Thunder Dragon Land by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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TASTING 45

KITCHEN

THUNDER DRAGON LAND

BHUTAN

Mystic Kingdom

云中国度人间净土

PARO

Bounteous Bhutan 丰裕不丹

THIMPU

Layers of Tradition 传统「层」蕴

2020 LIMITED EDITION COLLECTOR'S TIN

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Created to be shared Christofle Hong Kong Prince’s Building Shop 117, Landmark Prince’s 10 Chater Road, Central Hong Kong 香港中环太子大厦117号店 Tel: +852 28697311 Christofle Hong Kong Sogo 12/F, Sogo Department Store, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾崇光百货12楼 Tel: +852 2833 820 0

STARTER

Prized for its antiseptic and healing qualities, wild honey is a Bhutanese favorite, often mixed with hot water or tea to make a sweet and soothing drink. Honeycombs are harvested from the forest and processed so that nothing is wasted: the honey is collected and sold in repurposed spirit bottles and the beeswax is used in making incense.

DAVID HARTUNG

野生蜂蜜是不丹人的最爱，因其消毒和治疗功效而备受推崇，通常与热水或茶混合制成香甜清心的饮料。不丹人在森林中采收蜂窝并进行处理，以免浪费一点一滴：将蜂蜜收集起来并装在循环再用的烈酒瓶中出售，蜂蜡则用来制作熏香。

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T A S T I N G 45

K I T C H E N

THUNDER DRAGON LAND

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com Units 1-2, 6/F, Oceanic Industrial Centre 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong +852 2116 1030

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer. Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Lucy Morgan

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Chris Dwyer

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Lucy Jenkins

MANAGING EDITOR

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA IMAGE EDITOR

jonna@babel.com.tw

EDITORS

Jane Wong

Zita Wan Vivian Pun

ACCOUNTANT

Asia One Printing

Terrie Lam

ASSISTANT EDITORS

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Kate Nicholson

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CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

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PRINTING 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

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ART AND DESIGN

Jonna Chen ACCOUNTS MANAGER

At COMO Uma Punakha, an intimate luxury lodge in Bhutan’s lush Punakha Valley, the sound of rivers flowing past is a constant, soothing presence. The hotel’s interior features stones collected from the riverbeds and painted with traditional designs. Here, they support a plate of Himalayan dumplings called momo, one of Bhutan’s most famous snacks. Their wrappers get a tawny freckling from a mix of wheat and buckwheat flours, and they are filled with minced meat or vegetables and cheese and often served with a searing dipping sauce made from toasted dried chilies.

不丹郁郁葱葱的普那卡山谷有一间私密的奢华酒店 COMO Uma Punakha，附近河流潺潺的流水如时间般不停流动。在河床收集的石头经人手画上传统图案，融入酒店的内部设计中，也用来盛装馍馍－不丹最著名的小吃之一。这些饺子的外皮由小麦和荞麦粉混合制成，带有黄褐色斑点。馍馍的内馅是肉碎或蔬菜配上奶酪，通常会搭配由烤干辣椒制成的辛辣蘸酱。

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2020

Photography by David Hartung

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Thunder Dragon Land, we explore one of the world’s most fascinating and well-preserved countries. Bhutan is famous for protecting its wilderness areas and strictly limiting the number of visitors to the kingdom. We start the issue with the work of an American artist who saw in the country’s green rice fields a call to a higher awareness of nature and its fragility. Once named Lho Men Jong, or “southern land of medicine,” Bhutan has long been a place of pilgrimage and a research hub for herbal therapies. We visit one healing center that follows the principle of health through food, while also providing guests with a sensory feast. Then it’s time for the issue’s main course, a full week at COMO’s Bhutanese luxury hotels, COMO Uma Paro and COMO Uma Punakha, recently voted the top two resorts in all of Asia. Our first guide is a talented sous chef who started as a steward and worked his way up the ranks. His authentic and original dishes feature locally sourced fruits and chilies and rice grown on slopes bordering the resort. Next, we taste four Bhutanese specialties, including momo, or steamed dumplings, and goen hogay, a fresh salad with farmer’s cheese and an extra kick from a dusting of Sichuan peppercorns.

Ema datshi, a national dish, is a cream curry made with green and red chilies and covered with a cheese sauce, and ezay is an explosively spicy and addictive red sauce. There’s also a hike up to the legendary Tiger’s Nest monastery, an exploration of the remarkably generous spirit of the Bhutanese people, and a look at the history, religion, legends, and magic of this utterly unique destination. Enjoy our captivating tour of the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

MARK HAMMONS

thunder dragon land

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CONTENTS

4 Starter

10 Verdant Vision • 12 Eating Well • 14 A Festive Collaboration • 18 Visual Tastings 28 Natural Elegance • 34 Bounteous Bhutan • 42 Mystic Kingdom 66 Paired To Perfection • 70 Sumptuously Sustainable • 74 Toasting South Africa

20 62

24 66

118 38 16

58 74

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14 108 102

116

CONTENTS

80 Dessert 62â&#x20AC;&#x201A; Layers of Tradition

14 108 102

116

118 38 16

58 74 42 thunder dragon land

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FOOD & ART

翠绿愿景

verdant vision In an artist’s hands, the ubiquitous rice paddies of Bhutan become a vibrant call for a greener world.

“BHUTAN,” says US-based painter Susan Swartz, “has long been a place of fascination for me.” The country, which is well-known for its dedication to preserving its wilderness, puts strict limits on tourist numbers, so Swartz was quick to snap up a chance to visit this last hidden Himalayan kingdom in September of 2014. The scenes she encountered – regal forest-lined valleys and wild gorges crested with crenellated peaks – were far different from the familiar vistas surrounding Swartz’s home studios in Park City, Utah, and Martha’s Vineyard. “The mounBY tains’ ruggedness was absolutely stunning,” she says, KATE NICHOLSON “especially when juxtaposed with the valleys’ calm• ing waters and the multilayered greens of the fields. ART BY These are what exemplify the beauty and specialness SUSAN SWART Z of the Bhutanese landscape.” Swartz spent much of her time exploring the cliffside monasteries and hiking trails of the Phobjikha Valley and the historical sites of Thimphu, Punakha, and Paro. She found that her deeply held spirituality and passion for nature, expressed through her abstract canvases and her work as an environmental advocate, perfectly aligned with the country’s culture, values, and spectacular terrain. When she returned home and sat down to translate onto canvas the feelings and mental images from her travels, it was the lushly green rice fields punctuated by flag-festooned bridges and temples that stood out in her memory. “It took me a couple of months to complete the five paintings in the series,” she says, “but I’d begun conceptualizing them from the moment I arrived back. I wanted to stay true to the colors and the landscape of Bhutan.” Classically trained in realist oil painting, Swartz today paints in acrylics that are applied to the canvas in multiple impasto layers to draw out the depth and richness of each particular hue. “Just as natural landscapes have their own unique contours and layers,” she says, “so have my paintings become heavily textured and sculptural.” Her evolution toward abstraction was influenced by her history of environmentally linked ailments, including the combined effects of mercury poisoning and Lyme disease that made her critically ill. “I came so close to dying, but my reverence for the natural world and my painting kept me going,” she says. “Although my illnesses brought tremendous havoc to my body and spirit, they also shook me out of my comfort zone as an artist.” Today, her work is a

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居于美国的画家 Susan Swartz 表示：「我一直对不丹很有兴趣。」不丹为保护其生态所付出的心力广为人知，更严密管制旅客数量，因此 2014 年 9 月一有机会，Susan 便前往探寻这个隐密的喜马拉雅国度。她平时工作的两间画室位于犹他州帕克城和马撒葡萄园岛，在不丹见到的却多是翠绿的溪谷及巨型峰谷，与她熟悉的景色截然不同。她形容道：「山陵险峻，谷间的溪流与交叠的翠绿稻田紧邻山峦，造就了非常壮观的景色。这就是不丹景致的美丽与特别之处。」这趟旅程中，Susan 大部分时间都在群山间探索，她前往富毕卡山谷的健行步道和山崖上的修道院，也造访了廷布、普那卡和帕罗的历史遗迹。

Susan 常以抽象画作与对环境议题的倡议展现她内心深处的灵性以及对大自然的热爱，而她发现这些情感与不丹的文化、价值观与壮丽的地势竟不谋而合。她回家后拾起画笔，将在这段旅程获得的感受与启发绘在画布上。令她记忆最深刻的是繁茂的稻

reflection of both her joys and concerns regarding the environment. While constantly aspiring to distill the ever-regenerative potential of nature into her paintings, she also strives to raise awareness of its fragility. Swartz found that visiting the pristine regions of Bhutan served to expand her horizons as an artist and also as a citizen of the world. Through her meditative depictions of Bhutanese rice paddies, she ultimately seeks to impassion her audience to serve as environmental stewards in their own backyards. “I hope viewers of my Bhutan series will see the vast expanses and richness of the country from a spiritual perspective, that they can pause their multitasking lives and appreciate the diverse beauty of our natural world.”

田，挂上旗帜的桥和寺庙点缀于其中。她说道：「我一回家就开始构思，但我花了几个月才完成这个系列的五幅画，我想忠实呈现不丹的色彩与风景。」

Susan 起初学的是写实派油画，如今她厚涂压克力颜料，层层堆叠，将每种颜色都表现得浓烈丰富。她说：「自然景色有其独特的轮廓，我的画作也受此影响呈现出丰富的质地，如同雕刻一般。」

Susan 曾因汞中毒与莱姆病并发而大病一场，她患病的经历与自然环境息息相关，这使她的画风变得抽象。她说：「当时死亡离我很近，但绘画和对自然的崇敬让我活了下来。疾病虽然磨损了我的身心，但也让我跨出舒适圈，成为更好的艺术家。」她现今的作品反映出自然环境带给她的欣喜与担忧，她渴望精炼出大自然不断新生的潜在本质，并注入画作中，同时力求让人们看见大自然脆弱的一面。

Susan 发现探寻不丹使她的眼界更为开阔，她期望不丹稻田的作品能引人深思，让人于生活中改善自然环境。她说：「我希望这系列作品能让人们从心灵层面出发，看见不丹的广袤与繁盛，让他们明白如何暂停忙碌的步调，好好欣赏自然界不同型态的美丽。」 thunder dragon land

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DESIGN

药食同源

eating well With thoughtful restaurant design and customized farm-to-table menus, a five-star retreat puts a luxurious emphasis on health.

Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary 酒店是个豪华避世秘 BHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY is a refreshing departure in global high境，外观如寺庙一般，客房备有阳台，还有以 end hospitality. The hotel’s temple-like facade, balconied guest rooms, 当地文化为主轴的养生体验。酒店设有餐厅、 and locally themed spa and wellness offerings complement a restaurant, 茶馆，还有坐拥傲人美景的用餐露台，可以看 tea bar, and dining terrace that overlook exhilarating vistas of the lushly 到林木蓊郁的 Neyphu 山谷。 forested Neyphu Valley. Veteran hospitality entrepreneur Louk Lennaerts worked Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary 对外开放至今仅一年左右，由资深的餐 BY with Vietnam-based Pure Design to craft an unparalleled luxury 旅创业家 Louk Lennaerts 与越南设 KATE NICHOLSON getaway that opened its doors just over a year ago. The master 计品牌 Pure Design 合作共同打造。 concept behind its welcoming feel is the tranquil rejuvenation of 酒店闲适的氛围源自他们希望为客人带来身、 body, mind, and spirit. 心、灵复苏的概念。不丹曾被誉为 Lho Men Bhutan, once named Lho Men Jong, or “southern land of medicine,” has ，现已成为举世闻名的 Jong，意即「药草之地」 long been famed as a world center of herbal therapy. A central feature of the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary experience is “food as medicine,” with the focus on the meticulous sourcing, selection, and preparation of each ingredient.

Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary kitchens are stocked with herbs and produce grown in on-site greenhouses. 餐厅使用的香草和农产品均是由自家温室种植

草药疗法中心。「药食同源」是这项文化的重点，注重食材的栽种地、拣选及烹饪方式。

Floor-to-ceiling windows ensure guests feel part of the Bhutanese landscape in front of them, even when it’s cold out.

ALL IMAGES PROPERTY OF BHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

落地窗确保客人即使在寒冷的季节，也能尽情享受不丹的风景

Executive Chef Parash Chhetri is a Bhutanese farmer’s son who went on to gain global culinary experience. He and his team seek to carry on their homeland’s ancient reputation by cultivating healing herbs and a wide variety of vegetables and fruits in greenhouses on the property. The hotel even has on-staff traditional doctors who consult with guests, guiding them on dietary and lifestyle changes. Their advice is incorporated into personalized meals as well as drinks from a tea bar that offers more than twenty varieties in addition to a menu of herbal cocktails. The hotel’s comfortable dining area is subtly divided, with the focal point of the center section a long “social table” crafted from local oak. “We notice that couples seated together at the table quickly become old friends, even if they’ve never met before,” says Lennaerts. “Restaurants should be a place for communication, and this brings people closer.” Smaller tables and the tea bar flank this central feature, and the grand double staircase does extra duty as a stage for music performances and storytelling. Immense floor-to-ceiling windows make the spectacular Bhutanese landscape a part of the dining experience. The element of openness extends to the kitchen, where the Sanctuary’s skilled chefs are seen at work. “We believe that aroma and sight are the first ways to delight our guests, before they even take a bite,” says Chhetri. To that end, the room’s designed-in-Vietnam appointments and traditional textile wall hangings abound with color. The furniture and paneling are of red-tinted Japanese pine, and the Britishsourced tableware comes in appealingly faded shades of yellow, blue, and red. “By offering our guests organic local delicacies in such a stunning architectural space,” says the chef, “we encourage them to remember Bhutan as a very special destination.”

游历四海的资深主厨 Parash Chhetri 来自务农家庭，他带领团队共同维系这古老的传统，在温室中自行栽植、采集各种药草和蔬菜水果。酒店还有不丹的传统医生驻场，能为宾客提供关于饮食与生活方式的建议，客制的餐点和饮品中也会依循这些建言调制。茶馆的茶品选择多达二十余种，也供应特有的药草调酒。酒店用餐区被正中央的一张以不丹橡木制成的「社交长桌」大致划分为不同区域。「我们留意到这些坐在同桌的宾客 Louk 表示：虽素昧平生却总是一见如故，餐厅就应该是个社交场所，能让人们产生连结。」长桌两侧设有较小型的餐桌和茶馆，双侧的巨型阶梯则可作为音乐演奏及故事展演的舞台，落地窗前的景致一览无遗，让用餐的宾客对不丹产生一种归属感。这里的厨房也是开放式的，宾客可以欣「客人在赏主厨们烹饪时的英姿。Parash 说：享用餐点前就接触到餐厅内的景象和香味，我们相信这是让他们心情愉悦的第一步。」餐厅的订制家具设计源于越南，墙上挂有传统的织布艺术。红色调的家具和墙板使用的是日本松木，来自英国的餐具以刻意褪去的黄、蓝、红色调点缀于其中。「我们手工制作有机的本地 Parash 表示：特色美馔，搭配餐厅的建筑美学，希望能让宾客对不丹留下美好的记忆。」 thunder dragon land

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节庆之作

a festive collaboration Patrón Tequila and artist Mimi Leung team up to celebrate the Year of the Rat.

ALL OF THE VISUAL MANIFESTATIONS of a classic Hong Kong Chinese

色彩缤纷的麻将、嘈杂的鞭炮、绯红的利是、

New Year – colorful mah-jongg tiles, sparking firecrackers, scarlet lai see envelopes, and frenzied lion dances – come to life in a very special collector’s tin created for Patrón Silver tequila. The tin’s vibrant images also include gladiolas and orchids, symbolic of

狂热的舞狮 ─ 这些常见于传统香港农历新

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年的景象，皆现身于培恩专为收藏家打造的限量版银樽龙舌兰酒礼盒上。礼盒上也出现了象征成功与富饶的剑

FEATURE

success and fertility, as well as other plants, traditional Chinese New Year foods like longevity noodles, and, of course, multiple depictions of the year’s rodent of honor. “When looking at our Chinese New Year tin,” says Jason Naussbaum, Patrón’s vice president of global programming, “you see the representation of icons steeped in ancient traditions paired with modern symbols. In the same way, we at Patrón respect and honor the history and tradition of tequila-making while incorporating new innovations and modern twists. “Every inch of space on the tin is grounded in significance,” he says. “One of the lanterns is a Patrón bottle. Agave plants are incorporated throughout the design as a nod to the tequila-making process. And the fireworks – a miracle of Chinese invention – explode to form agaves and the Patrón bee.” To produce the limited-edition container, a creative collaboration

兰、蝴蝶兰和其他植物，还有如长寿面这种传统农历新年的菜式，而今年不可或缺的生肖主角─「鼠」当然也没有缺席。培恩的全球品牌副主席 Jason Naussbaum 说：「我们的新年限量礼盒展现了古老传统与现代的融合。同样地，培恩除了向龙舌兰制酒的历史和传统致敬，也不断将现代的创新想法融入其中。」他介绍：「礼盒每一处都有标志性的意义，您可从其中一个灯笼上看到培恩酒瓶，融入整体设计的龙舌兰呼应了制酒程序，而源于中国的炫丽烟火也绽放出龙舌兰与培恩蜜蜂。」培恩此次与出生于香港的艺术家 Mimi Leung 合作，推出限量版礼盒。Mimi 擅长描 thunder dragon land

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PRESENTED BY PATRÓN

was forged between Patrón and Mimi Leung, a Hong Kong–born artist known for her striking illustrations, especially those with social-justice themes. “For the collector’s tin,” she says, “I drew inspiration from my childhood growing up in Hong Kong. When I was young, I was captivated by the noise and color of Chinese New Year – all the excitement, seeing my elder relatives, receiving lai see, and the commotion from mah-jongg and firecrackers. I have some powerful memories.” “Mimi,” says Naussbaum, “was the perfect partner for this project. This is our sixth year of creating our Chinese New Year tins, and each time, it’s a joy and pleasure to work with talented artists to see how each one’s unique style and vision brings this time-honored holiday and the Patrón brand to life. We’ve been able to carve out many similarities between our inherited cultures and passion points to create a series of tins that speaks to both Patrón Tequila and the beautiful history of the Chinese New Year. The entire effort this year was inspiring, and having the opportunity to partner with Mimi to create a truly beautiful product was a particular highlight for me.” Leung, who is an accomplished painter, illustrator, and printmaker, was raised in England and studied at London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Art. Since relocating to Australia several years ago, she has been based in rural Victoria, where she has found fresh forms of inspiration. “As someone who was always splitting my time between different cities,” she says, “it feels good to have a base here now in Australia. Especially since my second child was born, I’ve been motivated to focus on art centered around our little family as we evolve into our new chapter. I have my own studio and it’s a definite break from the city. Near where I live, there are some amazing river beaches and public gardens, and I’m finding bursts of creativity in the most unlikely of places.” Says Naussbaum, “We love working with inspiring individuals and finding common ground across our crafts and cultures, and we’re constantly vetting and ideating around new collaborations. Patrón is very excited about continuing the Chinese New Year series, and this May, our new Mexican Heritage Tin for Cinco de Mayo comes out. It will be available around the world, including at Global Travel Retail in Hong Kong.”

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绘撼动人心的画作，以社会正义为主题的作品尤其出名。她表示：「这次创作的灵感来自我在香港的儿时记忆。我小时候很迷恋农历新年的各种声响与色彩，那种兴奋、见到长辈和收利是的感觉、麻将和鞭炮的嘈杂声，都是很深刻的回忆。」「与 Mimi 的合作非常完 Jason 说：美。今年是我们第六年推出农历新年限量礼盒，透过每一次的合作，看到这些才华洋溢的艺术家以自身独特的风格为这节庆和培恩品牌带来新生命，真是件令人开心的事。我们从传统文化和消费者的认同中挖掘出许多共同点，并借此打造出成功结合培恩龙舌兰酒品牌形象和农历新年悠久历史的一系列礼盒。今年的成果令人感动，对我而言，最精采的部分就是能与 Mimi 合作打造出如此美丽的成品。」

Mimi 是位才华洋溢的油画家、插画家及版画家，她成长于英国，曾就读于伦敦著名的中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院和皇家艺术学院。数年前移居澳洲后便定居于维多利亚省郊区，此地带给她崭新的灵感。她说：「我以往在不同城市间搬来搬去，现在能在澳洲落地生根感觉很棒，尤其第二个孩子的诞生开启了我们的人生新篇章，也让我想把创作中心环绕在我们的小家庭上。我有一间工作室，能让我远离城市喧嚣，家附近还有美丽的河流、海滩和花园，我创作的灵感都在最意想不到之处涌现。」「我们很喜欢与带来启 Jason 表示：发的艺术家合作，并从中找寻不同艺术与文化的共同之处，我们也不断激荡出新想法。培恩很期待之后能继续推行农历新年系列礼盒，今年五月，我们也将以墨西哥的五月五日节为灵感，推出全新的墨西哥主题酒瓶，届时将在全球上市，香港的

Global Travel Retail 也会出售。」

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芳醇指标

VISUAL TASTINGS

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WINE ART

Provocative label images express the varietal qualities of a line of boutique California wines. BY LUCY JENKINS

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WINE ART

ST. HELENA CULT WINERY Orin Swift Cellars might never have been born if it hadn’t been for Dave Phinney’s friend inviting him, during their college years in the ’90s, to a semester of “study” in Florence. There he discovered the world of wine and winemaking and soon caught the fever. After graduating, he landed a seasonal job as a harvest hand at Robert Mondavi. The arduous labor convinced him that he wanted to work for himself, and, in 1998, Phinney founded his own winery, which he dubbed Orin Swift by combining his father’s middle name with his mother’s maiden name. Starting with little besides a couple of tons of zinfandel, he steadily grew the business and its reputation over the years by crafting a series of interesting wines for himself and others. Phinney’s ambition was to blend his love of wine and vineyards with his taste for highly original art. Each wine begins with his connection to particular California vineyards and their distinctive characteristics. His design of every packaging element, from the glass of the bottles to the material of the labels and the memorable images printed on them, serves to convey each wine’s unique flavor profile. Eight selections from Orin Swift’s collection, Phinney’s top choices from Napa, Sonoma, Santa Barbara, and other of the state’s famed growing areas, have now landed in Hong Kong and are making ripples among the city’s fortunate oenophiles.

