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Portuguese Grande Complication. Ref. 3774: The life of a watchmaker would be different if it weren’t so complicated.
spurred on by one dream: the dream of discovering new territory. The Portuguese Grande Complication is the company’s proud flagship and
In fact, it would be pretty monotonous. So it’s just as well that IWC Schaffhausen has entire teams of specialists devoted to developing new mechanical complications, that consistently explore the bounds of what is possible. It’s something Schaffhausen’s engineers have been doing since 1868. And like the early pioneers of marine exploration, they are
brings together many of the achievements of modern watchmaking. Housed compactly inside the case are a perpetual calendar that is mechanically programmed until 2499, a power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound, a perpetual moon phase display and a highly complex IWC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N . minute repeater.
I WC S C H A F F H AU S E N B O U T I Q U E S: PA R I S I V I E N N A I R O M E I M O S COW I N E W YO R K I B E I J I N G I D U B A I I H O N G KO N G I G E N E VA I ZU R I C H I WC .CO M
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Swiss movement, English heart
C9 H A RRI SON BI G DAY- DATE AU TOM ATI C
Made in Switzerland / Modified ETA 2836-2 automatic movement with Big Day-Date complication by Johannes Jahnke / 38 hour power reserve / 43mm, Hand-polished, 316L stainless steel case / Anti-reflective sapphire crystal / Exhibition case-back / Italian leather strap with Bader deployment
YOU CAN TELL A GOOD WATCH BY ITS HEART. The most important element of a genuine Armin Strom is the movement. Not only is it where the work begins, it is also at the heart of the design. This means that everybody who checks the time will always see the beauty of the technology. arminstrom.com
MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ATC11 16½‘‘‘
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Twenty four Contributors
From the editor Editor
firstname.lastname@example.org 020 3617 4693 Art Director
email@example.com Sales Manager
firstname.lastname@example.org 020 3617 4697 Senior Account Manager
email@example.com 020 3617 4687
March is a big month in the watch world. With the huge Swiss watch show that is Baselworld kicking off on the 27th, this handsome city on the Rhine becomes, for a few days only, the centre of the watch industry. If you’re reading this in Basel – Tempus is being distributed throughout the event for the first time – then you’ll know just what a singular experience it is for any watch lover. The chance to strap on some of the world’s finest timepieces is one that every self-confessed watch aficionado would relish. If you’re not there, however, then turn to page 54 to get an upfront take on what event visitors have in store for them. Granted, not every brand releases preview information, so rest assured that we’ll be running a follow-up article in a forthcoming issue, highlighting the best of the rest. Elsewhere, we investigate the London art scene, take a spin in a rally-spec Porsche on an ice driving challenge in northern Sweden and head to Dubai for a boat-based fashion shoot. Closer to home, we turn the spotlight on some of London’s best bespoke tailors, head up the iconic Shard for one of the capital’s finest Chinese dining experiences and reveal the best in rugged high-end cameras. Enjoy the issue.
curve content Tempus is published monthly by curve content Ltd, 3-7 herbal hill, london EC1R 5EJ printed by
A regular writer for the Daily Telegraph’s watch supplements, Hannah gets a sneak peek at some of the timepieces being released for Baselworld on page 54.
One of the UK’s foremost watch writers and a regular contributor to Tempus, this month sees Ken define the qualities that make a watch truly iconic. You can discover which models made the cut on page 31.
As the editor of ArtReview, the respected international contemporary art magazine, Mark is well placed to comment on London’s booming art scene. Find out why the UK’s capital is also a cultural superpower on page 66.
Scott Manson Editor - 11 -
Rapport Watch Winders The Ultimate Winder for Prestige Automatic Watches
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Inside issue twenty four 14 Take Me There Those
80 A Watch for all Styles
visiting Switzerland for Baselworld should take a detour for Zurich’s fabulous thermal baths
Whether you’re an intrepid type, an old-school gent or a debonair dude, there’s a watch out there for you
17 Luxury Briefing This
92 White Heat
month’s most intriguing luxury offerings
27 Food and Drink Where
drink and be merry
A stylish fashion shoot on the coast of Dubai
101 Bohemian Rhapsody We
31 The Word Ken Kessler
reveal some inspirational jewellery collections, courtesy of new jewellery brand Misahara
on iconic watches, Charlie Birkett on yacht trends and Scott Manson on surviving Baselworld
107 Write of Passage Discover
36 The Watch Snob AskMen’s
the elegant world of prestige writing instruments
columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums
117 Eastern Promise Why
the Asian market is enjoying a boom time when it comes to superyachts
38 Auction Watch Our
pick of the best pieces going under the hammer
120 Best of British Bentley’s
40 Fashion and Accessories Five
latest stunning V8 S model is a car to covet
pieces to give you the look of luxe
42 Object of Desire All
123 The Drive of your Life Fancy
eyes are on the latest release from Jaquet Droz
some ice driving or playing Bond for the day on a tour through the Alps? Here’s our pick of the best driving experiences
45 Style Advice: Bespoke Tailors
Three of London’s finest nippers and tuckers
126 Super Tough Shooters
49 Good Times Tennis
A cherry-picked selection of some of the world’s most robust cameras
ace, and Richard Mille ambassador, Rafael Nadal, on playing through the pain 54
Cover illustration by Marta Cerdà @debutart.com
Face Time A
sneak peek at some of the best that Baselworld has to offer this year
66 Boom Town London’s
art scene is stronger than ever, says ArtReview’s Mark Rappolt
Special thanks: Steve McC ubbin, Christina Ryder and Graeme Allen
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131 The New Havana Drop
your preconceptions and see why Cuba’s capital has more to offer than ever before 138 Moments in Time Rudolph
Valentino, idol of silent cinema, and his Cartier Tank watch
Take me there
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- Sw i tz er la n d The watch world may be congregating in Basel in March to see the ultimate in luxury timepieces at the Baselworld expo, but canny travellers should venture out after the event to take in some of Switzerland’s many natural delights. The country is already loved for its stunning views and superb skiing, but its lesser known thermal baths are worth a visit too. Zurich’s Thermal Baths and Spa can be found in an atmospheric grotto surrounded by hundred-year-old vaulted stone walls, making for a truly immersive experience. Afterwards, take a dip in the outdoor rooftop thermal bath and enjoy the panoramic views of Zurich’s skyline as the sun goes down.
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Because the best things in life aren't free Modification magic
C la r k A b el
Clark Abel has created a stunning new take on the Evoque, adding large angular intakes, wide arches and a sharply sculpted face and flanks to create a car thatâ€™s more aggressive and imposing than the original. The company specialises in producing unique, one-off custom builds, which means the skyâ€™s the limit for customers looking to create the car, yacht or jet of their dreams.
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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -
One of one
A r m i n St ro m
Armin Strom’s incredible One Week Earth Skeleton nods to the brand’s 40 years of manufacturing skeleton watches with their exposed bridges and bottom plates. The beautiful ARM09 movement with double-going barrel can be admired through the dial ring, as can the gear train bridge engraved with waves – a stylish reference to Monaco, where this one-of-a-kind piece is set to be auctioned.
S c h er er Au d i o
Scherer speakers are that rare combination of seriously advanced audio engineering with slick design. The Evince uses a five-stage transmission line design to output powerful, accurate bass, time-aligned to match a single fullrange driver. The cabinet itself is crafted from Scandinavian birch plywood for a striking look that keeps it ultra-modern.
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Little shop of treasures
D eu x i em e
London is full of hidden gems – tucked-away boutiques that only the fashion cognoscenti know about. Deuxieme, on the capital’s New King’s Road, is just such a place. If you’re looking for fabulous pre-loved designer clothing for yourself or your partner, all vetted and selected by the store’s expert fashionistas, then this is a must-visit. The last time we visited, the boutique’s two floors were filled with fashion from the likes of Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Laboutin, Chloe and many more. Better still, there’s a cute garden café attached – the perfect place to park husbands and boyfriends.
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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -
U lyss e N a r d i n
Watch brands are always keen to mark Chinese New Year by showing their expertise, and Ulysse Nardin is no exception. The Classico Horse was created using the intricate champlevĂŠ method, where a chisel is applied directly on the dial before the cells are filled with enamel. The result is a beautiful dial in black, white and green, all produced from different metallic oxides for a simple earth-tone palette.
ulysse-nardin.ch - 20 -
- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -
Already loved for the specialist diving watches it produces, Oris doesn’t disappoint with its latest release, the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge. It’s the first of its kind to measure depth by allowing water to enter the timepiece using a unique gauge in the sapphire crystal. An all-black aesthetic and rubber strap ensures it cuts a dash when you’re on terra firma too.
In the know
B row n's H ot el
London’s West End just got more civilised, thanks to the new art tours offered by Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair. Each week a participating gallery director will take guests on a personal tour of their favourite shows and galleries in Mayfair. It will mean circumventing the hundreds of private shows to cherrypick the very best and taking in artworks that are diverse, many of which are only known to the art cognoscenti. roccofortehotels.com
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QUINTESSENTIAL BRITISH LEATHER GOODS SINCE 1934
The Bullion Collection www.ettinger.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616
The iconic sports cars by
Swiss artist Dante presents a unique collectible 1:24 sculpture of most famous iconic sports cars. The legendary Lamborghini Miura is the fourth in the award winning artistâ€™s series of iconic sports cars: the Mercedes Benz 300SL , the Aston Martin DB5 and the Ferrari 250 GTO. A limited edition of 50 pieces from each car will be made in solid silver finished with 24 karat gold. One special edition of each iconic sports car will be made in solid gold of 18 karat, finished with 24 karat gold. Every art piece comes with a piano black lacquered case and solid silver USB Stick finished with 24 Karat gold, containing the certificate and a number of videos of Danteâ€™s artwork.
