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LIFESTYLE & DINING | ARTS & CULTURE | MAKERS & MERCHANTS

issue no. 4


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TABLE OF CONTE FEATURE 14

DOWNTOWN 23

MENS FASHION Three vintage bikes, three stylish riders, and the open road to El Reno. Oh, and the sky. One must never forget the main character in any Oklahoma landscape. This fall, men’s fashion tries to decide between rough and Brit posh. It’s the stuff of legends: Quadrophenia, The Kinks, The Stones all played with this tension a generation ago. What can Oklahoma add?

HIGHS AND LOWS After a rocky start, two of Downtown's landmark restaurants benefit from bold new management. + Strong Spirits, The Future is Now, Sinless Snacks

Photographer Josh Welch, stylists Courtney Ann and Chelsey Ann, and a crew of talented creatives hit the open road to find out. cover photo: Josh Welch, leather jacket: Wunder Leathers at Weldon Jack

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MIDTOWN 33 VET TO HOMELESS PETS Dr. Leonardo Baez of Midtown Vets provides services free of charge to companion animals of the homeless. + Japanese Soul Food and The Rhythm of OKC


ENTS UPTOWN/PASEO 49

POINTS NORTH 71

TURNING THE TIDE A Good Egg opens Oklahoma City's first oyster bar and changes the metro's seafood landscape for the better. + Style, Truly; Peeping History; and Gun Bae!

WE CREATED IT, WE CAN SOLVE IT Maria Latham started an animal rescue organization that focuses on increasing the state's live release rate. + Bourbon Trails and Beer Tales and Poppin’ Bottles

WESTERN AVE 63

BACKSIDE 80

THAT'S THE WAY IT CAN BE NonDoc launches a news site to deliver nonpartisan reporting to OKC. + Men and the Art of Motorcycle Congruence and Taking You to Marrakesh

GOODS FROM LAND AND SKY An Oklahoma hunter talks about filling the table with game during bird season.

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w w w.nai feh f i nejewel r y.com


photo by John Clayton Taylor

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Courtney Ann and I were driving through the lush, voluptuous farmland between Oklahoma City and El Reno. Earlier in the year, she styled a fashion shoot for Latin American Esquire. In a few days, she would be spending a week with the largest online retailer, who was trying to recruit her. But as twilight started to burnish the sky, this Oklahoma-born stylist was having a moment. Up ahead, photographer Josh Welch and crew sped towards the spot where wind turbines hummed strangely among bales of hay like enormous tuning forks. The waning sun illuminated the road dust kicked up by three vintage bikes ahead, and silhouetted them against a golden haze. “I’m having a home love moment,” said Courtney Ann, quietly. “I’m feeling very Oklahoma right now and I’ve never felt that before. I feel super proud.” Serendipity brought this issue’s cover story to us. Courtney totaled her new car as she was driving from Oklahoma back to LA. She suddenly had a week to kill, and we had been dying to work with her. Everyone got busy. This is Territory’s first fashion story, and we could not have asked for better inspiration than our riders, Jerrod Smith, Todd Woodruff, and Josh Hannum. I’m inspired by the way vintage bikes show up around Jerrod. They sit like sculpture at his Weldon Jack men’s provisioner, when not being ridden. The care he takes in participating in bike culture reminds me of my father. My dad was a BMW motorcycle mechanic, and tended to them with a constancy bordering on obsession. Jerrod kindly gathered his friends and away we went towards El Reno. Another coincidence bears mention. Last summer, as temperatures ratcheted beyond 100 degrees for days, two sweet pups were trying to survive in a bush in the Paseo. They approached with tales wagging, and I called the city shelter thinking they’d be fed and soon adopted. (We’ve already taken in two strays.) I called a couple of days later to sponsor them, and the pit bull had already been euthanized. His Rottweiler pal was soon to follow. Page 71 tells the rest. Normally we wouldn’t run two animal welfare stories in the same issue. But the need, and the stories, are too important to wait. There are many ways to help these amazing Oklahomans who are trying to make it better for all beings. Veronica Pasfield, Editor editorial@territoryokc.com 9


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Published by Territory Media, LLC 3017 N. Lee Ave., Ste A, Oklahoma City, OK 73103 territoryokc.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Trey McNeill, Publisher

JOSH WELCH

trey@territoryokc.com

Josh fell in love with photography in Mexico about five years ago. My passion for photography led me to traveling the country with my friends and photographing all sorts of interesting bands and people including Yoko Ono and the Flaming Lips. That led me to leave the practice of law to focus on my passion for photography.

Veronica Pasfield, Editor editorial@territoryokc.com Cheryl Dillard, Operations & Development Director cheryl@territoryokc.com Bayley Jackson, Art Director

EMILY ANN HUGHES

bayley.jackson@gmail.com

Emily is a wedding, portrait, and editorial photographer with a passion for film, natural light, and the authentic, intimate moments of life. She combines a documentary and fine art style to provide beautiful and classic images. She has lived in Oklahoma City for four years and loves working with its growing community.

Daren Shepherd, Art Director daren@shepherdgraphics.net Kara Kennedy, Advertising Account Executive kara@territoryokc.com Skyler Munday, Makers Workshop Coordinator

MARY GRAY

skyler@territoryokc.com

Poet Mary B. Gray was born and raised in Lawton and received two degrees from the University of Oklahoma. She has been published in Ain’t Nobody That Can Sing Like Me: New Oklahoma Writing. An Oklahoma City resident, Mary is an active member of Deep Deuce Writing Society.

Greg Horton, Vicar of Editorial Michelle Bui, Social Media Consultant Chad Reynolds, Poetry Editor Robb Lindsey, Spirits Columnist

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Double Wedding Ring Quilt, 1940. Pieced cotton plain weave top, cotton plain weave back and binding; quilted. Gift of the Pilgrim / Roy Collection, 2014.1945. Photograph Š 2015 Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

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photography by Josh Welch fashion styling by Courtney Ann make-up by Chelsey Ann shot in and around El Reno, Oklahoma quotes by motorcycle maker Shinya Kimura


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Major thanks to the following retailers, who provided the fashion in these pages. Black Optical Classen Curve blackoptical.com The Clad Stache Available at Weldon Jack and online thecladstache.com The Consortium Nichols Hills Plaza theconsortiumok.com Spencer Stone Nichols Hills Plaza spencerstoneco.com The Factory Broadway at 10th shopthefactoryokc.com Weldon Jack N. Western Ave at 36th weldonjack.com More detailed credits on our website: territoryokc.com It takes a village to put together a fashion shoot. Sincerest thanks to our collaborators, most who volunteered or participated for far less than their talents are worth. Riders: Jerrod Smith, Josh Hannum, and Todd Woodruff. Photo assistants: Ethan Hickerson, Taylor Hanna, Miles Mixon, and Bayley Jackson. Huge thanks to the kind folks in El Reno, Oklahoma: Victoria Lee at Junkyard Diva, Billie Wilds, Iron Tree coffeeshop, Oklahoma Vintage Guitar, and the El Reno Chamber of Commerce ambassadors. Check out Kimura's motorcycle videos on vimeo.

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DOWNTOWN Highs and Lows | The Future is Now | Strong Spirits | Sinless Snack


HIGHS AND LOWS by Greg Horton, photos by Trace Thomas

When you study mythology, you find that some stories We were sitting in the Lounge for the interview. exist to explain a state of affairs even if there is no eviNot the lounge in the bar area, but a separate space dence the story is true. These stories are called etiologies, away from the restaurant. The Lounge, which has a and they exist to help us cope with things that are not full menu available with cocktail service, was one of as we believe they ought to be. the many ways Oklahoma’s best chef has made Vast Writers in Oklahoma who aspire to be food writmore approachable, more people-oriented, and to use ers—and we do not say food critics in this state—will Fleischfresser ironic metaphor, more feet on the ground. hear the story of the restaurant that successfully sued a “Oklahoma is not a pretentious state,” said the chef certain food critic. After all, the story goes, the hardknown for his utter lack of pretension. “This is a restauworking people on the jury respected the hardworking rant that should be ‘owned,’ used and enjoyed by everyrestaurant owners; this is Oklahoma, we are told, as if one in the state. We want people to be proud to bring the blue-collar nuance is not immediately noticeable. people here.” I have been guilty of telling the story, too, and I have Where once international cuisine tried to find a no clue as to its veracity. However, the story does help following, Fleischfresser’s menu grounds itself with to explain why publications what he does best, what in the state are so averse every great chef does best: to critical writing. Pan a excellence in sourcing, movie all you want, but pan mastery of technique, and a restaurant? No. We are creativity that puts qualpolite folks around here. ity ingredients first. The Sitting down to write steak menu simply gives about the old Vast and the the name of each cut, the old Flint—both owned by ranch of origin, and aging the same company—is difinformation (aging is done ficult, especially when the in-house). For the Rack story is about the new Vast of Lamb, an emerging and the new Flint. How do signature dish, the kitchen you discuss the good that shows its commitment to has happened without mentechnique. First, the loin Vast's signature rack of lamb. Previous page: Kurt Fleischfresser, tioning what preceded the is removed from the bone Elizabeth Howe, and Michael O'Hara. renaissance orchestrated and seared, the bones are by Kurt Fleischfresser, brined and smoked sepaMichael O’Hara, Elizabeth Howe and others? Once rately, then reunited warm on the plate with the meat. A upon a time, there were two restaurants that were the sun-dried tomato gastrique sauce creates what chef calls jewels of downtown, and then they weren’t. We didn’t “an elegant barbecue sauce,” and herby Boursin mashed really talk about it, at least not in print, but many really potatoes make it homey. wanted to be proud of those jewels in the city’s beautiMichael O’Hara had a similar challenge to fully re-visioned urban bubble. Fleischfresser’s when he took over as manager of Flint. Fleischfresser took over operation for Vast in August O’Hara is an experienced restaurant manager with a 2014. To his credit, he prefers to discuss what the professional, no-nonsense style and tons of fine dining restaurant has become versus what it was. “We have experience from his time as GM of Nonna’s. Unlike probably done what they wanted us to do when they Vast, though, Flint is a hotel restaurant, and that brings invited us to take over operations,” Fleischfresser said. its own set of challenges. Nonetheless, O’Hara sees the 24