PALERMO CA B E R NE T S A U V I G N O N 赤霞珠

“ I F O U N D T H I S P H OTO by Vincent Musi,” says Phinney. “He’s been a regular contributor to National Geographic since forever. It’s a shot of a kind of mummified priest in a sixteenth-century catacomb in Palermo, Sicily. There is such a sense of power and dignity and reverence to the image, and I thought that’s kind of how we think about great cabernet – we just really respect it. I think it makes a statement about the wine, which I like to call ‘separate among equals.’ “Palermo could be considered our most approachable cabernet and it’s a true representation of Napa. It changes every year, but I get great fruit from all over, usually Rutherford, St. Helena, Atlas Peak, Coombsville, and other places, too.”

若非因为 Dave Phinney 在 90 年代大学期间受朋友之邀到佛罗伦萨见习一个学期，圣赫勒拿的奥林发现葡萄酒和酿酒的世界，并深深着迷。毕业后他在蒙大维酒庄接下一份季节性的收成工作，艰苦的努力付出使他确信日后要自立门户。1998 年他创立了自己的酒庄─奥林史威福特，取名自他父亲的中间名与母亲的婚前名。除了仙粉黛混酿之外，他也慢慢开发其他酒款，为自己和大众酿造一系列新奇的葡萄酒，事业和声誉于几年间不断攀升。Dave 的目标是将自身对葡萄酒和葡萄园的热情结合对原创艺术的高品味。每款葡萄酒都与某个加州葡萄园及其特色息息相关，而每款包装元素的设计─从瓶身玻璃、标签材料，以及印于瓶上具纪念价值的图样─均充分表现出各款葡萄酒的独特风味。奥林史威福特酒庄典藏的八个系列，由 Dave 从纳帕、索诺玛、圣巴巴拉以及该州其他著名地区中精挑细选，现在也能在香港一窥堂奥，让香港的品酒行家津津乐道。

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LABEL ART COURTESY OF ORIN SWIFT CELLARS, DAVID HARTUNG (PRECEDING PAGE )

史威福特酒庄可能就永远不会诞生。Dave 在那儿

「我发现这张来自《国家地理》定期撰稿 Dave 说：人 ─ Vincent Musi 的照片，是他在西西里岛巴勒莫一座十六世纪地下墓穴中所拍摄的木乃伊牧师。照片中的力量、尊严和崇敬之感也是我们对赤霞珠红酒的感觉，我们真的很尊崇它。它俨然定义了红酒，如同我们常说的『同中取异』。」「巴勒莫的赤霞珠葡萄可说是最易取得，也真实呈现了纳帕的风土。虽说每年都有变化，但还是能从卢瑟福、圣赫勒拿、阿特拉斯山顶、库姆斯维尔和其他地方收成甜美的葡萄。」

WINE ART

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当一款名为「囚犯」的仙粉黛混酿销售一空后，几次不如意的收成使 Dave 难以酿造出新酒款，而「沙漠八年」却让他突破了酿酒困境。他说：「我无法告诉你我浪费了多少时间和脑细胞执着于酒名和酒标设计。在巴黎的某个温暖夏夜，我身陷瓶颈，自以为有了点子，于是起床写下那『天才』的想法，再回去睡。隔天重读后，其荒谬和突兀真是让我感到尴尬，于是决定停止尝试并顺其自然，而同时我开始想写书。」「提到它的唯一原因是，由于『沙漠八年』就是其中第一篇故事的标题，让我偶然地想到了酒名和酒标的设计概念。运气的降临实在是好过一味追求。很高兴我又重新认识仙粉黛。」

THE DESERT

8 YEARS IN

THIS WAS PHINNE Y’S breakthrough from “winemaker’s block” after he’d sold off a previous zinfandel blend called Prisoner and struggled through several difficult harvests in trying to create a new one. “I can’t tell you how many hours and brain cells I wasted obsessing over potential names and label art,” he says. “I finally hit rock bottom on a warm summer night in Paris. I woke up and thought I had it. I wrote down my ‘genius’ idea and went back to sleep. The next day, I read it and was embarrassed by its absurdity and obviousness. I decided right then to stop trying and wait for something to happen, and, in the meantime, I’d write a book. “The only reason I mention it is because the title of the first story in it is ‘Eight Years in the Desert.’ By accident, I’d solved for the name and label concept. Better to be lucky than good, much better. It’s been great getting to know zinfandel again.”

Z I NFA N D E L B L E N D

LABEL ART COURTESY OF ORIN SWIFT CELLARS

仙粉黛混酿

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LABEL ART COURTESY OF ORIN SWIFT CELLARS

WINE ART

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PAPILLON “MY DAUGHTER WAS ABOUT three years old,” says Phinney, “and I was walking through the vine-

yard with her on my shoulders. A butterfly flew by and she pointed and said, ‘Look, Dad, papillon .’ I was like, wow, when did you learn French? I’d been thinking about my next label and I knew I wanted a prison-style tattoo on somebody’s knuckles. It clicked – papillon is eight letters. “I love the juxtaposition of this beautiful French word on these really gritty hands. I got one of our growers to be our hand model. He’s one of the nicest guys and an old-school farmer, and we wanted that farmer’s-hands look. The photograph was taken by Greg Gorman, who shares my passion for wine.” Phinney describes Papillon as a perfect Meritage blend of all five of the traditional Bordeaux varieties: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot, and malbec.

「当时三岁的女儿坐在我肩上一起走过葡萄园，她指着一只翩翩飞舞的蝴蝶说：『看呀，爸爸， Dave 说：』我心想，哇，妳什么时候学会法文？当时我正在思索着下一款酒标的设计，想是蝴蝶 ( 法文 papillon)。在某人的指节上纹上监狱式的刺青，碰巧法文中的蝴蝶就是八个字母。」「我喜欢这个美丽法文单字与一双厚实双手的结合，于是找来一位我们忠厚老实的栽种者作为双手」模特儿，因为我们要的就是一双农夫的手，并由同样热爱葡萄酒的 Greg Gorman 来拍摄照片。

Dave 形容「心手相印」红酒是拥有五种传统波尔多葡萄品种的完美梅里蒂奇混酿 ─赤霞珠、卡本内弗朗、梅洛、小维多和马尔贝克葡萄。

B O R D EA U X B L E N D 波尔多混酿

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WINE ART

MANNEQUIN C H A R D O N N AY 霞多丽

AS HE WAS DRIVING ONE DAY, the image of a row of nude mannequin torsos came to Phinney in the words of a Nicki Minaj song: “It had a line, ‘You at a standstill, mannequin,’ and it got me thinking about how their purpose is to serve as stylized representations of the human form to showcase clothes or, in this case, a wine. “Clothing, much like wine, evolves over time to reflect trends, nature, and creative whims, yet the mannequin always remains static. With this image, I knew it should be a white wine. It was conceived as a blend, but it gradually developed into a cuvée dominated by chardonnay and blended with aromatic varieties that change from vintage to vintage. We choose grapes from vineyards with particularly cool climates to provide lush flavors with bright acidity.”

某天当 Dave 在开车时，听到一首 Nicki Minaj 的歌，脑海便浮现一排裸身的人形模特儿。他说：「有一句歌词是『人体模型你站着不动』，让我想到模型风格化的人体呈现，目的就是为了要展示时装，而我也可以用它来展示葡萄酒。」「时装犹如葡萄酒，随着时间推移而发展，反映出趋势、自然和创意，但橱窗模特儿始终不变。这使我联想到白葡萄酒，原本被视为混酿，但逐渐发展成为由霞多丽主宰的葡萄酒，而每个年份的出产都风味各异。我们选择气候特别凉爽的葡萄园，其所产葡萄带有明显酸度的迷人风味。」

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「大千世界」酒标中的流行艺术风格起源于 Dave 的旅行嗜好。他说：「我环游世界，在机场度过不少时光，所以我在所待的国家会购买约十本杂志，而『大千世界』红酒的灵感来自一位意大利设计师在自家客厅所贴的一幅拼贴画。此后三年里，在飞机上我都会花时间撕下杂志中我喜欢的图片，当搜集足够多的图片时就将它们拼凑起来，要花上大约两个星期，实在是不容易。」「第三天后，我们关起办公室的一部分，因为担心有人会开门，风一吹就毁了一切，而每晚我都会拍照以防万一。当全部拼贴完成后，我们搭了一座梯子并由上往下俯摄，那是创作过程中

LABEL ART COURTESY OF ORIN SWIFT CELLARS (2)

ABSTRAC T

最容易的部分！这款是以格纳希葡萄为底的葡萄酒，融合西拉和小西拉葡萄，代表了整个加州，展现其气候及特色并传递加州的故事。」

THE POP-ART ST YLE of Abstract’s label finds its origin in Phinney’s wanderlust. “I travel

internationally and spend a lot of time in airports,” he says, “so I’ll buy about ten magazines from whatever country I’m in. “Abstract was inspired by a photo of a collage that an Italian designer had tacked up in his living room. For the next three years, I spent time on planes ripping out images from magazines – just things I liked. When I had enough great ones, I pieced them together. It wasn’t easy at all, it took about two weeks. “After the third day, we closed off that part of the office for fear someone would open a door and a gust would blow everything apart. Every night I’d take a picture as a safety measure. When it was done, we got on a big ladder and shot it – that was the only easy part! The wine is a grenache-based blend with syrah and petite sirah, and it represents all of California – the pieces and climates and features that tell the story of the state.”

