UNHIDDEN

UNHIDDEN

Photography by Kevin Sinclair

I have created this magazine in the aim of educating and creating awareness surrounding disabilties in the fashion industry.

Let’s explore how brands adapt to disabilities within the fashion industry. We are at a point where mental health and body positivity is talked about a lot in the media so it’s about time inclusivity is talked about too.

“Disabled people contribute the largest minority group in the world yet are the most underserved and underrepresented (...) there is so much misconception and miseducation around disabled people, a lot of that is down to the way we have wrongly been perceived in the media”Cat Keely.

From stores without wheelchair access to limited options on e-commerce platforms, shopping for clothes can be particular challenging for anyone whose body falls outside the ‘ablest straightsized norm.’ How do brands respond to this?

WORKED SO HARD TO BE MYSELF”

“we raise awareness”

“THERE ARE NO RULES OR LIMITS, JUST ENDLESS WAYS TO BE YOU”

“it’s for everyone”

“EVERYONES OPPORTUNITY”

“embrace people as individuals”

“NOTHING ABOUT US WITHOUT US”

“is this accessible?”

“I’m so grateful”

“THERE IS ABILITY IN EVERY DISABILITY”

“don’t judge a disability by its visability”

“Anything’s possible”

“WE ARE CAPABLE” “I want people to look at people with disabilities and not think anything of it” “BEYOURSELF”

RUNWAY

Brand Identity, Aesthetic, Creative Vision, and Atmosphere. Amazing. Your’re sat on the front row anticipating the big trends and styles. Big pointers like sustainability and how we need to address climate change issues. And how there is a greater push for inclusivity and diversity on and off the runways. Introducing new up-comers to the Fashion Week schedule, and The Black in Fashion Council securing the advancement of young black designers. Everyone is involved you think, but are all really welcome?

Despite fashion’s ongoing attempt for inclusion in all aspects, our understanding and awareness seems to be quite limited. Race, Gender, Age, Sexuality, Size and Religion is applied- yes, we see this, sometimes. We very rarely see all these trends and styles accessible to people when referring to different needs and abilities. We very rarely see campaigns and images in the media featuring a model in a wheelchair, but what about how a designer’s collection would appeal to someone with limited use of their arms; or how a new trouser would work for someone with a prosthetic? We never see this. Do brands really have this as a forefront thought within, if so, why is the media not displaying it?

It goes beyond adaptive clothing- how do the brands and companies respond to this to ensure all is considered? From the accessible changing rooms backstage, to how producers consider the sensitivities of epileptic and visually impaired people when designing their lighting?

It is a constant cycle- we very rarely see disabled people on runways or in the media. Perhaps this is why we don’t think about how the shows or the designer’s col lections will relate to them. It is like one certain image and perception of ‘models’ or ‘runway fashion’ has been created for everyone to follow/believe in; white, size 0 models, for example. And anything deemed out of this description is seen as ‘different.’ This is why the perception and lack of representation needs to change. “Fashion is giving people a warped view of what the world looks like (...) fashion and beauty and the runway create culture, and we need to create a culture that’s truly inclusive” says Christina Mallon, the chief brand officer at Open Style Lab.

LAUREN WASSER

Lauren Wasser in Luis Vuitton’s 2023 cruise show

Activist

and model Lauren Wasser was rushed to hospital due to Toxic Shock Syndrome (TSS). 24 years of age when her world changed overnight. TSS is a rare condition caused by excess staphylococcus aureus bacteria in the body caused by tampon use. This devastation almost cost Lauren’s life, however she lost both legs as a result. “In my mind it was over. I really believed I would never be accepted by the modeling world or by anyone.”

“I had my first modelling job at 2 months old, alongside my mother (Pamela Cook) in Italian Vogue, but as I grew older, I found a passion for sport too, specifically basketball and athletics. Everything I ever wanted I was always told was at my fingertips.’ Lauren Wasser turned down a basketball scholarship to a top university for sporting talent, to focus on her own rising career in fashion. However, her life took an unpredictable turn on October 12. She was found unresponsive at her home.

‘

‘Three months later I left hospital in a wheelchair, still shell shocked trying to come to terms with the new reality of my life. I just kept wondering why and how this happened. I didn’t think I would ever be wanted or loved again; and I didn’t think the fashion world would want me again.’

Eight months into using a wheelchair Lauren felt like she lost all her independence, she couldn’t go to the bathroom properly, she couldn’t go outside to play basketball, or do anything for herself pretty much. ‘My whole identity, the person I knew was gone.’

While doctors initially saved her left leg, 6 years later, Lauren struggled so much with pain. She knew she had no choice but to get it amputated too.

“I’ve worked so hard to be myself and never take ‘no’ for an answer”

Rushed to hospital, Lauren’s internal organs including her kidneys were failing. She had suffered from 2 heart attacks, and once diagnosed with Toxic Shock Syndrome, was then given a one percent chance of survival. This infection caused her legs to go gangrenous and she was put into an induced coma. Overhearing the conversation of a nurse ‘I have a young 24-year-old female needing a right leg amputation below the knee’ she knew it was about her- but she couldn’t believe it. She didn’t want to believe it. Doctors recommended amputating both legs however, her left leg had 50% chance to be saved- and Lauren decided to take this risk.

‘I just wasn’t living’ she said, ‘I’m an athlete, I want to be a mum and I just want to be able to be free, and to be able to sit down and not have excruciating pain. I made that decision for the rest of my life that I know I deserve”

‘I had to force myself to find the beauty that isn’t just found physically but is what affects others around us. After a long time, I eventually came to understand that prosthetics were my route to a more independent life and freedom for me. The stiff, medical looking limbs were just not me though. I struggled to see how I would make them me and create something with my identity. I have always loved gold, so I made my legs a jewelry piece- something that will be fascinating to look at every time. Something almost close to art.’

...THE GIRL WITH THE GOLDEN LEGS

Since acquiring her name in the industry as ‘the girl with the golden legs’ Lauren continues to make her mark in the industry by being part of campaigns such as Furla, Lacoste and walking for Louis Vuitton. “I can wear anything; I am like anyone else(..) everyone should be accepted for who they are and what they look like.” “I have witnessed the industry slowly embrace inclusivity- but I have had to fight for my place- they are making no mistakes! There was no blueprint of a model like me and it is rare to see someone like me down the runway. I’m lucky- I must create my own name, and my own avenue of existence. We’re not fully there, but we are making moves, and I think that is the important part”

‘Walking for Luis Vuitton I feel like I had come full circle. It was a ‘we did it’ moment. You never see someone like me highlighted by such as powerful fashion house.”

This is what we need more of. Strutting down the runway in her golden prosthetic legs, Wasser is bringing an unprecedented level of awareness and visibility for different abled people. That could be a little girl’s dream. A little girl who has lost her leg looking up to Wasser on the runway, wishing she could be her one day. It’s not just the physical, it is the mental courage too-someone is going through a hard time and seeing Wasser determined to not let this get her down or get in her way.

David Gargiulo (Vestal) - “As a fashion model, having both of your legs amputated and embracing your new reality, have you ever felt discriminated against in the fashion industry? If so, how do you deal with it? “

Lauren - “I know for a fact that if I had lost my legs 10 years ago, I probably wouldn’t have been looked at in the fashion industry. However, we are in an exciting time for diversity and changing the idea of beauty, celebrating everyone for who they are. Personally, I know that I have created a lane in modelling that never existed. No blueprint. I leave the house everyday knowing that when people see me, stare and are in awe of me it’s because they have never seen someone like myself. The way I dress, the way I walk, run - how fluid I am and how “normal” I live my life. They see me in ads and then in person and trip out. I feel like a superhero, and I hope that I’m inspiring people to truly be who they are. To live their best lives no matter what and never give up on their dreams.”

