Fromfarleft:Ice formationsonthe cotasatCamp Kiattua;the northernlightsat Maniitsoq;ahot soak;theremote andluxuriouscamp atKiattua;and (below)themuseum atIlulissat. Photos: AningaaqCarlsen/ VisitGreenland; ArcticNomad
COVERSTORY Frozenintime
TheZodiacskimsacrosstheopenwater, shatteringtheglass-likesurfaceofthe morningsea.We’resittingonbicyclestylesaddleseatsandinthefrigidmorning airtheimmersionsuitswe’rewearingwork theirwarmingmagic. Althoughtheengineoftheboatis roaring,itforcesustoabsorbthe surroundingswithoutchatterandprovides astrangefeelingofcalm.
Thebeautybeforeusisunreal.Iridescent blueicebergs,differinginshapeandsize, loombesideus,theirmassesgleamingwith avibrantbluehue.
Lateratcamp,AnikaKrogh,our GreenlandichostandCampKiattua founderalongsideherDanishhusbandJon Krogh,explainstheicebergcolouris indicativeoftheamountofairtrapped inside.
‘‘Mosticebergsarewhitewithjustahint ofblue,buttheicebergsinthisareaoften appearbluerastheyareolderandthereby morecompressed.Withlessairtrappedin them,theocean’sreflectionisstronger.’’
Smallerchunksoficedon’tshimmerthat sameblue,andIknowthisbecauseKrogh stoppedtheboatonthewayheretoscoop abunchoutforourwelcomedrinks–signatureKiattuaginandtonicsmadeout ofmeltedGreenlandicicebergswithatwist ofhouse-madeangelicaandcrowberry syrup.
CampmanagerIngimarIgimarssonhas umpedbackintocheffingforthefewdays wearehere(hewasoncethechefincharge ofthepresidentofIceland’smeals),and everydrinkandmealheservesisanevent.
Locatedonaremotefjord1.5hoursby ZodiacfromthecityofNuuk,CampKiattua byNomadGreenland–a2022World LuxuryTravelAwardsglampingcategory winner,forwhatit’sworth–isnothinglike thecampsI’vevisitedbefore.
Physically,ourcampconsistsof10yellow tepees,eachonepositionedonawooden platformthathoversovertheArctic tundra.Thecone-shapedtentsare designedtofittwopeople,eachonedecked outwithtwobedstoppedwithreindeerand-sheep-furdoonas,beautifullocal furnishingsandgas-poweredheaters.
Butthiscampismuchmorethana scatteringoftents.Wespendourdayshere foragingforcrowberries,fishingforcod andArcticchar,andamblingalongthe plateausandmountains.
Thereare11ofusallup–eighttravel agents,twolocalhostsandme–all travellingtogetherforacoupleofweeks. Weareamismatchedbunchfromallover theworld,butwe’reallheretolearnmore aboutGreenland.AsIgettoknowmy group,Irealiseanothercommonthreadis ouryearningtobechallengedthrough travel.
Ioptforatestinguphillhikeand waterfallcrossingquestwithafewothers oneday.Wearrivequitelate–and moderatelywet–forlunch.AsIgulpdown themostdeliciousseafoodsoupI’veever tastedandswigaglassofwinefrom Skærsogaard(thefirstregisteredand licensedwineryinDenmark),the discomfortsoonfades.
InGreenland,Idiscover,you needto prepareforlooseplans.Theweatheris changeable,whalescometothesurface
whenyouleastexpectit,andwhenthe northernlightsputonashow,everything elsefadesintothebackground. Afewdayslater,whencruisingwith NuukWaterTaxionenight,Ispotaminke whaleblowingfountainsupwardsintoneardarkness.
Ourcaptainanglesatorchtofollowthe majesticmammal,andIjokethatseeingthe northernlightswouldsealthedeal.Then, asifheflickedaswitch,theymakean appearance–bulgingswellsofemerald greenandglowingwhiteunfoldinginfront ofuslikeaneonsignfromthegods.
Andthat’sGreenlandforyou.Aplace thatfeelssoveryfarawayfromanywhere else,yetitofferssomuch,andoftenthe unexpected.
Itcanbetrickytograsphowtravelworks herebecauseanicecapbarrierrenders mostoftheislanduninhabitable.Mostof thepopulationresidebesidethecoast,and overlandtravelislimitedtoafewroadsand dogsledswhenyoujourneyinfromthe shoreline.
It’stime-consumingtogethereandtoget around.Youcan’tjusthireacar,for instance,anddrivebecausethereareno roadsbetweensettlementsorsights.
Mostlong-distancetripsarebyseaorair, andforlogisticalpurposesfocusingonone ortwogeographicalregionspertripis recommended.