sister restaurants as two sides (or perspectives) of the same city. “Vast is up there,” he said, pointing vaguely skyward. “We’re down here on the corner. We are in the city; they are above it.” The metaphor is not meant to be critical. It is in fact quite accurate. Flint sits on one of the busiest corners in the city. It has patio dining on two sides, one adjacent to a major street, the other at the base of the Devon Tower, where Vast sits perched atop the city with the best view in the state. Birdseye or street-level? What’s your preference? Birdseye is no hyperbole, either. Sit nearly anywhere at Vast and you can see the hawks and buzzards catch the updrafts and downdrafts, floating without ever flapping. The effect is incredibly relaxing, and that contributes to the overall vibe Fleischfresser wanted. One of the first things he did at Vast was lower prices, especially on wines—those came down 30 to 40 percent immediately. He set about creating a place that was relaxed, unpretentious, welcoming, and still beautiful, with food that reflects its host environs. O’Hara had the advantage of working with executive chef Elizabeth Howe. She hung in at Flint, believing all along that the restaurant should be great. She worked herself up through the chef stations, and was finally awarded executive chef. Like the chef in the sky—sorry, had to—she was inspired by the people of Oklahoma to create a menu that reflects our home. “I am inspired by the people in our great state and our humble roots,” she said. “When I am writing a menu I think about the hardworking folks that

STRONG SPIRITS recipe by Robb Lindsey, photo by Brandon Puffer

Bespoke cocktailing just gets more delicious this fall. Strong Tonic just launched ginger and hibiscus carbonated mixers, and are they good. The original Strong Tonic syrup concentrates need to be diluted. New ready-to-pour mixers come in small cans perfect for creating a couple of cocktails at a time. As always, owner Glenn Forrester focused on pure flavors and quality ingredients for his latest: “I find most ginger beers too sweet, so I wanted to create a ginger flavor that was the perfect blend of bitter, sweet and spicy. And while it needed to pair well with vodka, I really wanted it to pair well with bourbon or rye.” Forrester developed a flavor that uses real ginger bits, grapefruit, lime, allspice and quinine. His artisan approach has fostered wide creativity, which Forrester shares in social media: “I was hoping to inspire experimentation among cocktailers.” Territory spirits editor Robb Lindsey developed three drinks around Strong Tonic’s latest offerings from his post at WSKY Lounge in Deep Deuce. Home cocktailers can find recipes at strongtonic.com and product at Plenty Mercantile, Forward Foods, Native Roots, and soon at major grocery stores. (Check out Territory’s social media for the other Lindsey recipes and inspiration.) THE INN AND THE OWL 1½ oz

El Buho Mezcal

½ oz

Espolon Tequila Blanco

1 oz

Cinnamon Simple Syrup* (1:1)

2 dashes Black Walnut Bitters Ginger Strong Tonic float

In a chilled mixing glass, combine all measured ingredients with ice and stir for 45 seconds. Strain over ice into a chilled Collins glass. Top with Ginger Strong Tonic and garnish with a lemon expression. *Look online for recipes or distributors.

continued on page 44 25


THE FUTURE IS NOW by Andrea Koester, photo courtesy of OKC Ballet

Art is not medicine, nor is it a charity case. Sometimes it’s fun or disturbing. But it should always move you, reminds an interview in Oklahoma City-produced ArtDesk magazine, “Art lies in the encounter, in the experience, in the feeling of being changed.” Crystal Bridges Curator Chad Alligood is as good a rallying voice as any on the importance of embedding a call for culture with millennials—particularly in a town like ours, noted for being heavy on folks in their 20s, but light on serious culture. Like it or not, Oklahoma City’s standing as a city taken seriously on the national stage will be linked to such. However, there is no rule that says it can’t be involve a cocktail in hand. THE BARRE

“Socializing with the dancers before performances help spark a deeper interest in the ballet,” entices Stephanie Pitts. Put another way, being on the inside of this newly energized arts org is its own reward. Stephanie Pitts danced with the Oklahoma City Ballet for eight years before becoming the development associate of The Barre.“In the past, it has been a small, intimate group, but that has changed in the last couple years,” she said. “That may be attributed to the rise of interest in the arts from our city’s young professionals.” Joining The Barre is one of the best values in the arts. For $150, a member gets tickets to three performances, invites to donor events, rehearsal viewings, one free ballet class, pre-performance parties, and access to pre-performance cocktail parties with dancers. okcballet.com/thebarre MODERNS

First access to film screenings, murder mystery games in the museum, and DIY ink printing—all paired with cocktails from different artistic eras—are a few of the 26

fun ways Oklahoma City Museum of Arts offers a swaggier experience to young patrons. Moderns membership is $30 bucks, and includes a membership to the museum. I mean, come on…$30 is what you pay for two craft cocktails, and don’t forget to tip your waiter. “Oklahoma City is on the rise and our members are young professionals who have a passion for the growth of our city,” said steering committee member Kate Cunningham. “Moderns gives them the opportunity not only to learn and explore their interest in art, but it is an incredible opportunity for networking.” A good, low-commit way to check it out: Art After 5 on Thursday nights. For $5 (free for members), view the latest installations and then head to the rooftop for live music, cocktails and networking opportunities galore. We’re also partial to the annual ARTonTAP party, October 2. okcmoa.com/support/membership OVERTURE

Under the direction of Joel Levine, the Oklahoma City Philharmonic offers tight and energetic performances, and some surprisingly savvy soloists. Overture membership offers a great introduction to the orchestra. Membership includes at least three concerts per season at the Civic Center plus members-only pre- and post-parties. There is a gap between generations that has created a lack of involvement from young people in the arts. “Because pop culture has always been handed to them, they might be intimidated to seek out other forms of art,” mused Ashley Wilson, an associate board member of Overture. Check okcphilharmonic.org/overture


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SINLESS SNACKS by Andrea Koester, photography by Courtney Waugh Jared Toay’s story might seem typical: unhealthy relationship with food, gains weight, turns it all around and gets healthy… blah, blah, blah. What makes Jared’s journey unique comes next. As a body builder, Jared had to consume crazy high levels of calories daily, as well as go hard on cardio. He grew tired of both and decided there had to be a better way. Need breeds innovation, and Jared’s ProPops were created first to satisfy their creator. Toay’s super tasty popsicles are the buzz around town. You're lucky if you can get your hands on one before they sell out. Toay added an extra kick to his handmade treats: they’re probiotic. After doing research on how our bodies process and digest food, Toay discovered the benefits of adding fermented foods to our daily diets. Foods like yogurt, pickles, sauerkraut and kimchi go through a fermenting process that creates natural probiotics. These probiotics strengthen our digestive systems in the best possible way. “When it comes to digestion, think of your body as a home,” Jared explained. “Your digestive system can either be the strong foundation or the wrecking ball that knocks it down.” Incorporating probiotics into our diets naturally aids our digestive system to do what it needs to do—soak up the good nutrients and get rid of the waste. So what does this have to do with popsicles? That is the genius part. Once Jared started loading his diet

with probiotics, he enjoyed how much better he felt; his stomach issues were gone, he had more energy, and he was at a healthy weight without having to hit the treadmill every day. He wanted his friends and family to feel the same, so he began by creating his own probiotic cultures (a process of fermenting kefir and sugar water). Trying to get sauerkraut and yogurt to his children every day was a little more of a challenge—and to everyone’s benefit, that’s exactly how the probiotic popsicle was born. Friends raved about Toay’s flavors and encouraged him to sell to the public. Flavors such as, strawberry basil, creamy coconut and sugar free citrus became such a hit, he added soda to the mix. Jared’s drinks meld the pleasing fizz of pop with the healthy tang of fermented kombucha tea. These caffeine-free, all-natural drinks include orange hibiscus, lemon balm lavender, cherry cola, ginger ale, and root beer. In a word: winning. “It doesn’t matter what type of diet you follow, gluten-free, paleo, carnivore or vegan,” Jared encouraged. “It really comes down to digestion and how our bodies use what we put into it. Focus on foods first and the rest should follow.”

GALLERY C Chickasaw painter Brenda Kingery spent 7 years in Okinawa and found a passion for Ryukyuan folk art. Her paintings reflect complexity in texture and media. Says Kingery, “My goal is to create paintings that reflect life’s breath.” Reception Nov. 7. Gallery C, 1 E. Sheridan (405) 767-8900.