G R EN A C H E SY RA H P E T I T E S I RA H 格那希西拉小西拉

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TASTING DESTINATION

揉合自然的优雅

Natural Elegance

A chef who came up through the ranks features local products in his sophisticated yet traditional Bhutanese food.

“I STARTED WORKING at COMO Uma Paro as a steward,

「我是孤儿，没有足够资源接受良好的教育，

但我需要一份工作。」Damber Gurung 说。 washing pots and pans,” says Damber Gurung. “I was an 「于是我开始在 COMO Uma Paro 酒店清洗 orphan, so I couldn’t get a higher education and I needed 锅碗瓢盆，这就是我进入餐饮业的起源。」 to find a job.” Gurung quickly developed an avid interest 当时的他很快便爱上了烹饪。「看到那些主 in cooking: “I saw the chefs at work, and I got a passion 厨工作的模样燃起了我对这份 for the job and wanted to join them. It was my BY 职业的热情，我渴望成为他们 dream to become a chef, so I started working LUCY MORGAN 的一份子，于是加倍努力地工 hard.” • 作，希望能一圆我的主厨梦。」 Now, fifteen years later, Gurung is sous PHOTOGRAPHY BY 十五年后的今天，Damber chef at sister property COMO Uma Punakha, the DAVID HARTUNG 成为了姊妹店 ─ COMO Uma second luxury resort in Bhutan for COMO Hotels Punakha 酒店的副主厨，该酒 and Resorts. Its charming rural location is shel-

tered by mountains and surrounded by fertile farmland. The more temperate climate of the Punakha Valley is perfect for growing tropical fruits like bananas, guavas, and oranges. And its fields of chilies in a profusion of colors are punctuated with plots of land bristling with the emerald fronds of young rice plants. Gurung has his very own small rice paddy on a gently sloping strip just outside the resort’s fine-dining restaurant, Bukhari. “We use our home-grown rice in our dishes,” he says, “and I try to buy from local producers as much as possible.” Rice, the staple of the Bhutanese diet, comes in many strains, including a beautiful burgundy-colored variety. “Steamed red rice, which I love, is served on special occasions,” says Gurung. Another of his favorite delicacies

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店为 COMO 酒店集团在不丹设立的第二间豪华酒店，地处群山环抱、土地沃腴的普那卡谷 (Punakha Valley)，气候温暖宜人，适合栽种香蕉、芭乐、柳橙等热带水果，遍布色彩鲜艳的辣椒田，小块稻秧田散布其中，为这幅景致点缀了几抹翠绿。

Damber 在酒店的高级餐厅「Bukhari」外边的缓坡上，有一小片自己的稻田，他表示：「我们的菜肴使用的都是自己栽种的稻米，其他食材也尽量在当地采购。」米饭是不丹人的主食，品种繁多，其中一种带有美丽的酒红色泽。Damber 表示：「我很喜欢蒸红饭，这道菜通常在特殊场合才见得到。」他还有另一项最爱的佳肴，就是由山峦拂起的凉风自然烘干的猪肉：「我

Chef Damber Gurung surveys his personal rice paddy 主厨Damber Gurung 眺望自己的稻田

TASTING DESTINATION

At Restaurant Bukhari, Chef Gurung uses the freshest local ingredients to make his traditional dishes 在「Bukhari」，主厨使用最新鲜的当地食材烹制传统菜肴。

is pork that is left to dry in the crisp mountain winds: “I like it sliced and fried in a wok with onion, ginger, and chilies, but I think it might be too spicy for foreigners.” The Bhutanese tolerance for culinary heat is impressive. Gurung, who says he has eaten spicy foods from infancy, relishes the potent kick but also recognizes that many visiting guests are not accustomed to the fiery levels of the country’s cuisine. One traditional specialty that doesn’t pack quite such a punch is a refreshing salad of ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh farmer’s cheese, given a bit of zing with locally grown Sichuan peppercorns. “A simple dish like this calls for the highest quality produce,” he says. “We’re lucky that our local vegetables have such wonderful flavor. This is a salad that Bhutanese people eat very often, one that you’ll also see at feasts and celebrations.” Gurung’s menu changes with the seasons, but one dish that’s popular year round with both guests and locals is momo, steamed dumplings filled with ground meat or a mix of vegetables and encased in pastry. A celebrated snack enjoyed across the Himalayas, varying versions of it are found in Nepal, Tibet, and China. “Momo are very Bhutanese,” says Gurung. “We make our wrappers by hand from a mix of buckwheat and regular wheat flour.” The naturally brown-f lecked appearance of the wrappers comes from the buckwheat, which, because it can grow at altitudes where rice cannot, is used for dumplings by the people living in higher regions of the country. Gurung favors organic materials in his characteristically appealing presentation: “I like to place the momo on a betel leaf and to use a wooden plate – it’s natural and elegant at the same time.”

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TASTING DESTINATION

喜欢把它切片，跟洋葱、姜和辣椒一起放在炒锅里快炒，但我认为这道菜对外国人而言可能太辣了。」不丹人对辣味的耐受度高得惊人，

Damber 从婴儿时期就开始吃辣，尽管他很享受这种充满后劲的风味，但他也发现许多来访的客人对不丹料理的辣味接受度并不高。「Bukhari」有一道相较下口味较轻的传统菜肴，是由番茄、小黄瓜、新鲜农家奶酪组合而成的沙拉，再以当地植栽的花椒点缀风味。「呈现这种朴实的菜式时，食 Damber 指出：材品质尤其重要，这里的本地蔬菜风味绝佳，我们很幸运能拥有这么好的食材。不丹人很常吃这道沙拉，在各种节庆场合都会端出它。」

Damber 会随着季节更迭变换菜式，但有道名为「馍馍」的菜肴一年四季都广受外来宾客及当地人的喜爱，馍馍是以面皮封住肉碎或蔬菜馅制成的蒸饺，在喜马拉雅山区域颇负盛名，也以不同形态流传于尼泊尔、西藏和中国。「馍馍是很传统的不丹 Damber 解释道：菜肴，我们混用荞麦粉和一般的小麦面粉，自制手工饺子皮。」这些饺子皮上的天然褐色斑点就是荞麦，生活于高地的不丹居民会以荞麦粉制作饺子皮，因荞麦能生长于无法栽种稻米的高海拔地区。Damber 钟爱将有机食材融入他匠心独具的精美菜肴：「我喜欢把馍馍放在槟榔叶上，再以木盘盛装，呈现出一种既结合自然又优雅的感觉。」

← Traditional noodle soup 传统汤面 → Buckwheat momo 荞麦粉制的馍馍

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INGREDIENTS S I C H U A N P E P P E R CO R N S 花椒

G R O U N D C H I L I 辣椒粉

S A LT 盐

CUCUMBER 黄瓜

Bounteous Bhutan 丰裕不丹

From the country’s abundance of fresh ingredients, a hotel chef assembles three national favorites. BY LUCY MORGAN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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TO M ATO 番茄

S A LT 盐

FA R M E R ’ S C H E E S E ( O R F E TA) 酪农奶酪（或菲达奶酪）

ONION 洋葱

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INGREDIENTS

蔬菜沙律

GOEN HOGAY BHUTAN IS BLESSED with wonderful produce, and during the summer, crisp cucumbers and flavorful tomatoes are especially plentiful. This popular salad, one of the country’s milder-tasting dishes, relies on the sun-ripened qualities of such locally grown vegetables as well as on the subtle perfume of coriander and the creamy texture of farmer’s cheese. Sichuan pepper grows in profusion across the kingdom, and bunches of the tiny citrus-scented globes plucked from the trees are used to add their magical, tongue-tingling qualities to this dish. It is this extra layer of flavor and texture that elevates goen hogay to a feast, one that invariably appears on celebration tables across the country. Nisha Limbu, junior sous chef at COMO Uma Paro, slices fresh onions into half-moons and then skins and seeds cucumbers, cutting them into “horses’ ears,” a technique echoed in the kitchens of China. “You don’t have to remove the seeds,” she says. “I prefer to leave them in because I think they add an interesting flavor, but here at the restaurant, we usually take them out.” Plum tomatoes are roughly chopped, releasing a gust of their deliciously summery fragrance. The ingredients are placed in a bowl, sprinkled with salt, and given a light dusting of ground Sichuan peppercorns. “We put the seasoning straight onto the cut vegetables to intensify the flavor,” explains Limbu. Then she adds cubes of a delicious cow’smilk farmer’s cheese with a strong and salty flavor. “The closest thing you’ll find to this outside of Bhutan is feta,” she says. “But if you use that, use one that has not been packed in brine.” She crumbles the cheese over the salad and generously adds ground chili. “Mix with your hands,” she says, gently turning the ingredients until they acquire a light, creamy coating of cheese. “It’s a bit like a Greek salad, but spicier – we Bhutanese love the fierce heat of chilies.” She finishes with a little chopped coriander to add a whisper of herbal aroma.

不丹拥有得天独厚的优质农产，夏季时特别盛产爽脆的黄瓜和甜美的番茄，这道广受喜爱的沙律是口味清爽的不丹料理之一。其特色在于当地种植蔬菜在日光熟成下的品质、香菜的微妙香气和酪农奶酪的浓郁质地。花椒遍布不丹王国，从树上摘下一粒粒的橙香花椒为料理增添奇妙、麻舌的口感，正是这抹外加的风味和口感使蔬菜沙律幻化为一道美馔，总是出现于全国各地的庆祝餐宴中。 COMO Uma Paro 的初级副主厨 Nisha Limbu 将新鲜洋葱切成半月状，然后将黄瓜削皮去籽后切成「马耳状」，这种切法在中式厨房中亦很常见。 Nisha 说：「其实不一定要去籽，我偏好留下籽，觉得可以增加有趣的味道。但是在餐厅，我们还是会将籽取出来。」李子番茄切过后，散发出一股甜美的夏日风味。

Nisha 将食材放进碗里并撒上盐和「我们将调味料些许花椒粉，她解释：直接撒在切好的蔬菜上来增强风味。」加入浓郁咸香的酪农奶酪块后，她续说：「在不丹以外，与之最相似的就是菲达奶酪，但是若真要用到菲达奶酪，请选用没有浸在盐水中的。」她将奶酪弄碎后铺在沙律上后潇洒地撒上辣椒粉，并解释：「用双手来搅和，轻拌着沙律，直到食材都覆有一层轻薄滑顺的奶酪为止。这有点像希腊沙律，但味道更辣，我们不丹人就是喜欢辣椒的呛辣口感。」最后她用一点切碎的香菜来添加一抹香草的清芳。