Design by Dante GmbH Murtenstr.34 CH-3202 Frauenkappelen Schwitzerland firstname.lastname@example.org www.dantedesign.ch
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N au m i H ot el
The newly reopened Naumi Hotel in Singapore has launched with a cutting-edge design ethic. Rooms inspired by Coco Chanel are in striking monochrome and are decorated with her trademark camellia flower motif, while rain-showers and smokescreen bathroom glass panels keep it luxurious. The more artistically inclined will enjoy the Andy Warhol rooms, which are devilishly decadent and feature iconic furniture in a dramatic setting. naumihotels.com
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- fo o d & d r i n k -
Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens Hutong
Reviewed by Scott Manson
I’ve been lucky enough to visit the two other restaurants – Oblix and Aqua Shard – that are currently resident in London’s Shard. Both are decent establishments, benefiting from the wow factor that comes when you step out of the lift on the 33rd floor for the first time and take in one of the best views of the capital. With Hutong, though, I really have saved the best for last. It’s the London outpost of a well-regarded restaurant of the same name in Hong Kong, serving a brilliant take on the spicy food of northern China. For those who are familiar with the Cantonese style which is more prevalent in Britain’s Chinese restaurants, you are in for a very special treat. The panoramic view aside, the space itself is nicely done with intricate lattice work wood and carved doors evoking an Oriental aesthetic. There’s even a ‘wishing tree’ with dangling notes on it, although I imagine constantly ducking under it must really get on the waiters’ nerves after a while. Talking of duck, if there’s one thing you must try it’s the roasted Peking duck, served traditionally in two stages. The first involves
some theatrical tableside carving by a whites-clad chef wielding a seriously sharp cleaver. With each stroke he offers up shards of beautifully crisp skin and meat, served with gossamer-thin pancakes.The remainder of the duck comes later in the meal, served in an umami-rich vegetable mix and wrapped in lettuce leaves. Further highlights included de-boned and deep-fried lambs’ ribs, some gorgeously glutinous black sesame dumplings and a host of impressive dim sum offerings, including baked pork puffs with Chankiang (black rice) vinegar, crystal crab meat dumplings and the classic that is prawn and pork sui mai. In truth, this is a place that requires a repeat visit because the vast menu demands further attention. The braised pork short ribs that I saw delivered to an adjacent table, for example, are already mentally filed away as a must-have. The arrival of Hutong is another jewel in the crown of London’s high-end Chinese dining scene. Curious visitors might go for the view, but you’ll return time and again for the food. aquahutong.co.uk
Wiltons opens new bar
Wiltons, a St James’s fine dining institution since it launched in 1742, has now opened a brand new oyster bar. A favourite with politicians and royalty, the new bar offers a less formal dining experience, giving visitors the opportunity to enjoy a glass of champagne and a lighter menu at the bar. The St James area itself is undergoing something of a renaissance, so this is the perfect time to check it out. wiltons.co.uk - 27 -
- fo o d & d r i n k -
Keeping it kosher
The Kosher Food and Wine Experience was a new one on me. I had no idea that 100 Bordeaux chateaux, such as Le Crock and Leoville Poyferre, have a separate line of kosher wine, with the entire winemaking process supervised by Sabbath-observant Jews. The labels are all familiar, but on the back it says ‘Kosher for passover’. There were many unfamiliar vintners, particularly from Israel, whose chardonnays from Galilee were almost all drinking very well. And a lot of surprises, such as Morad Passion Fruit Wine, which was simply delicious. The Imperial
It’s been a long time since I ventured down the King’s Road. It’s funny to think that, back in the mid-80s, it was the epicentre of cool. These days, of course, it’s lost that cutting-edge cachet, but my recent visit reminded me of what a thoroughly lovely place it is to hang out. Following an exhausting afternoon spent indulging in some retail therapy – I’d forgotten just how long that road is – I was glad to fall into the comforting embrace of The Imperial, a newly refurbished Chelsea restaurant and bar. With its high ceilings, big windows and open kitchen, the whole place has a bright, airy feel. We considered plonking ourselves in the cute bar area and just enjoying a day of white wine and snacks, but my sensible partner insisted we head to the 50-seater restaurant. There’s outdoor seating too, on the King’s Road itself – which is great for people watching, but a chilly afternoon in January is not the day to do it.
Reviewed by Sharon Bishop-Villero Instead, we hunkered down in the cosy room and studied the menu which, eco-types should note, only uses British produce. It’s a well-thought out list which, while including gastropub must-haves such as pork belly and ribeye steak, also has plenty of more esoteric options to pique the interest of foodies. My starter was a case in point. It comprised generous hunks of torn smoked mackerel in a piquant beetroot and apple slaw with horseradish crème fraîche. There were a lot of contrasting flavours going on there, but it worked beautifully. For mains, my veggie dining partner opted for the roast pumpkin and parsnips, chestnuts, golden sultanas and blue cheese and pronounced it “a triumph”. It certainly looked the part – a healthy plateful of beautifully cooked winter vegetables, cut through with a punchy British cheese. My main was similarly seasonal – a tender chicken breast served with a combination of butternut, pecans, a wonderful blue cheese mousse and a sprinkling of honeyed figs. To accompany the feast, our waiter directed us towards a fruity, velvety Argentinian malbec, which proved more than a match for the strong cheese in our dishes. My advice is to rediscover the delights of the King’s Road, and be sure to drop into this excellent gastro outpost when you’re all shopped out. the-imperial.co.uk/
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by Peter Dean
Chateau Haut Condissas, 2011, Rollan de By
When the grapes of this classic Bordeaux house are ready Lionel Tonnerieux phones the local rabbi, who arrives with ten Jewish pickers. Everything is done by hand and strictly regulated, with all equipment only used for the kosher wine. Not a classic vintage, but approachable now with a good mouth-feel and youthful tannin.
kedemeurope.com, £66 a bottle
Alexander Grand Reserve, 2009
Despite the almost kitsch label with swirly gold relief, the wine itself is superb, with the 60% cabernet sauvignon powering through an almost Amarone-style weight. Having spent almost four years in wooden barrels (two in new wood) this is built to last and will be amazing in 10-20 years if you can keep your hands off it for that long.
kedemeurope.com, £96 a bottle Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon Chalk Hill, Clone Six
This unfiltered cab sauv was outstanding. Pure cassis on the palate, well balanced, with an almost Old World acidity and minerality that you only associate with the very finest Californian cabernets from Mondavi and the like. This is a brand producing outstanding wines at the top end of the range and one to seek out and start collecting.
kedemeurope.com, £95 a bottle
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What makes a watch Ken Kesler iconic?
Ken Kesler is one of the UK’s leading watch writers.
Among the most over-used and abused terms in the marketing world, ‘iconic’ has been misused with almost as much lack of concern for its definition as ‘awesome’ – an adjective once reserved for something that, uh, inspires genuine ‘awe’. Hardly the term one should use for Joey Essex’s new trainers, eh? Regardless, ‘icon’ has made the transition from an image of Christ for the Eastern Church to anything that symbolises a movement (e.g. Che Guevara) or even a family of watches. Thus, the Miura is the iconic Lamborghini and Rolex’s Submariner is its iconic model, just as, one might posit, Joey Essex is an icon for stupidity. If we’re being linguistically generous, and accept that words change meanings over the years, then every watch brand of any longevity probably has an iconic model in its catalogue. A savvy watch enthusiast will rattle off without hesitation the names of the iconic models that represent well-known brands. Jaeger-LeCoultre? The Reverso. Glycine’s is the AirMan, Longines has the Lindbergh. Patek Philippe? Aah, here we have two: the Calatrava and the Nautilus. Doxa’s orangedial diving watch defines ‘the iconic watch’, as worn in Clive Cussler’s Dirk Pitt novels. This works for every brand with an identity and longevity. Audemars-Piguet’s is surely the Royal Oak, while Breitling’s is the Navitimer. Omega’s is the Speedmaster Professional and Cartier fans worship at the altar of the Tank. Panerai only has two primary models – Radiomir and Luminor/Marina Militaire, and they’re both icons. Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and Breguet’s Type XX are so iconic that the companies had to revive them out of sheer
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respect. IWC has its ‘MK’ series, now up to Mk XVII, but purists go for the Mk 11. You can do this for hours – I’m surprised it hasn’t appeared as a quiz in a watch mag. Maybe it has…. But what do all of the above have in common? Plenty, and I say this to the consternation of, and as a warning to, brands that are – paraphrasing what Dean Martin said of Mia Farrow when she was marrying Frank Sinatra – younger than the Scotch in my drinks cupboard. Call your threeyear-old design ‘iconic’ at your peril. Unless, like the above, a watch boasts the following, it is no icon: 1) Every brand listed above is at least a century old. (Glycine celebrates its 100th anniversary this year, by the way. Happy birthday.) 2) Every model has been around for over 25 years, in continuous production. 3) Every model is inherently ‘right’: either functional or elegant or both, but never grotesque. Although I’m sure Jacob & Co thinks its five-dial monstrosity is iconic. 4) Every model is desirable to a wide spectrum of wearers, even the ones that seem tightly targeted, e.g. the Breitling Navitimer was designed for pilots, but there are probably more in any bar in the City after 7pm than at any airbase. Future iconic models as yet too young to be ‘venerable’? Hublot’s Big Bang, the square Bell & Ross BTR01 models and A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 with ‘big date’ spring to mind. And as for the entire concept of something being iconic, well, I guess you could say ‘Thank Christ for that.’
best of british Peter Wilson Mbe, olympic Gold Medallist London 2012, with a holland & holland â€˜sportingâ€™ over-and-Under shotgun. A gun made entirely in our London factory.
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Yacht trends Charlie Birkett
Charlie Birkett is the CEO and Founding Partner of luxury yacht company Y.CO
Following a strong close to 2013, we have been looking ahead to the developing sales and charter trends and are excited by what we see. The age of our charter clients is getting younger and younger, and their expectations of a yachting holiday with family and friends is very different from those in the past. Today’s nautical explorers are more ambitious, more adventurous and more eager to discover exotic and off-the-beaten track destinations, and are looking to combine this intrepid approach with a luxury aesthetic. Chartering a superyacht provides total escapism in the most amazing places on Earth, waking up to a new view every morning. The destinations that we see gaining popularity include the Antarctic, French Polynesia, Indonesia and Burma. The road less travelled, in other words. Our charter client base is predominantly made up of families, and we are now finding two or three generations travelling together. This presents its own unique challenges, including creating itineraries that cater to the needs of all guests onboard - from six weeks to 60 years old. One day could find us arranging for a visiting tutor, nanny or a marine biologist, arranging dinner at the hottest new restaurant or, in a recent case, selecting an entire yacht crew based on their professional kite surfing abilities. Non-nautical families can sometimes find a yacht holiday slightly daunting but these vessels are far more child friendly than they first appear, particularly as many have been built with families specifically in mind. From interconnecting rooms with bunk beds, a whole
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crew to keep an eye on your little ones (and keep them amused), to an onboard planetarium or host of traditional arcade games – today’s yachts offer some seriously good entertainment options, which is crucial if the weather takes a turn for the worse. Water toys are always hugely popular and often at the forefront of innovation. The current trends include water-powered jet-packs, LED paddleboards, mini-submarines and water-kart catamarans. When chartering for the first time, clients shouldn’t let themselves be led solely by the look and design of a yacht, but should work with brokers to discuss exactly what they want to get out of the holiday, where they’d like to go and what they’d like to do. Whether it’s cruising to a secret cove in the Caribbean, diving with a PADI-qualified crew member or enjoying Michelin-star food, the best crew combination should be able to offer all of that. This younger clientele is also affecting how the sales market evolves, as clients building new yachts are beginning to think more about function over form, and particularly how to reduce the environmental impact, as well as trimming running costs. Some owners are working closely with designers and yacht builders to pioneer new technologies, such as extended, efficient battery power that allows the yacht to spend longer out of port without having to use a generator, to ways in which to reduce the overall fuel consumption. Oh, and one final piece of crucial advice for the perfect voyage: relax. If you fancy staying somewhere a day longer, then do it. There are few better ways of unwinding than time spent at sea.
