Temsan Air Research and Development Center Most energy consuming parts in an air conditioning and filtration system are fans. For that reason, Temsan had great developments in axiel fan design with its R&D department. Everyday tens of tests are made in international standart fan tunnel in the R&D test center. Additionally, a test plant which has double layers were built by Temsan. Different country weather conditions are formed in the outer layer and the inner layer air is conditined by considering it as inside of the mill. That’s how, different designs The budget allocated for R&D of Temsan has exceeded 1 million $ in the last 2 years.

and 300 looms weaving and denim mill. Temsan’s process knowledge in textile production generates another success cornerstone in air conditioning and filter field. Because, it knows the requirements and needs in textile mills. One of the Biggest Manufacturers in the World Temsan have a 20.000 m² manufacturing plant in Kahramanmaraş in Turkey. All of the mechanical parts except electric motors and electronic equipment are manufactured in its own factory. Temsan has manufacturing flexibility and absolute control over manufacturing process of the parts. Using international standart materials and following high standarts in its manufacturing methods has taken Temsan to the next level in the market. That’s how, Temsan assured its other principles, less maintenance cost and long life!

Real Tailormade Approach For Each Project Every project its own dynamics and each customer has its own requests. This situation requires an exclusive projecting pilosophy against all customers. Project team of Temsan accepts tailormade designing as a work principle and this approachment became a company principle. Process Knowledge Until today, Temsan completed more than 1000 projects in all types; ring spinning, open end spinning, airjet/vortex spinning, weaving, knitting, nonwoven, doubling&twisting and etc. Today, it is so proud to be able to say that Temsan has capability to design all types of textile projects. This process knowledge comes from Temsan’s group company which consists of a 33.000 spindles ring spinning mill

Temsan. One of the Biggest Manufacturers in the World

February/March 2021

Cover Story

New Division: Temsan Industrial Machinery The good results in textile air conditioning field and having process knowledge in all areas of textile industry encouraged for the new steps. In the middle of 2020, Temsan decided to realize a new division in the name of Temsan Industrial Machinery. Machines such as stenter, slasher indigo dying, pad steam, drying, sizing machines, and batching units started to be manufactured at the highest quality with Temsan Industrial Machinery. First machines started running already, all of them will be available to order by the end of this year.

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Temsan Stenter Drawings

Temsan stenter machine is designed for maximum efficiency in order to achieve the best finished fabric. It has a wide opportunity of variations in the type of machine and also in intermediate parts. As it is like in all areas of Temsan, the aim will not be manufacturing machinery, it will be manufacturing quality. Temsan Stenters

February/March 2021

Temsan plant a tree for every 25 kW! | Temsan encourages their partners to involve

Let’s save energy, and change the World! Our aim is to protect ecological balance while we are developing the world. Saving energy is not only about saving financial assets, it is also about saving natural sources. That’s why, the main point of Temper is balance!

February/March 2021

US Group boosts water savings through International Water Stewardship Standard

Pakistan denim and jeans manufacturer US Group, based in Lahore, has reported 254,356m3 of water savings in 2020 – the equivalent of 100 Olympic-size swimming pools – by certifying to the Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) Standard. The textiles sector remains one of the largest manufacturing industries in Pakistan, employing 45 per cent of the country’s workforce, yet it is a resource-intensive sector that requires large volumes of water, whilst adversely affecting water quality. US Group is the first textiles company in the world to certify their sites to the AWS Standard (Core Level) – a holistic approach to managing water sustainably both at a site and catchment scale. Two of US February/March 2021

Group’s sites were certified in March 2020. Implementing the AWS Standard has led to several water-related actions, including the installation of systems for measuring water usage and routine sampling of effluent discharge from their facilities. The Standard not only requires good water management; it also requires good water stewardship, meaning that a site works beyond its own fence-line and engages with other major water users to take positive action at both the site and catchment level. Riaz Ahmad, Vice President Compliance of US Apparel & Textiles, said: “We are proud to become a

global industry leader in acquiring Alliance for Water Stewardship Certification. Implementing the AWS Standard has enabled us to go outside our own premises, build awareness within our factories and supply chain, and engage with businesses, communities and public departments to identify water risks and challenges – and work together to address them.” US Group also created awareness amongst employees and the community about water stewardship, including the importance of clean drinking water, sanitation and hygiene (WASH), using simple communications materials in both English and Urdu languages. Looking ahead, US Group is developing plans to ensure access to safe drinking water for local communities. The US Group believes that implementing the AWS Standard has strengthened their understanding of water risks in the catchment, which in turn has improved their ZDHC and Higgs Index scores; both key indicators of sustainability for retailers sourcing textiles and apparel. The group supplies to major brands around the world including H&M. Ziaur Rahman, Regional Country Manager, South Asia & Africa Region, H&M, said: “At H&M Group we are committed to ensuring that water is used responsibly throughout our company’s supply chain. It is important for us to contribute to protecting the environment and to secure the availability of water for people. We applaud US Group for showing leadership on water stewardship and congratulate

them for becoming one of our first suppliers to achieve AWS certification. We hope that this will generate significant impact and inspire others.” US Group began their water stewardship journey in July 2018, when they signed a commitment to implement the AWS Standard with WWF-Pakistan as their implementing partners under the International Labour and Environmental Standards Application in Pakistan SME’s (ILES) project, funded by European Union. This signalled their public commitment to work on water stewardship. The AWS Standard required them to work through five key steps to improve Good Water Governance; Sustainable Water Balance; Good Water Quality Status; Important Water-Related Areas; and Safe Water, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH) for all. Sohail Ali Naqvi, Head Freshwater and Senior Manager ILES Project at WWF-Pakistan said: “Textile businesses have started adopting the water stewardship approach. WWF-Pakistan is assisting the sector to implement the Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) Standard. As an example, it encouraged US Group to certify to the AWS Standard – the first textile enterprise to do so globally on a core-level. “WWF-Pakistan facilitated this enterprise in implementing the Standard since the beginning. This is a very pertinent milestone in WWF-Pakistan's water stewardship journey as the textile sector is now ambitiously working towards the cause. We continue February/March 2021

to support and collaborate with more enterprises to transform the sector by working together and going beyond the fence line to address shared water challenges.” There is now a growing number of sites in the textile industries that have registered for AWS certification, including AGI denim, Yunus Textiles Mills Ltd., Artistic Milliners and Gohar Textile Mills Pvt. Ltd., all of which face different contextual water risks. Two sites of Soorty Enterprises were recently certified, with one attaining Gold-level certification. The implementation of the AWS Standard on all these sites will be key to driving sustainable water use in the textile sector, both in Pakistan and globally. Maheen Malik, Alliance for Water Stewardship Coordinator, Pakistan, said: “This is exactly the type of local and global leadership that is needed to ignite credible water stewardship. We are now building momentum in the textiles sector, and transparency is critical to motivate others and scale up good work. Pakistan is setting an example for the rest of the world.” February/March 2021

Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) Standard The Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) is a global, multi-stakeholder membership organization whose mission is to ignite and nurture global and local leadership in credible water stewardship that recognizes and secures the social, cultural, environmental and economic value of freshwater. AWS are custodians of the AWS Standard, which provides a multi-stakeholder developed and endorsed best-practice framework for businesses to either implement water stewardship at their own sites or to leverage action at their supplier sites. The AWS Standard was created through a global, multi-stakeholder development process, involving experts from around the world with experience in civil society, the public sector and the private sector. As such, the approach set out by the AWS Standard is recognised globally as international best practice on water stewardship, supported by over 150 AWS Members. The Standard can be used by any water user, anywhere in the world. It takes the user on a journey to assess and understand their site and catchment water risks, set contextually appropriate targets, develop a water stewardship plan and then evaluate and communicate transparently about activities undertaken. Through independent third-party verification, certification against the AWS Standard

SCADA metering system on Water extraction, Consumption and Disposal points

SCADA metering system

Effluent Treatment Plant

allows a site to make credible claims related to their water stewardship activities. The five steps of the Standard enable the implementer to understand their site’s reliance upon, and impact on, water resources. Crucially, it also steers the site through a process to identify other risks and opportunities that might exist outside the site itself, within the wider catchment (or watershed). It is through this comprehensive approach, moving beyond water management to stewardship, that implementers contribute towards the five AWS outcomes: Good Water Governance; Sustainable Water Balance; Good Water Quality Status; Important Water-Related Areas; and Safe Water, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH) for all. Sector Standards and Initiatives As part of a three-year project* to tackle water challenges in the textile and apparel sector, AWS is working to raise awareness amongst brands and their suppliers about the need for water stewardship, and identify opportunities for collaboration and alignment with others interested in working on water within the textile sector.