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THAI RED CHLIES, THAI GREEN CHILIES, JALAPEÑO PEPPERS 泰国红辣椒、泰国绿辣椒、墨西哥辣椒

G A R L I C 大蒜

S A LT 盐

ONION 洋葱

F R E S H CO R I A N D E R 新鲜香菜 FA R M E R ’ S CHEESE ( O R F E TA) 酪农奶酪（或菲达奶酪）

TO M ATO 番茄

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INGREDIENTS

辣椒奶酪炖菜

EMA DATSHI CONSIDERED ONE of Bhutan’s national dishes, ema datshi takes its name from the words in the Dzongkha language for its two principal ingredients, ema, meaning “chili,“ and datshi, meaning “cheese.” Essentially a creamy curry ablaze with a combination of red and green chilies, this dish is enjoyed all across the kingdom. There are a number of variants of datshi in which potatoes, mushrooms, or beans are substituted for chilies. The constant in each one is the curd cheese sauce, which coats the vegetables and brings a satisfying dairy richness to the recipe. These alternatives are perfect for palates less accustomed to a lot of chilies. “Ema datshi is one of our favorite dishes here in Bhutan,” says Limbu. “For my signature version, I use a mixture of Thai red and green chilies and jalapeños. We use farmer’s cheese, like a curd, but outside of Bhutan, I’d use a mixture of grated feta and cheddar to add that same piquant freshness to the sauce.” The chef cuts ten ounces of mixed chilies into smaller pieces, taking care to remove the seeds, which might make the curry too hot. She melts a knob of butter in a frying pan, adds one sliced onion, one sliced tomato, and three crushed cloves of garlic. “You can put some grated ginger in the mix too if you like.” Then she swiftly adds the chilies, tossing them in the pan until coated with the lightly sizzling butter, pours a cup of cold water over the ingredients, sprinkles in a good pinch of salt, and cooks the mixture gently until the chilies have softened and most of the water has evaporated. Finally, Limbu turns off the flame and adds ten ounces of grated cheese to the vegetables, allowing it to melt in the residual heat to produce an appetizing sauce. Her temptingly fragrant dish is served on a bed of rice. “The rice and cheese help offset the heat of the chilies,” she explains. A few sprigs of fresh coriander are added just before serving.

辣椒奶酪炖菜被视为不丹的国菜之一，名字取自其中的两样主要食材，宗喀语中的「辣椒」ema 和「奶酪」datshi，整道料理其实就是结合了红、绿辣椒的香滑咖喱，盛行于整座不丹王国。奶酪炖菜有多种变化，其中会以土豆、蘑菇或豆类来取代辣椒，但始终不变的是裹覆着蔬菜的凝乳奶酪酱，为料理带来奶酪令人满足的浓醇风味，这些变化过后的料理非常适合不习惯吃辣的客人。「在不丹，辣椒奶酪炖 Nisha 说：菜是我们最喜欢的料理之一。在我的招牌版本中，我混用泰国红、绿辣椒与墨西哥辣椒，使用的是酪农奶酪，就像凝乳，但在不丹以外，我会混搭菲达奶酪丝和切达干酪丝来为酱汁添加同样迷人的新鲜美味。」

Nisha 将十盎司的混合辣椒切成小段，小心翼翼地去籽，因为籽可能会使咖喱过辣。她在煎锅中融化一小坨黄油，加入一颗切片的洋葱、一颗切片的番茄和三瓣辗碎的大蒜。她介绍：「依照喜好，也可以在混料中加入一些磨碎的生姜。」接着她迅速地将辣椒扔入锅中，直到它们蘸覆着稍微滋滋作响的黄油后，将冷水倒在食材上，再撒上适量的盐，然后煨炖混料，直到辣椒软化且酱汁收干。最后，Nisha 关上了火，在蔬菜中加入十盎司奶酪丝，待其在余温中融化后，一道开胃酱汁就完成了。香喷喷的诱人料理搭配米饭基底，上桌前再加上几撮新鲜香菜。她解释说：「米饭和奶酪有助于和缓辣椒的辣度。」

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INGREDIENTS

辣酱

EZAY A RUBY-RED, GLOSSY PASTE called ezay is one of the few

Bhutanese dishes to be made entirely in a tshome , a traditional wooden utensil similar to a mortar and pestle, although it is also permissible to “cheat” by using a blender instead. This searing sauce is a blend of scorched dried chilies, tomato, onion, and garlic, seasoned with Sichuan pepper and salt and scented with fresh coriander. Potently addictive, it is used almost like an appetite enhancer. Its chili heat is so intense that diners are forced to take mouthfuls of plain rice to calm the flames, but as soon as the temperature subsides, the temptation returns. Virtually no one can resist another hit of its punchy, smoky taste. “We eat it with everything – rice, momo, all our dishes,” says Limbu, as she washes some dried chilies before scorching them over an open gas flame. “At home in the village, we’d just place the chilies directly onto burning charcoal, but you can also do it over a flame like this. They can actually be quite mild if you just use them dried. The idea is to blacken the skins to release their flavor.” After the chilies blister, pop, and sweat, Limbu skins them and begins removing the seeds to make the sauce less spicy for her non-Bhutanese guests. She cuts them up, places them in the tshome with chopped onion, ginger, and tomato, and pounds the mixture along with some salt until the paste is smooth and creamy. Then she sprinkles in a measure of Sichuan pepper and tastes, adding more salt if necessary. Finally, she heats a scant tablespoon of oil and adds it to the ezay to make the surface of the paste gleam like polished wood. “I like to put the coriander on last,” she says. “As it hits the oil, the scent just bursts out.”

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名为 ezay 的鲜亮红宝石色酱料是少数几样完全以 tshome（一种类似于研钵和捣杵的传统木制器具）制作的不丹料理之一，但也可以取巧地用搅拌器来制作。这款呛辣的酱料混合了干辣椒、番茄、洋葱和大蒜，用花椒和盐调味，并用新鲜香菜增加香气。Ezay 像是开胃剂般，一吃就令人欲罢不能。辣椒的辛辣强烈带劲，让客人不得不一口接一口地吃着米饭来消解辣味，但是当辣度缓和后，诱惑又再次袭来，几乎无人能抵挡它烟熏带劲的美味。

Nisha 一边洗着要放在开放式瓦斯火炉上炙烤的干辣椒，一边说：「我们会将 ezay 搭配各种食物一起吃，米饭、馍馍、任何料理。在村庄的家中，我们会直接把辣椒放在燃烧的木炭上，但也可以像这样在火上燃烧。如果只是用干辣椒，味道其实是很温和的。炙烤目的是将辣椒皮烤黑，让香气散发出来。」辣椒表皮烤到起泡、龟裂、出汁后，Nisha 将皮拨下并开始去籽，来减低酱料的辣度，为了非不丹当地的客人能尽情享用。将辣椒切碎后与碎洋葱、生姜和番茄一起放在 tshome 中，再将混合后的食材和少许的盐一起捣碎，直到酱料变得浓郁滑顺，接着撒上一点花椒粉并尝试味道，必要时再多加些盐。最后，她加热了几汤匙的油并淋在辣酱上，使酱料的表面看起来像打亮过的木「我喜欢最后才头一样光亮。Nisha 总结：放香菜，当它一碰到油，香气会瞬间迸发。」

DRIED RED CHILIES 干红辣椒

S I C H U A N P E P P E R 花椒

S A LT 盐

TO M ATO 番茄 ONION 洋葱 GINGER 姜

F R E S H CO R I A N D E R 新鲜香菜

G A R L I C 大蒜

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Mystic Kingdom 云中国度人间净土

With a deep reverence for nature and a remarkable generosity of spirit, the people of Bhutan nurture their ancient Himalayan realm. BY LUCY MORGAN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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“W

“WHEN I TURN THE PRAYER WHEEL,” says Ugyen Dhendup, “it’s

important that my thoughts are pure. I don’t ask for things for myself. The purpose of prayer is to alleviate the misery of all sentient beings, to bring good to all people.” Known to his friends as UD, Dhendup is an accomplished and highly knowledgeable tour guide. The prayer wheel he turns stands at one end of a covered bridge in Paro, Bhutan. Bridges are considered sacred in this last remaining Himalayan kingdom, a unique domain with a deeply traditional Buddhist culture. Holy relics are buried in the structure’s foundations, and its name, Nyamai Zam, hints at an ancient superstition: “It means ‘no-fish bridge,’” says Dhendup, “and people believe that if you see fish when crossing a bridge, terrible things will happen.” The noise of the prayer wheel is muffled by the din of the fast-flowing river Paro Chhu. Fed by glacial streams, its swollen waters during the rainy summer season are brown as they churn and foam. In drier months, the river appears purer, tinted with green and the reflected blue of clear skies. In July, however, the steel-colored heavens are softened by drifts of smoke-like clouds. Listening to the river’s roar and knowing that the ground is often rocked by seismic tremors, it seems fitting that Bhutan is known as Druk Yul, “the land of the thunder dragon.” Nature has been generous to this country: with the rivers’ ferocity generating hydroelectric power and the sun’s energy harnessed as well, Bhutan is practically carbon neutral. Paro lies alongside the powerful Paro Chhu at an altitude of twentytwo hundred meters. Despite the presence of an international airport, a number of luxury hotels, and even a brewery, the town conveys an overwhelming impression of a deep connection with nature. Land not cultivated or developed for housing remains forested. Cows, mules, and horses wander the few roads. Hedgerows burst with fruits: rosehips, Sichuan peppercorns, apples. The air is scented with mint and marijuana growing wild by the roadside. The mules and cows prefer to browse on grass, but the farmers, believing that it acts as an appetite stimulant and aids the fattening process, pick bunches of marijuana to feed to their pigs. Perhaps it is its remote and landlocked geography that has allowed the country to remain independent for the whole of its existence. Bordered by India and China’s Tibet Autonomous Region, Bhutan was closed to visitors for long years, generating great curiosity about this mysterious kingdom. The country began to open up around the mid-twentieth century and now attracts a great many overseas tourists eager to discover its secrets. The history of Bhutan combines mythology, magic, and spirituality revealed in colorful tales. One of the most spectacular sights in the

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「当转动转经轮时，思绪纯 Ugyen Dhendup ：净是很重要的。我不为自己祈求什么，祷告的目的是减轻所有生灵的苦痛，并将善意带给人们。」