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Surviving Baselworld Scott Manson
Scott Manson is the editor of Tempus
Around January each year, the Baselworld arguments begin. Who goes and who stays? It’s an issue that causes more officer consternation than any forwarding of a NSFO email or annoying desk overspill. The canniest office negotiators begin the year by carefully constructing good business reasons why they simply have to be at the world’s biggest watch and jewellery fair. With its all-day conferences, bundles of promotional material and impeccably-clad attendees, it’s business. However, it’s business conducted in the handsome town of Basel which, for one week only, becomes the centre of the watch world. And, come the evening, turns into party central. Or, at least, that’s been the Tempus experience over the past couple of years. Indeed, so bacchanalian are the delights of Basel after dark that one member of the Tempus sales team managed to miss every watchmaker appointment the following day, leaving yours truly to hold the fort. Unsurprisingly, he’s no longer with us. Making it to meetings aside, there are a few other key rules that every visitor, whether you’re a seasoned veteran or a Baselworld newbie, should follow. Most importantly, take a shedload of cash. Basel makes Moscow and Tokyo look like bargain cities, and simply jumping in a taxi seems to cost the price of a decent meal before the car has even moved. I’d also advise visitors to have a thesaurus to hand because, frankly, after a week of checking out some of the world’s best watches, your well of superlatives will run pretty dry. Oh, and your feet will hurt, unless you wear some boringly
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sensible shoes. The Baselworld halls are vast aircraft-hangar affairs – albeit ones filled with willowy promo girls and some of the most decadent product stands known to man – and you will do an awful lot of walking. The most organised visitor will schedule appointments with a 10 minute gap between them, and ensure that they plan them by area, as well as by time. In truth, though, almost everyone is constantly running late, so be prepared for plenty of last-minute schedule changes. Oh, and if you’re reading this, and you haven’t yet booked your accommodation then, frankly, you’re in trouble. Every decent hotel, and lots of terrible ones, will be fully booked. Get ready for a daily border crossing to Germany if you’ve failed to secure a Swiss hotel. You’d also be advised to travel light, but take an enormous bag with you. Every stand you visit will load you up with heavy, glossy brochures, memory sticks, T-shirts, pens and, in the case of one luxury brand a couple of years back, a really rather lovely tie. Indeed, you can have some fun hunting down the brand with the best goodies – a Hermès leather whip was a highlight for the Tempus team in 2012, not least because it raised a few eyebrows at check-in for our flight home. The best advice I can give, though, is to enjoy it and to see as many brands as you can. Not just the biggies in Hall 1, but also some of the indie operators in the smaller spaces. Because Baselworld is more than just a promotional opportunity for brands, it’s a chance for watch fans to connect with watchmakers and get up close and personal with some of the world’s most wonderful timepieces.
Got a question about timepieces? Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…
partake in a patek?
Should I forget about Fossil?
Dear Snob, I saw a used Patek Aquanaut for a reasonable price, but the specs said it had a quartz movement. Has Patek ever used quartz or was that a mistake? If not a mistake, would acquiring a quartz-run Patek be a crime against nature? Buying used is the only way for a mere mortal like me to acquire a fine timepiece, but I don’t want to cheat my way in.
Hi Snob, You’ve written off Fossil watches in the past as mere junk, but now they have a Swiss-made group of watches, and I wonder if they are any good. They look nice and are in my price range at less than £700.
Hello Watch Snob, I remember a bit of advice you once gave in your column, about resisting the temptation to accumulate a bevy of mediocre watches instead of acquiring a truly exceptional one. I have endeavoured to take this advice to heart and have put aside about £7K, resisting many an urge along the way. I’m now seriously considering purchasing a Chopard L.U.C. Classic Twin in white gold. What’s your opinion of the L.U.C. line? Is the 4.96 movement respectable? Or am I on the verge of wasting my self-control to this point?
The answer to all three of your question is “yes.” Yes, Patek has used quartz movements. Yes, it was a mistake, and, yes, it would be a crime to acquire one of these pieces. The Aquanaut has always been the entrylevel Patek, regrettably built for people like you who want the name on the dial at an affordable price and with a rubber strap. Egad! The quartz movement in the 35-millimeter size is the death blow to this watch family for me, and it’s almost enough of a travesty to make me want to run screaming to Glashütte and never look back. Lange would never do such a thing. But everyone is allowed a mistake from time to time, and though a quartz Aquanaut is Patek’s, don’t make it yours as well. Save your money and get a proper timepiece.
Why does everyone think slapping the “Swiss made” label on a dial is some magical remedy for mediocrity? The Swiss are just as capable of producing rubbish as any other country, as anyone who has read even a handful of my columns knows. The dirty secret is that “Swiss made” just means the majority of the watch’s value is derived from components made by those mountain-dwelling cheese-eaters. Display these watches in some moody lighting in an expensive-looking display case and Fossil can expect the bleating masses to swoon as they open their wallets. It will take a lot more than the label on the dial to make me reconsider Fossil.
Not a bad choice at all, although personally I find the design a bit uninspired. The real reason for buying the Classic Twin is the LUC calibre 4.96, which is one of the nicer movements made not just by Chopard but by anybody. Now, however, is the time to avoid buying on impulse; you’re getting into territory where there are an awful lot of interesting possibilities starting to open up, and while the Classic Twin isn’t a bad watch, if it doesn’t really get your motor running in a big way – and I mean big – wait. Remember what T. S. Eliot said about a “moment’s surrender/which an age of prudence can never retract.”
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Underthe hammer Lots of luxury – from a right royal watch and brooches to a highly desirable timepiece and an Ambassador’s collection of Russian icons
Desk clock is POA. (TEFAF) is from 14-23 March. tefaf.com
Estimated at £42,000. The Chrono 24: The Legend of the Rolex auction will take place on Saturday 22 March. auctionata.com
Hancocks Fine Art Fair will exhibit some beautiful pieces that formerly belonged to European royal families. Highlights include Van Cleef and Arpels court jester brooches, dating from 1937 and a superb 1925 LaCloche Freres desk clock.
This classic Rolex Oyster Perpetual chronograph is a collector’s dream. Made in Switzerland around 1945, it’s one of the earliest chronograph references to be manufactured in stainless steel, 18ct gold and 18ct pink gold.
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Bonhams’ art sales are renowned for offering truly beautiful pieces. The next important sale is the collection of US Ambassador Laurence A Steinhardt’s collection of Russian icons, with pieces dating from the 16th to 20th centuries. The Ambassador was admired for his discerning eye, and his collection includes some of Russian art’s most prestigious works.
Highlights are estimated from around £50,000 to £75,000. The Divine Treasures: Important Russian Icons from the Collection of Ambassador Laurence A Steinhardt sale is on Thursday 10 April. bonhams.com
HATTERS SINCE 1898
73 JERMYN STREET LONDON
252 RUE DE RIVOLI PARIS
+44 (0) 207 930 2329
+33 (0) 214 260 3609
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The look of luxe The latest must-have accessories for him and her 01 Hublot Developed with luxury experts Marcus Marienfeld, AG and Zeiss, these sharp Hublot sunglasses have high-performance adaptable lenses and a tough titanium frame. The TriFlection coating mean they require less cleaning.
02 Christopher Ward
03 Andrew Geoghegan
The C1000 Typhoon is inspired by the Typhoon FGR4 jet. It pays tribute to the technical accomplishment of the jet and includes a ceramic outer case, an inner titanium one and a modified Valjoux 7750 movement. christopherward.co.uk
Jewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan has just unveiled the extraordinary Phoenix, with its stunning green tourmaline, tanzanite and diamonds in 18ct yellow gold, combining high drama and beauty to dazzling effect. andrewgeoghegan.com
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04 Begg & Co
05 Wallace Chan
Begg & Co has been producing beautiful scarves from Paisley, Scotland since 1866. The company combines its history of weaving expertise with modern technology to create scarves made from buttersoft cashmere, silk and lambswool angora yarns.
This luxury jeweller has released a sneak peek of this beautiful brooch. It has a titanium and gemstone setting, creating two-tone petals that frame a stunning 6.05ct ruby, surrounded by emeralds, pink sapphires and white and yellow diamonds.
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Jaquet Droz Jaquet Droz is highly revered for the beautiful dials it produces; the result of artisans who specialise in meticulous miniature painting, engraving and sculpture. The new Grande Seconde SW C么tes de Gen猫ve has the same exacting aesthetic but it is a sportier piece, combining slick design with the famous C么tes de Gen猫ve clean lines that give depth to the watchface. Two off-centred dials nod to the Grande Seconde and the Grande Seconde SW models that preceded it, but an anthracite grey and luxe alligator strap bring it bang up to date. jaquet-droz.com
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PERSONALLY TAILORED SUITS CREATED FOR YOU At Jasper Littman we specialise in one thing only - bespoke and semibespoke suits measured, ﬁtted and delivered by our visiting tailors. Using the ﬁnest English fabrics, our bespoke suits are created exclusively in England. Our tailors visit at a location convenient to you, ofﬁce or home, and have over 10 years of Savile Row experience.
Our tailors can give you the uninterrupted attention and time, so often short in retail environments, to ﬁnd out what the suit is for, what will suit you and any special requirements you may have. If you would like to ﬁnd out more about how our suits are made visit our website at www.jasperlittman.co.uk To book an appointment please call this number (24 hours): 08456 121 220
jasperlittman.co.uk 08456 121220
- Sty le A dv i c e-
Words - Hannah Silver
cutting crew A bespoke suit represents the epitome of understated sophistication. Here our ‘style council’ explain what goes in to creating a timeless piece of tailoring
Dege & Skinner
William Skinner, managing director, on the true meaning of bespoke
“It’s interesting to consider bespoke tailoring and fashion design together because, in essence, having something created as a pure bespoke piece means it’s a timeless addition to a gentleman’s wardrobe, rather than something that follows the latest trend. We have customers who wear their bespoke suits and coats for many years, often with alterations made to enable them to wear the garment for as long as the cloth maintains its shape and silhouette. It’s worth remembering that the term ‘bespoke’ means a very distinct thing in tailoring – the suit length chosen is ‘bespoken for’ by an individual customer and
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phrases like ‘Sunday best’ originated in tailoring, when men wore their best suit to attend church. Being a pure bespoke tailor, our styles at Dege & Skinner naturally reflect the individuality of the wearer, with the overall look influenced by the firm’s distinctive military and equestrian heritage, dating back to 1865. Our tailoring team discuss where the individual customer might wear the outfit, choosing the most suitable cloth weight for the climate and humidity where it’s going to be worn most often, adding their knowledge of specific cloths to ensure the customer is pleased with what they have made when it’s delivered some weeks later.” dege-skinner.co.uk
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Nino Santoro, founder, on Italian elegance
founder, on the construction of a suit ”Our philosophy is to tailor suits that will fit you infinitely better than anything you can buy off the peg. Our bespoke suits are cut and tailored in England using the finest fabrics to create the quintessential English suit. At Jasper Littman, we believe in incorporating only the highest quality trimmings and
interlinings in our suits.
“Fashions may come and go, but style lasts forever. We’ve been supplying fine bespoke tailoring to ladies and gentlemen from our store at 40 Brewer Street, in the heart of bustling Soho, for more than ten years. Our lineage stretches back a bit further than that, though. My father, Franco (pictured above), has been working in tailoring since the age of seven. He’d go to school until 1pm and then head to the tailors, where he’d sit under a table sewing by hand. By the age of 12 he was allowed to move on to trousers, then waistcoats and then jackets. By the age of 20 he was ready to fit customers.
It takes time and expertise to make a suit properly, and it must be made using only the finest components if it’s going to keep its shape for any length of time.”
It’s this unique grounding in fine Italian tailoring that sees my father still making suits and jackets for us to this day. If you want a proper Neapolitan suit, then he is the only man to turn to in London. Boxer David Haye, actor Michael Madsen and the sprinter Usain Bolt all wear outfits by Nino’s. It’s not just bespoke items though – we also produce fabulous ready-to-wear jackets, blazers and outdoor wear, plus shirts, ties and cufflinks. Drop in and see us some time.”