Given the many initiatives and standards that are already active in sector, efforts to catalyse greater uptake of water stewardship need to build on existing approaches. Two key examples include the Roadmap to Zero programme by ZDHC (aimed at reducing the sectors use of chemicals) and the Higg Index by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (aimed at providing a suite of tools that enable businesses to standardise how impacts are measured and managed across the sector). AWS is undertaking research to assess how to build on these and other approaches to enhance water stewardship across the sector. *Putting Water Stewardship to Work: Tackling Water Pollution in the Textile and Apparel Value Chain (2020-2022) is a five-partner consortium project, which AWS is part of, together with partners Aid by Trade Foundation, CDP, Solidaridad, and Water Witness, funded by the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC). For more information visit: a4ws.org/TEXtalks February/March 2021

US Group to reduce water consumption by 50% within 3 years SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGE 2022 The US Group is a Lahore, Pakistan-based company that creates denim and jeans for clothing brand leaders who require reliable quality and delivery. By specializing in denim, US Group provides state-of-the-art fashion jeans solutions. US Group engaged with businesses, academic institutions, residential communities and public departments. This led them to develop a ‘water stewardship plan’ for the site and catchment based on shared water risks. Team TEXtalks International had a conversation with Irfan Nazeer Ahmad, Managing Director, US Denim Mills to know more about their sustainable goals. TEXtalks: What was the main requirement for achieving the Alliance for Water Stewardship Standard (AWS Standard) certification? Irfan Nazeer Ahmad: The main requirements of AWS program was to adopt a five-tier plan in order to: • Gather data and understand the challenges that we face as a shared community • Commit ourselves, as an institution, to the cause of saving water and make a strategic plan • Implement the plan in true spirit with clearly defined objectives, and with responsible persons nominated to achieve targeted objectives by defined dates • Evaluate the performance on periodic basis • Communicate and disclose our efforts on water stewardship to all stakeholders, including data. TEXtalks: Describe the key steps you have taken to improve water sustainability?

February/March 2021

Irfan Nazeer Ahmad: Water quality: The first key step to improving water quality is to start testing it. We get raw water tested from EPA- approved labs every quarter. The wastewater is tested monthly. Results are compared with NEQS standards and are found to be well within the acceptable NEQS limits. Efficiency: To improve on efficiency, the first and most important step is to start measuring it. US GROUP has installed a comprehensive metering system, SCADA, on its water extraction point, consumption points and disposal points. Through this metering system we are able to effectively monitor our water usage. As a matter of fact, we have set ourselves to reduce water consumption by 50 per cent within three years under our internal plan of “SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGE 2022”. Important water-related areas: We also recognize important water-related areas that must be considered, such as the Safari Park Lake. Water governance: To improve water governance, we involved various stakeholders, both those within the facility as well as outside, and talked about our shared water risks. Water, sanitation and hygiene (WASH): We ensure clean drinking water, access to sanitation for all our employees and further intend to provide access to clean drinking water to those in our catchment. TEXtalks: How do you see the results in water saving, after the implementation of AWS?

Irfan Nazeer Ahmad: Results are quite encouraging. We feel proud to share that US DENIM is the first organization in the textile world that has achieved AWS Certification in March last year. Inspired by our Holy Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUH) saying, “DO NOT WASTE WATER EVEN IF YOU WERE AT A RUNNING STREAM” we have taken lot of initiatives to reduce, reuse and recycle process water. In terms of reduction, our product development and R&D teams at US GROUP are continuously making efforts to develop new products based on such recipes that would use less water. Similar focus is on the machines and technology, using less water, that we would be investing in future. In terms of re-use, US DENIM MILLS was able to save 18 per cent of water through the following initiatives during the year 2020: soft water recovery from finishing; alkaline water recovery; and hot water reused from the condensate recovery system (CRU). TEXtalks: How has certification to AWS Standard improved your company’s ZDHS and Higg Index scores? Irfan Nazeer Ahmad: We saw a significant improvement in our ZDHC score that improved from 25 per cent to 67 per cent. Higg Index score improved from 63 per cent to 67 per cent. Just for your reference HIGG Index focuses on seven different parameters and, water is just one of those seven parameters. TEXtalks: What role can the private sector play in managing the water resources and how important it is for business continuity? Irfan Nazeer Ahmad: The private sector has a significant and important role to play. Both, on-site and off-site. First of all, we need to raise the awareness level on this subject with all stakeholders and make them realize about the water scarcity, water availability and water quality. A sense of emergency needs to be declared based on the data available which is quite alarming. All industrial units, as a starting point, must install flow meters / SCADA to capture the actual data. Unless we have the real numbers available we will not be able to make any conservation / improvement plans. The business community must invest in the kind of technologies that use the least amount of water possible. Furthermore, new products should be developed based on fibers and recipes that consume

less water. We are already collaborating with Agriculture University Faisalabad to develop HEMP as one of the fibers to be used in our product range. It is a natural fiber and, as per initial estimates, consumes one third water, as compared to cotton, during its growth. The business community must invest more and more on such R&D related projects. TEXtalks: Besides AWS, what other sustainability initiatives is US GROUP taking? Irfan Nazeer Ahmad: As a responsible supplier and stakeholder of our society US GROUP initiated a 8-points strategic plan named “SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGE 2022” at the start of 2020. According to the plan, the entire management of US GROUP committed itself to certain targets to be achieved within three years, starting from 2020. Water was one of the most important segments of this plan. Just for reference, here are the key areas of our SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGE 2022, with targets clearly defined, to be achieved by 2022: i) Water management: Reduce by 50% through process improvement and conservation, reuse and recycle WWTP ii) GHG emissions: Reduce by 40% iii) Energy management: Reduce consumption by 45% iv) Renewable energy: 20% should be from Solar (7MW) v) Chemical management: 100% comply with MRSL and RSL; Reduce usage by 20% vi) Waste management: Reduce Waste by 25%; Reuse & recycle; Hazardous waste to landfill must be ZERO vii) Materials & technology: Use sustainably grown materials by 10%; Use recycled materials (5%). viii) Health, safety and well-being: Continuous improvement in total recordable injury rate; lost time injury; training man hours; capacity building; and clean drinking water for all as per WHO standards. Significant improvement has already been made in these areas during the year 2020. We will be publishing the achieved numbers on our website in coming weeks. The declared data would be auditable by third parties. Team TEXtalks International thanked Irfan Nazeer Ahmad for his valuable time and it was great to learn more about the sustainable initiatives taken by the US Group and paid best wishes for the future steps to make the world more sustainable. February/March 2021

The new Truetzschler card TC 19i for Recycling

Turning textile waste into sustainable success

The intelligent card TC 19i for Recycling

The market for recycled textiles is growing rapidly – because fashion is faster than ever, environmental regulations are stricter than ever, and the consumer focus on sustainability is sharper than ever. That’s why companies around the globe are seeking solutions to the key challenges involved in turning textile waste into high-quality yarn. Truetzschler is now launching an intelligent card that is specifically designed for this application. It’s called the TC 19i for Recycling. Sustainability is transforming every aspect of the way people live and work, from renewable energy or electric vehicles through to packaging-free supermarkets. In the textile industry, the market for recycled fibers is growing at high speed because it

February/March 2021

Gentle but effective tuft opening with the new WEBFEED: new WEBFEED: 1) Three licker-ins 2) Carding segments 3) Coated profiles 4) Special separating recycling knife

taps into two contradictory trends: First, consumers buy more clothes but throw the clothes away much sooner; this is known as “fast fashion”. And second, consumers are increasingly eco-conscious and want more sustainable textile products. Due to this high demand, as well as lower raw material costs and potentially higher profit margins, many companies are now exploring ways of producing high-quality yarns from recycled fibers – but it’s a difficult task. Waste from yarn or garment production, as well as used textiles or garments, present a wide range of challenges in spinning preparation, where the later quality of the yarn is being determined. Known as “hard waste”, secondary fibers from torn waste contain unwanted

yarn or fabric particles that reduce the quality of the final output and can impair the carding performance. They also contain a high amount of short fibers, which can have a negative impact on yarn strength. An intelligent card for high-quality recycled textiles “At Truetzschler, we are always seeking solutions to the latest market trends – and we are passionate about sustainability,” says Thomas Schmitz, Head of Development Fiber Preparation at Truetzschler. “The TC 19i for Recycling empowers our customers to make the most of recycled material by optimizing opening and cleaning processes. It also offers a gentle, but effective treatment of short fibers and ensures no unnecessary waste is produced.” Here’s how the TC 19i is able to achieve these results: • Gentle but effective tuft opening: Our new WEBFEED has components such as the wired licker-in with stationary carding segments and improved profile geometries that are specifically designed for recycling applications. The recycling knife ensures the removal of disruptive particles and minimizes the loss of good fibers. • Robustness and reliability: Secondary fibers from torn waste may adhere to the surfaces of material carrying parts and lead to fiber blockages. With TC 19i for Recycling, this cannot happen because all material carrying parts consist of stainless steel. Moreover, the robust design and innovative coatings of key parts guarantee reliable performance in almost any application. • More value from waste: Our gap optimizer T-GO for Recycling uses sensors and algorithms to monitor and automatically adjust the ideal carding gap for the material involved, even under changing production conditions. In this way, it maximizes quality and productivity during recycling. • Flexibility: Our MULTI WEBCLEAN system enables