Ugyen 是位极有成就且学识渊博的导游，朋友们都叫他 UD，他刚转动的转经轮坐落在不丹帕罗某座廊桥的一端。在这仅存的喜马拉雅国度中，人们认为桥墩是神圣的，是有着深度传统佛教文化的独特领域。神圣的遗迹被埋藏在这座桥的地基当中，而桥的名字 Nyamai Zam 其实暗喻着一个古老的迷信。Ugyen 说：「这个名字的意思是『无鱼桥』，人们相信如果在过桥时看到鱼，就会发生可怕的事。」转经轮发出的声音被帕洛曲河湍急的水声盖过。帕洛曲河的水源来自冰河，在夏天雨季时，高涨的褐色河水不停翻搅、起泡；干季时，河水则显得纯净许多，染上了绿意，并倒映出清澈天空的蔚蓝。但是到了七月，像烟雾似的云朵飘逸着，柔化了铁灰色的天空。轰隆作响的河水，加上此地常有的地震，。令不丹被称为 Druk Yul，意指「雷龙之地」

vicinity of Paro is the monastery known as Paro Taktsang or Tiger’s Nest. At an altitude of three thousand meters, its precarious position embracing a sheer cliff in proximity to the heavens appears to be the work of a divinity. And, in fact, the story behind its creation involves a holy man. Buddhism was introduced to Bhutan by an eighth-century Tibetan saint, Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche. He is said to have flown on the back of a tigress in order to subdue a demon. After he landed on top of a cliff – the location of the present monastery – Guru Rinpoche found a cave for shelter, where he lived and meditated. Centuries later, in 1692, a temple complex was constructed around the area of the cave. Fire destroyed the buildings in 1998, but the monastery has been sensitively restored to its former beauty. Pilgrims, hikers, and tourists make the steep three-hour climb to visit this most sacred site. Although the route is narrow and rocky, it is possible to ride horses to a halfway point, where the proprietors of a welcoming restaurant prepare warming dal over a stove fueled by wood from the surrounding forest. Tired guests are revived with steaming cups of strong tea. Prayer flags are strung across the path at regular intervals to trap the wind and flutter delicate applause for the walkers passing beneath. Toward the end of the path, a skein of cloud catches on the cliff under the

大自然给予这块土地丰厚的恩赐，汹涌的河流可用作水力发电，再加上太阳能，不丹几乎已经达到了碳中和。帕罗坐落在急流滚滚的帕洛曲河边，海拔 2200 米。虽然有着国际机场、数座豪华酒店、甚至酿酒厂，这座城市依旧强力展现出与大自然深刻的连结。未开发成农地或建地的区域，依旧维持本来的林地面貌。牛、驴子和马匹在为数不多的道路上漫步，由果树筑成的围篱上结满了玫瑰果、四川花椒和苹果。空气中弥漫着薄荷与大麻的气味，这两种植物在路边恣意生长。驴子和牛喜欢吃草，而农夫则摘下成捆的大麻喂食猪只，相信能够促进食欲并令牲口更加肥壮。或许因地理位置偏远且深处内陆，不丹从建国开始便一直维持独立。虽然紧邻印度与西藏自治区，但多年来从不开放旅游，因此激起世界对此神秘国度的强烈好奇心。最后不丹在二十世纪中开放，吸引大量外国旅客积极前来探索其秘密。不丹的历史是由神话、魔法与灵性共同 thunder dragon land

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temple buildings and, with the rock foundations concealed, the temple appears to be floating in the sky. A fe w h o u r sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; d r i v e f ro m P a ro i s Thimphu, the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busy capital, overlooked by the magnificent golden Buddha Dordenma statue completed in 2015 to mark the sixtieth anniversary of the fourth king. In a temple beneath the fifty-four-meter-tall figure are 125,000 smaller Buddhas made from gilded bronze. Farmers travel from surrounding villages to the city center to sell their produce in a sizable market arranged over two floors. In summer, local food is plentiful; in winter, some vegetables and fruits are imported from India. Fiddlehead ferns, tomatoes, okra, slender aubergines, and chilies of every shape and hue are arranged neatly in stone troughs. Feathery asparagus spears stand proud in a vat of water to keep them crisp. Brandy and whisky bottles enjoy a second life filled with wild honey harvested from the forests. Upstairs, the market feels less familiar to the foreign tourist. A pile of objects resembling animal bones turns out to be a stack of coiled, dried yak skin, to be soaked and boiled to make a gummy snack. Cubes of dried cheese are threaded on strings, a treat rather like candy, which needs to be sucked until the cheese softens enough to be chewed. Both treats evolved from the need to preserve food by drying, an ancient technique that the Bhutanese have retained. Another dried delicacy seems rather out of place in landlocked Bhutan: highly pungent dehydrated fish heaped on concrete tables. Behind them, the noisy river competes with the calls and shouts of vendors. The unspoiled countryside of Bhutan is home to many rare creatures, including the

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national animal, a native species of goatantelope. Its truly magical backstory involves one of the most fascinating characters in the nation’s lore, Lama Drukpa Kunley, a fifteenth-century Tibetan saint nicknamed The Divine Madman. A s legend goes, upon arriving in Bhutan, the teacher was challenged to perform a miracle to prove his religious worth. He agreed on condition that he was given a whole roasted goat and cow so he wouldn’t have to work on an empty stomach. After eating them both, the teacher attached the goat’s skull to the cow’s bones while repeating a mantra. This act brought to life a remarkable-looking creature, one the size of a small cow with a long caprine face and hefty horns. The Divine Madman named the beast dong gyem tsey or takin . The stunning Chimi Lhakhang monastery, close to the beautiful town of Punakha, celebrates the saint’s reputed powers of fertility. Couples desperate to be blessed with children make pilgrimage to the holy place to perform rituals. Its success rate is impressive: albums housed in the temple display letters and photos from visitors from around the world who are seen holding their longed-for newborns. As we reach the monastery on foot through rice fields, a small number of women are ankle-deep in water, planting bright green shoots with deft speed. Three men use wooden implements to shore up mud as flood prevention. Two oxen pull a plough to prepare the ground, and a small boy sits on a rock, watching the activity. “Rice is a valuable high-yield crop,” says Dhendup, our guide. “Just one acre of rice paddy can produce up to three hundred kilos, but the biggest enemy comes in the form of wild pigs and deer, who enjoy feasting on the young plants. “These people you see working together in the fields are not from the same family – they’re neighbors,” says Dhendup, after speaking to the group. “They take turns helping each other work their plots of land. They also look out for predators to make sure all the rice fields around the village will have a good crop. We Bhutanese are a very communal society.”

组成的色彩丰富的故事。塔克桑寺，又称虎穴寺，是帕罗近郊最壮观的景点之一。位于海拔三千米的高度，坐落在悬崖上的危险地形位置，加上与天堂如此接近，虎穴寺可谓是神之创作。事实上，此寺的落成与一位圣人有关。在西元八世纪时，一位西藏圣僧，后称莲花生大士 (Guru Padmasambhava，又称 Guru Rinpoche)，将佛教引进不丹。传说中，他为了降伏恶魔，骑在一头雌虎的背上飞行。当他降落在悬崖顶端时，找到一个洞穴作为庇护，他在该处住下并进行冥想；而这座悬崖顶端正是虎穴寺的所在位置。数百年后，当地人于 1692 年在该洞穴周围建起了寺庙。虽然寺庙在 1998 年被焚毁，但经过仔细重建后，已回复以往尊荣之景。朝圣者、健行客和观光客皆要攀爬三小时的陡峭山路，以探访此圣洁之地。虽然山路狭窄又布满石头，但可以骑马到半途点。在此，一间迎客餐厅的老板们备好了暖呼呼的扁豆糊，炉子里燃烧的木头来自四周的森林。疲倦的旅客饮用过冒着白烟的浓茶后，身心皆获复苏。 thunder dragon land

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沿着路径走，每一段固定距离就有经幡横跨头顶，这些经幡被风吹得劈啪作响，像在给底下走过的旅客献上纤弱的掌声。到了步道尽头，一抹云朵围住了寺庙底部的悬崖，恰好将岩石遮住，让整座寺庙看起来好像飘浮在空中。不丹的首都廷布距离帕罗约数小时的车程。一尊金煌雄伟的金刚座释迦牟尼佛像俯看着这座忙碌的城市，这座神像在 2015 年铸成，为祝贺第四任国王的 60 岁生辰。这座佛像高达 54 米，底下的寺庙内供有 12 万 5 千座较小的镀金青铜佛陀神像。城市周围的农夫会到市中心来，在一个规模相当大、规划良好的两层楼市场贩售他们的农作物。当地生产的食物在夏天相当充沛，到了冬天则需要从印度进口部分蔬菜与水果。蕨类的嫩芽、番茄、秋葵、细长茄子与各种形状和色泽的辣椒整齐地排列在石头打造的置物槽中。羽状的芦笋嫩茎骄傲地站在水桶之中，以保持新鲜脆度。白兰地和威士忌酒瓶被再度使用，装满了从森林采收的野生蜂蜜。二楼陈列的商品对异乡旅客来说就较为新奇了。一堆看起来像是动物骨头的东西，原来是盘绕起的干牦牛皮，经浸泡、煮沸后就能制成软黏的零食。正方体块状的干燥奶酪被串在绳子上，在吃之前要先充分吸吮、软化，就能当成像糖果那样的零食享用。以干燥法保存食物是不丹人流传下来的古老技术，而这两种零食都是从此演变而来。另一种干燥的零食在身处内陆的不丹显得有些突兀：混凝土桌上成堆的鱼干，气味相当刺鼻。在市场的后方，嘈杂的河流似乎在与小贩叫卖声一较高下。许多稀有生物居住在不丹未经开发的乡野，包括不丹国兽羚牛，其长相界于山羊与羚羊之间。它神奇的背景故事与喇嘛竹巴坤列 (Lama Drukpa Kunley) 有关，他是一位 15 世纪的西藏神僧，绰号为癫狂神僧 (The Divine

Madman)，是不丹国家历史传说中相当迷人有趣的角色。传说中，这位神僧抵达不丹时，被要求展现神迹来证明自身价值，他同意了，但条件是要给他一整只烤山羊和烤牛，这样他就不用饿着肚子来展现神迹。吃完供品之后，神僧一边念咒，一边将山羊的头骨接在牛的身体上，而这只外表异常神奇的动物竟然复活了，体型像小型的牛，但有着长长的山羊脸与沉重的角。癫狂神僧将这只动物取名为羚牛或塔金。令人叹为观止的切米拉康寺邻近美丽的普纳卡镇，咏赞着神僧远近驰名的助生能力。求子心切的人们来到此圣地朝圣参拜，而成功率则令人赞叹，寺庙中的相簿展示着来自世界各地的参拜者，怀抱他们期望以久的新生儿。当步行到寺庙时，我们经过稻田，一小群妇女站在深至脚踝的水中，灵巧快速地插下浅绿色秧苗。三个男人正在使用某种木制器具制作土推，以防止淹水。两只公牛拉着犁耕田，一个小男孩坐在石头上看着大家工作。导游「稻米是具有高经济价值的高产量作物，光是 Ugyen 说：一英亩的稻田就能产出高达三百公斤的稻米。但最大的天敌是野猪和鹿，他们很喜欢吃稻米的幼苗。」「你看到这些一起工 Ugyen 跟这些人聊了一会后说：作的人并不是家人，他们是邻居。他们轮流帮忙到彼此的稻田工作，也会注意掠食者，以确保整村的稻田都有好收成。我们不丹人总是互相帮助。」

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TRAVEL

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ARTISAN

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Layers of Tradition 传统「层」蕴

Age-old methods live on at a Bhutanese paper factory.