OKLAHOMA CONTEMPORARY Shared Space: Photography From 1987 and Beyond acts as a time capsule traversing the social landscape using photos, video and other time-based media to document post Cold War globalization. Oct. 29-Dec. 18. 3000 Gen. Pershing Blvd. (405) 951-0000. oklahomacontemporary.org

Urban Agrarian carries Jared’s ProPops and sodas, and he also sets up at the Uptown 23rd and Norman farmers markets. For more info: jaredspropops.com.

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Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm • Sun, 11am-6pm 4111 W. Reno Ave. Oklahoma City, OK 73107 405.948.0018 • www.lorecranch.com Follow us on Facebook, Instagram & Twitter


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MIDTOWN Vet to Homeless Pets | Japanese Soul Food | The Rhythm of OKC


VET TO HOMELESS PETS by Andrea Koester, photos by Chad Bennett

It’s rush hour on NW 23rd and Broadway Extension. Stuck at a light, you might notice the homeless woman with her two dogs and a sign that states "Anything will help." One might wonder, why add to the struggle by feeding more mouths? That perspective would likely change after spending a few minutes with Dr. Leonardo Baez of Midtown Vets. The homeless in Oklahoma City who choose to take on a pet do it for the same reasons that any of us take on that responsibility. For good reasons we call a dog a man's best friend; they provide us with companionship, security, comfort, and unconditional love. Pets do not need fancy things, nor do they care how rich or poor their owner is. Jack London, one of America's greatest authors, once said, "A bone to the dog is not charity. Charity is the bone shared with the dog, when you are just as hungry as the dog." We take care of our pets, and in return, 34

they take care of us in ways in which we might not even be aware, looking out for our safety and our hearts. The benefits we get from our pets are impossible to quantify but the vet bills are not. Vaccines and general health care can be very expensive, and when you are trying to make it on the streets, it may not be an option to buy flea medication or other pet necessities. Enter Dr Baez. He opened his clinic in Midtown in 2014 after building two successful animal emergency centers in Norman and Oklahoma City. Not even a month after opening, Dr. Baez encountered his first homeless customer. “He came in with a very sick dog and had five dollars to his name," Baez said. "I wasn't about to turn him away when I knew I could help.” The word quickly spread around the community and Dr. Baez has now seen close to 100 dogs brought in by homeless pet owners. “Situations like these seem to


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find me. I saw a hole that needed to be filled and knew I could do something about it. My father was like that, too, always finding himself in situations where he could lend a hand.” When someone uses his skills just to be helpful, especially for an underserved community, the result is a rare and beautiful kindness. Dr. Baez took in each dog without hesitation and refused to take any compensation for his time. Eventually, he realized that this might be bigger than just helping out a few people and their pets. If he wanted to continue helping pro bono, he would need community support. City Care and the Homeless Alliance partner to offer a day shelter (WestTown) at the Homeless Alliance's campus. The center already had a few kennels that dog owners can use to board their dogs while participating in social work services at the center. The center understands how companion animals can add to the quality of life of the homeless. Baez contacted Haley Phelps, the manager of WestTown, and they set up a first-Tuesday program that puts Baez in the shelter to offer his services, including flea medication, heart worm prevention, and vaccines. “It is a great solution for now," he said. "I was getting drop-ins all the time and that can mess up a schedule at an already busy vet clinic. Plus transportation is an

issue for most; some were walking miles and miles just to get here.” There are a few government programs that help with free spay/neuters, but nothing yet exists for vaccines and general healthcare. Baez knows that he cannot continue giving out free health care for these animals much longer without creating a nonprofit, and that is next on the list. While it seems more sensible to use homeless services to care for humans, helping companion animals actually helps the companions. “Most of the homeless that come to City Care are in programs to help get them back on their feet and reconnect with society," Phelps said. "Some, because of their past, have a hard time trusting people and benefit from the companionship of a dog.” When Dr. Baez offers his services, he begins to break down that trust barrier and furthers the process of reconnecting with society in a positive way. Dr. Baez needs volunteers to help clean the animal area at the homeless shelter, and donations of leashes, collars, bowls, blankets, and other gear. He also established an account to receive donations to assist with purchasing vaccines, meds, and surgeries. Contact Midtown Vets at (405) 606-4477 midtown vets.com. 37


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JAPANESE SOUL FOOD by Amy Hill with Greg Horton, photos by Emily Ann Hughes

Wakana Sebacher grew up enjoying the warm, comforting bowls of broth and deliciousness from the numerous ramen shops in Okinawa, Japan. When she moved to Oklahoma to attend the University of Central Oklahoma, her favorite food from home was sadly absent from the menus at local Japanese restaurants. “In Japan, Ramen Shops are like pizza shops are here; they’re everywhere,” Sebacher said. “Here in Oklahoma, what we see in Japanese food is sushi or hibachi. I came here 10 years ago for school and what I saw was just sushi, so (a ramen shop) is something that I always wanted to open.” The inspiration for opening Tamashii Ramen may have been fueled by Wakana’s fond memories, but it was her husband’s love of cooking that helped make her dream a reality. On their first trip to Okinawa together, she introduced Michael Sebacher to her parents and then she introduced him to ramen. A lot of people in the states associate ramen with the hard bricks of noodles frequently purchased by college students, and Michael was no different. “The first time he had ramen, he was like, ‘What is this?’” Wakana said. That first dining experience left quite the impression and Michael, being the cook of the family, decided to learn the art of making ramen—a rich tradition in Japanese culture. Luckily, Wakana was a willing and eager taste-tester and travel buddy. Together they learned all about ramen from Wakana’s family in Okinawa, and others in Tokyo and Osaka. “I love that ramen has such complexity but also can be made into something comforting and simple,” Michael said. “Ramen is very much an interpreted dish and this allows for many experiences depending where you eat it. Each style will have dozens of variations.” It was important to learn about those variations and styles from many different people so that they could come up with their own version to bring home. Just like

the varieties of pizza, each shop has their own style, and Tamashii Ramen is a reflection of Wakana’s upbringing and Michael’s passion for cooking and trying new flavors from various regions. Tonkotsu ramen, a traditional ramen style made with pork bone broth, is the most popular item on the menu at Tamashii. Ramen dough is aged and compressed, an essential step that created a wonderfully toothy texture. But the noodles are nothing without an authentic broth, and Tamashii has that. As with many heritage dishes, the variety is wonderfully diverse. The couple have plans to introduce different styles in the future. “Ramen varies from country to country,” Michael said. “In Korea it is ramyeon, and in Hawaii, saimin. All have multiple variations. We want to introduce people to different types of ramen.” At the heart of Tamashii Ramen lies a simple goal, provide a little escape from the hustle and bustle with comfort food and great customer service. Their wait staff even uses the traditional Japanese greetings and keeps to a high standard of service. All of the dishes are prepared in-house just as in the ramen shops of Japan. Gyozas and iron-skillet fried garlic rice are go-tos. Even if we make our way around new items the couple have planned such as Japanese curry, Japanese fried chicken, and seasonal specials. No matter what ingredients they choose to add, Wakana wants to make sure Tamashii sticks to Japanese comfort foods. “(Ramen) is a soul food. For me, this is what I grew up with, so it is a comfort food for a lot of Japanese people, and I hope we can bring that comfort to Oklahoma City.” “When you walk in, we want customers to forget that they’re in OKC,” she said. “I want them to feel like they could be in Japan.” 321 NW 8th St. at Hudson. (405) 517-0707. 39


TERRITORY MAKERS SERIES Fall heralds back a season of playing, learning, and exploring with community! Subscribe to our EventBrite feed and follow our social media to stay up-to-date on our Fall Territory: Maker’s event deets! PIE & COCKTAILS October 12, Packard’s New American

FALL BODY CARE early November, udånder Scandinavian

Kitchen: The title should be enough to entice any

Steam & Sauna Spa : Our bodies respond in all kinds of

level-headed human, but we’ll tell you a little more anyway. Packard’s New American Kitchen prides itself on seasonal ingredients, featured in both meals and cocktails. With leaves turning and cooler temperatures approaching, our palates are anticipating the cinnamon spices, crisp apples, and nearly every other taste that has become integral to autumn. On the evening of Oct. 12, Columbus Day, Packard’s sous chef Brianna Shear, shares her craft of pie-making. The tricks to good fromscratch pie crusts shares the agenda with Fall cocktail making! Participants will sample pies and other snacks, and return home with a pie they constructed themselves to bake at home. The restaurant will be open solely to provide a lesson in making homemade pie crusts, as well as cocktail pairings for new season. Packard’s New American Kitchen, 201 NW. 10th St., suite 100.

ways to the changing of the seasons. Skin, digestion, and stress seem especially sensitive this, so the good folks at udånder Scandinavian Steam & Sauna Spa are going to help us learn more about therapeutic oils and foods to help our skin look amazing, Participants will do several grounding and healing activities, and make a body scrub to take home. udånder Scandinavian Steam & Sauna Spa, 131 Dean A. McGee, suite 105. MAN DAY mid November, ZT Cigars : Cigar tastings, whiskey cocktails, bowtie tutorials. Sound like a perfect man day? Wrong—there also will be football. There, now it’s perfect. Come learn, savor, and hang out with some seriously legit dudes in the fields of cocktails, fashion, and cigars! We are gathering in the new ZT Cigars public hang out room. ZT Cigars, 2726 W. Britton Rd.