Card sliver of secondary fibers

Secondary fibers of torned denim

fast, flexible and customized adjustments to recycling applications. Eight elements in the pre- and post-carding zone can be configurated either as carding or cleaning element or cover profile. This flexibility empowers customers to achieve the best possible configuration for their specific process. • Good advice and hands-on service: The TC 19i for Recycling, as well as Truetzschler installations for recycling as a whole, stand out due to their high number of possible configurations. Truetzschler supports each customer with recommendations for ideal settings and makes sure that customers’ production goals are actually realized. Staying ahead of consumer demand and regulations “By producing high-quality sliver from recycled fibers for new yarn, our customers are able to make progress toward their targets for sustainability, while also staying ahead of rising regulatory pressure and increasing consumer demand for eco-friendly products”, says Markus Wurster, Head of Global Sales. The TC 19i for Recycling is an intelligent card that helps companies in the textile industry to embrace sustainability and turn this megatrend into a mega opportunity. About Truetzschler recycling solutions Truetzschler offers complete solutions for the recycling of cotton waste from spinning preparation, as well as the recycling of secondary fibers from torn textile waste: From blowroom technology for ideal opening, cleaning and blending to advanced carding and draw frame solutions. The TC 19i for Recycling and the integrated draw frame IDF 2 are benchmark in the direct spinning of rotor yarns from recycled materials. Truetzschler also provides a wide portfolio of card clothings specifically developed for recycling applications. Digital solutions and fast, reliable service complete our offer and help customers to turn waste into sustainable quality yarns. February/March 2021

Enrique Silla: “after COVID, the next global crisis will be the water crisis” In 2020 Jeanologia saved about 15.5 million cubic meters of water, the amount needed for the annual human consumption of a city like Amsterdam • Textiles are responsible for 20% of water pollution, which is why it is necessary to change production processes immediately • With H2Zero the company is rewriting the future of the industry of jean finishing by being able to recycle 100% of the water used and guarantee zero discharge • The main objective of the company is its MissionZero: to dehydrate and detoxify the industry by 2025 and all of its technologies are focused on that goal

technologies from the material to finishings and the software EIM (a tool for measuring environmental impact) achieves a true revolution by completely changing the operating model.

It is known that the textile industry is responsible for 20% of global pollution. Within textiles jeans is one of the most sold garments and with the biggest environmental impact throughout its production. That is why it is necessary to change production processes immediately bringing together the efforts of all those involved in the chain.

H2Zero is able to recycle 100% of the water used and guarantees Zero discharge. This is how it reduces water consumption, energy use and eliminates discharge, saving more than 10m3 of water per hour.

Water is fundamental for combatting climate change and this depends in large part to the proper use of water. To do this Jeanologia has made a set of technical solutions available, creating an ecosystem of collaborators, accompanying them on their way to producing with Zero discharge. The main objective of the company is its MissionZero: to dehydrate and detoxify the industry of denim finishings by 2025. All of the technologies they have developed over the years have been focused on this goal. H2Zero: 100% recycled water and Zero discharge Jeanologia has been a leader in the way that jeans are designed and produced with the integration of its

February/March 2021

However, the company is rewriting the future of the industry and jean finishing with one of the key technologies: H2Zero, the first circular water treatment system which allows the same amount of water used in the process to be reused, creating the perfect circle.

“We have installed H2Zero in 19 plants across the globe and the test of concept is valid. This technology is revolutionizing the textile industry converting it into an industry free of water and creating a model of transparency, innovation, and sustainable practices”. Said Silla, the CEO at Jeanologia. 15.5 million cubic meters of water saved in 2020 For World Water Day each year, Jeanologia makes public the results of its ecological saving account with which it measure the cubic meters of polluted water that is no longer poured into the planet’s rivers and seas, thanks to its technology. It is of note that, despite the current situation, in 2020 the company saved around 15.5 million cubic meters of water, the same amount for the annual human consumption of 844,815 people. The population a city like Amsterdam has.

Diamond Fabrics Ltd implements BMSvision MES solution in its denim division Diamond Fabrics, part of Pakistan’s premier vertically integrated Sapphire Group, has selected Belgian based BMSvision as a partner for its prestigious MES project, keystone in the roadmap towards a I 4.0 company. Tayyab Abdullah explains: ”We were looking for a solution that goes far beyond the traditional production and machine monitoring. In order to prepare for an I 4.0 compliant manufacturing operation, we need a Manufacturing Execution System (MES) that can manage and track the entire production flow, from yarn to finished fabric. Furthermore, the system needs to seamlessly integrate with the SAP ERP system in place. After a thorough market research and various demo’s and workshops, we selected BMSvision as our partner because of their vast experience in the industry and the turnkey project approach including hardware, software and services”. In a first phase of the project, the warp preparation department including ball warping, sizing and rebeaming as well as the complete denim finishing department are covered. These are the most challenging operations within a denim mill. In a second phase, all looms will be connected. Each machine in the preparation and finishing department is equipped with a state-of-the-art touch screen based DU11 data collection terminal with wireless barcode scanner. Once the production orders are released by the SAP system, the planning department uses the BMSvision scheduling software (PlanBoard) to assign the orders to the individual machines. Orders are started at the machine by February/March 2021

scanning the barcoded batch travel card. The PlantView application visualizes the complete production process in real time and highlights any possible deviation from standard. A powerful reporting tool featuring interactive reports and charts, allows the users to create their own calculations and reports. After each production step, the MES systems prints a barcoded ticket and all relevant production data is transferred to the SAP system. Diamond’s request to monitor and document the flow of goods throughout the whole production chain, to be able to trace all materials used and to know the current status Work in Process all the time, is handled by BMSvision’s traceability module. Besides managing the production flow, Diamond Denim also implements the BMSvision EnergyMaster solution. Tayyab Abdullah: “Energy consumption is becoming a very important factor in the overall operating cost of our factory. With ever rising energy prices and increasing environmental legislation, energy management has become a very critical success factor to run our business in a profitable way. The EnergyMaster system makes all our energy streams transparent and allows to allocate the exact energy cost to each production batch”. The finishing lines are equipped with power meters and various flow meters to monitor consumption of compressed air, steam, water, gas and caustic. All these meters are connected to the DU11 data collection terminal and combining consumption with production data allows correct calculation of the energy cost for each production batch. Excessive consumptions or consumptions while the machine is idle, are immediately detected and highlighted.

ONLINE VISITOR REGISTRATION COMMENCES FOR ITMA ASIA + CITME Online visitor registration for ITMA Asia + CITME 2020 which will be held at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai is now open. Visitors who purchase their badge at www.itmaasia.com and www.citme.com.cn will enjoy special online rates. Early-bird rates available till 6 June are RMB 60 for a five-day badge and RMB 30 for a one-day badge. Standard onsite rates cost RMB 100 for a five-day badge and RMB 50 for a one-day badge. Visitors who register online will be also given access to the exhibition e-catalogue.

positively to the news that the combined exhibition will be staged as planned,” said Mr Wang Shutian, Honorary President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA).

The show owners and organisers are committed to working closely with the authorities, such as the Joint Prevention and Control Mechanism of the State Council and the Shanghai Convention and Exhibition Industries Association (SCEIA), to implement preventive and social distancing measures to enable the combined exhibition to be held safely.

Despite the ongoing Covid-19 challenge, the seventh edition of the combined exhibition is expected to feature a gross exhibition space of 170,000 square metres. To-date, it has attracted the participation of 1,500 exhibitors, including many established machinery manufacturers from 24 countries.

“We would like to assure that the safety of our participants, partners and staff during the exhibition is of utmost importance to us. Strict safety measures will be implemented onsite. Visitors should purchase their badge online to avoid onsite queues and allow better and smooth entry process,” urged Mr Ernesto Maurer, President of CEMATEX. “Taking into consideration the needs of the industry, we have decided to continue with the staging of the combined exhibition. Since the certificate of admission and stand details were issued last December, many exhibitors have responded February/March 2021

He added, “The pandemic has created pent-up demand for quality machinery for sectors such as nonwovens and technical textiles as there was a lack of sales and marketing opportunities last year. Therefore, our machinery manufacturers are eager to reconnect with the market.”