All of our suits, whether bespoke or semi bespoke, are either half canvassed or fully canvassed. Our suits are all stitched together. Nothing inside is glued. Inside the lapel, for example, lengths of horse’s tail are woven into the canvas and this makes the suit more springy and resilient, and helps it to keep its shape.
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The Art of Bespoke Tailoring
There is no substitute for experience
RAJ MIRPURI BESPOKE CLOTHIERS since 1976 Geneva
London 110 New Bond Street, Entrance on Brook Street T: 020 7907 9110
1er Etage, 12 Rue du Marche 6ème étage, 7 Place du Molard, 1204 Geneva T: 022 816 3780 T: 022 816 3780
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Words â€“ Alexandra Willis
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T he power and t he glory
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On a Thursday evening in South West London in 2012, Lukas Rosol, then the 100th best tennis player in the world, roared at the Wimbledon roof in disbelief. He had just beaten No. 2 seed Rafael Nadal in the second round of Wimbledon, the Spaniard’s earliest defeat at a Grand Slam since 2005. As an injured Nadal disappeared home to Majorca, pundits, players and public wondered if, this time, his knees would not recover. But eight months later, trademark bandana on his head, Richard Mille RM27 watch on his wrist, and racket in his left hand, Nadal returned in a blaze of glory more successful than anyone could have predicted. Of 17 tournaments played in 2013, he won 10 of them, two of them Grand Slams, reached the final of four more, and lost just seven matches. Nadal, back at world No. 1, began 2014 in the same vein, thundering his way to the Australian Open final. And he’s not done yet… How do you feel about what you achieved in 2013? It is very special what happened last year. For me, the emotions after a tough year for all of us have been fantastic. It is true that I played a lot of days with anti‑inflammatories, but I was able to compete very well, that was my goal, so I was very happy about everything.
will have less chances to be in the top position of the rankings.
Do you consider Novak Djokovic to be your biggest rival? You’ve played each other 39 times.
Yes, I think it is amazing
How important is the No. 1 world ranking to you?
It is not something that is a priority today. For me the main goal is to try to be here for a long time, for not just one more or two more years, and to be competitive in every tournament that I play. If that makes me miss some tournaments to protect my health, you
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playing 39 times. The last four, five, six years, the same players have been competing for every tournament, every single important tournament of the year. That’s something that didn’t happen very often – we are in a special moment
in the history of tennis.
You have had serious physical problems throughout your career? Is that just a part of sport?
It is something that is painful for me. But that’s part of life. That’s
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part of sport. It is not the end of the world. I feel very lucky that I have been able to enjoy much more happy moments than tough moments. And I feel very lucky to be able to work in something that I really love to do. Not everybody’s able to do that.
Fact File orn in Majorca, Spain B in 1986, Rafael Nadal’s talent was nurtured by his uncle, Toni, from the age of three after the former tennis player recognised the youngster’s aptitude on the court.
How difficult was the injury in the Australian Open final?
The last thing that I wanted to do was retire. I hate to do that, especially in a final. At the same time, it is tough when during the whole year you are working for a moment like this, and you feel that you are not able to play at your best. So it was not an easy situation for me, I tried everything until the last moment, but it was impossible to win this way.
How do you feel about your level of tennis? I am happy. I am proud about my attitude on court. I try my best every day, every practice, practising, playing with the right attitude, fighting for every ball. For my whole career, no?
What do you think
you can achieve in 2014?
This year is a special feeling, start again, and the goals are very similar all the time, to keep happy playing tennis and be competitive in every tournament, especially the important ones. But health is the most important
thing. Without health, the rest is impossible. I feel that I can have much more of a normal life than I did for the past year and a half. It is true that I am a professional tennis player, but I feel more happy when I am able to do different things.
nly Pete Sampras (14) O and and Roger Federer (17) have won more Grand Slam titles than Nadal. He has won the French Open a record eight times. adal’s famous on-court N rituals includes lining up two water bottles in front of his chair with the brand name facing out and sweeping the baseline and service line with his feet, even when it’s a hard court.
Rafael Nadal is a brand ambassador for Richard Mille watches. He wears the RM27-01, a super lightweight piece with a movement that is completely held in suspension. The baseplate is attached to the case by four braided steel cables just 0.35mm in diameter and the tourbillon caliber was designed to withstand Nadal’s swing force of roughly 5,000G. It weighs just 19 grams, and that includes the velcro strap. Only 50 models are available, priced at £413,000. richardmille.com
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Face - 108 -
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Words – Hannah Silver & Scott Manson
time As the hours, minutes and seconds count down to Baselworld, here’s a sneak preview of some of the hot horology to be savoured – This month sees some of the world’s biggest timepiece brands, plus a sizeable contingent of watch collectors, touch down in Basel, Switzerland, for the massive watch show that is Baselworld. Everything about this event is done on a grand scale, from the vast hanger-like halls where brands display their new wares, to the stands themselves – many of them costing millions of pounds to set up – to the lavish post-event parties and, for the Tempus team at least, the eyewatering expenses that can be clocked up simply by taking a few taxi rides. If you’re in the watch or jewellery business you need to be here. Although most brands like to keep their ‘novelties’ under wraps until the big reveal during the last week in March, when the event opens, we’ve managed to get a sneak preview of some of Baselworld’s hottest horology. Our cherrypicked selection starts here…
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Blancpain’s Villeret Collection is a classic piece that pays homage to the brand’s traditions. The name references the birthplace of the manufacture, while the use of an understated Grand Feu enamel dial nods to long-established watchmaking skills. When the dial catches the light it reveals a subtle ‘JB’ logo, the secret signature with which enamellists historically initialled their work. blancpain.com
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Like most of Hautlenceâ€™s pieces, the Destination collection is not only sleekly modern but almost futuristic in look and feel. Unlike the previous lines though, it is the first Hautlence release to feature a new complication: a dual time-zone indication. To ensure the interplay of discs and reading indications can be admired through the transparent design, the movement had to be modified by altering the day/night indication and adapting the hand cylinders. The impressive result is not only technically accomplished but also one of the brandâ€™s most streamlined pieces to date. hautlence.com
The PanoMaticInverse takes Glashutte Originalâ€™s 2008 achievement of revealing the inner workings of the watch a step further, with the addition here of the new Calibre 91-02, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. This feat was achieved by making the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment visible from the dial side, creating a beautifully elegant piece that combines technical sophistication with unusual design. glashuette-original.com
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The new Tetra collection from Nomos is available in four smart new colours, making it one of the most refreshingly offbeat new releases this year. The Berlin set takes the quintessential square-shaped Tetra and releases it in a bold turquoise, muted gold, deep green and midnight blue for a colourful and creative take on a classic timepiece. nomos-glashuette.com
The Breva Genie 02 Terre is a mechanical timepiece that uses a fully functional, highperformance mechanical altimeter to ensure altitude readings wonâ€™t be affected by bad weather â€“ indeed, the barometric altimeter found in the watch is more reliable than a GPS receiver for measuring altitude, as it will have no difficulty in finding a signal. Handily, the movement is framed with the names of popular ski resorts and their altitudes, so youâ€™ll never be unprepared on your next winter break. breva-watch.com
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The military-inspired Spirit Wing Commander from Speake-Marin is highly legible, featuring a crystal clear display with a big date and power reserve indicator. The calibre 1024SPM, an automatic winding rotor and 48-hour power reserve ensure thereâ€™s plentiful energy, whatever your requirements. speake-marin.com
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Founded by designers and watch enthusiasts Juliana Arbeláez-Renoult and François Renoult in early 2010, and based in the Swiss watchmaking heartland of La Chaux-de-Fonds, the watches are 100% Swiss-made and strictly limited edition. Its Baselworld release sees the preview of the second edition of its SM8 model, a timepiece that’s proved popular with those who love a rugged, well-balanced sports watch. suissemecanica.ch
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Ulysse Nardin continues its distinctive brand of casual elegance with the Dual Time Manufacture, an exceptional watch with a second time zone that can be adjusted both forwards and backwards. Like the Marine collection, it has a movement entirely developed and manufactured in-house, while a big date window display and silicon escapement make it one of the most technologically advanced Ulysse Nardin pieces yet. ulysse-nardin.ch
Victorinox is celebrating its 25th anniversary as a watchmaker by releasing a limited edition of the Dive Master 500 Chronograph, which is the first piece in the Dive Master collection to be powered by an automatic mechanical chronograph caliber. It looks the part too, thanks to a hardy case crafted from grade 2 titanium and a titanium grey dial. victorinox.com
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Chopardâ€™s L.U.C 1963 is the quintessential chronometer, harking back to the chronometers Chopard was producing in 1963, the year the Scheufeule family acquired the company. Theyâ€™re celebrating 50 years at the helm with this beautifully classic release featuring a generously-proportioned dial and elegant rose gold case. chopard.com
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The Speedmaster has an illustrious history. In 1969, the first astronauts on the moon were equipped with Omega Speedmaster Professional chronographs, and the same year Omega released its Speedmaster Mark II that was powered by the same space-tested, hand-wound calibre 1861. Now this classic piece has been re-introduced and updated to include an automatic movement and tachymetric scale that is visible even in exceptionally dim light – a first in the Speedmaster line. omegawatches.com
One of our under-the-radar favourites at Baselworld is Zeitwinkel, based in Switzerland’s Jura region since launch in 2006 and independent producer of classically elegant pieces. The 273°model is a case in point, offering a bright, highly legible dial with a large date, retrograde power reserve indicator and sub seconds dial. All mainplates and bridges are made of German silver and, with its sleek aesthetics and reserved style, it represents a perfect marriage of Swiss and German watchmaking. zeitwinkel.ch
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Words â€“ Mark Rappolt
As auction prices hit record highs, London has become the epicentre of contemporary art, attracting the worldâ€™s leading artists, art dealers and benefactors
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The Costume of the Painter Phantom of Museum Gm, J.L.David red shawl hn lenticular and oil on canvas 182 x 259 cm (72 x 102 in)
BAE JOONSUNG The Costume of the Painter
6-29 March 2014
Bae Joonsung (born 1967 Kwangju) continues his highly acclaimed series ‘The Costume of the Painter’ in his first solo exhibition in the UK to be held throughout March 2014. In his appropriation of old master paintings and scenes in Museum settings, Bae Joonsung explores the interplay between his two chosen media – oil painting and photographic lenticular imagery. Since 2006, Bae’s introduction of lenticular lens within his paintings has made for a spectacular and effortless viewing experience. The unexpected reveal of Asian female nudes and the voyeuristic juxtaposition of viewer and viewed are themes exquisitely portrayed and encourage us to find a new way of looking at art.