MEMOIR OF A TAM TAM PRINCESS by Mary Gray to Hemingway I was the most sensational woman anyone ever saw… whiskey breathed as the words left his mouth… he, the drunkest artist I ever saw America's tune was not my song… they content with bananas on my hips… diamonds around my neck—like a chained dog… my bare black breast the only talent they ever saw for them I don't dance… I don't sing… I'm their embodiment of down-south sex yellow around my hips… white around my neck… but black is the only couleur they ever saw in my future I play muse..I will be free… my dance as playful as that child in the streets can I complain? I have more now than I did back then yet, I'm more exotic than my mama ever saw or imagined she raised me to be… but now I speak French and mama I play muse and I still pray each night that you and God forgive me for anything He ever saw but not tonight the curtain fell before I could take my bow… they came for vaudeville antics I'm too professional for that kind of show… too talented a performer and if I ever saw myself dance and sing I would be mesmerized beyond couleur of skin but America's has its own tune… with the simplest dance steps I ever saw I won't try to perform those steps… I have dreams the size of Heaven and Hell put together The Renaissance is a memory left on my tongue… my eyes are still on the greatest fame I ever saw 40


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by Justin Fortney

There is no shortage of excellent live shows in OKC these days, but for the last year the Midtown Songwriter Series has found a very sweet spot on the music scene. From the street, the almost 100-year-old church building on NW 13th near Classen looks like a gorgeous house of worship, and it is. City Pres church also opens its doors once a quarter for the community to experience some of the best songwriters in Oklahoma. On October 2, the sound of Oklahoma singer/songwriters Sherree Chamberlain and Tyler Hopkins kicks off the second year of the Midtown Songwriter Series. For years, Pastor Bobby Griffith and musician Tyler Hopkins threw around the idea of a venue that nurtures both the artist and the listening experience. When the church moved into this new (old) building, they realized the sacred space could be a musical home. The series works to fill an obvious void in the landscape of local music, with intimate house concerts at one end of the spectrum and deafening bars at the other. The church itself is an active performer. The architecture creates a reverent expectation, and the traditional placement of the church building at the heart of a neighborhood draws the audience to feel as though the music is part of a meaningful communal activity. The shows here take house concerts’ informal vibe and proximity of artist to patron and add unique layers onto that experience. “We want to build these shows into the regular rhythm of people’s lives,” says Hopkins. “We want to be part of the fabric of the community.” The resurgence of urban areas of Oklahoma City has brought new activity; the use of historic churches

photo of Sherree Chamberlain

THE RHYTHM OF OKC as concert halls isn’t novel. Unique to this venue is the connection to the neighborhood. Between sets during last year’s show featuring Kyle Reid, Levi Parham, and Rachel Brashear, the atmosphere out on the front steps of the church resembled more the vibe of a neighborhood front porch than a bar or club. Says Griffith: “All kinds of different people from the various neighborhoods coming to these shows. Older residents from Heritage Hills. Younger folks from the Plaza area.” It also doesn’t hurt that the music just sounds great. Paul Drenth, a sound engineer who has worked many of these shows, explains: “It's not the easiest load-in and sound check in the world, but the hard work pays off in a way that contributes to the community. Historic spaces like this were not designed with loudspeakers and guitar amps in mind, but the acoustic challenges of this room are what give it character and life. It's great to see history serving the community in such a unique and genuine way.” Chamberlain and Hopkins both bring a roots/ county sound. Collaboration between the artists on the Midtown Songwriters Series lineups has become a staple, and since Chamberlain and Hopkins have played in bands together before, expect that tradition to continue. As more Oklahoma City residents choose to live, work, and play within the urban core, this music series is an example of how collaborations between different stakeholders can create fantastic intersections of art, architecture, and neighborhood. Show starts at 7:30 pm, $10 cover. 829 NW 13th

43


Vast story continued from page 25

will be coming through our doors and what types of to describe much of what his team does: “With the food will catch their attention, appeal to their memories, wine list, and with our food, we are going for interestand dare their idea of ordinary.” ing, approachable, and unpretentious,” he said. We enjoyed the toothiness of the Flint BLT, for Both restaurants are now run by teams that underexample, with ultra thick bacon strips mellowed out by stand Oklahoma is not pretentious, not even in its fine the under-appreciated components dining. Who the hell wants to of butter lettuce, housemade aioli, wear a suit coat or constricting and sourdough bread. It’s just a BLT, clothing when it’s 100 degrees "We are many things but one composed by a chef who unin August? At the same time, to many people— derstands what makes that sandwich dress it up if you want. Who so good. cares? It’s Oklahoma. See how upscale fine dining Fleischfresser changed the menu that works? Everyone is just free and hotel restaurant at Vast to reflect the state and region. to show up as they are. “Vast is Chesapeake Bay, the Gulf, New, reasonably priced wine and extension of the Florida coast, Creole Cajun, and pairing dinners and Wine for Deep South,” he said. “Those are the the People tasting events are Devon—so our styles I make when I represent our drawing folks up to the top of identity is all over state outside of the country, too.” the tower, too. “We want you Howe takes a similar, if narrower, up here,” Fleischfresser said. the place, but our tactic. “If I am from Oklahoma and “Every seat has a view, and we concept is grounded I grew up eating the food here, what have made changes in décor, are the items that speak to me about furniture, colors and processes in nature: stone, my culture, and how do I turn that that make us warmer and more earth, minerals, into modern and elegant food that I accessible. Perfection in details, am proud of?” service, and food without the water, and leather." Food is not the only thing that proper attitude is not good.” —Michael O'Hara makes a restaurant great, though, This new team uses the and it certainly doesn’t make it run. language to which we in Processes matter, and so do personOklahoma are accustomed— nel. O’Hara said that he hired ten people his first week. casual fine dining, accessible, friendly, come-as-you-are, The two formed a partnership that has turned the place people-oriented. These are not just words, though; they around. Howe was then free to oversee the kitchen, and reflect an attitude. O’Hara set about creating training regimens and job Once upon a time, there were two restaurants that descriptions for all positions. were the jewels of downtown, and then they weren’t, There are still rough patches. By the end of this year, and now they are—because they understand Oklahoma. the restaurant should be where exacting O’Hara wants it. That includes the wine list, which he and sommelier Vast, Devon Tower, entrance on Harvey, just south of Park Mindy Magers oversee together. Teamwork is import(405) 702-7262. vastokc.com. Flint, corner of Robinson ant at Flint, and like Fleischfresser, O’Hara uses a word and Sheridan (405) 605-0657. flintokc.com.

LUDIVINE'S 5-YEAR ANNIVERSARY PARTY

Saturday, October 3, at 7 pm. Four of Ludivine's favorite chefs will take turns in the kitchen throughout the night to help guests celebrate the locavore restaurant's 5th birthday. Kurt Fleischfresser, Jonathon Krell, Henry Boudreaux, and Marc Dunham will prepare the first four courses, and Chef John Bennett will create dessert and lead everyone in a midnight toast. Tickets, which include one drink, are $53.74 and available on Ludivine's Facebook page. 44

SIX DEGREES OF BACON Thursday, October 8 from 7–9 pm. What better way to fund-raise than indulge in bacon? For $35, you can sample bacon-inspired treats and dishes created by local restaurants, drink local beer, and get cool bacon swag. All proceeds will benefit the Midtown Association.


JL Woodworx & Design “where reclaimed meets modern” New location coming soon! jlwoodworx.com | Jay: (405) 831-8880 | Christina: (405) 830-3460 |


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UPTOWN/PASEO Turning the Tide | Style, Truly | Peeping History | Gun Bae!


TURNING THE TIDE

by Veronica Pasfield

Every good story has chapters, a break in the narrative when something new begins. Oklahoma City’s blossoming restaurant scene turned a page last month when The Drake Seafood & Oysterette opened its doors wide at the corner of what was and what may yet come for this city’s potential as a foodie destination. The restaurant critic in me wants to pull back here. One mustn’t gush. But, hot damn, A Good Egg Dining Group has created a sincerely special place on 23rd and Walker. Seafood is a personal passion, a life map of sorts. I descend from a tribal fishery tradition on Lake Superior. (Do you have any idea how good Lake Superior whitefish is?) In college, I allowed myself to be romanced by a charter boat deckhand, much shorter than I, because he brought me sacks of fat, pink shrimp from the waters off Hilton Head Island. I ate my first lobster roll in a tiny fishing cove in Maine, where the waitress identified each colorful trap float by family name. Chesapeake Bay meant buckets of crabs dumped onto wooden tables, and San Francisco sushi was a transcendental experience. Seafood is a pilgrimage, and not one I found terribly rewarding in Oklahoma City. Which is to say I anticipated the opening of The Drake with equal portions of unfettered hope and cold dread. Well, it looks like Neptune heard our prayers. The scope of the menu at The Drake is broad and its execution ambitious. Sea Scallop Ceviche, Whole Salt Crusted Branzino, and Seafood Paella for Two in Oklahoma? Okay, hot stuff, I thought that first night, let’s see what you got. Of course, that describes Oklahoma City writ large right now. Knowledgeable sources report that Chicago Magazine and The New York Times are both working 50