Andit’sveryprobablethatweatherwill
changeyourplansatleastonce,but sometimesthePlanBadventureistheone thatyou’llbetalkingaboutforyearsto come.
InGreenland,theunknownispartofthe attraction,whicheverregionyouvisit,and, inthisfollowingguide,throughtheeyesof locals,joinusonatouroftheislandtoend allislands.
THECAPITALREGION|Thenot-sobigsmoke.
Greenland’scapital–Nuuk–isasbigasit getsinGreenland.Hereyoucandineat upmarketrestaurants,visitmuseums,shop localorinternational,attendconcertsand soakupArcticcitylife.
Althoughit’stheeconomiccentreof Greenland,after10minutesinacar,you’re outamongnature.AdamKjeldsenand ThorlakNielsen,wholaunchedadventure guidingcompanyTwoRavensin2018,show visitorsexactlythat.
‘‘It’sprettyspecialthatyoucanbein town,andthatsamedaybeclimbingthe 440metre-highQuassussuaqmountainand hardlyseeasoul,’’saysKjeldsen.‘‘Thefjord systemwithitsmajesticmountainsand waterstrulyisspectacular.’’
Forthosewantingaslowerpace,the smallercommunitiesofPaamiutsouthof NuukandKapisillitintheNuukFjordoffer hiking,fishing,boatingandspectacular scenery.CampKiattuaisabout30minutes fromKapisillitviaZodiac.
It’sworthnotingthatworksareunder wayforanewairportinNuukthatisdueto openin2024.Itisoneofthreeairports beingbuiltinGreenland.
‘‘Thenewairportswilloffereasier access toandfromGreenlandandI’mconfident thatthenumberofvisitorswillincrease significantly.Thereisnodoubtthatthenew airportswillbeagamechangerinthe
developmentofGreenlandasatourist destination,’’saysJensLauridsen,chief executiveoftheKalaallitAirportsGroup. Seenomadgreenland.com;tworavens.gl; visitnuuk.com;watertaxi.gl
NORTHGREENLAND|Welcometo theicebergfactory.
Inthisvastandoverwhelminglystunning region,there’salwayssomethingnew aroundthecorner,withawe-inspiring kayakingadventures,whalesightings, glimmeringicebergs,andpicturebookperfectsettlementsmadeupofcolourful housesthatdottheotherwise-stark landscape.
ThecolourfulsettlementofIlulissatin DiskoBayisthegatewaytothenorthand provides accesstothefivekilometre-wide EqiGlacier–thefastesticeberg-producing glacierintheworld.
Oryoucouldsailalittlefurthertostayat IllmanaqLodgebyWorldofGreenland,at thetimeofwritinghometoGreenland’s onlyMichelin-starredrestaurant,Koks,a Faroesefinedinerpop-up.
ThesettlementofUummannaqishome tothecountry’snorthernmostferry terminal,andthethickseaicemakesitan idealdestinationforicefishingandice driving.Youcanalsogettoknowthelocals.
Thechildren’shomehereisoneofthe world’smostnortherlycarecentresfor youngpeople,andmanagerAnnAndreasen hasspentmorethan38yearscaringfor youngones.
‘‘Thechildrenarecitizensofthetown,’’ shesays.‘‘Theygotoschool,andplayand participateineverydaylife.Visitorsare welcometopopintothecentreforacupof tea.’’
MostpeoplenevergettoQaanaaq–the northernmosttowninGreenland–dueto logisticsandcost.The rewards,however, areincredible.Foroverthreemonthsofthe year,thesunnevermakesitabovethe horizon,andforfivemonths,themidnight sundancesinthesky.
There’ssomethingmagicalabouta destinationthatbathesintheextremesof dayandnightandisvisitedbysofew. Seeworldofgreenland.com
region,bestknownfortheUNESCOWorld Heritage-listedIlulissatIcefjord,itswaters studdedwithmassiveicehulks.Someof thesearesobigthattheytoweroverthe cruiseshipsthatsailby.
Duringsummer,millionsoficebergs splinteroffthefjordanddriftalongthe water,althoughinlessernumberstheycan beseenbobbingintheseayear-round.
Ilulissatisgeographicallypartofthe DiskoBayregion,butit’sapartof AvannaataKommunia(amunicipalityof NorthGreenland).Forvisitors,it’sjustone ofGreenland’skeytouristdestinations,and theawe-inspiringandever-changingice displayislocatedjustoutsideoftown.
Youcantakeacruiseandspotwhales alongwiththehugeicebergs,thenwatcha culturalshowandsavourafinemealin towntoendthedayonahighnote.