ontemporary art is big business right now. According to the marketmonitoring website, Artprice, last year global sales of art at auction hit $12.05bn, the highpoint coming in November when Francis Bacon’s 1969 triptych Three Studies of Lucian Freud fetched a record-breaking $142.4m (£89.6m). But it’s not just the classics that are being traded for big money. Sotheby’s London contemporary sales in February generated £104.5m (just over $172,140,855). Works by Oscar Murillo, a Colombian-born, London-based artist, have increased in value by around 5,629% in the past three years (so, for example, a work that sold for $7,000 in 2011 went
for $401,000 in 2013). Murillo is only 28 years old. It’s not just the artists who are becoming stars. If you flipped open the 15 February edition of the FT Weekend, you would have found a profile of one of the art world’s most successful art dealers, American Larry Gagosian, whose operation is estimated by Forbes to have a turnover of almost $1bn. Larry was given the treatment that’s normally reserved for Hollywood celebrities and music stars, and proceeded to tell us about his fetish for non-fat Greek yoghurt and fresh pomegranate seeds, his aversion to ties and the brilliance of Enzo and Ken, the barbers at London’s Dorchester Hotel. You don’t even have to make art to be important, you just have to make a connection with it; it’s
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HIGH ACHIEVER: Francis Bacon’s tryptych, Three Studies of Lucian Freud, achieved the highest bid at auction
Image courtesy of Christie’s and The Estate of Francis Bacon
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become a lifestyle, an expanding social scene. London’s newest art fair, Art14, currently has an advertising campaign on the London Underground based around an offering of lunch menus “curated” (a word that once seemed specifically to mean someone organising an exhibit in a museum or gallery) by the capital’s celebrity chefs. Gagosian operates 12 galleries in eight cities – among them New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and, of course, London. Fellow
New York heavyweights David of opening a rural retreat in MAKING A MARK: Zwirner, Pace Gallery, Michael Somerset). These join successful Oscar Murillo’s Work! #9 makes Werner and Skarstedt also homegrown galleries such as use of elements like operate branches in the English White Cube (home to Damien spray paint and dirt capital, and they’ll be joined by Hirst, Tracey Emin and many of the artists associated with the Marion Goodman later this year. Other international galleries operating out of YBA generation of the 1990s), Lisson, Sadie Coles and Victoria Miro. And all of them, London include Germany’s Sprüth Magers, Italy’s Massimo De Carlo, Swiss behemoth like their international counterparts, operate Hauser + Wirth (which until recently had out of London’s West End. three London spaces and is in the process While there are many artists based in
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Image courtesy of Sotheby’s Contemporary Art Evening Auction, 12 February 2014. Lot 30, Property from an important private collection Oscar Murillo. B. 1986 Work! #9 signed and dated 2012 on the overlap oil, oil stick, concrete dye, spray paint and dirt on canvas and linen 325cm x 225cm.; 128in x 85½ in.
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020 7431 0794 www.tommerrifield.co.uk
London has a diverse offering of exhibitions at any one time, on show in its major museums and some of the best international galleries, and there are many events that I am looking forward to in 2014. Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs, opens at Tate Modern on 17 April (until 7 September 2014) and is a must-see. Matisse is one of my favourite artists and his cut-outs are some of the finest works of the 20th century. They are extraordinary bursts of expression and represent a radiance and renewal of creative energy that is particularly poignant as he began them in the last 14 years of his life. This is a major exhibition that will bring together around 120 works and the largest number of “blue nudes” ever shown together. I’m also keen to see the iconic Van Gogh Sunflowers at The National Gallery. This will be the first time in 65 years that the two works will be shown side by side in the UK. Of the shows I’ve seen so far this year, I highly recommend all of the Richard Hamilton exhibitions, on concurrently at the ICA, Tate Modern and the Alan Cristea Gallery. Pace gallery also has a show of James Turrell’s glassworks, following his museum exhibitions at the Solomon R Guggenheim Museum in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art (until 6 April 2014), and The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. Finally, the V&A show, William Kent: Designing Georgian Britain, will showcase nearly 200 pieces from the V&A’s archives and private collections. I have always found William Kent fascinating as he was a key designer in early Georgian Britain and would turn his hand to everything from architecture and furniture design to painting and sculpture.
“Tate Modern now has curators focused on art from Africa, the Middle East and Latin America” London, it doesn’t have the same reputation as a hot spot for artistic production as, say, Berlin, New York or Los Angeles. Instead it’s its character as an international melting pot that keeps it at the forefront of art. And that’s not just reflected in its commercial art galleries, but its museums too. By far the biggest of these, Tate Modern, now has curators focused on art from Africa, the Middle East and Latin America, among many other territories; its collection committee focuses on North America, the Middle East, Russia and Eastern Europe, South Asia, Asia Pacific, Africa, and Latin America. None of these directly relates to art produced in London (or the UK), but they do reflect what makes London such an important place. Many of the world’s biggest art benefactors, the kind of people likely to be on one of the Tate’s committees – among them heiress Maja Hoffmann (Swiss, and
ADMIRING VIEW: A gallery visitor scrutinises a Zhang Enli painting
Nazy Vassegh is the CEO of Masterpiece London, the premier UK fair for art, antiques and design. masterpiecefair.com
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Installation view, Zhang Enli. The Box, Hauser & Wirth London, 2014. © Zhang Enli. Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth. Photo: Alex Delfanne
Nazy Vassegh, CEO of Masterpiece London, on the capital’s hottest shows for 2014
AdriANO ribOlzi GAllery
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« Shoes », 1980, TP Silkscreen ink and diamond dust on paper, 102,2 x 151,1 cm
november 22nd, 2013 February 15th, 2014
“Commercial art is cool… Jay Z performs with artists in commercial galleries” David Roberts, or business currently constructing a massive EYE-CATCHING: magnate Poju Zabludowicz arts complex in Arles, France), This painting by Yan Lei certainly (together with his wife Anita) Candida Gertler (wife of German makes a big have gone one step further and property-owner Zach, who impression opened their own galleries based runs a significant international art production fund) and Chelsea FC on their private art collections. owner Roman Abramovich’s partner Contemporary art isn’t just big business, it’s Dasha Zhukova (Russian, and currently also cool. Hollywood stars James Franco and Shia LaBeouf have started making art (the constructing a massive arts complex in former having had a solo show at Pace’s St Petersburg) – maintain a home in the London outpost last year) as has rapper capital. Others, such as property developer
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Pharrell Williams. Jay Z performs with artists in commercial galleries, while Kanye West is so moved by art that he launched into an impromptu premier of his new album at the world’s biggest contemporary art fair in Switzerland last summer. It has got to such a state that rap-star Drake recently complained to Rolling Stone magazine that Jay Z “can’t drop bars these days without at least four art references”, before concluding that he thought “the whole rap/artworld thing is
Yan Lei (Chinese) Landing Shanghai ©, 2007 210cm x 300cm Acrylic on canvas. Image courtesy of Art 14 London
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getting kind of corny”. And, fashion aside, there is a danger that the more ubiquitous contemporary art gets and the more artists attempt to produce works that fit with art’s ubiquity, the less it appeals. That if art means everything to everyone – that a work influenced by a specific context (geographical or otherwise) means exactly the same thing in whichever context it is shown or experienced – it really means nothing at all. “I am not sure the model of the ‘local’
gallery has a future,” ex-pat New York dealer Gavin Brown recently said, contemplating the rapid expansion of international gallery brands. Looking at current trends, he may be right. But while that may be true of the commercial sector, it’s not true of the art scene in London as a whole. This is where the city’s less-glamorous public and notfor-profit spaces come into play. Spaces such as the South London Gallery (where the aforementioned Murillo had his first
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UK museum show in 2012) in Camberwell, the Chisenhale Gallery in Mile End, the Whitechapel Gallery in Tower Hamlets and tinier spaces such as Cubitt in Islington, Studio Voltaire in Clapham or the network of small art spaces that are currently regenerating areas like Peckham. They’re edgy because they’re off the edge of the West End-centred money map, and that allows them to show art that explores the social, political and economic issues that govern
A House of Leaves. Second Movement. Installation View. Ben Cain, What Will We Do For Work Now, 2012; Keith Coventry, 1938, 1994-2006. Image: Mark Blower. Image courtesy of the David Roberts Art Foundation
“London will maintain its status as one of the major international centres for contemporary art”
G etting crafty
Couture wallpaper designer Claire Coles on the rise and rise of the UK’s craft movement
daily life in the city. As public funding for the arts diminishes, they rely increasingly on the same benefactors and collectors to support them, as do London’s commercial galleries and major museums. But as long as both these sides of the London art world thrive, the city will maintain its status as one of the major international centres for contemporary art.
I have been working within the craft and design sector for 10 years now, and over this time I have seen the perception of craft alter. To be honest, I’ve always struggled with the word “craft”, and prefer the term “applied or decorative arts”, but recently it seems it’s kind of cool to be a craftsman. In the culture of a mass-produced market people seem to be turning towards handcrafted design. Personally I have seen an increase in clients commissioning bespoke art and I work with them to come up with a unique piece. I think there is something very special about having contact with the artisan – it gives great insight into the work you are buying. Buying handcrafted work is now a new kind of luxury. There are also some great organisations and brands helping to raise the profile of contemporary craft. Last year, for example, I was asked to join the Perrier-Jouët Art Salon. This has been a great opportunity for me to network and debate with people from the arts. The Salon supports the selection of an annual prize winner from the contemporary craft sector, who receives a substantial sum to support them in the development of their career. As you can see from the image above, last year’s winner – Hitomi Hisono – creates some truly beautiful works. I am very hopeful for the future of craft. It’s a world in which I have thrived and enjoy working in tremendously.
WALL DONE: This installation, What Will We Do for Work Now, by Ben Cain makes a giant impact
Claire designs and produces embroidered wall panels and couture wallpaper murals for interior designers, architects and private clients. Claire will next exhibit at Decorex (21-24 Sept 2014). clairecoles.co.uk Perrier-Jouët is a boutique champagne house, renowned for its floral elegance and roots within the arts. perrier-jouet.com
Mark Rappolt is editor of ArtReview
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B espoke bronze
Those looking for some personalised art for their home or office should take a look at Nelson & Forbes Sculptures. Managed by Deborah Foster, the daughter of a portrait sculptor, the company produces wonderful sculptures (such as the one pictured above), handmade by English craftsmen using traditional techniques. All the work is cast by hand in English foundries, using the ancient technique of lost wax casting. It’s also the only company that casts the work of renowned artists Jonathan Sanders and Sue Maclaurin in bronze. While Nelson & Forbes has a number of pre-designed pieces to choose from, many clients go the bespoke route by commissioning a unique piece. This generally takes around six months until the first bronze casting arrives. Similarly impressive is the sculpture work of Tom Merrifield, whose gallery is pictured below. A former ballet dancer and principal dancer at a number of West End productions, Tom left the stage to take up drawing and sculpting full-time. He has since sculpted many of the world’s most famous dancers, including Alina Cojocaru, Dame Alicia Markova, Dame Beryl Grey, Dame Antoinette Sibley, Anton Dolin, John Gilpin, Sir Anthony and Wayne Sleep. He also created the bust of Diana, Princess of Wales, commissioned after her death by the British Red Cross and displayed at its offices in London. Tom’s work is in private collections worldwide and he is available for bespoke private commissions.