on travel pieces about our city. National Geographic Traveler named us one of the 15 must-see places in the world? (Talk about gushing.) The Drake is the kind of restaurant that inspires such national coverage. Creating an oysterette in a place like Oklahoma takes moxie. The Drake’s supremely fresh and constantly evolving oyster menu pulls from waters from Cape Cod to British Columbia. A team of fervent shuckers preps trays of crushed ice and teeny bowls of house-made mignonettes. On the first night, our table tried them all. The first tentative slurps of the sea slid across my tongue like a delicious promise. Hope bloomed. Now, would our Middle West community support a quality oysterette? Chef de Cuisine Chad Willis reports he begins each day on a hunt for oysters. When distributors ask how much The Drake needs, chef typically responds, “How much you got?” Distributors, who divvy up the supply of seafood regionally, are starting to realize the tide has shifted towards OKC. Heather and husband Keith Paul designed The Drake to, in a very real sense, capture energy. The menu is designed for family-style, and foodie-style, eating. Dishes arrive at table on large platters, with a fetching brass lamp lighting the tableau from above. Cove-like booths create cozy havens meant to facilitate discussion. “It’s about stopping and talking about the food,” says Heather. “It’s the way you would have dinner in your home. Also, in our industry, that’s how we eat—we want to know what you’re having, we want to talk about it and taste off each other’s plates.” Chef Willis, most recently of The George, reports he was the seventh graduate of the famed Coach House


opening photo by Emily Ann Hughes, all other photos by Choate House

training program, and he’s been cheffing for the 24 years since then. The broad menu reflects the maturity of its chef, and its parent group. I invited our food and wine writer Greg Horton to help plumb the depths of The Drake with me. I recommend starting with Lona Faye’s prideful hushpuppies, recipe courtesy of the Mississippi grandmother of sous chef Mike Clark. It’s served up on a platter with Kentucky country ham and an indulgent swath of honey butter. Greg loved the Crispy Fish Tacos, which he recommends “for the comfort food or legalize marijuana crowd, two bites of absolute joy”—mild avocado slaw and crispy, fried whitefish on small flour tortillas. Greg would love to see them on the regular menu under an "all you can eat" or “Taco Today” heading. For the larger plates, restraint and technique define truly great seafood dishes. Simple, expertly executed components make for splendid, elegant eating. Greg and I—and so many others—agree the Whole Salt Crusted Branzino is memorable. Greg considers it “clearly one of the best seafood options in the city.” Imagine a whole fish, mounded with tarragon-scented salt, and baked. The waiter cracks the crust tableside, and gently pries the fish open to reveal succulent filets. The Grilled Sea Scallops arrive in-house dry-packed, so they lack the rubbery texture found elsewhere. A perfect sear and sprinkle of chorizo crumbles push it over the top. The Striped Bass plates crispy skin up— the first promising sign. It’s set atop, not drowning in, “oyster and champagne” sabayon with sea beans. We could rave on, but space only permits a few more mandatories. Don’t question it, just get the Hiram's Crudo with yuzu-soy vin and puffed rice and the grilled Calamari, gorgeously sautéed with tomato, sea beans, continued on page 77 51


1933 NW 23RD STREET, OKC


STYLE, TRULY There is fashion, and then there is style. One is so common it can be bought. The other you’re either blessed with or you must—and we do mean must—learn. The Paseo’s Ladies & Gentlemen Fine Millinery now shares its chic boutique with Betsy King Shoes. Milliner Marla Deann Cook and shoe curator Betsy King deserve props. Cook designed dresses and worked in a millinery in Brooklyn before returning home and opening her shop in 2013. She just launched a smart, bold new line of hats. King made her name as long-time shoe buyer for Balliet’s. They took a few moments to share their thoughts on style and life in our fair city. My exceedingly chic grandmother said good accessories are all that matters. Marla: It’s an awesome way to express yourself. You can wear an incredible hat or a killer pair of heels and that is all that matters. It defines your attitude for the day. Betsy: Amen. I’ve been running around here for weeks in flip-flops like, “Waaanh, so sad.” But the minute I put on these (points to her hot Seychelles ankle boots)… boom. When I was a buyer at Balliets, I used to wear my purple Jimmy Choo heels to Wal-Mart. After work. To buy milk. That’s what’s happenin’.

photo by Courtney Waugh

by Veronica Pasfield

In New York, that’s so common. You will see a woman in a torn-up Flashdance sweatshirt and her boyfriend’s jeans in a fierce pair of heels. Marla: Oh, easily. Oklahoma has gotten so casual. We’re a city that has a bunch of younger people living here now. There’s a lot of money coming into this city. We need to reflect the modernity in Oklahoma City and propel that. Talk about the difference between fashion and style. Marla: My ideal customer doesn’t subscribe to one trend. She’s been around; she’s confident. She chain smokes in the backyard the second her husband isn’t looking. She swears, but she has great manners. Betsy: Style is an attitude. Current address: 3016 Paseo, but moving to 3001 Paseo in mid-October. lgfinehats.com and betsykingshoes.com

BLANKET PARTY Tailgating is upon us, and Sparrow Park Goods & Co. has you covered—literally. Owner Jenn Andersen thought of everything. Blanket tops are made from cute cotton fabric, and sturdy nylon forms the underside— stylish, machine-washable, and keeps your bum dry? Umm, yes please! A large zip pocket safeguards valuables. (Ever lose your keys on game day? Not fun.) And the blankets roll and clip for compact carrying. Andersen moved to Jefferson Park from Chicago last year, and named the company for the park nearby. Blankets are designed here and constructed in Chicago. “Producing locally allows us to develop a personal relationship with our partners. The collaboration results in higher quality products.”

photo by Emily Ann Hughes

Sold locally at Tulips in Norman and Industry Flea, and at sparrowparkgoods.com. 53


Lunch and dinner served daily. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday. 2409 N Hudson Ave, Oklahoma City 73103 (405) 525-7007 | cheeverscafe.com


PEEPING HISTORY

by Greg Horton, photo courtesy of Heritage Hills Historic Homes Tour

The Heritage Hills Historic Homes Tour on September 26–27 offers a fascinating look into some of the most gracious residences in the city. But the stories behind these homes and the families who lived in them create a chain of inheritance that extends across generations and lends truth to the moniker Heritage Hills. The Colonial Revival style of architecture was waning when G.A. Nichols built six homes in that style on NW 18th Street in the 1920s. Tom Brown owns the Nichols-designed house at 218 NW 18th, one of the featured homes on this year's tour. District Judge Clarence Mills preceded Brown at this residence, and bought the home in 1938. Born in Muskogee, Indian Territory, Mills served with distinction in WWI where he was awarded the Silver Star. In 1943, Mills earned a mention in Billboard magazine, but not for making music. Two pieces of legislation passed by the state government that year were held to be invalid by district judges and

appealed to the Supreme Court. One was a prohibition against the sale of beer where there was dancing. Mills presided over a case that Billboard called "one of the biggest grabs yet made upon the music industry." A half century before Napster, legislators attempted to impose a ten percent tax on gross revenue derived from jukeboxes. Mills declared the law ambiguous and said, "I can't tell what it means. Take it to the Supreme Court. Let them figure it out." A portrait of Judge Mills still hangs in the home; in many Heritage Hills homes, artifacts are passed down with the home, thereby keeping the story (heritage) alive. The portrait is the work of Hungarian-American portraitist Lajos Markos, who also painted John Wayne, and Robert Kennedy. Some of Markos’ Western art hangs in the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum. Like the signs say: heritage. Tickets $15–$20. heritagehills.org

PUMP BAR In addition to providing a beautiful patio, Pump Bar now offer karaoke every Monday night. Drink a Black Betty and sing your heart out, but please, spare us another rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody. CELLAR DOOR MUSIC + EDGEMERE PARK AMPHITHEATER Some of OKC's best musicians

perform under the stars in this outdoor venue. Tickets available at okcsoundstage.com. 57


After telling us how to say cheers in Korean (Gun Bae!), Daniel instructed us how to politely pour and receive a shot of Soju.

GUN BAE!

by Veronica Pasfield, photos by Rachel Apple

You need to know something up front. Daniel Chae is my friend, a lot of people’s friend. He’s the sort of guy predicted to run the world some day, or at least city council. This might raise two questions. One: why would Daniel sacrifice a brilliant career in politics (our choice) for the equally exhausting career of a restaurateur (his choice)? Two: as his friend, can my observations on his new restaurant, Chae, be trusted? The answer to both: I don’t know. All I can tell you, with the utmost sincerity, is that the food I’ve tried so far has been very promising. Normally, I wouldn’t write about a friend’s restaurant. But—and this is the point of Chae—I don’t know another food writer in OKC who’s eaten modern Korean cuisine, or much Korean cuisine at all. For the uninitiated, Korean food is distinct for its emphasis on heartier flavors and barbecued beef, making it particularly suited to local palates. Also, Korean cuisine’s spicy and pickled notes cross over nicely in our Southwestern-dominated food landscape. “Korean cuisine is very folksy food,” Chae explains. “It’s a post-war cuisine, for hard-working people. After a few wars and total destruction of the country's 58

infrastructure, farming and fishing techniques that stored the food for long periods were really the only option.” So there's a huge emphasis on fermenting, too.” Kimchi, a fiery fermented slaw, is the most obvious example. Chef de Cuisine Tayler Desjarlais relishes (sorry) the chance to meld such with his French training. Jars of pickled smoked peaches with tarragon and other inventive pairings fill his walk-in fridge. Also modern, and delicious: traditional rice bowl BiBimBop shows up sizzling in iron skillets more akin to frontier cooking. Tacos marry Korean short ribs and pickled veggies with tortillas. Chae has pulled in two promising young chefs to help. Childhood pal Kevin Lee, a chef at Vast. Desjarlais, Lee’s Coach House classmate, will run the kitchen on the daily. “People’s palates have changed in the last five years,” Lee says. “We want to elevate, to match our cooking with the millennial energy here.” Soju, Korea’s national drink, should help. Chae’s casual menu is designed around it. “The significance of how easy it is to drink soju can't be understated,” Chae says with a laugh. “It's considered one of the best selling spirits in the world. No joke. Google it.”