David Gargiulo-Your gold legs are amazing and you show them off so well! What do they mean to you?

Lauren- “I’m so grateful for technology; living in a day and age where I am able to live my life the way that I want is an absolute luxury. My relationship with my legs has obviously evolved. Becoming one and knowing that without accepting and figuring it out, I wouldn’t be able to be who I am right now. It was so surreal and unfathomable that I actually had to cut off my legs to gain a new set. It was the only chance to have freedom and normalcy again. I’ve been able to use it as my strength. I wanted to be the first and have that be my statement piece. It’s a blessing, I’m so proud to be the girl with the golden legs!”

JILLIAN MERCADO

Growing up, Mercado fell in love with all things fashion. However, the industry in its eurocentric and ableist beauty standards made her believe she couldn’t see herself represented.

In her early teens Mercado was diagnosed with muscular dystrophy. Muscular dystrophy causes progressive weakness and loss of muscle mass. Abnormal genes interfere with the production of proteins needed to form healthy muscle.

She decided to address this inequality by entering the fashion industry herself- she studied a degree in marketing in the aim of ‘learning the politics behind fashion so I could hire people who looked like me.’

Actress, model and advocate for greater representation in the fashion and entertainment industries, Jillian has become a prominent figure in the fashion world. She wants to redefine the traditional norms in the fashion industry and eradicate the enduring stigma they face.

Mercado’s first modelling appearance was a campaign for denim brand Diesel. Following this, she signed up for a modelling agency and appeared in campaigns/billboards in Times Square for brands such as Olay, Nordstrom and Target. In 2018 she become the first disabled cover star for Teen Vogue, and modelled merchandise for Beyonce’s Formation world tour.

What wasn’t initially in Mercado’s plan, she joined the cast of “The L word” becoming one of the very few actors with a visible disability to get a role on mainstream television.

Interview with Allure:

What could’ve been better understood when it comes to ensuring an accessible work environemnt on TV and film sets?

“I feel that it’s unacceptable to hire someone who has a physical disability and not make sure the person feels safe or that things are accessible in every single corner. Even if I’m not meant to be in a scene, I want the set ready to go so that I can jump in at any point if the script changes without needing to go through hoops for accessibility. That’s something that I spoke about when attending shows at New York Fashion Week. Some venues would require one week’s prior notice to accommodate a wheelchair. But I should be able to show up two seconds before an event starts and it should be accessible, regardless. I was lucky to work on the set of The L Word: Generation Q because they were very attentive to my needs, building me ramps on the spot if needed, so I could do my job and deliver what I needed to.”

But I think there are a lot of things that people still have a hard time understanding as far as accessibility goes on set and that creates moments where it can feel challenging to speak up where you might be afraid of feeling like a burden or that there could be a chance of losing a job as a result of speaking up.”

How do you think that having disabled talent can impact visibility for viewers?

“I see it in so many ways. From a business standpoint, you’re now targeting an entire community you’ve never targeted. More viewership equals more money for you. And, at the end of the day, many things are powered by financial incentives. From a psychological standpoint, not having representation onscreen affected me growing up. Even when it came to disabled characters, those roles were being played by non-disabled actors. I made excuses for it for a long time, telling myself that no disabled actors must’ve wanted the part. Still, eventually, I realized that opportunities weren’t being given to my community. That was heartbreaking and took a toll on my emotional state because I soon felt nobody considered us worthy enough to have these roles. It didn’t help my self-esteem or encourage me to follow my dreams. That’s why it’s super-important to have representation onscreen. It’ll help an entire generation of people just be who they are. “

Unfortunately, disabled people are frequently given backhanded compliments like, “You’re still beautiful” or “You’re an inspiration for going to work.” How do you handle that, especially in your line of work?

“I remember being so upset whenever I was given a backhanded compliment. Then I turned that anger into sarcasm. My favorite instance was when I was in a bar in New York. I was waiting for a friend and a guy came up to me and said, “Oh wow! You came to this bar.” [The implication: Even though I was in a wheelchair.] I was so thrown by that comment but could tell that with all his heart he believed that was a compliment. I just replied, ‘No way! You’re in this bar as well.’ I think we just need to be treating humans like humans. I never understood why it was such a big deal. We all deserve to be seen. It shouldn’t be such a hoopla.”

What are your thoughts on the state of inclusivity?

“ I feel like one side of me is very happy because I’m conscious of how non-inclusive beauty and fashion once were. So, compared to where things once were, it has definitely improved. The fact that I see commercials, TV spots, movies, etc, presenting with more diversity without necessarily spotlighting it but more so just working it in, is really heartwarming to see. On the other hand, I still do see it incorporated in a way that doesn’t integrate disability without sending a message that says “Look, here’s someone in a wheelchair.” With this, we still have a long way to go so that it’s no longer “clickbait,” or for it not to be pointed out as something “special.”

Have you tried any brands or products geared specifically toward accessibility?

“I can think of two brands that aim to design with a more universal approach. I’ve tried Guide Beauty and I loved the concept. It was beautiful and I’m excited to see where they take it. I’d still have a few notes to give, but it’s a start and makes me look forward to seeing other brands start to design more intentionally.

I was pleasantly surprised to discover that Selena Gomez’s line, Rare Beauty, is also very concerned with product accessibility, specifically regarding their Soft Pinch Liquid Blush. It comes with an easy-twist opener. This is particularly great for me because I suck at opening things; anything I need to grip, and turn is a challenge. But the little hoop on this blush is extremely easy for me to grab hold of and turn and requires almost no force for me to do it. I later learned through TikTok that it was designed with accessibility in mind. I find that very beautiful.”

Ifeellikethemodelingindustryhasbeen stuckonthisonenotionofperfection. Butweareallhuman,everyonehasflaws andit’srefreshingwhenyoucanrelateto someoneinanad,”Mercadosaid.“Sometimestheseadvertisingandcampaignsfeel sodistantbecauseyoudon’tlooklikethe modelsandtheyfeelfaraway,it’safantasy soyoudon’tknowwhyyou’devenbuythe clothes.”

“Whenwetalkedaboutthecampaignat Diesel,werealizedthatit’smorethana campaign,it’smovingtheindustryforward andchangingtheworld,”Mercadosaid. “Presentingchange-tomodelingissomethingthatpeopleusedtobeafraidtodo anditwasarisk.”

FAITH GUILBAULT

Meet Faith,

Faith Guilbault was born with Cerebal Palsy, Epilepsy and Cortical vision impairment, she relies on her wheelchair and leg braces to help assist her mobility day to day. She suffers from frequent seizures, however, does not let this get in the way of her determination to be as independent as possible!

Faith works with the ‘Runway of Dreams’ organisation that works towards inclusivity and acceptance. Faith is actively involved within the research, and designers such as Tommy Hilfiger and Kohls- recognising adaptative wear needs to be created to allow people with disabilities to be able to dress themselves independently.