GHOSTLY VIEW: A phantom appears in this inspiring work by Bae Joonsung
Left hand image: The Costume of Painter – Phantom In the Painting, J.S Sargent Family, courtesy of the Albemarle Gallery
A lbermarle G allery , L ondon In the often overheated world of Mayfair art galleries, Albemarle Gallery stands apart as a beacon of exquisite taste and careful curation. It’s built a reputation for introducing exciting contemporary painting and sculpture from international and UK-based artists. Drawing from an impressive stable of established and emerging artists, the gallery is renowned for its stimulating figurative and hyper-realist exhibitions and its visually stunning sculpture installations. Its philosophy is simple – to represent artists whose work transcends the aesthetic and challenges the intellect. Little wonder, then, that many of the gallery’s artists are represented in public, corporate and private collections. March’s highlights include works by Iain Faulkner, Rado Kirov and Bae Joonsung, whose fascinating work explores the interplay between his two chosen media – oil painting and photographic lenticular imagery. albemarlegallery.com
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THE BRONZE AGE: Stylish sculptures, large and small, can make their mark in your home
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Words â€“ Hannah Silver
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A watch for all
Take a look at wonderful, action-packed watches which will bring out the James Bond, adventurer, footballer or gentleman in you
For those looking to channel their inner Bond, there’s only one watch that will do, and that is an Omega. Yes, he’s dabbled with Rolexes in the past, but it’s the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M that you can currently clock on Daniel Craig’s wrist. It’s powered by a co-axial calibre 8507 and features the unidirectional rotating diving bezel and helium escape valve that makes it perfect for underwater action, should an unusual day at the office lead you there. omrgawatches.com
Urwerk’s futuristic aesthetic makes it the perfect choice for budding 007s. One of the newest models, the UR-210, is a case in point. A revolving satellite complication with retrograde minute is combined with the first complication to indicate winding efficiency over the last two hours, making for a truly unique combination. urwerk.com
Christophe Claret’s Poker watch might seem lighthearted, but it’s as good at bluffing as Bond himself. The exceptional automaton watch took two watchmakers over two years to create as they battled with the challenge of incorporating a complete 52-card game with a mechanical movement. Users can play a real three player game of Texas Hold’em and there are 32,768 different combinations to keep you amused. Just add a tux and a martini for the full Bond experience. christopheclaret.com
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It’s been going on a while now, but all the cool kids are still rocking their Panerais. For the classic hipster look, go for the latest Luminor – it features the Panerai P.5000 calibre and has an eight-day power reserve. For extra style points, wear it with a rough customised strap. panerai.com
Bell & Ross
A chic brand but one with serious watch clout. The Vintage Original collection is inspired by 1940s pilot watches and boasts authentic details including functional movement, beautifully legible dials and satin finish cases – a timely reminder that classic shouldn’t mean boring. bellross.com
Dunhill’s Classic Crushed Black Diamond watch, with an automatic movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre, is not only one to watch but also promises to keep you ahead of the horological masses. It’s a smart piece with an all-black dial featuring crushed black diamonds mixed into lacquer, adding an elegant touch. dunhill.co.uk
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Didier Drogba loves his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, arguably a surprisingly sophisticated choice, although his bespoke model comes covered with a more footballerfriendly 449 diamonds. Even without the diamonds, the Royal Oak Chronograph is impressive – the columnwheel chronograph is a sophisticated component that starts, stops and resets operations with minimum force to avoid wear. Look out for the latest limited edition which honours another footballer, Lionel Messi. audemarspiguet.com
Richard Mille has a great relationship with footballers, who love the over-engineered, robust nature of his pieces. Richard Mille has reciprocated with the RM 11-01, in tribute to footballer turned manager Roberto Mancini, which displays the match time in two 45-minute halves. Even the details are well thought out: if a match goes into extra time, the flyback function can be reactivated so the watch shows the 15 extra minutes – a handy feature for professional and amateur footballers alike. richardmille.com
Diego Maradona and Pelé love Hublot watches for their fearlessly futuristic look. The new Big Bang Unico All Black, which partners an in-house manufactured movement with the legendary Big Bang design, is classic Hublot. hublot.com
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at last, a watch that adjusts to all 39 time zones on earth.
ASTRON. By developing a low-energy-consumption GPS receiver, Seiko has created a watch that connects to the GPS network and uses it to identify both time of day and time zone. The new Astron recognises all 39 time zones on earth and, by taking all the energy it needs from light alone, never needs a battery change. seiko-astron.com
email@example.com 01642 245255
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A classic Patek will never date and is, without doubt, the must-have piece for every cultured fan of fine horology. The Calatrava is one of the most respected modes. Dating back to 1932, itâ€™s instantly recognisable and is devastating in its simplicity. patek.com
A Lange & Sohne
The Lange 1 Tourbillion Perpetual Calendar, now in pink gold, is another vintage-inspired masterpiece that combines two classic complications with truly iconic design. Its tech credentials are as impeccable as its aesthetic, as the perpetual calendar display advances instantaneously and only needs to be adjusted by one day in 2100. alange-soehne.com
The Bremont brand is a genuine modern classic, with an emphasis on fine craftsmanship, lucid lines and pared-down design. Its most impressive release yet, the Codebreaker, incorporates original parts of an Enigma machine, used in the Second World War, in the rotor. bremont.com
The Breitling Super Avenger Military chronograph easily lives up to its name thanks to a robust, carbon-based black coat and a 300m water resistance. It’ll suit even the most intrepid adventurer, with helpful features like a dial that’s in ‘military-time’ – 24 hours – which should help avoid any mid-action confusion, and a COSC-certified chronometer. breitling.com
Victorinox’s Night Vision range features no-fuss, eminently wearable gadgetry. Its useful lighting features, including a strobe, night vision and rescue light, have made it a trusted favourite among those who like to take the road less travelled. victorinox.com
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II is perfect for intrepid types thanks to a highly-resistant steel case, Chromalight display and graduated bezel that enables a second time zone function. rolex.com
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Zbären Kreativküchen AG Bahnhofstrasse 26 . CH-3777 Saanenmöser . Telephone +41 33 744 33 77 firstname.lastname@example.org . www.zbaeren.ch Official Dealer
Saanenmöser . Gstaad . Lenk
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White Photographer:Â Addy Adnan
Dubai's cityscape is the stunning backdrop for our boat-based look at highly desirable fashionÂ and jewellery
Jewellery by Misahara, bikini modelâ€™s own
Stylist: Sleiman DayaaÂ Hair and make-up: Anya Poniatofska Creative director: Veronica Voronina Production assistants: Andrea Merle, Pamela Crespo Model:Tatiana Shamratova
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Jewellery by Misahara; dress by Mashael Al Faris
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Jewellery by Misahara, top by Azeeza Kham. Watch: Omega Constellation
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Jewellery by Misahara; white tutu and pink pants, Tala Ardalan Yacht: Akhir 90 Nasima
Jewellery by Misahara; silk blouse by Anne Fontaine. Watch: Rolex Daytona
Gavin Gardiner Limited ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Auctioneers of Fine Modern and Vintage Sporting Guns, RiďŹ‚es and Accessories
Forthcoming Auction: 11th December at Sotheby's London On View: Sotheby's 34-35 New Bond Street London W1A 2AA 10th December 9am to 4.30pm 11th December 9am to 1pm Auction at 2pm Catalogue ÂŁ17 by post
Tel 01798 875300 or 07831 645551 www. gavingardiner.com
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Words - Hannah Silver
Bohemian rhapsody Distinctive and luxurious jewellery brand Misahara is inspired by different cultures and lovely locations. And Lady Gaga is just one of its fans
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“There are big showstoppers that go with a stunning gown at night”
For a relatively new jewellery brand, Misahara is incredibly selfassured. Just three years since inception, it’s launching its boutiques around the world and the eclectic, luxurious pieces are worn everywhere from the beaches of St Tropez to the restaurants of Russia. Lepa Roskopp, designer and co-founder, sourced stones and bought jewellery as she travelled the world for her other successful business, The True Collection, which she set up with her husband. This exclusive, members-only club provides one-of-a-kind travel and adventure experiences, offering unrivalled access to out-of-the-way locations and elite travel experts. For Roskopp, her love of fashion combined with a lifetime of travelling to create the inspiration for her first collection. “After years of spending my own money on jewellery, I had a natural tendency to want to go and do my own thing,” Roskopp explains.
Finding the right manufacturers and sourcing stones from Africa, Hong Kong, Brazil and more, with manufacturing in New York city led to the creation of Misahara. Jewellery lines quickly followed, with the impressive Adriatic Collection a particular highlight. Taking inspiration from the Adriatic sea, sky and sunsets, it was also informed by her Slavic heritage. “I grew up in a bi-cultural household, partly in Yugoslavia, so it’s really tied to my family and culture. The jewellery brings different cultures together and is part of a lifestyle. There are sexy pieces like the cuff, pieces with very unique beading that can be worn with a bathing suit on the beach or the big showstoppers that go with a stunning gown at night.” The pieces are beautiful and incorporate precious stones, black diamonds and bright gemstones such as ruby beads and sapphire.
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“I’ve done something different and created the lifestyle behind it”
“We do our own manufacturing in New York and have in-house setters so there’s immense quality control,” Roskopp says. They take requests, creating bespoke moulds for clients who want to be the only owner of a particular piece. “There are lots of interesting requests – the Russians are typical for that. Sometimes I’ll refuse a request to move to bigger, bolder stones as it stops being my design, Usually, though, as long as it’s not gaudy we are pretty flexible.” Her clients are clearly happy with the brand philosophy. The customer base is growing rapidly and includes high-profile fan Lady Gaga, who loves the brand’s luxurious bohemian feel. Like Gaga, when it comes to comparing herself to others in the jewellery market, Roskopp insists that her work is genuinely unique. “I’ve done something different and created the lifestyle behind it,” she says.
The locations where the jewellery will be available – Porto Montenegro, Dubai, London, St Tropez, Monaco and New York – are places that hold a resonance for her. Events held at these locations will emphasise the lifestyle aspect of the brand, such as the launch of the Adriatic Collection in Montenegro which partnered with The True Collection for a big launch, making it about more than just the jewellery. Like the stones that glitter on her creations, the brand has a bright future. There are plans to venture into Moscow, the UAE and NYC, with shows scheduled in Dubai, Cannes, Monaco and Porto Montenegro. For Roskopp, all the hard work and planning is always worth it. “It’s difficult navigating motherhood and doing what I’m doing. You struggle with the challenges but after the show I see people happy about the collection and I love it; this is it for me now.” misahara.com
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Easy Connection. Exceptional Sound. Loewe Speaker 2go. Portable Bluetooth speaker with hands-free speaker phone. RSP ÂŁ269. Available in silver or black. www.loewe.tv
Imagine... Imagine the fun Imagine the freedom Imagine the luxury Imagine yourself onboard.
Photography by Marc Paris.
MY IMAGINE is just one of the hundreds of stunning yachts we have available for charter this summer. Please contact one of our expert charter brokers for more information.