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WESTERN AVE That's the Way It Can Be | Men and the Art of Motorcycle Congruence | Taking You to Marrakesh


NEW NEWS SITE COMMITTED TO TELLING IT LIKE IT IS.

THAT'S THE WAY IT CAN BE by Veronica Pasfield, opening photo by John Clayton Taylor, secondary photo courtesy of NonDoc OKC LLC

There are people who work in media and there are journalists. Sometimes it’s hard to tell the difference in round-the-clock coverage of minor stories while Rome burns around us, and partisan networks play with facts in a loosey-goosey fashion. Money doesn’t help; it’s expensive to run a news organization, and publishers sell stories to advertisers and let power players censor what the public sees. Traditionally, those were fireable offenses for any journalist. The creators of NonDoc.com, a sort of Huffington Post for OKC, planted a flag firmly in journalistic territory when they launched their website the first week in September. The principals are some of the more intriguing people in Oklahoma City, and run with many of the new masterminds behind the city’s resurgence. Andrew Rice, a former state senator who took an unsuccessful run at Sen. James Inhofe’s seat in Washington in 2008, initiated the project. Rice invited Braid Creative & Consulting branding, blogging, and podcasting guru Kathleen Shannon to partner. Rice sounds like a bit of a news junkie. When he was a state legislator, Rice regularly published opinion pieces in local publications. At the Capitol, he spoke his mind, even when his Democratic voice was drowning in a sea of red. “I’m more on the creative side with thought and intellect—saying things that maybe people are uncomfortable hearing,” Rice says. “(NonDoc) is in my wheelhouse, it’s just a new medium.” Shannon branded, and husband Jeremy built, the site. Sponsors help fund the project a la National Public Radio. Shannon and Rice are gambling on the notion that sponsors— which currently include St. Anthony Hospital and Phillips Murrah Law 64

Firm—will recognize the value of quality, simpatico followers even if they accumulate slowly. “One of our challenges as the owners of this thing is how do we monetize it?” Shannon admits. “One of my big goals for the project is to help align our really smart readers with really smart brands and just elevate the whole game.” Tres Savage, III—formerly a reporter in Norman and the state capitol, and veteran of Rice’s campaign— serves as editor in chief. Veteran community newspaperman Josh McBee serves as managing editor. Both write quite a bit, and hope to ramp content to several new stories a day. Savage promises substance over “click bait.” The team named the site or a quote from Walter Cronkite: “I think being a liberal, in the true sense, is being nondoctrinaire, nondogmatic, non-committed to a cause—but examining each case on its merits.” That a rallying cry in Oklahoma originated from a 1973


interview in Playboy magazine gives this reporter a snicker. (Oh, save your froth, some of the best reportage in the country ran in Playboy in the ’70s. Normal Mailer on boxing, anyone?) Stories from the first week give a taste of editorial approach: Sen. Kyle Loveless’s bill addressing law enforcement seizure of cash and other assets from individuals; regulating local Airbnbs; and an informed critique of the Huffington Post’s presidential poll predictions in “The Daily Filter” column. Explains Rice: “Media end up being funnels and not filters, so instead of being a firehouse that’s just sort of aggregating things, at NonDoc we will be picking things of interest and adding to them.” No matter what Jeff Daniels wants us to believe, a newsroom is also terribly—and necessarily—wonky. NonDoc greases the gears of participatory citizenship with items such as a linked list of public meetings with the reminder “You cannot be prohibited from attending” under the state’s Open Meeting Act, also linked. State departmental sites (should) include meeting agendas and minutes. Boring beat reporter stuff, this, unless you think about current events. Will the priorities of the Department of Mental Health and Substance Abuse Services shift after the tragic death of Labor Secretary Mark Costello? One of the leading news magazines in the world, The Atlantic, recently raised serious questions about our state’s approach to the implementation of the death penalty. Want to know more? The Oklahoma Department of Corrections meeting minutes are just a click away—as is statutory info on consequences for blocking the public from such. Democracy, which leans heavily on a free and independent press, is kind of bad ass, eh? Publications find their voices gradually, by doing. Memorable commentary, for example, carries with it a certain sass and intellectual sexiness. We hope to see more of that as NonDoc matures. But it’s supremely reassuring knowing smart, passionate thinkers are building a new format for classic journalism here.

WestFest

WestFest is bringing the first festival on Western Avenue to life on September 19th. The event is totally free and appropriate for all ages. Music will be played all day and all night long with an after party at the newly renovated VZDs. Shop and eat your heart out at the local restaurants that line Western Ave, or enjoy the food trucks that will rotate all day at the end of the block. #GLORYBLOG

Inspired on the daily by digital media goddess Rachel Shingleton, designer behind the Pencil Shavings blog and estore. Several quality national decor lines have collaborated with her, including The Land of Nod and this fall's feature with Benjamin Moore Paints. We're following along on Shingleton's Instagram feed (@pencilshavings) to watch her redesigns her dining room in the 405, as well as getting inspired by her Carlton Landing cottage and the antics of her boys and teeny pooch. Girlfriend is making us look good on the daily. 65


Nichols Hills Plaza 6423 Avondale Drive Oklahoma City 73116 (405) 286-4183 theconsortiumok.com Mon-Fri 10-5 Sat 10-2


MEN AND THE ART OF MOTORCYCLE CONGRUENCE by Robb Lindsey, photography by Josh Welch

Veneration for the past most often begets two things: somnambulant reticence for things no longer and a persistent resentment of modernity. Yet particular to this generalization, as well as to most tepid dualities, there seems to be a middle ground. Our political penchants aside, we Oklahomans are that middle ground. Oklahoma’s sleepy small towns with shuttered general stores, dirt colored rust, and somewhat-Southern drawls seem to bear—and bare—the scaffolding of yesteryear far more openly than most. This land is (and always was) grand, and we’re damn proud of it. Perhaps the most genuine iteration of that is Weldon Jack, a men’s provisions store and hub for vintage biking, as well as barbers who can deliver on undercuts and razor fades. Weldon Jack eschews hipster knick-knackery for a curated merchandising of well-crafted attire, tools, and gear. “It comes down to people who want something that is functional,” says owner Jerrod Smith. “You buy something once and you have it for a lifetime. It’s a legacy.” But legacies take time and the collective inheritance of lives lived long, hard, and well. So it makes perfect sense that those most absorbed by the search for permanence strive—even in the form of hand-stitched motorcycle gloves and custom three-quarter helmets—to

preserve the health and wellness of those best fit to prolong tradition, story, and quality goods. On September 27th, Jerrod Smith and a pack of classic motorcyclists ride to raise money for prostate cancer research and prevention. The “Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride” is an international organization that gathers to raise awareness and funds. The riders, donned in tweed, leathers, and bowties, join together to ride atop “classic-styled” bikes, including café-racers, scramblers, and bobbers. The Oklahoma City DGR plans to meet at Weldon Jack before riding through downtown, Automobile Alley, and Bricktown. Local artists, food trucks, brewers, and distillers will then converge upon the barbershop and provisions store to commune, eat, drink, and admire the riders’ finest classic bikes, bib, and tucker. (For a taste of such, check out Smith and his friends in our men’s fashion story at the front of the magazine.) What becomes of a simple philanthropic motorcycle ride depends solely on the collective dedication of modern men toward craft, the freedom of the open road, and camaraderie, if only for a few miles. Weldon Jack, 3621 N. Western Ave. (405) 241-5660. weldonjack.com. 67


Nichols Hills Plaza | 6480 Avondale Dr. Nichols Hills, 73116 | shopbebes.com | (405) 843-8431 |


TAKING YOU TO MARRAKESH

by Veronica Pasfield, photos by Emily Ann Hughes and courtesy of Nicole Bisby, styling by Jenny Wirt It’s funny, the opportunities that arise when we follow our hearts. Nicole Bisby Daadaoui’s current calling began with a boy and a necklace and love. Her boyfriend, Dr. Mohamed Daadaoui, returned to OKC from Morocco with a gift. It was a delicately filagreed charm of a khamsa hand, an ancient cultural symbol meant to ward off evil. Fast forward to this summer, when Nicole and Mohamed were married, and the Moroccan hand is the logo for Nicole’s new importing business, Bisby. We asked her to share a bit about her adventures. What’s up with all these posts from the rug district in Marrakesh to riding camels in the Sahara to adopting orphaned baby elephants in Kenya? Yes! I went to Morocco for our traditional wedding. I wore six different dresses and it lasted all night long. It was the most exciting, beautiful, interesting thing I’ve ever done. After that we did [an adventure] tour and did most of the sourcing [for Bisby] in Marrakesh. How did you first decide to import goods? A lot of it comes from Mohamed’s sister, Latifa, who works in a women’s cooperative. She has a Ph.D. in business from a university in Paris and she works with women in argon and rug cooperatives. We’re sourcing our rugs there, and are doing our best to buy them directly from the [weavers].

