Road Tripping On Hawai’i’s Big Island
By Terri Marshall
America is beautiful and its 50th state takes that beauty to another level. A road trip on Hawai’i’s Big Island reveals striking volcanic landscapes, massive lava fields, verdant rain forests, stunning waterfalls and extraordinarily gorgeous ocean views. Discover all these natural wonders on a 232-mile road trip around the island of Hawai’i. As road trips go, this one’s epic. By the way, in this article, we have chosen to spell Hawai’i the way most local Hawaiian people do.
Begin your explorations in Hilo on the island’s east coast where you don’t even have to leave the city limits to catch your first rainbow sighting. Located within the city, Rainbow Falls cascades 80 feet over a lava cave that –according to legend – is home to the ancient Hawaiian goddess of the moon, Hina. As you make your way north of Hilo on HI-19 also known as Hawai’i Belt Rd, the Hāmākua coast unfolds before you. A short 15-mile drive brings you to the rainforest within Akaka State Park. Lush vegetation, ancient banyan trees and an incredible array of multichromatic flowers line the .4-mile foot path that leads to Akaka Falls – a memorizing free-falling waterfall that plunges 442 feet into a deep gorge.
the valley floor.
Nearby, Waimea unveils the Hawaiian version of big sky country. Sitting at an elevation of 3,000 ft, herds of grazing cattle roam the hilly landscape and paniolo (cowboy) culture adds cowboy hats, boots, horses and rodeos to the mix. From Waimea, take HI-250 25 miles north to Kapaau before turning on HI-270 for an additional six miles to reach the Pololū Trail. Carved into the long dormant Kohala volcano, the Pololū valley’s lush green pastures meet a stunning black sand beach surrounded by steep cliffs spilling into the ocean. View this scenery from the lookout above or take a short hike down to the black sand beaches at the valley floor to stand amid the grandeur.
As you continue along HI-270 to the intersection of HI-19 on the island’s west side, awe-inspiring ocean vistas expand on the right while seemingly endless lava fields cover the landscape to the left. Situated on the western slopes of the Hualālai volcano at the ocean’s edge, the village of Kailua-Kona boasts gorgeous beaches, numerous resorts and worldfamous golf courses. Coffee lovers will enjoy a stop at the Kona coffee plantations set among the lush forests in the area.
Further south, the Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park shares the rich history and cultural stories of the Hawaiian Islands.
Driving straight onto HI-11 – Hawai’i Belt Road – the island curves back toward the east bringing you to the Captain Cook community. A short but steep hiking trail leads down to the Captain Cook monument on the beach. Rich with an abundance of fish, coral and green sea turtles, the waters off the coast near the monument provide an idyllic snorkeling adventure. If you’re not up for the hike, consider booking a kayak or boating tour to the area. Forty miles down HI-11 you’ll reach South Point Road that leads to South Point Park – the southernmost location in the USA.
Standing on the shell-covered beach watching the Pacific Ocean waves crash over the surrounding lava fields serves as a visual reminder of the intense power of nature.
Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park
Speaking of nature’s power, no road trip around the Big Island would be complete without spending some time in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. Home to Kilauea, one of the most active volcanoes on Earth, and Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on the planet, the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park protects some of the world’s most unique biological, geological and cultural landscapes. Extending from sea level to 13,680 feet, the park is a designated International Biosphere Reserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walk into cultural history along the Puʻuloa Petroglyphs hiking trail that leads across bedrock lava fields to a boardwalk over the sacred etchings. Not to be missed, the Chain of Craters Scenic Drive extends just over 18 miles to the end of the road where mesmerizing sea cliffs await. For an exceptional finale to this extraordinary road trip, backtrack about 40 miles west of Hilo to experience a sunset on the summit of Mauna Kea. From its underwater base to its summit, Mauna Kea stretches 33,000 feet, making it the largest mountain on earth. You’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to get there, but it’s worth the white-knuckle adventure to watch the sun melt into the clouds on top of the world!
WHERE TO CAMP
Punalu’u Black Sand Beach Park
Located on Hawai’i’s east side, the Punalu’u Black Sand Beach Park features 12 RV sites with outdoor showers and bathrooms. Although there are no RV hookups, campers often see Muscovy ducks and sea turtles on the black sand beach which more than makes up for any missing amenities.
Kulanaoluaiki Campground
A drive-up campground located within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Kulanaoluaiki features driveways large enough to accommodate Class B RVs. There are nine RV sites with no hookups or showers. There are picnic tables and incredible stargazing and even views of the smoke from the top of the park’s active volcanoes.
Nāmakanipaio Campground
Operated by Hawai’i Volcanoes Lodge Company. Nāmakanipaio Campground is located 31.5 miles south of Hilo on Highway-11 at 4,000 feet elevation. It is a large, open grassy area with tall eucalyptus and ‘ōhi’a trees. Amenities include restrooms, water, picnic tables and barbecue pits. The Hawai’i Volcanoes Lodge also operates rustic camper cabins at the campground. The cabins sleep four and include a picnic table, an outdoor barbecue grill and an outdoor firepit. Reservations are required.