MY IMAGINE | 65m (214â€™) | Amels | 2011 | 12 guests | â‚Ź465,000 per week
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Words â€“ Ellie Brade
east er n
promise Asia is charting an impressive course in the superyacht industry in attracting interest from near and far
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MAKING WAVES: The Illusion will be the the largest yacht ever built in China
Europe and America have long been the central hubs for yacht owners, but increasingly there are newer markets capturing the attention of the superyacht industry. More than any other market, Asia has moved from being one to watch to a focal point for superyacht businesses. A groundswell of appetite for luxury products, growing local interest in the superyacht sphere and the fiscal ability to participate in it, have all pointed to the suitability of the region as a market of increasing importance over the past few years. A superyacht is fast becoming the must-have accessory for Asia’s most wealthy. An increasing number of superyacht and luxury lifestyle shows and events within the region have been the perfect showcase for yachting in the region. With superyacht industry stalwarts establishing an Asian presence and Asian companies causing a stir, there has been a wave of relationships fostered between the superyacht industry and the Asian market in recent years. Those relationships have proved the catalyst for superyacht activity in Asia to really hit its stride. A large potential client base, beautiful cruising grounds, and real manufacturing ability mean the Asian region is only just getting started. Key boat shows in the region include the Hainan Rendezvous, billed as China’s leading show, and the Singapore Yacht Show. Hainan blends fashion, jets, jewellery, art, cars and yachts to bring together the height of luxury from around the world. Sold at the 2012 edition of the show, 45m M/Y Blue Sky, built by Dutch yard Feadship, made her debut at Hainan in 2013 to great acclaim and is
one of the biggest yachts in China. The Singapore Yacht Show too is growing in popularity every year, with some of the world’s finest yachts due to be on display at the 2014 edition (held 10-13 April), including 67.4m S/Y Vertigo and 60m M/Y Cloud 9. As well as boat show presence, many European brands have invested in increased marketing in Asia. Interaction with local clients has shown that this is a discerning, sophisticated market and a carbon copy of European trends was never going to be adequate. Catering to the Asian market has called for research and for customisation and although every yacht owner is different, regardless of nationality, the design of Asian-owned yachts leans more towards corporate entertaining than to sun-worshipping, and to shorter day trips, than long-range cruises. As well as the wider industry chasing the Asian market, yards based in the region are also taking their offerings to the world. One example is Chinese superyacht yard, Pryde Yachts, which unveiled its 88m in-build yacht Illusion at the Monaco Yacht Show 2013 last year to an audience eager to see this new offering from the east. Set to be delivered in 2015, Illusion will be the largest yacht ever built in China and her impressive dimensions were well-received at the show. The Asian superyacht market is no longer just one to watch; it’s one to pursue relentlessly. Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence thesuperyachtgroup.com
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Photography: Emilio Bianchi, courtesy Hessen Yachts.
Pure elegance, on land or sea.
Interior Design - Furniture - Nautical Interiors
Coote & Bernardi has designed some of the most soughtafter residences in Londonâ€™s Mayfair, Belgravia and Knightsbridge. Weâ€™re proud to extend our interior design and bespoke furniture expertise towards the nautical industry. For truly outstanding interiors and a unique personalised service from inception to completion, call our London office or email email@example.com
C OOTE & B E R NARDI 59 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8NE T: +44 20 7259 0960 cooteandbernardi.com
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Words – Kyle Fortune
best of british Bentley’s lovingly crafted car is a breed apart Bentley Continental GT V8 S Price
0-62mph - 4.5 seconds
Top speed 192mph
4.0-litre twin-turbocharged V8 developing 528Bhp at 6,000rpm and 680Nm of torque at 1,700rpm
eight-speed automatic, all-wheel drive
Aluminium and steel.
The Continental GT has been a resounding success for Bentley. The British luxury marque has continually honed its big-selling model, the latest in the line being the V8 S, which taps into the zeitgeist in a uniquely Bentley way. The V8 isn’t new, it arrived in 2012, Bentley’s idea of downsizing being a mere 4.0-litre twin-turbocharged V8 in place of a 6.0-litre turbocharged 12-cylinder unit. An alternative too, with the W12 remaining on sale for those who simply must have the biggest engined, most expensive Continental GT you can buy. The V8 has always been a fine choice though, and Bentley’s latest addition, the V8 S, only improves on that. It’s a bit of a contradiction, too, adding more power to that ‘downsized’ V8, bringing its performance within a breath of the W12 while offering far more palatable economy and emissions. Billed as a more sporting, agile machine – Bentley’s not just upped the
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V8’s output to 528hp, but also spent a great deal of time honing the dynamic set-up to create agility that belies the Continental GT’s ample bulk. The Continental GT’s name has never left any ambiguity about Bentley’s goals with it. So the Continental GT is no outright sports car, but those changes have unquestionably altered its character into a more alert and involving driving experience. There’s agility and poise in the corners where its relations merely pummel, the GT V8 S adding to the all-round ability with greater feel, a more eager turn-in and an engine that’s never, ever short of go. All this and the Continental GT’s enduring appeal as a bespoke, hand built and lovingly crafted car, which genuinely feels unique and without a rival at its price point. Others are faster and sharper, but nothing does everything with such crushing competence as the GT, and the V8 S is the very best of the breed.
Tel: +44 (0)1234 240024 Fax: +44 (0)1234 240054
In 1992 I sold my first pre-1940 Aston Martin for £42,500. If this same car was for sale today I would ask £200,000 for it. Pre-1940 Aston Martin values have increased over the past 22 years at a steady rate out performing many other investments. This has allowed the lucky owners to maintain and improve their motorcars, enjoy using them and reap the benefits of an appreciating asset should they wish to do so. Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. always has a stock of pre-1940 Aston Martins for sale, and we are able to maintain them to the highest standards, using parts manufactured by ourselves from original works engineering drawings. 1934 1.5 litre MK11 short chassis
1935 1 ½ litre MKII short chassis 2 seater
Fresh restoration to the highest standards. This MK11 drives like a new car. Steel crank and rod engine by Archers of Dunmow, chassis work by Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. Stripped in the 1950’s by the previous owner and stored for 50 years by the present retired garage owner, who rescued it and eventually undertool the restoration. Very few MK11s have been restored to this standard. 50 miles since completion. Genuinely a ‘must be seen’ car, it really is exceptional in every detail. Price £225,000
One of only 2 cars built to this speciﬁcation by the factory with 2 seat body by E. Bertelli Ltd. This car went to the USA in the 1950’s and has been re-painted and re-upholstered, but is otherwise as it left the UK. It remained in the same ownership until very recently and is therefore extremely original and correct in every respect. Ecurie Bertelli has rebuilt the engine using a new cylinder block ﬁtted with new steel crankshaft and con rods to racing speciﬁcation and it has been dyno tested to 85 bhp, so this very rare 2 seater Bertelli Aston goes as well as it looks. Rare and beautiful this 2 seater Aston would hold its own in any concours in the world. Price £275,000
Contact Andy Bell for further details of these two cars and others in our current inventory firstname.lastname@example.org
Tour Europe in Style Our driving vacations allow you to explore the best of Europe in style. Journey across the high alpine roads and mountain passes of the Alps, tour through the vineyards of Provence, Tuscany or Rioja or enjoy the sun kissed coastal roads of the Cote dâ€™Azur. Each driving adventure has a unique identity, and includes a series of pre designed scenic drives that take you on a journey of discovery, enjoying cultural and gourmet highlights and staying at the most exclusive hotels along the way.
Ferrari F12 in the Italian Lakes
For more information, visit our website or call one of our Travel Advisers
Neugutstrasse 16, Zurich, 8304, Switzerland +41 43 542 0867 www.ultimatedrives.net email@example.com
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Words – Rachel Cavers
snow QU I C K, QU I C K
If you’re really after life in the fast lane, do you fancy speeding around a frozen lake at the wheel of a Porsche? Or how about a leisurely Aston Martin tour of the Alps? Life should be full of moments like this. I’m in the middle of a lake in northern Sweden, behind the wheel of a rally-spec Porsche 911. My race driving fantasy has finally become reality. I’ve joined Below Zero’s ice driving experience, which takes place from January to March each year, close to the Swedish ski resort of Åre. Participants get to drive a special rally-equipped Porsche 911S built by preparation experts Tuthill Porsche, complete with a 3-litre, high-compression competition engine producing 300 bhp. Each car also has a close ratio competition gearbox, a full specification FIA
integral roll cage and a set of fully studded competition tyres. Better still, you’re encouraged to drive this £100k car flat out. “There’s nowhere else that you can drive competition cars as fast as you can without putting yourself in danger – the worst that can happen is you end up in a fluffy snow bank and need to be pulled out. If you don’t get stuck in a snow bank, you’re not trying hard enough,” says Below Zero owner Richard Tuthill. You’re not entirely on your own though, as there’s an instructor at your disposal – professionals who’ve competed on the World Rally Championship circuit – so it’s similar
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to being taught to drive a Formula One car by Sebastian Vettel. Martin Rowe, a former British, Chinese and production world champion, and Ryan Champion, one of Britain’s top rally drivers, are both instructors with Below Zero. Arguably the most exciting moment, though, is a ride with Richard Tuthill. The lake is situated next to a set of snow-covered forest stages that are used by teams for WRC testing and Richard, a former WRC driver himself, was keen to show us how it’s done. Hurtling along at speeds of over 100mph, the passenger ride in a 911 is nothing short of phenomenal. The G-force whams me into my seat as Richard’s foot slams up and down on the throttle while his hands spin the steering wheel in a blur. “Something didn’t feel quite right, I think we had the slightly wrong tyres for the conditions,” admitted Richard as I stepped out the car feeling a little dizzy. “So I didn’t push to the maximum, I was actually going quite a bit
slower than I normally would.” But there’s more to Below Zero ice driving than just driving Porsches quickly – although I challenge anyone to get bored of it. For lunch, you get treated to some delicious reindeer stew in the hunting lodge next to the lake. You can also go on a snowmobile safari, which is almost as much fun as the rally cars and enables you to see parts of Sweden that you wouldn’t experience otherwise. There is no shortage of pubs, restaurants and bars nearby, and there’s even the opportunity to kiss a moose in neighbouring Duved. If I’m brutally honest, I hadn’t completely mastered driving a 911 on ice by the end of the trip but the memories of those adrenalin rushes will stay with me for ever. Everyone – petrolhead or otherwise – should take a sports car for a spot of Swedish sub-zero slaloming some time. Based on two people sharing a car, Below Zero’s prices start from £1,750 per person each day. belowzeroicedriving.com
YO U'V E G OT TO P U T YO U R FO OT D OW N! Words – Scott Manson
Thrill of the pace
Ultimate Drives offers a host of driving breaks and experiences across Europe, but our trip of choice has to be the 007 Alpine Adventure. Take to the wheel of the latest Aston Martin V8 Vantage S and enjoy a three-day driving tour through the Swiss Alps and the Italian lakes, staying at top-end hotels along the way. At the five-star Widder hotel in Zurich’s Old Town, with Martini cocktail in hand, you’ll be given a dossier with your driving missions. These include a drive around some of the Alps’ most stunning mountain passes, up to the Piz Gloria ice station 3,000m up – Blofeld’s lair in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. You’ll drive over the Furka Pass, where Bond’s DB5 locked horns with Tilly Masterson’s Mustang in Goldfinger. Head south to Goldeneye’s 200m Verzasca Dam above Lake Lugano, scene of the famous bungee jump. The final mission takes you to Lake Como, where scenes from Casino Royale were filmed at the beautiful Villa Balbianello. As a superb finale, spend an evening by the lake before heading back for a sundowner and evening in Zurich. ultimatedrives.net