Collaborating with a local has got to change things! They’ve introduced me to childhood friends like the artisan who makes my purses. [Latifa taught me] the vast majority of the [weavers] are widowed or divorced. It’s very tough for them. Every woman who makes a rug has a story and comes from a place with a history. Story is our strongest message as humans. At the end of the day, we all want the same thing. We want to be safe, to have our families, and to live our own lives.” Visit shopbisby.com, and follow her Instagram @bisby for news about pop-up shops. 69


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POINTS NORTH We Created It, We Can Solve It | Bourbon Trails and Beer Tales | Poppin’ Bottles


WE CREATED IT, WE CAN SOLVE IT by Greg Horton, photography by Trace Thomas

Last summer, as temperatures ratcheted past 105 degrees for days on end, two exceptionally sweet young dogs tried to survive together in a bush in the Paseo. A well-meaning neighbor asked the city animal shelter to pick them up, assuming the friends would be watered, fed, and soon adopted. When the truck came, the pups hopped in, looking into the eyes of the humans for reassurance. The neighbor called the city two to three days later to inquire about sponsoring their upkeep and was horrified to learn one (the Pit Bull) had already been euthanized and the other (a Rottweiler mix) was slated for the same. That is, until Country Roads Animal Rescue swooped in. According to workers at the Oklahoma City Animal Shelter, during the heatwave last July, the city was receiving more than 100 dogs a day. The Pit with the gentle green eyes had a wound on his hind haunches, and was euthanized. Tears were shed, to be sure. But now the Rottie has a name—Duke—and a (foster) home with Country Roads founder Maria Latham. Latham, who lives near MacAthur and Britton, started the 501c3 non-profit last April. While fostering for another agency, she developed ideas about how to help animals slated for death: “I saw a huge gap to fill, so I started my own rescue.” Last year, the Kirkpatrick Foundation announced the Safe & Humane Initiative with the goal of making Oklahoma “the safest and most humane place possible to be an animal by 2032.” In early November, the

foundation will release the Oklahoma Animal Study. It's the most comprehensive study of animal welfare ever conducted in our state. Early indicators say the state of stray animals in Oklahoma is not good. At all. There are systemic and specific issues at play. How difficult must it be to assess the adoptability of a freaked-out dog in the clamor of the city shelter? Shy Duke flunked that test. Pit Bulls face dire challenges, especially when owners have to move; many apartment complexes ban the breed. Overwhelmed owners surrender mothers and pups. Adult dogs are adopted slowly. The list goes on. Once an owner surrenders an animal to a city shelter, the animal's life is in greater jeopardy than a stray. “The owner is the one who dropped the animal off, so those pets go on the euthanize list faster,” said Latham. “That is also true of mama dogs who are dropped off with their puppies.” Country Roads successfully completed its 180th rescue in August. It’s unique for targeting animals on the kill list at shelters around the state. The information is not made public, but rescue organizations are allowed to view the animals on site, and the euthanize list is part of the provided information if you know how to read the card. “We have been successful in saving the dogs nine of ten times,” Latham said. “We have a great relationship with the Oklahoma City shelter, and they have been very helpful.” continued on page 77

72


BOURBON TRAILS AND BEER TALES

THE BLOGGERS FROM BARRELS AND MASH TELL US WHAT’S WHAT. by Kris Kettner, photos by John Clayton Taylor

As the 100° days taper off, it means one thing—it’s about to be nice enough to drink outside again! In Oklahoma, it seems we only get a couple of fall days; it goes from 104° to -8° in a wink. But, oh man, are those fall days amazing. We love to see our friends sipping on ridiculously good Oklahoma beer at The Patriarch, or a killer Bourbon Manhattan at R&J Lounge, or even our own porches. Our blog, Barrels and Mash, was conceived earlier this year as a way to share our excitement about the excellent choices we now enjoy here. The Barrels and Mash concept started out as a Bourbon review site, but we also spend a fair amount of time nerding out on the local beer scene. There aren't many spots online dedicated to reviewing Oklahoma beer, providing recommendations on local bars and liquor stores, or posting interviews with the people who are making all this exciting stuff happen. We’ve got our eye on some great stuff:

like best, and go to market with the selector’s name or brand on the bottle. The most recent Woodford Reserve Double Oaked barrel selected for Oklahoma release carries toffee and caramel aromas, and also some nice sweet corn and oak. This has great balance via big oak with some very specific notes that taste like… well… have you ever had those orange-flavored chocolate balls? The ones that are wrapped in foil and break apart into orange-slice shapes? That flavor is totally part of this bourbon’s profile. If you see it in a local liquor store, grab it.

WOODFORD RESERVE DOUBLE OAKED SINGLE BARREL Oklahoma Selection #5: A great way to taste the full

PRAIRIE OKIE: There is something about the weather getting cooler that makes strong ales and stouts taste even better. After time spent in a whiskey barrel, those beers offer the perfect pour on a cool day. Prairie Artisan Ales nails the sweet spot with Okie, imperial brown ale aged in whiskey barrels. That booziness comes through nicely in the aroma with some malty brown sugar. Molasses, vanilla, coffee, and dark chocolate are just a few of the flavors that come through big.

range of what a distillery has to offer is through private barrel selections. Many distilleries have programs that allow enthusiasts to try samples from a few barrels earmarked for a specific brand, purchase the barrel they

We hope you are out enjoying all that Oklahoma City has to offer. Barrels and Mash will certainly be out there doing the same. barrelsandmash.com.

TERRITORY PHOTO CREDITS Creative talent blesses OKC big time. Most of our ads were produced specifically for Territory. Many helped with these original ads. The following photographers took our ad photos. For more info or bios of our writing contributors, please visit our website territoryokc.com. udånder: Emily Ann Hughes. Interior Gilt: Courtney Waugh, fascinator courtesy of Ladies and Gentlemen Hats, make-up styling by Chelsey Ann Artistry, fashion styling by Jenny Wirt, hair styling by Ali Earnheart & model Jessi Chapman courtesy of brink models. Vintage Reclaimed Lumber: Courtney Waugh. Naifeh Fine Jewelers: Josh Welch, make-up styling by Chelsey Ann Artistry, fashion styling by Linda Trippe, hair styling by Ali Earnheart & model Ariana of Brink Models. Paper ‘N More: Courtney Waugh. Cole's Garden: Courtney Waugh. OKCMOA: Provided. Carlton Landing: Provided. Downtown OKC: Provided. Ballet: Provided. Lorec Ranch: Trace Thomas & Chad Bennett (skull, truck). Barre3: Josh Welch. Bleu Garten: Choate House. Scott Cleaners: Trace Thomas. Packard’s: Emily Ann Hughes. Dust Bowl & Fassler Hall: Rachel Apple. JL Woodworx: Courtney Waugh. Midtown Vets: Provided. Orthodontic Arts: Provided. Innov8tive: Courtesy of Studebaker National Museum. Chae: Rachel Apple. Atomic Lotus Tattoo: Carrie Strong, hat courtesy of Ladies and Gentlemen Hats. Cheever's: Choate House. The Drake: Choate House. FNB Bank: Courtney Waugh (Redrock, ERG) & Trace Thomas (Mass Architects, The Brown Group). Ketch Design Centre: Steffanie Halley. Consortium: Josh Welch. Bebe’s: Courtney Waugh, styling by Leah Sullivan. Urban Row: Lacey Elaine Tackett. CJ Dental: Courtney Waugh. ZT Cigars: Trace Thomas. First Med: Simon Hurst. Trichology: Provided. 73


Taking expert care of your smile for a lifetime. Mary Casey-Kelly, DDS | Katherine Lawrence Johnson, DDS 5653 N. Classen Blvd., Oklahoma City 73118 | (405) 232-9721 | cjdentalstudio.com | Mon–Thurs: 8:30–5:00


Styling items from Bebe's in Nichols Hills Plaza.