At just age 15, Faith walked Kohl’s New York Fashion Show, modelling their adaptive clothing line. Being no novice, Faith also walked in Tommy Hilfiger’s show, also showcasing their adaptive collection. Faith was keen to show that despite living with multiple disabilities, she can live like everyone else. “What I want most is for people to see what we have in common, not different, and see what I am able to do, not what I am not able to do!”

“Adaptive clothing increases confidence- special snaps, and magnets, there’s all kinds to help you get your pants on and off- and your skirt and stuff!” Enhancing autonomy, adaptive clothing allows people with disabilities to join in on trends, and dress like their friends.

RUNWAY OF DREAMS

Runway of dreams empowers people with disabilities to have confidence within their self-expression through fashion and beauty inclusion.

‘We raise awareness, educate consumers, and advocate for industry change. We develop the next generation of design innovates and provide access to fashionable, adaptive apparel.’

“WE ARE NOT JUST ELICITING CHANGE; WE ARE LEADING A FASHION REVOLUTION”

Runway of dreams holds adaptive fashion shows around the world to show that disabilities in the industry should be seen in the public eye. Events are held to promote their mission to young professionals and collaborate with sponsors and partners to amplify their commitment to disability and inclusion.

Their main campaign ‘It’s time to adapt’ is the first ever campaign to show people with disabilities and adaptive clothing- clothing and footwear from brands such as Adidas, Tommy Hilfiger and Target. The foundation is grateful for the presenting sponsor of Sephora and whilst shot in Miami with talented models such as Shaquem Griffen (footballer), Alvaro Alcocer (musician) and golfer Daniel Steele.

ELLIE GOLDSTEIN

Ellie Goldstein is an English model diagnosed at birth with Down’s Syndrome. Despite living with Down’s Syndrome her whole life, Ellie never lets her condition get in the way of her life.

At age 15 Ellie signed with Zebedee management, which is an organisation dedicated to increasing the representation of models with disabilities and alternative appearances. Ellie has experienced great success working for brands such as Nike, Gucci and Vodafone.

Ellie told Vogue “I enjoy being a role model. It shows that if you follow your hopes and dreams you can achieve anything(..) The best part of modelling is showing myself off to everyone- I love to be in front of the camera and showing everyone how professional I am.”

Ellie, 18 years old, was chosen to be the face of Gucci’s colour cosmetics campaign. “I was very overwhelmed with joy (..) I couldn’t believe they chose me!”

Ellie’s image posted on Instagram got the most likes Gucci’s posts had ever got. Ellie was selected for this beauty campaign showcasing the new Gucci L’Obscur mascara featured in an editorial shoot for Gucci Beauty and Vogue Italia.

Can you tell us a bit about your experience with Down’s Syndrome and entering the industry?

“I haven’t had any bad experiences having Down’s syndrome. I think it’s because of my personality. The only challenge I have faced was maybe people signing to me and talking to my mum instead of meuntil realising that I can communicate and that I am just like them, maybe just slower at learning some things.”

What advice would you give to those who don’t feel confident in themselves?

“Be yourself and don’t worry about what other people think of you.”

How did you overcome that?

“By being myself. Once people realise I can talk and have a great character, they are different towards me, and they smile. There needs to be more positivity out there, and people should give us a chance and not be so ignorant.”

JACK EYERS

Jack eyers is a British Canoeing Paracanoe athlete. He was born with a condition called Proximal Femoral Focal deficiency. PFFD is a complex birth defect when the upper part of the femur bone is either malformed or missing, often causing one leg to be shorter than the other. “I walked around with a straight leg- basically I didn’t have a knee joint.” When Jack was just 16, he made the decision to get his leg amputated. “It held me back everywhere, it was completely my choice and since then, everything has gone uphill- I feel free, I feel light!”

Since entering the fashion industry, paracanoe athlete Jack is also a personal trainer and has modelled for the front cover of Men’s Health, and walked for shows in New York and LA, hoping to inspire young people with a disability. Campaigning for ‘models of diversity’ Jack has turned his life around, having involved himself in numerous events to be a great ambassador for people with disabilities who would like to break the fashion industry.

Eyers began his paracanoeing career in 2015, quickly making a name for himself competing in championships in the KL13 category (this classification is for athletes with an upper limb impairment). He mde his first appearance in the public eye in 2012 for the Paralympic opening ceremony.

“I want people to look at people with disabilities and not think anything of it”

Being a spokesman for disability representation in sports, he has used his platform to show what people with disabilities are capable of and able to achieve.

Being the face of Men’s Health, he has also talked about the importance and benefits of participating in sport not only physically but mentally and emotionally also. Helping to inspire others to pursue their athletic dreams, it shows his strength and determination to not give up no matter what challenges he faces. His mission is to challenge the perception of disability and wants others to be as successful as him whether it be in the fashion or sporting industry.

“When I was brought up there wasn’t any role models at all; despite having athletes and parathletes to look up to; they’re almost looked at as ‘superhuman.”

For the future of the fashion industry Jack believes there should be more shop windows and brands representing different abilities- “whether it be aftershave, or underwear, literally anything.” We start to see brands introducing adaptive clothing, which is a good start however, there needs to be a broader range- not just clothing; accessories and skin care, makeup and lingerie as these are something most use/ have in their-dayto day routines.

JULIA CARLILE

Julia Carlile is a dancer from Liverpool. She has suffered from scoliosis most of her life up until undergoing major surgery to fuse her spine. Scoliosis is a curvature of the spine often diagnosed in adolescents. Julia was diagnosed with it at age 6!

Symptoms of scoliosis include- top of shoulders appear uneven, one shoulder blade (in the upper back) is more prominent or visible than the other, one hip appears higher than the other. And one side of the rib cage is higher than the other when bending forward. In severe cases of scoliosis, it can affect people living their daily lives. It can endure complications such as decreased range of movement, chronic pain and respiratory issues. In Julia’s case it affected her very much mentally and physically.

Julia appeared on Britain’s Got Talent with her dance group in 2017 and in 2019 for champions finalist show. Following their dance to “Fight song’ by Rachel Platten, it portrayed Julia’s real-life struggle with the brutal physical condition of scoliosis. Knowing this could have been the last time she was able to dance with her best friends; Merseygirls’- she had since perused acting to still pursue her creative career. This was after realising she may not continue to dance and exert herself after her scoliosis curvature grew despite having experimental, double Anterior Scoliosis Correction (ASC) surgeries in New Jersey.

I met up with Julia recently to find out more about her condition and how she has adapted to life with it. I thought it would be interesting given she is a dancer to find out if and how her experience in the sport/dancing industry differed due to her condition.

At what age were you diagnosed with scoliosis?

‘I was diagnosed with scoliosis at age 6.’

How did scoliosis affect your training/ dance career? - Did it limit you in other aspects of your life?

‘Scoliosis affected my dance career as I’ve had 4 surgeries limiting my flexibility and I had to wear a back brace that I could not dance in, meaning I wasn’t able to dance as often as I’d like to. It also limited what clothes I could wear due to my torso being so squashed.’

Living with scoliosis, how did it make you feel compared to your other dancing friends/in general?

‘I compared myself daily to my dance friends especially my body as I had a large rib hump. I wished I could have had the typical dancer’s body.’

Did you find it particularly hard when picking out dance outfits?

‘Picking out dance outfits was the hardest. I hated the way I looked in everything and would often not take my hoodie off in class meaning I would overheat.’

Have you come across other people with a similar condition to you?