For those visiting Singapore, the Ultimate Drive experiences are a must-do. As the city that boasts the world’s only night-time street circuit, it’s the perfect place to put Ultimate Drive’s Ferrari F430 F1 Spider or Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder through their paces. The drive of choice has to be the Ultimate Tour package, which sees you warming up on the F1 circuit before taking to the freeway for about an hour of performance driving. Better still, if you come with a friend you can swap supercars halfway through and experience the thrill of both the Lamborghini and Ferrari. Even non-drivers can enjoy the thrill, as Ultimate Drive can supply experienced drivers who will take you on the drive of your life. The tours begins at one of two famous Singaporean landmarks – the Singapore Flyer or Marina Bay Sands – both suitably glamorous locations. When you finally, reluctantly, hand over the keys, you’ll receive an Ultimate Drive certificate, plus a recording of your trip captured by the car’s on-board dual HD cameras. Unforgettable. ultimatedrive.com
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COMBINING PROFESSIONAL STUDIO PERFORMANCE
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Words – Alex Pell
s u p er to u g h
If you’re after resilience as well as sharp stylishness in a camera, look no further than these five fine specimens
These days, folks tend to switch cameras as the specs improve. However, the Leica M9-P is a different proposition. This is the digital version of a classic rangefinder camera which will appeal to snappers who love classic photography without bells and whistles – including video. While not a rugged camera per se, this bad boy can take some serious tough love and the ‘P’ variant denotes a hardy sapphire-crystal coating on the LCD. Given the price, it’s a shame this screen isn’t higher resolution but that’s being picky. Alternatively, consider the strictly limited-edition M9 Titanium, designed by Walter de’Silva, chief designer of Volkswagen Group. It’s hewn from solid titanium and yours for a cool £19,800 if you can actually find one. £3,600, en.leica-camera.com
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The Nikon 1 J3 is a hugely popular compact system camera and for good reason. This new version claims to be waterproof down to 15m and able to survive a drop of up to two meters or to shoot in -10º C. This model is reminiscent of a classic Nikonos waterproof camera and while not quite as hardy, it is a highly versatile little beast that performs well. Lens choices are limited and although it can be used with non-toughened Nikon 1 lenses, these don’t offer the same rugged allure. If you can live with its limited manual controls, this is an excellent option for adventurous types seeking a small but capable ally. £749, nikon.co.uk
Panasonic Lumix FT5
This Panasonic is a classic compact camera with a twist. It can cope with everything from underwater photography through to a spot of serious manhandling. The 4.6x optical zoom and built-in wireless photo-sharing features help to make it an even more practical option. Panasonic has been doing this for a while – and it shows. The FT5 is clad in metal and rubber which enables it to shrug off abuse. Images are good, albeit obviously not directly comparable to the other much pricier models also shown here. Nonetheless, if you want a cheap and simple tool to capture the joys of your outdoorsy existence, this is the one. £349, panasonic.co.uk
In recent years, so-called compact system cameras have proven hugely popular as they provide the flexibility of swappable lenses with much of the quality of a proper SLR model. This is the top of the Olympus range and priced to match. That said, you get a lot for your loot. The OMD-EM1 is ‘splash-proof ’, so it’s not suited to swimming, but it can handle dust and seriously low temperatures as well as being tough as boots. Well, almost. It provides a slew of manual buttons (some might say too many). Overall, though, it delivers the goods and deserves a spot on the shortlist of anyone seeking a seriously tasty, carry-all-day camera. £1,499, olympus.co.uk
Hasselblad is renowned for seriously hardy ‘medium-format’ cameras, traditionally employed for portraits. The HV is an unusual beast, though, in that this is actually a Sony SLT-A99 that has been re-skinned by Hasselblad to make it super tough. This includes titanium controls and a resin coating, known as PVD, said to be almost as resilient as diamond. The full-frame Sony SLR at the heart of this camera is superb, as is the Carl Zeiss lens that it comes supplied with. Whether it’s worth paying more than twice the price of the underlying Sony model depends on how much you covet that classic Hasselblad build and its famous badge. £7,500, hasselblad-hv.com
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Into the trees and a little above. Dinner in the corner seat, le Chef knows how. In the family for years and years. Lumber has settled down. Private spa and a cosy chalet. Where the slope ends, you are home. Roomservice knocks with a picnic box. Terrine with brioche and local wine. A last glance of red covers the Matterhorn. www.cervo.ch
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Words – Lydia Bell
ON THE WATERFRONT: Havana’s coastal ‘strip’ is a playground to locals and tourists alike
The Cuban capital is shaking off its recent past as a new generation embraces a more entrepreneurial future The clichés of brand Cuba are known to every traveller: decaying colonial splendour, gasping vintage máquinas, peeling revolutionary slogans, outsized cigars, sweet rum, sands the colour of coconut flesh, a salsa soundtrack and a sense of time warp. But recent visitors will have noted that the winds of change are starting to break up the timelessness. While the state has been avoiding full-blown capitalism, Cubans may now buy homes and cars, and small businesses have boomed. Although Fidel Castro dismissed golf as a bourgeois invention, in 2013 his brother and current leader Raúl green-lit the $350m Carbonera Club Oceanfront Resort near Varadero, to be developed by Esencia Hotels and Resorts, launching in the last quarter of this year, as well as the upgrading of Cuba’s airports (with
a Brazilian development bank). The Carbonera Club will include residential properties that will be made available for purchase by foreigners for the first time since 1959. Planned facilities include a Jacklin Design golf course and Academy of Golf, the GHM Hotel & Spa, Conran-designed villas, a luxurious mall and a yacht club with marina. On a micro level, the blossoming of the smallbusiness sector means tourists are enjoying better places to stay, eat and drink. Now Cubans can rent out entire properties, instead of a few rooms. A clutch of entrepreneurs with taste and cash have unveiled new spaces, such as a classic, newly restored home I saw in swanky Miramar, full of knockout Cuban art, vintage 1950s furniture and a lush garden. The owner,
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FAST FOOD: Paladares offering a wife range of different foods are opening at a prodigious rate
Art-Deco gems and colonial homes are being given a 21stcentury updating Ydalgo Martinez, was behind Artedel Penthouse in Vedado and is a pioneer in upmarket tourist accommodation. These days, he is not alone. On my last visit I saw a suite in the old town, a vintage beach house, an Art-Deco gem in downtown Central Havana and a colonial home opening onto a courtyard in Habana Vieja – all given a 21st-century updating. Paladares (private restaurants) are opening so fast, I cannot keep up. At the top end, two of the best remain – Le Chansonnier (Calle J #257, between Calles 13 and 15, Vedado, +537 832 1576) and Starbien (Calle 29 #205 between B and C; +537 830 07 11) – which fuse Cuban and international classics and adopt daily-changing
menus to respond to the challenges of supply on an island hit by a trade embargo and internal distribution issues. But there’s an army of new contenders. A British restaurateur of Indian descent has opened Bollywood (Between 24 and La Torre, Nuevo Vedado, +53 7 8831216), the first Indian restaurant in Havana; and pretty Buena Vida (Calle 46 #917 between 11 and 9na, Playa, +537 202 5816), which offers vegetarian food in a bohemian setting (though veggies may be horrified that meat is also on the menu). Trendy bars are also on the rise. El Madrigal (Calle 17 #302 between 2 and 4, Vedado) is a bohemian haunt owned by a cinematographer that has been festooned with props and posters;
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INTO THE BLUE: Havanaâ€™s idyllic, white-sanded beaches are greeting a new wave of visitors to the island
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Hairdressers, spas, beauty parlours and nail bars are sprouting everywhere
BACK IN BUSINESS: Sloppy Joe’s bar has reopened after 48 years, thanks to state backing
El Chanchulleros (Teniente Rey #457 between Bernaza and El Cristo, Habana Vieja), a cool tapas bar with a Spanish vibe; and O’Reilly 304 (O’Reilly #304 between Habana and Aguiar, Habana Vieja, +535 264 4725), a small, newlyminted bar touting gin cocktails. The state has refurbished Sloppy Joe’s (Zulueta #252 between Animas and Virtudes, Habana Vieja, +5378667157), a magnificent bar popular during Prohibition, after 48 years of dereliction. On the wellbeing scene, spas, hairdressers, beauty parlours and nail bars are sprouting everywhere. At O2 (Calle 26 #5 corner of Calle 26B, Nuevo Vedado, +53 7 8831663), I enjoyed
a massage in a room next to a spinning class, while downstairs rows of women waited for their foils to set. The retail scene is the last piece of the pie, but changes are happening. A handful of upmarket boutiques have opened: the most impressive of which is at the Milano Club Lounge (Calle 3ra #2404 between 24 and 26, Miramar, +537 203 4641; www.milanoloungeclub.com), a restaurant in a minimalist South Beach-style mansion in Miramar. In Havana Vieja, the Unescoprotected historic heart, the government has handed out small leases piecemeal to private retailers. Small boutiques such as Piscolabis
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STAR BARS: O’Reilly is one of the many bars that is adding to Havana’s already recognisable street scenes
(Calle San Ignacio #75; +537 23 14017), which sells high-class artisanal wares, are spearheading confidence. If you fancy a horological outing, the elegant Cuervos Y Sobrinos store (Oficios, corner of Muralla, +537 8649515), has a gentlemen’s-club air. Their handsome Belle Epoque and Art Nouveau-inspired Swiss-made timepieces are as nostalgic as the vintage cars that rumble down these streets. The company was established in Havana in 1882 and has been reincarnated. There’s a cosy bar for coffees and stiff drinks, and you can also buy cigars.
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The watch boxes double as humidors. If you need help navigating this maze of ‘new’ Havana, it can come via a new concierge service launching in March (cubaconcierge.com). You’ll be matched with a personal concierge on speed dial, a mobile phone, and you won’t have to worry about table bookings, club entry, private parties and hook-ups; from yoga and salsa teachers to architecture and history guides. While traditionalists may balk at the changes this city is undergoing, it’s clear that the new Havana is more thrilling than ever. There has never been a better time to enjoy the jewel in Cuba’s crown. Esencia Experiences (01481 714898; www. esenciaexperiences.com) offers tailor-made journeys in Cuba showcasing restaurants, bars, shopping, culture and private accommodation. Virgin Atlantic fly twice weekly to Havana from London Gatwick. Prices start from £362 plus £372 tax. For more information please visit www. virgin-atlantic.com or call 0844 209 7777.
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Kings Avenue Sàrl 14, Rue de Rhône, CH-1204 Genève Switzerland +41 22 819 94 07 www.kingsavenue.com email@example.com
Silence is golden The original heartthrob, Italian actor Rudolph Valentino dominated the 1920s as the decade’s biggest movie star. Valentino – or the ‘Latin Lover’, as he was better known – starred in silent films such as The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, The Sheik and The Eagle. Pictured here in full garb on the set of his final film, The Son of the Sheik in 1926, Valentino exasperated costume designers by refusing to take off his Cartier Tank watch. Indeed, it was this sense of style and smouldering presence that won him his hordes of fans. They were devastated when he died a few months later aged 31, guaranteeing his place in history and propelling him to true icon status.
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Credit: © United Artists Associated/Sunset Boulevard
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CHAPTER ONE TONNEAU TRANSPARENCE TITANIUM (C1-3T) Limited Edition of 11 pieces
March 27 - Avril 2, 2014 at Baselworld Congress Center - Rio Room Rue Daniel Jeanrichard 18, CP 926, CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds +41 79 312 19 26 - www.maitresdutemps.com