POPPIN’ BOTTLES

by Greg Horton, photography by Emily Ann Hughes

Conventional wisdom is hard to overcome. The Champagne region of France has been producing some of the best sparkling wine in the world for centuries, and its role as a celebratory beverage seems determined. Yet Champagne is meant to be enjoyed for any or no occasion, with or without a meal. Many casual wine drinkers have never tried Champagne—or other sparkling wines—as an accompaniment to food. In fact, Champagne is one of the best food wines in the world. It stands up to any meat pairing. For beef, chicken, and pork—the Okie trinity of cooked beasts—it is without meaningful competition (with the exception of 3000 Riesling). People typically steer away from Champagne for three reasons: price, toasty or yeasty flavors, and a sulfurous aroma and occasionally taste. Grower Champagne delivers none of these. It is so-named because the people who grow the grapes make the wine, which is very atypical of Champagne production. Oklahoma has enjoyed Grower Champagne for the past few years. The quality differences are dramatic and related to a few very important factors. First, the grower aspect means they are produced by small, family-based houses. In the Grower world, 10,000 cases marks the upper end of production levels. Compare that to Veuve Clicquot with nearly one million cases, or Moet & Chandon with more than double that. Quality control is nearly impossible when a house produces at that level. The best reason to try Grower Champagne: the taste is simply better than traditional Champagne. Besides the aforementioned benefits, the large houses often make excessive use of sulfites as preservatives. Sulfites won't give you headaches—sorry, it's true—but they

will make Champagne taste like wet, burnt matches. The Growers have some of the toastiness imparted by yeast, but it's a hint, not a drumbeat. What you mainly get is fruit—tons of ripe fruit and zippy acid. Oklahoma City can offer about eleven different Grower Champagne houses to choose from right now. They are priced to be competitive with traditional Champagne. Amie Hendrickson, a certified sommelier at Edmond Wine Shop, said, "We stock over ten choices because they are all different in subtle ways. We offer Veuve Clicquot Brut, one of the most recognizable Champagnes, and Aubry Brut, the most affordable grower of Champagne in our market, at competitive prices so that people hunting for a nice bottle of Champagne will always have the option to try a Grower. It's our version of 'face off' where everyone wins." For people who know and love Champagne, rosé Champagne is often a favorite. Paul Bara Rosé is a fantastic and moderately affordable—by Champagne standards—option as an introduction. The Metro Wine Bar & Bistro carries a new Grower, Veuve Fourny, in half bottle, making it even easier to sample these fantastic Champagnes. Other metro restaurants championing the Growers include Boulevard, Cafe 501, Coach House, La Baguette, and Packard's. Wine shops where you can grab a bottle of Grower bubbly include Broadway Wine Merchants, Edmond’s Coffee Creek and Edmond Wine Shop, Freeman's Liquor on N. Western, and Norman’s Spirit Shop. A lovely meal or a lovely day, we find both reason enough to relish a bottle of Grower Champagne. Greg Horton is the Territory wine columnist. 75


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Drake story continued from page 51

and lemon. Close your eyes and you’re in San Francisco with both these dishes, promise. Both Greg and I are going to take a pass on the Lobster Roll, The Drake’s top seller; The Drake serves it up with a crunchy tarragon sprinkle we found distracting. We also disliked the corn tortilla crisps with the Sea Scallop Ceviche, which overwhelmed the scallops’ natural delicacy. But all is forgiven with the desserts. Imagine Lupita Nyong’o and Elvis had a food baby, and you get a feel for the luxurious Chocolate Hushpuppies. And I will cut a fool that tries to share the homey Lemon Cloud Pie made with a Biscoff cookie crust, Limoncello-spiked whipped filling, and generous lemon zest. The Drake team, particularly Culinary Director Robert Black, takes sincere pride in committing to the most sustainable sourcing they can practically attain, even though it triples supplier complexity. The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list guides their choices. It’s too early to judge service, but our waitstaff was knowledgeable about menu items and eager to please. It was nice to see some A Good Egg veterans behind the lively bar stretching across the back wall. The sleeper hit there is the wonderfully complex Sir Francis Drake, a preview of rum’s coming popularity nationally:

Jamaican Navy-strength rum, pomegranate syrup, and local Hibiscus Strong Tonic. Greg, Territory’s wine columnist, reports: "the fantastic by-the-glass wine list is forward-thinking, respectful of tradition, and diverse." A Good Egg's beverage director Jason Ewald features wines that pair well with seafood from all over the world. In a decision that ought to inspire wine nerd glee, he included a sparkling Vouvray by the glass. Try that amazing burst of Chenin Blanc with oysters, and your world will change. Or go with a Verdejo from Spain, or even the Pinot Gris from Adelsheim, one of Oregon's most esteemed winemakers. We also get to luxuriate in Grower Champagnes, Tamarack Cellars, Copain, Jorge Ordonez, and more. Ewald had eight taps to work with, and he had the great good sense to include Lagunitas Pilsner, Black Mesa ESB—simply one of the best beers from Oklahoma—and the well-balanced Anthem IPA. Two years ago, graffiti declared rights to the building where The Drake now stands. Today, folks in this neighborhood dig in and invest in making things a destination worthy of the attention. Says Heather Paul, who grew up in OKC, “The biggest compliment I ever hear is when (diners) say they brought someone from out of town to one of our restaurants and they can’t believe this is Oklahoma. I like that because I feel like this is the new Oklahoma. It’s our Oklahoma.”

Country Roads story continued from page 72

A cooperative shelter is huge when it comes to making the system work. Humans hold the solutions to most of the problem: an increase in spay/neutering and microchipping, and even an attitude shift, could bring real change. Louisa McCune, executive director of the Kirkpatrick Foundation, advocates the idea of animal welfare vs. “animal control,” the term stenciled on vehicles in Nichols Hills. “‘Animal control’ sounds like a opossum in the back yard. Using language like 'animal welfare' helps educate,” McCune explains. “We have to do the same thing Dillard’s does. We have to promote and market our message.” The Kirkpatrick Foundation can tackle some of the more complex issues related to education and awareness.

But animals that need saving now need rescue organizations like Country Roads. McCune said getting the animals in front of people is a great strategy, and Country Roads does that very well. Latham puts on adoption events at large, diverse gatherings from Fassler Hall most Friday nights to the upcoming Plaza Fest September 26— anything to get the pups away from the needle.

“We have been successful in saving the dogs nine of ten times.”

Midtown Vets (midtownvets.com) and The Bella Foundation (thebellafoundation.com) regularly sponsor inexpensive microchipping events, too. And by the way, Duke is still looking for a forever home. Follow social media for adoptable pets and events: Instagram @countryroadsanimalrescue and Facebook countryroadsanimalrescue.com. 77


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THE GIFTS OF LAND AND SKY AN OKLAHOMA HUNTER ON GOOD EATS DURING BIRD SEASON. story and recipe by Justin Townsend and photos by Jake Deardorff I was raised in rural Durant, where hunting and fishing are something you become involved in at a very young age. I’m a citizen of the Choctaw Nation, and it was commonplace for my family to supplement our meals with wild fish and game. For many, a passion for the outdoors was also a necessity to survive. I do not depend on it for survival, but it resonates for me as a way of life, and my passion has grown as I have become an adult. Though I moved away from home and put my outdoor life on hold while at university, I did pick up some other valuable skills. I learned my way through the kitchens in New Orleans and educated myself on how to properly cook and serve a great variety of foods. When I moved to Southern California, I took my passion for the outdoors and paired it with my love for food. I’m now editor-in-chief of Harvesting Nature, a site dedicated to hunting and fishing stories and recipes. In modern times, many have a serious disconnect between what they eat and the plate; generations have grown up thinking you can only get your food from a grocery store. Just a few decades ago, people still headed out into the wilderness to hunt and fish for their meals. Sourcing food from nature has many more benefits. The animals I hunt and the fish I catch go straight from 80

the wild, where they are humanely harvested, to the stove/grill, and then to the table to feed my family. This notion was ever so important as I became a husband and then a father. I want to know that the food we eat is not harming my family, and the only true way to verify that is to find the food myself. Dove and quail seasons are usually pretty popular among hunters. As the first to open, dove season usually brings lots of birds and hunters itching to find them. There’s a definite adrenaline rush when there are birds flying all around. Dove and quail carry a mild, earthy flavor with hints of butter and nuts. Their territory and feed tweak those notes, too. Pheasant tastes like high-quality chicken that has lived a wilder life. Upland game birds are pretty popular to eat for many because they lack the heavy “gaminess” that many fear. To celebrate the opening of quail, dove, and other game-bird hunting seasons, this delicious recipe that can be prepared with any upland game bird. (You can also substitute store-bought game birds—quail is especially easy to find.) Townsend is editor of harvestingnature.com.


ROASTED QUAIL WITH SAGE AND SQUASH CORNBREAD DRESSING INGREDIENTS 6

chukar, or pheasant 1 box

Jiffy corn muffin mix

½

white onion, minced

1c

diced celery

1c

diced squash or zucchini

2c

of chicken or turkey stock

3 tbsp butter 2 tbsp minced fresh sage 1 tsp

PREPARATION

semi-deboned* quail, dove,

ground white pepper

1 tsp

garlic powder

1 tsp

salt

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and preheat a large cast iron pan on medium high heat. 2. Prepare the corn muffin mix as instructed on the box. 3. Melt 1 tbsp butter in the heated pan. Add onion, celery, squash and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring frequently. 4. Remove the pan from the heat and add the cooked veggies to a large mixing bowl. Crumble up the cornbread into the bowl. 5. Add the stock, sage, and half of the seasonings. 6. Stir until thoroughly mixed. 7. Use the remaining seasoning to coat the outside of the quail pieces. 8. Use the remaining 2 tbsp of butter to coat the inside of the pan, if not too hot. Add the cornbread mixture to the pan, top with the quail pieces, and bake for 20–30 minute or until the quail and the bread are a nice golden brown. (For larger birds, cook to an internal temperature of 165 degrees. This may require partially cooking the larger bird first, and then adding the dressing.)

*Semi-deboning the bird can be a bit difficult, but it’s totally worth it. Use scissors to cut on either side of the backbone, leaving a U-shaped bird. Remove the wishbone and use fingers to separate the meat from the rib cage. Then snap the thigh bone at the joint. Finally, feel all around the meat for little shards. There are many tutorial videos online, too. 81


Territory OKC Fall Issue 4  
Territory OKC Fall Issue 4  
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