‘I have come across so many people with the same conditions as me who reach out to me, which is so heartwarming as it makes me realise I am not alone when I have felt like it so many times.’

Did you have to get your clothes/dance outfits altered to fit your body shape?

- How did this make you feel?

‘My dance teachers would get me tailored leotards that would fit my body and would alter costumes for me to make me feel more comfortable. I really appreciated this, but it also reminded me that I was not normal and made me long for a body like everyone else.’

In your experience, what would you say needs to be improved in terms of making certain allowances; for example, following certain trends/ what’s displayed in the media?

‘I think people need to stop making people think they’re only going to be accepted if they have the right clothes or most trend outfits as this causes pressure for people who may not feel comfortable in them. I had to buy boy T-shirts to cover my brace as they were high necked, and people would pick on me because of this in school.’

When dancing/involved in the media, did people treat you differently because of your condition ?(in the aspect of dance tutors/backstage/judges etc...)

‘People would often not put me in dance sections as they thought a certain move would hurt my back, but it wouldn’t! I was also told I was going to have the lead in a dance but wasn’t anymore as I would have to get lifted which may have hurt my back –again- this wouldn’t have hurt! Other than that, I don’t feel like people treated me that differently.’

Are there any brands accommodating your physical requirements?

‘There were no brands that accommodated my physical needs.’

What feedback/recommendations would you give to brands when considering adaptive clothing?

‘I would like brands to consider people who don’t have the normal body proportions as everyone else as this would have helped me a lot. And, to make dance wear that doesn’t have to be skintight- fashionable but still baggy.’

What surgery/treatment did you have to undergo?

I have had 3 different back braces from ages 11-16 but none worked. You could see them all under my clothes and they were extremely uncomfortable. I then had 2 VBT (vertebral body tethering) surgeries in the USA which held my curve for 2 years. But then I developed kyphosis (an exaggerated forward rounding of the upper back) and had 2 spinal fusion surgeries in 2021.

Since surgery have you noticed a significant change to your body shape/type?

- How have you had to adapt when wearing/buying clothes?

‘Since the fusion surgeries, my body has changed a lot. My torso grew 5 inches, and my spine is now pretty much straight- I have no rib hump and my torso is a complete normal size. I feel great and so lucky to finally have my dream body. I have definitely spent A LOT more money on new clothes since my surgery as it’s the first time I’ve ever been able to wear anything I want; and the first time I’ve felt comfortable in my appearance. So, I love showing it off and feeling good like I never used to be able to. I wear stuff now that shows off my body, and my scar!’

Are you able to continue your dance training/career?

Unfortunately, I’m not able to carry on my dance career as the fusion has limited my flexibility and what I can do, a lot. I still train and go to classes for fun but often, I have adapt to certain moves as my body doesn’t let me move/bend in that way.

KELLY KNOX

Kelly Knox is a British fashion model who is voted one of the most influential disabled people in the UK.

Kelly’s story…

Kelly Knox was born without her left forearm and believes she doesn’t need it- or her prosthetic. She wants disabled people to not feel ashamed or guilty within their bodies. Kelly never considered herself as disabled until she got into modelling. “Why do I need this arm? And I realised, “Oh! I know. It’s so I don’t look different and I blend in with society.”

‘When I was younger, I had loads of friends. I’ve always had that confidence and self-belief and we didn’t make a big thing of it. But I’m aware I didn’t grow up with social media. I didn’t have that added pressure.

If I was a teenager or a young person growing up with a disability, I would feel the pressure so much more because everything is about perfection in the media.”

In 2017 she became one of the first models with a disability in London Fashion Week. Walking the runway for Teatum Jones made Kelly feel ‘strong, creative and confident.’ Not wanting to use her prosthetic because having one, she believes it is to be able to look ‘normal’ or how she should look or how others expect everyone else to look.

“I didn’t see anyone like me in magazines, advertising campaigns or gracing the catwalk. I could’ve easily given up, but I don’t break that easily.” Kelly told BBC.

Kelly wanted to change the way society perceived disability and beauty to make a difference in the world.

Kelly’s interview with fashion blogger Clara Holmes who suffers with Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome, a form of Hypermobility Syndrome, which is an inherited connective tissue disorder; they discuss and relate to each others experiences.

Clara explains in her blog the experiences and feelings she goes through when shopping-she challenges the idea that disabled people can’t be stylish.

“It’s when you start going off the main track, the little boutique-y places down the side streets, that there’s a problem: They have a step; there’s no ramp, the shop is too narrow.”

“I don’t want people lifting up my wheelchair. I don’t want a standing ovation. I just want to get in-if I face that once, I’m not going to do it again.”

A recent study by the Extra Costs Commission has found that 75% of disabled customers have left a shop because of poor service or access, and that British companies risk losing £420m a week in sales.

Clara Holmes- ‘Rolling Funky’ blog

“Attitudes disable me. The lack of opportunities disables me. Not my arm. My arm is amazing!”

Kelly walking for Teatum Jones Autumn/Winter 2018 London Fashion Week

PRODUCTS FOR BEAUTY LOVERS

Kohl’s Kreatives

£44.99

These brushes are flexible to provide you with a comfortable application and use. Having an easy grip and are flat bottomed to stand up by themselves.

Tiy

£12

Tiy has created the first customizable hair tie, suited for whatever length, size or tension you need it. It can come in a portable holder, and each one makes up to six Tiys. You pull out your desired length and squeeze the container to cut the Tiy, and you then follow their innovative technique to create the hair tie. It would be useful to have someone assist in assembling all of them at once, and then your set with an assortment of ties that give you the freedom to independently tie your hair.

Drunk elephant C-Tango Multivitamin Eye Cream

£56 -Look Fantastic

C-Tango comes in a straight-edged container that makes it easier to hold on to. The capfree packaging. You just twist the top with one hand and a hidden pump emerges. This allows you to apply the product directly

£35.00

It can be a struggle opening eye shadow palettes and even keeping them open. This palette is explicitly designed with an extended “lip” all the way around the packaging making it easier to pop open without a struggle. It lays flat on the counter without the lid closing itself or getting in the way, so your one hand can focus solely on applying your best look.

WHO CAN ONLY USE ONE HAND:

The Beachwaver

£116

It’s designed perfectly for one-hand use as the barrel rotates automatically; you use the built-in clip to secure a strand of hair and press a button while the curler does the rest. (There’s no manual twisting of your hair around the barrel)

Olive and June The Poppy

Nail Varnish

£15

The Poppy is large, round, and flat, which makes it the perfect shape and size for holding the brush securely with your knees, feet, teeth, etc., and it’s made of non-slip silicone to further ensure a good grip.

Luna play plus 2 facial cleansing brush

£48.99 Amazon

Facial cleansing brushes can be difficult as applying cleanser to a device you can’t stabilize with another hand can prove to be hard. The Luna Play Plus 2 is ideal for this because you can set it flat on a counter and pour the cleanser right onto it. It asts up to 600 uses to minimal involvement with charger/batteries is needed. The brush is made of body-safe silicone, which provides a good grip (even in the shower) and the single button necessary for operating the brush is easy to reach with the same hand because of how small it is.

Fortify facial mist travel capsule

£12.00

Small objects are easier to drop andmost of the time loose or unable to pick up!

The giant lid on this capsule is as wide as the bottle, making it highly visible when it rolls underneath a table, a bed etc.