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ARTISAN

“PAPERMAKING IN BHUTAN dates back to the eighth century,” says

天然手工造纸厂位于不丹首都廷布，所有人

「不丹的造纸业可以追溯到 Norbu Tenzin 说： Norbu Tenzin, owner of the Jungshi (meaning “natural”) Handmade Paper 八世纪，但是当时的纸张非常昂贵，只有寺庙 Factory in the country’s capital city of Thimpu. “But at that time, paper 僧侣才会用纸来抄写经文。」 was very expensive and only used by monks in temples for writing 这座神秘的活古迹博物馆建在斜坡上， scriptures.” 俯瞰市镇中心，一排古朴的外建筑保护着用来 Built on a slope overlooking the town center, the intriguing living制作工坊精美手工不丹纸「deh-sho」的设备。 heritage museum is a series of rustic outbuildings that conceal the 主厂房中格外安静，当工人用纸筛从槽 artisanal equipment used in creating the workshop’s beautifully hand中捞起一层纸浆并将其放入干燥压纸机时，另 crafted product, known as deh-sho . 一个人小心翼翼地移动着潮湿的纤维纸张，将 The main factory room is eerily quiet as a worker glides a frame into 其放在加热的金属架上，那是工厂里唯一的 a basin filled with wood pulp and places it in a drying press. Another man 「机器」，而在发明电力之前，都 carefully eases the damp sheets of textured paper, positioning BY 是将纸筛放在阳光下晾干。 them on heated metal easels, the only “machines” in the facLUCY MORGAN 造纸的过程始于瑞香树的树 tory. Before the advent of electricity, the frames were put out • 皮，先混合灰末来软化树皮，然 in the sun to dry the paper. PHOTOGRAPHY BY 后浸入水中。一排衣着鲜艳的妇 The process begins with the bark of the daphne tree, DAVID HARTUNG 女处理着树皮，要在搅碎树皮前 which is first mixed with ash to soften it and then soaked in 除去所有粗糙的碎屑，接着放入 water. A line of brightly clad women sort through the bark, 打浆机中制成浆状，混合黏着剂后平铺于纸筛 removing any coarse pieces before it is shredded. Next, it goes into a 上成为最终成品。现场一家小画廊售有质地精 masher that turns it to pulp, which is mixed with glue and spread on 美的艺术家画纸和镶有花瓣和树叶的精美便条 frames to become the final product. A small on-site gallery sells sheets 卡。 of fine-textured artists’ drawing paper and elegant note cards embedded Norbu 的家人在 1992 年购买了这座纸厂， with petals and leaves.

Tenzin’s family bought the facility in 1992, worked to grow the business, and now sells its product around the world. “My parents learned to make paper of the highest quality,” he says. “We have different thicknesses and grades for many purposes. Nothing is wasted – the tougher bits of bark are used to make very thick paper which can be used for bags and packaging.” Every August, the factory has an important role to play when Bhutan’s lush grasslands burst into life with the country’s precious crop of matsutake mushrooms. Exported in large quantities and prized by the Japanese market, these delicate fungi are wrapped for shipping in Tenzin’s organic-looking paper to keep them fresh. Bhutan’s luxury hotel market has also found a number of innovative applications for the product, with its appealing texture and faint marbling. It is used for menus in restaurants and guest rooms and for hotel stationery. “We often use silk-screen printing or embossing when making menus for clients,” says Tenzin. “But the paper also works well with digital printers. So even with these modern methods, we can continue to preserve our culture.”

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对发展事业戮力以赴，如今产品已销往世界各地。他说：「我的父母学会如何制作最优质的纸张，为了各式需求，我们的纸张有不同的厚度和等级，不浪费一丝一毫，坚韧的树皮可以制造出非常厚的纸张，用于袋子和包装。」每年八月，当不丹茂密的草原与珍贵的松茸作物同生共荣时，纸厂的角色就变得举足轻重，因为松茸大量出口且深受日本市场青睐，而娇嫩的蕈菇在运输时就是包裹在由 Norbu 出产、看似有机的纸张中，以保持新鲜。不丹的奢华酒店市场也因着纸张的魅力质感和大理石浅纹，而发掘出许多创新的运用方式，像是餐厅与客房的菜单以及酒店的文具。「为客户制作菜单时，我们经常会 Norbu 说：使用丝网印刷或压纹，而这种纸张也可以用于数位列印机，所以即使现代科技再普及，我们的文化依然可以存续。」

Yoshihama Dried Abalone in Jian Nan Chun Chinese Liquor, Osetra Caviar, Preserved Plum Jelly 剑南春酒浸日本吉品干鲍伴鱼子酱及话梅果冻

PRESENTED BY CORDIS, HONG KONG

Nature Sauvage Menu 「天然颂赞」晚宴

天然颂赞

paired to perfection Lalique and Ming Court join forces to create a spectacular dining experience.

T H E R EC E N T LY LAU N C H E D year-long collaboration between Lalique, a legend of glassmaking style and skill, and Michelin-starred Ming Court, an exemplar of refined Cantonese cuisine, seems almost a matter of destiny. As Li Yuet Faat, the restaurant’s executive chef, so aptly puts it, “Lalique and Ming Court share a layering of experience, limitless innovation, and a strict demand that everything we do should reach perfection.” The four-season project, entitled Nature Sauvage, is definitely a partnership of kindred spirits: Lalique, through its meticulous craftsmanship, has won worldwide acclaim for interpretations of the infinite forms of the natural world in elegant designs of crystal. In the same way, Ming Court has achieved Michelin-star status for twelve consecutive years for the expert craftsmanship of its refined Cantonese menus that transform nature’s finest ingredients into culinary works of art. By redesigning the décor of one of Ming Court’s exclusive private dining rooms, Lalique has brought about a dazzling metamorphosis that features an array of furnishings, decorative elements, and tableware from among Lalique’s most beloved nature-themed collections. Befitting such a magnificent setting, Chef Li has created a sumptuous

法国水晶品牌 LALIQUE 与香港康得思酒店的米其林星级餐厅明阁联手推出为期一年的合作计画－ LALIQUE 的美学风格与精湛工艺可说是水晶界传奇，而明阁则是一流的高级粤菜食府。如同明阁的行政总厨李悦发所言：「明阁和 LALIQUE 的愿景一致，凭藉丰富经验、无限创新以及严格要求，一直追求完美。」这个名为「天然颂赞」的合作为期一年，是一场志趣相投的合作计画。LALIQUE 极致精湛的工艺举世闻名，以充满优雅美学姿态的水晶演绎大自然造物之奇，而明阁擅长以一流厨艺将大自然中最上乘的食材化为艺术等级的粤式美食飨宴，并连续十二年摘下米其林星级桂冠。 LALIQUE 重新改造明阁一间私人厢房，呈现一系列广受好评的大自然主题家具、饰品与餐具，让厢房呈现截然不同的崭新样貌。为了衬托如此华丽无比的装潢摆设，主厨李悦发特地设计出一套奢华的美馔菜单，共有十一道时令佳肴，呈现大自然一整年的盛大丰收。 LALIQUE 与明阁对于完美都有根深蒂固的坚 thunder dragon land

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Nature-themed room with Lalique’s collections at Ming Court 于明阁的私人厢房呈现一系列Lalique以大自然为题的饰品

eleven-course seasonal menu presenting the peak of nature’s bounty throughout the year. Both of the project’s partners have deep roots in the pursuit of perfection. Since 1888, founder René Lalique, renowned as the inventor of modern jewelry and a pioneer in the international perfume industry, went on to become a master in the art of glassmaking. Over time, the name Lalique has become the powerful symbol of a unique expertise, a synonym for luxury, excellence, creativity, and an immediately recognizable style. Today, Lalique has reinvented the imaginative world of its founder with contemporary work in six areas: jewelry, decorative items, interior design, perfumes, art, and hospitality. The company enters into exclusive collaborations of shared expertise with other luxury brands, artists, and designers, creating objects and collections of exceptional beauty. To this day, the company’s crystal pieces are produced in France at the unique factory in Alsace that René Lalique opened in 1921. Chef Li’s quest for excellence also traces a long history. In his early years, he says, he was envious of his uncle, a culinary professional: “I decided that when I grew up, I too would work in a restaurant.” Starting his career two decades ago in some of Hong Kong’s leading Cantonese kitchens,

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持。LALIQUE 创自 1888 年，品牌始创人荷内 • 莱俪 (René Lalique) 被誉为现代珠宝及香水业的始创者，其后更成为享负盛名的玻璃工艺大师。多年以来，LALIQUE 都是极致工艺的象征，代表着奢华、卓越、创意和独特的风格。时至今日，LALIQUE 将创办人的创作延续，分别演绎于六个领域：珠宝首饰、装饰摆设、室内装潢、香水、艺术品及酒店服务六大系列。 LALIQUE 也与其他奢华品牌、艺术家、设计师进行独家合作计画，打造唯美华丽的系列作品。自 1921 年起，所有 LALIQUE 产品均出产自法国的阿尔萨斯区 (Alsace) 的生产工房。行政总厨李悦发对于完美的追求可追溯至他的童年时代，他表示：「我以前总是羡慕叔叔能在顶级的餐厅里工作，于是决定长大后也要投身餐饮行业。」他在二十年前开始投入餐饮业，先在香港知名的粤菜餐厅厨房扎稳基本功，之后在明阁稳步晋升，于

PRESENTED BY CORDIS, HONG KONG

Chef Li Yuet Faat

Coconut Milk Pudding, Aloe Vera, Imperial Bird’s Nest, Chilled

行政总厨李悦发

椰汁芦荟官燕糕

Li worked his way up at Ming Court, where he took the helm in 2017. When asked for his culinary approach, Li is emphatic: “The essence of Cantonese cooking is freshness. I am very strict when it comes to ingredients. I am very keen to learn about the quality of the foods and where they come from.” A particular source of satisfaction for Li has been Ming Court’s collaboration with Lalique and his artistic freedom in developing the Menu Sauvage. “I love the elegance of the Lalique pieces in the design of the dining room,” he says. “Ming Court will be making changes every season to ensure that the best ingredients are used for this extraordinary menu.” Known for masterful pairings, the restaurant is featuring four remarkable wines to accompany Chef Li’s dishes. Three are Lalique wines, and all will be served in glasses from the Lalique & James Suckling 100 POINTS collection, designed in collaboration with the noted American wine authority. “I took my inspiration from nature,” says Li. “We are using her finest creations – abalone, caviar, sea cucumber, bird’s nest, and wagyu beef – all accompanied by stellar wines chosen by our sommelier and served to bring out the luminous beauty of Lalique crystal.”