ITMA ASIA + CITME is owned by CEMATEX and Chinese partners - the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC), and organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. Japan Textile Machinery Association is a special partner of the combined show. The last combined show in 2018 attracted the participation of 1,733 exhibitors from 28 economies and registered a visitorship of over 100,000 from 116 countries and regions.

Clear choice: security, prevention and flexibilit

New Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds Uster Quantum 4.0 – The connected yarn quality assurance system

New customer-centered user interface with a 16:9 touchscreen on control units

Which yarn clearing technology should spinners choose? Now there’s only one answer, as Uster launches the new Quantum 4.0 clearer generation. This world-beating innovation combines both capacitive and optical sensors in one – delivering comprehensive security, prevention and flexibility. The Smart Duo system offers the best of both worlds for intelligent yarn quality control and optimized profitability. It means mills can now focus on meeting February/March 2021

the fast-moving market challenges, instead of pondering technical options. Security and reliability: the basis of yarn quality Quantum 4.0 is like a dream come true for the industry. For years, spinners have wished for a way to bring the best of different technologies together, for secure quality and maximum flexibility. Spinners can now access full security in quality

control, ensuring the best clearing mode is applied. The Quantum 4.0 enables this through a simple Capacitive/Optical switch. This allows greater flexibility in the types of yarn which can be produced, while also dealing with factors such as humidity variations. Intelligent sensors in tandem The capacitive and optical sensors work intelligently in tandem through an innovation known as Cross Clearing. This locates and eliminates hidden defects by means of a double check, in which the main sensor’s signal is supported by the assistance sensor. This deals with issues such as unnoticed fluff events, which might otherwise cause breaks downstream. Today’s market trends show strong demand for compact yarns. Here, spinners can trust Quantum 4.0 to tap this potential and deal with any quality issues. The density feature, for example, protects mills from substandard cops caused by ring spinning malfunctions such as blocked compacting zones, or twist problems. The Smart Duo has the advantage of monitoring yarn density continuously and after every splice. “No matter where density variations originate, be it compacting, different twist levels due to slip spindles or otherwise, Uster Quantum 4.0 takes care of it – and this is a real technical innovation,” says Katrin Hofer, Product Manager at Uster Technologies. No more material mix-ups A further valuable innovation with Quantum 4.0 is the Blend Mix-up option, which now enables mills to identify mix-ups of different types of raw materials. This long-awaited market request detects any wrong raw material in greige and white yarns, combating the infamous, but serious, barré effect in fabrics. Cop mix-ups can happen in mills, since differences are hardly visible to the human eye. But Quantum 4.0 stops the problem before it becomes an issue, thanks to significantly improved hardware and software – all underpinned by the Smart Duo. The higher processing power of the new sensors brings additional benefits such as the enhanced Continuous Core Yarn option, which detects both missing and off-center core continuously. Innovations in Quantum 4.0 also focus on contamination, with deeper analysis of polypropylene and foreign matter. A new PP classification gives users the overview of polypropylene content, while the Advanced FD classification now shows extra classes below the 5% lines. Both these features add

to the value of the contamination function, together with Total Contamination Control (TCC). Quantum 4.0 gives spinners the ultimate confidence through the intelligent interaction of capacitive and optical sensor technology. It achieves ‘one of a kind’ security levels in basic clearing, while also cutting only what’s necessary. Prevention pays off As well as identifying defects at winding, preventing defects at source is also in focus with the clearer’s new Expert System. The new Quantum Expert is now included in the product offering. Thanks to many added intelligent analytical features, the Uster Quantum Expert enhances process control and prevention of defects, through Total Contamination Control, Ring Spinning Optimization and the RSO 3D Value Module. Latest innovations in the new clearer protect spinners from claims and waste – but enabling business success is the real purpose of Quantum 4.0. Latest clearing technologies work with Uster’s unique data analysis to enable flexible data-based decisions using Application Intelligence. “Failure prevention is the key to success and tackling issues at source is the way to do it. Uster Quantum 4.0 plays an important role in this, offering options to strengthen it,” says Hofer. Secure and user-friendly The secret of true innovation is how well it is designed through to the point of user interaction. No matter how much data – in terms of quantity and different parameters – is collected for analysis, Uster Quantum Expert manages the complexity, while staying as intuitive as ever. With Quantum 4.0, a new central Smart-Limit button enhances flexibility, since operators can adjust all available smart limits with a single tap, based on the unique Yarn Body concept. Each individual limit can be simply fine-tuned as preferred. Users enjoy the established Quantum workflows and embrace the new customer-centered user interface with a 16:9 touchscreen on the 7th generation control units`. Nothing gets in the way of success with this prevention strategy. Uster recognizes that today’s challenges are tough, can be overcome with prevention, security and flexibility on your side – and Quantum 4.0 on your winding machine. February/March 2021

Fabrics of the future Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material. These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at February/March 2021

every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications. Technology and research cooperation The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion. Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through

their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes. It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems. Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels. Functional, sustainable, automated Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry. For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel. Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality

assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs. Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation. Control and productivity Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine. The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery. There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research. February/March 2021

Coats joined Science Based Target initiative (SBTi) to become a net-zero emission company by 2050

Coats has also committed to a long-term target to reach net-zero emissions by 2050, the highest level of ambition on climate under the Science-Based Target initiative (SBTi). Coats, the leading industrial thread company, has committed to set science-based emissions reduction targets across the entire value chain, consistent with keeping global warming to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, the company reports. Coats joins a growing group of leading companies paving the way to a net-zero future under the Business Ambition for 1.5°C calls to action.

Science-based targets provide companies with a clearly defined pathway to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions, thus preventing the worst expected impacts of climate change while future-proofing business growth. SBTi defines and promotes best practice in science-based target setting and independently assesses and approves companies’ targets. It collaborates between CDP, the United Nations Global Compact, World Resources Institute (WRI), and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF).

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Coats joining the SBTi follows on from it joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in January 2021. It is also a constituent of the FTSE4Good Index Series and a participant in the UN Global Compact. Coats says it is fully committed to the UN Global Compact Principles on Human Rights, Labour, the Environment and Anti-Corruption, and continues to implement these Principles in operations and across its supply chain. It also identified the most relevant UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to its business operations. It will continue to ensure that its activities are contributing towards the achievement of its sustainability goals. Sanda Ojiambo, the CEO and Executive Director of the UN Global Compact, one of the SBTi partners, said: “The climate emergency has led CEOs to act urgently and decisively to set science-based emissions reduction targets for their companies in line with a 1.5°C pathway. The movement to transition to a net-zero economy by 2050 is also growing rapidly, and we call on all business leaders to adopt concrete plans to realize this goal.”

TAKE YOUR SUSTAINABILITY CREDENTIALS TO THE NEXT LEVEL

JOIN THE ALLIANCE FOR WATER STEWARDSHIP Water pollution is not the only challenge facing the textile and apparel sector. Water scarcity and a lack of access to safe water, sanitation and hygiene (WASH) in communities are critical issues, too. Water stewardship presents an opportunity to address water issues, by going beyond company fence-lines and working with other major water users for the benefit of all.

JOIN US: A4WS.ORG/TEXTALKS

We are the Alliance for Water Stewardship: a global membership organization including businesses, NGOs and the public sector. We are custodians of the International Water Stewardship Standard (AWS Standard) – a universal framework for sustainable water use. Our vision is of a water-secure world that enables people, cultures, business and nature to prosper, now and in the future.

Devan launches range of bio-based fragrances for textiles

The range consists of Natural Lavender, Menthol, Wild Mint, a Citrus Blend and will be expanded over time

Textile innovator Devan is launching a new range of bio-based fragrances, named SceNTL®. The range uses traceable raw materials and an external lab has confirmed that the bio-content of the fragrances is above 85%. SceNTL® is a unique and wide range of encapsulated fragrances that can be integrated onto the fabric and are gradually released over time. Upon release, the fragrances appeal to the senses, promoting relaxation, wellbeing and feel-good sensations. While synthetic fragrances are composed of synthetic, man-made ingredients, natural scents and oils are created by isolating natural aroma components from raw plant materials. This also explains why every SceNTL® batch can have a slight variation in smell. As natural conditions differ from time to time, every harvest is a little different from the previous one. Although aromatherapy is still a young and understudied domain, recent studies have shown that essential oils can indeed have neurological effects. Linalool for example, a component found in Lavender and rosewood, is found to enhance sleep, while February/March 2021

Limonene, a component found in the peel of citrus fruits, is clinically proven to have an uplifting effect. At this moment, the SceNTL® range is intended for low-wash items such as mattress ticking, decorative pillows, upholstery, curtains, carpets, etc. It can also be used as a natural ‘masking scent’ for products that have a strong artificial smell caused by the production process. The company is already looking into further development of other scents and broader application use. Devan Chemicals is a worldwide developer of speciality chemicals for textiles, headquartered in Belgium and with offices in the UK, Portugal and the USA. The company was founded in 1977 and has a strong focus on innovation, research & development and sustainability. Devan is a leading innovator in the fields of protection (flame retardants), performance (odour control & stain release), thermoregulation (PCM’s and cooling technologies such as Moov&Cool®), health & wellness (aromatherapy, R-Vital™ and allergen control) and fibres and yarns (functional masterbatch technologies).