“It’s now time to embrace people as individuals and celebrate uniqueness, not defining or labelling them by their differences.”- Kelly Knox

According to the NHS, a cochlear implant may be an option if you have severe, permanent hearing loss that is not helped by hearing aids. They work by turning sound into electrical signals and sending them to part of the inner ear called the cochlea. From here, the signals travel to the brain and are heard as sound.

“Nothing about us, without us”

SINEAD BURKE

Sinead Burke is an Irish writer and an advocate for disability and design.

Sinead has a condition called Achondroplasia. Achondroplasia is a genetic condition affecting a protein in the body called the fibroblast growth factor receptor. This protein begins to function abnormally, slowing down the growth of bone in the cartilage of the growth plate.

In 2020, Sinead founded her own company “Tilting the Lens” which is an organisation bringing visibility to inaccessibility. The aim is to design with disabled people, not for disabled people. “We craft solutions to intentionally build an accessible and equitable world.” Sinead’s work has been recognised by Vogue, The Business of Fashion, and Vanity Fair. She was the first disabled person to appear on the cover of Vogue.

The main conversation and focus in every room is, is this accessible?

“My vision for an urgent change being needed for the availability and affordability of accessible fashion products, is that I want consumers to have more choice about what they wear and the ease in which they can dress themselves independently.”

A statistic that is out of sync with the UK population-having 16 million disabled people-one in every six. So why is fashion so under populated with disabled people? Do they not feel safe, comfortable or supported to acknowledge their disability?

Education and knoweldge is a big part of it. People become ignorant or dismissive of disabilites simply because they do not understand or are aware of what is happening.

The need for funding for disabled students to be able to complete degrees in Fashion Design is imperetive. It’s important to have disabled designers involved. “Nothing about us, without us!” Therefore, the guidance from ‘Tilting the Lens’ is to encourage more diversity of the design aspect straight from the start; to ensure disabled people are at the heart of the innovations and conversations about them.

Addressing ableism

This is a continued discrimination of disabled people which can happen in discrete ways. Do brands believe disability is beautiful and stylish? Do we believe disabled people are capable and valuable to businesses?

This leads to educating on what disabilities can be. 70% of disabled people are not born with their disability-it is likely people will become disabled at some point in their lives. Whether this be permanent or temporary. And sometimes conditions don’t feel ‘disabled enough’ as self identity, and are also not always visible. For example, Autism, ADHD and Epilepsy. As not recognising these as disabilities because one cannot physically see it, creates a hierarchy and further stigmatise disability.

Budgeting for accessibility

It’s not only the media and advertising campaigns that need visibility in the industry, stores and physical space need to be accessible and follow the minimum standards needed for disabled people to thrive. For example, a wheelchair ramp into a photography studio, and having the ability to customise lightings. As well as changing rooms in a retail store need to be big enough for walking aids and wheelchairs.

Attired in Christopher Kane, at the National Museum of Scotland’s “Body Beautiful-Diversity on the Catwalk’” exhibit

MAKE EVENTS ACCESSIBLE

A lot needs to be considered when it comes to holding events/backstage/studios, etc. Strategies need to be physically and digitally put in place to ensure readily easy accessibility to every attendee regarding their ability and/or disability. An easy step-free access to the venue and a wheelchair ramp. A working accessible toilet would need to be onsite. Is the reception desk at a suitable height for everyone. For instance, someone in a wheelchair or someone with dwarfism-are they able to talk comfortably? The layout of backstage during the show-is there ample space for everyone to move around easily. Is it wide enough for a wheelchair or walking aid to get from the changing room to the runway? The lighting of the show needs to be suitable for people who may suffer with photosensitive epilepsy. Lifts also need to be available to anyone if having multiple floors. Is there parking available to be reserved for people who need it most, or are there easy transport links to the venue?

HIRE DISABLED MODELS

How companies and brands deal with models backstage shows truly if they believe in following the inclusivity needs. It’s all well and good having the models on advertisements or part of campaigns for the public to see but it’s the experiences during the work that is the most important thing. Ensuring everyone is treated fairly and small changes are put in place to ensure accessibility is it as the forefront of decisions, will create a positive experience for every person. Each model would require different needs so it is important to ask specifically what they need to ensure they are comfortable and at ease. For instance, someone may need more privacy in the changing rooms, or aids to help them dress easily backstage. It’s also important to not assume, that’s why methods and strategies need to be planned with the person to meet preferences on time and to standard.

INCLUDE ADAPTIVE CLOTHING COLLECTIONS ON THE RUNWAY

Brands are starting to make small changes and additions when it comes to producing accessible clothing.

Magnetic and velcro buttons instead of standard buttons zips are ways in which can make dressing for people who struggle, a little easier. Brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Asos are starting to make changes in the way they provide accessible products. It’s allowing people, for example with limb differences or mobility issues or stroke recovery to have more autonomy while dressing. Perhaps the more brands seeing other brands being more inclusive it makes them realise this is what every company should be creating. The disabilities and adapted clothing should be celebrated on the runways and shown off by the models, making everyone more aware of other peoples conditions.

HAVE AVAILABLE WEBSITES

Is there a website, is it accessible? Amendments may need to be implemented to meet suitable needs. It may be useful to hire disabled testers to audit your website and work with the designers and developers to make recommendations on areas that need improvement.

It would be useful to have an audio version of the website for partially sighted/blind people. Along with legible text-it must be clearly visible for people with low sight. Same goes for background colours and images. All of these will need to be carefully considered, for instance, for people who are colour blind. Images need to be of high quality and layout should be simple but thorough.

Alt tags are another strategy to help with consumers of little-no vision. These work by screen readers describing the image so they can understand with mental imagery of what the product is/looks like.

SHANI DHANDA

At age 2, Shani Dhanda was diagnosed with a condition called Osteogenesis Imperfecta (Brittle Bone Disease). This is a genetic, heritable disease in which bones fracture easily with no cause or minimal injury. Shani is 3ft 10in tall which forces a lot of challenges everyday.

There is a pre-conceived stigma that ‘disabled’ people are at high risk or will not perform as well- Shani discovered this when applying for jobs, as on her CV she stated her disability briefly and found she got zero interviews or acknowledgements compared to when she left this sentence out- she got interviews straight away. This just shows people are quick to judge disabled people before they have even met them or knowing their severity. These are experiences we don’t really hear of and suggests brands actually single out certain people.

Since this, Shani has devoted her whole life to advocating disabilities and breaking down the barriers and biases.

“When I buy clothes I have a limited choice that fit me and what I like.” Wearing clothes is something we all have to think about each day-it transforms and defines us. People shouldn’t have to constantly worry about what to wear. However, this is one of Shani’s

daily struggles along with a lot of other disabled people.

Shani is forced to wear clothes designed and made for 5 year olds. Needing to always alter them to fit her frame, it shows the lack of accessible clothing items out there. People shouldn’t find themselves wearing children’s clothes. Why are there more clothing options for dogs than there is for disabled people?

The statistic showing that 1 billion people on the planet suffer with some sort of disability-that is a lot of people struggling to find clothing that is suitable for them and their needs. ‘Refused the basic right of self-expression’ and feeling worthy within what they wear, feeling successful and confident.

“Much of my job is about looking presentable. I don’t have the privilege of being able to walk into a shop and come away with something straight off the rails. Not only do I have to pay for clothes that don’t fit me, but I also then have to pay for someone to cut half of it off. Whilst there are a small minority of brands working on adaptive fashion, I can’t afford to pay £100 for something that would cost £20 for everyone else.”