2017 年成为这间米其林星级餐厅的掌舵人。被问及他的烹饪理念时，李悦发强调：「粤菜的精髓在于『新鲜』及『时令性』，我对食材十分讲究，会亲自了解食材的品质及来源。」李悦发对于明阁与 LALIQUE 的合作以及设计菜单时的创作自由格外感到心满意足，他说：「我喜欢厢房设计中 LALIQUE 作品的精致典雅。明阁的特色菜单每季均会推陈出新，以确保持续选用最佳的时令食材。」明阁以精湛高超的餐酒搭配享负盛名，特别以四款酒搭配李悦发总厨的精美菜单。其中三款是 LALIQUE 葡萄酒，用以盛装的杯器选自与美国知名酒评家 James Suckling 共同合作的「壹百分酒具系列」。李悦发表示：「我从大自然中汲取灵感，运用其美好创作，如：鲍鱼、鱼子酱、海参、燕窝及和牛等食材，并搭配侍酒师精心挑选的葡萄酒，上桌时同时展现 LALIQUE 水晶的摄人美态。」 thunder dragon land

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TASTING NEWS

善膳•续筵

SUMPTUOUSLY SUSTAINABLE Macau’s most dazzling dining event of the year celebrates the delicious possibilities of environmentally responsible cuisine.

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PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

← (From left to right): Tokuoka Kunio, Fabrice Vulin, Alain Ducasse, Kelvin Au Yeung, Pierre Hermé and Alex Atala

← Award-winning Japanese drum-and-dance ensemble DRUM TAO 大会邀请屡获殊荣的日本击鼓舞蹈团 DRUM TAO热情演出

→ Regional pop singer Kit Chan 香港歌坛天籁陈洁仪小姐

CIT Y OF DREAMS more than lived up to its name as Melco Resorts & Entertainment recently played host to the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2020 gala dinner. A galaxy of culinary stars offered a menu of stunningly creative dishes paired with a roster of remarkable wines. Entitled “Sustainability through Motion,” the black-tie affair marked the twelfth anniversary of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau. It brought together seven world-class chefs in an evening inspired by their wholehearted embrace of sustainable practices in the kitchen. The theme was presented as an urgent and ongoing modernization of fine-dining culture. From choosing ingredients and suppliers to ensuring fair-trade practices, today’s chefs bear responsibilities that go well beyond the traditional criteria of creativity, technique, and taste. Accordingly, dishes across the unique seven-course menu featured sustainably sourced ingredients, but the motif extended well beyond the food. Trays made from rice husks and repurposed wine bottles were used in serving pre-dinner canapés, and the striking table centerpieces

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新濠博亚娱乐早前于澳门新濠天地舉办米其林指南香港澳门 2020 晚宴，聚集厨艺界各方巨星，共同呈现无可比拟的创意佳肴和精心搭配的美酒。，是庆祝第这场星级盛宴名为「善膳 • 续筵」十二版《米其林指南香港澳门》诞生的盛会。在这星光熠熠的晚宴，七位世界顶尖名厨致力把可持续发展的精神，实践于厨房中的每个环节。本次主题呈现着刻不容缓、不断推进的高级餐饮文化革新。从以往对食材与供应商的挑选、对公平交易的维护演进至今，厨师的责任已远超过传统仅针对创意、厨艺及口味的要求。为此，晚宴菜单的七道美馔全都使用可持续发展的食材，除了挑选的食材切合环保主题外，食物托盘更以稻壳制成、餐前小点用空酒瓶盛装、餐桌中央亮丽美观的花艺摆设也会在晚宴后在其他地方重新栽种。

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TASTING NEWS

were fashioned from grasses and flowers that were subsequently replanted around the resort. During the event, the impressive backdrop morphed to LED walls that allowed the seven chefs to tell their own sustainability stories as they talked diners through their creations. The superstars from Melco’s own lineup of Michelin-starred restaurants were Kelvin Au Yeung of Jade Dragon (three stars), Fabrice Vulin of The Tasting Room (two stars), and Alain Ducasse of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus (two stars). They were joined by visiting culinary masters Tokuoka Kunio from Kyoto Kitcho Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan (three stars); Alex Atala from D.O.M. in São Paulo, Brazil (two stars); Lau Yiu Fai from Yan Toh Heen in Hong Kong (two stars); and legendary pâtissier Pierre Hermé from Pierre Hermé Lounge. In describing his dish, Chef Lau Yiu Fai remarked, “Whether it’s food, the environment or how I live my everyday life, being sustainable is about finding a balance between it all. It lets me ensure quality in everything I do, as well as a healthy life for my family and customers.”

宴会中令人印象深刻的布景板由大片的 LED 幕墙屏组成，七位星级大厨在为宾客介绍菜肴时，亦可传达他们各自为环保努力的故事。负责晚宴的星级大厨阵容强劲，分别是米其林三星粤菜食府「誉珑轩」的欧阳文彦、米其林二星法式餐厅「御膳房」的 Fabrice Vulin 以及米其林二星法式食府「杜卡斯餐厅」的 Alain Ducasse。此外，大会更力邀日本厨神徳冈邦夫 ( 日本京都米林其三星「吉兆」岚山本店 )、来自巴西的 Alex Atala ( 巴西圣保罗米其林二星「D.O.M.」) 以及来自香港的刘耀辉师傅 ( 香港米其林二星「欣图轩」)，以及来自「艾尔曼尚廊」的法国传奇甜点大师 Pierre Hermé 到场一展身手。刘耀辉师傅提到他的料理时说道：「不论食物、环境或生活方式，想坚持可持续发展，代表着需要在所有项目间求取平衡。如此一来做任何事都能维持高品质，也能令我的家人与宾客活得更健康。」 thunder dragon land

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WINE

为南非举杯

toasting south africa Top Hong Kong restaurants embrace the distinctive wines of a historic producer.

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Café Renaissance, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel

COURTESY OF RENAISSANCE HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL

香港万丽海景酒店万丽咖啡室

WITH A MODEST but growing share of the Hong

南非的葡萄酒历史悠久，且潜

Kong market, South African wines boast a long heritage and a big heart. As the oldest of the New World producers, the country in 2019 celebrated 360 years of winemaking history. A collection of Hong Kong’s leading restaurants joined the festivities by running an array of South African wine promotional events this past April. At Renaissance Harbour View Hong Kong Hotel, Cantonese restaurant Dynasty offered South African abalone and other delicacies, and Café Renaissance served authentic grilled South African specialties, all paired with selected South African wines. The innovative modern French dishes created by Le Bistro Winebeast were admirably complemented by wines from among South Africa’s foremost producers. Chilli Fagara, famed for fiery Sichuan food, boldly recommended matching its signature crispfried chicken pieces with South Africa’s signature chenin blanc. And Hoi King Heen at Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong designed a special menu that paired South African wines with its exquisite Cantonese dishes, including braised South African abalone and chicken. The events were initiated by Wines of South Africa (WOSA), the marketing body committed to bringing the country’s most exciting wines to the attention of sommeliers and wine lovers around the world. Among its recommendations to adventurous oenophiles are Cap Classique, the South African version of Champagne that can hold its own against the best of its French counterpart; chameleon-like chenin blanc that can be made into fresh and fruity sparkling whites, serious wines for aging, and delicious sweet wines; and pinotage, a unique variety developed in South Africa in the 1970s that delivers the best of its parents – freshness from pinot noir and structure from cinsault (formerly known in South Africa as hermitage). With South Africa’s National Day approaching on April 27, WOSA plans to mark the occasion

力无穷，在香港的葡萄酒市场

throughout the month with another round of Hong Kong restaurant events celebrating the wines of South Africa.

虽非主力，但市场占有率正逐年提升。南非是新世界葡萄酒界最古老的生产国，于 2018 年欢庆酿酒历史届满 360 年，香港一系列顶级餐厅也在四月推行以南非葡萄酒佐餐的活动，一同庆贺。香港万丽海景酒店的粤菜餐厅「满福楼」推出南非鲍鱼等珍馔，「万丽咖啡室」则献上南非烧烤特餐，皆佐以特选南非葡萄酒。「 Le Bistro Winebeast 」别具一格的当代法式料理，与南非顶尖酒厂出产的美酒亦相得益彰。以浓郁四川料理闻名的「麻辣烫」则给予别出心裁的推荐：以南非的特色白诗南葡萄酒搭配该餐厅的招牌菜脆炸鸡丁。香港海景嘉福洲际酒店的「海景轩」推出特色菜单，将慢炖南非鲍鱼与嫩鸡等精致粤式料理佐以南非葡萄酒。此系列活动由南非葡萄酒协会 (WOSA) 发起，该协会致力向世界各地的侍酒师及爱酒人士推广南非的顶级葡萄酒，为乐于尝鲜的行家推荐南非版香槟 Cap Classique，其风味可不逊于法国的香槟。另外白诗南则变化多端，能酿成轻盈的果香气泡酒，也能酿出深沉浓厚的陈年酒及滋味曼妙的甜酒。皮诺塔吉则是 1970 年代源于南非的特有混种，兼具黑皮诺的清新与神索的柔和

( 神索过去在南非亦被称作埃米塔日 )。

4 月 27 日南非国庆日快将到来，WOSA 计画借此持续与香港的餐厅合作，一同以南非葡萄酒欢庆佳节。

Find out more at wosa.hk. 更多讯息请浏览 wosa.hk thunder dragon land

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary

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Neyphu Valley, Shaba, Paro, Kingdom of Bhutan q +975 8 272 224

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DESSERT

Dried yak cheese is a Bhutanese snack popular with both children and adults. Made by compressing and drying buttermilk to form a solid mass, it is cut into cubes and threaded onto strings. The hard cheese needs to be softened in the mouth before it can be chewed, giving it the satisfying quality of a boiled sweet and chewing gum hybrid with a lingering savory taste.

DAVID HARTUNG

干牦牛奶酪是广受欢迎的不丹小吃，酪乳经压缩及干燥后制成固体，切成块状并串在绳子上。咀嚼这种硬奶酪之前要先在口中软化，会有像混合煮沸的糖果和口香糖似的持久风味。

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