FrankLarsen,whorunsDiskobayTours togetherwithNiveHeilmannin Qasigiannguit,saysthatalthoughsummer isthemostpopulartimetovisitDiskoBay, everyseasonandexperienceismagical.
‘‘OneofmyfavouritespotsisSaqqarleq Glacier,’’hesays.‘‘Togetthere,wesail, driveoverlandandhike,andhavearest standingonanicesheetdrinkingicemeltingwater.’’
Thenthere’sQeqertarsuaq,another placethatcan’tbemissed.Greenland’sonly volcanicregionishometoblack-sand beachesstrewnwithicefragments, intriguinglyshapedbasaltpillarsthatbulge outofthewater,andvalleysthatsprout morethanhalfofGreenland’splantspecies. Seediskobay.gl;diskobay-tours.com
SOUTHGREENLAND|Ofbluebells andgreengrasses. ThesouthernmostregionofGreenlandis carpetedingreeninthewarmermonths. Sheepgrazeonpasturesthatstretchasfar astheeyescansee,andinsummeryoucan eveneatfreshvegetablesgrownbythe farmers–ararityelsewhereinthecountry. Tosoakuplocallife,whynotcatcha coastalferry?
‘‘Sailingplaysaveryimportantrolein theGreenlandicinfrastructureandaferry tripalongthewestcoastofGreenlandisa fabulouswayofexperiencingthisbeautiful andvariedcountry,searchingforicebergs andwhalesandwatchinglocalsdisembark
intothearmsoftheirlovedones,’’says TietseStelma,specialisttravelcompany50 DegreesNorthco-founder(alongwith JaydeKincaid).
‘‘WerecommendtheIlulissattoNarsaq segment.Theferrystopsatthetiniestof remotevillages,withtheunloadingof criticalsuppliesandmailcreatingabustle witheachportarrival.’’
Therearenoroadsorrailwaysthat connectdestinationsinGreenland,butin SouthGreenlandgravelroadsweave betweensomeofthesettlements,which shortenstraveltimessubstantially.
‘‘InSouthGreenlandwehavethebig glaciers,butwealsohavesheepfarmers andfreshproduceinsummer,aswellas ancientInuittraditions,’’saysSalik Frederiksen,co-founderoftouring companyTasermiutCampalongwith FreddyChristensen.
TasermiutFjord(afterwhichthe companyisnamedafter)isoneof Frederiksen’sfavouritesites.
‘‘It’sabeautifulareawithhigh-peak mountainsandmanydifferentlakes,andit’s especiallystunninginthesummerwhen floweringbluebellsembellishgreen-grassed hillsidesandmajesticblueicebergssnapoff thefjord,’’hesays. Seefiftydegreesnorth.com;tasermiutcamp. gl;visitsouthgreenland.com
ARCTICCIRCLE|Wheremuskoxen andreindeerroam.
Australian-bornLisaGermanyhadbeen dreamingaboutvisitingGreenlandfor morethan25years,andafterherfirstvisit in2017,decidedtomakeitherhome.Today sheworksasthecontentandtrails managerfortheQeqqataMunicipalityand livesinGreenland’ssecond-largesttown, Sisimiut.
Germanysaystheregionisspecial becauseitofferseveryGreenlandic experience,butwithoutthethreatofpolar bears.
‘‘NearKangerlussuaq,visitorscan’tmiss walkingontheGreenlandIceSheetatPoint 660,gettingaclose-upviewofthe enormousRussellGlacier,andspotting land-basedwildlifesuchasmuskoxen, reindeer,arcticharesandarcticfoxes. Maniitsoqisoneofthebestplacesfor whalewatchingandskitouring. -
FIVEGREENLAND THINGSTHATMAY SURPRISEYOU
Greenlandistheworld’sbiggest island ThetotalareaofGreenlandis2.16 millionsquarekilometres,andalmost 80percentofthelandmassis coveredbyanice cap.
Almosteveryonelivesonthecoast ThepeopleofGreenlandlive predominantlyonthecoastline,asthe restofthecountryis coveredbyice andsnowyear-round.Boatsarethe mainformoftransport ThelongestroadinGreenlandis only35kilometresinlength Boatsarethemainformof transportationusedbylocalstoget aroundinsummer.
Dogsledsarecommonlyusedin winter Greenland’spopulationis88per centInuit(oramixofDanishand Inuit)andculturalexperiences,like theuseofdog-sleds,areanimportant aspectoftravelhere.
Greenlandisanautonomous country Greenland,anautonomousnation withintheKingdomofDenmark,has enjoyedself-rulesince2009andhas therighttoself-determinationwith theoptionofindependence.
InGreenland,theunknownispartof theattraction,whicheverregionyou visit,writesTatyanaLeonov