It shows adaptive fashion really is overlooked, and why is it that brands don’t have adaptive clothing? You never see in retail stores a section for accessible clothing. They are not represented. People want to feel enabled not disabled. “I dream of the day that big high street brands are stocking accessible clothing ranges.”

“I am often forced to buy clothing designed for 5 year olds, I’m 35”

DISABILITIES DON’T

The show starts, some of the performers are in wheelchairs, some are using other aids, and some are only using sign language.

Why is this classed as something unusual?

For many of these individuals, it will be one of the very few- if not the only time-they experience that, despite their passion for theatre. They will face substantially more obstacles than their able-bodied peers in creating a career in performing arts due to a lack of inclusivity and accessibility.’ Says Rosa Kataja.

Resources need to be accessible for those with disabilities, learning difficulties, visual impairments, cognitive or neurological disorders to be able to thrive in a performing arts career. As of right now the accessibility and opportunities are very low.

Statistics released by Arts Council England 2020, revealed that while disabled people made up 21% of England’s population, disabled representation at arts organisations amounted to just 6% of employees.

Productions on Broadway such as “The Elephant Man’ all casted able-bodied actors to play the main character who has a physical disability. “Wicked,” during its 15-year run, has not cast an actress with physical disabilities to play Nessa-rose, who uses a wheelchair to get around. Why not have people who suffer from the conditions, to play the role? It would make the character portrayal in the performances more credible, and reduce the overlooked group by making it more fair and equal for all.

Disabled actors should be offered the opportunity to play characters with the same condition. However, it’s important they’re not just reduced to these option roles.

Teal Sherer, an actress and wheelchair user, discussed in an interview with the Harvard Political Review, how disabled people should be considered for roles other than those that are disability-specific:“Why can’t

I play the mother, the lawyer or the teacher, because those are all things that I could be in real life? We’re often not seen for those roles because they feel like we’re gonna play a character to that character, and how that character has to revolve around their disability or has to be explained.” Disabled actors should have the opportunity to explore various roles based on criteria other than solely whether the character was written with a disability in mind.

STOP PERFORMANCES

‘Theatre companies must start implementing changes that make their productions welcoming and inclusive for all actors with disabilities and remain persistent in working to make theatre accessible for all.’

Often, times when disabled roles are performed, the disability is seen from a negative perspective and focused on the ‘burden’ surrounding. It’s either this or they’re seen as ‘heroes’ and ‘capable’ for completing everyday life tasks on their own. “This current prevalent ideology disallows disabled people to be viewed as equally competent artists as their able-bodied colleagues.”

It is not only the representation-the physical space needs to be adapted to cater for all needs. For example, parking spaces outside close to the venue, making sure there is access to all areas for actors who can’t use steps, (including stage access from both the wings) and also making sure that there are toilets/changing rooms close to the stage for quick and easy assess for the performers. Specific changes may need to be carried out to suit certain needs. For example, a ramp for backstage access, or even something as simple as ensuring the walk way to and from the stage is cleared of props. The physical environment of the rehearsal and performance process needs to be highly considered too. For instance, stage lighting providing a general lighting rather than glaring lights-to avoid interfering the performers ability to see and move on stage. This goes for both performers and audience members.

Set designers need to make sure that actors with different access needs can move around the stage easily for their safety and the safety of the other performers too. Costumes need to be personally modified to suit the specific needs; they need to be able to get them on and off without any fuss. Especially when it comes to quick changes. For example, need to accommodate wheelchair users, or someone who suffers with scoliosis, or an actor who suffers with sensory sensitivities.

‘By intentionally working to accommodate actors with disabilities, theatre companies can make productions less demanding on everyone and can make room for more types of expression. All theatre is better when improving accessibility and meeting access needs become regular practices.’

ADAPTIVE CLOTHING

Are you aware of what adaptive clothing is?

Adaptive clothing consists of garments that are specifically designed and modified for people with different abilities.

People with disabilities struggle with what is a simple task for many of us. Getting dressed. For those managing health conditions such as, Cerebal Palsy, Arthritis, Scoliosis, missing limbs, or shoulder surgery recovery-for example, adaptive clothing can make a significant and appreciated difference in life quality having reduced the difficulty it takes to dress themselves. It’s about dignity.

Adaptive clothing consists of modifications like, one-handed zips, magnetic closures or clothing designed so you can get dressed in a seated position.

It often appears more expensive as it involves a more complex development process and working closer with end users to determine the most effective and appropriate functions. Therefore, results in extra design and labour costs. However, big fashion brands are starting to catch on and are creating and developing accessible and adaptive collections, ideally more affordable. Asos created a wheelchair friendly jumpsuit in 2018, and Nike released their first pair of ‘FlyEase’ hands- free trainers in June 2021.

Tommy Hilfiger have also produced an adaptive line fit for all the family.

However, the entry of adaptive clothing has not always had a positive intake. Many brands, you can see what companies are really trying to understand their consumer, compared to those who are just ticking a box. “Not many companies have the platform and resources even to share the message of inclusivity and incorporate it into their media” states Maura Horton, chief community officer of Juniperunltd; an e-commerce and content platform for the disabled community.

For instance, despite Nike releasing their first pair of hands-free shoes ‘Nike FlyEase,’ they have been

highly criticised for not making them accessible for the people that do need it most. This is because they had a limited release of the product, therefore not making it widely available to everyone. This then prompted resellers to jump on the product and sell it for a much higher price. Therefore, this shows not really having the disabled community and the main purpose really at the forefront of the decisions. “They had good intentions but the delivery was poorly executed” stated Heyla Mohammadian-founder of adaptive underwear brand Slick Chics’s to Forbes. “They finally designed something with us in mind but then ‘forgot’ to give us access to the product” said Cat Wells.

Nike was also criticised for not being representative enough. Mohammadian states they lack of storytelling, “they missed the mark actually telling the story about it.” Rather than marketing their campaign to showcase the opportunity available to people who would benefit from it, the FlyEase advertisements missed able bodies engaged in actual active lifestyles. Campaigns could have been created involving sports professionals wearing these shoes running a marathon for example, or a netballer competing in a tournament. Emulating the real life scenarios that the people can relate to and feel inspired by.

Perhaps this is because they don’t know how to approach, or portray the lived experience. This implies brands should work with disabled people straight from the design starting process. Mohammadian states that to be truly inclusive, it should be engrained in everything you do- every hire, debate, discussion” and that her own brand has employed people with disabilities; who design and manufacture the products themselves.”

People with disabilities are rarely involved in the conception of clothing designed for them. Sky Cubacub, founder of adaptive clothing brand ‘Rebirth garments,’ says “many companies send adaptive pieces into production without testing them on disabled people first and default to particular features like magnets; without thinking through the functionality.”

Why do we not see as many campaigns/advertisements regarding abilities in the media?

When inclusivity is shown in the media it is often questioned, has it just been done to tick a box? However, many brands, especially smaller companies, struggle to be seen. Instagram and Facebook platforms don’t help the brands without large advertising budgets- often blocking images of adaptive clothing . “The current algorithms will visually scan the images and if there is any presence of a wheelchair, or crutches for instance, the ad is immediately denied and classified as medical,” explains Horton. “A brand can have two ads with the exact same outfit and descriptions-where the ‘only visible difference is that the model is a wheelchair user’-and the image depicting the wheelchair will be banned.