Picanol Group acquires minority stake in Rieter Holding Ag Picanol Group has acquired a minority stake in Rieter Holding AG (SWX: RIEN), amounting to a total of 467,236 shares for a price of 45.4 million EUR (or a price per share of 107.5 CHF). Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. The company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers into yarns. As a result of the transaction, Picanol Group is now holding 10% of the share capital of Rieter Holding AG. With the financial participation in Rieter Holding AG, Picanol Group wants to further diversify its activities in the textile industry and secure a stable shareholding for Rieter Holding AG in the long term. Rieter (SWX: RIEN) is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. Based in

Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover spinning preparation processes as well as all 4 end spinning processes currently established on the market. Picanol Group is a diversified industrial group and it is active worldwide in the fields of mechanical engineering, agriculture, food, energy, water management, the efficient (re)use of natural resources and other industrial markets. Picanol Group realized a consolidated turnover of 2.2 billion EUR in 2019. Picanol Group has approximately 7,000 employees worldwide and it is listed on Euronext Brussels (PIC) via Picanol nv.

YarnMaster Prisma – Precise Yarn Clearer and Loptex Exa – Accurate Sorter for Contamination Detection

Partnership extends vision for yarn contamination detection Loepfe Brothers Ltd. and Loptex SRL have announced a distinguished strategic collaboration targeted at further improving yarn quality and productivity for spinning mills. Both companies have a long track record of supporting spinning industry customers withlatest technology to improve their performance and profitability. Today, this new collaboration brings Loepfe’s YarnMaster Prisma and YarnMaster Zenit+ yarn clearers together with Loptex Exa and Centra sorters for a complete solution supplied by Loepfe. This integrated offering combines the advantages of eliminating contamination at the opening stages of production with additional refinement of the yarn further down the line at the winding stage. The net result for spinning mills is production of the highest quality yarns while generating less waste, greater machine efficiency and less energy consumption. February/March 2021

Loptex CEO Renato Gerletti commented: “We welcome this collaboration which harnesses the strengths of both the Loptex and Loepfe products for our customers. There are many synergies between the approaches of our two companies, not least of these being our dedication to using leading edge technology to deliver great results for spinning mills everywhere.” Loepfe CEO Dr. Ralph Mennicke added: “We are looking forward to working with the Loptex team. Next to our in-house R&D commitments, this is a complementary partnership that puts customer needs first and will deliver a vital combination of top quality and greater productivity to textile mills. As the industry emerges from one of the most difficult trading periods in living memory, we continue to be committed to rolling out new and innovative solutions over the months and years to come.”

Articles

Role of Education in the Revival Pakistan’s Textile Industry Professor Dr Tahir Shah, PhD, FTI, FRSC (UK)

Textile and clothing industry is the most important sector of Pakistan’s economy with around 60% share in the country’s annual exports and accounting for 8% of country’s GDP and more than 40% of the industrial workforce. Pakistan is ranked 5th in the world for cotton production and 3rd in cotton yarn production. The fact is that the Pakistan textile industry, which was once a fast developing and lucrative national industrial sector, is now in perpetual decline and is facing considerable challenges. The reasons for this deterioration in the national state of the textile industry are manifold but here we shall mention only some of the main issues and challenges that have plagued the industry. The first issue is February/March 2021

related to the global perception of the Pakistani textile industry, which is worsening, except for a few manufacturers and exporters of textile products that have maintained good product quality and service standards. International importers of Pakistani textile products are often hesitant to place repeat orders with Pakistani suppliers. The main reasons for this are the variation in the consistency and the quality of the textile products and non-adherence to the agreed time frames for the delivery of the goods. This is directly related to the shortage of skilled and appropriately qualified manpower and obsolete production

machinery. The situation is deteriorating as many of the capable employees are leaving the textile industry due to the prevalent uncertainty related to the future of the industry. The other important reasons for the decline in the textile industry are the lack of efficiency, low product innovation, non-enterprising environment and obsolete management practices. A strong need to make advances One of the major issues, which the textile industry must tackle, is its almost total reliance on cotton fibre. Cotton may be the most popular textile fibre due to its abundant availability and desirable properties, however, if we examine critically, the regular cotton is one of the least sustainable and environmentally favourable fibres. Its cultivation requires a considerable amount of water, pesticides, fertilizer, labour and land. Furthermore, processing of cotton-based textile products requires large quantities of water, chemicals, dyes and bleaches. For countries that are water-stressed, such as Pakistan, cotton production may become unsustainable not too far in the future. Additionally, the quality of Pakistani cotton is not amongst the best in the world. We must look seriously into the development and use of other cellulosic fibres, such lyocell, which can replace the regular cotton fibre. However, the first step in this direction could be to develop a focus on the production of organic cotton, which does not require the use of harmful chemicals such as fertilizers or pesticides. Hemp and Jute fibres can also be good natural alternatives to cotton, if an appropriate focus is placed on the cultivation and development of these fibres that are much more sustainable than cotton. With efforts of the National Textile University, the Government has legalised controlled cultivation of fibre grade Hemp in the country. This may be the first step towards the development of a sustainable natural textile fibre, which could play an important role in the progress of the textile sector in Pakistan. Another daunting challenge that the Pakistani textile industry will face in the near future is related to the China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC). The CPEC project is mainly related to the development of transport infrastructure such as roads, bridges, ports and railways, and energy projects such as gas pipelines and power plants. However, China is also adding a considerable new textile production and export capability to its already very sizeable textile production capacity. Many of these developments are taking place in the Chinese provinces next to Pakistan. It is therefore vital that the Pakistani textile industry modernises and develops strategies and

capabilities - with the help of the appropriate Governmental organisations, to compete and prosper in consideration of the CPEC developments. The textile industry must modernise in terms of textile production technologies, well-qualified and trained manpower, and the ability to innovate and diversify the product range. The industrial organisations in the textiles and other related sectors in Pakistan must improve the production efficiency and the quality of their products if they are to succeed in the face of the growing regional and global competition. In the future, the traditional textile industry in Pakistan must evolve in terms of time-to-market, flexibility, product quality, productivity and resource efficiency. The industry must also move towards more promising and emerging textile technologies, which include but are not limited to nonwovens; technical textiles; coatings; micro-encapsulations; enzyme; plasma; laser; ultrasound; ultraviolet treatments; spraying; ink jet techniques; nanotechnology (processes on the nanometre scale); three dimensional (3D) printing, and integration of ICT with textile structures for the development of interactive textiles. Planning for a competitive future However, the government and other stakeholders will need to develop appropriate strategies at the national level for the development and promotion of technical textiles and other high-value textile products that will have a considerable impact on the export revenue of the country. The textile industry needs to make a planned shift from the commodity products to the knowledge-based speciality products, oriented towards niche market segments to avoid fierce commodity price competition. Moreover, the industry should also move steadily from mass production to customisation, which will require, among other things, better capturing, understanding and managing customer needs and preferences. Sophisticated CAD and virtual prototyping solutions, flexible customized production systems, intelligent logistics, IoT, and internet-based communication systems between manufacturers, distributors and end-users must be developed and adopted by the national textile sector. There is another important area of futuristic perception to be considered by the textile educationists and the industry – the advent of machine learning and robotics, which will have a strong impact on all aspects of our lives. Textile production will not be immune to this fast-growing automation because of February/March 2021

the need for reproducible product quality and reducing the cost of production. The industry must be ready to adapt to this change and assess how many new jobs will be created and displaced due to the various levels of automation. Readying a new generation of experts A comprehensive study on the socio-economic impact of automation in the textile industry can provide valuable data for the government agencies and the industrial organisations for planning the way forward and determine optimum levels of automation required in this highly labour intensive sector of the country. The universities must also develop courses, training programmes and research portfolios to enable the industry to prepare and meet the current and future challenges related to automation. It is important to understand that any stagnant system or organisation that does not keep the pace with the changing needs of the time is bound to fail and cease to exist because the way we learn and work is always evolving. We must create the environment in which the ability of the students and workers to learn, grow and perform in the fast-changing world is enhanced. Therefore, universities must prepare the students and researchers with the skills and knowledge they will need not just today but also for the future requirements of highly ‘intelligent’ and automated working environments. The teaching courses must be designed according to the needs of the industry and must be flexible, innovative and interdisciplinary in content and mode of delivery. This can be achieved by engaging the students and researchers in a modern, entrepreneurial and innovative environment. The economic prosperity and social wellbeing of a February/March 2021

