taste. blas magazine: Issue 4, Autumn 2019

Page 26

The Whitebrook

Green & Jenks

Destination There are places in Wales you simply have to visit to consider yourself a Welsh ‘bolgi’ or gourmand. Keep these foodie travel guides to hand, as these epicurean epicentres are surrounded by local gastro treasures. Book a weekend away and make ‘bwyd a diod’ the highlight of your stay; let Lowri Haf Cooke guide you on the second of our taste.blas Welsh food pilgrimages...

Welsh Food Mecca: The Whitebrook, Monmouthshire One of the loveliest food escapes in all of Wales is definitely best experienced during autumn. As the nights start drawing in, you’ll feel a hankering for comfort, yet also yearn to experience the season in 3D. What you’ll find, to your delight, is that The Whitebrook ticks all boxes – including ones you hadn’t even considered. Long regarded as one of Wales’ premier dining spots, it secured the nation’s first ever Michelin star in 1976, under Chef Sonia Blech and husband Neville. Since 2012 it’s staged the marvels of food magician Chris Harrod, who conjures up a feast of Wye Valley flavours. Upon your arrival at the restaurant-with-rooms, settle in with a home-made Welsh cake, still warm from the oven. Then get your walking boots on, hop over the Gwenffrwd (Whitebrook) stepping stones, and kick a rainbow of leaves at Margaret’s Wood before supper. Following the chef ’s roaring success on last year’s Great British Menu, there are a few ‘signature’ dishes to savour. The Huntsham Farm Suckling Pig, (titled ‘Everything but the Squeal’ on TV), is definitely a Whitebrook no-brainer. Or, make things easy for yourself and go for the stellar tasting menu, where all glorious bases are covered.

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The menu takes great care to highlight award-winning Welsh producers, including Ancre Hill wines and Trealy Farm charcuterie. Place your trust in the chef, as he celebrates hand-picked seasonal ingredients, in collaboration with local forager Henry Ashby. Herbs such as hogweed and mugwort may sound like they’ve escaped from the Mabinogion, but just like wizard Gwydion, Chef Chris Harrod is a master of magic potions! So do yourself a favour; make a date with destiny, and enjoy the multi-sensory wonders of The Whitebrook. The Whitebrook; Whitebrook, Monmouthshire NP25 4TX; tel: 01600 860254

While you’re in the area... Ice Cream: Green & Jenks: (14 mins: 5.4 miles, North-West) Following a leisurely stay at the Whitebrook, make your way over to Monmouth, and enjoy the delights of this historical Welsh market town. Enjoy the vibrant selection of independent shops, from Neil Powell’s butchers to Salt and Pepper for kitchen ceramics. Then head up Monnow Street towards Agincourt Square for a treat at Green & Jenks. The sixth-generation family business dates back to 1888, when Frederick


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