Although, these designers refuse to let these social media barriers stop them. ‘Recognising that to remain focused on the algorithms is to miss the larger picture.’ “The social model of disability says that what makes us disabled is not our medical condition, but the attitudes and structures of society, that is exactly what these algorithms are doing,” says Cat-Wells.

“It is only when society, culture and the law see us as equal, will we have this shift.”

“That shift- towards a world where people with disabilities are treated as equals- starts with normalising adaptive clothing. Independent brands like Slick Chicks are strategically partnering with major retailers who have greater visibility and access to a wider consumer mar-

ket.” It requires representation that is above the performative inclusivit

To conclude from this, personally I am shocked that brands are often stopped when posting or advertising certain adaptive content. I always thought that a brand created adaptive clothing for their consumers, or they don’t-mainly due to being uneducated or unaware of situations. I always thought perhaps advertisement and promotion could be an area of improvement for many brands when it comes to this, to help build up and increase the positive media perceptive regarding this topic. It just shows how small brands or even popular brands could actually be incorporating and trying to be involved in the adaptive clothing collections, however are actually struggling and being turned down when trying to promote, advertise and celebrate with everyone in the correct way.

Mohammadian says the censorship is hard for small businesses whose ability to thrive largely depends on maintaining access to their online communities. Still, “it’s a fight we won’t stop fighting.”

There is a lot of work still needing to be improved from brands, however small changes that have been made recently give an optimistic view for the fashion industry in the future. It’s nice to see brands starting to embrace and execute different design methods-this just needs to continue and increase on a wider scale. The designers will continue to push for better representation, and hopefully, in the future ‘adaptive’ will not be classified in a special category. “It should just be ‘fashion’; it should just be something that whether you have a disability or not, you can find the product you need.” Mohammadian insists.

FASHION MEETS PURPOSE

Get inspired by the latest collection by Tommy Hilfiger; clothing designed with and for people with disabilities.

Tommy Hilfiger has recognised the prospect to make accessible clothing for a wider range of people. Many fashion brands often forget to include the diversity of ability when it comes to models, and product releases.

Classic, stylish clothing with innovative design twists; including sensory wear, easier closures and soft fabrics to take the stress out of getting dressed each day.

One-handed zips, adjustable straps and magnetic buttons suited for all of the family so everyone can ‘express their personal style without the fuss.’

The launch of this clothing collection is in collaboration with the Runway Of Dreams, helping this brand to develop and provide adaptive clothing for both men, women and children.

Sensory wear-

Clothing of seamless, soft fabrics and heat pressed labels for zero irritation and scratching.

Easier closures-

Hidden, magnetic, hook & fly closures for people with limited dexterity

Fits for prostheticsMagnetic openings for people to dress around their prosthetics/casts or brace.

Seated wear-

Low fronts and higher backs for comfort when seating-no bunching or gathering of fabrics. No bulky pockets or uncomfortable seams.

Tommy Hilfiger campaign Spring18 launch

ence and ease.

Bri Scalesse, a New York based model who uses a wheelchair-“I’ve always loved Victoria Secret, I always watched their shows but never seen anyone who looked like me. No representation. But to see how Victoria Secret have rebranded and shifted this perception is something really my younger self couldn’t have imagined. The bra is comfortable and sexy; something every women should be able to feel.”

Victoria’s Secret adaptive line

Victoria’s Secret adaptive line

WHEELCHAIR FRIENDLY JUMPSUIT

ASOS is one brand that has managed to be inclusive without being exclusionary with the launch of its wheelchair-friendly jumpsuit. It is created with style in mind to create a comfortable, stylish practical jumpsuit. In partnership with Chloe Ball Hopkins, GB Paralympian and Bristol sports reporter says “it’s about making fashion accessible(..) not just for people like me in a chair, for everyone!” The jumpsuit costs £50.00 and has an adjustable hood, a longer hem at the back and soft jersey lining in the inside. With a tie-dye design and waterproof material. It also allows the wearer to adjust the sleeve length. It is available for anyone.

Chloe’s favourite aspect of the jumpsuit- “My thinking was the zip round the waist to make it a top & bottom as well is easier to get in & out of,” she said, adding that it includes “cuffed ankles to allow for shorter people aswell!”

People on social media praised both Chloe and ASOS for the product. “I am getting emotional reading this,” one person said, “cause I used to work in healthcare and I know how difficult it was for patients who wore clothes that weren’t designed for their disability.”

This is not the only way ASOS has shown their support within inclusivity. They are also committed to the body positive movement by offering clothing in a variety of sizes to accommodate different body types, as well as having unedited images of models on the website.

Not only that, ASOS has also strived to make beauty more inclusive with gender-neutral products.

“THERE ARE NO RULES OR LIMITS, JUST ENDLESS WAYS TO BE YOU.”

Disabled led, Unhidden was born from the lived experience of living with chronic illness and disability. Founder, Victoria Jenkins redefines her brand through the lens of her own journey with disability.

‘Say goodbye to the medicalised, uncomfortable, outdated accessible clothing, and witness the revolution of fashion- adaptive fashion that is colourful, stylish and can be worn by any body.’

“We’re all about not just saying we’re inclusive, we’re putting it into practice. Our team is disabled-led, we offer internship opportunities to aspiring fashion industry professionals from the disabled, chronically sick, neuro-divergent and mental health community. We also only work with disabled models and love being able to lift up and spotlight the community during industry leading events like London Fashion Week!”

The cost of the products are at the lowest they can possibly make it, while also ensuring they are made ethically and sustainably, using a fair-wage factory and dead-stock fabric.

An interview with Unhidden founder Victoria Jenkins… Vogue was on your vision board! So what’s on the new vision board? Unhidden on the FRONT COVER of Vogue! They are committed to better representing disability and fashion-that means they need to support adaptive designers too; there is enough of us around the world for them to make that possible in multiple editions, not just once. I have also put the Met gala on the vision board; either to dress someone there or to just get disability represented full stop-that stair case can handle a gloriously designed stair lift.

What about disabled and neuro-diverse people wanting to enter and make it in the fashion industry?

Firstly, you have to keep in mind there is little to no DEI (Diversity, Equity and Inclusion) training in fashion brands at present; there may be in retail but even then, not enough and not around disability. Look at potential places you want to work and check their reviews for company culture. While you can absolutely advocate to be included, be prepared for a harder battle to get hired, to get access-to get accommodations. I’m afraid it is very damning; it is a tough industry for non disabled people so really think about what you’re willing to accept and pick your battles!

I don’t think a degree is necessarily what you need; demonstration of creativity, passion and a good portfolio is your key. Being innovative in how you approach brands and stand out is the secret to success, as well as knowing as much as you can about each brand/area you want to work in; be data driven even, the more you can demonstrate what drives you and what your focus is the more desirable you become-I am lucky that adaptive fashion is my hyper focus, so don’t be afraid to utilise where your skill set lies. Finally; do not tolerate bad behaviour-’call it out with kindness’ where possible. We are not yet in the safe position of being able to be labelled defensive or difficult; there will always be an excuse or reason that is claimed not to be related to your conditions.

Able2Wear specialises in the design and manufacture of clothes for wheelchair users, or for anyone who has problems in finding essential clothing that fits properly.

‘After extensive research –and with the kind co-operation of wheelchair users, carers and professionals – we have built up a unique collection of garments that ranges from waterproofs to trousers; offering clothes for every occasion.