country are very much dependent upon the strength and sustainability of the wealth-producing businesses. As stated earlier, Pakistani businesses, particularly in the textile sector, are confronting tough challenges in the face of increasing global competition. There is a need for innovation in product development and increase corporate efficiency. There must be a strong focus on securing, retaining and developing talent amongst the workforce. A thriving knowledge-based national economy depends upon the outputs of the universities – the entrepreneurial culture that is developed amongst its graduates and the application and utilisation of the research outputs. Academia must work hand-in-hand with the corporate sector to identify the requirements of the industry for the type of courses and research programmes that are needed in order to create graduates, researchers and technologists who can then understand and solve the wide-ranging and complex issues faced by the textile industry. National Textile University (NTU) is the only federal university in Pakistan that is dedicated to textile education and research. The University has served well to provide adequate facilities for the delivery of training and teaching programs for many decades, and has played a key role in the provision of the educated human resource to Pakistan’s Textile Industry. Now the University must move to the next level of progress in order to deliver education and research & development programmes that are fit for the future and will help the Pakistan’s textile industry modernise and compete in the international market. It must be part of the NTU’s vision to create a culture and environment in which innovation and commercialisation of its research can play a very

significant role in the future developments in the textile industry and other related sectors. In the fast-changing world and in view of the considerable challenges faced by the national textile industry, the academia must help and support the industry in addressing these issues and offer a way forward for the revival of, and development of an enterprising and prosperous textile sector in Pakistan. For this purpose, the National Textile University needs to establish a purpose-built, modern and state of the art campus in order to provide the environment and facilities, where innovative and entrepreneurial graduates and researchers, with the appropriate knowledge, skills, and leadership capabilities can thrive. The qualified workforce can then help industrial organisations to address the challenges and succeed in a highly competitive global textile marketplace. The establishment of a world-class campus will also encourage international students and faculty to study and work at the university. Leading Pakistan’s textile revolution It is important to attract talented and bright students to textile education by offering them a modern and attractive study environment and high-quality purposeful courses, leading to excellent employment opportunities and prospects. The textile industry in Pakistan must modernise by investing in the new technologies and well-qualified workforce. It must be emphasised that education is a fundamental necessity to increase the economic proficiency and wellbeing of a society, as it adds tremendous value to the efficiency of the workforce, and helps to create a knowledge-based economy, which is the key for the establishment of a sustainable, progressive and competitive textile industry. The National Textile University has been making a valuable contribution to the education and training of the staff for the textile industry for many decades, and now it must provide the facilities and environment that are required to create the graduates, researchers and technologist of the future. NTU is probably the only national university in the world that has its fundamental focus in the field of textiles. The revival of the national textile industry is an absolute necessity as it is the most important sector for the economic security of the country and only through the provision of world-class education and research can we build a strong and knowledge-based world-leading textile industry in Pakistan.

Reports

The Pandemic Era and Innovations in Knitting Despite difficulties in the machinery market because of the Pandemic, knitting technology manufacturers still innovate and help their customers provide value. Highlights of the knitting inventions are:

of a new thread fluctuation control system positioned on every second feeder. A controlled air stream maintains constant yarn tension, especially at high revolutions per minute, which helps avoid thread loops and dropped stitches.

OVJA 2.4 EM circular knitting machine by German based Mayer & Cie Company is ready for the market. The fully electronic model is designed for mattress

OVJA 1.6 EE/2 WT double jersey jacquard machine by Mayer & Cie also offers multi-colored designs and

cover fabrics with high output and a wide pattern variety. This ready-for-market version builds on the model introduced during ITMA 2019 with the addition

microstructure elements, including tuck structures and spacer fabrics. The machine features three-way electronic needle selection in the cylinder and

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two-way technology in the rib dial. When special needles are employed, the device can knit yarns up to 1,200 denier in gauges as coarse as E16. Applications include mattress covers, upholstery, transportation seat covers, shoe uppers, and outerwear. RD 7/2-6 EN double needle bar raschel machine by Karl Mayer offers some new technologies for the knitting sector. According to the company, the new device offers up to 30-percent higher speed than its

predecessor, the RD 7/2-12 EN. The machine can knit 3D fabrics using a trick plate distance of 2 to 6 millimeters. Its EN pattern drive and maximum shogging movement of 1 inch allow patterning variety with up to 12,000 stitch repeats. The machine is available in working widths of 138 and 77 inches in gauges E 18, E 22 and E 24. Fabrics may be used for footwear, clothing, and mattress applications. HKS 3-M ON by Karl Mayer is one of the first machines connected with its digital solutions. The machine can directly download pattern data from the KM.ON secure cloud and does not need to use pattern disks, which allows for easy pattern changes found with EL gears at the speeds associated with N pattern drives. According to the company, the machine recently

was issued in a wider working width of 300 inches for wider or side-by-side production and is up to 15 percent faster than its predecessor. Karl Mayer offers three interchangeable options for purchasing lappings for the HKS 3-M ON, SwapKnit 36, and SwapKnit 36 Flat for designs up to 36 stitch courses, as well as a variant developed for pattern repeats of more than 36 stitch courses. Patterns for the machines are downloaded from Karl Mayer’s Webshop Spare Parts and loaded on the knitting machine for fast and flexible pattern changes. According to Karl Mayer, the hybrid unit combines the patterning possibilities of a typical N and EL pattern drive in a single knitting machine. February/March 2021

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DNB/600-2B by Jakob Müller Group company Comez International is a high-speed mechanical double needle bed machine for warp knitting. The machine has been designed for the mass production of items, including earloops for masks and sportswear accessories. The low stitch density

required for such articles and the high operating speed of the machine equates to very high productivity, according to Comez. Equipped with two mechanically controlled guide bars, the DNB/600-2B can process all yarn types into double face fabric structures. A compact design and reduced working width result in fast changeovers. DNB/EL-32-12B by Comez International was first introduced at ITMA 2019. The electronically controlled warp knitting machine is designed for sample production using any yarn in all possible gauges on a single, compact unit. Items produced using the DNB/EL-32-12B include technical textiles,

medical textiles, shoe uppers, and apparel textiles. The machine has 12 guide bars. An electronic long-throw device with a stroke capacity of 560 millimeters allows more advanced technical fabrics to be produced, such as reinforced fabrics, fabrics

with continuous weft insertion, and technical furnishing fabrics. 800 ACO/EL by Comez International is a crochet knitting machine that features compound needles, electronically controlled yarn tension, and stitch density regulation. Comez reports the machine is suitable for the production of elastic and rigid fabric and tapes. It is ideal for products requiring a

lock-stitch structure, such as medical and orthopedic textiles. The machine is equipped with eight weft bars and is available with an 800-mm working width. SAN™ SF needle by Germany-based Groz-Beckert KG is a new product in the market. The particular application needle is used for knitting staple fiber yarns with increased fiber fly on large diameter

circular knitting machines. The SAN SF needle and SNK SF sinker were designed to reduce dirt accumulation and extend required cleaning intervals to minimize machine downtime. The staple fiber needle features a closed shank on the back of the needle, and cushions to support the cylinder walls. According to the company, the needle also enhances uniform loop structure. February/March 2021

Sustainability was the highlights of Taipei Fashion Week Taipei Fashion Week AW 21 launched "Taipei Sustainable Collections" that centered around sustainability. Taipei Fashion Week is Asia's first one-day joint show centered around sustainability. The showcase highlighted Taiwan's continued innovation in eco-friendly and sustainable textile and fabric development including, but not limited to, water and energy-saving solution dye techniques and fabrics and textiles created from post-consumer PET bottles, recycled scrap tires, fish scales, and oyster shells. Taipei Fashion Week's sponsorship by the Taiwan government emphasizes an increasing dedication to protecting the environment and changing the fashion industry by combining innovative manufacturing power with emerging designers' visions. Taipei Sustainable Collections is a platform for young February/March 2021

designers who balance care for the environment with a humanity-first approach to design to find the intersection of style, innovation, and social responsibility. Various brands with existing sustainable practices will utilize these textiles and fabrics to create new concepts and raise awareness, demonstrating how the link between the local textile industry and fashion designers can write a new chapter in Made-in-Taiwan style. Participating brands include DAMUR, Claudia Wang, DYCTEAM, JUST IN XX, oqLiq, and WEAVISM. The highlights included: Claudia Wang utilized 3D virtual technology to minimize waste and present a pattern of eco-friendly designs made from fish scale yarn, biodegradable light fabrics, and recycled nylon. The DYCTEAM collection featured recycled materials, eco-friendly processed natural cotton, reusable three-layered nylon, down alternatives, and biodegradable insulation layers reinvented in the brand's image. DAMUR showed Taiwan's latest metallic membrane and lamination technology to combine bold design with a realistic epidemic prevention context. JUST IN XX presented recycled fabrics transformed from plastic bottles, industrial wastes, and non-toxic remade fabrics to showcase Taiwanese craftsmanship through crocheting and laser-cutting fabric scraps for his Taiwan Olympic uniform. oqLiq has previously explored new fabric technologies and design applications, including leather made by dam sediment and multifunctional materials made from oyster shell powder mixed with plastic pellets created from recycled PET bottles. WEAVISM has woven functional fabrics out of unconventional natural materials such as beeswax and banana leaves, where clothes can merge with the earth after being buried in the soil. February/March 2021