But we are not a fashion company –we also offer a wide range of accesso ries all designed to solve those everyday problems. Throughout design, manufacture and administration the staff at Able2 Wear work as a closely-knit team.

Several wheelchair users have played an important role in our team over the years, testing garments and acting as models at our photography sessions.’

Able2Wear have a wide range of clothing including footwear; trainers, boots and sandals. Boots are specifically designed to cater to men/women with extra-wide or swollen feet. Made from soft leather with extra pad ding, these boots feature extra-long straps and a deep, wide toe box, pro viding ample space and comfort for your feet. A touch-fastening single strap and a removable sole.

Their sandals feature four adjustable touch fastening straps, and can be opened out completely flat, making them easy to put on and take off. The soft, lightweight, and supportive design of these sandals ensures that you can wear them for extended periods without experiencing discomfort or pain, especially with the soft lining and padded ankle support.

From formal wear to magnetic shirts, the elasticated waist trouser range is ideal for men who can stand and walk, but may find it difficult to man age zips and fastenings. These trousers feature belt loops, allowing for the added security of a belt. The shirts incorporate hidden magnets along the front panel and arms that fasten effortlessly and remove the need to struggle with buttons.

These are perfect for customers who suffer from limited mobility or dexterity including Arthritis and Parkinson’s. However, are unsuitable for Pacemaker users and sufferers from Deep Brain Stimulation.

Majority of the products from Able2wear have a wide range of sizes avail able (s-xxl).

Accessories such as socks cater for Oedema and Diabetic needs also. With stretch gently to accommodate swollen legs and feet without creat ing pressure; they are designed with flat seams to help reduce sores and the ribbed texture prevents restricting circulation. The non-binding within the diabetic socks helps avoid restriction and pressure hotspots, and the honeycomb top moulds to the natural con tours of the leg, leaving no constriction rings.

NIKE- GO FLYEASE

Nike Go FlyEase works because the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge hold the shoe in a steady open position. With a heel that pivots open for a totally hands-free entry, they’re great for people with limited mobility-or anyone who wants a quicker way to get going.

ADAPTIVE TUMMYLESS BOOT CUT SEATED JEAN

$74

‘This pair of bootcut jeans crafted from flexible power-stretch denim. The cargo side pocket. And then there are the innovative design elements that bring comfort and convenience to these adaptive jeans, from the faux front fly and two velcro waist closures to the clean back with a higher rise and elastic waistband. A modern look with enhanced ease of wear, this is the perfect pair to add to your everyday wardrobe.’

ADAPTIVE SLIM STRAIGHT JEAN

$51

Classic style and modern innovation come together in a pair of slim-straight jeans. From flexible power-stretch denim, these adaptive men’s jeans feature classic five-pocket styling with a micro velcro closure and magnets in place of the standard zipper-and-button fly. Velcro fastening at the side of the legs allows for a customisable fit that accommodates leg braces and orthotics. It’s a timeless look with convenient details for ultimate comfort and ease of dressing.

ADAPTIVE SLIM STRAIGHT SEATED JOGGER

$58

‘Crafted from comfy stretch knit denim, the Adaptive SlimStraight Jogger has the best of both worlds: the worn-in look of a faded pair of jeans and the live-in-it feel of your favourite lounge pants. A faux front fly maintains a classic look, while two velcro waist closures and an elasticated back waistband make getting dressed easy and convenient. With two cargo pockets at the legs, the pair features a simple design at the back with no pockets and minimal seaming to ensure a feel-good fit you’ll love.’

Originating in Europe in the 1960s, Seven7 delivers seasonal menswear and womenswear collections, in a wide range of sizes and silhouettes. As one of LA’s most affordably priced premium denim brands, Seven7 Jeans is widely known for its fantastic fits, superior quality, handcrafted details and unique treatments.

“The Seven7 brand is about feeling fashionable in your clothing and comfortable in your own skin.”

Public Survey- Researching how brands adapt to disabilities in the Fashion Industry

I conducted a public survey to find out different opinions on how people view disabilities and how they are portrayed in the media. I thought it would be interesting having people of different ages and generations, as the media/socials have changed a lot through the years. I thought this survey was quite useful because receiving thoughts/opinions from people who do have a disability, but of those who don’t have a disability aswell. This has provided a wider perspective of experiences and beliefs.

After analysing the findings, in general people said they see disabilities in the media but only to a certain extent. As the majority of people said they only sometimes see disabilities shown in campaigns, (58.3%), however, are widely underrepresented in terms of the variety of disabilities shown. This leading to 78.4% of respondents think disabilities are not portrayed accurately in the fashion industry. Some people commented how often it is used as ‘a tick box exercise’ and that ‘disabilities are not represented enough in the media. Hidden disabilities such as visual impairments, mental health, diabetes, and chronic pain especially, as paraplegics, down syndrome and autism are more likely to be shown awareness of e.g, Victoria Secret’s runway show. There is nothing wrong with raising awareness for disabilities but there are a vast majority of disabilities that are not highlighted as much, which millions of people suffer from.’ Thus suggesting, the very few disabilities that are shown are quite selective, and disabilities you do not always physically see, are not considered.‘I feel that a lot of hidden disabilities go by un-noticed, but just because we can’t see it does not mean it is not there.’

76.3% of people state how there are unconscious biases/stereotypes in the portrayal of disabilities which ties in with how Lauren Wasser explains how having a disabilities shouldn’t be seen as a negative; or to be perceived as ‘less able’ because of their ability. It supports the fact that sometimes people can be seen as ignorant or feel awkward surrounding the topic; however, mostly it is because they’re unaware and not educated when talking about it. It should be more of an open conversation and shouldn’t be specifically categorised, especially when it comes to adaptive clothing-why does it need to be separate? Or for example, why are models classed as disabled models, why not just a model? Over half of the people (64.9%) had not heard of any adaptive clothing brands at all. It shows how little people see or are aware of what is available for people with different abilities; supporting the fact there is simply not enough available. As mentioned in previous articles some brands are starting to design and develop adaptive clothing, however there is just not a wide, affordable variety as of right now.

This is a comment from someone’s own experience living with a hidden disability and how they struggle seeing the representation. Perhaps a lot of brands do not cater for disabled people because they assume it’s harder to design for such a vast group of people as ‘everyone is different.’ It implies that a lot of companies ‘assume people with disabilities do not want their product or can’t have their products so don’t take them into account.’ However, this shouldn’t be the case; this is why brands should be educated on what needs to be adapted to ensure everyone is equal and needs are met fairly. “I am neurodivergent and also suffer from anxiety, there is little to no representation of those who are neurodivergent and who are on the spectrum. Although, it might be harder to narrow down and target such a vast group of people on the spectrum as the experience of a neuro-divergent person can differ from person to person. We have some representation from small fashion influencers; however, none have been partnered with any well-known/ high street fashion brands.

To conclude, there is a correlation between the answers from the respondents and from the research I have gathered from activists and well-known people in the media. All of whom say that it is clear the fashion industry is working towards a more inclusive and diverse industry, however, a lot of work still needs to be done. Perhaps, more positive and real campaigns and adverts- alongside education to provide to the viewers also. Suggesting portraying more of a diverse range of disabilities being included. The more awareness that is created, the sooner the decrease in stereotypes and stigma is held surrounding the topic. Everyone’s uniqueness should be celebrated, and not be defined or labelled by their differences.

Created by Taylor Austin