Recycling fibers from garment waste into technical textiles Pureko to install a new Andritz eXcelle needle-punching line for the recycling of garments. Founded in 2009, Pureko is one of the most important producers of nonwovens in Poland. The company’s nonwoven products are mainly used for wadding; they are free of chemicals, do not involve any health hazards, and are hypoallergenic. Pureko’s products carry top certificates such as INTERTEK, FIRA, OEKO-TEX, and the National Institute of Hygiene. The final products will have fabric weights ranging from 300-500 gsm, and production capacity will be up to 750 kg/h. Installation and start-up are scheduled for the third quarter of 2021. This is the second ANDRITZ line to be supplied to Pureko, thus demonstrating the strong partnership between both companies. Three years ago, Pureko invested in a new, modern plant supplied by ANDRITZ Asselin-Thibeau to produce soft nonwovens in the furniture, textile, and clothing industries. The new line will enable Pureko to continue its ongoing growth.

Color Max won the best product for ISPO 2021/22 sports category Grand Textile specializes in functional fabrics and knits for sportswear, outdoor, and baselayers presented a nylon & spandex fabric combining different yarns and treated with the patented "Color Max" finish. Due to the different yarns on the face side, the color is absorbed differently during the dyeing process. The result is a unique pattern and color combination. The Color Max finish is currently manufactured exclusively in Taiwan. The fabric was awarded the best product for fall/winter 2021/22 at the ISPO Textrends in the category of street sports. Besides, Grand Textile focuses on sustainability: for example, the company expands the share of recycled polyester yarns, and all chemicals are bluesign approved. In 2020, approximately 7.5 million meters of recycled poly fabrics were produced, an increase of 80 percent compared to the previous year. The introduced functional fabric is made by a special dyeing process, with a unique pattern, and can be applied to any material, maintaining the fabric's original soft hand. February/March 2021

FabBRICK: An innovative company converting textile waste into beautiful bricks

Textile waste is a big problem around the globe. In France, it's estimated to be around 4 million tons, and that's just a fraction of what gets tossed globally; it was 17 million tons in the United States three years ago. Very little of that discarded clothing is collected for reuse or recycling, less than a third in France, and half of that (15%) in the U.S. Clarisse Merlet, a French architecture, came up with the idea for FabBRICK, her award-winning company that makes decorative and insulative bricks out of old clothes. The basic component of the bricks is shredded clothing, which Merlet purchases pre-ground from a supplier in Normandy. Each brick uses the equivalent of two to three T-shirts' worth of material and, any kind can be used, including cotton, polyester, elastane, PVC, etc. The scraps are mixed

with an ecological glue that Merlet developed herself, then pressed into a brick mold. This mold uses mechanical compression to form the bricks, so it requires no energy beyond what a human worker needs to press it down. The wet bricks are removed from the mold and set out to dry for two weeks before using. At FabBRICK all creations are thought out and handcrafted in workshop in the heart of Paris. Since the creation at the end of 2018, the company had already designed more than 40,000 bricks which represent 12 tons of recycled textiles. Three machines have been developed to make the project bigger. The latest version has been duplicated five times, to be able to increase the production capacity. The next step is to industrialize the manufacturing process so that we will be able to recycle even more textile waste. February/March 2021

DSM introduces bio-based Arnitel® for lower carbon footprint Royal DSM has announced mass-balanced bio-based Arnitel ® for lower carbon footprint to boosting its sustainability campaign. In this new range, a thermoplastic elastomer has been mixed with Sympatex Technologies. DSM’s bio-based Arnitel is manufactured with bio-based feedstock using a mass-balance approach*. The end product contains more than 25% bio-based content by weight.

Sympatex uses Arnitel to manufacture its waterproof, windproof, and breathable membranes for sports applications. The transition to bio-based feedstock will maintain the unique functional properties of Arnitel and will enable Sympatex to easily shift to a more sustainable solution with a lower carbon footprint without having to requalify materials. Shruti Singhal, President DSM Engineering Materials, said: “I’m very proud that DSM is helping lead the transition to a circular economy by offering an increasing range of bio-based alternatives to our portfolio. This builds on our extensive experience developing sustainable solutions, in line with our purpose of creating brighter lives for all. And, by working with our partners across the value chain, we’ll keep driving sustainability in our industry to new levels and contribute to delivering a better future.”

New antimicrobial bed clothing with Polygiene's technology After a very successful first Kickstarter campaign, Polygiene's partner Nordifakt is back on Kickstarter, and this time, they are bringing their efforts into the bedroom. They have created bacteria-free bedding using Polygiene Biostatic technology that inhibits the growth of odorcausing bacteria and will enable you to use more, wash less and save time. Nordifakt says that bedding is treated with Polygiene®. It is one of the most advanced and sustainable silver fabric treatments available. The treatment consists of a low concentration of recycled silver salt (silver chloride), which is naturally found in both water and soil, effectively getting rid of bacteria, fungi, and other microbes. The treatment is applied at the finishing stages of the textile production, and field and lab tests show that it lasts the entire life-cycle of your bedding. There is no interference with bacteria naturally occurring on the skin - the February/March 2021

technology is active only on the material's surface. It does not interfere with bacteria naturally found on the skin. There is no identified risk from dermal and oral contact with silver treatments. Polygiene® is not a nanosilver. Nordifakt's Christianshavn bedding is made in 100% organic cotton, and OEKO-TEX® certified. Our technology partner Polygiene® is both OEKO-TEX® and Bluesign® certified. Nordifakt knows that eco-friendly and technology can go hand in hand. Eco-friendly does not mean we need to go back to horse-drawn carriage technologies to protect the environment. Instead, Nordifakt is finding ways to use technology positively, to improve and make the home textiles we surround ourselves with healthier, more efficient, and smarter. Nordifakt uses eco-technology to create products that help the environment by the concept; use more, wash less -saving both water and CO2.

Flexible, breathable, and durable electronic textile

Researchers at Fudan University, China, have developed flexible, breathable, and durable textile material. According to Professor Huisheng Peng of Fudan's Department of Macromolecular Engineering, the new material is ideal for practical uses. Weaving conductive weft and luminescent warp fibers forms micrometer-scale electroluminescent units at the weft–warp contact points. The brightness between electroluminescent units deviates by less than 8 percent and remains stable even when the textile is bent, stretched, or pressed. As the light-emitting fibers' diameter can be precisely adjusted between 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm, clothing woven with it can be ultra-fine and ultra-flexible. Fabrics will fit the human body's irregular contours and can be as light and breathable as ordinary fabric. The researchers incorporated a touch-sensitive 16-button fabric keyboard, solar-energy-harvesting threads, and battery fibers into their textile to add interactivity and a power supply. They added electronics to wirelessly link it to a smartphone via a Bluetooth connection so users could send and receive messages on their sleeves and see

real-time locations on a map. After 1,000 cycles of bending, stretching, and pressing, the vast majority of electroluminescent units' performance remained stable. Besides, the brightness of the electroluminescent units remained stable after 100 cycles of washing and drying. Electronic textiles capable of communicating, sensing, and supplying electricity have been reported previously. However, textiles with functional, large-area displays have not yet been achieved because it is challenging to obtain small illuminating units that are both durable and easy to assemble over a wide area. Professor Peng said that "With the integration of more functionality, we expect these smart textiles to shape the next generation of electronic communication tools. We have shown that an integrated textile system consisting of a display, keyboard, and power supply can serve as a communication tool, demonstrating the system's potential within the 'internet of things in various areas, including healthcare. Our approach unifies the fabrication and function of electronic devices with textiles."

February/March 2021

M&S set high sustainability standards in denim M&S introduces a new sustainability standard for denim that centers on better sourcing cotton, finishing, and dyeing. The action plan falls in line with Plan A, the company’s framework for a safer and more inclusive workforce, better products, and reduced impact on the environment. According to the standards, all cotton used for all M&S clothing will be responsibly sourced. Through the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the majority helps farmers reduce their water usage and increase their profits. In the wash process, M&S is reducing its water intake by using technologies by sustainable finishing tech firm Jeanologia. M&S is also committed to switching out standard indigo dyes for cleaner alternatives that are safer for people and the planet and require less water and chemicals to produce.

Monique Leeuwenburgh, head of product technology for M&S clothing and home, said, “Denim is a wardrobe staple for our customers, but we know now more than ever they want style where sustainability is built in as standard. By taking collaborative action with our denim suppliers, we can give our customers the confidence that every pair of M&S jeans they buy for the family are not only stylish, great quality, and fantastic value, but have been responsibly made too.” M&S has started switching all denim to more sustainable indigo dyes, including nearly 50 percent of the new range, which also uses 86 percent less water than the industry average for denim finishing and 100 percent responsibly sourced cotton. M&S has brought the new sustainability features to life in its Spring/Summer marketing campaign.

Protective nonwovens for maximum safety amid COVID-19 Piana Group has introduced their patented fiber treatment technology to provide maximum protection regarding viruses and microbes. The innovative Piana Protection technology enables any textile or porous surface to be protected with a durable antiviral and antibacterial treatment. The solution relies upon advanced silver chemistry and patented Piana fiber treatment processes that ensure efficacy within minutes of contact. Independent laboratory tests have shown a 99.8% reduction in viral activity in the first 30 minutes and 99.995% viral reduction after one hour. This new technology is highly versatile and will soon be integrated into a host of other consumer products including pillows, mattress toppers, filtration and seating applications. The proprietary antiviral and antimicrobial solution is February/March 2021

pending approval by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Piana Group products are manufactured using patented, ecologically sound manufacturing processes and are 100% recyclable, minimizing and reusing waste through its highly transparent, eco-friendly operations in Cartersville, GA, and San Luis, AZ. Piana Group is the 439-year-old textile company known for breakthrough chemical treatment innovations for fiber and nonwoven textiles in automotive, appliance and bedding markets. Piana Protection fiber technology is currently specified for use in face masks which are pending final approval by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and will be available in the market in Spring 2021.

Naveena Denim to develop denim fabrics featuring the new bio-based Dyneema Naveena Denim, Karachi, Pakistan, has an exclusive agreement to develop denim fabrics featuring the new bio-based Dyneema. By adding a small percentage, less than 10% of Dyneema to fabrics, the abrasion resistance by 100%, when compared with 100% cotton denim fabrics. Dyneema is an ultra High-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) that is many times stronger than steel and its ability to replace steel has, for example, resulted in ropes that have 75% less weight, with all of the advantages that brings in terms of towing, mooring, anchoring etc. In addition, ropes made from the fiber have ten times the working life of steel equivalents. In traditional Dyneema production, the polymer is dissolved in a solvent and then spun through spinnerets in a proprietary process. Successively, the spun solution is solidified by cooling, which fixes a molecular structure which contains a very low entanglement density of molecular chains. This structure gives an extremely high draw ratio and results in the fiber’s extremely high strength. The solidified fiber has a gel-like appearance and contains an almost 100% crystalline structure with perfectly arranged molecules, which promotes its extremely high strength, modulus, and other properties. Rashid Iqbal, executive director at Naveena Denim, said, “We have been partners with DSM since 2015 and together we have produced some of the most durable and strong denims for workwear groups and motorcyclists in Europe and the USA. We share common values when it comes to sustainability and sustainability starts with the enhanced durability of the denim.” Peto Verdaasdonk, application development specialist at DSM, said, “We are in a unique position because we are the only ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber produced in the world that is backward integrated. This means we have been able to work with our raw material suppliers and arranged that they replace oil-based materials with renewable feedstock. This further enhances the carbon footprint of the fiber.” February/March 2021

Purissimo: A natural allergen control technology for textiles Purissimo is allergen control technology produced by Devan of Ronse Belgium. The new finish has been found effective against allergens from pollen. The technology had already been proven to significantly reduce the number of allergens from house dust mites and pets. Inactive probiotics as spores are encapsulated and integrated into the textiles. Friction opens the microcapsules and releases the spores which absorb humidity and self-activate and are then transformed into probiotic bacteria that start to consume the allergens. Pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies in the United States. Pollen is a very fine powder produced by trees, flowers, grasses, and weeds to fertilize other plants of the same species. Many people have an adverse immune response when they breathe in pollen. The immune system normally defends the body against harmful invaders, such as viruses and bacteria, to ward off illnesses. In people with pollen allergies, the immune system mistakenly identifies the harmless pollen as a dangerous intruder. It February/March 2021

begins to produce chemicals to fight against the pollen. This is known as an allergic reaction, and the specific type of pollen that causes it is known as an allergen. Sofie Depluverez, PhD researcher at Devan, said, “Allergens are small protein molecules, which can cause allergic reactions and asthma. All allergy sufferers are different when it comes to their sensitivity to allergens, but few people are only allergic to a single allergen and the effects of multiple allergens can add up. The key to reducing and even eliminating symptoms is to reduce your exposure to the allergens themselves. As time goes by, the various allergens start to build up inside the house, certainly when ventilation is limited. As the allergen concentration increases – especially in combination with seasonal allergens such as pollen, the allergy threshold may be reached if no allergen reduction measures are in place. As the probiotics consume the allergens, exposure is gradually reduced to below threshold levels. Therefore, individuals with respiratory allergies will be exposed to fewer attacks.”

Recycling breakthrough: Researchers have successfully converted cotton into Spandex and Nylon

So far, recycling cotton means converting into other cotton products. What if we could recycle cotton into Nylon and Spandex? Is it possible? The answer is a big YES! Researchers from Sweden’s Lund University have found a way to convert cotton into sugar, which in turn can be made into spandex, nylon, or ethanol. Edvin Ruuth is working at the Department of Chemical Engineering in Lund. There is a great deal of information about using micro-organisms and enzymes to transform the “tougher” carbohydrates in biomass into simpler molecules. This means that everything from biological waste and black liquor to straw and wood chips can become bioethanol, biogas and chemicals. In the new research, scientists have succeeded in breaking down the plant fiber in cotton, the cellulose, into smaller components. However, no micro-organisms or enzymes are involved. Instead, the process involves soaking the fabrics in sulphuric acid. The result is a clear, dark, amber-colored sugar solution. The researchers started making glucose out of fabrics a year ago, the return was a paltry three to four per cent. Now he and his colleagues have reached as much as 90 per cent. Once the recipe formulation is complete, it will be both relatively simple and cheap to use. However, for the process to become a reality, the logistics must work. There is currently no established way of managing and sorting various textiles that are not sent to ordinary clothing donation points. Fortunately, a recycling center unlike any other in the world is currently under construction in Malmö, where clothing is sorted automatically using a sensor. Some clothing will be donated, rags can be used in industry and textiles with sufficiently coarse fibers can become new fabrics. The rest will go to district heating. Hopefully, the proportion of fabrics going to district heating will be significantly smaller once the technology from Lund is in place. From a normal sheet, they extract five liters of sugar solution, with each liter containing the equivalent of 33 sugar cubes. However, you couldn’t turn the liquid into a soft drink as it also contains corrosive sulphuric acid. Ruuth said, “What makes cotton unique is that its cellulose has a high crystallinity. This makes it difficult to break down the chemicals and reuse their components. In addition, there are a lot of surface treatment substances, dyes and other pollutants which must be removed. And structurally, a terrycloth towel and an old pair of jeans are very different. Thus it is a very delicate process to find the right concentration of acid, the right number of treatment stages and temperature.” February/March 2021

ITMA ASIA + CITME International Textile Machinery exhibition June 12-16, 2021 Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

GTex International B2B textile machinery, chemical and accessories brand expo June 19-21, 2021 Venue: Expo Centre Karachi, Pakistan.

Heimtextil 2022 Int'l event for interior textiles, interior design and interior trends January 11-14, 2022 Venue: Messe Frankfurt, Germany.

Index World’s leading non-woven exhibition September 07-10, 2020 Venue: Geneva, Switzerland.

ITM 2022 International Textile Machinery exhibition June 14-18, 2022 Venue: TÜYAP Center, Istanbul, Turkey.

International Conference on Textiles

Inspiring Change Conference An international conference on textiles-Innovations and sustainable solutions September 13-14, 2021 Venue: Lahore, Pakistan.

IGATEX Pakistan The 13th International Garment, Textile Machinery exhibition September 15-18, 2021 Venue: Expo Centre Lahore, Pakistan.

February/March 2021

FESPA Global Print Expo Leading trade fair for screen, digital and textile printing October 12-15, 2021 Venue: Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Techtextil 2022 Int'l event for technical textiles and nonwovens June 21-24, 2022 Venue: Messe Frankfurt, Germany.

ITMA 2023 World’s leading textile and garment technology platform June 08-14, 2023 Venue: Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy.

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TEXtalks International:February-March 2021

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